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diff --git a/8911.txt b/8911.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..33caf4b --- /dev/null +++ b/8911.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14350 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, The Journals of +John McDouall Stuart, by John McDouall Stuart + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Explorations in Australia, The Journals of John McDouall Stuart + When He Fixed The Centre Of The Continent And Successfully Crossed + It From Sea To Sea + + +Author: John McDouall Stuart + +Release Date: August 30, 2004 [EBook #8911] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA, *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat + + + + + +EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA. + + +THE JOURNALS + +OF + +JOHN McDOUALL STUART + +DURING THE YEARS + +1858, 1859, 1860, 1861, & 1862, + +WHEN HE FIXED THE CENTRE OF THE CONTINENT AND +SUCCESSFULLY CROSSED IT FROM SEA TO SEA. + + +EDITED FROM MR. STUART'S MANUSCRIPT +BY WILLIAM HARDMAN, M.A., F.R.G.S., &c. + +With Maps, a Photographic Portrait of Mr. Stuart, and twelve Engravings +drawn on wood by George French Angas, from Sketches taken during +the different expeditions. + +(SANS CHANGER. +S.O. AND CO.) + +SECOND EDITION. + + +1865. + + +ADVERTISEMENT + +TO THE + +SECOND EDITION. + +Since the first edition of this work was published Mr. Stuart has arrived +in England, and at a recent meeting of the Geographical Society he +announced that, taking advantage of his privilege as a discoverer, he had +christened the rich tract of country which he has opened up to the South +Australians Alexandra Land. + +December 1st, 1864. + + +PREFACE BY THE EDITOR. + +The explorations of Mr. John McDouall Stuart may truly be said, without +disparaging his brother explorers, to be amongst the most important in +the history of Australian discovery. In 1844 he gained his first +experiences under the guidance of that distinguished explorer, Captain +Sturt, whose expedition he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman. +Leaving Lake Torrens on the left, Captain Sturt and his party passed up +the Murray and the Darling, until finding that the latter would carry him +too far from the northern course, which was the one he had marked out for +himself, he turned up a small tributary known to the natives as the +Williorara. The water of this stream failing him, he pushed on over a +barren tract, until he suddenly came upon a fruitful and well-watered +spot, which he named the Rocky Glen. In this picturesque glen they were +detained for six months, during which time no rain fell. The heat of the +sun was so intense that every screw in their boxes was drawn, and all +horn handles and combs split into fine laminae. The lead dropped from +their pencils, their finger-nails became as brittle as glass, and their +hair, and the wool on their sheep, ceased to grow. Scurvy attacked them +all, and Mr. Poole, the second in command, died. In order to avoid the +scorching rays of the sun, they had excavated an underground chamber, to +which they retired during the heat of the day. + +When the long-expected rain fell, they pushed on for fifty miles to +another suitable halting-place, which was called Park Depot. From this +depot Captain Sturt made two attempts to reach the Centre of the +continent. He started, accompanied by four of his party, advancing over a +country which resembled an ocean whose mighty billows, fifty or sixty +feet high, had become suddenly hardened into long parallel ridges of +solid sand. The abrupt termination of this was succeeded at two hundred +miles by what is now so well known as Sturt's Stony Desert, to which +frequent allusion is made by Mr. Stuart in his journals. After thirty +miles more, this stony desert ceased with equal abruptness, and was +followed by a vast plain of dried mud, which Captain Sturt describes as +"a boundless ploughed field, on which floods had settled and subsided." +After advancing two hundred miles beyond the Stony Desert, and to within +one hundred and fifty miles of the Centre of the continent, they were +compelled to return to Park Depot, where they arrived in a most exhausted +condition. + +A short rest at the Depot was followed by another expedition, Captain +Sturt being on this occasion accompanied by Mr. Stuart and two men. The +seventh day of their journey brought them to the banks of a fine creek, +now so well known as Cooper Creek in connection with the fate of those +unfortunate explorers, Burke and Wills. At two hundred miles from Cooper +Creek Captain Sturt and his party were again met by the Stony Desert, but +slightly varied in its aspect. Before abandoning his attempt to proceed, +the leader of the expedition laid the matter before his companions, and +he writes as follows: "I should be doing an injustice to Mr. Stuart and +my men, if I did not here mention that I told them the position we were +placed in, and the chance on which our safety would depend if we went on. +They might well have been excused if they expressed an opinion contrary +to such a course; but the only reply they made me was to assure me that +they were ready and willing to follow me to the last." + +With much reluctance, however, Captain Sturt determined to return to +Cooper Creek without delay. They travelled night and day without +interruption, and on the morning of their arrival at the creek, one of +those terrible hot north winds, so much dreaded by the colonists, began +to blow with unusual violence. Lucky was it for them that it had not +overtaken them in the Desert, for they could scarcely have survived it. +The heat was awful; a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, burst, +though sheltered in the fork of a large tree, and their skin was +blistered by a torrent of fine sand, which was driven along by the fury +of the hurricane. They still had fearful difficulties to encounter, but +after an absence of nineteen months they returned safely to Adelaide. + +The discouraging account of the interior which was brought by Captain +Sturt did not prevent other explorers from making further attempts; but +the terrible fate of Kennedy and his party on York Peninsula, and the +utter disappearance of Leichardt's expedition, both in the same year +(1848), had a very decided influence in checking the progress of +Australian exploration. Seven years later, in 1855, Mr. Gregory landed on +the north-west coast for the purpose of exploring the Victoria River, and +after penetrating as far south as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes, +longitude 131 degrees 44 minutes, he was compelled to proceed to the head +of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thence to Sydney along the route taken by +Dr. Leichardt in 1844. Shortly after his return Mr. Gregory was +despatched by the Government of New South Wales in 1857, to find, if +possible, some trace of the lost expedition of the lamented Leichardt; +his efforts, however, did nothing to clear up the mystery that enshrouds +the fate of that celebrated explorer.* (* It is possible that Mr. +McKinlay has been hasty in the opinion he formed from the graves and +remains of white men shown to him by Keri Keri, and the story related of +their massacre. May they not belong to Leichardt's party?) + +The colonists of South Australia have always been distinguished for +promoting by private aid and public grant the cause of exploration. They +usually kept somebody in the field, whose discoveries were intended to +throw light on the caprices of Lake Torrens, at one time a vast inland +sea, at another a dry desert of stones and baked mud. Hack, Warburton, +Freeling, Babbage, and other well-known names, are associated with this +particular district, and, in 1858, Stuart started to the north-west of +the same country, accompanied by one white man (Forster) and a native. In +this, the first expedition which he had the honour to command, he was +aided solely by his friend Mr. William Finke, but in his later journeys +Mr. James Chambers also bore a share of the expense.* (* It is greatly to +be regretted that both these gentlemen are since dead. Mr. Chambers did +not survive to witness the success of his friend's later expeditions, and +the news of Mr. Finke's death reached us while these sheets were going +through the press.) This journey was commenced in May, 1858, from Mount +Eyre in the north to Denial and Streaky Bays on the west coast of the +Port Lincoln country. On this journey Mr. Stuart accomplished one of the +most arduous feats in all his travels, having, with one man only (the +black having basely deserted them), pushed through a long tract of dense +scrub and sand with unusual rapidity, thus saving his own life and that +of his companion. During this part of the journey they were without food +or water, and his companion was thoroughly dispirited and despairing of +success. This expedition occupied him till September, 1858, and was +undertaken with the object of examining the country for runs. On his +return the South Australian Government presented him with a large grant +of land in the district which he had explored. + +Mr. Stuart now turned his attention to crossing the interior, and, with +the assistance of his friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke, he was enabled +to make two preparatory expeditions in the vicinity of Lake Torrens--from +April 2nd to July 3rd, 1859, and from November 4th, 1859, to January +21st, 1860. The fourth expedition started from Chambers Creek (discovered +by Mr. Stuart in 1858, and since treated as his head-quarters for +exploring purposes), on March 2nd, 1860, and consisted of Mr. Stuart and +two men, with thirteen horses. Proceeding steadily northwards, until the +country which his previous explorations had rendered familiar was left +far behind, on April 23rd the great explorer calmly records in his +Journal the following important announcement: "To-day I find from my +observations of the sun that I am now camped in the CENTRE OF AUSTRALIA." +One of the greatest problems of Australian discovery was solved! The +Centre of the continent was reached, and, instead of being an +inhospitable desert or an inland sea, it was a splendid grass country +through which ran numerous watercourses. + +Leaving the Centre, a north-westerly course was followed, but, after +various repulses, a north-easterly course eventually carried the party as +far as latitude 18 degrees 47 minutes south, longitude 134 degrees, when +they were driven back by the hostility of the natives. As has already +been stated, Mr. Gregory in 1855, starting from the north-west coast, had +penetrated to the south as low as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes, +longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes. Mr. Stuart had now reached a position +about half-way between Gregory's lowest southward point and the head of +the Gulf of Carpentaria. Without actually reaching the country explored +by Gregory, he had overlapped his brother explorer's position by one +degree and a half, or more than one hundred miles, and was about two +hundred and fifty miles in actual distance from the nearest part of the +shores of the Gulf. It is important to remark that the attack of the +savages which forced Mr. Stuart to return occurred on June 26th, 1860, so +that he had virtually crossed the continent two months before Messrs. +Burke and Wills had left Melbourne.* (* They did not leave Cooper Creek +until December 14th, rather more than a fortnight before Mr. Stuart +started on his fifth expedition.) + +On New Year's day 1861, Mr. Stuart again left Adelaide, aided this time +by a grant from the Colonial Government of 2500 pounds, in addition to +the assistance of his well-tried friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke. He +made his former position with ease, and advanced about one hundred miles +beyond it, to latitude 17 degrees, longitude 133 degrees; but an +impenetrable scrub barred all further progress, and failing provisions, +etc., compelled him, after such prolonged and strenuous efforts that his +horses on one occasion were one hundred and six hours without water, most +reluctantly to return. The expedition arrived safely in the settled +districts in September, and the determined explorer, after a delay of +less than a month, was again despatched by the South Australian +Government along what had now become to him a familiar road. This time +success crowned his efforts; a passage was found northwards through the +opposing scrub, and leaving the Gulf of Carpentaria far to the right, the +Indian Ocean itself was reached. Other explorers had merely seen the rise +and fall of the tide in rivers, boggy ground and swamps intervening and +cutting off all chance of ever seeing the sea. But Stuart actually stood +on its shore and washed his hands in its waters! What a pleasure it must +have been to the leader when, knowing well from his reckoning that the +sea must be close at hand, but keeping it a secret from all except Thring +and Auld, he witnessed the joyful surprise of the rest of the party! + +The expedition reached Adelaide safely, although for a long time the +leader's life was despaired of, the constant hardships of so many +journeys with scarcely any intermission having brought on a terrible +attack of scurvy. The South Australian Government in 1859 liberally +rewarded Mr. Stuart and his party for their successful enterprise.* (* +Mr. Stuart's qualities as a practised Bushman are unrivalled, and he has +always succeeded in bringing his party back without loss of life.) On the +10th of March a resolution was passed to the effect that a sum of 3500 +pounds should be paid as a reward to John McDouall Stuart, Esquire, and +the members of his party, in the following proportions: Mr. Stuart 2000 +pounds; Mr. Keckwick 500 pounds; Messrs. Thring and Auld 200 pounds each; +and Messrs. King, Billiatt, Frew, Nash, McGorrerey, and Waterhouse, 100 +pounds each. Perhaps this is the most fitting place to express Mr. +Stuart's appreciation of the honour done him by the Royal Geographical +Society of London, in awarding him their gold medal and presenting him +with a gold watch. He wishes particularly to express his hearty thanks to +Sir Roderick Murchison, and the other distinguished members of the +society, for the lively interest they have evinced in his welfare. + +Mr. Stuart's experiences have led him to form a very decided opinion as +to the cause of the well-known hot winds of Australia, so long the +subject of scientific speculation. North and north-west of Flinders Range +are large plains covered with stones, extending as far as latitude 25 +degrees. To the north of that, although the sun was intensely hot, there +were no hot winds; in fact from that parallel of latitude to the Indian +Ocean, either going or returning, they were not met with. "On reaching +latitude 27 degrees on my return," writes Mr. Stuart, "I found the hot +winds prevailing again as on my outward journey. I saw no sandy desert to +which these hot winds have been attributed, but, on lifting some of the +stones that were lying on the surface,* I found them so hot that I was +obliged to drop them immediately. (* On the surface, as I suppose, of the +large plains North of Flinders Range. ED.) It is my opinion that when a +north wind blows across those stone-covered plains, it collects the heat +from them, and the air, becoming rarified, is driven on southwards with +increased vehemence. To the north of latitude 25 degrees, although +exposure to the sun in the middle of the day was very oppressive, yet the +moment we got under the shade of a tree we felt quite alive again; there +was none of that languid feeling which is experienced in the south during +a hot wind, as for example that which blew on the morning after reaching +the Hamilton,* in latitude 26 degrees 40 minutes. (* Journal 1861 to +1862.) That was one of the hottest winds I ever experienced. I had the +horses brought up at 7 o'clock, intending to proceed, but seeing there +was a very hot wind coming on, I had them turned out again. It was well I +did so, for before 10 o'clock all the horses were in small groups under +the trees, and the men lying under the shade of blankets unable to do +anything, so overpowering was the heat." Unfortunately, Mr. Stuart had no +thermometer. + +Mr. Stuart is anxious to direct attention to the establishment of a +Telegraph line along his route. On this subject he writes as follows:-- + +"On my arrival in Adelaide from my last journey I found a great deal of +anxiety felt as to whether a line could be carried across to the mouth of +the Adelaide river. There would be a few difficulties in the way, but +none which could not be overcome and made to repay the cost of such an +undertaking. The first would be in crossing from Mr. Glen's station to +Chambers Creek, in finding timber sufficiently long for poles, supposing +that no more favourable line than I travelled over could be adopted, but +I have good reason for supposing that there is plenty of suitable timber +in the range and creek, not more than ten miles off my track: the +distance between the two places is one hundred miles. From Chambers Creek +through the spring country to the Gap in Hanson Range the cartage would +be a little farther, in consequence of the timber being scarce in some +places. There are many creeks in which it would be found, but I had not +time to examine them in detail. Another difficulty would be in crossing +the McDonnell Range, which is rough and ragged, but there is a great +quantity of timber in the Hugh; the distance to this in a straight line +is not more than seven miles; from thence to the Roper River there are a +few places where the cartage might be from ten to twenty miles, that is +in crossing the plains where only stunted gum-trees grow, but tall timber +can be obtained from the rising ground around them. From latitude 16 +degrees 30 minutes south to the north coast, there would be no difficulty +whatever, as there is an abundance of timber everywhere. I am promised +information, through the kindness of Mr. Todd, of the Telegraph +department, as to the average cost of establishing the lines through the +outer districts of this colony, and it is my intention to make a +calculation of the cost of a line on my route, by which the comparative +merits and expense will be tested, and I am of opinion I shall be able to +show most favourable results. I should have been glad for this +information to have accompanied my works, but I find I cannot postpone +them longer for that purpose, as parties have already taken advantage of +the delay occasioned by my illness at the time of, and since, my arrival +home to collect what scraps of information they could obtain, with the +intention of publishing them as my travels. I leave the reward of such +conduct to a discriminating public; I shall not fail to carry out my +intention with regard to a Telegraph line; and should I have no +opportunity of submitting it to the public, I shall take care to advance +the matter in such channels as may be most likely to lead to a successful +issue. I beg reference to my map accompanying this work, which will at +once show the favourable geographical situation of the Adelaide River for +a settlement, and the short and safe route it opens up for communication +and trading with India: indeed when I look upon the present system of +shipping to that important empire, I cannot over-estimate the advantages +that such an extended intercourse would create." + +Mr. Stuart is also very anxious for the formation of a new colony on the +scene of his discoveries on the River Adelaide, and would fain have been +one of the first pioneers of such an enterprise, but his health has been +so much shattered by his last journey that he can only now hope to see +younger men follow in the path which he had made his own. He writes as +follows:-- + +"Judging from the experience I have had in travelling through the +Continent of Australia for the last twenty-two years, and also from the +description that other explorers have given of the different portions +they have examined in their journeys, I have no hesitation in saying, +that the country that I have discovered on and around the banks of the +Adelaide River is more favourable than any other part of the continent +for the formation of a new colony. The soil is generally of the richest +nature ever formed for the benefit of mankind: black and alluvial, and +capable of producing anything that could be desired, and watered by one +of the finest rivers in Australia. This river was found by Lieutenant +Helpman to be about four to seven fathoms deep at the mouth, and at one +hundred and twenty miles up (the furthest point he reached) it was found +to be about seven fathoms deep and nearly one hundred yards broad, with a +clear passage all the way up. I struck it about this point, and followed +it down, encamping fifteen miles from its mouth, and found the water +perfectly fresh, and the river broader and apparently very deep; the +country around most excellent, abundantly supplied with fresh water, +running in many flowing streams into the Adelaide River, the grass in +many places growing six feet high, and the herbage very close--a thing +seldom seen in a new country. The timber is chiefly composed of +stringy-bark, gum, myall, casurina, pine, and many other descriptions of +large timber, all of which will be most useful to new colonists. There is +also a plentiful supply of stone in the low rises suitable for building +purposes, and any quantity of bamboo can be obtained from the river from +two to fifty feet long. I measured one fifteen inches in circumference, +and saw many larger. The river abounds in fish and waterfowl of all +descriptions. On my arrival from the coast I kept more to the eastward of +my north course, with the intention of seeing further into the country. I +crossed the sources of the running streams before alluded to, and had +great difficulty in getting more to the west. They take their rise from +large bodies of springs coming from extensive grassy plains, which proves +there must be a very considerable underground drainage, as there are no +hills of sufficient elevation to cause the supply of water in these +streams. I feel confident that, if a new settlement is formed in this +splendid country, in a few years it will become one of the brightest gems +in the British Crown. To South Australia and some of the more remote +Australian colonies the benefits to be derived from the formation of such +a colony would be equally advantageous, creating an outlet for their +surplus beef and mutton, which would be eagerly consumed by the races in +the Indian Islands, and payment made by the shipment of their useful +ponies, and the other valuable products of those islands; indeed I see +one of the finest openings I am aware of for trading between these +islands and a colony formed where proposed." + +Mr. Stuart was accompanied on his last journey by Mr. Waterhouse, a +clever naturalist, whose report to the Commissioner of Crown Lands of +South Australia, although too long for insertion here, is full of most +interesting information. Unfortunately, the interests of geographical +science were apparently lost sight of in the hurry to effect the grand +object of the expedition, namely, to cross from sea to sea. Thermometers +were forgotten; two mounted maps of the country from Chambers Creek to +Newcastle Water, in a tin case, never came to hand, and the expedition +was provided with no means of estimating even the approximate height of +the elevated land or of the mountains in the interior. As Mr. Waterhouse +remarks: "The thermometers were much needed, as it would have been very +desirable to have kept a register of the temperature, and to have tested +occasionally the degree of heat at which water boiled on the high table +lands. The loss of the maps prevented my marking down at the time on the +maps the physical features of the country, and the distribution of its +fauna and flora." + +Mr. Waterhouse divides the country into three divisions. The first, which +extends from Goolong Springs to a little north of the Gap in Hanson +Range, latitude 27 degrees 18 minutes 23 seconds, may be called the +spring and saltbush country. The second division commences north of the +Gap in Hanson Range, and extends to the southern side of Newcastle Water, +latitude 17 degrees 36 minutes 29 seconds. It is marked by great scarcity +of water--in fact, there are few places where water can be relied on as +permanent--and also by the presence of the porcupine grass (Triodia +pungens of Gregory, and Spinifex of Stuart), which is the prevailing +flora. The third division commences from the north end of Newcastle +Water, latitude 17 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds, and extends to Van +Diemen Gulf, latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds; it comprises a +large part of Sturt Plains, with soil formed of a fine lacustrine +deposit, the valleys of the Roper filled with a luxuriant tropical +vegetation, and thence to the Adelaide River and the sea-coast. + +On visiting Hergott Springs, Mr. Waterhouse learnt that Mr. Burtt, whose +station* is only a few miles distant, in opening these springs discovered +some fossil bones, casts of which were forwarded to Professor Owen, who +pronounced them to be the remains of a gigantic extinct marsupial, named +Diprotodon Australis. (* Hergott Springs were only discovered and named +by Stuart three years before, yet we now find a station close by them. +The explorer is not far ahead of his fellow-colonists, as is well +remarked by the Edinburgh Review for July, 1862: "Australian occupation +has kept close on the heels of Australian discovery.") Bones of this +animal have also been found in a newer tertiary formation in New South +Wales. Mr. Waterhouse considers that a great tertiary drift extends over +this part of the country, obscuring and concealing at no great depth +below the surface many springs, which may hereafter be discovered as the +country becomes better known. + +The Louden Spa is a hot spring arising out of a small hillock, and +proceeds from the fissures of volcanic rock. This water is medicinal, but +not disagreeable to the taste: the damper made with it was very light, +and tasted like soda-bread. + +In his remarks on the second division Mr. Waterhouse states much that is +valuable. He estimates the height of Mount Hay at two thousand feet, +regarding it as the highest point of the McDonnell Range, which is the +natural centre of this part of the continent. Mr. Waterhouse only saw +Chambers Pillar from a distance, but he had an opportunity of examining a +smaller hill of the same character, and found it to be composed of a soft +loose argillaceous rock, at the top of which was a thin stratum of a hard +siliceous rock, much broken up. "The isolated hills appear to have been +at some remote period connected, but from the soft and loose nature of +the lower rock meeting with the action of water, had arisen a succession +of landslips. These have been washed away and others have followed in +their turn; the upper rock, from being undermined, has fallen down and +broken up, supplying the peculiar siliceous stones so widely distributed +on parts of the surface of the country." + +The vegetation of this district is poor; the myall is scarce, but the +mulga (Acacia aneura) generally plentiful. Both these shrubs are species +of acacia, the myall being of much larger growth and longer lived than +the mulga. Nutritious grass is seldom found except in the immediate +vicinity of the creeks, and the scrubs are very extensive. + +Mr. Waterhouse collected a great number of specimens of natural history, +but, from want of the convenience for carrying them, many of the more +delicate objects were broken. + +In the Appendix will be found some remarks by Mr. John Gould, F.R.S., +etc., on the birds collected by Mr. Waterhouse during Mr. Stuart's +expedition, including a description of a new and beautiful parrakeet. +There are also descriptions of new species of Freshwater Shells from the +same expedition, by Mr. Arthur Adams, F.L.S., and Mr. G. French Angas, to +the skill of which latter gentleman this work is indebted for its +admirable illustrations. + +Dr. Muller, the Government Botanist, Director of the Botanic Garden at +Melbourne, in his report to both Houses of the Legislature of Victoria, +April 15th, 1863, says, "A series of all the plants collected during Mr. +J.M. Stuart's last expedition was presented by the Hon. H. Strangways, +Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia, and those of the former +expeditions of that highly distinguished explorer, by the late J. +Chambers, Esquire, of North Adelaide." Of this collection, Dr. Muller has +furnished a systematic enumeration, which will be found in the Appendix. +This enumeration must not, however, be accepted as final, for Dr. Muller +has forwarded all the specimens to England for the inspection of Mr. +Bentham, the learned President of the Linnaean Society of London, who is +now elaborating his great and exhaustive work on the Flora of Australia, +the second volume of which will shortly be before the public. + +WILLIAM HARDMAN. + + + +CONTENTS. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER, +1858. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE +TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE +TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION (FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE +CONTINENT). FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO +SEPTEMBER, 1861. + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF +AUSTRALIA. FROM DECEMBER, 1861, TO DECEMBER, 1862. + + +APPENDIX. + + +(LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + +PORTRAIT OF JOHN MACDOUALL STUART. Adelaide, April 1863. Professor Hall. +Photograph. + +SKETCH MAP OF AUSTRALIA, SHOWING THE POSITION OF MR. STUART'S ROUTE. + +NORTH-WEST OF STUART'S CREEK. + +NORTH-WEST POINT OF LAKE TORRENS. + +THE HERMIT HILL AND FINNISS SPRINGS. + +ELIZABETH SPRINGS. + +SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE EYRE. + +CHAMBERS PILLAR. + +CENTRAL MOUNT STUART. + +ATTACK CREEK. + +BRINKLEY BLUFF. + +CHAMBERS CREEK. + +TABLE LAND AND VALLEY OF THE ADELAIDE. + +PLANTING THE FLAG ON THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN.) + + + +EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA. + + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER, +1858. + +On the 14th of May, 1858, Mr. Stuart started from Oratunga (the head +station of Mr. John Chambers), accompanied by Mr. Barker, with six +horses, and all that was requisite (with one important exception, as will +be seen hereafter), for an excursion to the north-west of Swinden's +Country. They arrived at Aroona the same evening. On the following day +(the 15th) they made Morleeanna Creek, and reached Ootaina on the 16th, +about 7 p.m. Here they remained for a couple of days, as sufficient rain +had not fallen to enable them to proceed. On the afternoon of the 19th +they arrived at Mr. Sleep's, who informed them that Mr. M. Campbell had +returned from the West, being hard pushed for water; very little rain +having fallen to the west. The next day (20th) Mr. Stuart arrived at Mr. +Louden's, but, in consequence of some difficulties about the horses, he +returned to Ootaina. Various preparations, combined with want of rain, +compelled him to delay his start until the 10th of June. Here the journal +commences:-- + +Thursday, 10th June, 1858. Started from Ootaina at 1 p.m. for Beda. +Camped on the plain, about thirteen miles from Mount Eyre. + +Friday, 11th June, West Plain. Made Mudleealpa at 11 a.m. The horses +would not drink the water. Proceeded for about five miles towards Beda. +The plains are fearfully dry; they have the appearance as if no rain had +fallen here for a long time, and I am very much afraid there will be no +water at Beda. If such should be the case, the horses will suffer too +much in the beginning of their journey to be without a drink to-night. I +think it will be best to return to Mudleealpa, leave our saddles, +rations, etc. there, and drive the horses back to water. I sent Mr. +Forster back with them, telling him if he can find no water between this +and Mr. Sleep's, to take them there, remain for the night, give them a +drink in the morning, and return; we shall then be able to make a fresh +start to-morrow. Bearings: Mount Arden, 154 degrees 30 minutes; Mount +Eyre, 77 degrees 30 minutes; Beda Hill, 272 degrees; Mount Elder, 64 +degrees 50 minutes; Dutchman's Stern, 162 degrees 15 minutes. + +Saturday, 12th June, Mudleealpa. In examining the creek a little higher +up, we found another well. By cleaning it out, the water is drinkable. +The horses did not arrive until it was too late to start, and having +water here now, that they can drink, we camped here another night. + +Sunday, 13th June, Mudleealpa. Started for Beda. Some of the horses would +not drink the water, and others drank very little: they will be glad to +drink far worse than this before they come back, or I am much mistaken. +Arrived at Beda at sundown. I was right in my opinion; no fresh water to +be found; nothing but salt, salter than the sea. I can see nothing of Mr. +Babbage's* encampment; he must be higher up the creek. All the country we +have come over to-day is very dry. (* It will probably be recollected +that Mr. Babbage was sent out by the Government to make a north-west +course through the continent, but, when at the Elizabeth, he made an +unaccountable detour, and found himself at Port Augusta, his original +starting-point. On my return from this journey he called on me at Mount +Arden, when I furnished him with such information as he required, and he +again started, and made Chambers' Creek, which I had previously found and +named after my old friend, Mr. James Chambers, but which he called +Stuart's Creek in acknowledgment of my information, etc. J. McD. Stuart.) + +Monday, 14th June, Beda. This morning we have searched all round, but can +find no fresh water, although there are numerous places that would retain +water if any quantity had fallen. Mr. Forster, whom I had sent up the +creek to Mr. Babbage's, to inquire if there was any water at Pernatta, +has returned with the information that Mr. B. was up there with all his +horses, and that there was still a little water, but not much. Started at +11.30 a.m. for that place; camped in the sand hills one hour after dark. +Here we found some pig-faces* which the horses eat freely. (* These +pig-faces belong to the Mesembryaceae, of which the common ice-plant of +our gardens is an example.) There is a great deal of moisture in them, +and they are a first-rate thing for thirsty horses; besides, they have a +powerful diuretic effect. I was unable to fix Beda Hill, all my time +being taken up in looking for water, but I hope to get its position at +Pernatta. The country was very heavy--sand hills. + +Tuesday, 15th June, Sand Hills. Started at break of day for Pernatta. +About 10 a.m. met Mr. Babbage's two men returning with some of the horses +for rations. They informed me that the water was nearly all gone, but +that there was plenty in the Elizabeth, nineteen miles from Pernatta. I +intended to keep on the track, but our black insisted that Pernatta lay +through a gap, and not round the bluff. I allowed him to have his own +way. Our route was through a very stony saddle. When there we saw a gum +creek, and made for it; when we arrived at the creek he told us that was +Pernatta. We looked for water, and found a little hole, which, to our +great disappointment, contained salt water. Could see nothing of Mr. +Babbage's camp. I then asked our black where there was another water; he +said, "Down the creek," which we followed. He took us to five or six +water holes, with native names, every one dry. The last one he called +Yolticourie. It being now within an hour of sundown, I would follow him +no longer, but unsaddled, and told Mr. Forster to take the black and the +horses, and to steer for the bluff; if he found no water between, to +intersect Mr. Babbage's tracks, and follow them up and get water. I +remained with our provisions. The black fellow evidently does not know +the country. I am sorry that I have taken him with me. I think I shall +send him back; he is of little use in assisting to get the horses in the +morning. + +Wednesday, 16th June, Yolticourie. The horses have returned; they found +no water last night; they were obliged to camp for the night, it being so +dark, but they found Mr. Babbage's camp very early. The horses drank all +the water. I was wrong in blaming the black fellow; he took us to the +RIGHT Pernatta. It is another water that Mr. B. is encamped at. He moves +to-day for the Elizabeth, which I also will do. He found the remains of +poor Coulthard yesterday. We must have passed quite close to them in our +search for water. He has sent for me to come and assist at the burial. It +being so late in the day (12 o'clock), and the horses requiring more +water, and he having four men besides himself, I do not see that I can be +of any use, and it might cause me to lose another day, and the horses to +be another night without water, which would be an injury to them, they +not having had sufficient this morning. Mr. B. also sent to say that he +would accompany me to the Elizabeth. I have delayed an hour for him, and +he has not yet made his appearance; it being now 1 o'clock, and having to +travel seventeen miles, I can wait no longer. Started for Bottle Hill; +arrived on the south side of the hill an hour and a half before sundown, +found some water and plenty of grass; encamped for the night. Distance +to-day, seventeen miles. The former part of the journey was over very +stony country; the latter part very heavy sand hills. + +Thursday, 17th June, Bottle Hill. Got on the top of Bottle Hill to take +bearings, but was disappointed; could see no hill except one, which was +either Mount Deception or Mount North-west; the bearing was 51 degrees 30 +minutes. There is a small cone of stones on the top, and a flat stone on +the top of it, with the names of Louden and Burtt. From here I saw the +gum trees in the Elizabeth; course to them 325 degrees 30 minutes, seven +miles to the creek. The country from the hill here is of the very worst +description--nothing but sand and salt bush. + +Friday, 18th June, The Elizabeth. We must rest our horses to-day, they +have not yet recovered from their long thirst. I am quite disappointed +with this creek and the surrounding country. The water is not permanent, +it is only rain water; since we arrived yesterday it has shrunk a great +deal. There are small plains on each side from a quarter to half a mile +broad with salt bush; the hills are very stony with a little salt bush, +and destitute of timber, except the few gum-trees in the creek and the +mulga bushes in the sand hills. + +Saturday, 19th June, The Elizabeth. The sky was quite overcast with cloud +during the night, and a few drops of rain fell, but of no consequence. +Started at 9.30 a.m., on a bearing of 308 degrees for six miles; changed +the bearing to 355 degrees for one mile and a half; next bearing 328 +degrees for four miles, to the north side of a dry swamp; next bearing 4 +degrees for ten miles and a half; next bearing 350 degrees for four miles +to a sand hill. Camped. