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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes index 6833f05..d7b82bc 100644 --- a/.gitattributes +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -1,3 +1,4 @@ -* text=auto -*.txt text -*.md text +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/14293-0.txt b/14293-0.txt index 97c62be..e9b61e6 100644 --- a/14293-0.txt +++ b/14293-0.txt @@ -1893,7 +1893,7 @@ But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" + and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_.'" The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." @@ -2069,7 +2069,7 @@ and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast + tin, and about the size of a piece of toast. It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in @@ -3067,7 +3067,7 @@ them have the receipt, which I promised them...." This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit +of genuine mocha ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in @@ -4145,7 +4145,7 @@ A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. + of 2 parts egg yolk to 1 part egg white. With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored fillings: @@ -5922,17 +5922,17 @@ do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily dispense with the mere dinner itself. -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. +Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened with +imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of its +wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; +deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; tangy +Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the cheeses, tied in pairs and +hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a saddle--cheese +on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in Lazy Lou's first +assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving Florentine magnum-holder. +It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of Chianti. The flick of a +finger and the bottle is before you. Gently pull it down and hold your +glass to the spout. True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are @@ -5949,7 +5949,7 @@ marigolds; another a tube of South American Kräuterkäse. Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you +England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if you like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of @@ -7789,7 +7789,7 @@ _U.S.A._ milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement +From an advertisement. Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. @@ -11398,12 +11398,13 @@ Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. Piora _Tessin, Switzerland_ -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. +Hard cheese with small eyes. Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of +goat's and cow's. Pippen _U.S.A._ -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll +Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll. Pithiviers au Foin _France_ @@ -11665,7 +11666,7 @@ _Venezuela_ Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra +Queso del Pais, Queso de la Tierra _Puerto Rico_ White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, @@ -11782,7 +11783,7 @@ two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. Récollet de Gérardmer _Vosges, France_ -A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April +A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April. Red _Russia_ @@ -11937,7 +11938,7 @@ scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. Romano, Romano Vacchino _Italy_ -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. +Strong flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. Romanello _U.S.A._ @@ -12343,7 +12344,7 @@ _Germany_ Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ +_Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six pounds. @@ -12384,7 +12385,7 @@ smearcase in America. Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. -Schönland +Schoenland _German_ Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." diff --git a/14293-h/14293-h.htm b/14293-h/14293-h.htm index 70fb5f8..0715530 100644 --- a/14293-h/14293-h.htm +++ b/14293-h/14293-h.htm @@ -1,14 +1,10 @@ -<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<!DOCTYPE html> -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<html lang="en"> <head> - <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Complete Book of - Cheese, by Bob Brown.</title> - <style type="text/css"> - /*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ - <!-- + <meta charset="utf-8"> + <title>The Complete Book of Cheese | Project Gutenberg</title> + <style> p { margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em; @@ -82,116 +78,111 @@ .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em;} .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} .poem span.auth {display: block; margin-left: 10em;} - // --> - /* XML end ]]>*/ +.h2, .h3, .h4, .h5 { + text-align: center; + display: block; + margin-left: 0; + margin-right: 0; + font-weight: bold; +} +.h3 { + font-size: 1.17em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; +} </style> </head> <body> <div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14293 ***</div> - <h2><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" - id="Page_1"></a> <!-- Contents moved to page 3 --> - <!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" - id="Page_2"></a> BOB BROWN</h2> + <h2><!-- Page 1 --><a id="Page_1"></a> <!-- Contents moved to page 3 --> + <!-- Page 2 --><a id="Page_2"></a> BOB BROWN</h2> - <h1>The Complete Book<br /> + <h1>The Complete Book<br > of Cheese</h1> <p><i>Illustrations by</i> Eric Blegvad</p> <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/002.gif" - width="450" - height="314" - alt="Illustration: cheese store" /> + <img src="images/002.gif" alt="Illustration: cheese store" style="width: 450px; height: 314px"> </div> <p> </p> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Gramercy Publishing Company</i><br /> - <br /> - <i>New York</i><br /> + <i>Gramercy Publishing Company</i><br > + <br > + <i>New York</i><br > 1955 </div> - <p><!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" - id="Page_3"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 3 --><a id="Page_3"></a> </p> <p> </p> - <p><i>Author of</i><br /> - <br /> - THE WINE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - AMERICA COOKS<br /> - <br /> - 10,000 SNACKS<br /> - <br /> - SALADS AND HERBS<br /> - <br /> - THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES<br /> - <br /> - THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK!<br /> - <br /> - THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ<br /> - <br /> - MOST FOR YOUR MONEY<br /> - <br /> - OUTDOOR COOKING<br /> - <br /> - FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> + <p><i>Author of</i><br > + <br > + THE WINE COOK BOOK<br > + <br > + AMERICA COOKS<br > + <br > + 10,000 SNACKS<br > + <br > + SALADS AND HERBS<br > + <br > + THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK<br > + <br > + SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES<br > + <br > + THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK<br > + <br > + LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK!<br > + <br > + THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK<br > + <br > + THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ<br > + <br > + MOST FOR YOUR MONEY<br > + <br > + OUTDOOR COOKING<br > + <br > + FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK<br > + <br > THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK</p> <p><i>Co-author of Food and Drink Books by</i> The Browns</p> - <p>LET THERE BE BEER!<br /> - <br /> + <p>LET THERE BE BEER!<br > + <br > HOMEMADE HILARITY</p> - <p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" - id="Page_4"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <p><!-- Page 4 --><a id="Page_4"></a> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > <p> </p> <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/004.gif" - width="225" - height="104" - alt="Illustration:TO" /> + <img src="images/004.gif" alt="Illustration:TO" style="width: 225px; height: 104px"> </div> - <h3>PHIL</h3> + <div class="h3">PHIL</div> - <h3>ALPERT</h3> + <div class="h3">ALPERT</div> - <h3><i>Turophile Extraordinary</i></h3> + <div class="h3"><i>Turophile Extraordinary</i></div> - <p><!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" - id="Page_5"></a> </p><!-- Blank page --> + <p><!-- Page 5 --><a id="Page_5"></a> </p><!-- Blank page --> - <p><!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" - id="Page_6"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <p><!-- Page 6 --><a id="Page_6"></a> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > <p> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/006.gif" - width="250" - height="282" - alt="Contents" /> + <img src="images/006.gif" alt="Contents" style="width: 250px; height: 282px"> </div> <div class="toc"> @@ -263,22 +254,17 @@ <p><b><a href="#Page_320">ABOUT THE AUTHOR</a></b></p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" - id="Page_7"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <p><!-- Page 7 --><a id="Page_7"></a> </p> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" - id="Page_8"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 8 --><a id="Page_8"></a> </p> <div> - <img src="images/008.gif" - width="450" - height="326" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/008.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 326px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > One</i> </div> @@ -301,8 +287,7 @@ out generous plugs from the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at Antietam.</p> - <p><!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" - id="Page_9"></a> I remember another market day, this time in + <p><!-- Page 9 --><a id="Page_9"></a> I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I stocked up on good Schweizerkäse and better Gruyère. For lunch I had cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound @@ -343,8 +328,7 @@ <p>This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I have during the past year or two been sharpening - my <!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" - id="Page_10"></a>cheese perception with whatever varieties I + my <!-- Page 10 --><a id="Page_10"></a>cheese perception with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is @@ -353,22 +337,18 @@ give it a try.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > <p> </p> - <p><!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" - id="Page_11"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 11 --><a id="Page_11"></a> </p> <div> - <img src="images/011.gif" - width="450" - height="315" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/011.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 315px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Two</i> </div> @@ -391,8 +371,7 @@ John Squire. The first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its heft almost tied the 147-pound - Green <!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" - id="Page_12"></a>County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss presented + Green <!-- Page 12 --><a id="Page_12"></a>County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under @@ -436,34 +415,33 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" - id="Page_13"></a> <span>We have thee, mammoth - cheese,<br /></span> <span>Lying quietly at your - ease;<br /></span> <span>Gently fanned by evening - breeze,<br /></span> <span>Thy fair form no flies - dare seize.<br /></span> + <!-- Page 13 --><a id="Page_13"></a> <span>We have thee, mammoth + cheese,<br ></span> <span>Lying quietly at your + ease;<br ></span> <span>Gently fanned by evening + breeze,<br ></span> <span>Thy fair form no flies + dare seize.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>All gaily dressed soon you'll go<br /></span> - <span>To the greatest provincial show,<br /></span> - <span>To be admired by many a beau<br /></span> - <span>In the city of Toronto.<br /></span> + <span>All gaily dressed soon you'll go<br ></span> + <span>To the greatest provincial show,<br ></span> + <span>To be admired by many a beau<br ></span> + <span>In the city of Toronto.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>May you not receive a scar as<br /></span> - <span>We have heard that Mr. Harris<br /></span> - <span>Intends to send you off as far as<br /></span> - <span>The great world's show at Paris.<br /></span> + <span>May you not receive a scar as<br ></span> + <span>We have heard that Mr. Harris<br ></span> + <span>Intends to send you off as far as<br ></span> + <span>The great world's show at Paris.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Of the youth beware of these,<br /></span> + <span>Of the youth beware of these,<br ></span> <span>For some of them might rudely - squeeze<br /></span> <span>And bite your cheek; then - song or glees<br /></span> <span>We could not sing, oh, - Queen of Cheese.<br /></span> + squeeze<br ></span> <span>And bite your cheek; then + song or glees<br ></span> <span>We could not sing, oh, + Queen of Cheese.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -490,103 +468,101 @@ </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>From meadows rich, with clover red,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A thousand heifers come;<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" - id="Page_14"></a> The tinkling bells the tidings - spread,<br /></span> <span>The milkmaid muffles up - her head,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And wakes - the village hum.<br /></span> + <span>From meadows rich, with clover red,<br ></span> + <span class="i2">A thousand heifers come;<br ></span> + <span><!-- Page 14 --><a id="Page_14"></a> The tinkling bells the tidings + spread,<br ></span> <span>The milkmaid muffles up + her head,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And wakes + the village hum.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>In shining pans the snowy flood<br /></span> + <span>In shining pans the snowy flood<br ></span> <span class="i2">Through whitened canvas - pours;<br /></span> <span>The dyeing pots of otter - good<br /></span> <span>And rennet tinged with madder - blood<br /></span> <span class="i2">Are sought among - their stores.<br /></span> + pours;<br ></span> <span>The dyeing pots of otter + good<br ></span> <span>And rennet tinged with madder + blood<br ></span> <span class="i2">Are sought among + their stores.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> <span>The quivering curd, in panniers - stowed,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Is loaded on the - jade,<br /></span> <span>The stumbling beast supports - the load,<br /></span> <span>While trickling whey - bedews the road<br /></span> <span class="i2">Along the - dusty glade.<br /></span> + stowed,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Is loaded on the + jade,<br ></span> <span>The stumbling beast supports + the load,<br ></span> <span>While trickling whey + bedews the road<br ></span> <span class="i2">Along the + dusty glade.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">The arid deserts roam,<br /></span> + <span>As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred,<br ></span> + <span class="i2">The arid deserts roam,<br ></span> <span>Through trackless sands undaunted - tread,<br /></span> <span>With skins of water on their - head<br /></span> <span class="i2">To cheer their - masters home,<br /></span> + tread,<br ></span> <span>With skins of water on their + head<br ></span> <span class="i2">To cheer their + masters home,<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>So here full many a sturdy swain<br /></span> + <span>So here full many a sturdy swain<br ></span> <span class="i2">His precious baggage - bore;<br /></span> <span>Old misers e'en forgot their - gain,<br /></span> <span>And bed-rid cripples, free - from pain,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Now took the - road before.<br /></span> + bore;<br ></span> <span>Old misers e'en forgot their + gain,<br ></span> <span>And bed-rid cripples, free + from pain,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Now took the + road before.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>The widow, with her dripping mite<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon her saddle horn,<br /></span> - <span>Rode up in haste to see the sight<br /></span> - <span>And aid a charity so right,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A pauper so forlorn.<br /></span> + <span>The widow, with her dripping mite<br ></span> + <span class="i2">Upon her saddle horn,<br ></span> + <span>Rode up in haste to see the sight<br ></span> + <span>And aid a charity so right,<br ></span> + <span class="i2">A pauper so forlorn.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>The circling throng an opening drew<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon the verdant-grass<br /></span> - <span>To let the vast procession through<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" - id="Page_15"></a>To spread their rich repast in - view,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And Elder J. L. - pass.<br /></span> + <span>The circling throng an opening drew<br ></span> + <span class="i2">Upon the verdant-grass<br ></span> + <span>To let the vast procession through<br ></span> + <span><!-- Page 15 --><a id="Page_15"></a>To spread their rich repast in + view,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And Elder J. L. + pass.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then Elder J. with lifted eyes<br /></span> - <span class="i2">In musing posture stood,<br /></span> - <span>Invoked a blessing from the skies<br /></span> + <span>Then Elder J. with lifted eyes<br ></span> + <span class="i2">In musing posture stood,<br ></span> + <span>Invoked a blessing from the skies<br ></span> <span>To save from vermin, mites and - flies,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And keep the - bounty good.<br /></span> + flies,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And keep the + bounty good.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Now mellow strokes the yielding pile<br /></span> + <span>Now mellow strokes the yielding pile<br ></span> <span class="i2">From polished steel - receives,<br /></span> <span>And shining nymphs stand - still a while,<br /></span> <span>Or mix the mass with - salt and oil,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With sage - and savory leaves.<br /></span> + receives,<br ></span> <span>And shining nymphs stand + still a while,<br ></span> <span>Or mix the mass with + salt and oil,<br ></span> <span class="i2">With sage + and savory leaves.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then sextonlike, the patriot troop,<br /></span> + <span>Then sextonlike, the patriot troop,<br ></span> <span class="i2">With naked arms and - crown,<br /></span> <span>Embraced, with hardy hands, - the scoop,<br /></span> <span>And filled the vast - expanded hoop,<br /></span> <span class="i2">While - beetles smacked it down.<br /></span> + crown,<br ></span> <span>Embraced, with hardy hands, + the scoop,<br ></span> <span>And filled the vast + expanded hoop,<br ></span> <span class="i2">While + beetles smacked it down.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> <span>Next girding screws the ponderous - beam,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With heft immense, - drew down;<br /></span> <span>The gushing whey from - every seam<br /></span> <span>Flowed through the - streets a rapid stream,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">And shad came up to town.<br /></span> + beam,<br ></span> <span class="i2">With heft immense, + drew down;<br ></span> <span>The gushing whey from + every seam<br ></span> <span>Flowed through the + streets a rapid stream,<br ></span> + <span class="i2">And shad came up to town.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -602,8 +578,7 @@ <p>This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar - mammoth <!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" - id="Page_16"></a>cheese in token of the high esteem in which + mammoth <!-- Page 16 --><a id="Page_16"></a>cheese in token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the hall @@ -612,22 +587,18 @@ eaten their fill.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" - id="Page_17"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 17 --><a id="Page_17"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/017.gif" - width="450" - height="268" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/017.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 268px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Three</i> </div> @@ -635,43 +606,42 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ode to Cheese</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Ode to Cheese</i><br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"></div> <div class="stanza"> <span>God of the country, bless today Thy - cheese,<br /></span> <span>For which we give Thee - thanks on bended knees.<br /></span> <span>Let them be - fat or light, with onions blent,<br /></span> + cheese,<br ></span> <span>For which we give Thee + thanks on bended knees.<br ></span> <span>Let them be + fat or light, with onions blent,<br ></span> <span>Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether - scent<br /></span> <span>Of sheep or fields is in them, - in the yard<br /></span> <span>Let them, good Lord, at - dawn be beaten hard.<br /></span> <span>And let their - edges take on silvery shades<br /></span> <span>Under - the moist red hands of dairymaids;<br /></span> + scent<br ></span> <span>Of sheep or fields is in them, + in the yard<br ></span> <span>Let them, good Lord, at + dawn be beaten hard.<br ></span> <span>And let their + edges take on silvery shades<br ></span> <span>Under + the moist red hands of dairymaids;<br ></span> <span>And, round and greenish, let them go to - town<br /></span> <span>Weighing the shepherd's folding - mantle down;<br /></span> <span>Whether from Parma or - from Jura heights,<br /></span> <span>Kneaded by august - hands of Carmelites,<br /></span> <span>Stamped with - the mitre of a proud abbess.<br /></span> + town<br ></span> <span>Weighing the shepherd's folding + mantle down;<br ></span> <span>Whether from Parma or + from Jura heights,<br ></span> <span>Kneaded by august + hands of Carmelites,<br ></span> <span>Stamped with + the mitre of a proud abbess.<br ></span> <span>Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of - Bresse,<br /></span> <span>From hollow Holland, from - the Vosges, from Brie,<br /></span> <span>From - Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!<br /></span> <span> - <!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" - id="Page_18"></a> Bless them, good Lord! Bless - Stilton's royal fare,<br /></span> <span>Red + Bresse,<br ></span> <span>From hollow Holland, from + the Vosges, from Brie,<br ></span> <span>From + Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!<br ></span> <span> + <!-- Page 18 --><a id="Page_18"></a> Bless them, good Lord! Bless + Stilton's royal fare,<br ></span> <span>Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream - Gruyère.<br /></span> + Gruyère.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> <span class="auth">FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S - TRANSLATION<br /></span> <span class="auth">OF A POEM - BY M. Thomas Braun<br /></span> + TRANSLATION<br ></span> <span class="auth">OF A POEM + BY M. Thomas Braun<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -704,60 +674,58 @@ given:</p> <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese varieties" - cellpadding="6"> + <table style="padding: 6px;"> <tr> - <td align="left">Brick</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Brick</td> - <td align="left">Gouda</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Gouda</td> - <td align="left">Romano</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Romano</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">Camembert</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Camembert</td> - <td align="left">Hand</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Hand</td> - <td align="left">Roquefort</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Roquefort</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">Cheddar</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Cheddar</td> - <td align="left">Limburger</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Limburger</td> - <td align="left">Sapsago</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Sapsago</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">Cottage</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Cottage</td> - <td align="left">Neufchâtel</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Neufchâtel</td> - <td align="left">Swiss</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Swiss</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">Cream</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Cream</td> - <td align="left">Parmesan</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Parmesan</td> - <td align="left">Trappist</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Trappist</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">Edam</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Edam</td> - <td align="left">Provolone</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Provolone</td> - <td align="left">Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta)</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta)</td> </tr> </table> </div> - <p><!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" - id="Page_19"></a> May we nominate another dozen to form our + <p><!-- Page 19 --><a id="Page_19"></a> May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that includes @@ -799,8 +767,7 @@ <p>Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early - days, and still <!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" - id="Page_20"></a>is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest + days, and still <!-- Page 20 --><a id="Page_20"></a>is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the favorite of Thomas Hardy.</p> @@ -836,80 +803,78 @@ follows:</p> <div class="center"> - <table summary="list of imitations of Caciocavallo cheese" - cellpadding="2"> + <table style="padding: 2px;"> <tr> - <td align="left">BULGARIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">BULGARIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kascaval</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">GREECE:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">GREECE:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Kashcavallo</b> and <b>Caskcaval</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kashcavallo</b> and <b>Caskcaval</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">HUNGARY:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">HUNGARY:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Parenica</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Parenica</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">RUMANIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">RUMANIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Pentele</b> and <b>Kascaval</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Pentele</b> and <b>Kascaval</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">SERBIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SERBIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Katschkawalj</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Katschkawalj</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">SYRIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SYRIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Cashkavallo</b> - <!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" - id="Page_21"></a></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Cashkavallo</b> + <!-- Page 21 --><a id="Page_21"></a></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">TRANSYLVANIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">TRANSYLVANIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b> (as in Rumania)</td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kascaval</b> (as in Rumania)</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">TURKEY:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">TURKEY:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Cascaval Penir</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Cascaval Penir</b></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">YUGOSLAVIA:</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">YUGOSLAVIA:</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>Kackavalj</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>Kackavalj</b></td> </tr> </table> </div> @@ -954,8 +919,7 @@ Cacio which would survive anything, the monster said.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" - id="Page_22"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 22 --><a id="Page_22"></a> </p> <p><b>Camembert</b></p> @@ -1003,8 +967,7 @@ <p>Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse - Cheddar, <!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" - id="Page_23"></a>but in America we have practically none of + Cheddar, <!-- Page 23 --><a id="Page_23"></a>but in America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote that it @@ -1029,25 +992,25 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>A Cheshireman sailed into Spain<br /></span> - <span>To trade for merchandise;<br /></span> <span>When - he arrived from the main<br /></span> <span>A Spaniard - him espies.<br /></span> <span>Who said, "You English - rogue, look here!<br /></span> <span>What fruits and - spices fine<br /></span> <span>Our land produces twice - a year.<br /></span> <span>Thou has not such in - thine."<br /></span> + <span>A Cheshireman sailed into Spain<br ></span> + <span>To trade for merchandise;<br ></span> <span>When + he arrived from the main<br ></span> <span>A Spaniard + him espies.<br ></span> <span>Who said, "You English + rogue, look here!<br ></span> <span>What fruits and + spices fine<br ></span> <span>Our land produces twice + a year.<br ></span> <span>Thou has not such in + thine."<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Cheshireman ran to his hold<br /></span> - <span>And fetched a Cheshire cheese,<br /></span> + <span>The Cheshireman ran to his hold<br ></span> + <span>And fetched a Cheshire cheese,<br ></span> <span>And said, "Look here, you dog, - behold!<br /></span> <span>We have such fruits as - these.<br /></span> <span>Your fruits are ripe but - twice a year,<br /></span> <span>As you yourself do - say,<br /></span> <span>But such as I present you - here<br /></span> <span>Our land brings twice a + behold!<br ></span> <span>We have such fruits as + these.<br ></span> <span>Your fruits are ripe but + twice a year,<br ></span> <span>As you yourself do + say,<br ></span> <span>But such as I present you + here<br ></span> <span>Our land brings twice a day."</span> </div> @@ -1059,8 +1022,7 @@ <p> </p> <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" - id="Page_24"></a> + <!-- Page 24 --><a id="Page_24"></a> <p>Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the @@ -1073,7 +1035,7 @@ the principle on which Colonel Brisson made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian vineyard.</p> - <p class="author">T. Earle Welby,<br /> + <p class="author">T. Earle Welby,<br > IN "THE DINNER KNELL"</p> </div> @@ -1101,19 +1063,18 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Dans le Chester sec et rose</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Dans le Chester sec et rose</i><br ></span> <span><i>A longues dents, l'Anglais - mord.</i><br /></span> + mord.</i><br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the Chester dry and pink<br /></span> - <span>The long teeth of the English sink.<br /></span> + <span>In the Chester dry and pink<br ></span> + <span>The long teeth of the English sink.<br ></span> </div> </div> - <p><!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" - id="Page_25"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 25 --><a id="Page_25"></a> </p> <p><b>Edam and Gouda</b></p> @@ -1163,21 +1124,20 @@ <p>"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides.</p> - <p><!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" - id="Page_26"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 26 --><a id="Page_26"></a> </p> <p><b>Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss</b></p> <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>When the working woman<br /></span> <span>Takes - her midday lunch,<br /></span> <span>It is a piece of - Gruyère<br /></span> <span>Which for her takes - the place of roast.<br /></span> + <span>When the working woman<br ></span> <span>Takes + her midday lunch,<br ></span> <span>It is a piece of + Gruyère<br ></span> <span>Which for her takes + the place of roast.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> + <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -1213,8 +1173,7 @@ Finland, we get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with all possible faults—from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly cheese, to too few—cracked, - dried-up, collapsed <!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" - id="Page_27"></a>or utterly ruined by molding inside. So it + dried-up, collapsed <!-- Page 27 --><a id="Page_27"></a>or utterly ruined by molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever.</p> @@ -1255,8 +1214,7 @@ consent monarch of all other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the highest praise any cheese can get - there. <!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" - id="Page_28"></a>Like all great cheeses it has been widely + there. <!-- Page 28 --><a id="Page_28"></a>Like all great cheeses it has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich green veins running through. Very pungent and highly @@ -1299,8 +1257,7 @@ <p>And so say we—all of us.</p> - <p><!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" - id="Page_29"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 29 --><a id="Page_29"></a> </p> <p><b>Hand Cheese</b></p> @@ -1345,8 +1302,7 @@ <p>Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan that was accustomed to park in the little - town <!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" - id="Page_30"></a>of Monroe where it was marketed. They + town <!-- Page 30 --><a id="Page_30"></a>of Monroe where it was marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The @@ -1363,10 +1319,10 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the dog days<br /></span> <span>In its - overflowing dish<br /></span> <span>Livarot - gesticulates<br /></span> <span>Or weeps like a - child.<br /></span> + <span>In the dog days<br ></span> <span>In its + overflowing dish<br ></span> <span>Livarot + gesticulates<br ></span> <span>Or weeps like a + child.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -1376,21 +1332,21 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>At the diplomatic banquet<br /></span> <span>One - must choose his piece.<br /></span> <span>All is - politics,<br /></span> <span>A cheese and a - flag.<br /></span> + <span>At the diplomatic banquet<br ></span> <span>One + must choose his piece.<br ></span> <span>All is + politics,<br ></span> <span>A cheese and a + flag.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>You annoy the Russians<br /></span> <span>If you - take Chester;<br /></span> <span>You irritate the - Prussians<br /></span> <span>In choosing - Münster.<br /></span> + <span>You annoy the Russians<br ></span> <span>If you + take Chester;<br ></span> <span>You irritate the + Prussians<br ></span> <span>In choosing + Münster.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> + <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -1399,8 +1355,7 @@ Münster far milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in <i>When Madame Cooks</i> will have none of it:</p> - <p><!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" - id="Page_31"></a> I cannot think why this cheese was not + <p><!-- Page 31 --><a id="Page_31"></a> I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill people @@ -1412,12 +1367,12 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>If the cream cheese be white<br /></span> - <span>Far fairer the hands that made them.<br /></span> + <span>If the cream cheese be white<br ></span> + <span>Far fairer the hands that made them.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Arthur Hugh Clough<br /></span> + <span class="auth">Arthur Hugh Clough<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -1449,8 +1404,7 @@ <p>Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups - such as <!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" - id="Page_32"></a>onion and minestrone. It is brittle and + such as <!-- Page 32 --><a id="Page_32"></a>onion and minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged.</p> <p>Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both @@ -1497,8 +1451,7 @@ <p>Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and - such <!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" - id="Page_33"></a>great ones did long before. But it has not + such <!-- Page 33 --><a id="Page_33"></a>great ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable in the Americas.</p> @@ -1537,8 +1490,7 @@ readily imagine the head handler in the caves leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese - also employ cats to patrol <!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" - id="Page_34"></a>their storage caves, Roquefort holds the + also employ cats to patrol <!-- Page 34 --><a id="Page_34"></a>their storage caves, Roquefort holds the record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown away but greatly prized.</p> @@ -1554,8 +1506,8 @@ paper that says:</p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p> To be used grated only<br /> - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese<br /> + <p> To be used grated only<br > + Genuine Swiss Green Cheese<br > Made of skimmed milk and herbs</p> <p>To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? @@ -1583,8 +1535,7 @@ John Squire at the head, and already the boys are fighting.</p> - <p><!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" - id="Page_35"></a> One side, led by Sir John, is all for + <p><!-- Page 35 --><a id="Page_35"></a> One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument.</p> <p>This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton @@ -1629,7 +1580,7 @@ <p>There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two countries.</p> - <p class="author">Robert Benchley, in<br /> + <p class="author">Robert Benchley, in<br > <i>After 1903—What?</i></p> </div> @@ -1638,8 +1589,7 @@ with pride. For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's introduction to this book.</p> - <p><!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" - id="Page_36"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 36 --><a id="Page_36"></a> </p> <p><b>Taleggio and Bel Paese</b></p> @@ -1683,22 +1633,18 @@ we have ever sunk a fang.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" - id="Page_37"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 37 --><a id="Page_37"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/037.gif" - width="450" - height="310" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/037.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 310px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Four</i> </div> @@ -1721,8 +1667,7 @@ Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn.</p> <p>The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, - Cheddar, while <!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" - id="Page_38"></a> here at home it was popularly known as + Cheddar, while <!-- Page 38 --><a id="Page_38"></a> here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese because of its affinity for the all-American dessert.</p> @@ -1762,8 +1707,7 @@ Jack and Sage are seldom listed as Cheddars at all, although they are basically that.</p> - <p><!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" - id="Page_39"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 39 --><a id="Page_39"></a> </p> <p><b>Brick</b></p> @@ -1806,8 +1750,7 @@ <p>A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. - This <!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" - id="Page_40"></a>is a proud new American product, proving + This <!-- Page 40 --><a id="Page_40"></a>is a proud new American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable characters all on their own.</p> @@ -1848,8 +1791,7 @@ sharp and nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale orange color when it is properly aged.</p> - <p><!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" - id="Page_41"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 41 --><a id="Page_41"></a> </p> <p><b>Isigny</b></p> @@ -1893,8 +1835,7 @@ Song."</p> <p>Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young - delicatessen <!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" - id="Page_42"></a> keeper in New York, tried to please some + delicatessen <!-- Page 42 --><a id="Page_42"></a> keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an imitation of Bismarck Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and @@ -1922,20 +1863,17 @@ <p>Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between two foreign immortals in the following recipe:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert cheese<br /> - 1 Liederkranz<br /> - ⅛ pound imported Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - ½ cup finely chopped olives<br /> - ¼ cup canned pimiento<br /> + <p>1 ripe Camembert cheese<br > + 1 Liederkranz<br > + ⅛ pound imported Roquefort<br > + ¼ pound butter<br > + 1 tablespoon flour<br > + 1 cup cream<br > + ½ cup finely chopped olives<br > + ¼ cup canned pimiento<br > A sprinkling of cayenne</p> <p>Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of @@ -1943,8 +1881,7 @@ thick part off, or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix into - <!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" - id="Page_43"></a> an enameled pan, for anything with a + <!-- Page 43 --><a id="Page_43"></a> an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will turn the cheese black in cooking.</p> <p>Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a @@ -1986,8 +1923,7 @@ and the caves are sandstone instead of limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right.</p> - <p><!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" - id="Page_44"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 44 --><a id="Page_44"></a> </p> <p><b>Pineapple</b></p> @@ -2027,8 +1963,7 @@ hanging up of Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four sustaining strings.</p> - <p><!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" - id="Page_45"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 45 --><a id="Page_45"></a> </p> <p><b>Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State</b></p> @@ -2072,8 +2007,7 @@ however, to mix the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed over the curd with an atomizer. The - curd is then <!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" - id="Page_46"></a>salted and pressed into the regular + curd is then <!-- Page 46 --><a id="Page_46"></a>salted and pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes.</p> <p>A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York @@ -2125,8 +2059,7 @@ don't use synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that."</p> - <p>"<!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" - id="Page_47"></a> Then what do you use, George?" I + <p>"<!-- Page 47 --><a id="Page_47"></a> Then what do you use, George?" I inquired.</p> <p>"We use real sage."</p> @@ -2181,8 +2114,7 @@ are only two left—not counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese!</p> - <p><!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" - id="Page_48"></a> The crackers are the old-time store + <p><!-- Page 48 --><a id="Page_48"></a> The crackers are the old-time store cracker—every Vermonter used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold milk, with @@ -2225,8 +2157,7 @@ partial to it.</p> <p>Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all - of <!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" - id="Page_49"></a>these thirty-seven states together, they + of <!-- Page 49 --><a id="Page_49"></a>these thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as Wisconsin alone.</p> <p>Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional @@ -2243,8 +2174,8 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Apple pie without cheese<br /></span> <span>Is - like a kiss without a squeeze.<br /></span> + <span>Apple pie without cheese<br ></span> <span>Is + like a kiss without a squeeze.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -2266,22 +2197,18 @@ Swissconsin.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" - id="Page_50"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 50 --><a id="Page_50"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/050.gif" - width="340" - height="350" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/050.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 340px; height: 350px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Five</i> </div> @@ -2293,7 +2220,7 @@ recollection, with all its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, metaphysics and poetry.</p> - <p class="author">Charles Lamb,<br /> + <p class="author">Charles Lamb,<br > IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE</p> </div> @@ -2302,8 +2229,7 @@ with "First catch your Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden <i>fromages</i> such as Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures - thereof. We run the gamut <!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" - id="Page_51"></a> of personal preferences in selecting the + thereof. We run the gamut <!-- Page 51 --><a id="Page_51"></a> of personal preferences in selecting the Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no matter how you slice it.</p> @@ -2345,8 +2271,7 @@ <p>Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of - Rabbits: No. 1, <!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" - id="Page_52"></a> the wild male type made with beer, and No. + Rabbits: No. 1, <!-- Page 52 --><a id="Page_52"></a> the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking encyclopedias give up to a dozen @@ -2390,8 +2315,7 @@ <p>Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 temperance alternative) we must point out that beer - has a <!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" - id="Page_53"></a>special affinity for Cheddar. The French + has a <!-- Page 53 --><a id="Page_53"></a>special affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in their names for Welsh Rabbit, <i>Fromage Fondue à la Bière</i> and <i>Fondue à l'Anglaise</i>.</p> @@ -2432,8 +2356,7 @@ take two or three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is smooth. The consistency and velvety - <!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" - id="Page_54"></a>smoothness depend a good deal on whether or + <!-- Page 54 --><a id="Page_54"></a>smoothness depend a good deal on whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added.</p> <p>The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle @@ -2452,20 +2375,17 @@ BASIC WELSH RABBIT </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 1 (with beer)</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>No. 1 (with beer)</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 cups grated old Cheddar<br /> - ½ teaspoon English dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with<br /> - ½ cup light beer or ale<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 3 cups grated old Cheddar<br > + ½ teaspoon English dry mustard<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + A dash of cayenne<br > + 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br > + 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with<br > + ½ cup light beer or ale<br > 4 slices hot buttered toast</p> <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, @@ -2481,8 +2401,7 @@ <p>Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting - stringy or rubbery. <!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" - id="Page_55"></a> Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, + stringy or rubbery. <!-- Page 55 --><a id="Page_55"></a> Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast and serve instantly on hot plates.</p> </div> @@ -2498,22 +2417,19 @@ there is now no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, croutons and crackers, to infinity.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 2 (with milk)</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>No. 2 (with milk)</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>For a rich milk Rabbit use ½ cup thin cream, - evaporated milk,<br /> + evaporated milk,<br > whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. - Then, to<br /> + Then, to<br > keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or - leave<br /> + leave<br > it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, - the<br /> + the<br > use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our - feeling is<br /> + feeling is<br > that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out.</p> </div> @@ -2533,8 +2449,7 @@ up the flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you are fancy-free. As both black and white - <!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" - id="Page_56"></a>pepper are now held in almost equal esteem, + <!-- Page 56 --><a id="Page_56"></a>pepper are now held in almost equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but @@ -2550,22 +2465,19 @@ Tap your keg or open your case of ale or beer and serve <i>with</i>, not in your Rabbit."</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Stieff + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Stieff Recipe</b> BASIC MILK RABBIT</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>(<i>completely surrounded by a lake of malt beverages</i>)</p> - <p>2 cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - 3 heaping tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 1 heaping tablespoon mustard<br /> - 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce<br /> + <p>2 cups grated sharp cheese<br > + 3 heaping tablespoons butter<br > + 1½ cups milk<br > + 4 eggs<br > + 1 heaping tablespoon mustard<br > + 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce<br > Pepper, salt and paprika to taste—then add more of each.</p> @@ -2584,8 +2496,7 @@ to proper consistency over a fairly slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the rabbit from the spoon and spell the word <i>finis</i> on the surface. - <!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" - id="Page_57"></a> Pour over two pieces of toast per + <!-- Page 57 --><a id="Page_57"></a> Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who does not attack it at once.</p> @@ -2598,10 +2509,7 @@ bundles, nor yet should it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -2639,10 +2547,9 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" - id="Page_58"></a> <span>Look, look a - mouse!<br /></span> <span>Peace, peace;—this - piece of toasted cheese will do it.<br /></span> + <!-- Page 58 --><a id="Page_58"></a> <span>Look, look a + mouse!<br ></span> <span>Peace, peace;—this + piece of toasted cheese will do it.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -2667,7 +2574,7 @@ <p>St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing and singing such songs as '<i>Suspan - Fach</i>'"</p> + Fach</i>.'"</p> <p>The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown."</p> @@ -2692,25 +2599,24 @@ grow and grow to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but toasted cheese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" - id="Page_59"></a> Then there's the frightening nursery + <p><!-- Page 59 --><a id="Page_59"></a> Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme:</p> <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Irishman loved usquebaugh,<br /></span> + <span>The Irishman loved usquebaugh,<br ></span> <span class="i2">The Scot loved ale called - Bluecap.<br /></span> <span>The Welshman, he loved - toasted cheese,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And made - his mouth like a mousetrap.<br /></span> + Bluecap.<br ></span> <span>The Welshman, he loved + toasted cheese,<br ></span> <span class="i2">And made + his mouth like a mousetrap.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> <span>The Irishman was drowned in - usquebaugh,<br /></span> <span class="i2">The Scot was - drowned in ale,<br /></span> <span>The Welshman he near - swallowed a mouse<br /></span> <span class="i2">But he - pulled it out by the tail.<br /></span> + usquebaugh,<br ></span> <span class="i2">The Scot was + drowned in ale,<br ></span> <span>The Welshman he near + swallowed a mouse<br ></span> <span class="i2">But he + pulled it out by the tail.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -2720,7 +2626,7 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted - cheese.<br /></span> + cheese.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -2729,10 +2635,7 @@ enlivened the <i>Blackwoods Magazine</i> era with <i>Ten Tales</i>:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dr. Maginn's Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dr. Maginn's Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for @@ -2754,8 +2657,7 @@ recommend toasted cheese for supper.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" - id="Page_60"></a> The popularity of this has come down to us + <p><!-- Page 60 --><a id="Page_60"></a> The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master."</p> @@ -2764,10 +2666,7 @@ served as a savory to sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>After-Dinner Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>After-Dinner Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides @@ -2804,18 +2703,17 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 61 --><a name="Page_61" - id="Page_61"></a> <span>Champagne will not a - dinner make,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Nor - caviar a meal<br /></span> <span>Men gluttonous - and rich may take<br /></span> + <!-- Page 61 --><a id="Page_61"></a> <span>Champagne will not a + dinner make,<br ></span> <span class="i2">Nor + caviar a meal<br ></span> <span>Men gluttonous + and rich may take<br ></span> <span class="i2">Those till they make them - ill<br /></span> <span class="i4">If I've potatoes - to my chop,<br /></span> <span class="i4">And - after chop have cheese,<br /></span> + ill<br ></span> <span class="i4">If I've potatoes + to my chop,<br ></span> <span class="i4">And + after chop have cheese,<br ></span> <span class="i4">Angels in Pond and Spiers's - shop<br /></span> <span class="i4">Know no such - luxuries.<br /></span> + shop<br ></span> <span class="i4">Know no such + luxuries.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -2850,8 +2748,7 @@ piping hot in the square shallow tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately colored toast."</p> - <p><!-- Page 62 --><a name="Page_62" - id="Page_62"></a> Among early records is this report of + <p><!-- Page 62 --><a id="Page_62"></a> Among early records is this report of Addison's in <i>The Spectator</i> of September 25,1711:</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -2875,16 +2772,13 @@ tuppence, and that this was also the amount of the usual tip.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ye Original Recipe</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ye Original Recipe</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ ounces butter<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> + <p>1½ ounces butter<br > + 1 cup cream<br > 1½ cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, - snappier, richer,<br /> + snappier, richer,<br > and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar)</p> @@ -2899,13 +2793,12 @@ brand your own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew tin, and about the size of a piece of - toast</p> + toast.</p> </div> <p>It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were - washed down <!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" - id="Page_63"></a>in tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, + washed down <!-- Page 63 --><a id="Page_63"></a>in tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf.</p> <p>This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of @@ -2923,10 +2816,7 @@ England is perfumed with the petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oven Rabbit</b> (FROM AN OLD + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Oven Rabbit</b> (FROM AN OLD RECIPE)</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -2943,10 +2833,7 @@ set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before serving.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yorkshire Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Yorkshire Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p><i>(originally called Gherkin Buck, from a pioneer @@ -2964,11 +2851,7 @@ and serve as hot as possible.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" - id="Page_64"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 64 --><a id="Page_64"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Golden Buck</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer @@ -2978,20 +2861,14 @@ Buck with dashes of ginger and spice.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck II</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Golden Buck II</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Venerable Yorkshire + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Venerable Yorkshire Buck</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3005,18 +2882,15 @@ <p>Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yale College Welsh Rabbit</b> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Yale College Welsh Rabbit</b> (MORIARTY'S)</p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 jigger of beer<br /> - ¼ teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ¼ teaspoon mustard<br /> - 1½ cups grated or shaved cheese<br /> + <p>1 jigger of beer<br > + ¼ teaspoon salt<br > + ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br > + ¼ teaspoon mustard<br > + 1½ cups grated or shaved cheese<br > More beer</p> <p>Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on @@ -3028,8 +2902,7 @@ amount) and serve with still more beer.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" - id="Page_65"></a> There are two schools of postgraduate + <p><!-- Page 65 --><a id="Page_65"></a> There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but taps a keg @@ -3042,21 +2915,18 @@ Rabbit, which is precisely the same as our Basic Recipe No. 1.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Border-hopping Bunny, or + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ tablespoons chopped onion<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both<br /> - 1½ teaspoon chili powder<br /> - 1 small can kidney beans, drained<br /> - 1½ tablespoons catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire<br /> - Salt<br /> + <p>1½ tablespoons butter<br > + 1½ tablespoons chopped onion<br > + 2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both<br > + 1½ teaspoon chili powder<br > + 1 small can kidney beans, drained<br > + 1½ tablespoons catsup<br > + ½ teaspoon Worcestershire<br > + Salt<br > 2 cups grated cheese</p> <p>Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili @@ -3078,25 +2948,21 @@ great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, - since it <!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" - id="Page_66"></a>has had a successful run through a score of + since it <!-- Page 66 --><a id="Page_66"></a>has had a successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ¾ cup thin cream or evaporated milk<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 2 tablespoons flour<br > + ¾ cup thin cream or evaporated milk<br > ¾ cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to - remove seeds<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne<br /> + remove seeds<br > + A pinch of soda<br > + 3 cups grated cheese<br > + Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne<br > 2 eggs, lightly beaten</p> <p>Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when @@ -3110,10 +2976,7 @@ <p>Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of bicarbonate of potash."</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>South African Tomato + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>South African Tomato Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3124,23 +2987,19 @@ immediately.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc.</b> (OLD BOSTON STYLE)</p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 onion, minced<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 big pinch of pepper<br /> - 2 cups cooked tomatoes<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> - 3 cups grated store cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - <!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" - id="Page_67"></a></p> + <p>1 tablespoon butter<br > + 1 onion, minced<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > + 1 big pinch of pepper<br > + 2 cups cooked tomatoes<br > + 1 tablespoon sugar<br > + 3 cups grated store cheese<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > + <!-- Page 67 --><a id="Page_67"></a></p> <p>Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. @@ -3149,16 +3008,13 @@ hot</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Soup Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Soup Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> + <p>1 can condensed tomato soup<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > Salt and pepper</p> <p>Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and @@ -3170,10 +3026,7 @@ Rabbit if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Onion Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1½ cups @@ -3181,22 +3034,19 @@ onions.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 small onion, minced<br /> - 1 small green pepper, minced<br /> - 1 can tomato soup<br /> - ¾ cup milk<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 jigger sherry<br /> + <p>1 tablespoon butter<br > + 1 small onion, minced<br > + 1 small green pepper, minced<br > + 1 can tomato soup<br > + ¾ cup milk<br > + 3 cups grated cheese<br > + ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br > + Salt and pepper<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > + 1 jigger sherry<br > Crackers</p> <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to @@ -3205,11 +3055,7 @@ them.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" - id="Page_68"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blushing Bunny</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 68 --><a id="Page_68"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Blushing Bunny</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum @@ -3222,10 +3068,7 @@ dishes, like Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak <i>(Bubblum Squeakum</i>), and Toad in the Hole.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Scotch Woodcock</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Scotch Woodcock</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum @@ -3234,17 +3077,14 @@ buttered toast by laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Woodchuck</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>American Woodchuck</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups tomato purée<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - 1 tablespoon brown sugar<br /> + <p>1½ cups tomato purée<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > + Cayenne<br > + 1 tablespoon brown sugar<br > Salt and pepper</p> <p>Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly @@ -3258,16 +3098,12 @@ the Scotch Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with brown sugar.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Running Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Running Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>(<i>as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937</i>) - <!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" - id="Page_69"></a></p> + <!-- Page 69 --><a id="Page_69"></a></p> <p>Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add @@ -3282,22 +3118,19 @@ only and the Rabbit following the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog races.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mexican Chilaly</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Mexican Chilaly</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> + <p>1 tablespoon butter<br > 3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1½ tablespoons - chopped onion<br /> + chopped onion<br > 1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without - seeds<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¾ teaspoon salt<br /> - Dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 2 tablespoons canned tomato juice<br /> + seeds<br > + 2½ cups grated cheese<br > + ¾ teaspoon salt<br > + Dash of cayenne<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > + 2 tablespoons canned tomato juice<br > Water cress</p> <p>Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp @@ -3312,10 +3145,7 @@ <p>This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in spite of the centuries' difference in age.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs @@ -3324,11 +3154,7 @@ hot buttered toast, to make it extra eggy.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" - id="Page_70"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato Rabbit</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 70 --><a id="Page_70"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Tomato Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes ½-inch thick, @@ -3344,10 +3170,7 @@ touch of horseradish help.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato and Onion + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3364,44 +3187,37 @@ <p>For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Devil's Own</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>The Devil's Own</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>(<i>a fresh tomato variant</i>)</p> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - A pinch of cayenne<br /> - A dash of tabasco sauce<br /> - 2 tablespoons chili sauce<br /> - ½ cup ale or beer<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices<br > + 2½ cups grated cheese<br > + ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br > + A pinch of cayenne<br > + A dash of tabasco sauce<br > + 2 tablespoons chili sauce<br > + ½ cup ale or beer<br > 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> <p>Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. Keep warm on hot platter while you make - the toast and a Basic <!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" - id="Page_71"></a> Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot + the toast and a Basic <!-- Page 71 --><a id="Page_71"></a> Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot mixture over.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dried Beef or Chipped Beef + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded<br /> - ¼ pound dried beef, shredded<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ teaspoon pepper<br /> + <p>1 tablespoon butter<br > + 1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded<br > + ¼ pound dried beef, shredded<br > + 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br > + ¼ teaspoon pepper<br > 2 cups grated cheese</p> <p>Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until @@ -3414,17 +3230,14 @@ <i>tasajo</i> on the other side, and <i>xarque</i> when you get all the way down to Brazil.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Kansas Jack Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Kansas Jack Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup cream-style corn<br /> + <p>1 cup milk<br > + 3 tablespoons butter<br > + 3 tablespoons flour<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + 1 cup cream-style corn<br > Salt and pepper</p> <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in @@ -3439,30 +3252,26 @@ long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits quite as miraculous.</p> - <p><!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" - id="Page_72"></a> After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions + <p><!-- Page 72 --><a id="Page_72"></a> After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has everything.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Latin-American Corn + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Latin-American Corn Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 green pepper, chopped<br /> - 1 large onion, chopped<br /> - ½ cup condensed tomato soup<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 1 cup canned corn<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 green pepper, chopped<br > + 1 large onion, chopped<br > + ½ cup condensed tomato soup<br > + 3 cups grated cheese<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > + ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br > + ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br > + 1 cup canned corn<br > 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> <p>Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, @@ -3473,10 +3282,7 @@ and then pour over hot toast or crackers.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mushroom-Tomato + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3490,20 +3296,16 @@ or crackers.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Celery and Onion + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Celery and Onion Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup chopped hearts of celery<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1½ cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - <!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" - id="Page_73"></a></p> + <p>½ cup chopped hearts of celery<br > + 1 small onion, chopped<br > + 1 tablespoon butter<br > + 1½ cups grated sharp cheese<br > + Salt and pepper<br > + <!-- Page 73 --><a id="Page_73"></a></p> <p>In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir @@ -3514,27 +3316,21 @@ under the grill.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Asparagus Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Asparagus Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus tops for the celery and onion.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oyster Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Oyster Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 dozen oysters and their liquor<br /> - 1 teaspoon butter<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 large pinch of salt<br /> - 1 small pinch of cayenne<br /> + <p>2 dozen oysters and their liquor<br > + 1 teaspoon butter<br > + 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br > + 1 large pinch of salt<br > + 1 small pinch of cayenne<br > 3 cups grated cheese</p> <p>Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm @@ -3545,10 +3341,7 @@ on hot buttered toast.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sea-food Rabbits</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sea-food Rabbits</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p><i>(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, @@ -3564,11 +3357,7 @@ with horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" - id="Page_74"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>"Bouquet of the Sea" + <p><!-- Page 74 --><a id="Page_74"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>"Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3579,10 +3368,7 @@ accent it with tidbits of sea food as above.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3595,10 +3381,7 @@ new meaning.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Sardine + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Grilled Sardine Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3609,10 +3392,7 @@ succulent a grilled Rabbit.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roe Rabbits</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roe Rabbits</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other @@ -3622,10 +3402,7 @@ etc.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Sardine Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Plain Sardine Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in @@ -3633,11 +3410,7 @@ sardines, skinned, boned and flaked.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" - id="Page_75"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Anchovy Rabbit</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 75 --><a id="Page_75"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Anchovy Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East @@ -3646,10 +3419,7 @@ pour the Rabbit over.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked sturgeon, whiting, + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3662,10 +3432,7 @@ sturgeon.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked Cheddar Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Smoked Cheddar Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose @@ -3687,23 +3454,19 @@ Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Crumby Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">soaked with</span><br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - Toasted crackers<br /> - <!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" - id="Page_76"></a></p> + <p>1 tablespoon butter<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br > + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">soaked with</span><br > + 1 cup milk<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > + Salt<br > + Cayenne<br > + Toasted crackers<br > + <!-- Page 76 --><a id="Page_76"></a></p> <p>Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg @@ -3722,17 +3485,14 @@ milk, and seasoned with salt and paprika.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Tomato Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Crumby Tomato Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 teaspoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup soft bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup tomato soup<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> + <p>2 teaspoons butter<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + ½ cup soft bread crumbs<br > + 1 cup tomato soup<br > + Salt and pepper<br > 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> <p>Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the @@ -3741,19 +3501,16 @@ the bread crumbs.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gherkin or Irish + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gherkin or Irish Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup milk (or beer)<br /> - A dash of vinegar<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 2 cups grated cheese<br > + ½ cup milk (or beer)<br > + A dash of vinegar<br > + ½ teaspoon mustard<br > + Salt and pepper<br > ½ cup chopped gherkin pickles</p> <p>Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and @@ -3764,11 +3521,7 @@ <p>This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle.</p> - <p><!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" - id="Page_77"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dutch Rabbit</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 77 --><a id="Page_77"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dutch Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy @@ -3788,10 +3541,7 @@ water before every meal, while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pumpernickel Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pumpernickel Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This German deviation is made exactly the same as the @@ -3814,11 +3564,7 @@ Contemptuously he spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "<i>Bon pour Nicole</i>" in French.</p> - <p><!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" - id="Page_78"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gruyère Welsh Rabbit + <p><!-- Page 78 --><a id="Page_78"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gruyère Welsh Rabbit <i>au gratin</i></b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -3834,17 +3580,14 @@ redundant. To a Frenchman, however, it means a dish covered with bread crumbs.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Cheese Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>½ cup white wine, preferably - Neufchâtel<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - ½ saltspoon paprika<br /> + Neufchâtel<br > + ½ cup grated Gruyère<br > + 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br > + ½ saltspoon paprika<br > 2 egg yolks</p> <p>Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until @@ -3852,41 +3595,34 @@ least 3 more minutes until smooth.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sherry Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup cream or evaporated milk<br /> - ½ cup sherry<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> + <p>3 cups grated cheese<br > + ½ cup cream or evaporated milk<br > + ½ cup sherry<br > + ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br > + ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br > A dash of paprika</p> <p>Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until almost all of the cheese is melted, then add - sherry. When smooth <!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" - id="Page_79"></a> and creamy, stir in the mustard and + sherry. When smooth <!-- Page 79 --><a id="Page_79"></a> and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish Sherry Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Spanish Sherry Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 bouillon cube, mashed<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 1½ cups grated cheese<br /> + <p>3 tablespoons butter<br > + 3 tablespoons flour<br > + 1 bouillon cube, mashed<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br > + 1½ cups milk<br > + 1½ cups grated cheese<br > 1 jigger sherry</p> <p>Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and @@ -3896,23 +3632,20 @@ on hot, buttered toast.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pink Poodle</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pink Poodle</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon chopped onion<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 jigger California claret<br /> - 1 cup cream of tomato soup<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 teaspoon paprika<br /> - A dash of powdered cloves<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 tablespoon chopped onion<br > + 1 tablespoon flour<br > + 1 jigger California claret<br > + 1 cup cream of tomato soup<br > + A pinch of soda<br > + ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + 1 teaspoon paprika<br > + A dash of powdered cloves<br > + 3 cups grated cheese<br > 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> <p>Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in @@ -3929,19 +3662,15 @@ even deeper draught of the mellow scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow.</p> - <p><!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" - id="Page_80"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Savory Eggy Dry + <p><!-- Page 80 --><a id="Page_80"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Gruyère<br /> - 4 eggs, well-beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> + <p>⅛ pound butter<br > + 2 cups grated Gruyère<br > + 4 eggs, well-beaten<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper<br > Mustard</p> <p>Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, @@ -3954,10 +3683,7 @@ sweets to finish a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cream Cheese Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is @@ -3968,34 +3694,29 @@ a change.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Reducing Rarebit</b> (Tomato - Rarebit)<a name="FNanchor_A_1" - id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Reducing Rarebit</b> (Tomato + Rarebit)<a id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving.</p> - <p>½ pound farmer cheese<br /> - 2 eggs<br /> - 1 level tablespoon powdered milk<br /> - 1 level teaspoon baking powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder<br /> - 4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or<br /> - 2 tomatoes, quartered<br /> - 1 teaspoon caraway seeds<br /> - ¼ teaspoon garlic powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon parsley flakes<br /> - ½ head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber<br /> - ¼ cup wine vinegar<br /> + <p>½ pound farmer cheese<br > + 2 eggs<br > + 1 level tablespoon powdered milk<br > + 1 level teaspoon baking powder<br > + 1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder<br > + 4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or<br > + 2 tomatoes, quartered<br > + 1 teaspoon caraway seeds<br > + ¼ teaspoon garlic powder<br > + 1 teaspoon parsley flakes<br > + ½ head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber<br > + ¼ cup wine vinegar<br > Salt and pepper to taste</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" - id="Page_81"></a></p> + <p><!-- Page 81 --><a id="Page_81"></a></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Fill bottom of double boiler with water to ¾ @@ -4012,26 +3733,22 @@ </div> <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_A_1" - id="Footnote_A_1"></a> + <p><a id="Footnote_A_1"></a> <a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> (from <i>The Low-Calory Cookbook</i> by Bernard Koten, published by Random House)</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Curry Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Curry Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon cornstarch<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon minced chives<br /> - 2 green onions, minced<br /> - 2 shallots, minced<br /> - ¼ teaspoon imported curry powder<br /> + <p>1 tablespoon cornstarch<br > + 2 cups milk<br > + 2½ cups grated cheese<br > + 1 tablespoon minced chives<br > + 2 green onions, minced<br > + 2 shallots, minced<br > + ¼ teaspoon imported curry powder<br > 1 tablespoon chutney sauce</p> <p>Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald @@ -4045,20 +3762,14 @@ Rabbits, just as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ginger Ale Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ginger Ale Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 Rabbit of all time.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Buttermilk Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Buttermilk Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 @@ -4067,16 +3778,12 @@ This is milder.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" - id="Page_82"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggnog Rabbit</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 82 --><a id="Page_82"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Eggnog Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons sweet butter<br /> - 2 cups grated mellow Cheddar<br /> - 1⅓ cups eggnog<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons sweet butter<br > + 2 cups grated mellow Cheddar<br > + 1⅓ cups eggnog<br > Dashes of spice to taste.</p> <p>After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog @@ -4089,18 +3796,15 @@ milkman in holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been multiplying as fast as guinea pigs.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Succotash + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>All-American Succotash Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup creamed succotash, strained<br /> + <p>1 cup milk<br > + 3 tablespoons butter<br > + 3 tablespoons flour<br > + 3 cups grated cheese<br > + 1 cup creamed succotash, strained<br > Salt and pepper</p> <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in @@ -4110,13 +3814,10 @@ <p>Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Rabbit</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Danish Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 quart warm milk<br /> + <p>1 quart warm milk<br > 2 cups grated cheese</p> <p>Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot @@ -4127,11 +3828,7 @@ taste.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" - id="Page_83"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Easy English Rabbit</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 83 --><a id="Page_83"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Easy English Rabbit</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of @@ -4142,22 +3839,18 @@ </div> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 84 --> <a name="Page_84" - id="Page_84"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 84 --> <a id="Page_84"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/084.gif" - width="450" - height="311" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/084.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 311px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Six</i> </div> @@ -4186,8 +3879,7 @@ </div> <p>A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety - <!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" - id="Page_85"></a>and inebriety of nations, if not of + <!-- Page 85 --><a id="Page_85"></a>and inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with @@ -4230,8 +3922,7 @@ and a nut of butter about half the weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about 1½ ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. - <!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" - id="Page_86"></a>your lump of good Gruyère would + <!-- Page 86 --><a id="Page_86"></a>your lump of good Gruyère would come to ¼ pound and your butter to ⅛ pound.)</p> @@ -4278,37 +3969,33 @@ <p>"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of - <!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" - id="Page_87"></a>my movements. They were loud in the praise + <!-- Page 87 --><a id="Page_87"></a>my movements. They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let them have the receipt, which I promised them...."</p> <p>This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a good start was polished off with "fruits in season and - sweets, a cup of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of + sweets, a cup of genuine mocha ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening."</p> <p>This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in what is called:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neufchâtel + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Neufchâtel Style</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ cups grated imported Swiss<br /> - 1½ tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 clove of garlic<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> + <p>2½ cups grated imported Swiss<br > + 1½ tablespoons flour<br > + 1 clove of garlic<br > + 1 cup dry white wine<br > Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big - mouthfuls, handy<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">for dunking</span><br /> - 1 jigger kirsch<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> + mouthfuls, handy<br > + <span style="margin-left: 2em;">for dunking</span><br > + 1 jigger kirsch<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper<br > Nutmeg</p> <p>The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and @@ -4331,8 +4018,7 @@ <p>The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your - bread <!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" - id="Page_88"></a>comes off in dunking you pay a forfeit, + bread <!-- Page 88 --><a id="Page_88"></a>comes off in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine.</p> <p>The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests @@ -4376,8 +4062,7 @@ similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, stuffed-shirt buildup around any Soufflé, - <!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" - id="Page_89"></a>suggesting a dressy dinner, while Fondue + <!-- Page 89 --><a id="Page_89"></a>suggesting a dressy dinner, while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl.</p> <p>Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original @@ -4393,10 +4078,7 @@ it is credited to Italy in the following description we reprint from <i>When Madame Cooks</i>, by an Englishman, Eric Weir:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fondue à + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fondue à l'Italienne</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -4423,8 +4105,7 @@ boiling, does not bubble over the mixture.</p> <p>Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is - cooked. When <!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" - id="Page_90"></a> the knife comes out clean, take the + cooked. When <!-- Page 90 --><a id="Page_90"></a> the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep the shape of the basin.</p> @@ -4437,15 +4118,12 @@ being melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted here in:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>All-American Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed<br /> + <p>1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed<br > ¾ cup scuppernong or other American white - wine<br /> + wine<br > 1½ jiggers applejack</p> <p>After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply @@ -4474,8 +4152,7 @@ twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière.</p> - <p><!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" - id="Page_91"></a> Beginning with Savarin the French whisked + <p><!-- Page 91 --><a id="Page_91"></a> Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, rhapsodic writing about Gruyère and its offspring, the Fondue, together with the puffed Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese except @@ -4485,16 +4162,13 @@ culinary cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> + <p>3 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese<br > + 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br > + Salt<br > Pepper</p> <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir @@ -4507,20 +4181,17 @@ chicken-in-the-rough.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sapsago Swiss Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sapsago Swiss Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups shredded Swiss cheese<br /> - 2½ tablespoons grated Sapsago<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - Pepper, black and red, freshly ground<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 2 tablespoons flour<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + 1½ cups milk<br > + 2½ cups shredded Swiss cheese<br > + 2½ tablespoons grated Sapsago<br > + ½ cup dry white wine<br > + Pepper, black and red, freshly ground<br > Fingers of toast</p> <p>Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into @@ -4532,8 +4203,7 @@ toast.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" - id="Page_92"></a> This is also nice when served bubbling in + <p><!-- Page 92 --><a id="Page_92"></a> This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, cooked slices of @@ -4577,19 +4247,15 @@ Montagne</i>.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" - id="Page_93"></a> Here is a good assortment of Fondues:</p> + <p><!-- Page 93 --><a id="Page_93"></a> Here is a good assortment of Fondues:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vacherin-Fribourg + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 clove garlic, crushed<br /> - 2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese<br /> + <p>2 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 clove garlic, crushed<br > + 2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese<br > 2 tablespoons hot water</p> <p>This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic @@ -4601,10 +4267,7 @@ of wine.)</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue Comtois</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>La Fondue Comtois</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made @@ -4613,29 +4276,25 @@ Gruyère, beaten eggs and that touch of garlic.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chives Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Chives Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated Swiss cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 garlic clove, crushed<br /> - 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> - Salt<br /> - Freshly ground pepper<br /> - A pinch of nutmeg<br /> + <p>3 cups grated Swiss cheese<br > + 3 tablespoons flour<br > + 2 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 garlic clove, crushed<br > + 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives<br > + 1 cup dry white wine<br > + Salt<br > + Freshly ground pepper<br > + A pinch of nutmeg<br > ¼ cup kirsch</p> <p>Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour mix gradually, stirring always in one - direction. Salt <!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" - id="Page_94"></a>according to age and sharpness of + direction. Salt <!-- Page 94 --><a id="Page_94"></a>according to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground pepper and the pinch of nutmeg.</p> @@ -4648,18 +4307,15 @@ with the absorbent bread, or hard rolls.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped<br /> - ½ teaspoon dried sweet basil<br /> - 1 clove garlic<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - 2 cups grated Cheddar cheese<br /> + <p>2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped<br > + ½ teaspoon dried sweet basil<br > + 1 clove garlic<br > + 2 tablespoons butter<br > + ½ cup dry white wine<br > + 2 cups grated Cheddar cheese<br > Paprika</p> <p>Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with @@ -4677,23 +4333,19 @@ <p>Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Baked Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato Baked Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup tomato juice<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup grated sharp American cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon melted butter<br /> - Salt<br /> + <p>1 cup tomato juice<br > + 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br > + 1 cup grated sharp American cheese<br > + 1 tablespoon melted butter<br > + Salt<br > 4 eggs, separated and well beaten</p> <p>Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, season with a little or no salt, depending on - saltiness of the <!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" - id="Page_95"></a> cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold + saltiness of the <!-- Page 95 --><a id="Page_95"></a> cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake about 50 minutes in moderate oven.</p> </div> @@ -4708,10 +4360,7 @@ original recipe came from the super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, <i>La Fondue au Fromage</i>.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue au Fromage</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>La Fondue au Fromage</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, @@ -4727,27 +4376,23 @@ Worcestershire, mustard and hot peppers. Today we have come up with this:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>100% American Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>100% American Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups scalded milk<br /> - 2 cups stale bread crumbs<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry English mustard<br /> - Salt<br /> - Dash of nutmeg<br /> - Dash of pepper<br /> - 2 cups American cheese (Cheddar)<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> + <p>2 cups scalded milk<br > + 2 cups stale bread crumbs<br > + ½ teaspoon dry English mustard<br > + Salt<br > + Dash of nutmeg<br > + Dash of pepper<br > + 2 cups American cheese (Cheddar)<br > + 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br > 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> <p>Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites - stiff, leaving them <!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" - id="Page_96"></a> slightly moist. Fold the whites into + stiff, leaving them <!-- Page 96 --><a id="Page_96"></a> slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a moderate oven.)</p> </div> @@ -4758,22 +4403,19 @@ bland cookery.</p> <div class="cats"> - OTHER FONDUES<br /> - PLAIN AND FANCY,<br /> + OTHER FONDUES<br > + PLAIN AND FANCY,<br > BAKED AND NOT </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Quickie Catsup Tummy + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp cheese, diced<br /> - 1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - ½ cup catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> + <p>¾ pound sharp cheese, diced<br > + 1 can condensed tomato soup<br > + ½ cup catsup<br > + ½ teaspoon mustard<br > 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> <p>In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly @@ -4785,18 +4427,15 @@ <p>This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of cocoa, for a change.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Rice + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Rice Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup cooked rice<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs, separated and well beaten<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> + <p>1 cup cooked rice<br > + 2 cups milk<br > + 4 eggs, separated and well beaten<br > + ½ cup grated cheese<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three</p> @@ -4805,21 +4444,17 @@ season, fold in stiff egg whites. Serve hot on toast.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" - id="Page_97"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Corn and Cheese + <p><!-- Page 97 --><a id="Page_97"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Corn and Cheese Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup bread crumbs<br /> - 1 large can creamed corn<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - ½ green pepper, chopped<br /> - 2 cups cottage cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> + <p>1 cup bread crumbs<br > + 1 large can creamed corn<br > + 1 small onion, chopped<br > + ½ green pepper, chopped<br > + 2 cups cottage cheese<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + ½ cup milk<br > 2 eggs, well beaten</p> <p>Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered @@ -4827,17 +4462,14 @@ moderate oven, or until set.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Cheddar<br /> - ½ cup crumbled Roquefort<br /> - 1 cup pimento cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> + <p>1 cup grated Cheddar<br > + ½ cup crumbled Roquefort<br > + 1 cup pimento cheese<br > + 3 tablespoons cream<br > + 3 tablespoons butter<br > 1 teaspoon Worcestershire</p> <p>Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and @@ -4848,16 +4480,13 @@ crackers.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brick Fondue</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Brick Fondue</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Brick cheese<br /> - ½ cup warm milk<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> + <p>½ cup butter<br > + 2 cups grated Brick cheese<br > + ½ cup warm milk<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > 2 eggs</p> <p>Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip @@ -4869,16 +4498,12 @@ <p>Serve over hot toast or crackers.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" - id="Page_98"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Dunk Bowl</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 98 --><a id="Page_98"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheddar Dunk Bowl</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp Cheddar cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - ⅔ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> + <p>¾ pound sharp Cheddar cheese<br > + 3 tablespoons cream<br > + ⅔ teaspoon dry mustard<br > 1½ teaspoons Worcestershire</p> <p>Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with @@ -4892,22 +4517,18 @@ </div> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" - id="Page_99"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 99 --><a id="Page_99"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/099.gif" - width="450" - height="304" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/099.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 304px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Seven</i> </div> @@ -4925,20 +4546,16 @@ again the principal factor in Soufflé, from the French <i>souffler</i>, puff up).</p> - <p><!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" - id="Page_100"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Basic Soufflé</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 100 --><a id="Page_100"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Basic Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter or margarine<br /> - 4 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1¼ cups hot milk, scalded<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - ½ cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> + <p>3 tablespoons butter or margarine<br > + 4 tablespoons flour<br > + 1¼ cups hot milk, scalded<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > + A dash of cayenne<br > + ½ cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp<br > + 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br > 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> <p>Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until @@ -4967,42 +4584,32 @@ three of these together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes below.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small modifications in the ingredients:</p> - <p><!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" - id="Page_101"></a> 1 full cup of grated Parmesan<br /> + <p><!-- Page 101 --><a id="Page_101"></a> 1 full cup of grated Parmesan<br > 1 extra egg in place of the ½ cup of Cheddar - cheese<br /> - A little more butter<br /> + cheese<br > + A little more butter<br > Black pepper, not cayenne</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Soufflé</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight changes:</p> <p>1¼ cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the - Cheddar cheese<br /> + Cheddar cheese<br > Nutmeg in place of the cayenne</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan-Swiss + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan-Swiss Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5010,8 +4617,8 @@ differences:</p> <p>½ cup grated Swiss cheese, and ½ cup - grated Parmesan in place<br /> - of the Cheddar cheese<br /> + grated Parmesan in place<br > + of the Cheddar cheese<br > ¼ teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning.</p> </div> @@ -5019,10 +4626,7 @@ <p>Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a grand dinner.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Corn + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Corn Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5031,10 +4635,7 @@ cream-style canned corn.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Spinach + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Spinach Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5045,21 +4646,14 @@ cheese and following the rest of the recipe.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Tomato + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Tomato Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" - id="Page_102"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Sea-food + <p><!-- Page 102 --><a id="Page_102"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Sea-food Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5068,20 +4662,17 @@ preferred seasoning added.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Mushroom + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Mushroom Soufflé</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups grated sharp Cheddar<br /> - 1 cup cream of mushroom soup<br /> - Paprika, to taste<br /> - Salt<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon<br /> + <p>1½ cups grated sharp Cheddar<br > + 1 cup cream of mushroom soup<br > + Paprika, to taste<br > + Salt<br > + 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br > + 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br > + 2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon<br > 2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds</p> <p>Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese @@ -5092,22 +4683,19 @@ hour).</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Potato + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-Potato Soufflé</b> (Potato Puff)</p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>6 potatoes<br /> - 2 onions<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter or margarine<br /> - 1 cup hot milk<br /> - ¾ cup grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of pepper<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> + <p>6 potatoes<br > + 2 onions<br > + 1 tablespoon butter or margarine<br > + 1 cup hot milk<br > + ¾ cup grated Cheddar cheese<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > + A dash of pepper<br > + 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br > + 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br > ¼ cup grated Cheddar cheese</p> <p>Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put @@ -5115,8 +4703,7 @@ the egg whites and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the ¼ cup of Cheddar on - <!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" - id="Page_103"></a> top and bake in moderate oven about + <!-- Page 103 --><a id="Page_103"></a> top and bake in moderate oven about ½ hour, until golden-brown and well puffed. Serve instantly.</p> @@ -5134,10 +4721,7 @@ of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be stood on the face of a sixpence."</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fritter + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Fritter Soufflés</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5150,16 +4734,13 @@ PUFFS </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Three-in-One Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Swiss<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan<br /> - 1 cup cream cheese<br /> - 5 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> + <p>1 cup grated Swiss<br > + 1 cup grated Parmesan<br > + 1 cup cream cheese<br > + 5 eggs, lightly beaten<br > salt and pepper</p> <p>Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten @@ -5173,23 +4754,19 @@ this entire section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. These may be paper boxes, usually - round, earthenware, <!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" - id="Page_104"></a>china, Pyrex, of any attractive shape in + round, earthenware, <!-- Page 104 --><a id="Page_104"></a>china, Pyrex, of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs.</p> <p>More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin dishes, as follows:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fried Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Fried Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - Salt<br /> + <p>2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br > + ½ cup grated cheese<br > + 1 tablespoon flour<br > + Salt<br > Paprika</p> <p>Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and @@ -5197,14 +4774,11 @@ roll in crumbs and fry.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roquefort Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound genuine French Roquefort<br /> - 1 egg white, beaten stiff<br /> + <p>⅛ pound genuine French Roquefort<br > + 1 egg white, beaten stiff<br > 8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds</p> <p>Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on @@ -5218,16 +4792,12 @@ droop to them that shows there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in cooking.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a - score <!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" - id="Page_105"></a>or more of crackers in a roomy pan and + score <!-- Page 105 --><a id="Page_105"></a>or more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes till they puff up golden-brown.</p> @@ -5238,16 +4808,13 @@ its flavor.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Breakfast Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Breakfast Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup flour<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - ¼ cup finely grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> + <p>1 cup flour<br > + 1 cup milk<br > + ¼ cup finely grated cheese<br > + 1 egg, lightly beaten<br > ½ teaspoon salt</p> <p>Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill @@ -5255,18 +4822,15 @@ they are puffing over the top and golden-brown.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Fondue Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Danish Fondue Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 stale roll<br /> - ½ cup boiling hot milk<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> + <p>1 stale roll<br > + ½ cup boiling hot milk<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper<br > + 2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br > + 4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br > 4 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> <p>Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with @@ -5275,24 +4839,20 @@ slowly bake until puffed up and golden-brown.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>New England Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>New England Cheese Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon baking powder<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon Hungarian paprika<br /> - ¼ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry<br /> - <!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" - id="Page_106"></a></p> + <p>1 cup sifted flour<br > + 1 teaspoon baking powder<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + ½ teaspoon Hungarian paprika<br > + ¼ teaspoon dry mustard<br > + 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br > + ½ cup milk<br > + 1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br > + 2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry<br > + <!-- Page 106 --><a id="Page_106"></a></p> <p>Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold @@ -5306,16 +4866,13 @@ <p>A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Puffs</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cream Cheese Puffs</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> + <p>½ pound cream cheese<br > + 1 cup milk<br > + 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > ½ teaspoon dry mustard</p> <p>Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from @@ -5341,34 +4898,27 @@ used chiefly in the plural, however, together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken Ramekins" and:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins I</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins I</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, melted<br /> - ⅛ pound grated cheese<br /> - <!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" - id="Page_107"></a></p> + <p>2 eggs<br > + 2 tablespoons flour<br > + ⅛ pound butter, melted<br > + ⅛ pound grated cheese<br > + <!-- Page 107 --><a id="Page_107"></a></p> <p>Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins II</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins II</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - ½ teaspoon each, salt and pepper<br /> - ¾ cup bread crumbs<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> + <p>3 tablespoons melted butter<br > + ½ teaspoon each, salt and pepper<br > + ¾ cup bread crumbs<br > + ½ cup grated cheese<br > + 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br > 1½ cups milk</p> <p>Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs @@ -5380,14 +4930,11 @@ </div> <div class="cats"> - TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES,<br /> + TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES,<br > STILL GOING STRONG </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins III</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins III</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Grate ½ pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a @@ -5411,8 +4958,7 @@ <p>The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, Gruyère. But because the early English also - adopted Italian Parmesan, <!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" - id="Page_108"></a> that followed as a close second, and + adopted Italian Parmesan, <!-- Page 108 --><a id="Page_108"></a> that followed as a close second, and remains there today.</p> <p>Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this @@ -5424,10 +4970,7 @@ <i>Closet Open'd</i> as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted cheese."</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins IV</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Ramekins IV</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Scrape fine ¼ pound of Gloucester cheese and @@ -5452,25 +4995,21 @@ different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ramequins à la + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Ramequins à la Parisienne</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups milk<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - 1 ounce salt butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - Coarsely ground pepper<br /> - An atom of nutmeg<br /> - A <i>soupçon</i> of garlic<br /> - A light touch of powdered sugar<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - <!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" - id="Page_109"></a></p> + <p>2 cups milk<br > + 1 cup cream<br > + 1 ounce salt butter<br > + 1 tablespoon flour<br > + ½ cup grated Gruyère<br > + Coarsely ground pepper<br > + An atom of nutmeg<br > + A <i>soupçon</i> of garlic<br > + A light touch of powdered sugar<br > + 8 eggs, separated<br > + <!-- Page 109 --><a id="Page_109"></a></p> <p>Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and @@ -5486,10 +5025,7 @@ minutes).</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Le Ramequin + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Le Ramequin Morézien</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5505,18 +5041,15 @@ are the simply named <i>Les Ramequins</i>, made of flour, Gruyère and eggs.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss-Roquefort + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ pound Swiss cheese<br /> - ¼ pound Roquefort cheese<br /> - ½ pound butter<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - 4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed<br /> + <p>¼ pound Swiss cheese<br > + ¼ pound Roquefort cheese<br > + ½ pound butter<br > + 8 eggs, separated<br > + 4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed<br > ½ cup cream</p> <p>The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft @@ -5526,11 +5059,7 @@ Then they are served instantaneously, lest they fall.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" - id="Page_110"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Puff Paste Ramekins</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 110 --><a id="Page_110"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Puff Paste Ramekins</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled @@ -5547,10 +5076,7 @@ shine.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Frying Pan Ramekins</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Frying Pan Ramekins</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then @@ -5570,10 +5096,7 @@ with an iron that has a gay, carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Casserole Ramekin</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Casserole Ramekin</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a @@ -5585,23 +5108,18 @@ </div> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 111 --><a name="Page_111" - id="Page_111"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 111 --><a id="Page_111"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/111.gif" - width="450" - height="397" - alt="" - title="" /> + <img src="images/111.gif" alt="" title="" style="width: 450px; height: 397px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Eight</i> </div> @@ -5610,34 +5128,30 @@ <p>No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them with pizza.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pizza—The Tomato Pie of + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pizza—The Tomato Pie of Sicily</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>DOUGH</p> - <p>1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water<br /> - 2 cups sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> + <p>1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water<br > + 2 cups sifted flour<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > 2 tablespoons olive oil</p> <p>Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice the size.</p> - <p><!-- Page 112 --><a name="Page_112" - id="Page_112"></a>TOMATO PASTE</p> + <p><!-- Page 112 --><a id="Page_112"></a>TOMATO PASTE</p> - <p>3 tablespoons olive oil<br /> - 2 large onions, sliced thin<br /> - 1 can Italian tomato paste<br /> - 8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small<br /> - ½ teaspoon oregano<br /> - Salt<br /> - Crushed chili pepper<br /> + <p>3 tablespoons olive oil<br > + 2 large onions, sliced thin<br > + 1 can Italian tomato paste<br > + 8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small<br > + ½ teaspoon oregano<br > + Salt<br > + Crushed chili pepper<br > 2½ cups water</p>> <p>In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in @@ -5665,10 +5179,7 @@ regular apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /><b>Miniature Pizzas</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"><b>Miniature Pizzas</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with @@ -5677,20 +5188,16 @@ oregano and grated Parmesan, and heat 8 minutes.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 113 --><a name="Page_113" - id="Page_113"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian-Swiss + <p><!-- Page 113 --><a id="Page_113"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian-Swiss Scallopini</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets<br /> - ½ cup flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed<br /> - 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water<br /> - Butter<br /> - Salt<br /> + <p>1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets<br > + ½ cup flour<br > + ½ cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed<br > + 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water<br > + Butter<br > + Salt<br > Paprika</p> <p>Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with @@ -5698,20 +5205,17 @@ till tender. Dust with paprika and salt.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles<br /> - 1½ cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat<br /> - ½ pound Ricotta or cottage cheese<br /> - 1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar<br /> - ¼ pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper, preferably crushed red pods<br /> + <p>1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles<br > + 1½ cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat<br > + ½ pound Ricotta or cottage cheese<br > + 1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar<br > + ¼ pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper, preferably crushed red pods<br > A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute</p> @@ -5728,23 +5232,19 @@ more of the sauce to taste.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Little Hats, + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Little Hats, Cappelletti</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little - Italy macaroni shop. <!-- Page 114 --><a name="Page_114" - id="Page_114"></a> These may be stuffed sensationally in + Italy macaroni shop. <!-- Page 114 --><a id="Page_114"></a> These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors with only two cheeses.</p> <p>Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal amounts. Season these with salt, pepper - and nutmeg and a binding of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg + and nutmeg and a binding of 2 parts egg yolk to 1 part egg white.</p> <p>With these meat mixtures you can make four @@ -5768,10 +5268,7 @@ without letting the others know what it's doing.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dauphiny Ravioli</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Dauphiny Ravioli</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of @@ -5780,22 +5277,18 @@ parsley and boiled in chicken broth.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritters</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Fritters</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ cup flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons sugar<br /> - ¼ pound fresh Ricotta<br /> - 2 eggs, beaten<br /> - ½ cup shredded Mozzarella<br /> - Rind of ½ lemon, grated<br /> - 3 tablespoons brandy<br /> - Salt<br /> - <!-- Page 115 --><a name="Page_115" - id="Page_115"></a></p> + <p>¼ cup flour<br > + 2 tablespoons sugar<br > + ¼ pound fresh Ricotta<br > + 2 eggs, beaten<br > + ½ cup shredded Mozzarella<br > + Rind of ½ lemon, grated<br > + 3 tablespoons brandy<br > + Salt<br > + <!-- Page 115 --><a id="Page_115"></a></p> <p>Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold @@ -5810,10 +5303,7 @@ contrasting cheeses in this batter.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Asparagus and + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Asparagus and Cheese</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -5829,10 +5319,7 @@ Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Garlic on Cheese</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Garlic on Cheese</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by @@ -5857,13 +5344,12 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <!-- Page 116 --> - <a name="Page_116" - id="Page_116"></a> <span>I had rather - live<br /></span> <span>With cheese and garlic in - a windmill, far,<br /></span> <span>Than feed on - cates and have him talk to me<br /></span> + <a id="Page_116"></a> <span>I had rather + live<br ></span> <span>With cheese and garlic in + a windmill, far,<br ></span> <span>Than feed on + cates and have him talk to me<br ></span> <span>In any summer-house in - Christendom.<br /></span> + Christendom.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -5873,10 +5359,7 @@ of another early English writer: "Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young men."</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blintzes</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Blintzes</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>This snow white member of the crêpes suzette @@ -5885,13 +5368,13 @@ joined blinis, kreplach and cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers.</p> - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 1 cup water<br /> - 1 cup sifted flour<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cooking oil<br /> - ½ pound cottage cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> + <p>2 eggs<br > + 1 cup water<br > + 1 cup sifted flour<br > + Salt<br > + Cooking oil<br > + ½ pound cottage cheese<br > + 2 tablespoons butter<br > 2 cups sour cream</p> <p>Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour @@ -5907,16 +5390,12 @@ once with sufficient sour cream to smother them.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vatroushki</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Vatroushki</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be - made was <!-- Page 117 --><a name="Page_117" - id="Page_117"></a> vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes + made was <!-- Page 117 --><a id="Page_117"></a> vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese filling, and the @@ -5927,33 +5406,27 @@ oven.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cottage Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cottage Cheese Pancakes</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup prepared pancake<br /> - 4 tablespoons top milk or light cream<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 4 eggs, well beaten<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> + <p>1 cup prepared pancake<br > + 4 tablespoons top milk or light cream<br > + 1 teaspoon salt<br > + 4 eggs, well beaten<br > + 1 tablespoon sugar<br > 2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer</p> <p>Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Waffles</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Waffles</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups prepared waffle flour<br /> - 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ cup melted butter<br /> - ¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar<br /> + <p>2 cups prepared waffle flour<br > + 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten<br > + ¼ cup melted butter<br > + ¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar<br > 3 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> <p>Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 @@ -5963,23 +5436,19 @@ <p>Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat quickly and serve.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Napkin Dumpling</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Napkin Dumpling</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound cottage cheese<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, softened<br /> - 3 eggs, beaten<br /> - ¾ cup Farina<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> + <p>1 pound cottage cheese<br > + ⅛ pound butter, softened<br > + 3 eggs, beaten<br > + ¾ cup Farina<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > Cinnamon and brown sugar</p> <p>Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold - water and tie <!-- Page 118 --><a name="Page_118" - id="Page_118"></a>the ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to + water and tie <!-- Page 118 --><a id="Page_118"></a>the ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and other @@ -5993,15 +5462,15 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Where fish is scant<br /></span> <span>And fruit - of trees,<br /></span> <span>Supply that - want<br /></span> <span>With butter and - cheese.<br /></span> + <span>Where fish is scant<br ></span> <span>And fruit + of trees,<br ></span> <span>Supply that + want<br ></span> <span>With butter and + cheese.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Thomas Tusser in<br /></span> - <span class="auth"><i>The Last Remedy</i><br /></span> + <span class="auth">Thomas Tusser in<br ></span> + <span class="auth"><i>The Last Remedy</i><br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6028,8 +5497,7 @@ buttermilk he dies."</p> <p>Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of - <!-- Page 119 --><a name="Page_119" - id="Page_119"></a>dairy manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese + <!-- Page 119 --><a id="Page_119"></a>dairy manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment @@ -6070,8 +5538,7 @@ a smooth, creamy consistency, and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange.</p> - <p><!-- Page 120 --><a name="Page_120" - id="Page_120"></a></p> + <p><!-- Page 120 --><a id="Page_120"></a></p> <div class="cats"> CREAM CHEESE @@ -6087,9 +5554,9 @@ Devonshire.</li> <li>Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, - packaged<br /> + packaged<br > in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, - as<br /> + as<br > in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese.</li> </ol> @@ -6128,8 +5595,7 @@ <p>We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. Attempts at this have been made, both here and in - England; <!-- Page 121 --><a name="Page_121" - id="Page_121"></a>Scottish Caledonian cream came closest. We + England; <!-- Page 121 --><a id="Page_121"></a>Scottish Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses seem especially suitable.</p> @@ -6137,12 +5603,12 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>The farmer's daughter hath soft brown - hair<br /></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese)<br /></span> <span>And I met with a ballad I - can't say where,<br /></span> <span>That wholly - consisted of lines like these,<br /></span> + hair<br ></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of + cheese)<br ></span> <span>And I met with a ballad I + can't say where,<br ></span> <span>That wholly + consisted of lines like these,<br ></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese.)<br /></span> + cheese.)<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6186,8 +5652,7 @@ earlier in this section, as the Coronation dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city luncheon in Guildhall This is most <!-- Page 122 --> - <a name="Page_122" - id="Page_122"></a>fitting, since these tarts were named + <a id="Page_122"></a>fitting, since these tarts were named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual @@ -6224,23 +5689,19 @@ ours made from popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve:</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pineapple Cheese Cake</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pineapple Cheese Cake</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ pounds sieved pot cheese<br /> - 1-inch piece vanilla bean<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, melted<br /> - ½ small box graham crackers, crushed fine<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 2 cups sugar<br /> - 1 small can crushed pineapple, drained<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - ⅓ cup flour<br /> - <!-- Page 123 --><a name="Page_123" - id="Page_123"></a></p> + <p>2½ pounds sieved pot cheese<br > + 1-inch piece vanilla bean<br > + ¼ pound sweet butter, melted<br > + ½ small box graham crackers, crushed fine<br > + 4 eggs<br > + 2 cups sugar<br > + 1 small can crushed pineapple, drained<br > + 2 cups milk<br > + ⅓ cup flour<br > + <!-- Page 123 --><a id="Page_123"></a></p> <p>In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square @@ -6258,32 +5719,26 @@ about five dollars a cake. Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Custard</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Custard</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 eggs, slightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - A dash of pepper or paprika<br /> - 3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - A few drops of onion juice, if desired<br /> + <p>4 eggs, slightly beaten<br > + ½ teaspoon salt<br > + 1 cup milk<br > + A dash of pepper or paprika<br > + 3 tablespoons melted butter<br > + A few drops of onion juice, if desired<br > 4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported)</p> <p>Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake until brown.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Open-faced Cheese Pie</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Open-faced Cheese Pie</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 eggs<br /> - 1 cup sugar<br /> + <p>3 eggs<br > + 1 cup sugar<br > 2 pounds soft smearcase</p> <p>Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake @@ -6294,8 +5749,7 @@ <p>Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has - cheese <!-- Page 124 --><a name="Page_124" - id="Page_124"></a>for a sidekick, according to law. Pioneer + cheese <!-- Page 124 --><a id="Page_124"></a>for a sidekick, according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are common, @@ -6309,10 +5763,7 @@ natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple with its cheese.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie Adorned</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple Pie Adorned</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing @@ -6322,10 +5773,7 @@ fanciful fashion.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie á la + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple Pie á la Cheese</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6334,10 +5782,7 @@ minutes.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-crusty Apple + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese-crusty Apple Pie</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6346,10 +5791,7 @@ bake golden-brown.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Flan au Fromage</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Flan au Fromage</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, @@ -6361,11 +5803,7 @@ parts of flour.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 125 --><a name="Page_125" - id="Page_125"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Christmas Cake + <p><!-- Page 125 --><a id="Page_125"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Christmas Cake Sandwiches</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6374,10 +5812,10 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>A little bit of spice cake<br /></span> <span>A - little bit of cheese,<br /></span> <span>A glass of - cold water,<br /></span> <span>A penny, if you - please.<br /></span> + <span>A little bit of spice cake<br ></span> <span>A + little bit of cheese,<br ></span> <span>A glass of + cold water,<br ></span> <span>A penny, if you + please.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6390,15 +5828,12 @@ serve apple pie with cheese and applejack.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Angelic Camembert</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Angelic Camembert</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert, imported<br /> - 1 cup Anjou dry white wine<br /> - ½ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> + <p>1 ripe Camembert, imported<br > + 1 cup Anjou dry white wine<br > + ½ pound sweet butter, softened<br > 2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs</p> <p>Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and @@ -6427,8 +5862,7 @@ to acquire her hand in marriage.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 126 --><a name="Page_126" - id="Page_126"></a> Another writer has said that "only + <p><!-- Page 126 --><a id="Page_126"></a> Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from early @@ -6436,14 +5870,14 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ai contadini non far sapere</i><br /></span> + <span><i>Ai contadini non far sapere</i><br ></span> <span><i>Quanta è buono it cacio con le - pere</i>.<br /></span> + pere</i>.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Don't let the peasants know<br /></span> - <span>How good are cheese and pears.<br /></span> + <span>Don't let the peasants know<br ></span> + <span>How good are cheese and pears.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6457,8 +5891,8 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Entre la poire et le fromage</i><br /></span> - <span>Between the pear and the cheese.<br /></span> + <span><i>Entre la poire et le fromage</i><br ></span> + <span>Between the pear and the cheese.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6468,7 +5902,7 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>After cheese comes nothing.<br /></span> + <span>After cheese comes nothing.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6478,7 +5912,7 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will - be.<br /></span> + be.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6487,13 +5921,13 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>I will make an end of my dinner; - there's<br /></span> <span>pippins and cheese to - come.<br /></span> + there's<br ></span> <span>pippins and cheese to + come.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> <span class="auth">Shakespeare's <i>Merry Wives of - Windsor</i><br /></span> + Windsor</i><br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6504,8 +5938,7 @@ note when it was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, strawberries, whortleberries (American huckle<!-- Page 127 --> - <a name="Page_127" - id="Page_127"></a>berries) and hard cheese." In modern + <a id="Page_127"></a>berries) and hard cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese @@ -6518,16 +5951,13 @@ Pots of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being the best.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Champagned Roquefort or + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound mellow Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> - A dash cayenne<br /> + <p>½ pound mellow Roquefort<br > + ¼ pound sweet butter, softened<br > + A dash cayenne<br > ¾ cup champagne</p> <p>With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth @@ -6552,8 +5982,7 @@ <p>FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval</p> - <p><!-- Page 128 --><a name="Page_128" - id="Page_128"></a> FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss + <p><!-- Page 128 --><a id="Page_128"></a> FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyère</p> <p>FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse</p> @@ -6567,22 +5996,18 @@ <p>FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 129 --><a name="Page_129" - id="Page_129"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 129 --><a id="Page_129"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/129.gif" - width="450" - height="308" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/129.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 308px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Nine</i> </div> @@ -6594,7 +6019,7 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses - grow.<br /></span> + grow.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -6612,8 +6037,7 @@ <p>The second most popular cheese for <i>au gratin</i> is Italian Romano, and, for an entirely different flavor, Swiss - Sapsago. The <!-- Page 130 --><a name="Page_130" - id="Page_130"></a>French, who gave us this cookery term, use + Sapsago. The <!-- Page 130 --><a id="Page_130"></a>French, who gave us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In America we think of <i>au gratin</i> as grated cheese only, @@ -6621,20 +6045,17 @@ with butter or cheese; as, potatoes <i>au gratin</i>." So let us begin with that.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Potatoes au Gratin</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Potatoes au Gratin</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups diced cooked potatoes<br /> - 2 tablespoons grated onion<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 egg<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> + <p>2 cups diced cooked potatoes<br > + 2 tablespoons grated onion<br > + ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br > + 2 tablespoons butter<br > + ½ cup milk<br > + 1 egg<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper<br > More grated cheese for covering</p> <p>In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, @@ -6647,10 +6068,7 @@ ½ hour.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggs au Gratin</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Eggs au Gratin</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour @@ -6662,33 +6080,26 @@ until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes).</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomatoes au Gratin</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomatoes au Gratin</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, - season <!-- Page 131 --><a name="Page_131" - id="Page_131"></a> with salt, pepper and dots of butter, + season <!-- Page 131 --><a id="Page_131"></a> with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Soup au Gratin</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Onion Soup au Gratin</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 or 5 onions, sliced<br /> - 4 or 5 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 quart stock or canned consommé<br /> - 1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes<br /> - Rounds of toasted French bread<br /> + <p>4 or 5 onions, sliced<br > + 4 or 5 tablespoons butter<br > + 1 quart stock or canned consommé<br > + 1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes<br > + Rounds of toasted French bread<br > 1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese</p> <p>Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until @@ -6720,17 +6131,13 @@ golden makes the best base to pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above.</p> - <p><!-- Page 132 --><a name="Page_132" - id="Page_132"></a> The same cheese toasts are the basis + <p><!-- Page 132 --><a id="Page_132"></a> The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chicken Cheese Soup</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Chicken Cheese Soup</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken @@ -6769,10 +6176,7 @@ </div> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Green Cheese Salad + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Green Cheese Salad Julienne</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6784,11 +6188,7 @@ French dressing.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 133 --><a name="Page_133" - id="Page_133"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Cheese Salad</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 133 --><a id="Page_133"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>American Cheese Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with @@ -6796,10 +6196,7 @@ French dressing.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Nut Salad</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Nut Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats @@ -6808,10 +6205,7 @@ finely grated Sapsago.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brie or Camembert + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Brie or Camembert Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6822,21 +6216,18 @@ isn't creamy enough, mash it with some sweet cream.)</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Mold</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Three-in-One Mold</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ cup cream cheese<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - ½ cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled<br /> - 2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into<br /> - ½ cup boiling water<br /> - Juice of 1 lemon<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups cream, beaten stiff<br /> + <p>¾ cup cream cheese<br > + ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br > + ½ cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled<br > + 2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into<br > + ½ cup boiling water<br > + Juice of 1 lemon<br > + Salt<br > + Pepper<br > + 2 cups cream, beaten stiff<br > ½ cup minced chives</p> <p>Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with @@ -6846,11 +6237,7 @@ lettuce with a little mayonnaise, or plain.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 134 --><a name="Page_134" - id="Page_134"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Salad</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 134 --><a id="Page_134"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Swiss Cheese Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Dice ½ pound of cheese into ½-inch cubes. @@ -6862,10 +6249,7 @@ with the dressing.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rosie's Swiss Breakfast + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad</b></p> <p>Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished @@ -6893,10 +6277,7 @@ is the best cure in the world for the worst hangover."</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gorgonzola and Banana + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Gorgonzola and Banana Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6907,11 +6288,7 @@ banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 135 --><a name="Page_135" - id="Page_135"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Pea Salad</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 135 --><a id="Page_135"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese and Pea Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Cube ½ pound of American Cheddar and mix with a @@ -6921,18 +6298,15 @@ with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped radishes.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple and Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Apple and Cheese Salad</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup chopped pecans<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - Apples, sliced ½-inch thick<br /> - Lettuce leaves<br /> + <p>½ cup cream cheese<br > + 1 cup chopped pecans<br > + Salt and pepper<br > + Apples, sliced ½-inch thick<br > + Lettuce leaves<br > Creamy salad dressing</p> <p>Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple @@ -6940,10 +6314,7 @@ salad dressing.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Cheese Salad + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -6967,11 +6338,7 @@ good on all green salads, but on endive it's something special.</p> - <p><!-- Page 136 --><a name="Page_136" - id="Page_136"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sauce Mornay</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 136 --><a id="Page_136"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sauce Mornay</b></p> <p>Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary achievement in cheese."</p> @@ -6985,10 +6352,7 @@ of the cooking broth is added.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Cheese Sauce</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Plain Cheese Sauce</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white @@ -7017,10 +6381,7 @@ generously over bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the sauce sink in.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parsleyed Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parsleyed Cheese Sauce</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7030,8 +6391,7 @@ over.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 137 --><a name="Page_137" - id="Page_137"></a></p> + <p><!-- Page 137 --><a id="Page_137"></a></p> <div class="cats"> CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES @@ -7043,7 +6403,7 @@ overlooked or crowded out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, Soufflés, etc.</p> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <i>Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks</i></p> @@ -7080,8 +6440,7 @@ </div> <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 138 --><a name="Page_138" - id="Page_138"></a> + <!-- Page 138 --><a id="Page_138"></a> <p>After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, press them together in the form of the @@ -7090,10 +6449,7 @@ water cress or lettuce, moistened with French dressing.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cold Dunking</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cold Dunking</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be @@ -7105,10 +6461,7 @@ all.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Charlotte</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheese Charlotte</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted @@ -7117,10 +6470,7 @@ grated cheese. Bake until golden brown in slow oven.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Straws</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Straws</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, @@ -7131,12 +6481,8 @@ until crisp.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Supa Shetgia</b> - <a name="FNanchor_B_2" - id="FNanchor_B_2"></a> <a href="#Footnote_B_2" + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Supa Shetgia</b> + <a id="FNanchor_B_2"></a> <a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7144,8 +6490,7 @@ little known in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how perfectly - <!-- Page 139 --><a name="Page_139" - id="Page_139"></a> it gives that extra something. The + <!-- Page 139 --><a id="Page_139"></a> it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased</i>.</p> @@ -7160,8 +6505,7 @@ </div> <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_B_2" - id="Footnote_B_2"></a> + <p><a id="Footnote_B_2"></a> <a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> (from <i>Cheese Cookery</i>, by Helmut Ripperger)</p> </div> @@ -7188,10 +6532,7 @@ <p>Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as the French are wont to use more wine in cooking.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pfeffernüsse and + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Pfeffernüsse and Caraway</b></p> <p>The gingery little "pepper nuts," <i>pfeffernüsse</i>, @@ -7199,11 +6540,7 @@ the best accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish of caraway.</p> - <p><!-- Page 140 --><a name="Page_140" - id="Page_140"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Diablotins</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 140 --><a id="Page_140"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Diablotins</b></p> <p>Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated cheese and browned in the oven is a French @@ -7213,27 +6550,21 @@ CHEESE OMELETS </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Omelet</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheddar Omelet</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun to cook, dust over it evenly ½ cup grated - Cheddar.<br /> + Cheddar.<br > (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland - omelet.<br /> - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one.<br /> + omelet.<br > + (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one.<br > (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what - might be called a Wild Omelet.<br /> + might be called a Wild Omelet.<br > Cook as usual. Fold and serve.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (mild)</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7241,10 +6572,7 @@ grated fine, in place of the ½ cup Cheddar.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (full + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (full flavored)</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7254,25 +6582,18 @@ cup evenly, just as the omelet begins to set.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>A Meal-in-One Omelet</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>A Meal-in-One Omelet</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Fry ½ dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to - equal crispness. <!-- Page 141 --><a name="Page_141" - id="Page_141"></a>Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of + equal crispness. <!-- Page 141 --><a id="Page_141"></a>Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1½ tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato and</b></p> + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Tomato and</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh @@ -7280,10 +6601,7 @@ under broiler until cheese melts to a golden brown.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Omelet with Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Omelet with Cheese Sauce</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7299,21 +6617,18 @@ chervil, tarragon and cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning with a salamander.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Spanish Flan—Quesillo</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>FOR THE CARAMEL:<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> - 4 tablespoons water<br /> - <br /> - FOR THE FLAN:<br /> - 4 eggs, beaten separately<br /> - 2 cups hot milk<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> + <p>FOR THE CARAMEL:<br > + ½ cup sugar<br > + 4 tablespoons water<br > + <br > + FOR THE FLAN:<br > + 4 eggs, beaten separately<br > + 2 cups hot milk<br > + ½ cup sugar<br > Salt</p> <p>Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour @@ -7324,11 +6639,7 @@ about ¾ hour.</p> </div> - <p><!-- Page 142 --><a name="Page_142" - id="Page_142"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritto Misto</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 142 --><a id="Page_142"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Italian Fritto Misto</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made @@ -7341,10 +6652,7 @@ mouthful of the mixture.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Polish Piroghs</b> (a + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Polish Piroghs</b> (a pocketful of cheese)</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7368,10 +6676,7 @@ <p>This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.</p> </div> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheesed Mashed + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Cheesed Mashed Potatoes</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7385,11 +6690,7 @@ <p>If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a</p> - <p><!-- Page 143 --><a name="Page_143" - id="Page_143"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sautéed Swiss + <p><!-- Page 143 --><a id="Page_143"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Sautéed Swiss Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7406,26 +6707,22 @@ </div> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 144 --><a name="Page_144" - id="Page_144"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 144 --><a id="Page_144"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/144.gif" - width="450" - height="338" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/144.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 338px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Ten</i> </div> - <h2>Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,<br /> + <h2>Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,<br > Snacks, Spreads and Toasts</h2> <p>In America cheese got its start in country stores in our @@ -7438,8 +6735,7 @@ off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be beat today.</p> - <p><!-- Page 145 --><a name="Page_145" - id="Page_145"></a> At that time Wisconsin still belonged to + <p><!-- Page 145 --><a id="Page_145"></a> At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. When Orton heard @@ -7466,16 +6762,16 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>I am an Irish hunter;<br /></span> <span>I am, I - ain't.<br /></span> <span>I do not hunt for - deer<br /></span> <span>But beer.<br /></span> - <span>Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag.<br /></span> + <span>I am an Irish hunter;<br ></span> <span>I am, I + ain't.<br ></span> <span>I do not hunt for + deer<br ></span> <span>But beer.<br ></span> + <span>Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag.<br ></span> </div> <div class="stanza"> - <span>I do not hunt for fleas<br /></span> <span>But - cheese.<br /></span> <span>Oh, Adolph, bring the free - lunch.<br /></span> + <span>I do not hunt for fleas<br ></span> <span>But + cheese.<br ></span> <span>Oh, Adolph, bring the free + lunch.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -7483,8 +6779,7 @@ coast. In every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger—manly cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden yellow, tangy mellow, always cut - in cubes. <!-- Page 146 --><a name="Page_146" - id="Page_146"></a>Cheese takes the cube form as naturally as + in cubes. <!-- Page 146 --><a id="Page_146"></a>Cheese takes the cube form as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon.</p> <p>On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely @@ -7506,7 +6801,7 @@ and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum up the situation.</p> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>A Alpine Club Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7516,7 +6811,7 @@ chicken or turkey, tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>B Boston Beany, Open-face</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7526,21 +6821,20 @@ broiler until cheese melts and the bacon crisps.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>C Cheeseburgers</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a - nice <!-- Page 147 --><a name="Page_147" - id="Page_147"></a>slice of American Cheddar well covered + nice <!-- Page 147 --><a id="Page_147"></a>slice of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, toasted sandwich buns.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>D Deviled Rye</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7550,7 +6844,7 @@ pimiento.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>E Egg, Open-faced</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7563,7 +6857,7 @@ serve with crisp bacon.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>F French-fried Swiss</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7573,7 +6867,7 @@ browned. This is a specialty of Franche-Comté.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7586,9 +6880,8 @@ of dill pickle.</p> </div> - <p><br /> - <!-- Page 148 --><a name="Page_148" - id="Page_148"></a> <b>H He-man Sandwich, + <p><br > + <!-- Page 148 --><a id="Page_148"></a> <b>H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7598,7 +6891,7 @@ with mustard and a sowing of capers.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>I International Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7610,7 +6903,7 @@ and brown under the broiler.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises</b></p> @@ -7621,7 +6914,7 @@ serve.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>K Kümmelkäse</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7634,7 +6927,7 @@ imported.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7642,8 +6935,7 @@ dressing for ½ hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft Limburger, top with onion and you will have something super-duper—if you like - Limburger. <!-- Page 149 --><a name="Page_149" - id="Page_149"></a></p> + Limburger. <!-- Page 149 --><a id="Page_149"></a></p> <p>When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has quite another character and flavor, so true @@ -7651,7 +6943,7 @@ for the thrill of contrast.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>M Meringue, Open-faced</b> (from the Browns' <i>10,000 Snacks</i>)</p> @@ -7666,7 +6958,7 @@ and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>N Neufchâtel and Honey</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7681,7 +6973,7 @@ the original ambrosia.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>O Oskar's Ham-Cam</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7696,8 +6988,7 @@ mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on the ham as thick as velvet.</p> - <p><!-- Page 150 --><a name="Page_150" - id="Page_150"></a> The Ham-Cam is built up with such + <p><!-- Page 150 --><a id="Page_150"></a> The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and <i>rémoulade</i>," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," "a @@ -7706,7 +6997,7 @@ does credit to Camembert on ham.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>P Pickled Camembert</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7718,7 +7009,7 @@ black.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7731,7 +7022,7 @@ with imported capers, and you'll say it's scrumptious.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>R Roquefort Nut</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7742,7 +7033,7 @@ a mixture thereof.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich</b></p> @@ -7752,8 +7043,7 @@ spread with sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 151 --><a name="Page_151" - id="Page_151"></a> Hickory is preferred for most of the + <p><!-- Page 151 --><a id="Page_151"></a> Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king of smoked @@ -7768,7 +7058,7 @@ cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>T Tangy Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7781,7 +7071,7 @@ of powder, or Dijon for a French touch.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>U Unusual Sandwich—of Flowers, Hay and Clover</b></p> @@ -7796,18 +7086,17 @@ dust lightly with Sapsago.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>V Vegetarian Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with - chopped <!-- Page 152 --><a name="Page_152" - id="Page_152"></a>chives, and anything else in the + chopped <!-- Page 152 --><a id="Page_152"></a>chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms that suits your fancy.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>W Witch's Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7820,7 +7109,7 @@ onions.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>X Xochomilco Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7839,7 +7128,7 @@ sandwich.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7849,14 +7138,13 @@ wheat bread.</p> </div> - <p><br /> + <p><br > <b>Z Zebra</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those - oft-photoed <!-- Page 153 --><a name="Page_153" - id="Page_153"></a>skins in El Morocco. Just alternate + oft-photoed <!-- Page 153 --><a id="Page_153"></a>skins in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra pattern.</p> @@ -7865,10 +7153,7 @@ <p>For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese sandwiches.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Toasted Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Toasted Cheese Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -7897,38 +7182,31 @@ its simple version, that's quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew.</p> - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Newfoundland Toasted Cheese + <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" alt="picture: pointer" style="width: 58px; height: 41px"> <b>Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich</b></p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound grated Cheddar<br /> - 1 egg, well beaten<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> + <p>1 pound grated Cheddar<br > + 1 egg, well beaten<br > + ½ cup milk<br > 1 tablespoon butter</p> <p>Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast.</p> </div> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 154 --><a name="Page_154" - id="Page_154"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 154 --><a id="Page_154"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/154.gif" - width="391" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/154.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 391px; height: 390px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Eleven</i> </div> @@ -7953,8 +7231,7 @@ honey, suit a lot of gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon and thus bring out the - full flavor of the <!-- Page 155 --><a name="Page_155" - id="Page_155"></a>cellared vintages. But professional wine + full flavor of the <!-- Page 155 --><a id="Page_155"></a>cellared vintages. But professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest @@ -7998,13 +7275,12 @@ the go-with wines, according to these matches registered by André Simon in <i>The Art of Good Living:</i></p> - <p><!-- Page 156 --><a name="Page_156" - id="Page_156"></a></p> + <p><!-- Page 156 --><a id="Page_156"></a></p> <div class="blockquot"> - Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port<br /> - White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry<br /> - Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port<br /> + Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port<br > + White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry<br > + Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port<br > Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port </div> @@ -8044,8 +7320,7 @@ port, Cider and the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and hard cider with their accompanying - New <!-- Page 157 --><a name="Page_157" - id="Page_157"></a>York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of + New <!-- Page 157 --><a id="Page_157"></a>York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque.</p> @@ -8058,22 +7333,18 @@ no less than vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 158 --><a name="Page_158" - id="Page_158"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 158 --><a id="Page_158"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/158.gif" - width="450" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/158.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 450px; height: 390px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> + <i>Chapter<br > Twelve</i> </div> @@ -8092,8 +7363,7 @@ <p>The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are handy, cheap and nasty. They are available every <!-- Page 159 --> - <a name="Page_159" - id="Page_159"></a>where and some people even like them. So + <a id="Page_159"></a>where and some people even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of their existence. I have done so—and now, an unfond farewell to them.</p> @@ -8111,22 +7381,21 @@ contemplation:</p> <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese board layout" - cellpadding="4"> + <table style="padding: 4px;"> <tr> - <td align="left">CARAWAY BRICK</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">CARAWAY BRICK</td> - <td align="left">SELECT BRICK</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SELECT BRICK</td> - <td align="left">EDAM</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">EDAM</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">WISCONSIN SWISS</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">WISCONSIN SWISS</td> - <td align="left">LONGHORN AMERICAN</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">LONGHORN AMERICAN</td> - <td align="left">SHEFFORD</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SHEFFORD</td> </tr> </table> </div> @@ -8144,116 +7413,114 @@ boards; play the teams against each other.</p> <div class="center"> - <table summary="The All-American Champs" - cellpadding="2"> + <table style="padding: 2px;"> <tr> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>The All-American Champs</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>The All-American Champs</b></td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">NEW YORK COON</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">NEW YORK COON</td> - <td align="left">PHILADELPHIA CREAM</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">PHILADELPHIA CREAM</td> - <td align="left">OHIO LIEDERKRANZ</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">OHIO LIEDERKRANZ</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">VERMONT SAGE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">VERMONT SAGE</td> - <td align="left">KENTUCKY TRAPPIST</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">KENTUCKY TRAPPIST</td> - <td align="left">WISCONSIN LIMBURGER</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">WISCONSIN LIMBURGER</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="right">CALIFORNIA JACK</td> + <td style="text-align: right;">CALIFORNIA JACK</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left">PINEAPPLE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">PINEAPPLE</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="right">MINNESOTA BLUE</td> + <td style="text-align: right;">MINNESOTA BLUE</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left">BRICK</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">BRICK</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="center">TILLAMOOK</td> + <td style="text-align: center;">TILLAMOOK</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> </tr> </table> - <p><!-- Page 160 --><a name="Page_160" - id="Page_160"></a></p> + <p><!-- Page 160 --><a id="Page_160"></a></p> <p class="center"><b>VS.</b></p> - <table summary="The European Giants" - cellpadding="4"> + <table style="padding: 4px;"> <tr> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left"><b>The European Giants</b></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"><b>The European Giants</b></td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">PORTUGUESE TRAZ-</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">PORTUGUESE TRAZ-</td> - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">DUTCH GOUDA</td> - <td align="left">ITALIAN PARMESAN</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN PARMESAN</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left"> OS-MONTES</td> + <td style="text-align: left;"> OS-MONTES</td> - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> - <td align="left">SWISS EMMENTALER</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS EMMENTALER</td> </tr> <tr> - <td colspan="3" align="left">YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3"> - <table summary="more cheese" - width="80%" - cellpadding="2"> + <table style="width: 80%;"> <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left">DANISH BLUE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">DANISH BLUE</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">GERMAN MÜNSTER</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">GERMAN MÜNSTER</td> - <td align="left"></td> + <td style="text-align: left;"></td> - <td align="left">GREEK FETA</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">GREEK FETA</td> </tr> <tr> - <td colspan="3" - align="center">HABLÉ</td> + <td style="text-align: center;">HABLÉ</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> </tr> </table> </td> @@ -8290,9 +7557,8 @@ the imprint of its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so - called because the the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a - pole, look as though they <!-- Page 161 --><a name="Page_161" - id="Page_161"></a> were sitting in a saddle—cheese on + called because the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a + pole, look as though they <!-- Page 161 --><a id="Page_161"></a> were sitting in a saddle—cheese on horseback, or "<i>cacio a cavallo</i>." Then we ring in Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic @@ -8319,7 +7585,7 @@ <p>Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if - <i>.you</i> like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky + you like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of different @@ -8335,8 +7601,7 @@ filled with crushed red-pepper pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of curry, - capers, chives (sliced, not <!-- Page 162 --><a name="Page_162" - id="Page_162"></a>chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves, + capers, chives (sliced, not <!-- Page 162 --><a id="Page_162"></a>chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats.</p> @@ -8351,51 +7616,52 @@ samples and the lower one carried the rest, as follows:</p> <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese tasting Lazy Lou" - cellpadding="8"> + <table style="padding: 8px;"> <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH CHEDDAR</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH CHEDDAR</td> - <td align="left">CHESHIRE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">CHESHIRE</td> - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - <td align="left">CANADIAN CHEDDAR (rum flavored)</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">CANADIAN CHEDDAR (rum flavored)</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">FRENCH MÜNSTER</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH MÜNSTER</td> - <td align="left">FRENCH BRIE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH BRIE</td> - <td align="left">FRENCH CAMEMBERT</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH CAMEMBERT</td> - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">SWISS SAPSAGO</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS SAPSAGO</td> - <td align="left">SWISS GRUYERE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS GRUYERE</td> - <td align="left">SWISS EDAM</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">SWISS EDAM</td> - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">DUTCH GOUDA</td> </tr> <tr> - <td align="left">ITALIAN PROVOLONE</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN PROVOLONE</td> - <td align="left">CZECH OSTIEPKI</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">CZECH OSTIEPKI</td> - <td align="left">ITALIAN GORGONZOLA</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">ITALIAN GORGONZOLA</td> - <td align="left">NORWEGIAN GJETOST</td> + <td style="text-align: left;">NORWEGIAN GJETOST</td> </tr> <tr> - <td colspan="4" - align="center">HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER</td> + <td style="text-align: center;">HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER</td> + <td></td> + <td></td> + <td></td> </tr> </table> </div> @@ -8415,8 +7681,7 @@ <p>Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a - bridegroom <!-- Page 163 --><a name="Page_163" - id="Page_163"></a> in waxed white paper and looked as smooth + bridegroom <!-- Page 163 --><a id="Page_163"></a> in waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally.</p> @@ -8457,8 +7722,7 @@ Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet.</p> - <p><!-- Page 164 --><a name="Page_164" - id="Page_164"></a> The second Italian classic was + <p><!-- Page 164 --><a id="Page_164"></a> The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the @@ -8502,8 +7766,7 @@ couldn't melt it with anything less than a blowtorch.</p> <p>To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the - <!-- Page 165 --><a name="Page_165" - id="Page_165"></a> Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine, + <!-- Page 165 --><a id="Page_165"></a> Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. We @@ -8515,18 +7778,14 @@ Garniert.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 166 --><a name="Page_166" - id="Page_166"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 166 --><a id="Page_166"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/166.gif" - width="450" - height="290" - alt="No. 4 Cheese Inc." /> + <img src="images/166.gif" alt="No. 4 Cheese Inc." style="width: 450px; height: 290px"> </div> <div class="rightalign"> @@ -8539,16 +7798,15 @@ with any further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk.</i></p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_A" - id="AtoZ_A"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_A"></a><br > A</h3> - <p><b>Aberdeen</b><br /> + <p><b>Aberdeen</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>Soft; creamy mellow.</p> - <p><b>Abertam</b><br /> + <p><b>Abertam</b><br > <i>Bohemia</i> <i>(Made near Carlsbad</i>)</p> <p>Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its @@ -8558,13 +7816,12 @@ <p><b>Acidophilus</b> <i>see</i> Saint-Ivel.</p> - <p><b>Aettekees</b><br /> + <p><b>Aettekees</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>November to May—winter-made and eaten.</p> - <p><!-- Page 167 --><a name="Page_167" - id="Page_167"></a> <b>Affiné, Carré</b> + <p><!-- Page 167 --><a id="Page_167"></a> <b>Affiné, Carré</b> <i>see</i> Ancien Impérial.</p> <p><b>Affumicata, Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella.</p> @@ -8575,7 +7832,7 @@ <p><b>Agricultural school cheeses</b> <i>see</i> College-educated.</p> - <p><b>Aiguilles, Fromage d'</b><br /> + <p><b>Aiguilles, Fromage d'</b><br > <i>Alpine France</i></p> <p>Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of @@ -8584,7 +7841,7 @@ <p><b>Aizy, Cendrée d'</b> <i>see</i> Cendrée.</p> - <p><b>Ajacilo, Ajaccio</b><br /> + <p><b>Ajacilo, Ajaccio</b><br > <i>Corsica</i></p> <p>Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of @@ -8599,29 +7856,28 @@ <p><b>à la Rachette</b> <i>see</i> Bagnes.</p> - <p><b>Albini</b><br /> + <p><b>Albini</b><br > <i>Northern Italy</i></p> <p>Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, pleasant-tasting table cheese.</p> - <p><b>Albula</b><br /> + <p><b>Albula</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.</p> - <p><b>Alderney</b><br /> + <p><b>Alderney</b><br > <i>Channel Islands</i></p> <p>The French, who are fond of this special product of the very - special breed of cattle <!-- Page 168 --><a name="Page_168" - id="Page_168"></a> named after the Channel Island of + special breed of cattle <!-- Page 168 --><a id="Page_168"></a> named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate it phonetically—Fromage d'Aurigny.</p> - <p><b>Alemtejo</b><br /> + <p><b>Alemtejo</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in @@ -8644,21 +7900,20 @@ <p><b>Alfalfa</b> <i>see</i> Sage.</p> - <p><b>Alise Saint-Reine</b><br /> + <p><b>Alise Saint-Reine</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; summer-made.</p> <p><b>Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, - or Allgäuer Emmentaler</b><br /> + or Allgäuer Emmentaler</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse <!-- Page 169 --> - <a name="Page_169" - id="Page_169"></a>and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, + <a id="Page_169"></a>and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the @@ -8673,7 +7928,7 @@ chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their prime.</p> - <p><b>Allgäuer Rahmkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Allgäuer Rahmkäse</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder @@ -8689,37 +7944,36 @@ <p><b>Alpe</b> <i>see</i> Fiore di Alpe.</p> - <p><b>Al Pepe</b><br /> + <p><b>Al Pepe</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (<i>see</i>).</p> - <p><!-- Page 170 --><a name="Page_170" - id="Page_170"></a> <b>Alpes</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 170 --><a id="Page_170"></a> <b>Alpes</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Similar to Bel Paese.</p> - <p><b>Alpestra</b><br /> + <p><b>Alpestra</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.</p> - <p><b>Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon</b><br /> + <p><b>Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap.</p> - <p><b>Alpestro</b><br /> + <p><b>Alpestro</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.</p> - <p><b>Alpin or Clérimbert</b><br /> + <p><b>Alpin or Clérimbert</b><br > <i>Alpine France</i></p> <p>The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two @@ -8728,33 +7982,32 @@ turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks.</p> - <p><b>Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft; goat; small and flat—one to two inches thick, eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.</p> - <p><b>Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.</p> <p><b>Altsohl</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - <p><b>Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert</b><br /> + <p><b>Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert</b><br > <i>Limagne, Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the Cantal—Fourme-La Tome tribe.</p> - <p><b>American, American Cheddar</b><br /> + <p><b>American, American Cheddar</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wiscon <!-- Page 171 --> - <a name="Page_171" - id="Page_171"></a>sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to + <a id="Page_171"></a>sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called @@ -8766,29 +8019,29 @@ of time. <i>See</i> Cheddar states and Cheddar types in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Americano Romano</b><br /> + <p><b>Americano Romano</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Hard; brittle; sharp.</p> - <p><b>Amou</b><br /> + <p><b>Amou</b><br > <i>Béarn, France</i></p> <p>Winter cheese, October to May.</p> - <p><b>Anatolian</b><br /> + <p><b>Anatolian</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp.</p> - <p><b>Anchovy Links</b><br /> + <p><b>Anchovy Links</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy links.</p> - <p><b>Ancien Impérial</b><br /> + <p><b>Ancien Impérial</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like @@ -8801,10 +8054,9 @@ doesn't take long—about the same time as Neufchâtel.</p> - <p><!-- Page 172 --><a name="Page_172" - id="Page_172"></a><b>Ancona</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> + <p><!-- Page 172 --><a id="Page_172"></a><b>Ancona</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - <p><b>Andean</b><br /> + <p><b>Andean</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is @@ -8814,7 +8066,7 @@ (Description given in <i>Buen Provecho!</i> by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.)</p> - <p><b>Andechs</b><br /> + <p><b>Andechs</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill @@ -8822,12 +8074,12 @@ dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes.</p> - <p><b>Antwerp</b><br /> + <p><b>Antwerp</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.</p> - <p><b>Appenzeller</b><br /> + <p><b>Appenzeller</b><br > <i>Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden</i></p> <p>Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound @@ -8837,33 +8089,32 @@ brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.</p> - <p><b>Appetitost</b><br /> + <p><b>Appetitost</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in which it is made.</p> - <p><b>Appetost</b><br /> + <p><b>Appetost</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.</p> - <p><!-- Page 173 --><a name="Page_173" - id="Page_173"></a><b>Apple</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> + <p><!-- Page 173 --><a id="Page_173"></a><b>Apple</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.</p> - <p><b>Arber</b><br /> + <p><b>Arber</b><br > <i>Bohemia</i></p> <p>Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.</p> - <p><b>Argentine</b><br /> + <p><b>Argentine</b><br > <i>Argentina</i></p> <p>Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of @@ -8871,7 +8122,7 @@ Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding.</p> - <p><b>Armavir</b><br /> + <p><b>Armavir</b><br > <i>Western Caucasus</i></p> <p>Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring @@ -8880,14 +8131,14 @@ <p><b>Arnauten</b> <i>see</i> Travnik.</p> - <p><b>Arovature</b><br /> + <p><b>Arovature</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Water-buffalo milk.</p> <p><b>Arras, Coeurs d'</b> <i>see</i> Coeurs.</p> - <p><b>Arrigny</b><br /> + <p><b>Arrigny</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products @@ -8900,8 +8151,7 @@ <p><b>Artificial Dessert Cheese</b></p> <p>In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese - was made by mixing <!-- Page 174 --><a name="Page_174" - id="Page_174"></a> one quart of cream with two of milk and + was made by mixing <!-- Page 174 --><a id="Page_174"></a> one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured @@ -8910,19 +8160,19 @@ rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.</p> - <p><b>Asadero, or Oaxaca</b><br /> + <p><b>Asadero, or Oaxaca</b><br > <i>Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico</i></p> <p>White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."</p> - <p><b>Asco</b><br /> + <p><b>Asco</b><br > <i>Corsica, France</i></p> <p>Made only in the winter season, October to May.</p> - <p><b>Asiago I, II and III</b><br /> + <p><b>Asiago I, II and III</b><br > <i>Vicenza, Italy</i></p> <p>Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on @@ -8938,19 +8188,18 @@ <p>III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's fine for grating.</p> - <p><b>Asin, or Water cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Asin, or Water cheese</b><br > <i>Northern Italy</i></p> <p>Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert - <!-- Page 175 --><a name="Page_175" - id="Page_175"></a> cheese, frequently eaten with honey and + <!-- Page 175 --><a id="Page_175"></a> cheese, frequently eaten with honey and fruit.</p> - <p><b>Au Cumin</b><br /> + <p><b>Au Cumin</b><br > <i>see</i> Münster.</p> - <p><b>Au Fenouil</b><br /> + <p><b>Au Fenouil</b><br > <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> <p><b>Au Foin and de Foin</b></p> @@ -8958,7 +8207,7 @@ <p>A style of ripening "on the hay." <i>See</i> Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage de Foin.</p> - <p><b>Augelot</b><br /> + <p><b>Augelot</b><br > <i>Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type.</p> @@ -8969,19 +8218,19 @@ <p><b>Aurillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - <p><b>Aurore and Triple Aurore</b><br /> + <p><b>Aurore and Triple Aurore</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Made and eaten all year.</p> - <p><b>Australian and New Zealand</b><br /> + <p><b>Australian and New Zealand</b><br > <i>Australia and New Zealand</i></p> <p>Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed.</p> - <p><b>Autun</b><br /> + <p><b>Autun</b><br > <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> <p>Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another @@ -8994,14 +8243,13 @@ <p><b>Avesnes, Boulette d'</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - <p><b>Aydes, les</b><br /> + <p><b>Aydes, les</b><br > <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> <p>Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June.</p> - <p><!-- Page 176 --><a name="Page_176" - id="Page_176"></a> <b>Azeitão, Queijo do</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 176 --><a id="Page_176"></a> <b>Azeitão, Queijo do</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative @@ -9009,28 +8257,27 @@ the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them.</p> - <p><b>Azeitoso</b><br /> + <p><b>Azeitoso</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.</p> - <p><b>Azuldoch Mountain</b><br /> + <p><b>Azuldoch Mountain</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Mild and mellow mountain product.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_B" - id="AtoZ_B"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_B"></a><br > B</h3> - <p><b>Backsteiner</b><br /> + <p><b>Backsteiner</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. Brick.</p> - <p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette</b><br /> + <p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Not only hard but very hard, named from <i>racler</i>, @@ -9039,7 +8286,7 @@ off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.</p> - <p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br /> + <p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan @@ -9052,8 +8299,7 @@ pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 177 --><a name="Page_177" - id="Page_177"></a> <b>Ball</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 177 --><a id="Page_177"></a> <b>Ball</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of @@ -9067,7 +8313,7 @@ <p>English name for Edam.</p> - <p><b>Banbury</b><br /> + <p><b>Banbury</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of @@ -9076,17 +8322,17 @@ sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today.</p> - <p><b>Banick</b><br /> + <p><b>Banick</b><br > <i>Armenia</i></p> <p>White and sweet.</p> - <p><b>Banjaluka</b><br /> + <p><b>Banjaluka</b><br > <i>Bosnia</i></p> <p>Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.</p> - <p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br /> + <p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br > <i>Provence, France,</i></p> <p>Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the @@ -9095,22 +8341,21 @@ with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green leaves.</p> - <p><b>Bar cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Bar cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of America's cheese industry.</p> - <p><b>Barbacena</b><br /> + <p><b>Barbacena</b><br > <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> <p>Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading cheese state of Brazil.</p> - <p><!-- Page 178 --><a name="Page_178" - id="Page_178"></a> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de - Troyes</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 178 --><a id="Page_178"></a> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de + Troyes</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six @@ -9123,24 +8368,24 @@ a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in summer they are often sold fresh.</p> - <p><b>Barboux</b><br /> + <p><b>Barboux</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft.</p> - <p><b>Baronet</b><br /> + <p><b>Baronet</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A natural product, mild and mellow.</p> - <p><b>Barron</b><br /> + <p><b>Barron</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft.</p> <p><b>Bassillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p> - <p><b>Bath</b><br /> + <p><b>Bath</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the @@ -9149,7 +8394,7 @@ eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Battelmatt</b><br /> + <p><b>Battelmatt</b><br > <i>Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western Austria</i></p> @@ -9158,11 +8403,10 @@ high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly—in four months — - <!-- Page 179 --><a name="Page_179" - id="Page_179"></a> and is somewhat softer, but has the same + <!-- Page 179 --><a id="Page_179"></a> and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.</p> - <p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br /> + <p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br > <i>Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia</i></p> <p>Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain @@ -9174,7 +8418,7 @@ <p><b>Bavarian Beer cheese</b> <i>see</i> Bayrischer Bierkäse.</p> - <p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br /> + <p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian @@ -9186,13 +8430,13 @@ <p><b>Bayonne</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bayonne.</p> - <p><b>Bayrischer Bierkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Bayrischer Bierkäse</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, but to dunk in it.</p> - <p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br > <i>Tibet</i></p> <p>Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung @@ -9201,7 +8445,7 @@ <p><b>Beagues</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - <p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br /> + <p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br > <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> <p>Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental @@ -9209,28 +8453,27 @@ Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet.</p> - <p><!-- Page 180 --><a name="Page_180" - id="Page_180"></a> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i> + <p><!-- Page 180 --><a id="Page_180"></a> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i> Chevretons.</p> - <p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> + <p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June.</p> - <p><b>Beaupré de Roybon</b><br /> + <p><b>Beaupré de Roybon</b><br > <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> <p>A winter specialty made from November to April.</p> - <p><b>Beckenried</b><br /> + <p><b>Beckenried</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A good mountain cheese from goat milk.</p> - <p><b>Beer cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Beer cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is @@ -9242,13 +8485,13 @@ malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than eaten.</p> - <p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br /> + <p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br > <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> <p>This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.</p> - <p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a @@ -9256,18 +8499,17 @@ somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill)</p> - <p><b>Belarno</b><br /> + <p><b>Belarno</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.</p> - <p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br /> + <p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded - by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><a name="Page_181" - id="Page_181"></a> to undergo fermentation, which takes + by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><a id="Page_181"></a> to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly @@ -9278,7 +8520,7 @@ <p><b>Beli Sir</b> <i>see</i> Domaci.</p> - <p><b>Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br /> + <p><b>Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated @@ -9298,8 +8540,7 @@ There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around.</p> - <p><!-- Page 182 --><a name="Page_182" - id="Page_182"></a> <b>Bel Paese</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 182 --><a id="Page_182"></a> <b>Bel Paese</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p><i>See under</i> <a href="#Page_17">Foreign Greats, Chapter @@ -9308,7 +8549,7 @@ American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original.</p> - <p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br /> + <p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and @@ -9316,7 +8557,7 @@ <p><b>Bergkäse</b> <i>see</i> Allgäuer.</p> - <p><b>Bergquara</b><br /> + <p><b>Bergquara</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. @@ -9324,12 +8565,12 @@ fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century.</p> - <p><b>Berkeley</b><br /> + <p><b>Berkeley</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.</p> - <p><b>Berliner Kuhkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Berliner Kuhkäse</b><br > <i>Berlin, Germany</i></p> <p>Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. @@ -9337,31 +8578,30 @@ and that's about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway.</p> - <p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br /> + <p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for flavor. Cured for two months.</p> - <p><b>Berques</b><br /> + <p><b>Berques</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Made of skim milk.</p> <p><b>Berry Rennet</b> <i>see</i> Withania.</p> - <p><b>Bessay, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Bessay, le</b><br > <i>Bourbonnais, France</i></p> <p>Soft, mild, and creamy.</p> - <p><!-- Page 183 --><a name="Page_183" - id="Page_183"></a> <b>Bexhill</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 183 --><a id="Page_183"></a> <b>Bexhill</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.</p> - <p><b>Bierkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Bierkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are @@ -9371,19 +8611,19 @@ <i>echt Deutsche</i> American spots such as Milwaukee and Hoboken.</p> - <p><b>Bifrost</b><br /> + <p><b>Bifrost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4¼-ounce package.</p> - <p><b>Binn</b><br /> + <p><b>Binn</b><br > <i>Wallis, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis.</p> - <p><b>Bitto</b><br /> + <p><b>Bitto</b><br > <i>Northern Italy</i></p> <p>Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really @@ -9396,12 +8636,12 @@ <p><b>Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc I and II.</p> - <p><b>Bleu</b><br /> + <p><b>Bleu</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.</p> - <p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br /> + <p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and @@ -9409,27 +8649,26 @@ the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille.</p> - <p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br /> + <p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br > <i>Limousin, France</i></p> <p>Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May.</p> - <p><!-- Page 184 --><a name="Page_184" - id="Page_184"></a> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 184 --><a id="Page_184"></a> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century ago, in 1854.</p> - <p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br /> + <p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br > <i>Lower Limousin</i></p> <p>Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin.</p> - <p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br /> + <p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province @@ -9446,19 +8685,19 @@ <p>The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong to, such as blind Swiss.</p> - <p><b>Block Edam</b><br /> + <p><b>Block Edam</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of Edam.</p> - <p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br /> + <p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum.</p> - <p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br /> + <p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Sour-milker.</p> @@ -9471,22 +8710,21 @@ <p><b>Blue, Jura</b> <i>see</i> Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.</p> - <p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br /> + <p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>One of the modern American process sausages.</p> - <p><!-- Page 185 --><a name="Page_185" - id="Page_185"></a> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i> + <p><!-- Page 185 --><a id="Page_185"></a> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i> Minnesota.</p> - <p><b>Blue Moon</b><br /> + <p><b>Blue Moon</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A process product.</p> <p><b>Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double - Dorset</b><br /> + Dorset</b><br > <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> <p>A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make @@ -9498,7 +8736,7 @@ is different from all other cheese molds and has a different action.</p> - <p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br /> + <p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Sharp and smoky specialty.</p> @@ -9507,7 +8745,7 @@ <p><b>Boîte</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Boîte.</p> - <p><b>Bombay</b><br /> + <p><b>Bombay</b><br > <i>India</i></p> <p>Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in @@ -9515,7 +8753,7 @@ <p><b>Bondes</b> <i>see</i> Bondon de Neufchâtel.</p> - <p><b>Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes</b><br /> + <p><b>Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Nicknamed <i>Bonde à tout bien</i>, from resemblance @@ -9523,54 +8761,53 @@ loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar.</p> - <p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br /> + <p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to last up to ten days.</p> - <p><!-- Page 186 --><a name="Page_186" - id="Page_186"></a> <b>Bondost</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 186 --><a id="Page_186"></a> <b>Bondost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost in Norway.</p> - <p><b>Bond Ost</b><br /> + <p><b>Bond Ost</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin.</p> - <p><b>Bon Larron</b><br /> + <p><b>Bon Larron</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Romantically named "the penitent thief."</p> - <p><b>Borden's</b><br /> + <p><b>Borden's</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the leader.</p> - <p><b>Borelli</b><br /> + <p><b>Borelli</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A small water-buffalo cheese.</p> - <p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br /> + <p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br > <i>Provence, France</i></p> <p>A winter product, December, January, February and March only.</p> - <p><b>Boudanne</b><br /> + <p><b>Boudanne</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months.</p> - <p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br /> + <p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the @@ -9578,35 +8815,34 @@ <p><b>Bougon Lamothe</b> <i>see</i> Lamothe.</p> - <p><b>Bouillé, la</b><br /> + <p><b>Bouillé, la</b><br > <i>Normandy France</i></p> <p>One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In season October to May.</p> - <p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br /> + <p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it.</p> <p><b>Boulette d'Avesnes</b>, or <b>Boulette de - Cambrai</b><br /> + Cambrai</b><br > <i>Flanders, France</i></p> <p>Made from November to May, eaten all year.</p> - <p><b>Bourgain</b><br /> + <p><b>Bourgain</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed locally.</p> - <p><!-- Page 187 --><a name="Page_187" - id="Page_187"></a> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits + <p><!-- Page 187 --><a id="Page_187"></a> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits Bourgognes.</p> - <p><b>Box</b><br /> + <p><b>Box</b><br > <i>Württemberg, Germany</i></p> <p>Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and @@ -9623,7 +8859,7 @@ Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant.</p> - <p><b>Bra No. I</b><br /> + <p><b>Bra No. I</b><br > <i>Piedmont, Italy</i></p> <p>Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches @@ -9631,13 +8867,13 @@ nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra.</p> - <p><b>Bra No. II</b><br /> + <p><b>Bra No. II</b><br > <i>Turin and Cuneo, Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine.</p> - <p><b>Brand or Brandkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Brand or Brandkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. @@ -9649,13 +8885,12 @@ <p><b>Brandy</b> <i>see</i> Caledonian, Cream.</p> - <p><!-- Page 188 --><a name="Page_188" - id="Page_188"></a> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 188 --><a id="Page_188"></a> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.</p> - <p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br /> + <p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Described by Richard Wyndham in <i>Wine and Food</i> @@ -9666,14 +8901,14 @@ the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be unique among cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Bratkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Bratkäse</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on toast.</p> <p><b>Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other - names</b><br /> + names</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for @@ -9681,34 +8916,33 @@ Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals.</p> - <p><b>Breakstone</b><br /> + <p><b>Breakstone</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.</p> - <p><b>Brésegaut</b><br /> + <p><b>Brésegaut</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, white.</p> - <p><b>Breslau</b><br /> + <p><b>Breslau</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A proud Prussian dessert cheese.</p> <p><b>Bressans</b> <i>see</i> les Petits.</p> - <p><b>Bresse</b><br /> + <p><b>Bresse</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Lightly cooked.</p> <p><b>Bretagne</b> <i>see</i> Montauban.</p> - <p><!-- Page 189 --><a name="Page_189" - id="Page_189"></a> <b>Brevine</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 189 --><a id="Page_189"></a> <b>Brevine</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Emmentaler type.</p> @@ -9718,7 +8952,7 @@ <p><b>Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Brickbat</b><br /> + <p><b>Brickbat</b><br > <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> <p>A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the @@ -9726,7 +8960,7 @@ ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton.</p> - <p><b>Bricotta</b><br /> + <p><b>Bricotta</b><br > <i>Corsica</i></p> <p>Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and @@ -9735,7 +8969,7 @@ <p><b>Brie</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>; <i>also see</i> Cendré and Coulommiers.</p> - <p><b>Brie Façon</b><br /> + <p><b>Brie Façon</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of @@ -9747,25 +8981,24 @@ <p><i>see</i> Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France.</p> - <p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br /> + <p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to May.</p> - <p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br /> + <p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>This Brie <i>véritable</i> is made not only in the seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. - <!-- Page 190 --><a name="Page_190" - id="Page_190"></a>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as + <!-- Page 190 --><a id="Page_190"></a>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.</p> - <p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br /> + <p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, and available all year. Although the author of @@ -9774,12 +9007,12 @@ (<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_84">Chapter 6</a>), this savory Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.</p> - <p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br /> + <p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.</p> - <p><b>Brindza</b><br /> + <p><b>Brindza</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort @@ -9791,14 +9024,14 @@ <p><b>Brine</b> <i>see</i> Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, Brina Dubreala, Briney.</p> - <p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br /> + <p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br > <i>Syria</i></p> <p>Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type.</p> - <p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br /> + <p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br > <i>Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains</i></p> <p>Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, @@ -9809,11 +9042,10 @@ <p><b>Brioler</b> <i>see</i> Westphalia.</p> - <p><!-- Page 191 --><a name="Page_191" - id="Page_191"></a> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i> + <p><!-- Page 191 --><a id="Page_191"></a> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i> Providence</p> - <p><b>Briqueton</b><br /> + <p><b>Briqueton</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the @@ -9824,12 +9056,12 @@ <p><b>Brittle</b> <i>see</i> Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.</p> - <p><b>Brizecon</b><br /> + <p><b>Brizecon</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.</p> - <p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br /> + <p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br > <i>Corsica, France</i></p> <p>Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first @@ -9838,53 +9070,52 @@ Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.</p> - <p><b>Broodkaas</b><br /> + <p><b>Broodkaas</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Hard, flat, nutty.</p> - <p><b>Brousses de la Vézubie, les</b><br /> + <p><b>Brousses de la Vézubie, les</b><br > <i>Nice, France</i></p> <p>Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie.</p> - <p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br /> + <p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal districts.</p> - <p><b>Budapest</b><br /> + <p><b>Budapest</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and abroad in Vienna.</p> - <p><!-- Page 192 --><a name="Page_192" - id="Page_192"></a> <b>Buderich</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 192 --><a id="Page_192"></a> <b>Buderich</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A specialty in Dusseldorf.</p> - <p><b>Bulle</b><br /> + <p><b>Bulle</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A Swiss-Gruyère.</p> - <p><b>Bundost</b><br /> + <p><b>Bundost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Semihard; mellow; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Burgundy</b><br /> + <p><b>Burgundy</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully together.</p> - <p><b>Bushman</b><br /> + <p><b>Bushman</b><br > <i>Australia</i></p> <p>Semihard; yellow; tangy.</p> @@ -9894,21 +9125,20 @@ <p><b>"Butter," Serbian</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> - <p><b>Buttermilk</b><br /> + <p><b>Buttermilk</b><br > <i>U.S. & Europe</i></p> <p>Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_C" - id="AtoZ_C"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_C"></a><br > C</h3> - <p><b>Cabeçou, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Cabeçou, le</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Small; goat; from Maurs.</p> - <p><b>Cabrillon</b><br /> + <p><b>Cabrillon</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister @@ -9923,15 +9153,14 @@ sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to November.</p> - <p><b>Caciocavallo</b><br /> + <p><b>Caciocavallo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><!-- Page 193 --><a name="Page_193" - id="Page_193"></a> <b>Caciocavallo Siciliano</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 193 --><a id="Page_193"></a> <b>Caciocavallo Siciliano</b><br > <i>Sicily, also in U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole @@ -9939,7 +9168,7 @@ Weight between 17½ and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating.</p> - <p><b>Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta</b><br /> + <p><b>Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; @@ -9949,7 +9178,7 @@ <p><b>Cacio Romano</b> <i>see</i> Chiavari.</p> - <p><b>Caerphilly</b><br /> + <p><b>Caerphilly</b><br > <i>Wales and England—Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire</i></p> @@ -9961,7 +9190,7 @@ it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Caillebottes (Curds)</b><br /> + <p><b>Caillebottes (Curds)</b><br > <i>France—Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée</i></p> @@ -9975,29 +9204,28 @@ <p><b>Caille de Poitiers</b> <i>see</i> Petits pots.</p> - <p><b>Caille de Habas</b><br /> + <p><b>Caille de Habas</b><br > <i>Gascony, France</i></p> <p>Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.</p> - <p><!-- Page 194 --><a name="Page_194" - id="Page_194"></a> <b>Cajassou</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 194 --><a id="Page_194"></a> <b>Cajassou</b><br > <i>Périgord, France</i></p> <p>A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.</p> - <p><b>Calabrian</b><br /> + <p><b>Calabrian</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo.</p> - <p><b>Calcagno</b><br /> + <p><b>Calcagno</b><br > <i>Sicily</i></p> <p>Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.</p> - <p><b>Caledonian Cream</b><br /> + <p><b>Caledonian Cream</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in @@ -10006,20 +9234,20 @@ juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."</p> - <p><b>Calvados</b><br /> + <p><b>Calvados</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same province.</p> - <p><b>Calvenzano</b><br /> + <p><b>Calvenzano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.</p> <p><b>Cambrai</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - <p><b>Cambridge, or York</b><br /> + <p><b>Cambridge, or York</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one @@ -10029,28 +9257,27 @@ <p><b>Camembert</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>"Camembert"</b><br /> + <p><b>"Camembert"</b><br > <i>Germany, U.S. & elsewhere</i></p> <p>A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert <i>véritable</i> of Normandy.</p> - <p><b>Camosun</b><br /> + <p><b>Camosun</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd - is pressed in <!-- Page 195 --><a name="Page_195" - id="Page_195"></a>hoops, cheese is salted in brine for + is pressed in <!-- Page 195 --><a id="Page_195"></a>hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.</p> - <p><b>Canadian Club</b><br /> + <p><b>Canadian Club</b><br > <i>see</i> Cheddar Club.</p> <p><b>Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" - de fromage tres fort</b><br /> + de fromage tres fort</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and @@ -10059,7 +9286,7 @@ the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.</p> - <p><b>Canestrato</b><br /> + <p><b>Canestrato</b><br > <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one @@ -10068,7 +9295,7 @@ imitated by and for Italian settlers.</p> <p><b>Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; - also Fourme and La Tome.</b><br /> + also Fourme and La Tome.</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored @@ -10079,24 +9306,23 @@ six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.</p> - <p><b>Capitanata</b><br /> + <p><b>Capitanata</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Sheep.</p> - <p><b>Caprian</b><br /> + <p><b>Caprian</b><br > <i>Capri, Italy</i></p> <p>Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, and tangy as a buck.</p> - <p><!-- Page 196 --><a name="Page_196" - id="Page_196"></a> <b>Caprino (Little Goat)</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 196 --><a id="Page_196"></a> <b>Caprino (Little Goat)</b><br > <i>Argentina</i></p> <p>Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.</p> - <p><b>Caraway Loaf</b><br /> + <p><b>Caraway Loaf</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This is just one imitation of dozens of German @@ -10109,7 +9335,7 @@ IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.</p> - <p><b>Cardiga, Queijo da</b><br /> + <p><b>Cardiga, Queijo da</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in @@ -10120,34 +9346,33 @@ Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so.</p> - <p><b>Carlsbad</b><br /> + <p><b>Carlsbad</b><br > <i>Bohemia</i></p> <p>Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.</p> - <p><b>Carré Affiné</b><br /> + <p><b>Carré Affiné</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and Ancien Impérial (<i>see</i>).</p> - <p><b>Carré de l'Est</b><br /> + <p><b>Carré de l'Est</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.</p> - <p><b>Cascaval Penir</b><br /> + <p><b>Cascaval Penir</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.</p> - <p><!-- Page 197 --><a name="Page_197" - id="Page_197"></a> <b>Caseralla</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 197 --><a id="Page_197"></a> <b>Caseralla</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.</p> - <p><b>Casere</b><br /> + <p><b>Casere</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! @@ -10155,99 +9380,98 @@ is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California.</p> - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> + <p><b>Cashera</b><br > <i>Armenia and Greece</i></p> <p>Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and high in quality.</p> - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> + <p><b>Cashera</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Semihard; sheep.</p> <p><b>Casher Penner</b> <i>see</i> Kasher.</p> - <p><b>Cashkavallo</b><br /> + <p><b>Cashkavallo</b><br > <i>Syria</i></p> <p>Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo.</p> - <p><b>Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca</b><br /> + <p><b>Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca</b><br > <i>Sardinia</i></p> <p>Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.</p> <p><b>Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo</b> <i>see</i> Feta.</p> - <p><b>Caspian</b><br /> + <p><b>Caspian</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> <p>Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting.</p> - <p><b>Cassaro</b><br /> + <p><b>Cassaro</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Locally consumed, seldom exported.</p> - <p><b>Castelmagno</b><br /> + <p><b>Castelmagno</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.</p> - <p><b>Castelo Branco, White Castle</b><br /> + <p><b>Castelo Branco, White Castle</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da Estrella (<i>see</i>).</p> - <p><!-- Page 198 --><a name="Page_198" - id="Page_198"></a> <b>Castillon, or Fromage de - Gascony</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 198 --><a id="Page_198"></a> <b>Castillon, or Fromage de + Gascony</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - <p><b>Castle, Schlosskäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Castle, Schlosskäse</b><br > <i>North Austria</i></p> <p>Limburger type.</p> - <p><b>Catanzaro</b><br /> + <p><b>Catanzaro</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Consumed locally, seldom exported.</p> <p><b>Cat's Head</b> <i>see</i> Katzenkopf.</p> - <p><b>Celery</b><br /> + <p><b>Celery</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway.</p> - <p><b>Cendrée, la</b><br /> + <p><b>Cendrée, la</b><br > <i>France—Orléanais, Blois & Aube</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet</p> - <p><b>Cendré d'Aizy</b><br /> + <p><b>Cendré d'Aizy</b><br > <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>Available all year. <i>See</i> la Cendrée.</p> - <p><b>Cendré de la Brie</b><br /> + <p><b>Cendré de la Brie</b><br > <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> <p>Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May.</p> <p><b>Cendré Champenois or Cendré des - Riceys</b><br /> + Riceys</b><br > <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> <p>Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the @@ -10257,7 +9481,7 @@ <p><b>Cenis</b> <i>see</i> Mont Cenis.</p> - <p><b>Certoso Stracchino</b><br /> + <p><b>Certoso Stracchino</b><br > <i>Italy, near Milan</i></p> <p>A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars @@ -10266,26 +9490,25 @@ of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same reason.</p> - <p><!-- Page 199 --><a name="Page_199" - id="Page_199"></a> <b>Ceva</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 199 --><a id="Page_199"></a> <b>Ceva</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin.</p> - <p><b>Chabichou</b><br /> + <p><b>Chabichou</b><br > <i>Poitou, France</i></p> <p>Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.</p> - <p><b>Chaingy</b><br /> + <p><b>Chaingy</b><br > <i>Orléans, France</i></p> <p>Season September to June.</p> - <p><b>Cham</b><br /> + <p><b>Cham</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of @@ -10299,18 +9522,18 @@ domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.</p> - <p><b>Champenois or Fromage des Riceys</b><br /> + <p><b>Champenois or Fromage des Riceys</b><br > <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> <p>Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des Riceys.</p> - <p><b>Champoléon de Queyras</b><br /> + <p><b>Champoléon de Queyras</b><br > <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i>.</p> <p>Hard; skim-milker.</p> - <p><b>Chantelle</b><br /> + <p><b>Chantelle</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of @@ -10320,24 +9543,23 @@ <p><b>Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> - <p><!-- Page 200 --><a name="Page_200" - id="Page_200"></a> <b>Chaource</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 200 --><a id="Page_200"></a> <b>Chaource</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.</p> - <p><b>Chapelle</b><br /> + <p><b>Chapelle</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft.</p> - <p><b>Charmey Fine</b><br /> + <p><b>Charmey Fine</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Gruyère type.</p> - <p><b>Chaschol, or Chaschosis</b><br /> + <p><b>Chaschol, or Chaschosis</b><br > <i>Canton of Grisons, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in @@ -10348,14 +9570,14 @@ <p><b>Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Chèvre.</p> - <p><b>Chaumont</b><br /> + <p><b>Chaumont</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Season November to May.</p> <p><b>Chavignol</b> <i>see</i> Crottin.</p> - <p><b>Chechaluk</b><br /> + <p><b>Chechaluk</b><br > <i>Armenia</i></p> <p>Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.</p> @@ -10363,7 +9585,7 @@ <p><b>Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Cheese bread</b><br /> + <p><b>Cheese bread</b><br > <i>Russia and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious @@ -10374,22 +9596,21 @@ its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.</p> - <p><!-- Page 201 --><a name="Page_201" - id="Page_201"></a> <b>Cheese butter</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 201 --><a id="Page_201"></a> <b>Cheese butter</b></p> <p>Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter.</p> - <p><b>Cheese food</b><br /> + <p><b>Cheese food</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, - tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement</p> + tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement.</p> <p><b>Cheese hoppers</b> <i>see</i> Hoppers.</p> @@ -10398,7 +9619,7 @@ <p><b>Cheshire and Cheshire imitations</b> <i>see</i> with Cheddar in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Cheshire-Stilton</b><br /> + <p><b>Cheshire-Stilton</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue @@ -10410,20 +9631,19 @@ Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished.</p> - <p><b>Chester</b><br /> + <p><b>Chester</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home.</p> - <p><!-- Page 202 --><a name="Page_202" - id="Page_202"></a> <b>Chevalier</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 202 --><a id="Page_202"></a> <b>Chevalier</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Curds sweetened with sugar.</p> - <p><b>Chevèlle</b><br /> + <p><b>Chevèlle</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A processed Wisconsin.</p> @@ -10437,13 +9657,13 @@ <p><b>Chèvre, Tome de</b> <i>see</i> Tome.</p> - <p><b>Chevretin</b><br /> + <p><b>Chevretin</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are.</p> - <p><b>Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy</b><br /> + <p><b>Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy</b><br > <i>Bresse & Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly @@ -10451,42 +9671,41 @@ named in the plural in France.</p> <p><b>Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, - les</b><br /> + les</b><br > <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> <p>Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.</p> - <p><b>Chevrotins</b><br /> + <p><b>Chevrotins</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and eaten from March to December.</p> - <p><b>Chhana</b><br /> + <p><b>Chhana</b><br > <i>Asia</i></p> <p>All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name.</p> - <p><b>Chiavari</b><br /> + <p><b>Chiavari</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region, - and both are hard:<br /> + and both are hard:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Sour cow's milk, also - known as Cacio Romano.</span><br /> + known as Cacio Romano.</span><br > II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, - the<br /> + the<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">historic little port between - Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the</span><br /> + Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">birthplace of the barbaric - "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with</span><br /> + "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its raucous serenade of - dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.</span><br /> - <!-- Page 203 --><a name="Page_203" - id="Page_203"></a></p> + dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.</span><br > + <!-- Page 203 --><a id="Page_203"></a></p> <p><b>Chives cream cheese</b></p> @@ -10496,47 +9715,46 @@ when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before.</p> - <p><b>Christalinna</b><br /> + <p><b>Christalinna</b><br > <i>Canton Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Christian IX</b><br /> + <p><b>Christian IX</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>A distinguished spiced cheese.</p> - <p><b>Ciclo</b><br /> + <p><b>Ciclo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, small cream cheese.</p> - <p><b>Cierp de Luchon</b><br /> + <p><b>Cierp de Luchon</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's three hundred notables.</p> - <p><b>Citeaux</b><br /> + <p><b>Citeaux</b><br > <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>Trappist Port-Salut.</p> - <p><b>Clabber cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Clabber cheese</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber.</p> - <p><b>Clairvaux</b><br /> + <p><b>Clairvaux</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.</p> - <p><!-- Page 204 --><a name="Page_204" - id="Page_204"></a> <b>Claqueret, le</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 204 --><a id="Page_204"></a> <b>Claqueret, le</b><br > <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> <p>Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. @@ -10544,7 +9762,7 @@ <p><b>Clérimbert</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p> - <p><b>Cleves</b><br /> + <p><b>Cleves</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch @@ -10553,7 +9771,7 @@ <p><b>Cloves</b> <i>see</i> Nagelkäse.</p> <p><b>Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted - cheese</b><br /> + cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A. and Canada</i></p> <p>Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be @@ -10579,26 +9797,25 @@ <p>Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" stores:</p> - <p>Argentine aged Gruyère<br /> - Canadian d'Oka<br /> - French Bleu<br /> - <!-- Page 205 --><a name="Page_205" - id="Page_205"></a> Brie<br /> - Camembert<br /> - Fontainebleu<br /> - Pont l'Evêque<br /> - Port du Salut<br /> - Roblochon<br /> - Roquefort<br /> - Grecian Feta<br /> - Hungarian Brinza<br /> - Polish Warshawski Syr<br /> - Rumanian Kaskaval<br /> - Swiss Schweizerkäse<br /> - American Cheddar in brandy<br /> + <p>Argentine aged Gruyère<br > + Canadian d'Oka<br > + French Bleu<br > + <!-- Page 205 --><a id="Page_205"></a> Brie<br > + Camembert<br > + Fontainebleu<br > + Pont l'Evêque<br > + Port du Salut<br > + Roblochon<br > + Roquefort<br > + Grecian Feta<br > + Hungarian Brinza<br > + Polish Warshawski Syr<br > + Rumanian Kaskaval<br > + Swiss Schweizerkäse<br > + American Cheddar in brandy<br > Hopi Indian</p> - <p><b>Coeur à la Crème</b><br /> + <p><b>Coeur à la Crème</b><br > <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>This becomes Fromage à la Crème II @@ -10606,7 +9823,7 @@ heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket.</p> - <p><b>Coeurs d'Arras</b><br /> + <p><b>Coeurs d'Arras</b><br > <i>Artois, France</i></p> <p>These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly @@ -10620,7 +9837,7 @@ satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor.</p> - <p><b>Coimbra</b><br /> + <p><b>Coimbra</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only @@ -10628,12 +9845,11 @@ bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center.</p> - <p><b>Colby</b><br /> + <p><b>Colby</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open - texture. Contains more <!-- Page 206 --><a name="Page_206" - id="Page_206"></a> moisture, and doesn't keep as well as + texture. Contains more <!-- Page 206 --><a id="Page_206"></a> moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar.</p> <p><b>College-educated</b></p> @@ -10653,13 +9869,13 @@ <p><b>Colwick</b> <i>see</i> Slipcote.</p> - <p><b>Combe-air</b><br /> + <p><b>Combe-air</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size.</p> - <p><b>Commission</b><br /> + <p><b>Commission</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being @@ -10668,20 +9884,19 @@ Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor.</p> - <p><b>Compiègne</b><br /> + <p><b>Compiègne</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft</p> <p><b>Comté</b> <i>see</i> Gruyère.</p> - <p><b>Conches</b><br /> + <p><b>Conches</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Emmentaler type.</p> - <p><!-- Page 207 --><a name="Page_207" - id="Page_207"></a> <b>Condrieu, Rigotte de la</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 207 --><a id="Page_207"></a> <b>Condrieu, Rigotte de la</b><br > <i>Rhone Valley below Lyons, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A @@ -10692,7 +9907,7 @@ <p><b>Confits au Vin Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - <p><b>Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot</b><br /> + <p><b>Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. @@ -10708,22 +9923,21 @@ cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following:</p> - <p>Belgium—Kochtounkäse<br /> - Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen<br /> - Luxembourg—Kochenkäse<br /> - France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux<br /> + <p>Belgium—Kochtounkäse<br > + Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen<br > + Luxembourg—Kochenkäse<br > + France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux<br > Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa</p> <p><b>Coon</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Cornhusker</b><br /> + <p><b>Cornhusker</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture.</p> - <p><!-- Page 208 --><a name="Page_208" - id="Page_208"></a> <b>Cornimont</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 208 --><a id="Page_208"></a> <b>Cornimont</b><br > <i>Vosges, France</i></p> <p>A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked @@ -10731,22 +9945,22 @@ It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.</p> - <p><b>Corse, Roquefort de</b><br /> + <p><b>Corse, Roquefort de</b><br > <i>Corsica, France</i></p> <p>Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course.</p> - <p><b>Cossack</b><br /> + <p><b>Cossack</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> <p>Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in - brine and still soft and mild after two months in<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">the salt bath.</span><br /> + brine and still soft and mild after two months in<br > + <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">the salt bath.</span><br > II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more.</p> - <p><b>Cotherstone</b><br /> + <p><b>Cotherstone</b><br > <i>Yorkshire, England</i></p> <p>Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. @@ -10765,25 +9979,24 @@ called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.</p> - <p><b>Cottenham or Double Cottenham</b><br /> + <p><b>Cottenham or Double Cottenham</b><br > <i>English Midlands</i></p> <p>Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.</p> - <p><!-- Page 209 --><a name="Page_209" - id="Page_209"></a> <b>Cottslowe</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 209 --><a id="Page_209"></a> <b>Cottslowe</b><br > <i>Cotswold, England</i></p> <p>A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.</p> - <p><b>Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule</b><br /> + <p><b>Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule</b><br > <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> <p>Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - <p><b>Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers</b><br /> + <p><b>Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine @@ -10801,7 +10014,7 @@ identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.</p> - <p><b>Cream cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Cream cheese</b><br > <i>International</i></p> <p>England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream @@ -10814,37 +10027,36 @@ specialties are the following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands:</p> - <p>Cambridge<br /> - Cottslowe<br /> - Cornwall<br /> - <!-- Page 210 --><a name="Page_210" - id="Page_210"></a> Farm Vale<br /> - Guilford<br /> - Homer's<br /> - "Italian"<br /> - Lincoln<br /> - New Forest<br /> + <p>Cambridge<br > + Cottslowe<br > + Cornwall<br > + <!-- Page 210 --><a id="Page_210"></a> Farm Vale<br > + Guilford<br > + Homer's<br > + "Italian"<br > + Lincoln<br > + New Forest<br > Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—<i>see</i> - Rush)<br /> + Rush)<br > St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus - bacteria)<br /> - Scotch Caledonian<br /> - Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)<br /> - Victoria<br /> + bacteria)<br > + Scotch Caledonian<br > + Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)<br > + Victoria<br > York</p> <p><b>Crème Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> <p><b>Crème de Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p> - <p><b>Crème de Gruyère</b><br /> + <p><b>Crème de Gruyère</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté France</i></p> <p>Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it.</p> - <p><b>Crème des Vosges</b><br /> + <p><b>Crème des Vosges</b><br > <i>Alsace, France</i></p> <p>Soft cream. Season October to April.</p> @@ -10861,13 +10073,12 @@ <p><b>Crème St Gervais</b> <i>see</i> Pots de Crème St Gervais.</p> - <p><b>Crèmet Nantais</b><br /> + <p><b>Crèmet Nantais</b><br > <i>Lower Loire, France</i></p> <p>Soft fresh cream of Nantes.</p> - <p><!-- Page 211 --><a name="Page_211" - id="Page_211"></a> <b>Crèmets, les</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 211 --><a id="Page_211"></a> <b>Crèmets, les</b><br > <i>Anjou, France</i></p> <p>A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a @@ -10875,7 +10086,7 @@ egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar.</p> - <p><b>Cremini</b><br /> + <p><b>Cremini</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And @@ -10883,55 +10094,54 @@ form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything.</p> - <p><b>Creole</b><br /> + <p><b>Creole</b><br > <i>Louisiana, U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type curd and rich cream.</p> <p><b>Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza - Lombardi</b><br /> + Lombardi</b><br > <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> <p>Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.</p> - <p><b>Creuse</b><br /> + <p><b>Creuse</b><br > <i>Creuse, France</i></p> <p>A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, where it has drained for several - days:<br /> + days:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. It is salted and turned - frequently until very dry and hard.</span><br /> + frequently until very dry and hard.</span><br > II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined - with straw.<br /> + with straw.<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">This softens, flavors, and - turns it golden-yellow. (<i>See</i> Hay</span><br /> + turns it golden-yellow. (<i>See</i> Hay</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">or Fromage de Foin.)</span></p> - <p><b>Creusois, or Guéret</b><br /> + <p><b>Creusois, or Guéret</b><br > <i>Limousin, France</i></p> <p>Season, October to June.</p> - <p><b>Croissant Demi-sel</b><br /> + <p><b>Croissant Demi-sel</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.</p> - <p><!-- Page 212 --><a name="Page_212" - id="Page_212"></a> <b>Crottin de Chavignol</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 212 --><a id="Page_212"></a> <b>Crottin de Chavignol</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April to December. The name is not exactly complimentary.</p> - <p><b>Crowdie, or Cruddy butter</b><br /> + <p><b>Crowdie, or Cruddy butter</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed @@ -10960,7 +10170,7 @@ <p><b>Curd</b> <i>see</i> Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd.</p> - <p><b>Curds and butter</b><br /> + <p><b>Curds and butter</b><br > <i>Arabia</i></p> <p>Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together @@ -10970,9 +10180,7 @@ <p><b>Curé, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - <h3><!-- Page 213 --><a name="Page_213" - id="Page_213"></a> <a name="AtoZ_D" - id="AtoZ_D"></a><br /> + <h3><!-- Page 213 --><a id="Page_213"></a> <a id="AtoZ_D"></a><br > D</h3> <p><b>Daisies, fresh</b></p> @@ -10981,25 +10189,25 @@ English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use for seasoning.</p> - <p><b>Dalmatian</b><br /> + <p><b>Dalmatian</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Hard ewe's-milker.</p> - <p><b>Dambo</b><br /> + <p><b>Dambo</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Semihard and nutty.</p> <p><b>Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des - Montagnes)</b><br /> + Montagnes)</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon.</p> - <p><b>Danish Blue</b><br /> + <p><b>Danish Blue</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent @@ -11010,48 +10218,47 @@ Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser Blues.</p> - <p><b>Danish Export</b><br /> + <p><b>Danish Export</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.</p> - <p><b>Dansk Schweizerost</b><br /> + <p><b>Dansk Schweizerost</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called.</p> - <p><b>Danzig</b><br /> + <p><b>Danzig</b><br > <i>Poland</i></p> <p>A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city.</p> - <p><!-- Page 214 --><a name="Page_214" - id="Page_214"></a> <b>Darling</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 214 --><a id="Page_214"></a> <b>Darling</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston.</p> - <p><b>Dauphin</b><br /> + <p><b>Dauphin</b><br > <i>Flanders, France</i></p> <p>Season, November to May.</p> <p><b>d'Aurigny, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - <p><b>Daventry</b><br /> + <p><b>Daventry</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" veins of a darker green.</p> - <p><b>Decize</b><br /> + <p><b>Decize</b><br > <i>Nivernaise, France</i></p> <p>In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles @@ -11059,7 +10266,7 @@ <p><b>de Foin, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p> - <p><b>de Fontine</b><br /> + <p><b>de Fontine</b><br > <i>Spain</i></p> <p>Crumbly, sharp, nutty.</p> @@ -11068,7 +10275,7 @@ <p><b>de Gérardmer</b> <i>see</i> Récollet.</p> - <p><b>Delft</b><br /> + <p><b>Delft</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>About the same as Leyden. (<i>See</i>.)</p> @@ -11077,7 +10284,7 @@ <p>The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.</p> - <p><b>Delikat</b><br /> + <p><b>Delikat</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German @@ -11096,8 +10303,7 @@ <p>The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the Gros.</p> - <p><!-- Page 215 --><a name="Page_215" - id="Page_215"></a> <b>Demi-Sel</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 215 --><a id="Page_215"></a> <b>Demi-Sel</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but @@ -11107,7 +10313,7 @@ <p><b>Demi-Sel, Croissant</b> <i>see</i> Croissant Demi-Sel.</p> - <p><b>Derby, or Derbyshire</b><br /> + <p><b>Derby, or Derbyshire</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of @@ -11119,7 +10325,7 @@ Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name.</p> - <p><b>Devonshire cream and cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Devonshire cream and cheese</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and @@ -11128,26 +10334,25 @@ ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese.</p> - <p><b>Dolce Verde</b><br /> + <p><b>Dolce Verde</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues.</p> - <p><b>Domaci Beli Sir</b><br /> + <p><b>Domaci Beli Sir</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.</p> - <p><b>Domestic Gruyère</b><br /> + <p><b>Domestic Gruyère</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.</p> - <p><!-- Page 216 --><a name="Page_216" - id="Page_216"></a> <b>Domestic Swiss</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 216 --><a id="Page_216"></a> <b>Domestic Swiss</b><br > <i>U.S.A</i></p> <p>Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is @@ -11155,7 +10360,7 @@ and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country.</p> - <p><b>Domiati</b><br /> + <p><b>Domiati</b><br > <i>Egypt</i></p> <p>Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; @@ -11164,7 +10369,7 @@ in the Near East.</p> <p><b>Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue - Vinny</b><br /> + Vinny</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in @@ -11172,7 +10377,7 @@ the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (<i>See</i> Blue Vinny.)</p> - <p><b>Dotter</b><br /> + <p><b>Dotter</b><br > <i>Nürnberg, Germany</i></p> <p>An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in @@ -11186,23 +10391,22 @@ Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.</p> - <p><b>Double-cream</b><br /> + <p><b>Double-cream</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Similar to Wensleydale.</p> - <p><b>Double-crème</b><br /> + <p><b>Double-crème</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la <!-- Page 217 --> - <a name="Page_217" - id="Page_217"></a>Double-crème, and Pommel is one + <a id="Page_217"></a>Double-crème, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand.</p> - <p><b>Dresdener Bierkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Dresdener Bierkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, @@ -11217,7 +10421,7 @@ noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.</p> - <p><b>Dry</b><br /> + <p><b>Dry</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a @@ -11235,15 +10439,14 @@ where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.)</p> - <p><!-- Page 218 --><a name="Page_218" - id="Page_218"></a> <b>Dubreala</b> <i>see</i> Brina.</p> + <p><!-- Page 218 --><a id="Page_218"></a> <b>Dubreala</b> <i>see</i> Brina.</p> - <p><b>Duel</b><br /> + <p><b>Duel</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.</p> - <p><b>Dunlop</b><br /> + <p><b>Dunlop</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind @@ -11254,13 +10457,13 @@ Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.</p> - <p><b>Durak</b><br /> + <p><b>Durak</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.</p> - <p><b>Duralag, or Bgug-Panir</b><br /> + <p><b>Duralag, or Bgug-Panir</b><br > <i>Armenia</i></p> <p>Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow @@ -11269,7 +10472,7 @@ <p><b>Durmar, Rarush</b> <i>see</i> Rarush.</p> - <p><b>Dutch</b><br /> + <p><b>Dutch</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.</p> @@ -11278,7 +10481,7 @@ <p>American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.</p> - <p><b>Dutch Cream Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Dutch Cream Cheese</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is @@ -11286,7 +10489,7 @@ America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.</p> - <p><b>Dutch Mill</b><br /> + <p><b>Dutch Mill</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A specialty of Oakland, California.</p> @@ -11295,19 +10498,17 @@ <p>English name for Edam.</p> - <h3><!-- Page 219 --><a name="Page_219" - id="Page_219"></a> <a name="AtoZ_E" - id="AtoZ_E"></a><br /> + <h3><!-- Page 219 --><a id="Page_219"></a> <a id="AtoZ_E"></a><br > E</h3> - <p><b>Echourgnac, Trappe d'</b><br /> + <p><b>Echourgnac, Trappe d'</b><br > <i>Périgord, France</i></p> <p>Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.</p> <p><b>Edam</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Egg</b><br /> + <p><b>Egg</b><br > <i>Finland</i></p> <p>Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the @@ -11320,38 +10521,37 @@ the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.</p> - <p><b>Elbinger, or Elbing</b><br /> + <p><b>Elbinger, or Elbing</b><br > <i>West Prussia</i></p> <p>Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse.</p> - <p><b>Ekiwani</b><br /> + <p><b>Ekiwani</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in.</p> - <p><b>Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani</b><br /> + <p><b>Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales.</p> - <p><b>Elmo Table</b><br /> + <p><b>Elmo Table</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, mellow, tasty.</p> - <p><b>Emiliano</b><br /> + <p><b>Emiliano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.</p> - <p><!-- Page 220 --><a name="Page_220" - id="Page_220"></a> <b>Emmentaler</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 220 --><a id="Page_220"></a> <b>Emmentaler</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all @@ -11366,12 +10566,12 @@ to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as <i>nu</i>, "in the nude."</p> - <p><b>Engadine</b><br /> + <p><b>Engadine</b><br > <i>Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.</p> - <p><b>English Dairy</b><br /> + <p><b>English Dairy</b><br > <i>England and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has @@ -11380,7 +10580,7 @@ <p><b>Entrechaux, le Cachat d'</b> <i>see</i> Cachat.</p> - <p><b>Epoisses, Fromage d'</b><br /> + <p><b>Epoisses, Fromage d'</b><br > <i>Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches @@ -11389,14 +10589,14 @@ <i>marc</i> to d'Epoisses in making <i>confits</i> with that name.</p> - <p><b>Erbo</b><br /> + <p><b>Erbo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores.</p> - <p><b>Erce</b><br /> + <p><b>Erce</b><br > <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> <p>Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from @@ -11404,8 +10604,7 @@ <p><b>Eriwani</b> <i>see</i> Elisavetpolen.</p> - <p><!-- Page 221 --><a name="Page_221" - id="Page_221"></a> <b>Ervy</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 221 --><a id="Page_221"></a> <b>Ervy</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by @@ -11413,7 +10612,7 @@ A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May.</p> - <p><b>Essex</b><br /> + <p><b>Essex</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English @@ -11421,41 +10620,40 @@ <p><b>Estrella</b> <i>see</i> Serra da Estrella.</p> - <p><b>Étuve and Demi-Étuve</b><br /> + <p><b>Étuve and Demi-Étuve</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year.</p> - <p><b>Evarglice</b><br /> + <p><b>Evarglice</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Sharp, nutty flavor.</p> - <p><b>Excelsior</b><br /> + <p><b>Excelsior</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Season all year.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_F" - id="AtoZ_F"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_F"></a><br > F</h3> - <p><b>Factory Cheddar</b><br /> + <p><b>Factory Cheddar</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and tractable—too tractable, in fact.</p> - <p><b>Farm</b><br /> + <p><b>Farm</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese.</p> - <p><b>Farmer</b><br /> + <p><b>Farmer</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, @@ -11465,8 +10663,7 @@ <p><b>Farmhouse</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - <p><!-- Page 222 --><a name="Page_222" - id="Page_222"></a> <b>Farm Vale</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 222 --><a id="Page_222"></a> <b>Farm Vale</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in @@ -11481,12 +10678,12 @@ <p><b>Feta</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Feuille de Dreux</b><br /> + <p><b>Feuille de Dreux</b><br > <i>Béarn, France</i></p> <p>November to May.</p> - <p><b>"Filled cheese"</b><br /> + <p><b>"Filled cheese"</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in @@ -11500,31 +10697,30 @@ fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation.</p> - <p><b>Fin de Siècle</b><br /> + <p><b>Fin de Siècle</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.</p> - <p><b>Fiore di Alpe</b><br /> + <p><b>Fiore di Alpe</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps."</p> - <p><b>Fiore Sardo</b><br /> + <p><b>Fiore Sardo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully cured.</p> - <p><!-- Page 223 --><a name="Page_223" - id="Page_223"></a> <b>Flandre, Tuile de</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 223 --><a id="Page_223"></a> <b>Flandre, Tuile de</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A kind of Marolles.</p> - <p><b>Fleur de Deauville</b><br /> + <p><b>Fleur de Deauville</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A type of Brie, in season December to May.</p> @@ -11532,19 +10728,19 @@ <p><b>Fleur des Alpes</b> <i>see</i> Bel Paese and Millefiori.</p> - <p><b>Floedeost</b><br /> + <p><b>Floedeost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk.</p> - <p><b>Fløtost</b><br /> + <p><b>Fløtost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.</p> - <p><b>Flower</b><br /> + <p><b>Flower</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds @@ -11561,7 +10757,7 @@ so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes.</p> - <p><b>Foggiano</b><br /> + <p><b>Foggiano</b><br > <i>Apulia, Italy</i></p> <p>A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of @@ -11571,42 +10767,41 @@ <p><b>Fondu, Vacherin</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.</p> - <p><b>Fontainebleau</b><br /> + <p><b>Fontainebleau</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; summer variety.</p> - <p><!-- Page 224 --><a name="Page_224" - id="Page_224"></a><b>Fontina</b> <i>Val d'Acosta, + <p><!-- Page 224 --><a id="Page_224"></a><b>Fontina</b> <i>Val d'Acosta, Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma.</p> - <p><b>Fontine, de</b><br /> + <p><b>Fontine, de</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>A favorite all-year product.</p> - <p><b>Fontinelli</b><br /> + <p><b>Fontinelli</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.</p> - <p><b>Fontini</b><br /> + <p><b>Fontini</b><br > <i>Parma, Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same region as Parmesan.</p> - <p><b>Food cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Food cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it.</p> - <p><b>Forez, also called d'Ambert</b><br /> + <p><b>Forez, also called d'Ambert</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the @@ -11620,12 +10815,12 @@ for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet.)</p> - <p><b>Formagelle</b><br /> + <p><b>Formagelle</b><br > <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.</p> - <p><b>Formaggi di Pasta Filata</b><br /> + <p><b>Formaggi di Pasta Filata</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with @@ -11634,9 +10829,8 @@ while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group.</p> - <p><!-- Page 225 --><a name="Page_225" - id="Page_225"></a> <b>Formaggini, and Formaggini di - Lecco</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 225 --><a id="Page_225"></a> <b>Formaggini, and Formaggini di + Lecco</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is @@ -11646,7 +10840,7 @@ cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.</p> - <p><b>Formaggio d'Oro</b><br /> + <p><b>Formaggio d'Oro</b><br > <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> <p>Hard, sharp, mountain-made.</p> @@ -11656,7 +10850,7 @@ <p><b>Fort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Fort.</p> - <p><b>Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome</b><br /> + <p><b>Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>This is a big family in the rich cheese province of @@ -11665,7 +10859,7 @@ Rôche and Salers. (<i>See</i> Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal.)</p> - <p><b>Fourme de Montebrison</b><br /> + <p><b>Fourme de Montebrison</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from @@ -11674,18 +10868,18 @@ <p><b>Fourme de Salers</b> <i>see</i> Cantal, which it resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.</p> - <p><b>Fresa, or Pannedas</b><br /> + <p><b>Fresa, or Pannedas</b><br > <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> <p>A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.</p> - <p><b>Fribourg</b><br /> + <p><b>Fribourg</b><br > <i>Italy and Switzerland</i></p> <p>Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (<i>See</i>)</p> - <p><b>Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, @@ -11693,42 +10887,41 @@ <p><b>Friesian</b> <i>see</i> West Friesian.</p> - <p><!-- Page 226 --><a name="Page_226" - id="Page_226"></a> <b>Fromage à la Creme</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 226 --><a id="Page_226"></a> <b>Fromage à la Creme</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p><span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Sour milk drained and - mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of</span><br /> + mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Gien is a noted produce, and - so is d'Isigny.</span><br /> + so is d'Isigny.</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh - thick cream,</span><br /> + thick cream,</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">whipped egg whites and - sugar.</span><br /> + sugar.</span><br > III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has - soured solid it is<br /> + soured solid it is<br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">hung in cheesecloth in a - cool place to drain, then mixed with a</span><br /> + cool place to drain, then mixed with a</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">little fresh milk and served - with cream.</span><br /> + with cream.</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">IV. When Morvan or other - type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket</span><br /> + type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">for a mold, and marketed in - that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,</span><br /> + that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar.</span></p> <p><b>Fromage à la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm</p> - <p><b>Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after Bavaria where it probably originated.</p> - <p><b>Fromage Blanc</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage Blanc</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, @@ -11742,14 +10935,13 @@ <p>Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also called Fromage de - <!-- Page 227 --><a name="Page_227" - id="Page_227"></a> Curé. Other districts devoted to + <!-- Page 227 --><a id="Page_227"></a> Curé. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France.</p> <p><b>Fromage Bleu</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - <p><b>Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)</b><br > <i>Thionville, Lorraine, France</i></p> <p>Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is @@ -11760,12 +10952,12 @@ <p><b>Fromage d'Aurigny</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Bayonne</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Bayonne</b><br > <i>Bayonne, France</i></p> <p>Made with ewe's milk.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Bôite</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Bôite</b><br > <i>Doubs, France</i></p> <p>Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont @@ -11775,14 +10967,14 @@ <p><i>see</i> Burgundy.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>A seasonal goat cheese.</p> <p><b>Fromage de Curé</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté</b><br > <i>Poitou, France</i></p> <p>Half goat and half cow milk.</p> @@ -11793,13 +10985,12 @@ <p><b>Fromage de St. Rémy</b> <i>see</i> Chevrets.</p> - <p><!-- Page 228 --><a name="Page_228" - id="Page_228"></a> <b>Fromage de Serac</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 228 --><a id="Page_228"></a> <b>Fromage de Serac</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Troyes</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Troyes</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Two cheeses have this name. (<i>See</i> Barberry and @@ -11809,7 +11000,7 @@ <p>Another name for Autun.</p> - <p><b>Fromage de Monsieur Fromage</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage de Monsieur Fromage</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its @@ -11819,7 +11010,7 @@ its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.</p> - <p><b>Fromage Fort</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage Fort</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in @@ -11838,8 +11029,7 @@ salt and white wine.</p> <p><i>Fort No. II</i>: That from Franche-Comté Small dry - goat cheeses pounded and <!-- Page 229 --><a name="Page_229" - id="Page_229"></a> potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, + goat cheeses pounded and <!-- Page 229 --><a id="Page_229"></a> potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (<i>See</i> Hazebrook.)</p> <p><i>Fort No. III</i>: From Provence, also called Cachat @@ -11847,7 +11037,7 @@ sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated.</p> - <p><b>Fromage Gras (fat cheese)</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromage Gras (fat cheese)</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Soft, round, fat ball called <i>tête de mort</i>, @@ -11858,10 +11048,10 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span><i>Les gens à l'humeur - morose</i><br /></span> <span><i>Prennent la - Tête-de-Mort</i>.<br /></span> <span>People of a - morose disposition<br /></span> <span>Take the Death's - Head.<br /></span> + morose</i><br ></span> <span><i>Prennent la + Tête-de-Mort</i>.<br ></span> <span>People of a + morose disposition<br ></span> <span>Take the Death's + Head.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -11873,7 +11063,7 @@ <p><b>Fromagère</b> <i>see</i> Canquillote.</p> - <p><b>Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> + <p><b>Fromages de Chèvre</b><br > <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> <p>Small, dried goat-milkers.</p> @@ -11885,17 +11075,15 @@ Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their fast.</p> - <p><b>Ftinoporino</b><br /> + <p><b>Ftinoporino</b><br > <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> <p>Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.</p> - <h3><!-- Page 230 --><a name="Page_230" - id="Page_230"></a> <a name="AtoZ_G" - id="AtoZ_G"></a><br /> + <h3><!-- Page 230 --><a id="Page_230"></a> <a id="AtoZ_G"></a><br > G</h3> - <p><b>Gaiskäsli</b><br /> + <p><b>Gaiskäsli</b><br > <i>Germany and Switzerland</i></p> <p>A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small @@ -11905,7 +11093,7 @@ and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.</p> - <p><b>Gammelost</b><br /> + <p><b>Gammelost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is @@ -11919,7 +11107,7 @@ flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese."</p> - <p><b>Garda</b><br /> + <p><b>Garda</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the @@ -11928,18 +11116,17 @@ edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind.</p> - <p><b>Garden</b><br /> + <p><b>Garden</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.</p> - <p><b>Garlic</b><br /> + <p><b>Garlic</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.</p> - <p><!-- Page 231 --><a name="Page_231" - id="Page_231"></a> <b>Garlic-onion Link</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 231 --><a id="Page_231"></a> <b>Garlic-onion Link</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of @@ -11947,19 +11134,19 @@ <p><b>Gascony, Fromage de</b> <i>see Castillon.</i></p> - <p><b>Gautrias</b><br /> + <p><b>Gautrias</b><br > <i>Mayenne, France</i></p> <p>Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut.</p> - <p><b>Gavot</b><br /> + <p><b>Gavot</b><br > <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i></p> <p>A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk.</p> - <p><b>Geheimrath</b><br /> + <p><b>Geheimrath</b><br > <i>Netherlands</i></p> <p>A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color @@ -11978,17 +11165,16 @@ Allgäuer)</p> </div> - <p><b>Géromé, la</b><br /> + <p><b>Géromé, la</b><br > <i>Vosges, France</i></p> <p>Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and - <!-- Page 232 --><a name="Page_232" - id="Page_232"></a>flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It + <!-- Page 232 --><a id="Page_232"></a>flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April.</p> - <p><b>Gervais</b><br /> + <p><b>Gervais</b><br > <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> <p>Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison @@ -11999,18 +11185,18 @@ <p><b>Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner</b> <i>see</i> Holstein Health.</p> - <p><b>Getmesost</b><br /> + <p><b>Getmesost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Soft; goat; whey; sweet.</p> - <p><b>Gex</b><br /> + <p><b>Gex</b><br > <i>Pays de Gex, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May.</p> - <p><b>Gex Marbré</b><br /> + <p><b>Gex Marbré</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and @@ -12020,74 +11206,73 @@ <p><b>Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage à la Crème.</p> - <p><b>Gislev</b><br /> + <p><b>Gislev</b><br > <i>Scandinavia</i></p> <p>Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.</p> - <p><b>Gjetost</b><br /> + <p><b>Gjetost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.</p> - <p><b>Glavis</b><br /> + <p><b>Glavis</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - <p><b>Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.</p> - <p><!-- Page 233 --><a name="Page_233" - id="Page_233"></a> <b>Cloire des Montagnes</b> <i>see</i> + <p><!-- Page 233 --><a id="Page_233"></a> <b>Cloire des Montagnes</b> <i>see</i> Damen.</p> - <p><b>3/Dec/2004 15:38</b><br /> + <p><b>Gloucester</b><br > <i>Gloucestershire, England</i></p> - <p>There are two types:<br /> + <p>There are two types:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Double, the better of the - two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six</span><br /> + two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">months of ripening. "It has a - pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of</span><br /> + pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">flavor...the tiniest morsel - being pregnant with savour. To measure</span><br /> + being pregnant with savour. To measure</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its refinement, it can undergo - the same comparison as that we apply</span><br /> + the same comparison as that we apply</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">to vintage wines. Begin with a - small piece of Red Cheshire. If you</span><br /> + small piece of Red Cheshire. If you</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">then pass to a morsel of - Double Gloucester, you will find that the</span><br /> + Double Gloucester, you will find that the</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">praises accorded to the latter - have been no whit exaggerated."</span><br /> + have been no whit exaggerated."</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>A Concise Encyclopedia of - Gastronomy,</i> by André L. Simon.</span><br /> + Gastronomy,</i> by André L. Simon.</span><br > II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single - Gloucester<br /> + Gloucester<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ripens in two months and is - not as big as its "large grindstone"</span><br /> + not as big as its "large grindstone"</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">brother. And neither is it - "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and</span><br /> + "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"as different in qualify of - flavour as a young and crisp wine is</span><br /> + flavour as a young and crisp wine is</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from an old vintage."</span></p> - <p><b>Glumse</b><br /> + <p><b>Glumse</b><br > <i>West Prussia, Germany</i></p> <p>A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.</p> - <p><b>Glux</b><br /> + <p><b>Glux</b><br > <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> <p>Season, all year.</p> - <p><b>Goat</b><br /> + <p><b>Goat</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of @@ -12097,8 +11282,7 @@ chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble.</p> - <p><!-- Page 234 --><a name="Page_234" - id="Page_234"></a> <b>Gold-N-Rich</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 234 --><a id="Page_234"></a> <b>Gold-N-Rich</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste @@ -12106,14 +11290,14 @@ sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind.</p> - <p><b>Gomost</b><br /> + <p><b>Gomost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (<i>See</i> Mysost.)</p> - <p><b>Gorgonzola</b><br /> + <p><b>Gorgonzola</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Besides the standard type exported to us (<i>See</i> @@ -12124,7 +11308,7 @@ <p><b>Gouda</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Gouda, Kosher</b><br /> + <p><b>Gouda, Kosher</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. @@ -12132,7 +11316,7 @@ products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it.</p> - <p><b>Goya</b><br /> + <p><b>Goya</b><br > <i>Corrientes, Argentine</i></p> <p>Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine @@ -12145,8 +11329,7 @@ milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals.</p> - <p><!-- Page 235 --><a name="Page_235" - id="Page_235"></a> <b>Gournay</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 235 --><a id="Page_235"></a> <b>Gournay</b><br > <i>Seine, France</i></p> <p>Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms @@ -12154,19 +11337,19 @@ resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches long.</p> - <p><b>Grana</b><br /> + <p><b>Grana</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into.</p> - <p><b>Grana Lombardo</b><br /> + <p><b>Grana Lombardo</b><br > <i>Lombardy</i></p> <p>The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy.</p> - <p><b>Grana Reggiano</b><br /> + <p><b>Grana Reggiano</b><br > <i>Reggio, Italy</i></p> <p>A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely @@ -12174,14 +11357,14 @@ Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own—Regianito.</p> - <p><b>Grande Bornand, la</b><br /> + <p><b>Grande Bornand, la</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> <p><b>Granular curd</b> <i>see</i> Stirred curd.</p> - <p><b>Gras, or Velvet Kaas</b><br /> + <p><b>Gras, or Velvet Kaas</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", @@ -12191,25 +11374,24 @@ popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (<i>See</i> Brie.)</p> - <p><b>Gratairon</b><br /> + <p><b>Gratairon</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made.</p> - <p><b>Graubünden</b><br /> + <p><b>Graubünden</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> - <p><!-- Page 236 --><a name="Page_236" - id="Page_236"></a> <b>Green Bay</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 236 --><a id="Page_236"></a> <b>Green Bay</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county.</p> - <p><b>Grey</b><br /> + <p><b>Grey</b><br > <i>Germany and Austrian Tyrol</i></p> <p>Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in @@ -12219,19 +11401,18 @@ <p><b>Gruyère</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Güssing, or Land-l-kas</b><br /> + <p><b>Güssing, or Land-l-kas</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_H" - id="AtoZ_H"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_H"></a><br > H</h3> <p><b>Habas</b> <i>see</i> Caille.</p> - <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b><br /> + <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b><br > <i>Ösmo, Sweden</i></p> <p>Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by @@ -12243,12 +11424,12 @@ <p><b>Hand</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Hard</b><br /> + <p><b>Hard</b><br > <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> <p>Dry; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Harzkäse, Harz</b><br /> + <p><b>Harzkäse, Harz</b><br > <i>Harz Mountains, Germany</i></p> <p>Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, @@ -12257,29 +11438,28 @@ rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.</p> - <p><!-- Page 237 --><a name="Page_237" - id="Page_237"></a> <b>Harzé</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 237 --><a id="Page_237"></a> <b>Harzé</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé.</p> - <p><b>Hasandach</b><br /> + <p><b>Hasandach</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Bland; sweet.</p> - <p><b>Hauskäse.</b><br /> + <p><b>Hauskäse.</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Limburger type. Disk-shaped.</p> - <p><b>Haute Marne</b><br /> + <p><b>Haute Marne</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; square.</p> - <p><b>Hay, or Fromage au Foin</b><br /> + <p><b>Hay, or Fromage au Foin</b><br > <i>Seine, France</i></p> <p>A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing @@ -12291,11 +11471,11 @@ <p>There are two kinds:</p> <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort - type with white wine, juniper, salt and</span><br /> + type with white wine, juniper, salt and</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">pepper. Excessively strong for - bland American tasters.</span><br /> + bland American tasters.</span><br > II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, - pounded, potted and<br /> + pounded, potted and<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.</span></p> @@ -12303,9 +11483,9 @@ <p>Four cheeses are called Head:</p> - <p>The French Death's Head.<br /> - Swiss Monk's Head.<br /> - Dutch Cat's Head.<br /> + <p>The French Death's Head.<br > + Swiss Monk's Head.<br > + Dutch Cat's Head.<br > Moor's Head.</p> <p>There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head @@ -12313,20 +11493,19 @@ <p><b>Health</b> <i>see</i> Holstein.</p> - <p><b>Herbesthal</b><br /> + <p><b>Herbesthal</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Named from a valley full of rich <i>herbes</i> for grazing.</p> - <p><!-- Page 238 --><a name="Page_238" - id="Page_238"></a> <b>Herkimer</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 238 --><a id="Page_238"></a> <b>Herkimer</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Cheddar type; nearly white. <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House</b><br /> + <p><b>Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House</b><br > <i>West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden</i></p> <p>Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half @@ -12335,7 +11514,7 @@ <p><b>Herrgårdstyp</b> <i>see</i> Hushållsost.</p> - <p><b>Hervé</b><br /> + <p><b>Hervé</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Soft; made in cubes and peppered with <i>herbes</i> such as @@ -12343,20 +11522,20 @@ May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk.</p> - <p><b>Hickory Smoked</b><br /> + <p><b>Hickory Smoked</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.</p> <p><b>Hohenburg</b> <i>see</i> Box No. II.</p> - <p><b>Hohenheim</b><br /> + <p><b>Hohenheim</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.)</p> - <p><b>Hoi Poi</b><br /> + <p><b>Hoi Poi</b><br > <i>China</i></p> <p>Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in @@ -12364,7 +11543,7 @@ <p><b>Hoja</b> <i>see</i> Queso de.</p> - <p><b>Hollander</b><br /> + <p><b>Hollander</b><br > <i>North Germany</i></p> <p>Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in @@ -12372,41 +11551,40 @@ <p><b>Holstein Dairy</b> <i>see</i> Leather.</p> - <p><b>Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner</b><br /> + <p><b>Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping.</p> <p><b>Holstein Health, or Holsteiner - Gesundheitkäse</b><br /> + Gesundheitkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled.</p> - <p><!-- Page 239 --><a name="Page_239" - id="Page_239"></a> <b>Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein - Magerkäse</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 239 --><a id="Page_239"></a> <b>Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein + Magerkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all.</p> - <p><b>Hop, Hopfen</b><br /> + <p><b>Hop, Hopfen</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.</p> - <p><b>Hopi</b><br /> + <p><b>Hopi</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.</p> - <p>Horner's<br /> + <p>Horner's<br > <i>England</i></p> <p>An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire @@ -12418,28 +11596,27 @@ because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it.</p> - <p><b>Hum</b><br /> + <p><b>Hum</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum."</p> - <p><b>Hushållsost, Household Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Hushållsost, Household Cheese</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> - <p>Popular in three types: Popular in three types:<br /> - Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse<br /> - Västgötatyp—Westgotland<br /> + <p>Popular in three types: Popular in three types:<br > + Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse<br > + Västgötatyp—Westgotland<br > Sveciatyp—Swedish</p> - <p><b>Hvid Gjetost</b><br /> + <p><b>Hvid Gjetost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_I" - id="AtoZ_I"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_I"></a><br > I</h3> <p><b>Icelandic</b></p> @@ -12449,13 +11626,12 @@ a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost.</p> - <p><!-- Page 240 --><a name="Page_240" - id="Page_240"></a> <b>Ihlefield</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 240 --><a id="Page_240"></a> <b>Ihlefield</b><br > <i>Mecklenburg, Germany</i></p> <p>A hand cheese.</p> - <p><b>Ilha, Queijo de</b><br /> + <p><b>Ilha, Queijo de</b><br > <i>Azores</i></p> <p>Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother @@ -12467,13 +11643,13 @@ <p><b>Impérial, Ancien</b> <i>see</i> Ancien.</p> - <p><b>Imperial Club</b><br /> + <p><b>Imperial Club</b><br > <i>Canada</i></p> <p>Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial.</p> - <p><b>Incanestrato</b><br /> + <p><b>Incanestrato</b><br > <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> <p>Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round @@ -12487,7 +11663,7 @@ imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.</p> - <p><b>Isigny</b><br /> + <p><b>Isigny</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. @@ -12500,8 +11676,7 @@ cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can.</p> - <p><!-- Page 241 --><a name="Page_241" - id="Page_241"></a> <b>Island of Orléans</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 241 --><a id="Page_241"></a> <b>Island of Orléans</b><br > <i>Canada</i></p> <p>This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from @@ -12511,26 +11686,25 @@ Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined."</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_J" - id="AtoZ_J"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_J"></a><br > J</h3> <p><b>Jack</b> <i>see</i> Monterey.</p> - <p><b>Jochberg</b><br /> + <p><b>Jochberg</b><br > <i>Tyrol, Germany</i></p> <p>Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.</p> - <p><b>Jonchée</b><br /> + <p><b>Jonchée</b><br > <i>Santonge, France</i></p> <p>A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee.</p> - <p><b>Josephine</b><br /> + <p><b>Josephine</b><br > <i>Silesia, Germany</i></p> <p>Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small @@ -12539,85 +11713,83 @@ <p><b>Journiac</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Julost</b><br /> + <p><b>Julost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i>.</p> <p>Semihard; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel</b><br /> + <p><b>Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_K" - id="AtoZ_K"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_K"></a><br > K</h3> - <p><b>Kaas, Oude</b><br /> + <p><b>Kaas, Oude</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.</p> - <p><!-- Page 242 --><a name="Page_242" - id="Page_242"></a> <b>Kackavalj</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 242 --><a id="Page_242"></a> <b>Kackavalj</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Same as Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - <p><b>Kaiser-käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Kaiser-käse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.</p> - <p><b>Kajmar, or Serbian Butter</b><br /> + <p><b>Kajmar, or Serbian Butter</b><br > <i>Serbia and Turkey</i></p> <p>Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.</p> - <p><b>Kamembert</b><br /> + <p><b>Kamembert</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Imitation Camembert.</p> - <p><b>Karaghi La-La</b><br /> + <p><b>Karaghi La-La</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Nutty and tangy.</p> - <p><b>Kareish</b><br /> + <p><b>Kareish</b><br > <i>Egypt</i></p> <p>A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.</p> - <p><b>Karut</b><br /> + <p><b>Karut</b><br > <i>India</i></p> <p>Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.</p> - <p><b>Karvi</b><br /> + <p><b>Karvi</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.</p> - <p><b>Kash</b><br /> + <p><b>Kash</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.</p> - <p><b>Kashcavallo, Caskcaval</b><br /> + <p><b>Kashcavallo, Caskcaval</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - <p><b>Kasher, or Caher, Penner</b><br /> + <p><b>Kasher, or Caher, Penner</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Hard; white; sharp.</p> - <p><b>Kash Kwan</b><br /> + <p><b>Kash Kwan</b><br > <i>Bulgaria and the Balkans</i></p> <p>An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when @@ -12625,8 +11797,7 @@ failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities.</p> - <p><!-- Page 243 --><a name="Page_243" - id="Page_243"></a> <b>Kaskaval</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 243 --><a id="Page_243"></a> <b>Kaskaval</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and @@ -12634,48 +11805,48 @@ neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A.</p> - <p><b>Kasseri</b><br /> + <p><b>Kasseri</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Hard; ewe's milk, usually.</p> - <p><b>Katschkawalj</b><br /> + <p><b>Katschkawalj</b><br > <i>Serbia</i></p> <p>Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.</p> - <p><b>Katzenkopf, Cat's Head</b><br /> + <p><b>Katzenkopf, Cat's Head</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Another name for Edam. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - <p><b>Kaukauna Club</b><br /> + <p><b>Kaukauna Club</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Widely advertised processed cheese food.</p> - <p><b>Kauna</b><br /> + <p><b>Kauna</b><br > <i>Lithuania</i></p> <p>A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.</p> - <p><b>Kefalotir, Kefalotyi</b><br /> + <p><b>Kefalotir, Kefalotyi</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria</i></p> <p>Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo.</p> - <p><b>Keg-ripened</b><br /> + <p><b>Keg-ripened</b><br > <i>see</i> Brand.</p> - <p><b>King Christian IX</b><br /> + <p><b>King Christian IX</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.</p> - <p><b>Kingdom Farm</b><br /> + <p><b>Kingdom Farm</b><br > <i>U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y.</i> The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to @@ -12684,20 +11855,19 @@ <p><b>Kirgischerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Krutt.</p> - <p><!-- Page 244 --><a name="Page_244" - id="Page_244"></a> <b>Kjarsgaard</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 244 --><a id="Page_244"></a> <b>Kjarsgaard</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon <i>Kaffee-klatsches</i> in the <i>Konditories</i>.</p> - <p><b>Kloster, Kloster Käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Kloster, Kloster Käse</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In @@ -12706,23 +11876,23 @@ freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day.</p> - <p><b>Kochenkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Kochenkäse</b><br > <i>Luxembourg</i></p> <p>Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets.</p> - <p><b>Koch Käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Koch Käse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>This translates "cooked cheese."</p> - <p><b>Kochtounkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Kochtounkäse</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.</p> - <p><b>Kolos-monostor</b><br /> + <p><b>Kolos-monostor</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three @@ -12730,29 +11900,28 @@ students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania.</p> - <p><b>Kolosvarer</b><br /> + <p><b>Kolosvarer</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Komijnekaas, Komynekass</b><br /> + <p><b>Komijnekaas, Komynekass</b><br > <i>North Holland</i></p> <p>Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.</p> - <p><b>Konigskäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Konigskäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 245 --><a name="Page_245" - id="Page_245"></a> <b>Kopanisti</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 245 --><a id="Page_245"></a> <b>Kopanisti</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.</p> - <p><b>Koppen, Cup, or Bauden</b><br /> + <p><b>Koppen, Cup, or Bauden</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both @@ -12760,7 +11929,7 @@ pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages.</p> - <p><b>Korestin</b><br /> + <p><b>Korestin</b><br > <i>Russia</i></p> <p>Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.</p> @@ -12772,20 +11941,20 @@ Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (<i>See</i> Gouda, Kosher.)</p> - <p><b>Krauterkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Krauterkäse</b><br > <i>Brazil</i></p> <p>Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.</p> - <p><b>Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse.</p> - <p><b>Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse</b><br > <i>Asian Steppes</i></p> <p>A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the @@ -12793,77 +11962,74 @@ camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun.</p> - <p><b>Kühbacher</b><br /> + <p><b>Kühbacher</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made.</p> - <p><b>Kuminost</b><br /> + <p><b>Kuminost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Semihard; caraway-seeded.</p> - <p><!-- Page 246 --><a name="Page_246" - id="Page_246"></a> <b>Kumminost</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 246 --><a id="Page_246"></a> <b>Kumminost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>This is Bondost with caraway added.</p> - <p><b>Kummin Ost</b><br /> + <p><b>Kummin Ost</b><br > <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their <i>ost</i>.</p> - <p><b>Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas</b><br /> + <p><b>Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Caraway-seeded and named.</p> - <p><b>Kümmelkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Kümmelkäse</b><br > <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_L" - id="AtoZ_L"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_L"></a><br > L</h3> - <p><b>Labneh</b><br /> + <p><b>Labneh</b><br > <i>Syria</i></p> <p>Sour-milk.</p> - <p><b>La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau</b><br /> + <p><b>La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Cream cheese.</p> - <p><b>Lager Käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Lager Käse</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Semidry and mellow. While <i>lager</i> means merely "to store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here.</p> - <p><b>Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole</b><br /> + <p><b>Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole</b><br > <i>Aveyron, France</i></p> <p>An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full season from November to May.</p> - <p><b>Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray</b><br /> + <p><b>Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray</b><br > <i>Poitou</i></p> <p>Goat cheese made from May to November.</p> - <p><!-- Page 247 --><a name="Page_247" - id="Page_247"></a> <b>Lancashire, or Lancaster</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 247 --><a id="Page_247"></a> <b>Lancashire, or Lancaster</b><br > <i>North England</i></p> <p>White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can @@ -12874,19 +12040,19 @@ accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in color.</p> - <p><b>Land-l-kas, or Güssing</b><br /> + <p><b>Land-l-kas, or Güssing</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds.</p> - <p><b>Langlois Blue</b><br /> + <p><b>Langlois Blue</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly compete with Roquefort.</p> - <p><b>Langres</b><br /> + <p><b>Langres</b><br > <i>Haute-Marne, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, @@ -12895,44 +12061,43 @@ kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.</p> - <p><b>Lapland</b><br /> + <p><b>Lapland</b><br > <i>Lapland</i></p> <p>Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends.</p> - <p><b>Laredo</b><br /> + <p><b>Laredo</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city.</p> - <p><b>Larron</b><br /> + <p><b>Larron</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A kind of Maroilles.</p> - <p><b>Latticini</b><br /> + <p><b>Latticini</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert.</p> - <p><!-- Page 248 --><a name="Page_248" - id="Page_248"></a> <b>Laumes, les</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 248 --><a id="Page_248"></a> <b>Laumes, les</b><br > <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>Made from November to July.</p> - <p><b>Lauterbach</b><br /> + <p><b>Lauterbach</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Breakfast cheese</p> <p><b>Leaf</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> - <p><b>Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy</b><br /> + <p><b>Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from @@ -12941,12 +12106,12 @@ it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred with a Danish stirrer."</p> - <p><b>Lebanie</b><br /> + <p><b>Lebanie</b><br > <i>Syria</i></p> <p>Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.</p> - <p><b>Lecco, Formaggini di</b><br /> + <p><b>Lecco, Formaggini di</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of @@ -12955,14 +12120,14 @@ <p><b>Lees</b> <i>see</i> Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.</p> - <p><b>LeGuéyin</b><br /> + <p><b>LeGuéyin</b><br > <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> <p>Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt <i>and</i> pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato.</p> - <p><b>Leicester</b><br /> + <p><b>Leicester</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese @@ -12975,24 +12140,23 @@ <p><b>Leidsche Kaas</b> <i>see</i> Leyden.</p> - <p><!-- Page 249 --><a name="Page_249" - id="Page_249"></a> <b>Leonessa</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 249 --><a id="Page_249"></a> <b>Leonessa</b></p> <p>A kind of Pecorino.</p> - <p><b>Leroy</b><br /> + <p><b>Leroy</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed.</p> - <p><b>Lerroux</b><br /> + <p><b>Lerroux</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or winter months.</p> - <p><b>Lescin</b><br /> + <p><b>Lescin</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> <p>Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked @@ -13007,7 +12171,7 @@ cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.</p> - <p><b>Les Petits Bressans</b><br /> + <p><b>Les Petits Bressans</b><br > <i>Bresse, France</i></p> <p>Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the @@ -13019,18 +12183,17 @@ <p><b>Le Vacherin</b></p> - <p>Name given to two entirely different varieties:<br /> + <p>Name given to two entirely different varieties:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Vacherin à la - Main</span><br /> + Main</span><br > II. Vacherin Fondu. (<i>See</i> Vacherin.)</p> - <p><!-- Page 250 --><a name="Page_250" - id="Page_250"></a> <b>Levroux</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 250 --><a id="Page_250"></a> <b>Levroux</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>A goat cheese in season from May to December.</p> - <p><b>Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two @@ -13044,19 +12207,19 @@ <p><b>Limburger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Lincoln</b><br /> + <p><b>Lincoln</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Lindenhof</b><br /> + <p><b>Lindenhof</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.</p> - <p><b>Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu</b><br /> + <p><b>Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great @@ -13068,14 +12231,13 @@ various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - <p><b>Lipto</b><br /> + <p><b>Lipto</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both Liptauer and Brinza.</p> - <p><!-- Page 251 --><a name="Page_251" - id="Page_251"></a> <b>Little Nippy</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 251 --><a id="Page_251"></a> <b>Little Nippy</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and @@ -13083,7 +12245,7 @@ spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed.</p> - <p><b>Livarot</b><br /> + <p><b>Livarot</b><br > <i>Calvados, France</i></p> <p>Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, @@ -13099,131 +12261,128 @@ leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.</p> - <p><b>Livlander</b><br /> + <p><b>Livlander</b><br > <i>Russia</i></p> <p>A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese itself is red, not the rind.</p> - <p><b>Locatelli</b><br /> + <p><b>Locatelli</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino.</p> - <p><b>Lodigiano, or Lombardo</b><br /> + <p><b>Lodigiano, or Lombardo</b><br > <i>Lodi, Italy</i></p> <p>Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.</p> - <p><!-- Page 252 --><a name="Page_252" - id="Page_252"></a> <b>Longhorn</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 252 --><a id="Page_252"></a> <b>Longhorn</b><br > <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.</p> - <p><b>Lorraine</b><br /> + <p><b>Lorraine</b><br > <i>Lorraine, Germany</i></p> <p>Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.</p> - <p><b>Lumburger</b><br /> + <p><b>Lumburger</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because it has no odor.</p> - <p><b>Lunch</b><br /> + <p><b>Lunch</b><br > <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener.</p> - <p><b>Lüneberg</b><br /> + <p><b>Lüneberg</b><br > <i>West Austria</i></p> <p>Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a character of its own.</p> - <p><b>Luxembourg</b><br /> + <p><b>Luxembourg</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_M" - id="AtoZ_M"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_M"></a><br > M</h3> - <p><b>Maconnais</b><br /> + <p><b>Maconnais</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick.</p> - <p><b>Macqueline</b><br /> + <p><b>Macqueline</b><br > <i>Oise, France</i></p> <p>Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper price.</p> - <p><b>Madridejos</b><br /> + <p><b>Madridejos</b><br > <i>Spain</i></p> <p>Named for Madrid where it is made.</p> - <p><b>Magdeburger-kuhkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Magdeburger-kuhkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg.</p> - <p><!-- Page 253 --><a name="Page_253" - id="Page_253"></a> <b>Magerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Holstein + <p><!-- Page 253 --><a id="Page_253"></a> <b>Magerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Holstein Skim Milk</p> - <p><b>Maggenga, Sorte</b><br /> + <p><b>Maggenga, Sorte</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A term for Parmesan types made between April and September.</p> - <p><b>Maguis</b><br /> + <p><b>Maguis</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread.</p> - <p><b>Maigre</b><br /> + <p><b>Maigre</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras and spring Migras.</p> - <p><b>Maile</b><br /> + <p><b>Maile</b><br > <i>Crimea</i></p> <p>Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year.</p> - <p><b>Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)</b><br /> + <p><b>Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)</b><br > <i>Crimea</i></p> <p>Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened.</p> - <p><b>Mainauer</b><br /> + <p><b>Mainauer</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three pounds.</p> - <p><b>Mainzer Hand</b><br /> + <p><b>Mainzer Hand</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes @@ -13232,26 +12391,25 @@ weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft.</p> - <p><b>Majocchino</b><br /> + <p><b>Majocchino</b><br > <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> <p>An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of Incanestrato.</p> - <p><b>Malakoff</b><br /> + <p><b>Malakoff</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or ripe.</p> - <p><b>Manicamp</b><br /> + <p><b>Manicamp</b><br > <i>French Flanders</i></p> <p>In season from October to July.</p> - <p><!-- Page 254 --><a name="Page_254" - id="Page_254"></a> <b>Mano, Queso de</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 254 --><a id="Page_254"></a> <b>Mano, Queso de</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name @@ -13259,14 +12417,14 @@ <p><b>Manor House</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - <p><b>Manteca, Butter</b><br /> + <p><b>Manteca, Butter</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing—not for cooking—which is unusual for any Italian cheese.</p> - <p><b>Manur, or Manuri</b><br /> + <p><b>Manur, or Manuri</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until @@ -13275,39 +12433,38 @@ the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and dried."</p> - <p><b>Maqueé</b><br /> + <p><b>Maqueé</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese.</p> - <p><b>Marches</b><br /> + <p><b>Marches</b><br > <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> <p>Ewe's milk; hard.</p> - <p><b>Margarine</b><br /> + <p><b>Margarine</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>An oily cheese made with oleomargarine.</p> - <p><b>Margherita</b><br /> + <p><b>Margherita</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; cream; small.</p> - <p><b>Marienhofer</b><br /> + <p><b>Marienhofer</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Limburger type. About 4½ inches square and 1½ inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil.</p> - <p><b>Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand</b><br /> + <p><b>Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft; smelly; hand type.</p> - <p><!-- Page 255 --><a name="Page_255" - id="Page_255"></a> <b>Maroilles, Marolles, Marole</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 255 --><a id="Page_255"></a> <b>Maroilles, Marolles, Marole</b><br > <i>Flanders, France</i></p> <p>Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque @@ -13315,19 +12472,19 @@ yellow within. Five inches square and 2¼ inches thick; some larger.</p> - <p><b>Martha Washington Aged Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Martha Washington Aged Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (<i>See under</i> Wisconsin in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.)</p> - <p><b>Mascarpone, or Macherone</b><br /> + <p><b>Mascarpone, or Macherone</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.</p> - <p><b>McIntosh</b><br /> + <p><b>McIntosh</b><br > <i>Alaska</i></p> <p>An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter @@ -13336,92 +12493,91 @@ mining-camp counters." <i>The Cheddar Box</i> by Dean Collins.</p> - <p><b>McLaren's</b><br /> + <p><b>McLaren's</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S A.</p> - <p><b>Meadowbloom</b><br /> + <p><b>Meadowbloom</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.</p> - <p><b>Mecklenburg Skim</b><br /> + <p><b>Mecklenburg Skim</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.</p> - <p><b>Meilbou</b><br /> + <p><b>Meilbou</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Made in the Champagne district.</p> - <p><b>Mein Käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Mein Käse</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.</p> - <p><b>Melfa</b><br /> + <p><b>Melfa</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half moons.</p> - <p><!-- Page 256 --><a name="Page_256" - id="Page_256"></a> <b>Melun</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 256 --><a id="Page_256"></a> <b>Melun</b><br > <i>France</i> Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de Melun.</p> - <p><b>Mentelto</b><br /> + <p><b>Mentelto</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains</p> - <p><b>Merignac</b><br /> + <p><b>Merignac</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Goat.</p> - <p><b>Merovingian</b><br /> + <p><b>Merovingian</b><br > <i>Northeast France</i></p> <p>Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the Merovingian kings.</p> - <p><b>Mersem</b><br /> + <p><b>Mersem</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Lightly cooked.</p> - <p><b>Mesitra</b><br /> + <p><b>Mesitra</b><br > <i>Crimea</i></p> <p>Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk.</p> - <p><b>Mesost</b><br /> + <p><b>Mesost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Whey; sweetish.</p> - <p><b>Metton</b><br /> + <p><b>Metton</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>Season October to June.</p> - <p><b>Meuse</b><br /> + <p><b>Meuse</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; piquant; aromatic.</p> - <p><b>Midget Salami Provolone</b><br /> + <p><b>Midget Salami Provolone</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, too.</p> - <p><b>Mignot</b><br /> + <p><b>Mignot</b><br > <i>Calvados, France</i></p> <p><i>White, No. I:</i> Soft; fresh; in small cubes or @@ -13433,13 +12589,12 @@ goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or distilled.</p> - <p><!-- Page 257 --><a name="Page_257" - id="Page_257"></a> <b>Migras</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 257 --><a id="Page_257"></a> <b>Migras</b></p> <p>Name given to spring Brie—midway between fat winter Gras and thin summer Maigre.</p> - <p><b>Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo</b><br /> + <p><b>Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1½ to @@ -13447,14 +12602,14 @@ <p><b>Milk Mud</b> <i>see</i> Schlickermilch.</p> - <p><b>Millefiori</b><br /> + <p><b>Millefiori</b><br > <i>Milan, Italy</i></p> <p>A Thousand Flowers—as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones.</p> - <p><b>Milltown Bar</b><br /> + <p><b>Milltown Bar</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and @@ -13474,14 +12629,13 @@ <p>U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.</p> - <p><!-- Page 258 --><a name="Page_258" - id="Page_258"></a> <b>Milwaukee Kümmelkäse<br /> + <p><!-- Page 258 --><a id="Page_258"></a> <b>Milwaukee Kümmelkäse<br > and Hand Käse</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and successfully imitated.</p> - <p><b>Minas</b><br /> + <p><b>Minas</b><br > <i>Brazil</i></p> <p>Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is @@ -13491,50 +12645,49 @@ Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello Horizonte.</p> - <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b><br /> + <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals to be proud of.</p> - <p><b>Mintzitra</b><br /> - <i>in Macedonia; and</i><br /> - <b>Mitzithra</b><br /> + <p><b>Mintzitra</b><br > + <i>in Macedonia; and</i><br > + <b>Mitzithra</b><br > <i>in Greece</i></p> <p>Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta.</p> - <p><b>Modena, Monte</b><br /> + <p><b>Modena, Monte</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.</p> - <p><b>Mohawk Limburger Spread</b><br /> + <p><b>Mohawk Limburger Spread</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A brand that comes in one-pound jars.</p> - <p><b>Moliterno</b><br /> + <p><b>Moliterno</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Similar to Caciocavallo. <i>(See.)</i></p> - <p><b>Monceau</b><br /> + <p><b>Monceau</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Semihard, similar to Maroilles.</p> - <p><b>Moncenisio</b><br /> + <p><b>Moncenisio</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Similar to Gorgonzola.</p> - <p><!-- Page 259 --><a name="Page_259" - id="Page_259"></a> <b>Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, - Mondseer Schlosskäse</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 259 --><a id="Page_259"></a> <b>Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, + Mondseer Schlosskäse</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>This little family with a lot of long names is closely @@ -13546,7 +12699,7 @@ by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of whole milk.</p> - <p><b>Money made of cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Money made of cheese</b><br > <i>China</i></p> <p>In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world @@ -13564,26 +12717,25 @@ <p><b>Monk's Head</b> <i>see</i> Tête de Moine.</p> - <p><b>Monostorer</b><br /> + <p><b>Monostorer</b><br > <i>Transylvania, Rumania</i></p> <p>Ewe's milk.</p> - <p><b>Monsieur</b><br /> + <p><b>Monsieur</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; salted; rich in flavor.</p> - <p><!-- Page 260 --><a name="Page_260" - id="Page_260"></a> <b>Monsieur Fromage</b> <i>see</i> + <p><!-- Page 260 --><a id="Page_260"></a> <b>Monsieur Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.</p> - <p><b>Montana</b><br /> + <p><b>Montana</b><br > <i>Catalonia</i></p> <p>A mountain cheese.</p> - <p><b>Montasio</b><br /> + <p><b>Montasio</b><br > <i>Austria and Italy</i></p> <p>Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the @@ -13594,23 +12746,23 @@ longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in America.</p> - <p><b>Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de</b><br > <i>Brittany, France</i></p> <p>A celebrated cheese of Brittany.</p> - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> + <p><b>Montavoner</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the <i>Achittea</i> family.</p> - <p><b>Mont Blanc</b><br /> + <p><b>Mont Blanc</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>An Alpine cheese.</p> - <p><b>Mont Cenis</b><br /> + <p><b>Mont Cenis</b><br > <i>Southeastern France</i> Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semi-hard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel. @@ -13619,18 +12771,17 @@ bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing twenty-five pounds.</p> - <p><b>Mont-des-Cats</b><br /> + <p><b>Mont-des-Cats</b><br > <i>French Flanders</i></p> <p>Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.</p> - <p><!-- Page 261 --><a name="Page_261" - id="Page_261"></a> <b>Montdidier</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 261 --><a id="Page_261"></a> <b>Montdidier</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A fresh cream.</p> - <p><b>Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore</b><br /> + <p><b>Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore</b><br > <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> <p>Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout @@ -13641,13 +12792,13 @@ turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. Didier.</p> - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> + <p><b>Montavoner</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd.</p> - <p><b>Monterey</b><br /> + <p><b>Monterey</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in @@ -13656,7 +12807,7 @@ <p><b>Monterey Jack</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Monthéry</b><br /> + <p><b>Monthéry</b><br > <i>Seine-et-Oise, France</i></p> <p>Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in @@ -13664,28 +12815,27 @@ patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots.</p> - <p><b>Montpellier</b><br /> + <p><b>Montpellier</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Sheep.</p> - <p><b>Moravian</b><br /> + <p><b>Moravian</b><br > <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> <p>Semihard and sharp.</p> - <p><b>Morbier</b><br /> + <p><b>Morbier</b><br > <i>Bresse, France</i></p> <p>In season from November to July.</p> - <p><b>Mostoffait</b><br /> + <p><b>Mostoffait</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A little-known product of Champagne.</p> - <p><!-- Page 262 --><a name="Page_262" - id="Page_262"></a> <b>Mother's milk</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 262 --><a id="Page_262"></a> <b>Mother's milk</b></p> <p>In his book about French varieties, <i>Les Fromages</i>, Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into @@ -13696,19 +12846,19 @@ de femme"</i> and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all of us are cannibals."</p> - <p><b>Mountain</b><br /> + <p><b>Mountain</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Soft; yellow; sharp.</p> <p><b>Mountain, Azuldoch</b> <i>see</i> Azuldoch.</p> - <p><b>Mount Hope</b><br /> + <p><b>Mount Hope</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.</p> - <p><b>Mouse or Mouse Trap</b><br /> + <p><b>Mouse or Mouse Trap</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery @@ -13716,7 +12866,7 @@ and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles.</p> - <p><b>Mozzarella</b><br /> + <p><b>Mozzarella</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; @@ -13727,25 +12877,24 @@ all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste.</p> - <p><b>Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza</b><br /> + <p><b>Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.</p> - <p><!-- Page 263 --><a name="Page_263" - id="Page_263"></a> Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both + <p><!-- Page 263 --><a id="Page_263"></a> Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza.</p> - <p><b>Mozzarinelli</b><br /> + <p><b>Mozzarinelli</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.</p> <p><b>Mrsav</b> <i>see</i> Sir Posny.</p> - <p><b>Münster</b><br /> + <p><b>Münster</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and @@ -13769,17 +12918,16 @@ younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do.</p> - <p><b>Mustard</b><br /> + <p><b>Mustard</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A processed domestic, Gruyère type.</p> - <p><!-- Page 264 --><a name="Page_264" - id="Page_264"></a> <b>Myjithra</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 264 --><a id="Page_264"></a> <b>Myjithra</b></p> <p>Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.</p> - <p><b>Mysost, Mytost</b><br /> + <p><b>Mysost, Mytost</b><br > <i>Scandinavia</i></p> <p>Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the @@ -13789,12 +12937,11 @@ American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_N" - id="AtoZ_N"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_N"></a><br > N</h3> <p><b>Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in - Holland</b><br /> + Holland</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, @@ -13802,134 +12949,131 @@ resemble English Derby.</p> <p><b>Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the - Curate</b><br /> + Curate</b><br > <i>Brittany, France</i></p> <p>A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.</p> - <p><b>Nessel</b><br /> + <p><b>Nessel</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.</p> - <p><b>Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse</b><br /> + <p><b>Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and <a href="#Page_129">Chapter 9</a>.</p> - <p><b>New Forest</b><br /> + <p><b>New Forest</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Cream cheese from the New Forest district.</p> - <p><b>Nieheimer</b><br /> + <p><b>Nieheimer</b><br > <i>Westphalia, Germany</i></p> <p>Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique.</p> - <p><!-- Page 265 --><a name="Page_265" - id="Page_265"></a> <b>Niolo</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 265 --><a id="Page_265"></a> <b>Niolo</b><br > <i>Corsica</i></p> <p>In season from October to May.</p> - <p><b>Noekkelost or Nögelost</b><br /> + <p><b>Noekkelost or Nögelost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a Gouda.</p> - <p><b>Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"</b><br /> + <p><b>Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.</p> - <p><b>Nordost</b><br /> + <p><b>Nordost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.</p> - <p><b>North Wilts</b><br /> + <p><b>North Wilts</b><br > <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> <p>Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale.</p> - <p><b>Nostrale</b><br /> + <p><b>Nostrale</b><br > <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> <p>An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two - kinds:<br /> + kinds:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. <i>Formaggio Duro:</i> - hard, as its name says, made in the spring</span><br /> + hard, as its name says, made in the spring</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">when the cows are in the - valley.</span><br /> + valley.</span><br > II. <i>Formaggio Tenero:</i> soft and richer, summer-made with - milk<br /> + milk<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from lush mountain-grazing.</span></p> - <p><b>Notruschki (cheese bread)</b><br /> + <p><b>Notruschki (cheese bread)</b><br > <i>Russia</i></p> <p>Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.</p> - <p><b>Nova Scotia Smoked</b><br /> + <p><b>Nova Scotia Smoked</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor.</p> - <p><b>Nuworld</b><br /> + <p><b>Nuworld</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, heavily waxed portions - <!-- Page 266 --><a name="Page_266" - id="Page_266"></a> to preserve all of its fine, full aroma + <!-- Page 266 --><a id="Page_266"></a> to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and flavor.</p> <p>A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new species or not.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_O" - id="AtoZ_O"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_O"></a><br > O</h3> <p><b>Oaxaca</b> <i>see</i> Asadero.</p> - <p><b>Oka, or La Trappe</b><br /> + <p><b>Oka, or La Trappe</b><br > <i>Canada</i></p> <p>Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated in France. <i>See</i> Trappe.</p> - <p><b>Old English Club</b><br /> + <p><b>Old English Club</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of.</p> - <p><b>Old Heidelberg</b><br /> + <p><b>Old Heidelberg</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.</p> - <p><b>Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile</b><br /> + <p><b>Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron.</p> - <p><b>Olive Cream</b><br /> + <p><b>Olive Cream</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival @@ -13937,20 +13081,19 @@ bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese.</p> - <p><b>Olivet</b><br /> + <p><b>Olivet</b><br > <i>Orléans, France</i></p> - <p>Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:<br /> + <p>Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Fresh; summer, white; cream - cheese.</span><br /> + cheese.</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Olivet-Bleu—mold - inoculated; half-ripened.</span><br /> + inoculated; half-ripened.</span><br > III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June.</p> - <p><!-- Page 267 --><a name="Page_267" - id="Page_267"></a> <b>Olmützer Quargel, also - Olmützer Bierkäse</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 267 --><a id="Page_267"></a> <b>Olmützer Quargel, also + Olmützer Bierkäse</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, @@ -13960,22 +13103,22 @@ are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar.</p> - <p><b>Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour</b><br /> + <p><b>Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour</b><br > <i>Béarn, France</i></p> <p>In season from October to May.</p> - <p><b>Onion with garlic links</b><br /> + <p><b>Onion with garlic links</b><br > <i>U.S.A</i></p> <p>Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.</p> - <p><b>Oporto</b><br /> + <p><b>Oporto</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.</p> - <p><b>Orkney</b><br /> + <p><b>Orkney</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in @@ -13984,59 +13127,58 @@ Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes.</p> - <p><b>Orléans</b><br /> + <p><b>Orléans</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy.</p> - <p><b>Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach</b><br /> + <p><b>Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach</b><br > <i>Caucasus</i></p> - <p>Comes in two forms:<br /> + <p>Comes in two forms:<br > <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Soft and mild sheep or - cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.</span><br /> + cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.</span><br > II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type - made of<br /> + made of<br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">sheep milk is the better.</span></p> - <p><b>Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka</b><br /> + <p><b>Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka</b><br > <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> <p>Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - <p><!-- Page 268 --><a name="Page_268" - id="Page_268"></a> <b>Oswego</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 268 --><a id="Page_268"></a> <b>Oswego</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>New York State Cheddar of distinction.</p> - <p><b>Oude Kaas</b><br /> + <p><b>Oude Kaas</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Popular in France as Boule de Lille.</p> - <p><b>Oust, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Oust, Fromage de</b><br > <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> <p>Of the Camembert family.</p> - <p><b>Ovár</b><br /> + <p><b>Ovár</b><br > <i>Hungarian</i></p> <p>Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit.</p> - <p><b>Oveji Sir</b><br /> + <p><b>Oveji Sir</b><br > <i>Yugoslavian Alpine</i></p> <p>Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. Weight six to ten pounds.</p> - <p><b>Oxfordshire</b><br /> + <p><b>Oxfordshire</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because @@ -14056,28 +13198,26 @@ had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"</p> </div> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_P" - id="AtoZ_P"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_P"></a><br > P</h3> - <p><b>Pabstett</b><br /> + <p><b>Pabstett</b><br > <i>U.S.A</i></p> <p>The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has long since been - <!-- Page 269 --><a name="Page_269" - id="Page_269"></a> done away with, the relation of the + <!-- Page 269 --><a id="Page_269"></a> done away with, the relation of the processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular beer.</p> - <p><b>Packet cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Packet cheese</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package or packet it comes in.</p> - <p><b>Paglia</b><br /> + <p><b>Paglia</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of @@ -14085,34 +13225,34 @@ further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type.</p> - <p><b>Pago</b><br /> + <p><b>Pago</b><br > <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in weights from ½ to eight pounds.</p> - <p><b>Paladru</b><br /> + <p><b>Paladru</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>In season from November to May.</p> - <p><b>Palpuszta</b><br /> + <p><b>Palpuszta</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Fairly strong Limburger type.</p> - <p><b>Pannarone</b><br /> + <p><b>Pannarone</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining.</p> - <p><b>Parenica</b><br /> + <p><b>Parenica</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Sheep. Caciocavallo type.</p> - <p><b>Parmesan, Parmigiano</b><br /> + <p><b>Parmesan, Parmigiano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese @@ -14122,28 +13262,27 @@ garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a pestle.</p> - <p><!-- Page 270 --><a name="Page_270" - id="Page_270"></a> <b>Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème - de Passau</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 270 --><a id="Page_270"></a> <b>Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème + de Passau</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau.</p> - <p><b>Pasta Cotta</b><br /> + <p><b>Pasta Cotta</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>The ball or <i>grana</i> of curd used in making Parmesan.</p> - <p><b>Pasta Filata</b><br /> + <p><b>Pasta Filata</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which Grana is chopped.(<i>See</i> Formaggi di Pasta Filata.)</p> - <p><b>Pasteurized Process Cheese Food</b><br /> + <p><b>Pasteurized Process Cheese Food</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented @@ -14151,28 +13290,28 @@ would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his hand.</p> - <p><b>Pastorella</b><br /> + <p><b>Pastorella</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, rich table cheese.</p> - <p><b>Patagras</b><br /> + <p><b>Patagras</b><br > <i>Cuba</i></p> <p>Similar to Gouda.</p> - <p><b>Pecorino</b><br /> + <p><b>Pecorino</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular.</p> - <p><b>Pelardon de Rioms</b><br /> + <p><b>Pelardon de Rioms</b><br > <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> <p>A goat cheese in season from May to November.</p> - <p><b>Peneteleu</b><br /> + <p><b>Peneteleu</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>One of the international Caciocavallo family.</p> @@ -14185,20 +13324,19 @@ to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface, snow-white <i>Penicillium Album</i>.</p> - <p><b>Pennich</b><br /> + <p><b>Pennich</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.</p> - <p><!-- Page 271 --><a name="Page_271" - id="Page_271"></a> <b>Pennsylvania Hand Cheese</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 271 --><a id="Page_271"></a> <b>Pennsylvania Hand Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or cooked.</p> - <p><b>Penroque</b><br /> + <p><b>Penroque</b><br > <i>Pennsylvania, U.S.A</i></p> <p>Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with <i>Penicillium @@ -14208,7 +13346,7 @@ more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother nature.</p> - <p><b>Pepato</b><br /> + <p><b>Pepato</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips @@ -14216,25 +13354,25 @@ <p>An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.</p> - <p><b>Persillé de Savoie</b><br /> + <p><b>Persillé de Savoie</b><br > <i>Savoie, France</i></p> <p>In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.</p> - <p><b>Petafina, La</b><br /> + <p><b>Petafina, La</b><br > <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> <p>Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe.</p> - <p><b>Petit Carré</b><br /> + <p><b>Petit Carré</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial.</p> - <p><b>Petit Gruyère</b><br /> + <p><b>Petit Gruyère</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made @@ -14244,19 +13382,18 @@ a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at home.</p> - <p><!-- Page 272 --><a name="Page_272" - id="Page_272"></a> <b>Petit Moule</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 272 --><a id="Page_272"></a> <b>Petit Moule</b><br > <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> <p>A pet name for Coulommiers.</p> - <p><b>Petit Suisse</b><br /> + <p><b>Petit Suisse</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel - and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:<br /> + and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gros—a largest - cylinder</span><br /> + cylinder</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Demi—a small one</span></p> @@ -14265,67 +13402,66 @@ Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is ideal with honey.</p> - <p><b>Petit Vacher</b><br /> + <p><b>Petit Vacher</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese.</p> - <p><b>Petits Bourgognes</b><br /> + <p><b>Petits Bourgognes</b><br > <i>Lower Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning with B are Banons and Bressans.</p> - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les</b><br /> + <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.</p> - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> + <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chèvre</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of Provence.</p> - <p><b>Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers</b><br /> + <p><b>Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers</b><br > <i>Poitou, France</i></p> <p>Clotted milk in small pots.</p> - <p><b>Pfister</b><br /> + <p><b>Pfister</b><br > <i>Cham, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to manufacture it, in Chain.</p> - <p><b>Philadelphia Cream</b><br /> + <p><b>Philadelphia Cream</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. Made in New York State in spite of its name.</p> - <p><!-- Page 273 --><a name="Page_273" - id="Page_273"></a> <b>Picnic</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 273 --><a id="Page_273"></a> <b>Picnic</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home.</p> - <p><b>Picodon de Dieule Fit</b><br /> + <p><b>Picodon de Dieule Fit</b><br > <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> <p>In season from May to December.</p> - <p><b>Pie, Fromage à la</b><br /> + <p><b>Pie, Fromage à la</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese type.</p> - <p><b>Pie Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Pie Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A</i></p> <p>An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be @@ -14340,7 +13476,7 @@ nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar."</p> - <p><b>Pimiento</b><br /> + <p><b>Pimiento</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits @@ -14355,40 +13491,39 @@ <p><b>Pineapple</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><!-- Page 274 --><a name="Page_274" - id="Page_274"></a> <b>Piora</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 274 --><a id="Page_274"></a> <b>Piora</b><br > <i>Tessin, Switzerland</i></p> - <p>Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and + <p>Hard cheese with small eyes. Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's.</p> - <p><b>Pippen</b><br /> + <p><b>Pippen</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - <p>Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll</p> + <p>Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll.</p> - <p><b>Pithiviers au Foin</b><br /> + <p><b>Pithiviers au Foin</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May.</p> - <p><b>Poitiers</b><br /> + <p><b>Poitiers</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.</p> - <p><b>Pommel</b><br /> + <p><b>Pommel</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>All year. Double cream; unsalted.</p> - <p><b>Ponta Delgada</b><br /> + <p><b>Ponta Delgada</b><br > <i>Azores</i></p> <p>Semifirm; delicate; piquant</p> - <p><b>Pontgibaud</b><br /> + <p><b>Pontgibaud</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.</p> @@ -14399,7 +13534,7 @@ Huge-like Romanticism." (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow."</p> - <p><b>Poona</b><br /> + <p><b>Poona</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. @@ -14409,23 +13544,22 @@ <p><b>Port-Salut, Port du Salut</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Port, Blue Links</b><br /> + <p><b>Port, Blue Links</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links.</p> - <p><b>Pot cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Pot cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, - almonds and macaroons. <!-- Page 275 --><a name="Page_275" - id="Page_275"></a> In Ireland it was used in connection with + almonds and macaroons. <!-- Page 275 --><a id="Page_275"></a> In Ireland it was used in connection with the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.</p> - <p><b>Potato</b><br /> + <p><b>Potato</b><br > <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat @@ -14443,31 +13577,30 @@ essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.</p> - <p><b>Potato Pepper</b><br /> + <p><b>Potato Pepper</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, only not so stony hard.</p> - <p><b>Pots de Crème St. Gervais</b><br /> + <p><b>Pots de Crème St. Gervais</b><br > <i>St. Gervais-sur-mer, France</i></p> <p>The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.</p> - <p><b>Pouligny-St. Pierre</b><br /> + <p><b>Pouligny-St. Pierre</b><br > <i>Touraine, France</i></p> <p>A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to December.</p> - <p><b>Poustagnax, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Poustagnax, le</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.</p> - <p><!-- Page 276 --><a name="Page_276" - id="Page_276"></a> <b>Prato</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 276 --><a id="Page_276"></a> <b>Prato</b><br > <i>Brazil</i></p> <p>Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation @@ -14476,13 +13609,13 @@ district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long ago.</p> - <p><b>Prattigau</b><br /> + <p><b>Prattigau</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home valley.</p> - <p><b>Prestost or Saaland Flarr</b><br /> + <p><b>Prestost or Saaland Flarr</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Similar to Gouda, but unique—the curd being mixed with @@ -14490,50 +13623,49 @@ cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey.</p> - <p><b>Primavera, Spring</b><br /> + <p><b>Primavera, Spring</b><br > <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> <p>Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a springlike fragrance.</p> - <p><b>Primost</b><br /> + <p><b>Primost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.</p> - <p><b>Primula</b><br /> + <p><b>Primula</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added.</p> - <p><b>Processed</b><br /> + <p><b>Processed</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic mass.</p> - <p><b>Promessi</b><br /> + <p><b>Promessi</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Small soft-cream cheese.</p> - <p><b>Provatura</b><br /> + <p><b>Provatura</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.</p> - <p><!-- Page 277 --><a name="Page_277" - id="Page_277"></a> <b>Providence</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 277 --><a id="Page_277"></a> <b>Providence</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.</p> <p><b>Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, - Provoletti, and Provolino</b><br /> + Provoletti, and Provolino</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known @@ -14550,53 +13682,51 @@ decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.</p> - <p><b>P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit</b><br /> + <p><b>P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit</b><br > <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> <p>Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted.</p> - <p><b>Puant Macere</b><br /> + <p><b>Puant Macere</b><br > <i>Flanders</i></p> <p>"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November to June.</p> - <p><b>Pultost or Knaost</b><br /> + <p><b>Pultost or Knaost</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.</p> - <p><b>Pusztador</b><br /> + <p><b>Pusztador</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent.</p> - <p><b>Pyrenees, Fromage des</b><br /> + <p><b>Pyrenees, Fromage des</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A fine mountain variety.</p> - <h3><!-- Page 278 --><a name="Page_278" - id="Page_278"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Q" - id="AtoZ_Q"></a><br /> + <h3><!-- Page 278 --><a id="Page_278"></a> <a id="AtoZ_Q"></a><br > Q</h3> - <p><b>Quartiolo</b><br /> + <p><b>Quartiolo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September and November.</p> - <p><b>Quacheq</b><br /> + <p><b>Quacheq</b><br > <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> <p>Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.</p> <p><b>Quargel</b> <i>see</i> Olmützer.</p> - <p><b>Quartirolo</b><br /> + <p><b>Quartirolo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, cow's milk.</p> @@ -14606,17 +13736,17 @@ Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella.</p> - <p><b>Queso Anejo</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso Anejo</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>White, dry, skim milk.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Bola</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Bola</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Whole milk, similar to Edam.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Cavallo</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Cavallo</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>Pear-shaped cheese.</p> @@ -14624,46 +13754,45 @@ <p><b>Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida</b> <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Cincho</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Cincho</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Crema</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Crema</b><br > <i>Costa Rica</i></p> <p>Similar to soft Brick.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese</b><br > <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> <p>Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other.</p> - <p><!-- Page 279 --><a name="Page_279" - id="Page_279"></a> <b>Queso de Mano</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 279 --><a id="Page_279"></a> <b>Queso de Mano</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.</p> - <p><b>Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso del Pais, Queso de la Tierra</b><br > <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> <p>White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,</p> - <p><b>Queso de Prensa</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Prensa</b><br > <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> <p>The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after ripening two or three months.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Puna</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Puna</b><br > <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> <p>Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - <p><b>Queso de Tapara</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso de Tapara</b><br > <i>Venezuela</i></p> <p>Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called <i>tapara</i> from @@ -14671,7 +13800,7 @@ fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in <i>Bueno Provecho.</i></p> - <p><b>Queso Fresco</b><br /> + <p><b>Queso Fresco</b><br > <i>El Salvador</i></p> <p>Cottage-cheese type.</p> @@ -14681,64 +13810,62 @@ <p><b>Queyras</b> <i>see</i> Champoléon.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_R" - id="AtoZ_R"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_R"></a><br > R</h3> - <p><b>Rabaçal</b><br /> + <p><b>Rabaçal</b><br > <i>Coimbra, Portugal</i></p> <p>Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.</p> - <p><b>Rabbit Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Rabbit Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.</p> - <p><b>Radener</b><br /> + <p><b>Radener</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds.</p> - <p><!-- Page 280 --><a name="Page_280" - id="Page_280"></a> <b>Radolfzeller Cream</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 280 --><a id="Page_280"></a> <b>Radolfzeller Cream</b><br > <i>Germany, Switzerland, Austria</i></p> <p>Similar to Münster.</p> <p><b>Ragnit</b> <i>see</i> Tilsit.</p> - <p><b>Rahmkäse, Allgäuer</b><br /> + <p><b>Rahmkäse, Allgäuer</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Cream.</p> - <p><b>Rainbow</b><br /> + <p><b>Rainbow</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Mild; mellow.</p> - <p><b>Ramadoux</b><br /> + <p><b>Ramadoux</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé</p> - <p><b>Rammil or Rammel</b><br /> + <p><b>Rammil or Rammel</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today.</p> - <p><b>Rangiport</b><br /> + <p><b>Rangiport</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.</p> - <p><b>Rarush Durmar</b><br /> + <p><b>Rarush Durmar</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Brittle; mellow; nutty.</p> @@ -14748,59 +13875,58 @@ <p>The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very popular.</p> - <p><b>Raviggiolo</b><br /> + <p><b>Raviggiolo</b><br > <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> <p>Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.</p> - <p><b>Rayon or Raper</b><br /> + <p><b>Rayon or Raper</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning.</p> - <p><b>Reblochon or Roblochon</b><br /> + <p><b>Reblochon or Roblochon</b><br > <i>Savoy</i></p> <p>Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section.</p> - <p><!-- Page 281 --><a name="Page_281" - id="Page_281"></a> <b>Récollet de - Gérardmer</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 281 --><a id="Page_281"></a> <b>Récollet de + Gérardmer</b><br > <i>Vosges, France</i></p> <p>A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from - October to April</p> + October to April.</p> - <p><b>Red</b><br /> + <p><b>Red</b><br > <i>Russia</i></p> <p><i>see</i> Livlander.</p> - <p><b>Red Balls</b><br /> + <p><b>Red Balls</b><br > <i>Dutch</i></p> <p><i>see</i> Edam.</p> <p><b>Reggiano</b> <i>see</i> Grana.</p> - <p><b>Regianito</b><br /> + <p><b>Regianito</b><br > <i>Argentine</i></p> <p>Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Reichkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Reichkäse</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one.</p> - <p><b>Reindeer</b><br /> + <p><b>Reindeer</b><br > <i>Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway</i></p> <p>In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from @@ -14808,42 +13934,41 @@ production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends.</p> - <p><b>Relish cream cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Relish cream cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.</p> - <p><b>Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant</b><br /> + <p><b>Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to June.</p> - <p><b>Requeijão</b><br /> + <p><b>Requeijão</b><br > <i>Portugal and Brazil</i></p> <p>Recooked.</p> <p><b>Resurrection</b> <i>see</i> Welsh.</p> - <p><b>Rhubarbe</b><br /> + <p><b>Rhubarbe</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our pie plant.</p> - <p><!-- Page 282 --><a name="Page_282" - id="Page_282"></a> <b>Riceys</b> <i>see</i> Champenois.</p> + <p><!-- Page 282 --><a id="Page_282"></a> <b>Riceys</b> <i>see</i> Champenois.</p> - <p><b>Ricotta Romano</b><br /> + <p><b>Ricotta Romano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.</p> - <p><b>Ricotta</b><br /> + <p><b>Ricotta</b><br > <i>Italy and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, @@ -14858,29 +13983,29 @@ hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating.</p> - <p><b>Riesengebirge</b><br /> + <p><b>Riesengebirge</b><br > <i>Bohemia</i></p> <p>Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's northern mountains.</p> - <p><b>Rinnen</b><br /> + <p><b>Rinnen</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain.</p> - <p><b>Riola</b><br /> + <p><b>Riola</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to ripen, two to three months.</p> - <p><b>Robbiole<br /> - Robbiola<br /> - Robbiolini</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy</i><br /> + <p><b>Robbiole<br > + Robbiola<br > + Robbiolini</b><br > + <i>Lombardy</i><br > <i>Italian</i></p> <p>Very similar to Crescenza (<i>see</i>.) Alpine winter cheese @@ -14888,48 +14013,47 @@ eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at just under four ounces.</p> - <p><!-- Page 283 --><a name="Page_283" - id="Page_283"></a> <b>Roblochon, le</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 283 --><a id="Page_283"></a> <b>Roblochon, le</b></p> <p>Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.</p> - <p><b>Rocamadur</b><br /> + <p><b>Rocamadur</b><br > <i>Limousin, France</i></p> <p>Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May.</p> - <p><b>Rocroi</b><br /> + <p><b>Rocroi</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>From the Champagne district.</p> - <p><b>Rokadur</b><br /> + <p><b>Rokadur</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Imitation Roquefort.</p> - <p><b>Roll</b><br /> + <p><b>Roll</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds.</p> - <p><b>Rollot or Rigolot</b><br /> + <p><b>Rollot or Rigolot</b><br > <i>Picardy and Montdidier, France</i></p> <p>Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only cheese.</p> - <p><b>Roma</b><br /> + <p><b>Roma</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft cream.</p> <p><b>Romadour, Romadura, and other national - spellings</b><br /> + spellings</b><br > <i>Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland</i></p> <p>A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to @@ -14937,73 +14061,72 @@ refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries.</p> - <p><b>Romano, Romano Vacchino</b><br /> + <p><b>Romano, Romano Vacchino</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> - <p>Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.</p> + <p>Strong flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.</p> - <p><b>Romanello</b><br /> + <p><b>Romanello</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating cheese, cured one year.</p> - <p><b>Roquefort</b><br /> + <p><b>Roquefort</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><!-- Page 284 --><a name="Page_284" - id="Page_284"></a> <b>Roquefort cheese dressing, - bottled</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 284 --><a id="Page_284"></a> <b>Roquefort cheese dressing, + bottled</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.</p> - <p><b>Roquefort de Corse</b><br /> + <p><b>Roquefort de Corse</b><br > <i>Corsica, France</i></p> <p>This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening.</p> - <p><b>Roquefort de Tournemire</b><br /> + <p><b>Roquefort de Tournemire</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal Roquefort name.</p> - <p><b>Rougerets, les</b><br /> + <p><b>Rougerets, les</b><br > <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> <p>A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically every variety is made with goat milk.</p> - <p><b>Rouennais</b><br /> + <p><b>Rouennais</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten from October to May.</p> - <p><b>Round Dutch</b><br /> + <p><b>Round Dutch</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>An early name for Edam.</p> - <p><b>Rouy, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Rouy, le</b><br > <i>Normandy, France</i></p> <p>From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.</p> - <p><b>Royal Brabant</b><br /> + <p><b>Royal Brabant</b><br > <i>Belgium</i></p> <p>Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.</p> - <p><b>Royal Sentry</b><br /> + <p><b>Royal Sentry</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who @@ -15014,19 +14137,18 @@ non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium phosphate.</p> - <p><b>Ruffec, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Ruffec, Fromage de</b><br > <i>Saintonge, France</i></p> <p>Fresh; goat.</p> - <p><!-- Page 285 --><a name="Page_285" - id="Page_285"></a> <b>Runesten</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 285 --><a id="Page_285"></a> <b>Runesten</b><br > <i>Denmark and U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.</p> - <p><b>Rush Cream Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Rush Cream Cheese</b><br > <i>England and France</i></p> <p>Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are @@ -15048,19 +14170,17 @@ and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or baskets should not be used a second time.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_S" - id="AtoZ_S"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_S"></a><br > S</h3> - <p><b>Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost</b><br /> + <p><b>Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with whiskey.</p> - <p><!-- Page 286 --><a name="Page_286" - id="Page_286"></a> <b>Saanen</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 286 --><a id="Page_286"></a> <b>Saanen</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the @@ -15073,7 +14193,7 @@ eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for ripening is six years, but some take nine.</p> - <p><b>Sage, or Green cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Sage, or Green cheese</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is @@ -15081,7 +14201,7 @@ to milk by the method described in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Affrique</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Affrique</b><br > <i>Guyenne, France</i></p> <p>This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of @@ -15092,17 +14212,17 @@ of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped abroad.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Agathon</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Agathon</b><br > <i>Brittany, France</i></p> <p>Season, October to July.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Amand-Montrond</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Amand-Montrond</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Benoit</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Benoit</b><br > <i>Loiret, France</i></p> <p>Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to @@ -15110,8 +14230,7 @@ ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.</p> - <p><!-- Page 287 --><a name="Page_287" - id="Page_287"></a> <b>Saint-Claude</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 287 --><a id="Page_287"></a> <b>Saint-Claude</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a @@ -15122,64 +14241,63 @@ <p><b>Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Florentin</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Florentin</b><br > <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> <p>A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Flour</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Flour</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Gelay</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Gelay</b><br > <i>Poitou, France</i></p> <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> <p><b>Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint - Gervais</b><br /> + Gervais</b><br > <i>see</i> Pots de Crème.</p> <p><b>Saint-Heray</b> <i>see</i> La Mothe.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Honoré</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Honoré</b><br > <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> <p>A small goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Hubert</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Hubert</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Similar to Brie.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Ivel</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Ivel</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Fresh dairy cream cheese containing <i>Lactobacillus acidophilus</i>. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with <i>Bacillus Bulgaricus.</i></p> - <p><b>Saint-Laurent</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Laurent</b><br > <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> <p>Mountain sheep cheese.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Lizier</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Lizier</b><br > <i>Béarn, France</i></p> <p>A white, curd cheese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 288 --><a name="Page_288" - id="Page_288"></a> <b>Saint-Loup, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 288 --><a id="Page_288"></a> <b>Saint-Loup, Fromage de</b><br > <i>Poitou and Vendée, France</i></p> <p>Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September</p> - <p><b>Saint-Marcellin</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Marcellin</b><br > <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> <p>One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by ¾ @@ -15187,12 +14305,12 @@ December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially a goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Moritz</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Moritz</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Soft and tangy.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.</p> @@ -15205,42 +14323,41 @@ <p><b>Saint-Reine</b> <i>see</i> Alise.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Rémy, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Rémy, Fromage de</b><br > <i>Haute-Saône, France</i></p> <p>Soft Pont l'Evêque type.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Stefano</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Stefano</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Bel Paese type.</p> - <p><b>Saint-Winx</b><br /> + <p><b>Saint-Winx</b><br > <i>Flanders, France</i></p> <p>The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products.</p> - <p><b>Sainte-Anne d'Auray</b><br /> + <p><b>Sainte-Anne d'Auray</b><br > <i>Brittany, France</i></p> <p>A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.</p> - <p><b>Sainte-Marie</b><br /> + <p><b>Sainte-Marie</b><br > <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> <p>A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.</p> - <p><!-- Page 289 --><a name="Page_289" - id="Page_289"></a> <b>Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de - Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 289 --><a id="Page_289"></a> <b>Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de + Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay.</p> - <p><b>Salamana</b><br /> + <p><b>Salamana</b><br > <i>Southern Europe</i></p> <p>Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, @@ -15248,7 +14365,7 @@ bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge.</p> - <p><b>Salame</b><br /> + <p><b>Salame</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. @@ -15257,17 +14374,17 @@ links—it has became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout America.</p> - <p><b>Salers, Bleu de</b><br /> + <p><b>Salers, Bleu de</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>One of the very good French Blues.</p> - <p><b>Saligny</b><br /> + <p><b>Saligny</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>White cheese made from sheep's milk.</p> - <p><b>Saloio</b><br /> + <p><b>Saloio</b><br > <i>Lisbon, Portugal</i></p> <p>An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short @@ -15275,13 +14392,13 @@ quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms.</p> - <p><b>Salonite</b><br /> + <p><b>Salonite</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago.</p> - <p><b>Saltee</b><br /> + <p><b>Saltee</b><br > <i>Ireland</i></p> <p>Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The @@ -15293,8 +14410,7 @@ <p>U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse.</p> - <p><!-- Page 290 --><a name="Page_290" - id="Page_290"></a> <b>Samsö</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 290 --><a id="Page_290"></a> <b>Samsö</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is @@ -15308,29 +14424,29 @@ <p><b>Sapsago</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Sardegna</b><br /> + <p><b>Sardegna</b><br > <i>Sardinia</i></p> <p>A Romano type made in Sardinia.</p> - <p><b>Sardinian</b><br /> + <p><b>Sardinian</b><br > <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> <p>The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy.</p> - <p><b>Sardo</b><br /> + <p><b>Sardo</b><br > <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.</p> - <p><b>Sarraz or Sarrazin</b><br /> + <p><b>Sarraz or Sarrazin</b><br > <i>Vaud, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Roquefort type.</p> - <p><b>Sassenage</b><br /> + <p><b>Sassenage</b><br > <i>Dauphiny, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a @@ -15339,30 +14455,29 @@ sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated.</p> - <p><b>Satz</b><br /> + <p><b>Satz</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Hard cheese made in Saxony.</p> - <p><b>Savoy, Savoie</b><br /> + <p><b>Savoy, Savoie</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy.</p> - <p><b>Sbrinz</b><br /> + <p><b>Sbrinz</b><br > <i>Argentine</i></p> <p>Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.</p> - <p><!-- Page 291 --><a name="Page_291" - id="Page_291"></a> <b>Scanno</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 291 --><a id="Page_291"></a> <b>Scanno</b><br > <i>Abruzzi, Italy</i></p> <p>Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.</p> - <p><b>Scarmorze or Scamorze</b><br /> + <p><b>Scarmorze or Scamorze</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear @@ -15376,13 +14491,13 @@ <p><b>Schabziger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)</b><br /> + <p><b>Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.</p> - <p><b>Schamser, or Rheinwald</b><br /> - <i>Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland</i></p> + <p><b>Schamser, or Rheinwald</b><br > + <i>Canton Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> <p>Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six pounds.</p> @@ -15392,7 +14507,7 @@ <p>This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.</p> - <p><b>Schlesische Sauermilchkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Schlesische Sauermilchkäse</b><br > <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> <p>Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on @@ -15401,19 +14516,18 @@ ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week.</p> - <p><b>Schlesischer Weichquarg</b><br /> + <p><b>Schlesischer Weichquarg</b><br > <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> <p>Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-<!-- Page 292 --> - <a name="Page_292" - id="Page_292"></a>four hours, then kneaded and shaped by + <a id="Page_292"></a>four hours, then kneaded and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand cheese odor develops.</p> - <p><b>Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck</b><br /> + <p><b>Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a @@ -15428,35 +14542,35 @@ <p><b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b> <i>see</i> Liederkranz, <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - <p><b>Schönland</b><br /> + <p><b>Schoenland</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land."</p> - <p><b>Schützenkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Schützenkäse</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.</p> - <p><b>Shottengsied</b><br /> + <p><b>Shottengsied</b><br > <i>Alpine</i></p> <p>A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.</p> - <p><b>Schwarzenberger</b><br /> + <p><b>Schwarzenberger</b><br > <i>Hungary and Bohemia</i></p> <p>One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to ripen.</p> - <p><b>Schweizerkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Schweizerkäse</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>German for Swiss cheese. (<i>See</i> Emmentaler.)</p> - <p><b>Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is @@ -15465,19 +14579,18 @@ <p><b>Select Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_158">Chapter 12</a>.</p> - <p><b>Selles-sur Cher</b><br /> + <p><b>Selles-sur Cher</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.</p> - <p><!-- Page 293 --><a name="Page_293" - id="Page_293"></a> <b>Sénecterre</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 293 --><a id="Page_293"></a> <b>Sénecterre</b><br > <i>Puy-de-Dôme, France</i></p> <p>Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1½ pounds.</p> - <p><b>Septmoncel</b><br /> + <p><b>Septmoncel</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, @@ -15485,7 +14598,7 @@ some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.</p> - <p><b>Serbian</b><br /> + <p><b>Serbian</b><br > <i>Serbia</i></p> <p>Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a @@ -15502,7 +14615,7 @@ <p><b>Serbian Butter</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> <p><b>Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain - Range)</b><br /> + Range)</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in @@ -15516,15 +14629,14 @@ <p><b>Sharp-flavored cheese</b></p> <p>U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano - Fecorino, Old <!-- Page 294 --><a name="Page_294" - id="Page_294"></a> Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and + Fecorino, Old <!-- Page 294 --><a id="Page_294"></a> Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval.</p> <p><b>Shefford</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter 2</a>.</p> - <p><b>Silesian</b><br /> + <p><b>Silesian</b><br > <i>Poland and Germany</i></p> <p>White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see @@ -15538,7 +14650,7 @@ both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France.</p> - <p><b>Sir Iz Mjesine</b><br /> + <p><b>Sir Iz Mjesine</b><br > <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over @@ -15549,12 +14661,12 @@ or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen.</p> - <p><b>Sir Mastny</b><br /> + <p><b>Sir Mastny</b><br > <i>Montenegro</i></p> <p>Fresh sheep milk.</p> - <p><b>Sir Posny</b><br /> + <p><b>Sir Posny</b><br > <i>Montenegro</i></p> <p>Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also @@ -15564,13 +14676,12 @@ <p><b>Sir, Warshawski</b> <i>see</i> Warshawski Syr.</p> - <p><!-- Page 295 --><a name="Page_295" - id="Page_295"></a> <b>Siraz</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 295 --><a id="Page_295"></a> <b>Siraz</b><br > <i>Serbia</i></p> <p>Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.</p> - <p><b>Skyr</b><br /> + <p><b>Skyr</b><br > <i>Iceland</i></p> <p>The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between @@ -15581,7 +14692,7 @@ take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives you diarrhea."</p> - <p><b>Slipcote, or Colwick</b><br /> + <p><b>Slipcote, or Colwick</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is @@ -15593,7 +14704,7 @@ cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire.</p> - <p><b>Smältost</b><br /> + <p><b>Smältost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>Soft and melting.</p> @@ -15603,7 +14714,7 @@ <p>Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for cottage cheese.</p> - <p><b>Smoked Block</b><br /> + <p><b>Smoked Block</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>A well-smoked cheese in block form.</p> @@ -15611,21 +14722,20 @@ <p><b>Smoked Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella Affumicata.</p> - <p><b>Smoked Szekely</b><br /> + <p><b>Smoked Szekely</b><br > <i>Hungary</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked.</p> - <p><!-- Page 296 --><a name="Page_296" - id="Page_296"></a> <b>Smokelet</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 296 --><a id="Page_296"></a> <b>Smokelet</b><br > <i>Norway</i>.</p> <p>A small smoked cheese.</p> <p><b>Soaked-curd cheese</b> <i>see</i> Washed-curd cheese.</p> - <p><b>Sorbais</b><br /> + <p><b>Sorbais</b><br > <i>Champagne, France</i></p> <p>Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown @@ -15636,12 +14746,12 @@ <p>Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.</p> - <p><b>Soumaintrain, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Soumaintrain, Fromage de</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - <p><b>Soybean</b><br /> + <p><b>Soybean</b><br > <i>China</i></p> <p>Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often @@ -15650,7 +14760,7 @@ rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver.</p> - <p><b>Spalen or Stringer</b><br /> + <p><b>Spalen or Stringer</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of @@ -15660,68 +14770,66 @@ <p><b>Sperrkäse</b> <i>see</i> Dry.</p> - <p><b>Spiced</b><br /> + <p><b>Spiced</b><br > <i>International</i></p> <p>Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost - <!-- Page 297 --><a name="Page_297" - id="Page_297"></a> or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in + <!-- Page 297 --><a id="Page_297"></a> or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, etc.</p> - <p><b>Spiced and Spiced Spreads</b><br /> + <p><b>Spiced and Spiced Spreads</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less than 1½ ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese.</p> - <p><b>Spiced Fondue</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.<br /> + <p><b>Spiced Fondue</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.<br > <i>France</i></p> - <p><b>Spitz Spitzkase</b><br /> + <p><b>Spitz Spitzkase</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, Limburger-like. <i>see</i> Backsteiner.</p> - <p><b>Sposi</b><br /> + <p><b>Sposi</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; small; cream.</p> - <p><b>Spra</b><br /> + <p><b>Spra</b><br > <i>Greek</i></p> <p>Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made principally from sheep milk.</p> - <p><b>Stängenkase</b><br /> + <p><b>Stängenkase</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Limburger type.</p> - <p>Stein Käse<br /> + <p>Stein Käse<br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after the old German original.</p> - <p><b>Steinbuscher-Käse</b><br /> + <p><b>Steinbuscher-Käse</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at home but little known abroad.</p> - <p><!-- Page 298 --><a name="Page_298" - id="Page_298"></a> <b>Steppe</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 298 --><a id="Page_298"></a> <b>Steppe</b><br > <i>Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark</i></p> <p>German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and @@ -15731,13 +14839,13 @@ <p>Stilton <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Stirred curd cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Stirred curd cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed younger.</p> - <p><b>Stracchino</b><br /> + <p><b>Stracchino</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, @@ -15749,19 +14857,19 @@ <p>Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of this distinguished family.</p> - <p><b>Stravecchio</b><br /> + <p><b>Stravecchio</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.</p> <p><b>Stringer</b> <i>see</i> Spalen.</p> - <p><b>Styria</b><br /> + <p><b>Styria</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Whole milk. Cylindrical form.</p> - <p><b>Suffolk</b><br /> + <p><b>Suffolk</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet @@ -15772,7 +14880,7 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Hunger will break - through stone walls and anything</span><br /> + through stone walls and anything</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">except a Suffolk cheese."</span> </div> @@ -15780,27 +14888,26 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 299 --><a name="Page_299" - id="Page_299"></a> <span>"Those that made me were - uncivil<br /></span> <span>For they made me harder - than the devil.<br /></span> <span>Knives won't - cut me; fire won't sweat me;<br /></span> + <!-- Page 299 --><a id="Page_299"></a> <span>"Those that made me were + uncivil<br ></span> <span>For they made me harder + than the devil.<br ></span> <span>Knives won't + cut me; fire won't sweat me;<br ></span> <span>Dogs bark at me, but can't eat - me."<br /></span> + me."<br ></span> </div> </div> - <p><b>Surati, Panir</b><br /> + <p><b>Surati, Panir</b><br > <i>India</i></p> <p>Buffalo milk. Uncolored.</p> - <p><b>Suraz</b><br /> + <p><b>Suraz</b><br > <i>Serbia</i></p> <p>Semihard and semisoft.</p> - <p><b>Sveciaost</b><br /> + <p><b>Sveciaost</b><br > <i>Sweden</i></p> <p>A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to @@ -15810,7 +14917,7 @@ A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as most <i>osts</i> are.</p> - <p><b>Sweet-curd</b><br /> + <p><b>Sweet-curd</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and @@ -15818,7 +14925,7 @@ When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by the granular process.</p> - <p><b>Swiss</b><br /> + <p><b>Swiss</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New @@ -15830,8 +14937,7 @@ states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler.</p> - <p><!-- Page 300 --><a name="Page_300" - id="Page_300"></a> <b>Szekely</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 300 --><a id="Page_300"></a> <b>Szekely</b><br > <i>Transylvania, Hungary</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes @@ -15839,80 +14945,78 @@ style for American processed links, with wine flavors and everything.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_T" - id="AtoZ_T"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_T"></a><br > T</h3> - <p><b>Taffel, Table, Taffelost</b><br /> + <p><b>Taffel, Table, Taffelost</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.</p> - <p><b>Tafi</b><br /> + <p><b>Tafi</b><br > <i>Argentina</i></p> <p>Made in the rich province of Tucuman.</p> - <p><b>Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de</b><br /> + <p><b>Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de</b><br > <i>Périgord, France</i></p> <p>Very small and tasty goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Taleggio</b><br /> + <p><b>Taleggio</b><br > <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> <p>Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.</p> - <p><b>Tallance</b><br /> + <p><b>Tallance</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Goat.</p> - <p><b>Tamie</b><br /> + <p><b>Tamie</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced not far away.</p> - <p><b>Tanzenberger</b><br /> + <p><b>Tanzenberger</b><br > <i>Carinthia, Austria</i></p> <p>Limburger type.</p> - <p><b>Tao-foo or Tofu</b><br /> + <p><b>Tao-foo or Tofu</b><br > <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> <p>Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This - is then handled in the <!-- Page 301 --><a name="Page_301" - id="Page_301"></a>same way as animal milk in making ordinary + is then handled in the <!-- Page 301 --><a id="Page_301"></a>same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is.</p> - <p><b>Teleme</b><br /> + <p><b>Teleme</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days.</p> - <p><b>Terzolo</b><br /> + <p><b>Terzolo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter.</p> <p><b>Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, - Moor's Head</b><br /> + Moor's Head</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.</p> - <p><b>Tête de Moine, Monk's Head</b><br /> + <p><b>Tête de Moine, Monk's Head</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, @@ -15922,7 +15026,7 @@ <p><b>Tête de Mort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Gras for this death's head.</p> - <p><b>"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"</b><br /> + <p><b>"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"</b><br > <i>Scotland</i></p> <p>Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the @@ -15930,12 +15034,12 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>The first love token ye gae me<br /></span> - <span>Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.<br /></span> - <span>O wae be to the tempting cheese,<br /></span> - <span>The tempting cheese of Fyvie,<br /></span> - <span>Gat me forsake my ain gude man<br /></span> - <span>And follow a fottman laddie.<br /></span> + <span>The first love token ye gae me<br ></span> + <span>Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.<br ></span> + <span>O wae be to the tempting cheese,<br ></span> + <span>The tempting cheese of Fyvie,<br ></span> + <span>Gat me forsake my ain gude man<br ></span> + <span>And follow a fottman laddie.<br ></span> </div> </div> @@ -15944,36 +15048,35 @@ <p>Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.</p> - <p><!-- Page 302 --><a name="Page_302" - id="Page_302"></a> <b>Thenay</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 302 --><a id="Page_302"></a> <b>Thenay</b><br > <i>Vendôme, France</i></p> <p>Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.</p> - <p><b>Thion</b><br /> + <p><b>Thion</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>A fine Emmentaler.</p> - <p><b>Three Counties</b><br /> + <p><b>Three Counties</b><br > <i>Ireland</i></p> <p>An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most of the Irish cheese.</p> - <p><b>Thuringia Caraway</b><br /> + <p><b>Thuringia Caraway</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A hand cheese spiked with caraway.</p> - <p><b>Thyme</b><br /> + <p><b>Thyme</b><br > <i>Syria</i></p> <p>Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme—both French: Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.</p> - <p><b>Tibet</b><br /> + <p><b>Tibet</b><br > <i>Tibet</i></p> <p>The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country @@ -15983,13 +15086,13 @@ and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (<i>See under</i> Money.)</p> - <p><b>Tignard</b><br /> + <p><b>Tignard</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.</p> - <p><b>Tijuana</b><br /> + <p><b>Tijuana</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track @@ -15999,7 +15102,7 @@ 4</a>.</p> <p><b>Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called - Ragnit</b><br /> + Ragnit</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to @@ -16007,8 +15110,7 @@ give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.</p> - <p><!-- Page 303 --><a name="Page_303" - id="Page_303"></a>Old Tilsiter is something special in + <p><!-- Page 303 --><a id="Page_303"></a>Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and @@ -16018,60 +15120,59 @@ flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial dallying."</p> - <p><b>Tilziski</b><br /> + <p><b>Tilziski</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.</p> - <p><b>Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> + <p><b>Tome de Beaumont</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Whole cow's milk.</p> - <p><b>Tome, la</b><br /> + <p><b>Tome, la</b><br > <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> <p>Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, etc.</p> - <p><b>Tome de Chèvre</b><br /> + <p><b>Tome de Chèvre</b><br > <i>Savoy, France</i></p> <p>Soft goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Tome de Savoie</b><br /> + <p><b>Tome de Savoie</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.</p> - <p><b>Tomelitan Gruyère</b><br /> + <p><b>Tomelitan Gruyère</b><br > <i>Norway</i></p> <p>Imitation of French Gruyère in 2½ ounce packages.</p> - <p><b>Topf or Topfkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Topf or Topfkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it is flaky.</p> - <p><b>Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano</b><br /> + <p><b>Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano</b><br > <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> <p>Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a table cheese.</p> - <p><!-- Page 304 --><a name="Page_304" - id="Page_304"></a> <b>Toscanello</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 304 --><a id="Page_304"></a> <b>Toscanello</b><br > <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> <p>A smaller edition of Toscano.</p> - <p><b>Touareg</b><br /> + <p><b>Touareg</b><br > <i>Berber, Africa</i></p> <p>Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd @@ -16080,28 +15181,28 @@ turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.</p> - <p><b>Tour Eiffel</b><br /> + <p><b>Tour Eiffel</b><br > <i>Berry, France</i></p> <p>Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.</p> - <p><b>Touloumisio</b><br /> + <p><b>Touloumisio</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Similar to Feta.</p> - <p><b>Tournette</b><br /> + <p><b>Tournette</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Small goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Tourne de chèvre</b><br /> + <p><b>Tourne de chèvre</b><br > <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> <p>Goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Trappe, la, or Oka</b><br /> + <p><b>Trappe, la, or Oka</b><br > <i>Canada</i></p> <p>Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its @@ -16110,18 +15211,18 @@ <p><b>Trappist</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - <p><b>Trappist</b><br /> + <p><b>Trappist</b><br > <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Trappist Port-Salut imitation.</p> - <p><b>Trauben (Grape)</b><br /> + <p><b>Trauben (Grape)</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the grape.</p> - <p><b>Travnik, Travnicki</b><br /> + <p><b>Travnik, Travnicki</b><br > <i>Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia</i></p> <p>Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and @@ -16129,14 +15230,13 @@ Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.</p> - <p><!-- Page 305 --><a name="Page_305" - id="Page_305"></a>When fresh it is almost white and has a + <p><!-- Page 305 --><a id="Page_305"></a>When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is characteristically oily and sharp.</p> - <p><b>Traz os Montes</b><br /> + <p><b>Traz os Montes</b><br > <i>Portugal</i></p> <p>Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles @@ -16144,22 +15244,22 @@ oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all tallowy.</p> - <p><b>Trecce</b><br /> + <p><b>Trecce</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - <p><b>Triple Aurore</b><br /> + <p><b>Triple Aurore</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Normandy cheese in season all the year around.</p> - <p><b>Troo</b><br /> + <p><b>Troo</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.</p> - <p><b>Trouville</b><br /> + <p><b>Trouville</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of @@ -16167,7 +15267,7 @@ <p><b>Troyes, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Barberey and Ervy.</p> - <p><b>Truckles</b><br /> + <p><b>Truckles</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety @@ -16177,35 +15277,34 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> - <span>Pray, dame, something,<br /></span> <span>An - apple or a dumpling,<br /></span> <span>Or a piece of - Truckle cheese<br /></span> <span>Of your own - making.<br /></span> + <span>Pray, dame, something,<br ></span> <span>An + apple or a dumpling,<br ></span> <span>Or a piece of + Truckle cheese<br ></span> <span>Of your own + making.<br ></span> </div> </div> - <p><!-- Page 306 --><a name="Page_306" - id="Page_306"></a>No. II: Local name in the West of England + <p><!-- Page 306 --><a id="Page_306"></a>No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.</p> - <p><b>Tschil</b><br /> + <p><b>Tschil</b><br > <i>Armenia</i></p> <p>Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.</p> - <p><b>Tuile de Flandre</b><br /> + <p><b>Tuile de Flandre</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>A type of Marolles.</p> - <p><b>Tullum Penney</b><br /> + <p><b>Tullum Penney</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Salty from being soaked in brine.</p> - <p><b>Tuna, Prickly Pear</b><br /> + <p><b>Tuna, Prickly Pear</b><br > <i>Mexico</i></p> <p>Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by @@ -16216,69 +15315,67 @@ very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico for centuries.</p> - <p><b>Tuscano</b><br /> + <p><b>Tuscano</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.</p> - <p><b>Twdr Sir</b><br /> + <p><b>Twdr Sir</b><br > <i>Serbia</i></p> <p>Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.</p> - <p><b>Twin Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Twin Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, Wisconsin.</p> - <p><b>Tworog</b><br /> + <p><b>Tworog</b><br > <i>Russia</i></p> <p>Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese bread called Notruschki.</p> - <p><!-- Page 307 --><a name="Page_307" - id="Page_307"></a> <b>Tybo</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 307 --><a id="Page_307"></a> <b>Tybo</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.</p> - <p><b>Tyrol Sour</b><br /> + <p><b>Tyrol Sour</b><br > <i>German</i></p> <p>A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.</p> - <p><b>Tzgone</b><br /> + <p><b>Tzgone</b><br > <i>Dalmatia</i></p> <p>The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.</p> - <p><b>Tzigenkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Tzigenkäse</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; originated in Dalmatia.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_U" - id="AtoZ_U"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_U"></a><br > U</h3> - <p><b>Urda</b><br /> + <p><b>Urda</b><br > <i>Rumania</i></p> <p>Creamy; sweet; mild.</p> - <p><b>Uri</b><br /> + <p><b>Uri</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds.</p> - <p><b>Urseren</b><br /> + <p><b>Urseren</b><br > <i>Switzerland</i></p> <p>Mild flavored. Cooked curd.</p> @@ -16287,11 +15384,10 @@ <p>Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_V" - id="AtoZ_V"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_V"></a><br > V</h3> - <p><b>Vacherin</b><br /> + <p><b>Vacherin</b><br > <i>France and Switzerland</i></p> <p>I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery @@ -16303,8 +15399,7 @@ with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is Tome de Montague.</p> - <p><!-- Page 308 --><a name="Page_308" - id="Page_308"></a>II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. + <p><!-- Page 308 --><a id="Page_308"></a>II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."</p> @@ -16314,23 +15409,23 @@ the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin.</p> - <p><b>Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du</b><br /> + <p><b>Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du</b><br > <i>Andorra, France</i></p> <p>Sheep milk.</p> - <p><b>Valdeblore, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Valdeblore, le</b><br > <i>Nice, France</i></p> <p>Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.</p> - <p><b>Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay</b><br /> + <p><b>Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay</b><br > <i>Touraine, France</i></p> <p>Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.</p> - <p><b>Valio</b><br /> + <p><b>Valio</b><br > <i>Finland</i></p> <p>One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process @@ -16338,144 +15433,141 @@ Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real cheese is.</p> - <p><b>Valsic</b><br /> + <p><b>Valsic</b><br > <i>Albania</i></p> <p>Crumbly and sharp.</p> - <p><b>Varalpenland</b><br /> + <p><b>Varalpenland</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.</p> - <p><b>Varennes, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Varennes, Fromage de</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - <p><!-- Page 309 --><a name="Page_309" - id="Page_309"></a> <b>Västerbottenost</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 309 --><a id="Page_309"></a> <b>Västerbottenost</b><br > <i>West Bothnia</i></p> <p>Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, almost bitter taste.</p> - <p><b>Västgötaost</b><br /> + <p><b>Västgötaost</b><br > <i>West Gothland, Sweden</i></p> <p>Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty to thirty pounds.</p> - <p><b>Vendôme, Fromage de</b><br /> + <p><b>Vendôme, Fromage de</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris.</p> - <p><b>Veneto, Venezza</b><br /> + <p><b>Veneto, Venezza</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.</p> - <p><b>Vic-en-Bigorre</b><br /> + <p><b>Vic-en-Bigorre</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.</p> - <p><b>Victoria</b><br /> + <p><b>Victoria</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.</p> - <p><b>Ville Saint-Jacques</b><br /> + <p><b>Ville Saint-Jacques</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May.</p> - <p><b>Villiers</b><br /> + <p><b>Villiers</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.</p> - <p><b>Viry-vory, or Vary</b><br /> + <p><b>Viry-vory, or Vary</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - <p><b>Viterbo</b><br /> + <p><b>Viterbo</b><br > <i>Italy</i></p> <p>Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, <i>Cynara Scolymus</i>. Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.</p> - <p><b>Vize</b><br /> + <p><b>Vize</b><br > <i>Greece</i></p> <p>Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.</p> - <p><b>Void</b><br /> + <p><b>Void</b><br > <i>Meuse, France</i></p> <p>Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.</p> - <p><!-- Page 310 --><a name="Page_310" - id="Page_310"></a> <b>Volvet Kaas</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 310 --><a id="Page_310"></a> <b>Volvet Kaas</b><br > <i>Holland</i></p> <p>The name means "full cream" cheese and that—according to law—has 45% fat in the dry product (<i>See</i> Gras.)</p> - <p><b>Vorarlberg Sour-milk</b><br /> + <p><b>Vorarlberg Sour-milk</b><br > <i>Greasy</i></p> <p>Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk.</p> - <p><b>Vory, le</b><br /> + <p><b>Vory, le</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_W" - id="AtoZ_W"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_W"></a><br > W</h3> - <p><b>Warshawski Syr</b><br /> + <p><b>Warshawski Syr</b><br > <i>Poland</i></p> <p>Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland.</p> - <p><b>Warwickshire</b><br /> + <p><b>Warwickshire</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>Derbyshire type.</p> - <p><b>Washed-curd cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Washed-curd cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any abnormal flavors.</p> - <p><b>Wedesslborg</b><br /> + <p><b>Wedesslborg</b><br > <i>Denmark</i></p> <p>A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully ripened.</p> - <p><b>Weisschmiere</b><br /> + <p><b>Weisschmiere</b><br > <i>Bavaria, Germany</i></p> <p>Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four months.</p> - <p><b>Weisslacker, White Lacquer</b><br /> + <p><b>Weisslacker, White Lacquer</b><br > <i>Bavaria</i></p> <p>Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in @@ -16489,8 +15581,7 @@ Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting - sensuousness <!-- Page 311 --><a name="Page_311" - id="Page_311"></a>that is found in the poems of John + sensuousness <!-- Page 311 --><a id="Page_311"></a>that is found in the poems of John Keats.</p> <p>"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no @@ -16500,11 +15591,11 @@ would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From <i>My Wales</i> by Rhys Davies.)</p> - <p><b>Wensleydale</b><br /> + <p><b>Wensleydale</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. England, Yorkshire. - Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to</span><br /> + Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to</span><br > Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June to September. It is put up in the same @@ -16516,12 +15607,12 @@ greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and winter.</p> - <p><b>Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse</b><br > <i>West Prussia</i></p> <p>Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.</p> - <p><b>West Friesian</b><br /> + <p><b>West Friesian</b><br > <i>Netherlands</i></p> <p>Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored @@ -16531,14 +15622,13 @@ <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <span>Good bread, good butter and good - cheese<br /></span> <span>Is good English and good - Friese.<br /></span> + cheese<br ></span> <span>Is good English and good + Friese.<br ></span> </div> </div> - <p><!-- Page 312 --><a name="Page_312" - id="Page_312"></a> <b>Westphalia Sour Milk, or - Brioler</b><br /> + <p><!-- Page 312 --><a id="Page_312"></a> <b>Westphalia Sour Milk, or + Brioler</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg @@ -16559,7 +15649,7 @@ <p>The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.</p> - <p><b>Whale Cheese</b><br /> + <p><b>Whale Cheese</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>In <i>The Cheddar Box,</i> Dean Collins tells of an ancient @@ -16569,51 +15659,50 @@ cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the whales.</p> - <p><b>White, Fromage Blanc</b><br /> + <p><b>White, Fromage Blanc</b><br > <i>France</i></p> <p>Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten fresh, with or without salt.</p> - <p><b>White Cheddar</b><br /> + <p><b>White Cheddar</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.</p> - <p><!-- Page 313 --><a name="Page_313" - id="Page_313"></a> <b>White Gorgonzola</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 313 --><a id="Page_313"></a> <b>White Gorgonzola</b></p> <p>This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (<i>See</i> Gorgonzola.)</p> - <p><b>White Stilton</b><br /> + <p><b>White Stilton</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag.</p> - <p><b>Whitethorn</b><br /> + <p><b>Whitethorn</b><br > <i>Ireland</i></p> <p>Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except that it is colored.</p> - <p><b>Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch</b><br /> + <p><b>Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch</b><br > <i>Schleswig-Holstein, Germany</i></p> <p>Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at Itzehoe.</p> - <p><b>Wiltshire or Wilts</b><br /> + <p><b>Wiltshire or Wilts</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (<i>See</i> North Wilts.)</p> - <p><b>Wisconsin Factory Cheeses</b><br /> + <p><b>Wisconsin Factory Cheeses</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating @@ -16625,7 +15714,7 @@ <p>Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss.</p> - <p><b>Withania</b><br /> + <p><b>Withania</b><br > <i>India</i></p> <p>Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of @@ -16633,19 +15722,17 @@ berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.</p> - <h3><!-- Page 314 --><a name="Page_314" - id="Page_314"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Y" - id="AtoZ_Y"></a><br /> + <h3><!-- Page 314 --><a id="Page_314"></a> <a id="AtoZ_Y"></a><br > Y</h3> - <p><b>Yoghurt, or Yogurt</b><br /> + <p><b>Yoghurt, or Yogurt</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Made with <i>Bacillus bulgaricus</i>, that develops the acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel.</p> - <p><b>York, York Curd and Cambridge York</b><br /> + <p><b>York, York Curd and Cambridge York</b><br > <i>England</i></p> <p>A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which @@ -16653,7 +15740,7 @@ is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.</p> - <p><b>Yorkshire-Stilton</b><br /> + <p><b>Yorkshire-Stilton</b><br > <i>Cotherstone, England</i></p> <p>This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age @@ -16661,45 +15748,43 @@ general favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung.</p> - <p><b>York State</b><br /> + <p><b>York State</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars.</p> - <p><b>Young America</b><br /> + <p><b>Young America</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.</p> - <p><b>Yo-yo</b><br /> + <p><b>Yo-yo</b><br > <i>U.S.A.</i></p> <p>Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.</p> - <h3><a name="AtoZ_Z" - id="AtoZ_Z"></a><br /> + <h3><a id="AtoZ_Z"></a><br > Z</h3> - <p><b>Ziegel</b><br /> + <p><b>Ziegel</b><br > <i>Austria</i></p> <p>Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months.</p> - <p><b>Ziegenkäse</b><br /> + <p><b>Ziegenkäse</b><br > <i>Germany</i></p> <p>A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.</p> - <p><!-- Page 315 --><a name="Page_315" - id="Page_315"></a> <b>Ziger</b></p> + <p><!-- Page 315 --><a id="Page_315"></a> <b>Ziger</b></p> <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. This whey product is - not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food</span><br /> + not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food</span><br > made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. @@ -16711,7 +15796,7 @@ <p><b>Zips</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - <p><b>Zomma</b><br /> + <p><b>Zomma</b><br > <i>Turkey</i></p> <p>Similar to Caciocavallo.</p> @@ -16719,537 +15804,525 @@ <p><b>Zwirn</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > - <p><!-- Page 316 --><a name="Page_316" - id="Page_316"></a> </p> + <p><!-- Page 316 --><a id="Page_316"></a> </p> <p> </p> <div> - <img src="images/316.gif" - width="500" - height="237" - alt="Illustration" /> + <img src="images/316.gif" alt="Illustration" style="width: 500px; height: 237px"> </div> <h2>Index of Recipes</h2> <!-- NOTE: Page Numbers in this document are numbered higher by 5 than the numbers in the printed book, due to the title and table of contents pages. --> - <p>American Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Angelic Camembert, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Apple and Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> + <p>American Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br > + Angelic Camembert, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br > + Apple and Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br > Apple Pie à la Cheese, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie Adorned, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br > + Apple Pie Adorned, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br > + Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br > Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - au Gratin<br /> + <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br > + au Gratin<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggs, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Blintzes, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - Brie or Camembert Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - <br /> - Camembert, Angelic, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br > + <br > + Blintzes, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br > + Brie or Camembert Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br > + <br > + Camembert, Angelic, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br > Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, - <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> - Cheddar Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Cheese and Nut Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Cheese and Pea Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Cheese Cake, Pineapple, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Cheese Charlotte, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Cheese Custard, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Pie, Open-faced, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Sauce, Plain, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Cheese Waffles, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Chicken Cheese Soup, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - Cottage Cheese Pancakes, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Christmas Cake Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Cold Dunking, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Custard, Cheese, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Dauphiny Ravioli, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Diablotins, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Dumpling, Napkin, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Dunking, Cold, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - <br /> - Eggs au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 317 --><a name="Page_317" - id="Page_317"></a> Flan au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Fondue<br /> + <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br > + Cheddar Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br > + Cheese and Nut Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br > + Cheese and Pea Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br > + Cheese Cake, Pineapple, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br > + Cheese Charlotte, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br > + Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br > + Cheese Custard, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br > + Cheese Pie, Open-faced, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br > + Cheese Sauce, Plain, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br > + Cheese Waffles, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br > + Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + Chicken Cheese Soup, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br > + Cottage Cheese Pancakes, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br > + Christmas Cake Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br > + Cold Dunking, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br > + Custard, Cheese, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br > + <br > + Dauphiny Ravioli, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br > + Diablotins, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br > + Dumpling, Napkin, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br > + Dunking, Cold, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br > + <br > + Eggs au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br > + <br > + <!-- Page 317 --><a id="Page_317"></a> Flan au Fromage, + <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br > + Fondue<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à l'Italienne, - <a href="#Page_89">84</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_89">84</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American, - <a href="#Page_90">85</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_90">85</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baked Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brick, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - Quickie, <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> + Quickie, <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar Dunk Bowl, - <a href="#Page_98">93</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_98">93</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, and Corn, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Rice, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chives, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Comtois, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel Style, - <a href="#Page_87">82</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_87">82</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">100% American, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rice, and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sapsago Swiss, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato - Baked,<a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> + Baked,<a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vacherin-Fribourg, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - Fritters, Italian, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Fritto Misto, Italian, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - <br /> - Garlic on Cheese, <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - <br /> + <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br > + Fritters, Italian, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br > + Fritto Misto, Italian, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + <br > + Garlic on Cheese, <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br > + Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br > + Green Cheese Salad Julienne, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br > + <br > Italian Asparagus and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Italian Fritters, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Italian Fritto Misto, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Italian-Swiss Scallopini, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Little Hats, Cappelletti, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Meal-in-One Omelet, A, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Miniature Pizzas, <a href="#Page_112">107</a><br /> - <br /> - Napkin Dumpling, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Omelet<br /> + <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br > + Italian Fritters, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br > + Italian Fritto Misto, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + Italian-Swiss Scallopini, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br > + <br > + Little Hats, Cappelletti, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br > + <br > + Meal-in-One Omelet, A, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br > + Miniature Pizzas, <a href="#Page_112">107</a><br > + <br > + Napkin Dumpling, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br > + Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br > + <br > + Omelet<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meal-in-One, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Cheese Sauce, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> - Onion Soup, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Onion Soup au Gratin, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Open-faced Cheese Pie, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Parmesan Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br > + Onion Soup, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br > + Onion Soup au Gratin, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br > + Open-faced Cheese Pie, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br > + <br > + Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br > + Parmesan Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br > + Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br > Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, - <a href="#Page_139">134</a><br /> - Pineapple Cheese Cake, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Piroghs, Polish, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Pizza, <a href="#Page_111">106</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_139">134</a><br > + Pineapple Cheese Cake, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br > + Piroghs, Polish, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + Pizza, <a href="#Page_111">106</a><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dough, - <a href="#Page_111">106</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_111">106</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miniature, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Paste, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - Polish Piroghs, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Potatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Puffs<br /> + <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br > + Polish Piroghs, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + Potatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br > + Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br > + Puffs<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Breakfast, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, New England, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish Fondue, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fried, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">New England Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Rabbit<br /> + <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br > + <br > + Rabbit<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">After-Dinner, - <a href="#Page_60">55</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_60">55</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American Succotash, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Woodchuck, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anchovy, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asparagus, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic</span><br /> + <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br > + <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic</span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 1 (with beer), - <a href="#Page_54">49</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_54">49</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 2 (with milk), - <a href="#Page_55">50</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_55">50</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blushing Bunny, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <!-- Page 318 --><a name="Page_318" - id="Page_318"></a> + <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br > + <!-- Page 318 --><a id="Page_318"></a> <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Border-hopping Bunny, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bouquet of the Sea," - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buttermilk, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celery and Onion, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipped Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby Tomato, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Curry, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Devil's Own, The, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Maginn's, - <a href="#Page_59">54</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_59">54</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dried Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dutch, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Easy English, - <a href="#Page_83">78</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_83">78</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggnog, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fish, Fresh or Dried, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fluffy, Eggy, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frijole, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gherkin, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ginger Ale, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck II, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Sardine, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato and Onion, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gruyère, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kansas Jack, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Llanover's Toasted, - <a href="#Page_57">52</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_57">52</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Latin-American Corn, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mexican Chilaly, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Original Recipe, Ye, - <a href="#Page_62">57</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_62">57</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oven, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oyster, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pink Poodle, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pumpernickel, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reducing, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roe, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Running, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Plain, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savory Eggy Dry, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scotch Woodcock, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked fish, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">South African Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Sherry, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stieff Recipe, The, - <a href="#Page_56">51</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_56">51</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato and Onion, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Crumby, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Soup, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, South American, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yale College, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yorkshire, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> - Ramekins<br /> + <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br > + Ramekins<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à la Parisienne, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Casserole, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese I, - <a href="#Page_106">101</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_106">101</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese II, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese III, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese IV, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frying Pan, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Morézien, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puff Paste, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss-Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - Ravioli, Dauphiny, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Roquefort, Champagned, <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br > + Ravioli, Dauphiny, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br > + Roquefort, Champagned, <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br > Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> + <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br > Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 319 --><a name="Page_319" - id="Page_319"></a> Salad<br /> + <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br > + <br > + <!-- Page 319 --><a id="Page_319"></a> Salad<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Cheese, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apple and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brie, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camembert, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Nut, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Pea, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gorgonzola and Banana, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Green Cheese Salad Julienne, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rosie's Swiss Breakfast - Cheese, <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> + Cheese, <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One Mold, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - Sandwiches<br /> + <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br > + Sandwiches<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alpine Club, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boston Beany, Open-face, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheeseburgers, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deviled Rye, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">French-fried Swiss, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">He-man, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">International, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jurassiennes, or Croûtes - Comtoises, <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> + Comtoises, <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kümmelkäse, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limburger Onion, or Catsup, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meringue, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel and Honey, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oskar's Ham-Cam, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pickled Camembert, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queijo da Serra, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort Nut, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tangy, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unusual—of Flowers, Hay and Clover, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vegetarian, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Witch's, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Xochomilco, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yolk Picnic, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - Sauce<br /> + <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br > + Sauce<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mornay, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parsleyed Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - Sauce Mornay, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - Schnitzelbank Pot, <a href="#Page_42">37</a><br /> - Soufflé<br /> + <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br > + Sauce Mornay, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br > + Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br > + Schnitzelbank Pot, <a href="#Page_42">37</a><br > + Soufflé<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Corn, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese Fritter, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Mushroom, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Potato, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Spinach, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spinach-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - Soup<br /> + <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br > + Soup<br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chicken Cheese, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, au Gratin, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> + <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br > <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Supa Shetgia, - <a href="#Page_138">133</a></span><br /> - Spanish Flan—Quesillo, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Straws, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Stuffed Celery, <a href="#Page_137">132</a><br /> - Supa Shetgia, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Swiss Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - Three-in-One Mold, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Tomato Omelet, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Tomatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - Vatroushki, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - <br /> + <a href="#Page_138">133</a></span><br > + Spanish Flan—Quesillo, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br > + Straws, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br > + Stuffed Celery, <a href="#Page_137">132</a><br > + Supa Shetgia, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br > + Swiss Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br > + <br > + Three-in-One Mold, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br > + Tomato Omelet, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br > + Tomatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br > + <br > + Vatroushki, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br > + <br > Waffles, Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a></p> <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> + <hr style="width: 65%;" > <p> </p> - <h2><a name="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR" - id="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR"></a> - <!-- Page 320 --><a name="Page_320" - id="Page_320"></a> <img src="images/320.gif" - width="125" - height="100" - alt="Illustration: house" /> ABOUT THE AUTHOR</h2> - <hr style="width: 75%;" /> + <h2><a id="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR"></a> + <!-- Page 320 --><a id="Page_320"></a> <img src="images/320.gif" alt="Illustration: house" style="width: 125px; height: 100px"> ABOUT THE AUTHOR</h2> + <hr style="width: 75%;" > <p>Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, @@ -17282,8 +16355,7 @@ <p>In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent in collecting books and bibelots throughout - <!-- Page 321 --><a name="Page_321" - id="Page_321"></a> the Orient, he settled down in Paris with + <!-- Page 321 --><a id="Page_321"></a> the Orient, he settled down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his <i>Words</i> and Harry Crosby printed <i>1450-1950</i> at @@ -17310,14 +16382,13 @@ <p> </p> <div class="blockquot"> - <p><!-- Page 322 --><a name="Page_322" - id="Page_322"></a> [Compiler's Notes: Moved page on + <p><!-- Page 322 --><a id="Page_322"></a> [Compiler's Notes: Moved page on author's other books from page 1 of project to follow - the title page.<br /> + the title page.<br > Removed publisher's copyright information from page - 3.<br /> + 3.<br > Removed references to Introduction, as it was omitted from - the book project.<br /> + the book project.<br > Added A to Z links to the Appendix in the Table of Contents]</p> </div> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt index 6312041..b5dba15 100644 --- a/LICENSE.txt +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements, metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. @@ -7,5 +7,5 @@ the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize -this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +this book outside of the United States should confirm copyright status under the laws that apply to them. @@ -1,2 +1,2 @@ Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for -eBook #14293 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14293) +book #14293 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14293) diff --git a/old/14293-8.txt b/old/14293-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 5de4446..0000000 --- a/old/14293-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,14321 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Complete Book of Cheese, by Robert Carlton Brown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -BOB BROWN - - -The Complete Book -of Cheese - - -_Illustrations by_ Eric Blegvad - -[Illustration] - -_Gramercy Publishing Company - -New York_ -1955 - - -_Author of_ - -THE WINE COOK BOOK - -AMERICA COOKS - -10,000 SNACKS - -SALADS AND HERBS - -THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK - -SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES - -THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK - -LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK! - -THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK - -THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ - -MOST FOR YOUR MONEY - -OUTDOOR COOKING - -FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK - -THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK - -_Co-author of Food and Drink Books by_ The Browns - -LET THERE BE BEER! - -HOMEMADE HILARITY - - - - -[Illustration: TO] - -TO - -PHIL - -ALPERT - -_Turophile Extraordinary_ - - - - -[Illustration: Contents] - -1 I Remember Cheese - -2 The Big Cheese - -3 Foreign Greats - -4 Native Americans - -5 Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - -6 The Fondue - -7 Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - -8 Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes and Cheese Cake - -9 Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - -10 Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - -11 "Fit for Drink" - -12 Lazy Lou - - -APPENDIX--The A-B-Z of Cheese - -INDEX OF RECIPES - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter One_ - -I Remember Cheese - - -Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the -cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the -millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with a -hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of judging a -crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness for centuries. -The abracadabra is comparable to that of the wine-taster or -tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear of music-masters and, -merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down to an air pocket left by a -gas bubble just how mature the interior is. - -The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and I, too, -that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread handy and made my -way from one fine cheese to another, trying out generous plugs from -the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at -Antietam. - -I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I -stocked up on good Schweizerkäse and better Gruyère. For lunch I had -cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound -Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little café, -absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal quantities. I learned that a -prize cheese must be chock-full of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes -produced during fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar -glass. The cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its -flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement each other -as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There are, I learned, -"blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the million-eyed ones are better. - -But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for cheese -memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over the cheeses of -all nations, first importing them, then imitating them, from Swiss -Engadine to what we call Genuine Sprinz. We've naturalized -Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns and baptized our own Saaland -Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty popular Italian types we duplicate -more than half, some fairly well, others badly. - -We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the -Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield -County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy Neufchâtel, New York Coon, -Vermont Sage, the delicious Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and -dozens of others, not all quite so original. - -And, true to the American way, we've organized cheese-eating. There's -an annual cheese week, and a cheese month (October). We even boast a -mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month Club. We haven't yet reached the point -of sophistication, however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets -regularly. To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred -basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded. - -This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I -have during the past year or two been sharpening my cheese perception -with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run -into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like -Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is one of -the greatest--and least competitively crowded--of sports. I hope this -book may lead others to give it a try. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Two_ - -The Big Cheese - - -One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed in at four -tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years ago. Another -monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in the New York State -Fair at Syracuse in 1937. - -Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way from New -Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of 1924. But, -compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a Baby Gouda. As a -matter of fact, neither England nor any of her great dairying colonies -have gone in for mammoth jobs, except Canada, with that four-tonner -shown at Toronto. - -We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can find out -all about them in _Cheddar Gorge,_ edited by Sir John Squire. The -first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the -year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its -heft almost tied the 147-pound Green County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss -presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation -of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 -percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under 150, His Royal -Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed high hat and all, was a -hundred-weight heavier, and thus almost dwarfed it. - -It was almost a century later that the second record-breaking Chester -weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it won a Gold Medal and a -Challenge Cup and was presented to the King, who graciously accepted -it. This was more than Queen Victoria had done with a bridal gift -cheese that tipped the scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's -yield from 780 contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, -measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The assembled -donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they asked royal -permission to exhibit it on a round of country fairs. The Queen -assented to this ambitious request, perhaps prompted by the -exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking cheesemongers assured -Her Majesty that the gift would be returned to her just as soon as it -had been exhibited. But the Queen didn't want it back after it was -show-worn. The donors began to quarrel among themselves about what to -do with the remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many -lost causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again. - -While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the better, -(much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is better than a pint), -there is a limit to the obesity of a block, ball or brick of almost -any kinds of cheese. When they pass a certain limit, they lack -homogeneity and are not nearly so good as the smaller ones. Today a -good magnum size for an exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize -Provolone, 280 pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw -crowds to any food-shop window. - -Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese Hall of -Fame and come down to us in song and story. For example, that four-ton -Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, James McIntyre, who doubled as -the local undertaker. - - We have thee, mammoth cheese, - Lying quietly at your ease; - Gently fanned by evening breeze, - Thy fair form no flies dare seize. - - All gaily dressed soon you'll go - To the greatest provincial show, - To be admired by many a beau - In the city of Toronto. - - May you not receive a scar as - We have heard that Mr. Harris - Intends to send you off as far as - The great world's show at Paris. - - Of the youth beware of these, - For some of them might rudely squeeze - And bite your cheek; then song or glees - We could not sing, oh, Queen of Cheese. - -An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was inspired by "The -Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of Cheshire." This was in the -summer of 1801 when the patriotic people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, -turned out en masse to concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green -for presentation to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique -demonstration occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the -greatest political triumph of a new country in a new century--the -victory of the Democrats over the Federalists. Its collective making -was heralded in Boston's _Mercury and New England Palladium_, -September 8, 1801: - - _The Mammoth Cheese_ - - AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD - - From meadows rich, with clover red, - A thousand heifers come; - The tinkling bells the tidings spread, - The milkmaid muffles up her head, - And wakes the village hum. - - In shining pans the snowy flood - Through whitened canvas pours; - The dyeing pots of otter good - And rennet tinged with madder blood - Are sought among their stores. - - The quivering curd, in panniers stowed, - Is loaded on the jade, - The stumbling beast supports the load, - While trickling whey bedews the road - Along the dusty glade. - - As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred, - The arid deserts roam, - Through trackless sands undaunted tread, - With skins of water on their head - To cheer their masters home, - - So here full many a sturdy swain - His precious baggage bore; - Old misers e'en forgot their gain, - And bed-rid cripples, free from pain, - Now took the road before. - - The widow, with her dripping mite - Upon her saddle horn, - Rode up in haste to see the sight - And aid a charity so right, - A pauper so forlorn. - - The circling throng an opening drew - Upon the verdant-grass - To let the vast procession through - To spread their rich repast in view, - And Elder J. L. pass. - - Then Elder J. with lifted eyes - In musing posture stood, - Invoked a blessing from the skies - To save from vermin, mites and flies, - And keep the bounty good. - - Now mellow strokes the yielding pile - From polished steel receives, - And shining nymphs stand still a while, - Or mix the mass with salt and oil, - With sage and savory leaves. - - Then sextonlike, the patriot troop, - With naked arms and crown, - Embraced, with hardy hands, the scoop, - And filled the vast expanded hoop, - While beetles smacked it down. - - Next girding screws the ponderous beam, - With heft immense, drew down; - The gushing whey from every seam - Flowed through the streets a rapid stream, - And shad came up to town. - -This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated today by -a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of Cheshire, located -between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route 8. - -Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of Cheshire -rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a token of fidelity -from the very heart of the people of this land to the great cause of -equal rights to all men." - -This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren -succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar mammoth cheese in -token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger -than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their -loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the -hall of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the -fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had eaten their -fill. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Three_ - -Foreign Greats - - _Ode to Cheese_ - - - God of the country, bless today Thy cheese, - For which we give Thee thanks on bended knees. - Let them be fat or light, with onions blent, - Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether scent - Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard - Let them, good Lord, at dawn be beaten hard. - And let their edges take on silvery shades - Under the moist red hands of dairymaids; - And, round and greenish, let them go to town - Weighing the shepherd's folding mantle down; - Whether from Parma or from Jura heights, - Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites, - Stamped with the mitre of a proud abbess. - Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of Bresse, - From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, - From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy! - Bless them, good Lord! Bless Stilton's royal fare, - Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyère. - - FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S TRANSLATION - OF A POEM BY M. Thomas Braun - - _Symphonie des Fromages_ - - A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with an ax, - stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss Gruyère - resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot There were Dutch Edams, - round and blood-red, and Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on - parade. Three Bries, side by side, suggested phases of the moon; - two of them, very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the - third, in its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And all the - while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely contempt upon - the other, through the glass of their crystal covers. - - Emile Zola - -In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture published Handbook -No. 54, entitled _Cheese Varieties and Descriptions,_ with this -comment: "There probably are only about eighteen distinct types or -kinds of natural cheese." All the rest (more than 400 names) are of -local origin, usually named after towns or communities. A list of the -best-known names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups -is given: - - Brick Gouda Romano - Camembert Hand Roquefort - Cheddar Limburger Sapsago - Cottage Neufchâtel Swiss - Cream Parmesan Trappist - Edam Provolone Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta) - - -May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We -begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and -end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that -includes Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred. - - -The Blues that Are Green - -Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that rules a -world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as green as the -mythical cheese the moon is made of. - -In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a handful of -lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three and try to -classify them, until you're blue in the face. The best we can do in -this slight summary is to mention a few of the most notable, aside -from our own Blues of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and other states -that major in cheese. - -Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as "Flower of -Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass Blue all its own. -But France and England are the leaders in this line, France first with -a sort of triple triumvirate within a triumvirate--Septmoncel, Gex, -and Sassenage, all three made with three milks mixed together: cow, -goat and sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura -mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank -Roquefort. - -This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage persillé, as -well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. Similar mountain cheeses are made -in Auvergne and Aubrac and have distinct qualities that have brought -them fame, such as Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de -Salers, and St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color -scheme, and sundry others such as Champoléon, Journiac, Queyras and -Sarraz. - -Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and -Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early days, and still -is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and -esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the -favorite of Thomas Hardy. - - -Brie - -Sheila Hibben once wrote in _The New Yorker:_ - -I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen -of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly -ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly -fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you -down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or -at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come -on the tenth Brie, _coulant_ to just the right, delicate creaminess, -and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with -it. - -The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only -months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar -none. - - -Caciocavallo - -From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo -translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the -Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations -are made and named after it, as follows: - - BULGARIA: Kascaval - - GREECE: Kashcavallo and Caskcaval - - HUNGARY: Parenica - - RUMANIA: Pentele and Kascaval - - SERBIA: Katschkawalj - - SYRIA: Cashkavallo - - TRANSYLVANIA: Kascaval (as in Rumania) - - TURKEY: Cascaval Penir - - YUGOSLAVIA: Kackavalj - -A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its popular name and -to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It is, however, curded -from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, and sometimes from water -buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery that the best of it, which comes -from Sorrento, is called _Cacio burro,_ butter cheese. Slightly salty, -with a spicy tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for -grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian pastes -but on sweets. - -Different from the many grating cheeses made from little balls of curd -called _grana_, Caciocavallo is a _pasta fileta_, or drawn-curd -product. Because of this it is sometimes drawn out in long thick -threads and braided. It is a cheese for skilled artists to make -sculptures with, sometimes horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and -other fruits, even as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and -often worked into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the -horse's head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob -on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a time, on -opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly golden and -rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the more buttery. - -In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the best comes -from Sorrento, there is keen competition from Abruzzi, Apulian -Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't spoil when shipped -overseas. - -In his _Little Book of Cheese_ Osbert Burdett recommends the high, -horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over tobacco smoke after dinner: - - Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me that - Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, some pungency - is necessary, and confidence suggests rather Cacio which would - survive anything, the monster said. - -Camembert - -Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine is labeled -_Syndicat du Vrai Camembert_. The name in full is _Syndicat des -Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de Normandie_ and we agree that this -is "a most useful association for the defense of one of the best -cheeses of France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, -except perhaps by Brie. - -Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the waitress who -first served it to him in the tiny town of Camembert. And there a -statue stands today in the market place to honor Marie Harel who made -the first Camembert. - -Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, pineapple, pear, -French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie and with oysters, -Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" months, and of these -September is the best. - -Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the _véritable_ -don't fall for a domestic imitation or any West German abomination -such as one dressed like a valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled -"Camembert--Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, chalky with -youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and decrepit. - -Cheddar - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ says: - - Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale coloured, - mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a hazelnut in flavour. - The Cheddar principle pervades the whole cheesemaking districts - of America, Canada and New Zealand, but no cheese imported into - England can equal the Cheddars of Somerset and the West of - Scotland. - -Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first -manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse Cheddar, but in -America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be -ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our -American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote -that it "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, -according to magnitude) with any cheese in England." - -Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second after -Stilton, of course. - -In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of family -feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can be kept for -two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool room and turned -over every other day." - -But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... I asked -one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her eyes twinkled: -'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'" - -Cheshire - -A Cheshireman sailed into Spain -To trade for merchandise; -When he arrived from the main -A Spaniard him espies. -Who said, "You English rogue, look here! -What fruits and spices fine -Our land produces twice a year. -Thou has not such in thine." - -The Cheshireman ran to his hold -And fetched a Cheshire cheese, -And said, "Look here, you dog, behold! -We have such fruits as these. -Your fruits are ripe but twice a year, -As you yourself do say, -But such as I present you here -Our land brings twice a day." - -Anonymous - - Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far - too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the inn, of the - chophouse, of the average English home, is a libel on a thing - which, when authentic, is worthy of great honor. Cheshire, - divinely commanded into existence as to three parts to precede - and as to one part to accompany certain Tawny Ports and some - Late-Bottled Ports, can be a thing for which the British Navy - ought to fire a salute on the principle on which Colonel Brisson - made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian - vineyard. - - T. Earle Welby, - - IN "THE DINNER KNELL" - -Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, but the -oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar conquered Britain, and -tradition is that the Romans built the walled city of Chester to -control the district where the precious cheese was made. Chester on -the River Dee was a stronghold against the Roman invasion. - -It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan times and -waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the Fleet Street Inn -where White Cheshire was served "with radishes or watercress or celery -when in season," and Red Cheshire was served toasted or stewed in a -sort of Welsh Rabbit. (_See_ Chapter 5.) - -The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in -_Cheddar Gorge_ suggests that "it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, -discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that -accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in -Alice in Wonderland." - -All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet: - - _Dans le Chester sec et rose - A longues dents, l'Anglais mord._ - - In the Chester dry and pink - The long teeth of the English sink. - -Edam and Gouda - _Edam in Peace and War_ - -There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men -on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, -excellent cheeses. - -Pepys' _Diary_, March 2,1663 - - Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of - the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland - cheese for cannon balls. - - _The Harbinger_ (Vermont), December 11, 1847 - -The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world. -Known as "red balls" in England and _katzenkopf,_ "cat's head," in -Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being -round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas. - -Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is -horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the -ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese -potted with sauterne. Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to -develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for -Edam. - -The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed -(black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of -Friesland and Noord Holland). - -The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, -come from South Holland. Some are specially made for the Jewish trade -and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes -thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on -black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're -also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa. - -"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides. - -Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss - - When the working woman - Takes her midday lunch, - It is a piece of Gruyère - Which for her takes the place of roast. - -Victor Meusy - -Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkäse, grand Gruyère from -France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and -glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making -and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size -of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye -of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear. - -Gruyère does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen -cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them; -let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This -variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes -at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles. - -Gruyère Trauben (Grape Gruyère) is aged in Neuchâtel wine in -Switzerland, although most Gruyère has been made in France since its -introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and -another is called Comté from its origin in Franche-Comté. - -A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to Italy where -it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese called Raper, and -now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, in fact, because of its -piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable quality, is simulated -everywhere, even in Switzerland. - -Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as Finland, we -get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with -all possible faults--from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly -cheese, to too few--cracked, dried-up, collapsed or utterly ruined by -molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked -genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six -years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever. - -Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in cheese -cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in France), and -it is said that the rank of a family is determined by the age and -quality of the cheese in its larder. - - -Feta and Casere - -The Greeks have a name for it--Feta. Their neighbors call it Greek -cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to honey. The two together -make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and as blinding white as a plate of -fresh Ricotta smothered with sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by -shipping the cheese all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of -milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in -brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat -sharp, but superbly spicy. - -When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping -through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos -Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then -compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This -gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made -us bleat for more Feta. - - -Gorgonzola - -Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including -Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all -other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many -epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the -highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it -has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when -fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich -green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is -eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort. - - -Hablé Crème Chantilly - -The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is -Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package: -"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful -freshness." - -This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was hailed by Sheila -Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as -Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a -new star: - - Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest - that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a historic event and that - in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that - the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady - of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on - the first Camembert. - -Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la crème made in -Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish -triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is -a very special product that has never been made on this earth before," -and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, -"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor -combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have -come my way in a long time." - -And so say we--all of us. - -Hand Cheese - -Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we -consider it great, but because it is usually included among the -eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is -named from having been molded into its final shape by hand. -Universally popular with Germanic races, it is too strong for the -others. To our mind, Hand cheese never had anything that Allgäuer or -Limburger hasn't improved upon. - -It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of beer and -drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with caraway seeds, the -most natural spice for curds. - - -Limburger - -Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it was -brought over by German-American immigrants; but England never took to -it. This is eloquently expressed in the following entry in the English -_Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_: - - Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently offensive - odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed to partially - decompose before pressing. It is very little known in this - country, and might be less so with advantage to consumers. - -But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has brought -gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes since it came to -light in the province of Lüttich in Belgium. It has been Americanized -for almost a century and is by now one of the very few cheeses -successfully imitated here, chiefly in New York and Wisconsin. - -Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green -County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan -that was accustomed to park in the little town of Monroe where it was -marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump -the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were -left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The Limburger was -finally stored safely underground. - - -Livarot - -Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine of them -all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem dedicated to all the -great French cheeses, of which we give a free translation: - - In the dog days - In its overflowing dish - Livarot gesticulates - Or weeps like a child. - - -Münster - - At the diplomatic banquet - One must choose his piece. - All is politics, - A cheese and a flag. - - You annoy the Russians - If you take Chester; - You irritate the Prussians - In choosing Münster. - - -Victor Meusy - -Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, does not -fare well in England. Although over here we consider Münster far -milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in _When Madame -Cooks_ will have none of it: - -I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes -during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have -proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill -people permanently. - - -Neufchâtel - - If the cream cheese be white - Far fairer the hands that made them. - - Arthur Hugh Clough - -Although originally from Normandy, Neufchâtel, like Limburger, was so -long ago welcomed to America and made so splendidly at home here that -we may consider it our very own. All we have against it is that it has -served as the model for too many processed abominations. - -Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano - -Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on bread. But -when well aged, let us say up to a century, it becomes Rock of -Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for grating. It is easy to -believe that the so-called "Spanish cheese" used as a barricade by -Americans in Nicaragua almost a century ago was none other than the -almost indestructible Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy. - -The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. days with -the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers not only for its -energy value but as a convenient form of rations, since every army -travels on its stomach and can't go faster than its impedimenta. The -last notable mention of cheese in war was the name of the _Monitor_: -"A cheese box on a raft." - -Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, -sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups such as onion and -minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged. - -Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both Parmesan -and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in Argentina. Romano -and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names for the strong, -medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that sell for considerably -less. Most of it is now shipped from Sardinia. There are several -different kinds: Pecorino Dolce (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino -Romano Cacio, which relates it to Caciocavallo. - -Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of Pecorino are -soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., in her "Letter from -Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable _Little Book of Cheese_, writes: - - Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, had - provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread and a slab - of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any "thou" for either) ... - But that cheese was Paradise; and the flask was emptied, and a - wood dove cooing made you think that the flask's contents were in - a crystal goblet instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and - the cheese broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses. - - -Pont L'Evêque - -This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic made since -the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert cheese whose -excellence is brought out best by a sound claret or tawny port. - - -Port-Salut (_See_ Trappist) - - -Provolone - -Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as -Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and such great -ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here -because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable -in the Americas. - -With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is put up in -all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, pears, bells, a -regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of sizes, up to a monumental -hundred-pound bas-relief imported for exhibition purposes by Phil -Alpert. - - -Roquefort - -Homage to this _fromage!_ Long hailed as _le roi_ Roquefort, it has -filled books and booklets beyond count. By the miracle of _Penicillium -Roqueforti_ a new cheese was made. It is placed historically back -around the eighth century when Charlemagne was found picking out the -green spots of Persillé with the point of his knife, thinking them -decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, recorded in -their annals that when they regaled him with Roquefort (because it was -Friday and they had no fish) they also made bold to tell him he was -wasting the best part of the cheese. So he tasted again, found the -advice excellent and liked it so well he ordered two _caisses_ of it -sent every year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested -that it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with -blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening. - -Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from mice and -rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be expected to send an -escort of cats from their chalky caves to guard them--even for -Charlemagne. There is no telling how many cats were mustered out in -the caves, in those early days, but a recent census put the number at -five hundred. We can readily imagine the head handler in the caves -leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster -and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese -also employ cats to patrol their storage caves, Roquefort holds the -record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as -rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown -away but greatly prized. - - -Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese - -The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for whey -cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, a kind of -clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from Switzerland in a hard, -truncated cone wrapped in a piece of paper that says: - - To be used grated only - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese - Made of skimmed milk and herbs - - To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? Try the - contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading mixed with butter, - excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, spaghetti, potatoes, soup, - etc. Can be used in place of any other cheese. _Do not take too - much, you might spoil the flavor_. - -We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an envelope, -and to this day, six months later, the scent of Sapsago clings 'round -it still. - - -Stilton - - _Honor for Cheeses_ - - Literary and munching circles in London are putting quite a lot - of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton cheese. There is a - Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir John Squire at the head, and - already the boys are fighting. - - One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument. - - This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton itself, - although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a pretty effective - cheese-shaped figure and call it "Dolorosa." - - The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who first - introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group showing Mrs. - Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and introducing it, - while the Stilton curtsies.) - - T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a monument, - but wants to establish a Foundation for the Preservation of - Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this plan would depend - largely on the site selected for the treasure house and the cost - of obtaining a curator who could, or would, give his whole time - to the work. - - Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, agrees with - Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best form. - - "I should like," he says, "something irrelevant--gargoyles, - perhaps." - - I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there. - - I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this great - movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube Goldberg. - - If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be established - between England and America, although the exchange, in the case - of Stilton, would have to be all on England's side. - - We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while England - furnishes the cheese. - - There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two - countries. - - Robert Benchley, in _After 1903--What?_ - -When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an endless -after-dinner conversation piece to which England points with pride. -For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's -introduction to this book. - - -Taleggio and Bel Paese - -When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported Bel Paese -some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to America. But as the -years went on and imitations were made in many lands, Galbini deemed -it wise to set up his own factory in _our_ beautiful country. However, -the domestic Bel Paese and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino -just didn't have that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the -German copy called Schönland, after the original, or the French Fleur -des Alpes. - -Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked up the -market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini hit the -jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the sharpest, most -sophisticated pungence of them all. - - -Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka - -In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. Always of the -elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du Salut from the -original home of the Trappist monks in their chief French abbey, it is -also set apart from the ordinary Canadians under the name of Oka, from -the Trappist monastery there. It is made by Trappist monks all over -the world, according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist -Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in Kentucky. - -This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You can't go wrong -if you look for the monastery name stamped on, such as Harzé in -Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, -and so forth. - -Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without benefit -of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the Lion Brand. It -is one of the finest American cheeses in which we have ever sunk a -fang. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Four_ - -Native Americans - - -American Cheddars - -The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around Plymouth by -Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese from the homeland -but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof of our ability to -manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the fact that by 1790 we were -exporting it back to England. - -It was called Cheddar after the English original named for the village -of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it made a new name -for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the section of New York State -where it was first made best. Herkimer still equals its several -distinguished competitors, Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, -Pineapple, Sage, Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn. - -The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, Cheddar, while -here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its -prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese -because of its affinity for the all-American dessert. - -The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in Rome, New -York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer County Cheddar -already widely known, this established "New York" as the preferred -"store-boughten" cheese. - -An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer Wooden Nutmeg -Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting book, _They Broke the -Prairies_. A Yankee named Silvanus Ferris, "the most successful -dairyman of Herkimer County," in the first decades of the 1800's -teamed up with Robert Nesbit, "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They -bought from farmers in the region and sold in New York City. And -"according to the business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to -cheapen the cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a -bad market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived in -a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, the seller, -unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the market price, snapped -up the offer. - -Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market, -so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years -fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer, -Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack. - -Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured, -and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and -described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their -states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and -Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon -and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of -Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as -Cheddars at all, although they are basically that. - - -Brick - -Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives -America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too -close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its -crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more -distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our -opinion is less worth bragging about. - -It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and -melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its -taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this -has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most -appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To -make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added. - -About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County, -Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole -cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked -firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in -the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of -bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this -double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to -the confusion about which came first in originating the name. - -The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and -they ripen slowly, taking up to two months. - -We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from -Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York. - -Colorado Blackie Cheese - -A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese -map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles -Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. This is a proud new -American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in -England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable -characters all on their own. - - -Coon Cheese - -Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at a higher -temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from the growth of -mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more ordinary Cheddars to -make them look like Coon, which always brings a 10 percent premium -above the general run. - -Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from a host of -admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in Phineas Beck's -_Kitchen_, who raised it to the par of French immortals by calling it -Fromage de Coon. Clementine used it "with scintillating success in -countless French recipes which ended with the words _gratiner au four -et servir tres chaud_. She made _baguettes_ of it by soaking sticks -three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in lukewarm -milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs and browning -them instantaneously in boiling oil." - - -Herkimer County Cheese - -The standard method for making American Cheddar was established in -Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been rigidly maintained -down to this day. Made with rennet and a bacterial "starter," the curd -is cut and pressed to squeeze out all of the whey and then aged in -cylindrical forms for a year or more. - -Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, sharp and -nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale -orange color when it is properly aged. - - -Isigny - -Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It seems to be -extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, for it never meant -to be anything more than another Camembert, of which we have plenty of -imitation. - -Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect Isigny. -The curd was carefully prepared according to an original formula, -washed and rubbed and set aside to come of age. But when it did, alas, -it was more like Limburger than Camembert, and since good domestic -Limburger was then a dime a pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet -in shape the newborn resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. -So they cut it down and named it after the delicate French Creme -d'lsigny. - - -Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack - -Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California county -where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, and only now -takes its full name after sixty years of popularity on the West Coast. -Because it is little known in the East and has to be shipped so far, -it commands the top Cheddar price. - -Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto coloring. -It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it gets sharper -with age and more expensive because of storage costs. - - -Liederkranz - -No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and so -deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of Song." - -Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young delicatessen -keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an -imitation of Bismarck Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the -imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and -Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz singing -society, didn't feel like singing without it. But Emil's attempts at -imitation only added indigestion to their dejection, until one -day--_fabelhaft!_ One of those cheese dream castles in Spain came -true. He turned out a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow -little marvel that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old -Schlosskäse. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized Limburger, both a -man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious women adored. - -Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz customers. It soon -became as internationally known as tabasco from Texas or Parisian -Camembert which it slightly resembles. Borden's bought out Frey in -1929 and they enjoy telling the story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E -Day in Paris, sent to his family in Indiana, only a few miles from the -factory at Van Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was -"the finest cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, -there was Liederkranz. - -Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between -two foreign immortals in the following recipe: - - - Schnitzelbank Pot - -1 ripe Camembert cheese -1 Liederkranz -1/8 pound imported Roquefort -1/4 pound butter -1 tablespoon flour -1 cup cream -1/2 cup finely chopped olives -1/4 cup canned pimiento -A sprinkling of cayenne - - Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of Camembert - and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any thick part off, - or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the - Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix - into an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will - turn the cheese black in cooking. - - Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a smooth, - creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, and mix in the - olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle well with cayenne and - put into a pot to mellow for a few days, or much longer. - -The name _Schnitzelbank_ comes from "school bench," a game. This -snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party and stein songs. -It is also the affinity-spread with rye and pumpernickel, and may be -served in small sandwiches or on crackers, celery and such, to make -appetizing tidbits for cocktails, tea, or cider. - -Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is eaten best at -room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If kept in the -refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of hours before serving. -Since it is a natural cheese mixture, which has gone through no -process or doping with preservative, it will not keep more than two -weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is the sort of ideal the factory -processors shoot at with their olive-pimiento abominations. Once -you've potted your own, you'll find it gives the same thrill as -garnishing your own Liptauer. - - -Minnesota Blue - -The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the Mississippi, -in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has established a -distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the state. Although the -Roquefort process of France is followed and the cheese is inoculated -in the same way by mold from bread, it can never equal the genuine -imported, marked with its red-sheep brand, because the milk used in -Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, and the caves are sandstone instead of -limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right. - - -Pineapple - -Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its flavor, -although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is noticeable -near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate through to the -Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese have tampered with the -original, so today you can't be sure of anything except getting a -smaller size every year or two, at a higher price. Originally six -pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk to nearly six ounces. The proper -bright-orange, oiled and shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly -lemon. - -Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the side-board -under a silver bell also made to represent a pineapple. You cut a top -slice off the cheese, just as you would off the fruit, and there was a -rose-colored, fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a -special silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was -put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept the -cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the rind the -shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some salubrious cold -Fondue or salad. - -Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked harder, -Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net that makes -diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, simulating the sections of -the fruit. It is a pioneer American product with almost a century and -a half of service since Lewis M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in -Litchfield County, Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and -made a deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what -before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese. - -Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in old England, -also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the hanging up of -Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four -sustaining strings. - - - Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State - -The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called originally, -shows the several phases most cheeses have gone through, from their -simple, honest beginnings to commercialization, and sometimes back to -the real thing. - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ has an early Sage -recipe: - - This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and - greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it is given thus: - Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage leaves with an equal - quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze out the juice. Add this to - the extract of rennet and stir into the milk as much as your - taste may deem sufficient. Break the curd when it comes, salt it, - fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn - the cheese every day. - -_Fancy Cheese in America, lay_ Charles A. Publow, records the -commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a century or two -later, in 1910: - - Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar variety. Its - distinguishing features are a mottled green color and a sage - flavor. The usual method of manufacture is as follows: One-third - of the total amount of milk is placed in a vat by itself and - colored green by the addition of eight to twelve ounces of - commercial sage color to each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn - leaves (unavailable in England) or other substances are used for - coloring, the amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then - made up by the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the whey - the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, however, to mix - the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is - secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed - over the curd with an atomizer. The curd is then salted and - pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes. - - A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York State - College of Agriculture by simply dropping green coloring, made - from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after - milling. An even green mottling is thus easily secured without - additional labor. Sage flavoring extract is sprayed over the curd - by an atomizer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient - for a hundred pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses. - -A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) method: - - Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at present the - cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild sage because it has - the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, thujone, is diluted with - water, 250 parts to one, and either added to the milk or sprayed - over the curds, one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk. - -In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing today, we -wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this reply: - - Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best native - Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only one factory - making it and that is my friend, George Crowley's. He makes a - limited amount for my Vermont Country Store. It is the fine - old-time full cream cheese, flavored with real sage. - - On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get enough sage - cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin cheesemaker if he - would make some. Said he would but couldn't at that time--because - the alfalfa wasn't ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to - do with sage cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese - with a synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green." - - So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw George - Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We don't use - synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that." - - "Then what do you use, George?" I inquired. - - "We use real sage." - - "Why?" - - "Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic stuff." - -The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on it: - - Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to full - flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor recalling - smoked cheese, although not related in any way. Mildly resinous - like that Near East one packed in pine, suggesting the well-saged - dressing of a turkey. A round mouthful of luscious mellowness, - with a bouquet--a snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just - a soupçon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of herb to - delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is the _véritable - vert_, green cheese--the moon is made of it! _Vert véritable._ A - general favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for - generations of lusty crumblers. - - -Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese - -We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together with some -Vermont store cheese and some crackers. - - This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store cheese--it's been - in old country stores for generations and we have been pioneers - in spreading the word about it. It is, of course, a natural aged - cheese, no processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made - the same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and also has - holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages faster. - - Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth century - and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading cheesemaking - state in the Union? When I was a lad, every town in Vermont had - one or more cheese factories. Now there are only two left--not - counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese! - - The crackers are the old-time store cracker--every Vermonter - used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and - eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold - milk, with a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These crackers are - not sweet, not salt, and as such make a good base for - anything--swell with clam chowder, also with toasted cheese.... - - -Tillamook - -It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to record the -story of Oregon's great Tillamook. _The Cheddar Box_, by Dean Collins, -comes neatly boxed and bound in golden cloth stamped with a purple -title, like the rind of a real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled _Cheese -Cheddar_, and Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled -Tillamook and molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume -I from a noted _littérateur_, and never could get him to come across -with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from a note on the -flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an excellent cheese, full -cream and medium sharp, and a unique set of books in which Volume II -suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are to be tasted, others to be -swallowed, and some few to be chewed and digested.'" - - -Wisconsin Longhorn - -Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it is only -fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of national standard, -even though it's not nearly so fancy or high-priced as some of the -regional natives that can't approach its enormous output. It's one of -those all-purpose round cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. -We are specially partial to it. - -Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all of these -thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as -Wisconsin alone. - -Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional competitors -ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no annatto coloring has been -added, through Green Bay cheese to Wisconsin Redskin and Martha -Washington Aged, proudly set forth by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who -is said to have "won more prizes in forty years than any ten -cheesemakers put together." - -To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie cheese, -the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, recognizing the -truth of Eugene Field's jingle: - - Apple pie without cheese - Is like a kiss without a squeeze. - -Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made legal and -the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. It's still in -force: - - _Butter and cheese to be served._ Every person, firm or - corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or restaurant shall - serve with each meal for which a charge of twenty-five cents or - more is made, at least two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin butter - and two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin cheese. - -Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces so much -Swiss that the state is sometimes called Swissconsin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Five_ - -Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - - - That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even - now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all - its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, - metaphysics and poetry. - - Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE - - -Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch -your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your -Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden -_fromages_ such as Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures -thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the -Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, -to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no -matter how you slice it. - -Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American -trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe -marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled -red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the -traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are -out of focus, out of order and out of this world. - -Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by -braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these -degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer -or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down -with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank -goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum -Turn Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream. - -In view of all this, we can only look to the standard cookbooks for -salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, our thoughtful mothers, -wives and sweethearts who have saved the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If -it weren't for these Fanny Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal -Welsh Rabbit would be a lost art--lost in sporting male attempts to -improve upon the original. - -The girls are still polite about the whole thing and protectively -pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to "Rarebit" in their -culinary guides. We have heard that once a club of ladies in high -society tried to high-pressure the publishers of Mr. Webster's -dictionary to change the old spelling in their favor. Yet there is a -lot to be said for this more genteel and appetizing rendering of the -word, for the Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of -cheesemongery, male or female. - -Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more -than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of Rabbits: No. 1, -the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made -with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, -there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking -encyclopedias give up to a dozen variants. Actually there are easily -half a gross of valid ones in current esteem. - -The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid ingredient, but -both the beer and the milk are used only one way--warm, or anyway at -room temperature. And again for the two, there is but one traditional -cheese--Cheddar, ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This -is also called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin -Longhorn, mouse, and even rat. - -The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes dozens of -varieties under different names, regional or commercial. These are -easily identified as sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses: - - sight: Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's one of those - round cheeses that also tastes round in the mouth. - - hearing: By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a melon-picker, - can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready for the Rabbit. - When you hear your dealer say, "It's six months old or more," - enough said. - - smell: A scent as fresh as that of the daisies and herbs the - mother milk cow munched "will hang round it still." Also a slight - beery savor. - - touch: Crumbly--a caress to the fingers. - - taste: The quintessence of this fivefold test. Just cuddle a - crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the taste buds it's - prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's proof it will melt in - the pan. - -Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 -temperance alternative) we must point out that beer has a special -affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in -their names for Welsh Rabbit, _Fromage Fondue à la Bière_ and _Fondue -à l'Anglaise_. - -To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may have a -preference all his own, for here the question comes up of how it melts -best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, chop, cut, scrape or -crumble it in the fingers? This will vary according to one's -temperament and the condition of the cheese. Generally, for best -results it is coarsely grated. When it comes to making all this into a -rare bit of Rabbit there is: - - -The One and Only Method - -Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding aluminum -and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering water in the -lower one, but don't let the water boil up or touch the top pan. - -Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of butter or -margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly grated cheese, -usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with one-half cup of -liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't necessary for a cheese that -should melt by itself.) - -The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together and kept -from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction only, over an even -heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, sterling silver or -porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft metal--the taste may come -off to taint the job. - -Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and add it -gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let it come to -the bubbling point, and never let it boil. - -Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will take two or -three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an -instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is -smooth. The consistency and velvety smoothness depend a good deal on -whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added. - -The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle the top -with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any case set it forth -as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast hellishly hot, whether it's -browned or buttered on one side or both. - -Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name was -Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." Something very -similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to cool down--when it's -cold it's cold all over, and you can't resuscitate it by heating. - - -BASIC WELSH RABBIT - - No. 1 (with beer) - -2 tablespoons butter -3 cups grated old Cheddar -1/2 teaspoon English dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with -1/2 cup light beer or ale -4 slices hot buttered toast - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, stirring - steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon in one - direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt your rhythmic - stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of the beer-and-egg - mixture until it's all used up. - - It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve the - essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick it out as - smooth as velvet. - - Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit - is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of - cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting stringy or rubbery. - Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast - and serve instantly on hot plates. - -Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and some -aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side with cold -butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot plate, buttered -side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous untoasted side so it -can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady Llanover's recipe, which -appears on page 52 of this book.) - -Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, there is now -no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, -croutons and crackers, to infinity. - - - No. 2 (with milk) - -For a rich milk Rabbit use 1/2 cup thin cream, evaporated milk, -whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. Then, to -keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or leave -it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, the -use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our feeling is -that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out. - -Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and more -cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against stringiness. -When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that a teaspoon or so of -cornstarch generally takes its place. - -Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and stirring, -so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience and rhythm. As a -rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is almost melted, and speed -of stirring slows when the eggs and last ingredients go in. - -Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps up the -flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half -teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you -are fancy-free. As both black and white pepper are now held in almost -equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do -the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco -sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but some addicts can't -leave it out any more than they can swear off the Worcestershire. - -The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that goes for -milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So let us consider -the compromise of our old friend Frederick Philip Stieff, the -Baltimore _homme de bouche_, as he set it forth for us years ago in -_10,000 Snacks_: "The idea of cooking a Rabbit with beer is an -exploded and dangerous theory. Tap your keg or open your case of ale -or beer and serve _with_, not in your Rabbit." - - - The Stieff Recipe BASIC MILK RABBIT (_completely -surrounded by a lake of malt beverages_) - -2 cups grated sharp cheese -3 heaping tablespoons butter -1-1/2 cups milk -4 eggs -1 heaping tablespoon mustard -2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce -Pepper, salt and paprika to taste--then add more of each. - - Grease well with butter the interior of your double boiler so - that no hard particles of cheese will form in the mixture later - and contribute undesirable lumps. - - Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add butter - and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should be indulged in - until Rabbit is ready for serving. - - Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, pepper, salt - and paprika. These should be beaten until light and then slowly - poured into the double boiler. Nothing now remains to be done - except to stir and cook down to proper consistency over a fairly - slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the - rabbit from the spoon and spell the word _finis_ on the surface. - Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who - does not attack it at once. - - This is sufficient for six gourmets or four gourmands. - -_Nota bene_: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should never be of the -consistency whereby it may be used to tie up bundles, nor yet should -it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor. - - - Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit - - Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and cow's - milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so much as to - drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread less than 1/4 - inch thick, to be quite crisp, and spread it very thinly with - fresh, cold butter on the toasted side. (It must not be - saturated.) Lay the toasted cheese upon the untoasted bread side - and serve immediately on a very hot plate. The butter on the - toast can, of course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten - without butter.) - -From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen still call -Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover goes on to point out -that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and the Melted or Stewed Buck -Rabbit of England (which has become our American standard) are as -different in the making as the regional cheeses used in them, and she -says that while doctors prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for -invalids, the stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to -strong digestions." - -English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese of Wales -and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent "threads of -unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments (that may be pulled -from its tough and tenacious substance)." - -Yet not all of the references are complimentary. - -Thus Shakespeare in _King Lear_: - - Look, look a mouse! - Peace, peace;--this piece of toasted cheese will do it. - -And Sydney Smith's: - - Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted - meat has led to suicide. - -But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: - - _The Welsh Enter Heaven_ - - The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth of good - singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear excellent - singing outside the walls. Why are not those singers here with - me?" - - St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they - say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" - - The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and - Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." - - St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands of the - Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, St. Peter went - to consult with St. David, who, with a smile, was reading the - works of Caradoc Evans. - - St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just inside the - gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in front of it" This - St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the sizzling, browning - cheese was wafted over the walls and, with loud shouts, a great - concourse of the Welsh came sprinting in. When sufficient were - inside to make up a male voice choir of a hundred, St Peter - slammed the gates. However, it is said that these are the only - Welsh in Heaven. - -And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice grow and grow -to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but -toasted cheese. - -Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme: - - The Irishman loved usquebaugh, - The Scot loved ale called Bluecap. - The Welshman, he loved toasted cheese, - And made his mouth like a mousetrap. - - The Irishman was drowned in usquebaugh, - The Scot was drowned in ale, - The Welshman he near swallowed a mouse - But he pulled it out by the tail. - -And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, this tune in -_Merry Wives of Windsor_: - - 'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted cheese. - -An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English with Dr. -William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen enlivened the -_Blackwoods Magazine_ era with _Ten Tales_: - - [Illustration] Dr. Maginn's Rabbit - - Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for supper. It is - the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy eating. I like it best - in the genuine Welsh way, however--that is, the toasted bread - buttered on both sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef - with mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire _thoroughly_ saturated, while, in the - process of toasting, with genuine porter, black pepper, and - shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the assertion that this is - not a heavy supper for a man who has been busy all day till - dinner in reading, writing, walking or riding--who has occupied - himself between dinner and supper in the discussion of a bottle - or two of sound wine, or any equivalent--and who proposes to - swallow at least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper. - -The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct -summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master." - -The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper sandwich -was served, a century and a half ago; for it was served as a savory to -sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form: - - - After-Dinner Rabbit - - Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides and soak - to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of sharp old cheese - in butter in an iron skillet, with an added spot of beer and dry - English mustard. Stir steadily with a wooden spoon and, when - velvety, serve a-sizzle on piping hot beer-soaked toast. - -While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy dish of -Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in Elizabethan -London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also called a Buck Rabbit, -was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where Dr. -Johnson later presided. And it must have been the pick of the town -back in the days when barrooms still had sawdust on the floor, for the -learned Doctor endorsed old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: -"There is nothing which has been contrived by man by which so much -happiness is produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as -may be judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to -"a baby's ear dropped in sawdust." - -Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the world's first -Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't have to look far for -on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of letters at "The Cheese," as -it was affectionately called. To a man they sang praises for that -piping hot dish of preserved and beatified milk. - -Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester of -_Punch_, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to the memory of -Lovelace: - - Champagne will not a dinner make, - Nor caviar a meal - Men gluttonous and rich may take - Those till they make them ill - If I've potatoes to my chop, - And after chop have cheese, - Angels in Pond and Spiers's shop - Know no such luxuries. - -All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a reasonable -substitute. The base of this is what was once quaintly called a -"hot-water bath." This was a sort of miniature wash boiler just big -enough to fit in snugly half a dozen individual tins, made squarish -and standing high enough above the bath water to keep any of it from -getting into the stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since -such a tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of -fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or even -small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler or chafing -dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the "cheese stewer" in -stainless steel, silver or glass. - -In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, "bubbling -and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding that's still famous. -Although down the centuries the recipe has been kept secret, the -identifiable ingredients have been itemized as follows: "Tender steak, -savory oyster, seductive kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent -pepper and delicate paste"--not to mention mushrooms. And after the -second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, bitter, or -the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a dented pewter pot, -"the stewed Cheshire cheese." - -Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by tradition and -appetite from the time when Charles II aled and regaled Nell Gwyn at -"The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to have sampled this "kind of -a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served piping hot in the square shallow -tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately -colored toast." - -Among early records is this report of Addison's in _The Spectator_ of -September 25,1711: - - They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about midnight, when - the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. He that yawns widest, - and at the same time so naturally as to produce the most yawns - amongst his spectators, carries home the cheese. - -Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of Simpson's in the -Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest that drew crowds to his -fashionable eating and drinking place. He would set forth a huge -portion of cheese and wager champagne and cigars for the house that no -one present could correctly estimate the weight, height and girth of -it. - -As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson to "The -Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met there, showed -that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was tuppence, and that this -was also the amount of the usual tip. - - - Ye Original Recipe - -1-1/2 ounces butter -1 cup cream -1-1/2 cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, snappier, richer, -and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) - - Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese and let - it stew. - - You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual tin, or - pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top under a - blistering salamander. - - The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your - own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own - Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast - -It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not -lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in -tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf. - -This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of Johnson's -time supped while they smoked their church wardens, received its -highest praise from an American newspaper woman who rhapsodized in -1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin shaving of crisp, golden -toast in hot silver saucers--so hot that the cheese was the substance -of thick cream, the flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries -commingled." - -This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses hold a -trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched the milk. -Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyère, Parmesan wafts the scent of -Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of England is perfumed with the -petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine. - - - Oven Rabbit (FROM AN OLD RECIPE) - - Chop small 1/2 pound of cooking cheese. Put it, with a piece of - butter the size of a walnut, in a little saucepan, and as the - butter melts and the cheese gets warm, mash them together, - - When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, 1/2 teacupful of ale, a little - cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon one way only, - until it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil - it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the - Rarebit upon them, and set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before - serving. - - - Yorkshire Rabbit _(originally called Gherkin Buck, -from a pioneer recipe_) - - Put into a saucepan 1/2 pound of cheese, sprinkle with pepper - (black, of course) to taste, pour over 1/2 teacup of ale, and - convert the whole into a smooth, creamy mass, over the fire, - stirring continually, for about 10 minutes. - - In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes altogether is - the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot toast, place a piece of - broiled bacon on the top of each and serve as hot as possible. - - - Golden Buck - - A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer (No. 1) - plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, gave it its - shining name a couple of centuries ago. Nowadays some chafing - dish show-offs try to gild the Golden Buck with dashes of ginger - and spice. - - - Golden Buck II - - This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips. - - - The Venerable Yorkshire Buck - - Spread 1/2-inch slices of bread with mustard and brown in hot - oven. Then moisten each slice with 1/2 glass of ale, lay on top a - slice of cheese 1/4-inch thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of - that. Put back in oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon - crisp, and serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale. - -Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit. - - - Yale College Welsh Rabbit (MORIARTY'S) - -1 jigger of beer -1/4 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/4 teaspoon mustard -1-1/2 cups grated or shaved cheese -More beer - - Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on the - seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, moistening - from time to time with more beer, a pony or two at a time. - - When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this amount) - and serve with still more beer. - -There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, -with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in -the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but -taps a keg to drink with it. - -The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered by the use -of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is often used today -and is thought more sophisticated by some than the red cayenne of -Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish Rabbit, which is precisely the -same as our Basic Recipe No. 1. - - - Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit - -1-1/2 tablespoons butter -1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both -1-1/2 teaspoon chili powder -1 small can kidney beans, drained -1-1/2 tablespoons catsup -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire -Salt -2 cups grated cheese - - Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili powder; add - kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the cheese until melted. - - Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or crackers, - toasted and buttered. - -In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular modern ones -are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in from everywhere, -from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all kinds of quirks, down to -mixing in some dried beef, and there is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit -for reducers, made with farmer cheese and skimmed milk. - -Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the -great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and -more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following -is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, since it has had a -successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only -slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red. - - - Tomato Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -3/4 cup thin cream or evaporated milk -3/4 cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to remove seeds -A pinch of soda -3 cups grated cheese -Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne -2 eggs, lightly beaten - - Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when this - white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato sprinkled with - soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding cheese and seasonings, - and when cooked enough, stir in the eggs to make a creamy - texture, smooth as silk. Serve on buttered whole wheat or graham - bread for a change. - -Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of -bicarbonate of potash." - - - South African Tomato Rabbit - - This is the same as above, except that 1/2 teaspoon of sugar is - used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is poured over baked - pastry cut into squares and sprinkled with parsley, chopped fine, - put in the oven and served immediately. - - - Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc. (OLD BOSTON -STYLE) - -1 tablespoon butter -1 onion, minced -1 teaspoon salt -1 big pinch of pepper -2 cups cooked tomatoes -1 tablespoon sugar -3 cups grated store cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes - with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. Don't let it - boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the pan until it melts. - Then stir in egg gently and serve very hot - - - Tomato Soup Rabbit - -1 can condensed tomato soup -2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt and pepper - - Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and egg - slowly, season and serve hot. - -This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, -housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery Rabbit -if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato. - - - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1-1/2 cups cooked - tomatoes and add 1/2 cup of mashed boiled onions. - - - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy - -1 tablespoon butter -1 small onion, minced -1 small green pepper, minced -1 can tomato soup -3/4 cup milk -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten -1 jigger sherry -Crackers - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to retain its - flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until it's about 1/3 - full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over them. - - - Blushing Bunny - - This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum Tum - Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little rosier with a - lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and the paprika cooked - in from the start, of course. - -Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for dishes, like -Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak -_(Bubblum Squeakum_), and Toad in the Hole. - - - Scotch Woodcock - - Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum Tiddy, but - before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in 2 heaping - tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the buttered toast by - laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs. - - - American Woodchuck - -1-1/2 cups tomato purée -2 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -Cayenne -1 tablespoon brown sugar -Salt and pepper - - Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly melted stir - in the egg and, when almost cooked, add seasonings without ever - interrupting the stirring. Pour over hot toasted crackers or - bread. - -No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar was named -after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of the Scotch -Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with -brown sugar. - - - Running Rabbit (_as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, -First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937_) - - Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in - saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add Worcestershire - sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made toast. - -This running cony can be poured over toast like any other Rabbit, or -over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, or -served like Fondue, in the original cooking bowl or pan, with the -spoon kept moving in it in one direction only and the Rabbit following -the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog -races. - - - Mexican Chilaly - -1 tablespoon butter -3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without seeds -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -3/4 teaspoon salt -Dash of cayenne -1 egg, lightly beaten -2 tablespoons canned tomato juice -Water cress - - Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp and cook - 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and stirring steadily - as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten the egg with the tomato - juice and stir in until the Rabbit is thick and velvety. - - Serve on toast and dress with water cress. - -This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in -spite of the centuries' difference in age. - - - Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit - - Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs to make it - more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve it hot over cold - slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on hot buttered toast, to - make it extra eggy. - - - Grilled Tomato Rabbit - - Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes 1/2-inch thick, season with salt, - pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot both sides with all the - butter that won't slip off. - - Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove and broil - on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the usual toast and - pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is made according to - either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.) - - Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a touch of - horseradish help. - - - Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit - - Slice 1/4-inch thick an equal number of tomato and onion rings. - Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots of butter. Heat in - moderate oven, and when almost cooked remove and broil lightly. - - On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the tomato ones - and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain Grilled Tomato recipe - above. - -For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit. - - - The Devil's Own (_a fresh tomato variant_) - -2 tablespoons butter -1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -A pinch of cayenne -A dash of tabasco sauce -2 tablespoons chili sauce -1/2 cup ale or beer -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. - Keep warm on hot platter while you make the toast and a Basic - Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put - hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot - mixture over. - - - Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded -1/4 pound dried beef, shredded -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1/4 teaspoon pepper -2 cups grated cheese - - Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until mixed well, - then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated cheese until smooth - and creamy. Serve on toast. - -No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called both dried -beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, _tasajo_ on the -other side, and _xarque_ when you get all the way down to Brazil. - - - Kansas Jack Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup cream-style corn -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in cheese - steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and season to - taste. Serve on hot buttered toast. - -Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must have been -easier to make on Baron Münchhausen's "Island of Cheese," where the -cornstalks produced loaves of bread, ready-made, instead of ears, and -were no doubt crossed with long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits -quite as miraculous. - -After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or -canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized -Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which -appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has -everything. - - - Latin-American Corn Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -1 green pepper, chopped -1 large onion, chopped -1/2 cup condensed tomato soup -3 cups grated cheese -1 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1 cup canned corn -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, cover and - cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add cheese with - seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the corn, and when - thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the egg with a little of - the liquid, stir in until thickened and then pour over hot toast - or crackers. - - - Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit - - In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced fresh - mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting over boiling - water 2 cups of grated cheese with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 - teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily and, when partially melted, stir - in a can of condensed tomato soup, previously heated. Then add - the fried mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot - toast or crackers. - - - Celery and Onion Rabbit - -1/2 cup chopped hearts of celery -1 small onion, chopped -1 tablespoon butter -1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheese -Salt and pepper - - In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, - melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir steadily. When - nearly done stir the celery and onion in gradually, until smooth - and creamy. - - Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or under the - grill. - - - Asparagus Rabbit - - Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus - tops for the celery and onion. - - - Oyster Rabbit - -2 dozen oysters and their liquor -1 teaspoon butter -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1 large pinch of salt -1 small pinch of cayenne -3 cups grated cheese - - Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm while - you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is melted add the - eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep stirring. When the - Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, drop in the warm oysters - to heat a little more, and serve on hot buttered toast. - - - Sea-food Rabbits - - _(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, abalone, - squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or crawls on the - bottom of the ocean)_ - - Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or canned - sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make according to - Oyster Rabbit recipe above. - - Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, mixed - according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit with - horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change. - - - "Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit - - The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush bouquet of - as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, cod, salmon, etc.) - as can be sardined together in the whirlpool of melted cheese in - the chafing dish. They also accent it with tidbits of sea food as - above. - - - Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried - - Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the alewife to - the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan haddie, mackerel, cod, - and so on, can be stirred in to make a basic Rabbit more tasty. - Happy combinations are hit upon in mixing leftovers of several - kinds by the cupful. So the odd old cookbook direction, "Add a - cup of fish," takes on new meaning. - - - Grilled Sardine Rabbit - - Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, boned, - halved and grilled, on buttered toast. - - Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as succulent - a grilled Rabbit. - - - Roe Rabbits - - Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other fish, grill - on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit over. Although shad - roe is esteemed the finest, there are many other sapid ones of - salmon, herring, flounder, cod, etc. - - - Plain Sardine Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in place of the - egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of sardines, skinned, - boned and flaked. - - - Anchovy Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East Indian - chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, spread toast - thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and pour the Rabbit over. - - - Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like - - Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and all of - them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a Basic Rabbit over - the fish. - - The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a thin - slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked sturgeon. - - - Smoked Cheddar Rabbit - - With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose palates crave - the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic Rabbit made with - smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, but unsmoked, Cheddar. - We use a two-year-old that Phil Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, - brings down from Canada and has specially smoked in the same - savory room where sturgeon is getting the works. So his Cheddar - absorbs the de luxe flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and - is sold for a fraction of that. - - And just in case you are fishing around for something extra - special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned Bombay ducks, - those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian fish. - - Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky Lapsang - Soochong China tea. - - - Crumby Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup stale bread crumbs - soaked with -1 cup milk -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt -Cayenne -Toasted crackers - - Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. - When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg to thicken the - mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry or buttered, for - contrast with the bread. - - Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a cup of - catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what should be a - white monkey. - - There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which extend all - the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked Rabbit and - consisting of alternate layers of stale bread crumbs and - grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate three-layer Rabbit is - moistened with eggs beaten up with milk, and seasoned with salt - and paprika. - - - Crumby Tomato Rabbit - -2 teaspoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup soft bread crumbs -1 cup tomato soup -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the tomato soup - and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring until velvety. - Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to the bread crumbs. - - - Gherkin or Irish Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup milk (or beer) -A dash of vinegar -1/2 teaspoon mustard -Salt and pepper -1/2 cup chopped gherkin pickles - - Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and seasonings. - Keep stirring until smooth, then add the pickles and serve. - -This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle. - - - Dutch Rabbit - - Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy skillet - with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a splash of beer. - - Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or ale and - pour the Rabbit over them. - - The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer and - delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead. - -Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in the use of -prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of things the hard -way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with water before every meal, -while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do. - - - Pumpernickel Rabbit - - This German deviation is made exactly the same as the Dutch - Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in color. - Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in heated dark beer - (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese melted in the skillet is - also stirred up with brunette beer. - -Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the two to -commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or black -pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and the Cheddar is -noted for its beery smell, there is further affinity here. An old -English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread and cheese are the two -targets against death." - -By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been coined when -Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. Contemptuously he -spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "_Bon -pour Nicole_" in French. - - - Gruyère Welsh Rabbit _au gratin_ - - Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them lightly, - lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching slice of - imported Gruyère 3/8-inch thick. Pepper to taste and cover with - bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 minutes and rush to the ultimate - consumer. - -To our American ears anything _au gratin_ suggests "with cheese," so -this Rabbit _au gratin_ may sound redundant. To a Frenchman, however, -it means a dish covered with bread crumbs. - - - Swiss Cheese Rabbit - -1/2 cup white wine, preferably Neufchâtel -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1/2 saltspoon paprika -2 egg yolks - - Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until it melts, - then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at least 3 more minutes - until smooth. - - - Sherry Rabbit - -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk -1/2 cup sherry -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -A dash of paprika - - Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and - when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until - almost all of the cheese is melted, then add sherry. When smooth - and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and - after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color. - - - Spanish Sherry Rabbit - -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -1 bouillon cube, mashed -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 cups milk -1-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 jigger sherry - - Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in the - cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 minutes, and when - well-blended stir in the sherry and serve on hot, buttered toast. - - - Pink Poodle - -2 tablespoons butter -1 tablespoon chopped onion -1 tablespoon flour -1 jigger California claret -1 cup cream of tomato soup -A pinch of soda -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 teaspoon paprika -A dash of powdered cloves -3 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in flour, - wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir in cheese - slowly until melted and finish off by thickening with the egg and - stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve on crisp, buttered toast - with a dry red wine. - -Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss ones with -Gruyère in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly drunk with anything from -a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But for most of us, a deep draught -of beer or ale goes best with an even deeper draught of the mellow -scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow. - - - Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit - -1/8 pound butter -2 cups grated Gruyère -4 eggs, well-beaten -Salt -Pepper -Mustard - - Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, stirring - steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. Season and pour - over dry toast. - -This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up for any -lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the sweets to finish -a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries. - - - Cream Cheese Rabbit - - This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is more - scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply scramble a - half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, and - just before the finish work in the cheese until smooth and serve - on crackers--water crackers for a change. - - - Reducing Rarebit (Tomato Rarebit)[A] - -YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving. - -1/2 pound farmer cheese -2 eggs -1 level tablespoon powdered milk -1 level teaspoon baking powder -1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder -4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or -2 tomatoes, quartered -1 teaspoon caraway seeds -1/4 teaspoon garlic powder -1 teaspoon parsley flakes -1/2 head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber -1/4 cup wine vinegar -Salt and pepper to taste - -[Footnote A: (from _The Low-Calory Cookbook_ by Bernard Koten, -published by Random House)] - - Fill bottom of double boiler with water to 3/4 mark. Sprinkle - salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil over medium flame. When - upper part is hot, put in cheese, powdered milk, baking powder, - gelatin, caraway seeds and pepper and garlic powder to taste. - Mix. Break eggs into this mixture, cook over low flame, - continually stirring. Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and - continue cooking and stirring until tomatoes have been cooked - soft. Remove to lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has - been slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture. - - - Curry Rabbit - -1 tablespoon cornstarch -2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 tablespoon minced chives -2 green onions, minced -2 shallots, minced -1/4 teaspoon imported curry powder -1 tablespoon chutney sauce - - Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald the rest - over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture and stir in the - cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and chutney while - wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and sizzling enough to pour - over buttered toast. - -People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in Rabbits, just -as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables. - - - Ginger Ale Rabbit - - Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 - Rabbit of all time. - - - Buttermilk Rabbit - - Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 Rabbit. To be - consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk Cheese, instead of the - usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. This is milder. - - - Eggnog Rabbit - -2 tablespoons sweet butter -2 cups grated mellow Cheddar -1-1/3 cups eggnog -Dashes of spice to taste. - - After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog and keep - stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or not, depending on - taste and the quality of eggnog employed. - -Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the milkman in -holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been -multiplying as fast as guinea pigs. - - - All-American Succotash Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -3 cups grated cheese -1 cup creamed succotash, strained -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in the - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the creamed - succotash and season to taste. - - Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread. - - - Danish Rabbit - -1 quart warm milk -2 cups grated cheese - - Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot toast in - heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in north Denmark. - - As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to taste. - - Easy English Rabbit - - Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of cheese with - butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few spoonfuls of beer and a - bit of prepared mustard. When smoothly melted, pour over the - piping-hot, beer-soaked toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Six_ - -The Fondue - - -There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart -out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better than a collapsed -soufflé, with his definition: - - Fondue. Also, erroneously, _fondu_. A dish made of melted - cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and bread crumbs. - -Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for centuries has -been one of the world's greatest, to "a combination of melted cheese, -eggs and butter" and explains that the name comes from the French -_fondre_, meaning melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date -_Cook's Quiz_ compiled by TV culinary experts: - - A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread crumbs. - -A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety and -inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the -respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all -have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with its -creamy, nay velvety, smoothness. - -A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black pepper, -nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne pepper, the -luscious gravy of roast turkey--such little matters help to make an -authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme -Brillat-Savarin a century and a half ago brought the original -"receipt" with him and spread it around with characteristic generosity -during the two years of his exile in New York after the French -Revolution. In his monumental _Physiologie du Goût_ he records an -incident that occurred in 1795: - - Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper - Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish, - a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he - (Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to - New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are - brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite - by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion. - -As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at -Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later -had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyère three times a day, as is -the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe -just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur -Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne: - - Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of - your guests. Then take a lump of good Gruyère cheese, weighing - about a third of the eggs, and a nut of butter about half the - weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about - 1-1/2 ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. your lump - of good Gruyère would come to 1/4 pound and your butter to 1/8 - pound.) - - Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the butter - and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces. - - Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden spoon until - the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a little or no salt, - according to the age of the cheese, and a good deal of pepper, - for this is one of the special attributes of this ancient dish. - - Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some of the - best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite freely, a - marvelous effect will be beheld. - -This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the national dish -of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters in his district -laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his Fondue with a spoon instead -of the traditional fork, in the first decade of the 1700's. He tells, -too, of a Fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian -cousins in Paris "about the year 1801." - -The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the master: "By -Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long time about your -Fondues, you have continually made our mouths water. It is high time -to put a stop to all this. We will come and breakfast with you some -day and see what sort of thing this dish is." - -Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them off with -the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each one's place two -dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At each end of the table -stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully wiped, excepting the cork, which -showed distinctly that it had been in the cellar for a long while.... -After the oysters, which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, -a _terrine_ of _foie gras_, a pie with truffles, and finally the -Fondue. The different ingredients had all been assembled in a stewpan, -which was placed on the table over a chafing dish, heated with spirits -of wine. - -"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of -battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of my movements. -They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let -them have the receipt, which I promised them...." - -This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a -good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit -for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." - -This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in -what is called: - - - Neufchâtel Style - -2-1/2 cups grated imported Swiss -1-1/2 tablespoons flour -1 clove of garlic -1 cup dry white wine -Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big mouthfuls, handy - for dunking -1 jigger kirsch -Salt -Pepper -Nutmeg - - The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and mixed well - with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking and a small heated - casserole for serving. Hub the bottom and sides of the blazer - well with garlic, pour in the wine and heat to bubbling, just - under boiling. Add cheese slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir - steadily in one direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a - silver fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on - how salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, freshly - ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the kirsch, stir - steadily and invite guests to dunk their forked bread in the dish - or in a smaller preheated casserole over a low electric or - alcohol burner on the dining table. The trick is to keep the - bubbling melted cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up - and down and around and around. - -The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft -part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your bread comes off -in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine. - -The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests taking -regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese swirling. When -this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has been called in England, -is ready for eating, each in turn thrusts in his fork, sops up a -mouthful with the bread for a sponge and gives the Fondue a final -stir, to keep it always moving in the same direction. All the while -the heat beneath the dish keeps it gently bubbling. - -Such a Neufchâtel party was a favorite of King Edward VII, especially -when he was stepping out as the Prince of Wales. He was as fond of -Fondue as most of the great gourmets of his day and preferred it to -Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of the wine and kirsch that went into -it. - -At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue gets too -thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in the bottom of the -dish, this is forked out by the host and divided among the guests as a -very special dividend. - -Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the Switzerland Cheese -Association, in broadcasting this classical recipe, points out that -any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, including applejack, will be a -valid substitute for the kirsch. To us, applejack seems specially -suited, when we stop to consider our native taste that has married -apple pie to cheese since pioneer times. - -In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible consistency" and -this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese alone, although we use it -chiefly for that. - -In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish of eggs -scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very hot on toasted -bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and -served at once. The reason for this is that all baked Fondues fall as -easily and as far as Soufflés, although the latter are more noted for -this failing. There is a similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, -although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, -stuffed-shirt buildup around any Soufflé, suggesting a dressy dinner, -while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl. - -Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original French Fondue -on the Welsh Rabbit model--to turn it into a sort of French Rabbit. -Although we know that both Gruyère and Emmentaler are what we call -Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich -Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all -sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick -to Savarin's "lump of Gruyère" just as the neighboring French and -Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking -has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the -following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an -Englishman, Eric Weir: - - - Fondue à l'Italienne - - This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really - grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy, - but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but - only once in Italy. - - First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour - and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden - spoon to stand upright or almost. - - Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyère - cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with - salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add - the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding - basin. - - Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a - boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the - basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to - 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it - evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not - bubble over the mixture. - - Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When - the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and - turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep - the shape of the basin. - - Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot. - -The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then -marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being -melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted -here in: - - - All-American Fondue - -1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed -3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine -1-1/2 jiggers applejack - - After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt - together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the - applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus - of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String." - - Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and - poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the - thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to - stale ale or fresh beer. - -We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish -so eagerly, together with the great Gruyère that makes it distinctive. -They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse -and onion soup, that celestial _soupe à l'oignon_ on which snowy -showers of grated Gruyère descend. - -To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue à -l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the -world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and -show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage -Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière. - -Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, -rhapsodic writing about Gruyère and its offspring, the Fondue, -together with the puffed Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese -except Parmesan. - -Parmesan and Gruyère were praised as the two greatest culinary -cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese. - - - Parmesan Fondue - -3 tablespoons butter -1 cup grated Parmesan cheese -4 eggs, lightly beaten -Salt -Pepper - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the - eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only, - until smooth. - - Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the - ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a - fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough. - - - Sapsago Swiss Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -1/2 teaspoon salt -1-1/2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese -2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago -1/2 cup dry white wine -Pepper, black and red, freshly ground -Fingers of toast - - Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth, - fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well - melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in - small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until - velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve - over fingers of toast. - -This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated -pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the -fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, -cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added. - -At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion, -where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs -learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become -stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in -continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of -bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping -it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split -second. - -The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita -as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share -Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural -cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own, -such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a -luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk -cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and -Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants: - - 1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as - Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added - and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and - sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being - melted, though it's really recooked, - - 2. _Vacherin à la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses, - resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is - round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and - aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the - ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the - cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it - is _Tome de Montagne_. - -Here is a good assortment of Fondues: - - - Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -1 clove garlic, crushed -2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese -2 tablespoons hot water - - This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter - until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat. - Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and - velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in - one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a little water takes - the place of a lot of wine.) - - - La Fondue Comtois - - This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made with white wine. - Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish type will serve - splendidly. Also use butter, grated Gruyère, beaten eggs and that - touch of garlic. - - - Chives Fondue - -3 cups grated Swiss cheese -3 tablespoons flour -2 tablespoons butter -1 garlic clove, crushed -3 tablespoons finely chopped chives -1 cup dry white wine -Salt -Freshly ground pepper -A pinch of nutmeg -1/4 cup kirsch - - Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed - with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat - just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour - mix gradually, stirring always in one direction. Salt according - to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground - pepper and the pinch of nutmeg. - - When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in the - kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to dunking. - - Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change for dunking - purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating with the absorbent - bread, or hard rolls. - - - Tomato Fondue - -2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped -1/2 teaspoon dried sweet basil -1 clove garlic -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup dry white wine -2 cups grated Cheddar cheese -Paprika - - Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with garlic, - melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, - add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. Then add cheese, half a - cup at a time, and keep stirring until everything is smooth. - - Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit. - -Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but they're -held together with the common ingredient, tomato. - -Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale -bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make: - - Tomato Baked Fondue - -1 cup tomato juice -1 cup stale bread crumbs -1 cup grated sharp American cheese -1 tablespoon melted butter -Salt -4 eggs, separated and well beaten - - Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, - season with a little or no salt, depending on saltiness of the - cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake - about 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - -BAKED FONDUES - -Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a sensation on -these shores and is still in highest esteem among epicures, the Fondue -America took to its bosom was baked. The original recipe came from the -super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, _La Fondue -au Fromage_. - - - La Fondue au Fromage - - Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, yolks of - eggs and Gruyère, in thin slices for a change. Use red pepper - instead of black, splash in a jigger of kirsch but no white wine. - Finally fold in the egg whites and bake in a mold for 45 minutes. - -We adapted this to our national taste which had already based the -whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit with stale ale or -milk instead of white wine and Worcestershire, mustard and hot -peppers. Today we have come up with this: - - - 100% American Fondue - -2 cups scalded milk -2 cups stale bread crumbs -1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard -Salt -Dash of nutmeg -Dash of pepper -2 cups American cheese (Cheddar) -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. - Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth - mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites stiff, leaving - them slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix - and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a - moderate oven.) - -This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to our way of -thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take the place of the -wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our bland cookery. - - -OTHER FONDUES PLAIN AND FANCY, BAKED AND NOT - - - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy - -3/4 pound sharp cheese, diced -1 can condensed tomato soup -1/2 cup catsup -1/2 teaspoon mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten - - In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly by - constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or fold in the - catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on Melba toast or rusks. - -This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of -cocoa, for a change. - - - Cheese and Rice Fondue - -1 cup cooked rice -2 cups milk -4 eggs, separated and well beaten -1/2 cup grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three - - Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in cheese until - melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, season, fold in stiff - egg whites. Serve hot on toast. - - Corn and Cheese Fondue - -1 cup bread crumbs -1 large can creamed corn -1 small onion, chopped -1/2 green pepper, chopped -2 cups cottage cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 cup milk -2 eggs, well beaten - - Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered casserole set - in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in moderate oven, or until - set. - - - Cheese Fondue - -1 cup grated Cheddar -1/2 cup crumbled Roquefort -1 cup pimento cheese -3 tablespoons cream -3 tablespoons butter -1 teaspoon Worcestershire - - Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and creamy. - Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream or mayonnaise - if too stiff. - - Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted crackers. - - - Brick Fondue - -1/2 cup butter -2 cups grated Brick cheese -1/2 cup warm milk -1/2 teaspoon salt -2 eggs - - Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip in the - warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the eggs, one at a - time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls for each egg to be - beaten separately in cases like this. - - Serve over hot toast or crackers. - - Cheddar Dunk Bowl - -3/4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese -3 tablespoons cream -2/3 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire - - Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with the cream - until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful bowl for dunking in - the original style of Savarin, although this is a static - imitation of the real thing. - - All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, from celery - stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut from Bombay duck. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Seven_ - -Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins - - -There isn't much difference between Cheese Soufflés, Puffs and -Ramekins. The _English Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_, the oldest, -biggest and best of such works in English, lumps Cheese Puffs and -Ramekins together, giving the same recipes for both, although it -treats each extensively under its own name when not made with cheese. - -Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese and bread -crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff again the principal -factor in Soufflé, from the French _souffler_, puff up). - - Basic Soufflé - -3 tablespoons butter or margarine -4 tablespoons flour -1-1/4 cups hot milk, scalded -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until thick and - smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the cooking and - slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat and let cool - somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a light hand and an - upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites and when evenly mixed - pour into a big, round baking dish. (Some butter it and some - don't.) To make sure the top will be even when baked, run a spoon - or knife around the surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the - dish, before baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high - and beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the Soufflé may - fall. The baking takes up to an hour and the egg whites shouldn't - be beaten so stiff they are hard to fold in and contain no air to - expand and puff up the dish. - -To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, -nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, especially in England. - -While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a close -second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all three of these -together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes -below. - - - Parmesan Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small modifications in - the ingredients: - -1 full cup of grated Parmesan -1 extra egg in place of the 1/2 cup of Cheddar cheese -A little more butter -Black pepper, not cayenne - - - Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight changes: - -1-1/4 cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the Cheddar cheese -Nutmeg in place of the cayenne - - - Parmesan-Swiss Soufflé - - Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these little differences: - -1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan in place of -the Cheddar cheese -1/4 teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning. - -Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a -grand dinner. - - - Cheese-Corn Soufflé - - Make as Basic Soufflé, substituting for the scalded milk 1 cup of - sieved and strained juice from cream-style canned corn. - - - Cheese-Spinach Soufflé - - Sauté 1-1/2 cups of finely chopped, drained spinach in butter - with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and then whip it until light - and fluffy. Mix well into the white sauce of the Basic Soufflé - before adding the cheese and following the rest of the recipe. - - - Cheese-Tomato Soufflé - - Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk. - - - Cheese-Sea-food Soufflé - - Add 1-1/2 cups finely chopped or ground lobster, crab, shrimp, - other sea food or mixture thereof, with any preferred seasoning - added. - - - Cheese-Mushroom Soufflé - -1-1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar -1 cup cream of mushroom soup -Paprika, to taste -Salt -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon -2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds - - Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese gradually - and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken the sauce with - egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and finally fold in the - whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds and bake until golden - brown and puffed high (about 1 hour). - - - Cheese-Potato Soufflé (Potato Puff) - -6 potatoes -2 onions -1 tablespoon butter or margarine -1 cup hot milk -3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of pepper -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese - - Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put through a - ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except the egg whites - and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour - into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup of Cheddar on - top and bake in moderate oven about 1/2 hour, until golden-brown - and well puffed. Serve instantly. - - Variations of this popular Soufflé leave out the onion and - simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Sometimes 1 - tablespoon of catsup and another of minced parsley is added to - the mixture. Or onion juice alone, to take the place of the - cooked onions--about a tablespoon, full or scant. - -The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or Soufflé, are inclined -to make it extra peppery, as they do most of their Cheese Soufflés, -with not only "a dust of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be -stood on the face of a sixpence." - - - Cheese Fritter Soufflés - - These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crêpes suzette. - - -PUFFS - - - Three-in-One Puffs - -1 cup grated Swiss -1 cup grated Parmesan -1 cup cream cheese -5 eggs, lightly beaten -salt and pepper - - Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten eggs, - splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly incorporated, put in - ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort of little mold of any - shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 minutes, until richly browned. - -Such miniature Soufflés serve as liaison officers for this entire -section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the -French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. -These may be paper boxes, usually round, earthenware, china, Pyrex, -of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs. - -More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin -dishes, as follows: - - - Fried Puffs - -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/2 cup grated cheese -1 tablespoon flour -Salt -Paprika - - Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and seasonings. - When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, roll in crumbs and - fry. - - - Roquefort Puffs - -1/8 pound genuine French Roquefort -1 egg white, beaten stiff -8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds - - Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on crackers and - bake 15 minutes in slow oven. - -The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes may give -the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, but such is not -the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and left moist and -glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad droop to them that shows -there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in -cooking. - - - Parmesan Puffs - - Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal - parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a score or - more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes - till they puff up golden-brown. - - Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, second best, - from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and Italian settlers - get together on excellent Parmesan and Romano. Never buy Parmesan - already grated; it quickly loses its flavor. - - - Breakfast Puffs - -1 cup flour -1 cup milk -1/4 cup finely grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt - - Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill ramekins or - cups half full; then bake in quick oven until they are puffing - over the top and golden-brown. - - - Danish Fondue Puffs - -1 stale roll -1/2 cup boiling hot milk -Salt -Pepper -2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese -4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -4 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with cheese - and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the egg whites - and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and slowly bake - until puffed up and golden-brown. - - - New England Cheese Puffs - -1 cup sifted flour -1 teaspoon baking powder -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika -1/4 teaspoon dry mustard -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -1/2 cup milk -1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese -2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry - - Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. - Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold in the egg - whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big spoon into hot - deep fat and cook until well browned. - - Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also used, and - either of these makes a snappier puff, especially tasty when - served with soup. - - A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang. - - - Cream Cheese Puffs - -1/2 pound cream cheese -1 cup milk -4 eggs, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard - - Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from heat and add - milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well blended, then pour into - custard cups, ramekins or any other individual baking dishes that - are attractive enough to serve the puffs in. - - -RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - - -Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be collected -like snuff bottles. - -Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the individual -dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese Puff, this is -also _au gratin_ when topped with both cheese and browned bread -crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's license the name is also applied to -any kind of cake containing cheese and cooked in the identifying -one-portion ramekin. It is used chiefly in the plural, however, -together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken -Ramekins" and: - - - Cheese Ramekins I - -2 eggs -2 tablespoons flour -1/8 pound butter, melted -1/8 pound grated cheese - - Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes. - - - Cheese Ramekins II - -3 tablespoons melted butter -1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper -3/4 cup bread crumbs -1/2 cup grated cheese -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1-1/2 cups milk - - Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs into the - milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in buttered - ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. Serve piping hot, - for like Soufflés and all associated Puffs, the hot air will puff - out of them quickly; then they will sink and be inedible. - - -TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES, STILL GOING STRONG - - - Cheese Ramekins III - - Grate 1/2 pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a dozen small - paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing paper like Soufflé - cases. Put a saucepan containing 1/2 pint of water over the fire, - add 2 tablespoons of butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 - heaping tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the grated - cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, and let it - partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks from the whites - of three eggs, and beat them until the yolks foam and the whites - make a stiff froth. Put the mixture at once into the buttered - paper cases, only half-filling them (since they rise very high - while being baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a - moderate oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are - done, put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot. - -The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, -Gruyère. But because the early English also adopted Italian Parmesan, -that followed as a close second, and remains there today. - -Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this second -oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and Cheshire -"'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. Gloucester has been -called "a glorified Cheshire" and the latter has long been known as a -peculiarly rich and colorful elder brother of Cheddar, described in -Kenelme Digby's _Closet Open'd_ as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted -cheese." - - - Cheese Ramekins IV - - Scrape fine 1/4 pound of Gloucester cheese and 1/4 pound of - Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese in a mortar with the - yolks of 4 eggs, 1/4 pound of fresh butter, and the crumbs of a - French roll boiled in cream until soft. When all this is well - mixed and pounded to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. - Should the paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may - be added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served very hot. - -Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not easily come -by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the -States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of -our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or -half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about -it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three -different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect. - - - Ramequins à la Parisienne - -2 cups milk -1 cup cream -1 ounce salt butter -1 tablespoon flour -1/2 cup grated Gruyère -Coarsely ground pepper -An atom of nutmeg -A _soupçon_ of garlic -A light touch of powdered sugar -8 eggs, separated - - Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and - stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a - little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and - stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well - beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed, - fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have - a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of - paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to - allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until - golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes). - - - Le Ramequin Morézien - - This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comté is described as "a - porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast; - thickened with minced Gruyère and served very hot." - -Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs -usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In -Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les -Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyère and eggs. - - - Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins - -1/4 pound Swiss cheese -1/4 pound Roquefort cheese -1/2 pound butter -8 eggs, separated -4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed -1/2 cup cream - - The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the - rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are - folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part - full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served - instantaneously, lest they fall. - - Puff Paste Ramekins - - Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine - tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyère - and/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity - than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the - favorite for these. - - Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more - cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy - shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg - yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine. - - - Frying Pan Ramekins - - Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with - 1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff - but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of - bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 - minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander. - -There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds -that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other -that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special -cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their -creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or -Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay, -carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin. - - - Casserole Ramekin - - Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep - casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese, - with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with - 2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg! - Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eight_ - -Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc. - - -No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them -with pizza. - - - Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily - -DOUGH - -1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water -2 cups sifted flour -1 teaspoon salt -2 tablespoons olive oil - - Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, - cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice - the size. - -TOMATO PASTE - -3 tablespoons olive oil -2 large onions, sliced thin -1 can Italian tomato paste -8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small -1/2 teaspoon oregano -Salt -Crushed chili pepper -2-1/2 cups water - - In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato - paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over - and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is - done. - -CHEESE - -1/2 cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino, depending -on your pocketbook - - Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or reasonable - substitute, and grease well before spreading the well-raised - dough 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Poke your finger tips haphazardly - into the dough to make marks that will catch the sauce when you - pour it on generously. Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese - and bake in hot oven 1/2 hour, then 1/4 hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any other pie - and serve. - -The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to regular -apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular. - - - Miniature Pizzas - - Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with garlic or - onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with tomato sauce and a - slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, oregano and grated Parmesan, - and heat 8 minutes. - - - Italian-Swiss Scallopini - -1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets -1/2 cup flour -1/2 cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed -1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water -Butter -Salt -Paprika - - Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with cheese, - quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes till tender. - Dust with paprika and salt. - - - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles - -1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles -1-1/2 cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat -1/2 pound Ricotta or cottage cheese -1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar -1/4 pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino -Salt -Pepper, preferably crushed red pods -A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute - - Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly boiling - salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. Pour 1/2 cup - of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, cover with about 1/2 of - the noodles, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a - layer of Mozzarella and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this - fashion, alternating layers and seasoning each, ending with a - final spread of sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in - moderate oven, about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, - with canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste. - - - Little Hats, Cappelletti - - Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived - out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little Italy macaroni shop. - These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors - with only two cheeses. - - Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each - very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal - amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. - - With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored - fillings: - - Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and Ricotta Chicken - and Ricotta - - Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the same number - of each different kind. Pinch edges tight together to keep the - stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 minutes in chicken broth - (or salted water, if you must). - - Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and shape of - ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot plates, with - plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable substitute. If we - count this final seasoning as an ingredient, this makes three - cheeses, so that each of half a dozen taste buds can be getting - individual sensations without letting the others know what it's - doing. - - - Dauphiny Ravioli - - This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of pastry - follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat cheese and - Gruyère melted with butter and minced parsley and boiled in - chicken broth. - - - Italian Fritters - -1/4 cup flour -2 tablespoons sugar -1/4 pound fresh Ricotta -2 eggs, beaten -1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella -Rind of 1/2 lemon, grated -3 tablespoons brandy -Salt - - Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 - hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold its shape - while cooking. - - Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the bowl of a - long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in boiling hot oil. - Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at once with powdered sugar. - - To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several contrasting - cheeses in this batter. - - - Italian Asparagus and Cheese - - This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one and the - same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation layer of - grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a layer of tender - parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a layer of grated - Gruyère with a bit of butter, and another of asparagus. From here - you can go as far as you like with varied layers of melting - cheeses alternating with asparagus, until you come to the top, - where you add two more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered - Parmesan with Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent. - - - Garlic on Cheese - - For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by removing skins - and frying out the fierce pungence in smoking olive oil. They - skip in the hot pan like Mexican jumping beans. Toast one side of - a thickish slice of bread, put this side down on a grilling pan, - cover it with a slice of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyère, of - about the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into the - cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt lightly and - dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob Brown in Merle - Armitage's collection _Fit for a King_.) - -Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them toes. It was -cheese and garlic together that inspired Shakespeare to Hotspur's -declaration in _King Henry IV_: - - I had rather live - With cheese and garlic in a windmill, far, - Than feed on cates and have him talk to me - In any summer-house in Christendom. - -Some people can take a mere _soupçon_ of the stuff, while others can -down it by the soup spoon, so we feel it necessary in reprinting our -recipe to point to the warning of another early English writer: -"Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young -men." - - - Blintzes - - This snow white member of the crêpes suzette sorority is the most - popular deb in New York's fancy cheese dishes set. Almost unknown - here a decade or two ago, it has joined blinis, kreplach and - cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers. - -2 eggs -1 cup water -1 cup sifted flour -Salt -Cooking oil -1/2 pound cottage cheese -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups sour cream - - Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour and salt - to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and make little - pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. Cook the cakes over - low heat and on one side only. Slide each cake off on a white - cloth, with the cooked side down. While these are cooling make - the blintz-filling by beating together the second egg, cottage - cheese and butter. Spread each pancake thickly with the mixture - and roll or make into little pockets or envelopes with the end - tucked in to hold the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and - serve at once with sufficient sour cream to smother them. - - - Vatroushki - - Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and - blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be made was - vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief - difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of - the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese - filling, and the sour cream, 1/2 cup, is mixed into this instead - of being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix are - made by pinching the edges of the dough together. The tops are - brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk oven. - - - Cottage Cheese Pancakes - -1 cup prepared pancake -4 tablespoons top milk or light cream -1 teaspoon salt -4 eggs, well beaten -1 tablespoon sugar -2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer - - Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth. - - - Cheese Waffles - -2 cups prepared waffle flour -3 egg yolks, lightly beaten -1/4 cup melted butter -3/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar -3 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 ingredients and - fold in egg whites last. - -Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat -quickly and serve. - - - Napkin Dumpling - -1 pound cottage cheese -1/8 pound butter, softened -3 eggs, beaten -3/4 cup Farina -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cinnamon and brown sugar - - Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to - form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold water and tie the - ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling - water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown - sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and - other succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as a - meal in itself. - - -BUTTER AND CHEESE - - - Where fish is scant - And fruit of trees, - Supply that want - With butter and cheese. - - Thomas Tusser in - _The Last Remedy_ - -Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for cheese butter. -Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or less matches Turkey's -Durak, of which butter is an indispensable ingredient, and French -Cancoillote is based on sour milk simmered with butter. - -The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter -substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about -whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in -Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process -of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats, -and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter. - - -BUTTERMILK CHEESE - - -The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu -proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he -dies." - -Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy -manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, -even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato -salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment -packages. - -German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes -make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a -novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE - - -In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It -is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting -milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on -the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is -drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually -salted. - -The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes -from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute: - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 1_ - -Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will -immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little -cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for -serving. - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 2_ - -A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and -buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into -a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste -and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency, -and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange. - - -CREAM CHEESE - - -In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese: - -1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained. -2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire. -3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged -in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, as -in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese. - -American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being named from -then: region or established brands owned by Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, -Shefford, etc. - -Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to make than -cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it is not a cheese -but the dried curd of milk and is often called virginal. Fresh milk is -simply strained through muslin in a perforated box through which the -whey and extra moisture drains away for three or four days, leaving a -residue as firm as fresh butter. - -In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a popular -assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these ingredients and -names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, Pimiento, Olive and -Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, Strawberry, and Triple Decker -of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in layers. - -In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. Finally, to -come to France, la Foncée or Fromage de Pau, a cream also known around -the world as Crême d'Isigny, Double Crême, Fromage à la Crême de Gien, -Pots de Crême St. Gervais, etc. etc. - -The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with Chevretons -du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that adds _à la crême_ to -their already glorified names. - -The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more of a -dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese. - -We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. -Attempts at this have been made, both here and in England; Scottish -Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be -sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses -seem especially suitable. - - The farmer's daughter hath soft brown hair - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese) - And I met with a ballad I can't say where, - That wholly consisted of lines like these, - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese.) - -In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the ingredients -suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In England. From that year -Kettner in his _Book of the Table_ quotes this recipe: - - Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well together; - and make small coffins (that is, cases of pastry), and do it (put - it) therein; and do (put) thereto sugar and good powders. Or take - good fat cheese and eggs and make them of divers colours, green, - red or yellow, and bake them or serve them forth. - -This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of honor that -caused Kettner to wax poetic with: - - At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a countless - number of these maids--light and airy as the "airy, fairy - Lilian." What more can the finest poetry achieve in quickening - the things of earth into tokens and foretastes of heaven, with - glimpses of higher life and ethereal worlds. - - -CHEESECAKES - - -_Coronation Cheese Cake_ - - -The _Oxford Dictionary_ defines cheese cake as a "tartlet filled with -sweet curds, etc." This shows that the cheese is the main thing, and -the and-so-forth just a matter of taste. We are delighted to record -that the Lord Mayor of London picked traditional cheese tarts, the -maids of honor mentioned earlier in this section, as the Coronation -dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city -luncheon in Guildhall This is most fitting, since these tarts were -named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen -Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand -pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual cheese cake -ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of cheese, but what made the -subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, lemon, orange-flower water, or all -four? - -More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese cake, the -Greeks had a word for it--several in fact: Apician Cheese Cake, -Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. Then the Romans took it over -and we read from an epistle of the period: - - Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have been - arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese cakes - dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such as that of - Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.) - -Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was named for it -before Christ was born, at a time when cheese cakes were widely known -as "dainty food for mortal man." - -Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of which the -ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most popular in New York. -But buyers delight in every sort, including the one hundred percent -American type called cheese pies. - -Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese cakes and -cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are made piquant with -pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of ours made from -popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve: - - - Pineapple Cheese Cake - -2-1/2 pounds sieved pot cheese -1-inch piece vanilla bean -1/4 pound sweet butter, melted -1/2 small box graham crackers, crushed fine -4 eggs -2 cups sugar -1 small can crushed pineapple, drained -2 cups milk -1/3 cup flour - - In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and - pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square Pyrex pan and - put in the graham-cracker dust to make a crust. Cover this evenly - with the pineapple and pour in the cheese-custard mixture. Bake I - hour in a "quiet" oven, as the English used to say for a moderate - one, and when done set aside for 12 hours before eating. - -Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better buy your -cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones cost a dime a -bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American ones in Manhattan. -Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at about five dollars a cake. -Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries. - - - Cheese Custard - -4 eggs, slightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 cup milk -A dash of pepper or paprika -3 tablespoons melted butter -A few drops of onion juice, if desired -4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported) - - Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake - until brown. - - - Open-faced Cheese Pie - -3 eggs -1 cup sugar -2 pounds soft smearcase - - Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake without - any upper crust. - - -The Apple-pie Affinity - -Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even -as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has cheese for a sidekick, -according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and -flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was -Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are -common, such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, -pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hablé, and even a green -dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie. - -Apple pie _au gratin_, thickly grated over with Parmesan, Caciocavallo -or Sapsago, is something special when served with black coffee. Cider, -too, or applejack, is a natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple -with its cheese. - - - Apple Pie Adorned - - Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing cream - cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of double cream - beaten thick and salted a little. Put the mixture in a pastry - tube and decorate top of pie in fanciful fashion. - - - Apple Pie á la Cheese - - Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any fruit or - berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 minutes. - - - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie - - In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and sprinkle with - sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and bake golden-brown. - - - Flan au Fromage - - To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, simply mix - coarsely grated Gruyère with beaten egg, fill the tart cases and - bake. - - For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, work in - tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 parts of - flour. - - - Christmas Cake Sandwiches - - A traditional Christmas carol begs for: - - A little bit of spice cake - A little bit of cheese, - A glass of cold water, - A penny, if you please. - - For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake in slices - and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese between. - - To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, serve - apple pie with cheese and applejack. - - - Angelic Camembert - -1 ripe Camembert, imported -1 cup Anjou dry white wine -1/2 pound sweet butter, softened -2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs - - Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and when its - creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, round covered - dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no bouquet or aroma can - possibly escape, and let stand overnight. - - When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, dry the - cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an angelic paste. - Reshape in original Camembert form, dust thickly with the crumbs - and there you are. - -Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since some of -them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken straight. - -Although A. W. Fulton's observation in _For Men Only_ is going out of -date, it is none the less amusing: - - In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only met one - woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her seemed to me so - deserving of reward that I did not hesitate to acquire her hand - in marriage. - -Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like -cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between -gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from -early Italian landowners: - - _Ai contadini non far sapere - Quanta è buono it cacio con le pere_. - Don't let the peasants know - How good are cheese and pears. - -Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of Taleggio, -Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a good dinner, with a -juicy Lombardy pear or its American equivalent, a Bartlett, let us -say. - -This celestial association of cheese and pears is further accented by -the French: - - _Entre la poire et le fromage_ - Between the pear and the cheese. - -This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, in -accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke in his -_Paroemiologia_: - - After cheese comes nothing. - -But in his _Epigrams_ Ben Jonson serves them together. - - Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will be. - -That brings us back to cheese and pippins: - - I will make an end of my dinner; there's - pippins and cheese to come. - - Shakespeare's _Merry Wives of Windsor_ - -When should the cheese be served? In England it is served before or -after the fruit, with or without the port. - -Following _The Book of Keruynge_ in modern spelling we note when it -was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, -strawberries, whortleberries (American huckleberries) and hard -cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like -Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced -banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese dessert tray to match -the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, -are figs, both fresh and preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, -kumquats, avocados, fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, -served in the scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or -pear and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. Pots -of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being -the best. - - - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola - -1/2 pound mellow Roquefort -1/4 pound sweet butter, softened -A dash cayenne -3/4 cup champagne - - With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, - moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or - less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the - demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt - gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just - plain bread. - -After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are: - -FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, -Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy) - -FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar - -FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly - -FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese - -FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval - -FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyère - -FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse - -FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost - -FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda - -FROM ENGLAND: Stilton - -FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Nine_ - -Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - - -He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet, -saluted it two centuries ago with: - - Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow. - -On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan, -"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W. -Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a -century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_ -wrote: - - I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me - back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very - kind of him. - -The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and, -for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave -us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with -a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In -America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although -Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or -cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that. - - - Potatoes au Gratin - -2 cups diced cooked potatoes -2 tablespoons grated onion -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup milk -1 egg -Salt -Pepper -More grated cheese for covering - - In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle - with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of - cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk, - egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top - everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically - American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2 - hour. - - - Eggs au Gratin - - Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any - desired number of eggs broken into a buttered baking dish. Begin - by using half of the sauce and sprinkling on a lot of grated - cheese. After the eggs are in, pour on the rest of the sauce, - cover it with grated cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of - butter, and cook until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes). - - - Tomatoes au Gratin - - Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and - sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, season - with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of - tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating - with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, - cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - - Onion Soup au Gratin - -4 or 5 onions, sliced -4 or 5 tablespoons butter -1 quart stock or canned consommé -1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes -Rounds of toasted French bread -1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese - - Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until light golden, - and pour the stock over. When heated put in a larger casserole, - add the bouillon, season to taste and heat to boiling point. Let - simmer 15 minutes and serve in deep well-heated soup plates, the - bottoms covered with rounds of toasted French bread which have - been heaped with freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the - broiler. More cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as - desired. - -At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of champagne -are often added to the bouillon. - -In the famed onion soup _au gratin_ at Les Halles in Paris, grated -Gruyère is used in place of Parmesan. They are interchangeable in this -recipe. - - -AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - - In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is made by - heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and adding finely - grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French bread toasted and - topped with more cheese and broiled golden makes the best base to - pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above. - - The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese - soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, - pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg. - - - Chicken Cheese Soup - - Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken bouillon - cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed cream of - chicken soup. Stir in 1/4 cup grated American Cheddar cheese and - season with salt, pepper, and plenty of paprika until cheese - melts. - - Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese to lima - bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or plain cheese soup - with rice. - -Imported French _marmites_ are _de rigueur_ for a real onion soup _au -gratin_, and an imported Parmesan grinder might be used for freshly -ground cheese. In preparing, it is well to remember that they are -basically only melted cheese, melted from the top down. - - -CHEESE SALADS - - When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is resting and in no hurry. - He eats the salad to prepare himself for the cheese. - - Henri Charpentier, _Life & la Henri_, - - - Green Cheese Salad Julienne - - Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of crisp - lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone cheese cut in - thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 hours in French - dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue cheese and toss - everything thoroughly, with plenty of French dressing. - - - American Cheese Salad - - Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with shredded - American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in French dressing. - - - Cheese and Nut Salad - - Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats and enough - mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little balls and serve - with fruit salads, dusting lightly with finely grated Sapsago. - - - Brie or Camembert Salad - - Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie or - Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce drenched with - French dressing and scatter shredded almonds over. (Cream cheese - will do in a pinch. If the Camembert isn't creamy enough, mash it - with some sweet cream.) - - - Three-in-One Mold - -3/4 cup cream cheese -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -1/2 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled -2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into -1/2 cup boiling water -Juice of 1 lemon -Salt -Pepper -2 cups cream, beaten stiff -1/2 cup minced chives - - Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with lemon, salt - and pepper and stir into cheese with the whipped cream. Add - chives last Put in ring mold or any mold you fancy, chill well - and slice at table to serve on lettuce with a little mayonnaise, - or plain. - - - Swiss Cheese Salad - - Dice 1/2 pound of cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Slice one onion - very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash with German mustard, - olive oil, wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and - grind in plenty of black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a - wooden spoon so you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is - drenched with the dressing. - - - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad - -Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished specially -by males on the morning after. We quote the original recipe brought -over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the writers' and artists' -colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her brother Emil's White House -Inn: - - First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported Emmentaler into - half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported French olive oil, German - mustard and Swiss white wine vinegar with salt and freshly ground - pepper in a deep soup plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper - sauce scattered in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes - with a light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising. - - The salad was ready to eat only when each and every tiny, shiny - cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been washed, oiled and - polished with the soothing mixture. - - "Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine Breakfast - Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It is the best cure - in the world for the worst hangover." - - - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad - - Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. Sprinkle with - lemon juice and spread with creamy Gorgonzola. Sluice with French - dressing made with lemon juice in place of vinegar, to help bring - out the natural banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola. - - - Cheese and Pea Salad - - Cube 1/2 pound of American Cheddar and mix with a can of peas, 1 - cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/2 cup of sour cream, - and 2 tablespoons each of minced pimientos and sweet pickles. - Serve in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped - radishes. - - - Apple and Cheese Salad - -1/2 cup cream cheese -1 cup chopped pecans -Salt and pepper -Apples, sliced 1/2-inch thick -Lettuce leaves -Creamy salad dressing - - Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple slices - standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy salad - dressing. - - - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing - - No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American favorite of - Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with French - dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar and kept in the - refrigerator to shake up on occasion and toss over lettuce or - other salads. - -Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, complete -with the picture of the sheep in red, and _garanti véritable_, the -dressing is often ruined by bad vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all -things). When bottled to sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous -spice, oils and mustard flour are used where nothing more is necessary -than the manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good -vinegar--white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent amateurs must have -their splash of Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice with salt and -pepper. This Roquefort dressing is good on all green salads, but on -endive it's something special. - - - SAUCE MORNAY - -Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary -achievement in cheese." - - Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a white sauce - (the French Sauce Béchamel) and add grated Parmesan to your - liking, stirring it in until melted and the sauce is creamy. This - can be snapped up with cayenne or minced parsley, and when used - with fish a little of the cooking broth is added. - - - PLAIN CHEESE SAUCE - -1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white sauce - - This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or hard-cooked - eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 parts of cheese to 4 - of white sauce, it is delicious on boiled cauliflower, baked - potatoes, macaroni and crackers soaked in milk. - - The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter with the - flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg yolk in with - the cheese. - -From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes: - -_Thin_: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty milk toast, -sometimes spiced with curry. - -_Medium_: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in milk. - -_Thick_: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured generously over -bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the -sauce sink in. - - - PARSLEYED CHEESE SAUCE - - This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven the - cabbage family--hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels - sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled over. - - -CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - - -Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a bounteous -cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not indispensable, -recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or overlooked or crowded -out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, -Soufflés, etc. - - -_Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks_ - -Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by pressing -through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with any seasoning or -relish. - - SUGGESTIONS: - - Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or all three, - with or without a touch of Worcestershire. - - Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce. - - Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, minced - capers, pickles, or minced ham. - - Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for your - favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. This last - is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese creamed with - sweet butter. - - All canapé butters are ideally suited to stuffing stalks. - Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed. - - A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the leafy tops - off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or anything similarly - suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but keep them in order, to - reassemble in the head after each is stuffed with a different - mixture, using any of the above, or a tangy mix of your own - concoction. - - After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, - press them together in the form of the original head, tie tight, - and chill. When ready, slice in rolls about 8-inch thick and - arrange as a salad on a bed of water cress or lettuce, moistened - with French dressing. - - - Cold Dunking - - Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be had by - moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or lemon in a - dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently liquefied, it is - liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, onions, pimiento - and/or other relish. Then a couple of tins of anchovies are - macerated and stirred in, oil and all. - - - Cheese Charlotte - - Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted slices of - bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet butter with 2 - eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of grated cheese. Bake - until golden brown in slow oven. - - - Straws - - Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, fold and - roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese each time. Chill - dough in refrigerator and cut in straw-size strips. Stiffly salt - a beaten egg yolk and glaze with that to give a salty taste. Bake - for several minutes until crisp. - - - Supa Shetgia[B] - -[Footnote B: (from _Cheese Cookery_, by Helmut Ripperger)] - - _This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known - in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one - has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how - perfectly it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, - is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned - tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased_. - - Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup - plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss - cheese. Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over - it some boiling milk. Cover the plate and let it stand for - several minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Serve - topped with browned, hot butter. Use whole nutmeg and grate it - freshly. - - -WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - - -Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from -soups to spaghetti--and indeed any vegetable--that a shaker of grated -Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, -or is served freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup -might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great -minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient -along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, -olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth. - -Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the -Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's served up as a -separate tidbit with the meats. - -Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as -the French are wont to use more wine in cooking. - - - Pfeffernüsse and Caraway - -The gingery little "pepper nuts," _pfeffernüsse_, imported from -Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best -accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish -of caraway. - - - Diablotins - -Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated -cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution. - - -CHEESE OMELETS - - - Cheddar Omelet - - Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun - to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be - called a Wild Omelet. - Cook as usual. Fold and serve. - - - Parmesan Omelet (mild) - - Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in - place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar. - - - Parmesan Omelet (full flavored) - - As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows: - Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the - beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the - omelet begins to set. - - - A Meal-in-One Omelet - - Fry 1/2 dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup - of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to equal crispness. - Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1-1/2 - tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 - tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste. - - - Tomato and - - Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh tomato and - dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put under broiler - until cheese melts to a golden brown. - - - Omelet with Cheese Sauce - - Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when finished, - cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white sauce in which 1/4 - pound of shredded cheese has been melted, and mixed well with 1/2 - cup cooked, diced celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced. - -The French use grated Gruyère for this with all sorts of sauces, such -as the _Savoyar de Savoie_, with potatoes, chervil, tarragon and -cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning -with a salamander. - - - Spanish Flan--Quesillo - -FOR THE CARAMEL: -1/2 cup sugar -4 tablespoons water - -FOR THE FLAN: -4 eggs, beaten separately -2 cups hot milk -1/2 cup sugar -Salt - - Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour it into - a baking mold. - - Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven about - 3/4 hour. - - - Italian Fritto Misto - - The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with - whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat - are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and - giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato, - and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk - of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture. - - - Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese) - - Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very - thin and cut in 2-inch squares. - - Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted - butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless - currents. - - Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to - make little pockets. - - Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil - steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst - open. - - Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a - sprinkling of bread crumbs. - - This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes. - - - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes - - Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some - old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked - bacon. - - -If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a - - Sautéed Swiss Sandwich - - Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly - buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it - with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry - on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved - on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and - a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this - until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter - made strong men cry for it. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Ten_ - -Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - - -In America cheese got its start in country stores in our -cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up -the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap -cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the -flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too -palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo -the cat off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be -beat today. - -At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was -our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont -Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. -When Orton heard we were writing this book, he sent samples from the -store his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. Together -with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese and the Sage came a -handy handmade Cracker Basket, all wicker, ten crackers long and just -one double cracker wide. A snug little casket for those puffy, -old-time, two-in-one soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the -taste of the accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's -made to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on one -half and another on t'other, or sandwich them between. - -Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the corner -saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never faltered till -Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was soon pepped up as -saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, bowls of pickles, -peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with plenty of mustard, -pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese -forever together, as in the free-lunch ditty of that great day: - - I am an Irish hunter; - I am, I ain't. - I do not hunt for deer - But beer. - Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag. - - I do not hunt for fleas - But cheese. - Oh, Adolph, bring the free lunch. - -It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to coast. In -every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger--manly -cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden -yellow, tangy mellow, always cut in cubes. Cheese takes the cube form -as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon. - -On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely cubes, free -Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to lead the tired -businessman in by the nose; or a smear of Canadian Snappy out of a -pure white porcelain pot in the classy places, on a Bent's water -biscuit. - - -SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - -Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of which there -is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us consume most of our -country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar and Swiss. To attempt to -classify and describe all of these would be impossible, so we will -content ourselves by picking a few of the cold and hot, the plain and -the fancy, the familiar and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum -up the situation. - - -A Alpine Club Sandwich - - Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick slice of - imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, and the usual - club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of chicken or turkey, - tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf. - - -B Boston Beany, Open-face - - Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it generously - with hot baked beans and a thick layer of shredded Cheddar. Top - with bacon and put under a slow broiler until cheese melts and - the bacon crisps. - - -C Cheeseburgers - - Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, - using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a nice slice - of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the - hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and - begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, - toasted sandwich buns. - - -D Deviled Rye - - Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot oven. Cool - until crisp again. Then spread thickly with cream cheese, - bedeviled with catsup, paprika or pimiento. - - -E Egg, Open-faced - - Sauté minced small onion and small green pepper in 2 tablespoons - of butter and make a sauce by cooking with a cup of canned - tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. Fry 4 eggs and put one - in the center of each of 4 pieces of hot toast spread with the - red sauce. Sprinkle each generously with grated Cheddar, broil - until melted and serve with crisp bacon. - - -F French-fried Swiss - - Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported Gruyère, - soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry slowly till cheese melts - and the sandwich is nicely browned. This is a specialty of - Franche-Comté. - - -G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar - - Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them on both - sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked chicken, 1/2 - slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a sprinkling of minced ham. - Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut in half and dip thoroughly in a - mixture of egg and milk. Grill golden on both sides and serve - with lengthwise slices of dill pickle. - - -H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced - - Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a layer of - mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then one of Swiss - cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped with mustard and a - sowing of capers. - - -I International Sandwich - - Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, cover soft, - untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread lightly with mustard, - top that with a wheel of Bermuda onion and 1 or 2 slices of - Italian-type tomato. Season with cayenne and salt, dot with - butter, cover with Brazil nuts and brown under the broiler. - - -J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises - - Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture of onion - browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with grated Gruyère. - Simmer until cheese melts, and serve. - - -K Kümmelkäse - - If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish slab of - Milwaukee Kümmelkäse, which translates caraway cheese. For good - measure sprinkle caraway seeds on top, or serve them in a saucer - on the side. Then dash on a splash of kümmel, the caraway liqueur - that's best when imported. - - -L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup - - Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French dressing for - 1/2 hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft - Limburger, top with onion and you will have something - super-duper--if you like Limburger. - - When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has - quite another character and flavor, so true Limburger addicts - make one of each and take alternate bites for the thrill of - contrast. - - -M Meringue, Open-faced (from the Browns' _10,000 Snacks_) - - Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 slice of - bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter on untoasted - side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over butter, and the yolk - of an egg in the center. Beat egg white stiff with a few grains - of salt and pile lightly on top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons - of grated cheese over that and bake in moderate oven until the - egg white is firm and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown. - - -N Neufchâtel and Honey - - We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with thin, - decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, then with - Neufchâtel topped with some fine honey--Mount Hymettus, if - possible. - - Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the Neufchâtel, but - nothing will take the place of the honey to make this heavenly - sandwich that must have been the original ambrosia. - - -O Oskar's Ham-Cam - - Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 - superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, - perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, - open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost - any one-way slice you desire. He uses as many contrasting kinds - of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh - and whipped. The Ham-Cam base involves "a juicy, tender slice of - freshly boiled, mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on - the ham as thick as velvet. - - The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver - paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and - _rémoulade_," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," - "a slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira jelly, - with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to - Camembert on ham. - - -P Pickled Camembert - - Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe - imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't summer). Make a - mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and - spread it on. Top this with a thin slice of white bread for - pleasing contrast with the black. - - -Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich - - On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, crusty - white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese - made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." This last translates - back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the - world--on a par with fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy - cheese lightly with imported capers, and you'll say it's - scrumptious. - - -R Roquefort Nut - - Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine - Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian - paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes. Finish it off - with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof. - - -S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich - - Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or - a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with - sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese. - - Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New - York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, - is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king - of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as - above. - - Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with - cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, - while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of - this world. We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong - China tea. - - -T Tangy Sandwich - - On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay thinly - sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef with - horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old chopped - chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on every cheese - sandwich, try different kinds for a change: sharp English freshly - mixed by your own hand out of the tin of powder, or Dijon for a - French touch. - - -U Unusual Sandwich--of Flowers, Hay and Clover - - On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a layer of - equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with petals of rose, - marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with French Fromage de foin. - This French hay cheese gets its name from being ripened on hay - and holds its new-mown scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers - (the smaller they are, the better), with a little of the luscious - juice, and dust lightly with Sapsago. - - -V Vegetarian Sandwich - - Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store - cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with chopped - chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms - that suits your fancy. - - -W Witch's Sandwich - - Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin slice of - imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop or two of - tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled ham and press it - together with the cheese between the two bread slices, put in a - hot oven and serve piping hot with a handful of - "moonstones"--those outsize pearl onions. - - -X Xochomilco Sandwich - - In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a drop to be - had that's native to the festive, floating gardens near Mexico - City. For there, instead of the cow, a sort of century plant - gives milky white _pulque_, the fermented juice of this - cactuslike desert plant. With this goes a vegetable cheese curded - by its own vegetable rennet. It's called tuna cheese, made from - the milky juice of the prickly pear that grows on yet another - cactuslike plant of the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes - teams up in arid lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced - into a tortilla sandwich. The milky _pulque_ of Xochomilco goes - as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese sandwich. - - - Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich - - Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with cream - cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt and a touch - of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole wheat bread. - - -Z Zebra - - Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own - Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those oft-photoed skins - in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various - white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern. - -For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese -sandwiches. - - - Toasted Cheese Sandwich - - Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and sandwich - between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp cheese, egg - yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with stiffly beaten - egg white folded in last to make a light filling. Fry the - buttered sandwich in more butter until well melted and nicely - gilded. - -This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, -who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the -form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh -Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to -further sandwich the two. - -Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to -this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the -equally Dutch Pennsylvanians. - -England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with -such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. -Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's -quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew. - - - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich - -1 pound grated Cheddar -1 egg, well beaten -1/2 cup milk -1 tablespoon butter - - Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eleven_ - -"Fit for Drink" - - - A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for - drink. - - -Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according -to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk -cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and -no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine -to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and -body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. -Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory. - -While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, -Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of -gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on -the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon -and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But -professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They -may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of -Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest it give the wine a -spurious nobility. - -And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest affinity for it. -Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie -and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rosé_. Heavenly -marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both -Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, -Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be -made for each other, as do Château Margaux and Camembert. - -A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in -the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valençay, -Vendôme and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates -with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most -commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French -cheeses. - -Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being -Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French -Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine from just across the -border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben -(grape cheese), named from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged. - -One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited -to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape -and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas -(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly -suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian -Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The -affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven. - -Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with -wines, according to these matches registered by André Simon in _The -Art of Good Living:_ - -Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port -White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry -Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port -Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - -To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of -Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer. - -The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and -liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent -imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit -Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks. - -While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, -we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we -can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig -and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or -Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin -Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately. - -Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kümmel -with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of -caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper -berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage -Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. -One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee -laced with gin. - -French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not only coffee and -rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then -there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with -brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy. - -In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In -Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and -the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional -Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and -hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge -Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own -Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque. - -The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. -Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go -well together. - -Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some -cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than -vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Twelve_ - -Lazy Lou - - -Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his -heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere -in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. -Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped -back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To -cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and -its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there -came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread." - -The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are -handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people -even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of -their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them. - -My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in -1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with -profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma -Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, -keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and -naturalized Limburgers. - -At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep -their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One -booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation: - - CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM - WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD - -These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any -amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with -German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or -not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? -How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? -Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought. - -Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese -board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the -teams against each other. - - The All-American Champs - -NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ -VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER - CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE - MINNESOTA BLUE - BRICK - TILLAMOOK - - VS. - - The European Giants - -PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN -OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER -YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ - ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE -GERMAN MÜNSTER GREEK FETA - HABLÉ - -The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and -distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian -board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine -with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates -representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland. - -For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the -banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal -Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all -three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky -slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, -about which more later. - -We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant -roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou -will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English -have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, -herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make -do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With -our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily -dispense with the mere dinner itself. - -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. - -True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American -products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are -available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party -will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun. - -Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One -may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; -another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from -Colombia's mountain city, Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic -leaves of _Frailejón Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet -English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with -marigolds; another a tube of South American Kräuterkäse. - -Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of -those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you -want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille -condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty -shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of -different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, -in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green -Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored." - -And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling -cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap -Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are -handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper -pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, -both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of -curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint -leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh -tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black -olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats. - -Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my -wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes -nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting -party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to -twirl the load. - -The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and -the lower one carried the rest, as follows: - - ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR - (rum flavored) - - FRENCH MÜNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH - CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT - - SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA - - ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN - PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST - - HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER - -The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and -Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, -scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly -Britishers fingers were best. - -The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our -best domestic "bar cheese" of old. - -The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented -flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's -Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was -strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price. - -Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy -English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in -waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But -there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to -much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally. - -The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than -most German Münster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by -the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly -matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with -many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones -sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted -the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A -plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, -stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American -pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and -tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they -are not Roquefort. - -The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it has been made in the -Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive -of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted -fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own -seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is -mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like -sage-green color. - -Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately rich, and nutty -enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it -at the source. - -As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes -it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring -flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own -and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another -American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a -pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and -with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet. - -The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as -fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so -much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the -crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise. - -After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on -its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously -ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about -them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load. - -The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked -ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of -its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for -it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a -ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so -we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer -some other day, when it might be more appetizing. - -We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost -that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the -same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our -piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, -undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned -out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a -Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert -about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail -on his little finger. - -"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than -a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you -take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure -for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in -Worcestershire." - -That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, -_instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with -anything less than a blowtorch. - -To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian -Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing -it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with -sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. -We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in -the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and -chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then -spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. -_That's_ Liptauer Garniert. - - - - -[Illustration: No. 4 Cheese Inc.] - -_Appendix_ - -The A-B-Z of Cheese - -_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any -further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese -is made of cow's milk._ - - -A - -Aberdeen -_Scotland_ - -Soft; creamy mellow. - -Abertam -_Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_) - -Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own. - -Absinthe _see_ Petafina. - -Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel. - -Aettekees -_Belgium_ - -November to May--winter-made and eaten. - -Affiné, Carré _see_ Ancien Impérial. - -Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella. - -After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8. - -Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated. - -Aiguilles, Fromage d' -_Alpine France_ - -Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the -district where it is made. - -Aizy, Cendrée d' _see_ Cendrée. - -Ajacilo, Ajaccio -_Corsica_ - -Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French -Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. - -à la Crème _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons. - -à la Main _see_ Vacherin. - -à la Pie _see_ Fromage. - -à la Rachette _see_ Bagnes. - -Albini -_Northern Italy_ - -Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, -pleasant-tasting table cheese. - -Albula -_Switzerland_ - -Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk -that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula -whose proud name it bears. - -Alderney -_Channel Islands_ - -The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special -breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate -it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny. - -Alemtejo -_Portugal_ - -Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way -that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; -sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing -respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller -sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The -method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and -unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made -from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two -other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da -Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. -In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with -_chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so -much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks -for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference -in sizes. - -Alfalfa _see_ Sage. - -Alise Saint-Reine -_France_ - -Soft; summer-made. - -Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, or Allgäuer Emmentaler -_Bavaria_ - -Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu names a mountain -of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are -two principal kinds, vintage Allgäuer Bergkäse and soft Allgäuer -Rahmkäse, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through -rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme -that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it -is no wonder that Allgäuer Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. -Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgäu -were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home -caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early -1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went -up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only -when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached their -prime. - -Allgäuer Rahmkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. -This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian -mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with -the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the -stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the old-time Slipcote of England. -Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. -Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, -Rahmkäse can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses -in Germany. - -Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe. - -Al Pepe -_Italy_ - -Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_). - -Alpes -_France_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. - -Alpestra -_Austria_ - -A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it -was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy -spells hers Alpestro. - -Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon -_France_ - -Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briançon and Gap. - -Alpestro -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted. - -Alpin or Clérimbert -_Alpine France_ - -The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. The curd is -dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half -inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day -only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. - -Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in -diameter, weight two pounds. - -Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese -_Germany_ - -Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests. - -Altsohl _see_ Brinza. - -Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert -_Limagne, Auvergne, France_ - -A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the -Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe. - -American, American Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen -fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and -Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, -with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, -Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about -sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same -way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are -ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, -richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the -passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4. - -Americano Romano -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; brittle; sharp. - -Amou -_Béarn, France_ - -Winter cheese, October to May. - -Anatolian -_Turkey_ - -Hard; sharp. - -Anchovy Links -_U.S.A._ - -American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any -fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy -links. - -Ancien Impérial -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchâtel and made -in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, -one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when -ripe. It is also called Carré and has separate names for the new and -the old: (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré Affiné, when it -has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same -time as Neufchâtel. - -Ancona _see_ Pecorino. - -Andean -_Venezuela_ - -A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is formed into rough -cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejón -Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic -flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.) - -Andechs -_Bavaria_ - -A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on -Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread -and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes. - -Antwerp -_Belgium_ - -Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin. - -Appenzeller -_Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_ - -Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a -pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two -qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a -year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white -wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with -lees of wine. - -Appetitost -_Denmark_ - -Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up -to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in -which it is made. - -Appetost -_Denmark_ - -Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for -snap. Imitated in U.S.A. - -Apple -_U.S.A._ - -A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked -apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone -and Baby Gouda, no doubt. - -Arber -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains -between Bohemia and Silesia. - -Argentine -_Argentina_ - -Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical -Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and -fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding. - -Armavir -_Western Caucasus_ - -Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour -buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in -a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese. - -Arnauten _see_ Travnik. - -Arovature -_Italy_ - -Water-buffalo milk. - -Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs. - -Arrigny -_Champagne, France_ - -Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the -same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are -specially well suited to one another. - -Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte. - -Artificial Dessert Cheese - -In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made -by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with -powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred -in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a -curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six -to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored -with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an -hour or two and finally served up with more cream. - -Asadero, or Oaxaca -_Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_ - -White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or -kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight -Asadero means "suitable for roasting." - -Asco -_Corsica, France_ - -Made only in the winter season, October to May. - -Asiago I, II and III -_Vicenza, Italy_ - -Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves -weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but -have a taste all their own. - -I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating. - -II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine -months old. - -III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's -fine for grating. - - -Asin, or Water cheese -_Northern Italy_ - -Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring -and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with -honey and fruit. - -Au Cumin -_see_ Münster. - -Au Fenouil -_see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Au Foin and de Foin - -A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage -de Foin. - -Augelot -_Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France_ - -Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type. - -d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne. - -Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney. - -Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Aurore and Triple Aurore -_Normandy, France_ - -Made and eaten all year. - -Australian and New Zealand -_Australia and New Zealand_ - -Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some -Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly processed. - -Autun -_Nivernais, France_ - -Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it -and this is of special interest in a province where the chief -competitors are made of goat's milk. - -Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu. - -Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses. - -Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette. - -Aydes, les -_Orléanais, France_ - -Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June. - -Azeitão, Queijo do -_Portugal_ - -Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ão_ implies. -There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of -rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. - -Azeitoso -_Portugal_ - -Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named. - -Azuldoch Mountain -_Turkey_ - -Mild and mellow mountain product. - - -B - -Backsteiner -_Bavaria_ - -Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the -shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. -Brick. - -Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette -_Switzerland_ - -Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for -"scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese -and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted -in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced -Welsh Rabbit sandwich. - -Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano -_Italy_ - -Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. - -Bakers' cheese - -Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. -Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, -but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. - -Ball -_U.S.A._ - -Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original -Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. - -Ballakäse or Womelsdorf - -Similar to Ball. - -Balls, Dutch Red - -English name for Edam. - -Banbury -_England_ - -Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, -famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury -cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early -nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today. - -Banick -_Armenia_ - -White and sweet. - -Banjaluka -_Bosnia_ - -Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery. - -Banon, or les Petits Banons -_Provence, France,_ - -Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and -exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly -summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and -festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. - -Bar cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the -U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of -America's cheese industry. - -Barbacena -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading -cheese state of Brazil. - -Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in -diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, -near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated -by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with -a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off -in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened -three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when -made in summer they are often sold fresh. - -Barboux -_France_ - -Soft. - -Baronet -_U.S.A._ - -A natural product, mild and mellow. - -Barron -_France_ - -Soft. - -Bassillac _see_ Bleu. - -Bath -_England_ - -Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic -resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered -with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most -delicate of English-speaking cheeses. - -Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and -western Austria_ - -An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is -only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty -to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower -temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months ---and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though -sharp, full nutty flavor. - -Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) -_Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_ - -Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in -about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is bigger. In two forms, one -cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, -whether made with or without caraway. - -Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkäse. - -Bavarian Cream -_German_ - -Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. -Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. - -Bavarois à la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois. - -Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne. - -Bayrischer Bierkäse -_Bavaria_ - -Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, -but to dunk in it. - -Beads of cheese -_Tibet_ - -Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a -necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. -_Also see_ Money Made of Cheese. - -Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and -also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk -of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. - -Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons. - -Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont -_Savoy, France_ - -A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret -triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June. - -Beaupré de Roybon -_Dauphiné, France_ - -A winter specialty made from November to April. - -Beckenried -_Switzerland_ - -A good mountain cheese from goat milk. - -Beer cheese -_U.S.A._ - -While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a -translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a type of strong -Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is -considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in -Germany Bierkäse is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of -beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather -than eaten. - -Beer-Regis -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar -named after its hometown in Dorsetshire. - -Beist-Cheese -_Scotland_ - -A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled -or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling -new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill) - -Belarno -_Italy_ - -Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese. - -Belgian Cooked -_Belgium_ - -The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed -and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is -allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to -fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the -fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is -heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds -and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs -about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from -other forms of cooked cheese. - -Beli Sir _see_ Domaci. - -Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head -_Switzerland_ - -Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet -in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not -so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, -the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can -stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are -ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to -ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, -the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is -kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy -spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more -white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest -monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the -jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively -and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. - -Bel Paese -_Italy_ - -_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, -and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The -American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. - -Bel Paesino -_U.S.A._ - -A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive -in every other way. - -Bergkäse _see_ Allgäuer. - -Bergquara -_Sweden_ - -Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets -sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to -forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century. - -Berkeley -_England_ - -Named after its home town in Gloucester, England. - -Berliner Kuhkäse -_Berlin, Germany_ - -Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical -German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's -about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkäse, without caraway. - -Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde -_Italy_ - -Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for -flavor. Cured for two months. - -Berques -_France_ - -Made of skim milk. - -Berry Rennet _see_ Withania. - -Bessay, le -_Bourbonnais, France_ - -Soft, mild, and creamy. - -Bexhill -_England_ - -Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. - -Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually -dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, -notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; -sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as -Milwaukee and Hoboken. - -Bifrost -_Norway_ - -Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce -package. - -Binn -_Wallis, Switzerland_ - -Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. - -Bitto -_Northern Italy_ - -Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses -in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When -eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has -small eyes. - -Blanc à la crème _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II. - -Bleu -_France_ - -Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting. - -Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu -_Auvergne, France_ - -Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and -Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same -province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille. - -Bleu de Bassillac -_Limousin, France_ - -Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May. - -Bleu de Laqueuille -_France_ - -Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its -originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century -ago, in 1854. - -Bleu de Limousin, Fromage -_Lower Limousin_ - -Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin. - -Bleu de Salers -_France_ - -A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for -its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only -in the winter months, from November to May. - -Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Blind - -The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong -to, such as blind Swiss. - -Block Edam -_U.S.A._ - -U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of -Edam. - -Block, Smoked -_Austria_ - -The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum. - -Bloder, or Schlicker Milch -_Switzerland_ - -Sour-milker. - -Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton. - -Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue. - -Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset. - -Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel. - -Blue, and Blue with Port Links -_U.S.A._ - -One of the modern American process sausages. - -Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota. - -Blue Moon -_U.S.A._ - -A process product. - -Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for -private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An -epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in -a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal -Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from -which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a -different action. - -Bocconi Geganti -_Italy_ - -Sharp and smoky specialty. - -Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone. - -Boîte _see_ Fromage de Boîte. - -Bombay -_India_ - -Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of -a cracker. - -Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchâtel. - -Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes -_Normandy, France_ - -Nicknamed _Bonde à tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a -barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. -Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. - -Bondon de Rouen -_France_ - -A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to -last up to ten days. - -Bondost -_Sweden_ - -When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost -in Norway. - -Bond Ost -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin. - -Bon Larron -_France_ - -Romantically named "the penitent thief." - -Borden's -_U.S.A._ - -A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the -leader. - -Borelli -_Italy_ - -A small water-buffalo cheese. - -Bossons Maceres -_Provence, France_ - -A winter product, December, January, February and March only. - -Boudanne -_France_ - -Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months. - -Boudes, Boudon -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchâtel family. - -Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe. - -Bouillé, la -_Normandy France_ - -One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In -season October to May. - -Boule de Lille -_France_ - -Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it. - -Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai -_Flanders, France_ - -Made from November to May, eaten all year. - -Bourgain -_France_ - -Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable and consumed -locally. - -Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes. - -Box -_Württemberg, Germany_ - -Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft: - -I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it -is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with -partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a -handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three -months and shipped in wooden boxes. - -II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess -and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant. - -Bra No. I -_Piedmont, Italy_ - -Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight -twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander -with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. - -Bra No. II -_Turin and Cuneo, Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine. - -Brand or Brandkäse -_Germany_ - -Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd -is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a -day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. -After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently -moistened with beer while curing. - -Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream. - -Branja de Brailia -_Rumania_ - -Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine. - -Branja de Cosulet -_Rumania_ - -Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A -creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism -of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a -gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good -English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor -which must be unique among cheeses. - -Bratkäse -_Switzerland_ - -Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on -toast. - -Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other names -_Germany_ - -Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. -Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in -Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. - -Breakstone -_U.S.A._ - -Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and -manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream -cheese is an American product to be proud of. - -Brésegaut -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, white. - -Breslau -_Germany_ - -A proud Prussian dessert cheese. - -Bressans _see_ les Petits. - -Bresse -_France_ - -Lightly cooked. - -Bretagne _see_ Montauban. - -Brevine -_Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Briançon _see_ Alpin. - -Brick _see_ Chapter 4. - -Brickbat -_Wiltshire, England_ - -A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. -Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before -"it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton. - -Bricotta -_Corsica_ - -Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into -small luscious cakes. - -Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendré and Coulommiers. - -Brie Façon -_France_ - -The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. -Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie -_véritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly -called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France. - -_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France. - -Brie de Meaux -_France_ - -This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation -for high quality. It is made only from November to May. - -Brie de Melun -_France_ - -This Brie _véritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from -November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always -prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring -Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that -ripens until May. - -Brillat-Savarin -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du -Goût_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject -beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is -named in his everlasting praise. - -Brina Dubreala -_Rumania_ - -Semisoft, sheep, done in brine. - -Brindza -_U.S.A._ - -Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as -popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and -Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise -"Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original -Brinza. - -Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, -Brina Dubreala, Briney. - -Briney, or Brined -_Syria_ - -Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. -Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type. - -Brinza, or Brinsen -_Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_ - -Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, -Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, -sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub -with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia. - -Brioler _see_ Westphalia. - -Briquebec _see_ Providence - -Briqueton -_England_ - -The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few -cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth -century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at -the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche. - -Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, -and U.S. Hopi. - -Brizecon -_Savoy, France_ - -Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province. - -Broccio, or le Brocconis -_Corsica, France_ - -Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to -Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, -where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and -half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and -eaten all year. - -Broodkaas -_Holland_ - -Hard, flat, nutty. - -Brousses de la Vézubie, les -_Nice, France_ - -Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar -or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vézubie. - -Brussels or Bruxelles -_Belgium_ - -Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal -districts. - -Budapest -_Hungary_ - -Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and -abroad in Vienna. - -Buderich -_Germany_ - -A specialty in Dusseldorf. - -Bulle -_Switzerland_ - -A Swiss-Gruyère. - -Bundost -_Sweden_ - -Semihard; mellow; tangy. - -Burgundy -_France_ - -Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully -together. - -Bushman -_Australia_ - -Semihard; yellow; tangy. - -Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8. - -"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar. - -Buttermilk -_U.S. & Europe_ - -Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain. - - -C - -Cabeçou, le -_Auvergne, France_ - -Small; goat; from Maurs. - -Cabrillon -_Auvergne, France_ - -So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister nannies under -the rind. - -Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux - -_Provence Mountains, France_ - -Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry -seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to -November. - -Caciocavallo -_Italy_ - -"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated -all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Caciocavallo Siciliano -_Sicily, also in U.S.A._ - -Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but -sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between -17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. - -Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta -_Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten -fresh. - -Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino. - -Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari. - -Caerphilly -_Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_ - -Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold -"green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when -weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities -it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it -specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and -does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. - -Caillebottes (Curds) -_France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendée_ - -Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with -chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and -served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. -A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchée (_see_). Other cheeses -are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon -juice, especially in Portugal. - -Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots. - -Caille de Habas -_Gascony, France_ - -Clabbered or clotted sheep milk. - -Cajassou -_Périgord, France_ - -A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac. - -Calabrian -_Italy_ - -The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo. - -Calcagno -_Sicily_ - -Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating. - -Caledonian Cream -_Scotland_ - -More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner -Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange -marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half -an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good -ice-pudding." - -Calvados -_France_ - -Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same -province. - -Calvenzano -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. - -Cambrai _see_ Boulette. - -Cambridge, or York -_England_ - -Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and -dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours. - -Camembert _see_ Chapter 3. - -"Camembert" -_Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_ - -A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box -which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert -_véritable_ of Normandy. - -Camosun -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed -in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated -with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50° -to 60° F. - -Canadian Club -_see_ Cheddar Club. - -Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, -Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comté, -France_ - -Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and -sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and -pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one -of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort. - -Canestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to -mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to -perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for -Italian settlers. - -Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and -La Tome. -_Auvergne, France_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; -yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a -hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures -is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still -made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very -old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or -Guiole. - -Capitanata -_Italy_ - -Sheep. - -Caprian -_Capri, Italy_ - -Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, -and tangy as a buck. - -Caprino (Little Goat) -_Argentina_ - -Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese. - -Caraway Loaf -_U.S.A._ - -This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses -that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kümmel loaf cheese -but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long -made a good Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than the -fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from -Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian -Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to -Pennsylvania Pot. - -Cardiga, Queijo da -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, -a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other -cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild -artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can -compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. -They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. - -Carlsbad -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive. - -Carré Affiné -_France_ - -Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carré and -Ancien Impérial (_see_). - -Carré de l'Est -_France_ - -Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A. - -Cascaval Penir -_Turkey_ - -Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home. - -Caseralla -_Greece_ - -Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy. - -Casere -_Greece_ - -Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet -tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with -goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. - -Cashera -_Armenia and Greece_ - -Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and -high in quality. - -Cashera -_Turkey_ - -Semihard; sheep. - -Casher Penner _see_ Kasher. - -Cashkavallo -_Syria_ - -Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo. - -Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca -_Sardinia_ - -Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method. - -Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta. - -Caspian -_Caucasus_ - -Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to -speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting. - -Cassaro -_Italy_ - -Locally consumed, seldom exported. - -Castelmagno -_Italy_ - -Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type. - -Castelo Branco, White Castle -_Portugal_ - -Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da -Estrella (_see_). - -Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Castle, Schlosskäse -_North Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Catanzaro -_Italy_ - -Consumed locally, seldom exported. - -Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf. - -Celery -_Norway_ - -Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway. - -Cendrée, la -_France--Orléanais, -Blois & Aube_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are Champenois or Ricey, -Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet - -Cendré d'Aizy -_Burgundy, France_ - -Available all year. _See_ la Cendrée. - -Cendré de la Brie -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May. - -Cendré Champenois or Cendré des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes. - -Cendré Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis. - -Certoso Stracchino -_Italy, near Milan_ - -A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have -made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than -the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has -less distinction for the same reason. - -Ceva -_Italy_ - -Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. - -Chabichou -_Poitou, France_ - -Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months -from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to -be vintaged like wine by the year. - -Chaingy -_Orléans, France_ - -Season September to June. - -Cham -_Switzerland_ - -One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister -Pfister (_see_ Pfister). - -Chamois milk - -Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. -This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not -available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain -goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, -most flavorsome of milk. - -Champenois or Fromage des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Season from September to June. The same as Cendré Champenois and des -Riceys. - -Champoléon de Queyras -_Hautes-Alpes, France_. - -Hard; skim-milker. - -Chantelle -_U.S.A._ - -Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best -purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, -perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger." - -Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Chaource -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living -Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert. - -Chapelle -_France_ - -Soft. - -Charmey Fine -_Switzerland_ - -Gruyère type. - -Chaschol, or Chaschosis -_Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_ - -Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by -three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds. - -Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chèvre. - -Chaumont -_Champagne, France_ - -Season November to May. - -Chavignol _see_ Crottin. - -Chechaluk -_Armenia_ - -Soft; pot; flaky; creamy. - -Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3. - -Cheese bread -_Russia and U.S.A._ - -For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread -called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See -both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft -and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. -It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid -with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with -Sapsago. - -Cheese butter - -Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and -mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to -be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. - -Cheese food -_U.S.A._ - -"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from -milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, -relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." -(A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement - -Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. - -Cheese mites _see_ Mites. - -Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in -Chapter 3. - -Cheshire-Stilton -_England_ - -In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold -peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by -keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in -which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and -shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, -making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is -Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. - -Chester -_England_ - -Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was -imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. - -Chevalier -_France_ - -Curds sweetened with sugar. - -Chevèlle -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Wisconsin. - -Chèvre _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. - -Chèvre petit _see_ Petìts Fromages. - -Chèvre, Tome de _see_ Tome. - -Chevretin -_Savoy, France_ - -Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. - -Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy -_Bresse & Franche-Comté, France_ - -Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season -December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in -France. - -Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the -railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. - -Chevrotins -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and -eaten from March to December. - -Chhana -_Asia_ - -All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, -and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. - -Chiavari -_Italy_ - -There are two different kinds named for -the Chiavari region, and both are hard: - I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. -II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the - historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the - birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with - its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. - -Chives cream cheese - -Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, -there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See -both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as -it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. - -Christalinna -_Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. - -Christian IX -_Denmark_ - -A distinguished spiced cheese. - -Ciclo -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese. - -Cierp de Luchon -_France_ - -Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the -distinction of being the only local product worth listing with -France's three hundred notables. - -Citeaux -_Burgundy, France_ - -Trappist Port-Salut. - -Clabber cheese -_England_ - -Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and -automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. - -Clairvaux -_France_ - -Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. - -Claqueret, le -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ -Chives. - -Clérimbert _see_ Alpin. - -Cleves -_France_ - -French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. - -Cloves _see_ Nagelkäse. - -Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese -_U.S.A. and Canada_ - -Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, -but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by -an American company and is now all-American. - -Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very -ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp -Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and -mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are -getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. -All are described as "tangy." - -Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small -porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller -tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." - -Cocktail Cheeses - -Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" -stores: - -Argentine aged Gruyère -Canadian d'Oka -French Bleu -Brie -Camembert -Fontainebleu -Pont l'Evêque -Port du Salut -Roblochon -Roquefort -Grecian Feta -Hungarian Brinza -Polish Warshawski Syr -Rumanian Kaskaval -Swiss Schweizerkäse -American Cheddar in brandy -Hopi Indian - -Coeur à la Crème -_Burgundy, France_ - -This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (_see_) when served with sugar, and -it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that -romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. - -Coeurs d'Arras -_Artois, France_ - -These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with -the cream of Arras. - -Coffee-flavored cheese - -Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with -their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with -Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving -by putting coffee in for flavor. - -Coimbra -_Portugal_ - -Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of -those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the -honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. - -Colby -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains -more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. - -College-educated - -Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their -colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another -called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big -cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in -Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with -one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of -high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe -the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign -imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in -this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of -Emmentaler. - -Colwick _see_ Slipcote. - -Combe-air -_France_ - -Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. - -Commission -_Holland_ - -Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in -color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight -pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. -It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. - -Compiègne -_France_ - -Soft - -Comté _see_ Gruyère. - -Conches -_France_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Condrieu, Rigotte de la -_Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ - -Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of -cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is -rich. - -Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. - -Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. - -Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot -_U.S.A._ - -Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool -it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. -Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is -stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It -is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned -out. - -All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk -flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to -white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, -with or without caraway, such as the following: - -Belgium--Kochtounkäse -Germany--Kochkäse, Topfen -Luxembourg--Kochenkäse -France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux -Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa - -Coon _see_ Chapter 4. - -Cornhusker -_U.S.A._ - -A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body -and more moisture. - -Cornimont -_Vosges, France_ - -A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in -flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé -and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. - -Corse, Roquefort de -_Corsica, France_ - -Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of -course. - -Cossack -_Caucasus_ - -Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: -I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in - the salt bath. -II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. - -Cotherstone -_Yorkshire, England_ - -Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) - -Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. - -Cotta _see_ Pasta. - -Cottage cheese - -Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America -it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like -playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from -the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, -together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania -Dutch cuisine. - -Cottenham or Double Cottenham -_English Midlands_ - -Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and -richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. - -Cottslowe -_Cotswold, England_ - -A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. -Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. - -Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) - -Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers -_France_ - -Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a -pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch -high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris -and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is -made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than -most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by -the avalanche of American summer tourists. - -Cow cheese - -Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying -word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow -cheese. - -Cream cheese -_International_ - -England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins -with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool -in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild -strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also -drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small -molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the -following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: - -Cambridge -Cottslowe -Cornwall -Farm Vale -Guilford -Homer's -"Italian" -Lincoln -New Forest -Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) -St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) -Scotch Caledonian -Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) -Victoria -York - -Crème Chantilly _see_ Hablé. - -Crème de Gien _see_ Fromage. - -Crème de Gruyère -_Franche-Comté France_ - -Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in -tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. - -Crème des Vosges -_Alsace, France_ - -Soft cream. Season October to April. - -Crème Double _see_ Double-Crème. - -Crème, Fromage à la _see_ Fromage. - -Crème, Fromage Blanc à la _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Crème St Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème St Gervais. - -Crèmet Nantais -_Lower Loire, France_ - -Soft fresh cream of Nantes. - -Crèmets, les -_Anjou, France_ - -A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert -than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, -drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and -sugar. - -Cremini -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the -way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of -musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. - -Creole -_Louisiana, U.S.A._ - -Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type -curd and rich cream. - -Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole -milk. Made from September to April. - -Creuse -_Creuse, France_ - -A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different -ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated -earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, -where it has drained for several days: - I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. -II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. - This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay - or Fromage de Foin.) - -Creusois, or Guéret -_Limousin, France_ - -Season, October to June. - -Croissant Demi-sel -_France_ - -Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. - -Crottin de Chavignol -_Berry, France_ - -Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April -to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. - -Crowdie, or Cruddy butter -_Scotland_ - -Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together -with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross -Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd -and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, -the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. - -Crying Kebbuck - -F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name -of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. - -Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. - -Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. - -Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. - -Cumin, Münster au _see_ Münster. - -Cup _see_ Koppen. - -Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. - -Curds and butter -_Arabia_ - -Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in -making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong -mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. - -Curé, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. - - -D - -Daisies, fresh - -A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. -Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use -for seasoning. - -Dalmatian -_Austria_ - -Hard ewe's-milker. - -Dambo -_Denmark_ - -Semihard and nutty. - -Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) -_Hungary_ - -Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular -Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon. - -Danish Blue -_Denmark_ - -Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of -Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is -exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although -it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of -Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and -definitely leads lesser Blues. - -Danish Export -_Denmark_ - -Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine -cheese, as many Danish exports are. - -Dansk Schweizerost -_Denmark_ - -Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. -Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. - -Danzig -_Poland_ - -A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, -Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. - -Darling -_U.S.A._ - -One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of -America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. - -Dauphin -_Flanders, France_ - -Season, November to May. - -d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. - -Daventry -_England_ - -A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" -veins of a darker green. - -Decize -_Nivernaise, France_ - -In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. - -de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. - -de Fontine -_Spain_ - -Crumbly, sharp, nutty. - -de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. - -de Gérardmer _see_ Récollet. - -Delft -_Holland_ - -About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) - -Délicieux - -The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. - -Delikat -_U.S.A._ - -A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück -original. (_See_.) - -de Lile, Boule - -French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. - -Demi-Étuve - -Half-size Étuve. (_See_.) - -Demi Petit Suisse - -The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the -Gros. - -Demi-Sel -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly -saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. - -Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. - -Derby, or Derbyshire -_England_ - -Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though -sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A -factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar -to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a -somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the -flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in -spite of its name. - -Devonshire cream and cheese -_England_ - -Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. -Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. -Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, -which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay -cheese. - -Dolce Verde -_Italy_ - -This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because -cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the -green-blues. - -Domaci Beli Sir -_Yugoslavia_ - -"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical -ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. - -Domestic Gruyère -_U.S.A._ - -An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. - -Domestic Swiss -_U.S.A_ - -Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous -150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is -there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. - -Domiati -_Egypt_ - -Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no -openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's -called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. - -Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny -_England_ - -Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. -"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. -Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than -that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) - -Dotter -_Nürnberg, Germany_ - -An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He -enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual -way. When well ripened it is splendid. - -Doubles - -The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double -Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses -from which some of the cream has been removed. - -Double-cream -_England_ - -Similar to Wensleydale. - -Double-crème -_France_ - -There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is -richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and -Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season -and are much in demand. - -Dresdener Bierkäse -_Germany_ - -A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim -milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as -merely eaten. - -Drinking cheeses - -Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic -countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make -distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up -the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with -pepper sauce in some parts. - -Dry -_Germany_ - -From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. -"This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small -dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It -is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in -the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other -purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle -which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is -thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked -quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed -are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then -placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready -for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) - -Dubreala _see_ Brina. - -Duel -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. - -Dunlop -_Scotland_ - -One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, -which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. -Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one -of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and -weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of -Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. - -Durak -_Turkey_ - -Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. - -Duralag, or Bgug-Panir -_Armenia_ - -Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy -with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days -to two months. - -Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. - -Dutch -_Holland_ - -Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. - -Dutch cheese - -American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. - -Dutch Cream Cheese -_England_ - -Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore -richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call -the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. - -Dutch Mill -_U.S.A._ - -A specialty of Oakland, California. - -Dutch Red Balls - -English name for Edam. - - -E - -Echourgnac, Trappe d' -_Périgord, France_ - -Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. - -Edam _see_ Chapter 3. - -Egg -_Finland_ - -Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. -Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that -these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by -their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen -their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all -Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of -them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. - -Elbinger, or Elbing -_West Prussia_ - -Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is -skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse. - -Ekiwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed -in. - -Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the -brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in -different locales. - -Elmo Table -_Italy_ - -Soft, mellow, tasty. - -Emiliano -_Italy_ - -Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. - -Emmentaler -_Switzerland_ - -There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the -world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese -listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter -3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) - -"En enveloppe" - -French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to -English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to -frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." - -Engadine -_Graubünden, Switzerland_ - -Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. - -English Dairy -_England and U.S.A._ - -Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been -imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. - -Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. - -Epoisses, Fromage d' -_Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ - -Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The -season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and -cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in -making _confits_ with that name. - -Erbo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out -both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. - -Erce -_Languedoc, France_ - -Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November -to May. - -Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. - -Ervy -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half -inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also -known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. - -Essex -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. - -Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. - -Étuve and Demi-Étuve -_Holland_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season -all year. - -Evarglice -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sharp, nutty flavor. - -Excelsior -_Normandy, France_ - -Season all year. - - -F - -Factory Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp -Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too -tractable, in fact. - -Farm -_France_ - -Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with -apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. - -Farmer -_U.S.A._ - -This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, -fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, -or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the -oven. - -Farmhouse _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Farm Vale -_England_ - -Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, -eight to a box. - -Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. - -Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Ferme _see_ Farm. - -Feta _see_ Chapter 3. - -Feuille de Dreux -_Béarn, France_ - -November to May. - -"Filled cheese" -_England_ - -Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese -business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to -make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed -the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in -America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. -But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many -foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony -fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up -coagulation. - -Fin de Siècle -_Normandy, France_ - -Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the -years at the close of the nineteenth century. - -Fiore di Alpe -_Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." - -Fiore Sardo -_Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully -cured. - -Flandre, Tuile de -_France_ - -A kind of Marolles. - -Fleur de Deauville -_France_ - -A type of Brie, in season December to May. - -Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. - -Floedeost -_Norway_ - -Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. - -Fløtost -_Norway_ - -Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. -Similar to Mysost, but fatter. - -Flower -_England_ - -Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, -delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas -scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea -of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese -for them to import except bean curd. - -Fodder cheese - -A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. -Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or -barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. - -Foggiano -_Apulia, Italy_ - -A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. - -Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. - -Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. - -Fontainebleau -_France_ - -Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; -summer variety. - -Fontina -_Val d'Acosta, Italy_ - -Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. - -Fontine, de -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A favorite all-year product. - -Fontinelli -_Italy_ - -Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. - -Fontini -_Parma, Italy_ - -Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same -region as Parmesan. - -Food cheese -_U.S.A._ - -An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese -content to flavor it. - -Forez, also called d'Ambert -_France_ - -The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening -unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six -inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the -cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. -Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The -flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From -_Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we -are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this -alphabet.) - -Formagelle -_Northwest Italy_ - -Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. - -Formaggi di Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming -and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it -into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, -Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. - -Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco -_Italy_ - -Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. -A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two -ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it -ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with -the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and -cinnamon. - -Formaggio d'Oro -_Northwest Italy_ - -Hard, sharp, mountain-made. - -Formaggio Duro (Dry) -and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. - -Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. - -Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome -_Auvergne, France_ - -This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where -many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as -Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert -and Cantal.) - -Fourme de Montebrison -_Auvergne, France_ - -This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. - -Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely -it is sometimes sold under that name. - -Fresa, or Pannedas -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. - -Fribourg -_Italy and Switzerland_ - -Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) - -Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese -_Holland_ - -Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is -made in winter, beginning in November. - -Friesian _see_ West Friesian. - -Fromage à la Creme -_France_ - - I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of - Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. - II. Franche-Comté--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, - whipped egg whites and sugar. -III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is - hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a - little fresh milk and served with cream. - IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket - for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème, - heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. - -Fromage à la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm - -Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille -_France_ - -Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after -Bavaria where it probably originated. - -Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à -la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt -and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la -Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, -except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and -called Fromage Blanc à la Crème. - -Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of -fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also -called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are -Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. - -Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) -_Thionville, Lorraine, France_ - -Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in -many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed -and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk -and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. - -Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. - -Fromage de Bayonne -_Bayonne, France_ - -Made with ewe's milk. - -Fromage de Bôite -_Doubs, France_ - -Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque. - -Fromage de Bourgogne - -_see_ Burgundy. - -Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux -_Berry, France_ - -A seasonal goat cheese. - -Fromage de Curé _see_ Nantais. - -Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté -_Poitou, France_ - -Half goat and half cow milk. - -Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. - -Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncée. - -Fromage de St. Rémy _see_ Chevrets. - -Fromage de Serac -_Savoy, France_ - -Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. - -Fromage de Troyes -_France_ - -Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) - -Fromage de Vache - -Another name for Autun. - -Fromage de Monsieur Fromage -_Normandy, France_ - -This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season -runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe -from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, -mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name -suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. -Chicken. - -Fromage Fort -_France_ - -Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the -department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth -and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After -being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, -salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before -fermenting some more. - -Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and -Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all -France. - -_Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the -gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. - -_Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded -and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ -Hazebrook.) - -_Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In -production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with -brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. - -Fromage Gras (fat cheese) -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, round, fat ball called _tête de mort_, "death's head." Winter -Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name -incited Victor Meusy to these lines: - - _Les gens à l'humeur morose - Prennent la Tête-de-Mort._ - - People of a morose disposition - Take the Death's Head. - -Fromage Mou - -Any soft cheese. - -Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. - -Fromagère _see_ Canquillote. - -Fromages de Chèvre -_Orléanais, France_ - -Small, dried goat-milkers. - -Frühstück - -Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half -to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many -Germans and Americans break their fast. - -Ftinoporino -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. - - -G - -Gaiskäsli -_Germany and Switzerland_ - -A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three -inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half -pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the -whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt -the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. - -Gammelost -_Norway_ - -Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned -daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So -far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way -through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to -medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his -_Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the -ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of -eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi -flavored with cheese." - -Garda -_Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town -on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious -little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the -moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. - -Garden -_U.S.A._ - -Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. - -Garlic -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. - -Garlic-onion Link -_U.S.A._ - -A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, -nobody knows why. - -Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ - -Gautrias -_Mayenne, France_ - -Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. - -Gavot -_Hautes-Alpes, France_ - -A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. - -Geheimrath -_Netherlands_ - -A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep -yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight - -Gérardmer, de _see_ Récollet - -German-American adopted types - -Bierkäse -Delikat -Grinnen -Hand -Harzkäse -Kümmelkäse -Koppen -Lager -Liederkranz -Mein Kaese -Münster -Old Heidelberg -Schafkäse (sheep) -Silesian -Stein -Tilsit -Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer) - -Géromé, la -_Vosges, France_ - -Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, -but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. -It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. - -Gervais -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. -Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. -Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. - -Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. - -Getmesost -_Sweden_ - -Soft; goat; whey; sweet. - -Gex -_Pays de Gex, France_ - -Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from -November to May. - -Gex Marbré -_France_ - -A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, -mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues -family, that are green in spite of their name. - -Gien _see_ Fromage à la Crème. - -Gislev -_Scandinavia_ - -Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. - -Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made -with goat's milk. - -Glavis -_Switzerland_ - -The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) - -Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse -_Germany_ - -Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that -includes Olmützer Quargel. - -Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. - -Gloucester -_Gloucestershire, England_ - -There are two types: - I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six - months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of - flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure - its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply - to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you - then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the - praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." - _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by André L. Simon. -II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester - ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" - brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and - "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is - from an old vintage." - -Glumse -_West Prussia, Germany_ - -A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. - -Glux -_Nivernais, France_ - -Season, all year. - -Goat -_France_ - -A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. -Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled -dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants -smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, -goat cheese is always notable or noble. - -Gold-N-Rich -_U.S.A._ - -Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. -Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and -deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red -rind. - -Gomost -_Norway_ - -Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is -curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a -butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) - -Gorgonzola -_Italy_ - -Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is -White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by -local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. - -Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. - -Gouda, Kosher -_Holland_ - -The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit -more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the -Jewish authorities who prepare it. - -Goya -_Corrientes, Argentine_ - -Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses -the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes -Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. - -It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines -the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same -for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of -which excel the originals. - -Gournay -_Seine, France_ - -Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 -pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of -an inch thick and four inches long. - -Grana -_Italy_ - -Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that -the curd is cut into. - -Grana Lombardo -_Lombardy_ - -The same hard type for grating, named -after its origin in Lombardy. - -Grana Reggiano -_Reggio, Italy_ - -A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not -only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes -by a pet name of its own--Regianito. - -Grande Bornand, la -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. - -Gras, or Velvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tête de -Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of -Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tête de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras -is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France -and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) - -Gratairon -_France_ - -Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. - -Graubünden -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Green Bay -_U.S.A._ - -Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the -Limburger county. - -Grey -_Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ - -Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. -Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. -It has a very pleasant taste. - -Gruyère _see_ Chapter 3. - -Güssing, or Land-l-kas -_Austria_ - -Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. - - -H - -Habas _see_ Caille. - -Hablé Crème Chantilly -_Ösmo, Sweden_ - -Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old -Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and -sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big -city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the -finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Hand _see_ Chapter 3. - -Hard -_Puerto Rico_ - -Dry; tangy. - -Harzkäse, Harz -_Harz Mountains, Germany_ - -Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying -from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little -boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like -Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. - -Harzé -_Belgium_ - -Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery -at Harzé. - -Hasandach -_Turkey_ - -Bland; sweet. - -Hauskäse. -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. Disk-shaped. - -Haute Marne -_France_ - -Soft; square. - -Hay, or Fromage au Foin -_Seine, France_ - -A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write -home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. - -Hazebrook - -There are two kinds: - - I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and - pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. - -II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and - marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. - -Head - -Four cheeses are called Head: - -The French Death's Head. -Swiss Monk's Head. -Dutch Cat's Head. -Moor's Head. - -There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only -a cheese by discourtesy. - -Health _see_ Holstein. - -Herbesthal -_Germany_ - -Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. - -Herkimer -_U.S.A._ - -Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. - -Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House -_West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ - -Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. -Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden -and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. - -Herrgårdstyp _see_ Hushållsost. - -Hervé -_Belgium_ - -Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, -parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in -three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. - -Hickory Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. - -Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. - -Hohenheim -_Germany_ - -Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) - -Hoi Poi -_China_ - -Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. - -Hoja _see_ Queso de. - -Hollander -_North Germany_ - -Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. - -Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. - -Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner -_Germany_ - -Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. - -Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a -little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into -half-pound molds and cooled. - -Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse -_Germany_ - -Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. - -Hop, Hopfen -_Germany_ - -Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal -beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. - -Hopi -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the -Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. - -Horner's -_England_ - -An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce -originated. - -Horse Cheese - -Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of -the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. - -Hum -_Holland_ - -Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you -say "Ho-hum." - -Hushållsost, Household Cheese -_Sweden_ - -Popular in three types: -Herrgårdstyp--Farmhouse -Västgötatyp--Westgotland -Sveciatyp--Swedish - -Hvid Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of -Scandinavia. - - -I - -Icelandic - -In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is -like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like -the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. - -Ihlefield -_Mecklenburg, Germany_ - -A hand cheese. - -Ilha, Queijo de -_Azores_ - -Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, -measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, -_Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as -_Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their -cheeses. - -Impérial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. - -Imperial Club -_Canada_ - -Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien -Impérial. - -Incanestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" -from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the -three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. - -Irish Cheeses - -Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named -after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, -Three Counties, etc. - -Isigny -_France_ - -Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The -American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt -to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be -closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) - -In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as -famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as -any cream can. - -Island of Orléans -_Canada_ - -This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by -early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island -in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, -Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name -"refined." - - -J - -Jack _see_ Monterey. - -Jochberg -_Tyrol, Germany_ - -Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain -cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs -in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. - -Jonchée -_Santonge, France_ - -A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, -uniquely, black coffee. - -Josephine -_Silesia, Germany_ - -Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical -packages. - -Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. - -Julost -_Sweden_. - -Semihard; tangy. - -Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel -_France_ - -Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. - - -K - -Kaas, Oude -_Belgium_ - -Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. - -Kackavalj -_Yugoslavia_ - -Same as Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kaiser-käse -_Germany_ - -This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still -made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, -yellow container of tang. - -Kajmar, or Serbian Butter -_Serbia and Turkey_ - -Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between -that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. - -Kamembert -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Camembert. - -Karaghi La-La -_Turkey_ - -Nutty and tangy. - -Kareish -_Egypt_ - -A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. - -Karut -_India_ - -Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. - -Karvi -_Norway_ - -Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. - -Kash -_Rumania_ - -Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. - -Kashcavallo, Caskcaval -_Greece_ - -A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kasher, or Caher, Penner -_Turkey_ - -Hard; white; sharp. - -Kash Kwan -_Bulgaria and the Balkans_ - -An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, -grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is -sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big -American cities. - -Kaskaval -_Rumania_ - -Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in -Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As -popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. - -Kasseri -_Greece_ - -Hard; ewe's milk, usually. - -Katschkawalj -_Serbia_ - -Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. - -Katzenkopf, Cat's Head -_Holland_ - -Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Kaukauna Club -_U.S.A._ - -Widely advertised processed cheese food. - -Kauna -_Lithuania_ - -A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. - -Kefalotir, Kefalotyi -_Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ - -Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or -ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or -Kefalo. - -Keg-ripened -_see_ Brand. - -King Christian IX -_Denmark_ -Sharp with caraway. Popular with -everybody. - -Kingdom Farm -_U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ -The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and -Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky -enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not -available elsewhere. - -Kirgischerkäse _see_ Krutt. - -Kjarsgaard -_Denmark_ - -Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. - -Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese -_Germany_ - -A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to -promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the -_Konditories_. - -Kloster, Kloster Käse -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this -was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting -tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named -from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. - -Kochenkäse -_Luxembourg_ - -Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended -for diets. - -Koch Käse -_Germany_ - -This translates "cooked cheese." - -Kochtounkäse -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. - -Kolos-monostor -_Rumania_ - -Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of -those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and -professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. - -Kolosvarer -_Rumania_ - -A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are -so many of the world's fine cheeses. - -Komijnekaas, Komynekass -_North Holland_ - -Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. - -Konigskäse -_Germany_ - -A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. - -Kopanisti -_Greece_ - -Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. - -Koppen, Cup, or Bauden -_Germany_ - -Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape -and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. -Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. - -Korestin -_Russia_ - -Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. - -Kosher - -This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to -Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish -authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) - -Krauterkäse -_Brazil_ - -Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the -Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss -Krauterkäse even though it is processed. - -Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese -_Switzerland_ - -Hard, grating cheese flavored with -herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse. - -Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse -_Asian Steppes_ - -A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, -from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and -pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. - -Kühbacher -_Bavaria_ - -Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, -where it is made. - -Kuminost -_Norway_ - -Semihard; caraway-seeded. - -Kumminost -_Sweden_ - -This is Bondost with caraway added. - -Kummin Ost -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin -where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. - -Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas -_Holland_ - -Caraway-seeded and named. - -Kümmelkäse -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for -itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to -imported kümmel liqueur. - - -L - -Labneh -_Syria_ - -Sour-milk. - -La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau -_France_ - -Cream cheese. - -Lager Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is -more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. - -Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole -_Aveyron, France_ - -An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman -occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full -season from November to May. - -Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray -_Poitou_ - -Goat cheese made from May to November. - -Lancashire, or Lancaster -_North England_ - -White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. -It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in -the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. -It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of -different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. -Deep orange in color. - -Land-l-kas, or Güssing -_Austria_ - -Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. - -Langlois Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly -compete with Roquefort. - -Langres -_Haute-Marne, France_ - -Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, -high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, -said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. -Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two -pounds. Consumed mostly at home. - -Lapland -_Lapland_ - -Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and -flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. - -Laredo -_Mexico_ - -Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. - -Larron -_France_ - -A kind of Maroilles. - -Latticini -_Italy_ - -Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. - -Laumes, les -_Burgundy, France_ - -Made from November to July. - -Lauterbach -_Germany_ - -Breakfast cheese - -Leaf _see_ Tschil. - -Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy -_Germany_ - -A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great -_milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point -in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick -and stirred with a Danish stirrer." - -Lebanie -_Syria_ - -Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. - -Lecco, Formaggini di -_Italy_ - -Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese -family as big as the human family of most Italians. - -Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. - -LeGuéyin -_Lorraine, France_ - -Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper -make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. - -Leicester -_England_ - -Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty -pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With -Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. - -An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made -for each other." - -Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. - -Leonessa - -A kind of Pecorino. - -Leroy -_U.S.A._ - -Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. - -Lerroux -_France_ - -Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or -winter months. - -Lescin -_Caucasus_ - -Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into -a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken -up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But -after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing -two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and -wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. - -The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine -in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as -in many wild and mountainous parts. - -Les Petits Bressans -_Bresse, France_ - -Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump -pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in -fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. - -Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. - -Le Vacherin - -Name given to two entirely different varieties: - I. Vacherin à la Main -II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) - -Levroux -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to December. - -Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese -_Holland_ - -Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of -Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made -on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory -product. - -Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. - -Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Lincoln -_England_ - -Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where -there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big -break for most natural cheeses. - -Lindenhof -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. - -Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu -_Hungary_ - -A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from -which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name -for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk -and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most -sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour -milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." -(_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Lipto -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both -Liptauer and Brinza. - -Little Nippy -_U.S.A._ - -Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to -"slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no -matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. - -Livarot -_Calvados, France_ - -Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, -fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the -same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months -when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six -by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of -caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By -June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early -in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the -cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and -help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, -piquant Livarot. - -Livlander -_Russia_ - -A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese -itself is red, not the rind. - -Locatelli -_Italy_ - -A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. - -Lodigiano, or Lombardo -_Lodi, Italy_ - -Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; -surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan -but not as fine in quality. - -Longhorn -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long -horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn -breed of cow that furnished the makings. - -Lorraine -_Lorraine, Germany_ - -Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio -nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce -portions that bring a very high price. - -Lumburger -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because -it has no odor. - -Lunch -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener. - -Lüneberg -_West Austria_ - -Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as -Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a -character of its own. - -Luxembourg -_U.S.A._ - -Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. - - -M - -Maconnais -_France_ - -Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. - -Macqueline -_Oise, France_ - -Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper -price. - -Madridejos -_Spain_ - -Named for Madrid where it is made. - -Magdeburger-kuhkäse -_Germany_ - -"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. - -Magerkäse _see_ Holstein Skim Milk - -Maggenga, Sorte -_Italy_ - -A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. - -Maguis -_Belgium_ - -Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. - -Maigre -_France_ - -A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras -and spring Migras. - -Maile -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine -bath where it stays sometimes a year. - -Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. - -Mainauer -_German_ - -Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three -pounds. - -Mainzer Hand -_German_ - -Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for -quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in -kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in -making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. - -Majocchino -_Sicily, Italy_ - -An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, -sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of -Incanestrato. - -Malakoff -_France_ - -A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or -ripe. - -Manicamp -_French Flanders_ - -In season from October to July. - -Mano, Queso de -_Venezuela_ - -A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. -(_See_ Venezuelan.) - -Manor House _see_ Herrgårdsost. - -Manteca, Butter -_Italy_ - -Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering -of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual -for any Italian cheese. - -Manur, or Manuri -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers -can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added -with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and -allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and -dried." - -Maqueé -_Belgium_ - -Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. - -Marches -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk; hard. - -Margarine -_England_ - -An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. - -Margherita -_Italy_ - -Soft; cream; small. - -Marienhofer -_Austria_ - -Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; -weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. - -Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand -_Germany_ - -Soft; smelly; hand type. - -Maroilles, Marolles, Marole -_Flanders, France_ - -Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. -Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five -inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. - -Martha Washington Aged Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in -Chapter 4.) - -Mascarpone, or Macherone -_Italy_ - -Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in -muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. - -McIntosh -_Alaska_ - -An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and -described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at -times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar -Box_ by Dean Collins. - -McLaren's -_U.S.A._ - -Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in -Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. - -Meadowbloom -_U.S.A._ - -Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. - -Mecklenburg Skim -_Germany_ - -No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. - -Meilbou -_France_ - -Made in the Champagne district. - -Mein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. - -Melfa -_U.S.A._ - -Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half -moons. - -Melun -_France_ -Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de -Melun. - -Mentelto -_Italy_ -Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains - -Merignac -_France_ -Goat. - -Merovingian -_Northeast France_ -Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the -Merovingian kings. - -Mersem -_France_ -Lightly cooked. - -Mesitra -_Crimea_ -Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. - -Mesost -_Sweden_ -Whey; sweetish. - -Metton -_Franche-Comté, France_ -Season October to June. - -Meuse -_France_ -Soft; piquant; aromatic. - -Midget Salami Provolone -_U.S.A._ -This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, -too. - -Mignot -_Calvados, France_ -_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season -only in summer, April to September. - -_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only -seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and -popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados -cider, fresh, hard or distilled. - -Migras - -Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin -summer Maigre. - -Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches -thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. - -Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. - -Millefiori -_Milan, Italy_ - -A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no -cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. - -Milltown Bar -_U.S.A._ - -Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. - -Milk cheeses - -Milks that make cheese around the world: - -Ass -Buffalo -Camel -Chamois -Elephant -Goat -Human (_see_ Mother's milk) -Llama -Mare -Reindeer -Sea cow (Amazonian legend) -Sheep -Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) -Yak -Zebra -Zebu - -U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange -animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. - -Milwaukee Kümmelkäse -and Hand Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and -successfully imitated. - -Minas -_Brazil_ - -Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. -Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands -are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss -professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the -State Capital, Bello Horizonte. - -Minnesota Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, -Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals -to be proud of. - -Mintzitra -_in Macedonia; and_ -Mitzithra -_in Greece_ - -Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep -cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. - -Modena, Monte -_U.S.A._ - -Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. - -Mohawk Limburger -Spread -_U.S.A._ - -A brand that comes in one-pound jars. - -Moliterno -_Italy_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ - -Monceau -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard, similar to Maroilles. - -Moncenisio -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. - -Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse -_Austria_ - -This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the -Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch -of the Limburgers. - -The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is -shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle -Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of -whole milk. - -Money made of cheese -_China_ - -In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is -a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, -writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, -1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some -thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the -field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as -'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other -commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading -medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was -sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for -other articles of service." - -Monk's Head _see_ Tête de Moine. - -Monostorer -_Transylvania, Rumania_ - -Ewe's milk. - -Monsieur -_France_ - -Soft; salted; rich in flavor. - -Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - -Montana -_Catalonia_ - -A mountain cheese. - -Montasio -_Austria and Italy_ - -Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is -often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both -fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and -sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve -months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely -imitated in America. - -Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de -_Brittany, France_ - -A celebrated cheese of Brittany. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the -_Achittea_ family. - -Mont Blanc -_France_ - -An Alpine cheese. - -Mont Cenis -_Southeastern France_ -Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is -semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and -Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and -sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy -bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing -twenty-five pounds. - -Mont-des-Cats -_French Flanders_ - -Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. - -Montdidier -_France_ - -A fresh cream. - -Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone -Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to -Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than -either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best -is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. -Didier. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. - -Monterey -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in -California and along the Mexican border. - -Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. - -Monthéry -_Seine-et-Oise, France_ - -Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, -weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color -in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. - -Montpellier -_France_ - -Sheep. - -Moravian -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Semihard and sharp. - -Morbier -_Bresse, France_ - -In season from November to July. - -Mostoffait -_France_ - -A little-known product of Champagne. - -Mother's milk - -In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des -Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts -the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was -so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." -All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it -was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, -"Then all of us are cannibals." - -Mountain -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; yellow; sharp. - -Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. - -Mount Hope -_U.S.A._ - -Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. - -Mouse or Mouse Trap -_U.S.A._ - -Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade -store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, -however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. - -Mozzarella -_Italy_ - -Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white -cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a -half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at -Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like -Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is -imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. - -Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of -about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. - -Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true -Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. - -Mozzarinelli -_Italy_ - -A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. - -Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. - -Münster -_Germany_ - -German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to -Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; -whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to -strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. -Best in winter season, from November to April. - -Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and -French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer -season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise -seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is -served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. - -In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au -Cumin because of the caraway. - -American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They -are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. - -Mustard -_U.S.A._ - -A processed domestic, Gruyère type. - -Myjithra - -Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. - -Mysost, Mytost -_Scandinavia_ - -Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey -cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, -instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. -Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are -cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. - - -N - -Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland -_Austria_ - -Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, -in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. - -Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate -_Brittany, France_ - -A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. - -Nessel -_England_ - -Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. - -Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and Chapter -9. - -New Forest -_England_ - -Cream cheese from the New Forest district. - -Nieheimer -_Westphalia, Germany_ - -Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. -Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both -beer and hops in one cheese is unique. - -Niolo -_Corsica_ - -In season from October to May. - -Noekkelost or Nögelost -_Norway_ - -Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a -Gouda. - -Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" -_U.S.A._ - -Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, -perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. - -Nordost -_Sweden_ - -Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. - -North Wilts -_Wiltshire, England_ - -Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small -size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. - -Nostrale -_Northwest Italy_ - -An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: - I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring - when the cows are in the valley. -II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk - from lush mountain-grazing. - -Notruschki (cheese bread) -_Russia_ - -Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. - -Nova Scotia Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia -manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to -give the luxurious flavor. - -Nuworld -_U.S.A._ - -This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a -brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, -heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and -flavor. - -A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new -species or not. - - -O - -Oaxaca -_see_ Asadero. - -Oka, or La Trappe -_Canada_ - -Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada -after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ -Trappe. - -Old English Club -_U.S.A._ - -Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. - -Old Heidelberg -_U.S.A._ - -Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. - -Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile -_France_ - -A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron. - -Olive Cream -_U.S.A._ - -Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos -for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American -taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma -olives and Feta sheep cheese. - -Olivet -_Orléans, France_ - -Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: - I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. - II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. -III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. - -Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 -of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen -into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A -dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop -into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. - -Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour -_Béarn, France_ - -In season from October to May. - -Onion with garlic links -_U.S.A_ - -Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. - -Oporto -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. - -Orkney -_Scotland_ - -A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat -bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch -country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell -have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. - -Orléans -_France_ - -Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy. - -Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach -_Caucasus_ - -Comes in two forms: - I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. -II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of - sheep milk is the better. - -Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this -type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. - -Oswego -_U.S.A._ - -New York State Cheddar of distinction. - -Oude Kaas -_Belgium_ - -Popular in France as Boule de Lille. - -Oust, Fromage de -_Roussillon, France_ - -Of the Camembert family. - -Ovár -_Hungarian_ - -Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild -but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. - -Oveji Sir -_Yugoslavian Alpine_ - -Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. -Weight six to ten pounds. - -Oxfordshire -_England_ - -An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan -Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: - "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, - pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' - - "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' - - "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the - coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your - lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" - - -P - -Pabstett -_U.S.A_ - -The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although -beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has -long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste -to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular -beer. - -Packet cheese -_England_ - -This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package -or packet it comes in. - -Paglia -_Switzerland_ - -Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A -Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because -in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a -foreign type. - -Pago -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in -weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. - -Paladru -_Savoy, France_ - -In season from November to May. - -Palpuszta -_Hungary_ - -Fairly strong Limburger type. - -Pannarone -_Italy_ - -Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. - -Parenica -_Hungary_ - -Sheep. Caciocavallo type. - -Parmesan, Parmigiano -_Italy_ - -The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the -world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with -the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta -al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in -a mortar with a pestle. - -Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau -_German_ - -Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau. - -Pasta Cotta -_Italy_ - -The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. - -Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which -Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) - -Pasteurized Process Cheese Food -_U.S.A._ - -This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had -Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world -of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. - -Pastorella -_Italy_ - -Soft, rich table cheese. - -Patagras -_Cuba_ - -Similar to Gouda. - -Pecorino -_Italy_ - -Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. - -Pelardon de Rioms -_Languedoc, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to November. - -Peneteleu -_Rumania_ - -One of the international Caciocavallo family. - -Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album - -Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd -destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that -impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second -spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. - -Pennich -_Turkey_ - -Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. - -Pennsylvania Hand Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever -since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or -cooked. - -Penroque -_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ - -Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ -and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal -condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of -Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of -mother cow than mother nature. - -Pepato -_Italy_ - -Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine -for fire-eaters. - -An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. - -Persillé de Savoie -_Savoie, France_ - -In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner -similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. - -Petafina, La -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, -plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. - -Petit Carré -_France_ - -Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial. - -Petit Gruyère -_Denmark_ - -Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost -unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also -packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen -cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of -several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at -home. - -Petit Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -A pet name for Coulommiers. - -Petit Suisse -_France_ - -Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to -Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: - Gros--a largest cylinder - Demi--a small one - -Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised -its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, -Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is -ideal with honey. - -Petit Vacher -_France_ - -"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. - -Petits Bourgognes -_Lower Burgundy, France_ - -Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning -with B are Banons and Bressans. - -Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les -_France_ - -Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. - -Petits Fromages de Chèvre -_France_ - -Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of -Provence. - -Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers -_Poitou, France_ - -Clotted milk in small pots. - -Pfister -_Cham, Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh -skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to -manufacture it, in Chain. - -Philadelphia Cream -_U.S.A._ - -An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. -Made in New York State in spite of its name. - -Picnic -_U.S.A._ - -Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long -been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. - -Picodon de Dieule Fit -_Dauphiné, France_ - -In season from May to December. - -Pie, Fromage à la -_France_ - -Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese -type. - -Pie Cheese -_U.S.A_ - -An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in -wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And -by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to -find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being -wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind -on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make -processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying -word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged -nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" -out of a processed "Cheddar." - -Pimiento -_U.S.A._ - -Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland -national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or -cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old -Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that -equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. - -Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. - -Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. - -Piora -_Tessin, Switzerland_ - -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. - -Pippen -_U.S.A._ - -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll - -Pithiviers au Foin -_France_ - -Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May. - -Poitiers -_France_ - -Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. - -Pommel -_France_ - -All year. Double cream; unsalted. - -Ponta Delgada -_Azores_ - -Semifirm; delicate; piquant - -Pontgibaud -_France_ - -Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. - -Pont l'Evêque - -Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like -Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The -Inquisitive Cow." - -Poona -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in -two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature -before serving. - -Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. - -Port, Blue Links -_U.S.A._ - -"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. - -Pot cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite -for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and -macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the -sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. -Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. - -Potato -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes -added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the -potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die -curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two -of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. -The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a -fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered -with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen -for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is -probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a -period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it -appears to be the same." -From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. - -Potato Pepper -_Italy_ - -Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, -only not so stony hard. - -Pots de Crème St. Gervais -_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ - -The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both -as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. - -Pouligny-St. Pierre -_Touraine, France_ - -A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to -December. - -Poustagnax, le -_France_ - -A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. - -Prato -_Brazil_ - -Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland -Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named -not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from -whence it was borrowed long ago. - -Prattigau -_Switzerland_ - -Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home -valley. - -Prestost or Saaland Flarr -_Sweden_ - -Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, -packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed -daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. - -Primavera, Spring -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like -fragrance. - -Primost -_Norway_ - -Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. - -Primula -_Norway_ - -A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in -Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with -caraway added. - -Processed -_U.S.A._ - -From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by -emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic -mass. - -Promessi -_Italy_ - -Small soft-cream cheese. - -Provatura -_Italy_ - -A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for -a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. - -Providence -_France_ - -Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. - -Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and -Provolino -_Italy_ - -All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and -appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the -U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. - -Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in -the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, -Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to -four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with -huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all -sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that -are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. - -P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit -_Lorraine, France_ - -Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. - -Puant Macere -_Flanders_ - -"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November -to June. - -Pultost or Knaost -_Norway_ - -Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. - -Pusztador -_Hungary_ - -Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. - -Pyrenees, Fromage des -_France_ - -A fine mountain variety. - - -Q - -Quartiolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September -and November. - -Quacheq -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. - -Quargel _see_ Olmützer. - -Quartirolo -_Italy_ - -Soft, cow's milk. - -Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal -_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, -Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. - -Queso Anejo -_Mexico_ - -White, dry, skim milk. - -Queso de Bola -_Mexico_ - -Whole milk, similar to Edam. - -Queso de Cavallo -_Venezuela_ - -Pear-shaped cheese. - -Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. - -Queso de Cincho -_Venezuela_ - -Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. - -Queso de Crema -_Costa Rica_ - -Similar to soft Brick. - -Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese -_Puerto Rico_ - -Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. - -Queso de Mano -_Venezuela_ - -Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. - -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra -_Puerto Rico_ - -White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, - -Queso de Prensa -_Puerto Rico_ - -The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after -ripening two or three months. - -Queso de Puna -_Puerto Rico_ - -Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. - -Queso de Tapara -_Venezuela_ - -Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and -tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the -time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno -Provecho._ - -Queso Fresco -_El Salvador_ - -Cottage-cheese type. - -Queville _see_ Chapter 3. - -Queyras _see_ Champoléon. - - -R - -Rabaçal -_Coimbra, Portugal_ - -Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in -diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. - -Rabbit Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. - -Radener -_Germany_ - -Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by -four inches, weight 32 pounds. - -Radolfzeller Cream -_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ - -Similar to Münster. - -Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. - -Rahmkäse, Allgäuer -_German_ - -Cream. - -Rainbow -_Mexico_ - -Mild; mellow. - -Ramadoux -_Belgium_ - -Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé - -Rammil or Rammel -_England_ - -André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also -called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically -unobtainable today. - -Rangiport -_France_ - -A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. - -Rarush Durmar -_Turkey_ - -Brittle; mellow; nutty. - -Rächerkäse - -The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very -popular. - -Raviggiolo -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. - -Rayon or Raper -_Switzerland_ - -A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is -hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. - -Reblochon or Roblochon -_Savoy_ - -Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to -two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. - -Récollet de Gérardmer -_Vosges, France_ - -A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April - -Red -_Russia_ - -_see_ Livlander. - -Red Balls -_Dutch_ - -_see_ Edam. - -Reggiano _see_ Grana. - -Regianito -_Argentine_ - -Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere -imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. - -Reichkäse -_German_ - -Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. - -Reindeer -_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ - -In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk -It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is -curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. - -Relish cream cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. - -Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant -_Belgium_ - -The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it -is. The season is winter, from November to June. - -Requeijão -_Portugal and Brazil_ - -Recooked. - -Resurrection _see_ Welsh. - -Rhubarbe -_France_ - -A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our -pie plant. - -Riceys _see_ Champenois. - -Ricotta Romano -_Italy_ - -Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, -piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, -sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. - -Ricotta -_Italy and U.S.A._ - -Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, -blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and -rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, -some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor -substitute whey cheese. - -Ricotta Salata - -Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and -too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. - -Riesengebirge -_Bohemia_ - -Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's -northern mountains. - -Rinnen -_Germany_ - -This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named -from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. - -Riola -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to -ripen, two to three months. - -Robbiole -Robbiola -Robbiolini -_ Lombardy_ -_ Italian_ - -Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine -quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to -two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at -just under four ounces. - -Roblochon, le - -Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried -sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. - -Rocamadur -_Limousin, France_ - -Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. - -Rocroi -_France_ - -From the Champagne district. - -Rokadur -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Roquefort. - -Roll -_England_ - -Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. - -Rollot or Rigolot -_Picardy and Montdidier, France_ - -Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but -much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only -cheese. - -Roma -_Italy_ - -Soft cream. - -Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings -_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ - -A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is -not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is -scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. - -Romano, Romano Vacchino -_Italy_ - -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. - -Romanello -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating -cheese, cured one year. - -Roquefort -_France_ - -King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_ -Chapter 3. - -Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled -_U.S.A._ - -Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead -of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, -mustard, flour and spice oil. - -Roquefort de Corse -_Corsica, France_ - -This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep -milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. - -Roquefort de Tournemire -_France_ - -Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal -Roquefort name. - -Rougerets, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically -every variety is made with goat milk. - -Rouennais -_France_ - -This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten -from October to May. - -Round Dutch -_Holland_ - -An early name for Edam. - -Rouy, le -_Normandy, France_ - -From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. - -Royal Brabant -_Belgium_ - -Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. - -Royal Sentry -_Denmark_ - -Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't -yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American -one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its -ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe -(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese -whey solids and disodium phosphate. - -Ruffec, Fromage de -_Saintonge, France_ - -Fresh; goat. - -Runesten -_Denmark and U.S.A._ - -Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three -pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. - -Rush Cream Cheese -_England and France_ - -Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but -from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and -sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are -collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, -covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer -and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then -increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily -until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the -fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape -baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup -new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one -teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty -drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place -until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the -straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The -mats or baskets should not be used a second time. - - -S - -Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost -_Sweden_ - -Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with -whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with -whiskey. - -Saanen -_Switzerland_ - -Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest -cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as -Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth -century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. -It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and -then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds -and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for -ripening is six years, but some take nine. - -Sage, or Green cheese -_England_ - -This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the -U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the -method described in Chapter 4. - -Saint-Affrique -_Guyenne, France_ - -This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives -up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local -renown. - -We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the -host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped -abroad. - -Saint-Agathon -_Brittany, France_ - -Season, October to July. - -Saint-Amand-Montrond -_Berry, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Benoit -_Loiret, France_ - -Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt -rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to -fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about -six inches in diameter. - -Saint-Claude -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half -pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is -then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. - -Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Florentin -_Burgundy, France_ - -A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. - -Saint-Flour -_Auvergne, France_ - -Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. - -Saint-Gelay -_Poitou, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais -_see_ Pots de Crème. - -Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. - -Saint-Honoré -_Nivernais, France_ - -A small goat cheese. - -Saint-Hubert -_France_ - -Similar to Brie. - -Saint-Ivel -_England_ - -Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. -Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with -_Bacillus Bulgaricus._ - -Saint-Laurent -_Roussillon, France_ - -Mountain sheep cheese. - -Saint-Lizier -_Béarn, France_ - -A white, curd cheese. - -Saint-Loup, Fromage de -_Poitou and Vendée, France_ - -Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September - -Saint-Marcellin -_Dauphiné, France_ - -One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, -weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. -Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially -a goat cheese. - -Saint-Moritz -_Switzerland_ - -Soft and tangy. - -Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre -_Auvergne, France_ - -Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. - -Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. - -Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. - -Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. - -Saint-Rémy, Fromage de -_Haute-Saône, France_ - -Soft Pont l'Evêque type. - -Saint-Stefano -_German_ - -Bel Paese type. - -Saint-Winx -_Flanders, France_ - -The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian -border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. - -Sainte-Anne d'Auray -_Brittany, France_ - -A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. - -Sainte-Marie -_Franche-Comté, France_ - -A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. - -Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine -_France_ - -Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay. - -Salamana -_Southern Europe_ - -Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. -It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix -with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. - -Salame -_France_ - -Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. -Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in -Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has -became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout -America. - -Salers, Bleu de -_France_ - -One of the very good French Blues. - -Saligny -_Champagne, France_ - -White cheese made from sheep's milk. - -Saloio -_Lisbon, Portugal_ - -An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 -to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near -the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. - -Salonite -_Italy_ - -Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. - -Saltee -_Ireland_ - -Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as -Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its -name implies. - -Salt-free cheese, for diets - -U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse. - -Samsö -_Denmark_ - -Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet -cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. - -Sandwich Nut - -An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel. - -Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. - -Sardegna -_Sardinia_ - -A Romano type made in Sardinia. - -Sardinian -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. - -Sardo -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. -There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. - -Sarraz or Sarrazin -_Vaud, Switzerland_ - -Roquefort type. - -Sassenage -_Dauphiny, France_ - -Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of -Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the -three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented -variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. - -Satz -_Germany_ - -Hard cheese made in Saxony. - -Savoy, Savoie -_France_ - -Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. - -Sbrinz -_Argentine_ - -Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. - -Scanno -_Abruzzi, Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened -rind, deep yellow interior. - -Scarmorze or Scamorze -_Italy_ - -Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being -made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang -from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine -when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. -Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in -Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. - -Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese) -_Germany_ - -Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. - -Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ - -Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six -pounds. - -Schlickermilch - -This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, -sour milk "waddle" cheese. - -Schlesische Sauermilchkäse -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered -shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in -summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three -to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. - -Schlesischer Weichquarg -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short -time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded -and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply -flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand -cheese odor develops. - -Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck -_German_ - -This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of -his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic -Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. - -Schmierkäse - -German cottage cheese that becomes -smearcase in America. - -Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. - -Schönland -_German_ - -Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." - -Schützenkäse -_Austria_ - -Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces -and wrapped in tin foil. - -Shottengsied -_Alpine_ - -A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. - -Schwarzenberger -_Hungary and Bohemia_ - -One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to -ripen. - -Schweizerkäse -_Switzerland_ - -German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) - -Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese -_Denmark_ - -A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing -wonderful. - -Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. - -Selles-sur Cher -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. - -Sénecterre -_Puy-de-Dôme, France_ - -Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. - -Septmoncel -_France_ - -Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and -sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to -Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk -triplets with Gex and Sassenage. - -Serbian -_Serbia_ - -Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk -over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an -hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth -and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it -is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally -with fresh milk for six. - -Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is -semisoft. - -Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. - -Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) -_Portugal_ - -The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other -milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated -by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is -ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds -averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside -is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. - -Sharp-flavored cheese - -U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, -Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de -Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. - -Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. - -Silesian -_Poland and Germany_ - -White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) - -Sir cheeses - -In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. -Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or -holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and -Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. - -Sir Iz Mjesine -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open -fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the -curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. -Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is -dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, -packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. - -Sir Mastny -_Montenegro_ - -Fresh sheep milk. - -Sir Posny -_Montenegro_ - -Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to -the names of Tord and Mrsav. - -Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. - -Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. - -Siraz -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. - -Skyr -_Iceland_ - -The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire -cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well -liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the -subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not -advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before -riding, as it gives you diarrhea." - -Slipcote, or Colwick -_England_ - -Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in -forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is -placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it -is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily -slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it -was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as -today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. - -Smältost -_Sweden_ - -Soft and melting. - -Smearcase - -Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for -cottage cheese. - -Smoked Block -_Austria_ - -A well-smoked cheese in block form. - -Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. - -Smoked Szekely -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. - -Smokelet -_Norway_. - -A small smoked cheese. - -Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. - -Sorbais -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full -flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, -but smaller. - -Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga - -Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. - -Soumaintrain, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Soybean -_China_ - -Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with -a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our -occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese -and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. - -Spalen or Stringer -_Switzerland_ - -A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of -Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the -vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. - -Sperrkäse _see_ Dry. - -Spiced -_International_ - -Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, -to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and -thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes -the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in -English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and -Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; -whole black pepper Pepato, etc. - -Spiced and Spiced Spreads -_U.S.A._ - -Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less -than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. - -Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. -_France_ - -Spitz Spitzkase -_Germany_ - -Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, -Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. - -Sposi -_Italy_ - -Soft; small; cream. - -Spra -_Greek_ - -Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in -one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made -principally from sheep milk. - -Stängenkase -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. - -Stein Käse -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after -the old German original. - -Steinbuscher-Käse -_German_ - -Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, -reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at -home but little known abroad. - -Steppe -_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ - -German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it -tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as -in Germany and Austria for home consumption. - -Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. - -Stirred curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed -younger. - -Stracchino -_Italy_ - -Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and -pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A -fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter -3. Also see Certoso Stracchino. - -Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of -this distinguished family. - -Stravecchio -_Italy_ - -Well-aged, according to the name. -Creamy and mellow. - -Stringer _see_ Spalen. - -Styria -_Austria_ - -Whole milk. Cylindrical form. - -Suffolk -_England_ - -An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" -cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has -stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty -hardness. - - "Hunger will break through stone walls and anything - except a Suffolk cheese." - - "Those that made me were uncivil - For they made me harder than the devil. - Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; - Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me." - -Surati, Panir -_India_ - -Buffalo milk. Uncolored. - -Suraz -_Serbia_ - -Semihard and semisoft. - -Sveciaost -_Sweden_ - -A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match -Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full -cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six -weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, -wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as -most _osts_ are. - -Sweet-curd -_U.S.A._ - -Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd -cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, -however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by -the granular process. - -Swiss -_U.S.A._ - -In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, -Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling -their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever -since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their -standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had -competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical -cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler. - -Szekely -_Transylvania, Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is -the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American -processed links, with wine flavors and everything. - - -T - -Taffel, Table, Taffelost -_Denmark_ - -A Danish brand name for an ordinary -slicing cheese. - -Tafi -_Argentina_ - -Made in the rich province of Tucuman. - -Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de -_Périgord, France_ - -Very small and tasty goat cheese. - -Taleggio -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type. - -Tallance -_France_ - -Goat. - -Tamie -_France_ - -Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is -more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced -not far away. - -Tanzenberger -_Carinthia, Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Tao-foo or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are -ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch -dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is -coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the -same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After -being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and -added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is. - -Teleme -_Rumania_ - -Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of -sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days. - -Terzolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter. - -Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head -_France_ - -Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam. - -Tête de Moine, Monk's Head -_France_ - -A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer -Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay. - -Tête de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head. - -"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" -_Scotland_ - -Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme -that exposes it: - - The first love token ye gae me - Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. - O wae be to the tempting cheese, - The tempting cheese of Fyvie, - Gat me forsake my ain gude man - And follow a fottman laddie. - -Texel - -Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of -Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands. - -Thenay -_Vendôme, France_ - -Resembles Camembert and Vendôme. - -Thion -_Switzerland_ - -A fine Emmentaler. - -Three Counties -_Ireland_ - -An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most -of the Irish cheese. - -Thuringia Caraway -_Germany_ - -A hand cheese spiked with caraway. - -Thyme -_Syria_ - -Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other -herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, -Hazebrook II. - -Tibet -_Tibet_ - -The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of -sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to -string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. -They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, -in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.) - -Tignard -_Savoy, France_ - -Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in -Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel. - -Tijuana -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town. - -Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4. - -Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit -_Germany_ - -This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. -Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open -texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is -stronger and coarser. - -Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to -imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a -good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, -and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations. - -The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a -good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial -dallying." - -Tilziski -_Yugoslavia_ - -A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter. - -Tome de Beaumont -_France_ - -Whole cow's milk. - -Tome, la -_Auvergne, France_ - -Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar -that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, -etc. - -Tome de Chèvre -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft goat cheese. - -Tome de Savoie -_France_ - -Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des -Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane. - -Tomelitan Gruyère -_Norway_ - -Imitation of French Gruyère in 2-1/2 ounce packages. - -Topf or Topfkäse -_Germany_ - -A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk -cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it -is flaky. - -Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a -table cheese. - -Toscanello -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -A smaller edition of Toscano. - -Touareg -_Berber, Africa_ - -Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then -dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or -placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and -never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber -tribes. - -Tour Eiffel -_Berry, France_ - -Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque -label and trademark for a brand of Camembert. - -Touloumisio -_Greece_ - -Similar to Feta. - -Tournette -_France_ - -Small goat cheese. - -Tourne de chèvre -_Dauphiné, France_ - -Goat cheese. - -Trappe, la, or Oka -_Canada_ - -Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian -monastery. - -Trappist _see_ Chapter 3. - -Trappist -_Yugoslavia_ - -Trappist Port-Salut imitation. - -Trauben (Grape) -_Switzerland_ - -Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the -grape. - -Travnik, Travnicki -_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_ - -Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally -skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and -adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and -Vlasic. - -When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It -ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and -is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type -when aged is characteristically oily and sharp. - -Traz os Montes -_Portugal_ - -Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically -named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit -muttony, but none of it at all tallowy. - -Trecce -_Italy_ - -Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh. - -Triple Aurore -_France_ - -Normandy cheese in season all the year around. - -Troo -_France_ - -Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January. - -Trouville -_France_ - -Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality. - -Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy. - -Truckles -_England_ - -No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue -Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. -On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a -handout: - - Pray, dame, something, - An apple or a dumpling, - Or a piece of Truckle cheese - Of your own making. - -No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar -put up in loaves. - -Tschil -_Armenia_ - -Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or -cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is -drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil. - -Tuile de Flandre -_France_ - -A type of Marolles. - -Tullum Penney -_Turkey_ - -Salty from being soaked in brine. - -Tuna, Prickly Pear -_Mexico_ - -Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and -straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike -consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when -hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or -flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or -confection in Mexico for centuries. - -Tuscano -_Italy_ - -Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan. - -Twdr Sir -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. -Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to -Brick or Limburger. - -Twin Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, -Wisconsin. - -Tworog -_Russia_ - -Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese -bread called Notruschki. - -Tybo -_Denmark_ - -Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk. - -Tyrol Sour -_German_ - -A typical Tyrolean hand cheese. - -Tzgone -_Dalmatia_ - -The opposite number of Tzigen, just below. - -Tzigenkäse -_Austria_ - -Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; -originated in Dalmatia. - - -U - -Urda -_Rumania_ - -Creamy; sweet; mild. - -Uri -_Switzerland_ - -Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight -to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds. - -Urseren -_Switzerland_ - -Mild flavored. Cooked curd. - -Urt, Fromage d' - -Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country. - - -V - -Vacherin -_France and Switzerland_ - -I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft -interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches -in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is -almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the -hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny -than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on -bread. The local name is Tome de Montague. - -II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called -Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our -conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e." - -Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for -the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss -classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin. - -Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du -_Andorra, France_ - -Sheep milk. - -Valdeblore, le -_Nice, France_ - -Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese. - -Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay -_Touraine, France_ - -Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to -December. This was a favorite with Francis I. - -Valio -_Finland_ - -One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss -cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, -Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real -cheese is. - -Valsic -_Albania_ - -Crumbly and sharp. - -Varalpenland -_Germany_ - -Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and -smell. - -Varennes, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Västerbottenost -_West Bothnia_ - -Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, -almost bitter taste. - -Västgötaost -_West Gothland, Sweden_ - -Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty -to thirty pounds. - -Vendôme, Fromage de -_France_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under -ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris. - -Veneto, Venezza -_Italy_ - -Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp. - -Vic-en-Bigorre -_France_ - -Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May. - -Victoria -_England_ - -The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford. - -Ville Saint-Jacques -_France_ - -Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May. - -Villiers -_France_ - -Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne. - -Viry-vory, or Vary -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Viterbo -_Italy_ - -Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. -Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino -family. - -Vize -_Greece_ - -Ewe's milk; suitable for grating. - -Void -_Meuse, France_ - -Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. - -Volvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% -fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.) - -Vorarlberg Sour-milk -_Greasy_ - -Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong -flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk. - -Vory, le -_France_ - -Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse. - - -W - -Warshawski Syr -_Poland_ - -Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland. - -Warwickshire -_England_ - -Derbyshire type. - -Washed-curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any -abnormal flavors. - -Wedesslborg -_Denmark_ - -A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully -ripened. - -Weisschmiere -_Bavaria, Germany_ - -Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four -months. - -Weisslacker, White Lacquer -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and -rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of -Germany's finest soft cheeses. - -Welsh cheeses - -The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh -"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at -one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream -cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same -delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John -Keats. - -"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer -available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because -it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen -into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such -wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by -Rhys Davies.) - -Wensleydale -_England_ - - I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to -Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the -Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June -to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, -but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put -on. - -II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through -the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made -(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and -winter. - -Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse -_West Prussia_ - -Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda. - -West Friesian -_Netherlands_ - -Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of -it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet: - - Good bread, good butter and good cheese - Is good English and good Friese. - -Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is -mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the -richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of -about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put -down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the -seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, -like Limburger, before pressing. - -This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so -soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and -Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was -perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago. - -The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the -name Briol. - -Whale Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which -the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the -possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as -petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after -milking the whales. - -White, Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten -fresh, with or without salt. - -White Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. -Green Bay brand is a fine example of it. - -White Gorgonzola - -This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known -outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.) - -White Stilton -_England_ - -This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic -veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag. - -Whitethorn -_Ireland_ - -Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except -that it is colored. - -Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch -_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_ - -Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at -Itzehoe. - -Wiltshire or Wilts -_England_ - -A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North -Wilts.) - -Wisconsin Factory Cheeses -_U.S.A._ - -Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the -age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American -Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but -most of it is sold green when far too young. - -Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss. - -Withania -_India_ - -Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet -from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This -names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, -it becomes acrid with age. - - -Y - -Yoghurt, or Yogurt -_U.S.A._ - -Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the -milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel. - -York, York Curd and Cambridge York -_England_ - -A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are -becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too -rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which -it is cured, for local consumption. - -Yorkshire-Stilton -_Cotherstone, England_ - -This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine -internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general -favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung. - -York State -_U.S.A._ - -Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars. - -Young America -_U.S.A._ - -A mild, young, yellow Cheddar. - -Yo-yo -_U.S.A._ - -Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on -strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped -like a yo-yo. - - -Z - -Ziegel -_Austria_ - -Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months. - -Ziegenkäse -_Germany_ - -A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. -Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse. - -Ziger - - I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food -made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, -Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are -flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey -bread. - -II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of -whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes. - -Zips _see_ Brinza. - -Zomma -_Turkey_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. - -Zwirn _see_ Tschil. - - - - -[Illustration] - -Index of Recipes - -American Cheese Salad, 128 -Angelic Camembert, 120 -Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 -Apple Pie à la Cheese, 119 -Apple Pie Adorned, 119 -Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 -Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 -au Gratin - Eggs, 125 - Potatoes, 125 - Tomatoes, 125 - -Blintzes, 111 -Brie or Camembert Salad, 128 - -Camembert, Angelic, 120 -Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 -Cheddar Omelet, 135 -Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 -Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 -Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 -Cheese Charlotte, 133 -Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 -Cheese Custard, 118 -Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 -Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 -Cheese Waffles, 112 -Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 -Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 -Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 -Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 -Cold Dunking, 133 -Custard, Cheese, 118 - -Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 -Diablotins, 135 -Dumpling, Napkin, 112 -Dunking, Cold, 133 - -Eggs au Gratin, 125 - -Flan au Fromage, 119 -Fondue - à l'Italienne, 84 - All-American, 85 - au Fromage, 90 - Baked Tomato, 89 - Brick, 92 - Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 - Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 - Cheese, 92 - Cheese, and Corn, 92 - Cheese and Rice, 91 - Chives, 88 - Comtois, 88 - Corn and Cheese, 92 - Neufchâtel Style, 82 - 100% American, 90 - Parmesan, 86 - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 - Rice, and Cheese, 91 - Sapsago Swiss, 86 - Tomato, 89 - Tomato Baked, 89 - Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 -Fritters, Italian, 109 -Fritto Misto, Italian, 137 - -Garlic on Cheese, 110 -Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 -Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - -Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 -Italian Fritters, 109 -Italian Fritto Misto, 137 -Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108 - -Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108 - -Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 -Miniature Pizzas, 107 - -Napkin Dumpling, 112 -Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108 - -Omelet - Cheddar, 135 - Meal-in-One, 135 - Parmesan, 135 - Tomato, 136 - with Cheese Sauce, 136 -Onion Soup, 126 -Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 -Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118 - -Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 -Parmesan Omelet, 135 -Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 -Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, 134 -Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 -Piroghs, Polish, 137 -Pizza, 106 - Cheese, 107 - Dough, 106 - Miniature, 107 - Tomato Paste, 107 -Polish Piroghs, 137 -Potatoes au Gratin, 125 -Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 -Puffs - Breakfast, 100 - Cheese, New England, 100 - Cream Cheese, 100 - Danish Fondue, 100 - Fried, 99 - New England Cheese, 100 - Parmesan, 99 - Roquefort, 99 - Three-in-One, 98 - -Rabbit - After-Dinner, 55 - All-American Succotash, 77 - American Woodchuck, 63 - Anchovy, 70 - Asparagus, 68 - Basic - No. 1 (with beer), 49 - No. 2 (with milk), 50 - Blushing Bunny, 63 - Border-hopping Bunny, 60 - "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 - Buttermilk, 76 - Celery and Onion, 67 - Chipped Beef, 66 - Cream Cheese, 75 - Crumby, 70 - Crumby Tomato, 71 - Curry, 76 - Danish, 77 - Devil's Own, The, 65 - Dr. Maginn's, 54 - Dried Beef, 66 - Dutch, 72 - Easy English, 78 - Eggnog, 77 - Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 - Fluffy, Eggy, 64 - Frijole, 60 - Gherkin, 71 - Ginger Ale, 76 - Golden Buck, 59 - Golden Buck II, 59 - Grilled Sardine, 69 - Grilled Tomato, 65 - Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 - Gruyère, 73 - Kansas Jack, 66 - Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 - Latin-American Corn, 67 - Mexican Chilaly, 64 - Mushroom-Tomato, 67 - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Original Recipe, Ye, 57 - Oven, 58 - Oyster, 68 - Pink Poodle, 74 - Pumpernickel, 72 - Reducing, 75 - Roe, 69 - Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 - Running, 63 - Sardine, Grilled, 69 - Sardine, Plain, 69 - Savory Eggy Dry, 75 - Scotch Woodcock, 63 - Sea-food, 68 - Sherry, 73 - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Smoked Cheddar, 70 - Smoked fish, 70 - South African Tomato, 61 - Spanish Sherry, 74 - Stieff Recipe, The, 51 - Swiss Cheese, 73 - Tomato, 61 - Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 - Tomato, Crumby, 71 - Tomato, Grilled, 65 - Tomato Soup, 62 - Tomato, South American, 61 - Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 - Yale College, 59 - Yorkshire, 58 -Ramekins - à la Parisienne, 103 - Casserole, 105 - Cheese I, 101 - Cheese II, 102 - Cheese III, 102 - Cheese IV, 103 - Frying Pan, 105 - Morézien, 104 - Puff Paste, 105 - Roquefort-Swiss, 104 - Swiss-Roquefort, 104 -Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 -Roquefort, Champagned, 122 -Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 -Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129 - -Salad - American Cheese, 128 - Apple and Cheese, 130 - Brie, 128 - Camembert, 128 - Cheese and Nut, 128 - Cheese and Pea, 130 - Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 - Swiss Cheese, 129 - Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Sandwiches - Alpine Club, 141 - Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 - Cheeseburgers, 141 - Deviled Rye, 142 - Egg, Open-faced, 142 - French-fried Swiss, 142 - Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 - He-man, Open-faced, 143 - International, 143 - Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises, 143 - Kümmelkäse, 143 - Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 - Meringue, Open-faced, 144 - Neufchâtel and Honey, 144 - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 - Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 - Pickled Camembert, 145 - Queijo da Serra, 145 - Roquefort Nut, 145 - Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 - Tangy, 146 - Toasted Cheese, 148 - Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 - Vegetarian, 146 - Witch's, 147 - Xochomilco, 147 - Yolk Picnic, 147 -Sauce - Cheese, 131 - Mornay, 131 - Parsleyed Cheese, 131 -Sauce Mornay, 131 -Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 -Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 -Soufflé - Basic, 95 - Cheese-Corn, 96 - Cheese Fritter, 98 - Cheese-Mushroom, 97 - Cheese-Potato, 97 - Cheese-Sea-food, 97 - Cheese-Spinach, 96 - Cheese-Tomato, 96 - Corn-Cheese, 96 - Mushroom-Cheese, 97 - Parmesan, 95 - Parmesan-Swiss, 96 - Potato-Cheese, 97 - Sea-food-Cheese, 97 - Spinach-Cheese, 96 - Swiss, 96 - Tomato-Cheese, 96 -Soup - Chicken Cheese, 127 - Onion, 126 - Onion, au Gratin, 126 - Supa Shetgia, 133 -Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 -Straws, 133 -Stuffed Celery, 132 -Supa Shetgia, 133 -Swiss Cheese Salad, 129 - -Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Tomato Omelet, 136 -Tomatoes au Gratin, 125 - -Vatroushki, 111 - -Waffles, Cheese, 112 - - - - -ABOUT THE AUTHOR - - * * * * * - -Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and -enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New -York and summed them all up in this book. - -Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and -entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number -of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching -their students how to hole an Emmentaler. - -After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob -celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be -Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, -Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose -on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five -years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's -dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, -Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_. - -For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de -Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 -to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials -under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, -_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first -five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties. - -In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent -in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled -down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the -Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his -_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, -while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, -that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ -and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude -Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._ - -The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he -returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There -he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of -thirty books bearing his name. - -After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their -mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where -he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his -free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a -score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book -business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other -out-of-the-way items. - -[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, -removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references -to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.] - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293-8.txt or 14293-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - https://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/14293-8.zip b/old/14293-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 06d6f21..0000000 --- a/old/14293-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/14293-h.zip b/old/14293-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 60b7d78..0000000 --- a/old/14293-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/14293-h/14293-h.htm b/old/14293-h/14293-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index 6107e99..0000000 --- a/old/14293-h/14293-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,17741 +0,0 @@ -<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" - "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> -<head> - <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Complete Book of - Cheese, by Bob Brown.</title> - <style type="text/css"> - /*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ - <!-- - p { margin-top: .75em; - text-align: justify; - margin-bottom: .75em; - } - h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { - text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ - clear: both; - } - hr { width: 33%; - margin-top: 2em; - margin-bottom: 2em; - margin-left: auto; - margin-right: auto; - clear: both; - } - body {margin-left: 8%; - margin-right: 8%; - } - .author {text-align: right;} - .toc{margin-left: 12%; - margin-right: 12%; - } - .cats /* categories of recipes */ { - text-align: right; - font-size: 115%; - margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 1.2em; - } - .rightalign { - margin-right: 15%; - text-align: right; - font-size: 112%; - } - table{margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} - - .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ - .blockquot {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; - margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; - font-size: 90%;} - .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ - .sidenote {width: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; - padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; margin-left: 1em; - float: right; clear: right; margin-top: 1em; - font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: dashed 1px;} - - .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} - .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} - .bt {border-top: solid 2px;} - .br {border-right: solid 2px;} - .bbox {border: solid 2px;} - - .center {text-align: center;} - .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} - - .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} - - .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: - 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} - - .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; - margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} - - .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} - .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} - .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} - .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} - - .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} - .poem br {display: none;} - .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} - .poem span {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} - .poem span.i2 {display: block; margin-left: 1em;} - .poem span.i4 {display: block; margin-left: 2em;} - .poem span.auth {display: block; margin-left: 10em;} - // --> - /* XML end ]]>*/ - </style> -</head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -Project Gutenberg's The Complete Book of Cheese, by Robert Carlton Brown - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -</pre> - - <h2><!-- Page 1 --><a name="Page_1" - id="Page_1"></a> <!-- Contents moved to page 3 --> - <!-- Page 2 --><a name="Page_2" - id="Page_2"></a> BOB BROWN</h2> - - <h1>The Complete Book<br /> - of Cheese</h1> - - <p><i>Illustrations by</i> Eric Blegvad</p> - - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/002.gif" - width="450" - height="314" - alt="Illustration: cheese store" /> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Gramercy Publishing Company</i><br /> - <br /> - <i>New York</i><br /> - 1955 - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 3 --><a name="Page_3" - id="Page_3"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><i>Author of</i><br /> - <br /> - THE WINE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - AMERICA COOKS<br /> - <br /> - 10,000 SNACKS<br /> - <br /> - SALADS AND HERBS<br /> - <br /> - THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES<br /> - <br /> - THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK!<br /> - <br /> - THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ<br /> - <br /> - MOST FOR YOUR MONEY<br /> - <br /> - OUTDOOR COOKING<br /> - <br /> - FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK<br /> - <br /> - THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK</p> - - <p><i>Co-author of Food and Drink Books by</i> The Browns</p> - - <p>LET THERE BE BEER!<br /> - <br /> - HOMEMADE HILARITY</p> - - <p><!-- Page 4 --><a name="Page_4" - id="Page_4"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/004.gif" - width="225" - height="104" - alt="Illustration:TO" /> - </div> - - <h3>PHIL</h3> - - <h3>ALPERT</h3> - - <h3><i>Turophile Extraordinary</i></h3> - - <p><!-- Page 5 --><a name="Page_5" - id="Page_5"></a> </p><!-- Blank page --> - - <p><!-- Page 6 --><a name="Page_6" - id="Page_6"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/006.gif" - width="250" - height="282" - alt="Contents" /> - </div> - - <div class="toc"> - <p><b> 1. <a href="#Page_7">I Remember - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 2. <a href="#Page_11">The Big - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 3. <a href="#Page_17">Foreign - Greats</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 4. <a href="#Page_37">Native - Americans</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 5. <a href="#Page_50">Sixty-five Sizzling - Rabbits</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 6. <a href="#Page_84">The Fondue</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 7. <a href="#Page_99">Soufflés, Puffs - and Ramekins</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 8. <a href="#Page_111">Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes - and Cheese Cake</a></b></p> - - <p><b> 9. <a href="#Page_129">Au Gratin, Soups, Salads - and Sauces</a></b></p> - - <p><b>10. <a href="#Page_144">Appetizers, Crackers, - Sandwiches, Savories, Snacks, Spreads and - Toasts</a></b></p> - - <p><b>11. <a href="#Page_154">"Fit for Drink"</a></b></p> - - <p><b>12. <a href="#Page_158">Lazy Lou</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_166">APPENDIX—The A-B-Z of - Cheese</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#AtoZ_A">A</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_B">B</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_C">C</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_D">D</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_E">E</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_F">F</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_G">G</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_H">H</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_I">I</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_J">J</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_K">K</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_L">L</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_M">M</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_N">N</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_O">O</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_P">P</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Q">Q</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_R">R</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_S">S</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_T">T</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_U">U</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_V">V</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_W">W</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Y">Y</a> - <a href="#AtoZ_Z">Z</a> </b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_316">INDEX OF RECIPES</a></b></p> - - <p><b><a href="#Page_320">ABOUT THE AUTHOR</a></b></p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 7 --><a name="Page_7" - id="Page_7"></a> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 8 --><a name="Page_8" - id="Page_8"></a> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/008.gif" - width="450" - height="326" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - One</i> - </div> - - <h2>I Remember Cheese</h2> - - <p>Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the - cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the - millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with - a hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of - judging a crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness - for centuries. The abracadabra is comparable to that of the - wine-taster or tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear - of music-masters and, merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down - to an air pocket left by a gas bubble just how mature the - interior is.</p> - - <p>The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and - I, too, that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread - handy and made my way from one fine cheese to another, trying - out generous plugs from the heaped cannon balls that looked - like the ammunition dump at Antietam.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 9 --><a name="Page_9" - id="Page_9"></a> I remember another market day, this time in - Lucerne. All morning I stocked up on good Schweizerkäse - and better Gruyère. For lunch I had cheese salad. All - around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound - Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little - café, absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal - quantities. I learned that a prize cheese must be chock-full - of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes produced during - fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar glass. The - cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its - flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement - each other as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There - are, I learned, "blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the - million-eyed ones are better.</p> - - <p>But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for - cheese memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over - the cheeses of all nations, first importing them, then - imitating them, from Swiss Engadine to what we call Genuine - Sprinz. We've naturalized Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns - and baptized our own Saaland Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty - popular Italian types we duplicate more than half, some fairly - well, others badly.</p> - - <p>We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the - Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in - Litchfield County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy - Neufchâtel, New York Coon, Vermont Sage, the delicious - Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and dozens of others, - not all quite so original.</p> - - <p>And, true to the American way, we've organized - cheese-eating. There's an annual cheese week, and a cheese - month (October). We even boast a mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month - Club. We haven't yet reached the point of sophistication, - however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets regularly. - To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred - basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded.</p> - - <p>This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my - amateur way I have during the past year or two been sharpening - my <!-- Page 10 --><a name="Page_10" - id="Page_10"></a>cheese perception with whatever varieties I - could encounter around New York. I've run into briny - Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like - Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is - one of the greatest—and least competitively - crowded—of sports. I hope this book may lead others to - give it a try.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <p><!-- Page 11 --><a name="Page_11" - id="Page_11"></a> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/011.gif" - width="450" - height="315" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Two</i> - </div> - - <h2>The Big Cheese</h2> - - <p>One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed - in at four tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years - ago. Another monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in - the New York State Fair at Syracuse in 1937.</p> - - <p>Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way - from New Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of - 1924. But, compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a - Baby Gouda. As a matter of fact, neither England nor any of her - great dairying colonies have gone in for mammoth jobs, except - Canada, with that four-tonner shown at Toronto.</p> - - <p>We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can - find out all about them in <i>Cheddar Gorge,</i> edited by Sir - John Squire. The first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the - largest made, up to the year 1825. It was proudly presented to - H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its heft almost tied the 147-pound - Green <!-- Page 12 --><a name="Page_12" - id="Page_12"></a>County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss presented - by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation - of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss - to 50 percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under - 150, His Royal Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed - high hat and all, was a hundred-weight heavier, and thus - almost dwarfed it.</p> - - <p>It was almost a century later that the second - record-breaking Chester weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it - won a Gold Medal and a Challenge Cup and was presented to the - King, who graciously accepted it. This was more than Queen - Victoria had done with a bridal gift cheese that tipped the - scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's yield from 780 - contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, - measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The - assembled donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they - asked royal permission to exhibit it on a round of country - fairs. The Queen assented to this ambitious request, perhaps - prompted by the exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking - cheesemongers assured Her Majesty that the gift would be - returned to her just as soon as it had been exhibited. But the - Queen didn't want it back after it was show-worn. The donors - began to quarrel among themselves about what to do with the - remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many lost - causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again.</p> - - <p>While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the - better, (much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is - better than a pint), there is a limit to the obesity of a - block, ball or brick of almost any kinds of cheese. When they - pass a certain limit, they lack homogeneity and are not nearly - so good as the smaller ones. Today a good magnum size for an - exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize Provolone, 280 - pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw crowds to any - food-shop window.</p> - - <p>Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese - Hall of Fame and come down to us in song and story. For - example, that four-ton Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, - James McIntyre, who doubled as the local undertaker.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 13 --><a name="Page_13" - id="Page_13"></a> <span>We have thee, mammoth - cheese,<br /></span> <span>Lying quietly at your - ease;<br /></span> <span>Gently fanned by evening - breeze,<br /></span> <span>Thy fair form no flies - dare seize.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>All gaily dressed soon you'll go<br /></span> - <span>To the greatest provincial show,<br /></span> - <span>To be admired by many a beau<br /></span> - <span>In the city of Toronto.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>May you not receive a scar as<br /></span> - <span>We have heard that Mr. Harris<br /></span> - <span>Intends to send you off as far as<br /></span> - <span>The great world's show at Paris.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Of the youth beware of these,<br /></span> - <span>For some of them might rudely - squeeze<br /></span> <span>And bite your cheek; then - song or glees<br /></span> <span>We could not sing, oh, - Queen of Cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was - inspired by "The Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of - Cheshire." This was in the summer of 1801 when the patriotic - people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, turned out en masse to - concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green for presentation - to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique demonstration - occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the - greatest political triumph of a new country in a new - century—the victory of the Democrats over the - Federalists. Its collective making was heralded in Boston's - <i>Mercury and New England Palladium</i>, September 8, - 1801:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>The Mammoth Cheese</i></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD</span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>From meadows rich, with clover red,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A thousand heifers come;<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 14 --><a name="Page_14" - id="Page_14"></a> The tinkling bells the tidings - spread,<br /></span> <span>The milkmaid muffles up - her head,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And wakes - the village hum.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In shining pans the snowy flood<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Through whitened canvas - pours;<br /></span> <span>The dyeing pots of otter - good<br /></span> <span>And rennet tinged with madder - blood<br /></span> <span class="i2">Are sought among - their stores.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The quivering curd, in panniers - stowed,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Is loaded on the - jade,<br /></span> <span>The stumbling beast supports - the load,<br /></span> <span>While trickling whey - bedews the road<br /></span> <span class="i2">Along the - dusty glade.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">The arid deserts roam,<br /></span> - <span>Through trackless sands undaunted - tread,<br /></span> <span>With skins of water on their - head<br /></span> <span class="i2">To cheer their - masters home,<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>So here full many a sturdy swain<br /></span> - <span class="i2">His precious baggage - bore;<br /></span> <span>Old misers e'en forgot their - gain,<br /></span> <span>And bed-rid cripples, free - from pain,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Now took the - road before.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The widow, with her dripping mite<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon her saddle horn,<br /></span> - <span>Rode up in haste to see the sight<br /></span> - <span>And aid a charity so right,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">A pauper so forlorn.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The circling throng an opening drew<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Upon the verdant-grass<br /></span> - <span>To let the vast procession through<br /></span> - <span><!-- Page 15 --><a name="Page_15" - id="Page_15"></a>To spread their rich repast in - view,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And Elder J. L. - pass.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then Elder J. with lifted eyes<br /></span> - <span class="i2">In musing posture stood,<br /></span> - <span>Invoked a blessing from the skies<br /></span> - <span>To save from vermin, mites and - flies,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And keep the - bounty good.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Now mellow strokes the yielding pile<br /></span> - <span class="i2">From polished steel - receives,<br /></span> <span>And shining nymphs stand - still a while,<br /></span> <span>Or mix the mass with - salt and oil,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With sage - and savory leaves.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Then sextonlike, the patriot troop,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">With naked arms and - crown,<br /></span> <span>Embraced, with hardy hands, - the scoop,<br /></span> <span>And filled the vast - expanded hoop,<br /></span> <span class="i2">While - beetles smacked it down.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Next girding screws the ponderous - beam,<br /></span> <span class="i2">With heft immense, - drew down;<br /></span> <span>The gushing whey from - every seam<br /></span> <span>Flowed through the - streets a rapid stream,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">And shad came up to town.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated - today by a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of - Cheshire, located between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route - 8.</p> - - <p>Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of - Cheshire rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a - token of fidelity from the very heart of the people of this - land to the great cause of equal rights to all men."</p> - - <p>This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van - Buren succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar - mammoth <!-- Page 16 --><a name="Page_16" - id="Page_16"></a>cheese in token of the high esteem in which - he was held. A monstrous one, bigger than the Jeffersonian, - was made by New Englanders to show their loyalty to - President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the hall - of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the - fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had - eaten their fill.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 17 --><a name="Page_17" - id="Page_17"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/017.gif" - width="450" - height="268" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Three</i> - </div> - - <h2>Foreign Greats</h2> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ode to Cheese</i><br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"></div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>God of the country, bless today Thy - cheese,<br /></span> <span>For which we give Thee - thanks on bended knees.<br /></span> <span>Let them be - fat or light, with onions blent,<br /></span> - <span>Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether - scent<br /></span> <span>Of sheep or fields is in them, - in the yard<br /></span> <span>Let them, good Lord, at - dawn be beaten hard.<br /></span> <span>And let their - edges take on silvery shades<br /></span> <span>Under - the moist red hands of dairymaids;<br /></span> - <span>And, round and greenish, let them go to - town<br /></span> <span>Weighing the shepherd's folding - mantle down;<br /></span> <span>Whether from Parma or - from Jura heights,<br /></span> <span>Kneaded by august - hands of Carmelites,<br /></span> <span>Stamped with - the mitre of a proud abbess.<br /></span> - <span>Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of - Bresse,<br /></span> <span>From hollow Holland, from - the Vosges, from Brie,<br /></span> <span>From - Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy!<br /></span> <span> - <!-- Page 18 --><a name="Page_18" - id="Page_18"></a> Bless them, good Lord! Bless - Stilton's royal fare,<br /></span> <span>Red - Cheshire, and the tearful cream - Gruyère.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S - TRANSLATION<br /></span> <span class="auth">OF A POEM - BY M. Thomas Braun<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Symphonie des Fromages</i></p> - - <p>A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with - an ax, stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss - Gruyère resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot - There were Dutch Edams, round and blood-red, and - Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on parade. Three Bries, - side by side, suggested phases of the moon; two of them, - very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the third, in - its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And - all the while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely - contempt upon the other, through the glass of their crystal - covers.</p> - - <p class="author">Emile Zola</p> - </div> - - <p>In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture - published Handbook No. 54, entitled <i>Cheese Varieties and - Descriptions,</i> with this comment: "There probably are only - about eighteen distinct types or kinds of natural cheese." All - the rest (more than 400 names) are of local origin, usually - named after towns or communities. A list of the best-known - names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups is - given:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese varieties" - cellpadding="6"> - <tr> - <td align="left">Brick</td> - - <td align="left">Gouda</td> - - <td align="left">Romano</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Camembert</td> - - <td align="left">Hand</td> - - <td align="left">Roquefort</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cheddar</td> - - <td align="left">Limburger</td> - - <td align="left">Sapsago</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cottage</td> - - <td align="left">Neufchâtel</td> - - <td align="left">Swiss</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Cream</td> - - <td align="left">Parmesan</td> - - <td align="left">Trappist</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">Edam</td> - - <td align="left">Provolone</td> - - <td align="left">Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta)</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 19 --><a name="Page_19" - id="Page_19"></a> May we nominate another dozen to form our - own Cheese Hall of Fame? We begin our list with a partial - roll call of the big Blues family and end it with members of - the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that includes - Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>The Blues that Are Green</b></p> - - <p>Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that - rules a world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as - green as the mythical cheese the moon is made of.</p> - - <p>In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a - handful of lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three - and try to classify them, until you're blue in the face. The - best we can do in this slight summary is to mention a few of - the most notable, aside from our own Blues of Minnesota, - Wisconsin, Oregon and other states that major in cheese.</p> - - <p>Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as - "Flower of Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass - Blue all its own. But France and England are the leaders in - this line, France first with a sort of triple triumvirate - within a triumvirate—Septmoncel, Gex, and Sassenage, all - three made with three milks mixed together: cow, goat and - sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura - mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank - Roquefort.</p> - - <p>This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage - persillé, as well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. - Similar mountain cheeses are made in Auvergne and Aubrac and - have distinct qualities that have brought them fame, such as - Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de Salers, and - St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color scheme, - and sundry others such as Champoléon, Journiac, Queyras - and Sarraz.</p> - - <p>Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside - Stilton and Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early - days, and still <!-- Page 20 --><a name="Page_20" - id="Page_20"></a>is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest - green of them all, and esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese - not liked by everybody, the favorite of Thomas Hardy.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Brie</b></p> - - <p>Sheila Hibben once wrote in <i>The New Yorker:</i></p> - - <p>I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being - the queen of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, - I shall certainly ignore it. The very shape of Brie—so - uncheese-like and so charmingly fragile—is exciting. Nine - times out of ten a Brie will let you down—will be all - caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or at the - over-runny stage, which means it is too old—but when you - come on the tenth Brie, <i>coulant</i> to just the right, - delicate creaminess, and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no - other cheese can compare with it.</p> - - <p>The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to - remember: only months with an "R," beginning with September, - which is the best, bar none.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Caciocavallo</b></p> - - <p>From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as - Caciocavallo translates, is as universally popular as it is at - home and in all the Little Italics throughout the rest of the - world. Flattering imitations are made and named after it, as - follows:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="list of imitations of Caciocavallo cheese" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left">BULGARIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">GREECE:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kashcavallo</b> and <b>Caskcaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">HUNGARY:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Parenica</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">RUMANIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Pentele</b> and <b>Kascaval</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SERBIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Katschkawalj</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SYRIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Cashkavallo</b> - <!-- Page 21 --><a name="Page_21" - id="Page_21"></a></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">TRANSYLVANIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kascaval</b> (as in Rumania)</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">TURKEY:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Cascaval Penir</b></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">YUGOSLAVIA:</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>Kackavalj</b></td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its - popular name and to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It - is, however, curded from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, - and sometimes from water buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery - that the best of it, which comes from Sorrento, is called - <i>Cacio burro,</i> butter cheese. Slightly salty, with a spicy - tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for - grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian - pastes but on sweets.</p> - - <p>Different from the many grating cheeses made from little - balls of curd called <i>grana</i>, Caciocavallo is a <i>pasta - fileta</i>, or drawn-curd product. Because of this it is - sometimes drawn out in long thick threads and braided. It is a - cheese for skilled artists to make sculptures with, sometimes - horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and other fruits, even - as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and often worked - into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the horse's - head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob - on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a - time, on opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly - golden and rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the - more buttery.</p> - - <p>In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the - best comes from Sorrento, there is keen competition from - Abruzzi, Apulian Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't - spoil when shipped overseas.</p> - - <p>In his <i>Little Book of Cheese</i> Osbert Burdett - recommends the high, horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over - tobacco smoke after dinner:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me - that Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, - some pungency is necessary, and confidence suggests rather - Cacio which would survive anything, the monster said.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 22 --><a name="Page_22" - id="Page_22"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Camembert</b></p> - - <p>Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine - is labeled <i>Syndicat du Vrai Camembert</i>. The name in full - is <i>Syndicat des Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de - Normandie</i> and we agree that this is "a most useful - association for the defense of one of the best cheeses of - France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, - except perhaps by Brie.</p> - - <p>Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the - waitress who first served it to him in the tiny town of - Camembert. And there a statue stands today in the market place - to honor Marie Harel who made the first Camembert.</p> - - <p>Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, - pineapple, pear, French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie - and with oysters, Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" - months, and of these September is the best.</p> - - <p>Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the - <i>véritable</i> don't fall for a domestic imitation or - any West German abomination such as one dressed like a - valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled - "Camembert—Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, - chalky with youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and - decrepit.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Cheddar</b></p> - - <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i> - says:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale - coloured, mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a - hazelnut in flavour. The Cheddar principle pervades the - whole cheesemaking districts of America, Canada and New - Zealand, but no cheese imported into England can equal the - Cheddars of Somerset and the West of Scotland.</p> - </div> - - <p>Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding - first manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse - Cheddar, <!-- Page 23 --><a name="Page_23" - id="Page_23"></a>but in America we have practically none of - this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be ripened at least nine months - to a mellowness, and little of our American cheese gets as - much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote that it - "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, - according to magnitude) with any cheese in England."</p> - - <p>Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second - after Stilton, of course.</p> - - <p>In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of - family feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can - be kept for two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool - room and turned over every other day."</p> - - <p>But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... - I asked one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her - eyes twinkled: 'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'"</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Cheshire</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>A Cheshireman sailed into Spain<br /></span> - <span>To trade for merchandise;<br /></span> <span>When - he arrived from the main<br /></span> <span>A Spaniard - him espies.<br /></span> <span>Who said, "You English - rogue, look here!<br /></span> <span>What fruits and - spices fine<br /></span> <span>Our land produces twice - a year.<br /></span> <span>Thou has not such in - thine."<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Cheshireman ran to his hold<br /></span> - <span>And fetched a Cheshire cheese,<br /></span> - <span>And said, "Look here, you dog, - behold!<br /></span> <span>We have such fruits as - these.<br /></span> <span>Your fruits are ripe but - twice a year,<br /></span> <span>As you yourself do - say,<br /></span> <span>But such as I present you - here<br /></span> <span>Our land brings twice a - day."</span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="center">Anonymous</span> - </div> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 24 --><a name="Page_24" - id="Page_24"></a> - - <p>Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, - and far too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the - inn, of the chophouse, of the average English home, is a - libel on a thing which, when authentic, is worthy of great - honor. Cheshire, divinely commanded into existence as to - three parts to precede and as to one part to accompany - certain Tawny Ports and some Late-Bottled Ports, can be a - thing for which the British Navy ought to fire a salute on - the principle on which Colonel Brisson made his regiment - salute when passing the great Burgundian vineyard.</p> - - <p class="author">T. Earle Welby,<br /> - IN "THE DINNER KNELL"</p> - </div> - - <p>Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, - but the oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar - conquered Britain, and tradition is that the Romans built the - walled city of Chester to control the district where the - precious cheese was made. Chester on the River Dee was a - stronghold against the Roman invasion.</p> - - <p>It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan - times and waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the - Fleet Street Inn where White Cheshire was served "with radishes - or watercress or celery when in season," and Red Cheshire was - served toasted or stewed in a sort of Welsh Rabbit. (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_50">Chapter 5</a>.)</p> - - <p>The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan - Holland, in <i>Cheddar Gorge</i> suggests that "it was no doubt - a cheese of this sort, discovered and filched from the larder - of the Queen of Hearts, that accounted for the contented grin - on the face of the Cheshire Cat in Alice in Wonderland."</p> - - <p>All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Dans le Chester sec et rose</i><br /></span> - <span><i>A longues dents, l'Anglais - mord.</i><br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the Chester dry and pink<br /></span> - <span>The long teeth of the English sink.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 25 --><a name="Page_25" - id="Page_25"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Edam and Gouda</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Edam in Peace and War</i></p> - - <p>There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a - couple of men on board and brought three Holland cheeses, - cost 4d. a piece, excellent cheeses.</p> - - <p class="author">Pepys' <i>Diary</i>, March 2,1663</p> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral - Brown of the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he - used Holland cheese for cannon balls.</p> - - <p class="author"><i>The Harbinger</i> (Vermont), December - 11, 1847</p> - </div> - - <p>The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around - the world. Known as "red balls" in England and - <i>katzenkopf,</i> "cat's head," in Germany, they differ from - Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being round but flattish and - now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas.</p> - - <p>Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad - it is horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already - scalloped for the ultimate consumer to add port, and there are - crocks of Holland cheese potted with sauterne. Both Edam and - Gouda should be well aged to develop full-bodied quality, two - years being the accepted standard for Edam.</p> - - <p>The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed - (black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage - of Friesland and Noord Holland).</p> - - <p>The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and - Leyden, come from South Holland. Some are specially made for - the Jewish trade and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda - are eaten at mealtimes thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch - breakfast without one or the other on black bread with butter - and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're also boon - companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa.</p> - - <p>"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 26 --><a name="Page_26" - id="Page_26"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Emmentaler, Gruyère and Swiss</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>When the working woman<br /></span> <span>Takes - her midday lunch,<br /></span> <span>It is a piece of - Gruyère<br /></span> <span>Which for her takes - the place of roast.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkäse, grand - Gruyère from France, or lesser Swiss of the United - States, the shape, size and glisten of the eyes indicate the - stage of ripeness, skill of making and quality of flavor. They - must be uniform, roundish, about the size of a big cherry and, - most important of all, must glisten like the eye of a lass in - love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear.</p> - - <p>Gruyère does not see eye to eye with the big-holed - Swiss Saanen cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny - holes, and many of them; let us say it is freckled with - pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This variety is technically - called a <i>niszler</i>, while one without any holes at all is - "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles.</p> - - <p>Gruyère Trauben (Grape Gruyère) is aged in - Neuchâtel wine in Switzerland, although most - Gruyère has been made in France since its introduction - there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and another - is called Comté from its origin in - Franche-Comté.</p> - - <p>A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to - Italy where it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese - called Raper, and now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, - in fact, because of its piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable - quality, is simulated everywhere, even in Switzerland.</p> - - <p>Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as - Finland, we get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all - sad sorts, with all possible faults—from too many holes, - that make a flabby, wobbly cheese, to too few—cracked, - dried-up, collapsed <!-- Page 27 --><a name="Page_27" - id="Page_27"></a>or utterly ruined by molding inside. So it - will pay you to buy only the kind already marked genuine in - Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six years - to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever.</p> - - <p>Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in - cheese cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in - France), and it is said that the rank of a family is determined - by the age and quality of the cheese in its larder.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Feta and Casere</b></p> - - <p>The Greeks have a name for it—Feta. Their neighbors - call it Greek cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to - honey. The two together make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and - as blinding white as a plate of fresh Ricotta smothered with - sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by shipping the cheese - all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of milk, the milk - being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in brine, - this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat - sharp, but superbly spicy.</p> - - <p>When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk - dripping through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was - at the Staikos Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street - in Manhattan. We then compared Feta with thin wisps of its - grown-up brother, Casere. This gray and greasy, hard and - brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made us bleat for more - Feta.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <p>Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate - (including Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common - consent monarch of all other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. - In England, indeed, many epicures consider Gorgonzola greater - than Stilton, which is the highest praise any cheese can get - there. <!-- Page 28 --><a name="Page_28" - id="Page_28"></a>Like all great cheeses it has been widely - imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when - fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with - rich green veins running through. Very pungent and highly - flavored, it is eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad - dressings, like Roquefort.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b></p> - - <p>The name Hablé Crème Chantilly sounds French, - but the cheese is Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in - the imported package: "The overall characteristic is - indescribable and delightful freshness."</p> - - <p>This exclusive product of the Walk Gärd Creamery was - hailed by Sheila Hibben in <i>The New Yorker</i> of May 6, - 1950, as enthusiastically as Brillat-Savarin would have greeted - a new dish, or the Planetarium a new star:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely - suggest that the arrival of Crème Chantilly is a - historic event and that in reporting on it I feel something - of the responsibility that the contemporaries of Madame - Harel, the famous cheese-making lady of Normandy, must have - felt when they were passing judgment on the first - Camembert.</p> - </div> - - <p>Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage à la - crème made in Quebec had come anywhere near her - impression of the new Swedish triumph. She quotes the last word - from the makers themselves: "This is a very special product - that has never been made on this earth before," and speaks of - "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, "the - exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor - combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that - have come my way in a long time."</p> - - <p>And so say we—all of us.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 29 --><a name="Page_29" - id="Page_29"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Hand Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not - because we consider it great, but because it is usually - included among the eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of - others are based. It is named from having been molded into its - final shape by hand. Universally popular with Germanic races, - it is too strong for the others. To our mind, Hand cheese never - had anything that Allgäuer or Limburger hasn't improved - upon.</p> - - <p>It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of - beer and drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with - caraway seeds, the most natural spice for curds.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Limburger</b></p> - - <p>Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it - was brought over by German-American immigrants; but England - never took to it. This is eloquently expressed in the following - entry in the English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical - Cookery</i>:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently - offensive odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed - to partially decompose before pressing. It is very little - known in this country, and might be less so with advantage - to consumers.</p> - </div> - - <p>But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has - brought gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes - since it came to light in the province of Lüttich in - Belgium. It has been Americanized for almost a century and is - by now one of the very few cheeses successfully imitated here, - chiefly in New York and Wisconsin.</p> - - <p>Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion - in Green County, when the people rose in protest against the - Limburger caravan that was accustomed to park in the little - town <!-- Page 30 --><a name="Page_30" - id="Page_30"></a>of Monroe where it was marketed. They - threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump the - odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads - were left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The - Limburger was finally stored safely underground.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Livarot</b></p> - - <p>Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine - of them all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem - dedicated to all the great French cheeses, of which we give a - free translation:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>In the dog days<br /></span> <span>In its - overflowing dish<br /></span> <span>Livarot - gesticulates<br /></span> <span>Or weeps like a - child.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Münster</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>At the diplomatic banquet<br /></span> <span>One - must choose his piece.<br /></span> <span>All is - politics,<br /></span> <span>A cheese and a - flag.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>You annoy the Russians<br /></span> <span>If you - take Chester;<br /></span> <span>You irritate the - Prussians<br /></span> <span>In choosing - Münster.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Victor Meusy<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, - does not fare well in England. Although over here we consider - Münster far milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric - Weir in <i>When Madame Cooks</i> will have none of it:</p> - - <p><!-- Page 31 --><a name="Page_31" - id="Page_31"></a> I cannot think why this cheese was not - thrown from the aeroplanes during the war to spread panic - amongst enemy troops. It would have proved far more - efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill people - permanently.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Neufchâtel</b></p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>If the cream cheese be white<br /></span> - <span>Far fairer the hands that made them.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Arthur Hugh Clough<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Although originally from Normandy, Neufchâtel, like - Limburger, was so long ago welcomed to America and made so - splendidly at home here that we may consider it our very own. - All we have against it is that it has served as the model for - too many processed abominations.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano</b></p> - - <p>Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on - bread. But when well aged, let us say up to a century, it - becomes Rock of Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for - grating. It is easy to believe that the so-called "Spanish - cheese" used as a barricade by Americans in Nicaragua almost a - century ago was none other than the almost indestructible - Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy.</p> - - <p>The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. - days with the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers - not only for its energy value but as a convenient form of - rations, since every army travels on its stomach and can't go - faster than its impedimenta. The last notable mention of cheese - in war was the name of the <i>Monitor</i>: "A cheese box on a - raft."</p> - - <p>Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as - friable, sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups - such as <!-- Page 32 --><a name="Page_32" - id="Page_32"></a>onion and minestrone. It is brittle and - just off-white when well aged.</p> - - <p>Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both - Parmesan and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in - Argentina. Romano and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names - for the strong, medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that - sell for considerably less. Most of it is now shipped from - Sardinia. There are several different kinds: Pecorino Dolce - (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino Romano Cacio, which - relates it to Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p>Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of - Pecorino are soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., - in her "Letter from Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable - <i>Little Book of Cheese</i>, writes:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, - had provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread - and a slab of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any - "thou" for either) ... But that cheese was Paradise; and - the flask was emptied, and a wood dove cooing made you - think that the flask's contents were in a crystal goblet - instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and the cheese - broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Pont L'Evêque</b></p> - - <p>This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic - made since the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert - cheese whose excellence is brought out best by a sound claret - or tawny port.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Port-Salut</b> (<i>See</i> <b>Trappist</b>)</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Provolone</b></p> - - <p>Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as - Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchâtel and - such <!-- Page 33 --><a name="Page_33" - id="Page_33"></a>great ones did long before. But it has not - been successfully imitated here because the original is made - of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable in the Americas.</p> - - <p>With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is - put up in all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, - pears, bells, a regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of - sizes, up to a monumental hundred-pound bas-relief imported for - exhibition purposes by Phil Alpert.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Roquefort</b></p> - - <p>Homage to this <i>fromage!</i> Long hailed as <i>le roi</i> - Roquefort, it has filled books and booklets beyond count. By - the miracle of <i>Penicillium Roqueforti</i> a new cheese was - made. It is placed historically back around the eighth century - when Charlemagne was found picking out the green spots of - Persillé with the point of his knife, thinking them - decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, - recorded in their annals that when they regaled him with - Roquefort (because it was Friday and they had no fish) they - also made bold to tell him he was wasting the best part of the - cheese. So he tasted again, found the advice excellent and - liked it so well he ordered two <i>caisses</i> of it sent every - year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested that - it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with - blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening.</p> - - <p>Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from - mice and rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be - expected to send an escort of cats from their chalky caves to - guard them—even for Charlemagne. There is no telling how - many cats were mustered out in the caves, in those early days, - but a recent census put the number at five hundred. We can - readily imagine the head handler in the caves leading a night - inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster and a - regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese - also employ cats to patrol <!-- Page 34 --><a name="Page_34" - id="Page_34"></a>their storage caves, Roquefort holds the - record for number. An interesting point in this connection - is that as rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a - gnawed one is not thrown away but greatly prized.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese</b></p> - - <p>The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for - whey cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, - a kind of clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from - Switzerland in a hard, truncated cone wrapped in a piece of - paper that says:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> To be used grated only<br /> - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese<br /> - Made of skimmed milk and herbs</p> - - <p>To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? - Try the contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading - mixed with butter, excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, - spaghetti, potatoes, soup, etc. Can be used in place of any - other cheese. <i>Do not take too much, you might spoil the - flavor</i>.</p> - </div> - - <p>We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an - envelope, and to this day, six months later, the scent of - Sapsago clings 'round it still.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Stilton</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Honor for Cheeses</i></p> - - <p>Literary and munching circles in London are putting - quite a lot of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton - cheese. There is a Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir - John Squire at the head, and already the boys are - fighting.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 35 --><a name="Page_35" - id="Page_35"></a> One side, led by Sir John, is all for - a monument.</p> - - <p>This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton - itself, although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a - pretty effective cheese-shaped figure and call it - "Dolorosa."</p> - - <p>The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who - first introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group - showing Mrs. Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and - introducing it, while the Stilton curtsies.)</p> - - <p>T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a - monument, but wants to establish a Foundation for the - Preservation of Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this - plan would depend largely on the site selected for the - treasure house and the cost of obtaining a curator who - could, or would, give his whole time to the work.</p> - - <p>Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, - agrees with Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best - form.</p> - - <p>"I should like," he says, "something - irrelevant—gargoyles, perhaps."</p> - - <p>I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there.</p> - - <p>I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this - great movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube - Goldberg.</p> - - <p>If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be - established between England and America, although the - exchange, in the case of Stilton, would have to be all on - England's side.</p> - - <p>We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while - England furnishes the cheese.</p> - - <p>There is a very good precedent for such a bargain - between the two countries.</p> - - <p class="author">Robert Benchley, in<br /> - <i>After 1903—What?</i></p> - </div> - - <p>When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an - endless after-dinner conversation piece to which England points - with pride. For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton - Fadiman's introduction to this book.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 36 --><a name="Page_36" - id="Page_36"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Taleggio and Bel Paese</b></p> - - <p>When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported - Bel Paese some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to - America. But as the years went on and imitations were made in - many lands, Galbini deemed it wise to set up his own factory in - <i>our</i> beautiful country. However, the domestic Bel Paese - and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino just didn't have - that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the German copy - called Schönland, after the original, or the French Fleur - des Alpes.</p> - - <p>Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked - up the market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini - hit the jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the - sharpest, most sophisticated pungence of them all.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka</b></p> - - <p>In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. - Always of the elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du - Salut from the original home of the Trappist monks in their - chief French abbey, it is also set apart from the ordinary - Canadians under the name of Oka, from the Trappist monastery - there. It is made by Trappist monks all over the world, - according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist - Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in - Kentucky.</p> - - <p>This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You - can't go wrong if you look for the monastery name stamped on, - such as Harzé in Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, - Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, and so forth.</p> - - <p>Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without - benefit of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the - Lion Brand. It is one of the finest American cheeses in which - we have ever sunk a fang.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 37 --><a name="Page_37" - id="Page_37"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/037.gif" - width="450" - height="310" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Four</i> - </div> - - <h2>Native Americans</h2> - - <p><b>American Cheddars</b></p> - - <p>The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around - Plymouth by Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese - from the homeland but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof - of our ability to manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the - fact that by 1790 we were exporting it back to England.</p> - - <p>It was called Cheddar after the English original named for - the village of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it - made a new name for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the - section of New York State where it was first made best. - Herkimer still equals its several distinguished competitors, - Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, Pineapple, Sage, - Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn.</p> - - <p>The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, - Cheddar, while <!-- Page 38 --><a name="Page_38" - id="Page_38"></a> here at home it was popularly known as - yellow or store cheese from its prominent position in every - country store; also apple-pie cheese because of its affinity - for the all-American dessert.</p> - - <p>The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in - Rome, New York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer - County Cheddar already widely known, this established "New - York" as the preferred "store-boughten" cheese.</p> - - <p>An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer - Wooden Nutmeg Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting - book, <i>They Broke the Prairies</i>. A Yankee named Silvanus - Ferris, "the most successful dairyman of Herkimer County," in - the first decades of the 1800's teamed up with Robert Nesbit, - "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They bought from farmers in the - region and sold in New York City. And "according to the - business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to cheapen the - cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a bad - market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived - in a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, - the seller, unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the - market price, snapped up the offer.</p> - - <p>Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the - market, so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months - up to two years fetched higher prices. They were called "old," - such as Old Herkimer, Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old - California Jack.</p> - - <p>Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, - medium-cured, and cured or aged, commercially they are divided - into two and described as mild and sharp. The most popular are - named for their states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, - Ohio, Vermont and Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called - and named separately, Coon and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes - by its own name with no mention of Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey - Jack and Sage are seldom listed as Cheddars at all, although - they are basically that.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 39 --><a name="Page_39" - id="Page_39"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Brick</b></p> - - <p>Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world - gives America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals - say is too close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a - Cheddar under its crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet - Brick is no more distinguished than either of the hundred - percent Americans, and in our opinion is less worth bragging - about.</p> - - <p>It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for - sandwiches and melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic - but not rubbery, its taste sweetish, and it is full of little - round holes or eyes. All this has inspired enthusiasts to liken - it to Emmentaler. The most appropriate name for it has long - been "married man's Limburger." To make up for the mildness - caraway seed is sometimes added.</p> - - <p>About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge - County, Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese - made of whole cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, - stirred and cooked firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a - bottom and with slits in the sides to drain. When this is set - on the draining table a couple of bricks are also laid on the - cooked curd for pressure. It is this double use of bricks, for - shaping and for pressing, that has led to the confusion about - which came first in originating the name.</p> - - <p>The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three - days and they ripen slowly, taking up to two months.</p> - - <p>We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that - comes from Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Colorado Blackie Cheese</b></p> - - <p>A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on - our cheese map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind - and it resembles Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. - This <!-- Page 40 --><a name="Page_40" - id="Page_40"></a>is a proud new American product, proving - that although Papa Cheddar was born in England his American - kinfolk have developed independent and valuable characters - all on their own.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Coon Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at - a higher temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from - the growth of mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more - ordinary Cheddars to make them look like Coon, which always - brings a 10 percent premium above the general run.</p> - - <p>Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from - a host of admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in - Phineas Beck's <i>Kitchen</i>, who raised it to the par of - French immortals by calling it Fromage de Coon. Clementine used - it "with scintillating success in countless French recipes - which ended with the words <i>gratiner au four et servir tres - chaud</i>. She made <i>baguettes</i> of it by soaking sticks - three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in - lukewarm milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread - crumbs and browning them instantaneously in boiling oil."</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Herkimer County Cheese</b></p> - - <p>The standard method for making American Cheddar was - established in Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been - rigidly maintained down to this day. Made with rennet and a - bacterial "starter," the curd is cut and pressed to squeeze out - all of the whey and then aged in cylindrical forms for a year - or more.</p> - - <p>Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, - sharp and nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, - mouth-watering pale orange color when it is properly aged.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 41 --><a name="Page_41" - id="Page_41"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Isigny</b></p> - - <p>Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It - seems to be extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, - for it never meant to be anything more than another Camembert, - of which we have plenty of imitation.</p> - - <p>Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect - Isigny. The curd was carefully prepared according to an - original formula, washed and rubbed and set aside to come of - age. But when it did, alas, it was more like Limburger than - Camembert, and since good domestic Limburger was then a dime a - pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet in shape the newborn - resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. So they cut - it down and named it after the delicate French Creme - d'lsigny.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack</b></p> - - <p>Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California - county where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, - and only now takes its full name after sixty years of - popularity on the West Coast. Because it is little known in the - East and has to be shipped so far, it commands the top Cheddar - price.</p> - - <p>Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto - coloring. It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it - gets sharper with age and more expensive because of storage - costs.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Liederkranz</b></p> - - <p>No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and - so deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of - Song."</p> - - <p>Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young - delicatessen <!-- Page 42 --><a name="Page_42" - id="Page_42"></a> keeper in New York, tried to please some - bereft customers by making an imitation of Bismarck - Schlosskäse. This was imperative because the imported - German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and - Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz - singing society, didn't feel like singing without it. But - Emil's attempts at imitation only added indigestion to their - dejection, until one day—<i>fabelhaft!</i> One of - those cheese dream castles in Spain came true. He turned out - a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow little marvel - that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old - Schlosskäse. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized - Limburger, both a man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious - women adored.</p> - - <p>Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz - customers. It soon became as internationally known as tabasco - from Texas or Parisian Camembert which it slightly resembles. - Borden's bought out Frey in 1929 and they enjoy telling the - story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E Day in Paris, sent to his - family in Indiana, only a few miles from the factory at Van - Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was "the finest - cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, there - was Liederkranz.</p> - - <p>Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in - between two foreign immortals in the following recipe:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert cheese<br /> - 1 Liederkranz<br /> - ⅛ pound imported Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - ½ cup finely chopped olives<br /> - ¼ cup canned pimiento<br /> - A sprinkling of cayenne</p> - - <p>Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of - Camembert and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any - thick part off, or remove it all. Mash the soft creams - together with the Roquefort, butter and flour, using a - silver fork. Put the mix into - <!-- Page 43 --><a name="Page_43" - id="Page_43"></a> an enameled pan, for anything with a - metal surface will turn the cheese black in cooking.</p> - - <p>Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a - smooth, creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, - and mix in the olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle - well with cayenne and put into a pot to mellow for a few - days, or much longer.</p> - </div> - - <p>The name <i>Schnitzelbank</i> comes from "school bench," a - game. This snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party - and stein songs. It is also the affinity-spread with rye and - pumpernickel, and may be served in small sandwiches or on - crackers, celery and such, to make appetizing tidbits for - cocktails, tea, or cider.</p> - - <p>Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is - eaten best at room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If - kept in the refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of - hours before serving. Since it is a natural cheese mixture, - which has gone through no process or doping with preservative, - it will not keep more than two weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is - the sort of ideal the factory processors shoot at with their - olive-pimiento abominations. Once you've potted your own, - you'll find it gives the same thrill as garnishing your own - Liptauer.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b></p> - - <p>The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the - Mississippi, in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has - established a distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the - state. Although the Roquefort process of France is followed and - the cheese is inoculated in the same way by mold from bread, it - can never equal the genuine imported, marked with its red-sheep - brand, because the milk used in Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, - and the caves are sandstone instead of limestone. Yet this is - an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 44 --><a name="Page_44" - id="Page_44"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Pineapple</b></p> - - <p>Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its - flavor, although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is - noticeable near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate - through to the Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese - have tampered with the original, so today you can't be sure of - anything except getting a smaller size every year or two, at a - higher price. Originally six pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk - to nearly six ounces. The proper bright-orange, oiled and - shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly lemon.</p> - - <p>Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the - side-board under a silver bell also made to represent a - pineapple. You cut a top slice off the cheese, just as you - would off the fruit, and there was a rose-colored, - fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a special - silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was - put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept - the cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the - rind the shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some - salubrious cold Fondue or salad.</p> - - <p>Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked - harder, Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net - that makes diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, - simulating the sections of the fruit. It is a pioneer American - product with almost a century and a half of service since Lewis - M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in Litchfield County, - Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and made a - deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what - before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese.</p> - - <p>Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in - old England, also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the - hanging up of Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser - pattern of the four sustaining strings.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 45 --><a name="Page_45" - id="Page_45"></a> </p> - - <p><b>Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State</b></p> - - <p>The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called - originally, shows the several phases most cheeses have gone - through, from their simple, honest beginnings to - commercialization, and sometimes back to the real thing.</p> - - <p>The English <i>Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery</i> has an - early Sage recipe:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage - leaves and greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it - is given thus: Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage - leaves with an equal quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze - out the juice. Add this to the extract of rennet and stir - into the milk as much as your taste may deem sufficient. - Break the curd when it comes, salt it, fill the vat high - with it, press for a few hours, and then turn the cheese - every day.</p> - </div> - - <p><i>Fancy Cheese in America, lay</i> Charles A. Publow, - records the commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a - century or two later, in 1910:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar - variety. Its distinguishing features are a mottled green - color and a sage flavor. The usual method of manufacture is - as follows: One-third of the total amount of milk is placed - in a vat by itself and colored green by the addition of - eight to twelve ounces of commercial sage color to each - 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn leaves (unavailable in - England) or other substances are used for coloring, the - amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then made up by - the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the - whey the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, - however, to mix the curds at the time of milling, as a more - distinct color is secured. After milling, the sage extract - flavoring is sprayed over the curd with an atomizer. The - curd is then <!-- Page 46 --><a name="Page_46" - id="Page_46"></a>salted and pressed into the regular - Cheddar shapes and sizes.</p> - - <p>A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York - State College of Agriculture by simply dropping green - coloring, made from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon - the curd, after milling. An even green mottling is thus - easily secured without additional labor. Sage flavoring - extract is sprayed over the curd by an atomizer. One-half - ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient for a hundred - pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses.</p> - </div> - - <p>A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) - method:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at - present the cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild - sage because it has the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, - thujone, is diluted with water, 250 parts to one, and - either added to the milk or sprayed over the curds, - one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk.</p> - </div> - - <p>In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing - today, we wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this - reply:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best - native Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only - one factory making it and that is my friend, George - Crowley's. He makes a limited amount for my Vermont Country - Store. It is the fine old-time full cream cheese, flavored - with real sage.</p> - - <p>On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get - enough sage cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin - cheesemaker if he would make some. Said he would but - couldn't at that time—because the alfalfa wasn't - ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to do with sage - cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese with a - synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green."</p> - - <p>So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw - George Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We - don't use synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like - that."</p> - - <p>"<!-- Page 47 --><a name="Page_47" - id="Page_47"></a> Then what do you use, George?" I - inquired.</p> - - <p>"We use real sage."</p> - - <p>"Why?"</p> - - <p>"Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic - stuff."</p> - </div> - - <p>The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on - it:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to - full flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor - recalling smoked cheese, although not related in any way. - Mildly resinous like that Near East one packed in pine, - suggesting the well-saged dressing of a turkey. A round - mouthful of luscious mellowness, with a bouquet—a - snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just a - soupçon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of - herb to delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is - the <i>véritable vert</i>, green cheese—the - moon is made of it! <i>Vert véritable.</i> A general - favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for generations - of lusty crumblers.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese</b></p> - - <p>We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together - with some Vermont store cheese and some crackers.</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store - cheese—it's been in old country stores for - generations and we have been pioneers in spreading the word - about it. It is, of course, a natural aged cheese, no - processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made the - same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and - also has holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages - faster.</p> - - <p>Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth - century and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading - cheesemaking state in the Union? When I was a lad, every - town in Vermont had one or more cheese factories. Now there - are only two left—not counting any that make process. - Process isn't cheese!</p> - - <p><!-- Page 48 --><a name="Page_48" - id="Page_48"></a> The crackers are the old-time store - cracker—every Vermonter used to buy a big barrel - once a year to set in the buttery and eat. A classic - dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold milk, with - a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These - crackers are not sweet, not salt, and as such make a - good base for anything—swell with clam chowder, - also with toasted cheese....</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Tillamook</b></p> - - <p>It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to - record the story of Oregon's great Tillamook. <i>The Cheddar - Box</i>, by Dean Collins, comes neatly boxed and bound in - golden cloth stamped with a purple title, like the rind of a - real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled <i>Cheese Cheddar</i>, and - Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled Tillamook and - molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume I from - a noted <i>littérateur</i>, and never could get him to - come across with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from - a note on the flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an - excellent cheese, full cream and medium sharp, and a unique set - of books in which Volume II suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are - to be tasted, others to be swallowed, and some few to be chewed - and digested.'"</p> - - <p> </p> - - <p><b>Wisconsin Longhorn</b></p> - - <p>Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it - is only fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of - national standard, even though it's not nearly so fancy or - high-priced as some of the regional natives that can't approach - its enormous output. It's one of those all-purpose round - cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. We are specially - partial to it.</p> - - <p>Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all - of <!-- Page 49 --><a name="Page_49" - id="Page_49"></a>these thirty-seven states together, they - produce only about half as much as Wisconsin alone.</p> - - <p>Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional - competitors ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no - annatto coloring has been added, through Green Bay cheese to - Wisconsin Redskin and Martha Washington Aged, proudly set forth - by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who is said to have "won more - prizes in forty years than any ten cheesemakers put - together."</p> - - <p>To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie - cheese, the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, - recognizing the truth of Eugene Field's jingle:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Apple pie without cheese<br /></span> <span>Is - like a kiss without a squeeze.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made - legal and the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. - It's still in force:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>Butter and cheese to be served.</i> Every person, - firm or corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or - restaurant shall serve with each meal for which a charge of - twenty-five cents or more is made, at least two-thirds of - an ounce of Wisconsin butter and two-thirds of an ounce of - Wisconsin cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces - so much Swiss that the state is sometimes called - Swissconsin.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 50 --><a name="Page_50" - id="Page_50"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/050.gif" - width="340" - height="350" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Five</i> - </div> - - <h2>Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits</h2> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which - is even now continually presenting itself to my - recollection, with all its associated train of pipes, - egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, metaphysics and poetry.</p> - - <p class="author">Charles Lamb,<br /> - IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE</p> - </div> - - <p>Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: - "First catch your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off - with "First catch your Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to - smuggle in formerly forbidden <i>fromages</i> such as - Gruyère, Neufchâtel, Parmesan, and mixtures - thereof. We run the gamut <!-- Page 51 --><a name="Page_51" - id="Page_51"></a> of personal preferences in selecting the - Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or - store cheese, to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it - is still Cheddar, no matter how you slice it.</p> - - <p>Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of - all-American trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, - succotash and maybe marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, - tabasco and sundry bottled red devils from the grocery store, - to add pep and piquance to the traditional cayenne and black - pepper. This results in Rabbits that are out of focus, out of - order and out of this world.</p> - - <p>Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is - left out by braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave - it. And, in these degenerate days, when it comes to - substitutions for the original beer or stale pale ale, we find - the gratings of great Cheddars wet down with mere California - sherry or even ginger ale—yet so far, thank goodness, no - Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum Turn - Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream.</p> - - <p>In view of all this, we can only look to the standard - cookbooks for salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, - our thoughtful mothers, wives and sweethearts who have saved - the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If it weren't for these Fanny - Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal Welsh Rabbit would be - a lost art—lost in sporting male attempts to improve upon - the original.</p> - - <p>The girls are still polite about the whole thing and - protectively pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to - "Rarebit" in their culinary guides. We have heard that once a - club of ladies in high society tried to high-pressure the - publishers of Mr. Webster's dictionary to change the old - spelling in their favor. Yet there is a lot to be said for this - more genteel and appetizing rendering of the word, for the - Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of - cheesemongery, male or female.</p> - - <p>Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets - down more than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of - Rabbits: No. 1, <!-- Page 52 --><a name="Page_52" - id="Page_52"></a> the wild male type made with beer, and No. - 2, the mild female made with milk. Yet now that the chafing - dish has come back to stay, there's a flurry in the Rabbit - warren and the new cooking encyclopedias give up to a dozen - variants. Actually there are easily half a gross of valid - ones in current esteem.</p> - - <p>The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid - ingredient, but both the beer and the milk are used only one - way—warm, or anyway at room temperature. And again for - the two, there is but one traditional cheese—Cheddar, - ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This is also - called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin - Longhorn, mouse, and even rat.</p> - - <p>The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes - dozens of varieties under different names, regional or - commercial. These are easily identified as - sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><b>sight:</b> Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's - one of those round cheeses that also tastes round in the - mouth.</p> - - <p><b>hearing:</b> By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a - melon-picker, can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready - for the Rabbit. When you hear your dealer say, "It's six - months old or more," enough said.</p> - - <p><b>smell:</b> A scent as fresh as that of the daisies - and herbs the mother milk cow munched "will hang round it - still." Also a slight beery savor.</p> - - <p><b>touch:</b> Crumbly—a caress to the fingers.</p> - - <p><b>taste:</b> The quintessence of this fivefold test. - Just cuddle a crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the - taste buds it's prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's - proof it will melt in the pan.</p> - </div> - - <p>Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for - the No. 2 temperance alternative) we must point out that beer - has a <!-- Page 53 --><a name="Page_53" - id="Page_53"></a>special affinity for Cheddar. The French - have clearly established this in their names for Welsh - Rabbit, <i>Fromage Fondue à la Bière</i> and - <i>Fondue à l'Anglaise</i>.</p> - - <p>To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may - have a preference all his own, for here the question comes up - of how it melts best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, - chop, cut, scrape or crumble it in the fingers? This will vary - according to one's temperament and the condition of the cheese. - Generally, for best results it is coarsely grated. When it - comes to making all this into a rare bit of Rabbit there - is:</p> - - <p><b>The One and Only Method</b></p> - - <p>Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding - aluminum and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering - water in the lower one, but don't let the water boil up or - touch the top pan.</p> - - <p>Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of - butter or margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly - grated cheese, usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with - one-half cup of liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't - necessary for a cheese that should melt by itself.)</p> - - <p>The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together - and kept from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction - only, over an even heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, - sterling silver or porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft - metal—the taste may come off to taint the job.</p> - - <p>Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and - add it gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let - it come to the bubbling point, and never let it boil.</p> - - <p>Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will - take two or three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same - direction without an instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or - more, until the Rabbit is smooth. The consistency and velvety - <!-- Page 54 --><a name="Page_54" - id="Page_54"></a>smoothness depend a good deal on whether or - not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added.</p> - - <p>The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle - the top with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any - case set it forth as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast - hellishly hot, whether it's browned or buttered on one side or - both.</p> - - <p>Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name - was Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." - Something very similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to - cool down—when it's cold it's cold all over, and you - can't resuscitate it by heating.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - BASIC WELSH RABBIT - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 1 (with beer)</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 cups grated old Cheddar<br /> - ½ teaspoon English dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with<br /> - ½ cup light beer or ale<br /> - 4 slices hot buttered toast</p> - - <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, - stirring steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon - in one direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt - your rhythmic stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of - the beer-and-egg mixture until it's all used up.</p> - - <p>It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve - the essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick - it out as smooth as velvet.</p> - - <p>Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled - Rabbit is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and - the best of cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting - stringy or rubbery. <!-- Page 55 --><a name="Page_55" - id="Page_55"></a> Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, - freshly buttered toast and serve instantly on hot - plates.</p> - </div> - - <p>Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and - some aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side - with cold butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot - plate, buttered side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous - untoasted side so it can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady - Llanover's recipe, which appears on page 52 of this book.)</p> - - <p>Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, - there is now no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, - rolls, muffins, buns, croutons and crackers, to infinity.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>No. 2 (with milk)</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For a rich milk Rabbit use ½ cup thin cream, - evaporated milk,<br /> - whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. - Then, to<br /> - keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or - leave<br /> - it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, - the<br /> - use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our - feeling is<br /> - that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left - out.</p> - </div> - - <p>Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and - more cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against - stringiness. When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that - a teaspoon or so of cornstarch generally takes its place.</p> - - <p>Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and - stirring, so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience - and rhythm. As a rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is - almost melted, and speed of stirring slows when the eggs and - last ingredients go in.</p> - - <p>Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps - up the flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using - one-half teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes - to pepper you are fancy-free. As both black and white - <!-- Page 56 --><a name="Page_56" - id="Page_56"></a>pepper are now held in almost equal esteem, - you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do the - grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. - Tabasco sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but - some addicts can't leave it out any more than they can swear - off the Worcestershire.</p> - - <p>The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that - goes for milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So - let us consider the compromise of our old friend Frederick - Philip Stieff, the Baltimore <i>homme de bouche</i>, as he set - it forth for us years ago in <i>10,000 Snacks</i>: "The idea of - cooking a Rabbit with beer is an exploded and dangerous theory. - Tap your keg or open your case of ale or beer and serve - <i>with</i>, not in your Rabbit."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Stieff - Recipe</b> BASIC MILK RABBIT</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>completely surrounded by a lake of malt - beverages</i>)</p> - - <p>2 cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - 3 heaping tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 1 heaping tablespoon mustard<br /> - 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce<br /> - Pepper, salt and paprika to taste—then add more of - each.</p> - - <p>Grease well with butter the interior of your double - boiler so that no hard particles of cheese will form in the - mixture later and contribute undesirable lumps.</p> - - <p>Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add - butter and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should - be indulged in until Rabbit is ready for serving.</p> - - <p>Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, - pepper, salt and paprika. These should be beaten until - light and then slowly poured into the double boiler. - Nothing now remains to be done except to stir and cook down - to proper consistency over a fairly slow flame. The finale - has not arrived until you can drip the rabbit from the - spoon and spell the word <i>finis</i> on the surface. - <!-- Page 57 --><a name="Page_57" - id="Page_57"></a> Pour over two pieces of toast per - plate and send anyone home who does not attack it at - once.</p> - - <p>This is sufficient for six gourmets or four - gourmands.</p> - </div> - - <p><i>Nota bene</i>: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should - never be of the consistency whereby it may be used to tie up - bundles, nor yet should it bounce if inadvertently dropped on - the kitchen floor.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and - cow's milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so - much as to drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread - less than ¼ inch thick, to be quite crisp, and - spread it very thinly with fresh, cold butter on the - toasted side. (It must not be saturated.) Lay the toasted - cheese upon the untoasted bread side and serve immediately - on a very hot plate. The butter on the toast can, of - course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten without - butter.)</p> - </div> - - <p>From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen - still call Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover - goes on to point out that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and - the Melted or Stewed Buck Rabbit of England (which has become - our American standard) are as different in the making as the - regional cheeses used in them, and she says that while doctors - prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for invalids, the - stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to strong - digestions."</p> - - <p>English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese - of Wales and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent - "threads of unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments - (that may be pulled from its tough and tenacious - substance)."</p> - - <p>Yet not all of the references are complimentary.</p> - - <p>Thus Shakespeare in <i>King Lear</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 58 --><a name="Page_58" - id="Page_58"></a> <span>Look, look a - mouse!<br /></span> <span>Peace, peace;—this - piece of toasted cheese will do it.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>And Sydney Smith's:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and - hard salted meat has led to suicide.</p> - </div> - - <p>But Rhys Davis in <i>My Wales</i> makes up for such - rudenesses:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>The Welsh Enter Heaven</i></p> - - <p>The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth - of good singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear - excellent singing outside the walls. Why are not those - singers here with me?"</p> - - <p>St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come - in; they say they are happy enough outside, playing with a - ball and boxing and singing such songs as '<i>Suspan - Fach</i>'"</p> - - <p>The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach - and Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown."</p> - - <p>St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands - of the Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, - St. Peter went to consult with St. David, who, with a - smile, was reading the works of Caradoc Evans.</p> - - <p>St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just - inside the gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in - front of it" This St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the - sizzling, browning cheese was wafted over the walls and, - with loud shouts, a great concourse of the Welsh came - sprinting in. When sufficient were inside to make up a male - voice choir of a hundred, St Peter slammed the gates. - However, it is said that these are the only Welsh in - Heaven.</p> - </div> - - <p>And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice - grow and grow to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only - strawberry jam but toasted cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 59 --><a name="Page_59" - id="Page_59"></a> Then there's the frightening nursery - rhyme:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Irishman loved usquebaugh,<br /></span> - <span class="i2">The Scot loved ale called - Bluecap.<br /></span> <span>The Welshman, he loved - toasted cheese,<br /></span> <span class="i2">And made - his mouth like a mousetrap.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The Irishman was drowned in - usquebaugh,<br /></span> <span class="i2">The Scot was - drowned in ale,<br /></span> <span>The Welshman he near - swallowed a mouse<br /></span> <span class="i2">But he - pulled it out by the tail.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, - this tune in <i>Merry Wives of Windsor</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted - cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English - with Dr. William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen - enlivened the <i>Blackwoods Magazine</i> era with <i>Ten - Tales</i>:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dr. Maginn's Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for - supper. It is the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy - eating. I like it best in the genuine Welsh way, - however—that is, the toasted bread buttered on both - sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef with - mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire <i>thoroughly</i> saturated, - while, in the process of toasting, with genuine porter, - black pepper, and shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the - assertion that this is not a heavy supper for a man who has - been busy all day till dinner in reading, writing, walking - or riding—who has occupied himself between dinner and - supper in the discussion of a bottle or two of sound wine, - or any equivalent—and who proposes to swallow at - least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 60 --><a name="Page_60" - id="Page_60"></a> The popularity of this has come down to us - in the succinct summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no - master."</p> - - <p>The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper - sandwich was served, a century and a half ago; for it was - served as a savory to sum up and help digest a dinner, in this - form:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>After-Dinner Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides - and soak to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of - sharp old cheese in butter in an iron skillet, with an - added spot of beer and dry English mustard. Stir steadily - with a wooden spoon and, when velvety, serve a-sizzle on - piping hot beer-soaked toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy - dish of Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in - Elizabethan London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also - called a Buck Rabbit, was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese - on Fleet Street, where Dr. Johnson later presided. And it must - have been the pick of the town back in the days when barrooms - still had sawdust on the floor, for the learned Doctor endorsed - old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: "There is nothing - which has been contrived by man by which so much happiness is - produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as may be - judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to - "a baby's ear dropped in sawdust."</p> - - <p>Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the - world's first Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't - have to look far for on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of - letters at "The Cheese," as it was affectionately called. To a - man they sang praises for that piping hot dish of preserved and - beatified milk.</p> - - <p>Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester - of <i>Punch</i>, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to - the memory of Lovelace:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 61 --><a name="Page_61" - id="Page_61"></a> <span>Champagne will not a - dinner make,<br /></span> <span class="i2">Nor - caviar a meal<br /></span> <span>Men gluttonous - and rich may take<br /></span> - <span class="i2">Those till they make them - ill<br /></span> <span class="i4">If I've potatoes - to my chop,<br /></span> <span class="i4">And - after chop have cheese,<br /></span> - <span class="i4">Angels in Pond and Spiers's - shop<br /></span> <span class="i4">Know no such - luxuries.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a - reasonable substitute. The base of this is what was once - quaintly called a "hot-water bath." This was a sort of - miniature wash boiler just big enough to fit in snugly half a - dozen individual tins, made squarish and standing high enough - above the bath water to keep any of it from getting into the - stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since such a - tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of - fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or - even small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler - or chafing dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the - "cheese stewer" in stainless steel, silver or glass.</p> - - <p>In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, - "bubbling and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding - that's still famous. Although down the centuries the recipe has - been kept secret, the identifiable ingredients have been - itemized as follows: "Tender steak, savory oyster, seductive - kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent pepper and - delicate paste"—not to mention mushrooms. And after the - second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, - bitter, or the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a - dented pewter pot, "the stewed Cheshire cheese."</p> - - <p>Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by - tradition and appetite from the time when Charles II aled and - regaled Nell Gwyn at "The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to - have sampled this "kind of a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served - piping hot in the square shallow tins in which it is cooked and - garnished with sippets of delicately colored toast."</p> - - <p><!-- Page 62 --><a name="Page_62" - id="Page_62"></a> Among early records is this report of - Addison's in <i>The Spectator</i> of September 25,1711:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about - midnight, when the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. - He that yawns widest, and at the same time so naturally as - to produce the most yawns amongst his spectators, carries - home the cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of - Simpson's in the Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest - that drew crowds to his fashionable eating and drinking place. - He would set forth a huge portion of cheese and wager champagne - and cigars for the house that no one present could correctly - estimate the weight, height and girth of it.</p> - - <p>As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson - to "The Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met - there, showed that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was - tuppence, and that this was also the amount of the usual - tip.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ye Original Recipe</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ ounces butter<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - 1½ cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, - snappier, richer,<br /> - and more brightly colored than its first cousin, - Cheddar)</p> - - <p>Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese - and let it stew.</p> - - <p>You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual - tin, or pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top - under a blistering salamander.</p> - - <p>The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can - brand your own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of - your own Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, - like the stew tin, and about the size of a piece of - toast</p> - </div> - - <p>It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, - but not lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were - washed down <!-- Page 63 --><a name="Page_63" - id="Page_63"></a>in tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, - stout, and 'arf and 'arf.</p> - - <p>This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of - Johnson's time supped while they smoked their church wardens, - received its highest praise from an American newspaper woman - who rhapsodized in 1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin - shaving of crisp, golden toast in hot silver saucers—so - hot that the cheese was the substance of thick cream, the - flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries commingled."</p> - - <p>This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses - hold a trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched - the milk. Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyère, - Parmesan wafts the scent of Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of - England is perfumed with the petals of rose, violet, marigold - and jasmine.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oven Rabbit</b> (FROM AN OLD - RECIPE)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Chop small ½ pound of cooking cheese. Put it, - with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, in a little - saucepan, and as the butter melts and the cheese gets warm, - mash them together,</p> - - <p>When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, ½ teacupful of - ale, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden - spoon one way only, until it is creamy, but do not let it - boil, for that would spoil it. Place some slices of - buttered toast on a dish, pour the Rarebit upon them, and - set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before serving.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yorkshire Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>(originally called Gherkin Buck, from a pioneer - recipe</i>)</p> - - <p>Put into a saucepan ½ pound of cheese, sprinkle - with pepper (black, of course) to taste, pour over ½ - teacup of ale, and convert the whole into a smooth, creamy - mass, over the fire, stirring continually, for about 10 - minutes.</p> - - <p>In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes - altogether is the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot - toast, place a piece of broiled bacon on the top of each - and serve as hot as possible.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 64 --><a name="Page_64" - id="Page_64"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer - (No. 1) plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, - gave it its shining name a couple of centuries ago. - Nowadays some chafing dish show-offs try to gild the Golden - Buck with dashes of ginger and spice.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Golden Buck II</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon - strips.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Venerable Yorkshire - Buck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Spread ½-inch slices of bread with mustard and - brown in hot oven. Then moisten each slice with ½ - glass of ale, lay on top a slice of cheese ¼-inch - thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of that. Put back in - oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon crisp, and - serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale.</p> - </div> - - <p>Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Yale College Welsh Rabbit</b> - (MORIARTY'S)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 jigger of beer<br /> - ¼ teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ¼ teaspoon mustard<br /> - 1½ cups grated or shaved cheese<br /> - More beer</p> - - <p>Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on - the seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, - moistening from time to time with more beer, a pony or two - at a time.</p> - - <p>When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this - amount) and serve with still more beer.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 65 --><a name="Page_65" - id="Page_65"></a> There are two schools of postgraduate - Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, with beer both in the Rabbit - and with it; and the other featured in the Stieff Recipe, - which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but taps a keg - to drink with it.</p> - - <p>The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered - by the use of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is - often used today and is thought more sophisticated by some than - the red cayenne of Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish - Rabbit, which is precisely the same as our Basic Recipe No. - 1.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Border-hopping Bunny, or - Frijole Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ tablespoons butter<br /> - 1½ tablespoons chopped onion<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both<br /> - 1½ teaspoon chili powder<br /> - 1 small can kidney beans, drained<br /> - 1½ tablespoons catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire<br /> - Salt<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili - powder; add kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the - cheese until melted.</p> - - <p>Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or - crackers, toasted and buttered.</p> - </div> - - <p>In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular - modern ones are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in - from everywhere, from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all - kinds of quirks, down to mixing in some dried beef, and there - is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit for reducers, made with farmer - cheese and skimmed milk.</p> - - <p>Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the - great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery - and more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. - The following is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, - since it <!-- Page 66 --><a name="Page_66" - id="Page_66"></a>has had a successful run through a score of - the best modern cookbooks, with only slight personal changes - to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ¾ cup thin cream or evaporated milk<br /> - ¾ cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to - remove seeds<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when - this white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato - sprinkled with soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding - cheese and seasonings, and when cooked enough, stir in the - eggs to make a creamy texture, smooth as silk. Serve on - buttered whole wheat or graham bread for a change.</p> - </div> - - <p>Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a - tablespoon of bicarbonate of potash."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>South African Tomato - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is the same as above, except that ½ teaspoon - of sugar is used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is - poured over baked pastry cut into squares and sprinkled - with parsley, chopped fine, put in the oven and served - immediately.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum - Ditty, etc.</b> (OLD BOSTON STYLE)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 onion, minced<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 big pinch of pepper<br /> - 2 cups cooked tomatoes<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> - 3 cups grated store cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - <!-- Page 67 --><a name="Page_67" - id="Page_67"></a></p> - - <p>Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add - tomatoes with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. - Don't let it boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the - pan until it melts. Then stir in egg gently and serve very - hot</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Soup Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and - egg slowly, season and serve hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, - housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery - Rabbit if you use a can of celery soup in place of the - tomato.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1½ cups - cooked tomatoes and add ½ cup of mashed boiled - onions.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 small onion, minced<br /> - 1 small green pepper, minced<br /> - 1 can tomato soup<br /> - ¾ cup milk<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 jigger sherry<br /> - Crackers</p> - - <p>Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to - retain its flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until - it's about ⅓ full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over - them.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 68 --><a name="Page_68" - id="Page_68"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blushing Bunny</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum - Tum Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little - rosier with a lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and - the paprika cooked in from the start, of course.</p> - </div> - - <p>Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for - dishes, like Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble - and Squeak <i>(Bubblum Squeakum</i>), and Toad in the Hole.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Scotch Woodcock</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum - Tiddy, but before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in - 2 heaping tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the - buttered toast by laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Woodchuck</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups tomato purée<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - 1 tablespoon brown sugar<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly - melted stir in the egg and, when almost cooked, add - seasonings without ever interrupting the stirring. Pour - over hot toasted crackers or bread.</p> - </div> - - <p>No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar - was named after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of - the Scotch Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's - sweetened with brown sugar.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Running Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, First Annual - Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937</i>) - <!-- Page 69 --><a name="Page_69" - id="Page_69"></a></p> - - <p>Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and - melt in saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add - Worcestershire sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>This running cony can be poured over toast like any other - Rabbit, or over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry - Rum Tum Tiddy, or served like Fondue, in the original cooking - bowl or pan, with the spoon kept moving in it in one direction - only and the Rabbit following the spoon, like a greyhound - following the stuffed rabbit at the dog races.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mexican Chilaly</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1½ tablespoons - chopped onion<br /> - 1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without - seeds<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¾ teaspoon salt<br /> - Dash of cayenne<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - 2 tablespoons canned tomato juice<br /> - Water cress</p> - - <p>Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp - and cook 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and - stirring steadily as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten - the egg with the tomato juice and stir in until the Rabbit - is thick and velvety.</p> - - <p>Serve on toast and dress with water cress.</p> - </div> - - <p>This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum - Tiddy in spite of the centuries' difference in age.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs - to make it more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve - it hot over cold slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on - hot buttered toast, to make it extra eggy.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 70 --><a name="Page_70" - id="Page_70"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes ½-inch thick, - season with salt, pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot - both sides with all the butter that won't slip off.</p> - - <p>Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove - and broil on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the - usual toast and pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is - made according to either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.)</p> - - <p>Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a - touch of horseradish help.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Tomato and Onion - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice ¼-inch thick an equal number of tomato and - onion rings. Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots - of butter. Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked - remove and broil lightly.</p> - - <p>On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the - tomato ones and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain - Grilled Tomato recipe above.</p> - </div> - - <p>For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion - Rabbit.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>The Devil's Own</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>(<i>a fresh tomato variant</i>)</p> - - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - A pinch of cayenne<br /> - A dash of tabasco sauce<br /> - 2 tablespoons chili sauce<br /> - ½ cup ale or beer<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Sauté tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 - tablespoon butter. Keep warm on hot platter while you make - the toast and a Basic <!-- Page 71 --><a name="Page_71" - id="Page_71"></a> Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot - seasonings listed above. Put hot tomato slices on hot - toast on hot plates; pour the hot mixture over.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dried Beef or Chipped Beef - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded<br /> - ¼ pound dried beef, shredded<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ teaspoon pepper<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until - mixed well, then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated - cheese until smooth and creamy. Serve on toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called - both dried beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, - <i>tasajo</i> on the other side, and <i>xarque</i> when you get - all the way down to Brazil.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Kansas Jack Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup cream-style corn<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and - season to taste. Serve on hot buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must - have been easier to make on Baron Münchhausen's "Island of - Cheese," where the cornstalks produced loaves of bread, - ready-made, instead of ears, and were no doubt crossed with - long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits quite as - miraculous.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 72 --><a name="Page_72" - id="Page_72"></a> After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions - and then green peppers or canned pimientos as vegetable - ingredients in modern, Americanized Rabbits. And after that, - corn, as in the following recipe which appeals to all - Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has - everything.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Latin-American Corn - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 green pepper, chopped<br /> - 1 large onion, chopped<br /> - ½ cup condensed tomato soup<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - ¼ teaspoon black pepper<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - 1 cup canned corn<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, - cover and cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add - cheese with seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the - corn, and when thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the - egg with a little of the liquid, stir in until thickened - and then pour over hot toast or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Mushroom-Tomato - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced - fresh mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting - over boiling water 2 cups of grated cheese with ½ - teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily - and, when partially melted, stir in a can of condensed - tomato soup, previously heated. Then add the fried - mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot toast - or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Celery and Onion - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup chopped hearts of celery<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 1½ cups grated sharp cheese<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - <!-- Page 73 --><a name="Page_73" - id="Page_73"></a></p> - - <p>In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. - Meanwhile, melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir - steadily. When nearly done stir the celery and onion in - gradually, until smooth and creamy.</p> - - <p>Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or - under the grill.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Asparagus Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced - asparagus tops for the celery and onion.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Oyster Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 dozen oysters and their liquor<br /> - 1 teaspoon butter<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - 1 large pinch of salt<br /> - 1 small pinch of cayenne<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm - while you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is - melted add the eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep - stirring. When the Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, - drop in the warm oysters to heat a little more, and serve - on hot buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sea-food Rabbits</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, - abalone, squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or - crawls on the bottom of the ocean)</i></p> - - <p>Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or - canned sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make - according to Oyster Rabbit recipe above.</p> - - <p>Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, - mixed according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit - with horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 74 --><a name="Page_74" - id="Page_74"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>"Bouquet of the Sea" - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush - bouquet of as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, - cod, salmon, etc.) as can be sardined together in the - whirlpool of melted cheese in the chafing dish. They also - accent it with tidbits of sea food as above.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or - Dried</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the - alewife to the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan - haddie, mackerel, cod, and so on, can be stirred in to make - a basic Rabbit more tasty. Happy combinations are hit upon - in mixing leftovers of several kinds by the cupful. So the - odd old cookbook direction, "Add a cup of fish," takes on - new meaning.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Grilled Sardine - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, - boned, halved and grilled, on buttered toast.</p> - - <p>Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as - succulent a grilled Rabbit.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roe Rabbits</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other - fish, grill on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit - over. Although shad roe is esteemed the finest, there are - many other sapid ones of salmon, herring, flounder, cod, - etc.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Sardine Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in - place of the egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of - sardines, skinned, boned and flaked.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 75 --><a name="Page_75" - id="Page_75"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Anchovy Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East - Indian chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, - spread toast thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and - pour the Rabbit over.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked sturgeon, whiting, - eel, smoked salmon, and the like</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and - all of them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a - Basic Rabbit over the fish.</p> - - <p>The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a - thin slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked - sturgeon.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Smoked Cheddar Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose - palates crave the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic - Rabbit made with smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, - but unsmoked, Cheddar. We use a two-year-old that Phil - Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, brings down from Canada and has - specially smoked in the same savory room where sturgeon is - getting the works. So his Cheddar absorbs the de luxe - flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and is sold for a - fraction of that.</p> - - <p>And just in case you are fishing around for something - extra special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned - Bombay ducks, those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian - fish.</p> - - <p>Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky - Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">soaked with</span><br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cayenne<br /> - Toasted crackers<br /> - <!-- Page 76 --><a name="Page_76" - id="Page_76"></a></p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and - seasonings. When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg - to thicken the mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry - or buttered, for contrast with the bread.</p> - - <p>Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a - cup of catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what - should be a white monkey.</p> - - <p>There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which - extend all the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked - Rabbit and consisting of alternate layers of stale bread - crumbs and grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate - three-layer Rabbit is moistened with eggs beaten up with - milk, and seasoned with salt and paprika.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Crumby Tomato Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 teaspoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup soft bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup tomato soup<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the - tomato soup and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring - until velvety. Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to - the bread crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gherkin or Irish - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup milk (or beer)<br /> - A dash of vinegar<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - ½ cup chopped gherkin pickles</p> - - <p>Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and - seasonings. Keep stirring until smooth, then add the - pickles and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p>This may have been called Irish after the green of the - pickle.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 77 --><a name="Page_77" - id="Page_77"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dutch Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy - skillet with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a - splash of beer.</p> - - <p>Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or - ale and pour the Rabbit over them.</p> - - <p>The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer - and delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead.</p> - </div> - - <p>Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in - the use of prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of - things the hard way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with - water before every meal, while the Germans and French bottle - theirs, as we do.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pumpernickel Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This German deviation is made exactly the same as the - Dutch Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in - color. Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in - heated dark beer (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese - melted in the skillet is also stirred up with brunette - beer.</p> - </div> - - <p>Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the - two to commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or - black pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and - the Cheddar is noted for its beery smell, there is further - affinity here. An old English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread - and cheese are the two targets against death."</p> - - <p>By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been - coined when Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. - Contemptuously he spat it out with: "This would be good for my - horse, Nicole." "<i>Bon pour Nicole</i>" in French.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 78 --><a name="Page_78" - id="Page_78"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gruyère Welsh Rabbit - <i>au gratin</i></b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them - lightly, lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching - slice of imported Gruyère ⅜-inch thick. Pepper - to taste and cover with bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 - minutes and rush to the ultimate consumer.</p> - </div> - - <p>To our American ears anything <i>au gratin</i> suggests - "with cheese," so this Rabbit <i>au gratin</i> may sound - redundant. To a Frenchman, however, it means a dish covered - with bread crumbs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup white wine, preferably - Neufchâtel<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - ½ saltspoon paprika<br /> - 2 egg yolks</p> - - <p>Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until - it melts, then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at - least 3 more minutes until smooth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sherry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated cheese<br /> - ½ cup cream or evaporated milk<br /> - ½ cup sherry<br /> - ¼ teaspoon English mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce<br /> - A dash of paprika</p> - - <p>Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of - butter, and when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep - stirring until almost all of the cheese is melted, then add - sherry. When smooth <!-- Page 79 --><a name="Page_79" - id="Page_79"></a> and creamy, stir in the mustard and - Worcestershire sauce, and after pouring over buttered - toast dash with paprika for color.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish Sherry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 bouillon cube, mashed<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 1½ cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 jigger sherry</p> - - <p>Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in - the cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 - minutes, and when well-blended stir in the sherry and serve - on hot, buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pink Poodle</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon chopped onion<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - 1 jigger California claret<br /> - 1 cup cream of tomato soup<br /> - A pinch of soda<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 teaspoon paprika<br /> - A dash of powdered cloves<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in - flour, wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir - in cheese slowly until melted and finish off by thickening - with the egg and stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve - on crisp, buttered toast with a dry red wine.</p> - </div> - - <p>Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss - ones with Gruyère in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly - drunk with anything from a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But - for most of us, a deep draught of beer or ale goes best with an - even deeper draught of the mellow scent of a Cheddar - golden-yellow.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 80 --><a name="Page_80" - id="Page_80"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Savory Eggy Dry - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Gruyère<br /> - 4 eggs, well-beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - Mustard</p> - - <p>Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, - stirring steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. - Season and pour over dry toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up - for any lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the - sweets to finish a fine meal in some old-fashioned English - homes and hostelries.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is - more scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply - scramble a half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper - and cayenne, and just before the finish work in the cheese - until smooth and serve on crackers—water crackers for - a change.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Reducing Rarebit</b> (Tomato - Rarebit)<a name="FNanchor_A_1" - id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" - class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving.</p> - - <p>½ pound farmer cheese<br /> - 2 eggs<br /> - 1 level tablespoon powdered milk<br /> - 1 level teaspoon baking powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder<br /> - 4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or<br /> - 2 tomatoes, quartered<br /> - 1 teaspoon caraway seeds<br /> - ¼ teaspoon garlic powder<br /> - 1 teaspoon parsley flakes<br /> - ½ head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber<br /> - ¼ cup wine vinegar<br /> - Salt and pepper to taste</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 81 --><a name="Page_81" - id="Page_81"></a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fill bottom of double boiler with water to ¾ - mark. Sprinkle salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil - over medium flame. When upper part is hot, put in cheese, - powdered milk, baking powder, gelatin, caraway seeds and - pepper and garlic powder to taste. Mix. Break eggs into - this mixture, cook over low flame, continually stirring. - Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and continue cooking and - stirring until tomatoes have been cooked soft. Remove to - lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has been - slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_A_1" - id="Footnote_A_1"></a> - <a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> - (from <i>The Low-Calory Cookbook</i> by Bernard Koten, - published by Random House)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Curry Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 tablespoon cornstarch<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon minced chives<br /> - 2 green onions, minced<br /> - 2 shallots, minced<br /> - ¼ teaspoon imported curry powder<br /> - 1 tablespoon chutney sauce</p> - - <p>Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald - the rest over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture - and stir in the cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and - chutney while wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and - sizzling enough to pour over buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p>People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in - Rabbits, just as they add soda to spoil the cooking of - vegetables.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ginger Ale Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the - No. 1 Rabbit of all time.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Buttermilk Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 - Rabbit. To be consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk - Cheese, instead of the usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. - This is milder.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 82 --><a name="Page_82" - id="Page_82"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggnog Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons sweet butter<br /> - 2 cups grated mellow Cheddar<br /> - 1⅓ cups eggnog<br /> - Dashes of spice to taste.</p> - - <p>After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog - and keep stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or - not, depending on taste and the quality of eggnog - employed.</p> - </div> - - <p>Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the - milkman in holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful - Rabbits have been multiplying as fast as guinea pigs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Succotash - Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup milk<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 3 cups grated cheese<br /> - 1 cup creamed succotash, strained<br /> - Salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in - the cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the - creamed succotash and season to taste.</p> - - <p>Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 quart warm milk<br /> - 2 cups grated cheese</p> - - <p>Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot - toast in heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in - north Denmark.</p> - - <p>As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to - taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 83 --><a name="Page_83" - id="Page_83"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Easy English Rabbit</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of - cheese with butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few - spoonfuls of beer and a bit of prepared mustard. When - smoothly melted, pour over the piping-hot, beer-soaked - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 84 --> <a name="Page_84" - id="Page_84"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/084.gif" - width="450" - height="311" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Six</i> - </div> - - <h2>The Fondue</h2> - - <p>There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take - the heart out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better - than a collapsed soufflé, with his definition:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><b>Fondue.</b> Also, erroneously, <i>fondu</i>. A dish - made of melted cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and - bread crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p>Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for - centuries has been one of the world's greatest, to "a - combination of melted cheese, eggs and butter" and explains - that the name comes from the French <i>fondre</i>, meaning - melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date <i>Cook's - Quiz</i> compiled by TV culinary experts:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread - crumbs.</p> - </div> - - <p>A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety - <!-- Page 85 --><a name="Page_85" - id="Page_85"></a>and inebriety of nations, if not of - dictionaries. It has commanded the respect of the culinary - great. Savarin, Boulestin, André Simon, all have - hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with - its creamy, nay velvety, smoothness.</p> - - <p>A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black - pepper, nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne - pepper, the luscious gravy of roast turkey—such little - matters help to make an authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked - Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin a century and a - half ago brought the original "receipt" with him and spread it - around with characteristic generosity during the two years of - his exile in New York after the French Revolution. In his - monumental <i>Physiologie du Goût</i> he records an - incident that occurred in 1795:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the - restaurant-keeper Julien to make a <i>Fondue</i>, or eggs - cooked with cheese. This dish, a novelty to the Americans, - became so much the rage, that he (Julien) felt himself - obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to New York the rump - of one of those pretty little roebucks that are brought - from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite by - the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion.</p> - </div> - - <p>As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss - border (at Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where - Gertrude Stein later had a summer home), he no doubt ate - Gruyère three times a day, as is the custom in - Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe just as - he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur - Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the - number of your guests. Then take a lump of good - Gruyère cheese, weighing about a third of the eggs, - and a nut of butter about half the weight of the cheese. - (Since today's eggs in America weigh about 1½ ounces - apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. - <!-- Page 86 --><a name="Page_86" - id="Page_86"></a>your lump of good Gruyère would - come to ¼ pound and your butter to ⅛ - pound.)</p> - - <p>Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the - butter and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces.</p> - - <p>Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden - spoon until the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a - little or no salt, according to the age of the cheese, and - a good deal of pepper, for this is one of the special - attributes of this ancient dish.</p> - - <p>Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some - of the best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite - freely, a marvelous effect will be beheld.</p> - </div> - - <p>This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the - national dish of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters - in his district laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his - Fondue with a spoon instead of the traditional fork, in the - first decade of the 1700's. He tells, too, of a Fondue party he - threw for a couple of his septuagenarian cousins in Paris - "about the year 1801."</p> - - <p>The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the - master: "By Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long - time about your Fondues, you have continually made our mouths - water. It is high time to put a stop to all this. We will come - and breakfast with you some day and see what sort of thing this - dish is."</p> - - <p>Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them - off with the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each - one's place two dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At - each end of the table stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully - wiped, excepting the cork, which showed distinctly that it had - been in the cellar for a long while.... After the oysters, - which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, a - <i>terrine</i> of <i>foie gras</i>, a pie with truffles, and - finally the Fondue. The different ingredients had all been - assembled in a stewpan, which was placed on the table over a - chafing dish, heated with spirits of wine.</p> - - <p>"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the - field of battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of - <!-- Page 87 --><a name="Page_87" - id="Page_87"></a>my movements. They were loud in the praise - of this preparation, and asked me to let them have the - receipt, which I promised them...."</p> - - <p>This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century - such a good start was polished off with "fruits in season and - sweets, a cup of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of - liqueurs, one a spirit for cleansing, and the other an oil for - softening."</p> - - <p>This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more - elaborately in what is called:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neufchâtel - Style</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ cups grated imported Swiss<br /> - 1½ tablespoons flour<br /> - 1 clove of garlic<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> - Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big - mouthfuls, handy<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">for dunking</span><br /> - 1 jigger kirsch<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - Nutmeg</p> - - <p>The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and - mixed well with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking - and a small heated casserole for serving. Hub the bottom - and sides of the blazer well with garlic, pour in the wine - and heat to bubbling, just under boiling. Add cheese - slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir steadily in one - direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a silver - fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on how - salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, - freshly ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the - kirsch, stir steadily and invite guests to dunk their - forked bread in the dish or in a smaller preheated - casserole over a low electric or alcohol burner on the - dining table. The trick is to keep the bubbling melted - cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up and down - and around and around.</p> - </div> - - <p>The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through - the soft part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your - bread <!-- Page 88 --><a name="Page_88" - id="Page_88"></a>comes off in dunking you pay a forfeit, - often a bottle of wine.</p> - - <p>The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests - taking regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese - swirling. When this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has - been called in England, is ready for eating, each in turn - thrusts in his fork, sops up a mouthful with the bread for a - sponge and gives the Fondue a final stir, to keep it always - moving in the same direction. All the while the heat beneath - the dish keeps it gently bubbling.</p> - - <p>Such a Neufchâtel party was a favorite of King Edward - VII, especially when he was stepping out as the Prince of - Wales. He was as fond of Fondue as most of the great gourmets - of his day and preferred it to Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of - the wine and kirsch that went into it.</p> - - <p>At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue - gets too thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in - the bottom of the dish, this is forked out by the host and - divided among the guests as a very special dividend.</p> - - <p>Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the - Switzerland Cheese Association, in broadcasting this classical - recipe, points out that any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, - including applejack, will be a valid substitute for the kirsch. - To us, applejack seems specially suited, when we stop to - consider our native taste that has married apple pie to cheese - since pioneer times.</p> - - <p>In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible - consistency" and this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese - alone, although we use it chiefly for that.</p> - - <p>In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish - of eggs scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very - hot on toasted bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly - browned on top and served at once. The reason for this is that - all baked Fondues fall as easily and as far as Soufflés, - although the latter are more noted for this failing. There is a - similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, although the Fondues - are always more moist. For there is a stiff, stuffed-shirt - buildup around any Soufflé, - <!-- Page 89 --><a name="Page_89" - id="Page_89"></a>suggesting a dressy dinner, while Fondue - started as a self-service dunking bowl.</p> - - <p>Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original - French Fondue on the Welsh Rabbit model—to turn it into a - sort of French Rabbit. Although we know that both - Gruyère and Emmentaler are what we call Swiss and that - it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich Alpine flavor - given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all sorts - of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to - stick to Savarin's "lump of Gruyère" just as the - neighboring French and Italians do. It is interesting to note - that this Swiss Alpine cooking has become so international that - it is credited to Italy in the following description we reprint - from <i>When Madame Cooks</i>, by an Englishman, Eric Weir:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fondue à - l'Italienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel - really grateful to hens. From its name it originated - probably in Italy, but it has crossed the Alps. I have - often met it in France, but only once in Italy.</p> - - <p>First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, - flour and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow - the wooden spoon to stand upright or almost.</p> - - <p>Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated - Gruyère cheese. Mix this in well with the white - sauce and season with salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. - Beat whites of egg firm. Add the whites to the preparation, - stir in, and pour into a pudding basin.</p> - - <p>Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring - to a boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top - of the basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently - for 1½ to 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time - to time, as it evaporates, and take care that the water, in - boiling, does not bubble over the mixture.</p> - - <p>Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is - cooked. When <!-- Page 90 --><a name="Page_90" - id="Page_90"></a> the knife comes out clean, take the - basin out of the water and turn the Fondue out on a - dish. It should be fairly firm and keep the shape of the - basin.</p> - - <p>Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, - then marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before - being melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be - pleasantly adopted here in:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>All-American Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed<br /> - ¾ cup scuppernong or other American white - wine<br /> - 1½ jiggers applejack</p> - - <p>After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply - melt together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, - add the applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your - own to a chorus of "All Bound Round with a Woolen - String."</p> - - <p>Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh - Rabbit and poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. - But wine is the thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine - what the Rabbit is to stale ale or fresh beer.</p> - </div> - - <p>We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over - the dish so eagerly, together with the great Gruyère - that makes it distinctive. They internationalized it, sent it - around the world with bouillabaisse and onion soup, that - celestial <i>soupe à l'oignon</i> on which snowy showers - of grated Gruyère descend.</p> - - <p>To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue - à l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike - relationship of the world's two favorite dishes of melted - cheese. But to differentiate and show they are not identical - twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage Fondue while the second - was baptized Fromage Fondue à la Bière.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 91 --><a name="Page_91" - id="Page_91"></a> Beginning with Savarin the French whisked - up more rapturous, rhapsodic writing about Gruyère - and its offspring, the Fondue, together with the puffed - Soufflé, than about any other imported cheese except - Parmesan.</p> - - <p>Parmesan and Gruyère were praised as the two greatest - culinary cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian - cheese.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper</p> - - <p>Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir - in the eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one - direction only, until smooth.</p> - - <p>Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as - the ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten - with a fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like - chicken-in-the-rough.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sapsago Swiss Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1½ cups milk<br /> - 2½ cups shredded Swiss cheese<br /> - 2½ tablespoons grated Sapsago<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - Pepper, black and red, freshly ground<br /> - Fingers of toast</p> - - <p>Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into - a smooth, fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss - cheese until well melted. After that add the Sapsago, - finely grated, and wine in small splashes. Stir steadily, - in one direction only, until velvety. Season sharply with - the contrasting peppers and serve over fingers of - toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 92 --><a name="Page_92" - id="Page_92"></a> This is also nice when served bubbling in - individual, preheated pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, - although this way most of the fun of the dunking party is - left out. To make up for it, however, cooked slices of - mushrooms are sometimes added.</p> - - <p>At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss - Pavilion, where a continual dunking party was in progress, - thousands of amateurs learned such basic things as not to - overcook the Fondue lest it become stringy, and the protocol of - dunking in turn and keeping the mass in continual motion until - the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of bread. The - success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping it - gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split - second.</p> - - <p>The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese - per capita as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are - willing to share Fondue honors with the French Alpine province - of Savoy, a natural cheese cellar with almost two dozen - distinctive types of its very own, such as Fat cheese, also - called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a luscious half-dried - sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk cheeses; and - Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and Switzerland, - boasts two interesting variants:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1. <i>Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:</i> Made about - the same as Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then - melted, spices added and the cheese re-formed. It is also - called Spiced Fondue and sells for about two dollars a - pound. Named Fondue from being melted, though it's really - recooked,</p> - - <p>2. <i>Vacherin à la Main:</i> This is a curiosity - in cheeses, resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of - cow's milk, it is round, a foot in diameter and half a foot - high. It is salted and aged until the rind is hard and the - inside more runny than the ripest Camembert, so it can be - eaten with a spoon (like the cooked Fondue) as well as - spread on bread. The local name for it is <i>Tome de - Montagne</i>.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 93 --><a name="Page_93" - id="Page_93"></a> Here is a good assortment of Fondues:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vacherin-Fribourg - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 clove garlic, crushed<br /> - 2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons hot water</p> - - <p>This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic - in butter until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic - and reduce heat. Add the soft cheese and stir with silver - fork until smooth and velvety. Add the water in little - splashes, stirring constantly in one direction. Dunk! (In - this melted Swiss a little water takes the place of a lot - of wine.)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue Comtois</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This regional specialty of Franche-Comté is made - with white wine. Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish - type will serve splendidly. Also use butter, grated - Gruyère, beaten eggs and that touch of garlic.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chives Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 cups grated Swiss cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 garlic clove, crushed<br /> - 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives<br /> - 1 cup dry white wine<br /> - Salt<br /> - Freshly ground pepper<br /> - A pinch of nutmeg<br /> - ¼ cup kirsch</p> - - <p>Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer - rubbed with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add - wine and heat just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add - cheese-and-flour mix gradually, stirring always in one - direction. Salt <!-- Page 94 --><a name="Page_94" - id="Page_94"></a>according to age and sharpness of - cheese; add plenty of freshly ground pepper and the - pinch of nutmeg.</p> - - <p>When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in - the kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to - dunking.</p> - - <p>Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change - for dunking purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating - with the absorbent bread, or hard rolls.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped<br /> - ½ teaspoon dried sweet basil<br /> - 1 clove garlic<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup dry white wine<br /> - 2 cups grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with - garlic, melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 - to 6 minutes, add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. - Then add cheese, half a cup at a time, and keep stirring - until everything is smooth.</p> - - <p>Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit.</p> - </div> - - <p>Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but - they're held together with the common ingredient, tomato.</p> - - <p>Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. - Stale bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato Baked Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup tomato juice<br /> - 1 cup stale bread crumbs<br /> - 1 cup grated sharp American cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon melted butter<br /> - Salt<br /> - 4 eggs, separated and well beaten</p> - - <p>Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until - melted, season with a little or no salt, depending on - saltiness of the <!-- Page 95 --><a name="Page_95" - id="Page_95"></a> cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold - in the white and bake about 50 minutes in moderate - oven.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - BAKED FONDUES - </div> - - <p>Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a - sensation on these shores and is still in highest esteem among - epicures, the Fondue America took to its bosom was baked. The - original recipe came from the super-caseous province of Savoy - under the explicit title, <i>La Fondue au Fromage</i>.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>La Fondue au Fromage</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, - yolks of eggs and Gruyère, in thin slices for a - change. Use red pepper instead of black, splash in a jigger - of kirsch but no white wine. Finally fold in the egg whites - and bake in a mold for 45 minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p>We adapted this to our national taste which had already - based the whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit - with stale ale or milk instead of white wine and - Worcestershire, mustard and hot peppers. Today we have come up - with this:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>100% American Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups scalded milk<br /> - 2 cups stale bread crumbs<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry English mustard<br /> - Salt<br /> - Dash of nutmeg<br /> - Dash of pepper<br /> - 2 cups American cheese (Cheddar)<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until - melted. Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a - smooth mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites - stiff, leaving them <!-- Page 96 --><a name="Page_96" - id="Page_96"></a> slightly moist. Fold the whites into - the cool, custardy mix and bake in a buttered dish until - firm. (About 50 minutes in a moderate oven.)</p> - </div> - - <p>This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to - our way of thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take - the place of the wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our - bland cookery.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - OTHER FONDUES<br /> - PLAIN AND FANCY,<br /> - BAKED AND NOT - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Quickie Catsup Tummy - Fondiddy</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp cheese, diced<br /> - 1 can condensed tomato soup<br /> - ½ cup catsup<br /> - ½ teaspoon mustard<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten</p> - - <p>In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly - by constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or - fold in the catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on - Melba toast or rusks.</p> - </div> - - <p>This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a - cup of cocoa, for a change.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Rice - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup cooked rice<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - 4 eggs, separated and well beaten<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all - three</p> - - <p>Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in - cheese until melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, - season, fold in stiff egg whites. Serve hot on toast.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 97 --><a name="Page_97" - id="Page_97"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Corn and Cheese - Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup bread crumbs<br /> - 1 large can creamed corn<br /> - 1 small onion, chopped<br /> - ½ green pepper, chopped<br /> - 2 cups cottage cheese<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 2 eggs, well beaten</p> - - <p>Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered - casserole set in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in - moderate oven, or until set.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Cheddar<br /> - ½ cup crumbled Roquefort<br /> - 1 cup pimento cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - 3 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 teaspoon Worcestershire</p> - - <p>Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and - creamy. Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream - or mayonnaise if too stiff.</p> - - <p>Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted - crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brick Fondue</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup butter<br /> - 2 cups grated Brick cheese<br /> - ½ cup warm milk<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 2 eggs</p> - - <p>Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip - in the warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the - eggs, one at a time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls - for each egg to be beaten separately in cases like - this.</p> - - <p>Serve over hot toast or crackers.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 98 --><a name="Page_98" - id="Page_98"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Dunk Bowl</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ pound sharp Cheddar cheese<br /> - 3 tablespoons cream<br /> - ⅔ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 1½ teaspoons Worcestershire</p> - - <p>Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with - the cream until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful - bowl for dunking in the original style of Savarin, although - this is a static imitation of the real thing.</p> - - <p>All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, - from celery stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut - from Bombay duck.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 99 --><a name="Page_99" - id="Page_99"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/099.gif" - width="450" - height="304" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Seven</i> - </div> - - <h2>Soufflés, Puffs and Ramekins</h2> - - <p>There isn't much difference between Cheese Soufflés, - Puffs and Ramekins. The <i>English Encyclopedia of Practical - Cookery</i>, the oldest, biggest and best of such works in - English, lumps Cheese Puffs and Ramekins together, giving the - same recipes for both, although it treats each extensively - under its own name when not made with cheese.</p> - - <p>Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese - and bread crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff - again the principal factor in Soufflé, from the French - <i>souffler</i>, puff up).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 100 --><a name="Page_100" - id="Page_100"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Basic Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons butter or margarine<br /> - 4 tablespoons flour<br /> - 1¼ cups hot milk, scalded<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of cayenne<br /> - ½ cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until - thick and smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the - cooking and slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat - and let cool somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a - light hand and an upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites - and when evenly mixed pour into a big, round baking dish. - (Some butter it and some don't.) To make sure the top will - be even when baked, run a spoon or knife around the - surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the dish, before - baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high and - beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the - Soufflé may fall. The baking takes up to an hour and - the egg whites shouldn't be beaten so stiff they are hard - to fold in and contain no air to expand and puff up the - dish.</p> - </div> - - <p>To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, - lemon juice, nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, - especially in England.</p> - - <p>While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a - close second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all - three of these together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in - the Ramekin recipes below.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these small - modifications in the ingredients:</p> - - <p><!-- Page 101 --><a name="Page_101" - id="Page_101"></a> 1 full cup of grated Parmesan<br /> - 1 extra egg in place of the ½ cup of Cheddar - cheese<br /> - A little more butter<br /> - Black pepper, not cayenne</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these slight - changes:</p> - - <p>1¼ cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the - Cheddar cheese<br /> - Nutmeg in place of the cayenne</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan-Swiss - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make the same as Basic Soufflé, with these little - differences:</p> - - <p>½ cup grated Swiss cheese, and ½ cup - grated Parmesan in place<br /> - of the Cheddar cheese<br /> - ¼ teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for - seasoning.</p> - </div> - - <p>Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper - climax to a grand dinner.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Corn - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make as Basic Soufflé, substituting for the - scalded milk 1 cup of sieved and strained juice from - cream-style canned corn.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Spinach - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sauté 1½ cups of finely chopped, drained - spinach in butter with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and - then whip it until light and fluffy. Mix well into the - white sauce of the Basic Soufflé before adding the - cheese and following the rest of the recipe.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Tomato - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 102 --><a name="Page_102" - id="Page_102"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Sea-food - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Add 1½ cups finely chopped or ground lobster, - crab, shrimp, other sea food or mixture thereof, with any - preferred seasoning added.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Mushroom - Soufflé</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1½ cups grated sharp Cheddar<br /> - 1 cup cream of mushroom soup<br /> - Paprika, to taste<br /> - Salt<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - 2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon<br /> - 2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds</p> - - <p>Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese - gradually and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken - the sauce with egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and - finally fold in the whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds - and bake until golden brown and puffed high (about 1 - hour).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-Potato - Soufflé</b> (Potato Puff)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>6 potatoes<br /> - 2 onions<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter or margarine<br /> - 1 cup hot milk<br /> - ¾ cup grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - A dash of pepper<br /> - 2 egg yolks, well beaten<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - ¼ cup grated Cheddar cheese</p> - - <p>Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put - through a ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except - the egg whites and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix - thoroughly and pour into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle - the ¼ cup of Cheddar on - <!-- Page 103 --><a name="Page_103" - id="Page_103"></a> top and bake in moderate oven about - ½ hour, until golden-brown and well puffed. Serve - instantly.</p> - - <p>Variations of this popular Soufflé leave out the - onion and simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed - potatoes. Sometimes 1 tablespoon of catsup and another of - minced parsley is added to the mixture. Or onion juice - alone, to take the place of the cooked onions—about a - tablespoon, full or scant.</p> - </div> - - <p>The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or - Soufflé, are inclined to make it extra peppery, as they - do most of their Cheese Soufflés, with not only "a dust - of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be stood on the - face of a sixpence."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Fritter - Soufflés</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crêpes - suzette.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - PUFFS - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup grated Swiss<br /> - 1 cup grated Parmesan<br /> - 1 cup cream cheese<br /> - 5 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - salt and pepper</p> - - <p>Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten - eggs, splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly - incorporated, put in ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort - of little mold of any shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 - minutes, until richly browned.</p> - </div> - - <p>Such miniature Soufflés serve as liaison officers for - this entire section, since they are baked in ramekins, or - ramequins, from the French word for the small baking dish that - holds only one portion. These may be paper boxes, usually - round, earthenware, <!-- Page 104 --><a name="Page_104" - id="Page_104"></a>china, Pyrex, of any attractive shape in - which to bake or serve the Puffs.</p> - - <p>More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without - ramekin dishes, as follows:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Fried Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 egg whites, beaten stiff<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - Salt<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and - seasonings. When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, - roll in crumbs and fry.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>⅛ pound genuine French Roquefort<br /> - 1 egg white, beaten stiff<br /> - 8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds</p> - - <p>Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on - crackers and bake 15 minutes in slow oven.</p> - </div> - - <p>The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes - may give the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, - but such is not the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and - left moist and glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad - droop to them that shows there is still room for the air to - expand and puff things up in cooking.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with - equal parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a - score <!-- Page 105 --><a name="Page_105" - id="Page_105"></a>or more of crackers in a roomy pan and - broil a couple of minutes till they puff up - golden-brown.</p> - - <p>Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, - second best, from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and - Italian settlers get together on excellent Parmesan and - Romano. Never buy Parmesan already grated; it quickly loses - its flavor.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Breakfast Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup flour<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - ¼ cup finely grated cheese<br /> - 1 egg, lightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt</p> - - <p>Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill - ramekins or cups half full; then bake in quick oven until - they are puffing over the top and golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Danish Fondue Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 stale roll<br /> - ½ cup boiling hot milk<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - 4 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with - cheese and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the - egg whites and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and - slowly bake until puffed up and golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>New England Cheese - Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon baking powder<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon Hungarian paprika<br /> - ¼ teaspoon dry mustard<br /> - 2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry<br /> - <!-- Page 106 --><a name="Page_106" - id="Page_106"></a></p> - - <p>Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and - stir in. Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold - in the egg whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big - spoon into hot deep fat and cook until well browned.</p> - - <p>Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also - used, and either of these makes a snappier puff, especially - tasty when served with soup.</p> - - <p>A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cream Cheese Puffs</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - 4 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - ½ teaspoon dry mustard</p> - - <p>Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from - heat and add milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well - blended, then pour into custard cups, ramekins or any other - individual baking dishes that are attractive enough to - serve the puffs in.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - </div> - - <p>Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be - collected like snuff bottles.</p> - - <p>Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the - individual dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese - Puff, this is also <i>au gratin</i> when topped with both - cheese and browned bread crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's - license the name is also applied to any kind of cake containing - cheese and cooked in the identifying one-portion ramekin. It is - used chiefly in the plural, however, together with the name of - the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken Ramekins" and:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins I</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 2 tablespoons flour<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, melted<br /> - ⅛ pound grated cheese<br /> - <!-- Page 107 --><a name="Page_107" - id="Page_107"></a></p> - - <p>Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 - minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins II</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - ½ teaspoon each, salt and pepper<br /> - ¾ cup bread crumbs<br /> - ½ cup grated cheese<br /> - 2 eggs, lightly beaten<br /> - 1½ cups milk</p> - - <p>Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs - into the milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in - buttered ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. - Serve piping hot, for like Soufflés and all - associated Puffs, the hot air will puff out of them - quickly; then they will sink and be inedible.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES,<br /> - STILL GOING STRONG - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins III</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Grate ½ pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a - dozen small paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing - paper like Soufflé cases. Put a saucepan containing - ½ pint of water over the fire, add 2 tablespoons of - butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 heaping - tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the - grated cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, - and let it partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks - from the whites of three eggs, and beat them until the - yolks foam and the whites make a stiff froth. Put the - mixture at once into the buttered paper cases, only - half-filling them (since they rise very high while being - baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a moderate - oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are done, - put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and - still is, Gruyère. But because the early English also - adopted Italian Parmesan, <!-- Page 108 --><a name="Page_108" - id="Page_108"></a> that followed as a close second, and - remains there today.</p> - - <p>Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this - second oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and - Cheshire "'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. - Gloucester has been called "a glorified Cheshire" and the - latter has long been known as a peculiarly rich and colorful - elder brother of Cheddar, described in Kenelme Digby's - <i>Closet Open'd</i> as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted - cheese."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Ramekins IV</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Scrape fine ¼ pound of Gloucester cheese and - ¼ pound of Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese - in a mortar with the yolks of 4 eggs, ¼ pound of - fresh butter, and the crumbs of a French roll boiled in - cream until soft. When all this is well mixed and pounded - to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. Should the - paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may be - added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served - very hot.</p> - </div> - - <p>Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not - easily come by even in London today, it would be hard to - reproduce this in the States. So the best we can suggest is to - use half-and-half of two of our own great Cheddars, say - half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or half-Tillamook and - half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about it, - contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three - different kinds put together make Puffs all the more - perfect.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Ramequins à la - Parisienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups milk<br /> - 1 cup cream<br /> - 1 ounce salt butter<br /> - 1 tablespoon flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Gruyère<br /> - Coarsely ground pepper<br /> - An atom of nutmeg<br /> - A <i>soupçon</i> of garlic<br /> - A light touch of powdered sugar<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - <!-- Page 109 --><a name="Page_109" - id="Page_109"></a></p> - - <p>Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the - flour and stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and - cream mixture a little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, - remove from heat and stir in cheese, seasonings and the - yolks of all 8 eggs, well beaten, and the whites of 2 even - better beaten. When well mixed, fold in the remaining egg - whites, stiffly beaten, until you have a batter as smooth - and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of paper, - porcelain or earthenware, filling each about ⅔ full - to allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow - oven until golden-brown (or a little less than 20 - minutes).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Le Ramequin - Morézien</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comté is - described as "a porridge of water, butter, seasoning, - chopped garlic and toast; thickened with minced - Gruyère and served very hot."</p> - </div> - - <p>Several French provinces are known for distinctive - individual Puffs usually served in the dainty fluted forms they - are cooked in. In Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there - are the simply named <i>Les Ramequins</i>, made of flour, - Gruyère and eggs.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss-Roquefort - Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ pound Swiss cheese<br /> - ¼ pound Roquefort cheese<br /> - ½ pound butter<br /> - 8 eggs, separated<br /> - 4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed<br /> - ½ cup cream</p> - - <p>The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft - insides of the rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. - The egg whites are folded in last, as always, the batter - poured into ramekins part full and baked to a golden-brown. - Then they are served instantaneously, lest they fall.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 110 --><a name="Page_110" - id="Page_110"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Puff Paste Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled - with fine tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as - Parmesan with Gruyère and/or Swiss Sapsago for a - piquant change, but in lesser quantity than the other - cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the favorite - for these.</p> - - <p>Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with - more cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in - small fancy shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. - Brushing with egg yolk before baking makes these Ramekins - shine.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Frying Pan Ramekins</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then - mix with ½ pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 - eggs, beaten stiff but not dry. Cover frying pan with - buttered papers, put slices of bread on this and cover with - the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 minutes, take it off and - brown it with a salamander.</p> - </div> - - <p>There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One - holds that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; - the other that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts - have special cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, - to identify their creations, whether they be burned on the - skins of Welsh Rabbits or Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering - with an iron that has a gay, carnivalesque design can make a - sort of harlequin Ramekin.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Casserole Ramekin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a - deep casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and - Swiss cheese, with the cheese slices a bit bigger all - around. Beat 2 eggs with 2 cups of milk, season with salt - and—of all things—nutmeg! Proceed to bake like - individual Ramekins.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 111 --><a name="Page_111" - id="Page_111"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/111.gif" - width="450" - height="397" - alt="" - title="" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Eight</i> - </div> - - <h2>Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc.</h2> - - <p>No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always - appease them with pizza.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pizza—The Tomato Pie of - Sicily</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>DOUGH</p> - - <p>1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water<br /> - 2 cups sifted flour<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 2 tablespoons olive oil</p> - - <p>Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a - ball, cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place - until twice the size.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 112 --><a name="Page_112" - id="Page_112"></a>TOMATO PASTE</p> - - <p>3 tablespoons olive oil<br /> - 2 large onions, sliced thin<br /> - 1 can Italian tomato paste<br /> - 8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small<br /> - ½ teaspoon oregano<br /> - Salt<br /> - Crushed chili pepper<br /> - 2½ cups water</p>> - - <p>In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in - tomato paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour - water over and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add - anchovies when sauce is done.</p> - - <p>CHEESE</p> - - <p>½ cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or - Pecorino, depending on your pocketbook</p> - - <p>Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or - reasonable substitute, and grease well before spreading the - well-raised dough ½ to ¾ inch thick. Poke - your finger tips haphazardly into the dough to make marks - that will catch the sauce when you pour it on generously. - Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese and bake in hot - oven ½ hour, then ¼ hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any - other pie and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p>The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to - regular apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most - popular.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /><b>Miniature Pizzas</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with - garlic or onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with - tomato sauce and a slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, - oregano and grated Parmesan, and heat 8 minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 113 --><a name="Page_113" - id="Page_113"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian-Swiss - Scallopini</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets<br /> - ½ cup flour<br /> - ½ cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed<br /> - 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water<br /> - Butter<br /> - Salt<br /> - Paprika</p> - - <p>Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with - cheese, quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes - till tender. Dust with paprika and salt.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or - Stuffed Noodles</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles<br /> - 1½ cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat<br /> - ½ pound Ricotta or cottage cheese<br /> - 1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar<br /> - ¼ pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper, preferably crushed red pods<br /> - A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable - substitute</p> - - <p>Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly - boiling salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. - Pour ½ cup of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, - cover with about ½ of the noodles, sprinkle with - grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a layer of Mozzarella - and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this fashion, alternating - layers and seasoning each, ending with a final spread of - sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in moderate oven, - about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, with - canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Little Hats, - Cappelletti</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, - contrived out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little - Italy macaroni shop. <!-- Page 114 --><a name="Page_114" - id="Page_114"></a> These may be stuffed sensationally in - four different flavors with only two cheeses.</p> - - <p>Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. - Mince each very fine and divide in half, to make four - mixtures in equal amounts. Season these with salt, pepper - and nutmeg and a binding of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg - white.</p> - - <p>With these meat mixtures you can make four - different-flavored fillings:</p> - - <p>Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and - Ricotta Chicken and Ricotta</p> - - <p>Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the - same number of each different kind. Pinch edges tight - together to keep the stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 - minutes in chicken broth (or salted water, if you - must).</p> - - <p>Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and - shape of ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot - plates, with plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable - substitute. If we count this final seasoning as an - ingredient, this makes three cheeses, so that each of half - a dozen taste buds can be getting individual sensations - without letting the others know what it's doing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Dauphiny Ravioli</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of - pastry follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat - cheese and Gruyère melted with butter and minced - parsley and boiled in chicken broth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritters</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¼ cup flour<br /> - 2 tablespoons sugar<br /> - ¼ pound fresh Ricotta<br /> - 2 eggs, beaten<br /> - ½ cup shredded Mozzarella<br /> - Rind of ½ lemon, grated<br /> - 3 tablespoons brandy<br /> - Salt<br /> - <!-- Page 115 --><a name="Page_115" - id="Page_115"></a></p> - - <p>Stir and mix well together in the order given and let - stand 1 hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold - its shape while cooking.</p> - - <p>Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the - bowl of a long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in - boiling hot oil. Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at - once with powdered sugar.</p> - - <p>To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several - contrasting cheeses in this batter.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Asparagus and - Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one - and the same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation - layer of grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a - layer of tender parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a - layer of grated Gruyère with a bit of butter, and - another of asparagus. From here you can go as far as you - like with varied layers of melting cheeses alternating with - asparagus, until you come to the top, where you add two - more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered Parmesan with - Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Garlic on Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by - removing skins and frying out the fierce pungence in - smoking olive oil. They skip in the hot pan like Mexican - jumping beans. Toast one side of a thickish slice of bread, - put this side down on a grilling pan, cover it with a slice - of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyère, of about - the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into - the cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt - lightly and dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob - Brown in Merle Armitage's collection <i>Fit for a - King</i>.)</p> - </div> - - <p>Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them - toes. It was cheese and garlic together that inspired - Shakespeare to Hotspur's declaration in <i>King Henry - IV</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 116 --> - <a name="Page_116" - id="Page_116"></a> <span>I had rather - live<br /></span> <span>With cheese and garlic in - a windmill, far,<br /></span> <span>Than feed on - cates and have him talk to me<br /></span> - <span>In any summer-house in - Christendom.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Some people can take a mere <i>soupçon</i> of the - stuff, while others can down it by the soup spoon, so we feel - it necessary in reprinting our recipe to point to the warning - of another early English writer: "Garlic is very dangerous to - young children, fine women and hot young men."</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Blintzes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This snow white member of the crêpes suzette - sorority is the most popular deb in New York's fancy cheese - dishes set. Almost unknown here a decade or two ago, it has - joined blinis, kreplach and cheeseburgers as a quick and - sustaining lunch for office workers.</p> - - <p>2 eggs<br /> - 1 cup water<br /> - 1 cup sifted flour<br /> - Salt<br /> - Cooking oil<br /> - ½ pound cottage cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - 2 cups sour cream</p> - - <p>Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour - and salt to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and - make little pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. - Cook the cakes over low heat and on one side only. Slide - each cake off on a white cloth, with the cooked side down. - While these are cooling make the blintz-filling by beating - together the second egg, cottage cheese and butter. Spread - each pancake thickly with the mixture and roll or make into - little pockets or envelopes with the end tucked in to hold - the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and serve at - once with sufficient sour cream to smother them.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Vatroushki</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of - blinis and blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be - made was <!-- Page 117 --><a name="Page_117" - id="Page_117"></a> vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes - above. The chief difference is that rounds of puff paste - dough are used instead of the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of - sugar is added to the cottage cheese filling, and the - sour cream, ½ cup, is mixed into this instead of - being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix - are made by pinching the edges of the dough together. - The tops are brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk - oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cottage Cheese - Pancakes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 cup prepared pancake<br /> - 4 tablespoons top milk or light cream<br /> - 1 teaspoon salt<br /> - 4 eggs, well beaten<br /> - 1 tablespoon sugar<br /> - 2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer</p> - - <p>Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Waffles</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups prepared waffle flour<br /> - 3 egg yolks, lightly beaten<br /> - ¼ cup melted butter<br /> - ¾ cup grated sharp Cheddar<br /> - 3 egg whites, beaten stiff</p> - - <p>Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 - ingredients and fold in egg whites last.</p> - </div> - - <p>Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to - heat quickly and serve.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Napkin Dumpling</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound cottage cheese<br /> - ⅛ pound butter, softened<br /> - 3 eggs, beaten<br /> - ¾ cup Farina<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - Cinnamon and brown sugar</p> - - <p>Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and - sugar) to form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold - water and tie <!-- Page 118 --><a name="Page_118" - id="Page_118"></a>the ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to - 50 minutes in salted boiling water, remove from napkin, - sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown sugar, and serve. - This is on the style of Hungarian potato and other - succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as - a meal in itself.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - BUTTER AND CHEESE - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Where fish is scant<br /></span> <span>And fruit - of trees,<br /></span> <span>Supply that - want<br /></span> <span>With butter and - cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Thomas Tusser in<br /></span> - <span class="auth"><i>The Last Remedy</i><br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for - cheese butter. Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or - less matches Turkey's Durak, of which butter is an - indispensable ingredient, and French Cancoillote is based on - sour milk simmered with butter.</p> - - <p>The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the - butter substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of - thought about whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or - not, for in Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as - part of the process of making. The Arabs press curds and butter - together to store in vats, and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy - Butter.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - BUTTERMILK CHEESE - </div> - - <p>The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old - Hindu proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without - buttermilk he dies."</p> - - <p>Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of - <!-- Page 119 --><a name="Page_119" - id="Page_119"></a>dairy manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese - came well after plain milk cheese, even after whey cheese. - It is very tasty, and a natural with potato salad. The curd - is salted after draining and sold in small parchment - packages.</p> - - <p>German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. - The Danes make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta - Romano, for a novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - COTTAGE CHEESE - </div> - - <p>In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and - smearcase. It is the easiest and quickest to make of all - cheeses, by simply letting milk sour, or adding buttermilk to - curdle it, then stand a while on the back of the kitchen stove, - since it is homemade as a rule. It is drained in a bag of - cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually salted.</p> - - <p>The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true - recipes from olde England, and both are still in use and good - repute:</p> - - <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 1</i></p> - - <p>Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it - will immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour - a little cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up - attractively for serving.</p> - - <p><i>Cottage Cheese No. 2</i></p> - - <p>A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole - milk and buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling - point. Pour into a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then - remove, salt to taste and add a bit of butter or cream to make - a smooth, creamy consistency, and pat into balls the size of a - Seville orange.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 120 --><a name="Page_120" - id="Page_120"></a></p> - - <div class="cats"> - CREAM CHEESE - </div> - - <p>In England there are three distinct manners of making cream - cheese:</p> - - <ol> - <li>Fresh milk strained and lightly drained.</li> - - <li>Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like - Devonshire.</li> - - <li>Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, - packaged<br /> - in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, - as<br /> - in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese.</li> - </ol> - - <p>American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being - named from then: region or established brands owned by - Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, Shefford, etc.</p> - - <p>Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to - make than cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it - is not a cheese but the dried curd of milk and is often called - virginal. Fresh milk is simply strained through muslin in a - perforated box through which the whey and extra moisture drains - away for three or four days, leaving a residue as firm as fresh - butter.</p> - - <p>In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a - popular assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these - ingredients and names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, - Pimiento, Olive and Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, - Strawberry, and Triple Decker of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in - layers.</p> - - <p>In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. - Finally, to come to France, la Foncée or Fromage de Pau, - a cream also known around the world as Crême d'Isigny, - Double Crême, Fromage à la Crême de Gien, - Pots de Crême St. Gervais, etc. etc.</p> - - <p>The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with - Chevretons du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that - adds <i>à la crême</i> to their already glorified - names.</p> - - <p>The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more - of a dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese.</p> - - <p>We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too - sweet ones. Attempts at this have been made, both here and in - England; <!-- Page 121 --><a name="Page_121" - id="Page_121"></a>Scottish Caledonian cream came closest. We - have frozen cheese with fruit, to be sure, but no true - cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses seem - especially suitable.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The farmer's daughter hath soft brown - hair<br /></span> <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese)<br /></span> <span>And I met with a ballad I - can't say where,<br /></span> <span>That wholly - consisted of lines like these,<br /></span> - <span>(Butter and eggs and a pound of - cheese.)<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the - ingredients suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In - England. From that year Kettner in his <i>Book of the Table</i> - quotes this recipe:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well - together; and make small coffins (that is, cases of - pastry), and do it (put it) therein; and do (put) thereto - sugar and good powders. Or take good fat cheese and eggs - and make them of divers colours, green, red or yellow, and - bake them or serve them forth.</p> - </div> - - <p>This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of - honor that caused Kettner to wax poetic with:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a - countless number of these maids—light and airy as the - "airy, fairy Lilian." What more can the finest poetry - achieve in quickening the things of earth into tokens and - foretastes of heaven, with glimpses of higher life and - ethereal worlds.</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESECAKES - </div> - - <p><i>Coronation Cheese Cake</i></p> - - <p>The <i>Oxford Dictionary</i> defines cheese cake as a - "tartlet filled with sweet curds, etc." This shows that the - cheese is the main thing, and the and-so-forth just a matter of - taste. We are delighted to record that the Lord Mayor of London - picked traditional cheese tarts, the maids of honor mentioned - earlier in this section, as the Coronation dessert with which - to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city luncheon in - Guildhall This is most <!-- Page 122 --> - <a name="Page_122" - id="Page_122"></a>fitting, since these tarts were named - after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen - Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a - thousand pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual - cheese cake ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of - cheese, but what made the subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, - lemon, orange-flower water, or all four?</p> - - <p>More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese - cake, the Greeks had a word for it—several in fact: - Apician Cheese Cake, Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. - Then the Romans took it over and we read from an epistle of the - period:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have - been arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese - cakes dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such - as that of Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.)</p> - </div> - - <p>Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was - named for it before Christ was born, at a time when cheese - cakes were widely known as "dainty food for mortal man."</p> - - <p>Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of - which the ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most - popular in New York. But buyers delight in every sort, - including the one hundred percent American type called cheese - pies.</p> - - <p>Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese - cakes and cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are - made piquant with pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of - ours made from popcorn-style pot cheese put through a - sieve:</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pineapple Cheese Cake</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2½ pounds sieved pot cheese<br /> - 1-inch piece vanilla bean<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, melted<br /> - ½ small box graham crackers, crushed fine<br /> - 4 eggs<br /> - 2 cups sugar<br /> - 1 small can crushed pineapple, drained<br /> - 2 cups milk<br /> - ⅓ cup flour<br /> - <!-- Page 123 --><a name="Page_123" - id="Page_123"></a></p> - - <p>In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers - and pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square - Pyrex pan and put in the graham-cracker dust to make,a - crust. Cover this evenly with the pineapple and pour in the - cheese-custard mixture. Bake I hour in a "quiet" oven, as - the English used to say for a moderate one, and when done - set aside for 12 hours before eating.</p> - </div> - - <p>Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better - buy your cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones - cost a dime a bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American - ones in Manhattan. Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at - about five dollars a cake. Some are fruited with cherries or - strawberries.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Custard</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 eggs, slightly beaten<br /> - ½ teaspoon salt<br /> - 1 cup milk<br /> - A dash of pepper or paprika<br /> - 3 tablespoons melted butter<br /> - A few drops of onion juice, if desired<br /> - 4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported)</p> - - <p>Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and - bake until brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Open-faced Cheese Pie</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>3 eggs<br /> - 1 cup sugar<br /> - 2 pounds soft smearcase</p> - - <p>Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake - without any upper crust.</p> - </div> - - <p><b>The Apple-pie Affinity</b></p> - - <p>Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New - England, even as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has - cheese <!-- Page 124 --><a name="Page_124" - id="Page_124"></a>for a sidekick, according to law. Pioneer - hot pies were baked in brick ovens and flavored with nutmeg, - cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was Cheddar, but - today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are common, - such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, - pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hablé, and - even a green dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie.</p> - - <p>Apple pie <i>au gratin</i>, thickly grated over with - Parmesan, Caciocavallo or Sapsago, is something special when - served with black coffee. Cider, too, or applejack, is a - natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple with its - cheese.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie Adorned</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing - cream cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of - double cream beaten thick and salted a little. Put the - mixture in a pastry tube and decorate top of pie in - fanciful fashion.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple Pie á la - Cheese</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any - fruit or berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 - minutes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese-crusty Apple - Pie</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and - sprinkle with sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and - bake golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Flan au Fromage</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>To make this Franche-Comté tart of crisp paste, - simply mix coarsely grated Gruyère with beaten egg, - fill the tart cases and bake.</p> - - <p>For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, - work in tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 - parts of flour.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 125 --><a name="Page_125" - id="Page_125"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Christmas Cake - Sandwiches</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A traditional Christmas carol begs for:</p> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>A little bit of spice cake<br /></span> <span>A - little bit of cheese,<br /></span> <span>A glass of - cold water,<br /></span> <span>A penny, if you - please.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake - in slices and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese - between.</p> - - <p>To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, - serve apple pie with cheese and applejack.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Angelic Camembert</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 ripe Camembert, imported<br /> - 1 cup Anjou dry white wine<br /> - ½ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> - 2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs</p> - - <p>Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and - when its creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, - round covered dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no - bouquet or aroma can possibly escape, and let stand - overnight.</p> - - <p>When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, - dry the cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an - angelic paste. Reshape in original Camembert form, dust - thickly with the crumbs and there you are.</p> - </div> - - <p>Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since - some of them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken - straight.</p> - - <p>Although A. W. Fulton's observation in <i>For Men Only</i> - is going out of date, it is none the less amusing:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only - met one woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her - seemed to me so deserving of reward that I did not hesitate - to acquire her hand in marriage.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 126 --><a name="Page_126" - id="Page_126"></a> Another writer has said that "only - gourmets among women seem to like cheese, except farm women - and foreigners." The association between gourmets and farm - women is borne out by the following urgent plea from early - Italian landowners:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Ai contadini non far sapere</i><br /></span> - <span><i>Quanta è buono it cacio con le - pere</i>.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Don't let the peasants know<br /></span> - <span>How good are cheese and pears.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of - Taleggio, Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a - good dinner, with a juicy Lombardy pear or its American - equivalent, a Bartlett, let us say.</p> - - <p>This celestial association of cheese and pears is further - accented by the French:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Entre la poire et le fromage</i><br /></span> - <span>Between the pear and the cheese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, - in accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke - in his <i>Paroemiologia</i>:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>After cheese comes nothing.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>But in his <i>Epigrams</i> Ben Jonson serves them - together.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will - be.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>That brings us back to cheese and pippins:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I will make an end of my dinner; - there's<br /></span> <span>pippins and cheese to - come.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Shakespeare's <i>Merry Wives of - Windsor</i><br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>When should the cheese be served? In England it is served - before or after the fruit, with or without the port.</p> - - <p>Following <i>The Book of Keruynge</i> in modern spelling we - note when it was published in 1431 the proper thing "after - meat" was "pears, nuts, strawberries, whortleberries (American - huckle<!-- Page 127 --> - <a name="Page_127" - id="Page_127"></a>berries) and hard cheese." In modern - practice we serve some suitable cheese like Camembert - directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced - banana, Hablé spread on pineapple and a cheese - dessert tray to match the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy - down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, are figs, both fresh and - preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, kumquats, avocados, - fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, served in the - scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or pear - and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. - Pots of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your - own making being the best.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Champagned Roquefort or - Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ pound mellow Roquefort<br /> - ¼ pound sweet butter, softened<br /> - A dash cayenne<br /> - ¾ cup champagne</p> - - <p>With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth - paste, moistening with champagne as you go along, using a - little more or less champagne according to consistency - desired. Serve with the demitasse and cognac, offering, - besides crackers, gilt gingerbread in the style of Holland - Dutch cheese tasters, or just plain bread.</p> - </div> - - <p>After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are:</p> - - <p>FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, - Brie, Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, - apple brandy)</p> - - <p>FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar</p> - - <p>FROM SWEDEN: Hablé Crême Chantilly</p> - - <p>FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese</p> - - <p>FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval</p> - - <p><!-- Page 128 --><a name="Page_128" - id="Page_128"></a> FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss - Gruyère</p> - - <p>FROM GERMANY: Kümmelkäse</p> - - <p>FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost</p> - - <p>FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda</p> - - <p>FROM ENGLAND: Stilton</p> - - <p>FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 129 --><a name="Page_129" - id="Page_129"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/129.gif" - width="450" - height="308" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Nine</i> - </div> - - <h2>Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces</h2> - - <p>He who says <i>au gratin</i> says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the - English poet, saluted it two centuries ago with:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses - grow.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet - Parmesan, "as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit - in Sir W. Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of - September, more than a century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his - <i>Diary of a Country Parson</i> wrote:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and - he sent me back another large piece of fine Parmesan - cheese. It was very kind of him.</p> - </div> - - <p>The second most popular cheese for <i>au gratin</i> is - Italian Romano, and, for an entirely different flavor, Swiss - Sapsago. The <!-- Page 130 --><a name="Page_130" - id="Page_130"></a>French, who gave us this cookery term, use - it in its original meaning for any dish with a browned - topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In - America we think of <i>au gratin</i> as grated cheese only, - although Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed - with butter or cheese; as, potatoes <i>au gratin</i>." So - let us begin with that.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Potatoes au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>2 cups diced cooked potatoes<br /> - 2 tablespoons grated onion<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - 2 tablespoons butter<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 egg<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - More grated cheese for covering</p> - - <p>In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, - sprinkle with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a - thin layer of cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions - and butter. Stir milk, egg, salt and pepper together and - pour it on the mixture. Top everything with plenty of - grated cheese to make it authentically American <i>au - gratin</i>. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about - ½ hour.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Eggs au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour - over any desired number of eggs broken into a buttered - baking dish. Begin by using half of the sauce and - sprinkling on a lot of grated cheese. After the eggs are - in, pour on the rest of the sauce, cover it with grated - cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of butter, and cook - until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes).</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomatoes au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato - and sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, - season <!-- Page 131 --><a name="Page_131" - id="Page_131"></a> with salt, pepper and dots of butter, - add another layer of tomato slices, season as before and - continue this, alternating with cheese, until pan is - full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, cheese and - butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Onion Soup au Gratin</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>4 or 5 onions, sliced<br /> - 4 or 5 tablespoons butter<br /> - 1 quart stock or canned consommé<br /> - 1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes<br /> - Rounds of toasted French bread<br /> - 1½ cups grated Parmesan cheese</p> - - <p>Sauté onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until - light golden, and pour the stock over. When heated put in a - larger casserole, add the bouillon, season to taste and - heat to boiling point. Let simmer 15 minutes and serve in - deep well-heated soup plates, the bottoms covered with - rounds of toasted French bread which have been heaped with - freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the broiler. More - cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as desired.</p> - </div> - - <p>At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of - champagne are often added to the bouillon.</p> - - <p>In the famed onion soup <i>au gratin</i> at Les Halles in - Paris, grated Gruyère is used in place of Parmesan. They - are interchangeable in this recipe.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is - made by heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and - adding finely grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French - bread toasted and topped with more cheese and broiled - golden makes the best base to pour this over, as is done - with the French onion soup above.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 132 --><a name="Page_132" - id="Page_132"></a> The same cheese toasts are the basis - of a simple milk-cheese soup, with heated milk poured - over and a seasoning of salt, pepper, chopped chives, or - a dash of nutmeg.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Chicken Cheese Soup</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken - bouillon cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed - cream of chicken soup. Stir in ¼ cup grated American - Cheddar cheese and season with salt, pepper, and plenty of - paprika until cheese melts.</p> - - <p>Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese - to lima bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or - plain cheese soup with rice.</p> - </div> - - <p>Imported French <i>marmites</i> are <i>de rigueur</i> for a - real onion soup <i>au gratin</i>, and an imported Parmesan - grinder might be used for freshly ground cheese. In preparing, - it is well to remember that they are basically only melted - cheese, melted from the top down.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESE SALADS - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is</span> - <span>resting and in no hurry. He eats the</span> - <span>salad to prepare himself for the cheese.</span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span class="auth">Henri Charpentier,</span> - <span class="auth"><i>Life & la Henri</i>.</span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Green Cheese Salad - Julienne</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of - crisp lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone - cheese cut in thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 - hours in French dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue - cheese and toss everything thoroughly, with plenty of - French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 133 --><a name="Page_133" - id="Page_133"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>American Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with - shredded American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in - French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Nut Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats - and enough mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little - balls and serve with fruit salads, dusting lightly with - finely grated Sapsago.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Brie or Camembert - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie - or Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce - drenched with French dressing and scatter shredded almonds - over. (Cream cheese will do in a pinch. If the Camembert - isn't creamy enough, mash it with some sweet cream.)</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Three-in-One Mold</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>¾ cup cream cheese<br /> - ½ cup grated American Cheddar cheese<br /> - ½ cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled<br /> - 2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into<br /> - ½ cup boiling water<br /> - Juice of 1 lemon<br /> - Salt<br /> - Pepper<br /> - 2 cups cream, beaten stiff<br /> - ½ cup minced chives</p> - - <p>Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with - lemon, salt and pepper and stir into cheese with the - whipped cream. Add chives last Put in ring mold or any mold - you fancy, chill well and slice at table to serve on - lettuce with a little mayonnaise, or plain.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 134 --><a name="Page_134" - id="Page_134"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Swiss Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Dice ½ pound of cheese into ½-inch cubes. - Slice one onion very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash - with German mustard, olive oil, wine vinegar, - Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and grind in plenty of - black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a wooden spoon so - you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is drenched - with the dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Rosie's Swiss Breakfast - Cheese Salad</b></p> - - <p>Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished - specially by males on the morning after. We quote the original - recipe brought over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the - writers' and artists' colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her - brother Emil's White House Inn:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported - Emmentaler into half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported - French olive oil, German mustard and Swiss white wine - vinegar with salt and freshly ground pepper in a deep soup - plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper sauce scattered - in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes with a - light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising.</p> - - <p>The salad was ready to eat only when each and every - tiny, shiny cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been - washed, oiled and polished with the soothing mixture.</p> - - <p>"Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine - Breakfast Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It - is the best cure in the world for the worst hangover."</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Gorgonzola and Banana - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. - Sprinkle with lemon juice and spread with creamy - Gorgonzola. Sluice with French dressing made with lemon - juice in place of vinegar, to help bring out the natural - banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 135 --><a name="Page_135" - id="Page_135"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese and Pea Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cube ½ pound of American Cheddar and mix with a - can of peas, 1 cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, - ½ cup of sour cream, and 2 tablespoons each of - minced pimientos and sweet pickles. Serve in lettuce cups - with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped radishes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Apple and Cheese - Salad</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>½ cup cream cheese<br /> - 1 cup chopped pecans<br /> - Salt and pepper<br /> - Apples, sliced ½-inch thick<br /> - Lettuce leaves<br /> - Creamy salad dressing</p> - - <p>Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple - slices standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy - salad dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Roquefort Cheese Salad - Dressing</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American - favorite of Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed - with French dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar - and kept in the refrigerator to shake up on occasion and - toss over lettuce or other salads.</p> - </div> - - <p>Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, - complete with the picture of the sheep in red, and <i>garanti - véritable</i>, the dressing is often ruined by bad - vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all things). When bottled to - sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous spice, oils and mustard - flour are used where nothing more is necessary than the - manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good - vinegar—white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent - amateurs must have their splash of Worcestershire sauce or - lemon juice with salt and pepper. This Roquefort dressing is - good on all green salads, but on endive it's something - special.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 136 --><a name="Page_136" - id="Page_136"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sauce Mornay</b></p> - - <p>Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the - greatest culinary achievement in cheese."</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a - white sauce (the French Sauce Béchamel) and add - grated Parmesan to your liking, stirring it in until melted - and the sauce is creamy. This can be snapped up with - cayenne or minced parsley, and when used with fish a little - of the cooking broth is added.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Plain Cheese Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white - sauce</p> - - <p>This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or - hard-cooked eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 - parts of cheese to 4 of white sauce, it is delicious on - boiled cauliflower, baked potatoes, macaroni and crackers - soaked in milk.</p> - - <p>The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter - with the flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg - yolk in with the cheese.</p> - </div> - - <p>From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes:</p> - - <p><i>Thin</i>: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty - milk toast, sometimes spiced with curry.</p> - - <p><i>Medium</i>: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in - milk.</p> - - <p><i>Thick</i>: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured - generously over bread toasted on one side only, with the - untoasted side up, to let the sauce sink in.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parsleyed Cheese - Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven - the cabbage family—hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage - and Brussels sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled - over.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 137 --><a name="Page_137" - id="Page_137"></a></p> - - <div class="cats"> - CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - </div> - - <p>Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a - bounteous cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not - indispensable, recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or - overlooked or crowded out of the main sections devoted to the - classic Fondues, Rabbits, Soufflés, etc.</p> - - <p><br /> - <i>Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable - Stalks</i></p> - - <p>Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by - pressing through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with - any seasoning or relish.</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>SUGGESTIONS:</p> - - <p>Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or - all three, with or without a touch of Worcestershire.</p> - - <p>Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce.</p> - - <p>Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, - minced capers, pickles, or minced ham.</p> - - <p>Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for - your favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. - This last is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese - creamed with sweet butter.</p> - - <p>All canapé butters are ideally suited to stuffing - stalks. Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed.</p> - - <p>A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the - leafy tops off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or - anything similarly suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but - keep them in order, to reassemble in the head after each is - stuffed with a different mixture, using any of the above, - or a tangy mix of your own concoction.</p> - </div> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <!-- Page 138 --><a name="Page_138" - id="Page_138"></a> - - <p>After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby - center ones, press them together in the form of the - original head, tie tight, and chill. When ready, slice in - rolls about 8-inch thick and arrange as a salad on a bed of - water cress or lettuce, moistened with French dressing.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cold Dunking</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be - had by moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or - lemon in a dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently - liquefied, it is liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, - chives, onions, pimiento and/or other relish. Then a couple - of tins of anchovies are macerated and stirred in, oil and - all.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheese Charlotte</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted - slices of bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet - butter with 2 eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of - grated cheese. Bake until golden brown in slow oven.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Straws</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, - fold and roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese - each time. Chill dough in refrigerator and cut in - straw-size strips. Stiffly salt a beaten egg yolk and glaze - with that to give a salty taste. Bake for several minutes - until crisp.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Supa Shetgia</b> - <a name="FNanchor_B_2" - id="FNanchor_B_2"></a> <a href="#Footnote_B_2" - class="fnanchor">[B]</a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><i>This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and - little known in this country. One of its seasonings is - nutmeg and until one has used it in cheese dishes, it is - hard to describe how perfectly - <!-- Page 139 --><a name="Page_139" - id="Page_139"></a> it gives that extra something. The - recipe, as given, is for each plate, but there is no - reason why the old-fashioned tureen could not be used - and the quantities simply increased</i>.</p> - - <p>Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into - a soup plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or - shredded Swiss cheese. Place another slice of bread on top - of this and pour over it some boiling milk. Cover the plate - and let it stand for several minutes. Season with salt, - pepper and nutmeg. Serve topped with browned, hot butter. - Use whole nutmeg and grate it freshly.</p> - </div> - - <div class="footnote"> - <p><a name="Footnote_B_2" - id="Footnote_B_2"></a> - <a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> - (from <i>Cheese Cookery</i>, by Helmut Ripperger)</p> - </div> - - <div class="cats"> - WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - </div> - - <p>Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their - dishes, from soups to spaghetti—and indeed any - vegetable—that a shaker of grated Parmesan, Romano or - reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, or is served - freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup might be - called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great - minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable - ingredient along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney - beans, celery, olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, - and so forth.</p> - - <p>Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential - in the Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's - served up as a separate tidbit with the meats.</p> - - <p>Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other - people, as the French are wont to use more wine in cooking.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Pfeffernüsse and - Caraway</b></p> - - <p>The gingery little "pepper nuts," <i>pfeffernüsse</i>, - imported from Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of - the best accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For - contrast try a dish of caraway.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 140 --><a name="Page_140" - id="Page_140"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Diablotins</b></p> - - <p>Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound - of grated cheese and browned in the oven is a French - contribution.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - CHEESE OMELETS - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheddar Omelet</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has - just begun to cook, dust over it evenly ½ cup grated - Cheddar.<br /> - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland - omelet.<br /> - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one.<br /> - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what - might be called a Wild Omelet.<br /> - Cook as usual. Fold and serve.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> - (mild)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cook as above, but use ¼ cup only of Parmesan, - grated fine, in place of the ½ cup Cheddar.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Parmesan Omelet</b> (full - flavored)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>As above, but use ½ cup Parmesan, finely grated, - as follows: Sift ¼ cup of the Parmesan into your egg - mixture at the beginning and dust on the second ¼ - cup evenly, just as the omelet begins to set.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>A Meal-in-One Omelet</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Fry ½ dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while - frying a cup of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to - equal crispness. <!-- Page 141 --><a name="Page_141" - id="Page_141"></a>Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of - 3 eggs, beaten, and 1½ tablespoons of shredded - Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 tablespoon of - chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Tomato and</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh - tomato and dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put - under broiler until cheese melts to a golden brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Omelet with Cheese - Sauce</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when - finished, cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white - sauce in which ¼ pound of shredded cheese has been - melted, and mixed well with ½ cup cooked, diced - celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced.</p> - </div> - - <p>The French use grated Gruyère for this with all sorts - of sauces, such as the <i>Savoyar de Savoie</i>, with potatoes, - chervil, tarragon and cream. A delicious appearance and added - flavor can be had by browning with a salamander.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Spanish - Flan—Quesillo</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>FOR THE CARAMEL:<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> - 4 tablespoons water<br /> - <br /> - FOR THE FLAN:<br /> - 4 eggs, beaten separately<br /> - 2 cups hot milk<br /> - ½ cup sugar<br /> - Salt</p> - - <p>Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour - it into a baking mold.</p> - - <p>Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven - about ¾ hour.</p> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 142 --><a name="Page_142" - id="Page_142"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Italian Fritto Misto</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made - with whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or - tidbits of meat are at hand, say a half dozen different - cubes of meat and giblets, with as many hearts of - artichokes, <i>finocchi</i>, tomato, and different - vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk of - melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Polish Piroghs</b> (a - pocketful of cheese)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll - out very thin and cut in 2-inch squares.</p> - - <p>Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of - melted butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful - of seedless currents.</p> - - <p>Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight - together to make little pockets.</p> - - <p>Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, - and boil steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the - pockets won't burst open.</p> - - <p>Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted - butter and a sprinkling of bread crumbs.</p> - - <p>This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes.</p> - </div> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Cheesed Mashed - Potatoes</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed - potatoes some old Cheddar with melted butter and a - crumbling of crisp, cooked bacon.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - - <p>If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can - be made via a</p> - - <p><!-- Page 143 --><a name="Page_143" - id="Page_143"></a> <img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Sautéed Swiss - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of - thickly buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, - surround it with one well-beaten egg, slide it into - sizzling butter and fry on both sides. A chef at the New - York Athletic Club once improved on this by first - sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and a slice of - chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in - this until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet - butter made strong men cry for it.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 144 --><a name="Page_144" - id="Page_144"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/144.gif" - width="450" - height="338" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Ten</i> - </div> - - <h2>Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories,<br /> - Snacks, Spreads and Toasts</h2> - - <p>In America cheese got its start in country stores in our - cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, - pick up the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the - big-bellied rattrap cheese standing under its glass bell or - wire mesh hood that kept the flies off but not the - free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too palatable, the - taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo the cat - off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be - beat today.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 145 --><a name="Page_145" - id="Page_145"></a> At that time Wisconsin still belonged to - the Indians and Vermont was our leading cheese state, with - its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont Country Store Crackers, as - Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. When Orton heard - we were writing this book, he sent samples from the store - his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. - Together with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese - and the Sage came a handy handmade Cracker Basket, all - wicker, ten crackers long and just one double cracker wide. - A snug little casket for those puffy, old-time, two-in-one - soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the taste of the - accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's made - to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on - one half and another on t'other, or sandwich them - between.</p> - - <p>Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the - corner saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never - faltered till Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was - soon pepped up as saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, - bowls of pickles, peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with - plenty of mustard, pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and - schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese forever together, as in the - free-lunch ditty of that great day:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I am an Irish hunter;<br /></span> <span>I am, I - ain't.<br /></span> <span>I do not hunt for - deer<br /></span> <span>But beer.<br /></span> - <span>Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag.<br /></span> - </div> - - <div class="stanza"> - <span>I do not hunt for fleas<br /></span> <span>But - cheese.<br /></span> <span>Oh, Adolph, bring the free - lunch.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p>It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to - coast. In every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, - Limburger—manly cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that - could sit up and beg, golden yellow, tangy mellow, always cut - in cubes. <!-- Page 146 --><a name="Page_146" - id="Page_146"></a>Cheese takes the cube form as naturally as - eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon.</p> - - <p>On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely - cubes, free Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to - lead the tired businessman in by the nose; or a smear of - Canadian Snappy out of a pure white porcelain pot in the classy - places, on a Bent's water biscuit.</p> - - <div class="cats"> - SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - </div> - - <p>Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of - which there is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us - consume most of our country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar - and Swiss. To attempt to classify and describe all of these - would be impossible, so we will content ourselves by picking a - few of the cold and hot, the plain and the fancy, the familiar - and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum up the - situation.</p> - - <p><br /> - <b>A Alpine Club Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick - slice of imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, - and the usual club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of - chicken or turkey, tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>B Boston Beany, Open-face</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it - generously with hot baked beans and a thick layer of - shredded Cheddar. Top with bacon and put under a slow - broiler until cheese melts and the bacon crisps.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>C Cheeseburgers</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin - and, using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a - nice <!-- Page 147 --><a name="Page_147" - id="Page_147"></a>slice of American Cheddar well covered - with mustard. Crimp edges of the hamburgers all around - to hold in the cheese when it melts and begins to run. - Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, toasted - sandwich buns.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>D Deviled Rye</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot - oven. Cool until crisp again. Then spread thickly with - cream cheese, bedeviled with catsup, paprika or - pimiento.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>E Egg, Open-faced</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Sauté minced small onion and small green pepper - in 2 tablespoons of butter and make a sauce by cooking with - a cup of canned tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. - Fry 4 eggs and put one in the center of each of 4 pieces of - hot toast spread with the red sauce. Sprinkle each - generously with grated Cheddar, broil until melted and - serve with crisp bacon.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>F French-fried Swiss</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported - Gruyère, soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry - slowly till cheese melts and the sandwich is nicely - browned. This is a specialty of Franche-Comté.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them - on both sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked - chicken, ½ slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a - sprinkling of minced ham. Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut - in half and dip thoroughly in a mixture of egg and milk. - Grill golden on both sides and serve with lengthwise slices - of dill pickle.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <!-- Page 148 --><a name="Page_148" - id="Page_148"></a> <b>H He-man Sandwich, - Open-faced</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a - layer of mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then - one of Swiss cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped - with mustard and a sowing of capers.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>I International Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, - cover soft, untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread - lightly with mustard, top that with a wheel of Bermuda - onion and 1 or 2 slices of Italian-type tomato. Season with - cayenne and salt, dot with butter, cover with Brazil nuts - and brown under the broiler.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>J Jurassiennes, or Croûtes - Comtoises</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture - of onion browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with - grated Gruyère. Simmer until cheese melts, and - serve.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>K Kümmelkäse</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish - slab of Milwaukee Kümmelkäse, which translates - caraway cheese. For good measure sprinkle caraway seeds on - top, or serve them in a saucer on the side. Then dash on a - splash of kümmel, the caraway liqueur that's best when - imported.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French - dressing for ½ hour. Then butter slices of rye, - spread well with soft Limburger, top with onion and you - will have something super-duper—if you like - Limburger. <!-- Page 149 --><a name="Page_149" - id="Page_149"></a></p> - - <p>When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the - sandwich has quite another character and flavor, so true - Limburger addicts make one of each and take alternate bites - for the thrill of contrast.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>M Meringue, Open-faced</b> (from the Browns' - <i>10,000 Snacks</i>)</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 - slice of bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter - on untoasted side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over - butter, and the yolk of an egg in the center. Beat egg - white stiff with a few grains of salt and pile lightly on - top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons of grated cheese over - that and bake in moderate oven until the egg white is firm - and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>N Neufchâtel and Honey</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with - thin, decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, - then with Neufchâtel topped with some fine - honey—Mount Hymettus, if possible.</p> - - <p>Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the - Neufchâtel, but nothing will take the place of the - honey to make this heavenly sandwich that must have been - the original ambrosia.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>O Oskar's Ham-Cam</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists - 186 superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all - its own, perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy - ham sandwiches, open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, - sweet or sour, almost any one-way slice you desire. He uses - as many contrasting kinds of bread as possible, and his - butter varies from salt to fresh and whipped. The Ham-Cam - base involves "a juicy, tender slice of freshly boiled, - mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on the ham - as thick as velvet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 150 --><a name="Page_150" - id="Page_150"></a> The Ham-Cam is built up with such - splendors as "goose liver paste and Madeira wine jelly," - "fried calves' kidney and <i>rémoulade</i>," - "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," "a - slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira - jelly, with anything else you say, just so long as it - does credit to Camembert on ham.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>P Pickled Camembert</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread - with ripe imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't - summer). Make a mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, - finely chopped, and spread it on. Top this with a thin - slice of white bread for pleasing contrast with the - black.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, - crusty white bread place thick portions of any good - Portuguese cheese made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." - This last translates back into Queijo da Serra, the - fattest, finest cheese in the world—on a par with - fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy cheese lightly - with imported capers, and you'll say it's scrumptious.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>R Roquefort Nut</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of - genuine Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine - Hungarian paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 - minutes. Finish it off with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or - a mixture thereof.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin - rye, or a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, - spread with sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked - cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 151 --><a name="Page_151" - id="Page_151"></a> Hickory is preferred for most of the - smoking in America. In New York the best smoked cheese, - whether from Canada or nearer home, is usually cured in - the same room with sturgeon. Since this king of smoked - fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to - sandwiching as above.</p> - - <p>Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good - with cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a - salubrious savor, while a sandwich of smoked turkey with - smoked cheese is out of this world. We accompany it with a - cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong China tea.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>T Tangy Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay - thinly sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef - with horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old - chopped chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on - every cheese sandwich, try different kinds for a change: - sharp English freshly mixed by your own hand out of the tin - of powder, or Dijon for a French touch.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>U Unusual Sandwich—of Flowers, Hay and - Clover</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a - layer of equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with - petals of rose, marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with - French Fromage de foin. This French hay cheese gets its - name from being ripened on hay and holds its new-mown - scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers (the smaller they - are, the better), with a little of the luscious juice, and - dust lightly with Sapsago.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>V Vegetarian Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of - store cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with - chopped <!-- Page 152 --><a name="Page_152" - id="Page_152"></a>chives, and anything else in the - Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms that suits your fancy.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>W Witch's Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin - slice of imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop - or two of tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled - ham and press it together with the cheese between the two - bread slices, put in a hot oven and serve piping hot with a - handful of "moonstones"—those outsize pearl - onions.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>X Xochomilco Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a - drop to be had that's native to the festive, floating - gardens near Mexico City. For there, instead of the cow, a - sort of century plant gives milky white <i>pulque</i>, the - fermented juice of this cactuslike desert plant. With this - goes a vegetable cheese curded by its own vegetable rennet. - It's called tuna cheese, made from the milky juice of the - prickly pear that grows on yet another cactuslike plant of - the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes teams up in arid - lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced into a - tortilla sandwich. The milky <i>pulque</i> of Xochomilco - goes as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese - sandwich.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with - cream cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt - and a touch of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole - wheat bread.</p> - </div> - - <p><br /> - <b>Z Zebra</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your - own Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those - oft-photoed <!-- Page 153 --><a name="Page_153" - id="Page_153"></a>skins in El Morocco. Just alternate - stripes of black bread with various white cheeses in - between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern.</p> - </div> - - <p>For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese - sandwiches.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Toasted Cheese - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and - sandwich between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp - cheese, egg yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with - stiffly beaten egg white folded in last to make a light - filling. Fry the buttered sandwich in more butter until - well melted and nicely gilded.</p> - </div> - - <p>This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The - French, who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their - own in the form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an - 'arf and 'arf Welsh Rabbit and Fondue melting of - Gruyère, that serves as a liaison to further sandwich - the two.</p> - - <p>Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in - contrast to this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch - cream cheese by the equally Dutch Pennsylvanians.</p> - - <p>England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time - honors with such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as - Devonshire and Dunlop. Even British Newfoundland is known for - its simple version, that's quite as pleasing as its rich Prince - Edward Island Oyster Stew.</p> - - <p><img src="images/pointer.gif" - width="58" - height="41" - alt="picture: pointer" /> <b>Newfoundland Toasted Cheese - Sandwich</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>1 pound grated Cheddar<br /> - 1 egg, well beaten<br /> - ½ cup milk<br /> - 1 tablespoon butter</p> - - <p>Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast.</p> - </div> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 154 --><a name="Page_154" - id="Page_154"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/154.gif" - width="391" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Eleven</i> - </div> - - <h2>"Fit for Drink"</h2> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese - fit for drink.</p> - </div> - - <p>Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, - according to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple - and sheep's milk cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese - has always been Feta, and no doubt this was the kind that Circe - combined most suitably with wine to make a farewell drink for - her lovers. She put further sweetness and body into the stirrup - cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. Today we might - whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory.</p> - - <p>While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of - many, France, Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and - honey, suit a lot of gourmets better. Indeed, in such - vinous-caseous places cheese is on the house at all wine sales - for prospective customers to snack upon and thus bring out the - full flavor of the <!-- Page 155 --><a name="Page_155" - id="Page_155"></a>cellared vintages. But professional wine - tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They may - clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of - Roquefort or cube of Gruyère in working hours, lest - it give the wine a spurious nobility.</p> - - <p>And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanée has the closest - affinity for it. Such affinities are also found in Pont - l'Evêque and Beaujolais, Brie and red champagne, - Coulommiers and any good <i>vin rosé</i>. Heavenly - marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of - both Côtes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses - such as Epoisses, Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and - Port-Salut seem to be made for each other, as do Château - Margaux and Camembert.</p> - - <p>A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings - together in the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte - Maure, Valençay, Vendôme and the Loire - wines—Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyère mates - with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, - most commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other - fine French cheeses.</p> - - <p>Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard - being Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, - French Neufchâtel cheese and Swiss Neuchâtel wine - from just across the border. Switzerland also has another - cheese favorite at home—Trauben (grape cheese), named - from the Neuchâtel wine in which it is aged.</p> - - <p>One kind of French Neufchâtel cheese, Bondon, is also - uniquely suited to the company of any good wine because it is - made in the exact shape and size of a wine barrel bung. A - similar relation is found in Brinzas (or Brindzas) that are - packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly suggesting what - should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian Tokay. - Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The - affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven.</p> - - <p>Only the English seem to have a <i>fortissimo</i> taste in - the go-with wines, according to these matches registered by - André Simon in <i>The Art of Good Living:</i></p> - - <p><!-- Page 156 --><a name="Page_156" - id="Page_156"></a></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port<br /> - White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry<br /> - Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port<br /> - Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - </div> - - <p>To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with - nips of Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer.</p> - - <p>The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other - wines and liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads - to fraudulent imitation, however, for either port or stout is - put into counterfeit Cheshire cheese to make up for the - richness it lacks.</p> - - <p>While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out - palatable, we prefer taking ours straight. When something more - fiery is needed we can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a - chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig and nibble on legitimate Danzig - cheese unadulterated. <i>Goldwasser</i>, or Eau de Vie, was a - favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin Roosevelt, and we - can be sure he took the two separately.</p> - - <p>Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported - kümmel with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese - with a handy saucer of caraway seeds. In the section of France - devoted to gin, the juniper berries that flavor the drink also - go into a local cheese, Fromage Fort. This is further fortified - with brandy, white wine and pepper. One regional tipple with - such brutally strong cheese is black coffee laced with gin.</p> - - <p>French la Jonchée is another potted thriller with not - only coffee and rum mixed in during the making, but orange - flower water, too. Then there is la Petafina, made with brandy - and absinthe; Hazebrook with brandy alone; and la Cachat with - white wine and brandy.</p> - - <p>In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with - brandy. In Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by - port, Cider and the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made - to go the regional Calvados cheese. This is also true of our - native Jersey Lightning and hard cider with their accompanying - New <!-- Page 157 --><a name="Page_157" - id="Page_157"></a>York State cheese. In the Auge Valley of - France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own - Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Evêque.</p> - - <p>The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British - cheese. Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and - buttermilk do go well together.</p> - - <p>Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and - some cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses - no less than vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 158 --><a name="Page_158" - id="Page_158"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/158.gif" - width="450" - height="390" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Chapter<br /> - Twelve</i> - </div> - - <h2>Lazy Lou</h2> - - <p>Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger - unworthy of his heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior - "Swiss" made somewhere in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had - worsened on the voyage. Rejected by the health authorities on - the other side, it was shipped back, reaching home in the - unhappy condition known as "cracked." To cut his losses the - rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and its flavor - disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there came - into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread."</p> - - <p>The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed - cheese, are handy, cheap and nasty. They are available every - <!-- Page 159 --> - <a name="Page_159" - id="Page_159"></a>where and some people even like them. So - any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of their - existence. I have done so—and now, an unfond farewell - to them.</p> - - <p>My academic cheese education began at the University of - Wisconsin in 1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I - have read with profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the - learned Aggies of my Alma Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, - natural cheeses: the making, keeping and enjoying of authentic - Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and naturalized Limburgers.</p> - - <p>At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, - keep their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese - board. One booklet recommends the following for freshman - contemplation:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese board layout" - cellpadding="4"> - <tr> - <td align="left">CARAWAY BRICK</td> - - <td align="left">SELECT BRICK</td> - - <td align="left">EDAM</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">WISCONSIN SWISS</td> - - <td align="left">LONGHORN AMERICAN</td> - - <td align="left">SHEFFORD</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate - any amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better - with German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To - butter or not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? - Salt or sweet? How close do we come to the excellence of the - genuine Alpine Swiss? Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of - thought.</p> - - <p>Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your - cheese board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two - boards; play the teams against each other.</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="The All-American Champs" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>The All-American Champs</b></td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">NEW YORK COON</td> - - <td align="left">PHILADELPHIA CREAM</td> - - <td align="left">OHIO LIEDERKRANZ</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">VERMONT SAGE</td> - - <td align="left">KENTUCKY TRAPPIST</td> - - <td align="left">WISCONSIN LIMBURGER</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="right">CALIFORNIA JACK</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">PINEAPPLE</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="right">MINNESOTA BLUE</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">BRICK</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="center">TILLAMOOK</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - </table> - - <p><!-- Page 160 --><a name="Page_160" - id="Page_160"></a></p> - - <p class="center"><b>VS.</b></p> - - <table summary="The European Giants" - cellpadding="4"> - <tr> - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left"><b>The European Giants</b></td> - - <td align="left"></td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">PORTUGUESE TRAZ-</td> - - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> - - <td align="left">ITALIAN PARMESAN</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left"> OS-MONTES</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS EMMENTALER</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3" align="left">YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3"> - <table summary="more cheese" - width="80%" - cellpadding="2"> - <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">DANISH BLUE</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">GERMAN MÜNSTER</td> - - <td align="left"></td> - - <td align="left">GREEK FETA</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="3" - align="center">HABLÉ</td> - </tr> - </table> - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the - great and distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. - Your Scandinavian board alone, just to give an idea of the - riches available, will shine with blues, yellows, whites, smoky - browns, and chocolates representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, - Finland, Iceland and Lapland.</p> - - <p>For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to - crown the banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane - his own regal Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, - during and after all three meals. You may prefer to finish with - a delicate Brie, a smoky slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby - Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, about which more later.</p> - - <p>We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, - a giant roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A - second Lazy Lou will bear the savories and go-withs. For these - tidbits the English have a divine genius; think of the deviled - shrimps, smoked oysters, herring roe on toast, snips of broiled - sausage ... But we will make do with some olives and radishes, - a few pickles, nuts, capers. With our two trusty Lazy Lous on - hand plus wine or beer, we can easily dispense with the mere - dinner itself.</p> - - <p>Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily - burdened with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing - the imprint of its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but - Incanestrato peppered; Mel Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno - with its slightly burned flavor; tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so - called because the the cheeses, tied in pairs and hung over a - pole, look as though they <!-- Page 161 --><a name="Page_161" - id="Page_161"></a> were sitting in a saddle—cheese on - horseback, or "<i>cacio a cavallo</i>." Then we ring in Lazy - Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving - Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic - flask of Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is - before you. Gently pull it down and hold your glass to the - spout.</p> - - <p>True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native - American products and reasonably edible imitations of the real - thing are available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for - protein, a cheese party will cost less than a steak barbecue. - And it can be more fun.</p> - - <p>Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest - discoveries. One may bring along as his ticket of admission a - Primavera from Brazil; another some cubes of an Andean - specialty just flown in from Colombia's mountain city, - Mérida, and still wrapped in its aromatic leaves of - <i>Frailejón Lanudo</i>; another a few wedges of savory - sweet English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, - others with marigolds; another a tube of South American - Kräuterkäse.</p> - - <p>Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include - some of those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country - stores in New England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if - <i>.you</i> like it. If you want to be fancy, use a tricky - little gadget put out by the Maille condiment-makers in France - and available here in the food specialty shops. It's a - miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of different - shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, in - proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; - "Green Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson - "Tomato-flavored."</p> - - <p>And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique - whirling cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy - sauce, A-1, Tap Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers - and pepper mills are handy, with a big-holed tin canister - filled with crushed red-pepper pods, chili powder, - Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, both sweet - and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of curry, - capers, chives (sliced, not <!-- Page 162 --><a name="Page_162" - id="Page_162"></a>chopped), minced onion, fresh mint leaves, - chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh - tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and - black olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats.</p> - - <p>Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, - Cora, and my wife, Rose, in writing <i>10,000 Snacks</i> - (which, by the way, devotes nearly forty pages to cheeses), we - staged a rather elaborate tasting party just for the three of - us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to twirl the load.</p> - - <p>The eight wedges on the top round were English and French - samples and the lower one carried the rest, as follows:</p> - - <div class="center"> - <table summary="cheese tasting Lazy Lou" - cellpadding="8"> - <tr> - <td align="left">ENGLISH CHEDDAR</td> - - <td align="left">CHESHIRE</td> - - <td align="left">ENGLISH STILTON</td> - - <td align="left">CANADIAN CHEDDAR (rum flavored)</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">FRENCH MÜNSTER</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH BRIE</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH CAMEMBERT</td> - - <td align="left">FRENCH ROQUEFORT</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">SWISS SAPSAGO</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS GRUYERE</td> - - <td align="left">SWISS EDAM</td> - - <td align="left">DUTCH GOUDA</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td align="left">ITALIAN PROVOLONE</td> - - <td align="left">CZECH OSTIEPKI</td> - - <td align="left">ITALIAN GORGONZOLA</td> - - <td align="left">NORWEGIAN GJETOST</td> - </tr> - - <tr> - <td colspan="4" - align="center">HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER</td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - - <p>The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires - and Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, - graters, scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line - of crumbly Britishers fingers were best.</p> - - <p>The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like - our best domestic "bar cheese" of old.</p> - - <p>The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented - flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's - Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton - was strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price.</p> - - <p>Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by - courtesy English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a - bridegroom <!-- Page 163 --><a name="Page_163" - id="Page_163"></a> in waxed white paper and looked as smooth - and glossy as a gardenia. But there its beauty ended. Either - the rum that flavored it wasn't up to much or the mixture - hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally.</p> - - <p>The French Münster, however, was hearty, cheery, and - better made than most German Münster, which at that time - wasn't being exported much by the Nazis. The Brie was melting - prime, the Camembert was so perfectly matured we ate every - scrap of the crust, which can't be done with many American - "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones sold - out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted - the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. - A plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in - scent, stimulatingly bittersweet in taste—unbeatable. - There is no American pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is - invariably chalky and tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no - good Blues. We have. But they are not Roquefort.</p> - - <p>The Sapsago or Kräuterkäse from Switzerland (it - has been made in the Canton of Glarus for over five hundred - years) was the least expensive of the lot. Well-cured and dry, - it lent itself to grating and tasted fine on an old-fashioned - buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own seduction, derived - from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is mixed and - which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like sage-green - color.</p> - - <p>Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyère, delicately - rich, and nutty enough to make us think of the sharp white - wines to be drunk with it at the source.</p> - - <p>As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk - that makes it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. - Perfumed as spring flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, - having a bouquet all its own and a trace of a winelike kick, it - made us vow never to taste another American imitation. Only a - smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a pedigreed Italian - Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and with no sign of - a crack, satisfy the gourmet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 164 --><a name="Page_164" - id="Page_164"></a> The second Italian classic was - Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as fruity as apples, - peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so much like a - ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the - crumbly <i>formaggio</i> lightly forked into the fruit, - split lengthwise.</p> - - <p>After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint - job on its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both - too obviously ready-made for commerce with nothing individual - or custom-made about them, rolled or bounced over from Holland - by the boat load.</p> - - <p>The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of - smoked ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. - In spite of its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't - think of any use for it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty - cents' worth into a ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed - like a waste of money, so we set it aside to try in tiny chunks - on crackers as an appetizer some other day, when it might be - more appetizing.</p> - - <p>We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian - Gjetost that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and - which had the same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by - a native that our piece was entirely too young. That's what - made it so insipid, undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the - next piece we got turned out to be too old and decrepit, and so - strong it would have taken a Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. - When we complained to our expert about the shock to our - palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail on his little - finger.</p> - - <p>"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no - bigger than a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only - in the morning you take it when it's old and strong like this, - for a pick-me-up, a cure for a hangover, you know, like a - prairie oyster well soused in Worcestershire."</p> - - <p>That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh - Rabbit, <i>instead</i> of the Worcestershire sauce, but we - couldn't melt it with anything less than a blowtorch.</p> - - <p>To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the - <!-- Page 165 --><a name="Page_165" - id="Page_165"></a> Hungarian Liptauer, garnishing that fine, - granulating buttery base after mixing it well with some - cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with sardine and - tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. We - juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked - in the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, - capers and chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and - spiced it, then spread it thicker than butter on - pumpernickel and went to it. <i>That's</i> Liptauer - Garniert.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 166 --><a name="Page_166" - id="Page_166"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/166.gif" - width="450" - height="290" - alt="No. 4 Cheese Inc." /> - </div> - - <div class="rightalign"> - <i>Appendix</i> - </div> - - <h2>The A-B-Z of Cheese</h2> - - <p><i>Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, - with any further information available. Unless otherwise - indicated, the cheese is made of cow's milk.</i></p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_A" - id="AtoZ_A"></a><br /> - A</h3> - - <p><b>Aberdeen</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Soft; creamy mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Abertam</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i> <i>(Made near Carlsbad</i>)</p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its - own.</p> - - <p><b>Absinthe</b> <i>see</i> Petafina.</p> - - <p><b>Acidophilus</b> <i>see</i> Saint-Ivel.</p> - - <p><b>Aettekees</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>November to May—winter-made and eaten.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 167 --><a name="Page_167" - id="Page_167"></a> <b>Affiné, Carré</b> - <i>see</i> Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Affumicata, Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella.</p> - - <p><b>After-dinner cheeses</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Agricultural school cheeses</b> <i>see</i> - College-educated.</p> - - <p><b>Aiguilles, Fromage d'</b><br /> - <i>Alpine France</i></p> - - <p>Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of - the district where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Aizy, Cendrée d'</b> <i>see</i> - Cendrée.</p> - - <p><b>Ajacilo, Ajaccio</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of - French Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born.