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Waters + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste:, by +Mrs. W. G. Waters + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste: + Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes + +Author: Mrs. W. G. Waters + +Release Date: July 23, 2008 [EBook #930] +Last Updated: February 7, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S DECAMERON *** + + + + +Produced by Metra Christofferson, and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE COOK'S DECAMERON + </h1> + <h2> + A Study In Taste + </h2> + <h3> + Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Mrs. W. G. Waters + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h4> + "Show me a pleasure like dinner, which comes every day <br /> and lasts an + hour."— Talleyrand circa 1801 + </h4> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h3> + To <br /> <br /> A. V. <br /> <br /> In memory of Certain Ausonian Feasts + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Preface + </h2> + <p> + Montaigne in one of his essays* mentions the high excellence Italian + cookery had attained in his day. "I have entered into this Discourse upon + the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my Service, and who was + Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his Death. I put + this Fellow upon an Account of his office: Where he fell to Discourse of + this Palate-Science, with such a settled Countenance and Magisterial + Gravity, as if he had been handling some profound Point of Divinity. He + made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts of Appetites, of that of a + Man before he begins to eat, and of those after the second and third + Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and then to raise and + acute the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first in general, and + then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, and their Effects: The + Differences of Sallets, according to their seasons, which ought to be + serv'd up hot, and which cold: The Manner of their Garnishment and + Decoration, to render them yet more acceptable to the Eye after which he + entered upon the Order of the whole Service, full of weighty and important + Considerations." + </p> + <p> + It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the + gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. It is + a canon of belief with the modern Englishman that the French alone can + achieve excellence in the art of cookery, and when once a notion of this + sort shall have found a lodgment in an Englishman's brain, the task of + removing it will be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested that + Englishmen or any one else should cease to recognise the sovereign merits + of French cookery; all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance + approval, of cookery of other schools. But the favourable consideration of + any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of + Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by the + testing of which they may form a comparison. This universal prevalence of + French cookery may be held to be a proof of its supreme excellence—that + it is first, and the rest nowhere; but the victory is not so complete as + it seems, and the facts would bring grief and humiliation rather than + patriotic pride to the heart of a Frenchman like Brillat-Savarin. For the + cookery we meet in the hotels of the great European cities, though it may + be based on French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but a bastard, + cosmopolitan growth, the same everywhere, and generally vapid and + uninteresting. French cookery of the grand school suffers by being + associated with such commonplace achievements. It is noted in the + following pages how rarely English people on their travels penetrate where + true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it has seemed worth while to + place within the reach of English housewives some Italian recipes which + are especially fitted for the presentation of English fare to English + palates under a different and not unappetising guise. Most of them will be + found simple and inexpensive, and special care has been taken to include + those recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the + cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than they have + hitherto been treated by English cooks. + </p> + <p> + The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for certain + suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the introduction, and + for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off many of the dishes. He + still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her cook, for the interest + and enthusiasm she has shown in the work, for her valuable advice, and for + the care taken in testing the recipes. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PROL"> Prologue </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#linkpart1"> <b>PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> The First Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> The Second Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> The Third Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> The Fourth Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> The Fifth Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> The Sixth Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> The Seventh Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> The Eighth Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> The Ninth Day </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> The Tenth Day </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART"> <b>PART II—RECIPES</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> <b>Sauces</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> No. 2. Velute Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> No. 3. Bechamel Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> No. 5. Genoese Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> No. 6. Italian Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> No. 8. Tarragon Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> No. 9. Tomato Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> No. 11. Mushroom Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> No. 16. Supreme Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0031"> No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian + Frys) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0032"> No. 18. White Villeroy </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0033"> <b>Soups</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0034"> No. 19. Clear Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0035"> No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0036"> No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0037"> No. 22. Tuscan Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0038"> No. 23. Venetian Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0039"> No. 24. Roman Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0040"> No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0041"> No. 26. Soup alla Modanese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0042"> No. 27. Crotopo Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0043"> No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0044"> No. 29. Neapolitan Soup </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0045"> No. 30. Soup with Risotto </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0046"> No. 31. Soup alla Canavese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0047"> No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0048"> No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0049"> No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup) + </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0050"> <b>Minestre</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0051"> No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, + &c. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0052"> No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0053"> No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0054"> No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0055"> No. 39. Minestra of Semolina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0056"> No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0057"> No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0058"> No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0059"> <b>Fish</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0060"> No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels). </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0061"> No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy + (Fillets of Fish) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0062"> No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0063"> No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0064"> No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0065"> No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0066"> No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0067"> No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0068"> No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0069"> No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0070"> No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0071"> No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0072"> No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0073"> No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0074"> No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0075"> No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0076"> No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0077"> No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0078"> No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0079"> No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0080"> No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0081"> No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).* </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0082"> No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0083"> No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0084"> No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0085"> No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0086"> No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0087"> No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0088"> No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0089"> <b>Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C.</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0090"> No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0091"> No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0092"> No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0093"> No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef + Olives) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0094"> No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0095"> No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated + Beef) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0096"> No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet + of Beef) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0097"> No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0098"> No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets + of Beef with Pistacchios) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0099"> No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0100"> No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of + Veal) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0101"> No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0102"> No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0103"> No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of + Veal) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0104"> No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of + Veal) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0105"> No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0106"> No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of + Veal) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0107"> No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda + (Mutton Cutlets) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0108"> No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast + of Mutton) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0109"> No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante + (Breast of Mutton) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0110"> No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy + (Tendons of Lamb) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0111"> No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana + (Tendons of Lamb) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0112"> No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza + (Lamb Cutlets) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0113"> Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, + Sucking Pig, &C. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0114"> No. 95. Timballo alla Romana </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0115"> No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0116"> No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0117"> No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue + with Cucumber) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0118"> No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera + (Sheep's Tongues) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0119"> No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana + (Calves' Tongues) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0120"> No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking + Pig) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0121"> No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina + (Sucking Pig) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0122"> No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0123"> No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0124"> No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina + (Calf's Head) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0125"> No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana + (Calf's Head) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0126"> No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour + (Calf's Head) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0127"> No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino + (Calf's Head) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0128"> No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's + Head) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0129"> No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0130"> No. 111. Bodini Marinati </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0131"> No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0132"> No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0133"> No. 114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0134"> No. 115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0135"> No. 116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle + (Sweetbread and Mushrooms) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0136"> No. 117. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf's + Brains) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0137"> No. 118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's + Brains) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0138"> No. 119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's + Brains) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0139"> No. 120. Frittura of Liver and Brains </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0140"> No. 121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's + Brains) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0141"> No. 122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy + (Calf's Brains) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0142"> No. 123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's + Sweetbread) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0143"> No. 124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's + Fry) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0144"> No. 125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0145"> No. 126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0146"> No. 127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' + Livers) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0147"> No. 128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' + Livers) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0148"> No. 129. Croutons alla Principesca </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0149"> No. 130. Croutons alla Romana </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0150"> <b>Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c.</b> + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0151"> No. 131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0152"> No. 132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0153"> No. 133. Pollo all'Oliva (Chicken) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0154"> No. 134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0155"> No. 135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0156"> No. 136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0157"> No. 137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro + (Fowl) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0158"> No. 138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro + (Braized Fowl) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0159"> No. 139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0160"> No. 140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast + Turkey) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0161"> No. 141. Tacchinotto all'Istrione (Turkey + Poult) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0162"> No. 142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0163"> No. 143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0164"> No. 144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0165"> No. 145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda + (Partridges) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0166"> No. 146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0167"> No. 147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0168"> No. 148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0169"> No. 149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0170"> No. 150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0171"> No. 151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0172"> No. 152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino + (Roast Rabbit) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0173"> No. 153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit) + </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0174"> <b>Vegetables</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0175"> No. 154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema + (Asparagus) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0176"> No. 155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda + (Brussels Sprouts) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0177"> No. 156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana + (Beetroot) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0178"> No. 157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0179"> No. 158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0180"> No. 159. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese + (Cauliflower) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0181"> No. 160. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0182"> No. 161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0183"> No. 162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0184"> No. 163. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0185"> No. 164. Sedani fritti all'Italiana (Celery) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0186"> No. 165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0187"> No. 166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0188"> No. 167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0189"> No. 168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots + and Peas) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0190"> No. 169. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0191"> No. 170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0192"> No. 171 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese + (Lettuce) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0193"> No. 172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed + Mushrooms) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0194"> No. 173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of + Vegetables) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0195"> No. 174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0196"> No. 175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera + (Potatoes) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0197"> No. 176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with + Tomato Sauce) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0198"> No. 177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0199"> No. 178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0200"> No. 179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0201"> No. 180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0202"> No. 181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles) </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0203"> <b>Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian + Pastes</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0204"> No. 182. Macaroni with Tomatoes </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0205"> No. 183. Macaroni alla Casalinga </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0206"> No. 184. Macaroni al Sughillo </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0207"> No. 185. Macaroni alla Livornese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0208"> No. 186. Tagliarelle and Lobster </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0209"> No. 187. Polenta </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0210"> No. 188. Polenta Pasticciata </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0211"> No. 189. Battuffoli </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0212"> No. 190. Risotto all'Italiana </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0213"> No. 191. Risotto alla Genovese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0214"> No. 192. Risotto alla Spagnuola </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0215"> No. 193. Risotto alla Capuccina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0216"> No. 194. Risotto alla Parigina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0217"> No. 195. Ravioli </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0218"> No. 196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0219"> No. 197. Gnocchi alla Romana </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0220"> No. 198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0221"> No. 199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice + Pancake) </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0222"> <b>Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0223"> No. 200. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0224"> No. 201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0225"> No. 202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0226"> No. 203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0227"> No. 204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0228"> No. 205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom + Omelette) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0229"> No. 206. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato + Omelette) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0230"> No. 207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus + Omelette) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0231"> No. 208. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with + Herbs) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0232"> No. 209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0233"> No. 210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette) + </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0234"> <b>Sweets and Cakes</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0235"> No. 211. Bodino of Semolina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0236"> No. 212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0237"> No. 213. Crema Montata alle Fragole + (Strawberry Cream) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0238"> No. 214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat) + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0239"> No. 215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel + Cream) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0240"> No. 216. Cremona Cake </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0241"> No. 217. Cake alla Tolentina </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0242"> No. 218. Riso all'Imperatrice </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0243"> No. 219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0244"> No. 220. Cakes alla Livornese </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0245"> No. 221. Genoese Pastry </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0246"> No. 222. Zabajone </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0247"> No. 223. Iced Zabajone </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0248"> No. 224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake) + </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <b>New Century Sauce</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0249"> No. 225. Fish Sauce </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0250"> No. 226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, + Rabbit, &c.) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0251"> No. 227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0252"> No. 228. Tomato Sauce Piquante </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0253"> No. 229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0254"> No. 230. For masking Cutlets, &c. </a> + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_TOC" id="link2H_TOC"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><a name="linkpart1" id="linkpart1"></a> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON + </h1> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PROL" id="link2H_PROL"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Prologue + </h2> + <p> + The Marchesa di Sant'Andrea finished her early morning cup of tea, and + then took up the batch of correspondence which her maid had placed on the + tray. The world had a way of treating her in kindly fashion, and hostile + or troublesome letters rarely veiled their ugly faces under the envelopes + addressed to her; wherefore the perfection of that pleasant half-hour + lying between the last sip of tea and the first step to meet the new day + was seldom marred by the perusal of her morning budget. The apartment + which she graced with her seemly presence was a choice one in the Mayfair + Hotel, one which she had occupied for the past four or five years during + her spring visit to London; a visit undertaken to keep alive a number of + pleasant English friendships which had begun in Rome or Malta. London had + for her the peculiar attraction it has for so many Italians, and the weeks + she spent upon its stones were commonly the happiest of the year. + </p> + <p> + The review she took of her letters before breaking the seals first puzzled + her, and then roused certain misgivings in her heart. She recognised the + handwriting of each of the nine addresses, and at the same time recalled + the fact that she was engaged to dine with every one of the correspondents + of this particular morning. Why should they all be writing to her? She had + uneasy forebodings of postponement, and she hated to have her engagements + disturbed; but it was useless to prolong suspense, so she began by opening + the envelope addressed in the familiar handwriting of Sir John Oglethorpe, + and this was what Sir John had to say— + </p> + <p> + "My Dear Marchesa, words, whether written or spoken, are powerless to + express my present state of mind. In the first place, our dinner on + Thursday is impossible, and in the second, I have lost Narcisse and + forever. You commented favourably upon that supreme of lobster and the Ris + de Veau a la Renaissance we tasted last week, but never again will you + meet the handiwork of Narcisse. He came to me with admirable testimonials + as to his artistic excellence; with regard to his moral past I was, I + fear, culpably negligent, for I now learn that all the time he presided + over my stewpans he was wanted by the French police on a charge of + murdering his wife. A young lady seems to have helped him; so I fear + Narcisse has broken more than one of the commandments in this final + escapade. The truly great have ever been subject to these momentary + aberrations, and Narcisse being now in the hands of justice—so + called—our dinner must needs stand over, though not, I hope, for + long. Meantime the only consolation I can perceive is the chance of a cup + of tea with you this afternoon." + </p> + <p> + "J. O." + </p> + <p> + Sir John Oglethorpe had been her husband's oldest and best friend. He and + the Marchesa had first met in Sardinia, where they had both of them gone + in pursuit of woodcock, and since the Marchesa had been a widow, she and + Sir John had met either in Rome or in London every year. The dinner so + tragically manque had been arranged to assemble a number of Anglo-Italian + friends; and, as Sir John was as perfect as a host as Narcisse was as a + cook, the disappointment was a heavy one. She threw aside the letter with + a gesture of vexation, and opened the next. + </p> + <p> + "Sweetest Marchesa," it began, "how can I tell you my grief at having to + postpone our dinner for Friday. My wretched cook (I gave her seventy-five + pounds a year), whom I have long suspected of intemperate habits, was + hopelessly inebriated last night, and had to be conveyed out of the house + by my husband and a dear, devoted friend who happened to be dining with + us, and deposited in a four-wheeler. May I look in tomorrow afternoon and + pour out my grief to you? Yours cordially, + </p> + <p> + "Pamela St. Aubyn Fothergill." + </p> + <p> + When the Marchesa had opened four more letters, one from Lady Considine, + one from Mrs. Sinclair, one from Miss Macdonnell, and one from Mrs. + Wilding, and found that all these ladies were obliged to postpone their + dinners on account of the misdeeds of their cooks, she felt that the laws + of average were all adrift. Surely the three remaining letters must + contain news of a character to counterbalance what had already been + revealed, but the event showed that, on this particular morning, Fortune + was in a mood to strike hard. Colonel Trestrail, who gave in his chambers + carefully devised banquets, compounded by a Bengali who was undoubtedly + something of a genius, wrote to say that this personage had left at a + day's notice, in order to embrace Christianity and marry a lady's-maid who + had just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds under the will of her + late mistress. Another correspondent, Mrs. Gradinger, wrote that her + German cook had announced that the dignity of womanhood was, in her + opinion, slighted by the obligation to prepare food for others in exchange + for mere pecuniary compensation. Only on condition of the grant of perfect + social equality would she consent to stay, and Mrs. Gradinger, though she + held advanced opinions, was hardly advanced far enough to accept this + suggestion. Last of all, Mr. Sebastian van der Roet was desolate to + announce that his cook, a Japanese, whose dishes were, in his employer's + estimation, absolute inspirations, had decamped and taken with him + everything of value he could lay hold of; and more than desolate, that he + was forced to postpone the pleasure of welcoming the Marchesa di Sant' + Andrea at his table. + </p> + <p> + When she had finished reading this last note, the Marchesa gathered the + whole mass of her morning's correspondence together, and uttering a few + Italian words which need not be translated, rolled it into a ball and + hurled the same to the farthest corner of the room. "How is it," she + ejaculated, "that these English, who dominate the world abroad, cannot get + their food properly cooked at home? I suppose it is because they, in their + lofty way, look upon cookery as a non-essential, and consequently fall + victims to gout and dyspepsia, or into the clutches of some international + brigandaccio, who declares he is a cordon bleu. One hears now and again + pleasant remarks about the worn-out Latin races, but I know of one Latin + race which can do better than this in cookery." And having thus delivered + herself, the Marchesa lay back on the pillows and reviewed the situation. + </p> + <p> + She was sorry in a way to miss the Colonel's dinner. The dishes which the + Bengali cook turned out were excellent, but the host himself was a trifle + dictatorial and too fond of the sound of his own voice, while certain of + the inevitable guests were still worse. Mrs. Gradinger's letter came as a + relief; indeed the Marchesa had been wondering why she had ever consented + to go and pretend to enjoy herself by eating an ill-cooked dinner in + company with social reformers and educational prigs. She really went + because she liked Mr. Gradinger, who was as unlike his wife as possible, a + stout youth of forty, with a breezy manner and a decided fondness for + sport. Lady Considine's dinners were indifferent, and the guests were apt + to be a bit too smart and too redolent of last season's Monte Carlo odour. + The Sinclairs gave good dinners to perfectly selected guests, and by + reason of this virtue, one not too common, the host and hostess might be + pardoned for being a little too well satisfied with themselves and with + their last new bibelot. The Fothergill dinners were like all other dinners + given by the Fothergills of society. They were costly, utterly + undistinguished, and invariably graced by the presence of certain guests + who seemed to have been called in out of the street at the last moment. + Van der Roet's Japanese menus were curious, and at times inimical to + digestion, but the personality of the host was charming. As to Sir John + Oglethorpe, the question of the dinner postponed troubled her little: + another repast, the finest that London's finest restaurant could furnish, + would certainly be forthcoming before long. In Sir John's case, her + discomposure took the form of sympathy for her friend in his recent + bereavement. He had been searching all his life for a perfect cook, and he + had found, or believed he had found, such an one in Narcisse; wherefore + the Marchesa was fully persuaded that, if that artist should evade the + guillotine, she would again taste his incomparable handiwork, even though + he were suspected of murdering his whole family as well as the partner of + his joys. + </p> + <p> + That same afternoon a number of the balked entertainers foregathered in + the Marchesa's drawing-room, the dominant subject of discourse being the + approaching dissolution of London society from the refusal of one human to + cook food for another. Those present were gathered in two groups. In one + the Colonel, in spite of the recent desertion of his Oriental, was + asserting that the Government should be required to bring over + consignments of perfectly trained Indian cooks, and thus trim the balance + between dining room and kitchen; and to the other Mrs. Gradinger, a gaunt, + ill-dressed lady in spectacles, with a commanding nose and dull, wispy + hair, was proclaiming in a steady metallic voice, that it was absolutely + necessary to double the school rate at once in order to convert all the + girls and some of the boys as well, into perfectly equipped food-cooking + animals; but her audience gradually fell away, and in an interval of + silence the voice of the hostess was heard giving utterance to a tentative + suggestion. + </p> + <p> + "But, my dear, it is inconceivable that the comfort and the movement of + society should depend on the humours of its servants. I don't blame them + for refusing to cook if they dislike cooking, and can find other work as + light and as well paid; but, things being as they are, I would suggest + that we set to work somehow to make ourselves independent of cooks." + </p> + <p> + "That 'somehow' is the crux, my dear Livia," said Mrs. Sinclair. "I have a + plan of my own, but I dare not breathe it, for I'm sure Mrs. Gradinger + would call it 'anti-social,' whatever that may mean." + </p> + <p> + "I should imagine that it is a term which might be applied to any scheme + which robs society of the ministrations of its cooks," said Sir John. + </p> + <p> + "I have heard mathematicians declare that what is true of the whole is + true of its parts," said the Marchesa. "I daresay it is, but I never + stopped to inquire. I will amplify on my own account, and lay down that + what is true of the parts must be true of the whole. I'm sure that sounds + quite right. Now I, as a unit of society, am independent of cooks because + I can cook myself, and if all the other units were independent, society + itself would be independent—ecco!" + </p> + <p> + "To speak in this tone of a serious science like Euclid seems rather + frivolous," said Mrs. Gradinger. "I may observe—" but here + mercifully the observation was checked by the entry of Mrs. St. Aubyn + Fothergill. + </p> + <p> + She was a handsome woman, always dominated by an air of serious + preoccupation, sumptuously, but not tastefully dressed. In the social + struggle upwards, wealth was the only weapon she possessed, and wealth + without dexterity has been known to fail before this. She made efforts, + indeed, to imitate Mrs. Sinclair in the elegancies of menage, and to pose + as a woman of mind after the pattern of Mrs. Gradinger; but the task first + named required too much tact, and the other powers of endurance which she + did not possess. + </p> + <p> + "You'll have some tea, Mrs. Fothergill?" said the Marchesa. "It's so good + of you to have come." + </p> + <p> + "No, really, I can't take any tea; in fact, I couldn't take any lunch out + of vexation at having to put you off, my dear Marchesa." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, these accidents will occur. We were just discussing the best way of + getting round them," said the Marchesa. "Now, dear,"—speaking to + Mrs. Sinclair—"let's have your plan. Mrs. Gradinger has fastened + like a leech on the Canon and Mrs. Wilding, and won't hear a word of what + you have to say." + </p> + <p> + "Well, my scheme is just an amplification of your mathematical + illustrations, that we should all learn to cook for ourselves. I regard it + no longer as impossible, or even difficult, since you have informed us + that you are a mistress of the art. We'll start a new school of cookery, + and you shall teach us all you know." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, my dear Laura, you are like certain English women in the hunting + field. You are inclined to rush your fences," said the Marchesa with a + deprecatory gesture. "And just look at the people gathered here in this + room. Wouldn't they—to continue the horsey metaphor—be rather + an awkward team to drive?" + </p> + <p> + "Not at all, if you had them in suitable surroundings. Now, supposing some + beneficent millionaire were to lend us for a month or so a nice country + house, we might install you there as Mistress of the stewpans, and sit at + your feet as disciples," said Mrs. Sinclair. + </p> + <p> + "The idea seems first-rate," said Van der Roet; "and I suppose, if we are + good little boys and girls, and learn our lessons properly, we may be + allowed to taste some of our own dishes." + </p> + <p> + "Might not that lead to a confusion between rewards and punishments?" said + Sir John. + </p> + <p> + "If ever it comes to that," said Miss Macdonnell with a mischievous glance + out of a pair of dark, flashing Celtic eyes, "I hope that our mistress + will inspect carefully all pupils' work before we are asked to eat it. I + don't want to sit down to another of Mr. Van der Roet's Japanese salads + made of periwinkles and wallflowers." + </p> + <p> + "And we must first catch our millionaire," said the Colonel. + </p> + <p> + During these remarks Mrs. Fothergill had been standing "with parted lips + and straining eyes," the eyes of one who is seeking to "cut in." Now came + her chance. "What a delightful idea dear Mrs. Sinclair's is. We have been + dreadfully extravagant this year over buying pictures, and have doubled + our charitable subscriptions, but I believe I can still promise to act in + a humble way the part of Mrs. Sinclair's millionaire. We have just + finished doing up the 'Laurestinas,' a little place we bought last year, + and it is quite at your service, Marchesa, as soon as you liketo occupy + it." + </p> + <p> + This unlooked-for proposition almost took away the Marchesa's breath. "Ah, + Mrs. Fothergill," she said, "it was Mrs. Sinclair's plan, not mine. She + kindly wishes to turn me into a cook for I know not how long, just at the + hottest season of the year, a fate I should hardly have chosen for + myself." + </p> + <p> + "My dear, it would be a new sensation, and one you would enjoy beyond + everything. I am sure it is a scheme every one here will hail with + acclamation," said Mrs. Sinclair. All other conversation had now ceased, + and the eyes of the rest of the company were fixed on the speaker. "Ladies + and gentlemen," she went on, "you have heard my suggestion, and you have + heard Mrs. Fothergill's most kind and opportune offer of her country house + as the seat of our school of cookery. Such an opportunity is one in ten + thousand. Surely all of us—-even the Marchesa—must see that it + is one not to be neglected." + </p> + <p> + "I approve thoroughly," said Mrs. Gradinger; "the acquisition of + knowledge, even in so material a field as that of cookery, is always a + clear gain." + </p> + <p> + "It will give Gradinger a chance to put in a couple of days at Ascot," + whispered Van der Roet. + </p> + <p> + "Where Mrs. Gradinger leads, all must follow," said Miss Macdonnell. "Take + the sense of the meeting, Mrs. Sinclair, before the Marchesa has time to + enter a protest." + </p> + <p> + "And is the proposed instructress to have no voice in the matter?" said + the Marchesa, laughing. + </p> + <p> + "None at all, except to consent," said Mrs. Sinclair; "you are going to be + absolute mistress over us for the next fortnight, so you surely might obey + just this once." + </p> + <p> + "You have been denouncing one of our cherished institutions, Marchesa," + said Lady Considine, "so I consider you are bound to help us to replace + the British cook by something better." + </p> + <p> + "If Mrs. Sinclair has set her heart on this interesting experiment. You + may as well consent at once, Marchesa," said the Colonel, "and teach us + how to cook, and—what may be a harder task—to teach us to eat + what other aspirants may have cooked." + </p> + <p> + "If this scheme really comes off," said Sir John, "I would suggest that + the Marchesa should always be provided with a plate of her own up her + sleeve—if I may use such an expression—so that any void in the + menu, caused by failure on the part of the under-skilled or over-ambitious + amateur, may be filled by what will certainly be a chef-d'oeuvre." + </p> + <p> + "I shall back up Mrs. Sinclair's proposition with all my power," said Mrs. + Wilding. "The Canon will be in residence at Martlebridge for the next + month, and I would much rather be learning cookery under the Marchesa than + staying with my brother-in-law at Ealing." + </p> + <p> + "You'll have to do it, Marchesa," said Van der Roet; "when a new idea + catches on like this, there's no resisting it." + </p> + <p> + "Well, I consent on one condition—that my rule shall be absolute," + said the Marchesa, "and I begin my career as an autocrat by giving Mrs. + Fothergill a list of the educational machinery I shall want, and + commanding her to have them all ready by Tuesday morning, the day on which + I declare the school open." + </p> + <p> + A chorus of applause went up as soon as the Marchesa ceased speaking. + </p> + <p> + "Everything shall be ready," said Mrs. Fothergill, radiant with delight + that her offer had been accepted, "and I will put in a full staff of + servants selected from our three other establishments." + </p> + <p> + "Would it not be as well to send the cook home for a holiday?" said the + Colonel. "It might be safer, and lead to less broth being spoilt." + </p> + <p> + "It seems," said Sir John, "that we shall be ten in number, and I would + therefore propose that, after an illustrious precedent, we limit our + operations to ten days. Then if we each produce one culinary poem a day we + shall, at the end of our time, have provided the world with a hundred new + reasons for enjoying life, supposing, of course, that we have no failures. + I propose, therefore, that our society be called the 'New Decameron.'" + </p> + <p> + "Most appropriate," said Miss Macdonnell, "especially as it owes its + origin to an outbreak of plague—the plague in the kitchen." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The First Day + </h2> + <p> + On the Tuesday morning the Marchesa travelled down to the "Laurestinas," + where she found that Mrs. Fothergill had been as good as her word. + Everything was in perfect order. The Marchesa had notified to her pupils + that they must report themselves that same evening at dinner, and she took + down with her her maid, one of those marvellous Italian servants who + combine fidelity with efficiency in a degree strange to the denizens of + more progressive lands. Now, with Angelina's assistance, she proposed to + set before the company their first dinner all'Italiana, and the last they + would taste without having participated in the preparation. The real work + was to begin the following morning. + </p> + <p> + The dinner was both a revelation and a surprise to the majority of the + company. All were well travelled, and all had eaten of the mongrel French + dishes given at the "Grand" hotels of the principal Italian cities, and + some of them, in search of adventures, had dined at London restaurants + with Italian names over the doors, where—with certain honourable + exceptions—the cookery was French, and not of the best, certain + Italian plates being included in the carte for a regular clientele, dishes + which would always be passed over by the English investigator, because he + now read, or tried to read, their names for the first time. Few of the + Marchesa's pupils had ever wandered away from the arid table d'hote in + Milan, or Florence, or Rome, in search of the ristorante at which the + better class of townsfolk were wont to take their colazione. Indeed, + whenever an Englishman does break fresh ground in this direction, he + rarely finds sufficient presence of mind to controvert the suggestions of + the smiling minister who, having spotted his Inglese, at once marks down + an omelette aux fines herbes and a biftek aux pommes as the only food such + a creature can consume. Thus the culinary experiences of Englishmen in + Italy have led to the perpetuation of the legend that the traveller can + indeed find decent food in the large towns, "because the cooking there is + all French, you know," but that, if he should deviate from the beaten + track, unutterable horrors, swimming in oil and reeking with garlic, would + be his portion. Oil and garlic are in popular English belief the + inseparable accidents of Italian cookery, which is supposed to gather its + solitary claim to individuality from the never-failing presence of these + admirable, but easily abused, gifts of Nature. + </p> + <p> + "You have given us a delicious dinner, Marchesa," said Mrs. Wilding as the + coffee appeared. "You mustn't think me captious in my remarks—indeed + it would be most ungracious to look a gift-dinner in the—What are + you laughing at, Sir John? I suppose I've done something awful with my + metaphors—mixed them up somehow." + </p> + <p> + "Everything Mrs. Wilding mixes will be mixed admirably, as admirably, say, + as that sauce which was served with the Manzo alla Certosina," Sir John + replied. + </p> + <p> + "That is said in your best style, Sir John," replied Mrs. Wilding; "but + what I was going to remark was, that I, as a poor parson's wife, shall ask + for some instruction in inexpensive cooking before we separate. The dinner + we have just eaten is surely only within the reach of rich people." + </p> + <p> + "I wish some of the rich people I dine with could manage now and then to + reach a dinner as good," said the Colonel. + </p> + <p> + "I believe it is a generally received maxim, that if you want a truth to + be accepted you must repeat the same in season and out, whenever you have + the opportunity," said the Marchesa. "The particular truth I have now in + mind is the fact that Italian cookery is the cookery of a poor nation, of + people who have scant means wherewith to purchase the very inferior + materials they must needs work with; and that they produce palatable food + at all is, I maintain, a proof that they bring high intelligence to the + task. Italian culinary methods have been developed in the struggle when + the cook, working with an allowance upon which an English cook would + resign at once, has succeeded by careful manipulation and the study of + flavouring in turning out excellent dishes made of fish and meat + confessedly inferior. Now, if we loosen the purse-strings a little, and + use the best English materials, I affirm that we shall achieve a result + excellent enough to prove that Italian cookery is worthy to take its stand + beside its great French rival. I am glad Mrs. Wilding has given me an + opportunity to impress upon you all that its main characteristics are + simplicity and cheapness, and I can assure her that, even if she should + reproduce the most costly dishes of our course, she will not find any + serious increase in her weekly bills. When I use the word simplicity, I + allude, of course, to everyday cooking. Dishes of luxury in any school + require elaboration, care, and watchfulness." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner {*} + + Zuppa d'uova alla Toscana. Tuscan egg-soup. + Sogliole alla Livornese. Sole alla Livornese. + Manzo alla Certosina. Fillet of beef, Certosina sauce. + Minuta alla Milanese. Chickens' livers alla Milanese. + Cavoli fiodi ripieni. Cauliflower with forcemeat. + Cappone arrosto con insalata. Roast capon with salad. + Zabajone. Spiced custard. + Uova al pomidoro. Eggs and tomatoes. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * The recipes for the dishes contained in all these menus + will be found in the second part of the book. The limits of + the seasons have necessarily been ignored. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Second Day + </h2> + <p> + Wednesday's luncheon was anticipated with some curiosity, or even + searchings of heart, as in it would appear the first-fruits of the hand of + the amateur. The Marchesa wisely restricted it to two dishes, for the + compounding of which she requisitioned the services of Lady Considine, + Mrs. Sinclair, and the Colonel. The others she sent to watch Angelina and + her circle while they were preparing the vegetables and the dinner + entrees. After the luncheon dishes had been discussed, they were both + proclaimed admirable. It was a true bit of Italian finesse on the part of + the Marchesa to lay a share of the responsibility of the first meal upon + the Colonel, who was notoriously the most captious and the hardest to + please of all the company; and she did even more than make him jointly + responsible, for she authorised him to see to the production of a special + curry of his own invention, the recipe for which he always carried in his + pocket-book, thus letting India share with Italy in the honours of the + first luncheon. + </p> + <p> + "My congratulations to you on your curry, Colonel Trestrail," said Miss + Macdonnell. "You haven't followed the English fashion of flavouring a + curry by emptying the pepper-pot into the dish?" + </p> + <p> + "Pepper properly used is the most admirable of condiments," the Colonel + said. + </p> + <p> + "Why this association of the Colonel and pepper?" said Van der Roet. "In + this society we ought to be as nice in our phraseology as in our + flavourings, and be careful to eschew the incongruous. You are coughing, + Mrs. Wilding. Let me give you some water." + </p> + <p> + "I think it must have been one of those rare grains of the Colonel's + pepper, for you must have a little pepper in a curry, mustn't you, + Colonel? Though, as Miss Macdonnell says, English cooks generally overdo + it." + </p> + <p> + "Vander is in one of his pleasant witty moods," said the Colonel, "but I + fancy I know as much about the use of pepper as he does about the use of + oil colours; and now we have, got upon art criticism, I may remark, my + dear Vander, I have been reminded that you have been poaching on my + ground. I saw a landscape of yours the other day, which looked as if some + of my curry powder had got into the sunset. I mean the one poor blind old + Wilkins bought at your last show." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, but that sunset was an inspiration, Colonel, and consequently beyond + your comprehension." + </p> + <p> + "It is easy to talk of inspiration," said Sir John, "and, perhaps, now + that we are debating a matter of real importance, we might spend our time + more profitably than in discussing what is and what is not a good picture. + Some inspiration has been brought into our symposium, I venture to affirm + that the brain which devised and the hand which executed the Tenerumi di + Vitello we have just tasted, were both of them inspired. In the + construction of this dish there is to be recognised a breath of the same + afflatus which gave us the Florentine campanile, and the Medici tombs, and + the portrait of Monna Lisa. When we stand before any one of these + masterpieces, we realise at a glance how keen must have been the primal + insight, and how strenuous the effort necessary for the evolution of so + consummate an achievement; and, with the savour of the Tenerumi di Vitello + still fresh, I feel that it deserves to be added to the list of Italian + capo lavori. Now, as I was not fortunate enough to be included in the + pupils' class this morning, I must beg the next time the dish is presented + to us—and I imagine all present will hail its renaissance with joy—that + I may be allowed to lend a hand, or even a finger, in its preparation." + </p> + <p> + "Veal, with the possible exception of Lombard beef, is the best meat we + get in Italy," said the Marchesa, "so an Italian cook, when he wants to + produce a meat dish of the highest excellence, generally turns to veal as + a basis. I must say that the breast of veal, which is the part we had for + lunch today, is a somewhat insipid dish when cooked English fashion. That + we have been able to put it before you in more palatable form, and to win + for it the approval of such a connoisseur as Sir John Oglethorpe, is + largely owing to the judicious use of that Italian terror—more dire + to many English than paper-money or brigands—garlic." + </p> + <p> + "The quantity used was infinitesimal," said Mrs. Sinclair, "but it seems + to have been enough to subdue what I once heard Sir John describe as the + pallid solidity of the innocent calf." + </p> + <p> + "I fear the vein of incongruity in our discourse, lately noted by Van der + Roet, is not quite exhausted," said Sir John. "The Colonel was up in arms + on account of a too intimate association of his name with pepper, and now + Mrs. Sinclair has bracketed me with the calf, a most useful animal, I + grant, but scarcely one I should have chosen as a yokefellow; but this is + a digression. To return to our veal. I had a notion that garlic had + something to do with the triumph of the Tenerumi, and, this being the + case, I think it would be well if the Marchesa were to give us a + dissertation on the use of this invaluable product." + </p> + <p> + "As Mrs. Sinclair says, the admixture of garlic in the dish in question + was a very small one, and English people somehow never seem to realise + that garlic must always be used sparingly. The chief positive idea they + have of its characteristics is that which they gather from the odour of a + French or Italian crowd of peasants at a railway station. The effect of + garlic, eaten in lumps as an accompaniment to bread and cheese, is + naturally awful, but garlic used as it should be used is the soul, the + divine essence, of cookery. The palate delights in it without being able + to identify it, and the surest proof of its charm is manifested by the + flatness and insipidity which will infallibly characterise any dish + usually flavoured with it, if by chance this dish should be prepared + without it. The cook who can employ it successfully will be found to + possess the delicacy of perception, the accuracy of judgment, and the + dexterity of hand, which go to the formation of a great artist. It is a + primary maxim, and one which cannot be repeated too often, that garlic + must never be cut up and used as part of the material of any dish. One + small incision should be made in the clove, which should be put into the + dish during the process of cooking, and allowed to remain there until the + cook's palate gives warning that flavour enough has been extracted. Then + it must be taken out at once. This rule does not apply in equal degree to + the use of the onion, the large mild varieties of which may be cooked and + eaten in many excellent bourgeois dishes; but in all fine cooking, where + the onion flavour is wanted, the same treatment which I have prescribed + for garlic must be followed." + </p> + <p> + The Marchesa gave the Colonel and Lady Considine a holiday that afternoon, + and requested Mrs. Gradinger and Van der Roet to attend in the kitchen to + help with the dinner. In the first few days of the session the main + portion of the work naturally fell upon the Marchesa and Angelina, and in + spite of the inroads made upon their time by the necessary directions to + the neophytes, and of the occasional eccentricities of the neophytes' + energies, the dinners and luncheons were all that could be desired. The + Colonel was not quite satisfied with the flavour of one particular soup, + and Mrs. Gradinger was of opinion that one of the entrees, which she + wanted to superintend herself, but which the Marchesa handed over to Mrs. + Sinclair, had a great deal too much butter in its composition. Her + conscience revolted at the action of consuming in one dish enough butter + to solace the breakfast-table of an honest working man for two or three + days; but the faintness of these criticisms seemed to prove that every one + was well satisfied with the rendering of the menu of the day. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch + + Tenerumi di Vitello. Breast of veal. + Piccione alla minute. Pigeons, braized with liver, &c. + Curry +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner + + Zuppa alla nazionale. Soup alla nazionale. + Salmone alla Genovese. Salmon alla Genovese. + Costolette alla Costanza. Mutton cutlets alla Costanza. + Fritto misto alla Villeroy. Lamb's fry alla Villeroy. + Lattughe al sugo. Stuffed Lettuce. + Dindo arrosto alla Milanese. Roast turkey alla Milanese. + Crema montata alle fragole. Strawberry cream. + Tartufi alla Dino. Truffles alla Dino. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Third Day + </h2> + <p> + "I observe, dear Marchesa," said Mrs. Fothergill at breakfast on Thursday + morning, "that we still follow the English fashion in our breakfast + dishes. I have a notion that, in this particular especially, we gross + English show our inferiority to the more spirituelles nations of the + Continent, and I always feel a new being after the light meal of delicious + coffee and crisp bread and delicate butter the first morning I awake in + dear Paris." + </p> + <p> + "I wonder how it happens, then, that two goes of fish, a plateful of + omelette, and a round and a half of toast and marmalade are necessary to + repair the waste of tissue in dear England?" Van der Roet whispered to + Miss Macdonnell. + </p> + <p> + "It must be the gross air of England or the gross nature of the—" + </p> + <p> + The rest of Miss Macdonnell's remark was lost, as the Marchesa cried out + in answer to Mrs. Fothergill, "But why should we have anything but English + breakfast dishes in England? The defects of English cookery are manifest + enough, but breakfast fare is not amongst them. In these England stands + supreme; there is nothing to compare with them, and they possess the + crowning merit of being entirely compatible with English life. I cannot + say whether it may be the effect of the crossing, or of the climate on + this side, or that the air of England is charged with some subtle + stimulating quality, given off in the rush and strain of strenuous + national life, but the fact remains that as soon as I find myself across + the Channel I want an English breakfast. It seems that I am more English + than certain of the English themselves, and I am sorry that Mrs. + Fothergill has been deprived of her French roll and butter. I will see + that you have it to-morrow, Mrs. Fothergill, and to make the illusion + complete, I will order it to be sent to your room." + </p> + <p> + "Oh no, Marchesa, that would be giving too much trouble, and I am sure you + want all the help in the house to carry out the service as exquisitely as + you do," said Mrs. Fothergill hurriedly, and blushing as well as her + artistic complexion would allow. + </p> + <p> + "I fancy," said Mrs. Sinclair, "that foreigners are taking to English + breakfasts as well as English clothes. I noticed when I was last in Milan + that almost every German or Italian ate his two boiled eggs for breakfast, + the sign whereby the Englishman used to be marked for a certainty." + </p> + <p> + "The German would probably call for boiled eggs when abroad on account of + the impossibility of getting such things in his own country. No matter how + often you send to the kitchen for properly boiled eggs in Germany, the + result is always the same cold slush," said Mrs. Wilding; "and I regret to + find that the same plague is creeping into the English hotels which are + served by German waiters." + </p> + <p> + "That is quite true," said the Marchesa; "but in England we have no time + to concern ourselves with mere boiled eggs, delicious as they are. The + roll of delicacies is long enough, or even too long without them. When I + am in England, I always lament that we have only seven days a week and one + breakfast a day, and when I am in Italy I declare that the reason why the + English have overrun the world is because they eat such mighty breakfasts. + Considering how good the dishes are, I wonder the breakfasts are not + mightier than they are." + </p> + <p> + "It always strikes me that our national barrenness of ideas appears as + plainly in our breakfasts as anywhere," said Mrs. Gradinger. "There is a + monotony about them which—" + </p> + <p> + "Monotony!" interrupted the Colonel. "Why, I could dish you up a fresh + breakfast every day for a month. Your conservative tendencies must be very + strong, Mrs. Gradinger, if they lead you to this conclusion." + </p> + <p> + "Conservative! On the contrary, I—that is, my husband—always + votes for Progressive candidates at every election," said Mrs. Gradinger, + dropping into her platform intonation, at the sound of which consternation + arose in every breast. "I have, moreover, a theory that we might reform + our diet radically, as well as all other institutions; but before I + expound this, I should like to say a few words on the waste of wholesome + food which goes on. For instance, I went for a walk in the woods yesterday + afternoon, where I came upon a vast quantity of fungi which our ignorant + middle classes would pronounce to be poisonous, but which I—in + common with every child of the intelligent working-man educated in a board + school where botany is properly taught—knew to be good for food." + </p> + <p> + "Excuse me one moment," said Sir John, "but do they really use + board-school children as tests to see whether toadstools are poisonous or + not?" + </p> + <p> + "I do not think anything I said justified such an inference," said Mrs. + Gradinger in the same solemn drawl; "but I may remark that the children + are taught from illustrated manuals accurately drawn and coloured. Well, + to come back to the fungi, I took the trouble to measure the plot on which + they were growing, and found it just ten yards square. The average weight + of edible fungus per square yard was just an ounce, or a hundred and + twelve pounds per acre. Now, there must be at least twenty millions of + acres in the United Kingdom capable of producing these fungi without + causing the smallest damage to any other crop, wherefore it seems that, + owing to our lack of instruction, we are wasting some million tons of good + food per annum; and I may remark that this calculation pre-supposes, that + each fungus springs only once in the season; but I have reason to believe + that certain varieties would give five or six gatherings between May and + October, so the weight produced would be enormously greater than the + quantity I have named." + </p> + <p> + Here Mrs. Gradinger paused to finish her coffee, which was getting cold, + and before she could resume, Sir John had taken up the parole. "I think + the smaller weight will suffice for the present, until the taste for + strange fungi has developed, or the pressure of population increased. And + before stimulating a vastly increased supply, it will be necessary to + extirpate the belief that all fungi, except the familiar mushroom, are + poisonous, and perhaps to appoint an army of inspectors to see that only + the right sort are brought to market." + </p> + <p> + "Yes, and that will give pleasant and congenial employment to those youths + of the working-classes who are ambitious of a higher career than that of + their fathers," said Lady Considine, "and the ratepayers will rejoice, no + doubt, that they are participating in the general elevation of the + masses." + </p> + <p> + "Perhaps Mrs. Gradinger will gather a few of her less deadly fungi, and + cook them and eat them herself, pour encourager les autres," said Miss + Macdonnell. "Then, if she doesn't die in agonies, we may all forswear beef + and live on toadstools." + </p> + <p> + "I certainly will," said Mrs. Gradinger; "and before we rise from table I + should like—" + </p> + <p> + "I fear we must hear your remarks at dinner, Mrs. Gradinger," said the + Marchesa. "Time is getting on, and some of the dishes to-day are rather + elaborate, so now to the kitchen." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch. + + Risotto alla Genovese. Savoury rice. + Pollo alla Villereccia. Chicken alla Villereccia. + Lingue di Castrato alla cucinira. Sheeps' tongues alla cucinira. + + Menu—Dinner + + Zuppa alla Veneziana. Venetian soup. + Sogliole alla giardiniera. Sole with Vegetables. + Timballo alla Romana. Roman pie. + Petto di Castrato alla salsa di burro. Breast of mutton with butter sauce. + Verdure miste. Mixed vegetables. + Crema rappresa. Coffee cream. + Ostriche alla Veneziana. Oyster savoury. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Fourth Day + </h2> + <p> + THE Colonel was certainly the most severely critical member of the + company. Up to the present juncture he had been sparing of censure, and + sparing of praise likewise, but on this day, after lunch, he broke forth + into loud praise of the dish of beef which appeared in the menu. After + specially commending this dish he went on— + </p> + <p> + "It seems to me that the dinner of yesterday and to-day's lunch bear the + cachet of a fresh and admirable school of cookery. In saying this I don't + wish to disparage the traditions which have governed the preparation of + the delicious dishes put before us up to that date, which I have referred + to as the parting of the ways, the date when the palate of the expert + might detect a new hand upon the keys, a phrase once employed, I believe, + with regard to some man who wrote poetry. To meet an old friend, or a + thoroughly tested dish, is always pleasant, but old friends die or fall + out, and old favourite dishes may come to pall at last; and for this + reason I hold that the day which brings us a new friend or a new dish + ought to be marked with white chalk." + </p> + <p> + "And I think some wise man once remarked," said Sir John, "that the + discovery of a dish is vastly more important than the discovery of a star, + for we have already as many stars as we can possibly require, but we can + never have too many dishes." + </p> + <p> + "I was wondering whether any one would detect the variations I made + yesterday, but I need not have wondered, with such an expert at table as + Colonel Trestrail," said the Marchesa with a laugh. "Well, the Colonel has + found me out; but from the tone of his remarks I think I may hope for his + approval. At any rate, I'm sure he won't move a vote of censure." + </p> + <p> + "If he does, we'll pack him off to town, and sentence him to dine at his + club every day for a month," said Lady Considine. + </p> + <p> + "What crime has this particular club committed?" said Mrs. Sinclair in a + whisper. + </p> + <p> + "Vote of censure! Certainly not," said the Colonel, with an angry ring in + his voice. Mrs. Sinclair did not love him, and had calculated accurately + the carrying power of her whisper. "That would be the basest ingratitude. + I must, however, plead guilty to an attack of curiosity, and therefore I + beg you, Marchesa, to let us into the secret of your latest inspiration." + </p> + <p> + "Its origin was commonplace enough," said the Marchesa, "but in a way + interesting. Once upon a time—more years ago than I care to remember—I + was strolling about the Piazza Navona in Rome, and amusing myself by going + from one barrow to another, and turning over the heaps of rubbish with + which they were stocked. All the while I was innocently plagiarising that + fateful walk of Browning's round the Riccardi Palace in Florence, the day + when he bought for a lira the Romana homocidiorum. The world knows what + was the outcome of Browning's purchase, but it will probably never fathom + the full effect of mine. How do his lines run?" + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "These + I picked the book from. Five compeers in flank + Stood left and right of it as tempting more— + A dog's-eared Spicilegium, the fond tale + O' the frail one of the Flower, by young Dumas, + Vulgarised Horace for the use of schools, + The Life, Death, Miracles of Saint Somebody, + Saint Somebody Else, his Miracles, Death and Life." +</pre> + <p> + "Well, the choice which lay before me on one particular barrow was fully + as wide, or perhaps wider than that which met the poet's eye, but after I + had espied a little yellow paper-covered book with the title La Cucina + Partenopea, overo il Paradiso dei gastronomi, I looked no farther. What + infinite possibilities of pleasure might lie hidden under such a name. I + secured it, together with the Story of Barlaam and Josaphat, for + thirty-five centesimi, and handed over the coins to the hungry-eyed old + man in charge, who regretted, I am sure, when he saw the eager look upon + my face, that he had not marked the books a lira at least. I should now be + a rich woman if I had spent all the money I have spent as profitably as + those seven sold. Besides being a master in the art of cookery, the author + was a moral philosopher as well; and he addresses his reader in prefatory + words which bespeak a profound knowledge of life. He writes: 'Though the + time of man here on earth is passed in a never-ending turmoil, which must + make him often curse the moment when he opened his eyes on such a world; + though life itself must often become irksome or even intolerable, + nevertheless, by God's blessing, one supreme consolation remains for this + wretched body of ours. I allude to that moment when, the forces being + spent and the stomach craving support, the wearied mortal sits down to + face a good dinner. Here is to be found an effectual balm for the ills of + life: something to drown all remembrance of our ill-humours, the worries + of business, or even family quarrels. In sooth, it is only at table that a + man may bid the devil fly away with Solomon and all his wisdom, and give + himself up to an earthly delight, which is a pleasure and a profit at the + same time.'" + </p> + <p> + "The circumstances under which this precious book was found seem to + suggest a culinary poem on the model of the 'Ring and the Book,"' said + Mrs. Sinclair, "or we might deal with the story in practical shape by + letting every one of us prepare the same dish. I fancy the individual + renderings of the same recipe would vary quite as widely as the versions + of the unsavoury story set forth in Mr. Browning's little poem." + </p> + <p> + "I think we had better have a supplementary day for a trial of the sort + Mrs. Sinclair suggests," said Miss Macdonnell. "I speak with the memory of + a preparation of liver I tasted yesterday in the kitchen—one of the + dishes which did not appear at dinner." + </p> + <p> + "That is rather hard on the Colonel," said Van der Roet; "he did his best, + and now, see how hard he is trying to look as if he didn't know what you + are alluding to!" + </p> + <p> + "I never in all my life—" the Colonel began; but the Marchesa, + fearing a storm, interfered. "I have a lot more to tell you about my + little Neapolitan book," she went on, "and I will begin by saying that, + for the future, we cannot do better than make free use of it. The author + opens with an announcement that he means to give exact quantities for + every dish, and then, like a true Neapolitan, lets quantities go entirely, + and adopts the rule-of-thumb system. And I must say I always find the + question of quantities a difficult one. Some books give exact measures, + each dish being reckoned enough for four persons, with instructions to + increase the measures in proportion to the additional number of diners but + here a rigid rule is impossible, for a dish which is to serve by itself, + as a supper or a lunch, must necessarily be bigger than one which merely + fills one place in a dinner menu. Quantities can be given approximately in + many cases, but flavouring must always be a question of individual taste. + Latitude must be allowed, for all cooks who can turn out distinguished + work will be found to be endowed with imagination, and these, being + artists, will never consent to follow a rigid rule of quantity. To put it + briefly, cooks who need to be told everything, will never cook properly, + even if they be told more than everything. And after all, no one takes + seriously the quantities given by the chef of a millionaire or a prince; + witness the cook of the Prince de Soubise, who demanded fifty hams for the + sauces and garnitures of a single supper, and when the Prince protested + that there could not possibly be found space for them all on the table, + offered to put them all into a glass bottle no bigger than his thumb. Some + of Francatelli's quantities are also prodigious, as, for instance, when to + make a simple glaze he calls for three pounds of gravy beef, the best part + of a ham, a knuckle of veal, an old hen, and two partridges." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch + + Maccheroni al sugillo. Macaroni with sausage and tomatoes. + Manzo in insalata. Beef, pressed and marinated. + Lingue di vitello all'Italiana. Calves' tongues. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa alla Modanese. Modenese soup. + Merluzzo in salamoia. Cod with sauce piquante. + Pollastro in istufa di pomidoro. Stewed chicken with tomatoes. + Porcelletto farcito alla Corradino. Stuffed suckling pig. + Insalata alla Navarino. Navarino salad. + Bodino di semolino. Semolina pudding. + Frittura di cocozze. Fried cucumber. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Fifth Day + </h2> + <p> + The following day was very warm, and some half-dozen of the party wandered + into the garden after lunch and took their coffee under a big chestnut + tree on the lawn. "And this is the 16th of June," said Lady Considine. + "Last year, on this very day, I started for Hombourg. I can't say I feel + like starting for Hombourg, or any other place, just at present." + </p> + <p> + "But why should any one of us want to go to Hombourg?" said Sir John. + "Nobody can be afraid of gout with the admirable diet we enjoy here." + </p> + <p> + "I beg you to speak for yourself, Sir John," said Lady Considine. "I have + never yet gone to Hombourg on account of gout." + </p> + <p> + "Of course not, my dear friend, of course not; there are so many reasons + for going to Hombourg. There's the early rising, and the band, and the new + people one may meet there, and the change of diet—especially the + change of diet. But, you see, we have found our change of diet within an + hour of London, so why—as I before remarked—should we want to + rush off to Hombourg?" + </p> + <p> + "I am a firm believer in that change of diet," said Mrs. Wilding, "though + in the most respectable circles the true-bred Briton still talks about + foreign messes, and affirms that anything else than plain British fare + ruins the digestion. I must say my own digestion is none the worse for the + holiday I am having from the preparations of my own 'treasure.' I think we + all look remarkably well; and we don't quarrel or snap at each other, and + it would be hard to find a better proof of wholesome diet than that." + </p> + <p> + "But I fancied Mrs. Gradinger looked a little out of sorts this morning, + and I'm sure she was more than a little out of temper when I asked her how + soon we were to taste her dish of toadstools," said Miss Macdonnell. + </p> + <p> + "I expect she had been making a trial of the British fungi in her + bedroom," said Van der Roet; "and then, you see, our conversation isn't + quite 'high toned' enough for her taste. We aren't sufficiently awake to + the claims of the masses. Can any one explain to me why the people who are + so full of mercy for the mass, are so merciless to the unit?" + </p> + <p> + "That is her system of proselytising," said the Colonel, "and if she is + content with outward conversion, it isn't a bad one. I often feel inclined + to agree to any proposition she likes to put forward, and I would, if I + could stop her talking by my submission." + </p> + <p> + "You wouldn't do that, Colonel, even in your suavest mood," said Van der + Roet; "but I hope somebody will succeed in checking her flow of discourse + before long. I'm getting worn to a shadow by the grind of that awful + voice." + </p> + <p> + "I thought your clothes were getting a bit loose," said the Colonel, "but + I put that phenomenon down to another reason. In spite of Mrs. Wilding's + praise of our present style of cooking, I don't believe our friend Vander + finds it substantial enough to sustain his manly bulk, and I'll tell you + the grounds of my belief. A few mornings ago, when I was shaving, I saw + the butcher bring into the house a splendid sirloin, and as no sirloin has + appeared at table, I venture to infer that this joint was a private affair + of Vander's, and that he, as well as Mrs. Gradinger, has been going in for + bedroom cookery. Here comes the Marchesa; we'll ask her to solve the + mystery." + </p> + <p> + "I can account for the missing sirloin," said the Marchesa. "The Colonel + is wrong for once. It went duly into the kitchen, and not to Mr. Van der + Roet's bedroom; but I must begin with a slight explanation, or rather + apology. Next to trial by jury, and the reverence paid to rank, and the + horror of all things which, as poor Corney Grain used to say, 'are not + nice,' I reckon the Sunday sirloin, cooked and served, one and indivisible + as the typical fetish of the great English middle class. With this fact + before my eyes, I can assure you I did not lightly lay a hand on its + integrity. My friends, you have eaten that sirloin without knowing it. You + may remember that yesterday after lunch the Colonel was loud in praise of + a dish of beef. Well, that beef was a portion of the same, and not the + best portion. The Manzo in insalata, which pleased the Colonel's palate, + was that thin piece at the lower end, the chief function of which, when + the sirloin is cooked whole, seems to lie in keeping the joint steady on + the dish while paterfamilias carves it. It is never eaten in the + dining-room hot, because every one justly prefers and goes for the under + cut; neither does it find favour at lunch next day, for the reason that, + as cold beef, the upper cut is unapproachable. I have never heard that the + kitchen hankers after it inordinately; indeed, its ultimate destination is + one of the unexplained mysteries of housekeeping. I hold that never, under + any circumstances, should it be cooked with the sirloin, but always cut + off and marinated and braized as we had it yesterday. Thus you get two hot + dishes; our particular sirloin has given us three. The parts of this joint + vary greatly in flavour, and in texture as well, and by accentuating this + variation by treatment in the kitchen, you escape that monotony which is + prone to pervade the table so long as the sirloin remains in the house. + Mrs. Sinclair is sufficiently experienced as a housekeeper to know that + the dish of fillets we had for dinner last night was not made from the + under cut of one sirloin. It was by borrowing a little from the upper part + that I managed to fill the dish, and I'm sure that any one who may have + got one of the uppercut fillets had no cause to grumble. The Filetto di + Bue which we had for lunch to-day was the residue of the upper cut, and, + admirable as is a slice of cold beef taken from this part of the joint, I + think it is an excellent variation to make a hot dish of it sometimes. On + the score of economy, I am sure that a sirloin treated in this fashion + goes a long way further." + </p> + <p> + "The Marchesa demolishes one after another of our venerable institutions + with so charming a despatch that we can scarcely grieve for them," said + Sir John. "I am not philosopher enough to divine what change may come over + the British character when every man sits down every day to a perfectly + cooked dinner. It is sometimes said that our barbarian forefathers left + their northern solitudes because they hankered after the wine and delicate + meats of the south, and perhaps the modern Briton may have been led to + overrun the world by the hope of finding a greater variety of diet than he + gets at home. It may mean, Marchesa, that this movement of yours for the + suppression of English plain cooking will mark the close of our national + expansion." + </p> + <p> + "My dear Sir John, you may rest assured that your national expansion, as + well as your national cookery, will continue in spite of anything we may + accomplish here, and I say good luck to them both. When have I ever denied + the merits of English cookery?" said the Marchesa. "Many of its dishes are + unsurpassed. These islands produce materials so fine, that no art or + elaboration can improve them. They are best when they are cooked quite + plainly, and this is the reason why simplicity is the key-note of English + cookery. A fine joint of mutton roasted to a turn, a plain fried sole with + anchovy butter a broiled chop or steak or kidney, fowls or game cooked + English fashion, potatoes baked in their skins and eaten with butter and + salt, a rasher of Wiltshire bacon and a new-laid egg, where will you beat + these? I will go so far as to say no country can produce a bourgeoises + dish which can be compared with steak and kidney pudding. But the point I + want to press home is that Italian cookery comes to the aid of those who + cannot well afford to buy those prime qualities of meat and fish which + allow of this perfectly plain treatment. It is, as I have already said, + the cookery of a nation short of cash and unblessed with such excellent + meat and fish and vegetables as you lucky islanders enjoy. But it is rich + in clever devices of flavouring, and in combinations, and I am sure that + by its help English people of moderate means may fare better and spend + less than they spend now, if only they will take a little trouble." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch + + Gnocchi alla Romana. Semolina with parmesan. + Filetto di Bue al pistacchi. Fillet of beef with pistachios + Bodini marinati. Marinated rissoles. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa Crotopo. Croute au pot soup. + Sogliole alla Veneziana. Fillets of sole. + Ateletti alla Sarda. Atelets of ox-palates, &c. + Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda. Mutton cutlets. + Pollo alla Fiorentina. Fowl with macaroni. + Crema tartara alla Caramella. Caramel cream. + Uova rimescolati al tartufi. Eggs with truffles. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Sixth Day + </h2> + <p> + The following morning, at breakfast, a servant announced that Sir John + Oglethorpe was taking his breakfast in his room, and that there was no + need to keep anything in reserve for him. It was stated, however, that Sir + John was in no way indisposed, and that he would join the party at lunch. + </p> + <p> + He seated himself in his usual place, placid and fresh as ever; but, + unharmed as he was physically, it was evident to all the company that he + was suffering from some mental discomposure. Miss Macdonnell, with a frank + curiosity which might have been trying in any one else, asked him + point-blank the reason of his absence from the meal for which, in spite of + his partiality for French cookery, he had a true Englishman's devotion. + </p> + <p> + "I feel I owe the company some apology for my apparent churlishness," he + said; "but the fact is, that I have received some very harrowing, but at + the same time very interesting, news this morning. I think I told you the + other day how the vacancy in my kitchen has led up to a very real tragedy, + and that the abhorred Fury was already hovering terribly near the head of + poor Narcisse. Well, I have just received from a friend in Paris journals + containing a full account of the trial of Narcisse and of his fair + accomplice. The worst has come to pass, and Narcisse has been doomed to + sneeze into the basket like a mere aristocrat or politician during the + Terror I was greatly upset by this news, but I was interested, and in a + measure consoled, to find an enclosure amongst the other papers, an + envelope addressed to me in the handwriting of the condemned man. This + voix d'outre tombe, I rejoice to say, confides to me the secret of that + incomparable sauce of his, a secret which I feared might be buried with + Narcisse in the prison ditch." + </p> + <p> + The Marchesa sighed as she listened. The recipe of the sauce was safe + indeed, but she knew by experience how wide might be the gulf between the + actual work of an artist and the product of another hand guided by his + counsels, let the hand be ever so dexterous, and the counsels ever so + clear. "Will it be too much," she said, "to ask you to give us the details + of this painful tragedy?" + </p> + <p> + "It will not," Sir John replied reflectively. "The last words of many a + so-called genius have been enshrined in literature: probably no one will + ever know the parting objurgation of Narcisse. I will endeavour, however, + to give you some notion as to what occurred, from the budget I have just + read. I fear the tragedy was a squalid one. Madame, the victim, was + elderly, unattractive in person, exacting in temper, and the owner of + considerable wealth—at least, this is what came out at the trial. It + was one of those tangles in which a fatal denouement is inevitable; and, + if this had not come through Mademoiselle Sidonie, it would have come + through somebody else. The lovers plotted to remove madame by first + drugging her, then breaking her skull with the wood chopper, and then + pitching her downstairs so as to produce the impression that she had met + her death in this fashion. But either the arm of Mademoiselle Sidonie—who + was told off to do the hammering—was unskilled in such work, or the + opiate was too weak, for the victim began to shriek before she gave up the + ghost. Detection seemed imminent, so Narcisse, in whom the quality of + discretion was evidently predominant, bolted at once and got out of the + country. But the facts were absolutely clear. The victim lived long enough + to depose that Mademoiselle Sidonie attacked her with the wood chopper, + while Narcisse watched the door. The advocate of Narcisse did his work + like a man. He shed the regulation measure of tears; he drew graphic + pictures of the innocent youth of Narcisse, of his rise to eminence, and + of his filial piety as evidenced by the frequent despatch of money and + comestibles to his venerable mother, who was still living near Bourges. + Once a year, too, this incomparable artist found time to renew his youth + by a sojourn in the simple cottage which saw his birth, and by embracing + the giver of his life. Was it possible that a man who treated one woman + with such devotion and reverence could take the life of another? He + adduced various and picturesque reasons to show that such an event must be + impossible, but the jury took the opposite view. Some one had to be + guillotined, and the intelligent jury decided that Paris could spare + Narcisse better than it could spare Mademoiselle Sidonie. I fear the fact + that he had deigned to sell his services to a brutal islander may have + helped them to come to this conclusion, but there were other and more + weighty reasons. Of the supreme excellence of Narcisse as an artist the + jury knew nothing, so they let him go hang—or worse—but of + Mademoiselle Sidonie they knew a good deal, and their knowledge, I + believe, is shared by certain English visitors to Paris. She is one of the + attractions of the Fantasies d'Arcadie, and her latest song, Bonjour Coco, + is sung and whistled in every capital of Europe; so the jury, thrusting + aside as mere pedantry the evidence of facts, set to work to find some + verdict which would not eclipse the gaiety of La Ville Lumiere by cutting + short the career of Mademoiselle Sidonie. The art of the chef appealed to + only a few, and he dies a mute, but by no means inglorious martyr: the art + of the chanteuse appeals to the million, the voice of the many carries the + day, and Narcisse must die." + </p> + <p> + "It is a revolting story," said Mrs. Gradinger, "and one possible only in + a corrupted and corrupting society. It is wonderful, as Sir John remarks, + how the conquering streams of tendency manifest themselves even in an + affair like this. Ours is a democratic age, and the wants and desires of + the many, who find delight in this woman's singing, override the whims of + the pampered few, the employers of such costly luxuries as men cooks." + </p> + <p> + "You see you are a mere worm, Sir John," laughed Miss Macdonnell, "and you + had better lay out your length to be trampled on." + </p> + <p> + "Yes, I have long foreseen our fate, we who happen to possess what our + poor brother hankers after. Well, perhaps I may take up the worm's role at + once and 'turn', that is, burn the recipe of Narcisse." + </p> + <p> + "O Sir John, Sir John," cried Mrs. Sinclair "any such burning would remind + me irresistibly of Mr. Mantalini's attempts at suicide. There would be an + accurate copy in your pocket-book, and besides this you would probably + have learnt off the recipe by heart." + </p> + <p> + "Yes, we know our Sir John better than that, don't we?" said the Marchesa; + "but, joking apart, Sir John, you might let me have the recipe at once. It + would go admirably with one of our lunch dishes for to-morrow." + </p> + <p> + But on the subject of the sauce, Sir John—like the younger Mr. + Smallweed on the subject of gravy—was adamant. The wound caused by + the loss of Narcisse was, he declared, yet too recent: the very odour of + the sauce would provoke a thousand agonising regrets. And then the hideous + injustice of it all: Narcisse the artist, comparatively innocent (for to + artists a certain latitude must be allowed), to moulder in quicklime, and + this greedy, sordid murderess to go on ogling and posturing with + superadded popularity before an idiot crowd unable to distinguish a + Remoulade from a Ravigotte! "No, my dear Marchesa," he said, "the secret + of Narcisse must be kept a little longer, for, to tell the truth, I have + an idea. I remember that ere this fortunes have been made out of sauces, + and if this sauce be properly handled and put before the public, it may + counteract my falling, or rather disappearing rents. If only I could hit + upon a fetching name, and find twenty thousand pounds to spend in + advertising, I might be able once more to live on my acres." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, surely we shall be able to find you a name between us," said Mrs. + Wilding; "money, and things of that sort are to be procured in the city, I + believe; and I daresay Mr. Van der Roet will design a pretty label for the + sauce bottles." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch. + + Pollo all'olive. Fowl with olives. + Scaloppine di rive. Veal cutlets with rice. + Sedani alla parmigiana. Stewed celery. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa primaverile. Spring soup + Sote di Salmone al funghi. Salmon with mushrooms. + Tenerumi d'Agnello alla veneziana. Breast of lamb alla Veneziana. + Testa di Vitello alla sorrentina. Calf's head alla Sorrentina. + Fagiano alla perigo. Pheasant with truffles. + Torta alla cremonese. Cremona tart. + Uova alla fiorentina. Egg savoury. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Seventh Day + </h2> + <p> + "It seems invidious to give special praise where everything is so good," + said Mrs. Sinclair next day at lunch, "but I must say a word about that + clear soup we had at dinner last night. I have never ceased to regret that + my regard for manners forbade me ask for a second helping." + </p> + <p> + "See what it is to have no manners," said Van der Roet. "I plunged boldly + for another portion of that admirable preparation of calf's head at + dinner. If I hadn't, I should have regretted it for ever after. Now, I'm + sure you are just as curious about the construction of these masterpieces + as I am, Mrs. Sinclair, so we'll beg the Marchesa to let us into the + secret." + </p> + <p> + "Mrs. Sinclair herself had a hand in the calf's-head dish, 'Testa di + Vitello alla sorrentina,' so perhaps I may hand over that part of the + question to her. I am very proud that one of my pupils should have won + praise from such a distinguished expert as Mr. Van der Roet, and I leave + her to expound the mystery of its charm. I think I may without presumption + claim the clear soup as a triumph, and it is a discovery of my own. The + same calf's head which Mrs. Sinclair has treated with such consummate + skill, served also as the foundation for the stock of the clear soup. This + stock certainly derived its distinction from the addition of the liquor in + which the head was boiled. A good consomme can no doubt be made with + stock-meat alone, but the best soup thus made will be inferior to that we + had for dinner last night. Without the calf's head you will never get such + softness, combined with full roundness on the tongue, and the great merit + of calf's head is that it lets you attain this excellence without any + sacrifice of transparency." + </p> + <p> + "I have marvelled often at the clearness of your soups, Marchesa," said + the Colonel. "What clearing do you use to make them look like pale + sherry?" + </p> + <p> + "No one has any claim to be called a cook who cannot make soup without + artificial clearing," said the Marchesa. "Like the poet, the consomme is + born, not made. It must be clear from the beginning, an achievement which + needs care and trouble like every other artistic effort, but one + nevertheless well within the reach of any student who means to succeed. To + clear a soup by the ordinary medium of white of egg or minced beef is to + destroy all flavour and individuality. If the stock be kept from boiling + until it has been strained, it will develop into a perfectly clear soup + under the hands of a careful and intelligent cook. The fleeting delicate + aroma which, as every gourmet will admit, gives such grateful aid to the + palate, is the breath of garden herbs and of herbs alone, and here I have + a charge to bring against contemporary cookery. I mean the neglect of + natural in favour of manufactured flavourings. With regard to herbs, this + could not always have been the rule, for I never go into an old English + garden without finding there a border with all the good old-fashioned pot + herbs growing lustily. I do not say that the use of herbs is unknown, for + of course the best cookery is impossible without them, but I fear that + sage mixed with onion is about the only one which ever tickles the palate + of the great English middle-class. And simultaneously with the use of herb + flavouring in soup has arisen the practice of adding wine, which to me + seems a very questionable one. If wine is put in soup at all, it must be + used so sparingly as to render its presence imperceptible. Why then use it + at all? In some sauces wine is necessary, but in all cases it is as + difficult to regulate as garlic, and requires the utmost vigilance on the + part of the cook." + </p> + <p> + "My last cook, who was very stout and a little middle-aged, would always + use flavouring sauces from the grocer's rather than walk up to the garden, + where we have a most seductive herb bed," said Mrs. Wilding; "and then, + again, the love of the English for pungent-made sauces is another reason + for this makeshift practice. 'Oh, a table-spoonful of somebody's sauce + will do for the flavouring,' and in goes the sauce, and the flavouring is + supposed to be complete. People who eat their chops, and steaks, and fish, + and game, after having smothered the natural flavour with the same harsh + condiment, may be satisfied with a cuisine of this sort, but to an + unvitiated palate the result is nauseous." + </p> + <p> + "Yet as a Churchwoman, Mrs. Wilding, you ought to speak with respect of + English sauces. I think I have heard how a libation of one of them, which + was poured over a certain cathedral, has made it look as good as new," + said Miss Macdonnell, "and we have lately learned that one of the most + distinguished of our party is ambitious to enter the same career." + </p> + <p> + "I would suggest that Sir John should devote all that money he proposes to + make by the aid of his familiar spirit—the ghost of Narcisse—to + the building of a temple in honour of the tenth muse, the muse of + cookery," said Mrs. Sinclair; "and what do you think, Sir John, of a name + I dreamt of last night for your sauce, 'The New Century Sauce'? How will + that do?" + </p> + <p> + "Admirably," said Sir John after a moment's pause; "admirably enough to + allow me to offer you a royalty on every bottle sold. 'The New Century + Sauce', that's the name for me; and now to set to work to build the + factory, and to order plans for the temple of the tenth muse." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch. + + Maccheroni al pomidoro. Macaroni with tomatoes, + Vitello alla pellegrina. Veal cutlets alla pellegrina. + Animelle al sapor di targone. Sweetbread with tarragon sauce. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa alla Canavese. Soup alla Canavese + Naselli con piselli. Whiting with peas. + Coscia di manzo al forno. Braized ribs of beef. + Lingua alla Visconti. Tongue with grapes. + Anitra selvatica. Wild duck. + Zabajone ghiacciato. Iced syllabub. + Crostatini alla capucina. Savoury of rice, truffles, &c. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Eighth Day + </h2> + <p> + "We are getting unpleasantly near the end of our time," said the Colonel, + "but I am sure not one of us has learnt one tithe of what the Marchesa has + to teach." + </p> + <p> + "My dear Colonel Trestrail," said the Marchesa, "an education in cookery + does not mean the teaching of a certain number of recipes. Education, I + maintain, is something far higher than the mere imparting of facts; my + notion of it is the teaching of people to teach themselves, and this is + what I have tried to do in the kitchen. With some of you I am sure I have + succeeded, and a book containing the recipe of every dish we have tried + will be given to every pupil when we break up." + </p> + <p> + "I think the most valuable lesson I have learnt is that cookery is a + matter for serious study," said Mrs. Sinclair. "The popular English view + seems to be that it is one of those things which gets itself done. The + food is subjected to the action of heat, a little butter, or pepper, or + onion, being added by way of flavouring, and the process is complete. To + put it bluntly, it requires at least as much mental application to roast a + fowl as to cut a bodice; but it does not strike the average Englishwoman + in this way, for she will spend hours in thinking and talking about + dressmaking (which is generally as ill done as her cooking), while she + will be reluctant to give ten minutes to the consideration as to how a + luncheon or supper dish shall be prepared. The English middle classes are + most culpably negligent about the food they eat, and as a consequence they + get exactly the sort of cooks they deserve to get. I do not blame the + cooks; if they can get paid for cooking ill, why should they trouble to + learn to cook well?" + </p> + <p> + "I agree entirely," said Mrs. Wilding. "That saying, 'What I like is good + plain roast and boiled, and none of your foreign kickshaws,' is, as every + one knows, the stock utterance of John Bull on the stage or in the novel; + and, though John Bull is not in the least like his fictitious presentment, + this form of words is largely responsible for the waste and want of + variety in the English kitchen. The plain roast and boiled means a joint + every day, and this arrangement the good plain cook finds an admirable one + for several reasons: it means little trouble, and it means also lots of + scraps and bones and waste pieces. The good plain cook brings all the + forces of obstruction to bear whenever the mistress suggests made dishes; + and, should this suggestion ever be carried out, she takes care that the + achievement shall be of a character not likely to invite repetition. Not + long ago a friend of mine was questioning a cook as to soups, whereupon + the cook answered that she had never been required to make such things + where she had lived; all soups were bought in tins or bottles, and had + simply to be warmed up. Cakes, too, were outside her repertoire, having + always been 'had in' from the confectioner's, while 'entrys' were in her + opinion, and in the opinion of her various mistresses, 'un'ealthy' and not + worth making." + </p> + <p> + "My experience is that, if a mistress takes an interest in cooking, she + will generally have a fairly efficient cook," said Mrs. Fothergill. "I + agree with Mrs. Sinclair that our English cooks are spoilt by neglect; and + I think it is hard upon them, as a class, that so many inefficient women + should be able to pose as cooks while they are unable to boil a potato + properly." + </p> + <p> + "And the so-called schools of cookery are quite useless in what they + teach," said Miss Macdonnell. "I once sent a cook of mine to one to learn + how to make a clear soup, and when she came back, she sent up, as an + evidence of her progress, a potato pie coloured pink and green, a most + poisonous-looking dish—and her clear soups were as bad as ever." + </p> + <p> + Said the Colonel, "I will beg leave to enter a protest against the + imperfections of that repast which is supposed to be the peculiar delight + of the ladies, I allude to afternoon tea. I want to know why it is that + unless I happen to call just when the tea is brought up—I grant, I + know of a few houses which are honourable exceptions—I am fated to + drink that most abominable of all decoctions, stewed lukewarm tea. 'Will + you have some tea? I'm afraid it isn't quite fresh,' the hostess will + remark without a blush. What would she think if her husband at dinner were + to say, 'Colonel, take a glass of that champagne. It was opened the day + before yesterday, and I daresay the fizz has gone off a little'? Tea is + cheap enough, and yet the hostess seldom or never thinks of ordering up a + fresh pot. I believe it is because she is afraid of the butler." + </p> + <p> + "I sympathise with you fully, Colonel," said Lady Considine, "and my + withers are unwrung. You do not often honour me with your presence on + Tuesdays, but I am sure I may claim to be one of your honourable + exceptions." + </p> + <p> + "Indeed you may," said the Colonel. "Perhaps men ought not to intrude on + these occasions; but I have a preference for taking tea in a pretty + drawing-room, with a lot of agreeable women, rather than in a club + surrounded by old chaps growling over the latest job at the War Office, + and a younger brigade chattering about the latest tape prices, and the + weights for the spring handicaps." + </p> + <p> + "All these little imperfections go to prove that we are not a nation of + cooks," said Van der Roet. "We can't be everything. Heine once said that + the Romans would never have found time to conquer the world if they had + been obliged to learn the Latin grammar; and it is the same with us. We + can't expect to found an empire all over the planet, and cook as well as + the French, who—perhaps wisely—never willingly emerge from the + four corners of their own land." + </p> + <p> + "There is energy enough left in us when we set about some purely + utilitarian task," said Mrs. Wilding, "but we never throw ourselves into + the arts with the enthusiasm of the Latin races. I was reading the other + day of a French costumier who rushed to inform a lady, who had ordered a + turban, of his success, exclaiming, 'Madame, apres trots nun's d'insomnie + les plumes vent placees.' And every one knows the story of Vatel's suicide + because the fish failed to arrive. No Englishman would be capable of + flights like these." + </p> + <p> + "Really, this indictment of English cookery makes me a little nervous," + said Lady Considine "I have promised to join in a driving tour through the + southern counties. I shudder to think of the dinners I shall have to eat + at the commercial hotels and posting-houses on our route." + </p> + <p> + "English country inns are not what they ought to be, but now and then you + come across one which is very good indeed, as good, if not better, than + anything you could find in any other country; but I fear I must admit + that, charges considered, the balance is against us," said Sir John. + </p> + <p> + "When you start you ought to secure Sir John's services as courier, Lady + Considine," said the Marchesa. "I once had the pleasure of driving for a + week through the Apennines in a party under his guidance, and I can assure + you we found him quite honest and obliging." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, Marchesa, I was thinking of that happy time this very morning," said + Sir John. "Of Arezzo, where we were kept for three days by rain, which I + believe is falling there still. Of Cortona, with that wonderful little + restaurant on the edge of the cliff, whence you see Thrasumene lying like + a silver mirror in the plain below. Of Perugia, the august, of Gubbio, + Citta di Castello, Borgo San Sepolcro, Urbino, and divers others. If you + go for a drive in Italy, you still may meet with humours of the road such + as travellers of old were wont to enjoy. I well remember on the road + between Perugia and Gubbio we began to realise we were indeed traversing + mountain paths. On a sudden the driver got down, waved his arms, and + howled to some peasants working in a field below. These, on their part, + responded with more arm-waving and howling, directed apparently towards a + village farther up the hill, whereupon we were assailed with visions of + brigands, and amputated ears, and ransom. But at a turn of the road we + came upon two magnificent white oxen, which, being harnessed on in front, + drew us, and our carriages and horses as well, up five miles of steep + incline. These beautiful fellows, it seemed, were what the driver was + signalling for, and not for brigands. Again, every inn we stayed at + supplied us with some representative touch of local life and habit. Here + the whole personnel of the inn, reinforced by a goodly contingent of the + townsfolk, would accompany us even into our bedrooms, and display the + keenest interest in the unpacking of our luggage. There the cook would + come and take personal instructions as to the coming meal, throwing out + suggestions the while as to the merits of this or that particular dish, + and in one place the ancient chambermaid insisted that one of the ladies, + who had got a slight cold, should have the prete put into her bed for a + short time to warm it. You need not look shocked, Colonel. The prete in + question was merely a wooden frame, in the midst of which hangs a scaldino + filled with burning ashes—a most comforting ecclesiastic, I can + assure you. All the inns we visited had certain characteristics in common. + The entrance is always dirty, and the staircase too, the dining rooms + fairly comfortable, the bedrooms always clean and good, and the food much + better than you would expect to find in such out-of-the-way places; indeed + I cannot think of any inn where it was not good and wholesome, while often + it was delicious. In short, Lady Considine, I strongly advise you to take + a drive in Italy next spring, and if I am free I shall be delighted to act + as courier." + </p> + <p> + "Sir John has forgotten one or two touches I must fill in," said the + Marchesa. "It was often difficult to arrange a stopping-place for lunch, + so we always stocked our basket before starting. After the first day's + experience we decided that it was vastly more pleasant to take our meal + while going uphill at a foot-pace, than in the swing and jolt of a + descent, so the route and the pace of the horses had to be regulated in + order to give us a good hour's ascent about noon. Fortunately hills are + plentiful in this part of Italy, and in the keen air we generally made an + end of the vast store of provisions we laid in, and the generous fiascho + was always empty a little too soon. Our drive came to an end at Fano, + whither we had gone on account of a strange romantic desire of Sir John to + look upon an angel which Browning had named in one of his poems. Ah! how + vividly I can recall our pursuit of that picture. It was a wet, melancholy + day. The people of Fano were careless of the fame of their angel, for no + one knew the church which it graced. At last we came upon it by the merest + chance, and Sir John led the procession up to the shrine, where we all + stood for a time in positions of mock admiration. Sir John tried hard to + keep up the imposition, but something, either his innate honesty or the + chilling environment of disapproval of Guercino's handiwork, was too much + for him. He did his best to admire, but the task was beyond his powers, + and he raised no protest when some scoffer affirmed that, though Browning + might be a great poet, he was a mighty poor judge of painting, when he + gave in his beautiful poem immortality to this tawdry theatrical canvas. + 'I think,' said Sir John, 'we had better go back to the hotel and order + lunch. It would have been wiser to have ordered it before we left.' We + were all so much touched by his penitence that no one had the heart to + remind him how a proposition as to lunch had been made by our leading + Philistine as soon as we arrived, a proposition waved aside by Sir John as + inadmissible until the 'Guardian Angel' should have been seen and + admired." + </p> + <p> + "I plead guilty," said Sir John. "I think this experience gave a + death-blow to my career as an appreciator. Anyhow, I quite forget what the + angel was like, and for reminiscences of Fano have to fall back upon the + excellent colazione we ate in the externally unattractive, but internally + admirable, Albergo del Moro." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch. + + Astachi all'Italiana. Lobster all'Italiana + Filetto di bue alla Napolitana. Fillet of beef with Neapolitan sauce. + Risotto alla spagnuola. Savoury rice. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa alla Romana. Soup with quenelles. + Salmone alla Genovese. Salmon alla Genovese. + Costolette in agro-dolce. Mutton cutlets with Roman sauce. + Flano di spinacci. Spinach in a mould. + Cappone con rive. Capon with rice. + Croccante di mandorle. Almond sweet. + Ostriche alla Napolitana. Oyster savoury. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Ninth Day + </h2> + <p> + "Since I have been associated with the production of a dinner, I have had + my eyes opened as to the complicated nature of the task, and the numerous + strings which have to be pulled in order to ensure success," said the + Colonel; "but, seeing that a dinner-party with well-chosen sympathetic + guests and distinguished dishes represents one of the consummate triumphs + of civilisation, there is no reason to wonder. To achieve a triumph of any + sort demands an effort." + </p> + <p> + "Effort," said Miss Macdonnell. "Yes, effort is the word I associate with + so many middle-class English dinners. It is an effort to the hosts, who + regard the whole business as a mere paying off of debts; and an effort to + the guests, who, as they go to dress, recall grisly memories of former + similar experiences. It often astonishes me that dinner-giving of this + character should still flourish." + </p> + <p> + "The explanation is easy," said Van der Roet; "it flourishes because it + gives a mark of distinction. It is a delicious moment for Mrs. Johnson + when she is able to say to Mrs. Thompson, 'My dear, I am quite worn-out; + we dined out every day last week, and have four more dinners in the next + five days.' These good people show their British grit by the persistency + with which they go on with their penitential hospitality, and their lack + of ideas in never attempting to modify it so as to make it a pleasure + instead of a disagreeable duty." + </p> + <p> + "It won't do to generalise too widely, Van der Roet," said Sir John. "Some + of these good people surely enjoy their party-giving; and, from my own + experience of one or two houses of this sort, I can assure you the food is + quite respectable. The great imperfection seems to lie in the utter want + of consideration in the choice of guests. A certain number of people and a + certain quantity of food shot into a room, that is their notion of a + dinner-party." + </p> + <p> + "Of course we understand that the success of a dinner depends much more on + the character of the guests than on the character of the food," said Mrs. + Sinclair; "and most of us, I take it, are able to fill our tables with + pleasant friends; but what of the dull people who know none but dull + people? What gain will they get by taking counsel how they shall fill + their tables?" + </p> + <p> + "More, perhaps, than you think, dear Mrs. Sinclair," said Sir John. "Dull + people often enjoy themselves immensely when they meet dull people only. + The frost comes when the host unwisely mixes in one or two guests of + another sort—people who give themselves airs of finding more + pleasure in reading Stevenson than the sixpenny magazines, and who don't + know where Hurlingham is. Then the sheep begin to segregate themselves + from the goats, and the feast is manque." + </p> + <p> + "Considering what a trouble and anxiety a dinner-party must be to the + hostess, even under the most favouring conditions, I am always at a loss + to discover why so many women take so much pains, and spend a considerable + sum of money as well, over details which are unessential, or even + noxious," said Mrs. Wilding. "A few flowers on the table are all very well—one + bowl in the centre is enough—but in many houses the cost of the + flowers equals, if it does not outrun, the cost of all the rest of the + entertainment. A few roses or chrysanthemums are perfect as accessories, + but to load a table with flowers of heavy or pungent scent is an outrage. + Lilies of the valley are lovely in proper surroundings, but on a + dinner-table they are anathema. And then the mass of paper monstrosities + which crowd every corner. Swans, nautilus shells, and even wild boars are + used to hold up the menu. Once my menu was printed on a satin flag, and + during the war the universal khaki invaded the dinner table. Ices are + served in frilled baskets of paper, which have a tendency to dissolve and + amalgamate with the sweet. The only paper on the table should be the menu, + writ plain on a handsome card." + </p> + <p> + "No one can complain of papery ices here," said the Marchesa. "Ices may be + innocuous, but I don't favour them, and no one seems to have felt the want + of them; at least, to adopt the phrase of the London shopkeeper, 'I have + had no complaints.' And even the ice, the very emblem of purity, has not + escaped the touch of the dinner-table decorator. Only a few days ago I + helped myself with my fingers to what looked like a lovely peach, and let + it flop down into the lap of a bishop who was sitting next to me. This was + the hostess's pretty taste in ices." + </p> + <p> + "They are generally made in the shape of camelias this season," said Van + der Roet. "I knew a man who took one and stuck it in his buttonhole." + </p> + <p> + "I must say I enjoy an ice at dinner," said Lady Considine. "I know the + doctors abuse them, but I notice they always eat them when they get the + chance." + </p> + <p> + "Ah, that is merely human inconsistency," said Sir John. "I am inclined to + agree with the Marchesa that ice at dinner is an incongruity, and may well + be dispensed with. I think I am correct, Marchesa, in assuming that Italy, + which has showered so many boons upon us, gave us also the taste for + ices." + </p> + <p> + "I fear I must agree," said the Marchesa. "I now feel what a blessing it + would have been for you English if you had learnt from us instead the art + of cooking the admirable vegetables your gardens produce. How is it that + English cookery has never found any better treatment for vegetables than + to boil them quite plain? French beans so treated are tender, and of a + pleasant texture on the palate, but I have never been able to find any + taste in them. They are tasteless largely because the cook persists in + shredding them into minute bits, and I maintain that they ought to be + cooked whole—certainly when they are young—and sautez, a + perfectly plain and easy process, which is hard to beat. Plain boiled + cauliflower is doubtless good, but cooked alla crema it is far better; + indeed, it is one of the best vegetable dishes I know. But perhaps the + greatest discovery in cookery we Italians ever made was the combination of + vegetables and cheese. There are a dozen excellent methods of cooking + cauliflower with cheese, and one of these has come to you through France, + choux-fleurs au gratin, and has become popular. Jerusalem artichokes + treated in the same fashion are excellent; and the cucumber, nearly always + eaten raw in England, holds a first place as a vegetable for cooking. I + seem to remember that every one was loud in its praises when we tasted it + as an adjunct to Manzo alla Certosina. Why is it that celery is for the + most part only eaten raw with cheese? We have numberless methods of + cooking it in Italy, and beetroot and lettuce as well. There is no spinach + so good as English, and nowhere is it so badly cooked; it is always coarse + and gritty because so little trouble is taken with it, and I can assure + you that the smooth, delicate dish which we call Flano di spinacci is not + produced merely by boiling and chopping it, and turning it out into a + dish." + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Lunch + + Minestrone alla Milanese. Vegetable broth. + Coniglio alla Provenzale. Rabbit alla Provenzale. + Insalata di pomidoro. Tomato salad. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Menu—Dinner. + + Zuppa alla Maria Pia. Soup alla Maria Pia. + Anguilla con ortaggi alla Milanese. Eels with vegetables. + Manzo con sugo di barbabietoli. Fillet of beef with beetroot sauce. + Animelle alla parmegiana. Sweetbread with parmesan. + Perniciotti alla Gastalda. Partridges alla Gastalda. + Uova ripiani. Stuffed eggs. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + The Tenth Day + </h2> + <p> + The sun rose on the tenth and last day at the "Laurestinas" as he was wont + to rise on less eventful mornings. At breakfast the Marchesa proposed that + the lunch that day should be a little more ornate than usual, and the + dinner somewhat simpler. She requisitioned the services of six of the + company to prepare the lunch, and at the same time announced that they + would all have a holiday in the afternoon except Mrs. Sinclair, whom she + warned to be ready to spend the afternoon in the kitchen helping prepare + the last dinner. + </p> + <p> + Four dishes, all admirable, appeared at lunch, and several of the party + expressed regret that the heat of the weather forbade them from tasting + every one; but Sir John was not of these. He ate steadily through the + menu, and when he finally laid down his knife and fork he heaved a sigh, + whether of satisfaction or regret it were hard to say. + </p> + <p> + "It is a commonplace of the deepest dye to remark that ingratitude is + inherent in mankind," he began; "I am compelled to utter it, however, by + the sudden longing I feel for a plate from the hand of the late lamented + Narcisse after I have eaten one of the best luncheons ever put on a + table." + </p> + <p> + "Experience of one school of excellence has caused a hankering after the + triumphs of another," said Miss Macdonnell "There is one glory of the + Marchesa, there is, or was, another of Narcisse, and the taste of the + Marchesa's handiwork has stimulated the desire of comparision. Never mind, + Sir John, perhaps in another world Narcisse may cook you—" + </p> + <p> + "Oh stop, stop, for goodness' sake," cried Sir John, "I doubt whether even + he could make me into a dainty dish to set before the King of Tartarus, + though the stove would no doubt be fitted with the latest improvements and + the fuel abundant." + </p> + <p> + "Really, Sir John, I'm not sure I ought not to rise and protest," said + Mrs. Wilding, "and I think I would if it weren't our last day." + </p> + <p> + "Make a note of Sir John's wickedness, and pass it on to the Canon for use + in a sermon," said Van der Roet. + </p> + <p> + "I can only allow you half-an-hour, Laura," said the Marchesa to Mrs. + Sinclair, "then you must come and work with me for the delectation of + these idle people, who are going to spend the afternoon talking scandal + under the chestnuts." + </p> + <p> + "I am quite ready to join you if I can be of any help," said Mrs. + Gradinger. "When knowledge is to be acquired, I am always loath to stand + aside, not for my own sake so much as for the sake of others less + fortunate, to whom I might possibly impart it hereafter." + </p> + <p> + "You are very good," said the Marchesa, "but I think I must adhere to my + original scheme of having Mrs. Sinclair by herself. I see coffee is now + being taken into the garden, so we will adjourn, if you please." + </p> + <p> + After the two workers had departed for the kitchen, an unwonted silence + fell on the party under the chestnuts. Probably every one was pondering + over the imminent dissolution of the company, and wondering whether to + regret or rejoice. The peace had been kept marvellously well, considering + the composition of the company. Mrs. Fothergill at times had made a show + of posing as the beneficent patron, and Mrs. Gradinger had essayed to + teach what nobody wanted to learn; but firm and judicious snubbing had + kept these persons in their proper places. Nearly every one was sorry that + the end had come. It had been real repose to Mrs. Wilding to pass ten days + in an atmosphere entirely free from all perfume of the cathedral close. + Lady Considine had been spending freely of late, and ten days' cessation + of tradesmen's calls, and servants on board wages, had come as a welcome + relief. Sir John had gained a respite from the task he dreaded, the task + of going in quest of a successor to Narcisse. Now as he sat consuming his + cigarette in the leisurely fashion so characteristic of his enjoyment—and + those who knew him best were wont to say that Sir John practiced few arts + so studiously as that of enjoyment—he could not banish the figure of + Narcisse from his reverie. A horrible thought assailed him that this + obsession might spring from the fact that on this very morning Narcisse + might have taken his last brief walk out of the door of La Roquette, and + that his disembodied spirit might be hovering around. Admirable as the + cookery of the Marchesa had been, and fully as he had appreciated it, he + felt he would give a good deal to be assured that on this the last evening + of the New Decameron he might sit down to a dinner prepared by the hand of + his departed chef. + </p> + <p> + That evening the guests gathered round the table with more empressement + than usual. The Marchesa seemed a little flurried, and Mrs. Sinclair, in a + way, shared her excitement. The menu, for the first time, was written in + French, a fact which did not escape Sir John's eye. He made no remark as + to the soup; it was the best of its kind, and its French name made it no + better than the other triumphs in the same field which the Marchesa had + achieved. But when Sir John tasted the first mouthful of the fish he + paused, and after a reflective and regretful look at his plate, he cast + his eye round the table. All the others, however, were too busily intent + in consuming the Turbot la Vatel to heed his interrogative glance, so he + followed suit, and after he had finished his portion, asked, sotto voce, + for another bit. + </p> + <p> + In the interval before the service of the next dish Sir John made several + vain attempts to catch the Marchesa's eye, and more than once tried to get + in a word; but she kept up a forced and rather nervous conversation with + Lady Considine and Van der Roet, and refused to listen. As Sir John helped + himself to the next dish, Venaison sauce Grand Veneur, the feeling of + astonishment which had seized him when he first tasted the fish deepened + into something like Consternation. Had his palate indeed deceived him, or + had the Marchesa, by some subtle effort of experimental genius, divined + the secret of Narcisse—the secret of that incomparable sauce, the + recipe of which was safely bestowed in his pocket-book? Occasionally he + had taken a brief nap under the verandah after lunch: was it possible that + in his sleep he might have murmured, in her hearing, words which gave the + key of the mystery, and the description of those ingredients which often + haunted his dreams? One thing was certain, that the savour which rose from + the venison before him was the same which haunted his memory as the + parting effort of the ill-starred Narcisse. + </p> + <p> + Sir John was the least superstitious of mortals, still here he was face to + face with one of these conjunctions of affairs which the credulous accept + as manifestations of some hidden power, and sceptics as coincidences and + nothing more. All the afternoon he had been thinking of Narcisse, and + yearning beyond measure for something suggestive of his art; and here, on + his plate before him, was food which might have been touched by the + vanished hand. The same subtle influence pervaded the Chartreuse a la + cardinal, the roast capon and salad, and the sweet. At last, when the + dinner was nearly over, and when the Marchesa had apparently said all she + had to say to Van der Roet, he lifted up his voice and said, "Marchesa, + who gave you the recipe for the sauce with which the venison was served + this evening?" + </p> + <p> + The Marchesa glanced at Mrs. Sinclair, and then struck a hand-bell on the + table. The door opened, and a little man, habited in a cook's dress of + spotless white, entered and came forward. "M. Narcisse," said the + Marchesa, "Sir John wants to know what sauce was used in dressing the + venison; perhaps you can tell him." + </p> + <p> + Here the Marchesa rose and left the room, and all the rest followed her, + feeling it was unmeet that such a reunion should be witnessed by other + eyes, however friendly they might be. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + "Now, you must tell us all about it," said Lady Considine, as soon as they + got into the drawing-room, "and how you ever managed to get him out of + this scrape." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, there isn't much to tell," said the Marchesa. "Narcisse was + condemned, indeed, but no one ever believed he would be executed. One of + my oldest friends is married to an official high up in the Ministry of + Justice, and I heard from her last week that Narcisse would certainly be + reprieved; but I never expected a free pardon. Indeed, he got this + entirely because it was discovered that Mademoiselle Sidonie, his + accomplice, was really a Miss Adah Levine, who had graduated at a + music-hall in East London, and that she had announced her intention of + retiring to the land of her birth, and ascending to the apex of her + profession on the strength of her Parisian reputation. Then it was that + the reaction in favour of Narcisse set in; the boulevards could not stand + this. The journals dealt with this new outrage in their best Fashoda + style; the cafes rang with it: another insult cast upon unhappy France, + whose destiny was, it seemed, to weep tears of blood to the end of time. + There were rumours of an interpellation in the Chamber, the position of + the Minister of the Interior was spoken of as precarious, indeed the + Eclaireur reported one evening that he had resigned. Pockets were picked + under the eyes of sergents de ville, who were absorbed in proclaiming to + each other their conviction of the innocence of Narcisse, and the guilt of + cette coquine Anglaise. Cabmen en course ran down pedestrians by the + dozen, as they discussed l'affaire Narcisse to an accompaniment of + whip-cracking. In front of the Cafe des Automobiles a belated + organ-grinder began to grind the air of Mademoiselle Sidonie's great song + Bonjour Coco, whereupon the whole company rose with howls and cries of, 'A + bas les Anglais, a bas les Juifs. 'Conspuez Coco.' In less than five + minutes the organ was disintegrated, and the luckless minstrel flying with + torn trousers down a side street. For the next few days la haute gomme + promenaded with fragments of the piano organ suspended from watch chains + as trophies of victory. But this was not all. Paris broke out into poetry + over l'affaire Narcisse, and here is a journal sent to me by my friend + which contains a poem in forty-nine stanzas by Aristophane le Beletier, + the cher maitre of the 'Moribonds,' the very newest school of poetry in + Paris. I won't inflict the whole of it on you, but two stanzas I must read— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "'Puisse-je te rappeler loin des brouillards maudits. + Vers la France, sainte mere et nourrice! + Reviens a Lutece, de l'art vrai paradis, + Je t'evoque, O Monsieur Narcisse! + + Quitte les saignants bifteks, de tes mains sublimes + Gueris le sein meurtri de ta mere! + Detourne ton glaive trenchant de tes freles victimes + Vers l'Albion et sa triste Megere.'" +</pre> + <p> + "Dear me, it sounds a little like some other Parisian odes I have read + recently," said Lady Considine. "The triste Megere, I take it, is poor old + Britannia, but what does he mean by his freles victimes?" + </p> + <p> + "No doubt they are the pigeons and the rabbits, and the chickens and the + capons which Narcisse is supposed to have slaughtered in hecatombs, in + order to gorge the brutal appetite of his English employer," said Miss + Macdonnell. "After disregarding such an appeal as this M. Narcisse had + better keep clear of Paris for the future, for if he should go back and be + recognised I fancy it would be a case of 'conspuvez Narcisse."' + </p> + <p> + "The French seem to have lost all sense of exactness," said Mrs. + Gradinger, "for the lines you have just read would not pass muster as + classic. In the penultimate line there are two syllables in excess of the + true Alexandrine metre, and the last line seems too long by one. Neither + Racine nor Voltaire would have taken such liberties with prosody. I + remember a speech in Phaedre of more than a hundred lines which is an + admirable example of what I mean. I dare say some of you know it. It + begins:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Perfide! oses-tu bien te montrer devant moi? Monstre," +</pre> + <p> + but before the reciter could get fairly under way the door mercifully + opened, and Sir John entered. He advanced towards the Marchesa, and shook + her warmly by the hand, but said nothing; his heart was evidently yet too + full to allow him to testify his relief in words. He was followed closely + by the Colonel, who, taking his stand on the hearth-rug, treated the + company to a few remarks, couched in a strain of unwonted eulogy. In the + whole course of his life he had never passed a more pleasant ten days, + though, to be sure, he had been a little mistrustful at first. As to the + outcome of the experiment, if they all made even moderate use of the + counsels they had received from the Marchesa, the future of cookery in + England was now safe. He was not going to propose a formal vote of thanks, + because anything he could say would be entirely insufficient to express + the gratitude he felt, and because he deemed that each individual could + best thank the Marchesa on his or her behalf. + </p> + <p> + There was a momentary silence when the Colonel ceased, and then a clearing + of the throat and a preliminary movement of the arms gave warning that + Mrs. Gradinger was going to speak. The unspoken passage from Racine + evidently sat heavily on her chest. Abstracted and overwrought as he was, + these symptoms aroused in Sir John a consciousness of impending danger, + and he rushed, incontinent, into the breach, before the lady's opening + sentence was ready. + </p> + <p> + "As Colonel Trestrail has just remarked, we, all of us, are in debt to the + Marchesa in no small degree; but, in my case, the debt is tenfold. I am + sure you all understand why. As a slight acknowledgment of the sympathy I + have received from every one here, during my late trial, I beg to ask you + all to dine with me this day week, when I will try to set before you a + repast a la Francaise, which I hope may equal, I cannot hope that it will + excel, the dinners all'Italiana we have tasted in this happy retreat. + Narcisse and I have already settled the menu." + </p> + <p> + "I am delighted to accept," said the Marchesa. "I have no engagement, and + if I had I would throw my best friend over." + </p> + <p> + "And this day fortnight you must all dine with me," said Mrs. Sinclair. "I + will spend the intervening days in teaching my new cook how to reproduce + the Marchesa's dishes. Then, perhaps, we may be in a better position to + decide on the success of the Marchesa's experiment." + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + The next morning witnessed the dispersal of the party. Sir John and + Narcisse left by an early train, and for the next few days the reforming + hand of the last-named was active in the kitchen. He arrived before the + departure of the temporary aide, and had not been half-an-hour in the + house before there came an outbreak which might easily have ended in the + second appearance of Narcisse at the bar of justice, as homicide, this + time to be dealt with by a prosaic British jury, which would probably have + doomed him to the halter. Sir John listened over the balusters to the + shrieks and howls of his recovered treasure, and wisely decided to lunch + at his club. But the club lunch, admirable as it was, seemed flat and + unappetising after the dainty yet simple dishes he had recently tasted; + and the following day he set forth to search for one of those Italian + restaurants, of which he had heard vague reports. Certainly the repast + would not be the same as at the "Laurestinas," but it might serve for + once. Alas! Sir John did not find the right place, for there are "right + places" amongst the Italian restaurants of London. He beat a hasty retreat + from the first he entered, when the officious proprietor assured him that + he would serve up a dejeuner in the best French style. At the second he + chose a dish with an Italian name, but the name was the only Italian thing + about it. The experiment had failed. It seemed as if Italian restaurateurs + were sworn not to cook Italian dishes, and the next day he went to do as + best he could at the club. + </p> + <p> + But before he reached the club door he recalled how, many years ago, he + and other young bloods used to go for chops to Morton's, a queer little + house at the back of St. James' Street, and towards Morton's he now turned + his steps. As he entered it, it seemed as if it was only yesterday that he + was there. He beheld the waiter, with mouth all awry, through calling down + the tube. The same old mahogany partitions to the boxes, and the same + horse-hair benches. Sir John seated himself in a box, where there was one + other luncher in the corner, deeply absorbed over a paper. This luncher + raised his head and Sir John recognised Van der Roet. + </p> + <p> + "My dear Vander, whatever brought you here, where nothing is to be had but + chops? I didn't know you could eat a chop." + </p> + <p> + "I didn't know it myself till to-day," said Van der Roet, with a hungry + glance at the waiter, who rushed by with a plate of smoking chops in each + hand. "The fact is, I've had a sort of hankering after an Italian lunch, + and I went out to find one, but I didn't exactly hit on the right shop, so + I came here, where I've been told you can get a chop properly cooked, if + you don't mind waiting." + </p> + <p> + "Ah! I see," said Sir John, laughing. "We've both been on the same quest, + and have been equally unlucky. Well, we shall satisfy our hunger here at + any rate, and not unpleasantly either." + </p> + <p> + "I went to one place," said Van der Roet "and before ordering I asked the + waiter if there was any garlic in the dish I had ordered. 'Garlic, aglio, + no, sir, never.' Whereupon I thought I would go somewhere else. Next I + entered the establishment of Baldassare Romanelli. How could a man with + such a name serve anything else than the purest Italian cookery, I + reasoned, so I ordered, unquestioning, a piatio with an ideal Italian + name, Manzo alla Terracina. Alas! the beef used in the composition thereof + must have come in a refrigerating chamber from pastures more remote than + those of Terracina, and the sauce served with it was simply fried onions. + In short, my dish was beefsteak and onions, and very bad at that. So in + despair I fell back upon the trusty British chop." + </p> + <p> + As Van der Roet ceased speaking another guest entered the room, and he and + Sir John listened attentively while the new-comer gave his order. There + was no mistaking the Colonel's strident voice. "Now, look here! I want a + chop underdone, underdone, you understand, with a potato, and a small + glass of Scotch whisky, and I'll sit here." + </p> + <p> + "The Colonel, by Jove," said Sir John; "I expect he's been + restaurant-hunting too." + </p> + <p> + "Hallo!" said the Colonel, as he recognised the other two, "I never + thought I should meet you here: fact is, I've been reading about + agricultural depression' and how it is the duty of everybody to eat chops + so as to encourage the mutton trade, and that sort of thing." + </p> + <p> + "Oh, Colonel, Colonel," said Van der Roet. "You know you've been hungering + after the cookery of Italy, and trying to find a genuine Italian lunch, + and have failed, just as Sir John and I failed, and have come here in + despair. But never mind, just wait for a year or so, until the 'Cook's + Decameron' has had a fair run for its money, and then you'll find you'll + fare as well at the ordinary Italian restaurant as you did at the + 'Laurestinas,' and that's saying a good deal." + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PART II—RECIPES + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Sauces + </h2> + <p> + As the three chief foundation sauces in cookery, Espagnole or brown sauce, + Velute or white sauce, and Bechamel, are alluded to so often in these + pages, it will be well to give simple Italian recipes for them. + </p> + <p> + Australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is mentioned: + Harvest Burgundy for red, and Chasselas for Chablis. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce + </h2> + <p> + The chief ingredient of this useful sauce is good stock, to which add any + remnants and bones of fowl or game. Butter the bottom of a stewpan with at + least two ounces of butter, and in it put slices of lean veal, ham, bacon, + cuttings of beef, fowl, or game trimmings, three peppercorns, mushroom + trimmings, a tomato, a carrot and a turnip cut up, an onion stuck with two + cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley and marjoram. Put the lid on + the stewpan and braize well for fifteen minutes, then stir in a + tablespoonful of flour, and pour in a quarter pint of good boiling stock + and boil very gently for fifteen minutes, then strain through a tamis, + skim off all the grease, pour the sauce into an earthenware vessel, and + let it get cold. If it is not rich enough, add a little Liebig or glaze. + Pass through a sieve again before using. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 2. Velute Sauce + </h2> + <p> + The same as above, but use white stock, no beef, and only pheasant or fowl + trimmings, button mushrooms, cream instead of glaze, and a chopped + shallot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 3. Bechamel Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Butter, ham, veal, carrots, shallot, celery bay leaf, cloves, + thyme, peppercorns, potato flour, cream, fowl stock. + </p> + <p> + Prepare a mirepoix by mixing two ounces of butter, trimmings of lean veal + and ham, a carrot, a shallot, a little celery, all cut into dice, a bay + leaf, two cloves, four peppercorns, and a little thyme. Put this on a + moderate fire so as not to let it colour, and when all the moisture is + absorbed add a tablespoonful of potato flour. Mix well, and gradually add + equal quantities of cream and fowl stock, and stir till it boils. Then let + it simmer gently. Stir occasionally, and if it gets too thick, add more + cream and white stock. After two hours pass it twice slowly through a + tamis so as to get the sauce very smooth. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Bacon, onions, carrots, ham, a bunch of herbs, parsley, + mushrooms, cloves, peppercorns, stock, Chablis. + </p> + <p> + Put the following ingredients into a stewpan: Some bits of bacon and lean + ham, a carrot, all cut into dice, half an onion, a bunch of herbs, a few + mushroom cuttings, two cloves, and four peppercorns. To this add one and a + quarter pint of good stock and a glass of Chablis, boil rapidly for ten + minutes then simmer till it is reduced to a third. Pass through a sieve + and use for masking meat, fowl, fish, &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 5. Genoese Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Onion, butter, Burgundy, mushrooms, truffles, parsley, bay + leaf, Espagnole sauce (No.1), blond of veal, essence of fish, anchovy + butter, crayfish or lobster butter. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a small onion and fry it in butter, add a glass of Burgundy, some + cuttings of mushrooms and truffles, a pinch of chopped parsley and half a + bay leaf. Reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole + sauce, one cup of veal stock, and a tablespoonful of essence of fish, + reduce one-third and add it to the other saucepan, skim off all the + grease, boil for a few minutes, and pass through a sieve. Then stir it + over the fire, and add half a teaspoonful of crayfish and half of anchovy + butter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 6. Italian Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Chablis, mushrooms, leeks, a bunch of herbs, peppercorns, + Espagnole sauce, game gravy or stock, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Put into a stewpan two glasses of Chablis, two tablespoonsful of mushroom + trimmings, a leek cut up, a bunch of herbs, five peppercorns, and boil + till it is reduced to half. In another stewpan mix two glasses of + Espagnole (No. 1) or Velute sauce (No 2) and half a glass of game gravy, + boil for a few minutes then blend the contents of the two stewpans, pass + through a sieve, and add the juice of a lemon. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Ham, Musca or sweet port, vinegar, basil spice. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up an ounce of ham and pound it in a mortar then mix it with three + dessert spoonsful of port or Musca and a teaspoonful of vinegar a little + dried basil and a pinch of spice. Boil it up, and then pass it through a + sieve and warm it up in a bain-marie. Serve with roast meats. If you + cannot get a sweet wine add half a teaspoonful of sugar. Australian Muscat + is a good wine to use. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 8. Tarragon Sauce + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Tarragon, stock, butter, flour. + </h3> + <p> + To half a pint of good stock add two good sprays of fresh tarragon, simmer + for quarter of an hour in a stewpan and keep the lid on. In another + stewpan melt one ounce of butter and mix it with three dessert-spoonsful + of flour, then gradually pour the stock from the first stewpan over it, + but take out the tarragon. Mix well, add a teaspoonful of finely chopped + tarragon and boil for two minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 9. Tomato Sauce + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Tomatoes, ham, onions, basil, salt, oil, garlic, spices. + </h3> + <p> + Broil three tomatoes, skin them and mix them with a tablespoonful of + chopped ham, half an onion, salt, a dessert-spoonful of oil, a little + pounded spice and basil. Then boil and pass through a sieve. Whilst the + sauce is boiling, put in a clove of garlic with a cut, but remove it + before you pass the sauce through the sieve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Ham, butter, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, thyme, cloves, + peppercorns, vinegar, Chablis, stock, tomatoes, Velute or Espagnole sauce, + castor sugar, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Cut up an ounce of ham, half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of + celery very fine, and fry them in butter together with a bay leaf, a sprig + of thyme, one clove and four peppercorns. Over this pour a third of a cup + of vinegar, and when the liquid is all absorbed, add half a glass of + Chablis and a cup of stock. Then add six tomatoes cut up and strained of + all their liquid. Cook this in a covered stewpan and pass it through a + sieve, but see that none of the bay leaf or thyme goes through. Mix this + sauce with an equal quantity of Velute (No. 2) or Espagnole sauce, (No. + 1), let it boil and pass through a sieve again and at the last add a + teaspoonful of castor sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and an ounce of + fresh butter. (Another tomato sauce may be made like this, but use stock + instead of vinegar and leave out the lemon juice and sugar.) + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 11. Mushroom Sauce + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Velute sauce, essence of mushrooms, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Mix two dessert-spoonsful of essence of mushrooms with a cupful of Velute + sauce (No. 2), reduce, keep on stirring, and just before serving add an + ounce of butter. This sauce can be made with essence of truffle, or game, + or shallot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Onions, ham, butter, Marsala, blond of veal, thyme, bay leaf, + peppercorns, cloves, mushrooms, Espagnole sauce (No. 1), tomato sauce, + game stock or essence. + </p> + <p> + Fry an onion in butter with some bits of cut-up ham, then pour a glass of + Marsala over it, and another of blond of veal, add a sprig of thyme, a bay + leaf, four peppercorns, a clove, a tablespoonful of mushroom cuttings, and + reduce half. In another saucepan put two cups of Espagnole sauce, one + cupful of tomato sauce, and half a cup of game stock or essence. Reduce a + third, and add the contents of the first saucepan, boil the sauce a few + minutes, and pass it through a sieve. Warm it up in a bain-marie before + using. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Anchovies, fennel, flour, spices, parsley, marjoram, garlic, + lemon juice, vinegar, cream. + </p> + <p> + Wash three anchovies in vinegar, bone and pound them in a mortar with a + teaspoonful of chopped fennel and a pinch of cinnamon. Then mix in a + teaspoonful of chopped parsley and marjoram, a squeeze of lemon juice, a + teaspoonful of flour, half a gill of boiled cream and the bones of the + fish for which you will use this sauce. Pass through a sieve, add a clove + of garlic with a cut in it, and boil. If the fish you are using is cooked + in the oven, add a little of the liquor in which it has been cooked to the + sauce. Take out the garlic before serving. Instead of anchovies you may + use caviar, pickled tunny, or any other pickled fish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, stock, burnt sugar, vinegar, raisins, pine + nuts or almonds. + </p> + <p> + Mix two spoonsful of burnt sugar with one of vinegar, and dilute with a + little good stock. Then add two cups of Espagnole sauce (No. 1), a few + stoned raisins, and a few pinocchi* (pine nuts) or shredded almonds. Keep + this hot in a bain-marie, and serve with cutlets, calf's head or feet or + tongue. + </p> + <p> + *The pinocchi which Italians use instead of almonds can be bought in + London when in season. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Espagnole sauce, an onion, butter, flour, lemon, herbs, + nutmeg, raisins, pine nuts or almonds, burnt sugar. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a small bit of onion, fry it slightly in butter and a little flour, + add the juice of a lemon and a little of the peel grated, a bouquet of + herbs, a pinch of nutmeg, a few stoned raisins, shredded almonds or + pinocchi, and a tablespoonful of burnt sugar. Add this to a good Espagnole + (No. 1), and warm it up in a bain-marie. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 16. Supreme Sauce + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: White sauce, fowl stock, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Put three-quarters of a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and when it + is nearly boiling add half a cup of concentrated fowl stock. Reduce until + the sauce is quite thick, and when about to serve pass it through a tamis + into a bain-marie and add two tablespoonsful of cream. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Semolina flour, eggs, salt, butter (or olive oil), vinegar, + water. + </p> + <p> + Mix the following ingredients well together: two ounces of semolina flour, + the yolks of two eggs, a little salt, and two ounces of melted butter. Add + a glass of water so as to form a liquid substance. At the last add the + whites of two eggs beaten up to a snow. This will make a good paste for + masking meat, fish, vegetables, or sweets which are to be fried in the + Italian manner, but if for meat or vegetables add a few drops of vinegar + or a little lemon juice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 18. White Villeroy + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Butter, flour, eggs, cream, nutmeg, white stock. + </h3> + <p> + Make a light-coloured roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces + of flour, stir in some white stock and keep it very smooth. Let it boil, + and add the yolks of three eggs, mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream + and a pinch of nutmeg. Pass it through a sieve and use for masking + cutlets, fish, &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Soups + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 19. Clear Soup + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Stock meat, water, a bunch of herbs (thyme, parsley, chervil, + bay leaf, basil, marjoram), three carrots, three turnips, three onions, + three cloves stuck in the onions, one blade of mace. + </p> + <p> + Cut up three pounds of stock meat small and put it in a stock pot with two + quarts of cold water, three carrots, and three turnips cut up, three + onions with a clove stuck in each one, a bunch of herbs and a blade of + mace. Let it come to the boil and then draw it off, at once skim off all + the scum, and keep it gently simmering, and occasionally add two or three + tablespoonsful of cold water. Let it simmer all day, and then strain it + through a fine cloth. + </p> + <p> + Some of the liquor in which a calf's head has been cooked, or even a + calf's foot, will greatly improve a clear soup. + </p> + <p> + The stock should never be allowed to boil as long as the meat and + vegetables are in the stock pot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Clear soup, vegetables. + </h3> + <p> + Any fresh spring vegetables will do for this soup, but they must all be + cooked separately and put into the soup at the last minute. It is best + made with fresh peas, asparagus tips, and a few strips of tarragon. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Clear soup, fowl forcemeat, Bechamel (No. 3), peas, lobster + butter, eggs, asparagus. + </p> + <p> + Make a firm forcemeat of fowl and divide it into three parts, to the first + add two spoonsful of cream Bechamel, to the second four spoonsful of puree + of green peas, to the third two spoonsful of lobster butter and the yolk + of an egg; thus you will have the Italian colours, red, white, and green. + Butter a pie dish and make little quenelles of the forcemeat. Just before + serving boil them for four minutes in boiling stock, take them out + carefully and put them in a warm soup tureen with two spoonsful of cooked + green peas and pour a very fresh clear soup over them. Hand little + croutons fried in lobster butter separately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 22. Tuscan Soup + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Stock, eggs. + </h3> + <p> + Whip up three or four eggs, gradually add good stock to them, and keep on + whisking them up until they begin to curdle. Keep the soup hot in a + bain-marie. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 23. Venetian Soup + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Clear soup, butter, flour, Parmesan, eggs. + </h3> + <p> + Make a roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour, add an + ounce of grated cheese and half a cup of good stock. Mix up well so as to + form a paste, and then take it off the fire and add the yolks of four + eggs, mix again and form the again and form the paste into little + quenelles. Boil these in a little soup, strain off, put them into the + tureen and pour a good clear soup over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 24. Roman Soup + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Stock, butter, eggs, salt, crumb of bread, parsley, nutmeg, + flour, Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Mix three and a half ounces of butter with two eggs and four ounces of + crumbs of bread soaked in stock, a little chopped parsley, salt, and a + pinch of nutmeg. Reduce this and add two tablespoonsful of flour and one + of grated Parmesan. Form this into little quenelles and boil them in stock + for a few minutes put them into a tureen and pour a good clear soup over + them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Clear soup, savoury custard. + </h3> + <p> + Make a savoury custard and divide it into three parts, one to be left + white, another coloured red with tomato, and the third green with spinach. + Put a layer of each in a buttered saucepan and cook for about ten minutes, + cut it into dice, so that you have the three Italian colours (red, white, + and green) together, then put the custard into a soup tureen and pour a + good clear soup over it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0041" id="link2H_4_0041"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 26. Soup alla Modanese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Stock, spinach, butter, salt, eggs, Parmesan, nutmeg, + croutons. + </p> + <p> + Wash one pound of spinach in five or six waters, then chop it very fine + and mix it with three ounces of butter, salt it and warm it up. Then let + it get cold, pass through a hair sieve, and add two eggs, a tablespoonful + of grated Parmesan, and very little nutmeg. Add this to some boiling stock + in a copper saucepan, put on the lid, and on the top put some hot coals so + that the eggs may curdle and help to thicken the soup. Serve with fried + croutons. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0042" id="link2H_4_0042"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 27. Crotopo Soup + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Clear soup, veal, ham, eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, rolls. + </h3> + <p> + Pound half a pound of lean veal in a mortar, then add three ounces of + cooked ham with some fat in it, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and very + little nutmeg. Pass through a sieve, cut some small French rolls into + slices, spread them with the above mixture, and colour them in the oven. + Then cut them in halves or quarters, put them into a tureen, and just + before serving pour a very good clear soup over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0043" id="link2H_4_0043"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Breast of fowl, eggs, salt, pepper, ground rice, nutmeg, + clear stock. + </p> + <p> + Pound the breast of a fowl in a mortar, and add to it a teaspoonful of + ground rice, the yolk of an egg, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Pass + this through a sieve, form quenelles with it, and pour a good clear soup + over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0044" id="link2H_4_0044"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 29. Neapolitan Soup + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, potato flour, eggs, Bechamel sauce, peas, asparagus, + spinach, clear soup. + </p> + <p> + Mix a quarter pound of forcemeat of fowl with a tablespoonful of potato + flour, a tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and the yolk of an egg; + put this into a tube about the size round of an ordinary macaroni; twenty + minutes before serving squirt the forcemeat into a saucepan with boiling + stock, and nip off the forcemeat as it comes through the pipe into pieces + about an inch and a half long. Let it simmer, and add boiled peas and + asparagus tips. If you like to have the fowl macaroni white and green, you + can colour half the forcemeat with a spoonful of spinach colouring. Serve + in a good clear soup. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0045" id="link2H_4_0045"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 30. Soup with Risotto + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Risotto (No. 189), eggs, bread crumbs, clear or brown soup. + </h3> + <p> + If you have some good risotto left, you can use it up by making it into + little balls the size of small nuts. Egg and bread crumb and fry them in + butter; dry them and put them into a soup tureen with hot soup. The soup + may be either clear or brown. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0046" id="link2H_4_0046"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 31. Soup alla Canavese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: White stock, butter, onions, carrot, celery, tomato, + cauliflower, fat bacon, parsley, sage, Parmesan, salt, pepper. + </p> + <p> + Chop up half an onion, half a carrot, half a stick of celery, a small bit + of fat bacon, and fry them in two ounces of butter. Then cover them with + good white stock, boil for a few minutes, pass through a sieve, and add + two tablespoonsful of tomato puree. Then blanch half a cauliflower in + salted water, let it get cold, drain all the water out of it, and break it + up into little bunches and put them into a stock pot with the stock, a + small leaf of dried sage, crumbled up, and a little chopped parsley, and + let it all boil; add a pinch of grated cheese and some pepper. Serve with + grated Parmesan handed separately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0047" id="link2H_4_0047"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: White stock, eggs, butter, peas, white beans, carrot, onion, + leeks, celery, cream croutons. + </p> + <p> + Soak one pound of white beans for twelve hours, then put them into a stock + pot with a little salt, butter, and water, add a carrot, an onion, two + leeks, and a stick of celery, and simmer until the vegetables are well + cooked; then take out all the fresh vegetables, drain the beans and pass + them through a sieve, but first dilute them with good stock. Put this + puree into a stock pot with good white stock, and when it has boiled keep + it hot in a bain-marie until you are about to serve; then mix the yolk of + three eggs in a cup of cream, and add this to the soup. Pour the soup into + a warm tureen, add some boiled green peas, and serve with fried croutons + handed separately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0048" id="link2H_4_0048"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Stock, sorrel, endive, lettuce, chervil, celery, carrot, + onion, French roll, Parmesan cheese. + </p> + <p> + Boil the following vegetables and herbs in very good stock for an hour: + Two small bunches of sorrel, a bunch of endive, a lettuce, a small bunch + of chervil, a stick of celery, a carrot and an onion, all well washed and + cut up. Then put some slices of toasted French roll into a tureen and pour + the above soup over them. Serve with grated Parmesan handed separately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0049" id="link2H_4_0049"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Fowl stock, ground rice, milk, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Put a tablespoonful of ground rice into a saucepan and gradually add half + a pint of milk, boil it gently for twelve minutes in a bainmarie, but stir + the whole time, so as to get it very smooth. Just before serving add an + ounce of butter, pass it through a sieve, and mix it with good fowl stock. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0050" id="link2H_4_0050"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Minestre + </h2> + <p> + Minestra is a thick broth, very much like hotch-potch, only thicker. In + Italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner instead of soup; it + also makes an excellent lunch dish. Two or three tablespoonsful of No. 35 + will be found a great improvement to any of these minestre. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0051" id="link2H_4_0051"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c. + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Onions, celery, carrots, butter, salt, stock, tomatoes, + mushrooms. + </p> + <p> + Cut up an onion, a stick of celery, and a carrot; fry them in butter and + salt; add a few bits of cooked ham and veal cut up, two mushrooms, and the + pulp of a tomato. Cook for a quarter of an hour, and add a little stock + occasionally to keep it moist. Pass through a sieve, and use for seasoning + minestre, macaroni, rice, &c. It should be added when the dish is + nearly cooked. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0052" id="link2H_4_0052"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, butter, stock, vegetables. + </h3> + <p> + All sorts of vegetables will serve for this dish. Blanch them in boiling + salted water, then drain and fry them in butter. Add plenty of good stock, + and put them on a slow fire. Boil four ounces of rice in stock, and when + it is well done add the stock with the vegetables. Season with two or + three spoonsful of No. 35, and serve with grated cheese handed separately. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0053" id="link2H_4_0053"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, turnips, butter, gravy, tomatoes. + </h3> + <p> + Cut three or four young turnips into slices and put them on a dish, strew + a little salt over them, cover them with another dish, and let them stand + for about two hours until the water has run out of them. Then drain the + slices, put them in a frying-pan and fry them slightly in butter. Add some + good gravy and mashed-up tomatoes, and after having cooked this for a few + minutes pour it into good boiling stock. Add three ounces of well-washed + rice, and boil for half-an-hour. + </p> + <p> + Minestra loses its flavour if it is boiled too long. In Lombardy, however, + rice, macaroni, &c., are rarely boiled enough for English tastes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0054" id="link2H_4_0054"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, anchovies, butter, stock, and onions. + </h3> + <p> + Scale an anchovy, pound it, and fry it in butter together with a small + onion cut across, and four ounces of boiled rice. Add a little salt, and + when the rice is a golden brown, take out the onion and gradually add some + good stock until the dish is of the consistency of rice pudding. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0055" id="link2H_4_0055"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 39. Minestra of Semolina + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Stock, semolina, Parmesan. + </h3> + <p> + Put as much stock as you require into a saucepan, and when it begins to + boil add semolina very gradually, and stir to keep it from getting lumpy + Cook it until the semolina is soft, and serve with grated Parmesan handed + separately. To one quart of soup use three ounces of semolina. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0056" id="link2H_4_0056"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rice or macaroni, ham, bacon, stock, all sorts of vegetables. + </p> + <p> + Minestrone is a favourite dish in Lombardy when vegetables are plentiful. + Boil all sorts of vegetables in stock, and add bits of bacon, ham, onions + braized in butter, chopped parsley, a clove of garlic with two cuts, and + rice or macaroni. Put in those vegetables first which require most + cooking, and do not make the broth too thin. Leave the garlic in for a + quarter of an hour only. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0057" id="link2H_4_0057"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, cabbage, stock, ham, tomato sauce. + </h3> + <p> + Cut off the stalk and all the hard outside leaves of a cabbage, wash it + and cut it up, but not too small, then drain and cook it in good stock and + add two ounces of boiled rice. This minestre is improved by adding a + little chopped ham and a few spoonsful of tomato sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0058" id="link2H_4_0058"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Celery, rice, stock. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up a head of celery and remove all the green parts, then boil it in + good stock and add two ounces of rice, and boil till it is well cooked. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0059" id="link2H_4_0059"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Fish + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0060" id="link2H_4_0060"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels). + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eels, butter, flour, stock, bay leaves, salt, pepper, + Chablis, a macedoine of vegetables. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a big eel and fry it in two ounces of butter, and when it is a good + colour add a tablespoonful of flour, about half a pint of stock, a glass + of Chablis, a bay leaf, pepper, and salt, and boil till it is well cooked. + In the meantime boil separately all sorts of vegetables, such as carrots, + cauliflower, celery, beans, tomatoes, &c. Take out the pieces of eel, + but keep them hot, whilst you pass the liquor which forms the sauce + through a sieve and add the vegetables to this. Let them boil a little + longer and arrange them in a dish; place the pieces of eel on them and + cover with the sauce. It is most important that the eels should be served + very hot. + </p> + <p> + Any sort of fish will do as well for this dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0061" id="link2H_4_0061"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Fish, flour, butter, Villeroy. + </h3> + <p> + Any sort of fish will do, turbot, sole, trout, &c. Cut it into + fillets, flour them over and cook them in butter in a covered stewpan; + then make a Villeroy (No. 18), dip the fillets into it and fry them in + clarified butter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0062" id="link2H_4_0062"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Lobsters, Velute sauce, Marsala, butter, forcemeat of fish, + olives, anchovy butter, button mushrooms, truffles, lemon, crayfish, + Italian sauce. + </p> + <p> + Two boiled lobsters are necessary. Cut all the flesh of one of the + lobsters into fillets and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of + Velute sauce (No. 2) and half a glass of Marsala, and boil for a few + minutes. Put a crouton of fried bread on an oval dish and cover it with a + forcemeat of fish, and on this place the whole lobster, cover it with + buttered paper, and put it in a moderate oven just long enough to cook the + forcemeat. Then make some quenelles of anchovy butter, olives, and button + mushrooms, mix them with Italian sauce (No. 6), and garnish the dish with + them, and round the crouton arrange the fillets of lobster with a garnish + of slices of truffle. Add a dessert-spoonful of crayfish butter and a good + squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce, and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0063" id="link2H_4_0063"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cod or hake, carrots, turnips, butter, herbs. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a piece of cod or hake and break it up into flakes, then cut up two + carrots and a turnip; boil them gently, and when they are half boiled + drain and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, half a teacup + of boiling water, salt, and herbs. When they are well cooked add the fish + and serve. Fillets of lemon soles may also be cooked this way. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0064" id="link2H_4_0064"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Mullet, salt, pepper, onions, parsley, oil, water. + </h3> + <p> + Cut a mullet into pieces and put it into a stewpan (with the lid on), with + salt, pepper, a cut-up onion, some chopped parsley, half a wineglass of + the finest olive oil and half a pint of water, and in this cook the fish + gently. Arrange the fillets on a dish, pour a little of the broth over + them, and add the onion and parsley. Instead of mullet you can use cod, + hake, whiting, lemon sole, &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0065" id="link2H_4_0065"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Mullet, butter, salt, onions, parsley, almonds, anchovies, + button mushrooms, tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Cut off the fins and gills of a mullet, put it in a fireproof dish with + two ounces of butter and salt. Cut up a small bit of onion, a sprig of + parsley, a few blanched almonds, one anchovy, and a few button mushrooms, + previously softened in hot water, and put them over the fish and bake for + twenty minutes Then add two tablespoonsful of tomato sauce or puree, and + when cooked serve. If you like, use sole instead of mullet. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0066" id="link2H_4_0066"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Mullet (or sole or turbot), butter, salt half a lemon, + Chablis. + </p> + <p> + Put the fish in a fireproof dish with one and a half ounces of butter, + salt, a squeeze of lemon juice, and half a glass of Chablis. Put it on a + very, slow fire and turn the fish when necessary. When it is cooked serve + in the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0067" id="link2H_4_0067"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Whiting, butter, pepper, salt, bay leaf claret, parsley, + onions, garlic capers, vinegar, Espagnole sauce, mushrooms, anchovies. + </p> + <p> + Put one or two whiting into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, salt, + pepper, two bay leaves, and a glass of claret or Burgundy; cook on a hot + fire and turn the fish when necessary. Have ready beforehand a remoulade + sauce made in the following manner: Put in a saucepan 1 1/2 ounces of + butter, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an onion, a clove of + garlic (with one cut), four capers, one anchovy, all chopped up except the + garlic. Then add three tablespoonsful of vinegar and reduce the sauce. Add + two glasses of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a little good stock; boil it + all up (take out the garlic and bay leaves) and pass through a sieve, then + pour it over the whiting. Boil it all again for a few minutes, and before + serving garnish with a few button mushrooms cooked separately. The + remoulade sauce will be much better if made some hours beforehand. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0068" id="link2H_4_0068"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cod or whiting, salt, onions, parsley, cloves, turnips, + marjoram, chervil, milk. + </p> + <p> + Boil gently in a big cupful of salted water two onions, one turnip, a + pinch of chopped parsley, chervil, and marjoram and four cloves. After + half an hour pass this through a sieve (but first take out the cloves), + and add an equal quantity of milk and a little cream, and in this cook the + fish and serve with the sauce over it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0069" id="link2H_4_0069"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cod, hake, whiting or red mullet, onions, parsley, mint, + marjoram, turnips, mushrooms, chervil, cloves, salt, milk, cream, eggs. + </p> + <p> + Put a salt-spoonful of salt, two onions, a little parsley, marjoram, mint, + chervil, a turnip, a mushroom, and the heads of two cloves into a stewpan + and simmer in a cupful of milk for half an hour, then let all the + ingredients settle at the bottom, and pass the broth through a hair sieve, + and add to it an equal quantity of milk or cream, and in it cook your fish + on a slow fire. When the fish is quite cooked, pour off the sauce, but + leave a little on the fish to keep it warm; reduce the rest in a + bain-marie; stir all the time, so that the milk may not curdle. Thicken + the sauce with the yolk of an egg, and when about to serve pour it over + the fish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0070" id="link2H_4_0070"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Haddock or lemon sole, carrots, anchovies, lemon, pepper, + butter, onions, flour, white wine, stock. + </p> + <p> + Stuff a haddock (or filleted lemon sole) with some slices of carrot which + have been masked with a paste made of pounded anchovies, very little + chopped lemon peel, salt and pepper. Then fry an onion with two cuts + across it in butter. Take out the onion as soon as it has become a golden + colour, flour the fish and put it in the butter, and when it has been well + fried on both sides pour a glass of Marsala over it, and when it is all + absorbed add a cup of fowl or veal stock and let it simmer for half an + hour, then skim and reduce the sauce, pour it over the fish and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0071" id="link2H_4_0071"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Whiting, onions, parsley, peas, tomatoes, butter, Parmesan, + Bechamel sauce. + </p> + <p> + Cut a big whiting into two or three pieces and fry them slightly in + butter, add a small bit of onion, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and fry + for a few minutes more. Then add some peas which have been cooked in + salted water, three tablespoonsful of Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and three of + tomato puree, and cook all together on a moderate fire. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0072" id="link2H_4_0072"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, shallot, anchovies, fennel pepper, bread + crumbs, cream, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Detach the oysters from their shells and put then into china shells with + their own liquor. Have ready a dessert-spoonful of parsley, shallot, + anchovy and very little fennel, add a tablespoonful of bread crumbs and a + little pepper, and mix the whole with a little cream. Put some of this + mixture on each oyster, and then bake them in a moderate fire for a + quarter of an hour. At the last minute add a squeeze of lemon juice to + each oyster and serve on a folded napkin. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0073" id="link2H_4_0073"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Oysters, parsley, celery, thyme, pepper, garlic, oil, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Prepare the oysters as above, but rub each shell with a little garlic. Put + on each oyster a mixture made of chopped parsley, a little thyme, pepper, + and bread crumbs. Then pour a few drops of oil on each shell, put them on + the gridiron on an open fire, grill for a few minutes, and add a little + lemon juice before serving. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0074" id="link2H_4_0074"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Oysters, butter, shallots, truffles, lemon juice, forcemeat + of fish. + </p> + <p> + Take several oysters out of their shells and cook them in butter, a little + chopped shallot, and their own liquor, add a little lemon juice and then + put in each of the deeper shells a layer of forcemeat made of fish and + chopped truffles, then an oyster or two, and over this again another layer + of the forcemeat, cover up with the top shell and put them in a fish + kettle and steam them. Then remove the top shell and arrange the shells + with the oysters on a napkin and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0075" id="link2H_4_0075"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Any sort of fish, celery, parsley, carrots, garlic, onion, + anchovies, almonds, capers, mushrooms, butter, salt, pepper, flour, + tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Chop up a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot, an onion. Pound + up an anchovy in brine (well cleaned, boned, and scaled), four shredded + almonds, three capers and two mushrooms. Put all this into a saucepan with + one ounce of butter, salt and pepper, and fry for a few minutes, then add + a few spoonsful of hot water and a tablespoonful of flour and boil gently + for ten minutes, put in the fish and cook it until it is done. If you + like, you may add a little tomato sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0076" id="link2H_4_0076"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fish (sole, mullet, or turbot), butter, salt, onion, garlic, + carrots, celery, parsley, nutmeg, pepper, spice, mushrooms, tomatoes, + flour, anchovies. + </p> + <p> + Fry an onion slightly in one and a half ounces of butter, add a small + cut-up carrot, half a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, and a salt + anchovy (scaled), which will dissolve in the butter. Into this put the + fish cut up in pieces, a pinch of spice and pepper, and let it simmer for + a few minutes, then add two cut-up mushrooms, a tomato mashed up, and a + little flour. Mix all together, and cook for twenty minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0077" id="link2H_4_0077"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sole, onion, beetroot, butter, celery, tomato sauce or white + wine. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in one ounce of butter, then add + some slices of beetroot (well-washed and drained), and a little celery cut + up; to this add fillets of sole or haddock, salt and pepper. Boil on a + moderate on the fish kettle. When the beetroot is nearly cooked add two + tablespoonsful of tomato puree and boil till all is well cooked. Instead + of the tomato you may use half a glass of Chablis. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0078" id="link2H_4_0078"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sole (or mullet), butter, anchovies, parsley, garlic, capers, + eggs. + </p> + <p> + Put an ounce of butter and an anchovy in a saucepan together with a sole + or mullet. Fry lightly for a few minutes, then strew a little pepper and + chopped parsley over it, put in a clove of garlic with one cut, and cook + for half an hour, but turn the fish over when one side is sufficiently + done. A few minutes before taking it off the fire add three capers and + stir in the yolk of an egg at the last minute. Do not leave the garlic in + more than five minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0079" id="link2H_4_0079"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Sole, butter, garlic, pepper, salt, tomatoes, fennel. + </h3> + <p> + Fillet a sole and put it in a saute-pan with one and a half ounces of + butter and a clove of garlic with one cut in it, then sprinkle over it a + little chopped fennel, salt and pepper, and let it cook for a few minutes. + Turn over the fillets w hen they are sufficiently cooked on one side, take + out the garlic and cover the fish with a puree of tomatoes at the last. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0080" id="link2H_4_0080"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sole, anchovies, butter, bacon, onion, stock, Chablis, salt, + nutmeg, parsley, Spanish olives, one bay leaf. + </p> + <p> + Fillet a sole and interlard each piece with a bit of anchovy. Tie up the + fillets and put them in a saute-pan with two ounces of butter, a slice of + bacon or ham, and a few small slices of onion. Cover half over with good + stock and a glass of Chablis, and add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, a bunch of + parsley, and a bay leaf. Cover with buttered paper, and cook on a slow + fire for about an hour. Drain the fish, pass the liquor through a sieve, + reduce it to the consistency of a thick sauce, and pour it over the fish. + Garnish each fillet with a Spanish olive stuffed with anchovy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0081" id="link2H_4_0081"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).* + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Sole, Parmesan, butter, cream, cayenne. + </h3> + <p> + Fillet a sole and wipe each piece with a clean cloth, then place them in a + fireproof dish, and put a small piece of butter on each fillet. Then make + a good white sauce, and mix it with two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan + and half a gill of cream. Cover the fish well with the sauce, and bake in + a moderate oven for twenty minutes. + </p> + <p> + *Lemon soles may be used in any of the above-named dishes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0082" id="link2H_4_0082"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Salmon, Genoese sauce (No. 5), butter, lemon. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a bit of salmon, drain it, take off the skin, and mask it with a + Genoese sauce, to which add a spoonful of the water in which the salmon + has been boiled, and at the last add a pat of fresh butter and a squeeze + of lemon juice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0083" id="link2H_4_0083"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, truffles, butter, Madeira, + croutons of bread, crayfish tails, anchovy butter. + </p> + <p> + Cut a bit of salmon into well shaped fillets, and marinate them in lemon + juice and a bunch of herbs for two hours, wipe them, put a layer of + forcemeat of fish over each, and decorate them with slices of truffle. + When put them into a well-buttered saute-pan with half a cup of stock and + a glass of Madeira or Marsala, cover with buttered paper, and put them + into a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Arrange the fillets in a circle + on croutons of bread, garnish the centre with crayfish tails and with + truffles cut into dice, a quarter of a pint of Velute sauce (No. 2), and + half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter. Glaze the fillets and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0084" id="link2H_4_0084"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Salmon, forcemeat of fish, vegetables, butter, Bechamel, and + Espagnole sauce. + </p> + <p> + Prepare the fillets as above (No. 66), and put on each a layer of white + forcemeat of fish. Cook a macedoine of vegetables separately, and garnish + each fillet with some of it, then cook them in a covered stewpan Put a + crouton of bread in an entree dish and garnish it with cooked peas, mixed + with Bechamel sauce (No. 3), stock, and butter. Around this place the + fillets of fish, leaving the centre with the peas uncovered. Pour some + rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) round the fillets and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0085" id="link2H_4_0085"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, thyme, salt, pepper, nutmeg, + mayonnaise sauce, lobster butter, gelatine, Velute sauce, olives, anchovy + butter, white truffles, mushrooms in oil, crayfish. + </p> + <p> + Boil a piece of salmon, and when cold cut it into fillets and marinate + them for two hours in oil, lemon juice, salt, thyme pepper, and nutmeg. + Then make a good mayonnaise and add to it some lobster butter mixed with a + little dissolved gelatine and Velute sauce (No. 2). Wipe the fillets and + arrange them in a circle on a dish, and pour the mayonnaise over them. + Then decorate the border of the dish with aspic jelly, and in the centre + put some stoned Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy butter, truffles, + mushrooms in oil, and crayfish tails. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0086" id="link2H_4_0086"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Salmon, eggs, mayonnaise, parsley, flour. + </h3> + <p> + Marinate a piece of boiled salmon for an hour; take out the bone and cut + the fish into fillets, wipe them, roll them in flour and dip them in eggs + beaten up or in mayonnaise sauce, and fry them a good colour. Arrange in a + circle on the dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with Dutch or + mayonnaise sauce. Any fillets of fish may be cooked in this manner. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0087" id="link2H_4_0087"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Salmon, butter, onions, parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, stock, + Chablis, Espagnole sauce (No.1) mushrooms, anchovy butter, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Put a firm piece of salmon in a stewpan with one and a half ounces of + butter, an onion cut up, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley (blanched), + salt, pepper, very little nutmeg, a cup of stock, and a glass of Chablis. + Cook for half an hour over a hot fire, turn the salmon occasionally, and + if it gets dry, add a cup of Espagnole sauce. Let it boil until + sufficiently cooked, and then put it on a dish. Into the sauce put four + mushrooms cooked in white sauce, half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter and + a little lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the salmon and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0088" id="link2H_4_0088"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Salmon, oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, herbs. + </h3> + <p> + Cut a piece of salmon into fillets, marinate them in oil, lemon juice, + salt, pepper, nutmeg, and herbs for two hours. Wipe and put them into + paper souffle cases with a little oil, butter, and herbs. Cook them on a + gridiron, and serve with a sauce piquante made in the following manner: + Half a pint of rich Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and a dessert-spoonful of New + Century{*} sauce, warmed up in a bain-marie. + </p> + <p> + *Can be obtained at Messrs Lazenby's, Wigmoree Street, W. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0089" id="link2H_4_0089"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C. + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0090" id="link2H_4_0090"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fillet of beef or rump steak, bacon, olive oil, salt, nutmeg, + anchovies, herbs, stock, garlic. + </p> + <p> + Put a piece of very tender rump steak or fillet of beef into a stewpan + with two slices of fat bacon and three teaspoonsful of the finest olive + oil; season with salt and a tiny pinch of nutmeg; let it cook uncovered, + and turn the meat over occasionally. When it is nicely browned add an + anchovy minced and mixed with chopped herbs, and a small clove of garlic + with one cut across it. Then cover the whole with good stock, put the + cover on the stewpan, and when it is all sufficiently cooked, skim the + grease off the sauce, pass it through a sieve, and pour it over the beef. + Leave the garlic in for five minutes only. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0091" id="link2H_4_0091"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Beef, mutton, or veal, onions, rosemary, Burgundy, tomatoes, + stock, potatoes, butter, garlic. + </p> + <p> + Cut up an onion and three leaves of rosemary, fry them slightly in an + ounce of butter, then add meat (beef, mutton, or veal), cut into + fair-sized pieces, salt it and fry it a little, then pour half a glass of + Burgundy over it, and add two tablespoonsful of tomato conserve, or better + still, fresh tomatoes in a puree. Cover up the stewpan and cook gently, + stir occasionally, and add some stock if the stew gets too dry. If you + like to add potatoes, cut them up, put them in the stewpan an hour before + serving, and cook them with the meat. A clove of garlic with one cut may + be added for five minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0092" id="link2H_4_0092"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rump steak, ham, salt, pepper, spice, fat bacon, onion, + stock, white wine. + </p> + <p> + Lard a bit of good rump steak with bits of lean ham, and season it with + salt, pepper, and a little spice, slightly brown it in butter for a few + minutes, then cover it with three or four slices of fat bacon and put it + into a stewpan with an onion chopped up, a cup of good stock, and half a + glass of white wine; cook with the cover on the stewpan for about an hour. + You may add a clove of garlic for ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0093" id="link2H_4_0093"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Beef steak, butter, onions, stock, sausage meat. + </h3> + <p> + Cut some thin slices of beef steak, and on each place a little forcemeat + of fowl or veal, to which add a little sausage meat: roll up the slices of + beef and cook them with butter and onions, and when they are well browned + pour some stock over them, and let them absorb it. Serve with a tomato + sauce (No. 10), or sauce piquante made with a quarter of a pint of rich + Espagnole (No. 1), and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce (see No. 71 + note). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0094" id="link2H_4_0094"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rump steak, bacon, ham, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, + butter, onions, Burgundy. + </p> + <p> + Beat a piece of rump steak to make it tender and lard it well, cut up some + bits of fat bacon and dust them over with salt, pepper, and a tiny pinch + of cinnamon, and put them on the steak. Stick three cloves into the steak, + then put it into a stewpan, add a little of the fat of the beef chopped + up, an ounce of butter, an onion cut up, and some bits of lean ham. Put in + sufficient stock to cover the steak, add a glass of Burgundy, and stew + gently until it is cooked. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0095" id="link2H_4_0095"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Beef, salt, larding bacon, Burgundy, vinegar, spices, herbs, + flour. + </p> + <p> + Beat a piece of rump steak, or fillet to make it tender; sprinkle it well + with salt and some chopped herbs, and leave it for an hour; then lard it + and marinate it as follows: Half a pint of red wine (Australian Harvest + Burgundy is best), half a glass of vinegar, a pinch of spice, and a + bouquet of herbs; leave it in this for twenty-four hours then take it out, + drain it well sprinkle it with flour, and roast it for twenty minutes + before a clear fire, braize it till quite tender, then press and glaze it. + The thin end of a sirloin is excellent cooked this way. Serve cold. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0096" id="link2H_4_0096"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Beef, beetroot, salt. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up three raw beetroots put them into an earthen ware pot and cover + them with water. Keep them in some warm place, and allow them to ferment + for five, six, or eight days according to the season; the froth at the top + of the water will indicate the necessary fermentation. The take out the + pieces of beetroot, skim off all the froth, and into the fermented liquor + put a good piece of tender rump steak or fillet with some salt. Braize for + four hours and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0097" id="link2H_4_0097"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Beef, oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, parsley, capers, mushrooms, + olives, vegetables. + </p> + <p> + Cook a fillet of beef (or the thin end of a sirloin), which has been + previously marinated for two days in oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, and + chopped parsley. When cold press and glaze it, garnish it with capers, + mushrooms preserved in vinegar or gherkins, olives, and any kind of + vegetables marinated like the beef. Serve cold. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0098" id="link2H_4_0098"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Fillet of beef, oil, salt, flour, pistacchio nuts, gravy. + </h3> + <p> + Cut a piece of tender beef into little fillets, and put a them in a + stewpan with a tablespoonful of olive oil and salt. After they have cooked + for a few minutes, powder them with flour, and strew over each fillet some + chopped pistacchio nuts. Add a few spoonsful of very good boiling gravy, + and cook for another half-hour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0099" id="link2H_4_0099"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rump steak, butter, rice, truffles, tongue, stock, mushrooms. + </p> + <p> + Slightly stew a bit of rump steak with bits of tongue and mushrooms; let + it get cold, and cut it into scallops. Butter a pie dish, and garnish the + bottom of it with cooked tongue and slices of cooked truffle, then over + this put a layer of well-cooked and seasoned risotto (No. 190), then a + layer of the scallops of beef, and then another layer of risotto. Heat in + a bain-marie, and turn out of the pie dish, and serve with a very good + sauce poured round it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0100" id="link2H_4_0100"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Tendons of veal, fowl forcemeat, truffles, risotto (No. 190), + a cock's comb, tongue. + </p> + <p> + Tendons of veal are that part of the breast which lies near the ribs, and + forms an opaque gristly substance. Partly braize a fine bit of this joint, + and press it between two plates till cold. Cut it up into fillets, and on + each spread a thin layer of fowl forcemeat, and decorate with slices of + truffle. Put the fillets into a stewpan, cover them with very good stock, + and boil till the forcemeat and truffles are quite cooked. Prepare a + risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), put it on a dish and decorate it with bits + of red tongue cut into shapes, and in the centre put a whole cooked + truffle and a white cock's comb, both on a silver skewer. Place the + tendons of veal round the dish. Add a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) and + serve. + </p> + <p> + If you like, leave out the risotto and serve the veal with Espagnole sauce + mixed with cooked peas and chopped truffle. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0101" id="link2H_4_0101"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal, salt, pepper, butter, bacon, carrots, flour, Chablis, + water, lemon. + </p> + <p> + Cut a bit of veal steak into pieces the size of small cutlets, salt and + pepper them, and put them in a wide low stewpan. Add two ounces of butter, + a cut-up carrot, and some bits of bacon also cut up. When they are + browned, add a spoonful of flour, half a glass of Chablis, and half a + glass of water, and cook on a slow fire for half an hour, then take out + the cutlets, reduce the sauce, and pass it through a sieve. Put it back on + the fire and add an ounce of butter and a good squeeze of lemon, and when + hot pour it over the cutlets. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0102" id="link2H_4_0102"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal cutlets (fowl or turkey cutlets), forcemeat, truffles, + mushrooms, tongue, parsley, pasta marinate (No. 17). + </p> + <p> + Cut a few horizontal lines along your cutlets, and on each put a little + veal or fowl forcemeat, to which add in equal quantities chopped truffles, + tongue, mushrooms, and a little parsley. Over this put a thin layer of + pasta marinate, and fry the cutlets on a slow fire. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0103" id="link2H_4_0103"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Breast of veal, butter, onions, sugar, stock, red wine, + mushrooms, bacon, salt, flour, bay leaf. + </p> + <p> + Roast a bit of breast of veal, then glaze over two Spanish onions with + butter and a little sugar, and when they are a good colour pour a teacup + of stock and a glass of Burgundy over them, and add a few mushrooms, a bay + leaf, some salt, and a few bits of bacon. When the mushrooms and onions + are cooked, skim off the fat and thicken the sauce with a little flour and + butter fried together; pour it over the veal and put the onions and + mushrooms round the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0104" id="link2H_4_0104"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Veal, butter, Marsala, stock, lemon, bacon. + </h3> + <p> + Cut a tender bit of veal steak into small fillets, cut off all the fat and + stringy parts, flour them and fry them in butter. When they are slightly + browned add a glass of Marsala and a teacup of good stock, and fry on a + very hot fire, so that the fillets may remain tender. Take them off the + fire, put a little roll of fried bacon on each, add a squeeze of lemon + juice, and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0105" id="link2H_4_0105"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal steak, butter, bread, eggs, pistacchio nuts, spice, + parsley. + </p> + <p> + Cut some slices of veal steak very thin as for veal olives, and spread + them out in a well-buttered stewpan. On each slice of veal put half a + spoonful of the following mixture: Pound some crumb of bread and mix it + with a whole egg; add a little salt, some pistacchio nuts, herbs, and + parsley chopped up, and a little butter. Roll up each slice of veal, cover + with a sheet of buttered paper, put the cover on the stewpan and cook for + three-quarters of an hour in two ounces of butter on a slow fire. Thicken + the sauce with a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter fried together. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0106" id="link2H_4_0106"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Ribs of veal, butter, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs, parsley. + </p> + <p> + Cut all the sinews from a piece of neck or ribs of veal, cover the meat + with plenty of butter and half cook it on a slow fire, then let it get + cold. When cold, egg it over and roll it in bread crumbs mixed with a + tablespoonful of grated Parmesan; fry in butter and serve with a garnish + of fried parsley and a rich sauce. A dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce + mixed with quarter of a pint of good thick stock makes a good sauce. (See + No. 226.) + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0107" id="link2H_4_0107"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Mutton cutlets, butter, olives, mushrooms, cucumbers. + </h3> + <p> + Trim as many cutlets as you require, and marinate them in vinegar, herbs, + and spice for two hours. Before cooking wipe them well and then saute them + in clarified butter, and when they are well coloured on both sides and + resist the pressure of the finger, drain off the butter and pour four + tablespoonsful of Espagnole sauce (No. 1) with a teaspoonful of vinegar + and six bruised pepper corns over them. Arrange them on a dish, putting + between each cutlet a crouton of fried bread, and garnish with olives + stuffed with chopped mushrooms and with slices of fried cucumber. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0108" id="link2H_4_0108"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Breast of mutton, veal, forcemeat, eggs, herbs, spice, + Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Stuff a breast of mutton with veal forcemeat mixed with two eggs beaten + up, herbs, a little spice, and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, braize + it in stock with a bunch of herbs and two onions. Serve with Italian sauce + (No. 6). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0109" id="link2H_4_0109"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Same as No. 90. + </h3> + <p> + When the breast of mutton has been stuffed and cooked as above, let it get + cold and then cut it into fillets, flour them over, fry in butter, and + serve with tomato sauce piquante (No. 10), or one dessert-spoonful of New + Century sauce in a quarter pint of good stock or gravy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0110" id="link2H_4_0110"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, eggs, bread crumbs, truffles, butter, stock, + Villeroy sauce. + </p> + <p> + Slightly cook the tendons (the part of the breast near the ribs) of lamb, + press them between two dishes till cold, then cut into a good shape and + dip them into a Villeroy sauce (No. 18) egg and bread-crumb, and saute + them in butter. When about to serve, put them in a dish with very good + clear gravy. A teaspoonful of chopped mint and a tablespoonful of chopped + truffles mixed with the bread crumbs will be a great improvement. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0111" id="link2H_4_0111"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Tendons of lamb, butter, parsley, onions, stock. + </h3> + <p> + Fry the tendons of lamb in butter together with a teaspoonful of chopped + parsley and an onion. Serve with good gravy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0112" id="link2H_4_0112"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Lamb cutlets, butter, stock, cocks' combs, fowl's liver, + mushrooms. + </p> + <p> + Fry as many lamb cutlets as you require very sharply in butter, drain off + the butter and replace it with some very good stock or gravy. Make a + ragout of cocks' combs, bits of fowl's liver and mushrooms all cut up; add + a white sauce with half a gill of cream mixed with it, and with this mask + the cutlets, and saute them for fifteen minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0113" id="link2H_4_0113"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &C. + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0114" id="link2H_4_0114"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 95. Timballo alla Romana + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cold fowl, game, or sweetbread, butter, lard, flour, + Parmesan, truffles, macaroni, onions, cream. + </p> + <p> + Make a light paste of two ounces of butter, two of lard, and half a pound + of flour, and put it in the larder for two hours. In the meantime boil a + little macaroni and let it get cold, then line a plain mould with the + paste, and fill it with bits of cut-up fowl, or game, or sweetbread, bits + of truffle cut in small dice, grated Parmesan, and a little chopped onion. + Put these ingredients in alternately, and after each layer add enough + cream to moisten. Fill the mould quite full, then roll out a thin paste + for the top and press it well together at the edges to keep the cream from + boiling out. Bake it in a moderate oven for an hour and a half, turn it + out of the mould, and serve with a rich brown sauce. Decorate the top with + bits of red tongue and truffles cut into shapes or with a little chopped + pistacchio nut. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0115" id="link2H_4_0115"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Macaroni, fowl or game, eggs, stock, Velute sauce (No. 2), + tongue, butter, truffles. + </p> + <p> + Butter a smooth mould, then boil some macaroni, but take care that it is + in long pieces. When cold, take the longest bits and line the bottom of + the mould, making the macaroni go in circles; and when you come to the end + of one piece, join on the next as closely as possible until the whole + mould is lined; paint it over now and then with white of egg beaten up; + then mask the whole inside with a thin layer of forcemeat of fowl, which + should also be put on with white of egg to make it adhere; then cut up the + bits of macaroni which remain, warm them up in some good fowl stock and + Velute sauce much reduced, a little melted butter, some bits of truffle + cut into dice, tongue, fowl, or game also cut up in pieces. When the mould + is full, put on another layer of forcemeat, steam for an hour, then turn + out and serve with a very good brown sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0116" id="link2H_4_0116"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Tongue, glaze, bread, spinach, white grapes, port. + </h3> + <p> + Soak a smoked tongue in fresh water for forty-eight hours, then boil it + till it is tender. Peel off the skin, cut the tongue in rather thick + slices, and glaze them. Prepare an oval border of fried bread, cover it + with spinach about two inches thick, and on this arrange the slices of + tongue. Fill in the centre of the dish with white grapes cooked in port or + muscat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0117" id="link2H_4_0117"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Ox tongue, salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, bacon, veal, + carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, cloves, stock. + </p> + <p> + Gently boil an ox tongue until you can peel off the skin, then lard it, + season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped parsley, and boil it with + some bits of bacon, ham, veal, a carrot, an onion, two bay leaves, thyme + and two cloves. Pour some good stock over it and let it simmer gently + until it is cooked. Put the tongue on a dish and garnish it with slices of + fried cucumber. Boil the cucumber for five minutes before you fry it, to + take away the bitter taste. Serve the tongue with a sauce piquante, made + with one dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce to a quarter pint of good + Espangole sauce (No. 1). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0118" id="link2H_4_0118"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sheep's tongues, bacon, beef, onions, herbs, spice, eggs, + butter, flour. + </p> + <p> + Cook three or four sheep's tongues in good stock, and add some slices of + bacon, bits of beef, two onions, a bunch of herbs, and a pinch of spice. + Let them get cold, flour them and mask them with egg beaten up and fry + quickly in butter. Serve with Italian sauce (No. 6) + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0119" id="link2H_4_0119"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calves' tongues, salt, butter, stock, water, glaze, potatoes, + ham, truffles, sauce piquante. + </p> + <p> + Rub a good handful of salt into two or three calves' tongues and leave + them for twenty-four hours, then wash off all the salt and soak them in + fresh water for two hours. Stew them gently till tender, take them out, + skin and braize them in butter and good stock for half an hour. Let them + get cold and cut them into slices about half an inch thick; put the slices + into a buttered saute-pan and cover them with a good thick glaze; let them + get quite hot and then arrange them on a border of potatoes, and garnish + each slice with round shapes of cooked ham and truffle. Fill the centre + with any vegetables you like; fried cucumber is excellent, but if you use + it do not forget to boil it for five minutes before you fry it to take + away the bitter taste. Serve with a sauce piquante (No. 10, or No. 226). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0120" id="link2H_4_0120"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sucking pig, ham, eggs, Parmesan, truffles, mushrooms, + garlic, bay leaves, coriander seeds, pistacchio nuts, veal forcemeat, + suet, bacon, herbs, spice. + </p> + <p> + Bone a sucking pig, remove all the inside and fill it with a stuffing made + of veal forcemeat mixed with a little chopped suet, ham, bacon, herbs, two + tablespoonsful of finely chopped pistacchio nuts, a pinch of spice, six + coriander seeds, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, cuttings of + truffles and mushrooms all bound together with eggs. Sew the pig up and + braize it in a big stewpan with bits of bacon, a clove of garlic with two + cuts, a bunch of herbs and one bay leaf, for half an hour. Then pour off + the gravy, cover the pig with well-buttered paper, and finish cooking it + in the oven. Garnish the top with vegetables and truffles cut into shapes, + slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Serve with a good sauce piquante + (No. 229). Do not leave the garlic in for more than ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0121" id="link2H_4_0121"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sucking pig, forcemeat of fowl, bacon, truffles, pistacchio + nuts, ham, lemon, veal, bay leaves, salt, carrots, onions, shallots, + parsley, stock, Chablis, gravy. + </p> + <p> + Bone a sucking pig all except its feet, but be careful not to cut the skin + on its back. Lay it out on a napkin and line it inside with a forcemeat of + fowl and veal about an inch thick, over this put a layer of bits of + marinated bacon, slices of truffle, pistacchio nuts, cooked ham, and some + of the flesh of the pig, then another layer of forcemeat until the pig's + skin is fairly filled. Keep its shape by sewing it lightly together, then + rub it all over with lemon juice and cover it with slices of fat bacon, + roll it up and stitch it in a pudding cloth. Then put the bones and + cuttings into a stewpan with bits of bacon and veal steak cut up, two bay + leaves, salt, a carrot, an onion, a shallot, and a bunch of parsley. Into + this put the pig with a bottle of white wine and sufficient stock to cover + it, and cook on a slow fire for three hours. Then take it out, and when + cold take off the pudding-cloth. Pass the liquor through a hair sieve, + and, if necessary, add some stock; reduce and clarify it. Decorate the + dish with this jelly and serve cold. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0122" id="link2H_4_0122"> + <!-- H2 --> + <!-- anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal or fowl, ox palates, stock, tongue, truffles, butter, + mushrooms, sweetbread. + </p> + <p> + Soak two ox palates in salted water for four hours, then boil them until + the rough skin comes off, and cook them in good stock for six hours, press + them between two plates and let them get cold. Roll some forcemeat of veal + or fowl in flour, cut it into small pieces about the size of a cork, boil + them in salted water, let them get cold and cut them into circular pieces. + Cut the ox palates also into circular pieces the same size as the bits of + forcemeat, then thinner circles of cooked tongue and truffles. String + these pieces alternately on small silver skewers. Reduce to half its + quantity a pint of Velute sauce (No. 2), and add the cuttings of the + truffles, mushroom trimmings, bits of sweetbread, and a squeeze of lemon + juice. Let it get cold and then mask the atelets (or skewers with the + forcemeat, &c.) with it, and fry them quickly in butter. Fry a large + oval crouton of bread, scoop out the centre and fill it with fried slices + of cucumber and truffles boiled in a little Chablis. Stick the skewers + into the crouton and pour the sauce round it. + </p> + <p> + For a maigre dish use fillets of fish, truffles, mushrooms, and Bechamel + sauce (No. 3). The cucumber should be boiled for five minutes before it is + fried. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0123" id="link2H_4_0123"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal, sweetbread, calf's brains, ox palates, mushrooms, fonds + d'artichauds, cocks' combs, eggs, Parmesan, bread crumbs. + </p> + <p> + Cook two ox palates as in the last recipe, then take equal quantities of + veal steak, sweetbread, calf's brains, equal quantities of mushrooms, + fonds d'artichauds, and cocks' combs. Fry them all in butter except the + palates, but be careful to put the veal in first, as it requires longer + cooking; the brains should go in last. Then put all these ingredients on a + cutting board and add the palates (cooked separately); cut them all into + pieces of equal size, either round or square, but keep the ingredients + separate, and string them alternately on silver skewers, as in the last + recipe. Then pound up all the cuttings and add a little crumb of bread + soaked in stock, the yolks of three eggs, the whites of two well beaten + up, two dessert-spoonsful of grated Parmesan, salt to taste, and chopped + truffles. Mix all this well together and mask the atelets with it; egg and + bread crumb them and fry in butter. When they are a good colour, serve + with fried parsley. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0124" id="link2H_4_0124"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's head, veal, sweetbread, truffles, mushrooms, + pistacchio nuts, eggs, herbs, spice, stock, bacon, ham. + </p> + <p> + Boil a half calf's head well, and when it is half cold, bone it and fill + it with a stuffing of veal, the calf's brains, sweetbread, truffles, + mushrooms, pistacchio nuts, the yolks of two eggs, herbs, and a little + spice. Then stitch it up and braize it in good stock, with some slices of + bacon, ham, and a bunch of herbs. Serve with brain sauce mixed with cream. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0125" id="link2H_4_0125"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's liver, bacon, suet, truffles, almonds, + olives, calf's brains, capers, spice, coriander seeds, herbs, ham, stock. + </p> + <p> + Boil half a calf's head, bone it and fill it with a stuffing made of four + ounces of calf's liver, well chopped up and pounded in a mortar; two + ounces of bacon, one ounce of suet, three truffles, six almonds, three + olives, six coriander seeds, six capers, the calf's brains, a pinch of + spice and a teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Roll up the head, tie it up and + put it into a stewpan with some bits of bacon, ham, and very good stock, + and stew it slowly. Serve with Neapolitan sauce (No.12), or with tomato + sauce piquante (No. 10). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0126" id="link2H_4_0126"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's head, calf's brains, cream, eggs, truffles, cinnamon, + stock, butter, Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Boil and bone half a calf's head and fill it with a stuffing made of the + calf's brains, a gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, two truffles cut + up, a little chopped ham, and a tiny pinch of cinnamon. Boil it in good + stock, and when it is sufficiently cooked take it out and mask it all over + with a mixture of butter, yolk of egg, and a tablespoonful of grated + Parmesan, then brown it in the oven and serve hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0127" id="link2H_4_0127"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's head, sweetbread, fowl's liver, anchovies, herbs, + capers, garlic, bacon, ham, Malmsey or Muscat. + </p> + <p> + Boil and bone half a calf's head, and fill it with a stuffing made of half + a pound of sweetbread, a fowl's liver, two anchovies, a teaspoonful of + chopped herbs, a few chopped capers, and the calf's brains. Roll the head + up, stitch it together and braize it in half a tumbler of Malmsey or + Australian Muscat (Burgoyne's), half a cup of very good white stock, some + bits of ham and bacon, and a clove of garlic with two cuts. Cook it gently + for four hours and serve it with its own sauce. Do not leave the garlic in + longer than ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0128" id="link2H_4_0128"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Calf's head, eggs, Parmesan, ham, pepper, butter, croutons. + </h3> + <p> + A good rechauffe' of calf's head may be made in the following manner: + After the head has been well boiled in good stock, cut it into slices and + mask these with a mixture of eggs well beaten up, grated Parmesan, pepper, + and chopped ham. Fry in butter, and garnish with fried parsley and fried + croutons. Serve with a sauce made of a quarter of a pint of good Bechamel + (No. 3) and a dessert-spoonful of New Century sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0129" id="link2H_4_0129"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calves' or pigs' feet, butter, leeks or small onions, + parsley, salt, pepper, stock, tomatoes, eggs, cheese, cinnamon. + </p> + <p> + Blanch and bone two or more calves' or pigs' feet and put them into a + stewpan with butter, leeks, or onions, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and + a little stock. Let them boil till the liquid is somewhat reduced, then + add good meat gravy and two tablespoonsful of tomato puree, and just + before taking the stewpan off the fire, add the yolks of two eggs beaten + up, a tablespoonful of grated cheese, and a tiny pinch of cinnamon. Mix + all well together and serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0130" id="link2H_4_0130"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 111. Bodini Marinati + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Veal forcemeat, truffles, sweetbread, mushrooms, herbs, + flour, pasta marinate (No. 17), tongue, butter. + </p> + <p> + Make a mixture of truffles, tongue, sweetbread, mushrooms, and herbs, all + chopped up, and add it to a forcemeat of veal, the proportions being + two-thirds veal forcemeat and the other ingredients one third. Mix this + well and form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg, flour + them and mask them all over with pasta marinate (No. 17). Fry them in + butter over a slow fire, so that the balls may be well cooked through, and + when they are the right colour dry them in a napkin and serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + These bodini may be made with various ingredients; they will be most + delicate with a forcemeat of fowl and bits of brain mixed with herbs, + truffle, cooked ham, or tongue. They are also excellent made with fish + (sole, mullet, turbot, &c.), either cooked or raw, and marinated in + lemon, salt, pepper, oil, nutmeg, and parsley. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0131" id="link2H_4_0131"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Sweetbread, bread crumbs, Parmesan, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, and then roll them in bread + crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper; wrap them up in + buttered grease-proof paper and grill them. When they are cooked, take off + the paper, and serve with a good sauce in a sauce-boat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0132" id="link2H_4_0132"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, herbs, salt, pepper, bread crumbs, + Parmesan, lemons, gravy, tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Blanch a pound of sweetbread cuttings, mix it with two ounces of melted + butter, chopped herbs, salt, and pepper, and put it into paper souffle + cases. Then strew over each some bread crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan, + put the cases in the oven, and when they are browned serve either with + good gravy and lemon juice or with tomato sauce (No. 9). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0133" id="link2H_4_0133"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sweetbread, butter, onions, salt, herbs, eggs, glaze, Risotto + (No. 190), truffles, quenelles of fowl, Espagnole sauce, white sauce. + </p> + <p> + Blanch as many sweetbreads as you require, cut them into quarters and + saute them in butter with a small onion cut up, salt, and a bunch of + herbs. Then pour over them two cups of white sauce and cook gently for + twenty minutes; take out the sweetbreads and put them in a stewpan. Reduce + the sauce, and add to it a mixture made of the yolks of four eggs, one and + a half ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of glaze; pass it through a + sieve, pour it over the sweetbreads, and keep them warm in a bain-marie. + Have ready a good Risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), and put it into a border + mould (but first decorate the inside of the mould with slices of truffle), + put it in a moderate oven, and when it is warm turn it out on a dish. + Place the sweetbreads on the risotto and fill in the centre with quenelles + of fowl and Espagnole sauce (No. 1). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0134" id="link2H_4_0134"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sweetbreads, larding, bacon, stock, a macedoine of + vegetables. + </p> + <p> + Blanch two sweetbreads, lard them, and cook them very slowly in good + stock. Skim the stock and reduce it to a glaze to cover the sweetbreads. + Then cut them into three or four pieces and arrange them round a dish, but + see that the larding is well glazed over. In the centre of the dish place + a piece of bread in the shape of a cup and fill this with a macedoine of + vegetables. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0135" id="link2H_4_0135"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread and Mushrooms) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sweetbread, fresh button mushrooms, flour, bread crumbs, + salt, pepper, parsley, butter, lemons. + </p> + <p> + Peel some button mushrooms and cut them in halves. Boil a sweetbread, and + cut it into pieces about the same size as the mushrooms, flour, egg, and + bread crumb them, and fry in butter; then serve with a garnish of fried + parsley. Hand cut lemons with this dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0136" id="link2H_4_0136"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 117. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf's Brains) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, butter, parsley, lemon. + </h3> + <p> + Boil half a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes then drain and pour + a little melted butter and the juice of half a lemon over the brain; add + some chopped parsley fried for one minute in butter, and serve as hot as + possible. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0137" id="link2H_4_0137"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Calf s brains, eggs, bread crumbs, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Scald a calf's brain and let it get cold. Wipe it on a cloth, and get it + as dry as possible, then cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut, + egg and bread crumb them, fry in butter, and strew a little salt over + them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0138" id="link2H_4_0138"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Calf's brains, eggs, flour, mushrooms, Velute sauce. + </h3> + <p> + Scald a calf's brain, and when cold cut it up and mask each piece with a + thick sauce made of well-reduced Velute (No. 2), mixed with chopped cooked + mushrooms; flour them over and dip them into the yolk of an egg, and fry + as quickly as possible. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0139" id="link2H_4_0139"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 120. Frittura of Liver and Brains + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's liver and brains (or lamb's or pig's fry), butter, + ham, flour, puff pastry. + </p> + <p> + Cut up half a pound of liver in small slices, flour and fry them in butter + or dripping, together with a calf's or pig's or sheep's brain, previously + scalded and also cut up. Serve with bits of fried ham and little + diamond-shaped pieces of puff pastry. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0140" id="link2H_4_0140"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, cream, eggs, spice, Parmesan, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes, let it get cold, cut it + up into little balls, and mask each piece with a mixture made of half a + gill of cream, the yolks of two eggs, a little spice, a tablespoonful of + grated Parmesan, and the whites of two eggs well beaten up. Fry the balls + in butter, and serve as hot as possible. You may mask and cook the calf's + brain without cutting it up, if you prefer it so. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0141" id="link2H_4_0141"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Calf's brains, stock, Bechamel sauce, eggs, butter, lemon, + forcemeat of fowl, flour. + </p> + <p> + Boil a calf's or sheep's brain in good stock, wipe it well, and cut it up. + Reduce a pint of Bechamel (No. 3), and add to it the yolks of three eggs, + an ounce of butter, and the juice of a lemon. When it boils throw in the + cut-up brain; let it cool, then take out the brain and form it into little + balls about the size of a small walnut. Make a forcemeat of fowl, and add + a dessert-spoonful of flour to it, and spread it out very thin on a + paste-board, and into this wrap the balls of brain, each separately. Dip + them into a pasta marinate (No. 17), and fry them a golden brown. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0142" id="link2H_4_0142"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Lamb's sweetbread, butter, onions, stock, Chablis, salt, + lemon, herbs, cocks' combs, fowls' livers. + </p> + <p> + Cut up equal quantities of lamb's sweetbreads, cocks' combs, fowls' livers + in pieces about the size of a filbert, flour and fry them slightly in + butter and a small bit of onion, add half a glass of Chablis, a cup of + good stock, and a bunch of herbs. Reduce the sauce, and thicken it with a + tablespoonful of butter and flour fried together. Make a border of Risotto + all'Italiana (No. 190), and put the sweetbread, &c., together with the + sauce in the centre. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0143" id="link2H_4_0143"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Lamb's fry, ham, garlic, larding bacon, spice, herbs, butter, + flour, stock. + </p> + <p> + The lamb's fry should be nearly all sweetbread, and very little liver. + Lard each piece with bacon and ham, and roll it in chopped herbs and a + pinch of pounded spice. Then dip it in flour and braize in good stock, to + which add three ounces of butter, some bits of bacon, ham, a bay leaf, + herbs, and a clove of garlic with two cuts. Cook until the fry is well + glazed over, and serve with Tarragon sauce (No. 8). Do not leave the + garlic in longer than ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0144" id="link2H_4_0144"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cocks' combs, calf's brains, sweetbread, stock, truffles, + mushrooms, Villeroy, eggs, bread crumbs. + </p> + <p> + Cook some big cocks' combs, bits of calf s brains, and sweetbread in good + stock, then drain them and marinate them slightly in lemon juice and + herbs. Prepare a Villeroy (No. 18), and add to it cuttings of sweetbread, + brains, truffles, mushrooms, &c. When it is cold, mask the cocks' + combs and other ingredients with it, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry + them a golden brown. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0145" id="link2H_4_0145"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Sweetbread, calf s brains, ox palate, flour, eggs, Chablis, + salt, herbs butter. + </p> + <p> + Make a thin paste with a tablespoonful of flour, the yolks of two eggs, + two Spoonsful of Chablis, and a little salt. Mix this up well, and if it + is too thick add a little water. Beat up the whites of the two eggs into a + snow. In the meantime blanch a sweetbread, half a calf's brain, and a few + bits of cooked ox palate; boil them all up with a bunch of herbs; cut them + into pieces about the size of a walnut, and dip them into the paste so + that each piece is well covered, then dip them into the beaten-up whites + of egg, and fry them very quickly in butter. This fry is generally served + with a garnish of French beans, which should not be cut up, but half + boiled, then dried, floured over and fried together with the other + ingredients. The ox palates should be boiled for at least six hours before + you use them in this dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0146" id="link2H_4_0146"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowls' or turkeys' livers, flour, butter, parsley, onions, + salt, pepper, stock, Chablis. + </p> + <p> + Cut the livers in half, flour them, and fry lightly in butter with chopped + parsley, very little chopped onion, salt and pepper, then add a quarter + pint of boiling stock and half a glass of Chablis, and cook until the + sauce is somewhat reduced. You can also cook the livers simply in good + meat gravy, but in this case they should not be floured. Serve with a + border of macaroni (No. 183), or Risotto (No. 190), or Polenta (No. 187). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0147" id="link2H_4_0147"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Fowls' livers, eggs, cheese, butter, cream, cayenne pepper. + </h3> + <p> + Braize two fowls' livers in butter, then pound them up, and mix with a + little cream, a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a dust of cayenne. + </p> + <p> + Spread this rather thickly over small squares of toast, and keep them hot + whilst you make a custard with half an ounce of butter, an egg well beaten + up, and a tablespoonful of cheese. Stir it over the fire till thick and + then spread it on the hot toast. Serve very hot. This makes a good + savoury. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0148" id="link2H_4_0148"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 129. Croutons alla Principesca + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Croutons, tongue, sweetbread, truffles, fowl or game, Velute + sauce, stock, eggs, butter. + </p> + <p> + Fry a bit of bread in butter till it is a light brown colour, then cut it + into heart-shaped pieces. Prepare a ragout with bits of tongue, + sweetbread, fowl or game, truffles, two or three spoonsful of well-reduced + Velute sauce (No. 2), and two or three of reduced gravy. Put a spoonful of + the ragout in each crouton, and over it a layer of fowl forcemeat half an + inch thick; trim the edges neatly, glaze them with the yolk of eggs beaten + up, and put them in a buttered fireproof dish in the oven for twenty + minutes. Then glaze them with reduced stock and serve hot. + </p> + <p> + For a maigre dish use fish for the ragout and forcemeat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0149" id="link2H_4_0149"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 130. Croutons alla Romana + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Bread, fowl forcemeat, tongue, truffles, herbs, cream, stock, + butter, flour, eggs. + </p> + <p> + Cut a bit of crumb of bread into round or square shapes, and on each put a + spoonful of fowl or rabbit forcemeat, a little chopped tongue, and a + slight flavouring of chopped herbs; cover with a slice of bread the same + shape as the underneath piece, put them in a buttered fireproof dish, and + moisten them well with cream, butter, and stock. Cook until all the liquor + is absorbed, but turn them over so that both sides may be well cooked, + then flour and dip them into beaten-up eggs; fry them a good colour and + serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + For a maigre dish use forcemeat of fish or lobster, and more cream instead + of stock. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0150" id="link2H_4_0150"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c. + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0151" id="link2H_4_0151"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, Bechamel, stock, semolina flour, potatoes, salt, eggs, + butter, smoked tongue or ham. + </p> + <p> + Prepare a puree of fowl or turkey and a small quantity of grated tongue or + ham, and whilst you are pounding the meat add some good gravy or stock. + Then make a Bechamel sauce (No. 3) and add two table-spoonsful of semolina + flour, a boiled potato and salt to taste, boil it up and add the puree of + fowl, then let it get nearly cold, add yolks of eggs and the white beaten + up into a snow. (For one pint of the puree use the yolks of three eggs.) + Pour the whole into a buttered souffle case, and half an hour before + serving put it in a moderate oven and serve hot. You can use game instead + of fowl, and serve in little souffle cases. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0152" id="link2H_4_0152"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, butter, vegetables, rice or macaroni, peppercorns, + stock, ham, tomatoes, bay leaves, onions, cloves, Liebig. + </p> + <p> + Roll up a fowl in buttered paper and put it in the oven in a fireproof + dish with all kinds of vegetables and a few peppercorns. Leave it there + for about two hours, then put the fowl and vegetables into two quarts of + good stock and let it simmer for one hour; serve on well-boiled rice or + macaroni and pour the following sauce over it. Sauce: Two pounds tomatoes, + one big cup of good stock, a quarter pound of chopped ham, three bay + leaves, one onion stuck with cloves, one teaspoonful of Liebig. Simmer an + hour and a half. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0153" id="link2H_4_0153"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 133. Pollo all'Oliva (Chicken) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, onions, celery, salt, parsley, carrots, butter, stock, + olives, tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Cut up half an onion, a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, a carrot, and + cook them all in a quarter pound of butter. Into this put a fowl cut up + and let it act brown all over, turn when necessary and then baste it with + boiling stock. Add four Spanish olives cut up and four others pounded in a + mortar, eight whole olives and three tablespoonsful of tomato puree + reduced, and when the fowl is well cooked pour the sauce over it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0154" id="link2H_4_0154"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, butter, flour, stock, bacon, ham, mushrooms, onions, + cloves, eggs, cream, lemons. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a fowl into quarters and put it into a saucepan with three ounces + of butter and a tablespoonful of flour Put it on the fire, and when it is + well browned add half a pint of stock, bits of bacon and ham, butter, + three mushrooms (previously boiled), an onion stuck with three cloves. + When this is cooked skim off the grease, pass the sauce through a sieve, + and add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream. + Lastly, add a squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce and pour it over the + fowl. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0155" id="link2H_4_0155"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: The same as No. 134 and tomatoes. + </h3> + <p> + Cook the fowl exactly as above, but add either a puree of tomatoes or + tomato sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0156" id="link2H_4_0156"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Fowl, butter, parsley, lemon, small onions, bread crumbs. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up a fowl and put it into a frying pan with two ounces of butter, one + onion cut up and a sprig of chopped parsley, salt and pepper; put it on + the fire and cook it, but turn the pieces several times: then take them + out and roll them whilst hot in bread crumbs, and fry them. Serve with cut + lemons. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0157" id="link2H_4_0157"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, butter, fat bacon, ham, mushrooms, truffles, herbs, + spice, gravy. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a fowl and cook it in a fricassee of butter, bacon, ham, herbs, + mushrooms, truffles, spice, and good gravy or stock. Serve in its own + gravy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0158" id="link2H_4_0158"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Fowl, bacon, ham, bay leaf, spice, garlic, Burgundy, + tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Braize a fowl with bits of fat bacon, ham, a bay leaf, a clove of garlic + with one cut in it, a pinch of spice, and a glass of Burgundy. Only leave + the garlic in for five minutes. When cooked serve with tomato sauce (No. + 9). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0159" id="link2H_4_0159"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Capon, veal forcemeat, fat bacon, stock, rice, truffles, + mushrooms, cocks' combs, kidneys or fowls' liver, supreme sauce, milk, + Chablis. + </p> + <p> + Stuff a fine capon with a good firm forcemeat made of veal, tongue, ham, + and chopped truffles; cover it with larding bacon; tie it up in buttered + paper, and cook it in very good white stock. In the meantime boil four + ounces of rice in milk till quite stiff, mix in some chopped truffles, and + make ten little timbales of it. Take out the capon when it is sufficiently + cooked and place it on a dish; garnish it with cooked mushrooms, cocks' + combs, kidneys, or fowls' livers, and pour a sauce supreme (No. 16) over + it; round the dish place the timbales of rice, and between each put a + whole truffle cooked in white wine. Serve a sauce supreme in a sauce bowl. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0160" id="link2H_4_0160"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Turkey, sausage meat, prunes, chestnuts, a pear, butter, + Marsala, salt, rosemary, bacon, carrot, onion, turnip, garlic. + </p> + <p> + Blanch for seven or eight minutes three prunes, quarter of a pound of + sausage meat, three tablespoonsful of chestnut puree, two small slices of + bacon, half a cooked pear, and saute them in butter; chop up the liver and + gizzard of the turkey, mix them with the other ingredients, and add half a + glass of Marsala; use this as a stuffing for the turkey, and first braize + it for three quarters of an hour with salt, butter, a blade of rosemary, + bits of fat bacon, a carrot, a turnip, an onion, three cloves, and a clove + of garlic with a cut; then roast it before a clear fire for about twenty + minutes; put it back into the sauce till it is ready to serve. Only leave + the garlic in ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0161" id="link2H_4_0161"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 141. Tacchinotto all'Istrione (Turkey Poult) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: A turkey poult, ham, mace, bay leaves, lemons, water, salt, + onions, parsley, celery, carrots, Chablis. + </p> + <p> + Truss a turkey poult, and cover it all over with slices of ham or bacon, + put two bay leaves and four slices of lemon on it, and sprinkle with a + small pinch of mace, then sew it up tight in a dishcloth, and stew it in + good stock, salt, an onion, parsley, a stick of celery, a carrot, and a + pint of Chablis; cook for an hour, take it out of the cloth, and pour a + good rich sauce over it. It is also good cold with aspic jelly. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0162" id="link2H_4_0162"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Pheasant, macaroni, gravy, butter, Parmesan, tomatoes. + </h3> + <p> + Lard a pheasant, roast it, and serve it on a layer of macaroni cooked with + good reduced gravy, two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of grated + Parmesan, and a puree of tomatoes. Serve with Neapolitan sauce (No. 12) in + a sauce bowl. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0163" id="link2H_4_0163"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Pheasant, butter, truffles, larding bacon, Madeira. + </h3> + <p> + Make a mixture of three tablespoonsful of chopped truffles, three ounces + of butter and a little salt, and with this stuff a pheasant. Then cover it + with slices of fat bacon and keep it in a cool place till next day. A few + hours before serving, roast the pheasant and baste it well with melted + butter and a wine-glass of Madeira or Marsala. Make a crouton of fried + bread the shape of your dish, and over this put a Layer of forcemeat of + fowl and a number of small fowl quenelles; cover them with buttered paper, + then put the dish in the oven for a few minutes so as to settle the + forcemeat. When the pheasant is cooked, place it on the crouton and + garnish it with slices of truffle which have been previously cooked in + Madeira, and serve with a Perigord sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0164" id="link2H_4_0164"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Wild duck, butter, fowls' livers, Marsala, gravy, turnips, + carrots, parsley, mushrooms. + </p> + <p> + Cut a wild duck into quarters and put it into a stewpan with two fowls' + livers cut up and fried in butter. When the pieces of duck are coloured on + both sides, pour off the butter, and in its place pour a glass of Marsala, + a cup of stock, and a cup of Espagnole sauce (No.1), and cook gently for + ten minutes. In the meantime shape and blanch six young turnips and as + many young carrots, put them into a stewpan, and on the top of them put + the pieces of wild duck, liver, &c. Pass the liquor through a sieve + and pour it over the wild duck, add a bunch of parsley and other herbs and + five little mushrooms cut up, and cook on a slow fire for half an hour. + Skim the sauce, pass it through a sieve and add a pinch of sugar. Put the + pieces of wild duck in an entree dish, add the vegetables, &c., pour + the sauce over and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0165" id="link2H_4_0165"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Partridges, cauliflower, bacon, sausage, fowls' livers, + carrots, onions herbs, stock, gravy, butter, Madeira. + </p> + <p> + Cut a cauliflower into quarters, blanch for a few minutes, drain, and put + it into a saucepan with some bits of bacon. Let it drain on paper till + dry, then arrange the bits in a circle in a deep stewpan, and in the + centre put a small bit of sausage, the livers of the partridges, a fowl's + liver cut up, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of herbs. Cover about + three-quarters high with good stock and gravy, put butter on the top and + boil gently for an hour; then take out the sausage, replace it by two or + three partridges, and simmer for three-quarters of an hour. In the + meantime cut a sausage in thin slices and line a mould with it. When the + birds are cooked, take them out, drain and cut them up, and fill the mould + with alternate layers of partridge and cauliflower, and steam for half an + hour. Five minutes before serving turn the mould over on a plate, but do + not take it off, so as to let all the grease drain off. Cut up the fowls' + and partridges' livers, make them into scallops and glaze them. Wipe off + all the grease round the mould; take it off, garnish the dish with the + scallops of liver and serve hot with an Espagnole sauce (No. 1) reduced, + and add a glass of Madeira or Marsala, and a glass of essence of game to + it. This is an excellent way of cooking an old partridge or pheasant. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0166" id="link2H_4_0166"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Snipe, ham, larding bacon, herbs, Marsala, croutons, + truffles, cocks' combs, mushrooms, sweetbread, tongue. + </p> + <p> + Truss fourteen snipe and cook them in a mirepoix made with plenty of ham, + fat bacon, herbs, and a wine glass of Marsala. When they are cooked pour + off the sauce, skim off the grease and reduce it. Take the two smallest + snipe and make a forcemeat of them by pounding them in a mortar with the + livers of all the snipe, then dilute this with reduced Espagnole sauce + (No. 1) and add it to the first sauce. Cut twelve croutons of bread just + large enough to hold a snipe each, and fry them in butter. Add some + chopped herbs and truffles to the forcemeat, spread it on the croutons, + and on each place a snipe and cover it with a bit of fat bacon and + buttered paper. Put them in a moderate oven for a few minutes, arrange + them on a dish, and pour some of their own sauce over them. Garnish the + spaces between the croutons with white cocks' combs, mushrooms, and + truffles. The truffles should be scooped out and filled with a little + stuffing of sweetbread, tongue, and truffles mixed with a little of the + sauce of the snipe. Serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce-boat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0167" id="link2H_4_0167"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Pigeons, butter, truffles, herbs, fowls' livers, sweetbread, + salt, flour, stock, Burgundy. + </p> + <p> + Prepare two pigeons and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, + two truffles cut up, two fowls' livers, half-pound of sweetbread cuttings + (boiled), a bunch of herbs and salt. Let them brown a little, then add a + dessert-spoonful of flour mixed with stock, and half a glass of Burgundy, + and stew gently for half an hour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0168" id="link2H_4_0168"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Pigeons, sweetbread, parsley, onions, carrots, salt, pepper, + bacon, stock, Chablis, fowls' livers, and gizzards. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a sweetbread, a fowl's liver and gizzard, an onion, a sprig of + parsley, and add salt and pepper. Put this stuffing into two pigeons, tie + larding bacon over them, and put them into a stewpan with a glass of + Chablis, a cup of stock, an onion, and a carrot. When cooked pass the + sauce through a sieve, skim it, add a little more sauce, and pour it over + the pigeons. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0169" id="link2H_4_0169"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Hare, butter, onions, garlic, marjoram, celery, ham, salt, + Chablis, stock, mushrooms, spice, tomatoes. + </p> + <p> + Put into a stewpan three ounces of butter, an onion cut up, a clove of + garlic with a cut across it, a sprig of marjoram, and a little cut-up ham. + Fry these slightly, put the hare cut up into the same stewpan, and let it + get brown. Then pour a glass of Chablis and a glass of stock over it; add + a little tomato sauce or a mashed-up tomato, a pinch of spice, and a few + mushrooms; take out the garlic and let the rest stew gently for an hour or + more. Keep the cover on the stewpan, but stir the stew occasionally. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0170" id="link2H_4_0170"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Hare, vinegar butter, onion, ham, stock salt, sugar, + chocolate, almonds, raisins. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a hare and wash the pieces in vinegar, then cook them in butter, + chopped onion, some bits of ham stock and a little salt. Half fill a + wine-glass with sugar and add vinegar until the glass is three-quarters + full mix the vinegar and sugar well together, and when the hare is browned + all over and nearly cooked, pour the vinegar over it and add a dessert + spoonful of grated chocolate a few shredded almonds and stoned raisins. + Mix all well together and cook for a few minutes more. This is a favourite + Roman dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0171" id="link2H_4_0171"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rabbit, flour butter, stock, Chablis, parsley onion, spice, + mushrooms. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces, flour them over, and fry them in butter + until they are coloured all over. Then pour a glass of Chablis over them, + add some chopped parsley, half an onion, three mushrooms, salt, and a cup + of good stock. Cover the stewpan and cook on a moderate fire for about + three-quarters of an hour. Should the stew act too dry, add a spoonful of + stock occasionally. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0172" id="link2H_4_0172"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rabbit, pig's fry, butter, salt, pepper, fennel, bay leaf, + onions. + </p> + <p> + Make a stuffing of pig's fry (previously cooked in butter), salt, pepper, + fennel, an onion, all chopped up, and a bay leaf. With this stuff a rabbit + well and braize it for half an hour, then roast it before a brisk fire and + baste it well with good gravy. If you like, put in a clove of garlic with + one cut whilst it is being braized, but only leave it in for five minutes. + Serve with ham sauce (Salsa di prosciutto, No. 7.) A fowl may be cooked in + this way. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0173" id="link2H_4_0173"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rabbit, butter, flour, celery, parsley, onion, carrot, + mushrooms, cloves, spices, Burgundy, stock, capers, anchovies. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a rabbit, wipe the pieces well on a dishcloth, flour them over and + put them into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter and fry for about ten + minutes. Then add half a stick of celery, parsley, an onion, half a + carrot, and three mushrooms, all cut up, three cloves, a pinch of spice + and salt, a glass of Burgundy, and the same quantity of stock; cover the + stewpan and cook for half an hour, then put the pieces of rabbit into + another stewpan and pass the liquor through a sieve; press it well with a + wooden spoon, so as to get as much through as possible, pour this over the + rabbit and add four capers and an anchovy in brine pounded in a mortar, + mix all well together, let it simmer for a few minutes, then serve hot + with a garnish of croutons fried in butter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0174" id="link2H_4_0174"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Vegetables + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0175" id="link2H_4_0175"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Asparagus, butter, nutmeg, salt, supreme sauce (No. 16) + gravy, lemon, Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Cut some asparagus into pieces about an inch long and cook them in boiling + water with salt, then drain and put them into a saute pan with one and a + half ounce of melted butter and sautez for a few minutes, but first add + salt, a pinch of nutmeg, and a dust of grated cheese. Pour a little + supreme sauce over them, and at the last add a little gravy, one ounce of + fresh butter, and a squeeze of lemon juice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0176" id="link2H_4_0176"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Brussels sprouts, butter, pepper, stock, Bechamel sauce, + Parmesan, croutons. + </p> + <p> + Take off the outside leaves of half a pound of Brussels sprouts, wash and + boil them in salted water. Let them get cool, drain, and put them in a + pie-dish with two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter pint of very good + stock, a little pepper, and a dust of grated Parmesan. When they are well + glazed over, pour off the sauce, season with three tablespoonsful of + boiling Bechamel sauce (No. 3), and serve with croutons fried in butter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0177" id="link2H_4_0177"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Beetroot, white sauce, Parmesan, Cheddar. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a beetroot till it is quite tender, peel it, cut into slices, put it + in a fireproof dish, and cover it with a thick white sauce. Strew a little + grated Parmesan and Cheddar over it. Put it in the oven for a few minutes, + and serve very hot in the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0178" id="link2H_4_0178"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Beans, stock, a bunch of herbs, Bechamel sauce. + </h3> + <p> + Boil one pound of broad beans in salt and water, skin and cook them in a + saucepan with a quarter pint of reduced stock and a hunch of herbs. Drain + them, take out the herbs, and season with two glasses of Bechamel sauce + (No. 3). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0179" id="link2H_4_0179"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cabbage or greens, anchovies, salt, butter, parsley, gravy, + Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Boil two cabbages in a good deal of water, and cut them into quarters. Fry + two anchovies slightly in butter and chopped parsley, add the cabbages, + and at the last three tablespoonsful of good gravy, two tablespoonsful of + grated Parmesan, salt and pepper, and when cooked, serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0180" id="link2H_4_0180"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 159. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese (Cauliflower) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, onions, parsley, lemon, Espagnole sauce. + </p> + <p> + Blanch a cauliflower and boil it, but not too much. Cut up a small onion, + fry it slightly in butter and chopped parsley, and when it is well + coloured, add the cauliflower and finish cooking it, then take it out, put + it in a dish, pour a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) over it, and add a + squeeze of lemon juice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0181" id="link2H_4_0181"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 160. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cauliflower or broccoli, gravy, lemon, salt, eggs, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Break up a broccoli or cauliflower into little bunches, blanch them, and + put them on the fire in a saucepan with good gravy for a few minutes, then + marinate them with lemon juice and salt, let them get cold, egg them over, + and fry in butter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0182" id="link2H_4_0182"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, Parmesan, Cheddar, Espagnole, stock. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a cauliflower in salted water, then sautez it in butter, but be + careful not to cook it too much. Take it off the fire and strew grated + Parmesan and Cheddar over it then put in a fireproof dish and add a good + spoonful of stock and one of Espagnole (No. 1), and put it in the oven for + ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0183" id="link2H_4_0183"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cauliflower, butter, stock, forcemeat of fowl, tongue, + truffles, mushrooms, parsley, Espagnole, eggs. + </p> + <p> + Break up a cauliflower into separate little bunches, blanch them, and put + them in butter, and a quarter pint of reduced stock. Make a forcemeat of + fowl, add bits of tongue, truffles, mushrooms, and parsley, all cut up + small and mixed with butter. With this mask the pieces of cauliflower, egg + and breadcrumb them, fry like croquettes, and serve with a good Espagnole + sauce (No. 1). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0184" id="link2H_4_0184"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 163. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Celery, stock, ham, salt, pepper, Cheddar, Parmesan, butter, + gravy. + </p> + <p> + Cut all the green off a head of celery, trim the rest. Cut it into pieces + about four inches long, blanch and braize them in good stock, ham, salt, + and pepper. When cooked, drain and arrange them on a dish, sprinkle with + grated Parmesan and Cheddar, and add one and a half ounce of butter, then + put them in the oven till they have taken a good colour, pour a little + good gravy over them and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0185" id="link2H_4_0185"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 164. Sedani fritti all'Italiana (Celery) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Same as No. 163, eggs, bread crumbs, tomatoes. + </h3> + <p> + Prepare a head of celery as above, and cut it up into equal pieces. Blanch + and braize as above, and when cold egg and breadcrumb and sautez in + butter. Serve with tomato sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0186" id="link2H_4_0186"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cucumber, butter, cheese, gravy, salt, cayenne. + </h3> + <p> + Cut a cucumber into slices about half an inch thick, boil for five minutes + in salted water, drain in a sieve, and fry slightly in melted butter, then + strew a little grated Parmesan over it, and add a good thick gravy, put it + into the oven for ten minutes to brown, and serve as hot as possible. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0187" id="link2H_4_0187"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cucumber, cream, salt, Bechamel sauce, butter, Parmesan, + cayenne pepper. + </p> + <p> + Cook a cucumber as in No. 165, braize it for five minutes, add to it a + good rich Bechamel (No. 3), mixed with cream and grated Parmesan Spread + this well over the cucumber, and put it into the oven for ten minutes + keeping the rounds of cucumber separate, so as to arrange them in a circle + on a very hot dish. Care should be taken not to cook the cucumber too + long, or it will break in pieces and spoil the look of the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0188" id="link2H_4_0188"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Carrots, stock, butter, sausage, pepper. + </h3> + <p> + Boil some young carrots in stock, slice them up, and put them in a stewpan + with a sausage cut up; cook for quarter of an hour on a slow fire, then + stir up the fire, and when the carrots and sausage are a good colour add a + good Espagnole sauce (No. 1), and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0189" id="link2H_4_0189"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Young carrots, peas, cream, salt. + </h3> + <p> + Half cook equal quantities of peas and young carrots (the carrots should + be cut in dice, and will require a little longer cooking), then put them + together in a stewpan with three or four tablespoonsful of cream, and cook + till quite tender. Serve hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0190" id="link2H_4_0190"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 169. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cabbage, butter, salt, leeks or shallots, sardines, cheese. + </h3> + <p> + Any vegetable may be cooked in the following simple manner: Boil them + well, then slightly fry a little bit of leek or shallot and a sardine in + butter; drain the vegetables, put them in the butter, and cook gently so + that they may absorb all the flavour, and at the last add a dust of grated + cheese and a tiny pinch of spice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0191" id="link2H_4_0191"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Lettuce, Parmesan, bacon, stock, butter, croutons of bread, + gravy. + </p> + <p> + Take off the outside leaves of a lettuce, blanch and drain them well. Put + on each leaf a mixture of grated Parmesan, salt, little bits of chopped + bacon or ham, add a little good stock, cover over with buttered paper, and + cook in a hot oven for five minutes. Then drain off the stock and roll up + each leaf with the bacon, &c., put them on croutons of fried bread and + pour some good thick gravy over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0192" id="link2H_4_0192"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 171 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Lettuce, forcemeat of fowl or veal, ham, Espagnole sauce. + </h3> + <p> + Prepare a lettuce as above, and spread on each leaf a spoonful of + forcemeat of fowl or veal, add a little cooked ham chopped up, roll up the + leaves, and cook as above. Drain them on a cloth, arrange them neatly on a + dish, and pour some good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0193" id="link2H_4_0193"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Mushrooms, bread, stock, garlic, parsley, salt, Parmesan, + butter, eggs, cream. + </p> + <p> + Choose a dozen good fresh mushrooms, take off the stalks and put the tops + into a saucepan with a little butter. See that they lie bottom upwards. + Then cut up and mix together half the stalks of the mushrooms, a little + bread crumb soaked in gravy, the merest scrap of garlic and a little + chopped parsley. Put this into a separate saucepan and add to it two eggs, + half a gill of cream, salt, and two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan. Mix + well so as to get a smooth paste and fill in the cavities of the mushrooms + with it. Then add a little more butter, strew some bread crumbs over each + mushroom, and cook in the oven for ten to fifteen minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0194" id="link2H_4_0194"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cauliflower, carrots, celery, spinach, butter, cream, pepper, + Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Boil some carrots, cauliflower, spinach, and celery (all cut up) in water. + Then put them in layers in a buttered china mould, and between each layer + add a little cream, pepper, and a little grated Parmesan and Cheddar. Fill + the mould in this manner, and put it in the oven for half an hour, so that + the vegetables may cook without adhering to the mould. Turn out and serve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0195" id="link2H_4_0195"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, Parmesan, white stock, cream, pepper, salt. + </p> + <p> + Boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water for a quarter of an hour, peel + and cut them into slices about the size of a penny, then arrange them in + layers in a very deep fireproof dish (with a lid), and on each layer pour + a little melted butter, a little good white stock and a dust of grated + Parmesan. Reduce a pint and a half of cream to half its quantity, add a + little pepper, and pour it over the potatoes. Put the dish in the oven for + twenty minutes. Serve as hot as possible. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0196" id="link2H_4_0196"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Potatoes, white stock, salt, butter, peas, asparagus, + sprouts, beans, &c. + </p> + <p> + Choose some big sound potatoes, cut them in half and scoop out a little of + the centre so as to form a cavity, blanch them in salted water and cook + for a quarter of an hour in good white stock and a little butter. Then + fill in the cavities with a macedoine of cooked vegetables and add a + little cream to each. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0197" id="link2H_4_0197"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Potatoes, butter, salt, tomatoes, lemon, stock. + </h3> + <p> + Peel three or four raw potatoes, cut them in slices about the size of a + five-shilling piece, then put them into a stewpan with two ounces of + melted butter, and cook them gently until they are a good colour, add + salt, drain off the butter, then glaze them by adding half a glass of good + stock. Arrange them on a dish, pour some good tomato sauce over them, and + add a little butter and a squeeze of lemon juice. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0198" id="link2H_4_0198"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Spinach, butter, Velute sauce, salt, pepper, flour, stock. + </h3> + <p> + Wash three pounds of spinach at least six times, boil it in a pint of + water, then mince it up very fine, pass it through a hair-sieve, and put + it in a saucepan with one and a half ounces of butter, add a cupful of + reduced Velute sauce (No. 2) with cream, salt, and pepper, add a + dessert-spoonful of flour and butter mixed, and boil until the spinach is + firm enough to make into a shape, garnish with hardboiled eggs cut into + quarters, and pour a good Espagnole sauce (No. 1) round the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0199" id="link2H_4_0199"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: New potatoes, oil, white vinegar, onions, parsley, tarragon, + chervil, celery, cream, salt, pepper, tarragon vinegar, watercress, + cucumber, truffles. + </p> + <p> + Steam as many new potatoes as you require until they are well cooked, let + them get cold, cut them into slices and pour three teaspoonsful of salad + oil and one of white vinegar over them. Then rub a salad bowl with onion, + put in a layer of the potato slices, and sprinkle with chopped parsley, + tarragon, chervil, and celery, then another layer of potatoes until you + have used all the potatoes; cover them with whipped cream seasoned with + salt, pepper, and a little tarragon vinegar, and garnish the top with + watercress, a few thin slices of truffle cooked in white wine, and some + slices of cooked cucumber. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0200" id="link2H_4_0200"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Peas, bean onions, potatoes, tarragon, chives, parsley, + tomatoes, anchovies, oil, vinegar, ham. + </p> + <p> + Mix a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a + teaspoonful of tarragon and chopped chives with half a gill of oil and + half a gill of vinegar. Put this into a salad bowl with all sorts of + cooked vegetables: peas, haricot beans, small onions, and potatoes cut up, + and mix them w ell but gently, so as not to break the vegetables. Then add + two or three anchovies in oil, and on the top place three or four ripe + tomatoes cut in slices. A little cooked smoked ham cut in dice added to + this salad is a great improvement. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0201" id="link2H_4_0201"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Tomatoes, mayonnaise, shallot, horseradish, gherkin, + anchovies, fish, cucumber, lettuce, chervil, tarragon, eggs. + </p> + <p> + Mix the following ingredients: two anchovies in oil boned and minced, a + gill of mayonnaise sauce, a little grated horseradish, very little chopped + shallot, a little cold salmon or trout, and a small gherkin chopped. With + this mixture stuff some ripe tomatoes. Then make a good salad of endive or + lettuce, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, season it with + oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper (the proportions should be three of oil to + one of vinegar), put a layer of slices of cucumber in the salad, place the + tomatoes on the top of these, and decorate them with hard-boiled eggs + passed through a wire sieve. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0202" id="link2H_4_0202"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Truffles, fowl forcemeat, champagne. + </h3> + <p> + Allow one truffle for each person, scoop out the inside, chop it up fine + and mix with a good forcemeat of fowl. With this fill up the truffles, + place a thin layer of truffle on the top of each, and cook them in + champagne in a stewpan for about half an hour. Then take them out, make a + rich sauce, to which add the champagne you have used and some of the + chopped truffle, put the truffles in this sauce and keep hot for ten + minutes. Serve in paper souffle cases. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0203" id="link2H_4_0203"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian Pastes{*} + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Italian pastes of the best quality can be obtained at + Cosenza's, Wigmore Street, NW. For the following dishes, + tagliarelle and spaghetti are recommended. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0204" id="link2H_4_0204"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 182. Macaroni with Tomatoes + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Macaroni, tomatoes, butter, onion, basil, pepper, salt. + </h3> + <p> + Fry half an onion slightly in butter, and as soon as it is coloured add a + puree of two big cooked tomatoes. Then boil quarter of a pound of macaroni + separately, drain it and put it in a deep fireproof dish, add the tomato + puree and three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and + cook gently for a quarter of an hour before serving. This dish may be made + with vermicelli, spaghetti, or any other Italian paste. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0205" id="link2H_4_0205"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 183. Macaroni alla Casalinga + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Macaroni, butter, stock, cheese, water, salt, nutmeg. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up a quarter pound of macaroni in small pieces and put it in boiling + salted water. When sufficiently cooked, drain and put it into a saucepan + with two ounces of butter, add good gravy or stock, three tablespoonsful + of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Stir + over a brisk fire, and serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0206" id="link2H_4_0206"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 184. Macaroni al Sughillo + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Macaroni, stock, tomatoes, sausage, cheese. + </h3> + <p> + Half cook four ounces of macaroni, drain it and put it in layers in a + fireproof dish, and gradually add good beef gravy, four tablespoonsful of + tomato puree, and thin slices of sausage. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan + and Cheddar, and cook for about twenty minutes. Before serving pass the + salamander over the top to brown the macaroni. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0207" id="link2H_4_0207"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 185. Macaroni alla Livornese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Macaroni, mushrooms, tomatoes, Parmesan, butter, pepper, + salt, milk. + </p> + <p> + Boil about four ounces of macaroni, and stew four or five mushrooms in + milk with pepper and salt. Put a layer of the macaroni in a buttered + fireproof dish, then a layer of tomato puree, then a layer of the + mushrooms and another layer of macaroni. Dust it all over with grated + Parmesan and Cheddar, put it in the oven for half an hour, and serve very + hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0208" id="link2H_4_0208"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 186. Tagliarelle and Lobster + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Tagliarelle, lobster, cheese, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Boil half a pound of tagliarelle, and cut up a quarter of a pound of + lobster. Butter a fireproof dish, and strew it well with grated Parmesan + and Cheddar mixed, then put in the tagliarelle and lobster in layers, and + between each layer add a little butter. Strew grated cheese over the top, + put it in the oven for twenty minutes, and brown the top with a + salamander. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0209" id="link2H_4_0209"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 187. Polenta + </h2> + <p> + Polenta is made of ground Indian-corn, and may be used either as a + separate dish or as a garnish for roast meat, pigeons, fowl, &c. It is + made like porridge; gradually drop the meal with one hand into boiling + stock or water, and stir continually with a wooden spoon with the other + hand. In about a quarter of an hour it will be quite thick and smooth, + then add a little butter and grated Parmesan, and one egg beaten up. Let + it get cold, then put it in layers in a baking-dish, add a little butter + to each layer, sprinkle with plenty of Parmesan, and bake it for about an + hour in a slow oven. Serve hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0210" id="link2H_4_0210"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 188. Polenta Pasticciata + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Polenta, butter, cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes. + </h3> + <p> + Prepare a good polenta as above, put it in layers in a fireproof dish, and + add by degrees one and a half ounces of melted butter, two cooked + mushrooms cut up, and two tablespoonsful of grated cheese. (If you like, + you may add a good-sized tomato mashed up.) Put the dish in the oven, and + before serving brown it over with salamander. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0211" id="link2H_4_0211"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 189. Battuffoli + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Polenta, onion, butter, salt, stock, Parmesan. + </h3> + <p> + Make a somewhat firm polenta (No. 187) with half a pound of ground maize + and a pint and a half of salted water, add a small onion cut up and fried + in butter, and stir the polenta until it is sufficiently cooked. Then take + it off the fire and arrange it by spoonsful in a large fireproof dish, and + give each spoonful the shape and size of an egg. Place them one against + the other, and when the first layer is done, pour over it some very good + gravy or stock, and plenty of grated Parmesan. Arrange it thus layer by + layer. Put it into the oven for twenty minutes, and serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0212" id="link2H_4_0212"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 190. Risotto all'Italiana + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, an onion, butter, stock, tomatoes, cheese. + </h3> + <p> + Fry a small onion slightly in butter, then add half a pint of very good + stock. Boil four ounces of rice, but do not let it get pulpy, add it to + the above with three medium-sized tomatoes in a puree. Mix it all up well, + add more stock, and two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar + mixed, and serve hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0213" id="link2H_4_0213"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 191. Risotto alla Genovese + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rice, beef or veal, onions, parsley, butter, stock, Parmesan, + sweetbread or sheep's brains. + </p> + <p> + Cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in butter with some chopped + parsley, add to this a little veal, also chopped up, and a little suet. + Cook for ten minutes and then add two ounces of rice to it. Mix all with a + wooden spoon, and after a few minutes begin to add boiling stock + gradually; stir with the spoon, so that the rice whilst cooking may absorb + the stock; when it is half cooked add a few spoonsful of good gravy and a + sweetbread or sheep's brains (previously scalded and cut up in pieces), + and, if you like, a little powdered saffron dissolved in a spoonful of + stock and three tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed. Stir + well until the rice is quite cooked, but take care not to get it into a + pulp. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0214" id="link2H_4_0214"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 192. Risotto alla Spagnuola + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rice, pork, ham, onions, tomatoes, butter, stock, vegetables, + Parmesan. + </p> + <p> + Put a small bit of onion and an ounce of butter into a saucepan, add half + a pound of tomatoes cut up and fry for a few minutes. Then put in some + bits of loin of pork cut into dice and some bits of lean ham. After a time + add four ounces of rice and good stock, and as soon as it begins to boil + put on the cover and put the saucepan on a moderate fire. When the rice is + half cooked add any sort of vegetable, by preference peas, asparagus cut + up, beans, and cucumber cut up, cook for another quarter of an hour, and + serve with grated Parmesan and Cheddar mixed and good gravy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0215" id="link2H_4_0215"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 193. Risotto alla Capuccina + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Risotto (No. 190) eggs, truffles, smoked tongue, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Make a good risotto, and when cooked put it into a fireproof dish. When + cold cut into shapes with a dariole mould and fry for a few minutes in + butter, then turn the darioles out, scoop out a little of each and fill it + with eggs beaten up, cover each with a slice of truffle and garnish with a + little chopped tongue. Put them in the oven for ten minutes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0216" id="link2H_4_0216"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 194. Risotto alla Parigina + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Risotto (No. 190), game, sauce, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Make a good risotto, and when cooked pour it into a fireproof dish, let it + get cold, and then cut it out with a dariole mould, or else form it into + little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg. Fry these in butter and + serve with a rich game sauce poured over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0217" id="link2H_4_0217"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 195. Ravioli + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Flour, eggs, butter, salt, forcemeat, Parmesan, gravy or + stock. + </p> + <p> + Make a paste with a quarter pound of flour, the yolk of two eggs, a little + salt and two ounces of butter. Knead this into a firm smooth paste and + wrap it up in a damp cloth for half an hour, then roll it out as thin as + possible, moisten it with a paste-brush dipped in water, and cut it into + circular pieces about three inches in diameter. On each piece put about a + teaspoonful of forcemeat of fowl, game, or fish mixed with a little grated + Parmesan and the yolks of one or two eggs. Fold the paste over the + forcemeat and pinch the edges together, so as to give them the shape of + little puffs; let them dry in the larder, then blanch by boiling them in + stock for quarter of an hour and drain them in a napkin. Butter a + fireproof dish, put in a layer of the ravioli, powder them over with + grated Parmesan, then another layer of ravioli and more Parmesan. Then add + enough very good gravy to cover them, put the dish in the oven for about + twenty-five minutes, and serve in the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0218" id="link2H_4_0218"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Beetroot, eggs, Parmesan, milk or cream, nutmeg, spices, + salt, flour, gravy. + </p> + <p> + Wash a beetroot and boil it, and when it is sufficiently cooked throw it + into cold water for a few minutes, then drain it, chop it up and add to it + four eggs, one ounce of grated Parmesan, one ounce of grated Cheddar, two + and a half ounces of boiled cream or milk, a small pinch of nutmeg and a + little salt. Mix all well together into a smooth firm paste, then roll + into balls about the size of a walnut, flour them over well, let them dry + for half an hour, then drop them very carefully one by one into boiling + stock and when they float on the top take them out with a perforated + ladle, put them in a deep dish, dust them over with Parmesan and pour good + meat or game gravy over them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0219" id="link2H_4_0219"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 197. Gnocchi alla Romana + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Semolina, butter, Parmesan, eggs, nutmeg, milk, cream. + </h3> + <p> + Boil half a pint of milk in a saucepan, then add two ounces of butter, + four ounces of semolina, two tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, the yolks + of three eggs, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg. Mix all well together, then let + it cool, and spread out the paste so that it is about the thickness of a + finger. Put a little butter and grated Parmesan and two tablespoonsful of + cream in a fireproof dish, cut out the semolina paste with a small dariole + mould and put it in the dish. Dust a little more Parmesan over it, put it + in the oven for five minutes and serve in the dish. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0220" id="link2H_4_0220"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Potatoes, flour, salt, Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, butter, + milk, eggs. + </p> + <p> + Boil two or three big potatoes, and pass them through a hair sieve, mix in + two tablespoonsful of flour, an egg beaten up, and enough milk to form a + rather firm paste; stir until it is quite smooth. Roll it into the shape + of a German sausage, cut it into rounds about three quarters of an inch + thick, and put it into the larder to dry for about half an hour. Then drop + the gnocchi one by one into boiling salted water and boil for ten minutes. + Take them out with a slice, and put them in a well-buttered fireproof + dish, add butter between each layer, and strew plenty of grated Parmesan + and Cheddar over them. Put them in the oven for ten minutes, brown the top + with a salamander, and serve very hot. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0221" id="link2H_4_0221"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Rice, milk, salt, butter, cinnamon, eggs, Parmesan. + </h3> + <p> + Boil quarter of a pound of rice in milk until it is quite soft and pulpy, + drain off the milk and add to the rice an ounce of butter, two + tablespoonsful of grated Parmesan, and a pinch of cinnamon, and when it + has got rather cold, the yolks of four eggs beaten up. Mix all well + together, and with this make a pancake with butter in a frying pan. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0222" id="link2H_4_0222"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0223" id="link2H_4_0223"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 200. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, butter, cream, truffles, Velute sauce, croutons. + </h3> + <p> + Beat up six eggs, pass them through a sieve, and put them into a saucepan + with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonsful of cream. Put the + saucepan in a bain-marie, and stir so that the eggs may not adhere. Sautez + some slices of truffle in butter, cover them with Velute sauce (No. 2) and + a glass of Marsala, and add them to the eggs. Serve very hot with fried + and glazed croutons. Instead of truffles you can use asparagus tips, peas, + or cooked ham. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0224" id="link2H_4_0224"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, salt, tomatoes, onion, parsley, butter, pepper. + </h3> + <p> + Cut up three or four tomatoes, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of + butter the size of a walnut and a clove of garlic with a cut in it. Put + the lid on the stewpan and cook till quite soft, then take out the garlic, + strain the tomatoes through a fine strainer into a bain-marie, beat up two + eggs and add them to the tomatoes, and stir till quite thick, then put in + two tablespoonsful of grated cheese, and serve on toast. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0225" id="link2H_4_0225"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cheese, parsley, + mushrooms, Bechamel and Espagnole sauce, stock. + </p> + <p> + Boil as many eggs as you want hard, and cut them in half lengthwise; take + out the yolks and mix them with some fresh butter, salt, pepper, very + little nutmeg, grated cheese, a little chopped parsley, and cooked + mushrooms also chopped. Then mix two tablespoonsful of good Bechamel sauce + (No. 3) with the raw yolk of one or two eggs and add it to the rest. Put + all in a saucepan with an ounce of butter and good stock, then fill up the + white halves with the mixture, giving them a good shape; heat them in a + bain-marie, and serve with a very good clear Espagnole sauce (No. 1). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0226" id="link2H_4_0226"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, butter, Parmesan, cream, flour, salt, pepper, curds. + </h3> + <p> + Boil as many eggs as you require hard, then cut them in half and take out + the yolks and pound them in a mortar with equal quantities of butter and + curds, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, salt and pepper. Put this in a + saucepan and add the yolks of eight eggs and the white of one (this is for + twelve people), mix all well together and reduce a little. With this + mixture fill the hard whites of the eggs and spread the rest of the sauce + on the bottom of the dish, and on this place the whites. Then in another + saucepan mix half a gill of cream and an ounce of butter, a + dessert-spoonful of flour, salt, and pepper; let this boil for a minute, + and then glaze over the eggs in the dish with it, and on the top of each + egg put a little bit of butter, and over all a powdering of grated cheese. + Put this in the oven, pass the salamander over the top, and when the + cheese is coloured serve at once. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0227" id="link2H_4_0227"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, butter, mushrooms, onions, flour, white wine, fish or + meat stock, salt, pepper, croutons of bread. + </p> + <p> + Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter, three large fresh mushrooms cut + into slices, and an onion cut up, fry them slightly, and when the onion + begins to colour add a spoonful of flour, a quarter of a glass of Chablis, + salt and pepper, and occasionally add a spoonful of either fish or meat + stock. Let this simmer for half an hour, so as to reduce it to a thick + sauce. Then boil as many eggs as you want hard; take out the yolks, but + keep them whole. Cut up the whites into slices, and add them to the above + sauce, pour the sauce into a dish, and on the top of it place the whole + yolks of egg, each on a crouton of bread. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0228" id="link2H_4_0228"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Mushrooms, butter, eggs, bread crumbs, Parmesan, marjoram, + garlic. + </p> + <p> + Clean four or five mushrooms, cut them up, and put them into a frying-pan + with one and a half ounces of butter, a clove of garlic with two cuts in + it, and a little salt; fry them lightly till the mushrooms are nearly + cooked, and then take out the garlic. In the meantime beat up separately + the yolks and the whites of two or three eggs, add a little crumb of bread + soaked in water, a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, and two leaves of + marjoram; go on beating all up until the crumb of bread has become + entirely absorbed by the eggs, then pour this mixture into the frying-pan + with the mushrooms, mix all well together and make an omelette in the + usual way. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0229" id="link2H_4_0229"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 206. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, tomatoes, butter, marjoram, parsley, spice. + </h3> + <p> + Peel two tomatoes and take out the seeds; then mix them with an ounce of + butter, chopped marjoram, parsley, and a tiny pinch of spice. Add three + eggs beaten up (the yolks and whites separately), and make an omelette. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0230" id="link2H_4_0230"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, asparagus, butter, ham, herbs, cheese. + </h3> + <p> + Blanch a dozen heads of asparagus and cook them slightly, then cut them up + and mix with two ounces of butter, bits of cut-up ham, herbs, and a + tablespoonful of grated Parmesan. Add them to three beaten-up eggs and + make an omelette. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0231" id="link2H_4_0231"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 208. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, onions, sorrel, mint, parsley, asparagus, marjoram, + salt, pepper, butter. + </p> + <p> + Chop a little sorrel, a small bit of onion, mint, parsley, marjoram, and + fry in two ounces of butter, add some cut-up asparagus, salt, and pepper. + Then add three eggs beaten up and a little grated cheese, and make your + omelette. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0232" id="link2H_4_0232"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, Parmesan, pepper, parsley. + </h3> + <p> + Beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth and the yolks separately with + a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, chopped parsley, and a little pepper. + Then mix them and make a light omelette. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0233" id="link2H_4_0233"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Eggs, ham, Parmesan, mint, pepper, clotted cream. + </h3> + <p> + Beat up three eggs and add to them two tablespoonsful of clotted cream, + one tablespoonful of chopped ham, one of grated Parmesan, chopped mint and + a little pepper, and make the omelette in the usual way. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0234" id="link2H_4_0234"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Sweets and Cakes + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0235" id="link2H_4_0235"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 211. Bodino of Semolina + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Semolina, milk, eggs, castor sugar, lemon, sultanas, rum, + butter, cream, or Zabajone (No. 222). + </p> + <p> + Boil one and a half pints of milk with four ounces of castor sugar, and + gradually add five ounces of semolina, boil for a quarter of an hour more + and stir continually with a wooden spoon, then take the saucepan off the + fire, and when it is cooled a little, add the yolks of six and the whites + of two eggs well beaten up, a little grated lemon peel, three-quarters of + an ounce of sultanas and two small glasses of rum. Mix well, so as to get + it very smooth, pour it into a buttered mould and serve either hot or + cold. If cold, put whipped cream flavoured with stick vanilla round the + dish; if hot, a Zabajone (No. 222). + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0236" id="link2H_4_0236"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Coffee, cream, eggs, sugar, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Bruise five ounces of freshly roasted Mocha coffee, and add it to + three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream; cover the saucepan, let it + simmer for twenty minutes, then pass through a bit of fine muslin. In the + meantime mix the yolks of ten eggs and two whole eggs with eight ounces of + castor sugar and a glass of cream; add the coffee cream to this and pass + the whole through a fine sieve into a buttered mould. Steam in a + bain-marie for rather more than an hour, but do not let the water boil; + then put the cream on ice for about an hour, and before serving turn it + out on a dish and pour some cream flavoured with stick vanilla round it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0237" id="link2H_4_0237"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Cream, castor sugar, Maraschino, strawberries or strawberry + jam. + </p> + <p> + Put a pint of cream on ice, and after two hours whip it up. Pass three + tablespoonsful of strawberry jam through a sieve and add two + tablespoonsful of Maraschino; mix this with the cream and build it up into + a pyramid. Garnish with meringue biscuits and serve quickly. You may use + fresh strawberries when in season, but then add castor sugar to taste. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0238" id="link2H_4_0238"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Almonds, sugar, lemon juice, butter, castor sugar, + pistachios, preserved fruits. + </p> + <p> + Blanch half a pound of almonds, cut them into shreds and dry them in a + slow oven until they are a light brown colour; then put a quarter pound of + lump sugar into a saucepan and caramel it lightly; stir well with a wooden + spoon. When the sugar is dissolved, throw the hot almonds into it and also + a little lemon juice. Take the saucepan off the fire and mix the almonds + with the sugar, pour it into a buttered mould and press it against the + sides of the mould with a lemon, but remember that the casing of sugar + must be very thin. (You may, if you like, spread out the mixture on a flat + dish and line the mould with your hands, but the sugar must be kept hot.) + Then take it out of the mould and decorate it with castor sugar, + pistacchio nuts, and preserved fruits. Fill this case with whipped cream + and preserved fruits or fresh strawberries. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0239" id="link2H_4_0239"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Cream, eggs, caramel sugar, vanilla or lemon flavouring. + </h3> + <p> + Boil a pint of cream and give it any flavour you like. When cold, add the + yolks of eight eggs and two tablespoonsful of castor sugar, mix well and + pass it through a sieve; then burn some sugar to a caramel, line a smooth + mould with it and pour the cream into it. Boil in a bain-marie for an hour + and serve hot or cold. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0240" id="link2H_4_0240"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 216. Cremona Cake + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Ground rice, ground maize, sugar, one orange, eggs, salt, + cream, Maraschino, almonds, preserved cherries. + </p> + <p> + Weigh three eggs, and take equal quantities of castor sugar, butter, + ground rice and maize (the last two together); make a light paste with + them, but only use one whole egg and the yolks of the two others, add the + scraped peel of an orange and a pinch of salt. Roll this paste out to the + thickness of a five-shilling piece, colour it with the yolk of an egg and + bake it in a cake tin in a hot oven until it is a good colour, then take + it out and cut it into four equal circular pieces. Have ready some + well-whipped cream and flavour it with Maraschino, put a thick layer of + this on one of the rounds of pastry, then cover it with: the next round, + on which also put a layer of cream, and so on until you come to the last + round, which forms the top of the cake. Then split some almonds and colour + them in the oven, cover the top of the cake with icing sugar flavoured + with orange, and decorate the top with the almonds and preserved cherries. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0241" id="link2H_4_0241"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 217. Cake alla Tolentina + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Sponge-cake, jam, brandy or Maraschino, cream, pine-apple. + </h3> + <p> + Make a medium-sized sponge-cake; when cold cut off the top and scoop out + all the middle and leave only the brown case; cover the outside with a + good coating of jam or red currant jelly, and decorate it with some of the + white of the cake cut into fancy shapes. Soak the rest of the crumb in + brandy or Maraschino and mix it with quarter of a pint of whipped cream + and bits of pineapple cut into small dice; fill the cake with this; pile + it up high in the centre and decorate the top with the brown top cut into + fancy shapes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0242" id="link2H_4_0242"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 218. Riso all'Imperatrice + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Rice, sugar, milk, ice, preserved fruits, blanc-mange, + Maraschino, cream. + </p> + <p> + Boil two dessert-spoonsful of rice and one of sugar in milk. When + sufficiently boiled, drain the rice and let it get cold. In the meantime + place a mould on ice, and decorate it with slices of preserved fruit, and + fix them to the mould with just enough nearly cold dissolved isinglass to + keep them in place. Also put half a pint of blanc-mange on the ice, and + stir it till it is the right consistency, gradually add the boiled rice, + half a glass of Maraschino, some bits of pineapple cut in dice, and last + of all half a pint of whipped cream. Fill the mould with this, and when it + is sufficiently cold, turn it out and serve with a garnish of glace fruits + or a few brandy cherries. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0243" id="link2H_4_0243"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes) + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Almonds (sweet and bitter), eggs, castor sugar. + </h3> + <p> + Blanch equal quantities of sweet and bitter almonds, and dry them a little + in the oven, then pound them in a mortar, and add nearly double their + quantity of castor sugar. Mix with the white of an egg well beaten up into + a snow, and shape into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg. Put + them on a piece of stout white paper, and bake them in a very slow oven. + They should be very light and delicate in flavour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0244" id="link2H_4_0244"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 220. Cakes alla Livornese + </h2> + <h3> + Ingredients: Almonds, eggs, sugar, salt, potato flour, butter. + </h3> + <p> + Pound two ounces of almonds, and mix them with the yolks of two eggs and a + spoonful of castor sugar flavoured with orange juice. Then mix two ounces + of sugar with an egg, and to this add the almonds, a pinch of salt, and + gradually strew in one and a half ounces of potato flour. When it is all + well mixed, add one ounce of melted butter, shape the cakes and bake them + in a slow oven. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0245" id="link2H_4_0245"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 221. Genoese Pastry + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, butter, flour, almonds, orange or lemon, brandy. + </p> + <p> + Weigh four eggs, and take equal weights of castor sugar, butter, and + flour. Pound three ounces of almonds, and mix them with an egg, melt the + butter, and mix all the ingredients with a wooden spoon in a pudding basin + for ten minutes, then add a little scraped orange or lemon peel, and a + dessert-spoonful of brandy. Spread out the paste in thin layers on a + copper baking sheet, cover them with buttered paper, and bake in a + moderately hot oven. + </p> + <p> + These cakes must be cut into shapes when they are hot, as otherwise they + will break. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0246" id="link2H_4_0246"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 222. Zabajone + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, sugar, Marsala, Maraschino or other light-coloured + liqueur, sponge fingers. + </p> + <p> + Zabajone is a kind of syllabub. It is made with Marsala and Maraschino, or + Marsala and yellow Chartreuse. Reckon the quantities as follows: for each + person the yolks of three eggs, one teaspoonful of castor sugar to each + egg, and a wine-glass of wine and liqueur mixed. Whip up the yolks of the + eggs with the sugar, then gradually add the wine. Put this in a + bain-marie, and stir until it has thickened to the consistency of a + custard. Take care, however, that it does not boil. Serve hot in custard + glasses, and hand sponge fingers with it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0247" id="link2H_4_0247"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 223. Iced Zabajone + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Eggs, castor sugar, Marsala, cinnamon, lemon, stick vanilla, + rum, Maraschino, butter, ice. + </p> + <p> + Mix the yolks of ten eggs, two dessert-spoonsful of castor sugar, and + three wine-glasses of Marsala, add half a stick of vanilla, a small bit of + whole cinnamon, and the peel of half a lemon cut into slices. + </p> + <p> + Whip this up lightly over a slow fire until it is nearly boiling and + slightly frothy; then remove it, take out the cinnamon, vanilla, and lemon + pool, and whip up the rest for a minute or two away from the fire. Add a + tablespoonful of Maraschino and one of rum, and, if you like, a small + quantity of dissolved isinglass. Stir up the whole, pour it into a silver + souffle dish, and put it on ice. Serve with sponge cakes or iced wafers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0248" id="link2H_4_0248"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake) + </h2> + <p> + Ingredients: Honey, almonds, filberts, candied lemon peel, pepper, + cinnamon, chocolate, corn flour, large wafers. + </p> + <p> + Boil half a pound of honey in a copper vessel, and then add to it a few + blanched almonds and filberts cut in halves or quarters and slightly + browned, a little candied lemon peel, a dust of pepper and powdered + cinnamon and a quarter pound of grated chocolate. Mix all well together, + and gradually add a tablespoonful of corn flour end two of ground almonds + to thicken it. Then take the vessel off the fire, spread the mixture on + large wafers, and make each cake about an inch thick. Garnish them on the + top with almonds cut in half, and dust over a little powdered sugar and + cinnamon, then put them in a very slow oven for an hour. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + NEW CENTURY SAUCE * * The New Century Sauce may be bought at Messrs. + Lazenby's, Wigmore Street, W + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0249" id="link2H_4_0249"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 225. Fish Sauce + </h2> + <p> + Add one dessert-spoonful of the sauce to a quarter pint of melted butter + sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0250" id="link2H_4_0250"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.) + </h2> + <p> + One dessert-spoonful to a quarter pint of ordinary brown or white stock. + It may be thickened by a roux made by frying two ounces of butter with two + ounces of flour. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0251" id="link2H_4_0251"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c. + </h2> + <p> + Two dessert-spoonsful of New Century Sauce to half a pint of game gravy or + sauce, and a small teaspoonful of red currant jelly. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0252" id="link2H_4_0252"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 228. Tomato Sauce Piquante + </h2> + <p> + Fry three medium-sized tomatoes in one and a half ounce of butter. Pass + this through a sieve, then boil it up in a bain-marie till it thickens, + and add one dessertspoonful of New Century Sauce. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0253" id="link2H_4_0253"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c. + </h2> + <p> + Add to any ordinary white or brown sauce one dessert-spoonful of New + Century Sauce and two of port or Burgundy if the sauce is brown, two of + Chablis if white. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0254" id="link2H_4_0254"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + No. 230. For masking Cutlets, &c. + </h2> + <p> + Making a roux by frying two ounces of butter with two ounces of flour, and + add two tablespoonsful of boiling stock. Stir in one dessert-spoonful of + New Century Sauce. Let it get cold, and it will then be quite firm and + ready for masking cutlets, &c. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cook's Decameron: A Study in Taste:, by +Mrs. W. G. Waters + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE COOK'S DECAMERON *** + +***** This file should be named 930-h.htm or 930-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/9/3/930/ + +Produced by Metra Christofferson, and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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