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles, over a very +bad country, with large fragments of a hard flinty stone covering the +surface. Salt bush with small sand hills. No water. + +Sunday, 20th June, Sand Hill. Started at 9 a.m., on a course of 25 +degrees for sixteen miles. At 1 p.m., came upon a creek, in which I +thought there might be water; examined it and found two water holes, with +plenty of grass upon their banks. The water is not permanent. Our course +to-day has been across stony plains (covered on the surface with +fragments resembling hard white quartz), with sand hills about two miles +broad dividing them. The black did not know of this water; I am very +doubtful of his knowing anything of the country. The stony plains are +surrounded by high heavy sand hills, especially to the west and +north-west; I dare not attempt to get through them without rain. They are +much higher than the country that I am travelling through. It seems as if +there had been no rain for twelve months, every thing is so dried and +parched up. On further examination of the creek we have found a large +hole of clear water, with rushes growing round it; I almost think it is +permanent, and intend to run the risk of falling back upon it should I be +forced to retreat and wait for rain. The creek seems to drain the large +stony plains that we crossed; the water is three and a half feet deep, +ten yards wide, by forty yards long. + +Monday, 21st June, Water Creek. Started at 9.30 a.m. on a course of 25 +degrees. At a mile passed a small table-topped hill to the west of our +line; at three miles and a half crossed the creek; at four miles passed +another table-topped hill connected with the low range to the east, and +passed the first ironstone hill; at seven miles changed to 55 degrees; at +eight miles halted at a large permanent water hole (Andamoka). I can with +safety say that this is permanent; it is a splendid water hole, nearly as +large as the one at the mouth of the gorge in the John. The low range to +the east of our course, and running nearly parallel with it, is composed +of conglomerate, quartz, and a little ironstone. Part of to-day's journey +was over low undulating sandy and very well grassed country. There seems +to have been a little rain here lately; the grass is springing +beautifully. At eleven miles we came upon a salt lagoon (Wealaroo) two +miles long by one broad. From the north end of it, on a bearing of 55 +degrees, one mile and a half will strike Andamoka. I think we have now +left the western sand hills behind us; and now that we have permanent +water to fall back on, I shall strike into the north-west to-morrow. The +distance travelled to-day was fifteen miles. The country around this +water consists of bold stony rises and sand, with salt bush and grass; no +timber except mulga and a few myall bushes in the creek. On an +examination of the creek, we have found salt water above and below this +hole. In one place above there are cakes of salt one inch and a half +thick, a convincing proof that this is supplied by springs. + +Tuesday, 22nd June, Andamoka. Started on a bearing of 342 degrees. At +seven miles and a half, crossed a low stony range running east-north-east +and west-south-west, which turned out to be table land, with sand hills +crossing our line, bearing to a high range east of us 93 degrees 30 +minutes. About eight miles in the same direction there is the appearance +of a long salt lake. At nine miles and a half, on a sand hill, I obtained +the following bearings: Mount North-west, 60 degrees 30 minutes; Mount +Deception, 95 degrees. At eleven miles and a half passed a large reedy +swamp on our left, dry. At seventeen miles sand hills ceased. At eighteen +miles and a half the sand hills again commenced, and we changed our +course to north for three miles. Camped for the night at a creek of +permanent water, very good. The last four miles of to-day's journey have +been over very stony rises with salt bush and a little grass. + +Wednesday, 23rd June, Permanent Water Creek. The horses had strayed so +far that we did not get a start until 10 a.m. Bearing to-day, 318 +degrees. At two miles crossed a tea-tree creek, in which there is water, +coming from the stony rises, and running to the north of east. At six +miles the sand hills again commence. To this place we have come over a +stony plain, covered on the surface with fragments of limestone, quartz, +and ironstone, with salt bush and grass. In a watery season it must be +well covered with grass; the old grass is lying between the salt bushes. +We have a view of part of the lake (Torrens) bearing north-east about +fifteen or twenty miles from us; to the west again the stony rises, +apparently more open. At ten miles, in the sand hills, we have again a +view of Flinders range. The bearings are: Mount North-west, 78 degrees 35 +minutes; Mount Deception, 107 degrees. At fourteen and a half miles we +found a clay-pan of water, with beautiful green feed for the horses. As +we don't know when we shall find more water, and as Forster has a damper +to bake, I decide to camp for the rest of the day. Our route has lain +over heavy sand hills for the last eight miles. + +Thursday, 24th June, Sand Hills. At 8.30 we left on a course of 340 +degrees, commencing with about two miles of rather heavy sand hills. At +eight miles these sand hills diminished, and the valleys between them +became much wider--both sand hills and valleys being well covered with +grass and salt bush, with courses of lime and ironstone cropping out and +running east and west. At twelve miles changed our course to 79 degrees, +to examine a gum creek (Yarraout), which we ran down for water, but did +not obtain it before four miles, when we found a small hole of rain +water. This creek seems to be a hunting-ground of the natives, as we saw +a great many summer worleys on its banks. They had evidently been here +to-day, for, a little above where we first struck the creek, we saw some +smoke, but on following it up, we found they had gone; most likely they +had seen us and run away. The latter part of our journey to-day was over +a stony plain, bounded on the west by the stony table land with the sand +hills on the top. All this country seems to have been under water, and is +most likely the bed of Lake Torrens, or Captain Sturt's inland sea. In +travelling over the plains, one is reminded of going over a rough, +gravelly beach; the stones are all rounded and smooth. Distance to-day, +thirty miles. + +Friday, 25th June, Yarraout Gum Creek. Started at 9.40 from the point +where we first struck the creek last night, bearing 20 degrees for two +miles, thence 61 degrees for one mile to a high sand hill, thence 39 +degrees for one mile to a stony rise. My doubt of the black fellow's +knowledge of the country is now confirmed; he seems to be quite lost, and +knows nothing of the country, except what he has heard other blacks +relate; he is quite bewildered and points all round when I ask him the +direction of Wingillpin. I have determined to push into the westward, +keeping a little north of west. Bearing 292 degrees for five miles, sand +hills; thence 327 degrees to a table-hill nine miles. Camped without +water. Our route to-day has been through sand hills, with a few miles of +stones and dry reedy swamp, all well grassed, but no water. We came +across some natives, who kept a long distance off. I sent our black up to +them, to ask in which direction Wingillpin lay. They pointed to the +course I was then steering, and said, "Five sleeps." They would not come +near to us. About three-quarters of an hour afterwards I came suddenly +upon another native, who was hunting in the sand hills. My attention +being engaged in keeping the bearing, I did not observe him until he +moved, but I pulled up at once, lest he should run away, and called to +him. What he imagined I was I do not know; but when he turned round and +saw me, I never beheld a finer picture of astonishment and fear. He was a +fine muscular fellow, about six feet in height, and stood as if riveted +to the spot, with his mouth wide open, and his eyes staring. I sent our +black forward to speak with him, but omitted to tell him to dismount. The +terrified native remained motionless, allowing our black to ride within a +few yards of him, when, in an instant, he threw down his waddies, and +jumped up into a mulga bush as high as he could, one foot being about +three feet from the ground, and the other about two feet higher, and kept +waving us off with his hand as we advanced. I expected every moment to +see the bush break with his weight. When close under the bush, I told our +black to inquire if he were a Wingillpin native. He was so frightened he +could not utter a word, and trembled from head to foot. We then asked him +where Wingillpin was. He mustered courage to let go one hand, and +emphatically snapping his fingers in a north-west direction, again waved +us off. I take this emphatic snapping of his fingers to mean a long +distance. Probably this Wingillpin may be Cooper's Creek. We then left +him, and proceeded on our way through the sand hills. About an hour +before sunset, we came in full sight of a number of tent and table-topped +hills to the north-west, the stony table land being to the south of us, +and the dip of the country still towards Lake Torrens. I shall keep a +little more to the west to-morrow if possible, to get the fall of the +country the other way. The horses' shoes have been worn quite thin by the +stones, and will not last above a day or two. Nay, some of the poor +animals are already shoeless. It is most unfortunate that we did not +bring another set with us. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles. + +Saturday, 26th June, Edge of Plain. Started at 9.30 a.m., on a bearing of +314 degrees 30 minutes, over an undulating plain, with low sand hills and +wide valleys, with plenty of grass and salt bush. After ten miles the +sand hills ceased, and at thirteen miles we reached the point of the +stony table land. Here we saw, to the north-north-west, what was +apparently a large gum creek, running north-east and south-west. Changing +our bearing to 285 degrees, after seven miles of very bad stony plain, +thinly covered with salt bush and grass, we came upon the creek, and +found long reaches of permanent water, divided here and there by only a +few yards of rocks, and bordered by reeds and rushes. The water hole, by +which we camped, is from forty to fifty feet wide, and half a mile in +length; the water is excellent, and I could see small fish in it about +two inches long. About ten miles down the creek the country seems to be +more open, and the gum-trees much larger, and in a distant bend of the +creek I can perceive a large body of water. The first of the seven or +eight tent-like hills that were to the east of our route to-day presents +a somewhat remarkable appearance. Of a conical form, it comes to a point +like a Chinaman's hat, and is encircled near the top by a black ring, +while some rocks resembling a white tower crown the summit. Distance +to-day, twenty miles. + +Sunday, 27th June, Large Water Creek. Cloudy morning, with prospect of +rain. A swan visited the water hole last night, and to-day we have seen +both the mountain duck and the large black duck. Having a shoe to fix +upon Jersey, and my courses to map down, we did not get a start until 10 +o'clock, and we were obliged to stop early in consequence of the grey +mare getting so lame that we were unable to proceed. We had an old shoe +or two, and Mr. Forster managed to get one on the mare. We started to-day +on a bearing of 270 degrees for eight miles to a low flat-topped hill, +when we changed to 220 degrees for five miles to a gum creek with rain +water. About five miles to the north of our line there are flat-topped +ranges, running north-east. The main creek runs on the south side of this +course, and nearly parallel to it. Further to the south, at a distance of +about ten miles, is still the stony table land with the sand hills. The +country is fearfully stony, but improves a little in grass as we get +west. It seems to be well watered. Distance to-day, about twelve miles. + +Monday, 28th June, Gum Creek. There has been a little rain during the +night, and it is still coming down. As I am so far north, I regret that I +am unable to go a little further, fearing the lameness of the horses from +the stony nature of the country. I intend to follow the creek up, if it +comes from the west, or a little to the north of west, to see if I cannot +make the fall of the country to the south-west, and get on a better road +for the horses. We started on a bearing of 305 degrees, but after a mile +and a half, finding the creek wind too much to the north, we changed our +course to 287 degrees for five miles to a small flat-topped hill. Changed +our bearing again to 281 degrees for twenty-two miles to a tent hill, on +the south side of which we camped. This part of the country is very stony +and bad, with salt bush and very little grass. It has evidently been the +course of a large water at some time, and reminded me of the stony desert +of Captain Sturt. Bleak, barren, and desolate, it grows no timber, so +that we scarcely can find sufficient wood to boil our quart pot. The +rain, which poured down upon us all day, so softened the ground that the +horses could tread the stones into it, and we got along much better than +we expected. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles and a half. + +Tuesday, 29th June, South Side of Tent Hill. Started at 8.30 a.m. on a +bearing of 305 degrees. At eight miles crossed a gum creek, with +polyganum, running to the north. At twelve miles crossed another, +trending in the same direction. These creeks are wide and formed into +numerous channels. I expected to have done thirty miles to-day, but am +disappointed, for we were obliged to halt early, after having gone only +eighteen miles, as my horse was quite lame. How much do we feel the want +of another set of horse-shoes! We have, however, still got an old shoe +left, which is put on this afternoon. It had continued raining all last +night, but not heavily, and cleared off in the morning shortly after we +started. Our travelling to-day has been still very stony, over stony +rises; the stony table land that has been all along on our left is now +trending more to the south-west. The country is more open: in looking at +it from one of the rises it has the appearance of an immense plain, +studded with isolated flat-topped hills. The last eight miles is better +grassed and has more salt bush. Camped on a small creek in the stony +rises. Distance to-day, eighteen miles. + +Wednesday, 30th June, Stony Rises. We had a little rain in the former +part of the night, and a very heavy dew in the morning. Started at 9.30 +a.m., bearing 305 degrees; at five miles crossed the upper part of a gum +creek, and at twelve miles ascended a high flat-topped hill, commanding a +view of an immense stony plain, but it is so hazy that we can see nothing +beyond ten miles. From this hill we changed our course to 309 degrees to +a saddle in the next range. At four miles halted at a gum creek, with +plenty of green feed. Made a very short journey to-day in consequence of +the horses being quite lame. In addition to their want of shoes, a stiff, +tenacious brown clay adhered to the hoof, and picked up the small round +stones, which pressed on the frog of the foot. These pebbles were as +firmly packed as if they had been put in with cement, so that we had hard +work to keep the hoofs clear. Distance travelled, sixteen miles. Weather +showery. + +Thursday, 1st July, Gum Greek. The horses have had such poor food for the +last week that I shall rest them to-day. About half a mile below us there +is a large water hole a quarter of a mile long, with a number of black +ducks upon it, but they are very shy. It rained very heavily and without +intermission all last night and to-day. This creek is visited by a great +many natives. We saw them making away as we approached. + +Friday, 2nd July, Same Place. The creek came down last night: it is now a +sheet of water two hundred yards broad. Started at 8.45 a.m. over a stony +plain on a bearing of 309 degrees, to the saddle in the range. I ascended +one of the highest hills in this range, but the day was too dull to see +far. I could, however, distinguish what appeared to be a wooded country* +in the distance, from south-west to north-east. (* This "wooded country" +afterwards turned out to be sand hills, with scrub.) Observing that the +country a little more to the north was less stony, I changed our course +to a bearing of 344 degrees, over a plain thinly covered with gravelly +stones, consisting of quartz, ironstone, and a dark reddish-brown stone, +with a good deal of gypsum cropping out. The soil is of a light-brown +colour, with plenty of dry grass upon it, and very little salt bush. In +the spring time it must look beautiful. The country was so boggy from the +heavy rains, that for the sake of my horse I was obliged to stop early. +Camped at a gum creek coming from the south-west, and running a little to +the east of north. Distance to-day, eighteen miles. + +Sunday, 4th July, Same Place. Not the slightest appearance of a change. +It rained in torrents all night and all day, though at sundown it seemed +to be breaking a little. The creek came down in the forenoon, overflowed +its banks, and left us on an island before we knew what we were about. We +were obliged to seek a higher place. Not content with depriving us of our +first worley, it has now forced us to retreat to a bare hill, without any +protection from the weather. The rain has come from the north-east. + +Monday, 5th July, Same Place. The rain lasted the greater part of the +night, but became light before morning. Started at 12.30 on a bearing of +312 degrees for eleven miles to some sand hills. A fearfully hard day's +work for the poor horses over a stony plain, sinking up to their knees in +mud, until at eight miles we crossed a reedy swamp two miles in breadth, +and how many in length I know not, for it seemed all one sheet of water: +it took our horses up to their bellies. + +Tuesday, 6th July, Sand Hills. All our rations and everything we have got +being perfectly saturated with wet, I have made up my mind to stop and +put them to rights; if we neglect them it will soon be all over with us. +This was a beautiful day, not a cloud to be seen. There are a great many +natives' tracks in these sand hills, and plenty of grass. + +Wednesday, 7th July, Sand Hills. Heavy dew last night. Started on a +bearing of 312 degrees at 9 a.m. At eleven miles the sand hills cease, +and stony plain commences. The sand hills were well grassed: also the +stony plain. Dip of the country still north-east. We crossed two +watercourses--one at this side of the plain, and the other two miles +back, broad and shallow. I could see gum-trees on the latter about two +miles to the north-east as if it formed itself into a deeper channel. +Travelling very heavy. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles. + +Thursday, 8th July, Sand Hills. A very heavy dew again last night. +Started at 9 a.m. At one mile we came on yesterday's course; could see +nothing; changed the bearing to 272 degrees. At seven miles crossed a +creek running north and a little west, the water being up to our +saddle-flaps. At twelve miles the sand hills ceased, and we came upon an +elevated plain, of a light-brown soil, with fragments of stone on the +surface. At twenty-five miles, in the middle of this plain, we camped, +without wood, and in sight of a large range in the far distance to the +west. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles. + +Friday, 9th July, Large Plain. Left our camp at 8.50 a.m. on the same +bearing as yesterday, 272 degrees. At one mile and half came upon a creek +of water, seemingly permanent. Judging from the immense quantity of dry +grass that is strewn over the plain, this must be a beautiful country in +spring. The dip of the country is to the north and west. Our horses are +all very lame for want of shoes, and the boggy state of the soil to-day +has tried them severely. If the country does not become less stony, I +shall be compelled to leave some of them behind. We camped on a gum creek +about three miles to the west of the range. My only hope now of cutting +Cooper's Creek is on the other side of the range. The plain we crossed +to-day resembles those of the Cooper, also the grasses; if it is not +there, it must run to the north-west, and form the Glenelg of Captain +Grey. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles. + +Saturday, 10th July, Gum Creek, West End of Large Stony Plain. Rested the +horses to-day. This evening we were surprised to hear a dog barking* at +the grey mare; its colour was black and tan. (* It is commonly supposed +that the native dingo or wild dog does not bark. This is an error. The +dog in this instance being black and tan, was probably a hybrid. (See +below.)) + +Sunday, 11th July, Same Place. This morning the sun rose at 62 degrees. +Bearing to-day, 272 degrees, so as to round the point of range, which +seems to have a little mallee in the gullies on this side, and some trees +on the west side. Started at 8.30 a.m., and at four miles ascended the +highest point of the range. The view to the north-east is over an immense +stony plain with broken hills in the distance. To the north is also the +plain, with table-hills in the far distance. To the north-west is the +termination of the range running north-east and south-west, distant about +ten miles; about half-way between is a gum creek running to north-east. +To the west is the same range, and a number of conical hills between. +Changed our bearing to 220 degrees in order to break through the range. +This range is very stony, composed of a hard milky-white flint stone, and +white and yellow chalky substance, with a gradual descent on the other +side to the south, which is the finest salt-bush country that I have +seen, with a great quantity of grass upon it. The grey mare has been very +bad; her belly was very much swollen, but this morning she seemed better. +Towards afternoon, however, she fagged very much, which caused me to stop +so soon. I am almost afraid that I shall lose her. I shall see how she is +in the morning, and, if she is no better, I will endeavour to get her on +to some permanent water or creek running to the south. I think we have +now made the dip of the country to the south, but the mirage is so +powerful that little bushes appear like great gum-trees, which makes it +very difficult to judge what is before us; it is almost as bad as +travelling in the dark. I never saw it so bright nor so continuous as it +is now; one would think that the whole country was under water. Camped +without water. No timber as yet on this side of the range, except a few +bushes in the creek. A good deal of rain has fallen here lately, and the +vegetation is looking fresh. + +Monday, 12th July, Large Salt-Bush and Grass Plain. The mare seems a +little better this morning, and I shall be able to make a short journey. +There was a very heavy white frost during the night, and it was bitterly +cold. Not a hill to be seen either to the south-west or west--nothing but +plain. Left our camp at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing of 220 degrees; at two +miles and a half changed to 112 degrees for three miles to a small creek +running south with plenty of feed and water. We found our horses very +much done up this morning; they could scarcely travel over the stones, +which caused me to alter my course to the eastward, where I found the +travelling generally better. All the horses are now so lame that I shall +require to rest them before I can proceed. They will not walk above two +miles an hour among the stones. The stony plain seems to continue a long +way to the south-west, but the country being undulating and the mirage so +strong, I cannot say precisely. I intend to see where this creek will +lead me to, for I cannot face the stones again. Our distance to-day, five +miles and a half. + +Tuesday, 13th July, Mulga Creek. Went to the highest point on the stony +range east of us, but could only see a very short distance. There are a +number of creeks on the eastern side running into this one. The range is +low and very stony, composed of flints and pebbles of all colours. No +timber. + +Wednesday, 14th July, Same Place. During the night it became very cloudy, +and I was afraid we were going to have more rain, but it has ended in a +light shower, and cleared off this morning. I shall follow down the creek +and see what it leads to. The grey mare still seems very bad, and I must +make short journeys until she gets a little better. Started at 8.30 a.m., +bearing 180 degrees for eight miles to Large Mulga Creek, thence 192 +degrees for four miles. The country to-day is good on both sides of the +creek, a good salt-bush country with plenty of grass, but rather stony. +The gum trees are becoming a little larger on the creek, which at present +is formed into a great many channels. The timber consists of mulga and +dwarf gum, with saplings. There is plenty of water in the creek at +present, from the late rain, but I see nothing to indicate its becoming +permanent. Distance to-day, twelve miles. + +Thursday, 15th July, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9 a.m. on a +bearing of 190 degrees for two miles, thence 230 degrees for one mile and +a half, thence 250 degrees for four miles and a half, thence 286 degrees +for two miles, thence 290 degrees for one mile, thence 270 degrees for +five miles, thence 320 degrees for one mile, to camp at some mallee. The +country on both sides of the creek is good, but subject to be flooded; +the width of the plain is about fifteen miles, bounded on the south side +by bare stony rises, and on the north by scrubby rises. The creek spreads +itself all over the plain, which seems to be very extensive. It has been +excessively cold to-day: wind from the west. Distance to-day, seventeen +miles. + +Friday, 16th July, Large Plain, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9 +a.m., on a bearing of 270 degrees for nine miles. The first six miles was +a continuation of the creek and plain; it then turned to the north-west +and the sand hills commenced. At nine miles we had a good view of the +surrounding country, from the east to the north-west. To the west we +could see the range that we crossed on the 11th instant trending away to +the north-west as far as the eye could reach, apparently a sandy and +scrubby country with small patches of open ground intervening. There also +appeared to be a gum creek, about five miles west of this point. Seeing +there was no hope for anything to the west for a long distance, I changed +my course to the south on a bearing of 190 degrees to cross the stony +rise, keeping on the sand hills for the benefit of the horses' feet. At +five miles found that the sandy country swept round the stony rise, the +country still having the appearance of scrub and sand hills all round. I +altered my course to south-east to 132 degrees for fourteen miles; on +this course we have ridden over a scrubby plain of a light sandy soil, +most beautifully grassed but dry, the young feed not having sprung. We +have not seen a drop of water on the surface; the ground evidently +absorbs all that falls; the scrub is principally the mulga and hakea +bushes and acacia, with a few other small bushes, but very little salt +bush. Camped to-night without water. The grey mare appears to be getting +round again; it seems to have been an affection of the chest, and has now +fallen down into the left knee, which has become very much swollen, but +it seems to have relieved her chest; she now feeds as well as ever. +Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles. + +Saturday, 17th July, Scrub and Sandy Plain without Water. Started at 8.10 +a.m. on the same course, 132 degrees. At two miles and a half, rain +water; at seven miles crossed a stunted gum creek running towards the +south-west; at twenty-five miles came upon a little rain water. Camped. +The plain still continues with very low rises at intervals; the scrub is +much thicker and the greater part of it dead, which makes it very +difficult to travel through. The grass is not so plentiful, and it is +more sandy. The creek that we crossed at seven miles was running; it had +salt tea-tree on its banks, and seems likely to have some permanent water +either above or below. I did not examine it, because, the surrounding +country being so sandy and scrubby, it will be of little use. Distance +to-day, twenty-five miles. + +Sunday, 18th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Rain Water. Left at 9.15 a.m. on +the same bearing, 132 degrees. We saw some native worleys, and the tracks +of a number of natives having passed this place a day or two ago, going +to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty miles. Had to halt early in +consequence of grey mare being done up and unable to proceed. The first +part of the day's journey the scrub became more open and splendidly +grassed, the latter part was fearfully thick, it is composed of mulga, +dead and alive, and a few hakea and other bushes, with salt bush and +plenty of grass of two or three different sorts. We have a view of rising +ground a little to the north of our line, about from fifteen to twenty +miles distant. To-morrow I shall alter my course to strike the highest +point; it is a range, and seems to be wooded. I suppose it is the same +range that we crossed on the 11th instant. It is very cloudy, and seems +as if it will rain. Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Monday, 19th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Started at 9.15 a.m. on a bearing +of 120 degrees to the highest point of the range. A slight shower fell +early this morning; it still looks very cloudy. We could only accomplish +ten miles to-day in consequence of the grey mare being unable to proceed +farther; if I can get her on to permanent water I shall leave her; she +only keeps me back, and endangers the other horses. I shall be very sorry +to do so, for she is a great favourite. We are now camped at a place +where there are five or six small watercourses; if we can find water I +shall give her until to-morrow to rest. The country that we have come +over to-day is most splendidly grassed, of a red light sandy soil, but +good; the mulga bushes in some places grow thick, and a great many are +very tall. Forster caught an opossum--the first that we have seen; we +intend making a dinner from him to-day. This is the first game we have +been able to secure, except two small ducks we had at the beginning of +our journey. We have found water a little way down the valley, which I +think will become a large creek further to the south-west. We are again +in the country of the kangaroos. Distance to-day, ten miles. + +Tuesday, 20th July, Grassy Valley. We had another shower this morning. I +must try and make the hills to-day if I can. Started at 10.10 a.m. on the +same bearing as yesterday, 120 degrees, and at four miles ascended the +peak on the range. I see around me a scrubby country, with open patches, +and here and there in the far distance what appear to be belts of mulga. +Four miles beyond this hill we halted at some rain water. We have seen +three or four kangaroos to-day; they were the red sort with white +breasts. Distance travelled, eight miles. + +Wednesday 21st July, Grass and Salt-Bush Plains. Left the camp at 9 a.m. +on a bearing of 97 degrees. Camped at some rain water in a clay-pan. At +twelve miles there is low rising ground running north-west and +south-east, which divides the two plains; there are no creeks, but the +dip of the country is to the south-west. This is as fine a salt-bush and +grass country as I have seen. It is a pity there is no permanent water. +Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Thursday, 22nd July, Open, Good Country. Started at 9 a.m. on the same +course as yesterday, 97 degrees. At ten miles crossed a small watercourse +running to the south-south-west; at sixteen miles came through the saddle +of a low range running north-west and south-east composed of limestone; +it forms one of the boundaries of a large plain, which seems well adapted +for pastoral purposes; it is well grassed, with salt bush, although we +could find no permanent water. I think I can see a gum creek to the east +of us, but the mirage is so powerful that I am not quite certain. +Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Friday, 23rd July, Large East Plain. Started at 9.10 a.m. on a bearing of +82 degrees, and at four miles ascended an isolated hill, but can see +nothing of the gum creek. Changed our course to 122 degrees, and at four +miles crossed a mulga creek running to the east. Camped on the south-east +side of a flat-topped hill, which, although the highest I have yet seen, +enabled me to see nothing but the range to the north-east, and a high +conical hill about ten miles south-west, connected with the ranges. The +country is without timber except a few mulga bushes at intervals. +Distance to-day, twenty-one miles. + +Saturday, 24th July, South-east Side of Flat-topped Hill. Left at 8.10 +a.m. on the same course, 122 degrees, over an undulating stony plain, +with narrow sand hills at intervals, and a number of lagoons containing +rain water, where we camped. I intend to move to-morrow to another large +lagoon that we have seen from a small rise, and rest the horses there; +they have had a very severe day of it, and feel the want of shoes very +much. The stones are mostly white quartz and ironstone, small and +water-washed. I conclude they have come from the hills that are to the +south-west. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles. + +Sunday, 25th July, A Lagoon of Rain Water. Finding that we have sand +hills to cross, and being anxious to meet with the gum creek that the +blacks have talked about, I have determined to proceed to-day, but if I +do not find it on this course I shall turn to the south. Started at eight +a.m. on a bearing of 122 degrees. At five miles, one mile to the south is +a large reedy swamp. At fourteen miles changed the bearing to 135 degrees +to the head of a swamp, two miles and a half, found it dry, a large +clay-pan about three miles in circumference. I am obliged to halt, the +horses are very tired and want rest; and there being plenty of beautiful +green feed about, I have halted without water. Our journey has been +through a very thick mulga scrub and sand hills, very heavy travelling. +The trees in the scrub are of a different description to any that I have +seen; they grow high and very crooked, without branches until near the +top, and with a rough, ragged bark; seven or eight seem to spring from +one root. The wood is very tough and heavy, and burns a long time, giving +out a glowing heat. The leaves resemble the mulga, but are of a darker +colour and smaller size. The native name is Moratchee. Shot a wallaby, +and had him for dinner. They are very wild, no getting within shot of +them, which is unfortunate, as our provisions are getting rather short. +From the number of native tracks about, this would seem to be their +season for hunting in the sand hills, which accounts for everything being +so wild. We saw five turkeys yesterday, but could not get within shot of +them. All the water seems to drain into the reedy swamp and clay-pans. I +shall go no further to the east on this course, for I can see no +inducement. I shall go south to-morrow, and see what that produces; if I +cross no large creek within forty-five miles in that direction, I shall +then direct my course for the north-west of Fowler's Bay to see what is +there. Distance to-day, sixteen miles. + +Monday, 27th July, Sand Hills and Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 9.20 a.m. +on a southerly course, 182 degrees. At thirteen miles we camped at some +rain water to give the horses a little rest. We have come through a very +thick scrub of mulga, with broken sand hills and a few low rises of lime +and ironstone. We have seen two or three pines for the first time, and a +few black oaks. No appearance of a change of country. From a high sand +ridge I could see a long way to the north-east, seemingly all a dense +scrub. The grey mare is unwell again. Distance to-day, thirteen miles. + +Tuesday, 27th July, Sandy Undulations. Started at 9 a.m. on the same +bearing as yesterday, 182 degrees. At twenty-one miles changed our course +to 235 degrees to some gum-trees. The first part of our journey the scrub +became lower and more open, with limestone and sand rises at intervals, +and with a good deal of grass in places. The last ten miles the mulga +scrub was so dense that it was with difficulty we managed to get through. +We have seen no water on this day's route, except that in the lagoon we +are now camped at, and which is as salt as the sea. There is another +large lagoon about a mile to the westward of us, which I will examine +to-morrow to see if it gives rise to any creek. Distance to-day, +twenty-two miles. + +Wednesday, 28th July, Sand Hills. Started at 9 a.m. on a bearing of 283 +degrees for two miles to examine the other lagoon, which is about three +miles long, water salt. Changed our course to 182 degrees for ten miles +to a large lake crossing our course. Changed our bearing to 240 degrees, +and at four miles changed to 270 degrees, crossing some horse-tracks +going towards the large lake. This seems to be a country of salt lagoons, +for we passed three, and have seen a great many more. The large one that +crossed our south course is evidently the head of Lake Gairdner. I could +see it winding away in that direction. We have now got upon a plain +slightly undulating with thick scrub and the unceasing mulga, intermixed +with a few black oaks; no signs of water, no creeks. I intend to proceed +north of west to intersect any creek or country that may come from the +good country that we found on our south-east course, and the land of +kangaroos; there is no hope of anything here. Camped without water. +Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Thursday, 29th July, Mulga Plain, West of Lake Gairdner. Our course +to-day is 310 degrees. Left our camp at 8.30, and accomplished twenty +miles of the same scrubby plain, slightly undulating. Plenty of grass, +but no water. Same description of country as on the 18th instant. + +Friday, 30th July, Mulga Plain. Started at 7.35 on same course, 310 +degrees. The scrub is so dense that I cannot see above one hundred yards +ahead, and sometimes not that. During the night some swans and two ducks +flew over, apparently from Lake Gairdner, and going in our direction. At +ten miles, having met with some rain water, we halted, for the horses had +been three nights without it. I have given them the rest of the day to +drink their fill. This seems to be a continuation of the stony plain we +crossed on our south-eastern line. The country appears open to the south, +but no sign of any permanent water. Forster bakes the last of our flour +this afternoon--the last of our provisions. Distance to-day, ten miles. + +Saturday, 31st July, South Stony Plain. Left at 8.30 on the same bearing, +310 degrees. At ten miles we ascended a low range running north and +south. We did not see a drop of water all day. Our course was over a +gradually rising plain, well grassed at intervals, with plenty of salt +bush, and with stone on the surface, composed of quartz, ironstone, and +the hard white flinty stone so frequently met with. The scrub has nearly +ceased. The dip of the country is south. During the night we again heard +a dog barking at one of the horses, and during the day we saw two +kangaroos. At ten miles we crossed a valley, through which water has been +flowing to the south-south-west. Camped without water. Distance to-day, +fifteen miles. + +Sunday, 1st August, Stony Plain Valley. Left at 8.45 on the same bearing, +310 degrees. My reason for keeping this bearing is that there seems to +have been very little rain to the south of us, and I am unwilling to get +too far away from where it has fallen, in case I have to put to my former +line for it. If I should meet with it to-day I shall turn south-west or +west. This country is very dry, and absorbs all that falls. It is of a +bright red soil, mixed with sand and, in some places, lime. At ten miles +I am obliged to stop, in consequence of the grey mare being quite done +up; the stones play the mischief with her. I have great doubts of her +living through the journey. Distance to-day, ten miles. + +Monday, 2nd August, Salt Bush--a Stony Plain. We had a little rain during +the night. Started at 9 on a bearing of 315 degrees. At three miles +changed our course to 230 degrees. The last three miles of this day's +journey were through rather a thick scrub, but well grassed, with few +stones. The former part was through a very well-grassed country, with a +little salt bush and low scrub. Saw a number of kangaroos, but they were +too wild to get near them. Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Tuesday, 3rd August, Good Country. It has rained during the whole night, +and is likely to do so to-day. Started at 9, on the same course as +yesterday, 230 degrees. The first portion of our journey was over six +miles of splendid alluvial country, covered with grass--partly spear +grass--with a little salt bush intermixed with it, also a few mulga +bushes at intervals; no other timber. It is a most beautiful open piece +of country, and looks much better than the Adelaide plains did at the +commencement of the colony. Four miles further it was not so good; the +soil became a little lighter, with more salt bush, and a little scrub. +The last eleven miles the soil is good, with grass and salt bush in +abundance, but much thicker with mulga and other low scrubs. It seems to +be a continuation of the same scrub that we passed over on the 19th +ultimo, and I observe that the ants build their habitations in the same +style as they did there. They are about one foot in diameter at the base, +and formed in the shape of a cone, and are supported by the dead root of +a mulga. Others, however, stand from eighteen inches to three feet in +height, built of clay, and on the surface. The kangaroo and emu inhabit +the country. We have also found a number of places where the natives have +been encamped. They seem to be numerous, judging from the number of +places where they have had their fires; but we have not seen any of them. +We have had it raining nearly all day, and it still looks bad. Our black +fellow left us during the night; he seemed to be very much frightened of +the other natives. He knows nothing of the country, and if he follows our +tracks back, I don't envy him his walk. He was of very little use to us, +and I wish I had sent him off before, but I thought he might be useful in +conversing with the other natives when we should meet them. He was of no +other use than for tracking and assisting in getting the horses in the +morning, for I have given them every advantage--they have been seldom +hobbled. There are three small valleys on our line in which water seems +to have run at some former period. We have crossed no course of rocks of +any description since our northern line; from which I am of opinion that +the drainage is underneath, so that there ought to be numerous springs +near the sea-coast. Camped without water. Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Wednesday, 4th August, Scrubby Good Country. Started at 8 on the same +bearing as yesterday, 230 degrees. At thirteen miles ascended a low red +granite range in which there is water. Changed our bearing to 209 degrees +to a hill on the opposite range; when I returned I found the grey mare so +done up that she is unable to proceed. I should not like to leave her, +but I cannot delay longer with her. For about half a mile under the range +where we are now camped is beautiful feed up to the horses' knees. Six +cockatoos passed over to another range. We have also found a small +running stream where I shall leave the mare to-morrow; I will make an +attempt to regain her as I return. + +Thursday, 5th August, Granite Range. Started at 8 on the same bearing for +the hill on the opposite range. At six miles another low granite range +with water, where we left the mare. At twelve miles went to the highest +point of the range composed of hard flinty quartz and ironstone. We had a +good view of the surrounding country, which was generally low and +undulating, with salt lakes crossing at about ten miles. This region +appears to be dotted with the lagoons from nearly the foot of the range. +Changed our bearing to 268 degrees for nine miles. Camped under a range +of low hills with good feed for the horses. On our west course we crossed +a plain of red light soil, with abundance of grass and a little salt bush +with a very thick scrub close to the range, but as we advanced it became +more open, and the scrub lower. Shot a wallaby and had him for supper. +Distance to-day, twenty-five miles. + +Friday, 6th August, Under the Low Range. Left at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing +of 239 degrees to avoid the stones on the hills. At five miles and a half +got some rain water; at nine miles changed our bearing to 255 degrees; at +fifteen miles camped among the sand hills. Shot another wallaby. The +timber about here is very large, consisting of black oaks, mallee, mulga, +the native peach, the nut, and numerous low scrubs. The grass is good in +some places. The mountain that I am steering for is further off than I +anticipated; we got sight of it a short time before we halted; it seems +to be very high, and I expect something good will be the result of our +visit to it to-morrow. The hills that we were camped under last night are +composed of quartz, and are connected with the range that we were on +running to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty six miles. + +Saturday, 7th August, Sand Hills going to the High Mount. Left at 8.30 +a.m. on the same bearing, 255 degrees, for eighteen miles to the foot of +the mountain. At fifteen miles camped under the highest point, which is +composed of quartz rock. The journey to-day has been through horrid dense +scrub and heavy sand hills, to the foot of the hill, which I have named +Mount Finke. It is as high as Mount Arden; I have not light to get on the +top of it to-night. Very little rain has fallen here, and we have been +without water for the last two nights: the country is of such a light +sandy soil that it will not retain it. I almost give up hopes of a good +country; this is very disheartening after all that I have done to find +it. If I see nothing from the top of the mount to-morrow, I must turn +down to Fowler's Bay for water for the horses. As I could not remain +quiet, I got on one of the lower spurs of Mount Finke to see what was +before me. The prospect is gloomy in the extreme! I could see a long +distance, but nothing met the eye save A DENSE SCRUB AS BLACK AND DISMAL +AS MIDNIGHT. On my return I found that Forster had succeeded in finding +water by digging in the creek. Distance to-day, twenty miles. + +Sunday, 8th August, Mount Finke. At dawn of day I ascended the mountain, +but was unable to see much more than I did last night, in consequence of +there being a mist all round. No high rising ground is to be seen in any +direction. A FEARFUL COUNTRY. Left the mount at 9.30 a.m. on a bearing of +270 degrees. At eighteen miles halted to give the horses some food, as +they were obliged to be tied up all last night, there not being any feed +for them, and the scrub very dense. The horse Blower seems to be very +unwell; he has lain down twice this morning, and an hour's rest will do +him good. After leaving the mount we have a thick mallee and mulga scrub +to go through with spinifex. At ten miles changed our bearing to 190 +degrees; at eight miles camped. The whole of our journey to day has been +through a dreadful desert of sand hills and spinifex. In the last eight +miles we have not seen a mouthful for the horses to eat and not a drop of +water; it is even WORSE than Captain Sturt's desert, where there was a +little salt bush; but here there is not a vestige. Distance to-day, +twenty-five miles. + +Monday, 9th August, Desert. Started at 8.30 on the same bearing, 190 +degrees. At five miles there is a change in the country; the spinifex has +suddenly ceased and low scrub taken its place; the sand ridges are spread +and the valley wider. At seven miles discovered some rock water in the +middle of a valley with plenty of salt bush and green grass, first rate +for the horses, which have had nothing to eat for two nights. I shall +give them the rest of the day to recover. They were beginning to be very +much done up, and it was with difficulty we could get them to face the +spinifex. Shot a pigeon and had him for supper. We have seen where a +horse has been a long time ago. Distance to-day, seven miles. + +Tuesday, 10th August, Rock Water. Started at 8.30 on a bearing of 180 +degrees. Camped at eighteen miles without water, and a very little food +for the horses, only a little salt bush. The appearance of a change from +the dreary desert lasted only for about one mile from where we camped +last night; it then became even worse than before--the sand hills higher, +steeper and closer together, the spinifex thicker and higher; we got the +horses through it with difficulty. It rained all last night and all day. +There is some rising ground to the west. Distance to-day, eighteen miles. + +Wednesday, 11th August, Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 8 on the same +bearing, 180 degrees. At 9 obliged to halt for the remainder of the day, +the horses being too tired to proceed further; the fearful sand hills are +very trying for them. To-day's few miles have been through the same +DREARY, DREADFUL, DISMAL DESERT of heavy sand hills and spinifex with +mallee very dense, scarcely a mouthful for the horses to eat. When will +it have an end? We again saw the rising ground a little to the north of +west of us; I should have gone and examined it, but our small remaining +quantity of provisions being nearly exhausted, I could not venture; my +object now being to make Fowler's Bay for water for our horses, and +thence to Streaky Bay, to endeavour to get some provisions there to carry +us home. We have now travelled considerably upwards of a thousand miles, +and in that journey my horses have had only four clear days to +themselves; they have done most excellently well. No water. + +Thursday, 12th August. Dense Scrub. Left at 8.25 on a bearing of 165 +degrees. Camped at ten miles; the horses done up. The same dreary desert. +No water. + +Friday, 13th August. Dense Scrub. The horses look very bad this morning. +I hope we shall be able to make the sea-coast to-day. Started at 8.30 on +the same bearing, 165 degrees, but was unable to get more than ten miles +out of the horses; Bonney is nearly done up, and there is no water for +the poor animals. I hope I shall not be obliged to leave the poor old +horse behind, but I very much fear that I shall have to do so if nothing +turns up to-morrow. The country is still the same. This is dreadful work! + +Saturday, 14th August, Dense Scrub. Started at 8.15 on the same bearing, +165 degrees. At ten miles came upon some green feed for the horses, and +gave them the benefit of it for the rest of the day. Bonney still very +bad. For the last two miles we have had no sand hills, but very dense +mallee and tea-tree, with a light sandy soil with a little limestone, +also salt bush and pig-face in abundance. No water. + +Sunday, 15th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 8.45 on same bearing, +165 degrees. At two miles and a half changed our course to 225 degrees, +having found some fresh horse-tracks; at seven miles camped for the +remainder of the day to recruit the horses, having come upon some new +green grass. Distance actually travelled, fifteen miles. + +Monday, 16th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 9 on a course of 205 +degrees. Twelve miles to Miller's Water. I intended to have given the +horses two days' rest here, but there is not sufficient water; there are +only three holes in the limestone rock, and the thirsty animals have +nearly drunk it all: there will not be enough for them in the morning. +The country that we have come through yesterday and to-day resembles the +scrub between Franklin Harbour and Port Lincoln--mallee with grassy +plains occasionally--only the mallee is larger, and the plains are met +with at shorter intervals, more numerous and of larger extent. The soil +is good but light, being produced by decomposed limestone, of which the +low range to the north-west is composed. I am unable to go to Fowler's +Bay as I intended; our provisions are exhausted, and the horses unable to +do the journey. I must now shape my course for Streaky Bay to get +something to eat. + +Tuesday, 17th August, Miller's Water. Watered our horses from a +waterproof with a quart pot. Started at 9.15, our course 160 degrees, six +miles to Bectimah Gaip. For the first three miles the grassy plains are +very good, and seem to run a considerable distance between belts of large +mallee, in some places wider than in others, and seem to be connected by +small gaips; I think water could be easily obtained by digging. The last +three miles to the coast is very dense small mallee. Actual distance, +twelve miles. I intend to give the horses a rest to-morrow. I regret +exceedingly that I was unable to make Fowler's Bay. It is with difficulty +that I have been able to save Bonney; he is still very weak and unable to +do a day's journey; we can scarcely get him to do the short journeys we +have been doing lately. For upwards of a month we have been existing upon +two pounds and a half of flour cake daily, without animal food. Since we +commenced the journey, all the animal food we have been able to obtain +has been four wallabies, one opossum, one small duck, one pigeon, and +latterly a few kangaroo mice, which were very welcome; we were anxious to +find more, but we soon got out of their country. + +These kangaroo mice are elegant little animals, about four inches in +length, and resemble the kangaroo in shape, with a long tail terminating +with a sort of brush. Their habitations are of a conical form, built with +twigs and rotten wood, about six feet in diameter at the base, and rising +to a height of three or four feet. When the natives discover one of these +nests they surround it, treading firmly round the base in order to secure +any outlet; they then remove the top of the cone, and, as the mice +endeavour to escape, they kill them with the waddies which they use with +such unfailing skill. When the nest is found by only a few natives, they +set fire to the top of the cone, and thus secure the little animals with +ease. For the last month we have been reduced to one meal a-day, and that +a very small one, which has exhausted us both very much and made us +almost incapable of exertion. We have now only TWO meals left to take us +to Streaky Bay, which is distant from this place ONE HUNDRED MILES. We +have been forced to boil the tops of the pigface, to satisfy the wants of +nature. Being short of water, we boiled them in their own juice. To a +hungry man they were very palatable, and, had they been boiled in fresh +water, would have made a good vegetable. Yesterday we obtained a few +sow-thistles, which we boiled, and found to be very good. + +Wednesday, 18th August, Bectimah Gaip. Rested the horses and obtained a +few shell-fish from the beach: there are very few, which was a +disappointment to us. + +Thursday, 19th August, Bectimah Gaip. Started at 8 a.m. for Streaky Bay. +I managed to get thirty miles to-day, which is a great help. I only hope +that Mr. Gibson is at Streaky Bay, so that we may be able to get +something to eat; we must endure three days' more starving before we +shall be able to reach there. + +Friday, 20th August, Smoky Bay. Started at 7.15. Mallee scrub in some +places very dense, in others open, with good grassy plains at intervals, +in which I think water could be had by digging; very few birds about, and +those small. At twenty-five miles we got some rock water. Distance +to-day, thirty-five miles. + +Saturday, 21st August, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.30 on a +south-easterly course. Got a little water in the limestone rock for our +horses. Camped on the shore at Streaky Bay at sundown. The last sixteen +miles were through very dense scrub; the former part through scrub with +good grassy plains at intervals. Distance, thirty-eight miles. + +Sunday, 22nd August, On the Shore at Streaky Bay. Started at 11 a.m. to +make Mr. Gibson's station. The horses did not arrive until 10.30, as they +had gone back on their tracks of yesterday. During the time Forster was +after them, I managed to shoot a crow, and cooked him in the ashes. We +had him for breakfast--the first food we have had for the last three +days; it was very agreeable to taste and stomach, for we were beginning +to feel the cravings of nature rather severely. I hope Mr. Gibson will be +at the Depot; it will be a fine trouble if he is not, and we have to +travel two hundred and forty miles on the chance of shooting something. +Twenty-four miles to Mr. Gibson's station, where we were received and +treated with great kindness, for which we were very thankful. We enjoyed +a good supper, which, after three days' fasting, as may readily be +imagined, was quite a treat. + +Monday, 23rd August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Both Forster and myself felt +very unwell, especially Forster, who is very bad; the sudden change from +a state of starvation to plenty of good and wholesome food has been the +cause. I am suffering chiefly from weakness and a very severe pain +between the shoulder-blades, which I have felt for some weeks back. It is +a dreadful pain, and nearly incapacitated me from sitting in the saddle +all day yesterday; I thought I should not have been able to reach here, I +was so very bad with it. I have been obliged to send down to the next +station, about thirty miles distant, to try and get some horseshoes. I +must rest here a few days to recover. + +Tuesday, 24th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Forster appears to be a +little better this morning, but very weak; I also feel a little better +this morning from yesterday's rest. + +Wednesday, 25th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have succeeded in getting +some shoes for the horses from Mr. Miller, to whom I am deeply indebted +for his kindness in allowing me to have them. + +Thursday, 26th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Shoeing the horses and +preparing for a start at the beginning of next week. + +Friday, 27th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. At the same thing. Improving +in health and strength. + +Saturday, 28th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have been very unwell all +night. + +Sunday, 29th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Still very ill; unable to do +anything. + +Monday, 30th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. The same. + +Tuesday, 31st August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I had a dreadful night of it; +seized with cramp in the stomach, and thought I should never see morning; +no medicine to relieve me. I intended to have started to-day, but am +quite unable to do so. + +Wednesday, 1st September, Mr. Gibson's Station. Can stay no longer; made +a start to-day, and got as far as one of Mr. Gibson's out-stations, +twenty-five miles. Quite done up. + +Thursday, 2nd September, One of Mr. Gibson's Out-Stations. Raining this +morning; unable to proceed. Very unwell. + +Friday, 3rd September, Same Place. Feel better this morning. Started at +8.30 for Parla. I am unable to make any attempt to recover the grey mare. +Made Parla at 1 p.m.; camped at ten miles beyond. Distance to-day, +twenty-five miles. + +Saturday, 4th September, Ten Miles beyond Parla. Started at 8.15 on an +east bearing twenty-three miles to Rock Water. Camped. Very poor country. +The granite range that Mr. Hack has laid down on his chart, I cannot +find. I have come east from Parla, and ought to have crossed about the +middle of it. + +Sunday, 5th September, Rock Water. I shall shape my course for the +Freeling range, and see what that is made of. Started at 7.30 on a +bearing of 84 degrees twenty-two miles. Rock water with plenty of grass. +Gave the horses the rest of the day. + +Monday, 6th September, South of Mount Sturt. Started at 8.15 on a bearing +of 84 degrees for twenty-five miles. Changed the bearing to 60 degrees +for three miles to a fine plain covered with grass. Halted. No water. +There are some high hills to the east-north-east, to which I have now +changed my course, and which I conclude to be the Freeling range. Our +journey to-day has been through very scrubby and sandy country, +especially the last fifteen miles. At six miles south there is a high +table-topped hill, which I think is granite. I intended going down to it, +but the country, so far as I could see, was apparently not good, and, +having crossed the tracks of some horses going towards it, and being very +unwell myself, I thought it would be useless my going. Distance to-day, +thirty-eight miles. No water. + +Tuesday, 7th September, Freeling Range. Started for the range at 8 on a +bearing of 60 degrees. At eleven miles ascended the south-west hill of +Freeling range, Mount Sturt bearing 266 degrees. Changed the bearing to +96 degrees to a stony hill of granite. Found a little water, and halted +for the remainder of the day. Distance, fifteen miles. + +Wednesday, 8th September, Freeling Range. Started at 7.30 for Separation +Camp, bearing 72 degrees. Halted at thirty-three miles. The first +twenty-five miles were mallee scrub with patches of grass; the last eight +miles were over elevated table land, salt bush, and a little grass with a +few patches of scrub, the soil being red, with a few fragments of quartz +and ironstone on the surface. No water. + +Thursday, 9th September, Salt-Bush Country. Started at 9.15 on the same +bearing, 72 degrees, fourteen miles; changed to 160 degrees (1.30 p.m.) +two miles and a half; thence 80 degrees three miles to a small creek, +where we can obtain water by digging in the sand. Camped. Distance +to-day, twenty miles. Did not see Separation Camp; it is wrongly placed +on the map. + +Friday, 10th September, Small Creek. Started at 9 on a bearing of 110 +degrees for Cooroona; at seventeen miles made Cooroona. Camped fifteen +miles beyond. + +Saturday, 11th September. Arrived at Mr. Thompson's station, Mount Arden. + +I cannot conclude this narrative of my first journey, without +acknowledging that it was with the advice and assistance of my friend Mr. +Finke SOLELY, that I undertook this exploration of the country. I +therefore look upon him as the original pioneer (if I may be allowed so +to express myself) of all my subsequent expeditions, in which our friend +Mr. Chambers afterwards joined. + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE +TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859. + +Saturday, 2nd April, 1859. Started from Mr. Glen's for St. A'Becket's +Pool, where we camped. This water hole is a large one, and likely to last +a long time. The country around is good--a large salt bush and grassy +plain, with upwards of 300 cattle feeding upon it. Found the native +cucumber growing. + +Sunday, 3rd April. Shortly after sunrise started from St. A'Becket's +Pool, over low sand hills with large valleys between, well grassed, as +described by Mr. Parry. Camped about two miles to the north-east of it, +in a polyganum and grassy valley. + +Monday, 4th April. The saddles injuring our horses' backs, we must stop +and repair them. Herrgott and I rode to Shamrock Pool. There is still +water there. It may last about a month, but it is not permanent. + +Tuesday, 5th April. The horses could not be found before noon. One of +them has lost a shoe, which will require to be put on. It is too late to +start to-day for St. Francis' Ponds, the distance being thirty-two miles, +and no water between. I deem it advisable to remain until to-morrow. + +Wednesday, 6th April. Started on a bearing of 330 degrees, and at six +miles came upon a gum creek, with abundance of water, which I believe is +permanent. For fifty yards on each side of the creek there is a great +quantity of polyganum and other water-bushes. On the water there are a +great many ducks, cranes, and water-hens. The water hole is upwards of +three-quarters of a mile long; at the broadest place it is fifty yards in +breadth. There are two trees marked "J.G. and W. Latitude, 30 degrees 4 +minutes 1 second." At one mile struck Mr. Parry's tracks; had a view of +the country on the bearing that I intended to steer; saw that it would +lead me into a very rough country, therefore followed his tracks to where +he had camped. Camped south of Mount Delusion, without water. I do not +doubt that there is water further down the creek to the eastward. + +Thursday, 7th April. Went to the top of Mount Delusion and took bearings. +Had some difficulty in finding St. Francis' Ponds. Towards sunset we +found them, and, to our great disappointment, quite dry; all the water +had disappeared, except a little in one of the creeks, which was salter +than the sea, and of no use to us. There seems to have been no rain here +this season; I have searched the country all round, but can see no sign +of water. I must return to-morrow morning to the creek that I passed +yesterday. The horses have now been two nights without water; they appear +to feel it very much. + +Friday, 8th April. Started back on a straight line, 6.40, for the gum +creek, and arrived at 1.40 p.m., the horses being so much done up that I +must give them two days' rest. I expect they will endure it better next +time; they now know what it is to be without. In our course we crossed +the middle of Mr. Parry's dry lake. It can be crossed at any time, for +there are large courses of slate running through it in a north and south +direction, level with the bed of the lake. The country around St. +Francis' Ponds is as Mr. Parry describes it, with the exception of the +water, which is gone. There is a great deal of Cooper's Creek grass +growing in places. It is my intention to start with one man (as soon as +the horses recover), and endeavour to find water nearer Mount North-west +range. If I can find water east or west of St. Francis I shall then be +able to make the Finniss Spring. + +Saturday, 9th April. Resting the horses. + +Sunday, 10th April. I intended to have gone to the north to-day to search +for water, but I am so unwell from the effects of the water of this creek +that I am unable to do so. I have been very ill all yesterday and all +night, but I hope I shall be right to-morrow. + +Monday, 11th April. I am unable to go and search for water, being too +weak and not able to ride. I have sent Herrgott and Muller to find St. +Stephen's Ponds, and see if there is water; they are to return by the +foot of the range and endeavour to find water there also. I have been +very ill indeed during the night; I have had no sleep for the last two +nights, and I am so weak that I am scarcely able to move. + +Tuesday, 12th April. Feel a little better this morning, but still very +unwell. + +Wednesday, 13th April. I feel a good deal better. I hope by to-morrow I +shall be all right again. Herrgott did not return until noon to-day. He +reports that there is no water in St. Stephen's Ponds, which I expected; +but he also states that he has found a batch of springs three miles on +this side of the ponds, with abundance of water. They are twelve in +number. I shall go to-morrow with the party to them. I am very glad he +has found them. There will now be no difficulty in taking stock to +Chambers Creek. From this camp to the springs will be the longest journey +to be encountered in a season like this, in which so little rain has +fallen. After rain has fallen there will be no difficulty at all. The +native cucumber grows about here. + +Thursday, 14th April. Started at 8.10. The country travelled over was +fine salt-bush country, but there was no water on our course, although we +disturbed numerous pigeons and other birds. There are three table-topped +hills to the east of the end of our north line; I think they are those +within a short distance of which Major Warburton mentions that he found +water. It would take me too much to the east of my course to examine them +at present. I should have gone that way if Herrgott had not found those +twelve springs, which we hope to make early to-morrow morning, and then +proceed to the Finniss Springs. Camped on the east side of Decoy Hill, +without water. + +Friday, 15th April, East Side of Decoy Hill. At daybreak despatched +Campbell for the horses. At 7.30 he returned with only five, and said +that he found them on the track, going back for the water from which we +have come, and that the others had left the tracks and gone west towards +the hills. I immediately despatched Muller on horseback to track and +bring them back, and I sent the others by Herrgott to get water at the +springs. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. They must have gone back. +If they have, it will be the middle of the night before Muller can be +here. It is vexing to be delayed thus with the brutes. + +Saturday, 16th April, Same Place. Muller and the horses have not yet +come. I must go to the top of Decoy Hill to take some bearings. At 9.30 +returned to the camp, and found Muller had just returned, but no horses; +he had followed upon their tracks until they crossed a stony hill, where +he lost them, and, on purpose to find them again, he tied the mare to a +bush; she broke loose, and would not allow him to catch her until she got +to the water. It was then sundown; he remained there during the greater +part of the night to see if the others would come in: they did not, and +he therefore came up to inform me of what had occurred. He was without +fire, blankets, or anything to eat. I did not pity him; he ought to have +been more careful. I had several times warned him not to leave the mare +insecurely tied, or she would be off. I gave him a fresh horse, and sent +him and Campbell off to follow them up to wherever they go, and not to +come back without them. It is most dreadfully annoying to be kept back in +this manner, all through the carelessness of one man: he must have been +quite close to them when the mare got away. They were short hobbled, and +I had looked at them at half-past two in the morning, to see if they were +all right, and found them feeding quietly, so that they could not have +gone far. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. I feel much better +to-day. + +Sunday, 17th April, Same Place. Still neither horses nor men. At 1.30 +they arrived; my men had gone over to the range, and had searched every +creek, but without success. When found, the runaway animals were standing +on a rise looking very miserable and at a loss what to do; they had +skirted the hill as far down as Mount Delusion. The men took them to the +last water, remained there through the night, and left for this place +this morning. I will give them an hour's rest, and go to the springs +to-night. Arrived at the springs at sundown; they are about nine miles +from Decoy Hill. + +Monday, 18th April, Same Place. Resting horses. I went to the top of +Mount Attraction, accompanied by Herrgott, to see what appearance the +country had to the north of west. I observed a high red table-topped hill +bearing 276 degrees from this point, for which I started in search of +water. I had a good view of the country all round; it seems very low to +the westward with low ranges and valleys between; plenty of salt bush and +grass. There is copper with the ironstone on the top of Mount Attraction; +native copper is adhering to the sides of the large pieces of ironstone. +No water. Changed our course to north one mile and a half, thence to +north-east five miles, thence to the springs, but could neither find +water nor Major Warburton's tracks. To-day's journey forty-five miles. +Arrived at the springs after dark. + +Tuesday, 19th April, Springs. To the south of our tracks yesterday there +was the appearance of a gum creek, and I think it advisable to send +Herrgott to-day to examine it for water. It would be a great advantage +for stock going to the new country. Seen from a little distance these +springs, at which we are camped, resemble a salt lagoon covered with +salt, which however is not the case; it is the white quartz which gives +them that appearance. There are seven small hillocks from which flow the +springs; their height above the plain is about eight feet, and they are +surrounded with a cake of saltpetre, but the water is very good indeed, +and there is an unlimited supply. Herrgott has taken a sketch of them. He +has returned from examining the gum creek, but can find no water. I must +push on to-morrow for Finniss Springs, and trust to find water on the +way. + +Wednesday, 20th April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 on a bearing of 275 +degrees over a stony, undulating country with plenty of grass and salt +bush, but no water. At twenty miles we saw a smoke raised by the blacks +to the south of our line, under the range. Camped at 5.15 under a low +range about thirty feet high and very perpendicular, running nearly +north-east and south-west. Distance to-day, thirty-three miles. + +Thursday, 21st April. Started at daybreak this morning. Same course. Cut +Major Warburton's tracks at two miles, and changed to his course, 252 +degrees. At one mile, saw Finniss Springs a mile and a half to the south +of us; went down to them and camped. There is an immense quantity of +water flowing from them. I shall raise a large cone of stones upon the +hill, which is very prominent and can be seen from a long distance. + +Friday, 22nd April, Finniss Springs. Went to the top of Hermit Hill, +whence I obtained a very extensive view of Lake Torrens from north-west +to north-east. Mount Hermit is surrounded by low hills, and in the far +distance there seems to be rising ground. To the south are broken hills, +the termination of the Mount North-west range. I shall examine that part +of the country to-morrow. Between this and the lake (Eyre) to the north +the country is very rough--broken cliffs, with sand; the good country +does not extend more than three miles. The springs are very numerous all +round this mount, and seem to drain into the lake; they give out an +immense quantity of water, and there are many streams of water running +from them. The ground is covered round about the springs with a cake of +soda and saltpetre. I intended to have moved on to Gregory Creek this +afternoon, but took the precaution to send my stockman to see in what +state the water was. He reports the water in the creek to be quite salt, +and many of the small fish dead; he also found some very perfect fossil +shells, the mussel and oyster; they have now become a solid limestone; +they were found in a large circular piece of limestone. + +Saturday, 23rd April, Finniss Springs. Started at 8 a.m. with Herrgott to +examine the country south of this. Between this and the range the land is +good in places. It is a little rotten and stony, but the range is a +beautiful grass country to the very top. In the creeks the grass and +other plants are growing luxuriantly, but we could find no water. I was +unable to prosecute the search as far as I wished, in consequence of my +horse having lost a shoe and becoming quite lame, which forced me to +return to the camp, where we arrived at 9 p.m. The view from a high +conical hill of white granite with black spots at the north-west point of +the range, is very extensive, except to the south, which is limited. We +saw smoke in one of the creeks to the east; but as I was anxious to +examine the creek to the south-west, which we saw from the top of the +conical hill, I did not go to where the smoke was rising, thinking that +the blacks might only be hunting. I therefore crossed the hills to the +creek over a good feeding country, timbered with box and gum-trees. We +expected to find water in it, from the great number of birds of all +descriptions that were flying about; we followed it down, but were +unsuccessful, although the birds continued all the way. There must be +water about the hills in some place. At sundown, my horse becoming very +lame, I was forced reluctantly to return. The flow of the waters is +northward into North Lake Torrens. On Monday I shall start again to the +south-west, and leave the examination of the range to the south-east +until my return. + +Sunday, 24th April, Finniss Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 33 minutes 30 +seconds. Rested. + +Monday, 25th April, Finniss Springs. As it seemed likely to rain, in +which case the country would be very soft, I started at 9.30 on a bearing +of 242 degrees for Chambers Creek. After three miles of gravelly soil and +scanty feed we came to the banks of the two creeks passed by Major +Warburton, splendidly grassed, but the water very salt. They flow into +Lake Torrens. After leaving these creeks we had four miles of sand hills, +very rich with feed, thence over some stony ground to the creek, all +good; my course brought me about three-quarters of a mile to the south of +the creek, which I expected. Distance from the springs to this water +hole, two miles; this is a very long water hole, with plenty of water in +it, and the feed good. We saw some fresh tracks of natives to-day, but +did not meet with any of them. + +Tuesday, 26th April, Chambers Creek. I intend to remain here to-day to +fix this place and examine the country about it. Latitude, 29 degrees 39 +minutes 9 seconds. I sent Campbell (my stockman) in one direction, and +Muller (the botanist) in another; they report quantities of water, also a +great deal of salt water, with plenty of salt for the use of stations, +with abundance of feed. The stockman saw numerous fresh tracks, but did +not see any natives. The fires were still burning. Muller saw an old man, +a woman, and a child. They were very much frightened, and when he +approached, they called out "Pompoy!" and moved their hands for him not +to come any nearer. As they seemed quite unwilling to hold any +conversation, he left them. + +Wednesday, 27th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise this morning, +accompanied by my botanist. After travelling thirty miles in a fruitless +search for water, we camped upon a large stony plain with plenty of +vegetation. The horses were very much tired by reason of the heavy sand. +We could see no sign of Lake Torrens. Latitude, 29 degrees 53 minutes 58 +seconds. + +Thursday, 28th April, Large Stony Plain. Saddled by break of day. Changed +my course to see if the water is still at Yarra Wirta. In order to avoid +the heavy sand hills, which will not do for the horses if there is no +water, I steered for the creek, struck it a little to the north of where +I crossed it on my former expedition, and followed it down. Passed my +former encampment, and found no water there, but on following it down to +where I considered it permanent, I found water still there. I shall give +the horses the afternoon to recruit, and start early in the morning. +Distance to-day, twenty-three miles. + +Friday, 29th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise for about a mile +to that part of the north shore of the lake opposite to where the Yarra +Wirta empties itself into it. The country close to the lake is very stony +and scanty of feed; there is some water in it, but it is very salt; a few +salt creeks run into it, but no great body of water. I ascended a hill +for which I had been steering, and obtained an observation of the sun and +bearings. Latitude, 30 degrees 8 minutes 11 seconds. There is no +appearance of any lake between this point and Mount Deception; it appears +to be a stony plain with some ridges of sand hills. This hill, which I +have named Mount Polly, for distinction, is the easternmost of the +flat-topped hills on the north side of the lake, and is a spur from the +Stuart range. It is very stony, and there is grass nearly to the top; it +is very level, and extends for six miles in a north-westerly direction. I +saw that there was little prospect of my obtaining water to-night; and +knowing that the natives had been seen within a few miles of the camp, I +felt anxious about the safety of my party. I determined to proceed +towards the camp on a north-westerly course. Arrived at the creek at +11.30 p.m. and found all right; the natives had paid them a visit, as I +anticipated, but my people could get no information from them. They were +six in number; one was very forward, wishing to examine everything. I had +left orders that, if they came, they were not to be allowed to come near +the camp, but were to be met a little distance from it. They remained for +some time, and then stole off one by one without being perceived, and +were out of sight in a moment. The one that remained to the last in his +flight did not forget to carry along with him a piece of blanket that had +been a saddle-cloth, and which happened to be lying outside the camp. + +Saturday, 30th April, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and my stockman to +build a cone of stones upon the highest of the three table-topped hills, +for the base line of the survey. They are three remarkable hills close +together; two only can be seen coming from the south and from the +north-east. Latitude, 29 degrees 40 minutes 27 seconds. From the hill the +men saw a number of native fires smoking to the westward on the creek, +but have not seen any natives. + +Sunday, 1st May, Chambers Creek. This morning we had a heavy dew. Went to +the top of the three table-tops, and had a fine view of Mount Hamilton +and the lagoon where the springs are, and the other hills; they are the +same hills that I saw on my north-west course, when on my last journey. + +Monday, 2nd May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and Campbell to build a cone +of stones on Mount Strangways, which I have fixed as a south point of my +base line. The mean of all the observations that I have got to-day makes +the latitude to be 29 degrees 39 minutes 15 seconds. + +Tuesday, 3rd May, Chambers Creek. Spent the day examining the +neighbourhood for water, and in taking numerous bearings. + +Wednesday, 4th May, Chambers Creek. I intend to move to-day to the large +water holes westward, where I first struck the creek. The horses having +strayed a long way off this morning, made it 11 o'clock before we got a +start. About four miles from last night's camp the chain of large water +holes commences, and continues beyond to-night's camp. They are indeed +most splendid water holes--not holes, but very long ponds; they are +nearly one continuous sheet of water, and the scenery is beautiful. I am +sorry I did not name it a river in my former journal. I must bring my +survey up to this night's camp to-morrow. It is very cloudy to-night, +with a strong wind from the south-west, from which quarter the clouds are +coming. The country is a little stony, but well grassed. + +Thursday, 5th May, Chambers Creek. Moved the camp to a better situation. +Ascended a hill, got some bearings to fix it, and built a cone of stones +upon it. I have had the creek, which joins this, run up for three miles +to the sources to-day. There is no more permanent water. There are an +immense number of small fish in the ponds, and on the banks there is a +shrub growing that tastes and smells like cinnamon; we happened to stir +up the sugar in a pannikin of tea with a small twig of the bush, and it +left quite the flavour of it in the tea. I have had Herrgott to take +sketches of some of the ponds, also of the fish and other remarkable +things. It has been rather cloudy to-day, and I could not depend upon my +observations. There are numerous tracks of natives about, but we have not +seen any of them; we have also found some new plants in the creek. + +Friday, 6th May, Chambers Creek. Moved further up the creek on the south +side to the last water that we knew of. It is a hole of rain water, very +large, and will last a long time, being well sheltered by gum-trees and +other shrubs. + +Saturday, 7th May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller to see if there is any +more water to the west, and went myself to the top of a small hill, and +built a cone of stones to connect this point with the last point. Muller +returned after dark, and reported that there was no more permanent water. +I shall start to the north to-morrow. + +Sunday, 8th May, Chambers Creek. Started to the north over the range, +which is rather difficult to get the horses up and down. On the top it is +very stony, with salt bush and scanty grass. Crossed the Margaret and a +salt creek, in which there is water, some of which is salt and some +brackish, but not unfit for the use of cattle. There is abundance of feed +all round. We arrived at Hamilton Springs a little before sundown. +Distance, twenty-one miles. + +Monday, 9th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require to be shod +to-day. I shall also require to build a cone of stones upon Mount +Hamilton (the one built by Major Warburton having fallen down), and get +an observation of the same. Latitude, 29 degrees 27 minutes 37 seconds. +The springs are certainly very remarkable, and Major Warburton gives a +very good description of them. + +Tuesday, 10th May, Mount Hamilton. Started for the Beresford Springs. +Arrived at Mount Hugh at 11 o'clock, seven miles distant from Mount +Hamilton, and, as I anticipated, found a number of splendid springs, +giving out a fine stream of water, not the least brackish. The hill from +which this stream issues is one hundred feet above the level of the +plain, the water coming from the very top. My horse got bogged on the +top, and I had some difficulty in getting him out, but I did so at last +without injuring him. Started from the mount at 12.30, and, after three +miles and a half, arrived at Beresford Springs. The Beresford Springs are +nothing in comparison to the others; there are only two that are running, +but they are very good. The country travelled over to-day has been very +well grassed, with salt bush; take it altogether I have not seen better +runs in the colony, and in the driest summer the furthest distance from +water will not be above five miles at the most, but the feed is so +abundant that they would not require to go so far. On that account they +will feed double and treble the number of stock that the runs down the +country do. At two miles on this side of the Hugh Springs discovered +another batch of springs with plenty of water running from them; there +are about eight or nine of them very good; those springs have not been +visited by Major Warburton. We examined all round, but could find no +tracks. I have named them the Elizabeth Springs. There is enough water +running to drive a flour-mill in two or three places. They are really +remarkable springs--such a height above the level of the plain; I saw +them from a hill on Chambers Creek (the Twins). From whence do they +derive their supply of water, to cause them to rise to such a height? It +must be from some high ranges to the north-west, or a large body of fresh +water lying on elevated ground. This is another strange feature of the +mysterious interior of Australia. I shall remain here until after 12 +to-morrow, to get an observation of the sun to fix this hill. I shall +return to Mount Hamilton, and proceed to examine the country west of +North Lake Torrens, for one of the east runs, which will complete my +survey of them, and I shall despatch thence a messenger to Oratunga. + +Wednesday, 11th May, Elizabeth Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 17 minutes +43 seconds. I omitted to mention yesterday that, two miles before we +reached Beresford Hill, we crossed Pasley Ponds and saw one of the +Major's camps. The water is brackish, but not bad. The white deposit +round these springs, and also round the Elizabeth, is soda. In returning, +I examined the Coward Springs; the water is good, and running. There is a +plentiful supply. It was dark when I arrived at Mount Hamilton. Saw four +natives to-day, but they gave us a wide berth; they do not like to come +near us. + +Thursday, 12th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require shoeing, +and I wish to get another observation of the sun. I shall remain here +to-day, and examine the country to the north-east. About seven miles in +that direction is the salt creek of Major Warburton. The country is of a +light sandy soil covered with grass. + +Friday, May 13th, Mount Hamilton. Started to the eastward, to complete +the survey of the runs, and see if there are any more springs. To the +south of east, about four miles, we discovered four springs not seen by +the Major; there is a plentiful supply of water, and would be more if +they were opened. One is choked up with reeds, but the other two are +running. Saw some natives; they seemed frightened at first, but were +induced to come close up: they were very much amused at our equipments. +Two had seen or heard of whites before; they knew the name of horse, but +no more; they call water courie, and some of their words very much +resemble those of the natives in Port Lincoln. We could make nothing of +them--they repeat every word of the question we ask them. They followed +us over to the Margaret, and took us to some fresh-water springs in the +creek, the water of which is very good. There is a quantity of reeds +growing round them, also tea-tree. From this we followed the creek to the +north, thence north-east towards the lake, but the water being too +brackish, I returned to the springs, the natives walking with us all the +time; they seemed very inoffensive. In following down the creek, another +native joined us from the creek, carrying a net in which were some small +fish; the net was a hoop one, well made. + +Saturday, May 14th, The Margaret Creek. The morning very cloudy; every +appearance of rain. Saddled and proceeded in search of Emerald Spring, on +a north course. At seven miles made Mr. Babbage's old camp on a sand +hill. Camped a little way from it. I did not know the position of the +spring, but Herrgott informed me that it was three miles to the west. It +commenced raining before we started, has rained all the way up, and is +still doing so; it is a very light rain, but the wind is very strong and +cold from the south-west. Intended to have brought up my plan, but the +rain and wind prevent me. + +Sunday, 15th May, Mr. Babbage's Old Camp. It cleared off during the +night, but the clouds have come up again this morning and look very +threatening. Sent Herrgott to find the spring. The wind is still from the +same quarter, and too strong for me to do anything to the plan, which is +a great annoyance. I will finish the survey of the runs from this place, +and send Campbell back to Oratunga with the plan. Herrgott did not return +until after sundown: he could not find the spring. + +Monday, 16th May, Same Place. Sent Muller to the west; he returned at 10 +o'clock, having found the spring about two miles and a half distant from +the camp; it is not hot, but a little warmer than milk-warm. There is a +good stream running from it, and the water is excellent; to me it has a +mineral taste, very good. There were some small fish lying dead on the +bank, near the mouth; they seemed to have been left there by the retiring +of the flood--they were quite dried up. I intended to have taken some +with me, but they were too dry--nothing but skin and bone. The creek +empties itself into the lake, about a mile north from where Chambers +Creek goes into it. + +Tuesday, 17th May, Same Place. Again very cloudy, with a little rain. +Busy finishing the survey. Could not obtain an observation of the sun. +Wind still very strong. + +Wednesday, 18th May, Same Place. Weather clearing up. Engaged with +survey. + +Thursday, 19th May, Same Place. Finishing tracings, etc. + +Friday, 20th May, Same Place. At sunrise started Campbell for Oratunga +with tracings, letter, etc., with orders to proceed to Finniss Springs, +thence to Herrgott Springs, thence to St. A'Becket's Pool, thence to +Mount Glenns, thence to Mount Stuart, and thence to Oratunga, taking six +days to perform the journey. Preparing my other plans for a start +to-morrow for the north-west, to see what the Davenport range is. +Latitude, 29 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds. + +Saturday, 21st May, Same Place. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 310 +degrees for the Davenport range. At twenty-two miles changed our course +to examine a large lagoon to the south-west of us, bearing 238 degrees. +At two miles reached the lagoon, which we examined for springs, but found +none. I suppose it receives Major Warburton's salt creek. It is caked +with a crust of salt, and is dry; it is seven miles long by three broad, +running north-west and south-west. On the south-west side it is bounded +by steep cliffs, and high sand hills on the top. Changed to 310 degrees, +our original course. Came upon some rain water at four miles, and camped +for the night. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles. + +Sunday, 22nd May, Rain Water. Sent Herrgott to examine the south-west +side of the lagoon which we passed last night, with orders to overtake me +by 11.30, so that I may get an observation of the sun at noon. The horses +having strayed some distance during the night, our start was delayed +until 9.15. Started on the same bearing as yesterday, 310 degrees. +Stopped at 11.20 for Herrgott to come with the instruments, but he did +not come up until 1.15, so that I lost my observation. I had told him, if +there was no appearance of springs not to go far, but to return +immediately; instead of which he went round the lagoon. Camped on a stony +rise, with a little wood. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles. + +Monday, 23rd May, Stony Rise. Started towards the Davenport range. The +sand hills again commenced with beautiful feed upon them--low, with broad +valleys; they continued for five miles, when the stony plain again +commenced. The highest part of the range seems to be at the north-eastern +point, which has the appearance of a detached hill. At three miles and a +quarter from the last of the sand hills we saw the Douglas, and changed +our bearing to 328 degrees 30 minutes. At one mile and a quarter struck +the creek, but found no water in it. There were a number of gums, but not +very large, also plenty of myalls there. The bed of the creek is bad, and +will not retain water. We followed it down for three miles to see if +there was water; but no sign of it, the creek still continuing broad and +sandy. I was obliged to return to where I struck it, because it was +nearly sundown, and I had found a little rain water about a mile to the +south, which would do for the horses in the morning. + +Tuesday, 24th May, The Douglas. Herrgott's horse in want of shoes. Could +not get a start until late. Found a little more rain water in a clay-pan. +If I can find no water near the range, I shall have to fall back upon +Strangway Springs. I am anxious to see what is on the other side of the +range, or I would run this creek down. There are numerous tracks of +natives about the creek; we have also seen three fires three or four days +old. Latitude, 28 degrees 45 minutes 4 seconds. Started at 12.30 on a +bearing of 313 degrees for the highest point of the range east, over +stony table land. The creek runs in the same direction for four miles, it +then turns to the westward, and is lost sight of among some hills. At ten +miles struck a stony box-tree creek; its bed was sand and gravel, but no +water. At 11.30 descended from the table land, and camped at a gum creek +at sundown; the bed the same as the last, and no water. There were +numerous native foot-tracks here also. I am sorry I could not reach the +range to-night, but we had some very bad ground to travel over, and no +water. + +Wednesday, 25th May, Dry Gum Creek. Examined the creek for water, but +found none. Started on the same course as yesterday, 313 degrees, for the +north-east highest point, which I suppose to be the Mount Margaret of +Major Warburton. Native tracks seen in the creek. There may be water some +distance down the creek, but here it is too sandy to retain it. At four +miles struck another gum creek in turning round the south side of the +range; it was of the same description as the others, too sandy to hold +water. Proceeded towards the highest point of the range, and obtained an +observation of the sun within a mile and a half of the mount. Left the +horses in charge of Muller and ascended the mount, which was very +difficult; it took us an hour to go up, and three-quarters of an hour to +come down. The hill is composed of a greenish slate, lying horizontally +at the base, and courses of quartz and granite, with ironstone; but I can +see nothing of Major Warburton's quartz cliffs; they must be more to the +south-west. The range has a very peculiar appearance from a short +distance off; it seems to be an immense number of rugged conical hills +all thrown together. From the top, the view to the north-west was hidden +by a higher point of the range. To the north-north-west there is another +range, about twenty miles distant, apparently higher than this, running +south-west and north-east. To the north is another far-distant range; to +the east, broken hill and stony plain, with a number of clay-pans. A +number of creeks run to the eastward from this range; they become gum +creeks further down, but in and close to the range they have myall +bushes, and other shrubs. No water to be obtained in this range. Changed +my course to the north-east to examine a white clay-pan that I thought +might contain some fresh water. At three miles came upon it, and was very +much disappointed to find it salt. This being the second day that the +horses have been without water, I must give up the search for springs and +return to one mile south of the Douglas, where we had found a little rain +water. It being nearly sundown, I made for the last large gum creek, +striking it lower down, also cutting the other creeks between, hoping to +find water in some, but there was none. Made the large gum creek at 10 +o'clock. Camped for the night. Horses very much done up, in consequence +of the ground that we have been travelling over being so rotten and +stony. The country is not good, nor the range; but at three miles to the +east it becomes less stony and better grassed. No water. + +Thursday, 26th May, Large Gum Creek. Started at daylight for beyond the +Douglas. At 3 o'clock arrived at water. Horses so much done up that I +shall require to give them two days' rest, if the water will hold so +long, and then I must return to the Strangway Springs, as we know that to +be permanent water. There are some heavy clouds coming up from the +south-west, which I hope will bring rain. + +Friday, 27th May, The Douglas. Rain all gone after a slight shower, which +did not assist me much. Very sorry for it. + +Saturday, 28th May, The Douglas. Horses looking better this morning, so I +will give them this day also. I have sent Muller down the creek to the +eastward, to see if there is any water in it. I should have gone again +to-day to the Davenport range, to see if I could find the quartz reefs by +striking it more to the south-west, but it would be too much for the +horses, which are my mainstay, and this water will not last longer than +to-day; it is going very fast. I do wish to goodness it would rain, for I +do hate going back. Muller returned at sundown. He has been about twelve +miles down the creek, but can find no water. It still continued sandy. He +shot three new parrots. + +Sunday, 29th May, The Douglas. Not being satisfied with my hurried +examination of the range, I shall make another attempt to-day, and +endeavour to find water. If we do not succeed we must fall back upon the +springs. Started on a course of west-north-west. Crossed the Douglas +three times. It turned to the south-west, but I continued my course, over +low hills and valleys, with plenty of feed, with quartz, ironstone, and +granite. At fifteen miles changed a little more to the north towards a +rise. The country becomes very broken and rough, but still plenty of +grass. At twenty miles crossed the upper part of the gum creek that I +camped on on the 25th instant. The banks are nearly perpendicular cliffs +of slate. Followed it up for two miles, but no water. I continued my +course for the rising ground. At six miles I found that I was getting +upon high table land; so, as the sun was nearly down, I returned to the +creek, where there is some green feed for the horses, as they will be +without water to-night. It was after sundown before I reached the creek +and camped. I have named this creek Davenport Creek, after the Honourable +Mr. Davenport, M.L.C. + +Monday, 30th May, Davenport Creek. Started at sunrise determined to +follow down the creek, for I think there must be water somewhere before +it enters the plain. The flow is to the east. At five miles came upon a +beautiful spring in the bed of the creek, for which I am truly thankful. +I have named this The Spring of Hope. It is a little brackish, not from +salt, but soda, and runs a good stream of water. I have lived upon far +worse water than this: to me it is of the utmost importance, and keeps my +retreat open. I can go from here to Adelaide at any time of the year, and +in any sort of season. Camped for the rest of the day. Latitude, 28 +degrees 33 minutes 34 seconds. + +Tuesday, 31st May, The Spring of Hope. Shoeing horses, and repairing +various things. + +Wednesday, 1st June, The Spring of Hope. Not being satisfied with my +hurried view of the salt clay-pan that I visited on the 25th ultimo, I +have sent Muller to-day to examine it for springs, before I proceed to +the north-west. On a further examination of this water, I find a very +large portion of magnesia in it, and also salt, but very little. Muller +has returned, having been down the creek, and, as I expected, has found a +small spring of very good water on the banks of the salt creek. I expect +there will be others. I shall move down there to-morrow and examine it. I +expect we have fallen upon the line of springs again, which I hope will +continue towards the north. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long +time. + +Thursday, 2nd June, The Spring of Hope. Started at 9 o'clock for the +springs, and arrived there in the afternoon. Travelled over a stony but +very good feeding country, which became better as we approached the +springs. There is a creek with a large water hole, and around the small +hills are numerous springs. On the banks of the creek and round the +springs an immense quantity of rushes, bulrushes, and other water-plants +are growing. The quantity of land they cover is very great, amounting to +several square miles. Some of the springs are choked up, others are +running, though not so active as those further to the south. Round about +them there is a thin crust of saltpetre, magnesia, and salt. The water of +these springs is very good, but that of the creek is a little brackish, +but will do very well for cattle. Some of the holes in the creek are +rather salt. There is enough of good water for the largest station in the +colony. Round the small hill, where I am now camped, there are twelve +springs, and the water is first-rate. I have named them Hawker Springs, +after G.C. Hawker, Esquire, M.L.A.