</p> - - <p><b>à la Crème</b> <i>see</i> Fromage, Fromage - Blanc, Chevretons.</p> - - <p><b>à la Main</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin.</p> - - <p><b>à la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>à la Rachette</b> <i>see</i> Bagnes.</p> - - <p><b>Albini</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, - pleasant-tasting table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Albula</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into - creamy milk that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss - Valley of Albula whose proud name it bears.</p> - - <p><b>Alderney</b><br /> - <i>Channel Islands</i></p> - - <p>The French, who are fond of this special product of the very - special breed of cattle <!-- Page 168 --><a name="Page_168" - id="Page_168"></a> named after the Channel Island of - Alderney, translate it phonetically—Fromage - d'Aurigny.</p> - - <p><b>Alemtejo</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in - the same way that so many French cheeses carry along the - <i>fromage</i> title. Soft; sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in - cylinders of three sizes, weighing respectively about two - ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller sizes are the - ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The method - of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and - unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet - made from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is - used in two other Portuguese cheeses—Queijo da Cardiga - and Queijo da Serra da Estrella—and probably in many - others not known beyond their locale. In France la Caillebotte - is distinguished for being clabbered with <i>chardonnette</i>, - wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so much - separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks - for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and - difference in sizes.</p> - - <p><b>Alfalfa</b> <i>see</i> Sage.</p> - - <p><b>Alise Saint-Reine</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; summer-made.</p> - - <p><b>Allgäuer Bergkäse, Allgäuer Rundkäse, - or Allgäuer Emmentaler</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgäu - names a mountain of cheeses almost as fabulous as our - "Rock-candy Mountain." There are two principal kinds, vintage - Allgäuer Bergkäse <!-- Page 169 --> - <a name="Page_169" - id="Page_169"></a>and soft Allgäuer Rahmkäse, - described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through - rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of - the Emme that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the - world's greatest. So it is no wonder that Allgäuer - Bergkäse can compete with the best Swiss. Before the - Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of - Allgäu were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and - kept in their home caves in separate compartments for each - year, as far back as the early 1900's. As with fine vintage - wines, the price of the great years went up steadily. Such - cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only when the - chief cheese-pluggers of Allgäu found they had reached - their prime.</p> - - <p><b>Allgäuer Rahmkäse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder - than both. This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in - the Bavarian mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes - exquisitely with the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as - slippery as the stronger, smellier Bierkäse, or the - old-time Slipcote of England. Like so many North Europeans, it - is often flavored with caraway. Although entirely different - from its big brother, vintage Bergkäse, Rahmkäse can - stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses in - Germany.</p> - - <p><b>Alpe</b> <i>see</i> Fiore di Alpe.</p> - - <p><b>Al Pepe</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato - (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 170 --><a name="Page_170" - id="Page_170"></a> <b>Alpes</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bel Paese.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestra</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like - whatever fish it was smoked with. The French Alps has a - different Alpestre; Italy spells hers Alpestro.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briançon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at - Briançon and Gap.</p> - - <p><b>Alpestro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted.</p> - - <p><b>Alpin or Clérimbert</b><br /> - <i>Alpine France</i></p> - - <p>The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two - hours. The curd is dipped into molds three to four inches in - diameter and two and a half inches in height, allowed to drain, - turned several times for one day only, then salted and ripened - one to two weeks.</p> - - <p><b>Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; small and flat—one to two inches thick, - eight inches in diameter, weight two pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Alt Kuhkäse Old Cow Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests.</p> - - <p><b>Altsohl</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert</b><br /> - <i>Limagne, Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to - the Cantal—Fourme-La Tome tribe.</p> - - <p><b>American, American Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Described under their home states and distinctive names are - a dozen fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wiscon - <!-- Page 171 --> - <a name="Page_171" - id="Page_171"></a>sin, Herkimer County and Tillamook, to - name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, with - traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, - Midgets, Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called - Cheddars weigh about sixty pounds. All are made and pressed - and ripened in about the same way, although they differ - greatly in flavor and quality. They are ripened anywhere - from two months to two years and become sharper, richer and - more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the passing - of time. <i>See</i> Cheddar states and Cheddar types in - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Americano Romano</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard; brittle; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Amou</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>Winter cheese, October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Anatolian</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Anchovy Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>American processed cheese that can be mixed up with - anchovies or any fish from whitebait to whale, made like a - sausage and sold in handy links.</p> - - <p><b>Ancien Impérial</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like - Neufchâtel and made in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged - in tin foil, two inches square, one-half inch thick, weighing - three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when ripe. It is also called - Carré and has separate names for the new and the old: - (a) Petit Carré when newly made; (b) Carré - Affiné, when it has reached a ripe old age, which - doesn't take long—about the same time as - Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 172 --><a name="Page_172" - id="Page_172"></a><b>Ancona</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Andean</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Mérida. It is - formed into rough cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic - leaves of <i>Frailejón Lanudo</i> (<i>Espeletia - Schultzii</i>) which imparts to it a characteristic flavor. - (Description given in <i>Buen Provecho!</i> by Dorothy - Kamen-Kaye.)</p> - - <p><b>Andechs</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>A lusty Allgäuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill - at Andechs on Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish - dark beer, black bread and blacker radishes, served by the - brothers in dark brown robes.</p> - - <p><b>Antwerp</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin.</p> - - <p><b>Appenzeller</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound - wheel—a pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. - There are two qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and - cured in brine for a year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in - brine with wine, plus white wine lees and pepper. The only - cheese we know of that is ripened with lees of wine.</p> - - <p><b>Appetitost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that - lives up to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose - bottom pans in which it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Appetost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds - added for snap. Imitated in U.S.A.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 173 --><a name="Page_173" - id="Page_173"></a><b>Apple</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a - red-cheeked apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the - pear-shaped Provolone and Baby Gouda, no doubt.</p> - - <p><b>Arber</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in - mountains between Bohemia and Silesia.</p> - - <p><b>Argentine</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of - classical Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and - Romano, rich and fruity because of the lush pampas-grass - feeding.</p> - - <p><b>Armavir</b><br /> - <i>Western Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring - cold, sour buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in - forms and ripening in a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Arnauten</b> <i>see</i> Travnik.</p> - - <p><b>Arovature</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Water-buffalo milk.</p> - - <p><b>Arras, Coeurs d'</b> <i>see</i> Coeurs.</p> - - <p><b>Arrigny</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products - of the same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and - champagne are specially well suited to one another.</p> - - <p><b>Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet</b> <i>see</i> - Caillebotte.</p> - - <p><b>Artificial Dessert Cheese</b></p> - - <p>In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese - was made by mixing <!-- Page 174 --><a name="Page_174" - id="Page_174"></a> one quart of cream with two of milk and - spiking it with powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four - beaten eggs were then stirred in with one-half cup of white - vinegar and the mixture boiled to a curd. It was then poured - into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six to eight hours. - When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored with - rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for - an hour or two and finally served up with more cream.</p> - - <p><b>Asadero, or Oaxaca</b><br /> - <i>Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico</i></p> - - <p>White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and - braided or kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven - pounds in weight Asadero means "suitable for roasting."</p> - - <p><b>Asco</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Made only in the winter season, October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Asiago I, II and III</b><br /> - <i>Vicenza, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on - age. Loaves weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like - American Cheddar but have a taste all their own.</p> - - <p>I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and - eating.</p> - - <p>II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until - nine months old.</p> - - <p>III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months - old, it's fine for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Asin, or Water cheese</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly - in spring and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert - <!-- Page 175 --><a name="Page_175" - id="Page_175"></a> cheese, frequently eaten with honey and - fruit.</p> - - <p><b>Au Cumin</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Au Fenouil</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Au Foin and de Foin</b></p> - - <p>A style of ripening "on the hay." <i>See</i> Pithiviers au - Foin and Fromage de Foin.</p> - - <p><b>Augelot</b><br /> - <i>Valée d'Auge, Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Evêque type.</p> - - <p><b>d'Auray</b> <i>see</i> Sainte-Anne.</p> - - <p><b>Aurigny, Fromage d'</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Aurillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Aurore and Triple Aurore</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Made and eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Australian and New Zealand</b><br /> - <i>Australia and New Zealand</i></p> - - <p>Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly - Cheddar; some Gruyère, but unfortunately mostly - processed.</p> - - <p><b>Autun</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another - name for it and this is of special interest in a province where - the chief competitors are made of goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Auvergne, Bleu d'</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p> - - <p><b>Au Vin Blanc, Confits</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Avesnes, Boulette d'</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - - <p><b>Aydes, les</b><br /> - <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> - - <p>Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October - to June.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 176 --><a name="Page_176" - id="Page_176"></a> <b>Azeitão, Queijo do</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative - <i>ão</i> implies. There are no finer, fatter cheeses in - the world than those made of rich sheep milk in the mountains - of Portugal and named for them.</p> - - <p><b>Azeitoso</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named.</p> - - <p><b>Azuldoch Mountain</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mild and mellow mountain product.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_B" - id="AtoZ_B"></a><br /> - B</h3> - - <p><b>Backsteiner</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from - the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like - the U.S. Brick.</p> - - <p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Not only hard but very hard, named from <i>racler</i>, - French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across - the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped - off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on - bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.</p> - - <p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan - type.</p> - - <p><b>Bakers' cheese</b></p> - - <p>Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer - grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, - pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage - cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 177 --><a name="Page_177" - id="Page_177"></a> <b>Ball</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of - the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.</p> - - <p><b>Ballakäse or Womelsdorf</b></p> - - <p>Similar to Ball.</p> - - <p><b>Balls, Dutch Red</b></p> - - <p>English name for Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Banbury</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of - Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its - equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a - sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are - getting scarce today.</p> - - <p><b>Banick</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>White and sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Banjaluka</b><br /> - <i>Bosnia</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.</p> - - <p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br /> - <i>Provence, France,</i></p> - - <p>Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the - Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to - November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled - with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green - leaves.</p> - - <p><b>Bar cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch - counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was - the backbone of America's cheese industry.</p> - - <p><b>Barbacena</b><br /> - <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in - the leading cheese state of Brazil.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 178 --><a name="Page_178" - id="Page_178"></a> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de - Troyes</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six - inches in diameter and 1¼ inches thick. Named from its - home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears. - Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut - curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to - drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware - mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in - a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in - summer they are often sold fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Barboux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Baronet</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A natural product, mild and mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Barron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Bassillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p> - - <p><b>Bath</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the - historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten - only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also - eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Battelmatt</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western - Austria</i></p> - - <p>An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The - "wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches - high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd - is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it - ripens more rapidly—in four months — - <!-- Page 179 --><a name="Page_179" - id="Page_179"></a> and is somewhat softer, but has the same - holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br /> - <i>Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain - huts in about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is - bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other - a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without - caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarian Beer cheese</b> <i>see</i> Bayrischer - Bierkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian - mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet - sauces.</p> - - <p><b>Bavarois à la Vanille</b> <i>see</i> Fromage - Bavarois.</p> - - <p><b>Bayonne</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bayonne.</p> - - <p><b>Bayrischer Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat - with beer, but to dunk in it.</p> - - <p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br /> - <i>Tibet</i></p> - - <p>Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung - like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a - hundred on a string. <i>Also see</i> Money Made of Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Beagues</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br /> - <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> - - <p>Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental - ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. - Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable - rennet.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 180 --><a name="Page_180" - id="Page_180"></a> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i> - Chevretons.</p> - - <p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a - trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to - June.</p> - - <p><b>Beaupré de Roybon</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>A winter specialty made from November to April.</p> - - <p><b>Beckenried</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A good mountain cheese from goat milk.</p> - - <p><b>Beer cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is - merely a translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a - type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, - aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat - while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierkäse is more apt - to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix - malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than - eaten.</p> - - <p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br /> - <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> - - <p>This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild - Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.</p> - - <p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a - calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result - somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not - a true cheese." (MacNeill)</p> - - <p><b>Belarno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is - skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded - by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><a name="Page_181" - id="Page_181"></a> to undergo fermentation, which takes - ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to - eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, - cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly - and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and - allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily - weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially - different from other forms of cooked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Beli Sir</b> <i>see</i> Domaci.</p> - - <p><b>Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated - with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly - fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than - Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark - for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes - are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar - at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will - keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the - weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is - kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, - creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that - go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old - cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the - fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. - There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for - there's never quite enough to go around.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 182 --><a name="Page_182" - id="Page_182"></a> <b>Bel Paese</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p><i>See under</i> <a href="#Page_17">Foreign Greats, Chapter - 3</a>. <i>Also see</i> Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese - types—French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The - American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian - original.</p> - - <p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and - diminutive in every other way.</p> - - <p><b>Bergkäse</b> <i>see</i> Allgäuer.</p> - - <p><b>Bergquara</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. - Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of - fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth - century.</p> - - <p><b>Berkeley</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.</p> - - <p><b>Berliner Kuhkäse</b><br /> - <i>Berlin, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. - Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, - and that's about the only difference between it and Alt - Kuhkäse, without caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added - for flavor. Cured for two months.</p> - - <p><b>Berques</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made of skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Berry Rennet</b> <i>see</i> Withania.</p> - - <p><b>Bessay, le</b><br /> - <i>Bourbonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mild, and creamy.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 183 --><a name="Page_183" - id="Page_183"></a> <b>Bexhill</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.</p> - - <p><b>Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are - actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in - the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and - Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in - <i>echt Deutsche</i> American spots such as Milwaukee and - Hoboken.</p> - - <p><b>Bifrost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in - 4¼-ounce package.</p> - - <p><b>Binn</b><br /> - <i>Wallis, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of - Wallis.</p> - - <p><b>Bitto</b><br /> - <i>Northern Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really - two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, - big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is - very hard and sharp and has small eyes.</p> - - <p><b>Blanc à la crème</b> <i>see</i> Fromage - Blanc.</p> - - <p><b>Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc I and II.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and - Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of - the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu - de Laqueuille.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to - May.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 184 --><a name="Page_184" - id="Page_184"></a> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. - Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first - made it a century ago, in 1854.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br /> - <i>Lower Limousin</i></p> - - <p>Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower - Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province - distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority, - this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Bleu-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p> - - <p><b>Blind</b></p> - - <p>The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type - they belong to, such as blind Swiss.</p> - - <p><b>Block Edam</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the - town of Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored - meerschaum.</p> - - <p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> Cheshire-Stilton.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, Danish</b> <i>see</i> Danish Blue.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Dorset</b> <i>see</i> Dorset.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, Jura</b> <i>see</i> Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.</p> - - <p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>One of the modern American process sausages.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 185 --><a name="Page_185" - id="Page_185"></a> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i> - Minnesota.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Moon</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A process product.</p> - - <p><b>Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double - Dorset</b><br /> - <i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p> - - <p>A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make - it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to - market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of - Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and - sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right - through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named, - is different from all other cheese molds and has a different - action.</p> - - <p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp and smoky specialty.</p> - - <p><b>Bocconi Provoloni</b> <i>see</i> Provolone.</p> - - <p><b>Boîte</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Boîte.</p> - - <p><b>Bombay</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in - place of a cracker.</p> - - <p><b>Bondes</b> <i>see</i> Bondon de Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><b>Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Nicknamed <i>Bonde à tout bien</i>, from resemblance - to the bung in a barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small - loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter - because of 2% added sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but - slightly salted, to last up to ten days.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 186 --><a name="Page_186" - id="Page_186"></a> <b>Bondost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled - Kuminost in Norway.</p> - - <p><b>Bond Ost</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in - Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Bon Larron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Romantically named "the penitent thief."</p> - - <p><b>Borden's</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz - is the leader.</p> - - <p><b>Borelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A small water-buffalo cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br /> - <i>Provence, France</i></p> - - <p>A winter product, December, January, February and March - only.</p> - - <p><b>Boudanne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three - months.</p> - - <p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the - Neufchâtel family.</p> - - <p><b>Bougon Lamothe</b> <i>see</i> Lamothe.</p> - - <p><b>Bouillé, la</b><br /> - <i>Normandy France</i></p> - - <p>One of this most prolific province's thirty different - notables. In season October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy - it.</p> - - <p><b>Boulette d'Avesnes</b>, or <b>Boulette de - Cambrai</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to May, eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Bourgain</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable - and consumed locally.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 187 --><a name="Page_187" - id="Page_187"></a> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits - Bourgognes.</p> - - <p><b>Box</b><br /> - <i>Württemberg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and - soft:</p> - - <p>I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and - Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made - in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with - saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred - pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in - wooden boxes.</p> - - <p>II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, - Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but - piquant.</p> - - <p><b>Bra No. I</b><br /> - <i>Piedmont, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches - high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by - nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in - the region of Bra.</p> - - <p><b>Bra No. II</b><br /> - <i>Turin and Cuneo, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in - brine.</p> - - <p><b>Brand or Brandkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. - The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set - to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before - pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer - kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while - curing.</p> - - <p><b>Brandy</b> <i>see</i> Caledonian, Cream.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 188 --><a name="Page_188" - id="Page_188"></a> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Described by Richard Wyndham in <i>Wine and Food</i> - (Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in - pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is - that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best. - It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while - the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be - unique among cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Bratkäse</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, - grilled on toast.</p> - - <p><b>Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other - names</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for - spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in - Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three - meals.</p> - - <p><b>Breakstone</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and - manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their - cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.</p> - - <p><b>Brésegaut</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, white.</p> - - <p><b>Breslau</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A proud Prussian dessert cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Bressans</b> <i>see</i> les Petits.</p> - - <p><b>Bresse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Lightly cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Bretagne</b> <i>see</i> Montauban.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 189 --><a name="Page_189" - id="Page_189"></a> <b>Brevine</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type.</p> - - <p><b>Briançon</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p> - - <p><b>Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Brickbat</b><br /> - <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> - - <p>A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the - eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to - ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it - Briqueton.</p> - - <p><b>Bricotta</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and - made into small luscious cakes.</p> - - <p><b>Brie</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>; - <i>also see</i> Cendré and Coulommiers.</p> - - <p><b>Brie Façon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of - France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest - Brie <i>véritable</i> that is still made best in its - original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><i>see</i> Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent - reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This Brie <i>véritable</i> is made not only in the - seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the - year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called - Maigre, is notably poor and thin. - <!-- Page 190 --><a name="Page_190" - id="Page_190"></a>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as - against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.</p> - - <p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, and available all year. Although the author of - <i>Physiologie du Goût</i> was not noted as a caseophile - and wrote little on the subject beyond <i>Le Fondue</i> - (<i>see</i> <a href="#Page_84">Chapter 6</a>), this savory - Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.</p> - - <p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Brindza</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort - is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its - Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several - stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" - crowded into the original Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Brine</b> <i>see</i> Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, - Brina Dubreala, Briney.</p> - - <p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in - brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked - type.</p> - - <p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br /> - <i>Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains</i></p> - - <p>Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, - Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or - sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in - small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino - is its opposite number in Macedonia.</p> - - <p><b>Brioler</b> <i>see</i> Westphalia.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 191 --><a name="Page_191" - id="Page_191"></a> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i> - Providence</p> - - <p><b>Briqueton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the - very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the - eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of - Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.</p> - - <p><b>Brittle</b> <i>see</i> Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, - Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.</p> - - <p><b>Brizecon</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.</p> - - <p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first - cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten - fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island. - Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with - rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.</p> - - <p><b>Broodkaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Hard, flat, nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Brousses de la Vézubie, les</b><br /> - <i>Nice, France</i></p> - - <p>Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with - powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in - Vézubie.</p> - - <p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain - and Hal districts.</p> - - <p><b>Budapest</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in - Budapest and abroad in Vienna.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 192 --><a name="Page_192" - id="Page_192"></a> <b>Buderich</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A specialty in Dusseldorf.</p> - - <p><b>Bulle</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A Swiss-Gruyère.</p> - - <p><b>Bundost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mellow; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Burgundy</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after the province, not the wine, but they go - wonderfully together.</p> - - <p><b>Bushman</b><br /> - <i>Australia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; yellow; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Butter and Cheese</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</a>.</p> - - <p><b>"Butter," Serbian</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> - - <p><b>Buttermilk</b><br /> - <i>U.S. & Europe</i></p> - - <p>Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_C" - id="AtoZ_C"></a><br /> - C</h3> - - <p><b>Cabeçou, le</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Small; goat; from Maurs.</p> - - <p><b>Cabrillon</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>So much like the Cabreçon they might be called sister - nannies under the rind.</p> - - <p><b>Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du - Ventoux</b></p> - - <p><i>Provence Mountains, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and - sundry seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season - May to November.</p> - - <p><b>Caciocavallo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, - imitated all around the world and back to Italy again. - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 193 --><a name="Page_193" - id="Page_193"></a> <b>Caciocavallo Siciliano</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, also in U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole - milk, but sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. - Weight between 17½ and 26 pounds. Used for both table - cheese and grating.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; - sweetish; eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Pecorino Romano</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Cacio Romano</b> <i>see</i> Chiavari.</p> - - <p><b>Caerphilly</b><br /> - <i>Wales and England—Devon, Dorset, Somerset & - Wilshire</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also - sold "green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven - days when weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little - keeping qualities it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat - a lot of it, think it specially suited to their needs, because - it is easily digested and does not produce so much heat in the - body as long-keeping cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Caillebottes (Curds)</b><br /> - <i>France—Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & - Vendée</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with - chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in - lozenges and served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, - mellow and aromatic. A high type of this unusual cheese is - Jonchée (<i>see</i>). Other cheeses are made with - vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon juice, - especially in Portugal.</p> - - <p><b>Caille de Poitiers</b> <i>see</i> Petits pots.</p> - - <p><b>Caille de Habas</b><br /> - <i>Gascony, France</i></p> - - <p>Clabbered or clotted sheep milk.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 194 --><a name="Page_194" - id="Page_194"></a> <b>Cajassou</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac.</p> - - <p><b>Calabrian</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and - Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Calcagno</b><br /> - <i>Sicily</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Caledonian Cream</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in - <i>Scotland's Inner Man</i>: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, - flavored with chopped orange marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon - juice. It is whisked for about half an hour. Otherwise, if put - into a freezer, it would be good ice-pudding."</p> - - <p><b>Calvados</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the - same province.</p> - - <p><b>Calvenzano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo.</p> - - <p><b>Cambrai</b> <i>see</i> Boulette.</p> - - <p><b>Cambridge, or York</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one - hour and dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating - in thirty hours.</p> - - <p><b>Camembert</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>"Camembert"</b><br /> - <i>Germany, U.S. & elsewhere</i></p> - - <p>A West German imitation that comes in a cute little - heart-shaped box which nevertheless doesn't make it any more - like the Camembert <i>véritable</i> of Normandy.</p> - - <p><b>Camosun</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd - is pressed in <!-- Page 195 --><a name="Page_195" - id="Page_195"></a>hoops, cheese is salted in brine for - thirty hours, then coated with paraffin and cured for one to - three months in humid room at 50° to 60° F.</p> - - <p><b>Canadian Club</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Cheddar Club.</p> - - <p><b>Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, - Cancoiade, Fromagère, Tempête and "Purée" - de fromage tres fort</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and - butter and sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in - attractive small molds and pots. Other sharp seasonings besides - the brandy or wine make this one of the strongest of French - strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort.</p> - - <p><b>Canestrato</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one - year to mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is - made to perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is - imitated by and for Italian settlers.</p> - - <p><b>Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; - also Fourme and La Tome.</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored - lemon; yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty - to a hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from - highland pastures is more or less skimmed and, being a very old - variety, it is still made most primitively. Cured six weeks or - six months, and when very old it's very hard and very sharp. A - Cantal type is Laguiole or Guiole.</p> - - <p><b>Capitanata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Caprian</b><br /> - <i>Capri, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat - Island, and tangy as a buck.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 196 --><a name="Page_196" - id="Page_196"></a> <b>Caprino (Little Goat)</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Caraway Loaf</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is just one imitation of dozens of German - caraway-seeded cheeses that roam the world. In Germany there is - not only Kümmel loaf cheese but a loaf of caraway-seeded - bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long made a good - Kümmelkäse or hand cheese and it would take more than - the fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European - originals, from Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian - IX and Norwegian Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen - and Belgian Leyden, to Pennsylvania Pot.</p> - - <p><b>Cardiga, Queijo da</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in - English, a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making - several other cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with - chardonnette, wild artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep - cheeses like Casera can compare with the superb ones from the - Portuguese mountain districts. They are lusciously oily, but - never rancidly so.</p> - - <p><b>Carlsbad</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive.</p> - - <p><b>Carré Affiné</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit - Carré and Ancien Impérial (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><b>Carré de l'Est</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A.</p> - - <p><b>Cascaval Penir</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 197 --><a name="Page_197" - id="Page_197"></a> <b>Caseralla</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Casere</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! - Sour-sweet tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian - is imitated with goat milk instead of sheep in Southern - California.</p> - - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> - <i>Armenia and Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to - Casere and high in quality.</p> - - <p><b>Cashera</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Casher Penner</b> <i>see</i> Kasher.</p> - - <p><b>Cashkavallo</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian - Cacciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia</i></p> - - <p>Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method.</p> - - <p><b>Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo</b> <i>see</i> Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Caspian</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped - cloth bag to speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and - biting.</p> - - <p><b>Cassaro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Locally consumed, seldom exported.</p> - - <p><b>Castelmagno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type.</p> - - <p><b>Castelo Branco, White Castle</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to - Serra da Estrella (<i>see</i>).</p> - - <p><!-- Page 198 --><a name="Page_198" - id="Page_198"></a> <b>Castillon, or Fromage de - Gascony</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Castle, Schlosskäse</b><br /> - <i>North Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Catanzaro</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Consumed locally, seldom exported.</p> - - <p><b>Cat's Head</b> <i>see</i> Katzenkopf.</p> - - <p><b>Celery</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual - caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Cendrée, la</b><br /> - <i>France—Orléanais, Blois & Aube</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrées are - Champenois or Ricey, Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet</p> - - <p><b>Cendré d'Aizy</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Available all year. <i>See</i> la Cendrée.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré de la Brie</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September - to May.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré Champenois or Cendré des - Riceys</b><br /> - <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the - ashes.</p> - - <p><b>Cendré Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p> - - <p><b>Cenis</b> <i>see</i> Mont Cenis.</p> - - <p><b>Certoso Stracchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy, near Milan</i></p> - - <p>A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars - who have made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer - and creamier than the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead - of goat milk, but it has less distinction for the same - reason.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 199 --><a name="Page_199" - id="Page_199"></a> <b>Ceva</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near - Turin.</p> - - <p><b>Chabichou</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the - months from April to December, since such cheeses don't last - long enough to be vintaged like wine by the year.</p> - - <p><b>Chaingy</b><br /> - <i>Orléans, France</i></p> - - <p>Season September to June.</p> - - <p><b>Cham</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of - Mister Pfister (<i>see</i> Pfister).</p> - - <p><b>Chamois milk</b></p> - - <p>Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the - chamois. This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain - herbs not available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or - domesticated mountain goats, so it gives, in small quantity but - high quality, the richest, most flavorsome of milk.</p> - - <p><b>Champenois or Fromage des Riceys</b><br /> - <i>Aube & Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Season from September to June. The same as Cendré - Champenois and des Riceys.</p> - - <p><b>Champoléon de Queyras</b><br /> - <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i>.</p> - - <p>Hard; skim-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Chantelle</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of - the best purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste - and little odor, perhaps to fill the demand for a "married - man's Limburger."</p> - - <p><b>Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 200 --><a name="Page_200" - id="Page_200"></a> <b>Chaource</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same - high-living Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Chapelle</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft.</p> - - <p><b>Charmey Fine</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Gruyère type.</p> - - <p><b>Chaschol, or Chaschosis</b><br /> - <i>Canton of Grisons, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in - diameter by three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to - forty pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Chasteaux</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Chèvre.</p> - - <p><b>Chaumont</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Season November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Chavignol</b> <i>see</i> Crottin.</p> - - <p><b>Chechaluk</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Soft; pot; flaky; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese bread</b><br /> - <i>Russia and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious - cheese bread called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it - is Tworog. (<i>See both</i>.) Only recently Schrafft's in New - York put out a yellow, soft and toothsome cheese bread that has - become very popular for toasting. It takes heat to bring out - its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid with cheese butter of - contrasting piquance, say one mixed with Sapsago.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 201 --><a name="Page_201" - id="Page_201"></a> <b>Cheese butter</b></p> - - <p>Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft - cheese and mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green - Sapsago is not to be forgotten when mixing your own cheese - butter.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese food</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids - derived from milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, - seasonings, condiments, relishes and water, heated or not, into - a homogeneous mass." (A long and kind word for a homely, - tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) From an advertisement</p> - - <p><b>Cheese hoppers</b> <i>see</i> Hoppers.</p> - - <p><b>Cheese mites</b> <i>see</i> Mites.</p> - - <p><b>Cheshire and Cheshire imitations</b> <i>see</i> with - Cheddar in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cheshire-Stilton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue - mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire - process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing - it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is - the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but - with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue - Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as - distinguished.</p> - - <p><b>Chester</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly - some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at - home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 202 --><a name="Page_202" - id="Page_202"></a> <b>Chevalier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Curds sweetened with sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Chevèlle</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre de Chateauroux</b> <i>see</i> Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre petit</b> <i>see</i> Petìts - Fromages.</p> - - <p><b>Chèvre, Tome de</b> <i>see</i> Tome.</p> - - <p><b>Chevretin</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so - many are.</p> - - <p><b>Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy</b><br /> - <i>Bresse & Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly - salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are - named in the plural in France.</p> - - <p><b>Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, - les</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample - of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under.</p> - - <p><b>Chevrotins</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. - Made and eaten from March to December.</p> - - <p><b>Chhana</b><br /> - <i>Asia</i></p> - - <p>All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, - soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its - name.</p> - - <p><b>Chiavari</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region, - and both are hard:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Sour cow's milk, also - known as Cacio Romano.</span><br /> - II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, - the<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">historic little port between - Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">birthplace of the barbaric - "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its raucous serenade of - dishpans, sour-note bugling and such.</span><br /> - <!-- Page 203 --><a name="Page_203" - id="Page_203"></a></p> - - <p><b>Chives cream cheese</b></p> - - <p>Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened - with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret - (with onion added). (<i>See both</i>.) For our taste it's best - when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in - person at the table or just before.</p> - - <p><b>Christalinna</b><br /> - <i>Canton Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Christian IX</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A distinguished spiced cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ciclo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Cierp de Luchon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where - it has the distinction of being the only local product worth - listing with France's three hundred notables.</p> - - <p><b>Citeaux</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Trappist Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><b>Clabber cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows - soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to - clabber.</p> - - <p><b>Clairvaux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 204 --><a name="Page_204" - id="Page_204"></a> <b>Claqueret, le</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. - <i>See</i> Chives.</p> - - <p><b>Clérimbert</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p> - - <p><b>Cleves</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch - original.</p> - - <p><b>Cloves</b> <i>see</i> Nagelkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted - cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A. and Canada</i></p> - - <p>Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be - called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case - McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now - all-American.</p> - - <p>Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste - very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, - sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, - pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the - customers think they are getting something from Olde England or - some aristocratic private club. All are described as - "tangy."</p> - - <p>Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold - in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are - wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called - "snappy."</p> - - <p><b>Cocktail Cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all - Nations" stores:</p> - - <p>Argentine aged Gruyère<br /> - Canadian d'Oka<br /> - French Bleu<br /> - <!-- Page 205 --><a name="Page_205" - id="Page_205"></a> Brie<br /> - Camembert<br /> - Fontainebleu<br /> - Pont l'Evêque<br /> - Port du Salut<br /> - Roblochon<br /> - Roquefort<br /> - Grecian Feta<br /> - Hungarian Brinza<br /> - Polish Warshawski Syr<br /> - Rumanian Kaskaval<br /> - Swiss Schweizerkäse<br /> - American Cheddar in brandy<br /> - Hopi Indian</p> - - <p><b>Coeur à la Crème</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>This becomes Fromage à la Crème II - (<i>see</i>) when served with sugar, and it is also called a - heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a - wicker or willow-twig basket.</p> - - <p><b>Coeurs d'Arras</b><br /> - <i>Artois, France</i></p> - - <p>These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly - rich with the cream of Arras.</p> - - <p><b>Coffee-flavored cheese</b></p> - - <p>Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the - world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so - the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta - satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for - flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Coimbra</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only - one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, - bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic - center.</p> - - <p><b>Colby</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open - texture. Contains more <!-- Page 206 --><a name="Page_206" - id="Page_206"></a> moisture, and doesn't keep as well as - Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>College-educated</b></p> - - <p>Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out - by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and - Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our - agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California - through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the - continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in - turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high - degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe - the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign - imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds - early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach - the high art of Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><b>Colwick</b> <i>see</i> Slipcote.</p> - - <p><b>Combe-air</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but - size.</p> - - <p><b>Commission</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being - darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as - much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North - Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for - size and nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Compiègne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft</p> - - <p><b>Comté</b> <i>see</i> Gruyère.</p> - - <p><b>Conches</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 207 --><a name="Page_207" - id="Page_207"></a> <b>Condrieu, Rigotte de la</b><br /> - <i>Rhone Valley below Lyons, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A - cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November - when pasturage is rich.</p> - - <p><b>Confits au Marc de Bourgogne</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Confits au Vin Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Epoisses.</p> - - <p><b>Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. - When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is - colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and - usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses - and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, - whose shape it retains when turned out.</p> - - <p>All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the - milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now - returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked - cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the - following:</p> - - <p>Belgium—Kochtounkäse<br /> - Germany—Kochkäse, Topfen<br /> - Luxembourg—Kochenkäse<br /> - France—Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux<br /> - Sardinia—Pannedas, Freisa</p> - - <p><b>Coon</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Cornhusker</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with - softer body and more moisture.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 208 --><a name="Page_208" - id="Page_208"></a> <b>Cornimont</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked - with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. - It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of - Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley.</p> - - <p><b>Corse, Roquefort de</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so - good, of course.</p> - - <p><b>Cossack</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in - brine and still soft and mild after two months in<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">the salt bath.</span><br /> - II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or - more.</p> - - <p><b>Cotherstone</b><br /> - <i>Yorkshire, England</i></p> - - <p>Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. - (<i>See both</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Cotrone, Cotronese</b> <i>see</i> Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Cotta</b> <i>see</i> Pasta.</p> - - <p><b>Cottage cheese</b></p> - - <p>Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. - In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The - English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage - cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also - called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed - the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine.</p> - - <p><b>Cottenham or Double Cottenham</b><br /> - <i>English Midlands</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but - creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 209 --><a name="Page_209" - id="Page_209"></a> <b>Cottslowe</b><br /> - <i>Cotswold, England</i></p> - - <p>A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, - Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine - Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing - only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It - is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and - winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts - in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the - market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of - American summer tourists.</p> - - <p><b>Cow cheese</b></p> - - <p>Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an - identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and - Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Cream cheese</b><br /> - <i>International</i></p> - - <p>England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream - begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream - that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh - berries—especially the small wild strawberries of rural - England—taste out of this world. It is also drained on - straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small - molds. (<i>See</i> Devonshire cream.) Among regional - specialties are the following, named from their place of origin - or commercial brands:</p> - - <p>Cambridge<br /> - Cottslowe<br /> - Cornwall<br /> - <!-- Page 210 --><a name="Page_210" - id="Page_210"></a> Farm Vale<br /> - Guilford<br /> - Homer's<br /> - "Italian"<br /> - Lincoln<br /> - New Forest<br /> - Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats—<i>see</i> - Rush)<br /> - St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus - bacteria)<br /> - Scotch Caledonian<br /> - Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century)<br /> - Victoria<br /> - York</p> - - <p><b>Crème Chantilly</b> <i>see</i> Hablé.</p> - - <p><b>Crème de Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Crème de Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in - perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth - it.</p> - - <p><b>Crème des Vosges</b><br /> - <i>Alsace, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream. Season October to April.</p> - - <p><b>Crème Double</b> <i>see</i> - Double-Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Crème, Fromage à la</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Crème, Fromage Blanc à la</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage Blanc.</p> - - <p><b>Crème St Gervais</b> <i>see</i> Pots de - Crème St Gervais.</p> - - <p><b>Crèmet Nantais</b><br /> - <i>Lower Loire, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft fresh cream of Nantes.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 211 --><a name="Page_211" - id="Page_211"></a> <b>Crèmets, les</b><br /> - <i>Anjou, France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a - dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with - egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled - with vanilla and sugar.</p> - - <p><b>Cremini</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And - by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the - form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and - everything.</p> - - <p><b>Creole</b><br /> - <i>Louisiana, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing - cottage-type curd and rich cream.</p> - - <p><b>Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza - Lombardi</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; - yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April.</p> - - <p><b>Creuse</b><br /> - <i>Creuse, France</i></p> - - <p>A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two - different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed - from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five - or six inches high, where it has drained for several - days:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. It is salted and turned - frequently until very dry and hard.</span><br /> - II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined - with straw.<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">This softens, flavors, and - turns it golden-yellow. (<i>See</i> Hay</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">or Fromage de - Foin.)</span></p> - - <p><b>Creusois, or Guéret</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, October to June.</p> - - <p><b>Croissant Demi-sel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 212 --><a name="Page_212" - id="Page_212"></a> <b>Crottin de Chavignol</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In - season April to December. The name is not exactly - complimentary.</p> - - <p><b>Crowdie, or Cruddy butter</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed - together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in - Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops - a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and - stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where - there's no refrigeration.</p> - - <p><b>Crying Kebbuck</b></p> - - <p>F. Marion MacNeill, in <i>The Scots Kitchen</i> says that - this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the - Kimmers feast at a lying-in.</p> - - <p><b>Cuajada</b> <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p> - - <p><b>Cubjac</b> <i>see</i> Cajassou.</p> - - <p><b>Cuit</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Cuit.</p> - - <p><b>Cumin, Münster au</b> <i>see</i> Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Cup</b> <i>see</i> Koppen.</p> - - <p><b>Curd</b> <i>see</i> Granular curd, Sweet curd and York - curd.</p> - - <p><b>Curds and butter</b><br /> - <i>Arabia</i></p> - - <p>Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together - as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs - put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger - than East Indian ghee.</p> - - <p><b>Curé, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 213 --><a name="Page_213" - id="Page_213"></a> <a name="AtoZ_D" - id="AtoZ_D"></a><br /> - D</h3> - - <p><b>Daisies, fresh</b></p> - - <p>A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally - English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let - ripen, and use for seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Dalmatian</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Hard ewe's-milker.</p> - - <p><b>Dambo</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des - Montagnes)</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. - Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee - gossip in the afternoon.</p> - - <p><b>Danish Blue</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent - imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," - and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's - best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than - the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and - Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser - Blues.</p> - - <p><b>Danish Export</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A - fine cheese, as many Danish exports are.</p> - - <p><b>Dansk Schweizerost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small - holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is - often called.</p> - - <p><b>Danzig</b><br /> - <i>Poland</i></p> - - <p>A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, - Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated - city.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 214 --><a name="Page_214" - id="Page_214"></a> <b>Darling</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one - of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of - Boston.</p> - - <p><b>Dauphin</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, November to May.</p> - - <p><b>d'Aurigny, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Daventry</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, - with "blue" veins of a darker green.</p> - - <p><b>Decize</b><br /> - <i>Nivernaise, France</i></p> - - <p>In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles - Brie.</p> - - <p><b>de Foin, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p> - - <p><b>de Fontine</b><br /> - <i>Spain</i></p> - - <p>Crumbly, sharp, nutty.</p> - - <p><b>de Gascony, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p> - - <p><b>de Gérardmer</b> <i>see</i> Récollet.</p> - - <p><b>Delft</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>About the same as Leyden. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Délicieux</b></p> - - <p>The brand name of a truly delicious Brie.</p> - - <p><b>Delikat</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German - Frühstück original. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>de Lile, Boule</b></p> - - <p>French name for Belgian Oude Kaas.</p> - - <p><b>Demi-Étuve</b></p> - - <p>Half-size Étuve. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Demi Petit Suisse</b></p> - - <p>The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it - from the Gros.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 215 --><a name="Page_215" - id="Page_215"></a> <b>Demi-Sel</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but - slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and - creamier.</p> - - <p><b>Demi-Sel, Croissant</b> <i>see</i> Croissant - Demi-Sel.</p> - - <p><b>Derby, or Derbyshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of - Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, - flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical - with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire - and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior - Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of - Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite - of its name.</p> - - <p><b>Devonshire cream and cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and - richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese - by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese - ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that - of French Foin or Hay cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Dolce Verde</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because - cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens - and the green-blues.</p> - - <p><b>Domaci Beli Sir</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a - typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin.</p> - - <p><b>Domestic Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 216 --><a name="Page_216" - id="Page_216"></a> <b>Domestic Swiss</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is - made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin - and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and - Emmentaler Valley in our country.</p> - - <p><b>Domiati</b><br /> - <i>Egypt</i></p> - - <p>Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; - white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid - when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular - in the Near East.</p> - - <p><b>Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue - Vinny</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in - flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in - the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it - was made longer ago than that." (<i>See</i> Blue Vinny.)</p> - - <p><b>Dotter</b><br /> - <i>Nürnberg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in - Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made - the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is - splendid.</p> - - <p><b>Doubles</b></p> - - <p>The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as - Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" - are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed.</p> - - <p><b>Double-cream</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Wensleydale.</p> - - <p><b>Double-crème</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk - is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la - <!-- Page 217 --> - <a name="Page_217" - id="Page_217"></a>Double-crème, and Pommel is one - well known. They are made throughout France in season and - are much in demand.</p> - - <p><b>Dresdener Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, - skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, - as well as merely eaten.</p> - - <p><b>Drinking cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in - Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of - wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and - noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale - and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts.</p> - - <p><b>Dry</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a - leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and - Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern - part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely - simple product, made for home consumption and only in the - winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for - other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a - large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept - warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then - broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and - sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into - forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, - where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From - U.S. Department of Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.)</p> - - <p><!-- Page 218 --><a name="Page_218" - id="Page_218"></a> <b>Dubreala</b> <i>see</i> Brina.</p> - - <p><b>Duel</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube.</p> - - <p><b>Dunlop</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind - Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture - and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in - flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling - Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and - Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright - and Wigtown.</p> - - <p><b>Durak</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a - pound.</p> - - <p><b>Duralag, or Bgug-Panir</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow - and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine - bath from two days to two months.</p> - - <p><b>Durmar, Rarush</b> <i>see</i> Rarush.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch cheese</b></p> - - <p>American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Cream Cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is - therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In - America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, - and farmer.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Mill</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A specialty of Oakland, California.</p> - - <p><b>Dutch Red Balls</b></p> - - <p>English name for Edam.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 219 --><a name="Page_219" - id="Page_219"></a> <a name="AtoZ_E" - id="AtoZ_E"></a><br /> - E</h3> - - <p><b>Echourgnac, Trappe d'</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Edam</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Egg</b><br /> - <i>Finland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the - curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; - French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. - Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so - the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age - their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old - eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and - the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a - century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.</p> - - <p><b>Elbinger, or Elbing</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia</i></p> - - <p>Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter - when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and - Niederungskäse.</p> - - <p><b>Ekiwani</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's - bathed in.</p> - - <p><b>Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh - from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini - and Karab in different locales.</p> - - <p><b>Elmo Table</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mellow, tasty.</p> - - <p><b>Emiliano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 220 --><a name="Page_220" - id="Page_220"></a> <b>Emmentaler</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all - around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland - reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the - hardest variety. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>, - <i>also</i> Vacherin Fondu.)</p> - - <p><b>"En enveloppe"</b></p> - - <p>French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar - to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the - French refer to frankly as <i>nu</i>, "in the nude."</p> - - <p><b>Engadine</b><br /> - <i>Graubünden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.</p> - - <p><b>English Dairy</b><br /> - <i>England and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has - long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Entrechaux, le Cachat d'</b> <i>see</i> Cachat.</p> - - <p><b>Epoisses, Fromage d'</b><br /> - <i>Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches - across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of - their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or - <i>marc</i> to d'Epoisses in making <i>confits</i> with that - name.</p> - - <p><b>Erbo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who - put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our - shores.</p> - - <p><b>Erce</b><br /> - <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Eriwani</b> <i>see</i> Elisavetpolen.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 221 --><a name="Page_221" - id="Page_221"></a> <b>Ervy</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by - two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. - A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Essex</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English - type.</p> - - <p><b>Estrella</b> <i>see</i> Serra da Estrella.</p> - - <p><b>Étuve and Demi-Étuve</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. - In season all year.</p> - - <p><b>Evarglice</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Sharp, nutty flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Excelsior</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Season all year.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_F" - id="AtoZ_F"></a><br /> - F</h3> - - <p><b>Factory Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged - sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that—mild, young and - tractable—too tractable, in fact.</p> - - <p><b>Farm</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie - (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same - as our cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Farmer</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, - nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own - fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe - cake, but in the oven.</p> - - <p><b>Farmhouse</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 222 --><a name="Page_222" - id="Page_222"></a> <b>Farm Vale</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in - wedges, eight to a box.</p> - - <p><b>Fat cheese</b> <i>see</i> Frontage Gras and Maile - Pener.</p> - - <p><b>Fenouil</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p> - - <p><b>Ferme</b> <i>see</i> Farm.</p> - - <p><b>Feta</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Feuille de Dreux</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>November to May.</p> - - <p><b>"Filled cheese"</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in - the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine - to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. - Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt - some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this - vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign - fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign - cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony - fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to - speed up coagulation.</p> - - <p><b>Fin de Siècle</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back - to the years at the close of the nineteenth century.</p> - - <p><b>Fiore di Alpe</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the - Alps."</p> - - <p><b>Fiore Sardo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment - when fully cured.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 223 --><a name="Page_223" - id="Page_223"></a> <b>Flandre, Tuile de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Marolles.</p> - - <p><b>Fleur de Deauville</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Brie, in season December to May.</p> - - <p><b>Fleur des Alpes</b> <i>see</i> Bel Paese and - Millefiori.</p> - - <p><b>Floedeost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's - milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fløtost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of - boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter.</p> - - <p><b>Flower</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds - and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of - oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps - they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, - since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except - bean curd.</p> - - <p><b>Fodder cheese</b></p> - - <p>A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is - no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, - so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it - takes.</p> - - <p><b>Foggiano</b><br /> - <i>Apulia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of - sheep's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Foin, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Hay.</p> - - <p><b>Fondu, Vacherin</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.</p> - - <p><b>Fontainebleau</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; - smooth; mellow; summer variety.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 224 --><a name="Page_224" - id="Page_224"></a><b>Fontina</b> <i>Val d'Acosta, - Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful - aroma.</p> - - <p><b>Fontine, de</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>A favorite all-year product.</p> - - <p><b>Fontinelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Fontini</b><br /> - <i>Parma, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From - the same region as Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Food cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with - some cheese content to flavor it.</p> - - <p><b>Forez, also called d'Ambert</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the - ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in - diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them - on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing - water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual - growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these - is said to resemble Roquefort. (From <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608 of - the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted - for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this - alphabet.)</p> - - <p><b>Formagelle</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggi di Pasta Filata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with - rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is - plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping - while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this - group.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 225 --><a name="Page_225" - id="Page_225"></a> <b>Formaggini, and Formaggini di - Lecco</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is - typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1¼ by two - inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is - fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of - cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, - as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggio d'Oro</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard, sharp, mountain-made.</p> - - <p><b>Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero</b> <i>see</i> - Nostrale.</p> - - <p><b>Fort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Fort.</p> - - <p><b>Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>This is a big family in the rich cheese province of - Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after - their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, - Rôche and Salers. (<i>See</i> Fourme d'Ambert and - Cantal.)</p> - - <p><b>Fourme de Montebrison</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Fourme de Salers</b> <i>see</i> Cantal, which it - resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name.</p> - - <p><b>Fresa, or Pannedas</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fribourg</b><br /> - <i>Italy and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. - (<i>See</i>)</p> - - <p><b>Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, - although some is made in winter, beginning in November.</p> - - <p><b>Friesian</b> <i>see</i> West Friesian.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 226 --><a name="Page_226" - id="Page_226"></a> <b>Fromage à la Creme</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Sour milk drained and - mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Gien is a noted produce, and - so is d'Isigny.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. - Franche-Comté—fresh sheep milk melted with fresh - thick cream,</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">whipped egg whites and - sugar.</span><br /> - III. Morvan—homemade cottage cheese. When milk has - soured solid it is<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">hung in cheesecloth in a - cool place to drain, then mixed with a</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">little fresh milk and served - with cream.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">IV. When Morvan or other - type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">for a mold, and marketed in - that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème,</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">heart of cream, to be eaten - with sugar.</span></p> - - <p><b>Fromage à la Pie</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc just - below, and Farm</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named - after Bavaria where it probably originated.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, - suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's - made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is - the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, - usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, - except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream - and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème.</p> - - <p>Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's - made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after - Nantes and also called Fromage de - <!-- Page 227 --><a name="Page_227" - id="Page_227"></a> Curé. Other districts devoted to - it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and - Ile-de-France.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Bleu</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Thionville, Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is - produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow - milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is - de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and - re-potted.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage d'Aurigny</b> <i>see</i> Alderney.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bayonne</b><br /> - <i>Bayonne, France</i></p> - - <p>Made with ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bôite</b><br /> - <i>Doubs, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont - l'Evêque.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Bourgogne</b></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Burgundy.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A seasonal goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Curé</b> <i>see</i> Nantais.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Half goat and half cow milk.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Gascony</b> <i>see</i> Castillon.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Pau</b> <i>see</i> La Foncée.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de St. Rémy</b> <i>see</i> Chevrets.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 228 --><a name="Page_228" - id="Page_228"></a> <b>Fromage de Serac</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Troyes</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Two cheeses have this name. (<i>See</i> Barberry and - Ervy.)</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Vache</b></p> - - <p>Another name for Autun.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage de Monsieur Fromage</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its - season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green - leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with - it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all - its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, - Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Fort</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in - the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured - into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove - any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is - grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, - butter and other things, before fermenting some more.</p> - - <p>Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called - Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the - strongest cheeses in all France.</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. I</i>: That of Flanders, potted with juniper - berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, - salt and white wine.</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. II</i>: That from Franche-Comté Small dry - goat cheeses pounded and <!-- Page 229 --><a name="Page_229" - id="Page_229"></a> potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, - pepper and brandy. (<i>See</i> Hazebrook.)</p> - - <p><i>Fort No. III</i>: From Provence, also called Cachat - d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, - sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and - seasonings and well marinated.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Gras (fat cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, round, fat ball called <i>tête de mort</i>, - "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no - relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these - lines:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span><i>Les gens à l'humeur - morose</i><br /></span> <span><i>Prennent la - Tête-de-Mort</i>.<br /></span> <span>People of a - morose disposition<br /></span> <span>Take the Death's - Head.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Fromage Mou</b></p> - - <p>Any soft cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Fromage Piquant</b> <i>see</i> Remoudon.</p> - - <p><b>Fromagère</b> <i>see</i> Canquillote.</p> - - <p><b>Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Orléanais, France</i></p> - - <p>Small, dried goat-milkers.</p> - - <p><b>Frühstück</b></p> - - <p>Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds - two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. - Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their - fast.</p> - - <p><b>Ftinoporino</b><br /> - <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 230 --><a name="Page_230" - id="Page_230"></a> <a name="AtoZ_G" - id="AtoZ_G"></a><br /> - G</h3> - - <p><b>Gaiskäsli</b><br /> - <i>Germany and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small - cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, - weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a - straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted - and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in - three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Gammelost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is - turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with - wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The - color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. - It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified - Limburger, and worse. In his <i>Encyclopedia of Food</i> - Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much - of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese - flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored - with cheese."</p> - - <p><b>Garda</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the - resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of - those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and - edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a - rind.</p> - - <p><b>Garden</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.</p> - - <p><b>Garlic</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 231 --><a name="Page_231" - id="Page_231"></a> <b>Garlic-onion Link</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of - sausage, nobody knows why.</p> - - <p><b>Gascony, Fromage de</b> <i>see Castillon.</i></p> - - <p><b>Gautrias</b><br /> - <i>Mayenne, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling - Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><b>Gavot</b><br /> - <i>Hautes-Alpes, France</i></p> - - <p>A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow - milk.</p> - - <p><b>Geheimrath</b><br /> - <i>Netherlands</i></p> - - <p>A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color - is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down - to the weight</p> - - <p><b>Gérardmer, de</b> <i>see</i> Récollet</p> - - <p><b>German-American adopted types</b></p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse - Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese - Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian - Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian - Allgäuer)</p> - </div> - - <p><b>Géromé, la</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; - like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and - <!-- Page 232 --><a name="Page_232" - id="Page_232"></a>flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It - stands high at home, where it is in season from October to - April.</p> - - <p><b>Gervais</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison - Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much - larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a - perfect luncheon dessert with honey.</p> - - <p><b>Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner</b> <i>see</i> Holstein - Health.</p> - - <p><b>Getmesost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; whey; sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Gex</b><br /> - <i>Pays de Gex, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in - season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Gex Marbré</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and - sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big - international Blues family, that are green in spite of their - name.</p> - - <p><b>Gien</b> <i>see</i> Fromage à la Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Gislev</b><br /> - <i>Scandinavia</i></p> - - <p>Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Gjetost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to - Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Glavis</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (<i>See</i>.)</p> - - <p><b>Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of - sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 233 --><a name="Page_233" - id="Page_233"></a> <b>Cloire des Montagnes</b> <i>see</i> - Damen.</p> - - <p><b>3/Dec/2004 15:38</b><br /> - <i>Gloucestershire, England</i></p> - - <p>There are two types:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Double, the better of the - two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">months of ripening. "It has a - pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">flavor...the tiniest morsel - being pregnant with savour. To measure</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">its refinement, it can undergo - the same comparison as that we apply</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">to vintage wines. Begin with a - small piece of Red Cheshire. If you</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">then pass to a morsel of - Double Gloucester, you will find that the</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">praises accorded to the latter - have been no whit exaggerated."</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;"><i>A Concise Encyclopedia of - Gastronomy,</i> by André L. Simon.</span><br /> - II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single - Gloucester<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">ripens in two months and is - not as big as its "large grindstone"</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">brother. And neither is it - "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"as different in qualify of - flavour as a young and crisp wine is</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from an old - vintage."</span></p> - - <p><b>Glumse</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Glux</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, all year.</p> - - <p><b>Goat</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of - flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the - milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In - Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen - chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always - notable or noble.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 234 --><a name="Page_234" - id="Page_234"></a> <b>Gold-N-Rich</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste - demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit - sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, - easily recognized by its red rind.</p> - - <p><b>Gomost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. - Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it - has a butter-like consistency. (<i>See</i> Mysost.)</p> - - <p><b>Gorgonzola</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Besides the standard type exported to us (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.) there is White Gorgonzola, - little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local - caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.</p> - - <p><b>Gouda</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Gouda, Kosher</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. - It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher - products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare - it.</p> - - <p><b>Goya</b><br /> - <i>Corrientes, Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine - cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass - distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in - Italy.</p> - - <p>It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes - their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine - milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian - imitations and some of which excel the originals.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 235 --><a name="Page_235" - id="Page_235"></a> <b>Gournay</b><br /> - <i>Seine, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms - about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons - resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches - long.</p> - - <p><b>Grana</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big - shot, that the curd is cut into.</p> - - <p><b>Grana Lombardo</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy</i></p> - - <p>The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in - Lombardy.</p> - - <p><b>Grana Reggiano</b><br /> - <i>Reggio, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely - imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the - Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its - own—Regianito.</p> - - <p><b>Grande Bornand, la</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> - - <p><b>Granular curd</b> <i>see</i> Stirred curd.</p> - - <p><b>Gras, or Velvet Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", - <i>Tête de Maure</i>, in France, from its shape and size. - The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called - <i>Tête de Mort</i>, "Death's Head". Gras is also the - popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and - sold from November to May. (<i>See</i> Brie.)</p> - - <p><b>Gratairon</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is - made.</p> - - <p><b>Graubünden</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 236 --><a name="Page_236" - id="Page_236"></a> <b>Green Bay</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, - Wisconsin, the Limburger county.</p> - - <p><b>Grey</b><br /> - <i>Germany and Austrian Tyrol</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in - brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire - cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.</p> - - <p><b>Gruyère</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Güssing, or Land-l-kas</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight - pounds.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_H" - id="AtoZ_H"></a><br /> - H</h3> - - <p><b>Habas</b> <i>see</i> Caille.</p> - - <p><b>Hablé Crème Chantilly</b><br /> - <i>Ösmo, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by - the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes - for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a - pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of - cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Hand</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Hard</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Dry; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Harzkäse, Harz</b><br /> - <i>Harz Mountains, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, - varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by - 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing - rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they - thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 237 --><a name="Page_237" - id="Page_237"></a> <b>Harzé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at - Harzé.</p> - - <p><b>Hasandach</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Bland; sweet.</p> - - <p><b>Hauskäse.</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type. Disk-shaped.</p> - - <p><b>Haute Marne</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; square.</p> - - <p><b>Hay, or Fromage au Foin</b><br /> - <i>Seine, France</i></p> - - <p>A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing - to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown - hay.</p> - - <p><b>Hazebrook</b></p> - - <p>There are two kinds:</p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort - type with white wine, juniper, salt and</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">pepper. Excessively strong for - bland American tasters.</span><br /> - II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, - pounded, potted and<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">marinated in a mixture of - thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.</span></p> - - <p><b>Head</b></p> - - <p>Four cheeses are called Head:</p> - - <p>The French Death's Head.<br /> - Swiss Monk's Head.<br /> - Dutch Cat's Head.<br /> - Moor's Head.</p> - - <p>There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head - and is only a cheese by discourtesy.</p> - - <p><b>Health</b> <i>see</i> Holstein.</p> - - <p><b>Herbesthal</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Named from a valley full of rich <i>herbes</i> for - grazing.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 238 --><a name="Page_238" - id="Page_238"></a> <b>Herkimer</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cheddar type; nearly white. <i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House</b><br /> - <i>West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half - cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in - all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.</p> - - <p><b>Herrgårdstyp</b> <i>see</i> Hushållsost.</p> - - <p><b>Hervé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft; made in cubes and peppered with <i>herbes</i> such as - tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to - May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part - skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Hickory Smoked</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Hohenburg</b> <i>see</i> Box No. II.</p> - - <p><b>Hohenheim</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. - I.)</p> - - <p><b>Hoi Poi</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in - jars.</p> - - <p><b>Hoja</b> <i>see</i> Queso de.</p> - - <p><b>Hollander</b><br /> - <i>North Germany</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in - Holstein.</p> - - <p><b>Holstein Dairy</b> <i>see</i> Leather.</p> - - <p><b>Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with - dripping.</p> - - <p><b>Holstein Health, or Holsteiner - Gesundheitkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle - with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is - poured into half-pound molds and cooled.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 239 --><a name="Page_239" - id="Page_239"></a> <b>Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein - Magerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," - tells all.</p> - - <p><b>Hop, Hopfen</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to - ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.</p> - - <p><b>Hopi</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first - by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.</p> - - <p>Horner's<br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire - sauce originated.</p> - - <p><b>Horse Cheese</b></p> - - <p>Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo - because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition - of it.</p> - - <p><b>Hum</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that - make you say "Ho-hum."</p> - - <p><b>Hushållsost, Household Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Popular in three types: Popular in three types:<br /> - Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse<br /> - Västgötatyp—Westgotland<br /> - Sveciatyp—Swedish</p> - - <p><b>Hvid Gjetost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked - outside of Scandinavia.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_I" - id="AtoZ_I"></a><br /> - I</h3> - - <p><b>Icelandic</b></p> - - <p>In <i>Letters from Iceland</i>, W.H. Auden says: "The - ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also - a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter - is Gjetost.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 240 --><a name="Page_240" - id="Page_240"></a> <b>Ihlefield</b><br /> - <i>Mecklenburg, Germany</i></p> - - <p>A hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ilha, Queijo de</b><br /> - <i>Azores</i></p> - - <p>Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother - Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. - The one word, <i>Ilha</i>, Isle, covers the several Azorian - Islands whose names, such as <i>Pico</i>, Peak, and - <i>Terceiro</i>, Third, are sometimes added to their - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Impérial, Ancien</b> <i>see</i> Ancien.</p> - - <p><b>Imperial Club</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous - French Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Incanestrato</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round - "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. <i>See</i> Majocchino, a - kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and - enriched with olive oil besides.</p> - - <p><b>Irish Cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary - imitations named after their native places of manufacture: - Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.</p> - - <p><b>Isigny</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. - <i>(See.)</i> Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name - never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert - in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to - Limburger. (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter 2</a>.)</p> - - <p>In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh - cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as - close to being cheese as any cream can.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 241 --><a name="Page_241" - id="Page_241"></a> <b>Island of Orléans</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from - France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 - on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near - Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage - Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the - name "refined."</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_J" - id="AtoZ_J"></a><br /> - J</h3> - - <p><b>Jack</b> <i>see</i> Monterey.</p> - - <p><b>Jochberg</b><br /> - <i>Tyrol, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all - mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches - high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.</p> - - <p><b>Jonchée</b><br /> - <i>Santonge, France</i></p> - - <p>A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower - water or, uniquely, black coffee.</p> - - <p><b>Josephine</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small - cylindrical packages.</p> - - <p><b>Journiac</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Julost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i>.</p> - - <p>Semihard; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_K" - id="AtoZ_K"></a><br /> - K</h3> - - <p><b>Kaas, Oude</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 242 --><a name="Page_242" - id="Page_242"></a> <b>Kackavalj</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Same as Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Kaiser-käse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and - is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a - jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.</p> - - <p><b>Kajmar, or Serbian Butter</b><br /> - <i>Serbia and Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang - between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Kamembert</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Karaghi La-La</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Nutty and tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Kareish</b><br /> - <i>Egypt</i></p> - - <p>A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.</p> - - <p><b>Karut</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Karvi</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.</p> - - <p><b>Kash</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Kashcavallo, Caskcaval</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Kasher, or Caher, Penner</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Hard; white; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Kash Kwan</b><br /> - <i>Bulgaria and the Balkans</i></p> - - <p>An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when - young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago - failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, - Washington and all big American cities.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 243 --><a name="Page_243" - id="Page_243"></a> <b>Kaskaval</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and - well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and - neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and - U.S.A.</p> - - <p><b>Kasseri</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Hard; ewe's milk, usually.</p> - - <p><b>Katschkawalj</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Katzenkopf, Cat's Head</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Edam. (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Kaukauna Club</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Widely advertised processed cheese food.</p> - - <p><b>Kauna</b><br /> - <i>Lithuania</i></p> - - <p>A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.</p> - - <p><b>Kefalotir, Kefalotyi</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria</i></p> - - <p>Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either - goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a - Greek hat, or Kefalo.</p> - - <p><b>Keg-ripened</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Brand.</p> - - <p><b>King Christian IX</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.</p> - - <p><b>Kingdom Farm</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y.</i> The Rutherfordites or - Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that - are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to - get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not - available elsewhere.</p> - - <p><b>Kirgischerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Krutt.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 244 --><a name="Page_244" - id="Page_244"></a> <b>Kjarsgaard</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both - designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon - <i>Kaffee-klatsches</i> in the <i>Konditories</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Kloster, Kloster Käse</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In - Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters - on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a - freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early - cloisters, down to this day.</p> - - <p><b>Kochenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Luxembourg</i></p> - - <p>Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is - recommended for diets.</p> - - <p><b>Koch Käse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This translates "cooked cheese."</p> - - <p><b>Kochtounkäse</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Kolos-monostor</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three - inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the - students and professors at the Agricultural School of - Transylvania.</p> - - <p><b>Kolosvarer</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo - milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Komijnekaas, Komynekass</b><br /> - <i>North Holland</i></p> - - <p>Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.</p> - - <p><b>Konigskäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 245 --><a name="Page_245" - id="Page_245"></a> <b>Kopanisti</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Koppen, Cup, or Bauden</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both - its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; - pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound - packages.</p> - - <p><b>Korestin</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Kosher</b></p> - - <p>This cheese appears in many countries under several names. - Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by - Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. - (<i>See</i> Gouda, Kosher.)</p> - - <p><b>Krauterkäse</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians - near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of - Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.</p> - - <p><b>Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or - Grunkäse.</p> - - <p><b>Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Asian Steppes</i></p> - - <p>A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the - Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or - camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and - dried in the sun.</p> - - <p><b>Kühbacher</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow - Creek, where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Kuminost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; caraway-seeded.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 246 --><a name="Page_246" - id="Page_246"></a> <b>Kumminost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>This is Bondost with caraway added.</p> - - <p><b>Kummin Ost</b><br /> - <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in - Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home - and their <i>ost</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Caraway-seeded and named.</p> - - <p><b>Kümmelkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse - has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most - drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_L" - id="AtoZ_L"></a><br /> - L</h3> - - <p><b>Labneh</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk.</p> - - <p><b>La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Lager Käse</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semidry and mellow. While <i>lager</i> means merely "to - store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer - here.</p> - - <p><b>Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole</b><br /> - <i>Aveyron, France</i></p> - - <p>An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the - Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It - is in full season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray</b><br /> - <i>Poitou</i></p> - - <p>Goat cheese made from May to November.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 247 --><a name="Page_247" - id="Page_247"></a> <b>Lancashire, or Lancaster</b><br /> - <i>North England</i></p> - - <p>White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can - get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most - popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at - Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture, - for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is - accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in - color.</p> - - <p><b>Land-l-kas, or Güssing</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to - eight pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Langlois Blue</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can - hardly compete with Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Langres</b><br /> - <i>Haute-Marne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, - high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of - days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian - kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a - half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home.</p> - - <p><b>Lapland</b><br /> - <i>Lapland</i></p> - - <p>Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both - round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with - angular ends.</p> - - <p><b>Laredo</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico - city.</p> - - <p><b>Larron</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Maroilles.</p> - - <p><b>Latticini</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as - Camembert.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 248 --><a name="Page_248" - id="Page_248"></a> <b>Laumes, les</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from November to July.</p> - - <p><b>Lauterbach</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Breakfast cheese</p> - - <p><b>Leaf</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> - - <p><b>Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from - the great <i>milch</i> cows up near Denmark in - Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that - it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred - with a Danish stirrer."</p> - - <p><b>Lebanie</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt.</p> - - <p><b>Lecco, Formaggini di</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of - a cheese family as big as the human family of most - Italians.</p> - - <p><b>Lees</b> <i>see</i> Appenzeller, Festive, No. II.</p> - - <p><b>LeGuéyin</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt - <i>and</i> pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as - Italian Pepato.</p> - - <p><b>Leicester</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese - weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, - according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to - the Derbyshire type.</p> - - <p>An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were - just made for each other."</p> - - <p><b>Leidsche Kaas</b> <i>see</i> Leyden.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 249 --><a name="Page_249" - id="Page_249"></a> <b>Leonessa</b></p> - - <p>A kind of Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Leroy</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern - processed.</p> - - <p><b>Lerroux</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in - fall or winter months.</p> - - <p><b>Lescin</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked - directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, - rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into - forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in - leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the - leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in - leaves again for another ripening period.</p> - - <p>The use of a skin sack again points the association of - cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin - bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.</p> - - <p><b>Les Petits Bressans</b><br /> - <i>Bresse, France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the - plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being - wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.</p> - - <p><b>Les Petits Fromages</b> <i>see</i> Petits Fromages and - Thiviers.</p> - - <p><b>Le Vacherin</b></p> - - <p>Name given to two entirely different varieties:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Vacherin à la - Main</span><br /> - II. Vacherin Fondu. (<i>See</i> Vacherin.)</p> - - <p><!-- Page 250 --><a name="Page_250" - id="Page_250"></a> <b>Levroux</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese in season from May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two - kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, - for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% - in the factory product.</p> - - <p><b>Liederkranz</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Limburger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Lincoln</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in - England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the - U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Lindenhof</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great - peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer - is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the - same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and - spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly - sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in - various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (<i>See</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Lipto</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative - of both Liptauer and Brinza.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 251 --><a name="Page_251" - id="Page_251"></a> <b>Little Nippy</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and - smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for - spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's - still processed.</p> - - <p><b>Livarot</b><br /> - <i>Calvados, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, - uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over - Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be - manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is - plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two - inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of - caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and - March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to - Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten - to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh <i>laiche</i> - leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and - other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot.</p> - - <p><b>Livlander</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the - cheese itself is red, not the rind.</p> - - <p><b>Locatelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano - Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Lodigiano, or Lombardo</b><br /> - <i>Lodi, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. - Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. - Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 252 --><a name="Page_252" - id="Page_252"></a> <b>Longhorn</b><br /> - <i>Wisconsin, U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to - the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just - from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings.</p> - - <p><b>Lorraine</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with - pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite - young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price.</p> - - <p><b>Lumburger</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger - because it has no odor.</p> - - <p><b>Lunch</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger - type of eye-opener.</p> - - <p><b>Lüneberg</b><br /> - <i>West Austria</i></p> - - <p>Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as - strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and - aromatic, with a character of its own.</p> - - <p><b>Luxembourg</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be - Camembert.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_M" - id="AtoZ_M"></a><br /> - M</h3> - - <p><b>Maconnais</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half - inches thick.</p> - - <p><b>Macqueline</b><br /> - <i>Oise, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a - cheaper price.</p> - - <p><b>Madridejos</b><br /> - <i>Spain</i></p> - - <p>Named for Madrid where it is made.</p> - - <p><b>Magdeburger-kuhkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 253 --><a name="Page_253" - id="Page_253"></a> <b>Magerkäse</b> <i>see</i> Holstein - Skim Milk</p> - - <p><b>Maggenga, Sorte</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A term for Parmesan types made between April and - September.</p> - - <p><b>Maguis</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread.</p> - - <p><b>Maigre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the - winter Gras and spring Migras.</p> - - <p><b>Maile</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into - a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year.</p> - - <p><b>Maile Pener (Fat Cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when - ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Mainauer</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. - Weight three pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Mainzer Hand</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes - for quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, - packed in kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight - weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes - a worthy craft.</p> - - <p><b>Majocchino</b><br /> - <i>Sicily, Italy</i></p> - - <p>An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed - together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive - oil. A kind of Incanestrato.</p> - - <p><b>Malakoff</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, - eaten fresh or ripe.</p> - - <p><b>Manicamp</b><br /> - <i>French Flanders</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to July.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 254 --><a name="Page_254" - id="Page_254"></a> <b>Mano, Queso de</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name - translates. (<i>See</i> Venezuelan.)</p> - - <p><b>Manor House</b> <i>see</i> Herrgårdsost.</p> - - <p><b>Manteca, Butter</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a - covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing—not for - cooking—which is unusual for any Italian cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Manur, or Manuri</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until - the fingers can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and - buttermilk is added with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from - the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded - like bread, lightly salted, and dried."</p> - - <p><b>Maqueé</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Marches</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk; hard.</p> - - <p><b>Margarine</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An oily cheese made with oleomargarine.</p> - - <p><b>Margherita</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cream; small.</p> - - <p><b>Marienhofer</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type. About 4½ inches square and 1½ - inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil.</p> - - <p><b>Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; smelly; hand type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 255 --><a name="Page_255" - id="Page_255"></a> <b>Maroilles, Marolles, Marole</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque - and Limburger. Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, - yellow within. Five inches square and 2¼ inches thick; - some larger.</p> - - <p><b>Martha Washington Aged Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (<i>See under</i> - Wisconsin in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.)</p> - - <p><b>Mascarpone, or Macherone</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually - packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.</p> - - <p><b>McIntosh</b><br /> - <i>Alaska</i></p> - - <p>An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter - McIntosh, and described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan - gold, which brought at times about ounce for ounce over - mining-camp counters." <i>The Cheddar Box</i> by Dean - Collins.</p> - - <p><b>McLaren's</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally - made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S A.</p> - - <p><b>Meadowbloom</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.</p> - - <p><b>Mecklenburg Skim</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.</p> - - <p><b>Meilbou</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made in the Champagne district.</p> - - <p><b>Mein Käse</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.</p> - - <p><b>Melfa</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed - in half moons.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 256 --><a name="Page_256" - id="Page_256"></a> <b>Melun</b><br /> - <i>France</i> Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. - There is also a Brie de Melun.</p> - - <p><b>Mentelto</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains</p> - - <p><b>Merignac</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat.</p> - - <p><b>Merovingian</b><br /> - <i>Northeast France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of - the Merovingian kings.</p> - - <p><b>Mersem</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Lightly cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Mesitra</b><br /> - <i>Crimea</i></p> - - <p>Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, - ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Mesost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Whey; sweetish.</p> - - <p><b>Metton</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Season October to June.</p> - - <p><b>Meuse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; piquant; aromatic.</p> - - <p><b>Midget Salami Provolone</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort - of sausage, too.</p> - - <p><b>Mignot</b><br /> - <i>Calvados, France</i></p> - - <p><i>White, No. I:</i> Soft; fresh; in small cubes or - cylinders; in season only in summer, April to September.</p> - - <p><i>Passe, No. II:</i> Soft but ripened, and in the same - forms, but only seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar - to Pont l'Evêque and popular for more than a century. It - goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or - distilled.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 257 --><a name="Page_257" - id="Page_257"></a> <b>Migras</b></p> - - <p>Name given to spring Brie—midway between fat winter - Gras and thin summer Maigre.</p> - - <p><b>Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1½ to - 2¾ inches thick, 3 to 6½ pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Milk Mud</b> <i>see</i> Schlickermilch.</p> - - <p><b>Millefiori</b><br /> - <i>Milan, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A Thousand Flowers—as highly scented as its - sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as - these flowery Alpine ones.</p> - - <p><b>Milltown Bar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and - old-time bars.</p> - - <p><b>Milk cheeses</b></p> - - <p>Milks that make cheese around the world:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>Ass Buffalo Camel Chamois Elephant Goat Human - (<i>see</i> Mother's milk) Llama Mare Reindeer Sea cow - (Amazonian legend) Sheep Whale (legendary; see Whale - Cheese) Yak Zebra Zebu</p> - </div> - - <p>U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or - strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 258 --><a name="Page_258" - id="Page_258"></a> <b>Milwaukee Kümmelkäse<br /> - and Hand Käse</b> <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early - emigrants and successfully imitated.</p> - - <p><b>Minas</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is - made. Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two - best brands are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put - out by the Swiss professors who teach the art at the - Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello - Horizonte.</p> - - <p><b>Minnesota Blue</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides - Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, - natural nationals to be proud of.</p> - - <p><b>Mintzitra</b><br /> - <i>in Macedonia; and</i><br /> - <b>Mitzithra</b><br /> - <i>in Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other - sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous - Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Modena, Monte</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.</p> - - <p><b>Mohawk Limburger Spread</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A brand that comes in one-pound jars.</p> - - <p><b>Moliterno</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Caciocavallo. <i>(See.)</i></p> - - <p><b>Monceau</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, similar to Maroilles.</p> - - <p><b>Moncenisio</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gorgonzola.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 259 --><a name="Page_259" - id="Page_259"></a> <b>Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, - Mondseer Schlosskäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>This little family with a lot of long names is closely - related to the Münster tribe, with very distant - connections with the mildest branch of the Limburgers.</p> - - <p>The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in - which it is shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class - by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer - than the others, being made of whole milk.</p> - - <p><b>Money made of cheese</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world - there is a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, - Farran Zerbee, writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese - money' of Northern China, 1850-70, now in the Chase Bank - collection, came to me personally some thirty years ago from a - woman missionary, who had been located in the field where she - said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as - 'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like - other commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a - trading medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and - was sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be - exchangeable for other articles of service."</p> - - <p><b>Monk's Head</b> <i>see</i> Tête de Moine.</p> - - <p><b>Monostorer</b><br /> - <i>Transylvania, Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Monsieur</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; salted; rich in flavor.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 260 --><a name="Page_260" - id="Page_260"></a> <b>Monsieur Fromage</b> <i>see</i> - Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.</p> - - <p><b>Montana</b><br /> - <i>Catalonia</i></p> - - <p>A mountain cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Montasio</b><br /> - <i>Austria and Italy</i></p> - - <p>Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the - rind is often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It - is eaten both fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is - yellow, granular and sharp, with a characteristic flavor. - Mostly used when three to twelve months old, but kept much - longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in - America.</p> - - <p><b>Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated cheese of Brittany.</p> - - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs - of the <i>Achittea</i> family.</p> - - <p><b>Mont Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>An Alpine cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Mont Cenis</b><br /> - <i>Southeastern France</i> Usually made of all three available - milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semi-hard and blue-veined - like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel. - Primitive methods are still used in the making and sometimes - the ripening is done by <i>penicillium</i> introduced in moldy - bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing - twenty-five pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Mont-des-Cats</b><br /> - <i>French Flanders</i></p> - - <p>Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 261 --><a name="Page_261" - id="Page_261"></a> <b>Montdidier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cream.</p> - - <p><b>Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout - the Rhone Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by - financiers" according to Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont - l'Evêque but more delicate than either, though not - effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best is still - turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. - Didier.</p> - - <p><b>Montavoner</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the - curd.</p> - - <p><b>Monterey</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in - California and along the Mexican border.</p> - - <p><b>Monterey Jack</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Monthéry</b><br /> - <i>Seine-et-Oise, France</i></p> - - <p>Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in - size, weighing up to 5½ pounds. Notable only for its - patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns - blue and has red spots.</p> - - <p><b>Montpellier</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Sheep.</p> - - <p><b>Moravian</b><br /> - <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Morbier</b><br /> - <i>Bresse, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from November to July.</p> - - <p><b>Mostoffait</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A little-known product of Champagne.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 262 --><a name="Page_262" - id="Page_262"></a> <b>Mother's milk</b></p> - - <p>In his book about French varieties, <i>Les Fromages</i>, - Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into - cheese and recounts the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese - "white as snow" that was so delicately appetizing it was - partaken of in "religious silence." All the guests guessed, but - none was right. So the host announced it was made of <i>"lait - de femme"</i> and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all - of us are cannibals."</p> - - <p><b>Mountain</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; yellow; sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Mountain, Azuldoch</b> <i>see</i> Azuldoch.</p> - - <p><b>Mount Hope</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Mouse or Mouse Trap</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery - low-grade store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged - and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for - caseophiles.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarella</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; - bland, white cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like - cups weighing about a half pound and protected with wax paper. - The genuine is made at Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the - Mazzoni di Capua. Like Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese - all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly, - with a bitter taste.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear - shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 263 --><a name="Page_263" - id="Page_263"></a> Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both - fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as - Lasagne and Pizza.</p> - - <p><b>Mozzarinelli</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.</p> - - <p><b>Mrsav</b> <i>see</i> Sir Posny.</p> - - <p><b>Münster</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and - Copenhagen to Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good - and bad. Semihard; whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red - outside; flavor from mild to strong, depending on age and - amount of caraway or anise seed added. Best in winter season, - from November to April.</p> - - <p>Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both - German and French. Géromé is a standard French - type of it, with a little longer season, beginning in April, - and a somewhat different flavor from anise seed. Often, instead - of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is served with - the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste.</p> - - <p>In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the - name of Münster au Cumin because of the caraway.</p> - - <p>American imitations are much milder and marketed much - younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and - Limburger; maybe they do.</p> - - <p><b>Mustard</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A processed domestic, Gruyère type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 264 --><a name="Page_264" - id="Page_264"></a> <b>Myjithra</b></p> - - <p>Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.</p> - - <p><b>Mysost, Mytost</b><br /> - <i>Scandinavia</i></p> - - <p>Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the - U.S.A. A whey cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel - color all through, instead of the heavy chocolate or dark - tobacco shade of Gjetost. Frimost is a local name for it. The - American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin - foil.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_N" - id="AtoZ_N"></a><br /> - N</h3> - - <p><b>Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in - Holland</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, - <i>nagel</i>, in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds - resemble English Derby.</p> - - <p><b>Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the - Curate</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.</p> - - <p><b>Nessel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.</p> - - <p><b>Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, - Bondon, and <a href="#Page_129">Chapter 9</a>.</p> - - <p><b>New Forest</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Cream cheese from the New Forest district.</p> - - <p><b>Nieheimer</b><br /> - <i>Westphalia, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer - or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with - hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 265 --><a name="Page_265" - id="Page_265"></a> <b>Niolo</b><br /> - <i>Corsica</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Noekkelost or Nögelost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped - like a Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian - variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.</p> - - <p><b>Nordost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.</p> - - <p><b>North Wilts</b><br /> - <i>Wiltshire, England</i></p> - - <p>Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in - flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its - locale.</p> - - <p><b>Nostrale</b><br /> - <i>Northwest Italy</i></p> - - <p>An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two - kinds:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. <i>Formaggio Duro:</i> - hard, as its name says, made in the spring</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">when the cows are in the - valley.</span><br /> - II. <i>Formaggio Tenero:</i> soft and richer, summer-made with - milk<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">from lush - mountain-grazing.</span></p> - - <p><b>Notruschki (cheese bread)</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.</p> - - <p><b>Nova Scotia Smoked</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova - Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like - sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Nuworld</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised - as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in - small, heavily waxed portions - <!-- Page 266 --><a name="Page_266" - id="Page_266"></a> to preserve all of its fine, full aroma - and flavor.</p> - - <p>A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an - entirely new species or not.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_O" - id="AtoZ_O"></a><br /> - O</h3> - - <p><b>Oaxaca</b> <i>see</i> Asadero.</p> - - <p><b>Oka, or La Trappe</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks - in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated - in France. <i>See</i> Trappe.</p> - - <p><b>Old English Club</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Not old, not English, and representing no club we know - of.</p> - - <p><b>Old Heidelberg</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.</p> - - <p><b>Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of - Oléron.</p> - - <p><b>Olive Cream</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival - pimientos for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the - bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made - with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Olivet</b><br /> - <i>Orléans, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">I. Fresh; summer, white; cream - cheese.</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">II. Olivet-Bleu—mold - inoculated; half-ripened.</span><br /> - III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, - October to June.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 267 --><a name="Page_267" - id="Page_267"></a> <b>Olmützer Quargel, also - Olmützer Bierkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, - only ½ of an inch thick by 1½ inches in diameter. - Packed in kegs to ripen into beer cheese and keep the liquid - contents of other kegs company. A dozen of these little ones - are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer - drinks at home or at the bar.</p> - - <p><b>Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Onion with garlic links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.</p> - - <p><b>Oporto</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.</p> - - <p><b>Orkney</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in - the oat bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. - Oatmeal and Scotch country cheese are natural affinities. - Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor - of such cheese with oatcakes.</p> - - <p><b>Orléans</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; - tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach</b><br /> - <i>Caucasus</i></p> - - <p>Comes in two forms:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. Soft and mild sheep or - cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.</span><br /> - II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type - made of<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">sheep milk is the - better.</span></p> - - <p><b>Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka</b><br /> - <i>Czechoslovakia</i></p> - - <p>Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk - for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 268 --><a name="Page_268" - id="Page_268"></a> <b>Oswego</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>New York State Cheddar of distinction.</p> - - <p><b>Oude Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Popular in France as Boule de Lille.</p> - - <p><b>Oust, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> - - <p>Of the Camembert family.</p> - - <p><b>Ovár</b><br /> - <i>Hungarian</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow - inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called - Hungarian Tilsit.</p> - - <p><b>Oveji Sir</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavian Alpine</i></p> - - <p>Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three - months. Weight six to ten pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Oxfordshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because - of Jonathan Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth - century:</p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p>"An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon - the table, pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take - away the cheese.'</p> - - <p>"'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I - well?'</p> - - <p>"To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you - served the coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we - had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"</p> - </div> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_P" - id="AtoZ_P"></a><br /> - P</h3> - - <p><b>Pabstett</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and - although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and - Prohibition has long since been - <!-- Page 269 --><a name="Page_269" - id="Page_269"></a> done away with, the relation of the - processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as - near beer from regular beer.</p> - - <p><b>Packet cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the - package or packet it comes in.</p> - - <p><b>Paglia</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of - Gorgonzola. A Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of - further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of - cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type.</p> - - <p><b>Pago</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in - Dalmatia, in weights from ½ to eight pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Paladru</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Palpuszta</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Fairly strong Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Pannarone</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue - veining.</p> - - <p><b>Parenica</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Sheep. Caciocavallo type.</p> - - <p><b>Parmesan, Parmigiano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese - in the world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to - cheese straws with the demitasse, and puts spirit into the - sparse Lenten menu as <i>Pasta al Pesto</i>, powdered Parmesan, - garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a - pestle.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 270 --><a name="Page_270" - id="Page_270"></a> <b>Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème - de Passau</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème - de Passau.</p> - - <p><b>Pasta Cotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>The ball or <i>grana</i> of curd used in making - Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Pasta Filata</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains - into which Grana is chopped.(<i>See</i> Formaggi di Pasta - Filata.)</p> - - <p><b>Pasteurized Process Cheese Food</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented - cheese. Had Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery - would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his - hand.</p> - - <p><b>Pastorella</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, rich table cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Patagras</b><br /> - <i>Cuba</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>Pecorino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. - Granular.</p> - - <p><b>Pelardon de Rioms</b><br /> - <i>Languedoc, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese in season from May to November.</p> - - <p><b>Peneteleu</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>One of the international Caciocavallo family.</p> - - <p><b>Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album</b></p> - - <p>Tiny mushroom spores of <i>Penicillium Glaucum</i> sprinkled - in the curd destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into - "blue" veins that impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve - to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface, - snow-white <i>Penicillium Album</i>.</p> - - <p><b>Pennich</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 271 --><a name="Page_271" - id="Page_271"></a> <b>Pennsylvania Hand Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch - ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania - pot, or cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Penroque</b><br /> - <i>Pennsylvania, U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with <i>Penicillium - Roqueforti</i> and ripened in "caverns where nature has - duplicated the ideal condition of the cheese-curing caverns of - France." So any failure of Penroque to rival real Roquefort is - more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother - nature.</p> - - <p><b>Pepato</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips - burn. Fine for fire-eaters.</p> - - <p>An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.</p> - - <p><b>Persillé de Savoie</b><br /> - <i>Savoie, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a - manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Petafina, La</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese - added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and - absinthe.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Carré</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made - almost unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a - box; also packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one - wedge for fifteen cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is - a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are - actually worse than we can do at home.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 272 --><a name="Page_272" - id="Page_272"></a> <b>Petit Moule</b><br /> - <i>Ile-de-France, France</i></p> - - <p>A pet name for Coulommiers.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Suisse</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel - and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gros—a largest - cylinder</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Demi—a small - one</span></p> - - <p>Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has - praised its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in - Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss - settlers, it is ideal with honey.</p> - - <p><b>Petit Vacher</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Bourgognes</b><br /> - <i>Lower Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also - beginning with B are Banons and Bressans.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Fromages de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little - mountains of Provence.</p> - - <p><b>Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Clotted milk in small pots.</p> - - <p><b>Pfister</b><br /> - <i>Cham, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making - with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the - first to manufacture it, in Chain.</p> - - <p><b>Philadelphia Cream</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy - years. Made in New York State in spite of its name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 273 --><a name="Page_273" - id="Page_273"></a> <b>Picnic</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss - has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away - from home.</p> - - <p><b>Picodon de Dieule Fit</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>In season from May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Pie, Fromage à la</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy - cottage-cheese type.</p> - - <p><b>Pie Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A</i></p> - - <p>An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be - cut in wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any - other pie. And by the way, in these days when natural cheese is - getting harder to find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in - pie wedges before being wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the - real thing—if it has the rind on. The wedge shape is - used, however, <i>without any rind</i>, to make processed - pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying word, - and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged - nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a - "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar."</p> - - <p><b>Pimiento</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits - our bland national taste, especially when mixed with - Neufchâtel, cream, club or cottage. The best is homemade, - of course, with honest, snappy old Cheddar mashed and mixed to - taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that equals the Spanish - olive as a partner in such spreads.</p> - - <p><b>Pimp</b> <i>see</i> Mainzer Hand Cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Pineapple</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 274 --><a name="Page_274" - id="Page_274"></a> <b>Piora</b><br /> - <i>Tessin, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and - cow's.</p> - - <p><b>Pippen</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll</p> - - <p><b>Pithiviers au Foin</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Poitiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.</p> - - <p><b>Pommel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>All year. Double cream; unsalted.</p> - - <p><b>Ponta Delgada</b><br /> - <i>Azores</i></p> - - <p>Semifirm; delicate; piquant</p> - - <p><b>Pontgibaud</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.</p> - - <p><b>Pont l'Evêque</b></p> - - <p>Characterized as a classic French <i>fromage</i> "with - Huge-like Romanticism." (<i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow."</p> - - <p><b>Poona</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. - Sold in two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room - temperature before serving.</p> - - <p><b>Port-Salut, Port du Salut</b> <i>see</i> - <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Port, Blue Links</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage - links.</p> - - <p><b>Pot cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English - favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, - almonds and macaroons. <!-- Page 275 --><a name="Page_275" - id="Page_275"></a> In Ireland it was used in connection with - the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow - curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.</p> - - <p><b>Potato</b><br /> - <i>Germany and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat - sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. - One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two - or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of - potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt - and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to - stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes - place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or - cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for - fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It - is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite - so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other - essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of - Agriculture <i>Bulletin</i> No. 608.</p> - - <p><b>Potato Pepper</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like - Pepato, only not so stony hard.</p> - - <p><b>Pots de Crème St. Gervais</b><br /> - <i>St. Gervais-sur-mer, France</i></p> - - <p>The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is - eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Pouligny-St. Pierre</b><br /> - <i>Touraine, France</i></p> - - <p>A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from - May to December.</p> - - <p><b>Poustagnax, le</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 276 --><a name="Page_276" - id="Page_276"></a> <b>Prato</b><br /> - <i>Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation - of Holland Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or - quince paste. Named not from "dish" but the River Plate - district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long - ago.</p> - - <p><b>Prattigau</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named - for its home valley.</p> - - <p><b>Prestost or Saaland Flarr</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Gouda, but unique—the curd being mixed with - whiskey, packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a - cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with - whiskey.</p> - - <p><b>Primavera, Spring</b><br /> - <i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a - springlike fragrance.</p> - - <p><b>Primost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.</p> - - <p><b>Primula</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table - cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish - Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added.</p> - - <p><b>Processed</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and - modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus - changed into a plastic mass.</p> - - <p><b>Promessi</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Small soft-cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Provatura</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good - beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 277 --><a name="Page_277" - id="Page_277"></a> <b>Providence</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.</p> - - <p><b>Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, - Provoletti, and Provolino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known - and appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly - imitated in the U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are - interchangeable.</p> - - <p>Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang - decoratively in the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw - Chianti bottles, Provolones weigh from <i>bocconi</i> - (mouthful), about one pound, to two to four pounds. There are - three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with huge Salamis - and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all sorts of - decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that - are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.</p> - - <p><b>P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit</b><br /> - <i>Lorraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and - potted.</p> - - <p><b>Puant Macere</b><br /> - <i>Flanders</i></p> - - <p>"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season - from November to June.</p> - - <p><b>Pultost or Knaost</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.</p> - - <p><b>Pusztador</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high - scent.</p> - - <p><b>Pyrenees, Fromage des</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A fine mountain variety.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 278 --><a name="Page_278" - id="Page_278"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Q" - id="AtoZ_Q"></a><br /> - Q</h3> - - <p><b>Quartiolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between - September and November.</p> - - <p><b>Quacheq</b><br /> - <i>Macedonia, Greece</i></p> - - <p>Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Quargel</b> <i>see</i> Olmützer.</p> - - <p><b>Quartirolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Queijos—Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and - Portugal</b> <i>see</i> under their local or regional names: - Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da - Estrella.</p> - - <p><b>Queso Anejo</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>White, dry, skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Bola</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, similar to Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Cavallo</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Pear-shaped cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida</b> - <i>see</i> Venezuela.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Cincho</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in - palm leaves.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Crema</b><br /> - <i>Costa Rica</i></p> - - <p>Similar to soft Brick.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top - of each other.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 279 --><a name="Page_279" - id="Page_279"></a> <b>Queso de Mano</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.</p> - - <p><b>Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Prensa</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or - after ripening two or three months.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Puna</b><br /> - <i>Puerto Rico</i></p> - - <p>Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Queso de Tapara</b><br /> - <i>Venezuela</i></p> - - <p>Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called <i>tapara</i> from - the shape and tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good - fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and - dry." D.K.K. in <i>Bueno Provecho.</i></p> - - <p><b>Queso Fresco</b><br /> - <i>El Salvador</i></p> - - <p>Cottage-cheese type.</p> - - <p><b>Queville</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Queyras</b> <i>see</i> Champoléon.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_R" - id="AtoZ_R"></a><br /> - R</h3> - - <p><b>Rabaçal</b><br /> - <i>Coimbra, Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches - in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Rabbit Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.</p> - - <p><b>Radener</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. - Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 280 --><a name="Page_280" - id="Page_280"></a> <b>Radolfzeller Cream</b><br /> - <i>Germany, Switzerland, Austria</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Münster.</p> - - <p><b>Ragnit</b> <i>see</i> Tilsit.</p> - - <p><b>Rahmkäse, Allgäuer</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Cream.</p> - - <p><b>Rainbow</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Mild; mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Ramadoux</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to - Hervé</p> - - <p><b>Rammil or Rammel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in - Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or - "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today.</p> - - <p><b>Rangiport</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.</p> - - <p><b>Rarush Durmar</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Brittle; mellow; nutty.</p> - - <p><b>Rächerkäse</b></p> - - <p>The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where - it is very popular.</p> - - <p><b>Raviggiolo</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.</p> - - <p><b>Rayon or Raper</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, - where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for - grating and seasoning.</p> - - <p><b>Reblochon or Roblochon</b><br /> - <i>Savoy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. - Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon - in the same section.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 281 --><a name="Page_281" - id="Page_281"></a> <b>Récollet de - Gérardmer</b><br /> - <i>Vosges, France</i></p> - - <p>A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from - October to April</p> - - <p><b>Red</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Livlander.</p> - - <p><b>Red Balls</b><br /> - <i>Dutch</i></p> - - <p><i>see</i> Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Reggiano</b> <i>see</i> Grana.</p> - - <p><b>Regianito</b><br /> - <i>Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not - a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Reichkäse</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany - had one.</p> - - <p><b>Reindeer</b><br /> - <i>Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway</i></p> - - <p>In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from - reindeer milk It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland - production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular - instead of round ends.</p> - - <p><b>Relish cream cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and - that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to - June.</p> - - <p><b>Requeijão</b><br /> - <i>Portugal and Brazil</i></p> - - <p>Recooked.</p> - - <p><b>Resurrection</b> <i>see</i> Welsh.</p> - - <p><b>Rhubarbe</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no - relation to our pie plant.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 282 --><a name="Page_282" - id="Page_282"></a> <b>Riceys</b> <i>see</i> Champenois.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta Romano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. - Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and - cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta</b><br /> - <i>Italy and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, - salads, lasagne, blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also - mixed with Marsala and rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may - be had in every Little Italy, some of it very well made and, - unfortunately, some of it a poor substitute whey cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Ricotta Salata</b></p> - - <p>Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too - hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for - grating.</p> - - <p><b>Riesengebirge</b><br /> - <i>Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in - Bohemia's northern mountains.</p> - - <p><b>Rinnen</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded - variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to - drain.</p> - - <p><b>Riola</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes - longer to ripen, two to three months.</p> - - <p><b>Robbiole<br /> - Robbiola<br /> - Robbiolini</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy</i><br /> - <i>Italian</i></p> - - <p>Very similar to Crescenza (<i>see</i>.) Alpine winter cheese - of fine quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from - eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the - family tips the scale at just under four ounces.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 283 --><a name="Page_283" - id="Page_283"></a> <b>Roblochon, le</b></p> - - <p>Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of - half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.</p> - - <p><b>Rocamadur</b><br /> - <i>Limousin, France</i></p> - - <p>Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season - November to May.</p> - - <p><b>Rocroi</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>From the Champagne district.</p> - - <p><b>Rokadur</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Imitation Roquefort.</p> - - <p><b>Roll</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Rollot or Rigolot</b><br /> - <i>Picardy and Montdidier, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and - Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is - Picardy's one and only cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Roma</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream.</p> - - <p><b>Romadour, Romadura, and other national - spellings</b><br /> - <i>Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to - April. It is not a summer cheese, especially in lands where - refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America - from several countries.</p> - - <p><b>Romano, Romano Vacchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.</p> - - <p><b>Romanello</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small - grating cheese, cured one year.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." - <i>See</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 284 --><a name="Page_284" - id="Page_284"></a> <b>Roquefort cheese dressing, - bottled</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed - oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, - salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort de Corse</b><br /> - <i>Corsica, France</i></p> - - <p>This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made - of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for - ripening.</p> - - <p><b>Roquefort de Tournemire</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the - royal Roquefort name.</p> - - <p><b>Rougerets, les</b><br /> - <i>Lyonnais, France</i></p> - - <p>A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where - practically every variety is made with goat milk.</p> - - <p><b>Rouennais</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter - cheese, eaten from October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Round Dutch</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>An early name for Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Rouy, le</b><br /> - <i>Normandy, France</i></p> - - <p>From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.</p> - - <p><b>Royal Brabant</b><br /> - <i>Belgium</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Royal Sentry</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who - haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as - an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese - spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident - insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, - non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium - phosphate.</p> - - <p><b>Ruffec, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Saintonge, France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh; goat.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 285 --><a name="Page_285" - id="Page_285"></a> <b>Runesten</b><br /> - <i>Denmark and U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs - about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.</p> - - <p><b>Rush Cream Cheese</b><br /> - <i>England and France</i></p> - - <p>Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are - made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses - are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old - English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary - fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth - when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this - on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase - the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until - the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the - fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow - heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as - follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed - cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one - tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of - rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and - straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths - and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or - baskets should not be used a second time.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_S" - id="AtoZ_S"></a><br /> - S</h3> - - <p><b>Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made - with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also - washed with whiskey.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 286 --><a name="Page_286" - id="Page_286"></a> <b>Saanen</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the - finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also - known as Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it - came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an - extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in - the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer - than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the - eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for - ripening is six years, but some take nine.</p> - - <p><b>Sage, or Green cheese</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is - in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening - to milk by the method described in <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Affrique</b><br /> - <i>Guyenne, France</i></p> - - <p>This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of - Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a - toothsome goat cheese of local renown.</p> - - <p>We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most - of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is - seldom shipped abroad.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Agathon</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>Season, October to July.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Amand-Montrond</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Benoit</b><br /> - <i>Loiret, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to - the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It - ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to - twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 287 --><a name="Page_287" - id="Page_287"></a> <b>Saint-Claude</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a - half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before - salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Cyr</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or</b> <i>see</i> Mont d'Or.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Florentin</b><br /> - <i>Burgundy, France</i></p> - - <p>A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to - July.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Flour</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Another seasonal specialty from this province of many - cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Gelay</b><br /> - <i>Poitou, France</i></p> - - <p>Made from goat's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint - Gervais</b><br /> - <i>see</i> Pots de Crème.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Heray</b> <i>see</i> La Mothe.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Honoré</b><br /> - <i>Nivernais, France</i></p> - - <p>A small goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Hubert</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brie.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Ivel</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Fresh dairy cream cheese containing <i>Lactobacillus - acidophilus</i>. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., - which is made with <i>Bacillus Bulgaricus.</i></p> - - <p><b>Saint-Laurent</b><br /> - <i>Roussillon, France</i></p> - - <p>Mountain sheep cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Lizier</b><br /> - <i>Béarn, France</i></p> - - <p>A white, curd cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 288 --><a name="Page_288" - id="Page_288"></a> <b>Saint-Loup, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Poitou and Vendée, France</i></p> - - <p>Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to - September</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Marcellin</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by ¾ - inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to - December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but - this is essentially a goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Moritz</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Soft and tangy.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Pierre-Pouligny</b> <i>see</i> - Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Reine</b> <i>see</i> Alise.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Rémy, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>Haute-Saône, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft Pont l'Evêque type.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Stefano</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Bel Paese type.</p> - - <p><b>Saint-Winx</b><br /> - <i>Flanders, France</i></p> - - <p>The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this - Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy - products.</p> - - <p><b>Sainte-Anne d'Auray</b><br /> - <i>Brittany, France</i></p> - - <p>A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.</p> - - <p><b>Sainte-Marie</b><br /> - <i>Franche-Comté, France</i></p> - - <p>A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 289 --><a name="Page_289" - id="Page_289"></a> <b>Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de - Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to - Valençay.</p> - - <p><b>Salamana</b><br /> - <i>Southern Europe</i></p> - - <p>Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, - to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on - bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly - cheese-flavored porridge.</p> - - <p><b>Salame</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. - Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common - in Italy, from Provolone down, and now—both as salami and - links—it has became extremely popular for processed and - cheese foods throughout America.</p> - - <p><b>Salers, Bleu de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>One of the very good French Blues.</p> - - <p><b>Saligny</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>White cheese made from sheep's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Saloio</b><br /> - <i>Lisbon, Portugal</i></p> - - <p>An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short - cylinder, 1½ to two inches in diameter, weighing a - quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many - small farms.</p> - - <p><b>Salonite</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years - ago.</p> - - <p><b>Saltee</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The - same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as - white as its name implies.</p> - - <p><b>Salt-free cheese, for diets</b></p> - - <p>U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg - Kochenkäse.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 290 --><a name="Page_290" - id="Page_290"></a> <b>Samsö</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is - the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.</p> - - <p><b>Sandwich Nut</b></p> - - <p>An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or - Neufchâtel.</p> - - <p><b>Sapsago</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Sardegna</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia</i></p> - - <p>A Romano type made in Sardinia.</p> - - <p><b>Sardinian</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>The typical hard grating cheese of this section of - Italy.</p> - - <p><b>Sardo</b><br /> - <i>Sardinia, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the - Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.</p> - - <p><b>Sarraz or Sarrazin</b><br /> - <i>Vaud, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Roquefort type.</p> - - <p><b>Sassenage</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiny, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a - French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of - which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and - sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble - and Sassenage are celebrated.</p> - - <p><b>Satz</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Hard cheese made in Saxony.</p> - - <p><b>Savoy, Savoie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in - Savoy.</p> - - <p><b>Sbrinz</b><br /> - <i>Argentine</i></p> - - <p>Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 291 --><a name="Page_291" - id="Page_291"></a> <b>Scanno</b><br /> - <i>Abruzzi, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. - Blackened rind, deep yellow interior.</p> - - <p><b>Scarmorze or Scamorze</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear - from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied - together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or - in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive - oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about - 3½ by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and - sold as Pear cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Schabziger</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.</p> - - <p><b>Schamser, or Rheinwald</b><br /> - <i>Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to - forty-six pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Schlickermilch</b></p> - - <p>This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for - Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Schlesische Sauermilchkäse</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on - straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open - latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to - ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm - water two or three times a week.</p> - - <p><b>Schlesischer Weichquarg</b><br /> - <i>Silesia, Poland</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at - 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack - twenty-<!-- Page 292 --> - <a name="Page_292" - id="Page_292"></a>four hours, then kneaded and shaped by - hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored - with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand - cheese odor develops.</p> - - <p><b>Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a - favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an - aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for - Liederkranz.</p> - - <p><b>Schmierkäse</b></p> - - <p>German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America.</p> - - <p><b>Schnitzelbank Pot</b> <i>see</i> Liederkranz, - <a href="#Page_37">Chapter 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Schönland</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful - land."</p> - - <p><b>Schützenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than - four ounces and wrapped in tin foil.</p> - - <p><b>Shottengsied</b><br /> - <i>Alpine</i></p> - - <p>A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.</p> - - <p><b>Schwarzenberger</b><br /> - <i>Hungary and Bohemia</i></p> - - <p>One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three - months to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Schweizerkäse</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>German for Swiss cheese. (<i>See</i> Emmentaler.)</p> - - <p><b>Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is - nothing wonderful.</p> - - <p><b>Select Brick</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_158">Chapter - 12</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Selles-sur Cher</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 293 --><a name="Page_293" - id="Page_293"></a> <b>Sénecterre</b><br /> - <i>Puy-de-Dôme, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1½ - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Septmoncel</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, - goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by - some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member - of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage.</p> - - <p><b>Serbian</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a - kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added, - the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by - being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put - in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered - each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk - for six.</p> - - <p>Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. - It is semisoft.</p> - - <p><b>Serbian Butter</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p> - - <p><b>Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain - Range)</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in - Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. - The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon - flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms - for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds, - about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly - oily and delightfully acid.</p> - - <p><b>Sharp-flavored cheese</b></p> - - <p>U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano - Fecorino, Old <!-- Page 294 --><a name="Page_294" - id="Page_294"></a> Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and - Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian - Kaskaval.</p> - - <p><b>Shefford</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_11">Chapter - 2</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Silesian</b><br /> - <i>Poland and Germany</i></p> - - <p>White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see - Schlesischer.)</p> - - <p><b>Sir cheeses</b></p> - - <p>In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr - means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk - and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to - both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the - Saint cheeses in France.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Iz Mjesine</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over - an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, - breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by - hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and - two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh - or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, - and put away to ripen.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Mastny</b><br /> - <i>Montenegro</i></p> - - <p>Fresh sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Sir Posny</b><br /> - <i>Montenegro</i></p> - - <p>Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also - answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav.</p> - - <p><b>Sir, Twdr</b> <i>see</i> Twdr Sir.</p> - - <p><b>Sir, Warshawski</b> <i>see</i> Warshawski Syr.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 295 --><a name="Page_295" - id="Page_295"></a> <b>Siraz</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Skyr</b><br /> - <i>Iceland</i></p> - - <p>The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between - Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. - It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take - too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful - information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to - take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives - you diarrhea."</p> - - <p><b>Slipcote, or Colwick</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is - put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When - firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or - two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat - becomes loose and easily slips off—hence the name. In the - middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best - cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in - Wissenden, Rutlandshire.</p> - - <p><b>Smältost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Soft and melting.</p> - - <p><b>Smearcase</b></p> - - <p>Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used - in America for cottage cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Block</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>A well-smoked cheese in block form.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Mozzarella</b> <i>see</i> Mozzarella - Affumicata.</p> - - <p><b>Smoked Szekely</b><br /> - <i>Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and - smoked.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 296 --><a name="Page_296" - id="Page_296"></a> <b>Smokelet</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i>.</p> - - <p>A small smoked cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Soaked-curd cheese</b> <i>see</i> Washed-curd cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Sorbais</b><br /> - <i>Champagne, France</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown - rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste - and square shape, but smaller.</p> - - <p><b>Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga</b></p> - - <p>Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Soumaintrain, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - - <p><b>Soybean</b><br /> - <i>China</i></p> - - <p>Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often - developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a - regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and - rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has - been known to make them shiver.</p> - - <p><b>Spalen or Stringer</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of - Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from - the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported - together.</p> - - <p><b>Sperrkäse</b> <i>see</i> Dry.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced</b><br /> - <i>International</i></p> - - <p>Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition - of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the - making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the - cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost - <!-- Page 297 --><a name="Page_297" - id="Page_297"></a> or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in - English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, - Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; - Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, - etc.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced and Spiced Spreads</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify - not less than 1½ ounces of spice to 100 pounds of - cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Spiced Fondue</b> <i>see</i> Vacherin Fondu.<br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p><b>Spitz Spitzkase</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway - spiced, Limburger-like. <i>see</i> Backsteiner.</p> - - <p><b>Sposi</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; small; cream.</p> - - <p><b>Spra</b><br /> - <i>Greek</i></p> - - <p>Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath - in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they - are made principally from sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Stängenkase</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p>Stein Käse<br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well - made after the old German original.</p> - - <p><b>Steinbuscher-Käse</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick - forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly - thought of at home but little known abroad.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 298 --><a name="Page_298" - id="Page_298"></a> <b>Steppe</b><br /> - <i>Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark</i></p> - - <p>German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and - mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for - export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home - consumption.</p> - - <p>Stilton <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Stirred curd cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and - marketed younger.</p> - - <p><b>Stracchino</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, - rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, - never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading - variety. See in <a href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</a>. Also see - Certoso Stracchino.</p> - - <p>Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored - member of this distinguished family.</p> - - <p><b>Stravecchio</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Well-aged, according to the name. Creamy and mellow.</p> - - <p><b>Stringer</b> <i>see</i> Spalen.</p> - - <p><b>Styria</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk. Cylindrical form.</p> - - <p><b>Suffolk</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet - milk" cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular - anywhere, it has stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its - smell but for its flinty hardness.</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Hunger will break - through stone walls and anything</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">except a Suffolk - cheese."</span> - </div> - </div> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <!-- Page 299 --><a name="Page_299" - id="Page_299"></a> <span>"Those that made me were - uncivil<br /></span> <span>For they made me harder - than the devil.<br /></span> <span>Knives won't - cut me; fire won't sweat me;<br /></span> - <span>Dogs bark at me, but can't eat - me."<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Surati, Panir</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Buffalo milk. Uncolored.</p> - - <p><b>Suraz</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard and semisoft.</p> - - <p><b>Sveciaost</b><br /> - <i>Sweden</i></p> - - <p>A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to - match Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three - qualities: full cream, ¾ cream, and half cream. Soft; - rich; ready to eat at six weeks and won't keep past six months. - A whole-hearted, whole-milk, wholesome cheese named after the - country rather than a part of it as most <i>osts</i> are.</p> - - <p><b>Sweet-curd</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and - the curd cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. - When ripe, however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual - Cheddar made by the granular process.</p> - - <p><b>Swiss</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New - Galrus, Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch - bugs gobbling their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have - been at it ever since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic - cheese, has been their standby, and only in recent years these - Wisconsin Schweizers have had competition from Ohio and other - states who turn out the typical cartwheels, which still look - like the genuine imported Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 300 --><a name="Page_300" - id="Page_300"></a> <b>Szekely</b><br /> - <i>Transylvania, Hungary</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes - smoked. This is the type of foreign cheese that set the popular - style for American processed links, with wine flavors and - everything.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_T" - id="AtoZ_T"></a><br /> - T</h3> - - <p><b>Taffel, Table, Taffelost</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tafi</b><br /> - <i>Argentina</i></p> - - <p>Made in the rich province of Tucuman.</p> - - <p><b>Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de</b><br /> - <i>Périgord, France</i></p> - - <p>Very small and tasty goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Taleggio</b><br /> - <i>Lombardy, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.</p> - - <p><b>Tallance</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Goat.</p> - - <p><b>Tamie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method - that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an - imitation produced not far away.</p> - - <p><b>Tanzenberger</b><br /> - <i>Carinthia, Austria</i></p> - - <p>Limburger type.</p> - - <p><b>Tao-foo or Tofu</b><br /> - <i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p> - - <p>Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The - beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled - so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained - off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This - is then handled in the <!-- Page 301 --><a name="Page_301" - id="Page_301"></a>same way as animal milk in making ordinary - cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it - is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked - dishes, as well as being eaten as is.</p> - - <p><b>Teleme</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. - Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat - in ten days.</p> - - <p><b>Terzolo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in - winter.</p> - - <p><b>Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, - Moor's Head</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.</p> - - <p><b>Tête de Moine, Monk's Head</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, - summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called - Bellelay.</p> - - <p><b>Tête de Mort</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Gras for this - death's head.</p> - - <p><b>"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"</b><br /> - <i>Scotland</i></p> - - <p>Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the - Scottish rhyme that exposes it:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>The first love token ye gae me<br /></span> - <span>Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.<br /></span> - <span>O wae be to the tempting cheese,<br /></span> - <span>The tempting cheese of Fyvie,<br /></span> - <span>Gat me forsake my ain gude man<br /></span> - <span>And follow a fottman laddie.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><b>Texel</b></p> - - <p>Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the - island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 302 --><a name="Page_302" - id="Page_302"></a> <b>Thenay</b><br /> - <i>Vendôme, France</i></p> - - <p>Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.</p> - - <p><b>Thion</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>A fine Emmentaler.</p> - - <p><b>Three Counties</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that - make most of the Irish cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Thuringia Caraway</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A hand cheese spiked with caraway.</p> - - <p><b>Thyme</b><br /> - <i>Syria</i></p> - - <p>Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two - other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme—both French: - Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.</p> - - <p><b>Tibet</b><br /> - <i>Tibet</i></p> - - <p>The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country - Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all - sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a - hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash - and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese - cheese money. (<i>See under</i> Money.)</p> - - <p><b>Tignard</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne - Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.</p> - - <p><b>Tijuana</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track - town.</p> - - <p><b>Tillamook</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_37">Chapter - 4</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called - Ragnit</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to - American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that - give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also - resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 303 --><a name="Page_303" - id="Page_303"></a>Old Tilsiter is something special in - aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around - the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it - is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and - Canadian—even Swiss—imitations.</p> - - <p>The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in - flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant - post-prandial dallying."</p> - - <p><b>Tilziski</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Beaumont</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Whole cow's milk.</p> - - <p><b>Tome, la</b><br /> - <i>Auvergne, France</i></p> - - <p>Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of - Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, - Rôche, Salers, etc.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Savoy, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tome de Savoie</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: - Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.</p> - - <p><b>Tomelitan Gruyère</b><br /> - <i>Norway</i></p> - - <p>Imitation of French Gruyère in 2½ ounce - packages.</p> - - <p><b>Topf or Topfkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour - skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one - ounce. When cured it is flaky.</p> - - <p><b>Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore - used as a table cheese.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 304 --><a name="Page_304" - id="Page_304"></a> <b>Toscanello</b><br /> - <i>Tuscany, Italy</i></p> - - <p>A smaller edition of Toscano.</p> - - <p><b>Touareg</b><br /> - <i>Berber, Africa</i></p> - - <p>Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd - is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried - for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent - turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake - Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.</p> - - <p><b>Tour Eiffel</b><br /> - <i>Berry, France</i></p> - - <p>Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a - picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.</p> - - <p><b>Touloumisio</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Feta.</p> - - <p><b>Tournette</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Small goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tourne de chèvre</b><br /> - <i>Dauphiné, France</i></p> - - <p>Goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Trappe, la, or Oka</b><br /> - <i>Canada</i></p> - - <p>Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its - Canadian monastery.</p> - - <p><b>Trappist</b> <i>see</i> <a href="#Page_17">Chapter - 3</a>.</p> - - <p><b>Trappist</b><br /> - <i>Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Trappist Port-Salut imitation.</p> - - <p><b>Trauben (Grape)</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine - and so named for the grape.</p> - - <p><b>Travnik, Travnicki</b><br /> - <i>Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia</i></p> - - <p>Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and - occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in - Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as - Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 305 --><a name="Page_305" - id="Page_305"></a>When fresh it is almost white and has a - mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from - two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes - should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is - characteristically oily and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Traz os Montes</b><br /> - <i>Portugal</i></p> - - <p>Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles - nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is - oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all - tallowy.</p> - - <p><b>Trecce</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.</p> - - <p><b>Triple Aurore</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Normandy cheese in season all the year around.</p> - - <p><b>Troo</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.</p> - - <p><b>Trouville</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of - superior quality.</p> - - <p><b>Troyes, Fromage de</b> <i>see</i> Barberey and Ervy.</p> - - <p><b>Truckles</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety - like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle - or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door - to door singing for a handout:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Pray, dame, something,<br /></span> <span>An - apple or a dumpling,<br /></span> <span>Or a piece of - Truckle cheese<br /></span> <span>Of your own - making.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 306 --><a name="Page_306" - id="Page_306"></a>No. II: Local name in the West of England - for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.</p> - - <p><b>Tschil</b><br /> - <i>Armenia</i></p> - - <p>Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either - sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land - where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.</p> - - <p><b>Tuile de Flandre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>A type of Marolles.</p> - - <p><b>Tullum Penney</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Salty from being soaked in brine.</p> - - <p><b>Tuna, Prickly Pear</b><br /> - <i>Mexico</i></p> - - <p>Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by - boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear - fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and - sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes - enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a - very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico - for centuries.</p> - - <p><b>Tuscano</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.</p> - - <p><b>Twdr Sir</b><br /> - <i>Serbia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp - taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in - diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.</p> - - <p><b>Twin Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, - Green Bay, Wisconsin.</p> - - <p><b>Tworog</b><br /> - <i>Russia</i></p> - - <p>Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in - the cheese bread called Notruschki.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 307 --><a name="Page_307" - id="Page_307"></a> <b>Tybo</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.</p> - - <p><b>Tyrol Sour</b><br /> - <i>German</i></p> - - <p>A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Tzgone</b><br /> - <i>Dalmatia</i></p> - - <p>The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.</p> - - <p><b>Tzigenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and - salty; originated in Dalmatia.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_U" - id="AtoZ_U"></a><br /> - U</h3> - - <p><b>Urda</b><br /> - <i>Rumania</i></p> - - <p>Creamy; sweet; mild.</p> - - <p><b>Uri</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. - Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty - pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Urseren</b><br /> - <i>Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>Mild flavored. Cooked curd.</p> - - <p><b>Urt, Fromage d'</b></p> - - <p>Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_V" - id="AtoZ_V"></a><br /> - V</h3> - - <p><b>Vacherin</b><br /> - <i>France and Switzerland</i></p> - - <p>I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery - rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six - by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. - When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish - called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety, - spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten - with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is - Tome de Montague.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 308 --><a name="Page_308" - id="Page_308"></a>II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. - Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the - No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the - dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."</p> - - <p>Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced - Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about - the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced - and reformed into Vacherin.</p> - - <p><b>Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du</b><br /> - <i>Andorra, France</i></p> - - <p>Sheep milk.</p> - - <p><b>Valdeblore, le</b><br /> - <i>Nice, France</i></p> - - <p>Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay</b><br /> - <i>Touraine, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season - from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.</p> - - <p><b>Valio</b><br /> - <i>Finland</i></p> - - <p>One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process - Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export - Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to - help them forget what real cheese is.</p> - - <p><b>Valsic</b><br /> - <i>Albania</i></p> - - <p>Crumbly and sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Varalpenland</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.</p> - - <p><b>Varennes, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 309 --><a name="Page_309" - id="Page_309"></a> <b>Västerbottenost</b><br /> - <i>West Bothnia</i></p> - - <p>Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a - pungent, almost bitter taste.</p> - - <p><b>Västgötaost</b><br /> - <i>West Gothland, Sweden</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. - Weight twenty to thirty pounds.</p> - - <p><b>Vendôme, Fromage de</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being - ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold - mostly in Paris.</p> - - <p><b>Veneto, Venezza</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.</p> - - <p><b>Vic-en-Bigorre</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.</p> - - <p><b>Victoria</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.</p> - - <p><b>Ville Saint-Jacques</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to - May.</p> - - <p><b>Villiers</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.</p> - - <p><b>Viry-vory, or Vary</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream cheese.</p> - - <p><b>Viterbo</b><br /> - <i>Italy</i></p> - - <p>Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, <i>Cynara - Scolymus</i>. Strong grating and seasoning type of the - Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.</p> - - <p><b>Vize</b><br /> - <i>Greece</i></p> - - <p>Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.</p> - - <p><b>Void</b><br /> - <i>Meuse, France</i></p> - - <p>Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 310 --><a name="Page_310" - id="Page_310"></a> <b>Volvet Kaas</b><br /> - <i>Holland</i></p> - - <p>The name means "full cream" cheese and that—according - to law—has 45% fat in the dry product (<i>See</i> - Gras.)</p> - - <p><b>Vorarlberg Sour-milk</b><br /> - <i>Greasy</i></p> - - <p>Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with - extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is - made of sour milk.</p> - - <p><b>Vory, le</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit - Suisse.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_W" - id="AtoZ_W"></a><br /> - W</h3> - - <p><b>Warshawski Syr</b><br /> - <i>Poland</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of - Poland.</p> - - <p><b>Warwickshire</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>Derbyshire type.</p> - - <p><b>Washed-curd cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and - any abnormal flavors.</p> - - <p><b>Wedesslborg</b><br /> - <i>Denmark</i></p> - - <p>A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good - if fully ripened.</p> - - <p><b>Weisschmiere</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes - four months.</p> - - <p><b>Weisslacker, White Lacquer</b><br /> - <i>Bavaria</i></p> - - <p>Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in - cylinders and rectangles, 4½ by 4 by 3½, weighing - 2½ pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.</p> - - <p><b>Welsh cheeses</b></p> - - <p>The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the - ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild - Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a - factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some - farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting - sensuousness <!-- Page 311 --><a name="Page_311" - id="Page_311"></a>that is found in the poems of John - Keats.</p> - - <p>"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no - longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so - called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old - church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses - would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen - Evans, aged 72.'" (From <i>My Wales</i> by Rhys Davies.)</p> - - <p><b>Wensleydale</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. England, Yorkshire. - Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to</span><br /> - Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale - in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in - season from June to September. It is put up in the same - cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is - corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.</p> - - <p>II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from - January through the Spring, skipping the season when the - greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to - be made again in the fall and winter.</p> - - <p><b>Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse</b><br /> - <i>West Prussia</i></p> - - <p>Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.</p> - - <p><b>West Friesian</b><br /> - <i>Netherlands</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored - antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English - couplet:</p> - - <div class="poem"> - <div class="stanza"> - <span>Good bread, good butter and good - cheese<br /></span> <span>Is good English and good - Friese.<br /></span> - </div> - </div> - - <p><!-- Page 312 --><a name="Page_312" - id="Page_312"></a> <b>Westphalia Sour Milk, or - Brioler</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg - yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. - Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls - or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours - before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is - due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being - allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before - pressing.</p> - - <p>This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It - is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to - Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" - inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well - over a century ago.