* (* Now the Honourable G.C. Hawker, +Speaker of the House of Assembly at Adelaide.) The hills are composed of +slate, mica, quartz (resembling those of the gold country), and +ironstone. Latitude, 28 degrees 24 minutes 17 seconds. One of the horses +seems to be very unwell to-day; he has endeavoured to lie down two or +three times during the journey, but I hope he will be better by the +morning. + +Friday, 3rd June, Hawker Springs. I find that the horse is too unwell to +proceed. I shall give him another day, for fear I should lose him +altogether. I sent Muller to see if there are any springs round the hill +about six miles to the east. He states that the creek flows past that +hill, and on towards other hills of the same kind. The springs continue +to within half a mile of the hill, where he found two large springs +running over, covered with long reeds. I do not doubt but that they still +continue on towards the lake, (wherever that may be), which I intend to +examine on my return. + +Saturday, 4th June, Hawker Springs. This morning the horse does not look +much better, but still I must push on. Started at 8 towards the highest +point of the next range. At one mile struck a gum creek coming from the +Davenport range, and running to the north of east; the bed sandy and +grassy. At four miles another gum creek of the same description, with the +gum-trees stunted. At eight miles and a half struck three creeks joining +at about a quarter of a mile to the east; the centre one is gum, and the +other two myall. At twelve miles changed my course to 29 degrees to +examine three dark-coloured hills, where I think there will be springs. +At a mile and a quarter came upon a small batch of springs round the +north side of the hills in a broad grassy valley, with plenty of good +water. Changed my course again to 318 degrees towards the highest point +of the range. At one mile a myall and gum creek; at three miles another +gum creek; at seven miles a very large and broad gum creek, spread out +into numerous channels. I have not the least doubt but there is water +above and below, judging from the number of tracks of natives and emus +that have been up and down the creek. As this is the largest creek that I +have passed, and is likely to become as good as Chambers Creek, which it +very much resembles, I have called it The Blyth, after the Honourable +Arthur Blyth. I have named the range to the east The Hanson Range, after +the Honourable R.D. Hanson. At nine miles and a half attained the highest +point of the range, and built a cone of stones thereon, and have named it +Mount Younghusband, after the Honourable William Younghusband. From it I +had a good view of the surrounding country, which seems to be plentifully +supplied with springs. To the north-west is another isolated range like +this; I should think it is about seven hundred feet high. I have named it +Mount Kingston, after the Honourable G.S. Kingston, Speaker of the House +of Assembly. To the north the broken ranges continue, and in the distance +there is a long flat-topped range, broken in some places. It seems to be +closing upon my course on the last bearing. I cannot judge of the +distance, the mirage being so great. Descended from the mount, and +proceeded on a bearing of 336 degrees towards a spring that I saw from +the top. As we were rounding the mount to the east, we found eight +springs before we halted, in a distance of three miles; some were +running, and others were choked up, but soft and boggy. At dark arrived +at another batch of springs--not those that I intended going to--they are +on the banks of a small creek, close to and coming from the range; they +are not so active as the others, and taste a little brackish; they are +coated with soda, saltpetre, and salt. The horse seems to be very ill; he +has again attempted to lie down two or three times. I cannot imagine what +is the matter with him. + +Sunday, 5th June, Mount Younghusband. I must remain where I am to-day; +the horse is so bad that he cannot proceed; he neither eats nor drinks. I +have sent Muller to the west side of the mount to see the extent of the +springs; they are on the banks of a creek which has brackish water in it, +large and deep, and a great quantity of rushes. The water comes from the +limestone banks which are covered with soda. He rode round the mount: it +is all the same, and the feed is splendid right to the top of the mount. +It is a wonderful country, scarcely to be believed. I have had one of the +springs opened to-day, and the water to-night tastes excellent; it could +not be better. Native tracks about; I am surprised we see none of them; +we are passing old fires constantly. Latitude, 28 degrees 1 minute 32 +seconds. + +Monday, 6th June, Mount Younghusband. The horses being some distance off, +and my horse requiring a shoe, I was unable to make a start until 10 +o'clock, on a bearing of 307 degrees 45 minutes, passing Mount Kingston +on the south-west side. At three-quarters of a mile came upon the springs +that I intended to have camped at on Saturday night: they are flowing in +a stream strong enough to supply any number of cattle. I named them The +Barrow Springs, after J.U. Barrow, Esquire, M.L.A. At four miles and a +half struck a large broad valley, in which are the largest springs I have +yet seen. The flow of water from them is immense, coming in numerous +streams, and the country around is beautiful. I have named these The +Freeling Springs, after the Honourable Major Freeling, M.L.C. After +leaving the springs I ascended a rough stony hill, to have a view of +them, but I could not see them all, their extent is so great. They extend +to under the Kingston range, and how much further I do not know. From +this point I changed my course to 322 degrees. I can just see the top of +a distant range, for which I will go on that bearing. At one mile and a +half crossed a broad gum salt creek, coming from the west, with a +quantity of salt water in it. I have named this Peake Creek, after C.J. +Peake, Esquire, M.L.A. After crossing this, we travelled over low rises +with quartz, ironstone, and slate; the quartz predominating. Herrgott and +Muller, who have both been long in the Victoria gold diggings, say that +they have not seen any place that resembles those diggings so much as +this does. The country seems as if it were covered with snow, from the +quantity of quartz. At eleven miles passed a brackish water creek and +salt lagoon; searched for springs but could find none, although reeds and +rushes abound, but no water on the surface. I thence proceeded +three-quarters of a mile, and struck a gum creek with a number of +channels and very long water holes, but the water is brackish; it might +do for cattle. This I have named The Neale, after J.B. Neale, Esquire, +M.L.A. I think by following it down, there will be a large quantity of +water, and good, and that it will become a very important creek. No +person could wish for a better country for feed than that we have passed +over to-day; it resembles the country about Chambers Creek. + +Tuesday, 7th June, The Neale. At 8 o'clock started on a bearing of 180 +degrees for the northernmost of the isolated hills, to see if there are +springs round it. At four miles ascended it, but could see no springs. +This I have named Mount Harvey, after J. Harvey, Esquire, M.L.A. from +Mount Kingston it bears 47 degrees 45 minutes. Thence I started for the +other mount, which I have named Mount Dutton, after the Honourable F.T. +Dutton; four miles and a half to the top. The Hanson range is closing +upon my course, and I think to-morrow's journey will cut it. On the north +side are a few springs, some of them a little brackish, and some very +good. We cleared out one, and found it very good. Here I camped for the +night. From south-west to north-west it seems to be an immense plain, +stony on the surface, with salt bush and grass. Mount Dutton is well +grassed to the top; it is composed of the same rock as the others. + +Wednesday, 8th June, Mount Dutton. at 9.15 started on a course of 310 +degrees. At three-quarters of a mile passed another batch of springs, +some of them brackish, and some very good indeed. Leaving them we passed +over a good feeding country, crossing several gum and myall creeks, one +with polyganum, all coming from Hanson range and flowing into the Neale. +At nine miles crossed the top of Hanson range. From it I could see, about +fifteen miles to the west of north, a high point of this range, which I +have named Mount O'Halloran (after the Honourable Major O'Halloran), on +the west side of which there appears to be a large creek coming from the +north-west. We then proceeded on a course of 324 degrees towards Mount +O'Halloran. At four miles and a half struck a large gum creek coming from +the range and running for about four miles north-west on our course; +examined it for water, but found none. It divides itself into numerous +channels, and when full must retain a large quantity of water for a long +time. The gum-trees are large and numerous, and numbers of pigeons +frequent its banks. At a mile further came upon some rain water in a +stony flat, where we camped for the night between low sand rises covered +with grass. + +Thursday, 9th June, Stony Flat. This country must be examined today for +springs. I have therefore sent Muller down the creek to search that, +whilst I must remain and get an observation of the sun. My party is far +too small to examine the country well. I cannot go myself and leave the +camp with the provisions to one man; the natives might attack him, and +destroy the lot, there seem to be a great many tracks about. Three +o'clock. Muller has returned; he has run the creek down until it joined +another very large gum creek coming from the north-west--the one that I +saw from the top of the range. The gum-trees were large; from one of them +the natives had cut a large sheet of bark, evidently for a canoe. He also +saw two large water holes, one hundred yards wide and a quarter of a mile +long, with very high and steep banks. It seems to be the same creek as +the Neale. Can it be Cooper's Creek? the country very much resembles it. +My course will strike it more to the north-west to-morrow. + +Friday, 10th June, Same Place. I have been very unwell during the night +with cramp in the stomach, but hope I shall get better as I go on. +Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 32 degrees 4 minutes. At four miles +went to the top of Mount O'Halloran. The creek is about three miles to +the west; it breaks through the Hanson range. Changed my course to 317 +degrees to get away from the stones, which are very rough close to the +hill. At six miles changed my course to 270 degrees to examine an +isolated hill for springs, but found none. The creek winds round this +hill, and spreads out into numerous channels, covering a space of two +miles; but there is no water here, nor for three miles further up the +creek. We have, however, found some rain water; and, as I feel so unwell +that I am unable to ride, I have camped here for the night, and sent +Muller to examine the creek for water. He has been unsuccessful. + +Saturday, 11th June, Rain Water. I feel a little better this morning. +Started at 9.20 on a bearing of 317 degrees. Crossed the creek, which is +about a mile wide. For five miles it ran parallel to my course, and then +turned more to the west. There is a beautiful plain along the bank, about +three miles wide, and completely covered with grass. At nine miles and a +half, on a small rise, changed my course to 318 degrees 30 minutes, to a +distant hill. Travelled for nine miles and a half over another large and +well-grassed plain of the same description; thence over some low stony +hills to a myall flat, the soil beautiful, of a red colour, covered with +grass; after four miles it became sandy. Camped for the night, after +having gone thirty-one miles. The country of to-day surpasses all that I +have yet travelled over for the abundance of feed. We have passed a +number of native tracks, but only one or two are fresh. We have found no +water to-day, except some little rain water, which is nearly all mud. I +have no doubt but there is plenty towards the east. + +Sunday, 12th June, Myall Flat. I feel still very unwell. We are now come +to our last set of shoes for the horses, and, having experienced the +misery of being without them in my previous journey, I am, though with +great reluctance, forced to turn back. My party is also too small to make +a proper examination of such splendid country. Started back, keeping more +to the east to examine a high hill in search of water. If I can find +water, I shall endeavour to reach the north boundary. At 11.40 arrived at +the hill. Latitude, 27 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. Can see no +appearance of water, although the country seems good all round. Ten +degrees to the east of north is a large dark-coloured hill, which I saw +from last night's camp, from fifteen to twenty miles distant. I should +like to go to it, but can find no water. I have named it Mount Browne, +after Mr. J.H. Browne, of Port Gawler, my companion in Captain Sturt's +expedition. I dare not risk the horses another night without water, the +grass is so very dry; had there been green grass, I would not have +hesitated a moment. Turned towards the Neale by a different course to try +and find water; was unsuccessful until within an hour of sundown, when we +struck some muddy water. As I expected, the horses were very thirsty and +devoured the lot. Reached the creek after dark. + +Monday, 13th June, The Neale. Found some rain water on the bank of the +creek, and, two of the horses requiring shoes, I stopped for the day. At +noon sent Muller up the creek to see if he could find any water holes, +but he saw none. At six miles another creek coming from the south-west +joins this. I am afraid I shall not have enough shoes to carry me into +the settled districts. The creek does not seem to have been running for a +number of years. The water has, some time or other, been ten feet high. +The breadth of the plain where the channels flow is a mile and a half, +and the quantity of water must be immense. It drains a very large extent +of country. After examining the country during the next two or three +days, I shall endeavour to follow this creek down, and learn where it +empties itself. + +Tuesday, 14th June, The Neale. Started at 9 o'clock. Running the creek +down. At eight miles crossed another branch of the creek coming from the +south of west. We found no water. At twelve miles changed my bearing to +south. At three miles and a half camped at the two water holes that +Muller found when I sent him to examine the creek on the 9th instant. I +can not with certainty say they are permanent, there are neither reeds +nor rushes round them; they are very large and very deep, and, when +filled with rain, must hold a large quantity of water for a long time. +There are ducks upon them. The water does not taste like rain water, +which leads me to think that it may be permanent and supplied by springs +from below. + +Wednesday, 15th June, Water Holes found by Muller on the 9th. Started at +9.15 a.m. Following the creek down. As we approached Hanson range, where +it broke through, we came upon two nice water holes with ducks upon them. +They are long, wide, and deep, with clay banks, and about three feet of +water in the middle. There are no reeds nor rushes round them, and it is +doubtful whether they are permanent. At seven miles and a half the creek +winds a little more to the west. Shortly afterwards we struck (in the +gap) two very long and large water holes a quarter of a mile long, and +between forty and fifty yards wide, and very deep. These I may safely say +are permanent. After getting through the range, the creek spreads out +over a large plain in numerous courses, bearing towards the south-east. +At four miles and a half changed my course. At six miles, going more to +the east, changed again, and at eight miles camped for the night, without +water. We have found no water since leaving the last water hole, although +I do not doubt of there being some. It would have taken us too long a +time to examine it more than I have done, my party being so small. We +have passed several winter worleys of the natives, built with mud in the +shape of a large beehive, with a small hole as the entrance. Numerous +tracks all about the creek, but we see no natives. We are now approaching +the spring country again. + +Thursday, 16th June, The Neale. Started at 11.15. Still following the +creek, which continues to spread widely over the plain. At five miles I +observed some white patches of ground on the south-west side of Mount +Dutton, resembling a batch of springs. I changed my course and steered +for them, crossing the Neale at two miles and three-quarters. On the +south-west side of the Neale the country is rather stony, and for about a +mile from it the feed is not very good, in consequence of its being +subject to inundation, but beyond that the feed is beautiful. At three +miles and a half made the white patches, and found them to be springs +covering a large extent of country, but not so active as those already +described. Leaving the springs at two miles, crossed the Neale at a place +where it becomes narrower and the channel much deeper, with long sheets +of salt and brackish water. I shall now leave the creek. In the time of a +flood an immense body of water must come down it. At the widest part, +where it spreads itself out in the plain, the drift stuff is from +fourteen to fifteen feet up in the trees. Camped at 4 p.m. + +Friday, 17th June, The Neale. Discovered another large quantity of water +supplied by springs. This country is a wonderful place for them. There is +an immense quantity of water running now. + +Saturday, 18th June, The Neale. Started early in the morning to examine +the country. Found large quantities of quartz, samples of which I brought +with me. Still well watered, but without any timber. + +Sunday, 19th June, The Neale. Water in abundance, with large quantities +of quartz. The course the quartz seems to take is from the south-west to +the north-east. The plain we examined to-day is a large basin, surrounded +by the hills from Mount Younghusband and Mount Kingston, with the creek +running through the centre. To-morrow I shall have a look along the +north-east side of Mount Kingston, for I see the quartz apparently goes +through the range and breaks out again on the north-east side, which is +very white. + +Monday, 20th June, Mount Kingston. Started at 8 o'clock a.m. to examine +the quartz on the east side of Mount Kingston. Crossed the creek, and at +three miles struck a quartz reef. The Freeling Springs still continue, +but seem inclined to run more to the eastward. Changed my course to a +peak in a low range which has a white appearance. At eight miles reached +the peak; the quartz ceases altogether, and the country is stony from +here. I can see the line of the Neale running eastward; it spreads out +over the plain. It was my intention to follow it until it reached the +lake, but I find the ground too stony for me to do so. Being reduced to +my last set of shoes, and some of them pretty well worn out, I am obliged +to retreat. Changed my course at seven miles across the bed of the creek, +three miles broad, with a number of brackish water holes in it, some very +salt. At this point the trees cease. I can see nothing of the lake. +Camped on a gum creek without water. The latter part of our course was +over a very barren and rotten plain, surrounded by cliffs of gypsum, +quite destitute of vegetation. It has evidently been the bed of a small +lake at some time. There is no salt about it. + +Tuesday, 21st June, Dry Gum Creek. At 7.40 started on the same course as +last night, and after various changes of bearings arrived at the hill, +whither I had sent Muller, and where he found two springs. Instead of +two, they are numerous all round the hill; some are without water on the +surface, and others have plenty. It is a perfect bed of springs. A little +more east they are stronger, surrounded with green reeds and rushes. + +Wednesday, 22nd June, Mount Younghusband. Started at 8.40. At three miles +and a half came to a large bed of springs with reeds and rushes, water +running and good, with numerous other small springs all round. They are a +continuation of those we camped at last night, with an abundant supply of +excellent water. At four miles crossed the salt creek coming from Hawker +Springs. At eight miles crossed three salt and soda lagoons, surrounded +by lime and gypsum mounds, in which are numerous springs up to the foot +of the hills (ten miles and a half) and all round them. I have named +these hills Parry Hills, after Samuel Parry, Esquire. It was my intention +to have gone to the east from this, but the horses' shoes will not admit +of it. To the south-east I observed three conical hills, for which I will +now steer. At seven miles crossed a gum creek, in which are large water +holes, where water had been lately, but there is now only mud. There must +be water either up or down the creek, for there are numerous native +tracks leading both ways. At ten miles crossed a large gum (stunted) +creek with abundant springs of rather brackish water. At nineteen miles +and a half camped on a broad creek, but no water. The country good. + +Thursday, 23rd June, Dry Creek. Started at 8.30 on the same course for +one of the conical hills. At three miles ascended it, and found it to be +flat-topped. I can see nothing of any lake to the east. The view is +interrupted by a flat-topped range. From this I changed my course, and at +three miles and a half observed a peculiar-looking spot to the +south-west, which had the appearance of springs. Changed my course for +it, and at six miles came upon a hill of springs surrounded by a number +of smaller ones, with an ample supply of first-rate water. The hill is +covered with reeds and rushes; it is situated at the west side of a large +plain, and is bounded by stony table land on the east side, which has an +abrupt descent of about thirty feet into the plain. On the west side are +a number of broken hills, and a small range composed of gypsum and lime, +having the surface covered with fragments of quartz and ironstone, and a +number of other pebbles. On the hill where the springs are we have found +lava. There are numerous small creeks coming from the hill, and running +in every direction. They seem to be all in confusion. The plain is about +five miles wide. These I have named the Louden Springs. + +Friday, 24th June, Louden Springs. I must remain here to-day, and put the +last of the shoes upon some of the horses which are getting rather lame. +I have been making them go without as long as I can. + +Saturday, 25th June, Louden Springs. Started at 7.50. At 8.45 (three +miles) crossed a gum creek, and at 12 o'clock (eleven miles) crossed the +Douglas, but no water. The channel still broad and sandy. + +Sunday, 26th June, The Douglas. Started at 8.25, on a bearing of 217 +degrees. Crossed the lagoon, which was rather boggy in some places. It is +now more than two miles broad, with a white crust on the top, composed of +soda and salt, but mostly salt. It must be supplied by springs. At three +miles crossed a salt creek, with salt water. It empties itself into the +lagoon, and is the same that passes by the Strangway Springs. I can see +nothing of any springs at this part of the creek. Steered upon the same +course to intersect my outward tracks. Saw some natives walking along a +valley. They did not observe us. I hailed them, and an old man came up to +us. He was rather frightened, and trembled a good deal. He seemed to +wonder and be pleased at my smoking a pipe of tobacco. I gave one to him +and a piece of tobacco, but he did not know how to manage the cutting, +filling, and lighting operations. I did these for him. In the first +attempt he put the wrong end into his mouth, which he found rather hot, +and quickly took it out. I then showed him the right end. He managed a +whiff or two, but he did not fancy it. He seemed very much pleased with +the pipe, which he kept. I then made him understand that I wanted water. +He pointed the same course that I was steering. In a short time another +made his appearance in the distance. By a little persuasion from the old +fellow, he was induced to come up, and in a short time became very +talkative, and very anxious to show us the water. In a few minutes a +third made his appearance, and came up. He was the youngest--a stout, +able-bodied fellow, about twenty-four years old. The others were much +older, but were very powerful men, and all three in excellent condition. +The women did not come up, but remained in the flat. I expected they were +going to take us to some springs, and was disappointed when they showed +us some rain water in a deep hole. They were quite surprised to see our +horses drink it all. They would go no further with us, nor show us any +more, and, in a short time after, left us. We struck our outward tracks, +and steered for the Elizabeth Springs, where we arrived after dark. + +Monday, 27th June, Elizabeth Springs. Gave the horses a half-day, and +made the Mount Hamilton Springs in the afternoon. + +Tuesday, 28th June, Hamilton Springs. Started for Chambers Creek to my +first encampment. Arrived there in the afternoon. Distance, eighteen +miles. + +Wednesday, 29th June, Chambers Creek. Resting the horses and preparing +for a trip down on the west side of Mount North-west, to see if I can +find a road and water that way. + +Friday, 1st July, Chambers Creek. Started at 8 a.m. on a bearing of 120 +degrees. At twenty-four miles camped on a water hole in Gregory Creek, +where it comes out of the hills. There are three remarkable peaks north +of the water, one in particular having a white face to the east, with a +course of black stones on the summit, distant about one mile. The first +five miles was over a well-grassed country, with stones on the surface, +slightly undulating, with a number of good valleys, very broad, emptying +themselves into Gregory Creek. At twenty-two miles crossed the main +channel of the creek. It is divided into a number of courses, with some +very deep holes in them. When they are filled, they must retain water for +a great length of time. There are a great many native encampments all +about the creek. The gums are dwarf. + +Saturday, 2nd July, Gregory Creek. Started at 10.8. Course, 120 degrees. +At three miles, opposite a long permanent water hole, with rushes growing +round it. At seven miles, crossed the upper part of the Gregory; eight +miles and a half, top of dividing range; thirteen miles, crossed a creek +with rain water; fourteen miles, crossed another deep channel. Camped at +twenty-three miles, within twelve miles of Termination Hill. The country +for ten miles before we halted was very good. + +Sunday, 3rd July. Rounded Termination Hill, and arrived at Mr. Glen's +station. + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE +TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860. + +Friday, 4th November, 1859. Started from Chambers Creek for the Emerald +Spring. At ten miles crossed nine fresh horse-tracks going eastward; I +supposed them to be those of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. I have +not as yet seen his outward track. Arrived at the spring before sundown. + +Saturday, 5th November, Emerald Spring. Started at 7.30 on a course of +340 degrees. At seven miles and a half changed to 38 degrees, for three +miles to a high sand hill, from which I could see two salt lagoons, one +to the south and the other to the north; examined them, but could find no +springs. Next bearing, 18 degrees, to clear the lagoon, two miles and a +half sandy, with salt bush and grass. Changed to our first bearing, 340 +degrees, for six miles, and then to 350 degrees, for five miles, when we +reached the top of a high hill, from which we could see the lake lying to +the north of us about three miles distant. Changed to 315 degrees for +three miles and a half to get a good view of the lake. This is a large +bay; from north-east to north-west there is nothing visible but the dark, +deep blue line of the horizon. To the north-north-east there is an island +very much resembling Boston Island (Port Lincoln) in shape; to the east +of it there is a point of land coming from the mainland. To the +north-north-west are, apparently, two small islands. A short distance to +the east of the horn of the bay there seems to be much white sand or salt +for two or three miles from the beach towards the blue water (on this +side of which there is a white line as if it were surf): this again +appears at the shores of the island, and also at the horn of the bay. +From the south shore to the island the distance is great; I should say +about twenty-five miles, but it is very difficult to judge correctly. At +three miles and a half camped at sundown, without water. + +Sunday, 6th November, Lake Eyre. Got up before daybreak to get the first +glimpse of the lake, to see if there is any land on the horizon, and, +with a powerful telescope, can see none. It has the same appearance as I +described last night. I watched it for some time after sunrise, and it +still continued the same. After breakfast went to examine the shore: +course north, two miles and a half; found it to be caked with salt, with +ironstone and lime gravel. When flooded, at about fifty yards from the +hard beach, the water will be about three feet deep. I tried to ride to +the water, but found it too soft, so I dismounted and tried it on foot. +At about a quarter of a mile I came upon a number of small fish, all +dried and caked in salt; they seem to have been left on the receding of +the waters, or driven on shore by a heavy storm; they were scattered over +a surface of twelve yards in breadth all along the shore; very few, +especially of the larger ones, were perfect. I succeeded in obtaining +three as nearly perfect as possible; one measured eight inches by three, +one six inches by two and a half, and another five inches by two. They +resemble the bream. I should think this a sufficient proof of the depth +of the water. I then proceeded towards the water, but the ground became +soft, and the clay was so very tenacious and my feet so heavy, that it +was with difficulty I could move them, and so I was obliged to return. +The salt is about three inches thick, and underneath it is clay. I would +have tried it in some other places, but as my horses were without water +(and as I intend to visit this place again), I think it more prudent to +search for water for them, and, if I cannot find any, to return to the +camp. Started on a south course to examine the country for springs. At +six miles found we were running parallel to sand ridges, and no chance of +water. Changed to 160 degrees, crossed a number of sand ridges, but no +water, except a little rain water that we found in a hole. Proceeded to +the camp, and arrived there about sundown. + +Monday, 7th November, Emerald Springs. Finding that the weevil is at work +with my dried beef, I must remain to-day and put it to rights. Prepared a +package with the fish, etc., to be left for Mr. Barker when he comes +here, to be sent to town. There are fish in this spring about three +inches long. We have also found a cold-water spring among the warm ones. + +Tuesday, 8th November, Emerald Springs. Not being satisfied about one of +the lagoons I saw yesterday, I have sent Kekwick and Muller to see if +there are any springs, while I and the others proceed to the Beresford +Springs; they are to overtake me. Arrived at the springs at 3 p.m. We +could find no fresh water on our way, but plenty of salt and brackish in +the creek which we first struck at six miles from the Emerald Springs. +Sundown: the two men have not come up; they must have found something to +detain them; they had only to do about eight miles more than I had. I +expect they will arrive during the night. + +Wednesday, 9th November, Beresford Springs. No signs of the two men; they +must have stopped at some water during the night. It is very tiresome to +be delayed in this way: what can they be about? At 12 noon they arrived; +they had passed my tracks and gone on to Mount Hugh instead of coming on +here. I will give their horses an hour's rest and go on to the Strangway +Springs. The Paisley Ponds are dry, but there is salt and brackish water +three miles lower down the creek. Started at 2 p.m., and at 5 p.m. +arrived at the springs, which are about ten miles from the Beresford. +They are upon a high hill about one hundred feet above the level of the +plains; there are a great number of them, and abundance of water, but +very much impregnated with salt and soda. My eyes are very bad. + +Thursday, 10th November, Strangway Springs. Suffering very much from bad +eyes and the effects of the water of these springs; cannot help it, but +must go and examine the country to north-west and west. Sent Muller to +the east in search of springs, with instructions to strike my former +tracks and examine all the country between. Started at 7 a.m. with one +man, on a course of 315 degrees, and at one mile crossed a salt creek +with water; at three miles the sand hills commenced, crossing our course +at right angles. At 2 p.m. struck a large lagoon (salt) about two miles +broad and five miles long, running north-east and south-west, narrowing +at the ends; distance, fourteen miles; tried to cross it but found it too +boggy; rounded it on the south-west point, where we discovered a spring; +no surface water, but soft, and the same all round for about two acres +square, covered with grass reeds of a very dark colour and very thick, +showing the presence of water underneath. Proceeded round the lagoon to a +high hill, which seemed to have reeds upon the top of it; after a good +deal of bogging and crossing the bends of the lagoon, we arrived at the +hill, and found it to be very remarkable. Its colour is dark-green from +the reeds and rushes and water-grass which cover it. It is upwards of one +hundred feet high, the lower part red sand; but a little higher up is a +course of limestone. On the top is a black soil, sand and clay, through +and over which the water trickles, and then filters through the sand into +the lagoon. Where the water is, on the top, it is upwards of one hundred +feet long. Immense numbers of tracks of emus and wild dogs, also some +native tracks, all fresh. On the north-west side there is one solitary +gum-tree, and about half a mile in the same direction is another bed of +reeds, and a spring with water in it. All the banks round the lagoon are +of a spongy nature. I am very glad I have found this; it will be another +day's stage with water nearer to the Spring of Hope. We can now make that +in one day, if we can get an early start. By the discovery of springs on +this trip, the road can now be travelled to the furthest water that I saw +on my last trip from Adelaide, and not be a night without water for the +horses. The country to the south and south-east of the last springs +(which I have named the William Springs, after the youngest son of John +Chambers, Esquire), is sand hills and valleys, rich in grass and other +food for cattle. Thence I proceeded to hill bearing 10 degrees south of +north, distant three miles, from the top of which I could see no rising +ground to the westward, nothing but sand hills. Changed my course to +south, to a white place under some stony hills; at ten miles reached it, +and found it to be a salt creek, but no springs. The last ten miles were +through hills not so high as those I crossed on my way out, but more +broken, with plenty of feed. It is my intention to push for the Strangway +Springs tonight, so as to get an early start in the morning. Arrived at +10 p.m., found that one of the horses had not been seen all day; +something always does go wrong when I am away; I shall have to make a +search for him in the morning. My eyes very bad from the effects of the +glare of the sun on the sand hills, and the heat reflected from them, and +that everlasting torment, the flies. + +Friday, 11th November, Strangway Springs. My eyes so bad I cannot see; +unable to go myself in search of the missing horse; despatched two of the +men at daybreak to circuit the spring, and cut her tracks if she has left +them. They have returned, but can see no tracks leaving the spring; she +must be concealed among the reeds; sent three men to examine them. They +found her at 1 p.m. Started at 2 p.m., and arrived at William Springs at +sundown. Distance, fourteen miles. By keeping a little more to the east, +the sand hills can nearly be avoided, and a good road over stony country, +with good feed, can be had to this spring. + +Saturday, 12th November, William Springs. Very unwell, unable to move +to-day; I am almost blind and suffering greatly from the effects of the +water at Strangway Springs. As I wished to examine round this spring, I +remained here to-day; and, as I could not go myself, sent two of the men +in different directions. At sundown they returned, and reported that +there are no springs for ten miles distant from east-south-east to north. +To the east about three miles there is another lagoon resembling this +one, but not so large, and no springs; plenty of grass about a mile from +the lagoon. Saw two natives at a distance, but could not get near them. + +Sunday, 13th November, William Springs. I feel a little better to-day, +but suffer very much from the eyes. I hope I shall be able to travel +to-morrow, for it is misery to remain in camp in the hot weather. +Latitude, 28 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds. Variation, 4 degrees 47 +minutes east. + +Monday, 14th November, William Springs. Started on a course of 317 +degrees for the Hope Springs, and arrived at 5 p.m. I kept to the west in +order to see what the country was in that direction, in the hope of +finding some more springs. At twenty-one miles crossed the Douglas, +coming from north-north-west; the country from it to the north-west and +north looked quite white with quartz, and showed signs of being +auriferous. From the Douglas to north-west the feed was not quite so +plentiful, salt bush with grass, the salt bush predominating; but as we +approached the Spring of Hope it improved, and became good as we neared +the creek. Distance, thirty miles. + +Tuesday, 15th November, Spring of Hope. The spring is still good, +yielding a plentiful supply of water. Sent one of the men to the east and +south-east to examine some white patches of country that I saw on our +journey up here, while I, with one man and two days' provisions, started +south-west to a high and prominent hill in the range. At 11 a.m. arrived +at the top, from which I had a good view of the country all round. It is +a table-topped hill, standing on high table land, which is intersected +with numerous small watercourses, flowing towards the Douglas on the +south and west sides of the mount, which I have named Mount Anna. It is +compound of ironstone, quartz, granite, and a chalky substance, also an +immense quantity of conglomerate quartz and ironstone, which has the +appearance of having been run together in a smelting works. There are +also numerous courses of slate of different descriptions and colours; the +quartz, which exists in white patches, predominates, and gives the +country the appearance of numerous springs. These patches have deceived +me two or three times to-day. At twenty miles the sand hills begin again; +the country being rather poor, with a number of isolated hills, and also +some white chalky cliffs of twenty feet high and upwards. No water nor +appearance of any to the west for a considerable distance. Changed to the +north-west to look at some more white country. I am again disappointed; +it turns out to be quartz with low chalky cliffs, and a large quantity of +igneous stone. Country the same, with salt bush and a little grass in +places. I can see no inducement for me to go further, so I shall return +to the camp. Arrived after dark. My eyes are still very bad, and I suffer +dreadfully from them. To-day has been hot, and the reflection from the +white quartz and the heated stones was almost insufferable: what a relief +it was when the sun went down! Distance, forty-five miles. + +Wednesday, 16th November, Spring of Hope. Still very ill, and unable to +go out myself. Sent Muller to examine the creek nearer Mount Margaret for +water; if he finds any near the mount, I shall move there, as it will be +nearer, for building the cone of stones on the top of the mount, than +Hawker Springs. Shod our horses, and built a small cone of stones on a +reef of rocks that runs along the top of a hill about half a mile +west-north-west from the spring, to which it will act as a land mark. +Muller has returned, and reports having found water in the other creek, +about five miles north-north-west from this; the water is in the centre +of the creek, in three or four holes, some of which are brackish, but one +of them is very good. A number of natives were camped about it, but took +to flight the moment they saw him; he tried to induce them to come near +him, but they would not; they appeared to be very much frightened, and +climbed up the cliffs to get out of his way. Plenty of feed between the +two waters; through the hills there is an abundance. I find the water +discovered to-day (which I have