</p> - - <p>The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a - Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.</p> - - <p><b>Whale Cheese</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>In <i>The Cheddar Box,</i> Dean Collins tells of an ancient - legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be - milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy - fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk - cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the - whales.</p> - - <p><b>White, Fromage Blanc</b><br /> - <i>France</i></p> - - <p>Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country - and eaten fresh, with or without salt.</p> - - <p><b>White Cheddar</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White - Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 313 --><a name="Page_313" - id="Page_313"></a> <b>White Gorgonzola</b></p> - - <p>This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little - known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (<i>See</i> - Gorgonzola.)</p> - - <p><b>White Stilton</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the - aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's - flag.</p> - - <p><b>Whitethorn</b><br /> - <i>Ireland</i></p> - - <p>Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the - same, except that it is colored.</p> - - <p><b>Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch</b><br /> - <i>Schleswig-Holstein, Germany</i></p> - - <p>Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; - made at Itzehoe.</p> - - <p><b>Wiltshire or Wilts</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. - (<i>See</i> North Wilts.)</p> - - <p><b>Wisconsin Factory Cheeses</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating - by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or - sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year - to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too - young.</p> - - <p>Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and - Swiss.</p> - - <p><b>Withania</b><br /> - <i>India</i></p> - - <p>Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of - rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania - berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, - but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.</p> - - <h3><!-- Page 314 --><a name="Page_314" - id="Page_314"></a> <a name="AtoZ_Y" - id="AtoZ_Y"></a><br /> - Y</h3> - - <p><b>Yoghurt, or Yogurt</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Made with <i>Bacillus bulgaricus</i>, that develops the - acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint - Ivel.</p> - - <p><b>York, York Curd and Cambridge York</b><br /> - <i>England</i></p> - - <p>A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which - are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type - is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw - mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.</p> - - <p><b>Yorkshire-Stilton</b><br /> - <i>Cotherstone, England</i></p> - - <p>This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age - a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a - general favorite with English epicures who like their game well - hung.</p> - - <p><b>York State</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Short for New York State, the most venerable of our - Cheddars.</p> - - <p><b>Young America</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.</p> - - <p><b>Yo-yo</b><br /> - <i>U.S.A.</i></p> - - <p>Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone - hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar - on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.</p> - - <h3><a name="AtoZ_Z" - id="AtoZ_Z"></a><br /> - Z</h3> - - <p><b>Ziegel</b><br /> - <i>Austria</i></p> - - <p>Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two - months.</p> - - <p><b>Ziegenkäse</b><br /> - <i>Germany</i></p> - - <p>A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's - milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.</p> - - <p><!-- Page 315 --><a name="Page_315" - id="Page_315"></a> <b>Ziger</b></p> - - <p><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">I. This whey product is - not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food</span><br /> - made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin - cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, - etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. - There is also a whey bread.</p> - - <p>II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk - instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small - cakes.</p> - - <p><b>Zips</b> <i>see</i> Brinza.</p> - - <p><b>Zomma</b><br /> - <i>Turkey</i></p> - - <p>Similar to Caciocavallo.</p> - - <p><b>Zwirn</b> <i>see</i> Tschil.</p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p><!-- Page 316 --><a name="Page_316" - id="Page_316"></a> </p> - - <p> </p> - - <div> - <img src="images/316.gif" - width="500" - height="237" - alt="Illustration" /> - </div> - - <h2>Index of Recipes</h2> - <!-- NOTE: Page Numbers in this document are numbered higher by 5 than - the numbers in the printed book, due to the title and table of contents pages. --> - - <p>American Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Angelic Camembert, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Apple and Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Apple Pie à la Cheese, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie Adorned, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - au Gratin<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggs, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomatoes, - <a href="#Page_130">125</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Blintzes, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - Brie or Camembert Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - <br /> - Camembert, Angelic, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, - <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> - Cheddar Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Cheese and Nut Salad, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Cheese and Pea Salad, <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Cheese Cake, Pineapple, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Cheese Charlotte, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Cheese Custard, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Pie, Open-faced, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - Cheese Sauce, Plain, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Cheese Waffles, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Chicken Cheese Soup, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - Cottage Cheese Pancakes, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Christmas Cake Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_125">120</a><br /> - Cold Dunking, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Custard, Cheese, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Dauphiny Ravioli, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Diablotins, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Dumpling, Napkin, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Dunking, Cold, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - <br /> - Eggs au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 317 --><a name="Page_317" - id="Page_317"></a> Flan au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_124">119</a><br /> - Fondue<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à l'Italienne, - <a href="#Page_89">84</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American, - <a href="#Page_90">85</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">au Fromage, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Baked Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brick, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - Quickie, <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar Dunk Bowl, - <a href="#Page_98">93</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, and Corn, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Rice, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chives, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Comtois, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_97">92</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel Style, - <a href="#Page_87">82</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">100% American, - <a href="#Page_95">90</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rice, and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_96">91</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sapsago Swiss, - <a href="#Page_91">86</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato - Baked,<a href="#Page_94">89</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vacherin-Fribourg, - <a href="#Page_93">88</a></span><br /> - Fritters, Italian, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Fritto Misto, Italian, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - <br /> - Garlic on Cheese, <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, <a href="#Page_132">127</a><br /> - <br /> - Italian Asparagus and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_115">110</a><br /> - Italian Fritters, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Italian Fritto Misto, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Italian-Swiss Scallopini, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Little Hats, Cappelletti, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Meal-in-One Omelet, A, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Miniature Pizzas, <a href="#Page_112">107</a><br /> - <br /> - Napkin Dumpling, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - <br /> - Omelet<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meal-in-One, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_140">135</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Cheese Sauce, - <a href="#Page_141">136</a></span><br /> - Onion Soup, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Onion Soup au Gratin, <a href="#Page_131">126</a><br /> - Open-faced Cheese Pie, <a href="#Page_123">118</a><br /> - <br /> - Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a><br /> - Parmesan Omelet, <a href="#Page_140">135</a><br /> - Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, - <a href="#Page_139">134</a><br /> - Pineapple Cheese Cake, <a href="#Page_122">117</a><br /> - Piroghs, Polish, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Pizza, <a href="#Page_111">106</a><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dough, - <a href="#Page_111">106</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Miniature, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Paste, - <a href="#Page_112">107</a></span><br /> - Polish Piroghs, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Potatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, <a href="#Page_142">137</a><br /> - Puffs<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Breakfast, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, New England, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish Fondue, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fried, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">New England Cheese, - <a href="#Page_105">100</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_104">99</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> - <br /> - Rabbit<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">After-Dinner, - <a href="#Page_60">55</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">All-American Succotash, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Woodchuck, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anchovy, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asparagus, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic</span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 1 (with beer), - <a href="#Page_54">49</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 2em;">No. 2 (with milk), - <a href="#Page_55">50</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Blushing Bunny, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <!-- Page 318 --><a name="Page_318" - id="Page_318"></a> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Border-hopping Bunny, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Bouquet of the Sea," - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buttermilk, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Celery and Onion, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chipped Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cream Cheese, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Crumby Tomato, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Curry, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Danish, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Devil's Own, The, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Maginn's, - <a href="#Page_59">54</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dried Beef, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dutch, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Easy English, - <a href="#Page_83">78</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eggnog, - <a href="#Page_82">77</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fish, Fresh or Dried, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fluffy, Eggy, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frijole, - <a href="#Page_65">60</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gherkin, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ginger Ale, - <a href="#Page_81">76</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Golden Buck II, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Sardine, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Tomato and Onion, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gruyère, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kansas Jack, - <a href="#Page_71">66</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Llanover's Toasted, - <a href="#Page_57">52</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Latin-American Corn, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mexican Chilaly, - <a href="#Page_69">64</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_72">67</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Original Recipe, Ye, - <a href="#Page_62">57</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oven, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oyster, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pink Poodle, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pumpernickel, - <a href="#Page_77">72</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Reducing, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roe, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Running, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sardine, Plain, - <a href="#Page_74">69</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savory Eggy Dry, - <a href="#Page_80">75</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Scotch Woodcock, - <a href="#Page_68">63</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_73">68</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoked fish, - <a href="#Page_75">70</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">South African Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish Sherry, - <a href="#Page_79">74</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stieff Recipe, The, - <a href="#Page_56">51</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_78">73</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato and Onion, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Crumby, - <a href="#Page_76">71</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, Grilled, - <a href="#Page_70">65</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato Soup, - <a href="#Page_67">62</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato, South American, - <a href="#Page_66">61</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yale College, - <a href="#Page_64">59</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yorkshire, - <a href="#Page_63">58</a></span><br /> - Ramekins<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">à la Parisienne, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Casserole, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese I, - <a href="#Page_106">101</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese II, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese III, - <a href="#Page_107">102</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese IV, - <a href="#Page_108">103</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Frying Pan, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Morézien, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Puff Paste, - <a href="#Page_110">105</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss-Roquefort, - <a href="#Page_109">104</a></span><br /> - Ravioli, Dauphiny, <a href="#Page_114">109</a><br /> - Roquefort, Champagned, <a href="#Page_127">122</a><br /> - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a><br /> - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - <!-- Page 319 --><a name="Page_319" - id="Page_319"></a> Salad<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">American Cheese, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apple and Cheese, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Brie, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Camembert, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Nut, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese and Pea, - <a href="#Page_135">130</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gorgonzola and Banana, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Green Cheese Salad Julienne, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rosie's Swiss Breakfast - Cheese, <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss Cheese, - <a href="#Page_134">129</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Three-in-One Mold, - <a href="#Page_133">128</a></span><br /> - Sandwiches<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Alpine Club, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Boston Beany, Open-face, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheeseburgers, - <a href="#Page_146">141</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Deviled Rye, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">French-fried Swiss, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, - <a href="#Page_147">142</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">He-man, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">International, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jurassiennes, or Croûtes - Comtoises, <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Kümmelkäse, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Limburger Onion, or Catsup, - <a href="#Page_148">143</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Meringue, Open-faced, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Neufchâtel and Honey, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Oskar's Ham-Cam, - <a href="#Page_149">144</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pickled Camembert, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Queijo da Serra, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roquefort Nut, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, - <a href="#Page_150">145</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tangy, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Toasted Cheese, - <a href="#Page_153">148</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Unusual—of - Flowers, Hay and Clover, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Vegetarian, - <a href="#Page_151">146</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Witch's, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Xochomilco, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yolk Picnic, - <a href="#Page_152">147</a></span><br /> - Sauce<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mornay, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parsleyed Cheese, - <a href="#Page_136">131</a></span><br /> - Sauce Mornay, <a href="#Page_136">131</a><br /> - Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, <a href="#Page_113">108</a><br /> - Schnitzelbank Pot, <a href="#Page_42">37</a><br /> - Soufflé<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Basic, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Corn, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese Fritter, - <a href="#Page_103">98</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Mushroom, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Potato, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Sea-food, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Spinach, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cheese-Tomato, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Corn-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mushroom-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan, - <a href="#Page_100">95</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parmesan-Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sea-food-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_102">97</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spinach-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tomato-Cheese, - <a href="#Page_101">96</a></span><br /> - Soup<br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chicken Cheese, - <a href="#Page_132">127</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Onion, au Gratin, - <a href="#Page_131">126</a></span><br /> - <span style="margin-left: 1em;">Supa Shetgia, - <a href="#Page_138">133</a></span><br /> - Spanish Flan—Quesillo, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Straws, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Stuffed Celery, <a href="#Page_137">132</a><br /> - Supa Shetgia, <a href="#Page_138">133</a><br /> - Swiss Cheese Salad, <a href="#Page_134">129</a><br /> - <br /> - Three-in-One Mold, <a href="#Page_133">128</a><br /> - Tomato Omelet, <a href="#Page_141">136</a><br /> - Tomatoes au Gratin, <a href="#Page_130">125</a><br /> - <br /> - Vatroushki, <a href="#Page_116">111</a><br /> - <br /> - Waffles, Cheese, <a href="#Page_117">112</a></p> - - <p> </p> - <hr style="width: 65%;" /> - - <p> </p> - - <h2><a name="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR" - id="ABOUT_THE_AUTHOR"></a> - <!-- Page 320 --><a name="Page_320" - id="Page_320"></a> <img src="images/320.gif" - width="125" - height="100" - alt="Illustration: house" /> ABOUT THE AUTHOR</h2> - <hr style="width: 75%;" /> - - <p>Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign - lands and enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, - returned to New York and summed them all up in this book.</p> - - <p>Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School - and entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment - when a number of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy - state began teaching their students how to hole an - Emmentaler.</p> - - <p>After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to - Munich, Bob celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book - called <i>Let There Be Beer!</i> and then decided to write - another about Beer's best friend, Cheese. But first he - collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose on <i>The Wine - Cookbook</i>, still in print after nearly twenty-five years. - This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's - dozen food-and-drink books, including: <i>America Cooks, 10,000 - Snacks, Fish and Seafood</i> and <i>The South American - Cookbook</i>.</p> - - <p>For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio - de Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, - from 1907 to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories - and serials under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of - his first books, <i>What Happened to Mary</i>, became a best - seller and was the first five-reel movie. This put him in - <i>Who's Who</i> in his early twenties.</p> - - <p>In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of - years spent in collecting books and bibelots throughout - <!-- Page 321 --><a name="Page_321" - id="Page_321"></a> the Orient, he settled down in Paris with - the expatriate group of Americans and invented the Reading - Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his - <i>Words</i> and Harry Crosby printed <i>1450-1950</i> at - the Black Sun Press, while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own - imprint Roving Eye Press, that turned out <i>Demonics; Gems, - a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding</i> and <i>Readies for - Bob Brown's Machine</i> with contributions by Gertrude - Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell <i>et - al.</i></p> - - <p>The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade - later he returned to Brazil that had long been his home away - from home. There he wrote <i>The Amazing Amazon</i>, with his - wife Rose, making a total of thirty books bearing his name.</p> - - <p>After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed - their mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New - York where he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village - of his free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working - library in a score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis - of a mail-order book business in which he specializes today in - food, drink and other out-of-the-way items.</p> - - <p> </p> - - <div class="blockquot"> - <p><!-- Page 322 --><a name="Page_322" - id="Page_322"></a> [Compiler's Notes: Moved page on - author's other books from page 1 of project to follow - the title page.<br /> - Removed publisher's copyright information from page - 3.<br /> - Removed references to Introduction, as it was omitted from - the book project.<br /> - Added A to Z links to the Appendix in the Table of - Contents]</p> - </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293-h.htm or 14293-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Complete Book of Cheese - -Author: Robert Carlton Brown - -Release Date: December 7, 2004 [EBook #14293] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - - - - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -BOB BROWN - - -The Complete Book -of Cheese - - -_Illustrations by_ Eric Blegvad - -[Illustration] - -_Gramercy Publishing Company - -New York_ -1955 - - -_Author of_ - -THE WINE COOK BOOK - -AMERICA COOKS - -10,000 SNACKS - -SALADS AND HERBS - -THE SOUTH AMERICAN COOK BOOK - -SOUPS, SAUCES AND GRAVIES - -THE VEGETABLE COOK BOOK - -LOOK BEFORE YOU COOK! - -THE EUROPEAN COOK BOOK - -THE WINING AND DINING QUIZ - -MOST FOR YOUR MONEY - -OUTDOOR COOKING - -FISH AND SEAFOOD COOK BOOK - -THE COUNTRY COOK BOOK - -_Co-author of Food and Drink Books by_ The Browns - -LET THERE BE BEER! - -HOMEMADE HILARITY - - - - -[Illustration: TO] - -TO - -PHIL - -ALPERT - -_Turophile Extraordinary_ - - - - -[Illustration: Contents] - -1 I Remember Cheese - -2 The Big Cheese - -3 Foreign Greats - -4 Native Americans - -5 Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - -6 The Fondue - -7 Souffles, Puffs and Ramekins - -8 Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes and Cheese Cake - -9 Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - -10 Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - -11 "Fit for Drink" - -12 Lazy Lou - - -APPENDIX--The A-B-Z of Cheese - -INDEX OF RECIPES - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter One_ - -I Remember Cheese - - -Cheese market day in a town in the north of Holland. All the -cheese-fanciers are out, thumping the cannon-ball Edams and the -millstone Goudas with their bare red knuckles, plugging in with a -hollow steel tool for samples. In Holland the business of judging a -crumb of cheese has been taken with great seriousness for centuries. -The abracadabra is comparable to that of the wine-taster or -tea-taster. These Edamers have the trained ear of music-masters and, -merely by knuckle-rapping, can tell down to an air pocket left by a -gas bubble just how mature the interior is. - -The connoisseurs use gingerbread as a mouth-freshener; and I, too, -that sunny day among the Edams, kept my gingerbread handy and made my -way from one fine cheese to another, trying out generous plugs from -the heaped cannon balls that looked like the ammunition dump at -Antietam. - -I remember another market day, this time in Lucerne. All morning I -stocked up on good Schweizerkaese and better Gruyere. For lunch I had -cheese salad. All around me the farmers were rolling two-hundred-pound -Emmentalers, bigger than oxcart wheels. I sat in a little cafe, -absorbing cheese and cheese lore in equal quantities. I learned that a -prize cheese must be chock-full of equal-sized eyes, the gas holes -produced during fermentation. They must glisten like polished bar -glass. The cheese itself must be of a light, lemonish yellow. Its -flavor must be nutlike. (Nuts and Swiss cheese complement each other -as subtly as Gorgonzola and a ripe banana.) There are, I learned, -"blind" Swiss cheeses as well, but the million-eyed ones are better. - -But I don't have to hark back to Switzerland and Holland for cheese -memories. Here at home we have increasingly taken over the cheeses of -all nations, first importing them, then imitating them, from Swiss -Engadine to what we call Genuine Sprinz. We've naturalized -Scandinavian Blues and smoked browns and baptized our own Saaland -Pfarr in native whiskey. Of fifty popular Italian types we duplicate -more than half, some fairly well, others badly. - -We have our own legitimate offspring too, beginning with the -Pineapple, supposed to have been first made about 1845 in Litchfield -County, Connecticut. We have our own creamy Neufchatel, New York Coon, -Vermont Sage, the delicious Liederkranz, California Jack, Nuworld, and -dozens of others, not all quite so original. - -And, true to the American way, we've organized cheese-eating. There's -an annual cheese week, and a cheese month (October). We even boast a -mail-order Cheese-of-the-Month Club. We haven't yet reached the point -of sophistication, however, attained by a Paris cheese club that meets -regularly. To qualify for membership you have to identify two hundred -basic cheeses, and you have to do it blindfolded. - -This is a test I'd prefer not to submit to, but in my amateur way I -have during the past year or two been sharpening my cheese perception -with whatever varieties I could encounter around New York. I've run -into briny Caucasian Cossack, Corsican Gricotta, and exotics like -Rarush Durmar, Travnik, and Karaghi La-la. Cheese-hunting is one of -the greatest--and least competitively crowded--of sports. I hope this -book may lead others to give it a try. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Two_ - -The Big Cheese - - -One of the world's first outsize cheeses officially weighed in at four -tons in a fair at Toronto, Canada, seventy years ago. Another -monstrous Cheddar tipped the scales at six tons in the New York State -Fair at Syracuse in 1937. - -Before this, a one-thousand-pounder was fetched all the way from New -Zealand to London to star in the Wembley Exposition of 1924. But, -compared to the outsize Syracusan, it looked like a Baby Gouda. As a -matter of fact, neither England nor any of her great dairying colonies -have gone in for mammoth jobs, except Canada, with that four-tonner -shown at Toronto. - -We should mention two historic king-size Chesters. You can find out -all about them in _Cheddar Gorge,_ edited by Sir John Squire. The -first of them weighed 149 pounds, and was the largest made, up to the -year 1825. It was proudly presented to H.R.H. the Duke of York. (Its -heft almost tied the 147-pound Green County wheel of Wisconsin Swiss -presented by the makers to President Coolidge in 1928 in appreciation -of his raising the protective tariff against genuine Swiss to 50 -percent.) While the cheese itself weighed a mite under 150, His Royal -Highness, ruff, belly, knee breeches, doffed high hat and all, was a -hundred-weight heavier, and thus almost dwarfed it. - -It was almost a century later that the second record-breaking Chester -weighed in, at only 200 pounds. Yet it won a Gold Medal and a -Challenge Cup and was presented to the King, who graciously accepted -it. This was more than Queen Victoria had done with a bridal gift -cheese that tipped the scales at 1,100 pounds. It took a whole day's -yield from 780 contented cows, and stood a foot and eight inches high, -measuring nine feet, four inches around the middle. The assembled -donors of the cheese were so proud of it that they asked royal -permission to exhibit it on a round of country fairs. The Queen -assented to this ambitious request, perhaps prompted by the -exhibition-minded Albert. The publicity-seeking cheesemongers assured -Her Majesty that the gift would be returned to her just as soon as it -had been exhibited. But the Queen didn't want it back after it was -show-worn. The donors began to quarrel among themselves about what to -do with the remains, until finally it got into Chancery where so many -lost causes end their days. The cheese was never heard of again. - -While it is generally true that the bigger the cheese the better, -(much the same as a magnum bottle of champagne is better than a pint), -there is a limit to the obesity of a block, ball or brick of almost -any kinds of cheese. When they pass a certain limit, they lack -homogeneity and are not nearly so good as the smaller ones. Today a -good magnum size for an exhibition Cheddar is 560 pounds; for a prize -Provolone, 280 pounds; while a Swiss wheel of only 210 will draw -crowds to any food-shop window. - -Yet by and large it's the monsters that get into the Cheese Hall of -Fame and come down to us in song and story. For example, that four-ton -Toronto affair inspired a cheese poet, James McIntyre, who doubled as -the local undertaker. - - We have thee, mammoth cheese, - Lying quietly at your ease; - Gently fanned by evening breeze, - Thy fair form no flies dare seize. - - All gaily dressed soon you'll go - To the greatest provincial show, - To be admired by many a beau - In the city of Toronto. - - May you not receive a scar as - We have heard that Mr. Harris - Intends to send you off as far as - The great world's show at Paris. - - Of the youth beware of these, - For some of them might rudely squeeze - And bite your cheek; then song or glees - We could not sing, oh, Queen of Cheese. - -An ode to a one hundred percent American mammoth was inspired by "The -Ultra-Democratic, Anti-Federalist Cheese of Cheshire." This was in the -summer of 1801 when the patriotic people of Cheshire, Massachusetts, -turned out en masse to concoct a mammoth cheese on the village green -for presentation to their beloved President Jefferson. The unique -demonstration occurred spontaneously in jubilant commemoration of the -greatest political triumph of a new country in a new century--the -victory of the Democrats over the Federalists. Its collective making -was heralded in Boston's _Mercury and New England Palladium_, -September 8, 1801: - - _The Mammoth Cheese_ - - AN EPICO-LYRICO BALLAD - - From meadows rich, with clover red, - A thousand heifers come; - The tinkling bells the tidings spread, - The milkmaid muffles up her head, - And wakes the village hum. - - In shining pans the snowy flood - Through whitened canvas pours; - The dyeing pots of otter good - And rennet tinged with madder blood - Are sought among their stores. - - The quivering curd, in panniers stowed, - Is loaded on the jade, - The stumbling beast supports the load, - While trickling whey bedews the road - Along the dusty glade. - - As Cairo's slaves, to bondage bred, - The arid deserts roam, - Through trackless sands undaunted tread, - With skins of water on their head - To cheer their masters home, - - So here full many a sturdy swain - His precious baggage bore; - Old misers e'en forgot their gain, - And bed-rid cripples, free from pain, - Now took the road before. - - The widow, with her dripping mite - Upon her saddle horn, - Rode up in haste to see the sight - And aid a charity so right, - A pauper so forlorn. - - The circling throng an opening drew - Upon the verdant-grass - To let the vast procession through - To spread their rich repast in view, - And Elder J. L. pass. - - Then Elder J. with lifted eyes - In musing posture stood, - Invoked a blessing from the skies - To save from vermin, mites and flies, - And keep the bounty good. - - Now mellow strokes the yielding pile - From polished steel receives, - And shining nymphs stand still a while, - Or mix the mass with salt and oil, - With sage and savory leaves. - - Then sextonlike, the patriot troop, - With naked arms and crown, - Embraced, with hardy hands, the scoop, - And filled the vast expanded hoop, - While beetles smacked it down. - - Next girding screws the ponderous beam, - With heft immense, drew down; - The gushing whey from every seam - Flowed through the streets a rapid stream, - And shad came up to town. - -This spirited achievement of early democracy is commemorated today by -a sign set up at the ancient and honorable town of Cheshire, located -between Pittsfield and North Adams, on Route 8. - -Jefferson's speech of thanks to the democratic people of Cheshire -rings out in history: "I look upon this cheese as a token of fidelity -from the very heart of the people of this land to the great cause of -equal rights to all men." - -This popular presentation started a tradition. When Van Buren -succeeded to the Presidency, he received a similar mammoth cheese in -token of the high esteem in which he was held. A monstrous one, bigger -than the Jeffersonian, was made by New Englanders to show their -loyalty to President Jackson. For weeks this stood in state in the -hall of the White House. At last the floor was a foot deep in the -fragments remaining after the enthusiastic Democrats had eaten their -fill. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Three_ - -Foreign Greats - - _Ode to Cheese_ - - - God of the country, bless today Thy cheese, - For which we give Thee thanks on bended knees. - Let them be fat or light, with onions blent, - Shallots, brine, pepper, honey; whether scent - Of sheep or fields is in them, in the yard - Let them, good Lord, at dawn be beaten hard. - And let their edges take on silvery shades - Under the moist red hands of dairymaids; - And, round and greenish, let them go to town - Weighing the shepherd's folding mantle down; - Whether from Parma or from Jura heights, - Kneaded by august hands of Carmelites, - Stamped with the mitre of a proud abbess. - Flowered with the perfumes of the grass of Bresse, - From hollow Holland, from the Vosges, from Brie, - From Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Italy! - Bless them, good Lord! Bless Stilton's royal fare, - Red Cheshire, and the tearful cream Gruyere. - - FROM JETHRO BITHELL'S TRANSLATION - OF A POEM BY M. Thomas Braun - - _Symphonie des Fromages_ - - A giant Cantal, seeming to have been chopped open with an ax, - stood aside of a golden-hued Chester and a Swiss Gruyere - resembling the wheel of a Roman chariot There were Dutch Edams, - round and blood-red, and Port-Saluts lined up like soldiers on - parade. Three Bries, side by side, suggested phases of the moon; - two of them, very dry, were amber-colored and "full," and the - third, in its second quarter, was runny and creamy, with a "milky - way" which no human barrier seemed able to restrain. And all the - while majestic Roqueforts looked down with princely contempt upon - the other, through the glass of their crystal covers. - - Emile Zola - -In 1953 the United States Department of Agriculture published Handbook -No. 54, entitled _Cheese Varieties and Descriptions,_ with this -comment: "There probably are only about eighteen distinct types or -kinds of natural cheese." All the rest (more than 400 names) are of -local origin, usually named after towns or communities. A list of the -best-known names applied to each of these distinct varieties or groups -is given: - - Brick Gouda Romano - Camembert Hand Roquefort - Cheddar Limburger Sapsago - Cottage Neufchatel Swiss - Cream Parmesan Trappist - Edam Provolone Whey cheeses (Mysost and Ricotta) - - -May we nominate another dozen to form our own Cheese Hall of Fame? We -begin our list with a partial roll call of the big Blues family and -end it with members of the monastic order of Port-Salut Trappist that -includes Canadian Oka and our own Kentucky thoroughbred. - - -The Blues that Are Green - -Stilton, Roquefort and Gorgonzola form the triumvirate that rules a -world of lesser Blues. They are actually green, as green as the -mythical cheese the moon is made of. - -In almost every, land where cheese is made you can sample a handful of -lesser Blues and imitations of the invincible three and try to -classify them, until you're blue in the face. The best we can do in -this slight summary is to mention a few of the most notable, aside -from our own Blues of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and other states -that major in cheese. - -Danish Blues are popular and splendidly made, such as "Flower of -Denmark." The Argentine competes with a pampas-grass Blue all its own. -But France and England are the leaders in this line, France first with -a sort of triple triumvirate within a triumvirate--Septmoncel, Gex, -and Sassenage, all three made with three milks mixed together: cow, -goat and sheep. Septmoncel is the leader of these, made in the Jura -mountains and considered by many French caseophiles to outrank -Roquefort. - -This class of Blue or marbled cheese is called fromage persille, as -well as fromage bleu and pate bleue. Similar mountain cheeses are made -in Auvergne and Aubrac and have distinct qualities that have brought -them fame, such as Cantal, bleu d'Auvergne Guiole or Laguiole, bleu de -Salers, and St. Flour. Olivet and Queville come within the color -scheme, and sundry others such as Champoleon, Journiac, Queyras and -Sarraz. - -Of English Blues there are several celebrities beside Stilton and -Cheshire Stilton. Wensleydale was one in the early days, and still -is, together with Blue Dorset, the deepest green of them all, and -esoteric Blue Vinny, a choosey cheese not liked by everybody, the -favorite of Thomas Hardy. - - -Brie - -Sheila Hibben once wrote in _The New Yorker:_ - -I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen -of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly -ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly -fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you -down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or -at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come -on the tenth Brie, _coulant_ to just the right, delicate creaminess, -and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with -it. - -The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only -months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar -none. - - -Caciocavallo - -From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo -translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the -Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations -are made and named after it, as follows: - - BULGARIA: Kascaval - - GREECE: Kashcavallo and Caskcaval - - HUNGARY: Parenica - - RUMANIA: Pentele and Kascaval - - SERBIA: Katschkawalj - - SYRIA: Cashkavallo - - TRANSYLVANIA: Kascaval (as in Rumania) - - TURKEY: Cascaval Penir - - YUGOSLAVIA: Kackavalj - -A horse's head printed on the cheese gave rise to its popular name and -to the myth that it is made of mare's milk. It is, however, curded -from cow's milk, whole or partly skimmed, and sometimes from water -buffalo; hard, yellow and so buttery that the best of it, which comes -from Sorrento, is called _Cacio burro,_ butter cheese. Slightly salty, -with a spicy tang, it is eaten sliced when young and mild and used for -grating and seasoning when old, not only on the usual Italian pastes -but on sweets. - -Different from the many grating cheeses made from little balls of curd -called _grana_, Caciocavallo is a _pasta fileta_, or drawn-curd -product. Because of this it is sometimes drawn out in long thick -threads and braided. It is a cheese for skilled artists to make -sculptures with, sometimes horses' heads, again bunches of grapes and -other fruits, even as Provolone is shaped like apples and pears and -often worked into elaborate bas-relief designs. But ordinarily the -horse's head is a plain tenpin in shape or a squat bottle with a knob -on the side by which it has been tied up, two cheeses at a time, on -opposite sides of a rafter, while being smoked lightly golden and -rubbed with olive oil and butter to make it all the more buttery. - -In Calabria and Sicily it is very popular, and although the best comes -from Sorrento, there is keen competition from Abruzzi, Apulian -Province and Molise. It keeps well and doesn't spoil when shipped -overseas. - -In his _Little Book of Cheese_ Osbert Burdett recommends the high, -horsy strength of this smoked Cacio over tobacco smoke after dinner: - - Only monsters smoke at meals, but a monster assured me that - Gorgonzola best survives this malpractice. Clearly, some pungency - is necessary, and confidence suggests rather Cacio which would - survive anything, the monster said. - -Camembert - -Camembert is called "mold-matured" and all that is genuine is labeled -_Syndicat du Vrai Camembert_. The name in full is _Syndicat des -Fabricants du Veritable Camembert de Normandie_ and we agree that this -is "a most useful association for the defense of one of the best -cheeses of France." Its extremely delicate piquance cannot be matched, -except perhaps by Brie. - -Napoleon is said to have named it and to have kissed the waitress who -first served it to him in the tiny town of Camembert. And there a -statue stands today in the market place to honor Marie Harel who made -the first Camembert. - -Camembert is equally good on thin slices of apple, pineapple, pear, -French "flute" or pumpernickel. As-with Brie and with oysters, -Camembert should be eaten only in the "R" months, and of these -September is the best. - -Since Camembert rhymes with beware, if you can't get the _veritable_ -don't fall for a domestic imitation or any West German abomination -such as one dressed like a valentine in a heart-shaped box and labeled -"Camembert--Cheese Exquisite." They are equally tasteless, chalky with -youth, or choking with ammoniacal gas when old and decrepit. - -Cheddar - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ says: - - Cheddar cheese is one of the kings of cheese; it is pale coloured, - mellow, salvy, and, when good, resembling a hazelnut in flavour. - The Cheddar principle pervades the whole cheesemaking districts - of America, Canada and New Zealand, but no cheese imported into - England can equal the Cheddars of Somerset and the West of - Scotland. - -Named for a village near Bristol where farmer Joseph Harding first -manufactured it, the best is still called Farmhouse Cheddar, but in -America we have practically none of this. Farmhouse Cheddar must be -ripened at least nine months to a mellowness, and little of our -American cheese gets as much as that. Back in 1695 John Houghton wrote -that it "contended in goodness (if kept from two to five years, -according to magnitude) with any cheese in England." - -Today it is called "England's second-best cheese," second after -Stilton, of course. - -In early days a large cheese sufficed for a year or two of family -feeding, according to this old note: "A big Cheddar can be kept for -two years in excellent condition if kept in a cool room and turned -over every other day." - -But in old England some were harder to preserve: "In Bath... I asked -one lady of the larder how she kept Cheddar cheese. Her eyes twinkled: -'We don't keep cheese; we eats it.'" - -Cheshire - -A Cheshireman sailed into Spain -To trade for merchandise; -When he arrived from the main -A Spaniard him espies. -Who said, "You English rogue, look here! -What fruits and spices fine -Our land produces twice a year. -Thou has not such in thine." - -The Cheshireman ran to his hold -And fetched a Cheshire cheese, -And said, "Look here, you dog, behold! -We have such fruits as these. -Your fruits are ripe but twice a year, -As you yourself do say, -But such as I present you here -Our land brings twice a day." - -Anonymous - - Let us pass on to cheese. We have some glorious cheeses, and far - too few people glorying in them. The Cheddar of the inn, of the - chophouse, of the average English home, is a libel on a thing - which, when authentic, is worthy of great honor. Cheshire, - divinely commanded into existence as to three parts to precede - and as to one part to accompany certain Tawny Ports and some - Late-Bottled Ports, can be a thing for which the British Navy - ought to fire a salute on the principle on which Colonel Brisson - made his regiment salute when passing the great Burgundian - vineyard. - - T. Earle Welby, - - IN "THE DINNER KNELL" - -Cheshire is not only the most literary cheese in England, but the -oldest. It was already manufactured when Caesar conquered Britain, and -tradition is that the Romans built the walled city of Chester to -control the district where the precious cheese was made. Chester on -the River Dee was a stronghold against the Roman invasion. - -It came to fame with The Old Cheshire Cheese in Elizabethan times and -waxed great with Samuel Johnson presiding at the Fleet Street Inn -where White Cheshire was served "with radishes or watercress or celery -when in season," and Red Cheshire was served toasted or stewed in a -sort of Welsh Rabbit. (_See_ Chapter 5.) - -The Blue variety is called Cheshire-Stilton, and Vyvyan Holland, in -_Cheddar Gorge_ suggests that "it was no doubt a cheese of this sort, -discovered and filched from the larder of the Queen of Hearts, that -accounted for the contented grin on the face of the Cheshire Cat in -Alice in Wonderland." - -All very English, as recorded in Victor Meusy's couplet: - - _Dans le Chester sec et rose - A longues dents, l'Anglais mord._ - - In the Chester dry and pink - The long teeth of the English sink. - -Edam and Gouda - _Edam in Peace and War_ - -There also coming into the river two Dutchmen, we sent a couple of men -on board and brought three Holland cheeses, cost 4d. a piece, -excellent cheeses. - -Pepys' _Diary_, March 2,1663 - - Commodore Coe, of the Montevidian Navy, defeated Admiral Brown of - the Buenos Ayrean Navy, in a naval battle, when he used Holland - cheese for cannon balls. - - _The Harbinger_ (Vermont), December 11, 1847 - -The crimson cannon balls of Holland have been heard around the world. -Known as "red balls" in England and _katzenkopf,_ "cat's head," in -Germany, they differ from Gouda chiefly in the shape, Gouda being -round but flattish and now chiefly imported as one-pound Baby Goudas. - -Edam when it is good is very, very good, but when it is bad it is -horrid. Sophisticated ones are sent over already scalloped for the -ultimate consumer to add port, and there are crocks of Holland cheese -potted with sauterne. Both Edam and Gouda should be well aged to -develop full-bodied quality, two years being the accepted standard for -Edam. - -The best Edams result from a perfect combination of Breed -(black-and-white Dutch Friesian) and Feed (the rich pasturage of -Friesland and Noord Holland). - -The Goudas, shaped like English Derby and Belgian Delft and Leyden, -come from South Holland. Some are specially made for the Jewish trade -and called Kosher Gouda. Both Edam and Gouda are eaten at mealtimes -thrice daily in Holland. A Dutch breakfast without one or the other on -black bread with butter and black coffee would be unthinkable. They're -also boon companions to plum bread and Dutch cocoa. - -"Eclair Edams" are those with soft insides. - -Emmentaler, Gruyere and Swiss - - When the working woman - Takes her midday lunch, - It is a piece of Gruyere - Which for her takes the place of roast. - -Victor Meusy - -Whether an Emmentaler is eminently Schweizerkaese, grand Gruyere from -France, or lesser Swiss of the United States, the shape, size and -glisten of the eyes indicate the stage of ripeness, skill of making -and quality of flavor. They must be uniform, roundish, about the size -of a big cherry and, most important of all, must glisten like the eye -of a lass in love, dry but with the suggestion of a tear. - -Gruyere does not see eye to eye with the big-holed Swiss Saanen -cartwheel or American imitation. It has tiny holes, and many of them; -let us say it is freckled with pinholes, rather than pock-marked. This -variety is technically called a _niszler_, while one without any holes -at all is "blind." Eyes or holes are also called vesicles. - -Gruyere Trauben (Grape Gruyere) is aged in Neuchatel wine in -Switzerland, although most Gruyere has been made in France since its -introduction there in 1722. The most famous is made in the Jura, and -another is called Comte from its origin in Franche-Comte. - -A blind Emmentaler was made in Switzerland for export to Italy where -it was hardened in caves to become a grating cheese called Raper, and -now it is largely imitated there. Emmentaler, in fact, because of its -piquant pecan-nut flavor and inimitable quality, is simulated -everywhere, even in Switzerland. - -Besides phonies from Argentina and countries as far off as Finland, we -get a flood of imported and domestic Swisses of all sad sorts, with -all possible faults--from too many holes, that make a flabby, wobbly -cheese, to too few--cracked, dried-up, collapsed or utterly ruined by -molding inside. So it will pay you to buy only the kind already marked -genuine in Switzerland. For there cheese such as Saanen takes six -years to ripen, improves with age, and keeps forever. - -Cartwheels well over a hundred years old are still kept in cheese -cellars (as common in Switzerland as wine cellars are in France), and -it is said that the rank of a family is determined by the age and -quality of the cheese in its larder. - - -Feta and Casere - -The Greeks have a name for it--Feta. Their neighbors call it Greek -cheese. Feta is to cheese what Hymettus is to honey. The two together -make ambrosial manna. Feta is soft and as blinding white as a plate of -fresh Ricotta smothered with sour cream. The whiteness is preserved by -shipping the cheese all the way from Greece in kegs sloshing full of -milk, the milk being renewed from time to time. Having been cured in -brine, this great sheep-milk curd is slightly salty and somewhat -sharp, but superbly spicy. - -When first we tasted it fresh from the keg with salty milk dripping -through our fingers, we gave it full marks. This was at the Staikos -Brothers Greek-import store on West 23rd Street in Manhattan. We then -compared Feta with thin wisps of its grown-up brother, Casere. This -gray and greasy, hard and brittle palate-tickler of sheep's milk made -us bleat for more Feta. - - -Gorgonzola - -Gorgonzola, least pretentious of the Blues triumvirate (including -Roquefort and Stilton) is nonetheless by common consent monarch of all -other Blues from Argentina to Denmark. In England, indeed, many -epicures consider Gorgonzola greater than Stilton, which is the -highest praise any cheese can get there. Like all great cheeses it -has been widely imitated, but never equaled. Imported Gorgonzola, when -fruity ripe, is still firm but creamy and golden inside with rich -green veins running through. Very pungent and highly flavored, it is -eaten sliced or crumbled to flavor salad dressings, like Roquefort. - - -Hable Creme Chantilly - -The name Hable Creme Chantilly sounds French, but the cheese is -Swedish and actually lives up to the blurb in the imported package: -"The overall characteristic is indescribable and delightful -freshness." - -This exclusive product of the Walk Gaerd Creamery was hailed by Sheila -Hibben in _The New Yorker_ of May 6, 1950, as enthusiastically as -Brillat-Savarin would have greeted a new dish, or the Planetarium a -new star: - - Endeavoring to be as restrained as I can, I shall merely suggest - that the arrival of Creme Chantilly is a historic event and that - in reporting on it I feel something of the responsibility that - the contemporaries of Madame Harel, the famous cheese-making lady - of Normandy, must have felt when they were passing judgment on - the first Camembert. - -Miss Hibben goes on to say that only a fromage a la creme made in -Quebec had come anywhere near her impression of the new Swedish -triumph. She quotes the last word from the makers themselves: "This is -a very special product that has never been made on this earth before," -and speaks of "the elusive flavor of mushrooms" before summing up, -"the exquisitely textured curd and the unexpectedly fresh flavor -combine to make it one of the most subtly enjoyable foods that have -come my way in a long time." - -And so say we--all of us. - -Hand Cheese - -Hand cheese has this niche in our Cheese Hall of Fame not because we -consider it great, but because it is usually included among the -eighteen varieties on which the hundreds of others are based. It is -named from having been molded into its final shape by hand. -Universally popular with Germanic races, it is too strong for the -others. To our mind, Hand cheese never had anything that Allgaeuer or -Limburger hasn't improved upon. - -It is the only cheese that is commonly melted into steins of beer and -drunk instead of eaten. It is usually studded with caraway seeds, the -most natural spice for curds. - - -Limburger - -Limburger has always been popular in America, ever since it was -brought over by German-American immigrants; but England never took to -it. This is eloquently expressed in the following entry in the English -_Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_: - - Limburger cheese is chiefly famous for its pungently offensive - odor. It is made from skimmed milk, and allowed to partially - decompose before pressing. It is very little known in this - country, and might be less so with advantage to consumers. - -But this is libel. Butter-soft and sapid, Limburger has brought -gustatory pleasure to millions of hardy gastronomes since it came to -light in the province of Luettich in Belgium. It has been Americanized -for almost a century and is by now one of the very few cheeses -successfully imitated here, chiefly in New York and Wisconsin. - -Early Wisconsiners will never forget the Limburger Rebellion in Green -County, when the people rose in protest against the Limburger caravan -that was accustomed to park in the little town of Monroe where it was -marketed. They threatened to stage a modern Boston Tea Party and dump -the odoriferous bricks in the river, when five or six wagonloads were -left ripening in the sun in front of the town bank. The Limburger was -finally stored safely underground. - - -Livarot - -Livarot has been described as decadent, "The very Verlaine of them -all," and Victor Meusy personifies it in a poem dedicated to all the -great French cheeses, of which we give a free translation: - - In the dog days - In its overflowing dish - Livarot gesticulates - Or weeps like a child. - - -Muenster - - At the diplomatic banquet - One must choose his piece. - All is politics, - A cheese and a flag. - - You annoy the Russians - If you take Chester; - You irritate the Prussians - In choosing Muenster. - - -Victor Meusy - -Like Limburger, this male cheese, often caraway-flavored, does not -fare well in England. Although over here we consider Muenster far -milder than Limburger, the English writer Eric Weir in _When Madame -Cooks_ will have none of it: - -I cannot think why this cheese was not thrown from the aeroplanes -during the war to spread panic amongst enemy troops. It would have -proved far more efficacious than those nasty deadly gases that kill -people permanently. - - -Neufchatel - - If the cream cheese be white - Far fairer the hands that made them. - - Arthur Hugh Clough - -Although originally from Normandy, Neufchatel, like Limburger, was so -long ago welcomed to America and made so splendidly at home here that -we may consider it our very own. All we have against it is that it has -served as the model for too many processed abominations. - -Parmesan, Romano, Pecorino, Pecorino Romano - -Parmesan when young, soft and slightly crumbly is eaten on bread. But -when well aged, let us say up to a century, it becomes Rock of -Gibraltar of cheeses and really suited for grating. It is easy to -believe that the so-called "Spanish cheese" used as a barricade by -Americans in Nicaragua almost a century ago was none other than the -almost indestructible Grana, as Parmesan is called in Italy. - -The association between cheese and battling began in B.C. days with -the Jews and Romans, who fed cheese to their soldiers not only for its -energy value but as a convenient form of rations, since every army -travels on its stomach and can't go faster than its impedimenta. The -last notable mention of cheese in war was the name of the _Monitor_: -"A cheese box on a raft." - -Romano is not as expensive as Parmesan, although it is as friable, -sharp and tangy for flavoring, especially for soups such as onion and -minestrone. It is brittle and just off-white when well aged. - -Although made of sheep's milk, Pecorino is classed with both Parmesan -and Romano. All three are excellently imitated in Argentina. Romano -and Pecorino Romano are interchangeable names for the strong, -medium-sharp and piquant Parmesan types that sell for considerably -less. Most of it is now shipped from Sardinia. There are several -different kinds: Pecorino Dolce (sweet), Sardo Tuscano, and Pecorino -Romano Cacio, which relates it to Caciocavallo. - -Kibitzers complain that some of the cheaper types of Pecorino are -soapy, but fans give it high praise. Gillian F., in her "Letter from -Italy" in Osbert Burdett's delectable _Little Book of Cheese_, writes: - - Out in the orchard, my companion, I don't remember how, had - provided the miracle: a flask of wine, a loaf of bread and a slab - of fresh Pecorino cheese (there wasn't any "thou" for either) ... - But that cheese was Paradise; and the flask was emptied, and a - wood dove cooing made you think that the flask's contents were in - a crystal goblet instead of an enamel cup ... one only ... and - the cheese broken with the fingers ... a cheese of cheeses. - - -Pont L'Eveque - -This semisoft, medium-strong, golden-tinted French classic made since -the thirteenth century, is definitely a dessert cheese whose -excellence is brought out best by a sound claret or tawny port. - - -Port-Salut (_See_ Trappist) - - -Provolone - -Within recent years Provolone has taken America by storm, as -Camembert, Roquefort, Swiss, Limburger, Neufchatel and such great -ones did long before. But it has not been successfully imitated here -because the original is made of rich water-buffalo milk unattainable -in the Americas. - -With Caciocavallo, this mellow, smoky flavorsome delight is put up in -all sorts of artistic forms, red-cellophaned apples, pears, bells, a -regular zoo of animals, and in all sorts of sizes, up to a monumental -hundred-pound bas-relief imported for exhibition purposes by Phil -Alpert. - - -Roquefort - -Homage to this _fromage!_ Long hailed as _le roi_ Roquefort, it has -filled books and booklets beyond count. By the miracle of _Penicillium -Roqueforti_ a new cheese was made. It is placed historically back -around the eighth century when Charlemagne was found picking out the -green spots of Persille with the point of his knife, thinking them -decay. But the monks of Saint-Gall, who were his hosts, recorded in -their annals that when they regaled him with Roquefort (because it was -Friday and they had no fish) they also made bold to tell him he was -wasting the best part of the cheese. So he tasted again, found the -advice excellent and liked it so well he ordered two _caisses_ of it -sent every year to his palace at Aix-la-Chapelle. He also suggested -that it be cut in half first, to make sure it was well veined with -blue, and then bound up with a wooden fastening. - -Perhaps he hoped the wood would protect the cheeses from mice and -rats, for the good monks of Saint-Gall couldn't be expected to send an -escort of cats from their chalky caves to guard them--even for -Charlemagne. There is no telling how many cats were mustered out in -the caves, in those early days, but a recent census put the number at -five hundred. We can readily imagine the head handler in the caves -leading a night inspection with a candle, followed by his chief taster -and a regiment of cats. While the Dutch and other makers of cheese -also employ cats to patrol their storage caves, Roquefort holds the -record for number. An interesting point in this connection is that as -rats and mice pick only the prime cheeses, a gnawed one is not thrown -away but greatly prized. - - -Sapsago, Schabziger or Swiss Green Cheese - -The name Sapsago is a corruption of Schabziger, German for whey -cheese. It's a hay cheese, flavored heavily with melilot, a kind of -clover that's also grown for hay. It comes from Switzerland in a hard, -truncated cone wrapped in a piece of paper that says: - - To be used grated only - Genuine Swiss Green Cheese - Made of skimmed milk and herbs - - To the housewives! Do you want a change in your meals? Try the - contents of this wrapper! Delicious as spreading mixed with butter, - excellent for flavoring eggs, macaroni, spaghetti, potatoes, soup, - etc. Can be used in place of any other cheese. _Do not take too - much, you might spoil the flavor_. - -We put this wrapper among our papers, sealed it tight in an envelope, -and to this day, six months later, the scent of Sapsago clings 'round -it still. - - -Stilton - - _Honor for Cheeses_ - - Literary and munching circles in London are putting quite a lot - of thought into a proposed memorial to Stilton cheese. There is a - Stilton Memorial Committee, with Sir John Squire at the head, and - already the boys are fighting. - - One side, led by Sir John, is all for a monument. - - This, presumably, would not be a replica of Stilton itself, - although Mr. Epstein could probably hack out a pretty effective - cheese-shaped figure and call it "Dolorosa." - - The monument-boosters plan a figure of Mrs. Paulet, who first - introduced Stilton to England. (Possibly a group showing Mrs. - Paulet holding a young Stilton by the hand and introducing it, - while the Stilton curtsies.) - - T.S. Eliot does not think that anyone would look at a monument, - but wants to establish a Foundation for the Preservation of - Ancient Cheeses. The practicability of this plan would depend - largely on the site selected for the treasure house and the cost - of obtaining a curator who could, or would, give his whole time - to the work. - - Mr. J.A. Symonds, who is secretary of the committee, agrees with - Mr. Eliot that a simple statue is not the best form. - - "I should like," he says, "something irrelevant--gargoyles, - perhaps." - - I think that Mr. Symonds has hit on something there. - - I would suggest, if we Americans can pitch into this great - movement, some gargoyles designed by Mr. Rube Goldberg. - - If the memorial could be devised so as to take on an - international scope, an exchange fellowship might be established - between England and America, although the exchange, in the case - of Stilton, would have to be all on England's side. - - We might be allowed to furnish the money, however, while England - furnishes the cheese. - - There is a very good precedent for such a bargain between the two - countries. - - Robert Benchley, in _After 1903--What?_ - -When all seems lost in England there is still Stilton, an endless -after-dinner conversation piece to which England points with pride. -For a sound appreciation of this cheese see Clifton Fadiman's -introduction to this book. - - -Taleggio and Bel Paese - -When the great Italian cheese-maker, Galbini, first exported Bel Paese -some years ago, it was an eloquent ambassador to America. But as the -years went on and imitations were made in many lands, Galbini deemed -it wise to set up his own factory in _our_ beautiful country. However, -the domestic Bel Paese and a minute one-pounder called Bel Paesino -just didn't have that old Alpine zest. They were no better than the -German copy called Schoenland, after the original, or the French Fleur -des Alpes. - -Mel Fino was a blend of Bel Paese and Gorgonzola. It perked up the -market for a full, fruity cheese with snap. Then Galbini hit the -jackpot with his Taleggio that fills the need for the sharpest, most -sophisticated pungence of them all. - - -Trappist, Port-Salut, or Port du Salut, and Oka - -In spite of its name Trappist is no rat-trap commoner. Always of the -elect, and better known as Port-Salut or Port du Salut from the -original home of the Trappist monks in their chief French abbey, it is -also set apart from the ordinary Canadians under the name of Oka, from -the Trappist monastery there. It is made by Trappist monks all over -the world, according to the original secret formula, and by Trappist -Cistercian monks at the Abbey of Gethsemani Trappist in Kentucky. - -This is a soft cheese, creamy and of superb flavor. You can't go wrong -if you look for the monastery name stamped on, such as Harze in -Belgium, Mont-des-Cats in Flanders, Sainte Anne d'Auray in Brittany, -and so forth. - -Last but not least, a commercial Port-Salut entirely without benefit -of clergy or monastery is made in Milwaukee under the Lion Brand. It -is one of the finest American cheeses in which we have ever sunk a -fang. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Four_ - -Native Americans - - -American Cheddars - -The first American Cheddar was made soon after 1620 around Plymouth by -Pilgrim fathers who brought along not only cheese from the homeland -but a live cow to continue the supply. Proof of our ability to -manufacture Cheddar of our own lies in the fact that by 1790 we were -exporting it back to England. - -It was called Cheddar after the English original named for the village -of Cheddar near Bristol. More than a century ago it made a new name -for itself, Herkimer County cheese, from the section of New York State -where it was first made best. Herkimer still equals its several -distinguished competitors, Coon, Colorado Blackie, California Jack, -Pineapple, Sage, Vermont Colby and Wisconsin Longhorn. - -The English called our imitation Yankee, or American, Cheddar, while -here at home it was popularly known as yellow or store cheese from its -prominent position in every country store; also apple-pie cheese -because of its affinity for the all-American dessert. - -The first Cheddar factory was founded by Jesse Williams in Rome, New -York, just over a century ago and, with Herkimer County Cheddar -already widely known, this established "New York" as the preferred -"store-boughten" cheese. - -An account of New York's cheese business in the pioneer Wooden Nutmeg -Era is found in Ernest Elmo Calkins' interesting book, _They Broke the -Prairies_. A Yankee named Silvanus Ferris, "the most successful -dairyman of Herkimer County," in the first decades of the 1800's -teamed up with Robert Nesbit, "the old Quaker Cheese Buyer." They -bought from farmers in the region and sold in New York City. And -"according to the business ethics of the times," Nesbit went ahead to -cheapen the cheese offered by deprecating its quality, hinting at a -bad market and departing without buying. Later when Ferris arrived in -a more optimistic mood, offering a slightly better price, the seller, -unaware they were partners, and ignorant of the market price, snapped -up the offer. - -Similar sharp-trade tactics put too much green cheese on the market, -so those honestly aged from a minimum of eight months up to two years -fetched higher prices. They were called "old," such as Old Herkimer, -Old Wisconsin Longhorn, and Old California Jack. - -Although the established Cheddar ages are three, fresh, medium-cured, -and cured or aged, commercially they are divided into two and -described as mild and sharp. The most popular are named for their -states: Colorado, Illinois, Kentucky, New York, Ohio, Vermont and -Wisconsin. Two New York Staters are called and named separately, Coon -and Herkimer County. Tillamook goes by its own name with no mention of -Oregon. Pineapple, Monterey Jack and Sage are seldom listed as -Cheddars at all, although they are basically that. - - -Brick - -Brick is the one and only cheese for which the whole world gives -America credit. Runners-up are Liederkranz, which rivals say is too -close to Limburger, and Pineapple, which is only a Cheddar under its -crisscrossed, painted and flavored rind. Yet Brick is no more -distinguished than either of the hundred percent Americans, and in our -opinion is less worth bragging about. - -It is a medium-firm, mild-to-strong slicing cheese for sandwiches and -melting in hot dishes. Its texture is elastic but not rubbery, its -taste sweetish, and it is full of little round holes or eyes. All this -has inspired enthusiasts to liken it to Emmentaler. The most -appropriate name for it has long been "married man's Limburger." To -make up for the mildness caraway seed is sometimes added. - -About Civil War time, John Jossi, a dairyman of Dodge County, -Wisconsin, came up with this novelty, a rennet cheese made of whole -cow's milk. The curd is cut like Cheddar, heated, stirred and cooked -firm to put in a brick-shaped box without a bottom and with slits in -the sides to drain. When this is set on the draining table a couple of -bricks are also laid on the cooked curd for pressure. It is this -double use of bricks, for shaping and for pressing, that has led to -the confusion about which came first in originating the name. - -The formed "bricks" of cheese are rubbed with salt for three days and -they ripen slowly, taking up to two months. - -We eat several million pounds a year and 95 percent of that comes from -Wisconsin, with a trickle from New York. - -Colorado Blackie Cheese - -A subtly different American Cheddar is putting Colorado on our cheese -map. It is called Blackie from the black-waxed rind and it resembles -Vermont State cheese, although it is flatter. This is a proud new -American product, proving that although Papa Cheddar was born in -England his American kinfolk have developed independent and valuable -characters all on their own. - - -Coon Cheese - -Coon cheese is full of flavor from being aged on shelves at a higher -temperature than cold storage. Its rind is darker from the growth of -mold and this shade is sometimes painted on more ordinary Cheddars to -make them look like Coon, which always brings a 10 percent premium -above the general run. - -Made at Lowville, New York, it has received high praise from a host of -admirers, among them the French cook, Clementine, in Phineas Beck's -_Kitchen_, who raised it to the par of French immortals by calling it -Fromage de Coon. Clementine used it "with scintillating success in -countless French recipes which ended with the words _gratiner au four -et servir tres chaud_. She made _baguettes_ of it by soaking sticks -three-eights-inch square and one and a half inches long in lukewarm -milk, rolling them in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs and browning -them instantaneously in boiling oil." - - -Herkimer County Cheese - -The standard method for making American Cheddar was established in -Herkimer County, New York, in 1841 and has been rigidly maintained -down to this day. Made with rennet and a bacterial "starter," the curd -is cut and pressed to squeeze out all of the whey and then aged in -cylindrical forms for a year or more. - -Herkimer leads the whole breed by being flaky, brittle, sharp and -nutty, with a crumb that will crumble, and a soft, mouth-watering pale -orange color when it is properly aged. - - -Isigny - -Isigny is a native American cheese that came a cropper. It seems to be -extinct now, and perhaps that is all to the good, for it never meant -to be anything more than another Camembert, of which we have plenty of -imitation. - -Not long after the Civil War the attempt was made to perfect Isigny. -The curd was carefully prepared according to an original formula, -washed and rubbed and set aside to come of age. But when it did, alas, -it was more like Limburger than Camembert, and since good domestic -Limburger was then a dime a pound, obviously it wouldn't pay off. Yet -in shape the newborn resembled Camembert, although it was much larger. -So they cut it down and named it after the delicate French Creme -d'lsigny. - - -Jack, California Jack and Monterey Jack - -Jack was first known as Monterey cheese from the California county -where it originated. Then it was called Jack for short, and only now -takes its full name after sixty years of popularity on the West Coast. -Because it is little known in the East and has to be shipped so far, -it commands the top Cheddar price. - -Monterey Jack is a stirred curd Cheddar without any annatto coloring. -It is sweeter than most and milder when young, but it gets sharper -with age and more expensive because of storage costs. - - -Liederkranz - -No native American cheese has been so widely ballyhooed, and so -deservedly, as Liederkranz, which translates "Wreath of Song." - -Back in the gay, inventive nineties, Emil Frey, a young delicatessen -keeper in New York, tried to please some bereft customers by making an -imitation of Bismarck Schlosskaese. This was imperative because the -imported German cheese didn't stand up during the long sea trip and -Emil's customers, mostly members of the famous Liederkranz singing -society, didn't feel like singing without it. But Emil's attempts at -imitation only added indigestion to their dejection, until one -day--_fabelhaft!_ One of those cheese dream castles in Spain came -true. He turned out a tawny, altogether golden, tangy and mellow -little marvel that actually was an improvement on Bismarck's old -Schlosskaese. Better than Brick, it was a deodorized Limburger, both a -man's cheese and one that cheese-conscious women adored. - -Emil named it "Wreath of Song" for the Liederkranz customers. It soon -became as internationally known as tabasco from Texas or Parisian -Camembert which it slightly resembles. Borden's bought out Frey in -1929 and they enjoy telling the story of a G.I. who, to celebrate V-E -Day in Paris, sent to his family in Indiana, only a few miles from the -factory at Van Wert, Ohio, a whole case of what he had learned was -"the finest cheese France could make." And when the family opened it, -there was Liederkranz. - -Another deserved distinction is that of being sandwiched in between -two foreign immortals in the following recipe: - - - Schnitzelbank Pot - -1 ripe Camembert cheese -1 Liederkranz -1/8 pound imported Roquefort -1/4 pound butter -1 tablespoon flour -1 cup cream -1/2 cup finely chopped olives -1/4 cup canned pimiento -A sprinkling of cayenne - - Depending on whether or not you like the edible rind of Camembert - and Liederkranz, you can leave it on, scrape any thick part off, - or remove it all. Mash the soft creams together with the - Roquefort, butter and flour, using a silver fork. Put the mix - into an enameled pan, for anything with a metal surface will - turn the cheese black in cooking. - - Stir in the cream and keep stirring until you have a smooth, - creamy sauce. Strain through sieve or cheesecloth, and mix in the - olives and pimiento thoroughly. Sprinkle well with cayenne and - put into a pot to mellow for a few days, or much longer. - -The name _Schnitzelbank_ comes from "school bench," a game. This -snappy-sweet pot is specially suited to a beer party and stein songs. -It is also the affinity-spread with rye and pumpernickel, and may be -served in small sandwiches or on crackers, celery and such, to make -appetizing tidbits for cocktails, tea, or cider. - -Like the trinity of cheeses that make it, the mixture is eaten best at -room temperature, when its flavor is fullest. If kept in the -refrigerator, it should be taken out a couple of hours before serving. -Since it is a natural cheese mixture, which has gone through no -process or doping with preservative, it will not keep more than two -weeks. This mellow-sharp mix is the sort of ideal the factory -processors shoot at with their olive-pimiento abominations. Once -you've potted your own, you'll find it gives the same thrill as -garnishing your own Liptauer. - - -Minnesota Blue - -The discovery of sandstone caves in the bluffs along the Mississippi, -in and near the Twin Cities of Minnesota, has established a -distinctive type of Blue cheese named for the state. Although the -Roquefort process of France is followed and the cheese is inoculated -in the same way by mold from bread, it can never equal the genuine -imported, marked with its red-sheep brand, because the milk used in -Minnesota Blue is cow's milk, and the caves are sandstone instead of -limestone. Yet this is an excellent, Blue cheese in its own right. - - -Pineapple - -Pineapple cheese is named after its shape rather than its flavor, -although there are rumors that some pineapple flavor is noticeable -near the oiled rind. This flavor does not penetrate through to the -Cheddar center. Many makers of processed cheese have tampered with the -original, so today you can't be sure of anything except getting a -smaller size every year or two, at a higher price. Originally six -pounds, the Pineapple has shrunk to nearly six ounces. The proper -bright-orange, oiled and shellacked surface is more apt to be a sickly -lemon. - -Always an ornamental cheese, it once stood in state on the side-board -under a silver bell also made to represent a pineapple. You cut a top -slice off the cheese, just as you would off the fruit, and there was a -rose-colored, fine-tasting, mellow-hard cheese to spoon out with a -special silver cheese spoon or scoop. Between meals the silver top was -put on the silver holder and the oiled and shellacked rind kept the -cheese moist. Even when the Pineapple was eaten down to the rind the -shell served as a dunking bowl to fill with some salubrious cold -Fondue or salad. - -Made in the same manner as Cheddar with the curd cooked harder, -Pineapple's distinction lies in being hung in a net that makes -diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface, simulating the sections of -the fruit. It is a pioneer American product with almost a century and -a half of service since Lewis M. Norton conceived it in 1808 in -Litchfield County, Connecticut. There in 1845 he built a factory and -made a deserved fortune out of his decorative ingenuity with what -before had been plain, unromantic yellow or store cheese. - -Perhaps his inspiration came from cone-shaped Cheshire in old England, -also called Pineapple cheese, combined with the hanging up of -Provolones in Italy that leaves the looser pattern of the four -sustaining strings. - - - Sage, Vermont Sage and Vermont State - -The story of Sage cheese, or green cheese as it was called originally, -shows the several phases most cheeses have gone through, from their -simple, honest beginnings to commercialization, and sometimes back to -the real thing. - -The English _Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_ has an early Sage -recipe: - - This is a species of cream cheese made by adding sage leaves and - greening to the milk. A very good receipt for it is given thus: - Bruise the tops of fresh young red sage leaves with an equal - quantity of spinach leaves and squeeze out the juice. Add this to - the extract of rennet and stir into the milk as much as your - taste may deem sufficient. Break the curd when it comes, salt it, - fill the vat high with it, press for a few hours, and then turn - the cheese every day. - -_Fancy Cheese in America, lay_ Charles A. Publow, records the -commercialization of the cheese mentioned above, a century or two -later, in 1910: - - Sage cheese is another modified form of the Cheddar variety. Its - distinguishing features are a mottled green color and a sage - flavor. The usual method of manufacture is as follows: One-third - of the total amount of milk is placed in a vat by itself and - colored green by the addition of eight to twelve ounces of - commercial sage color to each 1,000 pounds of milk. If green corn - leaves (unavailable in England) or other substances are used for - coloring, the amounts will vary accordingly. The milk is then - made up by the regular Cheddar method, as is also the remaining - two-thirds, in a separate vat. At the time of removing the whey - the green and white curds are mixed. Some prefer, however, to mix - the curds at the time of milling, as a more distinct color is - secured. After milling, the sage extract flavoring is sprayed - over the curd with an atomizer. The curd is then salted and - pressed into the regular Cheddar shapes and sizes. - - A very satisfactory Sage cheese is made at the New York State - College of Agriculture by simply dropping green coloring, made - from the leaves of corn and spinach, upon the curd, after - milling. An even green mottling is thus easily secured without - additional labor. Sage flavoring extract is sprayed over the curd - by an atomizer. One-half ounce of flavoring is usually sufficient - for a hundred pounds of curd and can be secured from dairy supply - houses. - -A modern cheese authority reported on the current (1953) method: - - Instead of sage leaves, or tea prepared from them, at present the - cheese is flavored with oil of Dalmatian wild sage because it has - the sharpest flavor. This piny oil, thujone, is diluted with - water, 250 parts to one, and either added to the milk or sprayed - over the curds, one-eighth ounce for 500 quarts of milk. - -In scouting around for a possible maker of the real thing today, we -wrote to Vrest Orton of Vermont, and got this reply: - - Sage cheese is one of the really indigenous and best native - Vermont products. So far as I know, there is only one factory - making it and that is my friend, George Crowley's. He makes a - limited amount for my Vermont Country Store. It is the fine - old-time full cream cheese, flavored with real sage. - - On this hangs a tale. Some years ago I couldn't get enough sage - cheese (we never can) so I asked a Wisconsin cheesemaker if he - would make some. Said he would but couldn't at that time--because - the alfalfa wasn't ripe. I said, "What in hell has alfalfa got to - do with sage cheese?" He said, "Well, we flavor the sage cheese - with a synthetic sage flavor and then throw in some pieces of - chopped-up alfalfa to make it look green." - - So I said to hell with that and the next time I saw George - Crowley I told him the story and George said, "We don't use - synthetic flavor, alfalfa or anything like that." - - "Then what do you use, George?" I inquired. - - "We use real sage." - - "Why?" - - "Well, because it's cheaper than that synthetic stuff." - -The genuine Vermont Sage arrived. Here are our notes on it: - - Oh, wilderness were Paradise enow! My taste buds come to full - flower with the Sage. There's a slight burned savor recalling - smoked cheese, although not related in any way. Mildly resinous - like that Near East one packed in pine, suggesting the well-saged - dressing of a turkey. A round mouthful of luscious mellowness, - with a bouquet--a snapping reminder to the nose. And there's just - a soupcon of new-mown hay above the green freckles of herb to - delight the eye and set the fancy free. So this is the _veritable - vert_, green cheese--the moon is made of it! _Vert veritable._ A - general favorite with everybody who ever tasted it, for - generations of lusty crumblers. - - -Old-Fashioned Vermont State Store Cheese - -We received from savant Vrest Orton another letter, together with some -Vermont store cheese and some crackers. - - This cheese is our regular old-fashioned store cheese--it's been - in old country stores for generations and we have been pioneers - in spreading the word about it. It is, of course, a natural aged - cheese, no processing, no fussing, no fooling with it. It's made - the same way it was back in 1870, by the old-time Colby method - which makes a cheese which is not so dry as Cheddar and also has - holes in it, something like Swiss. Also, it ages faster. - - Did you know that during the last part of the nineteenth century - and part of the twentieth, Vermont was the leading cheesemaking - state in the Union? When I was a lad, every town in Vermont had - one or more cheese factories. Now there are only two left--not - counting any that make process. Process isn't cheese! - - The crackers are the old-time store cracker--every Vermonter - used to buy a big barrel once a year to set in the buttery and - eat. A classic dish is crackers, broken up in a bowl of cold - milk, with a hunk of Vermont cheese like this on the side. Grand - snack, grand midnight supper, grand anything. These crackers are - not sweet, not salt, and as such make a good base for - anything--swell with clam chowder, also with toasted cheese.... - - -Tillamook - -It takes two pocket-sized, but thick, yellow volumes to record the -story of Oregon's great Tillamook. _The Cheddar Box_, by Dean Collins, -comes neatly boxed and bound in golden cloth stamped with a purple -title, like the rind of a real Tillamook. Volume I is entitled _Cheese -Cheddar_, and Volume II is a two-pound Cheddar cheese labeled -Tillamook and molded to fit inside its book jacket. We borrowed Volume -I from a noted _litterateur_, and never could get him to come across -with Volume II. We guessed its fate, however, from a note on the -flyleaf of the only tome available: "This is an excellent cheese, full -cream and medium sharp, and a unique set of books in which Volume II -suggests Bacon's: 'Some books are to be tasted, others to be -swallowed, and some few to be chewed and digested.'" - - -Wisconsin Longhorn - -Since we began this chapter with all-American Cheddars, it is only -fitting to end with Wisconsin Longhorn, a sort of national standard, -even though it's not nearly so fancy or high-priced as some of the -regional natives that can't approach its enormous output. It's one of -those all-purpose round cheeses that even taste round in your mouth. -We are specially partial to it. - -Most Cheddars are named after their states. Yet, putting all of these -thirty-seven states together, they produce only about half as much as -Wisconsin alone. - -Besides Longhorn, in Wisconsin there are a dozen regional competitors -ranging from White Twin Cheddar, to which no annatto coloring has been -added, through Green Bay cheese to Wisconsin Redskin and Martha -Washington Aged, proudly set forth by P.H. Kasper of Bear Creek, who -is said to have "won more prizes in forty years than any ten -cheesemakers put together." - -To help guarantee a market for all this excellent apple-pie cheese, -the Wisconsin State Legislature made a law about it, recognizing the -truth of Eugene Field's jingle: - - Apple pie without cheese - Is like a kiss without a squeeze. - -Small matter in the Badger State when the affinity is made legal and -the couple lawfully wedded in Statute No. 160,065. It's still in -force: - - _Butter and cheese to be served._ Every person, firm or - corporation duly licensed to operate a hotel or restaurant shall - serve with each meal for which a charge of twenty-five cents or - more is made, at least two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin butter - and two-thirds of an ounce of Wisconsin cheese. - -Besides Longhorn, Wisconsin leads in Limburger. It produces so much -Swiss that the state is sometimes called Swissconsin. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Five_ - -Sixty-five Sizzling Rabbits - - - That nice little smoky room at the "Salutation," which is even - now continually presenting itself to my recollection, with all - its associated train of pipes, egg-hot, welsh-rabbits, - metaphysics and poetry. - - Charles Lamb, IN A LETTER TO COLERIDGE - - -Unlike the beginning of the classical Jugged Hare recipe: "First catch -your hare!" we modern Rabbit-hunters start off with "First catch your -Cheddar!" And some of us go so far as to smuggle in formerly forbidden -_fromages_ such as Gruyere, Neufchatel, Parmesan, and mixtures -thereof. We run the gamut of personal preferences in selecting the -Rabbit cheese itself, from old-time American, yellow or store cheese, -to Coon and Canadian-smoked, though all of it is still Cheddar, no -matter how you slice it. - -Then, too, guests are made to run the gauntlet of all-American -trimmings from pin-money pickles to peanut butter, succotash and maybe -marshmallows; we add mustard, chill, curry, tabasco and sundry bottled -red devils from the grocery store, to add pep and piquance to the -traditional cayenne and black pepper. This results in Rabbits that are -out of focus, out of order and out of this world. - -Among modern sins of omission, the Worcestershire sauce is left out by -braggarts who aver that they can take it or leave it. And, in these -degenerate days, when it comes to substitutions for the original beer -or stale pale ale, we find the gratings of great Cheddars wet down -with mere California sherry or even ginger ale--yet so far, thank -goodness, no Cokes. And there's tomato juice out of a can into the Rum -Turn Tiddy, and sometimes celery soup in place of milk or cream. - -In view of all this, we can only look to the standard cookbooks for -salvation. These are mostly compiled by women, our thoughtful mothers, -wives and sweethearts who have saved the twin Basic Rabbits for us. If -it weren't for these Fanny Farmers, the making of a real aboriginal -Welsh Rabbit would be a lost art--lost in sporting male attempts to -improve upon the original. - -The girls are still polite about the whole thing and protectively -pervert the original spelling of "Rabbit" to "Rarebit" in their -culinary guides. We have heard that once a club of ladies in high -society tried to high-pressure the publishers of Mr. Webster's -dictionary to change the old spelling in their favor. Yet there is a -lot to be said for this more genteel and appetizing rendering of the -word, for the Welsh masterpiece is, after all, a very rare bit of -cheesemongery, male or female. - -Yet in dealing with "Rarebits" the distaff side seldom sets down more -than the basic Adam and Eve in a whole Paradise of Rabbits: No. 1, -the wild male type made with beer, and No. 2, the mild female made -with milk. Yet now that the chafing dish has come back to stay, -there's a flurry in the Rabbit warren and the new cooking -encyclopedias give up to a dozen variants. Actually there are easily -half a gross of valid ones in current esteem. - -The two basic recipes are differentiated by the liquid ingredient, but -both the beer and the milk are used only one way--warm, or anyway at -room temperature. And again for the two, there is but one traditional -cheese--Cheddar, ripe, old or merely aged from six months onward. This -is also called American, store, sharp, Rabbit, yellow, beer, Wisconsin -Longhorn, mouse, and even rat. - -The seasoned, sapid Cheddar-type, so indispensable, includes dozens of -varieties under different names, regional or commercial. These are -easily identified as sisters-under-the-rinds by all five senses: - - sight: Golden yellow and mellow to the eye. It's one of those - round cheeses that also tastes round in the mouth. - - hearing: By thumping, a cheese-fancier, like a melon-picker, - can tell if a Cheddar is rich, ripe and ready for the Rabbit. - When you hear your dealer say, "It's six months old or more," - enough said. - - smell: A scent as fresh as that of the daisies and herbs the - mother milk cow munched "will hang round it still." Also a slight - beery savor. - - touch: Crumbly--a caress to the fingers. - - taste: The quintessence of this fivefold test. Just cuddle a - crumb with your tongue and if it tickles the taste buds it's - prime. When it melts in your mouth, that's proof it will melt in - the pan. - -Beyond all this (and in spite of the school that plumps for the No. 2 -temperance alternative) we must point out that beer has a special -affinity for Cheddar. The French have clearly established this in -their names for Welsh Rabbit, _Fromage Fondue a la Biere_ and _Fondue -a l'Anglaise_. - -To prepare such a cheese for the pan, each Rabbit hound may have a -preference all his own, for here the question comes up of how it melts -best. Do you shave, slice, dice, shred, mince, chop, cut, scrape or -crumble it in the fingers? This will vary according to one's -temperament and the condition of the cheese. Generally, for best -results it is coarsely grated. When it comes to making all this into a -rare bit of Rabbit there is: - - -The One and Only Method - -Use a double boiler, or preferably a chafing dish, avoiding aluminum -and other soft metals. Heat the upper pan by simmering water in the -lower one, but don't let the water boil up or touch the top pan. - -Most, but not all, Rabbits are begun by heating a bit of butter or -margarine in the pan in which one cup of roughly grated cheese, -usually sharp Cheddar, is melted and mixed with one-half cup of -liquid, added gradually. (The butter isn't necessary for a cheese that -should melt by itself.) - -The two principal ingredients are melted smoothly together and kept -from curdling by stirring steadily in one direction only, over an even -heat. The spoon used should be of hard wood, sterling silver or -porcelain. Never use tin, aluminum or soft metal--the taste may come -off to taint the job. - -Be sure the liquid is at room temperature, or warmer, and add it -gradually, without interrupting the stirring. Do not let it come to -the bubbling point, and never let it boil. - -Add seasonings only when the cheese is melted, which will take two or -three minutes. Then continue to stir in the same direction without an -instant's letup, for maybe ten minutes or more, until the Rabbit is -smooth. The consistency and velvety smoothness depend a good deal on -whether or not an egg, or a beaten yolk, is added. - -The hotter the Rabbit is served, the better. You can sizzle the top -with a salamander or other branding iron, but in any case set it forth -as nearly sizzling as possible, on toast hellishly hot, whether it's -browned or buttered on one side or both. - -Give a thought to the sad case of the "little dog whose name was -Rover, and when he was dead he was dead all over." Something very -similar happens with a Rabbit that's allowed to cool down--when it's -cold it's cold all over, and you can't resuscitate it by heating. - - -BASIC WELSH RABBIT - - No. 1 (with beer) - -2 tablespoons butter -3 cups grated old Cheddar -1/2 teaspoon English dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with -1/2 cup light beer or ale -4 slices hot buttered toast - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese together, stirring - steadily with a wooden (or other tasteless) spoon in one - direction only. Add seasonings and do not interrupt your rhythmic - stirring, as you pour in a bit at a time of the beer-and-egg - mixture until it's all used up. - - It may take many minutes of constant stirring to achieve the - essential creamy thickness and then some more to slick it out as - smooth as velvet. - - Keep it piping hot but don't let it bubble, for a boiled Rabbit - is a spoiled Rabbit. Only unremitting stirring (and the best of - cheese) will keep it from curdling, getting stringy or rubbery. - Pour the Rabbit generously over crisp, freshly buttered toast - and serve instantly on hot plates. - -Usually crusts are cut off the bread before toasting, and some -aesthetes toast one side only, spreading the toasted side with cold -butter for taste contrast. Lay the toast on the hot plate, buttered -side down, and pour the Rabbit over the porous untoasted side so it -can soak in. (This is recommended in Lady Llanover's recipe, which -appears on page 52 of this book.) - -Although the original bread for Rabbit toast was white, there is now -no limit in choice among whole wheat, graham, rolls, muffins, buns, -croutons and crackers, to infinity. - - - No. 2 (with milk) - -For a rich milk Rabbit use 1/2 cup thin cream, evaporated milk, -whole milk or buttermilk, instead of beer as in No. 1. Then, to -keep everything bland, cut down the mustard by half or leave -it out, and use paprika in place of cayenne. As in No. 1, the -use of Worcestershire sauce is optional, although our feeling is -that any spirited Rabbit would resent its being left out. - -Either of these basic recipes can be made without eggs, and more -cheaply, although the beaten egg is a guarantee against stringiness. -When the egg is missing, we are sad to record that a teaspoon or so of -cornstarch generally takes its place. - -Rabbiteers are of two minds about fast and slow heating and stirring, -so you'll have to adjust that to your own experience and rhythm. As a -rule, the heat is reduced when the cheese is almost melted, and speed -of stirring slows when the eggs and last ingredients go in. - -Many moderns who have found that monosodium glutamate steps up the -flavor of natural cheese, put it in at the start, using one-half -teaspoon for each cup of grated Cheddar. When it comes to pepper you -are fancy-free. As both black and white pepper are now held in almost -equal esteem, you might equip your hutch with twin hand-mills to do -the grinding fresh, for this is always worth the trouble. Tabasco -sauce is little used and needs a cautious hand, but some addicts can't -leave it out any more than they can swear off the Worcestershire. - -The school that plumps for malty Rabbits and the other that goes for -milky ones are equally emphatic in their choice. So let us consider -the compromise of our old friend Frederick Philip Stieff, the -Baltimore _homme de bouche_, as he set it forth for us years ago in -_10,000 Snacks_: "The idea of cooking a Rabbit with beer is an -exploded and dangerous theory. Tap your keg or open your case of ale -or beer and serve _with_, not in your Rabbit." - - - The Stieff Recipe BASIC MILK RABBIT (_completely -surrounded by a lake of malt beverages_) - -2 cups grated sharp cheese -3 heaping tablespoons butter -1-1/2 cups milk -4 eggs -1 heaping tablespoon mustard -2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce -Pepper, salt and paprika to taste--then add more of each. - - Grease well with butter the interior of your double boiler so - that no hard particles of cheese will form in the mixture later - and contribute undesirable lumps. - - Put cheese, well-grated, into the double boiler and add butter - and milk. From this point vigorous stirring should be indulged in - until Rabbit is ready for serving. - - Prepare a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, mustard, pepper, salt - and paprika. These should be beaten until light and then slowly - poured into the double boiler. Nothing now remains to be done - except to stir and cook down to proper consistency over a fairly - slow flame. The finale has not arrived until you can drip the - rabbit from the spoon and spell the word _finis_ on the surface. - Pour over two pieces of toast per plate and send anyone home who - does not attack it at once. - - This is sufficient for six gourmets or four gourmands. - -_Nota bene_: A Welsh Rabbit, to be a success, should never be of the -consistency whereby it may be used to tie up bundles, nor yet should -it bounce if inadvertently dropped on the kitchen floor. - - - Lady Llanover's Toasted Welsh Rabbit - - Cut a slice of the real Welsh cheese made of sheep's and cow's - milk; toast it at the fire on both sides, but not so much as to - drop (melt). Toast on one side a piece of bread less than 1/4 - inch thick, to be quite crisp, and spread it very thinly with - fresh, cold butter on the toasted side. (It must not be - saturated.) Lay the toasted cheese upon the untoasted bread side - and serve immediately on a very hot plate. The butter on the - toast can, of course, be omitted. (It is more frequently eaten - without butter.) - -From this original toasting of the cheese many Englishmen still call -Welsh Rabbit "Toasted Cheese," but Lady Llanover goes on to point out -that the Toasted Rabbit of her Wales and the Melted or Stewed Buck -Rabbit of England (which has become our American standard) are as -different in the making as the regional cheeses used in them, and she -says that while doctors prescribed the toasted Welsh as salubrious for -invalids, the stewed cheese of Olde England was "only adapted to -strong digestions." - -English literature rings with praise for the toasted cheese of Wales -and England. There is Christopher North's eloquent "threads of -unbeaten gold, shining like gossamer filaments (that may be pulled -from its tough and tenacious substance)." - -Yet not all of the references are complimentary. - -Thus Shakespeare in _King Lear_: - - Look, look a mouse! - Peace, peace;--this piece of toasted cheese will do it. - -And Sydney Smith's: - - Old friendships are destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted - meat has led to suicide. - -But Rhys Davis in _My Wales_ makes up for such rudenesses: - - _The Welsh Enter Heaven_ - - The Lord had been complaining to St. Peter of the dearth of good - singers in Heaven. "Yet," He said testily, "I hear excellent - singing outside the walls. Why are not those singers here with - me?" - - St. Peter said, "They are the Welsh. They refuse to come in; they - say they are happy enough outside, playing with a ball and boxing - and singing such songs as '_Suspan Fach_'" - - The Lord said, "I wish them to come in here to sing Bach and - Mendelssohn. See that they are in before sundown." - - St. Peter went to the Welsh and gave them the commands of the - Lord. But still they shook their heads. Harassed, St. Peter went - to consult with St. David, who, with a smile, was reading the - works of Caradoc Evans. - - St. David said, "Try toasted cheese. Build a fire just inside the - gates and get a few angels to toast cheese in front of it" This - St. Peter did. The heavenly aroma of the sizzling, browning - cheese was wafted over the walls and, with loud shouts, a great - concourse of the Welsh came sprinting in. When sufficient were - inside to make up a male voice choir of a hundred, St Peter - slammed the gates. However, it is said that these are the only - Welsh in Heaven. - -And, lest we forget, the wonderful drink that made Alice grow and grow -to the ceiling of Wonderland contained not only strawberry jam but -toasted cheese. - -Then there's the frightening nursery rhyme: - - The Irishman loved usquebaugh, - The Scot loved ale called Bluecap. - The Welshman, he loved toasted cheese, - And made his mouth like a mousetrap. - - The Irishman was drowned in usquebaugh, - The Scot was drowned in ale, - The Welshman he near swallowed a mouse - But he pulled it out by the tail. - -And, perhaps worst of all, Shakespeare, no cheese-lover, this tune in -_Merry Wives of Windsor_: - - 'Tis time I were choked by a bit of toasted cheese. - -An elaboration of the simple Welsh original went English with Dr. -William Maginn, the London journalist whose facile pen enlivened the -_Blackwoods Magazine_ era with _Ten Tales_: - - [Illustration] Dr. Maginn's Rabbit - - Much is to be said in favor of toasted cheese for supper. It is - the cant to say that Welsh rabbit is heavy eating. I like it best - in the genuine Welsh way, however--that is, the toasted bread - buttered on both sides profusely, then a layer of cold roast beef - with mustard and horseradish, and then, on the top of all, the - superstratum, of Cheshire _thoroughly_ saturated, while, in the - process of toasting, with genuine porter, black pepper, and - shallot vinegar. I peril myself upon the assertion that this is - not a heavy supper for a man who has been busy all day till - dinner in reading, writing, walking or riding--who has occupied - himself between dinner and supper in the discussion of a bottle - or two of sound wine, or any equivalent--and who proposes to - swallow at least three tumblers of something hot ere he resigns - himself to the embrace of Somnus. With these provisos, I - recommend toasted cheese for supper. - -The popularity of this has come down to us in the succinct -summing-up, "Toasted cheese hath no master." - -The Welsh original became simple after Dr. Maginn's supper sandwich -was served, a century and a half ago; for it was served as a savory to -sum up and help digest a dinner, in this form: - - - After-Dinner Rabbit - - Remove all crusts from bread slices, toast on both sides and soak - to saturation in hot beer. Melt thin slices of sharp old cheese - in butter in an iron skillet, with an added spot of beer and dry - English mustard. Stir steadily with a wooden spoon and, when - velvety, serve a-sizzle on piping hot beer-soaked toast. - -While toasted cheese undoubtedly was the Number One dairy dish of -Anglo-Saxons, stewed cheese came along to rival it in Elizabethan -London. This sophisticated, big-city dish, also called a Buck Rabbit, -was the making of Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese on Fleet Street, where Dr. -Johnson later presided. And it must have been the pick of the town -back in the days when barrooms still had sawdust on the floor, for the -learned Doctor endorsed old Omar Khayyam's love of the pub with: -"There is nothing which has been contrived by man by which so much -happiness is produced as by a good tavern." Yet he was no gourmet, as -may be judged by his likening of a succulent, golden-fried oyster to -"a baby's ear dropped in sawdust." - -Perhaps it is just as well that no description of the world's first -Golden Buck has come down from him. But we don't have to look far for -on-the-spot pen pictures by other men of letters at "The Cheese," as -it was affectionately called. To a man they sang praises for that -piping hot dish of preserved and beatified milk. - -Inspired by stewed cheese, Mark Lemon, the leading rhymester of -_Punch_, wrote the following poem and dedicated it to the memory of -Lovelace: - - Champagne will not a dinner make, - Nor caviar a meal - Men gluttonous and rich may take - Those till they make them ill - If I've potatoes to my chop, - And after chop have cheese, - Angels in Pond and Spiers's shop - Know no such luxuries. - -All that's necessary is an old-time "cheese stewer" or a reasonable -substitute. The base of this is what was once quaintly called a -"hot-water bath." This was a sort of miniature wash boiler just big -enough to fit in snugly half a dozen individual tins, made squarish -and standing high enough above the bath water to keep any of it from -getting into the stew. In these tins the cheese is melted. But since -such a tinsmith's contraption is hard to come by in these days of -fireproof cooking glass, we suggest muffin tins, ramekins or even -small cups to crowd into the bottom of your double boiler or chafing -dish. But beyond this we plump for a revival of the "cheese stewer" in -stainless steel, silver or glass. - -In the ritual at "The Cheese," these dishes, brimming over, "bubbling -and blistering with the stew," followed a pudding that's still famous. -Although down the centuries the recipe has been kept secret, the -identifiable ingredients have been itemized as follows: "Tender steak, -savory oyster, seductive kidney, fascinating lark, rich gravy, ardent -pepper and delicate paste"--not to mention mushrooms. And after the -second or third helping of pudding, with a pint of stout, bitter, or -the mildest and mellowest brown October Ale in a dented pewter pot, -"the stewed Cheshire cheese." - -Cheese was the one and only other course prescribed by tradition and -appetite from the time when Charles II aled and regaled Nell Gwyn at -"The Cheese," where Shakespeare is said to have sampled this "kind of -a glorified Welsh Rarebit, served piping hot in the square shallow -tins in which it is cooked and garnished with sippets of delicately -colored toast." - -Among early records is this report of Addison's in _The Spectator_ of -September 25,1711: - - They yawn for a Cheshire cheese, and begin about midnight, when - the whole company is disposed to be drowsy. He that yawns widest, - and at the same time so naturally as to produce the most yawns - amongst his spectators, carries home the cheese. - -Only a short time later, in 1725, the proprietor of Simpson's in the -Strand inaugurated a daily guessing contest that drew crowds to his -fashionable eating and drinking place. He would set forth a huge -portion of cheese and wager champagne and cigars for the house that no -one present could correctly estimate the weight, height and girth of -it. - -As late as 1795, when Boswell was accompanying Dr. Johnson to "The -Cheese," records of St. Dunstan's Club, which also met there, showed -that the current price of a Buck Rabbit was tuppence, and that this -was also the amount of the usual tip. - - - Ye Original Recipe - -1-1/2 ounces butter -1 cup cream -1-1/2 cups grated Cheshire cheese (more pungent, snappier, richer, -and more brightly colored than its first cousin, Cheddar) - - Heat butter and cream together, then stir in the cheese and let - it stew. - - You dunk fingers of toast directly into your individual tin, or - pour the Stewed Rabbit over toast and brown the top under a - blistering salamander. - - The salamander is worth modernizing, too, so you can brand your - own Rabbits with your monogram or the design of your own - Rabbitry. Such a branding iron might be square, like the stew - tin, and about the size of a piece of toast - -It is notable that there is no beer or ale in this recipe, but not -lamentable, since all aboriginal cheese toasts were washed down in -tossing seas of ale, beer, porter, stout, and 'arf and 'arf. - -This creamy Stewed Buck, on which the literary greats of Johnson's -time supped while they smoked their church wardens, received its -highest praise from an American newspaper woman who rhapsodized in -1891: "Then came stewed cheese, on the thin shaving of crisp, golden -toast in hot silver saucers--so hot that the cheese was the substance -of thick cream, the flavor of purple pansies and red raspberries -commingled." - -This may seem a bit flowery, but in truth many fine cheeses hold a -trace of the bouquet of the flowers that have enriched the milk. -Alpine blooms and herbs haunt the Gruyere, Parmesan wafts the scent of -Parma violets, the Flower Cheese of England is perfumed with the -petals of rose, violet, marigold and jasmine. - - - Oven Rabbit (FROM AN OLD RECIPE) - - Chop small 1/2 pound of cooking cheese. Put it, with a piece of - butter the size of a walnut, in a little saucepan, and as the - butter melts and the cheese gets warm, mash them together, - - When softened add 2 yolks of eggs, 1/2 teacupful of ale, a little - cayenne pepper and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon one way only, - until it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would spoil - it. Place some slices of buttered toast on a dish, pour the - Rarebit upon them, and set inside-the oven about 2 minutes before - serving. - - - Yorkshire Rabbit _(originally called Gherkin Buck, -from a pioneer recipe_) - - Put into a saucepan 1/2 pound of cheese, sprinkle with pepper - (black, of course) to taste, pour over 1/2 teacup of ale, and - convert the whole into a smooth, creamy mass, over the fire, - stirring continually, for about 10 minutes. - - In 2 more minutes it should be done. (10 minutes altogether is - the minimum.) Pour it over slices of hot toast, place a piece of - broiled bacon on the top of each and serve as hot as possible. - - - Golden Buck - - A Golden Buck is simply the Basic Welsh Rabbit with beer (No. 1) - plus a poached egg on top. The egg, sunny side up, gave it its - shining name a couple of centuries ago. Nowadays some chafing - dish show-offs try to gild the Golden Buck with dashes of ginger - and spice. - - - Golden Buck II - - This is only a Golden Buck with the addition of bacon strips. - - - The Venerable Yorkshire Buck - - Spread 1/2-inch slices of bread with mustard and brown in hot - oven. Then moisten each slice with 1/2 glass of ale, lay on top a - slice of cheese 1/4-inch thick, and 2 slices of bacon on top of - that. Put back in oven, cook till cheese is melted and the bacon - crisp, and serve piping hot, with tankards of cold ale. - -Bacon is the thing that identifies any Yorkshire Rabbit. - - - Yale College Welsh Rabbit (MORIARTY'S) - -1 jigger of beer -1/4 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/4 teaspoon mustard -1-1/2 cups grated or shaved cheese -More beer - - Pour the jigger of beer into "a low saucepan," dash on the - seasonings, add the cheese and stir unremittingly, moistening - from time to time with more beer, a pony or two at a time. - - When creamy, pour over buttered toast (2 slices for this amount) - and serve with still more beer. - -There are two schools of postgraduate Rabbit-hunters: Yale, as above, -with beer both in the Rabbit and with it; and the other featured in -the Stieff Recipe, which prefers leaving it out of the Rabbit, but -taps a keg to drink with it. - -The ancient age of Moriarty's campus classic is registered by the use -of pioneer black pepper in place of white, which is often used today -and is thought more sophisticated by some than the red cayenne of -Rector's Naughty Nineties Chafing Dish Rabbit, which is precisely the -same as our Basic Recipe No. 1. - - - Border-hopping Bunny, or Frijole Rabbit - -1-1/2 tablespoons butter -1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -2 tablespoons chopped pepper, green or red, or both -1-1/2 teaspoon chili powder -1 small can kidney beans, drained -1-1/2 tablespoons catsup -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire -Salt -2 cups grated cheese - - Cook onion and pepper lightly in butter with chili powder; add - kidney beans and seasonings and stir in the cheese until melted. - - Serve this beany Bunny peppery hot on tortillas or crackers, - toasted and buttered. - -In the whole hutch of kitchen Rabbitry the most popular modern ones -are made with tomato, a little or lots. They hop in from everywhere, -from Mexico to South Africa, and call for all kinds of quirks, down to -mixing in some dried beef, and there is even a skimpy Tomato Rabbit -for reducers, made with farmer cheese and skimmed milk. - -Although the quaintly named Rum Tum Tiddy was doubtless the -great-grandpappy of all Tomato Rabbits, a richer, more buttery and -more eggy one has taken its place as the standard today. The following -is a typical recipe for this, tried and true, since it has had a -successful run through a score of the best modern cookbooks, with only -slight personal changes to keep its juice a-flowing blood-red. - - - Tomato Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -3/4 cup thin cream or evaporated milk -3/4 cup canned tomato pulp, rubbed through a sieve to remove seeds -A pinch of soda -3 cups grated cheese -Pinches of dry mustard, salt and cayenne -2 eggs, lightly beaten - - Blend flour in melted butter, add cream slowly, and when this - white sauce is a little thick, stir in tomato sprinkled with - soda. Keep stirring steadily while adding cheese and seasonings, - and when cooked enough, stir in the eggs to make a creamy - texture, smooth as silk. Serve on buttered whole wheat or graham - bread for a change. - -Instead of soda, some antiquated recipes call for "a tablespoon of -bicarbonate of potash." - - - South African Tomato Rabbit - - This is the same as above, except that 1/2 teaspoon of sugar is - used in place of the soda and the Rabbit is poured over baked - pastry cut into squares and sprinkled with parsley, chopped fine, - put in the oven and served immediately. - - - Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc. (OLD BOSTON -STYLE) - -1 tablespoon butter -1 onion, minced -1 teaspoon salt -1 big pinch of pepper -2 cups cooked tomatoes -1 tablespoon sugar -3 cups grated store cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Slowly fry onion bright golden in butter, season and add tomatoes - with sugar. Heat just under the bubbling point. Don't let it - boil, but keep adding cheese and shaking the pan until it melts. - Then stir in egg gently and serve very hot - - - Tomato Soup Rabbit - -1 can condensed tomato soup -2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt and pepper - - Heat soup, stir in cheese until melted, add mustard and egg - slowly, season and serve hot. - -This is a quickie Rum Tum Tiddy, without any onion, a poor, -housebroken version of the original. It can be called a Celery Rabbit -if you use a can of celery soup in place of the tomato. - - - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy, but use only 1-1/2 cups cooked - tomatoes and add 1/2 cup of mashed boiled onions. - - - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy - -1 tablespoon butter -1 small onion, minced -1 small green pepper, minced -1 can tomato soup -3/4 cup milk -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten -1 jigger sherry -Crackers - - Prepare as in Rum Tum Tiddy. Stir in sherry last to retain its - flavor. Crumble crackers into a hot tureen until it's about 1/3 - full and pour the hot Rum Tum Tiddy over them. - - - Blushing Bunny - - This is a sister-under-the-skin to the old-fashioned Rum Tum - Tiddy, except that her complexion is made a little rosier with a - lot of paprika in place of plain pepper, and the paprika cooked - in from the start, of course. - -Blushing Bunny is one of those playful English names for dishes, like -Pink Poodle, Scotch Woodcock (given below), Bubble and Squeak -_(Bubblum Squeakum_), and Toad in the Hole. - - - Scotch Woodcock - - Another variant of Rum Tum Tiddy. Make your Rum Tum Tiddy, but - before finishing up with the beaten egg, stir in 2 heaping - tablespoons of anchovy paste and prepare the buttered toast by - laying on slices of hard-cooked eggs. - - - American Woodchuck - -1-1/2 cups tomato puree -2 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -Cayenne -1 tablespoon brown sugar -Salt and pepper - - Heat the tomato and stir in the cheese. When partly melted stir - in the egg and, when almost cooked, add seasonings without ever - interrupting the stirring. Pour over hot toasted crackers or - bread. - -No doubt this all-American Tomato Rabbit with brown sugar was named -after the native woodchuck, in playful imitation of the Scotch -Woodcock above. It's the only Rabbit we know that's sweetened with -brown sugar. - - - Running Rabbit (_as served at the Waldorf-Astoria, -First Annual Cheeselers Field Day, November 12,1937_) - - Cut finest old American cheese in very small pieces and melt in - saucepan with a little good beer. Season and add Worcestershire - sauce. Serve instantly with freshly made toast. - -This running cony can be poured over toast like any other Rabbit, or -over crushed crackers in a hot tureen, as in Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, or -served like Fondue, in the original cooking bowl or pan, with the -spoon kept moving in it in one direction only and the Rabbit following -the spoon, like a greyhound following the stuffed rabbit at the dog -races. - - - Mexican Chilaly - -1 tablespoon butter -3 tablespoons chopped green pepper 1-1/2 tablespoons chopped onion -1 cup chopped and drained canned tomatoes, without seeds -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -3/4 teaspoon salt -Dash of cayenne -1 egg, lightly beaten -2 tablespoons canned tomato juice -Water cress - - Cook pepper and onion lightly in butter, add tomato pulp and cook - 5 minutes before putting over boiling water and stirring steadily - as you add cheese and seasonings. Moisten the egg with the tomato - juice and stir in until the Rabbit is thick and velvety. - - Serve on toast and dress with water cress. - -This popular modern Rabbit seems to be a twin to Rum Tum Tiddy in -spite of the centuries' difference in age. - - - Fluffy, Eggy Rabbit - - Stir up a Chilaly as above, but use 2 well-beaten eggs to make it - more fluffy, and leave out the watercress. Serve it hot over cold - slices of hard-cooked eggs crowded flat on hot buttered toast, to - make it extra eggy. - - - Grilled Tomato Rabbit - - Slice big, red, juicy tomatoes 1/2-inch thick, season with salt, - pepper and plenty of brown sugar. Dot both sides with all the - butter that won't slip off. - - Heat in moderate oven, and when almost cooked, remove and broil - on both sides. Put on hot plates in place of the usual toast and - pour the Rabbit over them. (The Rabbit is made according to - either Basic Recipe No. 1 or No. 2.) - - Slices of crisp bacon on top of the tomato slices and a touch of - horseradish help. - - - Grilled Tomato and Onion Rabbit - - Slice 1/4-inch thick an equal number of tomato and onion rings. - Season with salt, pepper, brown sugar and dots of butter. Heat in - moderate oven, and when almost cooked remove and broil lightly. - - On hot plates lay first the onion rings, top with the tomato ones - and pour the Rabbit over, as in the plain Grilled Tomato recipe - above. - -For another onion-flavored Rabbit see Celery and Onion Rabbit. - - - The Devil's Own (_a fresh tomato variant_) - -2 tablespoons butter -1 large peeled tomato in 4 thick slices -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -A pinch of cayenne -A dash of tabasco sauce -2 tablespoons chili sauce -1/2 cup ale or beer -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Saute tomato slices lightly on both sides in 1 tablespoon butter. - Keep warm on hot platter while you make the toast and a Basic - Rabbit, pepped up by the extra-hot seasonings listed above. Put - hot tomato slices on hot toast on hot plates; pour the hot - mixture over. - - - Dried Beef or Chipped Beef Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -1 cup canned tomato, drained, chopped and de-seeded -1/4 pound dried beef, shredded -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1/4 teaspoon pepper -2 cups grated cheese - - Heat tomato in butter, add beef and eggs, stir until mixed well, - then sprinkle with pepper, stir in the grated cheese until smooth - and creamy. Serve on toast. - -No salt is needed on this jerked steer meat that is called both dried -beef and chipped beef on this side of the border, _tasajo_ on the -other side, and _xarque_ when you get all the way down to Brazil. - - - Kansas Jack Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup cream-style corn -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in cheese - steadily and gradually until melted. Add corn and season to - taste. Serve on hot buttered toast. - -Kansas has plenty of the makings for this, yet the dish must have been -easier to make on Baron Muenchhausen's "Island of Cheese," where the -cornstalks produced loaves of bread, ready-made, instead of ears, and -were no doubt crossed with long-eared jacks to produce Corn Rabbits -quite as miraculous. - -After tomatoes, in popularity, come onions and then green peppers or -canned pimientos as vegetable ingredients in modern, Americanized -Rabbits. And after that, corn, as in the following recipe which -appeals to all Latin-Americans from Mexico to Chile because it has -everything. - - - Latin-American Corn Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -1 green pepper, chopped -1 large onion, chopped -1/2 cup condensed tomato soup -3 cups grated cheese -1 teaspoon salt -1/4 teaspoon black pepper -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1 cup canned corn -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Fry pepper and onion 5 minutes in butter; add soup, cover and - cook 5 minutes more. Put over boiling water; add cheese with - seasonings and stir steadily, slowly adding the corn, and when - thoroughly blended and creamy, moisten the egg with a little of - the liquid, stir in until thickened and then pour over hot toast - or crackers. - - - Mushroom-Tomato Rabbit - - In one pan commence frying in butter 1 cup of sliced fresh - mushrooms, and in another make a Rabbit by melting over boiling - water 2 cups of grated cheese with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 - teaspoon paprika. Stir steadily and, when partially melted, stir - in a can of condensed tomato soup, previously heated. Then add - the fried mushrooms slowly, stir until creamy and pour over hot - toast or crackers. - - - Celery and Onion Rabbit - -1/2 cup chopped hearts of celery -1 small onion, chopped -1 tablespoon butter -1-1/2 cups grated sharp cheese -Salt and pepper - - In a separate pan boil celery and onion until tender. Meanwhile, - melt cheese with butter and seasonings and stir steadily. When - nearly done stir the celery and onion in gradually, until smooth - and creamy. - - Pour over buttered toast and brown with a salamander or under the - grill. - - - Asparagus Rabbit - - Make as above, substituting a cupful of tender sliced asparagus - tops for the celery and onion. - - - Oyster Rabbit - -2 dozen oysters and their liquor -1 teaspoon butter -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1 large pinch of salt -1 small pinch of cayenne -3 cups grated cheese - - Heat oysters until edges curl and put aside to keep warm while - you proceed to stir up a Rabbit. When cheese is melted add the - eggs with some of the oyster liquor and keep stirring. When the - Rabbit has thickened to a smooth cream, drop in the warm oysters - to heat a little more, and serve on hot buttered toast. - - - Sea-food Rabbits - - _(crab, lobster, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, abalone, - squid, octopi; anything that swims in the sea or crawls on the - bottom of the ocean)_ - - Shred, flake or mince a cupful of any freshly cooked or canned - sea food and save some of the liquor, if any. Make according to - Oyster Rabbit recipe above. - - Instead of using only one kind of sea food, try several, mixed - according to taste. Spike this succulent Sea Rabbit with - horseradish or a dollop of sherry, for a change. - - - "Bouquet of the Sea" Rabbit - - The seafaring Portuguese set the style for this lush bouquet of - as many different kinds of cooked fish (tuna, cod, salmon, etc.) - as can be sardined together in the whirlpool of melted cheese in - the chafing dish. They also accent it with tidbits of sea food as - above. - - - Other Fish Rabbit, Fresh or Dried - - Any cooked fresh fish, flaked or shredded, from the alewife to - the whale, or cooked dried herring, finnan haddie, mackerel, cod, - and so on, can be stirred in to make a basic Rabbit more tasty. - Happy combinations are hit upon in mixing leftovers of several - kinds by the cupful. So the odd old cookbook direction, "Add a - cup of fish," takes on new meaning. - - - Grilled Sardine Rabbit - - Make a Basic Rabbit and pour it over sardines, skinned, boned, - halved and grilled, on buttered toast. - - Similarly cooked fillets of any small fish will make as succulent - a grilled Rabbit. - - - Roe Rabbits - - Slice cooked roe of shad or toothsome eggs of other fish, grill - on toast, butter well and pour a Basic Rabbit over. Although shad - roe is esteemed the finest, there are many other sapid ones of - salmon, herring, flounder, cod, etc. - - - Plain Sardine Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit with only 2 cups of cheese, and in place of the - egg yolks and beer, stir in a large tin of sardines, skinned, - boned and flaked. - - - Anchovy Rabbit - - Make Basic Rabbit, add 1 tablespoon of imported East Indian - chutney with the egg yolks and beer at the finish, spread toast - thickly with anchovy paste and butter, and pour the Rabbit over. - - - Smoked sturgeon, whiting, eel, smoked salmon, and the like - - Lay cold slices or flakes of any fine smoked fish (and all of - them are fine) on hot buttered toast and pour a Basic Rabbit over - the fish. - - The best combination we ever tasted is made by laying a thin - slice of smoked salmon over a thick one of smoked sturgeon. - - - Smoked Cheddar Rabbit - - With or without smoked fish, Rabbit-hunters whose palates crave - the savor of a wisp of smoke go for a Basic Rabbit made with - smoked Cheddar in place of the usual aged, but unsmoked, Cheddar. - We use a two-year-old that Phil Alpert, Mr. Cheese himself, - brings down from Canada and has specially smoked in the same - savory room where sturgeon is getting the works. So his Cheddar - absorbs the de luxe flavor of six-dollar-per-pound sturgeon and - is sold for a fraction of that. - - And just in case you are fishing around for something extra - special, serve this smoky Rabbit on oven-browned Bombay ducks, - those crunchy flat toasts of East Indian fish. - - Or go Oriental by accompanying this with cups of smoky Lapsang - Soochong China tea. - - - Crumby Rabbit - -1 tablespoon butter -2 cups grated cheese -1 cup stale bread crumbs - soaked with -1 cup milk -1 egg, lightly beaten -Salt -Cayenne -Toasted crackers - - Melt cheese in butter, stir in the soaked crumbs and seasonings. - When cooked smooth and creamy, stir in the egg to thicken the - mixture and serve on toasted crackers, dry or buttered, for - contrast with the bread. - - Some Rabbiteers monkey with this, lacing it with half a cup of - catsup, making a sort of pink baboon out of what should be a - white monkey. - - There is a cult for Crumby Rabbits variations on which extend all - the way to a deep casserole dish called Baked Rabbit and - consisting of alternate layers of stale bread crumbs and - grated-cheese crumbs. This illegitimate three-layer Rabbit is - moistened with eggs beaten up with milk, and seasoned with salt - and paprika. - - - Crumby Tomato Rabbit - -2 teaspoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup soft bread crumbs -1 cup tomato soup -Salt and pepper -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Melt cheese in butter, moisten bread crumbs with the tomato soup - and stir in; season, add egg and keep stirring until velvety. - Serve on toasted crackers, as a contrast to the bread crumbs. - - - Gherkin or Irish Rabbit - -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup milk (or beer) -A dash of vinegar -1/2 teaspoon mustard -Salt and pepper -1/2 cup chopped gherkin pickles - - Melt cheese in butter, steadily stir in liquid and seasonings. - Keep stirring until smooth, then add the pickles and serve. - -This may have been called Irish after the green of the pickle. - - - Dutch Rabbit - - Melt thin slices of any good cooking cheese in a heavy skillet - with a little butter, prepared mustard, and a splash of beer. - - Have ready some slices of toast soaked in hot beer or ale and - pour the Rabbit over them. - - The temperance version of this substitutes milk for beer and - delicately soaks the toast in hot water instead. - -Proof that there is no Anglo-Saxon influence here lies in the use of -prepared mustard. The English, who still do a lot of things the hard -way, mix their biting dry mustard fresh with water before every meal, -while the Germans and French bottle theirs, as we do. - - - Pumpernickel Rabbit - - This German deviation is made exactly the same as the Dutch - Rabbit above, but its ingredients are the opposite in color. - Black bread (pumpernickel) slices are soaked in heated dark beer - (porter or stout) and the yellow cheese melted in the skillet is - also stirred up with brunette beer. - -Since beer is a kind of liquid bread, it is natural for the two to -commingle in Rabbits whether they are blond Dutch or black -pumpernickel. And since cheese is only solid milk, and the Cheddar is -noted for its beery smell, there is further affinity here. An old -English proverb sums it up neatly: "Bread and cheese are the two -targets against death." - -By the way, the word pumpernickel is said to have been coined when -Napoleon tasted his first black bread in Germany. Contemptuously he -spat it out with: "This would be good for my horse, Nicole." "_Bon -pour Nicole_" in French. - - - Gruyere Welsh Rabbit _au gratin_ - - Cut crusts from a half-dozen slices of bread. Toast them lightly, - lay in a roasting pan and top each with a matching slice of - imported Gruyere 3/8-inch thick. Pepper to taste and cover with - bread crumbs. Put in oven 10 minutes and rush to the ultimate - consumer. - -To our American ears anything _au gratin_ suggests "with cheese," so -this Rabbit _au gratin_ may sound redundant. To a Frenchman, however, -it means a dish covered with bread crumbs. - - - Swiss Cheese Rabbit - -1/2 cup white wine, preferably Neufchatel -1/2 cup grated Gruyere -1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -1/2 saltspoon paprika -2 egg yolks - - Stir wine and seasonings together with the cheese until it melts, - then thicken with the egg yolks, stirring at least 3 more minutes - until smooth. - - - Sherry Rabbit - -3 cups grated cheese -1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk -1/2 cup sherry -1/4 teaspoon English mustard -1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce -A dash of paprika - - Heat cheese over hot water, with or without a bit of butter, and - when it begins to melt, stir in the cream. Keep stirring until - almost all of the cheese is melted, then add sherry. When smooth - and creamy, stir in the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, and - after pouring over buttered toast dash with paprika for color. - - - Spanish Sherry Rabbit - -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -1 bouillon cube, mashed -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 cups milk -1-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 jigger sherry - - Make a smooth paste of butter, flour, bouillon cube and - seasonings, and add milk slowly. When well-heated stir in the - cheese gradually. Continue stirring at least 10 minutes, and when - well-blended stir in the sherry and serve on hot, buttered toast. - - - Pink Poodle - -2 tablespoons butter -1 tablespoon chopped onion -1 tablespoon flour -1 jigger California claret -1 cup cream of tomato soup -A pinch of soda -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 teaspoon paprika -A dash of powdered cloves -3 cups grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten - - Cook onion in butter until light golden, then blend in flour, - wine and soup with the soda and all seasonings. Stir in cheese - slowly until melted and finish off by thickening with the egg and - stirring until smooth and velvety. Serve on crisp, buttered toast - with a dry red wine. - -Although wine Rabbits, red or white, are as unusual as Swiss ones with -Gruyere in place of Cheddar, wine is commonly drunk with anything from -a Golden Buck to a Blushing Bunny. But for most of us, a deep draught -of beer or ale goes best with an even deeper draught of the mellow -scent of a Cheddar golden-yellow. - - - Savory Eggy Dry Rabbit - -1/8 pound butter -2 cups grated Gruyere -4 eggs, well-beaten -Salt -Pepper -Mustard - - Melt butter and cheese together with the beaten eggs, stirring - steadily with wooden spoon until soft and smooth. Season and pour - over dry toast. - -This "dry" Rabbit, in which the volume of the eggs makes up for any -lacking liquid, is still served as a savory after the sweets to finish -a fine meal in some old-fashioned English homes and hostelries. - - - Cream Cheese Rabbit - - This Rabbit, made with a package of cream cheese, is more - scrambled hen fruit than Rabbit food, for you simply scramble a - half-dozen eggs with butter, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, and - just before the finish work in the cheese until smooth and serve - on crackers--water crackers for a change. - - - Reducing Rarebit (Tomato Rarebit)[A] - -YIELD: 2 servings. 235 calories per serving. - -1/2 pound farmer cheese -2 eggs -1 level tablespoon powdered milk -1 level teaspoon baking powder -1 teaspoon gelatin or agar powder -4 egg tomatoes, quartered, or -2 tomatoes, quartered -1 teaspoon caraway seeds -1/4 teaspoon garlic powder -1 teaspoon parsley flakes -1/2 head lettuce and/or 1 cucumber -1/4 cup wine vinegar -Salt and pepper to taste - -[Footnote A: (from _The Low-Calory Cookbook_ by Bernard Koten, -published by Random House)] - - Fill bottom of double boiler with water to 3/4 mark. Sprinkle - salt in upper part of double boiler. Boil over medium flame. When - upper part is hot, put in cheese, powdered milk, baking powder, - gelatin, caraway seeds and pepper and garlic powder to taste. - Mix. Break eggs into this mixture, cook over low flame, - continually stirring. Add tomatoes when mixture bubbles and - continue cooking and stirring until tomatoes have been cooked - soft. Remove to lettuce and/or cucumber (sliced thin) which has - been slightly marinated in wine vinegar and sprinkle the parsley - flakes over the top of the mixture. - - - Curry Rabbit - -1 tablespoon cornstarch -2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups grated cheese -1 tablespoon minced chives -2 green onions, minced -2 shallots, minced -1/4 teaspoon imported curry powder -1 tablespoon chutney sauce - - Dissolve cornstarch in a little of the milk and scald the rest - over hot water. Thicken with cornstarch mixture and stir in the - cheese, chives, onions, shallots, curry and chutney while - wooden-spooning steadily until smooth and sizzling enough to pour - over buttered toast. - -People who can't let well enough alone put cornstarch in Rabbits, just -as they add soda to spoil the cooking of vegetables. - - - Ginger Ale Rabbit - - Simply substitute ginger ale for the real thing in the No. 1 - Rabbit of all time. - - - Buttermilk Rabbit - - Substitute buttermilk for plain milk in the No. 2 Rabbit. To be - consistent, use fresh-cured Buttermilk Cheese, instead of the - usual Cheddar of fresh cow's milk. This is milder. - - - Eggnog Rabbit - -2 tablespoons sweet butter -2 cups grated mellow Cheddar -1-1/3 cups eggnog -Dashes of spice to taste. - - After melting the cheese in butter, stir in the eggnog and keep - stirring until smooth and thickened. Season or not, depending on - taste and the quality of eggnog employed. - -Ever since the innovation of bottled eggnogs fresh from the milkman in -holiday season, such supremely creamy and flavorful Rabbits have been -multiplying as fast as guinea pigs. - - - All-American Succotash Rabbit - -1 cup milk -3 tablespoons butter -3 tablespoons flour -3 cups grated cheese -1 cup creamed succotash, strained -Salt and pepper - - Make a white sauce of milk, butter and flour and stir in the - cheese steadily and gradually until melted. Add the creamed - succotash and season to taste. - - Serve on toasted, buttered corn bread. - - - Danish Rabbit - -1 quart warm milk -2 cups grated cheese - - Stir together to boiling point and pour over piping-hot toast in - heated bowl. This is an esteemed breakfast dish in north Denmark. - - As in all Rabbits, more or less cheese may be used, to taste. - - Easy English Rabbit - - Soak bread slices in hot beer. Melt thin slices of cheese with - butter in iron frying pan, stir in a few spoonfuls of beer and a - bit of prepared mustard. When smoothly melted, pour over the - piping-hot, beer-soaked toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Six_ - -The Fondue - - -There is a conspiracy among the dictionary makers to take the heart -out of the Fondue. Webster makes it seem no better than a collapsed -souffle, with his definition: - - Fondue. Also, erroneously, _fondu_. A dish made of melted - cheese, butter, eggs, and, often, milk and bread crumbs. - -Thorndike-Barnhart further demotes this dish, that for centuries has -been one of the world's greatest, to "a combination of melted cheese, -eggs and butter" and explains that the name comes from the French -_fondre_, meaning melt. The latest snub is delivered by the up-to-date -_Cook's Quiz_ compiled by TV culinary experts: - - A baked dish with eggs, cheese, butter, milk and bread crumbs. - -A baked dish, indeed! Yet the Fondue has added to the gaiety and -inebriety of nations, if not of dictionaries. It has commanded the -respect of the culinary great. Savarin, Boulestin, Andre Simon, all -have hailed its heavenly consistency, all have been regaled with its -creamy, nay velvety, smoothness. - -A touch of garlic, a dash of kirsch, fresh ground black pepper, -nutmeg, black pearl truffles of Bugey, red cayenne pepper, the -luscious gravy of roast turkey--such little matters help to make an -authentic dunking Fondue, not a baked Fondue, mind you. Jean-Anthelme -Brillat-Savarin a century and a half ago brought the original -"receipt" with him and spread it around with characteristic generosity -during the two years of his exile in New York after the French -Revolution. In his monumental _Physiologie du Gout_ he records an -incident that occurred in 1795: - - Whilst passing through Boston ... I taught the restaurant-keeper - Julien to make a _Fondue_, or eggs cooked with cheese. This dish, - a novelty to the Americans, became so much the rage, that he - (Julien) felt himself obliged, by way of thanks, to send me to - New York the rump of one of those pretty little roebucks that are - brought from Canada in winter, and which was declared exquisite - by the chosen committee whom I convoked for the occasion. - -As the great French gourmet, Savarin was born on the Swiss border (at -Belley, in the fertile Province of Bugey, where Gertrude Stein later -had a summer home), he no doubt ate Gruyere three times a day, as is -the custom in Switzerland and adjacent parts. He sets down the recipe -just as he got it from its Swiss source, the papers of Monsieur -Trolliet, in the neighboring Canton of Berne: - - Take as many eggs as you wish to use, according to the number of - your guests. Then take a lump of good Gruyere cheese, weighing - about a third of the eggs, and a nut of butter about half the - weight of the cheese. (Since today's eggs in America weigh about - 1-1/2 ounces apiece, if you start the Fondue with 8. your lump - of good Gruyere would come to 1/4 pound and your butter to 1/8 - pound.) - - Break and beat the eggs well in a flat pan, then add the butter - and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces. - - Place the pan on a good fire and stir with a wooden spoon until - the mixture is fairly thick and soft; put in a little or no salt, - according to the age of the cheese, and a good deal of pepper, - for this is one of the special attributes of this ancient dish. - - Let it be placed on the table in a hot dish, and if some of the - best wines be produced, and the bottle passed quite freely, a - marvelous effect will be beheld. - -This has long been quoted as the proper way to make the national dish -of Switzerland. Savarin tells of hearing oldsters in his district -laugh over the Bishop of Belley eating his Fondue with a spoon instead -of the traditional fork, in the first decade of the 1700's. He tells, -too, of a Fondue party he threw for a couple of his septuagenarian -cousins in Paris "about the year 1801." - -The party was the result of much friendly taunting of the master: "By -Jove, Jean, you have been bragging for such a long time about your -Fondues, you have continually made our mouths water. It is high time -to put a stop to all this. We will come and breakfast with you some -day and see what sort of thing this dish is." - -Savarin invited them for ten o'clock next day, started them off with -the table laid on a "snow white cloth, and in each one's place two -dozen oysters with a bright golden lemon. At each end of the table -stood a bottle of sauterne, carefully wiped, excepting the cork, which -showed distinctly that it had been in the cellar for a long while.... -After the oysters, which were quite fresh, came some broiled kidneys, -a _terrine_ of _foie gras_, a pie with truffles, and finally the -Fondue. The different ingredients had all been assembled in a stewpan, -which was placed on the table over a chafing dish, heated with spirits -of wine. - -"Then," Savarin is quoted, "I commenced operations on the field of -battle, and my cousins did not lose a single one of my movements. -They were loud in the praise of this preparation, and asked me to let -them have the receipt, which I promised them...." - -This Fondue breakfast party that gave the nineteenth century such a -good start was polished off with "fruits in season and sweets, a cup -of genuine mocha, ... and finally two sorts of liqueurs, one a spirit -for cleansing, and the other an oil for softening." - -This primitive Swiss Cheese Fondue is now prepared more elaborately in -what is called: - - - Neufchatel Style - -2-1/2 cups grated imported Swiss -1-1/2 tablespoons flour -1 clove of garlic -1 cup dry white wine -Crusty French "flute" or hard rolls cut into big mouthfuls, handy - for dunking -1 jigger kirsch -Salt -Pepper -Nutmeg - - The cheese should be shredded or grated coarsely and mixed well - with the flour. Use a chafing dish for cooking and a small heated - casserole for serving. Hub the bottom and sides of the blazer - well with garlic, pour in the wine and heat to bubbling, just - under boiling. Add cheese slowly, half a cup at a time, and stir - steadily in one direction only, as in making Welsh Rabbit. Use a - silver fork. Season with very little salt, always depending on - how salty the cheese is, but use plenty of black pepper, freshly - ground, and a touch of nutmeg. Then pour in the kirsch, stir - steadily and invite guests to dunk their forked bread in the dish - or in a smaller preheated casserole over a low electric or - alcohol burner on the dining table. The trick is to keep the - bubbling melted cheese in rhythmic motion with the fork, both up - and down and around and around. - -The dunkers stab the hunks of crusty French bread through the soft -part to secure a firm hold in the crust, for if your bread comes off -in dunking you pay a forfeit, often a bottle of wine. - -The dunking is done as rhythmically as the stirring, guests taking -regular turns at twirling the fork to keep the cheese swirling. When -this "chafing dish cheese custard," as it has been called in England, -is ready for eating, each in turn thrusts in his fork, sops up a -mouthful with the bread for a sponge and gives the Fondue a final -stir, to keep it always moving in the same direction. All the while -the heat beneath the dish keeps it gently bubbling. - -Such a Neufchatel party was a favorite of King Edward VII, especially -when he was stepping out as the Prince of Wales. He was as fond of -Fondue as most of the great gourmets of his day and preferred it to -Welsh Rabbit, perhaps because of the wine and kirsch that went into -it. - -At such a party a little heated wine is added if the Fondue gets too -thick. When finally it has cooked down to a crust in the bottom of the -dish, this is forked out by the host and divided among the guests as a -very special dividend. - -Any dry white wine will serve in a pinch, and the Switzerland Cheese -Association, in broadcasting this classical recipe, points out that -any dry rum, slivovitz, or brandy, including applejack, will be a -valid substitute for the kirsch. To us, applejack seems specially -suited, when we stop to consider our native taste that has married -apple pie to cheese since pioneer times. - -In culinary usage fondue means "melting to an edible consistency" and -this, of course, doesn't refer to cheese alone, although we use it -chiefly for that. - -In France Fondue is also the common name for a simple dish of eggs -scrambled with grated cheese and butter and served very hot on toasted -bread, or filled into fancy paper cases, quickly browned on top and -served at once. The reason for this is that all baked Fondues fall as -easily and as far as Souffles, although the latter are more noted for -this failing. There is a similarity in the soft fluffiness of both, -although the Fondues are always more moist. For there is a stiff, -stuffed-shirt buildup around any Souffle, suggesting a dressy dinner, -while Fondue started as a self-service dunking bowl. - -Our modern tendency is to try to make over the original French Fondue -on the Welsh Rabbit model--to turn it into a sort of French Rabbit. -Although we know that both Gruyere and Emmentaler are what we call -Swiss and that it is impossible in America to duplicate the rich -Alpine flavor given by the mountain herbs, we are inclined to try all -sorts of domestic cheeses and mixtures thereof. But it's best to stick -to Savarin's "lump of Gruyere" just as the neighboring French and -Italians do. It is interesting to note that this Swiss Alpine cooking -has become so international that it is credited to Italy in the -following description we reprint from _When Madame Cooks_, by an -Englishman, Eric Weir: - - - Fondue a l'Italienne - - This is one of those egg dishes that makes one feel really - grateful to hens. From its name it originated probably in Italy, - but it has crossed the Alps. I have often met it in France, but - only once in Italy. - - First of all, make a very stiff white sauce with butter, flour - and milk. The sauce should be stiff enough to allow the wooden - spoon to stand upright or almost. - - Off the fire, add yolks of eggs and 4 ounces of grated Gruyere - cheese. Mix this in well with the white sauce and season with - salt, pepper and some grated nutmeg. Beat whites of egg firm. Add - the whites to the preparation, stir in, and pour into a pudding - basin. - - Take a large saucepan and fill half full of water. Bring to a - boil, and then place the pudding basin so that the top of the - basin is well out of the water. Allow to boil gently for 1-1/2 to - 2 hours. Renew the boiling water from time to time, as it - evaporates, and take care that the water, in boiling, does not - bubble over the mixture. - - Test with a knife, as for a cake, to see if it is cooked. When - the knife comes out clean, take the basin out of the water and - turn the Fondue out on a dish. It should be fairly firm and keep - the shape of the basin. - - Sprinkle with some finely chopped ham and serve hot. - -The imported Swiss sometimes is cubed instead of grated, then -marinated for four or five hours in dry white wine, before being -melted and liquored with the schnapps. This can be pleasantly adopted -here in: - - - All-American Fondue - -1 pound imported Swiss cheese, cubed -3/4 cup scuppernong or other American white wine -1-1/2 jiggers applejack - - After marinating the Swiss cubes in the wine, simply melt - together over hot water, stir until soft and creamy, add the - applejack and dunk with fingers of toast or your own to a chorus - of "All Bound Round with a Woolen String." - - Of course, this can be treated as a mere vinous Welsh Rabbit and - poured over toast, to be accompanied by beer. But wine is the - thing, for the French Fondue is to dry wine what the Rabbit is to - stale ale or fresh beer. - -We say French instead of Swiss because the French took over the dish -so eagerly, together with the great Gruyere that makes it distinctive. -They internationalized it, sent it around the world with bouillabaisse -and onion soup, that celestial _soupe a l'oignon_ on which snowy -showers of grated Gruyere descend. - -To put the Welsh Rabbit in its place they called it Fondue a -l'Anglaise, which also points up the twinlike relationship of the -world's two favorite dishes of melted cheese. But to differentiate and -show they are not identical twins, the No. 1 dish remained Fromage -Fondue while the second was baptized Fromage Fondue a la Biere. - -Beginning with Savarin the French whisked up more rapturous, -rhapsodic writing about Gruyere and its offspring, the Fondue, -together with the puffed Souffle, than about any other imported cheese -except Parmesan. - -Parmesan and Gruyere were praised as the two greatest culinary -cheeses. A variant Fondue was made of the Italian cheese. - - - Parmesan Fondue - -3 tablespoons butter -1 cup grated Parmesan cheese -4 eggs, lightly beaten -Salt -Pepper - - Over boiling water melt butter and cheese slowly, stir in the - eggs, season to taste and stir steadily in one direction only, - until smooth. - - Pour over fingers of buttered toast. Or spoon it up, as the - ancients did, before there were any forks. It's beaten with a - fork but eaten catch-as-catch-can, like chicken-in-the-rough. - - - Sapsago Swiss Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -2 tablespoons flour -1/2 teaspoon salt -1-1/2 cups milk -2-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese -2-1/2 tablespoons grated Sapsago -1/2 cup dry white wine -Pepper, black and red, freshly ground -Fingers of toast - - Over boiling water stir the first four ingredients into a smooth, - fairly thick cream sauce. Then stir in Swiss cheese until well - melted. After that add the Sapsago, finely grated, and wine in - small splashes. Stir steadily, in one direction only, until - velvety. Season sharply with the contrasting peppers and serve - over fingers of toast. - -This is also nice when served bubbling in individual, preheated -pastry shells, casseroles or ramekins, although this way most of the -fun of the dunking party is left out. To make up for it, however, -cooked slices of mushrooms are sometimes added. - -At the Cheese Cellar in the New York World's Fair Swiss Pavilion, -where a continual dunking party was in progress, thousands of amateurs -learned such basic things as not to overcook the Fondue lest it become -stringy, and the protocol of dunking in turn and keeping the mass in -continual motion until the next on the Fondue line dips in his cube of -bread. The success of the dish depends on making it quickly, keeping -it gently a-bubble and never letting it stand still for a split -second. - -The Swiss, who consume three or four times as much cheese per capita -as we, and almost twice as much as the French, are willing to share -Fondue honors with the French Alpine province of Savoy, a natural -cheese cellar with almost two dozen distinctive types of its very own, -such as Fat cheese, also called Death's Head; La Grande Bornand, a -luscious half-dried sheep's milker; Chevrotins, small, dry goat milk -cheeses; and Le Vacherin. The latter, made in both Savoy and -Switzerland, boasts two interesting variants: - - 1. _Vacherin Fondue or Spiced Fondue:_ Made about the same as - Emmentaler, ripened to sharp age, and then melted, spices added - and the cheese re-formed. It is also called Spiced Fondue and - sells for about two dollars a pound. Named Fondue from being - melted, though it's really recooked, - - 2. _Vacherin a la Main:_ This is a curiosity in cheeses, - resembling a cold, uncooked Fondue. Made of cow's milk, it is - round, a foot in diameter and half a foot high. It is salted and - aged until the rind is hard and the inside more runny than the - ripest Camembert, so it can be eaten with a spoon (like the - cooked Fondue) as well as spread on bread. The local name for it - is _Tome de Montagne_. - -Here is a good assortment of Fondues: - - - Vacherin-Fribourg Fondue - -2 tablespoons butter -1 clove garlic, crushed -2 cups shredded Vacherin cheese -2 tablespoons hot water - - This authentic quickie is started by cooking the garlic in butter - until the butter is melted. Then remove garlic and reduce heat. - Add the soft cheese and stir with silver fork until smooth and - velvety. Add the water in little splashes, stirring constantly in - one direction. Dunk! (In this melted Swiss a little water takes - the place of a lot of wine.) - - - La Fondue Comtois - - This regional specialty of Franche-Comte is made with white wine. - Sauterne, Chablis, Riesling or any Rhenish type will serve - splendidly. Also use butter, grated Gruyere, beaten eggs and that - touch of garlic. - - - Chives Fondue - -3 cups grated Swiss cheese -3 tablespoons flour -2 tablespoons butter -1 garlic clove, crushed -3 tablespoons finely chopped chives -1 cup dry white wine -Salt -Freshly ground pepper -A pinch of nutmeg -1/4 cup kirsch - - Mix cheese and flour. Melt butter in chafing-dish blazer rubbed - with garlic. Cook chives in butter 1 minute. Add wine and heat - just under boiling. Keep simmering as you add cheese-and-flour - mix gradually, stirring always in one direction. Salt according - to age and sharpness of cheese; add plenty of freshly ground - pepper and the pinch of nutmeg. - - When everything is stirred smooth and bubbling, toss in the - kirsch without missing a stroke of the fork and get to dunking. - - Large, crisp, hot potato chips make a pleasant change for dunking - purposes. Or try assorted crackers alternating with the absorbent - bread, or hard rolls. - - - Tomato Fondue - -2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped -1/2 teaspoon dried sweet basil -1 clove garlic -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup dry white wine -2 cups grated Cheddar cheese -Paprika - - Mix basil with chopped tomatoes. Rub chafing dish with garlic, - melt butter, add tomatoes and much paprika. Cook 5 to 6 minutes, - add wine, stir steadily to boiling point. Then add cheese, half a - cup at a time, and keep stirring until everything is smooth. - - Serve on hot toast, like Welsh Rabbit. - -Here the two most popular melted-cheese dishes tangle, but they're -held together with the common ingredient, tomato. - -Fondue also appears as a sauce to pour over baked tomatoes. Stale -bread crumbs are soaked in tomato juice to make: - - Tomato Baked Fondue - -1 cup tomato juice -1 cup stale bread crumbs -1 cup grated sharp American cheese -1 tablespoon melted butter -Salt -4 eggs, separated and well beaten - - Soak crumbs in tomato juice, stir cheese in butter until melted, - season with a little or no salt, depending on saltiness of the - cheese. Mix in the beaten yolks, fold in the white and bake - about 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - -BAKED FONDUES - -Although Savarin's dunking Fondue was first to make a sensation on -these shores and is still in highest esteem among epicures, the Fondue -America took to its bosom was baked. The original recipe came from the -super-caseous province of Savoy under the explicit title, _La Fondue -au Fromage_. - - - La Fondue au Fromage - - Make the usual creamy mixture of butter, flour, milk, yolks of - eggs and Gruyere, in thin slices for a change. Use red pepper - instead of black, splash in a jigger of kirsch but no white wine. - Finally fold in the egg whites and bake in a mold for 45 minutes. - -We adapted this to our national taste which had already based the -whole business of melted cheese on the Welsh Rabbit with stale ale or -milk instead of white wine and Worcestershire, mustard and hot -peppers. Today we have come up with this: - - - 100% American Fondue - -2 cups scalded milk -2 cups stale bread crumbs -1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard -Salt -Dash of nutmeg -Dash of pepper -2 cups American cheese (Cheddar) -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak crumbs in milk, season and stir in the cheese until melted. - Add the beaten egg yolks and stir until you have a smooth - mixture. Let this cool while beating the whites stiff, leaving - them slightly moist. Fold the whites into the cool, custardy mix - and bake in a buttered dish until firm. (About 50 minutes in a - moderate oven.) - -This is more of a baked cheese job than a true Fondue, to our way of -thinking, and the scalded milk doesn't exactly take the place of the -wine or kirsch. It is characteristic of our bland cookery. - - -OTHER FONDUES PLAIN AND FANCY, BAKED AND NOT - - - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy - -3/4 pound sharp cheese, diced -1 can condensed tomato soup -1/2 cup catsup -1/2 teaspoon mustard -1 egg, lightly beaten - - In double boiler melt cheese in soup. Blend thoroughly by - constant stirring. Remove from heat, lightly whip or fold in the - catsup and mustard mixed with egg. Serve on Melba toast or rusks. - -This might be suggested as a novel midnight snack, with a cup of -cocoa, for a change. - - - Cheese and Rice Fondue - -1 cup cooked rice -2 cups milk -4 eggs, separated and well beaten -1/2 cup grated cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cayenne, Worcestershire sauce or tabasco sauce, or all three - - Heat rice (instead of bread crumbs) in milk, stir in cheese until - melted, add egg yolks beaten lemon-yellow, season, fold in stiff - egg whites. Serve hot on toast. - - Corn and Cheese Fondue - -1 cup bread crumbs -1 large can creamed corn -1 small onion, chopped -1/2 green pepper, chopped -2 cups cottage cheese -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 cup milk -2 eggs, well beaten - - Mix all ingredients together and bake in buttered casserole set - in pan of hot water. Bake about 1 hour in moderate oven, or until - set. - - - Cheese Fondue - -1 cup grated Cheddar -1/2 cup crumbled Roquefort -1 cup pimento cheese -3 tablespoons cream -3 tablespoons butter -1 teaspoon Worcestershire - - Stir everything together over hot water until smooth and creamy. - Then whisk until fluffy, moistening with more cream or mayonnaise - if too stiff. - - Serve on Melba toast, or assorted thin toasted crackers. - - - Brick Fondue - -1/2 cup butter -2 cups grated Brick cheese -1/2 cup warm milk -1/2 teaspoon salt -2 eggs - - Melt butter and cheese together, use wire whisk to whip in the - warm milk. Season. Take from fire and beat in the eggs, one at a - time. Please note that Fondue protocol calls for each egg to be - beaten separately in cases like this. - - Serve over hot toast or crackers. - - Cheddar Dunk Bowl - -3/4 pound sharp Cheddar cheese -3 tablespoons cream -2/3 teaspoon dry mustard -1-1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire - - Grate the cheese powdery fine and mash it together with the cream - until fluffy. Season and serve in a beautiful bowl for dunking in - the original style of Savarin, although this is a static - imitation of the real thing. - - All kinds of crackers and colorful dips can be used, from celery - stalks and potato chips to thin paddles cut from Bombay duck. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Seven_ - -Souffles, Puffs and Ramekins - - -There isn't much difference between Cheese Souffles, Puffs and -Ramekins. The _English Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery_, the oldest, -biggest and best of such works in English, lumps Cheese Puffs and -Ramekins together, giving the same recipes for both, although it -treats each extensively under its own name when not made with cheese. - -Cheese was the basis of the original French Ramequin, cheese and bread -crumbs or puff paste, baked in a mold, (with puff again the principal -factor in Souffle, from the French _souffler_, puff up). - - Basic Souffle - -3 tablespoons butter or margarine -4 tablespoons flour -1-1/4 cups hot milk, scalded -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of cayenne -1/2 cup grated Cheddar cheese, sharp -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -2 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Melt butter, stir in flour and milk gradually until thick and - smooth. Season and add the cheese, continuing the cooking and - slow stirring until velvety. Remove from heat and let cool - somewhat; then stir in the egg yolks with a light hand and an - upward motion. Fold in the stiff whites and when evenly mixed - pour into a big, round baking dish. (Some butter it and some - don't.) To make sure the top will be even when baked, run a spoon - or knife around the surface, about 1 inch from the edge of the - dish, before baking slowly in a moderate oven until puffed high - and beautifully browned. Serve instantly for fear the Souffle may - fall. The baking takes up to an hour and the egg whites shouldn't - be beaten so stiff they are hard to fold in and contain no air to - expand and puff up the dish. - -To perk up the seasonings, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, -nutmeg and even garlic are often used to taste, especially in England. - -While Cheddar is the preferred cheese, Parmesan runs it a close -second. Then comes Swiss. You may use any two or all three of these -together. Sometimes Roquefort is added, as in the Ramekin recipes -below. - - - Parmesan Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these small modifications in - the ingredients: - -1 full cup of grated Parmesan -1 extra egg in place of the 1/2 cup of Cheddar cheese -A little more butter -Black pepper, not cayenne - - - Swiss Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these slight changes: - -1-1/4 cups grated Swiss cheese instead of the Cheddar cheese -Nutmeg in place of the cayenne - - - Parmesan-Swiss Souffle - - Make the same as Basic Souffle, with these little differences: - -1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese, and 1/2 cup grated Parmesan in place of -the Cheddar cheese -1/4 teaspoon each of sugar and black pepper for seasoning. - -Any of these makes a light, lovely luncheon or a proper climax to a -grand dinner. - - - Cheese-Corn Souffle - - Make as Basic Souffle, substituting for the scalded milk 1 cup of - sieved and strained juice from cream-style canned corn. - - - Cheese-Spinach Souffle - - Saute 1-1/2 cups of finely chopped, drained spinach in butter - with 1 teaspoon finely grated onion, and then whip it until light - and fluffy. Mix well into the white sauce of the Basic Souffle - before adding the cheese and following the rest of the recipe. - - - Cheese-Tomato Souffle - - Substitute hot tomato juice for the scalded milk. - - - Cheese-Sea-food Souffle - - Add 1-1/2 cups finely chopped or ground lobster, crab, shrimp, - other sea food or mixture thereof, with any preferred seasoning - added. - - - Cheese-Mushroom Souffle - -1-1/2 cups grated sharp Cheddar -1 cup cream of mushroom soup -Paprika, to taste -Salt -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -2 tablespoons chopped, cooked bacon -2 tablespoons sliced, blanched almonds - - Heat cheese with soup and paprika, adding the cheese gradually - and stirring until smooth. Add salt and thicken the sauce with - egg yolks, still stirring steadily, and finally fold in the - whites. Sprinkle with bacon and almonds and bake until golden - brown and puffed high (about 1 hour). - - - Cheese-Potato Souffle (Potato Puff) - -6 potatoes -2 onions -1 tablespoon butter or margarine -1 cup hot milk -3/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese -1 teaspoon salt -A dash of pepper -2 egg yolks, well beaten -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/4 cup grated Cheddar cheese - - Cook potatoes and onions together until tender and put through a - ricer. Mix with all the other ingredients except the egg whites - and the Cheddar. Fold in the egg whites, mix thoroughly and pour - into a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the 1/4 cup of Cheddar on - top and bake in moderate oven about 1/2 hour, until golden-brown - and well puffed. Serve instantly. - - Variations of this popular Souffle leave out the onion and - simplify matters by using 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Sometimes 1 - tablespoon of catsup and another of minced parsley is added to - the mixture. Or onion juice alone, to take the place of the - cooked onions--about a tablespoon, full or scant. - -The English, in concocting such a Potato Puff or Souffle, are inclined -to make it extra peppery, as they do most of their Cheese Souffles, -with not only "a dust of black pepper" but "as much cayenne as may be -stood on the face of a sixpence." - - - Cheese Fritter Souffles - - These combine ham with Parmesan cheese and are even more - delicately handled in the making than crepes suzette. - - -PUFFS - - - Three-in-One Puffs - -1 cup grated Swiss -1 cup grated Parmesan -1 cup cream cheese -5 eggs, lightly beaten -salt and pepper - - Mix the cheeses into one mass moistened with the beaten eggs, - splashed on at intervals. When thoroughly incorporated, put in - ramekins, tiny tins, cups, or any sort of little mold of any - shape. Bake in hot oven about 10 minutes, until richly browned. - -Such miniature Souffles serve as liaison officers for this entire -section, since they are baked in ramekins, or ramequins, from the -French word for the small baking dish that holds only one portion. -These may be paper boxes, usually round, earthenware, china, Pyrex, -of any attractive shape in which to bake or serve the Puffs. - -More commonly, in America at least, Puffs are made without ramekin -dishes, as follows: - - - Fried Puffs - -2 egg whites, beaten stiff -1/2 cup grated cheese -1 tablespoon flour -Salt -Paprika - - Into the stiff egg whites fold the cheese, flour and seasonings. - When thoroughly mixed pat into shape desired, roll in crumbs and - fry. - - - Roquefort Puffs - -1/8 pound genuine French Roquefort -1 egg white, beaten stiff -8 crackers or 2-inch bread rounds - - Cream the Roquefort, fold in the egg white, pile on crackers and - bake 15 minutes in slow oven. - -The constant repetition of "beaten stiff" in these recipes may give -the impression that the whites are badly beaten up, but such is not -the case. They are simply whipped to peaks and left moist and -glistening as a teardrop, with a slight sad droop to them that shows -there is still room for the air to expand and puff things up in -cooking. - - - Parmesan Puffs - - Make a spread of mayonnaise or other salad dressing with equal - parts of imported Parmesan, grated fine. Spread on a score or - more of crackers in a roomy pan and broil a couple of minutes - till they puff up golden-brown. - - Use only the best Parmesan, imported from Italy; or, second best, - from Argentina where the rich pampas grass and Italian settlers - get together on excellent Parmesan and Romano. Never buy Parmesan - already grated; it quickly loses its flavor. - - - Breakfast Puffs - -1 cup flour -1 cup milk -1/4 cup finely grated cheese -1 egg, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt - - Mix all together to a smooth, light batter and fill ramekins or - cups half full; then bake in quick oven until they are puffing - over the top and golden-brown. - - - Danish Fondue Puffs - -1 stale roll -1/2 cup boiling hot milk -Salt -Pepper -2 cups freshly grated Cheddar cheese -4 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -4 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Soak roll in boiling milk and beat to a paste. Mix with cheese - and egg yolks. When smooth and thickened fold in the egg whites - and fill ramekins, tins, cups or paper forms and slowly bake - until puffed up and golden-brown. - - - New England Cheese Puffs - -1 cup sifted flour -1 teaspoon baking powder -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon Hungarian paprika -1/4 teaspoon dry mustard -2 egg yolks, beaten lemon-yellow -1/2 cup milk -1 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese -2 egg whites, beaten stiff but not dry - - Sift dry ingredients together, mix yolks with milk and stir in. - Add cheese and when thoroughly incorporated fold in the egg - whites to make a smooth batter. Drop from a big spoon into hot - deep fat and cook until well browned. - - Caraway seeds are sometimes added. Poppy seeds are also used, and - either of these makes a snappier puff, especially tasty when - served with soup. - - A few drops of tabasco give this an extra tang. - - - Cream Cheese Puffs - -1/2 pound cream cheese -1 cup milk -4 eggs, lightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1/2 teaspoon dry mustard - - Soften cheese by heating over hot water. Remove from heat and add - milk, eggs and seasoning. Beat until well blended, then pour into - custard cups, ramekins or any other individual baking dishes that - are attractive enough to serve the puffs in. - - -RAMEKINS OR RAMEQUINS - - -Some Ramekin dishes are made so exquisitely that they may be collected -like snuff bottles. - -Ramekins are utterly French, both the cooked Puffs and the individual -dishes in which they are baked. Essentially a Cheese Puff, this is -also _au gratin_ when topped with both cheese and browned bread -crumbs. By a sort of poetic cook's license the name is also applied to -any kind of cake containing cheese and cooked in the identifying -one-portion ramekin. It is used chiefly in the plural, however, -together with the name of the chief ingredient, such as "Chicken -Ramekins" and: - - - Cheese Ramekins I - -2 eggs -2 tablespoons flour -1/8 pound butter, melted -1/8 pound grated cheese - - Mix well and bake in individual molds for 15 minutes. - - - Cheese Ramekins II - -3 tablespoons melted butter -1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper -3/4 cup bread crumbs -1/2 cup grated cheese -2 eggs, lightly beaten -1-1/2 cups milk - - Mix the first four dry ingredients together, stir eggs into the - milk and add. Stir to a smooth batter and bake in buttered - ramekins, standing in water, in moderate oven. Serve piping hot, - for like Souffles and all associated Puffs, the hot air will puff - out of them quickly; then they will sink and be inedible. - - -TWO ANCIENT ENGLISH RECIPES, STILL GOING STRONG - - - Cheese Ramekins III - - Grate 1/2 pound of any dry, rich cheese. Butter a dozen small - paper cases, or little boxes of stiff writing paper like Souffle - cases. Put a saucepan containing 1/2 pint of water over the fire, - add 2 tablespoons of butter, and when the water boils, stir in 1 - heaping tablespoonful of flour. Beat the mixture until it shrinks - away from the sides of the saucepan; then stir in the grated - cheese. Remove the paste thus made from the fire, and let it - partly cool. In the meantime separate the yolks from the whites - of three eggs, and beat them until the yolks foam and the whites - make a stiff froth. Put the mixture at once into the buttered - paper cases, only half-filling them (since they rise very high - while being baked) with small slices of cheese, and bake in a - moderate oven for about 15 minutes. As soon as the Puffs are - done, put the cases on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin, - and serve very hot. - -The most popular cheese for Ramekins has always been, and still is, -Gruyere. But because the early English also adopted Italian Parmesan, -that followed as a close second, and remains there today. - -Sharp Cheddar makes tangy Ramekins, as will be seen in this second -oldster; for though it prescribes Gloucester and Cheshire -"'arf-and-'arf," both are essentially Cheddars. Gloucester has been -called "a glorified Cheshire" and the latter has long been known as a -peculiarly rich and colorful elder brother of Cheddar, described in -Kenelme Digby's _Closet Open'd_ as a "quick, fat, rich, well-tasted -cheese." - - - Cheese Ramekins IV - - Scrape fine 1/4 pound of Gloucester cheese and 1/4 pound of - Cheshire cheese. Beat this scraped cheese in a mortar with the - yolks of 4 eggs, 1/4 pound of fresh butter, and the crumbs of a - French roll boiled in cream until soft. When all this is well - mixed and pounded to a paste, add the beaten whites of 4 eggs. - Should the paste seem too stiff, 1 or 2 tablespoons of sherry may - be added. Put the paste into paper cases, and bake in a Dutch - oven till nicely browned. The Ramekins should be served very hot. - -Since both Gloucester cheese and Cheshire cheese are not easily come -by even in London today, it would be hard to reproduce this in the -States. So the best we can suggest is to use half-and-half of two of -our own great Cheddars, say half-Coon and half-Wisconsin Longhorn, or -half-Tillamook and half-Herkimer County. For there's no doubt about -it, contrasting cheeses tickle the taste buds, and as many as three -different kinds put together make Puffs all the more perfect. - - - Ramequins a la Parisienne - -2 cups milk -1 cup cream -1 ounce salt butter -1 tablespoon flour -1/2 cup grated Gruyere -Coarsely ground pepper -An atom of nutmeg -A _soupcon_ of garlic -A light touch of powdered sugar -8 eggs, separated - - Boil milk and cream together. Melt butter, mix in the flour and - stir over heat 5 minutes, adding the milk and cream mixture a - little at a time. When thoroughly cooked, remove from heat and - stir in cheese, seasonings and the yolks of all 8 eggs, well - beaten, and the whites of 2 even better beaten. When well mixed, - fold in the remaining egg whites, stiffly beaten, until you have - a batter as smooth and thick as cream. Pour this into ramekins of - paper, porcelain or earthenware, filling each about 2/3 full to - allow for them to puff up as they bake in a very slow oven until - golden-brown (or a little less than 20 minutes). - - - Le Ramequin Morezien - - This celebrated specialty of Franche-Comte is described as "a - porridge of water, butter, seasoning, chopped garlic and toast; - thickened with minced Gruyere and served very hot." - -Several French provinces are known for distinctive individual Puffs -usually served in the dainty fluted forms they are cooked in. In -Jeanne d'Arc's Lorraine, for instance, there are the simply named _Les -Ramequins_, made of flour, Gruyere and eggs. - - - Swiss-Roquefort Ramekins - -1/4 pound Swiss cheese -1/4 pound Roquefort cheese -1/2 pound butter -8 eggs, separated -4 breakfast rolls, crusts removed -1/2 cup cream - - The batter is made in the usual way, with the soft insides of the - rolls simmered in the cream and stirred in. The egg whites are - folded in last, as always, the batter poured into ramekins part - full and baked to a golden-brown. Then they are served - instantaneously, lest they fall. - - Puff Paste Ramekins - - Puff or other pastry is rolled out fiat and sprinkled with fine - tasty cheese or any cheese mixture, such as Parmesan with Gruyere - and/or Swiss Sapsago for a piquant change, but in lesser quantity - than the other cheeses used. Parmesan cheese has long been the - favorite for these. - - Fold paste into 3 layers, roll out again and dust with more - cheese. Fold once more and roll this out and cut in small fancy - shapes to bake 10 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. Brushing with egg - yolk before baking makes these Ramekins shine. - - - Frying Pan Ramekins - - Melt 2 ounces of butter, let it cool a little and then mix with - 1/2 pound of cheese. Fold in the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff - but not dry. Cover frying pan with buttered papers, put slices of - bread on this and cover with the cheese mixture. Cook about 5 - minutes, take it off and brown it with a salamander. - -There are two schools of salamandering among turophiles. One holds -that it toughens the cheese and makes it less digestible; the other -that it's simply swell. Some of the latter addicts have special -cheese-branding irons made with their monograms, to identify their -creations, whether they be burned on the skins of Welsh Rabbits or -Frying Pan Ramekins. Salamandering with an iron that has a gay, -carnivalesque design can make a sort of harlequin Ramekin. - - - Casserole Ramekin - - Here is the Americanization of a French original: In a deep - casserole lay alternate slices of white bread and Swiss cheese, - with the cheese slices a bit bigger all around. Beat 2 eggs with - 2 cups of milk, season with salt and--of all things--nutmeg! - Proceed to bake like individual Ramekins. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eight_ - -Pizzas, Blintzes, Pastes, Cheese Cakes, etc. - - -No matter how big or hungry your family, you can always appease them -with pizza. - - - Pizza--The Tomato Pie of Sicily - -DOUGH - -1 package yeast, dissolved in warm water -2 cups sifted flour -1 teaspoon salt -2 tablespoons olive oil - - Make dough of this. Knead 12 to 20 minutes. Pat into a ball, - cover it tight and let stand 3 hours in warm place until twice - the size. - -TOMATO PASTE - -3 tablespoons olive oil -2 large onions, sliced thin -1 can Italian tomato paste -8 to 10 anchovy filets, cut small -1/2 teaspoon oregano -Salt -Crushed chili pepper -2-1/2 cups water - - In the oil fry onion tender but not too brown, stir in tomato - paste and keep stirring 3 or 4 minutes. Season, pour water over - and simmer slowly 25 to 30 minutes. Add anchovies when sauce is - done. - -CHEESE - -1/2 cup grated Italian, Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino, depending -on your pocketbook - - Procure a low, wide and handsome tin pizza pan, or reasonable - substitute, and grease well before spreading the well-raised - dough 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Poke your finger tips haphazardly - into the dough to make marks that will catch the sauce when you - pour it on generously. Shake on Parmesan or Parmesan-type cheese - and bake in hot oven 1/2 hour, then 1/4 hour more at lower heat - until the pizza is golden-brown. Cut in wedges like any other pie - and serve. - -The proper pans come all tin and a yard wide, down to regular -apple-pie size, but twelve-inch pans are the most popular. - - - Miniature Pizzas - - Miniature pizzas are split English muffins rubbed with garlic or - onion and brushed with olive oil. Cover with tomato sauce and a - slice of Mozzarella cheese, anchovy, oregano and grated Parmesan, - and heat 8 minutes. - - - Italian-Swiss Scallopini - -1 pound paper-thin veal cutlets -1/2 cup flour -1/2 cup grated Swiss and Parmesan, mixed -1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with water -Butter -Salt -Paprika - - Moisten veal with egg and roll in flour mixed with cheese, - quickly brown, lower flame and cook 4 to 5 minutes till tender. - Dust with paprika and salt. - - - Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, or Stuffed Noodles - -1 pound lasagne, or other wide noodles -1-1/2 cups cooked thick tomato sauce with meat -1/2 pound Ricotta or cottage cheese -1 pound Mozzarella or American Cheddar -1/4 pound grated Parmesan, Romano or Pecorino -Salt -Pepper, preferably crushed red pods -A shaker filled with grated Parmesan, or reasonable substitute - - Cook wide or broad noodles 15 to 20 minutes in rapidly boiling - salted water until tender, but not soft, and drain. Pour 1/2 cup - of tomato sauce in baking dish or pan, cover with about 1/2 of - the noodles, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, a layer of sauce, a - layer of Mozzarella and dabs of Ricotta. Continue in this - fashion, alternating layers and seasoning each, ending with a - final spread of sauce, Parmesan and red pepper. Bake firm in - moderate oven, about 15 minutes, and served in wedges like pizza, - with canisters of grated Parmesan, crushed red pepper pods and - more of the sauce to taste. - - - Little Hats, Cappelletti - - Freshly made and still moist Cappelletti, little hats, contrived - out of tasty paste, may be had in any Little Italy macaroni shop. - These may be stuffed sensationally in four different flavors - with only two cheeses. - - Brown slices of chicken and ham separately, in butter. Mince each - very fine and divide in half, to make four mixtures in equal - amounts. Season these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and a binding - of 2 parts egg yolk to I part egg white. - - With these meat mixtures you can make four different-flavored - fillings: - - Ham and Mozzarella Chicken and Mozzarella Ham and Ricotta Chicken - and Ricotta - - Fill the little hats alternately, so you'll have the same number - of each different kind. Pinch edges tight together to keep the - stuffings in while boiling fast for 5 minutes in chicken broth - (or salted water, if you must). - - Since these Cappelletti are only a pleasing form and shape of - ravioli, they are served in the same way on hot plates, with - plain tomato sauce and Parmesan or reasonable substitute. If we - count this final seasoning as an ingredient, this makes three - cheeses, so that each of half a dozen taste buds can be getting - individual sensations without letting the others know what it's - doing. - - - Dauphiny Ravioli - - This French variant of the famous Italian pockets of pastry - follows the Cappelletti pattern, with any fresh goat cheese and - Gruyere melted with butter and minced parsley and boiled in - chicken broth. - - - Italian Fritters - -1/4 cup flour -2 tablespoons sugar -1/4 pound fresh Ricotta -2 eggs, beaten -1/2 cup shredded Mozzarella -Rind of 1/2 lemon, grated -3 tablespoons brandy -Salt - - Stir and mix well together in the order given and let stand 1 - hour or more to thicken the batter so it will hold its shape - while cooking. - - Shape batter like walnuts and hold one at a time in the bowl of a - long-handled spoon dipped for 10 seconds in boiling hot oil. - Fritter the "walnuts" so, and serve at once with powdered sugar. - - To make fascinating cheese croquettes, mix several contrasting - cheeses in this batter. - - - Italian Asparagus and Cheese - - This gives great scope for contrasting cheeses in one and the - same dish. In a shallow baking pan put a foundation layer of - grated Cheddar and a little butter. Cover with a layer of tender - parts of asparagus, lightly salted; next a layer of grated - Gruyere with a bit of butter, and another of asparagus. From here - you can go as far as you like with varied layers of melting - cheeses alternating with asparagus, until you come to the top, - where you add two more kinds of cheese, a mixture of powdered - Parmesan with Sapsago to give the new-mown hay scent. - - - Garlic on Cheese - - For one sandwich prepare 30 or 40 garlic cloves by removing skins - and frying out the fierce pungence in smoking olive oil. They - skip in the hot pan like Mexican jumping beans. Toast one side of - a thickish slice of bread, put this side down on a grilling pan, - cover it with a slice of imported Swiss Emmentaler or Gruyere, of - about the same size, shape and thickness. Stick the cooked garlic - cloves, while still blistering hot, in a close pattern into the - cheese and brown for a minute under the grill. Salt lightly and - dash with paprika for the color. (Recipe by Bob Brown in Merle - Armitage's collection _Fit for a King_.) - -Spaniards call garlic cloves teeth, Englishmen call them toes. It was -cheese and garlic together that inspired Shakespeare to Hotspur's -declaration in _King Henry IV_: - - I had rather live - With cheese and garlic in a windmill, far, - Than feed on cates and have him talk to me - In any summer-house in Christendom. - -Some people can take a mere _soupcon_ of the stuff, while others can -down it by the soup spoon, so we feel it necessary in reprinting our -recipe to point to the warning of another early English writer: -"Garlic is very dangerous to young children, fine women and hot young -men." - - - Blintzes - - This snow white member of the crepes suzette sorority is the most - popular deb in New York's fancy cheese dishes set. Almost unknown - here a decade or two ago, it has joined blinis, kreplach and - cheeseburgers as a quick and sustaining lunch for office workers. - -2 eggs -1 cup water -1 cup sifted flour -Salt -Cooking oil -1/2 pound cottage cheese -2 tablespoons butter -2 cups sour cream - - Beat 1 egg light and make a batter with the water, flour and salt - to taste. Heat a well-greased small frying pan and make little - pancakes with 2 tablespoons of batter each. Cook the cakes over - low heat and on one side only. Slide each cake off on a white - cloth, with the cooked side down. While these are cooling make - the blintz-filling by beating together the second egg, cottage - cheese and butter. Spread each pancake thickly with the mixture - and roll or make into little pockets or envelopes with the end - tucked in to hold the filling. Cook in foil till golden-brown and - serve at once with sufficient sour cream to smother them. - - - Vatroushki - - Russia seems to have been the cradle of all sorts of blinis and - blintzes, and perhaps the first, of them to be made was - vatroushki, a variant of the blintzes above. The chief - difference is that rounds of puff paste dough are used instead of - the hot cakes, 1 teaspoon of sugar is added to the cottage cheese - filling, and the sour cream, 1/2 cup, is mixed into this instead - of being served with it. Little cups filled with this mix are - made by pinching the edges of the dough together. The tops are - brushed with egg yolk and baked in a brisk oven. - - - Cottage Cheese Pancakes - -1 cup prepared pancake -4 tablespoons top milk or light cream -1 teaspoon salt -4 eggs, well beaten -1 tablespoon sugar -2 cups cottage cheese, put through ricer - - Mix batter and stir in cheese last until smooth. - - - Cheese Waffles - -2 cups prepared waffle flour -3 egg yolks, lightly beaten -1/4 cup melted butter -3/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar -3 egg whites, beaten stiff - - Stir up a smooth waffle batter of the first 4 ingredients and - fold in egg whites last. - -Today you can get imported canned Holland cheese waffles to heat -quickly and serve. - - - Napkin Dumpling - -1 pound cottage cheese -1/8 pound butter, softened -3 eggs, beaten -3/4 cup Farina -1/2 teaspoon salt -Cinnamon and brown sugar - - Mix together all ingredients (except the cinnamon and sugar) to - form a ball. Moisten a linen napkin with cold water and tie the - ball of dough in it. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes in salted boiling - water, remove from napkin, sprinkle well with cinnamon and brown - sugar, and serve. This is on the style of Hungarian potato and - other succulent dumplings and may be served with goulash or as a - meal in itself. - - -BUTTER AND CHEESE - - - Where fish is scant - And fruit of trees, - Supply that want - With butter and cheese. - - Thomas Tusser in - _The Last Remedy_ - -Butter and cheese are mixed together in equal parts for cheese butter. -Serbia has a cheese called Butter that more or less matches Turkey's -Durak, of which butter is an indispensable ingredient, and French -Cancoillote is based on sour milk simmered with butter. - -The English have a cheese called Margarine, made with the butter -substitute. In Westphalia there are no two schools of thought about -whether 'tis better to eat butter with cheese or not, for in -Westphalia sour-milk cheese, butter is mixed in as part of the process -of making. The Arabs press curds and butter together to store in vats, -and the Scots have Crowdie or Cruddy Butter. - - -BUTTERMILK CHEESE - - -The value of buttermilk is stressed in an extravagant old Hindu -proverb: "A man may live without bread, but without buttermilk he -dies." - -Cheese was made before butter, being the earliest form of dairy -manufacturing, so buttermilk cheese came well after plain milk cheese, -even after whey cheese. It is very tasty, and a natural with potato -salad. The curd is salted after draining and sold in small parchment -packages. - -German "leather" cheese has buttermilk mixed with the plain. The Danes -make their Appetitost with sour buttermilk. Ricotta Romano, for a -novelty, is made of sheep buttermilk. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE - - -In America cottage cheese is also called pot, Dutch and smearcase. It -is the easiest and quickest to make of all cheeses, by simply letting -milk sour, or adding buttermilk to curdle it, then stand a while on -the back of the kitchen stove, since it is homemade as a rule. It is -drained in a bag of cheesecloth and may be eaten the same day, usually -salted. - -The Pilgrims brought along the following two tried and true recipes -from olde England, and both are still in use and good repute: - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 1_ - -Let milk sour until clotted. Pour boiling water over and it will -immediately curd. Stir well and pour into a colander. Pour a little -cold water on the curd, salt it and break it up attractively for -serving. - - -_Cottage Cheese No. 2_ - -A very rich and tasty variety is made of equal parts whole milk and -buttermilk heated together to just under the boiling point. Pour into -a linen bag and let drain until next day. Then remove, salt to taste -and add a bit of butter or cream to make a smooth, creamy consistency, -and pat into balls the size of a Seville orange. - - -CREAM CHEESE - - -In England there are three distinct manners of making cream cheese: - -1. Fresh milk strained and lightly drained. -2. Scalded cream dried and drained dry, like Devonshire. -3. Rennet curd ripened, with thin, edible rind, or none, packaged -in small blocks or miniature bricks by dairy companies, as -in the U.S. Philadelphia Cream cheese. - -American cream cheeses follow the English pattern, being named from -then: region or established brands owned by Breakstone, Borden, Kraft, -Shefford, etc. - -Cream cheese such as the first listed above is easier to make than -cottage cheese or any other. Technically, in fact, it is not a cheese -but the dried curd of milk and is often called virginal. Fresh milk is -simply strained through muslin in a perforated box through which the -whey and extra moisture drains away for three or four days, leaving a -residue as firm as fresh butter. - -In America, where we mix cream cheese with everything, a popular -assortment of twelve sold in New York bears these ingredients and -names: Chives, Cherry, Garden, Caviar, Lachs, Pimiento, Olive and -Pimiento, Pineapple, Relish, Scallion, Strawberry, and Triple Decker -of Relish, Pimiento and Cream in layers. - -In Italy there is Stracchino Cream, in Sweden Chantilly. Finally, to -come to France, la Foncee or Fromage de Pau, a cream also known around -the world as Creme d'Isigny, Double Creme, Fromage a la Creme de Gien, -Pots de Creme St. Gervais, etc. etc. - -The French go even farther by eating thick fresh cream with Chevretons -du Beaujolais and Fromage Blanc in the style that adds _a la creme_ to -their already glorified names. - -The English came along with Snow Cream Cheese that is more of a -dessert, similar to Italian Cream Cheese. - -We'd like to have a cheese ice cream to contrast with too sweet ones. -Attempts at this have been made, both here and in England; Scottish -Caledonian cream came closest. We have frozen cheese with fruit, to be -sure, but no true cheese ice cream as yet, though some cream cheeses -seem especially suitable. - - The farmer's daughter hath soft brown hair - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese) - And I met with a ballad I can't say where, - That wholly consisted of lines like these, - (Butter and eggs and a pound of cheese.) - -In this parody by Calverly, "The Farmer's Daughter," the ingredients -suggest cheese cake, dating back to 1381 In England. From that year -Kettner in his _Book of the Table_ quotes this recipe: - - Take cream of almonds or of cow milk and beat them well together; - and make small coffins (that is, cases of pastry), and do it (put - it) therein; and do (put) thereto sugar and good powders. Or take - good fat cheese and eggs and make them of divers colours, green, - red or yellow, and bake them or serve them forth. - -This primitive "receipt" grew up into Richmond maids of honor that -caused Kettner to wax poetic with: - - At Richmond we are permitted to touch with our lips a countless - number of these maids--light and airy as the "airy, fairy - Lilian." What more can the finest poetry achieve in quickening - the things of earth into tokens and foretastes of heaven, with - glimpses of higher life and ethereal worlds. - - -CHEESECAKES - - -_Coronation Cheese Cake_ - - -The _Oxford Dictionary_ defines cheese cake as a "tartlet filled with -sweet curds, etc." This shows that the cheese is the main thing, and -the and-so-forth just a matter of taste. We are delighted to record -that the Lord Mayor of London picked traditional cheese tarts, the -maids of honor mentioned earlier in this section, as the Coronation -dessert with which to regale the second Queen Elizabeth at the city -luncheon in Guildhall This is most fitting, since these tarts were -named after the maids of honor at the court of the first Queen -Elizabeth. The original recipe is said to have sold for a thousand -pounds. These Richmond maids of honor had the usual cheese cake -ingredients: butter and eggs and pounds of cheese, but what made the -subtle flavor: nutmeg, brandy, lemon, orange-flower water, or all -four? - -More than 2,000 years before this land of Coronation cheese cake, the -Greeks had a word for it--several in fact: Apician Cheese Cake, -Aristoxenean, and Philoxenean among them. Then the Romans took it over -and we read from an epistle of the period: - - Thirty times in this one year, Charinus, while you have been - arranging to make your will, have I sent you cheese cakes - dripping with Hyblaean Thyme. (Celestial honey, such as that of - Mount Hymettus we still get from Greece.) - -Plato mentioned cheese cake, and a town near Thebes was named for it -before Christ was born, at a time when cheese cakes were widely known -as "dainty food for mortal man." - -Today cheese cakes come in a half dozen popular styles, of which the -ones flavored with fresh pineapple are the most popular in New York. -But buyers delight in every sort, including the one hundred percent -American type called cheese pies. - -Indeed, there seems to be no dividing line between cheese cakes and -cheese pies. While most of them are sweet, some are made piquant with -pimientos and olives. We offer a favorite of ours made from -popcorn-style pot cheese put through a sieve: - - - Pineapple Cheese Cake - -2-1/2 pounds sieved pot cheese -1-inch piece vanilla bean -1/4 pound sweet butter, melted -1/2 small box graham crackers, crushed fine -4 eggs -2 cups sugar -1 small can crushed pineapple, drained -2 cups milk -1/3 cup flour - - In a big bowl mix everything except the graham crackers and - pineapple in the order given above. Butter a square Pyrex pan and - put in the graham-cracker dust to make a crust. Cover this evenly - with the pineapple and pour in the cheese-custard mixture. Bake I - hour in a "quiet" oven, as the English used to say for a moderate - one, and when done set aside for 12 hours before eating. - -Because of the time and labor involved maybe you had better buy your -cheese cakes, even though some of the truly fine ones cost a dime a -bite, especially the pedigreed Jewish-American ones in Manhattan. -Reuben's and Lindy's are two leaders at about five dollars a cake. -Some are fruited with cherries or strawberries. - - - Cheese Custard - -4 eggs, slightly beaten -1/2 teaspoon salt -1 cup milk -A dash of pepper or paprika -3 tablespoons melted butter -A few drops of onion juice, if desired -4 tablespoons grated Swiss (imported) - - Mix all together, set in molds in pan of hot water, and bake - until brown. - - - Open-faced Cheese Pie - -3 eggs -1 cup sugar -2 pounds soft smearcase - - Whip everything together and fill two pie crusts. Bake without - any upper crust. - - -The Apple-pie Affinity - -Hot apple pie was always accompanied with cheese in New England, even -as every slice of apple pie in Wisconsin has cheese for a sidekick, -according to law. Pioneer hot pies were baked in brick ovens and -flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon and rose geranium. The cheese was -Cheddar, but today all sorts of pie and cheese combinations are -common, such as banana pie and Gorgonzola, mince with Danish Blue, -pumpkin with cream cheese, peach pie with Hable, and even a green -dusting of Sapsago over raisin pie. - -Apple pie _au gratin_, thickly grated over with Parmesan, Caciocavallo -or Sapsago, is something special when served with black coffee. Cider, -too, or applejack, is a natural accompaniment to any dessert of apple -with its cheese. - - - Apple Pie Adorned - - Apple pie is adorned with cream and cheese by pressing cream - cheese through a ricer and folding in plenty of double cream - beaten thick and salted a little. Put the mixture in a pastry - tube and decorate top of pie in fanciful fashion. - - - Apple Pie a la Cheese - - Lay a slice of melting cheese on top of apple (or any fruit or - berry) pie, and melt under broiler 2 to 3 minutes. - - - Cheese-crusty Apple Pie - - In making an apple pie, roll out the top crust and sprinkle with - sharp Cheddar, grated, dot with butter and bake golden-brown. - - - Flan au Fromage - - To make this Franche-Comte tart of crisp paste, simply mix - coarsely grated Gruyere with beaten egg, fill the tart cases and - bake. - - For any cheese pastry or fruit and custard pie crusts, work in - tasty shredded sharp Cheddar in the ratio of 1 to 4 parts of - flour. - - - Christmas Cake Sandwiches - - A traditional Christmas carol begs for: - - A little bit of spice cake - A little bit of cheese, - A glass of cold water, - A penny, if you please. - - For a festive handout cut the spice cake or fruit cake in slices - and sandwich them with slices of tasty cheese between. - - To maintain traditional Christmas cheer for the elders, serve - apple pie with cheese and applejack. - - - Angelic Camembert - -1 ripe Camembert, imported -1 cup Anjou dry white wine -1/2 pound sweet butter, softened -2 tablespoons finely grated toast crumbs - - Lightly scrape all crusty skin from the Camembert and when its - creamy interior stands revealed put it in a small, round covered - dish, pour in the wine, cover tightly so no bouquet or aroma can - possibly escape, and let stand overnight. - - When ready to serve drain off and discard any wine left, dry the - cheese and mash with the sweet butter into an angelic paste. - Reshape in original Camembert form, dust thickly with the crumbs - and there you are. - -Such a delicate dessert is a favorite with the ladies, since some of -them find a prime Camembert a bit too strong if taken straight. - -Although A. W. Fulton's observation in _For Men Only_ is going out of -date, it is none the less amusing: - - In the course of a somewhat varied career I have only met one - woman who appreciated cheese. This quality in her seemed to me so - deserving of reward that I did not hesitate to acquire her hand - in marriage. - -Another writer has said that "only gourmets among women seem to like -cheese, except farm women and foreigners." The association between -gourmets and farm women is borne out by the following urgent plea from -early Italian landowners: - - _Ai contadini non far sapere - Quanta e buono it cacio con le pere_. - Don't let the peasants know - How good are cheese and pears. - -Having found out for ourselves, we suggest a golden slice of Taleggio, -Stracchino, or pale gold Bel Paese to polish off a good dinner, with a -juicy Lombardy pear or its American equivalent, a Bartlett, let us -say. - -This celestial association of cheese and pears is further accented by -the French: - - _Entre la poire et le fromage_ - Between the pear and the cheese. - -This places the cheese after the fruit, as the last course, in -accordance with early English usage set down by John Clarke in his -_Paroemiologia_: - - After cheese comes nothing. - -But in his _Epigrams_ Ben Jonson serves them together. - - Digestive cheese, and fruit there sure will be. - -That brings us back to cheese and pippins: - - I will make an end of my dinner; there's - pippins and cheese to come. - - Shakespeare's _Merry Wives of Windsor_ - -When should the cheese be served? In England it is served before or -after the fruit, with or without the port. - -Following _The Book of Keruynge_ in modern spelling we note when it -was published in 1431 the proper thing "after meat" was "pears, nuts, -strawberries, whortleberries (American huckleberries) and hard -cheese." In modern practice we serve some suitable cheese like -Camembert directly on slices of apple and pears, Gorgonzola on sliced -banana, Hable spread on pineapple and a cheese dessert tray to match -the Lazy Lou, with everything crunchy down to Crackerjacks. Good, too, -are figs, both fresh and preserved, stuffed with cream cheese, -kumquats, avocados, fruity dunking mixtures of Pineapple cheese, -served in the scooped-out casque of the cheese itself, and apple or -pear and Provolone creamed and put back in the rind it came in. Pots -of liquored and wined cheeses, no end, those of your own making being -the best. - - - Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola - -1/2 pound mellow Roquefort -1/4 pound sweet butter, softened -A dash cayenne -3/4 cup champagne - - With a silver fork mix cheese and butter to a smooth paste, - moistening with champagne as you go along, using a little more or - less champagne according to consistency desired. Serve with the - demitasse and cognac, offering, besides crackers, gilt - gingerbread in the style of Holland Dutch cheese tasters, or just - plain bread. - -After dinner cheeses suggested by Phil Alpert are: - -FROM FRANCE: Port-Salut, Roblochon, Coulommiers, Camembert, Brie, -Roquefort, Calvados (try it with a spot of Calvados, apple brandy) - -FROM THE U.S.: Liederkranz, Blue, Cheddar - -FROM SWEDEN: Hable Creme Chantilly - -FROM ITALY: Taleggio, Gorgonzola, Provolone, Bel Paese - -FROM HUNGARY: Kascaval - -FROM SWITZERLAND: Swiss Gruyere - -FROM GERMANY: Kuemmelkaese - -FROM NORWAY: Gjetost, Bondost - -FROM HOLLAND: Edam, Gouda - -FROM ENGLAND: Stilton - -FROM POLAND: Warshawski Syr - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Nine_ - -Au Gratin, Soups, Salads and Sauces - - -He who says _au gratin_ says Parmesan. Thomas Gray, the English poet, -saluted it two centuries ago with: - - Parma, the happy country where huge cheeses grow. - -On September 4, 1666, Pepys recorded the burying of his pet Parmesan, -"as well as my wine and some other things," in a pit in Sir W. -Batten's garden. And on the selfsame fourth of September, more than a -century later, in 1784, Woodforde in his _Diary of a Country Parson_ -wrote: - - I sent Mr. Custance about 3 doz. more of apricots, and he sent me - back another large piece of fine Parmesan cheese. It was very - kind of him. - -The second most popular cheese for _au gratin_ is Italian Romano, and, -for an entirely different flavor, Swiss Sapsago. The French, who gave -us this cookery term, use it in its original meaning for any dish with -a browned topping, usually of bread crumbs, or crumbs and cheese. In -America we think of _au gratin_ as grated cheese only, although -Webster says, "with a browned covering, often mixed with butter or -cheese; as, potatoes _au gratin_." So let us begin with that. - - - Potatoes au Gratin - -2 cups diced cooked potatoes -2 tablespoons grated onion -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -2 tablespoons butter -1/2 cup milk -1 egg -Salt -Pepper -More grated cheese for covering - - In a buttered baking dish put a layer of diced potatoes, sprinkle - with onion and bits of butter. Next, scatter on a thin layer of - cheese and alternate with potatoes, onions and butter. Stir milk, - egg, salt and pepper together and pour it on the mixture. Top - everything with plenty of grated cheese to make it authentically - American _au gratin_. Bake until firm in moderate oven, about 1/2 - hour. - - - Eggs au Gratin - - Make a white sauce flavored with minced onion to pour over any - desired number of eggs broken into a buttered baking dish. Begin - by using half of the sauce and sprinkling on a lot of grated - cheese. After the eggs are in, pour on the rest of the sauce, - cover it with grated cheese and bread crumbs, drop in bits of - butter, and cook until brown in oven (or about 12 minutes). - - - Tomatoes au Gratin - - Cover bottom of shallow baking pan with slices of tomato and - sprinkle liberally with bread crumbs and grated cheese, season - with salt, pepper and dots of butter, add another layer of - tomato slices, season as before and continue this, alternating - with cheese, until pan is full. Add a generous topping of crumbs, - cheese and butter. Bake 50 minutes in moderate oven. - - - Onion Soup au Gratin - -4 or 5 onions, sliced -4 or 5 tablespoons butter -1 quart stock or canned consomme -1 quart bouillon made from dissolving 4 or 5 cubes -Rounds of toasted French bread -1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese - - Saute onions in butter in a roomy saucepan until light golden, - and pour the stock over. When heated put in a larger casserole, - add the bouillon, season to taste and heat to boiling point. Let - simmer 15 minutes and serve in deep well-heated soup plates, the - bottoms covered with rounds of toasted French bread which have - been heaped with freshly grated Parmesan and browned under the - broiler. More cheese is served for guests to sprinkle on as - desired. - -At gala parties, where wine flows, a couple of glasses of champagne -are often added to the bouillon. - -In the famed onion soup _au gratin_ at Les Halles in Paris, grated -Gruyere is used in place of Parmesan. They are interchangeable in this -recipe. - - -AMERICAN CHEESE SOUPS - - In this era of fine canned soups a quick cheese soup is made by - heating cream of tomato soup, ready made, and adding finely - grated Swiss or Parmesan to taste. French bread toasted and - topped with more cheese and broiled golden makes the best base to - pour this over, as is done with the French onion soup above. - - The same cheese toasts are the basis of a simple milk-cheese - soup, with heated milk poured over and a seasoning of salt, - pepper, chopped chives, or a dash of nutmeg. - - - Chicken Cheese Soup - - Heat together 1 cup milk, 1 cup water in which 2 chicken bouillon - cubes have been dissolved, and 1 can of condensed cream of - chicken soup. Stir in 1/4 cup grated American Cheddar cheese and - season with salt, pepper, and plenty of paprika until cheese - melts. - - Other popular American recipes simply add grated cheese to lima - bean or split bean soup, peanut butter soup, or plain cheese soup - with rice. - -Imported French _marmites_ are _de rigueur_ for a real onion soup _au -gratin_, and an imported Parmesan grinder might be used for freshly -ground cheese. In preparing, it is well to remember that they are -basically only melted cheese, melted from the top down. - - -CHEESE SALADS - - When a Frenchman reaches the salad he is resting and in no hurry. - He eats the salad to prepare himself for the cheese. - - Henri Charpentier, _Life & la Henri_, - - - Green Cheese Salad Julienne - - Take endive, water cress and as many different kinds of crisp - lettuce as you can find and mix well with Provolone cheese cut in - thin julienne strips and marinated 3 to 4 hours in French - dressing. Crumble over the salad some Blue cheese and toss - everything thoroughly, with plenty of French dressing. - - - American Cheese Salad - - Slice a sweet ripe pineapple thin and sprinkle with shredded - American Cheddar. Serve on lettuce dipped in French dressing. - - - Cheese and Nut Salad - - Mix American Cheddar with an equal amount of nut meats and enough - mayonnaise to make a paste. Roll these in little balls and serve - with fruit salads, dusting lightly with finely grated Sapsago. - - - Brie or Camembert Salad - - Fill ripe pear-or peach-halves with creamy imported Brie or - Camembert, sprinkle with honey, serve on lettuce drenched with - French dressing and scatter shredded almonds over. (Cream cheese - will do in a pinch. If the Camembert isn't creamy enough, mash it - with some sweet cream.) - - - Three-in-One Mold - -3/4 cup cream cheese -1/2 cup grated American Cheddar cheese -1/2 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled -2 tablespoons gelatin, dissolved and stirred into -1/2 cup boiling water -Juice of 1 lemon -Salt -Pepper -2 cups cream, beaten stiff -1/2 cup minced chives - - Mash the cheeses together, season gelatin liquid with lemon, salt - and pepper and stir into cheese with the whipped cream. Add - chives last Put in ring mold or any mold you fancy, chill well - and slice at table to serve on lettuce with a little mayonnaise, - or plain. - - - Swiss Cheese Salad - - Dice 1/2 pound of cheese into 1/2-inch cubes. Slice one onion - very thin. Mix well in a soup plate. Dash with German mustard, - olive oil, wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce. Salt lightly and - grind in plenty of black pepper. Then stir, preferably with a - wooden spoon so you won't mash the cheese, until every hole is - drenched with the dressing. - - - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad - -Often Emmentaler is cubed in a salad for breakfast, relished specially -by males on the morning after. We quote the original recipe brought -over by Rosie from the Swiss Tyrol to thrill the writers' and artists' -colony of Ridgefield, New Jersey, in her brother Emil's White House -Inn: - - First Rosie cut a thick slice of prime imported Emmentaler into - half-inch cubes. Then she mixed imported French olive oil, German - mustard and Swiss white wine vinegar with salt and freshly ground - pepper in a deep soup plate, sprinkled on a few drops of pepper - sauce scattered in the chunks of Schweizer and stirred the cubes - with a light hand, using a wooden fork and spoon to prevent - bruising. - - The salad was ready to eat only when each and every tiny, shiny - cell of the Swiss from the homeland had been washed, oiled and - polished with the soothing mixture. - - "Drink down the juice, too, when you have finished mine Breakfast - Cheese Salad," Rosie advised the customers. "It is the best cure - in the world for the worst hangover." - - - Gorgonzola and Banana Salad - - Slice bananas lengthwise, as for a banana split. Sprinkle with - lemon juice and spread with creamy Gorgonzola. Sluice with French - dressing made with lemon juice in place of vinegar, to help bring - out the natural banana flavor of ripe Gorgonzola. - - - Cheese and Pea Salad - - Cube 1/2 pound of American Cheddar and mix with a can of peas, 1 - cup of diced celery, 1 cup of mayonnaise, 1/2 cup of sour cream, - and 2 tablespoons each of minced pimientos and sweet pickles. - Serve in lettuce cups with a sprinkling of parsley and chopped - radishes. - - - Apple and Cheese Salad - -1/2 cup cream cheese -1 cup chopped pecans -Salt and pepper -Apples, sliced 1/2-inch thick -Lettuce leaves -Creamy salad dressing - - Make tiny seasoned cheese balls, center on the apple slices - standing on lettuce leaves, and sluice with creamy salad - dressing. - - - Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing - - No cheese sauce is easier to make than the American favorite of - Roquefort cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with French - dressing. It is often made in a pint Mason jar and kept in the - refrigerator to shake up on occasion and toss over lettuce or - other salads. - -Unfortunately, even when the Roquefort is the French import, complete -with the picture of the sheep in red, and _garanti veritable_, the -dressing is often ruined by bad vinegar and cottonseed oil (of all -things). When bottled to sell in stores, all sorts of extraneous -spice, oils and mustard flour are used where nothing more is necessary -than the manipulation of a fork, fine olive oil and good -vinegar--white wine, tarragon or malt. Some ardent amateurs must have -their splash of Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice with salt and -pepper. This Roquefort dressing is good on all green salads, but on -endive it's something special. - - - SAUCE MORNAY - -Sauce Mornay has been hailed internationally as "the greatest culinary -achievement in cheese." - - Nothing is simpler to make. All you do is prepare a white sauce - (the French Sauce Bechamel) and add grated Parmesan to your - liking, stirring it in until melted and the sauce is creamy. This - can be snapped up with cayenne or minced parsley, and when used - with fish a little of the cooking broth is added. - - - PLAIN CHEESE SAUCE - -1 part of any grated cheese to 4 parts of white sauce - - This is a mild sauce that is nice with creamed or hard-cooked - eggs. When the cheese content is doubled, 2 parts of cheese to 4 - of white sauce, it is delicious on boiled cauliflower, baked - potatoes, macaroni and crackers soaked in milk. - - The sauce may be made richer by mixing melted butter with the - flour in making the white sauce, or by beating egg yolk in with - the cheese. - -From thin to medium to thick it serves divers purposes: - -_Thin_: it may be used instead of milk to make a tasty milk toast, -sometimes spiced with curry. - -_Medium_: for baking by pouring over crackers soaked in milk. - -_Thick_: serves as a sort of Welsh Rabbit when poured generously over -bread toasted on one side only, with the untoasted side up, to let the -sauce sink in. - - - PARSLEYED CHEESE SAUCE - - This makes a mild, pleasantly pungent sauce, to enliven the - cabbage family--hot cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage and Brussels - sprouts. Croutons help when sprinkled over. - - -CORNUCOPIA OF CHEESE RECIPES - - -Since this is the Complete Book of Cheese we will fill a bounteous -cornucopia here with more or less essential, if not indispensable, -recipes and dishes not so easy to classify, or overlooked or crowded -out of the main sections devoted to the classic Fondues, Rabbits, -Souffles, etc. - - -_Stuffed Celery, Endive, Anise and Other Suitable Stalks_ - -Use any soft cheese you like, or firm cheese softened by pressing -through a sieve; at room temperature, of course, with any seasoning or -relish. - - SUGGESTIONS: - - Cream cheese and chopped chives, pimientos, olives, or all three, - with or without a touch of Worcestershire. - - Cottage cheese and piccalilli or chili sauce. - - Sharp Cheddar mixed with mayonnaise, mustard, cream, minced - capers, pickles, or minced ham. - - Roquefort and other Blues are excellent fillings for your - favorite vegetable stalk, or scooped-out dill pickle. This last - is specially nice when filled with snappy cheese creamed with - sweet butter. - - All canape butters are ideally suited to stuffing stalks. - Pineapple cheese, especially that part close to the - pineapple-flavored rind, is perfect when creamed. - - A masterpiece in the line of filled stalks: Cut the leafy tops - off an entire head of celery, endive, anise or anything similarly - suitable. Wash and separate stalks, but keep them in order, to - reassemble in the head after each is stuffed with a different - mixture, using any of the above, or a tangy mix of your own - concoction. - - After all stalks are filled, beginning with the baby center ones, - press them together in the form of the original head, tie tight, - and chill. When ready, slice in rolls about 8-inch thick and - arrange as a salad on a bed of water cress or lettuce, moistened - with French dressing. - - - Cold Dunking - - Besides hot dunking in Swiss Fondue, cold dunking may be had by - moistening plenty of cream cheese with cream or lemon in a - dunking bowl. When the cheese is sufficiently liquefied, it is - liberally seasoned with chopped parsley, chives, onions, pimiento - and/or other relish. Then a couple of tins of anchovies are - macerated and stirred in, oil and all. - - - Cheese Charlotte - - Line a baking dish from bottom to top with decrusted slices of - bread dipped in milk. Cream 1 tablespoon of sweet butter with 2 - eggs and season before stirring in 2 cups of grated cheese. Bake - until golden brown in slow oven. - - - Straws - - Roll pastry dough thin and cover with grated Cheddar, fold and - roll at least twice more, sprinkling with cheese each time. Chill - dough in refrigerator and cut in straw-size strips. Stiffly salt - a beaten egg yolk and glaze with that to give a salty taste. Bake - for several minutes until crisp. - - - Supa Shetgia[B] - -[Footnote B: (from _Cheese Cookery_, by Helmut Ripperger)] - - _This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known - in this country. One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one - has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how - perfectly it gives that extra something. The recipe, as given, - is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned - tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased_. - - Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup - plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss - cheese. Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over - it some boiling milk. Cover the plate and let it stand for - several minutes. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Serve - topped with browned, hot butter. Use whole nutmeg and grate it - freshly. - - -WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE - - -Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from -soups to spaghetti--and indeed any vegetable--that a shaker of grated -Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, -or is served freshly grated on a side dish. Thus any Italian soup -might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great -minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient -along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, -olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth. - -Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the -Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it's served up as a -separate tidbit with the meats. - -Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as -the French are wont to use more wine in cooking. - - - Pfeffernuesse and Caraway - -The gingery little "pepper nuts," _pfeffernuesse_, imported from -Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best -accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese. For contrast try a dish -of caraway. - - - Diablotins - -Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated -cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution. - - -CHEESE OMELETS - - - Cheddar Omelet - - Make a plain omelet your own way. When the mixture has just begun - to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. - (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet - (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. - (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be - called a Wild Omelet. - Cook as usual. Fold and serve. - - - Parmesan Omelet (mild) - - Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in - place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar. - - - Parmesan Omelet (full flavored) - - As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows: - Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the - beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the - omelet begins to set. - - - A Meal-in-One Omelet - - Fry 1/2 dozen bacon slices crisp and keep hot while frying a cup - of diced, boiled potatoes in the bacon fat, to equal crispness. - Meanwhile make your omelet mixture of 3 eggs, beaten, and 1-1/2 - tablespoons of shredded Emmentaler (or domestic Swiss) with 1 - tablespoon of chopped chives and salt and pepper to taste. - - - Tomato and - - Make plain omelet, cover with thin rounds of fresh tomato and - dust well with any grated cheese you like. Put under broiler - until cheese melts to a golden brown. - - - Omelet with Cheese Sauce - - Make a plain French, fluffy or puffy omelet and when finished, - cover with a hot, seasoned, reinforced white sauce in which 1/4 - pound of shredded cheese has been melted, and mixed well with 1/2 - cup cooked, diced celery and 1 tablespoon of pimiento, minced. - -The French use grated Gruyere for this with all sorts of sauces, such -as the _Savoyar de Savoie_, with potatoes, chervil, tarragon and -cream. A delicious appearance and added flavor can be had by browning -with a salamander. - - - Spanish Flan--Quesillo - -FOR THE CARAMEL: -1/2 cup sugar -4 tablespoons water - -FOR THE FLAN: -4 eggs, beaten separately -2 cups hot milk -1/2 cup sugar -Salt - - Brown sugar and mix with water to make the caramel. Pour it into - a baking mold. - - Make Flan by mixing together all the ingredients. Add to - carameled mold and bake in pan of water in moderate oven about - 3/4 hour. - - - Italian Fritto Misto - - The distinctive Italian Mixed Fry, Fritto Misto, is made with - whatever fish, sweetbreads, brains, kidneys, or tidbits of meat - are at hand, say a half dozen different cubes of meat and - giblets, with as many hearts of artichokes, _finocchi_, tomato, - and different vegetables as you can find, but always with a hunk - of melting cheese, to fork out in golden threads with each - mouthful of the mixture. - - - Polish Piroghs (a pocketful of cheese) - - Make noodle dough with 2 eggs and 2 cups of flour, roll out very - thin and cut in 2-inch squares. - - Cream a cupful of cottage cheese with a tablespoon of melted - butter, flavor with cinnamon and toss in a handful of seedless - currents. - - Fill pastry squares with this and pinch edges tight together to - make little pockets. - - Drop into a lot of fast-boiling water, lightly salted, and boil - steadily 30 minutes, lowering the heat so the pockets won't burst - open. - - Drain and serve on a piping hot platter with melted butter and a - sprinkling of bread crumbs. - - This is a cross between ravioli and blintzes. - - - Cheesed Mashed Potatoes - - Whip into a steaming hot dish of creamily mashed potatoes some - old Cheddar with melted butter and a crumbling of crisp, cooked - bacon. - - -If there's a chafing dish handy, a first-rate nightcap can be made via a - - Sauteed Swiss Sandwich - - Tuck a slice of Swiss cheese between two pieces of thickly - buttered bread, trim crusts, cut sandwich in two, surround it - with one well-beaten egg, slide it into sizzling butter and fry - on both sides. A chef at the New York Athletic Club once improved - on this by first sandwiching the Swiss between a slice of ham and - a slice of chicken breast, then beating up a brace of eggs with a - jigger of heavy sweet cream and soaking his sandwich in this - until it sopped up every drop. A final frying in sweet butter - made strong men cry for it. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Ten_ - -Appetizers, Crackers, Sandwiches, Savories, -Snacks, Spreads and Toasts - - -In America cheese got its start in country stores in our -cracker-barrel days when every man felt free to saunter in, pick up -the cheese knife and cut himself a wedge from the big-bellied rattrap -cheese standing under its glass bell or wire mesh hood that kept the -flies off but not the free-lunchers. Cheese by itself being none too -palatable, the taster would saunter over to the cracker barrel, shoo -the cat off and help himself to the old-time crackers that can't be -beat today. - -At that time Wisconsin still belonged to the Indians and Vermont was -our leading cheese state, with its Sage and Cheddar and Vermont -Country Store Crackers, as Vrest Orton of Weston Vermont, calls them. -When Orton heard we were writing this book, he sent samples from the -store his father started in 1897 which is still going strong. Together -with the Vermont Good Old-fashioned Natural Cheese and the Sage came a -handy handmade Cracker Basket, all wicker, ten crackers long and just -one double cracker wide. A snug little casket for those puffy, -old-time, two-in-one soda biscuits that have no salt to spoil the -taste of the accompanying cheese. Each does double duty because it's -made to split in the middle, so you can try one kind of cheese on one -half and another on t'other, or sandwich them between. - -Some Pied Piper took the country cheese and crackers to the corner -saloon and led a free-lunch procession that never faltered till -Prohibition came. The same old store cheese was soon pepped up as -saloon cheese with a saucer of caraway seeds, bowls of pickles, -peppers, pickled peppers and rye bread with plenty of mustard, -pretzels or cheese straws, smearcase and schwarzbrot. Beer and cheese -forever together, as in the free-lunch ditty of that great day: - - I am an Irish hunter; - I am, I ain't. - I do not hunt for deer - But beer. - Oh, Otto, wring the bar rag. - - I do not hunt for fleas - But cheese. - Oh, Adolph, bring the free lunch. - -It was there and then that cheese came of age from coast to coast. In -every bar there was a choice of Swiss, Cottage, Limburger--manly -cheeses, walkie-talkie oldsters that could sit up and beg, golden -yellow, tangy mellow, always cut in cubes. Cheese takes the cube form -as naturally as eggs take the oval and honeycombs the hexagon. - -On the more elegant handout buffets, besides the shapely cubes, free -Welsh Rabbit started at four every afternoon, to lead the tired -businessman in by the nose; or a smear of Canadian Snappy out of a -pure white porcelain pot in the classy places, on a Bent's water -biscuit. - - -SANDWICHES AND SAVORY SNACKS - -Next to nibbling cheese with crackers and appetizers, of which there -is no end in sight, cheese sandwiches help us consume most of our -country's enormous output of Brick, Cheddar and Swiss. To attempt to -classify and describe all of these would be impossible, so we will -content ourselves by picking a few of the cold and hot, the plain and -the fancy, the familiar and the exotic. Let's use the alphabet to sum -up the situation. - - -A Alpine Club Sandwich - - Spread toasts with mayonnaise and fill with a thick slice of - imported Emmentaler, well-mustarded and seasoned, and the usual - club-sandwich toppings of thin slices of chicken or turkey, - tomato, bacon and a lettuce leaf. - - -B Boston Beany, Open-face - - Lightly butter a slice of Boston brown bread, cover it generously - with hot baked beans and a thick layer of shredded Cheddar. Top - with bacon and put under a slow broiler until cheese melts and - the bacon crisps. - - -C Cheeseburgers - - Pat out some small seasoned hamburgers exceedingly thin and, - using them instead of slices of bread, sandwich in a nice slice - of American Cheddar well covered with mustard. Crimp edges of the - hamburgers all around to hold in the cheese when it melts and - begins to run. Toast under a brisk boiler and serve on soft, - toasted sandwich buns. - - -D Deviled Rye - - Butter flat Swedish rye bread and heat quickly in hot oven. Cool - until crisp again. Then spread thickly with cream cheese, - bedeviled with catsup, paprika or pimiento. - - -E Egg, Open-faced - - Saute minced small onion and small green pepper in 2 tablespoons - of butter and make a sauce by cooking with a cup of canned - tomatoes. Season and reduce to about half. Fry 4 eggs and put one - in the center of each of 4 pieces of hot toast spread with the - red sauce. Sprinkle each generously with grated Cheddar, broil - until melted and serve with crisp bacon. - - -F French-fried Swiss - - Simply make a sandwich with a noble slice of imported Gruyere, - soak it in beaten egg and milk and fry slowly till cheese melts - and the sandwich is nicely browned. This is a specialty of - Franche-Comte. - - -G Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar - - Cut crusts from 2 slices of white bread and butter them on both - sides. Make a sandwich of these with 1 slice cooked chicken, 1/2 - slice sharp Cheddar cheese, and a sprinkling of minced ham. - Fasten tight with toothpicks, cut in half and dip thoroughly in a - mixture of egg and milk. Grill golden on both sides and serve - with lengthwise slices of dill pickle. - - -H He-man Sandwich, Open-faced - - Butter a thick slice of dark rye bread, cover with a layer of - mashed cold baked beans and a slice of ham, then one of Swiss - cheese and a wheel of Bermuda onion topped with mustard and a - sowing of capers. - - -I International Sandwich - - Split English muffins and toast on the hard outsides, cover soft, - untoasted insides with Swiss cheese, spread lightly with mustard, - top that with a wheel of Bermuda onion and 1 or 2 slices of - Italian-type tomato. Season with cayenne and salt, dot with - butter, cover with Brazil nuts and brown under the broiler. - - -J Jurassiennes, or Croutes Comtoises - - Soak slices of stale buns in milk, cover with a mixture of onion - browned in chopped lean bacon and mixed with grated Gruyere. - Simmer until cheese melts, and serve. - - -K Kuemmelkaese - - If you like caraway flavor this is your sandwich: On - well-buttered but lightly mustarded rye, lay a thickish slab of - Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese, which translates caraway cheese. For good - measure sprinkle caraway seeds on top, or serve them in a saucer - on the side. Then dash on a splash of kuemmel, the caraway liqueur - that's best when imported. - - -L Limburger Onion or Limburger Catsup - - Marinate slices of Bermuda onion in a peppery French dressing for - 1/2 hour. Then butter slices of rye, spread well with soft - Limburger, top with onion and you will have something - super-duper--if you like Limburger. - - When catsup is substituted for marinated onion the sandwich has - quite another character and flavor, so true Limburger addicts - make one of each and take alternate bites for the thrill of - contrast. - - -M Meringue, Open-faced (from the Browns' _10,000 Snacks_) - - Allow 1 egg and 4 tablespoons of grated cheese to 1 slice of - bread. Toast bread on one side only, spread butter on untoasted - side, put 2 tablespoons grated cheese over butter, and the yolk - of an egg in the center. Beat egg white stiff with a few grains - of salt and pile lightly on top. Sprinkle the other 2 tablespoons - of grated cheese over that and bake in moderate oven until the - egg white is firm and the cheese has melted to a golden-brown. - - -N Neufchatel and Honey - - We know no sandwich more ethereal than one made with thin, - decrusted, white bread, spread with sweet butter, then with - Neufchatel topped with some fine honey--Mount Hymettus, if - possible. - - Any creamy Petit Suisse will do as well as the Neufchatel, but - nothing will take the place of the honey to make this heavenly - sandwich that must have been the original ambrosia. - - -O Oskar's Ham-Cam - - Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 - superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, - perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, - open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost - any one-way slice you desire. He uses as many contrasting kinds - of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh - and whipped. The Ham-Cam base involves "a juicy, tender slice of - freshly boiled, mild-cured ham" with imported Camembert spread on - the ham as thick as velvet. - - The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as "goose liver - paste and Madeira wine jelly," "fried calves' kidney and - _remoulade_," "Bombay curry salad," "bird's liver and fried egg," - "a slice of red roast beef" and more of that red Madeira jelly, - with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to - Camembert on ham. - - -P Pickled Camembert - - Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe - imported Camembert, when in season (which isn't summer). Make a - mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and - spread it on. Top this with a thin slice of white bread for - pleasing contrast with the black. - - -Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich - - On generous rounds of French "flute" or other crunchy, crusty - white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese - made of sheep's milk "in the mountains." This last translates - back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the - world--on a par with fine Greek Feta. Bead the open-faced creamy - cheese lightly with imported capers, and you'll say it's - scrumptious. - - -R Roquefort Nut - - Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine - Roquefort cheese. Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian - paprika. Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes. Finish it off - with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof. - - -S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich - - Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or - a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with - sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese. - - Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America. In New - York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, - is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon. Since this king - of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, - there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as - above. - - Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with - cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, - while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of - this world. We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong - China tea. - - -T Tangy Sandwich - - On buttered rye spread cream cheese, and on this bed lay thinly - sliced dried beef. In place of mustard dot the beef with - horseradish and pearl onions or those reliable old chopped - chives. And by the way, if you must use mustard on every cheese - sandwich, try different kinds for a change: sharp English freshly - mixed by your own hand out of the tin of powder, or Dijon for a - French touch. - - -U Unusual Sandwich--of Flowers, Hay and Clover - - On a sweet-buttered slice of French white bread lay a layer of - equally sweet English Flower cheese (made with petals of rose, - marigold, violet, etc.) and top that with French Fromage de foin. - This French hay cheese gets its name from being ripened on hay - and holds its new-mown scent. Sprinkle on a few imported capers - (the smaller they are, the better), with a little of the luscious - juice, and dust lightly with Sapsago. - - -V Vegetarian Sandwich - - Roll your own of alternate leaves of lettuce, slices of store - cheese, avocados, cream cheese sprinkled heavily with chopped - chives, and anything else in the Vegetable or Caseous Kingdoms - that suits your fancy. - - -W Witch's Sandwich - - Butter 2 slices of sandwich bread, cover one with a thin slice of - imported Emmentaler, dash with cayenne and a drop or two of - tabasco. Slap on a sizzling hot slice of grilled ham and press it - together with the cheese between the two bread slices, put in a - hot oven and serve piping hot with a handful of - "moonstones"--those outsize pearl onions. - - -X Xochomilco Sandwich - - In spite of the "milco" in Xochomilco, there isn't a drop to be - had that's native to the festive, floating gardens near Mexico - City. For there, instead of the cow, a sort of century plant - gives milky white _pulque_, the fermented juice of this - cactuslike desert plant. With this goes a vegetable cheese curded - by its own vegetable rennet. It's called tuna cheese, made from - the milky juice of the prickly pear that grows on yet another - cactuslike plant of the dry lands. This tuna cheese sometimes - teams up in arid lands with the juicy thick cactus leaf sliced - into a tortilla sandwich. The milky _pulque_ of Xochomilco goes - as well with it as beer with a Swiss cheese sandwich. - - - Y Yolk Picnic Sandwich - - Hard-cooked egg yolk worked into a yellow paste with cream - cheese, mustard, olive oil, lemon juice, celery salt and a touch - of tabasco, spread on thick slices of whole wheat bread. - - -Z Zebra - - Take a tip from Oskar over in Copenhagen and design your own - Zebra sandwich as decoratively as one of those oft-photoed skins - in El Morocco. Just alternate stripes of black bread with various - white cheeses in between, to follow, the black and white zebra - pattern. - -For good measure we will toss in a couple of toasted cheese -sandwiches. - - - Toasted Cheese Sandwich - - Butter both sides of 2 thick slices of white bread and sandwich - between them a seasoned mixture of shredded sharp cheese, egg - yolk, mustard and chopped chives, together with stiffly beaten - egg white folded in last to make a light filling. Fry the - buttered sandwich in more butter until well melted and nicely - gilded. - -This toasted cheeser is so good it's positively sinful. The French, -who outdo us in both cooking and sin, make one of their own in the -form of fried fingers of stale bread doused in an 'arf and 'arf Welsh -Rabbit and Fondue melting of Gruyere, that serves as a liaison to -further sandwich the two. - -Garlic is often used in place of chopped chives, and in contrast to -this wild one there's a mild one made of Dutch cream cheese by the -equally Dutch Pennsylvanians. - -England, of course, together with Wales, holds all-time honors with -such celebrated regional "toasting cheeses" as Devonshire and Dunlop. -Even British Newfoundland is known for its simple version, that's -quite as pleasing as its rich Prince Edward Island Oyster Stew. - - - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese Sandwich - -1 pound grated Cheddar -1 egg, well beaten -1/2 cup milk -1 tablespoon butter - - Heat together and pour over well-buttered toast. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Eleven_ - -"Fit for Drink" - - - A country without a fit drink for cheese has no cheese fit for - drink. - - -Greece was the first country to prove its epicurean fitness, according -to the old saying above, for it had wine to tipple and sheep's milk -cheese to nibble. The classical Greek cheese has always been Feta, and -no doubt this was the kind that Circe combined most suitably with wine -to make a farewell drink for her lovers. She put further sweetness and -body into the stirrup cup by stirring honey and barley meal into it. -Today we might whip this up in an electric mixer to toast her memory. - -While a land flowing with milk and honey is the ideal of many, France, -Italy, Spain or Portugal, flowing with wine and honey, suit a lot of -gourmets better. Indeed, in such vinous-caseous places cheese is on -the house at all wine sales for prospective customers to snack upon -and thus bring out the full flavor of the cellared vintages. But -professional wine tasters are forbidden any cheese between sips. They -may clear their palates with plain bread, but nary a crumb of -Roquefort or cube of Gruyere in working hours, lest it give the wine a -spurious nobility. - -And, speaking of Roquefort, Romanee has the closest affinity for it. -Such affinities are also found in Pont l'Eveque and Beaujolais, Brie -and red champagne, Coulommiers and any good _vin rose_. Heavenly -marriages are made in Burgundy between red and white wines of both -Cotes, de Nuits and de Baune, and Burgundian cheeses such as Epoisses, -Soumaintarin and Saint-Florentin. Pommard and Port-Salut seem to be -made for each other, as do Chateau Margaux and Camembert. - -A great cheese for a great wine is the rule that brings together in -the neighboring provinces such notables as Sainte Maure, Valencay, -Vendome and the Loire wines--Vouvray, Saumur and Anjou. Gruyere mates -with Chablis, Camembert with St. Emilion; and any dry red wine, most -commonly claret, is a fit drink for the hundreds of other fine French -cheeses. - -Every country has such happy marriages, an Italian standard being -Provolone and Chianti. Then there is a most unusual pair, French -Neufchatel cheese and Swiss Neuchatel wine from just across the -border. Switzerland also has another cheese favorite at home--Trauben -(grape cheese), named from the Neuchatel wine in which it is aged. - -One kind of French Neufchatel cheese, Bondon, is also uniquely suited -to the company of any good wine because it is made in the exact shape -and size of a wine barrel bung. A similar relation is found in Brinzas -(or Brindzas) that are packed in miniature wine barrels, strongly -suggesting what should be drunk with such excellent cheeses: Hungarian -Tokay. Other foreign cheeses go to market wrapped in vine leaves. The -affinity has clearly been laid down in heaven. - -Only the English seem to have a _fortissimo_ taste in the go-with -wines, according to these matches registered by Andre Simon in _The -Art of Good Living:_ - -Red Cheshire with Light Tawny Port -White Cheshire with Oloroso Sherry -Blue Leicester with Old Vintage Port -Green Roquefort with New Vintage Port - -To these we might add brittle chips of Greek Casere with nips of -Amontillado, for an eloquent appetizer. - -The English also pour port into Stilton, and sundry other wines and -liquors into Cheddars and such. This doctoring leads to fraudulent -imitation, however, for either port or stout is put into counterfeit -Cheshire cheese to make up for the richness it lacks. - -While some combinations of cheeses and wines may turn out palatable, -we prefer taking ours straight. When something more fiery is needed we -can twirl the flecks of pure gold in a chalice of Eau de Vie de Danzig -and nibble on legitimate Danzig cheese unadulterated. _Goldwasser_, or -Eau de Vie, was a favorite liqueur of cheese-loving Franklin -Roosevelt, and we can be sure he took the two separately. - -Another perfect combination, if you can take it, is imported kuemmel -with any caraway-seeded cheese, or cream cheese with a handy saucer of -caraway seeds. In the section of France devoted to gin, the juniper -berries that flavor the drink also go into a local cheese, Fromage -Fort. This is further fortified with brandy, white wine and pepper. -One regional tipple with such brutally strong cheese is black coffee -laced with gin. - -French la Jonchee is another potted thriller with not only coffee and -rum mixed in during the making, but orange flower water, too. Then -there is la Petafina, made with brandy and absinthe; Hazebrook with -brandy alone; and la Cachat with white wine and brandy. - -In Italy white Gorgonzola is also put up in crocks with brandy. In -Oporto the sharp cheese of that name is enlivened by port, Cider and -the greatest of applejacks, Calvados, seem made to go the regional -Calvados cheese. This is also true of our native Jersey Lightning and -hard cider with their accompanying New York State cheese. In the Auge -Valley of France, farmers also drink homemade cider with their own -Augelot, a piquant kind of Pont l'Eveque. - -The English sip pear cider (perry) with almost any British cheese. -Milk would seem to be redundant, but Sage cheese and buttermilk do go -well together. - -Wine and cheese have other things in common. Some wines and some -cheeses are aged in caves, and there are vintage cheeses no less than -vintage wines, as is the case with Stilton. - - - - -[Illustration] - -_Chapter Twelve_ - -Lazy Lou - - -Once, so goes the sad story, there was a cheesemonger unworthy of his -heritage. He exported a shipload of inferior "Swiss" made somewhere -in the U.S.A. Bad to begin with, it had worsened on the voyage. -Rejected by the health authorities on the other side, it was shipped -back, reaching home in the unhappy condition known as "cracked." To -cut his losses the rascally cheesemonger had his cargo ground up and -its flavor disguised with hot peppers and chili sauce. Thus there -came into being the abortion known as the "cheese spread." - -The cheese spread or "food" and its cousin, the processed cheese, are -handy, cheap and nasty. They are available everywhere and some people -even like them. So any cheese book is bound to take formal notice of -their existence. I have done so--and now, an unfond farewell to them. - -My academic cheese education began at the University of Wisconsin in -1904. I grew up with our great Midwest industry; I have read with -profit hundreds of pamphlets put out by the learned Aggies of my Alma -Mater. Mostly they treat of honest, natural cheeses: the making, -keeping and enjoying of authentic Longhorn Cheddars, short Bricks and -naturalized Limburgers. - -At the School of Agriculture the students still, I am told, keep -their hand in by studying the classical layout on a cheese board. One -booklet recommends the following for freshman contemplation: - - CARAWAY BRICK SELECT BRICK EDAM - WISCONSIN SWISS LONGHORN AMERICAN SHEFFORD - -These six sturdy samples of Wisconsin's best will stimulate any -amount of classroom discussion. Does the Edam go better with -German-American black bread or with Swedish Ry-Krisp? To butter or -not to butter? And if to butter, with which cheese? Salt or sweet? -How close do we come to the excellence of the genuine Alpine Swiss? -Primary school stuff, but not unworthy of thought. - -Pass on down the years. You are now ready to graduate. Your cheese -board can stand a more sophisticated setup. Try two boards; play the -teams against each other. - - The All-American Champs - -NEW YORK COON PHILADELPHIA CREAM OHIO LIEDERKRANZ -VERMONT SAGE KENTUCKY TRAPPIST WISCONSIN LIMBURGER - CALIFORNIA JACK PINEAPPLE - MINNESOTA BLUE - BRICK - TILLAMOOK - - VS. - - The European Giants - -PORTUGUESE TRAZ- DUTCH GOUDA ITALIAN PARMESAN -OS-MONTES FRENCH ROQUEFORT SWISS EMMENTALER -YUGOSLAVIAN KACKAVALJ - ENGLISH STILTON DANISH BLUE -GERMAN MUeNSTER GREEK FETA - HABLE - -The postgraduate may play the game using as counters the great and -distinctive cheeses of more than fifty countries. Your Scandinavian -board alone, just to give an idea of the riches available, will shine -with blues, yellows, whites, smoky browns, and chocolates -representing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Iceland and Lapland. - -For the Britisher only blue-veined Stilton is worthy to crown the -banquet. The Frenchman defends Roquefort, the Dane his own regal -Blue; the Swiss sticks to Emmentaler before, during and after all -three meals. You may prefer to finish with a delicate Brie, a smoky -slice of Provolone, a bit of Baby Gouda, or some Liptauer Garniert, -about which more later. - -We load them all on Lazy Lou, Lazy Susan's big twin brother, a giant -roulette wheel of cheese, every number a winner. A second Lazy Lou -will bear the savories and go-withs. For these tidbits the English -have a divine genius; think of the deviled shrimps, smoked oysters, -herring roe on toast, snips of broiled sausage ... But we will make -do with some olives and radishes, a few pickles, nuts, capers. With -our two trusty Lazy Lous on hand plus wine or beer, we can easily -dispense with the mere dinner itself. - -Perhaps it is an Italian night. Then Lazy Lou is happily burdened -with imported Latticini; Incanestrato, still bearing the imprint of -its wicker basket; Pepato, which is but Incanestrato peppered; Mel -Fina; deep-yellow, buttery Scanno with its slightly burned flavor; -tangy Asiago; Caciocavallo, so called because the the cheeses, tied -in pairs and hung over a pole, look as though they were sitting in a -saddle--cheese on horseback, or "_cacio a cavallo_." Then we ring in -Lazy Lou's first assistant, an old, silver-plated, revolving -Florentine magnum-holder. It's designed to spin a gigantic flask of -Chianti. The flick of a finger and the bottle is before you. Gently -pull it down and hold your glass to the spout. - -True, imported wines and cheeses are expensive. But native American -products and reasonably edible imitations of the real thing are -available as substitutes. Anyway, protein for protein, a cheese party -will cost less than a steak barbecue. And it can be more fun. - -Encourage your guests to contribute their own latest discoveries. One -may bring along as his ticket of admission a Primavera from Brazil; -another some cubes of an Andean specialty just flown in from -Colombia's mountain city, Merida, and still wrapped in its aromatic -leaves of _Frailejon Lanudo_; another a few wedges of savory sweet -English Flower cheese, some flavored with rose petals, others with -marigolds; another a tube of South American Kraeuterkaese. - -Provide your own assortment of breads and try to include some of -those fat, flaky old-fashioned crackers that country stores in New -England can still supply. Mustard? Sure, if _.you_ like it. If you -want to be fancy, use a tricky little gadget put out by the Maille -condiment-makers in France and available here in the food specialty -shops. It's a miniature painter's palate holding five mustards of -different shades and flavors and two mustard paddles. The mustards, -in proper chromatic order, are: jonquil yellow "Strong Dijon"; "Green -Herbs"; brownish "Tarragon"; golden "Ora"; crimson "Tomato-flavored." - -And, just to keep things moving, we have restored an antique whirling -cruet-holder to deliver Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, A-1, Tap -Sauce and Major Grey's Chutney. Salt shakers and pepper mills are -handy, with a big-holed tin canister filled with crushed red-pepper -pods, chili powder, Hungarian-paprika and such small matters. Butter, -both sweet and salt, is on hand, together with, saucers or bowls of -curry, capers, chives (sliced, not chopped), minced onion, fresh mint -leaves, chopped pimientos, caraway, quartered lemons, parsley, fresh -tarragon, tomato slices, red and white radishes, green and black -olives, pearl onions and assorted nutmeats. - -Some years ago, when I was collaborating with my mother, Cora, and my -wife, Rose, in writing _10,000 Snacks_ (which, by the way, devotes -nearly forty pages to cheeses), we staged a rather elaborate tasting -party just for the three of us. It took a two-tiered Lazy Lou to -twirl the load. - -The eight wedges on the top round were English and French samples and -the lower one carried the rest, as follows: - - ENGLISH CHEDDAR CHESHIRE ENGLISH STILTON CANADIAN CHEDDAR - (rum flavored) - - FRENCH MUeNSTER FRENCH BRIE FRENCH FRENCH - CAMEMBERT ROQUEFORT - - SWISS SAPSAGO SWISS GRUYERE SWISS EDAM DUTCH GOUDA - - ITALIAN CZECH ITALIAN NORWEGIAN - PROVOLONE OSTIEPKI GORGONZOLA GJETOST - - HUNGARIAN LIPTAUER - -The tasting began with familiar English Cheddars, Cheshires and -Stiltons from the top row. We had cheese knives, scoops, graters, -scrapers and a regulation wire saw, but for this line of crumbly -Britishers fingers were best. - -The Cheddar was a light, lemony-yellow, almost white, like our -best domestic "bar cheese" of old. - -The Cheshire was moldy and milky, with a slightly fermented -flavor that brought up the musty dining room of Fleet Street's -Cheshire cheese and called for draughts of beer. The Stilton was -strong but mellow, as high in flavor as in price. - -Only the rum-flavored Canadian Cheddar from Montreal (by courtesy -English) let us down. It was done up as fancy as a bridegroom in -waxed white paper and looked as smooth and glossy as a gardenia. But -there its beauty ended. Either the rum that flavored it wasn't up to -much or the mixture hadn't been allowed to ripen naturally. - -The French Muenster, however, was hearty, cheery, and better made than -most German Muenster, which at that time wasn't being exported much by -the Nazis. The Brie was melting prime, the Camembert was so perfectly -matured we ate every scrap of the crust, which can't be done with -many American "Camemberts" or, indeed, with the dead, dry French ones -sold out of season. Then came the Roquefort, a regal cheese we voted -the best buy of the lot, even though it was the most expensive. A -plump piece, pleasantly unctuous but not greasy, sharp in scent, -stimulatingly bittersweet in taste--unbeatable. There is no American -pretender to the Roquefort throne. Ours is invariably chalky and -tasteless. That doesn't mean we have no good Blues. We have. But they -are not Roquefort. - -The Sapsago or Kraeuterkaese from Switzerland (it has been made in the -Canton of Glarus for over five hundred years) was the least expensive -of the lot. Well-cured and dry, it lent itself to grating and tasted -fine on an old-fashioned buttered soda cracker. Sapsago has its own -seduction, derived from the clover-leaf powder with which the curd is -mixed and which gives it its haunting flavor and spring-like -sage-green color. - -Next came some truly great Swiss Gruyere, delicately rich, and nutty -enough to make us think of the sharp white wines to be drunk with it -at the source. - -As for the Provolone, notable for the water-buffalo milk that makes -it, there's an example of really grown-up milk. Perfumed as spring -flowers drenched with a shower of Anjou, having a bouquet all its own -and a trace of a winelike kick, it made us vow never to taste another -American imitation. Only a smooth-cheeked, thick slab cut from a -pedigreed Italian Provolone of medium girth, all in one piece and -with no sign of a crack, satisfy the gourmet. - -The second Italian classic was Gorgonzola, gorgeous Gorgonzola, as -fruity as apples, peaches and pears sliced together. It smells so -much like a ripe banana we often eat them together, plain or with the -crumbly _formaggio_ lightly forked into the fruit, split lengthwise. - -After that the Edam tasted too lipsticky, like the red-paint job on -its rind, and the Gouda seemed only half-hearted. Both too obviously -ready-made for commerce with nothing individual or custom-made about -them, rolled or bounced over from Holland by the boat load. - -The Ostiepki from Czechoslovakia might have been a link of smoked -ostrich sausage put up in the skin of its own red neck. In spite of -its pleasing lemon-yellow interior, we couldn't think of any use for -it except maybe crumbling thirty or forty cents' worth into a -ten-cent bowl of bean soup. But that seemed like a waste of money, so -we set it aside to try in tiny chunks on crackers as an appetizer -some other day, when it might be more appetizing. - -We felt much the same about the chocolate-brown Norwegian Gjetost -that looked like a slab of boarding-school fudge and which had the -same cloying cling to the tongue. We were told by a native that our -piece was entirely too young. That's what made it so insipid, -undeveloped in texture and flavor. But the next piece we got turned -out to be too old and decrepit, and so strong it would have taken a -Paul Bunyan to stand up under it. When we complained to our expert -about the shock to our palates, he only laughed, pointing to the nail -on his little finger. - -"You should take just a little bit, like that. A pill no bigger than -a couple of aspirins or an Alka-Seltzer. It's only in the morning you -take it when it's old and strong like this, for a pick-me-up, a cure -for a hangover, you know, like a prairie oyster well soused in -Worcestershire." - -That made us think we might use it up to flavor a Welsh Rabbit, -_instead_ of the Worcestershire sauce, but we couldn't melt it with -anything less than a blowtorch. - -To bring the party to a happy end, we went to town on the Hungarian -Liptauer, garnishing that fine, granulating buttery base after mixing -it well with some cream cheese. We mixed the mixed cheese with -sardine and tuna mashed together in a little of the oil from the can. -We juiced it with lemon, sluiced it with bottled sauces, worked in -the leftovers, some tarragon, mint, spicy seeds, parsley, capers and -chives. We peppered and paprikaed it, salted and spiced it, then -spread it thicker than butter on pumpernickel and went to it. -_That's_ Liptauer Garniert. - - - - -[Illustration: No. 4 Cheese Inc.] - -_Appendix_ - -The A-B-Z of Cheese - -_Each cheese is listed by its name and country of origin, with any -further information available. Unless otherwise indicated, the cheese -is made of cow's milk._ - - -A - -Aberdeen -_Scotland_ - -Soft; creamy mellow. - -Abertam -_Bohemia_ _(Made near Carlsbad_) - -Hard; sheep; distinctive, with a savory smack all its own. - -Absinthe _see_ Petafina. - -Acidophilus _see_ Saint-Ivel. - -Aettekees -_Belgium_ - -November to May--winter-made and eaten. - -Affine, Carre _see_ Ancien Imperial. - -Affumicata, Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella. - -After-dinner cheeses _see_ Chapter 8. - -Agricultural school cheeses _see_ College-educated. - -Aiguilles, Fromage d' -_Alpine France_ - -Named "Cheese of the Needles" from the sharp Alpine peaks of the -district where it is made. - -Aizy, Cendree d' _see_ Cendree. - -Ajacilo, Ajaccio -_Corsica_ - -Semihard; piquant; nut-flavor. Named after the chief city of French -Corsica where a cheese-lover, Napoleon, was born. - -a la Creme _see_ Fromage, Fromage Blanc, Chevretons. - -a la Main _see_ Vacherin. - -a la Pie _see_ Fromage. - -a la Rachette _see_ Bagnes. - -Albini -_Northern Italy_ - -Semihard; made of both goat and cow milk; white, mellow, -pleasant-tasting table cheese. - -Albula -_Switzerland_ - -Rich with the flavor of cuds of green herbs chewed into creamy milk -that makes tasty curds. Made in the fertile Swiss Valley of Albula -whose proud name it bears. - -Alderney -_Channel Islands_ - -The French, who are fond of this special product of the very special -breed of cattle named after the Channel Island of Alderney, translate -it phonetically--Fromage d'Aurigny. - -Alemtejo -_Portugal_ - -Called in full Queijo de Alemtejo, cheese of Alemtejo, in the same way -that so many French cheeses carry along the _fromage_ title. Soft; -sheep and sometimes goat or cow; in cylinders of three sizes, weighing -respectively about two ounces, one pound, and four pounds. The smaller -sizes are the ones most often made with mixed goat and sheep milk. The -method of curdling without the usual animal rennet is interesting and -unusual. The milk is warmed and curdled with vegetable rennet made -from the flowers of a local thistle, or cardoon, which is used in two -other Portuguese cheeses--Queijo da Cardiga and Queijo da Serra da -Estrella--and probably in many others not known beyond their locale. -In France la Caillebotte is distinguished for being clabbered with -_chardonnette_, wild artichoke seed. In Portugal, where there isn't so -much separating of the sheep from the goats, it takes several weeks -for Alemtejos to ripen, depending on the lactic content and difference -in sizes. - -Alfalfa _see_ Sage. - -Alise Saint-Reine -_France_ - -Soft; summer-made. - -Allgaeuer Bergkaese, Allgaeuer Rundkaese, or Allgaeuer Emmentaler -_Bavaria_ - -Hard; Emmentaler type. The small district of Allgaeu names a mountain -of cheeses almost as fabulous as our "Rock-candy Mountain." There are -two principal kinds, vintage Allgaeuer Bergkaese and soft Allgaeuer -Rahmkaese, described below. This celebrated cheese section runs through -rich pasture lands right down and into the Swiss Valley of the Emme -that gives the name Emmentaler to one of the world's greatest. So it -is no wonder that Allgaeuer Bergkaese can compete with the best Swiss. -Before the Russian revolution, in fact, all vintage cheeses of Allgaeu -were bought up by wealthy Russian noblemen and kept in their home -caves in separate compartments for each year, as far back as the early -1900's. As with fine vintage wines, the price of the great years went -up steadily. Such cheeses were shipped to their Russian owners only -when the chief cheese-pluggers of Allgaeu found they had reached their -prime. - -Allgaeuer Rahmkaese -_Bavaria_ - -Full cream, similar to Romadur and Limburger, but milder than both. -This sets a high grade for similar cheeses made in the Bavarian -mountains, in monasteries such as Andechs. It goes exquisitely with -the rich dark Bavarian beer. Some of it is as slippery as the -stronger, smellier Bierkaese, or the old-time Slipcote of England. -Like so many North Europeans, it is often flavored with caraway. -Although entirely different from its big brother, vintage Bergkaese, -Rahmkaese can stand proudly at its side as one of the finest cheeses -in Germany. - -Alpe _see_ Fiore di Alpe. - -Al Pepe -_Italy_ - -Hard and peppery, like its name. Similar to Pepato (_see_). - -Alpes -_France_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. - -Alpestra -_Austria_ - -A smoked cheese that tastes, smells and inhales like whatever fish it -was smoked with. The French Alps has a different Alpestre; Italy -spells hers Alpestro. - -Alpestre, Alpin, or Fromage de Briancon -_France_ - -Hard; goat; dry; small; lightly salted. Made at Briancon and Gap. - -Alpestro -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; goat; dry; lightly salted. - -Alpin or Clerimbert -_Alpine France_ - -The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80 deg. F. in two hours. The curd is -dipped into molds three to four inches in diameter and two and a half -inches in height, allowed to drain, turned several times for one day -only, then salted and ripened one to two weeks. - -Altenburg, or Altenburger Ziegenkaese -_Germany_ - -Soft; goat; small and flat--one to two inches thick, eight inches in -diameter, weight two pounds. - -Alt Kuhkaese Old Cow Cheese -_Germany_ - -Hard; well-aged, as its simple name suggests. - -Altsohl _see_ Brinza. - -Ambert, or Fourme d'Ambert -_Limagne, Auvergne, France_ - -A kind of Cheddar made from November to May and belonging to the -Cantal--Fourme-La Tome tribe. - -American, American Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Described under their home states and distinctive names are a dozen -fine American Cheddars, such as Coon, Wisconsin, Herkimer County and -Tillamook, to name only a few. They come in as many different shapes, -with traditional names such as Daisies, Flats, Longhorns, Midgets, -Picnics, Prints and Twins. The ones simply called Cheddars weigh about -sixty pounds. All are made and pressed and ripened in about the same -way, although they differ greatly in flavor and quality. They are -ripened anywhere from two months to two years and become sharper, -richer and more flavorsome, as well as more expensive, with the -passing of time. _See_ Cheddar states and Cheddar types in Chapter 4. - -Americano Romano -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; brittle; sharp. - -Amou -_Bearn, France_ - -Winter cheese, October to May. - -Anatolian -_Turkey_ - -Hard; sharp. - -Anchovy Links -_U.S.A._ - -American processed cheese that can be mixed up with anchovies or any -fish from whitebait to whale, made like a sausage and sold in handy -links. - -Ancien Imperial -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; fresh cream; white, mellow and creamy like Neufchatel and made -in the same way. Tiny bricks packaged in tin foil, two inches square, -one-half inch thick, weighing three ounces. Eaten both fresh and when -ripe. It is also called Carre and has separate names for the new and -the old: (a) Petit Carre when newly made; (b) Carre Affine, when it -has reached a ripe old age, which doesn't take long--about the same -time as Neufchatel. - -Ancona _see_ Pecorino. - -Andean -_Venezuela_ - -A cow's-milker made in the Andes near Merida. It is formed into rough -cubes and wrapped in the pungent, aromatic leaves of _Frailejon -Lanudo_ (_Espeletia Schultzii_) which imparts to it a characteristic -flavor. (Description given in _Buen Provecho!_ by Dorothy Kamen-Kaye.) - -Andechs -_Bavaria_ - -A lusty Allgaeuer type. Monk-made on the monastery hill at Andechs on -Ammersee. A superb snack with equally monkish dark beer, black bread -and blacker radishes, served by the brothers in dark brown robes. - -Antwerp -_Belgium_ - -Semihard; nut-flavored; named after its place of origin. - -Appenzeller -_Switzerland, Bavaria and Baden_ - -Semisoft Emmentaler type made in a small twenty-pound wheel--a -pony-cart wheel in comparison to the big Swiss. There are two -qualities: (a) Common, made of skim milk and cured in brine for a -year; (b) Festive, full milk, steeped in brine with wine, plus white -wine lees and pepper. The only cheese we know of that is ripened with -lees of wine. - -Appetitost -_Denmark_ - -Semisoft; sour milk; nutlike flavor. It's an appetizer that lives up -to its name, eaten fresh on the spot, from the loose bottom pans in -which it is made. - -Appetost -_Denmark_ - -Sour buttermilk, similar to Primula, with caraway seeds added for -snap. Imitated in U.S.A. - -Apple -_U.S.A._ - -A small New York State Cheddar put up in the form of a red-cheeked -apple for New York City trade. Inspired by the pear-shaped Provolone -and Baby Gouda, no doubt. - -Arber -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sour milk; yellow; mellow and creamy. Made in mountains -between Bohemia and Silesia. - -Argentine -_Argentina_ - -Argentina is specially noted for fine reproductions of classical -Italian hard-grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, rich and -fruity because of the lush pampas-grass feeding. - -Armavir -_Western Caucasus_ - -Soft; whole sour sheep milk; a hand cheese made by stirring cold, sour -buttermilk or whey into heated milk, pressing in forms and ripening in -a warm place. Similar to Hand cheese. - -Arnauten _see_ Travnik. - -Arovature -_Italy_ - -Water-buffalo milk. - -Arras, Coeurs d' _see_ Coeurs. - -Arrigny -_Champagne, France_ - -Made only in winter, November to May. Since gourmet products of the -same province often have a special affinity, Arrigny and champagne are -specially well suited to one another. - -Artichoke, Cardoon or Thistle for Rennet _see_ Caillebotte. - -Artificial Dessert Cheese - -In the lavish days of olde England Artificial Dessert Cheese was made -by mixing one quart of cream with two of milk and spiking it with -powdered cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Four beaten eggs were then stirred -in with one-half cup of white vinegar and the mixture boiled to a -curd. It was then poured into a cheesecloth and hung up to drain six -to eight hours. When taken out of the cloth it was further flavored -with rose water, sweetened with castor sugar, left to ripen for an -hour or two and finally served up with more cream. - -Asadero, or Oaxaca -_Jalisco and Oaxaca, Mexico_ - -White; whole-milk. Curd is heated, and hot curd is cut and braided or -kneaded into loaves from eight ounces to eleven pounds in weight -Asadero means "suitable for roasting." - -Asco -_Corsica, France_ - -Made only in the winter season, October to May. - -Asiago I, II and III -_Vicenza, Italy_ - -Sometimes classed as medium and mild, depending mostly on age. Loaves -weigh about eighteen pounds each and look like American Cheddar but -have a taste all their own. - -I. Mild, nutty and sharp, used for table slicing and eating. - -II. Medium, semihard and tangy, also used for slicing until nine -months old. - -III. Hard, old, dry, sharp, brittle. When over nine months old, it's -fine for grating. - - -Asin, or Water cheese -_Northern Italy_ - -Sour-milk; washed-curd; whitish; soft; buttery. Made mostly in spring -and eaten in summer and autumn. Dessert cheese, frequently eaten with -honey and fruit. - -Au Cumin -_see_ Muenster. - -Au Fenouil -_see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Au Foin and de Foin - -A style of ripening "on the hay." _See_ Pithiviers au Foin and Fromage -de Foin. - -Augelot -_Valee d'Auge, Normandy, France_ - -Soft; tangy; piquant Pont l'Eveque type. - -d'Auray _see_ Sainte-Anne. - -Aurigny, Fromage d' _see_ Alderney. - -Aurillac _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Aurore and Triple Aurore -_Normandy, France_ - -Made and eaten all year. - -Australian and New Zealand -_Australia and New Zealand_ - -Enough cheese is produced for local consumption, chiefly Cheddar; some -Gruyere, but unfortunately mostly processed. - -Autun -_Nivernais, France_ - -Produced and eaten all year. Fromage de Vache is another name for it -and this is of special interest in a province where the chief -competitors are made of goat's milk. - -Auvergne, Bleu d' _see_ Bleu. - -Au Vin Blanc, Confits _see_ Epoisses. - -Avesnes, Boulette d' _see_ Boulette. - -Aydes, les -_Orleanais, France_ - -Not eaten during July, August or September. Season, October to June. - -Azeitao, Queijo do -_Portugal_ - -Soft, sheep, sapid and extremely oily as the superlative _ao_ implies. -There are no finer, fatter cheeses in the world than those made of -rich sheep milk in the mountains of Portugal and named for them. - -Azeitoso -_Portugal_ - -Soft; mellow, zestful and as oily as it is named. - -Azuldoch Mountain -_Turkey_ - -Mild and mellow mountain product. - - -B - -Backsteiner -_Bavaria_ - -Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from the -shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like the U.S. -Brick. - -Bagnes, or Fromage a la Raclette -_Switzerland_ - -Not only hard but very hard, named from _racler_, French for -"scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across the whole cheese -and toasted until runny. It is then scraped off the pan it's toasted -in with a flexible knife, spread on bread and eaten like an open-faced -Welsh Rabbit sandwich. - -Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano -_Italy_ - -Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan type. - -Bakers' cheese - -Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer grained. -Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake, pie, and pastries, -but may also be eaten like creamed cottage cheese. - -Ball -_U.S.A._ - -Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of the original -Pennsylvania Dutch settlers. - -Ballakaese or Womelsdorf - -Similar to Ball. - -Balls, Dutch Red - -English name for Edam. - -Banbury -_England_ - -Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of Banbury, -famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its equestrienne. Banbury -cheese with Banbury buns made a sensational snack in the early -nineteenth century, but both are getting scarce today. - -Banick -_Armenia_ - -White and sweet. - -Banjaluka -_Bosnia_ - -Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery. - -Banon, or les Petits Banons -_Provence, France,_ - -Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the Alps and -exported through Marseilles in season, May to November. This sprightly -summer cheese is generously sprinkled with the local brandy and -festively wrapped in fresh green leaves. - -Bar cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch counter in the -U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was the backbone of -America's cheese industry. - -Barbacena -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in the leading -cheese state of Brazil. - -Barberey, or Fromage de Troyes -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six inches in -diameter and 1-1/4 inches thick. Named from its home town, Barberey, -near Troyes, whose name it also bears. Fresh, warm milk is coagulated -by rennet in four hours. Uncut curd then goes into a wooden mold with -a perforated bottom, to drain three hours, before being finished off -in an earthenware mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened -three weeks in a cave. The season is from November to May and when -made in summer they are often sold fresh. - -Barboux -_France_ - -Soft. - -Baronet -_U.S.A._ - -A natural product, mild and mellow. - -Barron -_France_ - -Soft. - -Bassillac _see_ Bleu. - -Bath -_England_ - -Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the historic -resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten only when covered -with a refined fuzzy mold that's also eminently edible. It is the most -delicate of English-speaking cheeses. - -Battelmatt _Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and -western Austria_ - -An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The "wheel" is -only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches high, weighing forty -to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd is done at a little lower -temperature than Emmentaler, it ripens more rapidly--in four months ---and is somewhat softer, but has the same holes and creamy though -sharp, full nutty flavor. - -Bauden (_see also_ Koppen) -_Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia_ - -Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain huts in -about the same way as Harzkaese, though it is bigger. In two forms, one -cup shape (called Koppen), the other a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, -whether made with or without caraway. - -Bavarian Beer cheese _see_ Bayrischer Bierkaese. - -Bavarian Cream -_German_ - -Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian mountains. -Especially good with sweet wines and sweet sauces. - -Bavarois a la Vanille _see_ Fromage Bavarois. - -Bayonne _see_ Fromage de Bayonne. - -Bayrischer Bierkaese -_Bavaria_ - -Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat with beer, -but to dunk in it. - -Beads of cheese -_Tibet_ - -Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung like a -necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a hundred on a string. -_Also see_ Money Made of Cheese. - -Beagues _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental ports, and -also imitated in every Chinatown around the world. Made from the milk -of beans and curdled with its own vegetable rennet. - -Beaujolais _see_ Chevretons. - -Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont -_Savoy, France_ - -A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a trade-secret -triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to June. - -Beaupre de Roybon -_Dauphine, France_ - -A winter specialty made from November to April. - -Beckenried -_Switzerland_ - -A good mountain cheese from goat milk. - -Beer cheese -_U.S.A._ - -While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is merely a -translation of Bierkaese, we use it chiefly for a type of strong -Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine, aromatic cheese is -considered by many as the very best to eat while drinking beer. But in -Germany Bierkaese is more apt to be dissolved in a glass or stein of -beer, much as we mix malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather -than eaten. - -Beer-Regis -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild Cheddar -named after its hometown in Dorsetshire. - -Beist-Cheese -_Scotland_ - -A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a calving, boiled -or baked to a thick consistency, the result somewhat resembling -new-made cheese, though this is clearly not a true cheese." (MacNeill) - -Belarno -_Italy_ - -Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese. - -Belgian Cooked -_Belgium_ - -The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is skimmed -and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is -allowed to undergo fermentation, which takes ordinarily from ten to -fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. When the -fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is -heated slowly and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds -and allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs -about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially different from -other forms of cooked cheese. - -Beli Sir _see_ Domaci. - -Bellelay, Tete de Moine, or Monk's Head -_Switzerland_ - -Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated with rennet -in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly fine and cooked not -so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than Limburger. After being pressed, -the cheeses are wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks until they can -stand alone. Since no eyes are desired in the cheeses, they are -ripened in a moist cellar at a lowish temperature. They take a year to -ripen and will keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, -the weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is -kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft, creamy -spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that go with more -white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old cheese suggest -monkish influence, which began here in the fifteenth century with the -jolly friars of the Canton of Bern. There it is still made exclusively -and not exported, for there's never quite enough to go around. - -Bel Paese -_Italy_ - -_See under_ Foreign Greats, Chapter 3. _Also see_ Mel Fino, a blend, -and Bel Paese types--French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The -American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian original. - -Bel Paesino -_U.S.A._ - -A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and diminutive -in every other way. - -Bergkaese _see_ Allgaeuer. - -Bergquara -_Sweden_ - -Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste. Gets -sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of fifteen to -forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth century. - -Berkeley -_England_ - -Named after its home town in Gloucester, England. - -Berliner Kuhkaese -_Berlin, Germany_ - -Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students. Typical -German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds, and that's -about the only difference between it and Alt Kuhkaese, without caraway. - -Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde -_Italy_ - -Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added for -flavor. Cured for two months. - -Berques -_France_ - -Made of skim milk. - -Berry Rennet _see_ Withania. - -Bessay, le -_Bourbonnais, France_ - -Soft, mild, and creamy. - -Bexhill -_England_ - -Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching. - -Bierkaese -_Germany_ - -There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are actually -dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in the Bierstubes, -notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and Olmuetzer. Semisoft; aromatic; -sharp. Well imitated in _echt Deutsche_ American spots such as -Milwaukee and Hoboken. - -Bifrost -_Norway_ - -Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in 4-1/4-ounce -package. - -Binn -_Wallis, Switzerland_ - -Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of Wallis. - -Bitto -_Northern Italy_ - -Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really two cheeses -in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid, big-eyed Swiss. When -eaten after two years of ripening, it is very hard and sharp and has -small eyes. - -Blanc a la creme _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Blanc _see_ Fromage Blanc I and II. - -Bleu -_France_ - -Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting. - -Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu -_Auvergne, France_ - -Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and -Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of the same -province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu de Laqueuille. - -Bleu de Bassillac -_Limousin, France_ - -Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to May. - -Bleu de Laqueuille -_France_ - -Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor. Named for its -originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first made it a century -ago, in 1854. - -Bleu de Limousin, Fromage -_Lower Limousin_ - -Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower Limousin. - -Bleu de Salers -_France_ - -A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province distinguished for -its blues that are green. With the majority, this is at its best only -in the winter months, from November to May. - -Bleu, Fromage _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Bleu-Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Blind - -The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type they belong -to, such as blind Swiss. - -Block Edam -_U.S.A._ - -U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the town of -Edam. - -Block, Smoked -_Austria_ - -The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored meerschaum. - -Bloder, or Schlicker Milch -_Switzerland_ - -Sour-milker. - -Blue Cheddar _see_ Cheshire-Stilton. - -Blue, Danish _see_ Danish Blue. - -Blue Dorset _see_ Dorset. - -Blue, Jura _see_ Jura Bleu and Septmoncel. - -Blue, and Blue with Port Links -_U.S.A._ - -One of the modern American process sausages. - -Blue, Minnesota _see_ Minnesota. - -Blue Moon -_U.S.A._ - -A process product. - -Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double Dorset -_Dorsetshire, England_ - -A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make it for -private consumption, because it dries up too easily to market. An -epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of Wiltshire. It comes in -a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and sharply flavored, with a "royal -Blue" vein running right through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from -which it was named, is different from all other cheese molds and has a -different action. - -Bocconi Geganti -_Italy_ - -Sharp and smoky specialty. - -Bocconi Provoloni _see_ Provolone. - -Boite _see_ Fromage de Boite. - -Bombay -_India_ - -Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in place of -a cracker. - -Bondes _see_ Bondon de Neufchatel. - -Bondon de Neufchatel, or Bondes -_Normandy, France_ - -Nicknamed _Bonde a tout bien_, from resemblance to the bung in a -barrel of Neuchatel wine. Soft, small loaf rolls, fresh and mild. -Similar to Gournay, but sweeter because of 2% added sugar. - -Bondon de Rouen -_France_ - -A fresh Neufchatel, similar to Petit Suisse, but slightly salted, to -last up to ten days. - -Bondost -_Sweden_ - -When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled Kuminost -in Norway. - -Bond Ost -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in Wisconsin. - -Bon Larron -_France_ - -Romantically named "the penitent thief." - -Borden's -_U.S.A._ - -A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz is the -leader. - -Borelli -_Italy_ - -A small water-buffalo cheese. - -Bossons Maceres -_Provence, France_ - -A winter product, December, January, February and March only. - -Boudanne -_France_ - -Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three months. - -Boudes, Boudon -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the Neufchatel family. - -Bougon Lamothe _see_ Lamothe. - -Bouille, la -_Normandy France_ - -One of this most prolific province's thirty different notables. In -season October to May. - -Boule de Lille -_France_ - -Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy it. - -Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de Cambrai -_Flanders, France_ - -Made from November to May, eaten all year. - -Bourgain -_France_ - -Type of fresh Neufchatel made in France. Perishable and consumed -locally. - -Bourgognes _see_ Petits Bourgognes. - -Box -_Wuerttemberg, Germany_ - -Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and soft: - -I. Also known as Schachtelkaese, Boxed Cheese; and Hohenheim, where it -is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made in a copper kettle, with -partially skim milk, colored with saffron and spiked with caraway, a -handful to every two hundred pounds. Salted and ripened for three -months and shipped in wooden boxes. - -II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg, Mondess -and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but piquant. - -Bra No. I -_Piedmont, Italy_ - -Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches high, weight -twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by nomads who wander -with their herds from pasture to pasture in the region of Bra. - -Bra No. II -_Turin and Cuneo, Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in brine. - -Brand or Brandkaese -_Germany_ - -Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound. The curd -is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set to ferment for a -day. Butter is then mixed into it before pressing into small bricks. -After drying it is put in used beer kegs to ripen and is frequently -moistened with beer while curing. - -Brandy _see_ Caledonian, Cream. - -Branja de Brailia -_Rumania_ - -Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine. - -Branja de Cosulet -_Rumania_ - -Described by Richard Wyndham in _Wine and Food_ (Winter, 1937): A -creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in pine bark. My only criticism -of this most excellent cheese is that the center must always remain a -gastronomical second best. It is no more interesting than a good -English Cheddar, while the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor -which must be unique among cheeses. - -Bratkaese -_Switzerland_ - -Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine, grilled on -toast. - -Breakfast, Fruehstueck, Lunch, Delikat, and other names -_Germany_ - -Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for spreading. -Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in Germany, while in -Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three meals. - -Breakstone -_U.S.A._ - -Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and -manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their cream -cheese is an American product to be proud of. - -Bresegaut -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, white. - -Breslau -_Germany_ - -A proud Prussian dessert cheese. - -Bressans _see_ les Petits. - -Bresse -_France_ - -Lightly cooked. - -Bretagne _see_ Montauban. - -Brevine -_Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Briancon _see_ Alpin. - -Brick _see_ Chapter 4. - -Brickbat -_Wiltshire, England_ - -A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the eighteenth century. -Made with fresh milk and some cream, to ripen for one year before -"it's fit to eat." The French call it Briqueton. - -Bricotta -_Corsica_ - -Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and made into -small luscious cakes. - -Brie _see_ Chapter 3; _also see_ Cendre and Coulommiers. - -Brie Facon -_France_ - -The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of France. -Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest Brie -_veritable_ that is still made best in its original home, formerly -called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or Ile-de-France. - -_see_ Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and Ile-de-France. - -Brie de Meaux -_France_ - -This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent reputation -for high quality. It is made only from November to May. - -Brie de Melun -_France_ - -This Brie _veritable_ is made not only in the seasonal months, from -November to May, but practically all the year around. It is not always -prime. Summer Brie, called Maigre, is notably poor and thin. Spring -Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as against the fat autumn Gras that -ripens until May. - -Brillat-Savarin -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, and available all year. Although the author of _Physiologie du -Gout_ was not noted as a caseophile and wrote little on the subject -beyond _Le Fondue_ (_see_ Chapter 6), this savory Normandy produce is -named in his everlasting praise. - -Brina Dubreala -_Rumania_ - -Semisoft, sheep, done in brine. - -Brindza -_U.S.A._ - -Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort is as -popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its Hungarian and -Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several stores advertise -"Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d" crowded into the original -Brinza. - -Brine _see_ Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani, -Brina Dubreala, Briney. - -Briney, or Brined -_Syria_ - -Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in brine. -Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked type. - -Brinza, or Brinsen -_Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains_ - -Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch, Liptauer, Neusohl, -Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or sheep and goat; crumbly, -sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in small lots and cured in a tub -with beech shavings. Ftinoporino is its opposite number in Macedonia. - -Brioler _see_ Westphalia. - -Briquebec _see_ Providence - -Briqueton -_England_ - -The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the very few -cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the eighteenth -century, it may have influenced the making of Trappist Port-Salut at -the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche. - -Brittle _see_ Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta, Turkish Rarush Durmar, -and U.S. Hopi. - -Brizecon -_Savoy, France_ - -Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province. - -Broccio, or le Brocconis -_Corsica, France_ - -Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first cousin to -Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten fresh in Paris, -where it is as popular as on its home island. Sometimes salted and -half-dried, or made into little cakes with rum and sugar. Made and -eaten all year. - -Broodkaas -_Holland_ - -Hard, flat, nutty. - -Brousses de la Vezubie, les -_Nice, France_ - -Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with powdered sugar -or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in Vezubie. - -Brussels or Bruxelles -_Belgium_ - -Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain and Hal -districts. - -Budapest -_Hungary_ - -Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in Budapest and -abroad in Vienna. - -Buderich -_Germany_ - -A specialty in Dusseldorf. - -Bulle -_Switzerland_ - -A Swiss-Gruyere. - -Bundost -_Sweden_ - -Semihard; mellow; tangy. - -Burgundy -_France_ - -Named after the province, not the wine, but they go wonderfully -together. - -Bushman -_Australia_ - -Semihard; yellow; tangy. - -Butter and Cheese _see_ Chapter 8. - -"Butter," Serbian _see_ Kajmar. - -Buttermilk -_U.S. & Europe_ - -Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain. - - -C - -Cabecou, le -_Auvergne, France_ - -Small; goat; from Maurs. - -Cabrillon -_Auvergne, France_ - -So much like the Cabrecon they might be called sister nannies under -the rind. - -Cachet d'Entrechaux, le, or Fromage Fort du Ventoux - -_Provence Mountains, France_ - -Semihard; sheep; mixed with brandy, dry white wine and sundry -seasonings. Well marinated and extremely strong. Season May to -November. - -Caciocavallo -_Italy_ - -"Horse Cheese." The ubiquitous cheese of classical greats, imitated -all around the world and back to Italy again. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Caciocavallo Siciliano -_Sicily, also in U.S.A._ - -Essentially a pressed Provolone. Usually from cow's whole milk, but -sometimes from goat's milk or a mixture of the two. Weight between -17-1/2 and 26 pounds. Used for both table cheese and grating. - -Cacio Fiore, or Caciotta -_Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; in four-pound square frames; sweetish; eaten -fresh. - -Cacio Pecorino Romano _see_ Pecorino. - -Cacio Romano _see_ Chiavari. - -Caerphilly -_Wales and England--Devon, Dorset, Somerset & Wilshire_ - -Semihard; whole fresh milk; takes three weeks to ripen. Also sold -"green," young and innocent, at the age of ten to eleven days when -weighing about that many pounds. Since it has little keeping qualities -it should be eaten quickly. Welsh miners eat a lot of it, think it -specially suited to their needs, because it is easily digested and -does not produce so much heat in the body as long-keeping cheeses. - -Caillebottes (Curds) -_France--Anjou, Poitou, Saintonge & Vendee_ - -Soft, creamy, sweetened fresh or sour milk clabbered with -chardonnette, wild artichoke seed, over slow fire. Cut in lozenges and -served cold not two hours after cooking. Smooth, mellow and aromatic. -A high type of this unusual cheese is Jonchee (_see_). Other cheeses -are made with vegetable rennet, some from similar thistle or cardoon -juice, especially in Portugal. - -Caille de Poitiers _see_ Petits pots. - -Caille de Habas -_Gascony, France_ - -Clabbered or clotted sheep milk. - -Cajassou -_Perigord, France_ - -A notable goat cheese made in Cubjac. - -Calabrian -_Italy_ - -The Calabrians make good sheep cheese, such as this and Caciocavallo. - -Calcagno -_Sicily_ - -Hard; ewe's milk. Suitable for grating. - -Caledonian Cream -_Scotland_ - -More of a dessert than a true cheese. We read in _Scotland's Inner -Man_: "A sort of fresh cream cheese, flavored with chopped orange -marmalade, sugar brandy and lemon juice. It is whisked for about half -an hour. Otherwise, if put into a freezer, it would be good -ice-pudding." - -Calvados -_France_ - -Medium-hard; tangy. Perfect with Calvados applejack from the same -province. - -Calvenzano -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola, made in Bergamo. - -Cambrai _see_ Boulette. - -Cambridge, or York -_England_ - -Soft; fresh; creamy; tangy. The curd is quickly made in one hour and -dipped into molds without cutting to ripen for eating in thirty hours. - -Camembert _see_ Chapter 3. - -"Camembert" -_Germany, U.S. & elsewhere_ - -A West German imitation that comes in a cute little heart-shaped box -which nevertheless doesn't make it any more like the Camembert -_veritable_ of Normandy. - -Camosun -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; open-textured, resembling Monterey. Drained curd is pressed -in hoops, cheese is salted in brine for thirty hours, then coated -with paraffin and cured for one to three months in humid room at 50 deg. -to 60 deg. F. - -Canadian Club -_see_ Cheddar Club. - -Cancoillotte, Cancaillotte, Canquoillotte, Quincoillotte, Cancoiade, -Fromagere, Tempete and "Puree" de fromage tres fort _Franche-Comte, -France_ - -Soft; sour milk; sharp and aromatic; with added eggs and butter and -sometimes brandy or dry white wine. Sold in attractive small molds and -pots. Other sharp seasonings besides the brandy or wine make this one -of the strongest of French strong cheeses, similar to Fromage Fort. - -Canestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Hard; mixed goat and sheep; yellow and strong. Takes one year to -mature and is very popular both in Sicily where it is made to -perfection and in Southern Colorado where it is imitated by and for -Italian settlers. - -Cantal, Fromage de Cantal, Auvergne or Auvergne Bleu; also Fourme and -La Tome. -_Auvergne, France_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow; a kind of Cheddar, lightly colored lemon; -yellow; strong, sharp taste but hardly any smell. Forty to a -hundred-twenty pound cylinders. The rich milk from highland pastures -is more or less skimmed and, being a very old variety, it is still -made most primitively. Cured six weeks or six months, and when very -old it's very hard and very sharp. A Cantal type is Laguiole or -Guiole. - -Capitanata -_Italy_ - -Sheep. - -Caprian -_Capri, Italy_ - -Made from milk of goats that still overrun the original Goat Island, -and tangy as a buck. - -Caprino (Little Goat) -_Argentina_ - -Semihard; goat; sharp; table cheese. - -Caraway Loaf -_U.S.A._ - -This is just one imitation of dozens of German caraway-seeded cheeses -that roam the world. In Germany there is not only Kuemmel loaf cheese -but a loaf of caraway-seeded bread to go with it. Milwaukee has long -made a good Kuemmelkaese or hand cheese and it would take more than the -fingers on both hands to enumerate all of the European originals, from -Dutch Komynkaas through Danish King Christian IX and Norwegian -Kuminost, Italian Freisa, Pomeranian Rinnen and Belgian Leyden, to -Pennsylvania Pot. - -Cardiga, Queijo da -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sheep; oily; mild flavor. Named from cardo, cardoon in English, -a kind of thistle used as a vegetable rennet in making several other -cheeses, such as French Caillebottes curdled with chardonnette, wild -artichoke seed. Only classical Greek sheep cheeses like Casera can -compare with the superb ones from the Portuguese mountain districts. -They are lusciously oily, but never rancidly so. - -Carlsbad -_Bohemia_ - -Semihard; sheep; white; slightly salted; expensive. - -Carre Affine -_France_ - -Soft, delicate, in small square forms; similar to Petit Carre and -Ancien Imperial (_see_). - -Carre de l'Est -_France_ - -Similar to Camembert, and imitated in the U.S.A. - -Cascaval Penir -_Turkey_ - -Cacciocavallo imitation consumed at home. - -Caseralla -_Greece_ - -Semisoft; sheep; mellow; creamy. - -Casere -_Greece_ - -Hard; sheep; brittle; gray and greasy. But wonderful! Sour-sweet -tongue tickle. This classical though greasy Grecian is imitated with -goat milk instead of sheep in Southern California. - -Cashera -_Armenia and Greece_ - -Hard; goat or cow's milk; brittle; sharp; nutty. Similar to Casere and -high in quality. - -Cashera -_Turkey_ - -Semihard; sheep. - -Casher Penner _see_ Kasher. - -Cashkavallo -_Syria_ - -Mellow but sharp imitation of the ubiquitous Italian Cacciocavallo. - -Casigiolu, Panedda, Pera di vacca -_Sardinia_ - -Plastic-curd cheese, made by the Caciocavallo method. - -Caskcaval or Kaschcavallo _see_ Feta. - -Caspian -_Caucasus_ - -Semihard. Sheep or cow, milked directly into cone-shaped cloth bag to -speed the making. Tastes tangy, sharp and biting. - -Cassaro -_Italy_ - -Locally consumed, seldom exported. - -Castelmagno -_Italy_ - -Blue-mold, Gorgonzola type. - -Castelo Branco, White Castle -_Portugal_ - -Semisoft; goat or goat and sheep; fermented. Similar to Serra da -Estrella (_see_). - -Castillon, or Fromage de Gascony -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Castle, Schlosskaese -_North Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Catanzaro -_Italy_ - -Consumed locally, seldom exported. - -Cat's Head _see_ Katzenkopf. - -Celery -_Norway_ - -Flavored mildly with celery seeds, instead of the usual caraway. - -Cendree, la -_France--Orleanais, -Blois & Aube_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat. Other Cendrees are Champenois or Ricey, -Brie, d'Aizy and Olivet - -Cendre d'Aizy -_Burgundy, France_ - -Available all year. _See_ la Cendree. - -Cendre de la Brie -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fall and winter Brie cured under the ashes, season September to May. - -Cendre Champenois or Cendre des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Made and eaten from September to June, and ripened under the ashes. - -Cendre Olivet _see_ Olivet. - -Cenis _see_ Mont Cenis. - -Certoso Stracchino -_Italy, near Milan_ - -A variety of Stracchino named after the Carthusian friars who have -made it for donkey's years. It is milder and softer and creamier than -the Taleggio because it's made of cow instead of goat milk, but it has -less distinction for the same reason. - -Ceva -_Italy_ - -Soft veteran of Roman times named from its town near Turin. - -Chabichou -_Poitou, France_ - -Soft; goat; fresh; sweet and tasty. A vintage cheese of the months -from April to December, since such cheeses don't last long enough to -be vintaged like wine by the year. - -Chaingy -_Orleans, France_ - -Season September to June. - -Cham -_Switzerland_ - -One of those eminent Emmentalers from Cham, the home town of Mister -Pfister (_see_ Pfister). - -Chamois milk - -Aristotle said that the most savorous cheese came from the chamois. -This small goatlike antelope feeds on wild mountain herbs not -available to lumbering cows, less agile sheep or domesticated mountain -goats, so it gives, in small quantity but high quality, the richest, -most flavorsome of milk. - -Champenois or Fromage des Riceys -_Aube & Marne, France_ - -Season from September to June. The same as Cendre Champenois and des -Riceys. - -Champoleon de Queyras -_Hautes-Alpes, France_. - -Hard; skim-milker. - -Chantelle -_U.S.A._ - -Natural Port du Salut type described as "zesty" by some of the best -purveyors of domestic cheeses. It has a sharp taste and little odor, -perhaps to fill the demand for a "married man's Limburger." - -Chantilly _see_ Hable. - -Chaource -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft, nice to nibble with the bottled product of this same high-living -Champagne Province. A kind of Camembert. - -Chapelle -_France_ - -Soft. - -Charmey Fine -_Switzerland_ - -Gruyere type. - -Chaschol, or Chaschosis -_Canton of Grisons, Switzerland_ - -Hard; skim; small wheels, eighteen to twenty-two inches in diameter by -three to four inches high, weight twenty-two to forty pounds. - -Chasteaux _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chateauroux _see_ Fromage de Chevre. - -Chaumont -_Champagne, France_ - -Season November to May. - -Chavignol _see_ Crottin. - -Chechaluk -_Armenia_ - -Soft; pot; flaky; creamy. - -Cheddar _see_ Chapter 3. - -Cheese bread -_Russia and U.S.A._ - -For centuries Russia has excelled in making a salubrious cheese bread -called Notruschki and the cheese that flavors it is Tworog. (_See -both_.) Only recently Schrafft's in New York put out a yellow, soft -and toothsome cheese bread that has become very popular for toasting. -It takes heat to bring out its full cheesy savor. Good when overlaid -with cheese butter of contrasting piquance, say one mixed with -Sapsago. - -Cheese butter - -Equal parts of creamed butter and finely grated or soft cheese and -mixtures thereof. The imported but still cheap green Sapsago is not to -be forgotten when mixing your own cheese butter. - -Cheese food -_U.S.A._ - -"Any mixtures of various lots of cheese and other solids derived from -milk with emulsifying agents, coloring matter, seasonings, condiments, -relishes and water, heated or not, into a homogeneous mass." -(A long and kind word for a homely, tasteless, heterogeneous mess.) -From an advertisement - -Cheese hoppers _see_ Hoppers. - -Cheese mites _see_ Mites. - -Cheshire and Cheshire imitations _see_ with Cheddar in -Chapter 3. - -Cheshire-Stilton -_England_ - -In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold -peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by -keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in -which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and -shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, -making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is -Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. - -Chester -_England_ - -Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was -imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. - -Chevalier -_France_ - -Curds sweetened with sugar. - -Chevelle -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Wisconsin. - -Chevre _see_ Fromages. - -Chevre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. - -Chevre petit _see_ Petits Fromages. - -Chevre, Tome de _see_ Tome. - -Chevretin -_Savoy, France_ - -Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. - -Chevrets, Ponta & St. Remy -_Bresse & Franche-Comte, France_ - -Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season -December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in -France. - -Chevretons du Beaujolais a la creme, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the -railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. - -Chevrotins -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and -eaten from March to December. - -Chhana -_Asia_ - -All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, -and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. - -Chiavari -_Italy_ - -There are two different kinds named for -the Chiavari region, and both are hard: - I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. -II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the - historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the - birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with - its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. - -Chives cream cheese - -Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, -there's Belgian Herve and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See -both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as -it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. - -Christalinna -_Canton Graubuenden, Switzerland_ - -Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. - -Christian IX -_Denmark_ - -A distinguished spiced cheese. - -Ciclo -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese. - -Cierp de Luchon -_France_ - -Made from November to May in the Comte de Foix, where it has the -distinction of being the only local product worth listing with -France's three hundred notables. - -Citeaux -_Burgundy, France_ - -Trappist Port-Salut. - -Clabber cheese -_England_ - -Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and -automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. - -Clairvaux -_France_ - -Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. - -Claqueret, le -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ -Chives. - -Clerimbert _see_ Alpin. - -Cleves -_France_ - -French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. - -Cloves _see_ Nagelkaese. - -Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese -_U.S.A. and Canada_ - -Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, -but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by -an American company and is now all-American. - -Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very -ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp -Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and -mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are -getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. -All are described as "tangy." - -Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small -porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller -tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." - -Cocktail Cheeses - -Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" -stores: - -Argentine aged Gruyere -Canadian d'Oka -French Bleu -Brie -Camembert -Fontainebleu -Pont l'Eveque -Port du Salut -Roblochon -Roquefort -Grecian Feta -Hungarian Brinza -Polish Warshawski Syr -Rumanian Kaskaval -Swiss Schweizerkaese -American Cheddar in brandy -Hopi Indian - -Coeur a la Creme -_Burgundy, France_ - -This becomes Fromage a la Creme II (_see_) when served with sugar, and -it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that -romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. - -Coeurs d'Arras -_Artois, France_ - -These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with -the cream of Arras. - -Coffee-flavored cheese - -Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with -their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with -Jonchee cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving -by putting coffee in for flavor. - -Coimbra -_Portugal_ - -Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of -those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the -honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. - -Colby -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains -more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. - -College-educated - -Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their -colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another -called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big -cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in -Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with -one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of -high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe -the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign -imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in -this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of -Emmentaler. - -Colwick _see_ Slipcote. - -Combe-air -_France_ - -Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. - -Commission -_Holland_ - -Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in -color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight -pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. -It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. - -Compiegne -_France_ - -Soft - -Comte _see_ Gruyere. - -Conches -_France_ - -Emmentaler type. - -Condrieu, Rigotte de la -_Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ - -Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of -cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is -rich. - -Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. - -Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. - -Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot -_U.S.A._ - -Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool -it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. -Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is -stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It -is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned -out. - -All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk -flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to -white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, -with or without caraway, such as the following: - -Belgium--Kochtounkaese -Germany--Kochkaese, Topfen -Luxembourg--Kochenkaese -France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux -Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa - -Coon _see_ Chapter 4. - -Cornhusker -_U.S.A._ - -A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body -and more moisture. - -Cornimont -_Vosges, France_ - -A splendid French version of Alsatian Muenster spiked with caraway, in -flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Gerome -and the harvest cheese of Gerardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. - -Corse, Roquefort de -_Corsica, France_ - -Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of -course. - -Cossack -_Caucasus_ - -Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: -I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in - the salt bath. -II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. - -Cotherstone -_Yorkshire, England_ - -Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) - -Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. - -Cotta _see_ Pasta. - -Cottage cheese - -Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America -it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like -playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from -the German Schmierkaese. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, -together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania -Dutch cuisine. - -Cottenham or Double Cottenham -_English Midlands_ - -Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and -richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. - -Cottslowe -_Cotswold, England_ - -A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. -Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. - -Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) - -Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers -_France_ - -Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a -pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch -high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris -and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is -made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than -most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by -the avalanche of American summer tourists. - -Cow cheese - -Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying -word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkaese and Alt Kuhkaese: old cow -cheese. - -Cream cheese -_International_ - -England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins -with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool -in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild -strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also -drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small -molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the -following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: - -Cambridge -Cottslowe -Cornwall -Farm Vale -Guilford -Homer's -"Italian" -Lincoln -New Forest -Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) -St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) -Scotch Caledonian -Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) -Victoria -York - -Creme Chantilly _see_ Hable. - -Creme de Gien _see_ Fromage. - -Creme de Gruyere -_Franche-Comte France_ - -Soft Gruyere cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in -tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. - -Creme des Vosges -_Alsace, France_ - -Soft cream. Season October to April. - -Creme Double _see_ Double-Creme. - -Creme, Fromage a la _see_ Fromage. - -Creme, Fromage Blanc a la _see_ Fromage Blanc. - -Creme St Gervais _see_ Pots de Creme St Gervais. - -Cremet Nantais -_Lower Loire, France_ - -Soft fresh cream of Nantes. - -Cremets, les -_Anjou, France_ - -A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert -than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, -drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and -sugar. - -Cremini -_Italy_ - -Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the -way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of -musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. - -Creole -_Louisiana, U.S.A._ - -Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type -curd and rich cream. - -Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole -milk. Made from September to April. - -Creuse -_Creuse, France_ - -A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different -ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated -earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, -where it has drained for several days: - I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. -II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. - This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay - or Fromage de Foin.) - -Creusois, or Gueret -_Limousin, France_ - -Season, October to June. - -Croissant Demi-sel -_France_ - -Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. - -Crottin de Chavignol -_Berry, France_ - -Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April -to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. - -Crowdie, or Cruddy butter -_Scotland_ - -Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together -with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross -Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd -and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, -the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. - -Crying Kebbuck - -F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name -of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. - -Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. - -Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. - -Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. - -Cumin, Muenster au _see_ Muenster. - -Cup _see_ Koppen. - -Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. - -Curds and butter -_Arabia_ - -Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in -making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong -mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. - -Cure, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. - - -D - -Daisies, fresh - -A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. -Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use -for seasoning. - -Dalmatian -_Austria_ - -Hard ewe's-milker. - -Dambo -_Denmark_ - -Semihard and nutty. - -Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) -_Hungary_ - -Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular -Alpine snack in Viennese cafes with coffee gossip in the afternoon. - -Danish Blue -_Denmark_ - -Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of -Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is -exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although -it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of -Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and -definitely leads lesser Blues. - -Danish Export -_Denmark_ - -Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine -cheese, as many Danish exports are. - -Dansk Schweizerost -_Denmark_ - -Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. -Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. - -Danzig -_Poland_ - -A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, -Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. - -Darling -_U.S.A._ - -One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of -America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. - -Dauphin -_Flanders, France_ - -Season, November to May. - -d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. - -Daventry -_England_ - -A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" -veins of a darker green. - -Decize -_Nivernaise, France_ - -In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. - -de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. - -de Fontine -_Spain_ - -Crumbly, sharp, nutty. - -de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. - -de Gerardmer _see_ Recollet. - -Delft -_Holland_ - -About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) - -Delicieux - -The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. - -Delikat -_U.S.A._ - -A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Fruehstueck -original. (_See_.) - -de Lile, Boule - -French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. - -Demi-Etuve - -Half-size Etuve. (_See_.) - -Demi Petit Suisse - -The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the -Gros. - -Demi-Sel -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly -saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. - -Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. - -Derby, or Derbyshire -_England_ - -Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though -sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A -factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar -to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a -somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the -flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in -spite of its name. - -Devonshire cream and cheese -_England_ - -Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. -Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. -Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, -which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay -cheese. - -Dolce Verde -_Italy_ - -This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because -cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the -green-blues. - -Domaci Beli Sir -_Yugoslavia_ - -"Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical -ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. - -Domestic Gruyere -_U.S.A._ - -An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. - -Domestic Swiss -_U.S.A_ - -Same as domestic Gruyere, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous -150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is -there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. - -Domiati -_Egypt_ - -Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no -openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's -called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. - -Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny -_England_ - -Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. -"Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. -Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than -that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) - -Dotter -_Nuernberg, Germany_ - -An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nuernberg. He -enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual -way. When well ripened it is splendid. - -Doubles - -The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double -Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses -from which some of the cream has been removed. - -Double-cream -_England_ - -Similar to Wensleydale. - -Double-creme -_France_ - -There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is -richest in cream. The full name is Fromage a la Double-creme, and -Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season -and are much in demand. - -Dresdener Bierkaese -_Germany_ - -A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim -milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as -merely eaten. - -Drinking cheeses - -Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic -countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make -distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up -the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with -pepper sauce in some parts. - -Dry -_Germany_ - -From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. -"This cheese, known as Sperrkaese and Trockenkaese, is made in the small -dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It -is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in -the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other -purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle -which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is -thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked -quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed -are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then -placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready -for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) - -Dubreala _see_ Brina. - -Duel -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. - -Dunlop -_Scotland_ - -One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, -which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. -Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one -of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and -weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of -Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. - -Durak -_Turkey_ - -Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. - -Duralag, or Bgug-Panir -_Armenia_ - -Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy -with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days -to two months. - -Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. - -Dutch -_Holland_ - -Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. - -Dutch cheese - -American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. - -Dutch Cream Cheese -_England_ - -Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore -richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call -the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. - -Dutch Mill -_U.S.A._ - -A specialty of Oakland, California. - -Dutch Red Balls - -English name for Edam. - - -E - -Echourgnac, Trappe d' -_Perigord, France_ - -Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. - -Edam _see_ Chapter 3. - -Egg -_Finland_ - -Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. -Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that -these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by -their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen -their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all -Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of -them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. - -Elbinger, or Elbing -_West Prussia_ - -Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is -skimmed. Also known as Werderkaese and Niederungskaese. - -Ekiwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed -in. - -Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani -_Caucasus_ - -Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the -brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in -different locales. - -Elmo Table -_Italy_ - -Soft, mellow, tasty. - -Emiliano -_Italy_ - -Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. - -Emmentaler -_Switzerland_ - -There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the -world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese -listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter -3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) - -"En enveloppe" - -French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to -English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to -frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." - -Engadine -_Graubuenden, Switzerland_ - -Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. - -English Dairy -_England and U.S.A._ - -Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been -imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. - -Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. - -Epoisses, Fromage d' -_Cote d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ - -Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The -season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and -cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in -making _confits_ with that name. - -Erbo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out -both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. - -Erce -_Languedoc, France_ - -Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November -to May. - -Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. - -Ervy -_Champagne, France_ - -Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half -inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also -known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. - -Essex -_U.S.A._ - -Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. - -Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. - -Etuve and Demi-Etuve -_Holland_ - -Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season -all year. - -Evarglice -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sharp, nutty flavor. - -Excelsior -_Normandy, France_ - -Season all year. - - -F - -Factory Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp -Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too -tractable, in fact. - -Farm -_France_ - -Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage a la Pie (nothing to do with -apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. - -Farmer -_U.S.A._ - -This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, -fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, -or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the -oven. - -Farmhouse _see_ Herrgardsost. - -Farm Vale -_England_ - -Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, -eight to a box. - -Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. - -Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. - -Ferme _see_ Farm. - -Feta _see_ Chapter 3. - -Feuille de Dreux -_Bearn, France_ - -November to May. - -"Filled cheese" -_England_ - -Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese -business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to -make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed -the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in -America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. -But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many -foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony -fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up -coagulation. - -Fin de Siecle -_Normandy, France_ - -Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the -years at the close of the nineteenth century. - -Fiore di Alpe -_Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." - -Fiore Sardo -_Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully -cured. - -Flandre, Tuile de -_France_ - -A kind of Marolles. - -Fleur de Deauville -_France_ - -A type of Brie, in season December to May. - -Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. - -Floedeost -_Norway_ - -Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. - -Flotost -_Norway_ - -Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. -Similar to Mysost, but fatter. - -Flower -_England_ - -Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, -delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas -scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea -of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese -for them to import except bean curd. - -Fodder cheese - -A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. -Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or -barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. - -Foggiano -_Apulia, Italy_ - -A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. - -Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. - -Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. - -Fontainebleau -_France_ - -Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; -summer variety. - -Fontina -_Val d'Acosta, Italy_ - -Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. - -Fontine, de -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -A favorite all-year product. - -Fontinelli -_Italy_ - -Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. - -Fontini -_Parma, Italy_ - -Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same -region as Parmesan. - -Food cheese -_U.S.A._ - -An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese -content to flavor it. - -Forez, also called d'Ambert -_France_ - -The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening -unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six -inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the -cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. -Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The -flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From -_Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we -are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this -alphabet.) - -Formagelle -_Northwest Italy_ - -Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. - -Formaggi di Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming -and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it -into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, -Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. - -Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco -_Italy_ - -Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. -A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two -ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it -ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with -the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and -cinnamon. - -Formaggio d'Oro -_Northwest Italy_ - -Hard, sharp, mountain-made. - -Formaggio Duro (Dry) -and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. - -Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. - -Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome -_Auvergne, France_ - -This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where -many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as -Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Roche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert -and Cantal.) - -Fourme de Montebrison -_Auvergne, France_ - -This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. - -Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely -it is sometimes sold under that name. - -Fresa, or Pannedas -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. - -Fribourg -_Italy and Switzerland_ - -Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) - -Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese -_Holland_ - -Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is -made in winter, beginning in November. - -Friesian _see_ West Friesian. - -Fromage a la Creme -_France_ - - I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of - Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. - II. Franche-Comte--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, - whipped egg whites and sugar. -III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is - hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a - little fresh milk and served with cream. - IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket - for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur a la Creme, - heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. - -Fromage a la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm - -Fromage Bavarois a la Vanille -_France_ - -Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after -Bavaria where it probably originated. - -Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Soft cream or cottage cheese, called a la Pie, too, suggesting pie a -la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt -and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage a la -Creme, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, -except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and -called Fromage Blanc a la Creme. - -Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of -fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also -called Fromage de Cure. Other districts devoted to it are -Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. - -Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. - -Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) -_Thionville, Lorraine, France_ - -Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in -many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed -and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk -and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. - -Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. - -Fromage de Bayonne -_Bayonne, France_ - -Made with ewe's milk. - -Fromage de Boite -_Doubs, France_ - -Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Eveque. - -Fromage de Bourgogne - -_see_ Burgundy. - -Fromage de Chevre de Chateauroux -_Berry, France_ - -A seasonal goat cheese. - -Fromage de Cure _see_ Nantais. - -Fromage de Fontenay-le Comte -_Poitou, France_ - -Half goat and half cow milk. - -Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. - -Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncee. - -Fromage de St. Remy _see_ Chevrets. - -Fromage de Serac -_Savoy, France_ - -Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. - -Fromage de Troyes -_France_ - -Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) - -Fromage de Vache - -Another name for Autun. - -Fromage de Monsieur Fromage -_Normandy, France_ - -This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season -runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe -from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, -mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name -suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. -Chicken. - -Fromage Fort -_France_ - -Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the -department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth -and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After -being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, -salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before -fermenting some more. - -Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and -Fromagere of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all -France. - -_Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the -gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. - -_Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comte Small dry goat cheeses pounded -and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ -Hazebrook.) - -_Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In -production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with -brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. - -Fromage Gras (fat cheese) -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft, round, fat ball called _tete de mort_, "death's head." Winter -Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name -incited Victor Meusy to these lines: - - _Les gens a l'humeur morose - Prennent la Tete-de-Mort._ - - People of a morose disposition - Take the Death's Head. - -Fromage Mou - -Any soft cheese. - -Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. - -Fromagere _see_ Canquillote. - -Fromages de Chevre -_Orleanais, France_ - -Small, dried goat-milkers. - -Fruehstueck - -Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half -to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many -Germans and Americans break their fast. - -Ftinoporino -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. - - -G - -Gaiskaesli -_Germany and Switzerland_ - -A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three -inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half -pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the -whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt -the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. - -Gammelost -_Norway_ - -Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned -daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So -far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way -through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to -medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his -_Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the -ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of -eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi -flavored with cheese." - -Garda -_Italy_ - -Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town -on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious -little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the -moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. - -Garden -_U.S.A._ - -Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. - -Garlic -_U.S.A._ - -A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. - -Garlic-onion Link -_U.S.A._ - -A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, -nobody knows why. - -Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ - -Gautrias -_Mayenne, France_ - -Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. - -Gavot -_Hautes-Alpes, France_ - -A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. - -Geheimrath -_Netherlands_ - -A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep -yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight - -Gerardmer, de _see_ Recollet - -German-American adopted types - -Bierkaese -Delikat -Grinnen -Hand -Harzkaese -Kuemmelkaese -Koppen -Lager -Liederkranz -Mein Kaese -Muenster -Old Heidelberg -Schafkaese (sheep) -Silesian -Stein -Tilsit -Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgaeuer) - -Gerome, la -_Vosges, France_ - -Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Muenster, -but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. -It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. - -Gervais -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -Cream cheese like Neufchatel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. -Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. -Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. - -Gesundheitkaese, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. - -Getmesost -_Sweden_ - -Soft; goat; whey; sweet. - -Gex -_Pays de Gex, France_ - -Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from -November to May. - -Gex Marbre -_France_ - -A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, -mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues -family, that are green in spite of their name. - -Gien _see_ Fromage a la Creme. - -Gislev -_Scandinavia_ - -Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. - -Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made -with goat's milk. - -Glavis -_Switzerland_ - -The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) - -Glattkaese, or Gelbkaese -_Germany_ - -Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that -includes Olmuetzer Quargel. - -Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. - -Gloucester -_Gloucestershire, England_ - -There are two types: - I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six - months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of - flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure - its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply - to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you - then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the - praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." - _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by Andre L. Simon. -II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester - ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" - brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and - "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is - from an old vintage." - -Glumse -_West Prussia, Germany_ - -A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. - -Glux -_Nivernais, France_ - -Season, all year. - -Goat -_France_ - -A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. -Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled -dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants -smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, -goat cheese is always notable or noble. - -Gold-N-Rich -_U.S.A._ - -Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. -Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and -deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red -rind. - -Gomost -_Norway_ - -Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is -curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a -butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) - -Gorgonzola -_Italy_ - -Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is -White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by -local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. - -Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. - -Gouda, Kosher -_Holland_ - -The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit -more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the -Jewish authorities who prepare it. - -Goya -_Corrientes, Argentine_ - -Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses -the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes -Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. - -It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines -the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same -for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of -which excel the originals. - -Gournay -_Seine, France_ - -Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 -pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of -an inch thick and four inches long. - -Grana -_Italy_ - -Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that -the curd is cut into. - -Grana Lombardo -_Lombardy_ - -The same hard type for grating, named -after its origin in Lombardy. - -Grana Reggiano -_Reggio, Italy_ - -A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not -only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes -by a pet name of its own--Regianito. - -Grande Bornand, la -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. - -Gras, or Velvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tete de -Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of -Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tete de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras -is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France -and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) - -Gratairon -_France_ - -Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. - -Graubuenden -_Switzerland_ - -A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. - -Green Bay -_U.S.A._ - -Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the -Limburger county. - -Grey -_Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ - -Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. -Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. -It has a very pleasant taste. - -Gruyere _see_ Chapter 3. - -Guessing, or Land-l-kas -_Austria_ - -Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. - - -H - -Habas _see_ Caille. - -Hable Creme Chantilly -_Oesmo, Sweden_ - -Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old -Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and -sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big -city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the -finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. - -Hand _see_ Chapter 3. - -Hard -_Puerto Rico_ - -Dry; tangy. - -Harzkaese, Harz -_Harz Mountains, Germany_ - -Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying -from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little -boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like -Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. - -Harze -_Belgium_ - -Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery -at Harze. - -Hasandach -_Turkey_ - -Bland; sweet. - -Hauskaese. -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. Disk-shaped. - -Haute Marne -_France_ - -Soft; square. - -Hay, or Fromage au Foin -_Seine, France_ - -A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write -home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. - -Hazebrook - -There are two kinds: - - I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and - pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. - -II. Franche-Comte, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and - marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. - -Head - -Four cheeses are called Head: - -The French Death's Head. -Swiss Monk's Head. -Dutch Cat's Head. -Moor's Head. - -There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only -a cheese by discourtesy. - -Health _see_ Holstein. - -Herbesthal -_Germany_ - -Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. - -Herkimer -_U.S.A._ - -Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. - -Herrgardsost, Farm House or Manor House -_West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ - -Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. -Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden -and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. - -Herrgardstyp _see_ Hushallsost. - -Herve -_Belgium_ - -Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, -parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in -three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. - -Hickory Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. - -Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. - -Hohenheim -_Germany_ - -Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) - -Hoi Poi -_China_ - -Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. - -Hoja _see_ Queso de. - -Hollander -_North Germany_ - -Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. - -Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. - -Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner -_Germany_ - -Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. - -Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkaese -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a -little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into -half-pound molds and cooled. - -Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkaese -_Germany_ - -Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. - -Hop, Hopfen -_Germany_ - -Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal -beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. - -Hopi -_U.S.A._ - -Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the -Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. - -Horner's -_England_ - -An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce -originated. - -Horse Cheese - -Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of -the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. - -Hum -_Holland_ - -Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you -say "Ho-hum." - -Hushallsost, Household Cheese -_Sweden_ - -Popular in three types: -Herrgardstyp--Farmhouse -Vaestgoetatyp--Westgotland -Sveciatyp--Swedish - -Hvid Gjetost -_Norway_ - -A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of -Scandinavia. - - -I - -Icelandic - -In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is -like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like -the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. - -Ihlefield -_Mecklenburg, Germany_ - -A hand cheese. - -Ilha, Queijo de -_Azores_ - -Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, -measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, -_Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as -_Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their -cheeses. - -Imperial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. - -Imperial Club -_Canada_ - -Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien -Imperial. - -Incanestrato -_Sicily, Italy_ - -Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" -from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the -three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. - -Irish Cheeses - -Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named -after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, -Three Counties, etc. - -Isigny -_France_ - -Full name Fromage a la Creme d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The -American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt -to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be -closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) - -In France there is also Creme d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as -famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as -any cream can. - -Island of Orleans -_Canada_ - -This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by -early emigres, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orleans Island -in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, -Le Fromage Raffine de l'Ile d'Orleans, and lives up to the name -"refined." - - -J - -Jack _see_ Monterey. - -Jochberg -_Tyrol, Germany_ - -Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain -cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs -in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. - -Jonchee -_Santonge, France_ - -A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, -uniquely, black coffee. - -Josephine -_Silesia, Germany_ - -Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical -packages. - -Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. - -Julost -_Sweden_. - -Semihard; tangy. - -Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel -_France_ - -Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. - - -K - -Kaas, Oude -_Belgium_ - -Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. - -Kackavalj -_Yugoslavia_ - -Same as Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kaiser-kaese -_Germany_ - -This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still -made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, -yellow container of tang. - -Kajmar, or Serbian Butter -_Serbia and Turkey_ - -Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between -that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. - -Kamembert -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Camembert. - -Karaghi La-La -_Turkey_ - -Nutty and tangy. - -Kareish -_Egypt_ - -A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. - -Karut -_India_ - -Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. - -Karvi -_Norway_ - -Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. - -Kash -_Rumania_ - -Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. - -Kashcavallo, Caskcaval -_Greece_ - -A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. - -Kasher, or Caher, Penner -_Turkey_ - -Hard; white; sharp. - -Kash Kwan -_Bulgaria and the Balkans_ - -An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, -grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is -sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big -American cities. - -Kaskaval -_Rumania_ - -Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in -Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As -popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. - -Kasseri -_Greece_ - -Hard; ewe's milk, usually. - -Katschkawalj -_Serbia_ - -Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. - -Katzenkopf, Cat's Head -_Holland_ - -Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Kaukauna Club -_U.S.A._ - -Widely advertised processed cheese food. - -Kauna -_Lithuania_ - -A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. - -Kefalotir, Kefalotyi -_Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ - -Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or -ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or -Kefalo. - -Keg-ripened -_see_ Brand. - -King Christian IX -_Denmark_ -Sharp with caraway. Popular with -everybody. - -Kingdom Farm -_U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ -The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and -Muenster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky -enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not -available elsewhere. - -Kirgischerkaese _see_ Krutt. - -Kjarsgaard -_Denmark_ - -Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. - -Klatschkaese, Gossip Cheese -_Germany_ - -A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to -promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the -_Konditories_. - -Kloster, Kloster Kaese -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this -was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting -tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named -from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. - -Kochenkaese -_Luxembourg_ - -Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended -for diets. - -Koch Kaese -_Germany_ - -This translates "cooked cheese." - -Kochtounkaese -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. - -Kolos-monostor -_Rumania_ - -Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of -those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and -professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. - -Kolosvarer -_Rumania_ - -A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are -so many of the world's fine cheeses. - -Komijnekaas, Komynekass -_North Holland_ - -Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. - -Konigskaese -_Germany_ - -A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. - -Kopanisti -_Greece_ - -Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. - -Koppen, Cup, or Bauden -_Germany_ - -Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape -and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. -Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. - -Korestin -_Russia_ - -Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. - -Kosher - -This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to -Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish -authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) - -Krauterkaese -_Brazil_ - -Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the -Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss -Krauterkaese even though it is processed. - -Kreuterkaese, Herb Cheese -_Switzerland_ - -Hard, grating cheese flavored with -herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkaese. - -Krutt, or Kirgischerkaese -_Asian Steppes_ - -A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, -from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and -pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. - -Kuehbacher -_Bavaria_ - -Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, -where it is made. - -Kuminost -_Norway_ - -Semihard; caraway-seeded. - -Kumminost -_Sweden_ - -This is Bondost with caraway added. - -Kummin Ost -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin -where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. - -Kuemmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas -_Holland_ - -Caraway-seeded and named. - -Kuemmelkaese -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese has made a name for -itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to -imported kuemmel liqueur. - - -L - -Labneh -_Syria_ - -Sour-milk. - -La Foncee, or Fromage de Pau -_France_ - -Cream cheese. - -Lager Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is -more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. - -Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole -_Aveyron, France_ - -An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman -occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full -season from November to May. - -Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray -_Poitou_ - -Goat cheese made from May to November. - -Lancashire, or Lancaster -_North England_ - -White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. -It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in -the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. -It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of -different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. -Deep orange in color. - -Land-l-kas, or Guessing -_Austria_ - -Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. - -Langlois Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly -compete with Roquefort. - -Langres -_Haute-Marne, France_ - -Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, -high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, -said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. -Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two -pounds. Consumed mostly at home. - -Lapland -_Lapland_ - -Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and -flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. - -Laredo -_Mexico_ - -Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. - -Larron -_France_ - -A kind of Maroilles. - -Latticini -_Italy_ - -Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. - -Laumes, les -_Burgundy, France_ - -Made from November to July. - -Lauterbach -_Germany_ - -Breakfast cheese - -Leaf _see_ Tschil. - -Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy -_Germany_ - -A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great -_milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point -in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick -and stirred with a Danish stirrer." - -Lebanie -_Syria_ - -Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. - -Lecco, Formaggini di -_Italy_ - -Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese -family as big as the human family of most Italians. - -Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. - -LeGueyin -_Lorraine, France_ - -Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper -make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. - -Leicester -_England_ - -Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty -pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With -Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. - -An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made -for each other." - -Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. - -Leonessa - -A kind of Pecorino. - -Leroy -_U.S.A._ - -Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. - -Lerroux -_France_ - -Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or -winter months. - -Lescin -_Caucasus_ - -Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into -a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken -up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But -after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing -two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and -wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. - -The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine -in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as -in many wild and mountainous parts. - -Les Petits Bressans -_Bresse, France_ - -Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump -pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in -fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. - -Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. - -Le Vacherin - -Name given to two entirely different varieties: - I. Vacherin a la Main -II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) - -Levroux -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to December. - -Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese -_Holland_ - -Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of -Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made -on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory -product. - -Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. - -Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Lincoln -_England_ - -Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where -there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big -break for most natural cheeses. - -Lindenhof -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. - -Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu -_Hungary_ - -A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from -which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name -for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk -and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most -sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour -milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." -(_See_ Chapter 3.) - -Lipto -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both -Liptauer and Brinza. - -Little Nippy -_U.S.A._ - -Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to -"slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no -matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. - -Livarot -_Calvados, France_ - -Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, -fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the -same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months -when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six -by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of -caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By -June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early -in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the -cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and -help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, -piquant Livarot. - -Livlander -_Russia_ - -A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese -itself is red, not the rind. - -Locatelli -_Italy_ - -A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. - -Lodigiano, or Lombardo -_Lodi, Italy_ - -Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; -surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan -but not as fine in quality. - -Longhorn -_Wisconsin, U.S.A._ - -This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long -horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn -breed of cow that furnished the makings. - -Lorraine -_Lorraine, Germany_ - -Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio -nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce -portions that bring a very high price. - -Lumburger -_Belgium_ - -Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because -it has no odor. - -Lunch -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -The same as Breakfast and Fruehstueck. A Limburger type of eye-opener. - -Lueneberg -_West Austria_ - -Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as -Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a -character of its own. - -Luxembourg -_U.S.A._ - -Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. - - -M - -Maconnais -_France_ - -Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. - -Macqueline -_Oise, France_ - -Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper -price. - -Madridejos -_Spain_ - -Named for Madrid where it is made. - -Magdeburger-kuhkaese -_Germany_ - -"Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. - -Magerkaese _see_ Holstein Skim Milk - -Maggenga, Sorte -_Italy_ - -A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. - -Maguis -_Belgium_ - -Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. - -Maigre -_France_ - -A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras -and spring Migras. - -Maile -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine -bath where it stays sometimes a year. - -Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) -_Crimea_ - -Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. - -Mainauer -_German_ - -Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three -pounds. - -Mainzer Hand -_German_ - -Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for -quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in -kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in -making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. - -Majocchino -_Sicily, Italy_ - -An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, -sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of -Incanestrato. - -Malakoff -_France_ - -A form of Neufchatel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or -ripe. - -Manicamp -_French Flanders_ - -In season from October to July. - -Mano, Queso de -_Venezuela_ - -A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. -(_See_ Venezuelan.) - -Manor House _see_ Herrgardsost. - -Manteca, Butter -_Italy_ - -Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering -of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual -for any Italian cheese. - -Manur, or Manuri -_Yugoslavia_ - -Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers -can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added -with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and -allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and -dried." - -Maquee -_Belgium_ - -Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. - -Marches -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk; hard. - -Margarine -_England_ - -An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. - -Margherita -_Italy_ - -Soft; cream; small. - -Marienhofer -_Austria_ - -Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; -weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. - -Maerkisch, or Maerkisch Hand -_Germany_ - -Soft; smelly; hand type. - -Maroilles, Marolles, Marole -_Flanders, France_ - -Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Eveque and Limburger. -Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five -inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. - -Martha Washington Aged Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in -Chapter 4.) - -Mascarpone, or Macherone -_Italy_ - -Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in -muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. - -McIntosh -_Alaska_ - -An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and -described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at -times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar -Box_ by Dean Collins. - -McLaren's -_U.S.A._ - -Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in -Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. - -Meadowbloom -_U.S.A._ - -Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. - -Mecklenburg Skim -_Germany_ - -No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. - -Meilbou -_France_ - -Made in the Champagne district. - -Mein Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. - -Melfa -_U.S.A._ - -Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half -moons. - -Melun -_France_ -Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de -Melun. - -Mentelto -_Italy_ -Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains - -Merignac -_France_ -Goat. - -Merovingian -_Northeast France_ -Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the -Merovingian kings. - -Mersem -_France_ -Lightly cooked. - -Mesitra -_Crimea_ -Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. - -Mesost -_Sweden_ -Whey; sweetish. - -Metton -_Franche-Comte, France_ -Season October to June. - -Meuse -_France_ -Soft; piquant; aromatic. - -Midget Salami Provolone -_U.S.A._ -This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, -too. - -Mignot -_Calvados, France_ -_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season -only in summer, April to September. - -_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only -seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Eveque and -popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados -cider, fresh, hard or distilled. - -Migras - -Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin -summer Maigre. - -Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo -_Italy_ - -Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches -thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. - -Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. - -Millefiori -_Milan, Italy_ - -A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no -cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. - -Milltown Bar -_U.S.A._ - -Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. - -Milk cheeses - -Milks that make cheese around the world: - -Ass -Buffalo -Camel -Chamois -Elephant -Goat -Human (_see_ Mother's milk) -Llama -Mare -Reindeer -Sea cow (Amazonian legend) -Sheep -Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) -Yak -Zebra -Zebu - -U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange -animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. - -Milwaukee Kuemmelkaese -and Hand Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and -successfully imitated. - -Minas -_Brazil_ - -Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. -Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands -are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss -professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the -State Capital, Bello Horizonte. - -Minnesota Blue -_U.S.A._ - -A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, -Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals -to be proud of. - -Mintzitra -_in Macedonia; and_ -Mitzithra -_in Greece_ - -Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep -cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. - -Modena, Monte -_U.S.A._ - -Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. - -Mohawk Limburger -Spread -_U.S.A._ - -A brand that comes in one-pound jars. - -Moliterno -_Italy_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ - -Monceau -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard, similar to Maroilles. - -Moncenisio -_Italy_ - -Similar to Gorgonzola. - -Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkaese, Mondseer Schlosskaese -_Austria_ - -This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the -Muenster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch -of the Limburgers. - -The Schachtelkaese is named from the wooden boxes in which it is -shipped, while the Schlosskaese shows its class by being called Castle -Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of -whole milk. - -Money made of cheese -_China_ - -In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is -a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, -writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, -1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some -thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the -field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as -'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other -commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading -medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was -sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for -other articles of service." - -Monk's Head _see_ Tete de Moine. - -Monostorer -_Transylvania, Rumania_ - -Ewe's milk. - -Monsieur -_France_ - -Soft; salted; rich in flavor. - -Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. - -Montana -_Catalonia_ - -A mountain cheese. - -Montasio -_Austria and Italy_ - -Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is -often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both -fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and -sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve -months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely -imitated in America. - -Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de -_Brittany, France_ - -A celebrated cheese of Brittany. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the -_Achittea_ family. - -Mont Blanc -_France_ - -An Alpine cheese. - -Mont Cenis -_Southeastern France_ -Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is -semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and -Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and -sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy -bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing -twenty-five pounds. - -Mont-des-Cats -_French Flanders_ - -Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. - -Montdidier -_France_ - -A fresh cream. - -Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore -_Lyonnais, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone -Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to -Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Eveque but more delicate than -either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best -is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. -Didier. - -Montavoner -_Austria_ - -A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. - -Monterey -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in -California and along the Mexican border. - -Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. - -Monthery -_Seine-et-Oise, France_ - -Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, -weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color -in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. - -Montpellier -_France_ - -Sheep. - -Moravian -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Semihard and sharp. - -Morbier -_Bresse, France_ - -In season from November to July. - -Mostoffait -_France_ - -A little-known product of Champagne. - -Mother's milk - -In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des -Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts -the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was -so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." -All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it -was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, -"Then all of us are cannibals." - -Mountain -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; yellow; sharp. - -Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. - -Mount Hope -_U.S.A._ - -Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. - -Mouse or Mouse Trap -_U.S.A._ - -Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade -store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, -however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. - -Mozzarella -_Italy_ - -Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white -cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a -half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at -Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like -Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is -imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. - -Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza -_Italy_ - -Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of -about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. - -Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true -Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. - -Mozzarinelli -_Italy_ - -A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. - -Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. - -Muenster -_Germany_ - -German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to -Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; -whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to -strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. -Best in winter season, from November to April. - -Muenster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and -French. Gerome is a standard French type of it, with a little longer -season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise -seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is -served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. - -In Alsace, Muenster is made plain and also under the name of Muenster au -Cumin because of the caraway. - -American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They -are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. - -Mustard -_U.S.A._ - -A processed domestic, Gruyere type. - -Myjithra - -Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. - -Mysost, Mytost -_Scandinavia_ - -Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey -cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, -instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. -Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are -cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. - - -N - -Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland -_Austria_ - -Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, -in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. - -Nantais, or Fromage du Cure, Cheese of the Curate -_Brittany, France_ - -A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. - -Nessel -_England_ - -Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. - -Neufchatel, or Petit Suisse -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Imperial, Bondon, and Chapter -9. - -New Forest -_England_ - -Cream cheese from the New Forest district. - -Nieheimer -_Westphalia, Germany_ - -Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. -Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both -beer and hops in one cheese is unique. - -Niolo -_Corsica_ - -In season from October to May. - -Noekkelost or Noegelost -_Norway_ - -Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a -Gouda. - -Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" -_U.S.A._ - -Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, -perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. - -Nordost -_Sweden_ - -Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. - -North Wilts -_Wiltshire, England_ - -Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small -size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. - -Nostrale -_Northwest Italy_ - -An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: - I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring - when the cows are in the valley. -II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk - from lush mountain-grazing. - -Notruschki (cheese bread) -_Russia_ - -Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. - -Nova Scotia Smoked -_U.S.A._ - -The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia -manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to -give the luxurious flavor. - -Nuworld -_U.S.A._ - -This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a -brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, -heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and -flavor. - -A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new -species or not. - - -O - -Oaxaca -_see_ Asadero. - -Oka, or La Trappe -_Canada_ - -Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada -after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ -Trappe. - -Old English Club -_U.S.A._ - -Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. - -Old Heidelberg -_U.S.A._ - -Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. - -Oleron Isle, Fromage d'Ile -_France_ - -A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oleron. - -Olive Cream -_U.S.A._ - -Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos -for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American -taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma -olives and Feta sheep cheese. - -Olivet -_Orleans, France_ - -Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: - I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. - II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. -III. Olivet-Cendre, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. - -Olmuetzer Quargel, also Olmuetzer Bierkaese -_Austria_ - -Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 -of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen -into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A -dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop -into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. - -Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour -_Bearn, France_ - -In season from October to May. - -Onion with garlic links -_U.S.A_ - -Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. - -Oporto -_Portugal_ - -Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. - -Orkney -_Scotland_ - -A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat -bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch -country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell -have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. - -Orleans -_France_ - -Named after the Orleans district Soft; creamy; tangy. - -Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach -_Caucasus_ - -Comes in two forms: - I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. -II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of - sheep milk is the better. - -Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka -_Czechoslovakia_ - -Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this -type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. - -Oswego -_U.S.A._ - -New York State Cheddar of distinction. - -Oude Kaas -_Belgium_ - -Popular in France as Boule de Lille. - -Oust, Fromage de -_Roussillon, France_ - -Of the Camembert family. - -Ovar -_Hungarian_ - -Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild -but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. - -Oveji Sir -_Yugoslavian Alpine_ - -Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. -Weight six to ten pounds. - -Oxfordshire -_England_ - -An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan -Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: - "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, - pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' - - "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' - - "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the - coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your - lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" - - -P - -Pabstett -_U.S.A_ - -The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although -beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has -long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste -to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular -beer. - -Packet cheese -_England_ - -This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package -or packet it comes in. - -Paglia -_Switzerland_ - -Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A -Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because -in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a -foreign type. - -Pago -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in -weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. - -Paladru -_Savoy, France_ - -In season from November to May. - -Palpuszta -_Hungary_ - -Fairly strong Limburger type. - -Pannarone -_Italy_ - -Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. - -Parenica -_Hungary_ - -Sheep. Caciocavallo type. - -Parmesan, Parmigiano -_Italy_ - -The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the -world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with -the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta -al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in -a mortar with a pestle. - -Passauer Rahmkaese, Creme de Passau -_German_ - -Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Creme de Passau. - -Pasta Cotta -_Italy_ - -The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. - -Pasta Filata -_Italy_ - -A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which -Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) - -Pasteurized Process Cheese Food -_U.S.A._ - -This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had -Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world -of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. - -Pastorella -_Italy_ - -Soft, rich table cheese. - -Patagras -_Cuba_ - -Similar to Gouda. - -Pecorino -_Italy_ - -Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. - -Pelardon de Rioms -_Languedoc, France_ - -A goat cheese in season from May to November. - -Peneteleu -_Rumania_ - -One of the international Caciocavallo family. - -Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album - -Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd -destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that -impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second -spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. - -Pennich -_Turkey_ - -Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. - -Pennsylvania Hand Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever -since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or -cooked. - -Penroque -_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ - -Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ -and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal -condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of -Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of -mother cow than mother nature. - -Pepato -_Italy_ - -Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine -for fire-eaters. - -An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. - -Persille de Savoie -_Savoie, France_ - -In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner -similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. - -Petafina, La -_Dauphine, France_ - -Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, -plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. - -Petit Carre -_France_ - -Fresh, unripened Ancien Imperial. - -Petit Gruyere -_Denmark_ - -Imitation Gruyere, pasteurized, processed and made almost -unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also -packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen -cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of -several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at -home. - -Petit Moule -_Ile-de-France, France_ - -A pet name for Coulommiers. - -Petit Suisse -_France_ - -Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchatel and similar to -Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: - Gros--a largest cylinder - Demi--a small one - -Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised -its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, -Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is -ideal with honey. - -Petit Vacher -_France_ - -"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. - -Petits Bourgognes -_Lower Burgundy, France_ - -Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning -with B are Banons and Bressans. - -Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les -_France_ - -Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. - -Petits Fromages de Chevre -_France_ - -Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of -Provence. - -Petits Pots de Caille de Poitiers -_Poitou, France_ - -Clotted milk in small pots. - -Pfister -_Cham, Switzerland_ - -Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh -skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to -manufacture it, in Chain. - -Philadelphia Cream -_U.S.A._ - -An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. -Made in New York State in spite of its name. - -Picnic -_U.S.A._ - -Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long -been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. - -Picodon de Dieule Fit -_Dauphine, France_ - -In season from May to December. - -Pie, Fromage a la -_France_ - -Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese -type. - -Pie Cheese -_U.S.A_ - -An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in -wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And -by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to -find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being -wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind -on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make -processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying -word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged -nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" -out of a processed "Cheddar." - -Pimiento -_U.S.A._ - -Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland -national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchatel, cream, club or -cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old -Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that -equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. - -Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. - -Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. - -Piora -_Tessin, Switzerland_ - -Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. - -Pippen -_U.S.A._ - -Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll - -Pithiviers au Foin -_France_ - -Orleans variety ripened on hay from October to May. - -Poitiers -_France_ - -Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. - -Pommel -_France_ - -All year. Double cream; unsalted. - -Ponta Delgada -_Azores_ - -Semifirm; delicate; piquant - -Pontgibaud -_France_ - -Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. - -Pont l'Eveque - -Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like -Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The -Inquisitive Cow." - -Poona -_U.S.A._ - -Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in -two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature -before serving. - -Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. - -Port, Blue Links -_U.S.A._ - -"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. - -Pot cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite -for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and -macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the -sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. -Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. - -Potato -_Germany and U.S.A._ - -Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes -added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the -potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die -curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two -of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. -The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a -fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered -with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen -for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is -probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a -period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it -appears to be the same." -From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. - -Potato Pepper -_Italy_ - -Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, -only not so stony hard. - -Pots de Creme St. Gervais -_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ - -The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both -as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. - -Pouligny-St. Pierre -_Touraine, France_ - -A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to -December. - -Poustagnax, le -_France_ - -A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. - -Prato -_Brazil_ - -Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland -Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named -not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from -whence it was borrowed long ago. - -Prattigau -_Switzerland_ - -Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home -valley. - -Prestost or Saaland Flarr -_Sweden_ - -Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, -packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed -daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. - -Primavera, Spring -_Minas Geraes, Brazil_ - -Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like -fragrance. - -Primost -_Norway_ - -Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. - -Primula -_Norway_ - -A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyere, mild table cheese imitate in -Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with -caraway added. - -Processed -_U.S.A._ - -From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by -emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic -mass. - -Promessi -_Italy_ - -Small soft-cream cheese. - -Provatura -_Italy_ - -A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for -a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. - -Providence -_France_ - -Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. - -Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and -Provolino -_Italy_ - -All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and -appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the -U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. - -Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in -the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, -Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to -four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with -huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all -sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that -are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. - -P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit -_Lorraine, France_ - -Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. - -Puant Macere -_Flanders_ - -"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November -to June. - -Pultost or Knaost -_Norway_ - -Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. - -Pusztador -_Hungary_ - -Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. - -Pyrenees, Fromage des -_France_ - -A fine mountain variety. - - -Q - -Quartiolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September -and November. - -Quacheq -_Macedonia, Greece_ - -Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. - -Quargel _see_ Olmuetzer. - -Quartirolo -_Italy_ - -Soft, cow's milk. - -Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal -_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitao, Cardiga, -Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. - -Queso Anejo -_Mexico_ - -White, dry, skim milk. - -Queso de Bola -_Mexico_ - -Whole milk, similar to Edam. - -Queso de Cavallo -_Venezuela_ - -Pear-shaped cheese. - -Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. - -Queso de Cincho -_Venezuela_ - -Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. - -Queso de Crema -_Costa Rica_ - -Similar to soft Brick. - -Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese -_Puerto Rico_ - -Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. - -Queso de Mano -_Venezuela_ - -Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. - -Queso del Fais, Queso de la Tierra -_Puerto Rico_ - -White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, - -Queso de Prensa -_Puerto Rico_ - -The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after -ripening two or three months. - -Queso de Puna -_Puerto Rico_ - -Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. - -Queso de Tapara -_Venezuela_ - -Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and -tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the -time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno -Provecho._ - -Queso Fresco -_El Salvador_ - -Cottage-cheese type. - -Queville _see_ Chapter 3. - -Queyras _see_ Champoleon. - - -R - -Rabacal -_Coimbra, Portugal_ - -Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in -diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. - -Rabbit Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. - -Radener -_Germany_ - -Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by -four inches, weight 32 pounds. - -Radolfzeller Cream -_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ - -Similar to Muenster. - -Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. - -Rahmkaese, Allgaeuer -_German_ - -Cream. - -Rainbow -_Mexico_ - -Mild; mellow. - -Ramadoux -_Belgium_ - -Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Herve - -Rammil or Rammel -_England_ - -Andre Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also -called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically -unobtainable today. - -Rangiport -_France_ - -A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. - -Rarush Durmar -_Turkey_ - -Brittle; mellow; nutty. - -Raecherkaese - -The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very -popular. - -Raviggiolo -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. - -Rayon or Raper -_Switzerland_ - -A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is -hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. - -Reblochon or Roblochon -_Savoy_ - -Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to -two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. - -Recollet de Gerardmer -_Vosges, France_ - -A harvest variety similar to Gerome, made from October to April - -Red -_Russia_ - -_see_ Livlander. - -Red Balls -_Dutch_ - -_see_ Edam. - -Reggiano _see_ Grana. - -Regianito -_Argentine_ - -Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere -imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. - -Reichkaese -_German_ - -Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. - -Reindeer -_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ - -In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk -It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is -curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. - -Relish cream cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. - -Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant -_Belgium_ - -The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it -is. The season is winter, from November to June. - -Requeijao -_Portugal and Brazil_ - -Recooked. - -Resurrection _see_ Welsh. - -Rhubarbe -_France_ - -A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our -pie plant. - -Riceys _see_ Champenois. - -Ricotta Romano -_Italy_ - -Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, -piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, -sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. - -Ricotta -_Italy and U.S.A._ - -Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, -blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and -rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, -some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor -substitute whey cheese. - -Ricotta Salata - -Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and -too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. - -Riesengebirge -_Bohemia_ - -Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's -northern mountains. - -Rinnen -_Germany_ - -This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named -from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. - -Riola -_Normandy, France_ - -Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to -ripen, two to three months. - -Robbiole -Robbiola -Robbiolini -_ Lombardy_ -_ Italian_ - -Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine -quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to -two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at -just under four ounces. - -Roblochon, le - -Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried -sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. - -Rocamadur -_Limousin, France_ - -Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. - -Rocroi -_France_ - -From the Champagne district. - -Rokadur -_Yugoslavia_ - -Imitation Roquefort. - -Roll -_England_ - -Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. - -Rollot or Rigolot -_Picardy and Montdidier, France_ - -Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but -much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only -cheese. - -Roma -_Italy_ - -Soft cream. - -Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings -_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ - -A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is -not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is -scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. - -Romano, Romano Vacchino -_Italy_ - -Strong: flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. - -Romanello -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating -cheese, cured one year. - -Roquefort -_France_ - -King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_ -Chapter 3. - -Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled -_U.S.A._ - -Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead -of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, -mustard, flour and spice oil. - -Roquefort de Corse -_Corsica, France_ - -This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep -milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. - -Roquefort de Tournemire -_France_ - -Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal -Roquefort name. - -Rougerets, les -_Lyonnais, France_ - -A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically -every variety is made with goat milk. - -Rouennais -_France_ - -This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten -from October to May. - -Round Dutch -_Holland_ - -An early name for Edam. - -Rouy, le -_Normandy, France_ - -From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. - -Royal Brabant -_Belgium_ - -Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. - -Royal Sentry -_Denmark_ - -Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't -yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American -one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its -ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe -(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese -whey solids and disodium phosphate. - -Ruffec, Fromage de -_Saintonge, France_ - -Fresh; goat. - -Runesten -_Denmark and U.S.A._ - -Similar to Herrgardsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three -pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. - -Rush Cream Cheese -_England and France_ - -Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but -from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and -sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are -collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, -covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer -and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then -increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily -until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the -fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape -baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup -new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one -teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty -drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place -until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the -straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The -mats or baskets should not be used a second time. - - -S - -Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost -_Sweden_ - -Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with -whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with -whiskey. - -Saanen -_Switzerland_ - -Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest -cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as -Hartkaese, Reibkaese and Walliskaese, it came to fame in the sixteenth -century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. -It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and -then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds -and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for -ripening is six years, but some take nine. - -Sage, or Green cheese -_England_ - -This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the -U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the -method described in Chapter 4. - -Saint-Affrique -_Guyenne, France_ - -This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives -up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local -renown. - -We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the -host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped -abroad. - -Saint-Agathon -_Brittany, France_ - -Season, October to July. - -Saint-Amand-Montrond -_Berry, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Benoit -_Loiret, France_ - -Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt -rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to -fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about -six inches in diameter. - -Saint-Claude -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half -pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is -then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. - -Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. - -Saint-Florentin -_Burgundy, France_ - -A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. - -Saint-Flour -_Auvergne, France_ - -Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. - -Saint-Gelay -_Poitou, France_ - -Made from goat's milk. - -Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais -_see_ Pots de Creme. - -Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. - -Saint-Honore -_Nivernais, France_ - -A small goat cheese. - -Saint-Hubert -_France_ - -Similar to Brie. - -Saint-Ivel -_England_ - -Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. -Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with -_Bacillus Bulgaricus._ - -Saint-Laurent -_Roussillon, France_ - -Mountain sheep cheese. - -Saint-Lizier -_Bearn, France_ - -A white, curd cheese. - -Saint-Loup, Fromage de -_Poitou and Vendee, France_ - -Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September - -Saint-Marcellin -_Dauphine, France_ - -One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, -weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. -Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially -a goat cheese. - -Saint-Moritz -_Switzerland_ - -Soft and tangy. - -Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre -_Auvergne, France_ - -Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. - -Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. - -Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. - -Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. - -Saint-Remy, Fromage de -_Haute-Saone, France_ - -Soft Pont l'Eveque type. - -Saint-Stefano -_German_ - -Bel Paese type. - -Saint-Winx -_Flanders, France_ - -The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian -border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. - -Sainte-Anne d'Auray -_Brittany, France_ - -A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. - -Sainte-Marie -_Franche-Comte, France_ - -A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. - -Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine -_France_ - -Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valencay. - -Salamana -_Southern Europe_ - -Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. -It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix -with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. - -Salame -_France_ - -Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. -Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in -Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has -became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout -America. - -Salers, Bleu de -_France_ - -One of the very good French Blues. - -Saligny -_Champagne, France_ - -White cheese made from sheep's milk. - -Saloio -_Lisbon, Portugal_ - -An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 -to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near -the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. - -Salonite -_Italy_ - -Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. - -Saltee -_Ireland_ - -Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as -Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its -name implies. - -Salt-free cheese, for diets - -U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkaese. - -Samsoe -_Denmark_ - -Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet -cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. - -Sandwich Nut - -An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchatel. - -Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. - -Sardegna -_Sardinia_ - -A Romano type made in Sardinia. - -Sardinian -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. - -Sardo -_Sardinia, Italy_ - -Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. -There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. - -Sarraz or Sarrazin -_Vaud, Switzerland_ - -Roquefort type. - -Sassenage -_Dauphiny, France_ - -Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of -Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the -three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented -variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. - -Satz -_Germany_ - -Hard cheese made in Saxony. - -Savoy, Savoie -_France_ - -Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. - -Sbrinz -_Argentine_ - -Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. - -Scanno -_Abruzzi, Italy_ - -Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened -rind, deep yellow interior. - -Scarmorze or Scamorze -_Italy_ - -Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being -made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang -from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine -when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. -Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in -Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. - -Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. - -Schafkaese (Sheep Cheese) -_Germany_ - -Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. - -Schamser, or Rheinwald -_Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland_ - -Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six -pounds. - -Schlickermilch - -This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, -sour milk "waddle" cheese. - -Schlesische Sauermilchkaese -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered -shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in -summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three -to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. - -Schlesischer Weichquarg -_Silesia, Poland_ - -Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100 deg. for a short -time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded -and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply -flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand -cheese odor develops. - -Schloss, Schlosskaese, or Bismarck -_German_ - -This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of -his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic -Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. - -Schmierkaese - -German cottage cheese that becomes -smearcase in America. - -Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. - -Schoenland -_German_ - -Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." - -Schuetzenkaese -_Austria_ - -Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces -and wrapped in tin foil. - -Shottengsied -_Alpine_ - -A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. - -Schwarzenberger -_Hungary and Bohemia_ - -One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to -ripen. - -Schweizerkaese -_Switzerland_ - -German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) - -Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese -_Denmark_ - -A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing -wonderful. - -Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. - -Selles-sur Cher -_Berry, France_ - -A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. - -Senecterre -_Puy-de-Dome, France_ - -Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. - -Septmoncel -_France_ - -Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and -sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to -Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk -triplets with Gex and Sassenage. - -Serbian -_Serbia_ - -Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk -over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an -hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth -and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it -is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally -with fresh milk for six. - -Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is -semisoft. - -Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. - -Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) -_Portugal_ - -The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other -milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated -by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is -ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds -averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside -is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. - -Sharp-flavored cheese - -U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, -Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de -Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. - -Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. - -Silesian -_Poland and Germany_ - -White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) - -Sir cheeses - -In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. -Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or -holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and -Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. - -Sir Iz Mjesine -_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ - -Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open -fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the -curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. -Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is -dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, -packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. - -Sir Mastny -_Montenegro_ - -Fresh sheep milk. - -Sir Posny -_Montenegro_ - -Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to -the names of Tord and Mrsav. - -Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. - -Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. - -Siraz -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. - -Skyr -_Iceland_ - -The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire -cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well -liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the -subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not -advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before -riding, as it gives you diarrhea." - -Slipcote, or Colwick -_England_ - -Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in -forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is -placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it -is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily -slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it -was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as -today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. - -Smaeltost -_Sweden_ - -Soft and melting. - -Smearcase - -Old English corruption of German Schmierkaese, long used in America for -cottage cheese. - -Smoked Block -_Austria_ - -A well-smoked cheese in block form. - -Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. - -Smoked Szekely -_Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. - -Smokelet -_Norway_. - -A small smoked cheese. - -Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. - -Sorbais -_Champagne, France_ - -Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full -flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, -but smaller. - -Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga - -Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. - -Soumaintrain, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Soybean -_China_ - -Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with -a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our -occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese -and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. - -Spalen or Stringer -_Switzerland_ - -A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of -Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the -vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. - -Sperrkaese _see_ Dry. - -Spiced -_International_ - -Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, -to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and -thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes -the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in -English and several other languages, among them Kuemmel, Nokkelost and -Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; -whole black pepper Pepato, etc. - -Spiced and Spiced Spreads -_U.S.A._ - -Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less -than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. - -Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. -_France_ - -Spitz Spitzkase -_Germany_ - -Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, -Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. - -Sposi -_Italy_ - -Soft; small; cream. - -Spra -_Greek_ - -Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in -one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made -principally from sheep milk. - -Staengenkase -_Germany_ - -Limburger type. - -Stein Kaese -_U.S.A._ - -Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after -the old German original. - -Steinbuscher-Kaese -_German_ - -Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, -reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at -home but little known abroad. - -Steppe -_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ - -German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it -tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as -in Germany and Austria for home consumption. - -Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. - -Stirred curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed -younger. - -Stracchino -_Italy_ - -Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and -pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A -fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter -3. Also see Certoso Stracchino. - -Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of -this distinguished family. - -Stravecchio -_Italy_ - -Well-aged, according to the name. -Creamy and mellow. - -Stringer _see_ Spalen. - -Styria -_Austria_ - -Whole milk. Cylindrical form. - -Suffolk -_England_ - -An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk" -cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has -stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty -hardness. - - "Hunger will break through stone walls and anything - except a Suffolk cheese." - - "Those that made me were uncivil - For they made me harder than the devil. - Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me; - Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me." - -Surati, Panir -_India_ - -Buffalo milk. Uncolored. - -Suraz -_Serbia_ - -Semihard and semisoft. - -Sveciaost -_Sweden_ - -A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match -Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full -cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six -weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk, -wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as -most _osts_ are. - -Sweet-curd -_U.S.A._ - -Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd -cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe, -however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by -the granular process. - -Swiss -_U.S.A._ - -In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus, -Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling -their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever -since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their -standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had -competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical -cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler. - -Szekely -_Transylvania, Hungary_ - -Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is -the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American -processed links, with wine flavors and everything. - - -T - -Taffel, Table, Taffelost -_Denmark_ - -A Danish brand name for an ordinary -slicing cheese. - -Tafi -_Argentina_ - -Made in the rich province of Tucuman. - -Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de -_Perigord, France_ - -Very small and tasty goat cheese. - -Taleggio -_Lombardy, Italy_ - -Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type. - -Tallance -_France_ - -Goat. - -Tamie -_France_ - -Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is -more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced -not far away. - -Tanzenberger -_Carinthia, Austria_ - -Limburger type. - -Tao-foo or Tofu -_China, Japan, the Orient_ - -Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are -ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch -dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is -coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the -same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After -being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and -added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is. - -Teleme -_Rumania_ - -Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of -sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days. - -Terzolo -_Italy_ - -Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter. - -Tete a Tete, Tete de Maure, Moor's Head -_France_ - -Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam. - -Tete de Moine, Monk's Head -_France_ - -A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer -Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay. - -Tete de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head. - -"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie" -_Scotland_ - -Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme -that exposes it: - - The first love token ye gae me - Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie. - O wae be to the tempting cheese, - The tempting cheese of Fyvie, - Gat me forsake my ain gude man - And follow a fottman laddie. - -Texel - -Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of -Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands. - -Thenay -_Vendome, France_ - -Resembles Camembert and Vendome. - -Thion -_Switzerland_ - -A fine Emmentaler. - -Three Counties -_Ireland_ - -An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most -of the Irish cheese. - -Thuringia Caraway -_Germany_ - -A hand cheese spiked with caraway. - -Thyme -_Syria_ - -Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other -herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II, -Hazebrook II. - -Tibet -_Tibet_ - -The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of -sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to -string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. -They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, -in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.) - -Tignard -_Savoy, France_ - -Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in -Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel. - -Tijuana -_Mexico_ - -Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town. - -Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4. - -Tilsit, or Tilsiter Kaese, also called Ragnit -_Germany_ - -This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. -Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open -texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is -stronger and coarser. - -Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to -imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovar, is such a -good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, -and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations. - -The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a -good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial -dallying." - -Tilziski -_Yugoslavia_ - -A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter. - -Tome de Beaumont -_France_ - -Whole cow's milk. - -Tome, la -_Auvergne, France_ - -Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar -that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Roche, Salers, -etc. - -Tome de Chevre -_Savoy, France_ - -Soft goat cheese. - -Tome de Savoie -_France_ - -Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des -Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane. - -Tomelitan Gruyere -_Norway_ - -Imitation of French Gruyere in 2-1/2 ounce packages. - -Topf or Topfkaese -_Germany_ - -A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk -cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it -is flaky. - -Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a -table cheese. - -Toscanello -_Tuscany, Italy_ - -A smaller edition of Toscano. - -Touareg -_Berber, Africa_ - -Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then -dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or -placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and -never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber -tribes. - -Tour Eiffel -_Berry, France_ - -Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque -label and trademark for a brand of Camembert. - -Touloumisio -_Greece_ - -Similar to Feta. - -Tournette -_France_ - -Small goat cheese. - -Tourne de chevre -_Dauphine, France_ - -Goat cheese. - -Trappe, la, or Oka -_Canada_ - -Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian -monastery. - -Trappist _see_ Chapter 3. - -Trappist -_Yugoslavia_ - -Trappist Port-Salut imitation. - -Trauben (Grape) -_Switzerland_ - -Swiss or Gruyere aged in Swiss Neuchatel wine and so named for the -grape. - -Travnik, Travnicki -_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_ - -Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally -skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and -adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and -Vlasic. - -When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It -ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and -is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type -when aged is characteristically oily and sharp. - -Traz os Montes -_Portugal_ - -Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically -named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit -muttony, but none of it at all tallowy. - -Trecce -_Italy_ - -Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh. - -Triple Aurore -_France_ - -Normandy cheese in season all the year around. - -Troo -_France_ - -Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January. - -Trouville -_France_ - -Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Eveque type of superior quality. - -Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy. - -Truckles -_England_ - -No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue -Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. -On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a -handout: - - Pray, dame, something, - An apple or a dumpling, - Or a piece of Truckle cheese - Of your own making. - -No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar -put up in loaves. - -Tschil -_Armenia_ - -Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or -cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is -drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil. - -Tuile de Flandre -_France_ - -A type of Marolles. - -Tullum Penney -_Turkey_ - -Salty from being soaked in brine. - -Tuna, Prickly Pear -_Mexico_ - -Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and -straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike -consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when -hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or -flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or -confection in Mexico for centuries. - -Tuscano -_Italy_ - -Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan. - -Twdr Sir -_Serbia_ - -Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. -Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to -Brick or Limburger. - -Twin Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, -Wisconsin. - -Tworog -_Russia_ - -Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese -bread called Notruschki. - -Tybo -_Denmark_ - -Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk. - -Tyrol Sour -_German_ - -A typical Tyrolean hand cheese. - -Tzgone -_Dalmatia_ - -The opposite number of Tzigen, just below. - -Tzigenkaese -_Austria_ - -Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; -originated in Dalmatia. - - -U - -Urda -_Rumania_ - -Creamy; sweet; mild. - -Uri -_Switzerland_ - -Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight -to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds. - -Urseren -_Switzerland_ - -Mild flavored. Cooked curd. - -Urt, Fromage d' - -Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country. - - -V - -Vacherin -_France and Switzerland_ - -I. Vacherin a la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft -interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches -in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is -almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the -hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny -than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on -bread. The local name is Tome de Montague. - -II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called -Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our -conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e." - -Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for -the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss -classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin. - -Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du -_Andorra, France_ - -Sheep milk. - -Valdeblore, le -_Nice, France_ - -Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese. - -Valencay, or Fromage de Valencay -_Touraine, France_ - -Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to -December. This was a favorite with Francis I. - -Valio -_Finland_ - -One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss -cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, -Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real -cheese is. - -Valsic -_Albania_ - -Crumbly and sharp. - -Varalpenland -_Germany_ - -Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and -smell. - -Varennes, Fromage de -_France_ - -Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy. - -Vaesterbottenost -_West Bothnia_ - -Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, -almost bitter taste. - -Vaestgoetaost -_West Gothland, Sweden_ - -Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty -to thirty pounds. - -Vendome, Fromage de -_France_ - -Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendree in being ripened under -ashes. There is also a soft Vendome sold mostly in Paris. - -Veneto, Venezza -_Italy_ - -Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp. - -Vic-en-Bigorre -_France_ - -Winter cheese of Bearn in season October to May. - -Victoria -_England_ - -The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford. - -Ville Saint-Jacques -_France_ - -Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May. - -Villiers -_France_ - -Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne. - -Viry-vory, or Vary -_France_ - -Fresh cream cheese. - -Viterbo -_Italy_ - -Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_. -Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino -family. - -Vize -_Greece_ - -Ewe's milk; suitable for grating. - -Void -_Meuse, France_ - -Soft associate of Pont l'Eveque and Limburger. - -Volvet Kaas -_Holland_ - -The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45% -fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.) - -Vorarlberg Sour-milk -_Greasy_ - -Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong -flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk. - -Vory, le -_France_ - -Fresh cream variety like Neufchatel and Petit Suisse. - - -W - -Warshawski Syr -_Poland_ - -Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland. - -Warwickshire -_England_ - -Derbyshire type. - -Washed-curd cheese -_U.S.A._ - -Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any -abnormal flavors. - -Wedesslborg -_Denmark_ - -A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully -ripened. - -Weisschmiere -_Bavaria, Germany_ - -Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four -months. - -Weisslacker, White Lacquer -_Bavaria_ - -Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgaeuer-type put up in cylinders and -rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of -Germany's finest soft cheeses. - -Welsh cheeses - -The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh -"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at -one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream -cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same -delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John -Keats. - -"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer -available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because -it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen -into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such -wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by -Rhys Davies.) - -Wensleydale -_England_ - - I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to -Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the -Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June -to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, -but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put -on. - -II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through -the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made -(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and -winter. - -Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskaese -_West Prussia_ - -Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda. - -West Friesian -_Netherlands_ - -Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of -it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet: - - Good bread, good butter and good cheese - Is good English and good Friese. - -Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler -_Germany_ - -Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is -mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the -richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of -about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put -down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the -seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, -like Limburger, before pressing. - -This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so -soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and -Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was -perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago. - -The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the -name Briol. - -Whale Cheese -_U.S.A._ - -In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which -the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the -possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as -petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after -milking the whales. - -White, Fromage Blanc -_France_ - -Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten -fresh, with or without salt. - -White Cheddar -_U.S.A._ - -Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. -Green Bay brand is a fine example of it. - -White Gorgonzola - -This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known -outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.) - -White Stilton -_England_ - -This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic -veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag. - -Whitethorn -_Ireland_ - -Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except -that it is colored. - -Wilstermarsch-Kaese Holsteiner Marsch -_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_ - -Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at -Itzehoe. - -Wiltshire or Wilts -_England_ - -A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North -Wilts.) - -Wisconsin Factory Cheeses -_U.S.A._ - -Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the -age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American -Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but -most of it is sold green when far too young. - -Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss. - -Withania -_India_ - -Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet -from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This -names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, -it becomes acrid with age. - - -Y - -Yoghurt, or Yogurt -_U.S.A._ - -Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the -milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel. - -York, York Curd and Cambridge York -_England_ - -A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are -becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too -rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which -it is cured, for local consumption. - -Yorkshire-Stilton -_Cotherstone, England_ - -This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine -internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general -favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung. - -York State -_U.S.A._ - -Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars. - -Young America -_U.S.A._ - -A mild, young, yellow Cheddar. - -Yo-yo -_U.S.A._ - -Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on -strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped -like a yo-yo. - - -Z - -Ziegel -_Austria_ - -Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months. - -Ziegenkaese -_Germany_ - -A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. -Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkaese. - -Ziger - - I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food -made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, -Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are -flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey -bread. - -II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of -whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes. - -Zips _see_ Brinza. - -Zomma -_Turkey_ - -Similar to Caciocavallo. - -Zwirn _see_ Tschil. - - - - -[Illustration] - -Index of Recipes - -American Cheese Salad, 128 -Angelic Camembert, 120 -Apple and Cheese Salad, 130 -Apple Pie a la Cheese, 119 -Apple Pie Adorned, 119 -Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119 -Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110 -au Gratin - Eggs, 125 - Potatoes, 125 - Tomatoes, 125 - -Blintzes, 111 -Brie or Camembert Salad, 128 - -Camembert, Angelic, 120 -Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122 -Cheddar Omelet, 135 -Cheese and Nut Salad, 128 -Cheese and Pea Salad, 130 -Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117 -Cheese Charlotte, 133 -Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119 -Cheese Custard, 118 -Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118 -Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131 -Cheese Waffles, 112 -Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137 -Chicken Cheese Soup, 127 -Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112 -Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120 -Cold Dunking, 133 -Custard, Cheese, 118 - -Dauphiny Ravioli, 109 -Diablotins, 135 -Dumpling, Napkin, 112 -Dunking, Cold, 133 - -Eggs au Gratin, 125 - -Flan au Fromage, 119 -Fondue - a l'Italienne, 84 - All-American, 85 - au Fromage, 90 - Baked Tomato, 89 - Brick, 92 - Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91 - Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93 - Cheese, 92 - Cheese, and Corn, 92 - Cheese and Rice, 91 - Chives, 88 - Comtois, 88 - Corn and Cheese, 92 - Neufchatel Style, 82 - 100% American, 90 - Parmesan, 86 - Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91 - Rice, and Cheese, 91 - Sapsago Swiss, 86 - Tomato, 89 - Tomato Baked, 89 - Vacherin-Fribourg, 88 -Fritters, Italian, 109 -Fritto Misto, Italian, 137 - -Garlic on Cheese, 110 -Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129 -Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - -Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110 -Italian Fritters, 109 -Italian Fritto Misto, 137 -Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108 - -Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108 - -Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135 -Miniature Pizzas, 107 - -Napkin Dumpling, 112 -Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108 - -Omelet - Cheddar, 135 - Meal-in-One, 135 - Parmesan, 135 - Tomato, 136 - with Cheese Sauce, 136 -Onion Soup, 126 -Onion Soup au Gratin, 126 -Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118 - -Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112 -Parmesan Omelet, 135 -Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131 -Pfeffernuesse and Caraway, 134 -Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117 -Piroghs, Polish, 137 -Pizza, 106 - Cheese, 107 - Dough, 106 - Miniature, 107 - Tomato Paste, 107 -Polish Piroghs, 137 -Potatoes au Gratin, 125 -Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137 -Puffs - Breakfast, 100 - Cheese, New England, 100 - Cream Cheese, 100 - Danish Fondue, 100 - Fried, 99 - New England Cheese, 100 - Parmesan, 99 - Roquefort, 99 - Three-in-One, 98 - -Rabbit - After-Dinner, 55 - All-American Succotash, 77 - American Woodchuck, 63 - Anchovy, 70 - Asparagus, 68 - Basic - No. 1 (with beer), 49 - No. 2 (with milk), 50 - Blushing Bunny, 63 - Border-hopping Bunny, 60 - "Bouquet of the Sea," 69 - Buttermilk, 76 - Celery and Onion, 67 - Chipped Beef, 66 - Cream Cheese, 75 - Crumby, 70 - Crumby Tomato, 71 - Curry, 76 - Danish, 77 - Devil's Own, The, 65 - Dr. Maginn's, 54 - Dried Beef, 66 - Dutch, 72 - Easy English, 78 - Eggnog, 77 - Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69 - Fluffy, Eggy, 64 - Frijole, 60 - Gherkin, 71 - Ginger Ale, 76 - Golden Buck, 59 - Golden Buck II, 59 - Grilled Sardine, 69 - Grilled Tomato, 65 - Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65 - Gruyere, 73 - Kansas Jack, 66 - Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52 - Latin-American Corn, 67 - Mexican Chilaly, 64 - Mushroom-Tomato, 67 - Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Original Recipe, Ye, 57 - Oven, 58 - Oyster, 68 - Pink Poodle, 74 - Pumpernickel, 72 - Reducing, 75 - Roe, 69 - Rum Tum Tiddy, 61 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62 - Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62 - Running, 63 - Sardine, Grilled, 69 - Sardine, Plain, 69 - Savory Eggy Dry, 75 - Scotch Woodcock, 63 - Sea-food, 68 - Sherry, 73 - Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62 - Smoked Cheddar, 70 - Smoked fish, 70 - South African Tomato, 61 - Spanish Sherry, 74 - Stieff Recipe, The, 51 - Swiss Cheese, 73 - Tomato, 61 - Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65 - Tomato, Crumby, 71 - Tomato, Grilled, 65 - Tomato Soup, 62 - Tomato, South American, 61 - Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59 - Yale College, 59 - Yorkshire, 58 -Ramekins - a la Parisienne, 103 - Casserole, 105 - Cheese I, 101 - Cheese II, 102 - Cheese III, 102 - Cheese IV, 103 - Frying Pan, 105 - Morezien, 104 - Puff Paste, 105 - Roquefort-Swiss, 104 - Swiss-Roquefort, 104 -Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109 -Roquefort, Champagned, 122 -Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130 -Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129 - -Salad - American Cheese, 128 - Apple and Cheese, 130 - Brie, 128 - Camembert, 128 - Cheese and Nut, 128 - Cheese and Pea, 130 - Gorgonzola and Banana, 129 - Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127 - Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129 - Swiss Cheese, 129 - Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Sandwiches - Alpine Club, 141 - Boston Beany, Open-face, 141 - Cheeseburgers, 141 - Deviled Rye, 142 - Egg, Open-faced, 142 - French-fried Swiss, 142 - Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142 - He-man, Open-faced, 143 - International, 143 - Jurassiennes, or Croutes Comtoises, 143 - Kuemmelkaese, 143 - Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143 - Meringue, Open-faced, 144 - Neufchatel and Honey, 144 - Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148 - Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144 - Pickled Camembert, 145 - Queijo da Serra, 145 - Roquefort Nut, 145 - Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145 - Tangy, 146 - Toasted Cheese, 148 - Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146 - Vegetarian, 146 - Witch's, 147 - Xochomilco, 147 - Yolk Picnic, 147 -Sauce - Cheese, 131 - Mornay, 131 - Parsleyed Cheese, 131 -Sauce Mornay, 131 -Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108 -Schnitzelbank Pot, 37 -Souffle - Basic, 95 - Cheese-Corn, 96 - Cheese Fritter, 98 - Cheese-Mushroom, 97 - Cheese-Potato, 97 - Cheese-Sea-food, 97 - Cheese-Spinach, 96 - Cheese-Tomato, 96 - Corn-Cheese, 96 - Mushroom-Cheese, 97 - Parmesan, 95 - Parmesan-Swiss, 96 - Potato-Cheese, 97 - Sea-food-Cheese, 97 - Spinach-Cheese, 96 - Swiss, 96 - Tomato-Cheese, 96 -Soup - Chicken Cheese, 127 - Onion, 126 - Onion, au Gratin, 126 - Supa Shetgia, 133 -Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136 -Straws, 133 -Stuffed Celery, 132 -Supa Shetgia, 133 -Swiss Cheese Salad, 129 - -Three-in-One Mold, 128 -Tomato Omelet, 136 -Tomatoes au Gratin, 125 - -Vatroushki, 111 - -Waffles, Cheese, 112 - - - - -ABOUT THE AUTHOR - - * * * * * - -Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and -enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New -York and summed them all up in this book. - -Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and -entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number -of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching -their students how to hole an Emmentaler. - -After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob -celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be -Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend, -Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose -on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five -years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's -dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks, -Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_. - -For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de -Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907 -to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials -under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books, -_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first -five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties. - -In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent -in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled -down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the -Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his -_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press, -while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press, -that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_ -and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude -Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._ - -The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he -returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There -he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of -thirty books bearing his name. - -After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their -mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where -he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his -free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a -score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book -business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other -out-of-the-way items. - -[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page, -removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references -to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.] - - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Complete Book of Cheese -by Robert Carlton Brown - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE *** - -***** This file should be named 14293.txt or 14293.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/2/9/14293/ - -Produced by David Starner, Ronald Holder and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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