named The George Creek, after G. +Davenport, Esquire), will be of no advantage to me when building the cone +of stones; I shall therefore move to the Hawker Springs to-morrow. + +Thursday, 17th November, Spring of Hope. Arrived at the Hawker Springs at +noon, and commenced the survey. Springs still good; some of them at this +point will require to be opened. We have opened one, and the water is +beautiful. Immense quantities of reeds and rushes. Built a cone of stones +on the hill at the westernmost spring. + +Friday, 18th November, Hawker Springs. Building a cone of stones on the +top of Mount Margaret, and making other preparations for the survey. +To-day very hot, wind south-east; a great deal of lightning to the south. +Obtained bearings of the following points from the hill at Hawker +Springs--namely, Mount Margaret, Mount Younghusband, hill at Parry +Springs, Mount Charles, and Mount Stevenson. + +Saturday, 19th November, Hawker Springs. Sent the party on to Fanny +Springs, where I intend to lay down my base-line. Went with Kekwick to +the top of Mount Margaret. This hill is composed of grey and red granite, +quartz, and ironstone; on the lower hill is a blue and brown stratum. I +then proceeded to examine the creeks running to the east; in following +one of them down we came upon another spring of water, running and very +good. The creek is bounded on both sides for about a mile by nearly +perpendicular cliffs, which appeared to get much lower and broken to the +west. It is situated about one mile north of Mount Margaret, and runs +into the Hawker Springs valley. Could see no more higher up. Followed the +creek down to the opening. Proceeded about half a mile, entered another +gorge, and rode up it about three-quarters of a mile; came upon another +spring, running also, water excellent. Numerous native camps in the +creek. Country the same as in the other creek; cliffs slate and not so +high, but more broken, with watercourses between them, through which +cattle could find their way to the tops of the hills, where there appears +to be plenty of grass; there is also an abundance at the mouth of the +gorge and on the plains. This creek also runs into the valley of the +Hawker Springs. Distance from Mount Margaret, two miles and a half, 8 +degrees east of north. As it was getting towards sunset I found I must +make for the camp, which was about twelve miles off. Arrived after dark. +Springs still as good as when I first saw them. Very tired, having had a +very long day of it. + +Sunday, 20th November, Fanny Springs. Got up at daybreak, and went to the +top of Mount Charles, on which I had ordered the men to build a cone of +stones after their arrival here yesterday. On my return to the camp the +men informed me that Smith had absconded during the night. He generally +made a practice of sleeping some little distance from the others, when I +did not see him lie down; I had checked him for it several times. It did +not appear that he had gone to sleep, but waited an opportunity to steal +away, taking with him the mare which he used to ride, and harness, etc., +also some provisions. As I had started very early to walk to Mount +Charles, his absence was not observed until some time after I had left, +and being detained some hours on the top of the hill, in consequence of +the atmosphere being so thick that I could not obtain my observations, it +was 7 a.m. before I heard of his departure. That moment I sent Kekwick +for my own horse (he being the swiftest), and ordered him to saddle, +mount, pursue, overtake, and bring Smith back; but during the time he was +preparing, I had time to think the matter over, and decided upon not +following him, as it would only knock up my horse and detain me three or +four days. Smith must have started about midnight, for I was up taking +observations from 12.30 a.m. until daybreak, and neither saw nor heard +any one during that time. I could ill afford to lose the time in pursuing +him, situated as I was in the midst of my survey, and he being a lazy, +insolent, good-for-nothing man, and, worse than all, an incorrigible +liar, I could place no dependence upon him. We are better without him; he +has been a very great annoyance and trouble to me from the beginning +throughout the journey. What could have caused him to take such a step I +am at a loss to imagine; he has had no cause to complain of bad treatment +or anything of that sort; he never mentioned such a thing to the other +men, nor was he heard to complain of anything. Such conduct on an +expedition like ours deserves the severest punishment: there is no +knowing what fatal consequences may follow such a cowardly action. Had he +not stolen the mare, I should have cared little about his running away, +but I am short of riding horses and have a great deal for them to do +during the time I am surveying and examining the country. The vagabond +went off just as the heavy work was beginning, and it was principally for +that work that I engaged him. He put on a pair of new boots, leaving +those he had been wearing, evidently intending to push the mare as far as +she would go, expecting he would be pursued, and then leave her and walk +the rest. I expect, when he reaches the settled districts, he will tell +some abominable lie about the matter. If such conduct is not severely +dealt with, no confidence can be placed in any man engaged in future +expeditions. + +Monday, 21st November, Fanny Springs. Kekwick and I commenced chaining +the base-line from the top of Mount Charles, bearing 131 degrees. +Distance chained, four miles thirty chains. I ordered H. Strong to come +to me with two horses, which he did about 1.30 p.m.; we had finished the +line, and were waiting for him. I had seen some country that looked very +much like springs, to the north-east, a mile or so from the line; went to +examine it, and found some splendid springs--one in particular is a very +large fountain, about twenty yards in diameter, quite circular and +apparently very deep, from which there is running a large stream of water +of the very finest description; it is one of the largest reservoirs I +have yet seen, three times the size of the one at the Hamilton Springs, +with abundance of water for any amount of cattle; the water is running a +mile below it. + +Tuesday, 22nd November, Fanny Springs. Engaged chaining the base-line to +north-west. Saw some more springs a mile or two to the east; too tired to +examine them to-day. It is dreadfully hot. Returned to the camp at +sundown. + +Wednesday, 23rd November, Fanny Springs. Finished the remaining part of +base-line. The line is ten miles and forty chains long, crossing the top +of Mount Charles. + +Thursday, 24th November, Fanny Springs. Fixing the angles of runs. Found +another batch of springs close to north-west boundary of large run, +covering four or five acres of ground, with an immense quantity of reeds; +they are not so active as the others. The ground round about is very +soft, and the water is most excellent. After fixing the north-east +corner, I proceeded to examine the country beyond the boundaries of the +runs in search of springs. Having gone several miles north, I saw the +appearance of a lagoon north-east, for which I started, but on my arrival +found no springs round it. Still continued on the same course for a +considerable distance further to a high sand hill, from which we could +see the Neale winding through a broad valley. One part of the creek being +much greener than the other, I went to examine it, and found the green +appearance to be caused by fresh gum-trees, young saplings, rushes, and +other fresh-water plants and bushes. The creek spreads over the plain in +numerous channels, four miles wide, but the main channel has only +gum-trees, with a chain of water holes, some salt, some brackish. By +scratching on the bank where the rushes were growing we got some +beautiful water in the gravel, a few inches below the surface. There was +plenty of feed, and the wild currant, or rather grape, grew in great +abundance, and was very superior to any I had tasted before. There were +two kinds; one grew upon a dark-green bush, and had a tart and saltish +taste, the other grew upon a bush of a much lighter colour, the fruit +round and plump and much superior to the former; in taste it very much +resembled some species of dark grape, only a little more acid. From this +I went in a north-east direction to a mound I had seen on my former +journey, and found it to be hot springs with a large stream of warm water +flowing from them nearly as large as the Emerald Springs, and, as it +seemed to me, warmer. It was a very hot day, and I had been riding fast. +It was as much as I could bear to keep my hand in the spring for a few +minutes, six inches below the surface. I put in a staff about four feet +long, but could find no bottom--nothing but very soft mud; the staff came +up quite hot. It is a very remarkable hill. From the west side it would +be taken for a very high sand hill with scrub growing on it--in fact it +is so. The springs are not seen until the top is reached. From them all +the east side is covered with green reeds to the base of the hill. The +hot springs are near the top, and cold ones on one side to the south; +some at the bottom and some half-way up. There is a large lagoon to the +east, which I will examine when I move the party up to this, for I have +no time to-day. Returned towards the camp and fixed the north-west corner +of the second run; I am obliged to drive pickets into the ground to show +them. I would have built cones of stones, but could get none large enough +to do it with. Arrived at the camp very late; fourteen hours on +horseback. + +Friday, 25th November, Fanny Springs. Started shortly after sunrise to +mark the other two corners of the two runs. On approaching the south-west +angle of the second run (Parry Spring run), I discovered three other +springs close to the boundary of the first run. Two of them are outside, +and one inside, or rather on the boundary. The latter is a large spring, +having seven streams of water coming from it, one large, the others +smaller. The other two have abundance of water, covered with reeds. +Proceeded and marked the other corners, but, having no stones, was +obliged to put down pickets. Returned to camp, keeping outside the south +boundary in search of springs, but found none. Crossed over table land, +salt bush and grass, with stones on the surface. Arrived at the camp a +little before sundown. + +Saturday, 26th November, Fanny Springs. Started for Parry Springs. In the +evening commenced putting up a cone of stones on the northernmost hill. +The day was excessively hot. One great thing here is that the nights are +very cool, so that we are obliged to have a good fire on all night. We +have had one or two warm nights since I have been out this time. I +suppose the reason must be that a large body of water exists in the lake +not far distant from us, the wind coming from north-east. From north-west +to south-south-east the winds are generally cool. It is so cold in the +morning that the men are wearing their top-coats; the day does not get +hot until the sun is a considerable height. + +Sunday, 27th November, Parry Springs. Cold wind this morning from the +east. In the afternoon the sky became overcast, the clouds coming from +the south-east. + +Monday, 28th November, Parry Springs. Building a cone of stones on the +northernmost of the hills, fixing the south-east corner of run Number 2, +and moving to the hot springs. Arrived at sundown. Saw a number of holes +where the natives had been digging for water. Cleaned out one, and found +water at two feet from the surface, above the water in the creek. It is +very good. On examining this spring, I find there is a great deal more +water coming from it than from the Emerald Springs. The hot springs are +on the top of the sand hill, and the cold ones at the foot. There are +large quantities of the wild grape growing here, both red and white. They +are very good indeed, and, if cultivated, would, I think, become a very +nice fruit. + +Tuesday, 29th November, Primrose springs. Surveying run. Sent Muller to +the north to a distant range, and Strong to the north-east to look for +springs. Towards evening both returned without being successful. They +passed over plenty of good feeding country, but the range is high and +stony, with very little grass, only salt bush. It is a continuation of +Hanson range, all table land. + +Wednesday, 30th November, Primrose springs. Surveying, etc. North-east +corner of run Number 2 is about two miles west of the Neale. I scratched +a few inches deep from the surface in the gravel, and found very good +water. The wild grape is in abundance here, and grows as large as the +cultivated one. I have obtained some choice seeds. + +Thursday, 1st December, Primrose springs. At daybreak started with +Kekwick to find the lake on an easterly course, keeping to south of east, +to avoid a soft lagoon. Travelled over a fair salt-bush and grass +country, with stones on the surface. In places the grass is abundant, +though dry. At seven miles the sand hills commenced; they are low, with +broad valleys between, covered with stone. On the sand hills there was +plenty of grass, and numerous native and emu tracks going towards the +Neale, which is to the south of us. At fourteen miles struck a gum creek +with salt water. Searched for springs, but could find none with +fresh-water. Continued on a course east over sand hills and stony plain, +and at twenty miles crossed the Neale. It is very broad, with numerous +channels. In the main one there was plenty of water, but it was very +brackish. We scratched a hole on the bank about two feet from the salt +water, and found plenty of good water at six inches from the surface, of +which our horses drank very readily. This seems to be the mode in which +the natives obtain good water in a dry season like this. The emus and +other birds also adopt the same plan. An immense quantity of water must +come down this creek at times. The drift stuff was upwards of thirteen +feet high in the gum-trees. A number of native tracks all about the +creek, quite fresh, but we could not see any one. After giving our horses +as much water as they would drink, we crossed the creek, which now runs +north, and proceeded, still on our easterly course, over stony plains for +four miles, then over sand hills, which continued to the lake, which we +struck at thirty-five miles. The atmosphere is so thick, it is impossible +to say what it is like to-night. Camped without water under a high sand +hill, so that I may have a good view of the lake in the morning. I like +not the appearance of it to-night; I am afraid we are going to lose it. + +Friday, 2nd December, Lake Torrens. Got up at the first peep of day and +ascended the sand hill. I fear my conjecture of last night is too true. I +can see a small dark line of low land all round the horizon. The line of +blue water is very small. So ends Lake Torrens! Started on a course of 30 +degrees west of north to where the Neale empties itself into the lake. At +seven miles struck it; found plenty of water, but very salt, with +pelicans and other water-birds upon it. Traversed the creek to the +south-west in search of water for the horses. At five miles came upon a +number of water-bushes growing on the banks of a large brackish water +hole. Scraped a hole about two feet from the bad water, and got good +water six inches from the surface for ourselves and horses. Gave them an +hour's rest and started on a west course for the camp, where we arrived +at 9.30 p.m. The country was similar to that on our outward route; feed +more abundant. At sundown we crossed the broad channel of a creek, with +moisture in the centre. Having neither time nor light to examine it +to-night, I must do so to-morrow, as I think there must be springs to +supply the moisture. + +Saturday, 3rd December, Primrose Springs. Sent Kekwick to examine the +creek we crossed last night. I cannot go myself, for my eyes are so very +bad I can scarcely see anything. This is the first time I have had such a +long continuance of this complaint. I am trying every remedy I can +imagine, but each seems to have very little or no effect. At sundown +Kekwick returned, and reported having found the springs which supply the +creek, but they are salter than the sea, or the strongest brine that ever +was made. He brought in a fine sample of crystal of salt, which he got +from under the water, attached to the branch of a bush which had blown +into it. The creek is the upper part of the first gum creek crossed +yesterday, and flows into the Neale, which accounts for the water being +so salt at the mouth of it. No fresh-water springs to be seen round +about. + +Sunday, 4th December, Primrose Springs. Examining the Neale for +fresh-water springs. The water holes are abundant, but all more or less +brackish; plenty of rushes on the banks, where fresh water can be had by +scratching a little below the surface. I have not the least doubt but +there will be plenty of fresh water on the surface for a long time after +the creek comes down and sweeps all the soda and salt into the lake. It +is the rapid evaporation that causes it to be so brackish, and I should +think the consumption by stock would make a great improvement in it; +there would not be so much of it exposed to the sun, and the evaporation +would be much less. After considering the matter of having seen the +northern boundary of Lake Torrens, I am inclined to think I have been in +error. What I have taken for the lake may have been a large lagoon, which +receives the waters of the Neale before going into the large lake: I must +examine it again. After my surveys are completed, I shall move my party +down the creek to where we found the good water, and from there see what +it really is. I cannot bring my mind to think it is the northern boundary +of the lake. + +Monday, 5th December, Primrose Springs. Moved the party down to the South +Parry Springs. My eyes are still very bad. + +Tuesday, 6th December, South Parry Springs. Shortly after daybreak +started for Louden Springs, taking different courses, in search of more +springs, but can find none. Examined the George Creek, where the small +run is to be laid off; found some good water by scratching in the creek, +where there are plenty of rushes. A little before sundown we arrived at +the springs. I did not observe before that the higher springs on the top +of the hill are warm, but not nearly so hot as the others; the lower ones +are cold. Some other party has been here; we have seen their fresh tracks +and the place where they have camped; they seem to have been wandering +about a good deal before they found these springs. + +Wednesday, 7th December, Louden Springs. Went to the top of Mount +Stevenson, built a cone of stones, and obtained bearings to fix it. No +appearance of any springs to the east of this, nor of the lake. + +Thursday, 8th December, Louden Springs. Surveying and building +trigonometrical station on a light-coloured hill to the south of this. My +eyes very bad; can scarcely see; can do nothing. + +Friday, 9th December, Louden Springs. Nearly blind; dreadful pain; can do +nothing to-day; no sleep last night. + +Saturday, 10th December, Louden Springs. All yesterday the wind was hot +and strong from west and north-west; heavy clouds from south and +south-west. In the evening the wind changed to south. This morning still +the same; heavy clouds from same direction. My eyes are a little better, +so that I shall be able to do something. The sky being overcast I shall +put up some of the corners of this run. + +Sunday, 11th December, Louden Springs. Still cloudy, but no rain. + +Monday, 12th December, Louden Springs. Still very cloudy; wind south; +heavy clouds to north-west; no rain. Finishing the east boundary of +Number 3 run. Can find no more springs in or about this run. At sundown +still very cloudy, but no rain. + +Tuesday, 13th December, Louden Springs. Started at 7.15 a.m. to find the +lake on an east course. The horses being a long distance off, it was late +before they came up. At nine miles crossed the gum creek running north, +spread out in a broad valley into numerous courses rich in food for +cattle. At twelve miles sand hills commenced, and continued to the shores +of the lake, with broad stony plains between, and plenty of grass. At +twenty miles crossed the Douglas, running north through sand hills in a +broad valley divided into numerous courses, with dwarf gum-trees, mallee, +tea-tree, and numerous other bushes; the bed sandy, and no water. At +thirty-five miles struck the lake where the Douglas joins it. The country +travelled over to-day has been stony plain (undulating), and low sand +hills, with abundance of feed, but no water. There is some water at the +mouth of the Douglas, but it is salter than the sea. The water in the +lake seems to be a long distance off, but the mirage is so very strong +that I can form no opinion of it to-night. This seems also a bay I have +got into. There is a point of land to the south bearing 25 degrees east +of south, and the other bearing 25 degrees east of north. Searched about +for water, but could find none. Camped in the creek without any. The +country at this part is very low, and nearly on a level with the lake. +The only sand hill I shall be able to get a view from is not above thirty +feet high. At sundown I got on the top of the sand hill, but could see +nothing distinctly; must wait until morning. This creek seems to be very +little frequented by natives; can see very few tracks and no worleys. + +Wednesday, 14th December, Lake Torrens. At the first dawn of day I got to +the top of the hill, and remained there some time after sunrise. To the +south-east there is the appearance of a point of land, which I suppose to +be the island which I saw when I first struck the lake. There is the +appearance of water between. A little more to the eastward I can see +nothing but horizon. To the east there is again the appearance of very +low distant land--a mere dark line when seen through a powerful +telescope. To the north of that there is nothing visible but the horizon, +with a blue and white streak between. To the north-north-east beyond the +point, a little low land is to be seen running out from the point, with +water in the far distance. Rode down to the beach to see what that was +composed of; found it to be sand, mud and gravel; firm ground next the +shore. Tried a little distance with the horses, but found it too soft to +proceed with them. I then dismounted, and tried it on foot, but could +only get about two miles; it became so soft, that I was sinking to the +ankles, and the clay was so very tenacious that it completely tired me +before I got back to the horses. The quantity of salt was not so great +here as at the first place I examined. What I thought was a point of land +bearing north-north-east turns out to be an island, which I can see from +here. The point of the bay is north from where I took the bearings. +Between the island and the point I can see nothing but horizon; too low +to see any water. Traced the creek up for seven miles in search of water +or springs, but could see none, nor any indications. Had breakfast, and +started on a course of 20 degrees north of west in search of water or +springs. Crossed the Davenport and ascended a low range, but still could +not see any indications of water; the country similar to that passed over +yesterday. Changed my bearing towards the camp, and arrived there a +little before sundown. The horses were very thirsty, and drank an awful +quantity of water, but being hot it will do them no harm. It is +remarkable that to east of the hot springs I can find no others. This is +the third time I have tried it, and been unsuccessful. I am almost afraid +that the next time I try the lake I shall not find the north boundary of +it. Where can all this water drain to? It is a mystery. + +Thursday, 15th December, Louden Springs. Surveyed run Number 4, and sent +Kekwick to correct observations from Mount Stevenson. + +Friday, 16th December, Louden Springs. Finished Number 4 run. To-day we +have discovered a large fresh-water hole in a creek joining the George +and coming from the south-west. The water seems to be permanent; it is +half a mile long and seems to be deep. On the banks a number of natives +have been encamped; round about their fires were large quantities of the +shells of the fresh-water mussel, the fish from which they had been +eating: I should think this a very good proof of the water being +permanent. After finishing the survey I followed the creek up for a +number of miles in search of more water, but could find none. It spread +into a number of courses over a large plain, on which there was splendid +feed. + +Saturday, 17th December, Louden Springs. Started for the springs under +Mount Margaret to finish the western boundary of Number 1 run. Arrived +towards sundown. Found the creek occupied by natives, who, as soon as +they caught sight of us, bolted to the hill and got upon the top of a +high cliff, and there remained for some time, having a good view of us. I +did everything in my power to induce them to come down to us, but they +would not, and beckoned us to be off back the road we came. At night they +had fires round us, but at some distance off. + +Sunday, 18th December, Mount Margaret. About 9 a.m. the natives made +their appearance on the hill, and made signs for us to be off; they were +eight in number. I found that we had camped close to a large quantity of +acacia seed that they had been preparing when we arrived, but had no time +to carry it away before we were on them. One old fellow was very +talkative. I went towards them to try and make friends with them, but +they all took to the hills. By signs I induced the old fellow to stop, +and in a short time got him to come a little nearer. When I came to the +steep bank of the creek he made signs for me to come no further. I showed +him I had no arms with me, and wished him to come up. I could understand +him so far that he wished us to go away, that they might get their seed. +I thought it as well not to aggravate them, but to show them that we came +as friends; and as I had completed all I had to do here, I moved the camp +towards the Freeling Springs, at which they seemed very glad, and made +signs for us to come back at sundown. They seemed to be a larger race +than those down below; the men are tall and muscular, the females are low +in stature and thin. I examined the Mount Margaret range in going along; +there are a number of gum creeks coming from the north side which flow +into the Neale. We searched them up and down, but could find no water. +The number of channels that join them in the range is so great that it +would take weeks to examine them minutely for water. We camped in one of +them without water, although the country promises well for it. + +Monday, 19th December, Gum Creek. Started on a north-west course to +examine the country between this and the Mount Younghusband range. We +could see no springs until we reached the Blyth, in which there is water, +but a little brackish; it will do well for cattle. Rode through the +middle of the range, and came upon some horse-tracks, not very old; saw +where the party had camped, and a cairn of stones they had erected on the +top of one of the hills. Followed their tracks some distance down the +gully; they seemed to be going to the Burrow Springs; they appear, +however, to have gone back again. Left the tracks, and proceeded to the +Freeling Springs. Arrived there in the afternoon. No one has been here +since I was, as far as I can see. The country we have passed over +yesterday and to-day has been really splendid for feed. The springs +continue the same, running in a strong stream and of the finest quality. + +Tuesday, 20th December, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and one of the men +to examine the goldfield, and to select a place for sinking to-morrow +morning. My eyes were so bad that I was unable to go. They returned in +the afternoon, bringing with them samples from the quartz reefs, in which +there was the appearance of gold. Kekwick said he had not seen such good +quartz since he left the diggings in Victoria. There was every indication +of gold, and I determined to give the place a good trial before leaving +it. + +Wednesday, 21st December, Freeling Springs. Commenced digging, but found +the rocks too near. Surface indications were very slight here, but I +found another place which seemed to promise better, so began sinking +there, and at four feet came upon some large boulders, round which was +very good-looking stuff for washing; took some of it to camp and washed +it. No gold, but good indications; a quantity of black sand and emery, +also other good signs. I shall continue the hole, and see what is in the +bottom. Thunderstorm this afternoon; south-west hot wind. + +Thursday, 22nd December, Freeling Springs. Occupied in sinking, but made +little progress in consequence of the stones being so large, and the want +of proper tools, crowbar, etc. Washed some more stuff from round about +the boulders; the produce same as yesterday; no gold. + +Friday, December 23rd, Freeling Springs. Found that we could do nothing +with the stones with the tools we have. Examined the country round about, +and found another place, which will be commenced to-morrow. Examined a +quartz reef which had every indication of gold. I regretted that I had +not another man, so that I might be able to examine the country for some +distance round. It is necessary to have two men at the camp, which cannot +be moved to where we are sinking, as there is no water within two miles. +It would not be safe to leave the camp with one man only, and two +digging, which is all our strength. Heavy thunderstorm from the +south-west, but very little rain. The wind blew my tent in two. At +sundown it passed over and cleared up, which I regretted to see, as I +expected heavy rains at this season, to enable me to make for the north +or north-west. + +Saturday, 24th December, Freeling Springs. Sank upwards of six feet +through gravel, shingle, stones, and quartz. Wind south-west. Heavy +clouds; wind hot. + +Sunday, 25th December, Freeling Springs. Wind south; heavy clouds, but no +rain; towards evening changed to south-east. Cool. + +Monday, 26th December, Freeling Springs. Got to the bottom of the hole; +washed the stuff, but no gold. Commenced another hole by the side of the +quartz reef, which looks well. In the morning the wind was from the +north; at 10 a.m. it suddenly changed to south, and blew a perfect +hurricane during the whole day, with heavy clouds; but no rain has +fallen. + +Tuesday, 27th December, Freeling Springs. The storm continued during the +night, until about 3 o'clock this morning, when a few drops of rain fell, +but not enough to be of any service to me. Bottomed the hole by the side +of the quartz reef: no gold, and I think we shall not be able to sink any +more; our tools are getting worn out. For the rest of the day examined +the quartz reef, in which there is every appearance of gold; I shall stop +the search for it and proceed to the north-east to-morrow, for I think +some rain has fallen in that direction, which will enable me to examine +the country and see if the lake still continues. + +Wednesday, 28th December, Freeling Springs. At 7 a.m. started with +Kekwick on a north-east course. At seven miles crossed the Neale, spread +over a large grassy plain four miles broad, and ascended a low ridge of +table-topped hills, stony, with salt-bush and grassed. Crossed another +creek, at twenty miles, with myall and stunted gums running over a plain +in numerous courses. Plenty of grass but no water. After crossing it, +ascended a high peak, which I supposed to be the top of the Hanson range, +but found another long table-topped hill, higher, about three miles +distant. Ascended that, but could see nothing but more table-topped +ranges in the distance. This hill is thirty-five miles from Freeling +Springs. Searched for water, and after some time found a little water in +one of the creeks, where we camped, it being after sundown. The country +from the last creek is not so good, and very stony, so much so that it +has lamed my horse, and nearly worn his shoes through at the tips. The +horses have drunk all the water, and left none for the morning. + +Thursday, 29th December, Hanson Range. Started at 6 a.m. on the same +course for another part of the range. At six miles crossed a grassy creek +of several channels, with myall and gum, but no water, running to +north-east, nearly along our line. At seventeen miles struck the same +creek again where it is joined with several others coming from the +west-north-west and north. They are spread over a large broad plain +covered with grass. Searched for water, but could not find any. Crossed +the plains and creeks to a white hill on a north course, and at three +miles reached the top; it was a low chalky cliff on the banks of the +creek. Changed our course to the first hill I had taken. At seven miles +and a half reached the top, which I found very stony. To the north can be +seen the points of three other table-topped hills; to the north-east is a +large stony plain about ten miles broad, beyond which are high sand +hills, and beyond them again, in the far distance, is the luminous +appearance of water. Not being on the highest part of the range I +proceeded two miles to the south-east to get a better view. From here we +could see the creek, winding in a south-east direction, until it reached +the lake, which seemed to be about twenty-five miles off. We could not +distinctly see it, the mirage and sand hills obscuring our view. My horse +having lost both his fore shoes and there being no prospect of water +further on, I was reluctantly obliged to return to the camp. We had seen +a little rain water on the plain, about seven miles back, at which we +decided to camp to-night. Arrived there a little before sundown. My horse +very lame, scarcely able to walk along the stones. I am disappointed that +there is not more rain water; there seems only to have been a slight +shower. + +Friday, 30th December, Hanson Range. The horses having strayed some +distance, we did not get a start till half-past seven on a course of 323 +degrees, to a white hill, to see whether there are any springs on the +other side; at one mile and a half reached it, but no springs. Changed +our course to a very prominent hill (which I have named Mount Arthur) +bearing 275 degrees, and after crossing two small myall creeks and a +stony plain with salt bush and grass, at ten miles we struck a large +myall and gum creek, coming from the north-west, with some very deep +channels. We went some miles up it, but could find no water, the courses +for the water being too sandy and gravelly to retain it. At twenty-four +miles from the last hill arrived at the summit of Mount Arthur. Changed +course to 195 degrees. At ten miles struck another myall and gum creek of +the same description as the others, coming from the range; no water. +Camped. My horse is nearly done up; I am almost afraid he will not be +able to reach the camp to-morrow. + +Saturday, 31st December, Hanson Range. Started shortly after daybreak for +the camp. At fifteen miles struck another myall and gum creek running +into the Neale, and at twenty miles came upon the Neale, which is here +three miles broad. Here we saw some recent native tracks and places where +fires had been. Arrived at the camp at sundown; horses quite done up. I +am sorry that I have been unable to make the lake on this journey; I +could have done it, but should most likely have had to leave my horse; he +never could have done it. I should then have been obliged to walk the +distance back, with all the water dried up. Had I seen the least +indication of water on ahead, I should have gone. + +Sunday, 1st January, 1860, Freeling Springs. In the afternoon it became +cloudy. Wind north. No rain. + +Monday, 2nd January, Freeling Springs. Having observed a hill on Saturday +that seemed to me a spring, where the Neale comes through the range, I +sent Kekwick to examine it, my eyes being too bad. Sent Muller to examine +some more quartz reefs in which I think gold exists. Towards sundown he +returned with two good specimens, in which I am almost sure there is +gold. The reef is twelve feet wide. Shortly after, Kekwick returned and +reported springs and two large water holes, and numerous smaller ones, +with abundance of permanent water, although slightly brackish. I shall +move up and fix their position as soon as I am satisfied with the search +for gold. + +Tuesday, 3rd January, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and Muller to get +some more specimens of quartz. They returned with some in which there +were very good indications of gold. It was useless for us to try any +more, our tools being of no use. The reefs would require to be blasted. I +am afraid there will be no surfacing here. I have done all that lies in +my power to get at the gold; but without proper tools we can do nothing, +so I shall be obliged to give it up, and start to-morrow for the Neale, +to where I sent Kekwick yesterday. + +Wednesday, 4th January, Freeling Springs. Started at 8 a.m., and arrived +in about thirteen miles. The large water hole is upwards of a mile long, +with fully forty yards of water: in width, from bank to bank, it is +seventy yards, and upwards of fifteen feet deep; there are large mussel +shells on the banks, and plenty of good feed. All round to the south +there are low sand hills covered with grass. To the east, in some places, +it is stony, with salt-bush, and many broad well-grassed valleys coming +from the Mount Kingston range. About a quarter of a mile to the west of +the large hole there is a course of springs coming from the Kingston +Hills and sand hills, and emptying themselves into the creek. The water +is delicious, and plentiful, and, if opened, these springs will yield an +ample supply for all purposes. To the west are hills, with the creek +coming through them, with water all the way up to where I crossed it in +my return last trip. To the north are stony undulating rises, with +salt-bush and grass. + +Thursday, 5th January, The Neale. Examining the country round to the +north and round Mount Harvey. It is poor and stony. On the eastern and +northern sides it becomes bad at three miles from the creek. The country +in the other directions is good, and will make a first-rate run. This, in +connexion with the Mildred and McEllister Springs, will feed any number +of cattle. + +Friday, January 6th, The Neale. As my rations are now drawing to a close +(for we started with provisions only for three months, and have been out +now for three months and more), I must sound a retreat to get another +supply at Chambers Creek. It was my intention to have sent two men down +for them, but I am sorry to say that I have lost confidence in all except +Kekwick. I cannot trust them to be sent far, nor dare I leave them with +our equipment and horses while Kekwick and I go for the provisions. +Situated as I am with them, I must take all the horses down; and if I can +get men to replace them at Chambers Creek, I will send them about their +business. They have been a constant source of annoyance to me from the +very beginning of my journey. The man that I had out with me on my last +journey has been the worst of the two. They seem to have made up their +minds to do as little as possible, and that in the most slovenly and lazy +manner imaginable. They appear to take no interest in the success of the +expedition. I have talked to them until I am completely wearied out; +indeed, I am surprised that I have endured it so long. Many a one would +have discharged them, and sent them back walking to Adelaide; in fact, I +had almost made up my mind to do so from here, and to run the chance of +getting others at Mr. Barker's. Although they have behaved so badly, and +so richly deserve to be punished (for they have taken advantage of me +when I could get no others to supply their places), I could not find in +my heart to do it. Kekwick is everything I could wish a man to be. He is +active, pushing, and persevering. At any time, and at any moment, he is +always ready, and takes a pleasure in doing all that lies in his power to +forward the expedition. Would that the two others were like him! I should +then have no trouble at all. Started at 7 a.m. on my return on a +south-east course, and camped at a small spring on the east side of Mount +Younghusband. Distance, twenty miles. + +Saturday, 7th January, Mount Younghusband. Started at 7 a.m. for the +Milne Springs, where I shall remain for a day or two to get all the +horses fresh shod, and leave what things I do not require, intending to +get them on my return. Arrived there at 11 o'clock. Found the water much +the same as it was when I first saw it. + +Sunday, 8th January, Milne Springs. Severe attack of lumbago. Sun hot; +but cool breeze from south-east. + +Monday, 9th January, Milne Springs. Unable to ride, so I was obliged to +send Kekwick and one of the men to the westward. This was a great +disappointment to me, as I should like to have seen the country myself to +have connected it with my farthest north-west point on my first journey. +The other man was shoeing the horses. Sun hot. Cool breeze from +south-east. Very cold night and morning. + +Tuesday, 10th January, Milne Springs. Latitude, 28 degrees 15 minutes 45 +seconds. Shoeing horses. Flies a great trouble; can do nothing for them. +If they are allowed to remain a moment on the eye, it swells up +immediately, and is very painful. Kekwick and the other man returned at 9 +o'clock p.m. They report having found two springs, one about nine miles +west, and the other about thirty miles, in a large spring country, which +they had not time to examine well. Although I am so unwell, I must start +to-morrow and see what it is. Judging from their description, there must +be something good; and I cannot leave without seeing it, although my +provisions are nearly done. + +Wednesday, 11th January, Milne Springs. Shortly after sunrise started +with Kekwick on a west course for the larger spring country, leaving the +near one until our return. At eleven miles and a half crossed the Blyth, +coming from the south. At twenty-eight miles reached the spring country. +Changed to 150 degrees, and at two miles camped at the spring. The +springy place has the appearance of a large salt lagoon, three miles +broad and upwards of eight miles long. At the south end of it is a creek +with brackish water, and on its banks are the springs, the water from +which is very good; they are not running. + +Thursday, 12th January, West Springs. There are a number of natives at +these springs. We have seen their smoke, and both old and recent tracks. +Started on a south course. At four miles and a half came upon a creek, +with reeds and brackish water, running a little to the west of north. +Traced it down for upwards of a mile and a half. Saw that it ran into the +swamp west of where we struck it. Could see no springs upon its banks. +Returned to the place where we first struck it, and proceeded a mile on a +course of 120 degrees to three large patches of very green reeds, which +turned out to be eight feet high. Could find no surface water except what +was brackish. The country was moist all round. Thence on the same bearing +for two miles. Sent Kekwick to examine some places that looked like +springs. They were in the middle of a large salt lagoon, having a crust +of limestone, under which the water was, and if broken open, in many +places where there was no sign of water, a beautiful supply could be +obtained. Changed to 245 degrees, and, at about fifteen miles, changed to +90 degrees, through sand hills. We have seen many places where water can +be obtained at a few inches below the surface. Camped at the spring. Feel +very ill; can scarcely sit on my horse. + +Friday, 13th January, West Springs. Being anxious to see the nature of +the country between this and the Mount Margaret range, I started at 6.30 +on a course of 110 degrees over occasional sand hills and stony places, +with splendid feed. At ten miles and a half reached a stony rise, and +changed my course to 76 degrees, for five miles, to a black hill composed +of ironstone. Changed to 105 degrees, for one mile, to examine a white +place coming down from the range, which had the appearance of springs, +but found it to be composed of white quartz. Changed again to 50 degrees +to a rough hill, which had also the appearance of springs. At two miles +crossed the bed of the Blyth, which takes its rise in the range. No water +in it, but loose sand and gravel. At seven miles reached the rough hill, +after crossing three small tributaries; was disappointed in not finding +water. Ascended the hill, from which we had a good view of the +surrounding country, but see no indications of water. I must now make for +the second spring found by my men three days ago. Course north, over +stony hills and table land, in which I crossed my former tracks going to +the Freeling Springs. Arrived at the spring at 7.30 p.m. All of us, men +and horses, very tired. + +Saturday, 14th January, Springs South of Mount Younghusband. Examined the +spring, and found it to be a very good one; it is situated near the banks +of the Blyth, on the same spongy ground that I discovered last time, and +which was marked off as a run. Searched about, and found two more good +springs. There was plenty of water in the creek, but the dry season had +made it brackish. Discovered a spring in one of the creeks that runs east +from Mount Margaret. The natives had cleared it out, and the water, which +was very good, was about two feet from the surface. In the other two +creeks we also found springs which only required opening. I then made for +the camp, where I found everything all right. + +Sunday, 15th January, Milne Springs. Preparing for a start to-morrow for +Chambers Creek, by way of Louden Springs; I must endeavour to find some +more springs, for I am not quite satisfied yet about that country. Very +much annoyed by the misconduct of the two men I left behind at the camp; +they have had the impertinence to open my plan-case, and have so damaged +my principal plan with their hot moist hands, that I know not what to do +with it. This is not the first time they have done it. + +Monday, 16th January, Milne Springs. Started at 7.10 a.m. on a bearing of +138 degrees 30 minutes. At about twenty-two miles struck four other +springs, beyond the Messrs. Levi's boundary; from one of them there is a +strong stream of water flowing. They are almost completely hidden, and +one cannot see them until almost on the top of them. I have taken +bearings to fix them, and have named them Kekwick Springs. Five o'clock +p.m. Arrived at Louden Springs. Distance, thirty-one miles. + +Tuesday, 17th January, Louden Springs. Started shortly after daybreak, on +a course of 110 degrees, over as fine a grass country as I have yet +travelled over. At sixteen miles crossed the Douglas, running through +sand hills covered with grass, but no water, nor any signs of springs. +Proceeded in the same direction for eight miles, when we were stopped by +a lagoon. Changed my course to south-south-west to a hill that had the +appearance of water, but found beyond it another large dry lagoon, on the +banks of which we saw the tracks of a single horse crossing the end of +the lagoon, and steering for Lake Torrens; they seemed to be about two +months old. Can they be the tracks of that infatuated man who left me on +the 20th of November? In all probability he has lost my downward track +and himself also. They are only about two miles to the east of mine. +Camped without water on a sand hill. + +Wednesday, 18th January, Sand Hill. Started shortly after daybreak on a +south-south-east course, still in search of springs (crossing my outward +track of last journey), at a place where I thought it most likely for +them, but was unsuccessful. If I could have found one here, I should have +gone direct to the Emerald Springs, but the horses would suffer very much +if they were to be another night without water; the food is so dry, and +the weather so hot, they cannot endure more than two days and one night +without it. Changed my course to Strangway Spring. Arrived there at 2.30. +Some of the horses very much done up. Camped, and gave them the rest of +the day to recruit. + +Thursday, 19th January, Strangway Springs. Started for the Beresford +Springs. At nine miles and a half arrived there; and, at eight miles +beyond, made the Hamilton Springs, where we camped for the night. + +Friday, 20th January, Hamilton Springs. Started by way of the Emerald +Springs, to see if Mr. Barker's party is there, or if any person had been +there and got the parcel, and forwarded it to Mr. Chambers. Arrived at +the springs, and found that some one had got it. Mr. B.'s party had gone. +Went on to Chambers Creek, and found them there. + +Saturday, 21st January, Chambers Creek. Here we found provisions awaiting +us, as we expected; but the two men still exhibit a spirit of +non-compliance, and refuse to proceed again to the north-west; they are +bent upon leaving me and returning to Adelaide although they know that +there are no men here to supply their places. They have demanded their +wages and a discharge, which, under all the circumstances of the case, +and considering how badly they have served me, I feel myself justified in +withholding. I shall therefore be compelled to send Kekwick down as far +as Mr. Chambers' station with my despatches, etc., and to procure other +assistance. This will be a great loss of time and expense, which the +wages these men have forfeited by not fulfilling their agreements will +ill repay. Here we heard of the man Smith, who, it seems, left the mare, +whether dead or alive we know not at present. He was lost for four days +without water (according to his own account), and, after various +adventures, and picking up sundry trifles from different travelling +parties, who relieved him out of compassion, reached the settled +districts in a most forlorn condition. Mr. Barker had left his station +some three weeks before we arrived. + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION--FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE +CONTINENT. FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860. + +Friday, 2nd March, 1860, Chambers Creek. Left the creek for the +north-west, with thirteen horses and two men. The grey horse being too +weak to travel was left behind. Camped at Hamilton Springs. + +Saturday, 3rd March, Mount Hamilton. Camped at the Beresford Springs, +where it was evident that the natives, whose camp is a little way from +this, had had a fight. There were the remains of a body of a very tall +native lying on his back. The skull was broken in three or four places, +the flesh nearly all devoured by the crows and native dogs, and both feet +and hands were gone. There were three worleys on the rising ground, with +waddies, boomerangs, spears, and a number of broken dishes scattered +round them. The natives seemed to have run away and left them, or to have +been driven away by a hostile tribe. Between two of the worleys we +observed a handful of hair, apparently torn from the skull of the dead +man, and a handful of emu feathers placed close together, the feathers to +the north-west, the hair to the south-east. They were between two pieces +of charred wood, which had been extinguished before the feathers and hair +were placed there. It seemed to be a mark of some description. + +Sunday, 4th March, Beresford Springs. Night and morning cold; day very +hot. Wind south-west. + +Monday, 5th March, Beresford Springs. Wind changed to the east during the +night. Morning very cold. Arrived at the Strangway Springs. Day very hot. +Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 6th March, Strangway Springs. Very hot during the night. Made +William Springs and camped. The day exceedingly hot, wind south-west, in +which direction a heavy bank of clouds arose about noon; in the evening +there was a great deal of lightning, and apparently much rain falling +there, but none came down our way. + +Wednesday, 7th March, William Springs. The night very hot and cloudy, +with the wind from the west, but without rain. Started for Louden Spa,* +(* The Louden Springs of the two last expeditions.) the first few miles +being over low sand rises and broad valleys of light sandy soil, with +abundance of dry grass; by keeping a little more to the north-west the +sand rises can be avoided. At seven miles we struck a swamp, but could +see no springs. On approaching the Douglas the country becomes more +stony, and continues so to the Spa, where we camped. + +Thursday, 8th March, Louden Spa. Cold wind this morning from the +south-east; the clouds are gone. Camped at Hawker Springs. + +Friday, 9th March, Hawker Springs. Very cold last night. Wind from the +south. During the day it changed to the south-east, and the sun was very +hot. Camped at the Milne Springs, and found the articles we had left* +there all right (* See last expedition.); the natives had opened the +place where we had put them, but had taken nothing. + +Saturday, 10th March, Milne Springs. At half past 11 last night it began +to rain, and continued doing so nearly all day. Wind south-east. + +Sunday, 11th March, Milne Springs. About 10 o'clock last night we were +flooded with water, although upon rising ground, and were obliged to move +our camp to the top of a small hill. It rained all night and morning, but +there are signs of a break in the clouds. During the day it has rained at +intervals. The creek is coming down very rapidly, covering all the valley +with a sheet of water. + +Monday, 12th March, Milne Springs. A few heavy showers during the night, +but now there seems a chance of a fine day, which will enable us to get +our provisions dried again. The country is so boggy that I cannot proceed +to-day, but if it continues fair I shall attempt it to-morrow morning. +This rain is a great boon to me, as it will give me both feed and water +for my horses, and if it has gone to the north-west it will save me a +great deal of time looking for water. + +Tuesday, 13th March, Milne Springs. Started for Freeling Springs. The +country in some places is very soft, but the travelling is better than I +expected. As we approached the Denison ranges the rain did not seem to +have been so heavy, but when we came to the Peake, we found it running +bank high, and very boggy. Impossible to cross it here, so I shall follow +it up in a west-south-west direction. Camped at Freeling Springs. + +Wednesday, 14th March, Freeling Springs. Started on a course a little to +the south of west, to try and find a crossing-place. At two miles it +turned a little to the north of west, but at ten miles it turned to the +south-west, and was running very rapidly, about five miles an hour. I was +obliged to stop at this point, as I could not cross the creek, the banks +being so boggy. I have discovered another spring at eleven miles on the +same bearing as the Freeling Springs, but I cannot get to it. From here +it has the appearance of being very good; a hill covered with reeds at +the top, the creek running round the east side of it. I shall endeavour +to cross to-morrow and examine it. + +Thursday, 15th March, The Peake. The creek being still impassable, I +remained here another day. Yesterday the horse that was carrying my +instruments broke away from the man who was leading him, burst the +girths, and threw the saddlebags on the ground. The instruments were very +much injured, in fact very nearly ruined; the sextant being put out of +adjustment, has taken me all day to repair, and I am not sure now whether +it is correct or not. It is a great misfortune. Wind north; clouds +north-east. + +Friday, 16th March, The Peake. Saddled and started to cross the Peake +about three miles to the south-west, but had a fearful job in doing so, +the banks being so boggy, and the current so strong. The horses could +hardly keep on their feet, and most of them were up to their +saddle-flaps, and some under water altogether. One poor old fellow we +were obliged to leave in it, as he was unable to get out, and we were +unable to help him, although we tried for hours. He is of very little use +to me, for he has never recovered his trip to Moolloodoo and back. He has +had nothing to carry since we started, and seemed to be improving every +day. I wish now that I had left him at Chambers Creek along with the +grey, but as he looked in better condition, I thought he would mend on +the journey, and I intended him to bring the horses in every morning, +when we got further out. We have been from 10 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. in +getting across, including the time spent in trying to extricate Billy. I +cannot proceed further to-day, and have therefore camped on the west side +of the springs that we saw from the last encampment, which I named +Kekwick Springs. There are six springs. The largest one will require to +be opened; the reeds on it are very thick, and from ten to twelve feet in +height. We tried again to get the horse on shore, but could not manage +it; the more we try to extricate him, the worse he gets. I have left him; +I do not think he will survive the night. It is now sundown, and raining +heavily; the night looks very black and stormy. Wind from the south-west. + +Saturday, 17th March, Kekwick Springs. About 8 o'clock last evening the +wind changed to the north-west, and we had some very heavy rain, which +lasted the greater part of the night. Early in the morning the wind +changed again to the south-east, with occasional showers. At sunrise it +looked very stormy. I must be off as soon as possible out of this boggy +place. The old horse is still alive, but very weak. The water has lowered +during the night. If no more rain falls to the south-west it will soon be +dry, when he may have a chance of getting out. I cannot remain longer to +assist him; it would only be putting the rest of my horses in danger. I +would have remained here to-day to have dried my provisions, but the +appearance of the weather will not allow me. They must take their chance. +Started on a north-west course for the Neale. At fifteen miles struck it, +and changed to the west to a creek coming south from the stony rises. The +banks of the Neale are very boggy. The first four miles to-day were along +the top of a sandy rise, with swampy flats on each side, with a number of +reeds growing in them, also rushes and water-grass. At four miles was a +strong rise, but before we arrived at it we had to cross one of the +swamps, in which we encountered great difficulty. After many turnings and +twistings, and being bogged up to the shoulders, we managed to get +through all safe. It was fearfully hard work. For three miles, on the top +of a stony rise, the country is poor (stones on the top of gypsum +deposit), but after that it gradually improves, and towards the creek it +becomes a good salt-bush country. Wind from the south-east; still very +cloudy. + +Sunday, 18th March, Neale River. Wind south-east; heavy clouds. I +observed a bulbous plant growing in this creek resembling the Egyptian +arum; it was just springing. I will endeavour to get some of the seed, if +I can. I hoped we should have got our provisions dried to-day, but it was +so showery we could not get it done. The creek is so boggy that we cannot +cross it, and must follow it round to-morrow. A sad accident has happened +to my plans. There was a small hole in the case that contains them, which +I did not observe, and in crossing the Peake the water gained admittance +and completely saturated them; it is a great misfortune. Sundown: still +raining; wind same direction. + +Monday, 19th March, Neale River. Rained during the night, and looks very +stormy this morning. Followed the Neale round to where it goes through +the gap in Hanson range; in places it was rather boggy, but good +travelling in this wet weather--firmer than I expected. We had much +difficulty in crossing some of the side creeks. Camped on the south side +of the gap. Wind south-east; cloudy, with little rain. + +Tuesday, 20th March, Neale River Gap, Hanson Range. Wind south-east; a +few showers during the night. Still no chance of getting my provisions +dried. It cleared off about noon, and became a fine day. Followed the +Neale round, and camped on one of the side creeks coming from the south +of west. Ground still soft. Wind south-east. Saw some smoke in the hills +this morning, but no natives. Good country along both sides of the range +on the west side of the Neale. + +Wednesday, 21st March, Neale River. Beautiful sunshine. Shall remain here +to-day, in order to dry my provisions. On examining them I find that a +quantity of our dried meat is quite spoiled, which is a great +loss--another wet day, and we should have lost the half of it. + +Thursday, 22nd March, Side Creek of the Neale River. Wind south-west; +clear sky. I intended to have gone north-west from this point, but, in +attempting to cross the creek, we found it impassable. My horse got +bogged at the first start, and we had some difficulty in getting him out. +We were obliged to follow the creek westward for seven miles, where it +passes between two high hills connected with the range. We managed at +last, with great labour and difficulty, to get across without accident. +At this place four creeks join the main one, and spread over a mile in +breadth, with upwards of twenty boggy water-courses; water running. It +has taken us five hours, from the time we started, to cross it. The +principal creek comes from the south-west. I ascended the two hills to +get a view of the surrounding country, and I could see the creek coming +from a long way off in that direction. At this point the range seems +broken or detached into numerous small ranges and isolated hills. I now +changed my course to north-west, over table land of a light-brown colour, +with stones on the surface; the vegetation was springing all over it and +looking beautifully green. At six miles on this course camped on a myall +creek. The work for the horses has been so very severe to-day that I have +been induced to camp sooner than I intended. Wind south. + +Friday, 23rd March, Myall Creek. Wind south. Started on the same course, +north-west. At three miles crossed another tributary--gum and myall. The +country, before we struck the creek, was good salt-bush country, with a +plentiful supply of grass. The soil was of a light-brown colour, gypsum +underneath, and stones on the surface, grass and herbs growing all round +them. After crossing the creek, which was boggy, we again ascended a low +table land of the same description. At ten miles came upon a few low sand +rises, about a mile in breadth. We then struck a creek, another +tributary, spread over a large plain, very boggy, with here and there +patches of quicksand. We had great difficulty in getting over it, but at +last succeeded without any mishap. We then entered a thick scrubby +country of mulga and other shrubs; the soil now changed to a dark red, +covered splendidly with grass. After the first mile the scrub became much +thinner; ground slightly undulating. After crossing this good country, at +twenty miles we struck a large creek running very rapidly at five miles +per hour; breadth of water one hundred feet, with gum-trees on the bank. +From bank to bank it was forty-four yards wide. This seemed to be only +one of the courses. There were other gum-trees on the opposite side, and +apparently other channels. Wind south. A few clouds from the north-west. + +Saturday, 24th March, Large Gum-Tree Creek. Found it impossible to cross +the Neale here; the banks were too boggy and steep. We therefore followed +it round on a west course for three miles, and found that it came a +little more from the north. Changed to 290 degrees, after trying in vain +to cross the creek at this point. At about four or five miles +south-south-west from this point there are two high peaks of a low range. +The higher one I have named Mount Ben, and the range Head's Range; its +general bearing is north-west to opposite this point; it turns then more +to the west. I can see another spur further to the west, trending +north-west. At four miles and a half after leaving we found a ford, and +got the horses across all safe. I then changed to the north-west again, +through a scrubby country--mulga, acacia, hakea, salt bush, and numerous +others, with a plentiful supply of grass. The soil is of a red sandy +nature, very loose, and does not retain water on the surface. We had +great difficulty in getting through, many places being so very thick with +dead mulga. We have seen no water since we left the creek. Distance, +eighteen miles. I was obliged to camp without water for ourselves. As we +crossed the Neale we saw fish in it of a good size, about eight inches +long, from which I should say that the water is permanent. I shall have +to run to the west to-morrow, for there is no appearance of this scrubby +country terminating. I must have a whole day of it. + +Sunday, 25th March, Mulga Scrub. I can see no termination, on this +course, to this thick scrub. I can scarcely see one hundred yards before +me. I shall therefore bear to the west, cut the Neale River, and see what +sort of country is in that direction. At ten miles made it; the water +still running, but not so rapidly. The gum-trees still existed in its +bed, and there were large pools of water on the side courses. We had the +same thick scrub to within a quarter of a mile of the creek, where we met +a line of red sand hills covered with a spinifex. The range on the +south-west side of the creek seemed to terminate here, and become low +table land, apparently covered with a thick scrub, the creek coming more +from the north. I did not like the appearance of the spinifex, an +indication of desert to the westward. Camped on the creek. Wind +north-west; heavy clouds from the same direction. + +Monday, 26th March, The Neale River West. I am obliged to remain here +to-day to repair damages done to the packs and bags, which have been torn +all to pieces; it will take the whole of the day to put them in order. We +have seen very few signs of natives visiting this part of the country. I +shall go north to-morrow and try to get through this scrub. Wind south, +sky overcast with heavy clouds; looks very like rain. + +Tuesday, 27th March, West Neales. Rained very heavily during the night, +and is still doing so, but less copiously. About noon it cleared up a +little. I have sent Kekwick to get a notion of the country on the other +side of the low range, while I endeavour to obtain an observation of the +sun. The range is scrubby, composed of a light-coloured and dark-red +conglomerate volcanic rock, easily broken. The view from it is not +extensive. At a mile from the creek the sand ceases, and stony ground +succeeds up to the range. Feed excellent south-west from the camp. To the +eastward rugged hills, apparently with fine open grass and forest lands. +Numerous rows of water holes visible. To the south-east, country more +open. To the south-south-east and south still the same good country. From +south to west the same; hills to the west from five to eight miles +distant. View from another hill north-west two miles and a half. The +hills on the west still continue towards the north-west, but become +lower. Country scrubby, with occasional patches of open grass land. Creek +coming in from north-north-west. From north-west to north-north-east +mulga scrub. From north-north-east to east low range in the distance, +like table land. Too cloudy to take an observation; occasional showers +during the day. Wind south-south-east; still looking very black. +Repairing my saddles; some of my horses are getting bad backs. + +Wednesday, 28th March, West Neale River. Started on a north course to get +through the mulga scrub. At ten miles could see the range to the +north-east. The scrubby land now became sand hills; I could see no high +ground on ahead, the scrub becoming thicker; it seemed to be a country +similar to that I passed through on my south-east course (first journey), +and I think is a continuation of it. I therefore changed my course to the +north-east range, bearing 35 degrees. After five miles through the same +description of country, mulga scrub with plenty of grass, we arrived at +water, where three creeks join, one from the south-west, one +west-north-west, and the other from about north-west. The water was still +running in the one from the west-north-west with large long water holes; +also water holes in the other two; gum-trees in the creek. I suppose this +to be the Frew; excellent feed on the banks of the creek up to the range, +which is stony. I ascended the table range in order to have a view of the +country round. To this point the range comes from east-south-east, but +here it takes a turn to the east of north, all flat-topped and stony, +with mulga bushes on the top and sides; the rocks are of a light, flinty +nature. At about six miles north the country seems to be open and stony. +That country I shall steer for to-morrow. To the north-east is the range, +but it seems to drop into low table land; distant about fifteen miles. To +the north-west and west is the thick mulga, scrubby country. There are +numerous tracks of natives in the different creeks, quite fresh, +apparently made to-day. Wind south-east; clouds. + +Thursday, 29th March, The Frew. Started on a north course. At one mile, +after crossing a stony hill with mulga, we suddenly came upon the creek +again; it winds round the hill. Here another branch joins it from the +north, the other coming from the east of north. Along the base of the +range there were very large water holes in both branches. The natives had +evidently camped here last night; their fires were still alight; they +seemed only just to have left. From the numerous fires I should think +there had been a great number of natives here. All round about in every +direction were numerous tracks. We also observed a number of winter +habitations on the banks of the creek; also a large native grave, +composed of sand, earth, wood, and stones. It was of a circular form, +about four feet and a half high, and twenty to twenty-four yards in +circumference. The mulga continued for about six miles; but at three +miles we again crossed the north branch of the creek, coming now from the +north-west. The mulga was not thick except on the top of the rises, where +splendid grass was growing all through it. We now came upon the open +stony country, with a few mulga creeks. There was a little salt bush, but +an immense quantity of green grass, growing about a foot high, which gave +to the country a beautiful appearance. It seemed to be the same all round +as far as I could see. At fourteen miles we struck the other branch, +where it joined, with splendid reaches of water, to the main one, which +now came from the west of north, and continued to where our line cut the +east branch. This seems to be the place where it takes its rise. Camped +for the night. The whole of the country that we have travelled through +to-day is the best for grass that I have ever gone through. I have +nowhere seen its equal. From the number of natives, from there being +winter and summer habitations, and from the native grave, I am led to +conclude the water there is permanent. The gum-trees are large. I saw +kangaroo-tracks. + +Friday, 30th March, Small Branch of The Frew. Course north. At two miles +and a half changed to 332 degrees to a distant hill, apparently a range +of flat-topped hills. At sixteen miles crossed a large gum creek running +to the south of east; it spreads out over a flat between rough hills of +half a mile wide. The bed is very sandy; it will not retain water long. +On the surface it very much resembles the Douglas, but is broader, and +the gum-trees much larger. There were some rushes growing in its bed. I +have named it the Ross. We then ascended the low range for which I had +been steering. Four miles from the creek it is rough and stony, composed +of igneous rock, with scrub, mulga, and plenty of grass quite to the top. +To continue this course would lead me again into the mulga scrub, where I +do not want to get if I can help it. It is far worse than guiding a +vessel at sea; the compass requires to be constantly in hand. I again +changed to the north, which appears to be open in the distance. I could +see another range of flat-topped hills. After crossing over several small +spurs coming from the range, and a number of small creeks, volcanic, and +stony, we struck another large gum creek coming from the south of west, +and running to the south-east. It was a fine creek. These courses of +water spread over a grassy plain a mile wide; the water holes were long +and deep, with numerous plants growing on their banks, indicating +permanent water. The wild oats on the bank of the creek were four feet +high. The country gone over to-day, although stony, was completely +covered with grass and salt bush; it was even better than that passed +yesterday. Some of the grass resembled the drake, some the wild wheat, +and some rye--the same as discovered by Captain Sturt. There is a light +shade over the horizon from south-east to north-west, indicating the +presence of a lake in that direction. I have named it after my friend Mr. +Stevenson. There are small fish in the holes of this creek, and mussel +shells, also crabs about two inches by one inch and a half. + +Saturday, 31st March, The Stevenson. I am obliged to remain here to-day; +my horses require shoeing. The country cuts up the shoes very much. + +Sunday, 1st April, The Stevenson. I find to-day that my right eye, from +the long continuation of bad eyes, is now become useless to me for taking +observations. I now see two suns instead of one, which has led me into an +error of a few miles. I trust to goodness my other eye will not become +the same; as long as it remains good, I can do. Wind east; cool. Heavy +clouds. + +Monday, 2nd April, The Stevenson. Started at 8 o'clock; course 355 +degrees to distant hills. At six miles we struck a gum creek with water +in it, but not permanent. At ten miles we crossed another, running +between rugged hills; a little water coming from the west and running +east-south-east through a mass of hills. At twelve miles crossed a valley +a quarter of a mile broad, through which a gum creek runs, with an +immense quantity of drift timber lying on its banks. At twenty miles +arrived at the first part of the range, and at twenty-eight miles camped +on a gum creek running east and coming from the south of west. The first +three miles of to-day's journey were over good country; it then became +rather scrubby, with numerous small creeks and valleys running to the +east. Plenty of grass and salt-bush, with gravel, ironstone, and lime on +the surface. At a mile before we made the rugged creek the ironstone +became less, and a hard white stone took its place, and continued to the +range, on which it is also found. Gypsum, chalk, ironstone, quartz, and +other stones, are the chief materials of which it and the other hills are +composed. There are also a few of a hard red sandstone. The range is +broken, and running nearly east and west. The country round is slightly +undulating; numerous small creeks running to the eastward, with a deal of +grass and salt-bush. No water in this creek. Camped without. Wind east. + +Tuesday, 3rd April, Gum Creek, South of Range. Ascended the hill at three +miles from last night's camp. The country very rough, stony, and scrubby +to the base. The view from it is very extensive. I have named it Mount +Beddome, after S. Beddome, Esquire, of Adelaide. To the west is another +broken range, about fifteen miles distant, of a dark-red colour, running +nearly north and south. The country between is apparently open, with +patches of scrub. A gum creek comes from the south-west and runs some +distance to the north-east; it then turns to the east. In the distant +west appears a dense scrub. On a bearing of 330 degrees there is a large +isolated table hill, for which I shall shape my course, to see if I can +get an entrance that way. To the north are a number of broken hills and +peaks with scrub between; they are of every shape and size. To the east +another flat-topped range; country between also scrubby; apparently open. +Close to the range, distant about twenty miles saw hills in the far +distance; to the east another flat-topped small range; between it and the +other the creek seems to run. The highest point of it bears 80 degrees, +and I have named it Mount Daniel, after Mr. Daniel Kekwick, of Adelaide. +From east to south-east the country is open and grassy; low ranges in the +distance. Saw some rain water, bearing 30 degrees, to which I will go, +and give the horses a drink; they had none last night. Distance, two +miles. Obtained an observation of the sun, 118 degrees 17 minutes 30 +seconds. At six miles crossed the broad bed of a large gum creek; gravel; +no water. At eight miles the red sand hills commence, covered with +spinifex; and on the small flats mulga scrub, which continues to the base +of the hill. Red loose sand; no water. Distance, twenty miles from Mount +Beddome to this hill. The country good, until we get among the spinifex. + +Wednesday, 4th April, Mount Humphries. At break of day ascended the +mount, which is composed of a soft white coarse sandstone. On the top is +a quantity of water-worn quartz, cemented into large masses. The view is +much the same as from Mount Beddome, broken ranges all round the horizon, +and apparently a dense scrub from south-west to west. It then becomes an +open and grassy country, with alternate patches of scrub. I can see a gum +creek about two miles distant; I can also see water in it, which the +horses have not yet discovered. I shall therefore go in that direction, +and give them a drink. To the north and eastward the country appears +good. Went to the aforesaid water, to see if there is any that I can +depend upon. On my return, wanting to correct my instrument, which met +with an accident three or four days ago, by the girths getting under the +horse's belly (he bolted and kicked it off), I sent Kekwick to examine +the creek that I saw coming from the north. He says there is plenty of +water to serve our purpose. The creek is very large, with the finest +gum-trees we have yet seen, all sizes and heights. This seems to be a +favourite place for the natives to camp, as there are eleven worleys in +one encampment. We saw here a number of new parrots, the black cockatoo, +and numerous other birds. The creek runs over a space of about two miles, +coming from the west; the bed sandy. After leaving it, on a bearing of +329 degrees, for nine miles, we passed over a plain of as fine a country +as any man would wish to see--a beautiful red soil covered with grass a +foot high; after that it becomes a little sandy. At fifteen miles we got +into some sand hills, but the feed was still most abundant. I have not +passed through such splendid country since I have been in the colony. I +only hope it may continue. The creek I have named the Finke, after +William Finke, Esquire, of Adelaide, my sincere and tried friend, and one +of the liberal supporters of the different explorations I have had the +honour to lead. Wind south-east. Cloudy. + +Thursday, April 5th, Good Country. Started on the same course to some +hills, through sand hills and spinifex for ten miles. Halted for half an +hour to obtain an observation of the sun, 117 degrees 6 minutes. Within +the last mile or two we have passed a few patches of shea-oak, growing +large, having a very rough and thick bark, nearly black. They have a +dismal appearance. The spinifex now ceased, and grass began to take its +place as we approached the hills. From the top of the hill the view is +limited, except to the south-west, where, in the far distance, is a long +range. The country between seems to be scrub, red sand hills, and +spinifex. To the west the country is open, but at five miles is +intercepted by the point of the range that I am about to cross. To the +north-west and east is a mass of flat-topped hills, of every size and +shape, running always to the east. Camped on the head of a small gum +creek, among the hills, which are composed of the same description of +stones as the others. This water hole is three feet deep, and will last a +month or so. The native cucumber is growing here. + +Friday, 6th April, Small Gum Creek in Range of Hills. Started on the same +course, 330 degrees, to a remarkable hill, which has the appearance at +this distance of a locomotive engine with its funnel. For three miles the +country is very good, but after that high sand hills succeeded, covered +with spinifex. At six miles we got to one of the largest gum creeks I +have yet seen. It is much the same as the one we saw on the 4th, and the +water in it is running. Great difficulty in crossing it, its bed being +quicksand. We were nearly across, when I saw a black fellow among the +bushes; I pulled up, and called to him. At first he seemed at a loss to +know where the sound came from. As soon, however, as he saw the other +horses coming up, he took to his heels, and was off like a shot, and we +saw no more of him. As far as I can judge, the creek comes from the +south-west, but the sand hills are so high, and the large black shea-oak +so thick, that I cannot distinguish the creek very well. These trees look +so much like gums in the distance; some of them are very large, as also +are the gums in the creek. Numerous tracks of blacks all about. It is the +upper part of the Finke, and at this point runs through high sand hills +(red), covered with spinifex, which it is very difficult to get the +horses through. We passed through a few patches of good grassy country. +In the sand hills the oak is getting more plentiful. We were +three-quarters of an hour in crossing the creek, and obtained an +observation of the sun, 116 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds. We then +proceeded on the same course towards the remarkable pillar, through high, +heavy sand hills, covered with spinifex, and, at twelve miles from last +night's camp, arrived at it. It is a pillar of sandstone, standing on a +hill upwards of one hundred feet high. From the base of the pillar to its +top is about one hundred and fifty feet, quite perpendicular; and it is +twenty feet wide by ten feet deep, with two small peaks on the top. I +have named it Chambers Pillar, in honour of James Chambers, Esquire, who, +with William Finke, Esquire, has been my great supporter in all my +explorations. To the north and north-east of it are numerous remarkable +hills, which have a very striking effect in the landscape; they resemble +nothing so much as a number of old castles in ruins; they are standing in +the midst of sand hills. Proceeded, still on the same course, through the +sand rises, spinifex, and low sandstone hills, at the foot of which we +saw some rain water, where I camped. To the south-west are some high +hills, through which I think the Finke comes. I would follow it up, but +the immense quantity of sand in its bed shows that it comes from a sandy +country, which I wish to avoid if I can. Wind south-east. Heavy clouds; +very like rain. + +Saturday, 7th April, Rain Water under Sandstone Hills. Started on the +same course 330 degrees, over low sand rises and spinifex, for six miles. +It then became a plain of red soil, with mulga bushes, and for seven +miles was as fine a grassed country as any one would wish to look at; it +could be cut with a scythe. Dip of the country to the east, sand hills to +the west; afterwards it became alternate sand hills and grassy plains, +mulga, mallee, and black oak. From the top of one of the sand hills, I +can see a range which our line will cut; I shall make to the foot of that +to-night, and I expect I shall find a creek with water there. Proceeded +through another long plain sloping towards the creek, and covered with +grass. At about one mile from the creek we again met with sand hills and +spinifex, which continued to it. Arrived and camped; found water. It is +very broad, with a sandy bottom, which will not retain water long; +beautiful grass on both banks. Wind east, and cool. + +Sunday, 8th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. I have named this creek the Hugh, +and the range James Range. It is scrubby on this side and is not +flat-topped as all the others have been, which indicates a change of +country. On the other side the bearing is nearly east and west. Examined +the creek, but cannot find sufficient water to depend upon for any length +of time; the gum-trees are large. Numerous parrots, black cockatoos, and +other birds. Wind east; very cold during the night. + +Monday, 9th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. Started for the highest point of +the James range. At four miles arrived on the top, through a very thick +scrub of mulga; the range is composed of soft red sandstone, long blocks +of it lying on the side. To the east, apparently red sand hills, beyond +which are seen the tops of other hills to the north-east. On the +north-west the view is intercepted by a high, broken range, with two very +remarkable bluffs about the centre. I shall direct my course to the east +bluff, which is apparently the higher of the two. In the intermediate +country are three lower ranges, between which are flats of green grass, +and red sand hills. To the west are grassy flats next to the creek; +beyond these are seen the tops of distant ranges and broken hills; at +about six miles the Hugh seems to turn more to the north, towards a very +rough range of red sandstone. We then descended into a grassy flat with a +few gum-trees. We have had a very great difficulty in crossing the range, +and now I am again stopped by another low range of the same description, +which is nearly perpendicular--huge masses of red sandstone on its side, +and in the valley a number of old native camps. After following the range +three miles, we at last found out a place to cross it. Although this is +not half the height of James range, we encountered far more difficulty; +the scrub was very dense, a great quantity having withered and fallen +down: we could scarcely get the horses to face it. Our course was also +intercepted by deep, perpendicular ravines, which we were obliged to +round after a great deal of trouble, having our saddlebags torn to +pieces, and our skin and clothes in the same predicament. We arrived at +the foot nearly naked, and got into open sandy rises and valleys, with +mulga and plenty of grass, among which there is some spinifex growing. At +sundown, after having gone about eight miles further, we made a large gum +creek, in which we found some water; it is very broad, with a sand and +gravel bottom. Camped, both men and horses being very tired. + +Tuesday, 10th April, Gum Creek, Bend of the Hugh. I find our saddle-bags +and harness are so much torn and broken that I cannot proceed until they +are repaired. I am compelled with great reluctance to remain here to-day. +This creek is running to the west. On ascending a sand hill this morning, +I find that it is the Hugh (which seems to drain the sand hills) that we +saw to the east from the top of James range. There is another branch +between us and the high ranges. At about four miles west it seems to +break through the rough range and join the Hugh. A large number of native +encampments here, and rushes are growing in and about the creek: there is +plenty of water. + +Wednesday, 11th April, Bend of the Hugh. Got the things put pretty well +to rights, and started towards the high bluff. I find that my poor little +mare, Polly, has got staked in the fetlock-joint, and is nearly dead +lame; but I must proceed. At six miles and a half we again crossed the +Hugh, and at another mile found it coming through the range, which is a +double one. The south range is red sandstone, the next is hard white +stone, and also red sandstone, with a few hills of ironstone; a +well-grassed valley lying between. The two gorges are rocky, and in some +places perpendicular, with some gum-trees growing on the sides. The +cucumber plant thrives here in great quantities, and water is abundant. +At twelve miles we got through both the gorges of the range, which I have +named the Waterhouse Range, after the Honourable the Colonial Secretary. +The country between last night's camp and the range is a red sandy soil, +with a few sand hills, on which is growing the spinifex, but the valleys +between are broad and beautifully grassed. At fifteen miles again crossed +the Hugh, coming from the east, with splendid gum-trees of every size +lining the banks. The pine was also met with here for the first time. +There is a magnificent hole of water here, long and deep, with rushes +growing round it. I think it is a spring; the water seems to come from +below a large bed of conglomerate quartz. I should say it was permanent. +Black cockatoos and other birds abound here, and there are numbers of +native tracks all about. I hoped to-day to have gained the top of the +bluff, which is still seven or eight miles off, and appears to be so very +rough that I anticipate a deal of difficulty in crossing it. I am forced +to halt at this bend of the creek, in consequence of the little mare +becoming so lame that she is unable to proceed further to-day. Our hands +are very bad from being torn by the scrub, and the flies are a perfect +torment. Indications of scurvy are beginning to show themselves upon us. +Wind west; cool night. + +Thursday 12th April, The Hugh. Started for the bluff. At eight miles we +again struck the creek coming from the west, and several other gum creeks +coming from the range and joining it. We have now entered the lower hills +of the range. Again have we travelled through a splendid country for +grass, but as we approached the creek it became a little stony. At twelve +miles we found a number of springs in the range. Here I obtained an +observation of the sun. As we approached near the bluff, our route became +very difficult; we could not get up the creek for precipices, and were +obliged to turn in every direction. About two miles from where I obtained +the observation, we arrived with great difficulty at the foot of the +bluff; it has taken us all the afternoon. I expected to have gone to the +top of it to-night, but it is too late. It will take half a day, it is so +high and rough. We are camped at a good spring, where I have found a very +remarkable palm-tree, with light-green fronds ten feet long, having small +leaves a quarter of an inch in breadth, and about eight inches in length, +and a quarter of an inch apart, growing from each side, and coming to a +sharp point. They spread out like the top of the grass-tree, and the +fruit has a large kernel about the size of an egg, with a hard shell; the +inside has the taste of a cocoa-nut, but when roasted is like a potato. +Here we have also the india-rubber tree, the cork-tree, and several new +plants. This is the only real range that I have met with since leaving +the Flinders range. I have named it the McDonnell Range, after his +Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, as a token of my +gratitude for his kindness to me on many occasions. The east bluff I have +named Brinkley Bluff, after Captain Brinkley, of Adelaide, and the west +one I have named Hanson Bluff, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of +Adelaide. The range is composed of gneiss rock and quartz. + +Friday, 13th April, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. At sunrise I +ascended the bluff, which is the most difficult hill I have ever climbed; +it took me an hour and a half to reach the top. It is very high, and is +composed principally of igneous rock, with a little ironstone, much the +same as the ranges down the country. On reaching the top, I was +disappointed; the view was not so good as I expected, in consequence of +the morning being so very hazy. I have, however, been enabled to decide +what course to take. To the south-west the Waterhouse and James ranges +seem to join. At west-south-west they are hidden by one of the spurs of +the McDonnell range. To the north-west the view is intercepted by another +point of this range, on which is a high peak, which I have named Mount +Hay, after the Honourable Alexander Hay, the Commissioner of Crown Lands. +About five miles to the north are numerous small spurs, beyond which +there is an extensive wooded or scrubby plain; and beyond that, in the +far distance, is another range, broken by a high conical hill, bearing +about west-north-west, to which I will go, after getting through the +range. To the north-east is the end of another range coming from the +south. On this, which I have named Strangway Range, after the Honourable +the Attorney-General, is another high hill. Beyond is a luminous, hazy +appearance, as if it proceeded from a large body of water. A little more +to the east there are three high hills; the middle one, which I should +think is upwards of thirty miles from us, is the highest, and is bluff at +both ends; it seems to be connected with Strangway range. To the east is +a complete mass of ranges, with the same luminous appearance behind them. +I had a terrible job in getting down the bluff; one false step and I +should have been dashed to pieces in the abyss below; I was thankful when +I arrived safely at the foot. I find that I have taken the wrong creek to +get through the bluff. The Hugh still comes in that way, but more to the +westward. Started at 10 o'clock; the hills very bad to get over; wind +easterly. Camped at sundown on the creek; there is an abundance of water, +which apparently is permanent, from the number of rushes growing all +about it. The feed is splendid. There are a number of fresh native +tracks. + +Saturday, 14th April, McDonnell Range. Started at 8 o'clock to follow the +creek, as it seems to be the best way of getting through the other +ranges; but, as it comes too much from the east, I must leave it, and get +through at some of the low hills further down. This we at last contrived +to do after a severe struggle. It has taken us the whole day to come +about five miles. We are now camped, north of the bluff, at a gorge, in +which there is a good spring of water; the creeks now run north from the +range. + +Sunday, 15th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. I ascended the +high hill on the east side of the gorge; the atmosphere being much +clearer, I got a better view of the country. To the north-west, between +the McDonnell range and the conical hill north-north-west, is a large +plain, apparently scrub; no hills on the horizon, but a light shade in +the far distance; the conical hill bears 340 degrees from this; it +appears to be high. From the foot of this, for about five miles, is an +open grassy country, with a few small patches of bushes. A number of gum +creeks come from the ranges, and seem to empty themselves in the plains. +The country in the ranges is as fine a pastoral hill-country as a man +would wish to possess; grass to the top of the hills, and abundance of +water through the whole of the ranges. I forgot to mention that the nut +we found on the south side of the range is not fit to eat; it caused both +men to vomit violently. I ate one, but it had no bad effect on me. + +Monday, 16th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. Started at 9 +o'clock to cross the scrub for the distant high peak. For five miles the +plain was open and well grassed: afterwards it became thick, with mulga +bushes and other scrubs. At twenty miles we again encountered the +spinifex, which continued until we camped after dark. Distance, thirty +miles. Met with no creek or watercourse after leaving the McDonnell +ranges. + +Tuesday, 17th April, In the Scrub. Got an early start, and continued +through the scrub and spinifex on the same course, 340 degrees. At three +miles passed a small stony hill, about two miles to the west of our +course. At eighteen miles saw to the west two prominent bluff hills, and +two or three small ones, about ten miles distant from us. At thirty-two +miles crossed a strong rise. There are three reap-hook hills about three +miles west, their steep side facing the south. At sundown reached the +hills. At two miles passed a small sandy gum creek, the only watercourse +we have seen between the two ranges. Followed the range to the north-west +till after dark, hoping to find a gum creek coming from the range, but +without success; nothing but rocky and sandy watercourses. Camped. The +poor horses again without water; I trust that I shall find some for them +in the morning; if not, I shall have to return to the McDonnell range. +Very little rain seems to have fallen here; the grass is all dried up. +The spinifex continues until within a mile of the range. The small gum +creek that we passed is running south-west into the scrub. + +Wednesday, 18th April, Under the High Peak, Mount Freeling. At daybreak +sent Kekwick in search of water, while I ascended the high mount to see +if any could be seen from that place. To my great delight I beheld a +little in a creek on the other side of the range, bearing 113 degrees, +about a mile and a half. I find this is not quite the highest point of +the range; there is another hill, still higher, about fifteen miles +further to the north-north-west. About two miles off I can see a gum +creek looking very green, coming from the range in the direction in which +I have sent Kekwick, where I hope he will find water. The country from +west to north-east is a mass of hills and broken ranges; to the +south-west high broken ranges. To the north-north-east is another hill, +with a plain of scrub between. To the south-east scrub, with tops of +hills in the far distance. Brinkley Bluff bears 166 degrees and Mount Hay +186 degrees. Returned to the camp, and find to my great satisfaction that +Kekwick has discovered some water in the creek about two miles off. I am +very glad of it, for I am sure that some of my horses would not have +stood the journey back without it. I must not leave this range without +endeavouring to find a permanent water, as no rain seems to have fallen +to the north of us; everything is so dry, one would think it was the +middle of summer. The sun is also very hot, but the nights and mornings +are cool. Wind east. Old tracks and native camps about. The range is +composed of the same description of rocks as the McDonnell ranges, with +rather more quartz than mica. We here found new shrubs and flowers, also +a small brown pigeon with a crest. I have built a small cone of stones on +the peak, and named it Mount Freeling, after the Honourable Colonel +Freeling, Surveyor-General. The range I have called the Reynolds, after +the Honourable Thomas Reynolds, the Treasurer. + +Thursday, 19th April, Mount Hugh. The horses separated during the night, +and were not found until after one o'clock. Moved to the east side of the +mount to where I had seen the water from the top. We found plenty of +water in the gum creek which is the head of the one we crossed on Tuesday +night, just before making the range. We were obliged to come a long way +round before we could get to it, the hills being all rough sharp rocks, +impassable for horses; abundance of grass with a little spinifex on the +hills. At this camp I have marked a tree "J. M.D. S."; the cone of stones +on the top of the mount bears 293 degrees. Ten miles distant in a branch +creek about half a mile to the north of this is more water; and a little +higher up, in a ledge of rocks, is a splendid reservoir of water, thirty +yards in diameter and about one hundred yards in circumference. We could +not get to the middle to try the depth, but where we tried it it was +twelve feet deep. A few yards higher up is another ledge of rocks, behind +which is a second reservoir, but smaller, having a drainage into the +former one. Native tracks about. Wind north. I have named this Anna's +Reservoir, after Mr. James Chambers' youngest daughter. + +Friday, 20th April, East Side of Mount Hugh. Started to the south-east to +find a crossing place over the range; this was not an easy matter, from +the roughness of the hills; at last, however, we got over it. On the +other side we found a large gum creek with water in it, running to the +north-east. Camped. The range is well grassed, with gum creeks coming +from it, and a little mulga scrub. Here we have discovered a new tree, +whose dark-green leaf has the shape of two wide prongs; the seed or bean, +of which I have obtained a few, is of a red colour; the foliage is very +thick. The stem of the largest we have seen is about eighteen inches in +diameter. The wood is soft; when in the state of a bush it has thorns on +it like a rose. Here we have also obtained some seed of the vegetable we +have been using; we have found this vegetable most useful; it can be +eaten as a salad, boiled as a vegetable, or cooked as a fruit. We have +also some other seeds of new flowers. The bearing from this to the cone +of stones on Hugh Mount, 233 degrees 45 minutes. + +Saturday, 21st April, Gum Creek, East Side of Mount Freeling. Started at +half-past seven across the scrub to another high hill. For seven miles +the scrub is open, and the land beautifully grassed. At twelve miles from +the camp we crossed another gum creek, coming from the range; as far as I +could see it ran to the north-east. After seven miles the scrub became +much thicker. We had great difficulty in getting through, from the +quantity of dead timber, which has torn our saddle-bags and clothes to +pieces. There are a number of gum-trees, and the new tree that was found +on Captain Sturt's expedition, 1844, but mulga predominates. At fourteen +miles we struck a large gum plain, but after a short time again entered +the scrub. At about twenty-two miles met another arm of the gum plains, +with large granite rocks nearly level with the surface. We found rain +water in the holes of these rocks. At thirty-two miles crossed the sandy +bed of a large gum creek divided into a number of channels; too dark to +see any water. Four miles further on, camped on a small gum creek with a +little rain water; the creeks are running to the north-east. The soil is +of a red sandy colour: the grass most abundant throughout the whole day's +journey. Occasionally we met with a few hundred yards of spinifex. Wind +south-east. Native tracks quite fresh in the scrub and plain; we also +passed several old worleys. + +Sunday, 22nd April, Small Gum Creek, under Mount Stuart, Centre of +Australia. To-day I find from my observations of the sun, 111 degrees 00 +minutes 30 seconds, that I am now camped in the centre of Australia. I +have marked a tree and planted the British flag there. There is a high +mount about two miles and a half to the north-north-east. I wish it had +been in the centre; but on it to-morrow I will raise a cone of stones, +and plant the flag there, and name it Central Mount Stuart. We have been +in search of permanent water to-day, but cannot find any. I hope from the +top of Central Mount Stuart to find something good to the north-west. +Wind south. Examined a large creek; can find no surface water, but got +some by scratching in the sand. It is a large creek divided into many +channels, but they are all filled with sand; splendid grass all round +this camp. + +Monday, 23rd April, Centre. Took Kekwick and the flag, and went to the +top of the mount, but found it to be much higher and more difficult of +ascent than I anticipated. After a deal of labour, slips, and knocks, we +at last arrived on the top. It is quite as high as Mount Serle, if not +higher. The view to the north is over a large plain of gums, mulga, and +spinifex, with watercourses running through it. The large gum creek that +we crossed winds round this hill in a north-east direction; at about ten +miles it is joined by another. After joining they take a course more +north, and I lost sight of them in the far-distant plain. To the +north-north-east is the termination of the hills; to the north-east, east +and south-east are broken ranges, and to the north-north-west the ranges +on the west side of the plain terminate. To the north-west are broken +ranges; and to the west is a very high peak, between which and this place +to the south-west are a number of isolated hills. Built a large cone of +stones, in the centre of which I placed a pole with the British flag +nailed to it. Near the top of the cone I placed a small bottle, in which +there is a slip of paper, with our signatures to it, stating by whom it +was raised. We then gave three hearty cheers for the flag, the emblem of +civil and religious liberty, and may it be a sign to the natives that the +dawn of liberty, civilization, and Christianity is about to break upon +them. We can see no water from the top. Descended, but did not reach the +camp till after dark. This water still continues, which makes me think +there must certainly be more higher up. I have named the range John +Range, after my friend and well-wisher, John Chambers, Esquire, brother +to James Chambers, Esquire, one of the promoters of this expedition. + +Tuesday, 24th April, Central Mount Stuart. Sent Kekwick in search of +water, and to examine a hill that has the appearance of having a cone of +stones upon it; meanwhile I made up my plan, and Ben mended the +saddlebags, which were in a sad mess from coming through the scrub. +Kekwick returned in the afternoon, having found water higher up the +creek. He has also found a new rose of a beautiful description, having +thorns on its branches, and a seed-vessel resembling a gherkin. It has a +sweet, strong perfume; the leaves are white, but as the flower is +withered, I am unable to describe it. The native orange-tree abounds +here. Mount Stuart is composed of hard red sandstone, covered with +spinifex, and a little scrub on the top. The white ant abounds in the +scrubs, and we even found some of their habitations near the top of Mount +Stuart. + +Wednesday, 25th April, Central Mount Stuart. There is a remarkable hill +about two miles to the west, having another small hill at the north end +in the shape of a bottle; this I have named Mount Esther, at the request +of the maker of the flag. Started at 9 o'clock, on a course a little +north of west, to the high peak that I saw from the top of Mount Stuart, +which bears 272 degrees. My reason for going west is that I do not like +the appearance of the country to the north for finding water; it seems to +be sandy. From the peak I expect to find another stratum to take me up to +the north-north-west. Around the mount and on the west side, the country +is well grassed, and red sandy soil; no stones. To the north and south of +our line are several isolated hills, composed principally of granite. At +ten miles there is a quartz reef on the north side of the south hills. At +twelve miles struck a gum creek coming from the south and running to the +north; it has three channels. We found a little rain water in one, and +camped, to enable us to finish the mending of the saddle-bags. Wind east; +very cold morning and night. The large creek that flowed round Mount +Stuart is named the Hanson, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of Adelaide. + +Thursday, 26th April, Gum Creek on West Course. Started at a quarter past +8 o'clock on the same course for the high peak. At two miles crossed some +low granite and quartz hills; and at four miles crossed a gum creek +running to the north with sand and gravel beds. No water. The country +then became difficult to get through, in consequence of the number of +dead mulga bushes. At ten miles the grass ceased, and spinifex took its +place, and continued to the banks of the next gum creek, which we crossed +at twenty-two miles; the bed sandy, and divided into a number of +channels, coming from the south-east, and running a little to the east of +north, but no water in them. Native tracks in its bed. On the west side +of the creek the grass again begins, and continues to the hills, where we +arrived at five minutes to 7. Camped without water. There seems to have +been very little rain here--the grass and everything else is quite dry. +Distance, thirty-eight miles. + +Friday, 27th April, East Side of Mount Denison. Sent Kekwick to the +south-west to a remarkable hill which I hope may yield some water, with +orders to return immediately if he should find any nearer, so that we +might get some for the horses. I waited till past 12, but he did not +return, so I started, intending to go to the top of the mount. On getting +to the north-east side of the ranges, I liked the appearance of the +country for water, and seeing that the top of the mount was still some +distance off, and that it would make it too late to return, I set to work +myself to look for water. After an hour's search I was successful, +finding some rain water in a gum creek coming from the hills. The natives +must have been there quite recently, as their fires were still warm; and, +as I had left the camp and provisions with only one man, I hurried back, +had the horses saddled and packed, and brought them down to the water, +leaving a note for Kekwick to follow in a west-north-west direction to a +gum creek about three miles distant. Kekwick's search was also +successful; he found permanent water under the high peak to which I sent +him, and which I have named Mount Leichardt, in memory of that +unfortunate explorer, whose fate is still a mystery. I have seen no trace +of his having passed to the westward. Kekwick describes the water he has +found as abundant and beautifully clear, springing out of conglomerate +rock much resembling marble; its length is upwards of a quarter of a +mile, falling into natural basins in the solid rock, some six feet in +depth and of considerable capacity. The country round the base of the +range is covered with the most luxuriant grass and vegetation. Mount +Leichardt and the range are composed, at their base, of a soft +conglomerate rock in immense irregular masses, heaped one on the other; +the higher part where the spring appears is of the same conglomerate, but +broad and solid, having smooth faces, which makes the ascent very +difficult. + +Saturday, 28th April, Gum Creek under Mount Denison. As soon as the +horses were caught I started for the top of the mount. I left my horse in +a small rocky gum creek which I thought would lead me to the foot of the +mount. At about a quarter of a mile from the mouth of the gorge, I came +upon some water in a rocky hole, followed it up, and, two hundred yards +further, was stopped by a perpendicular precipice with water trickling +over it into a large reservoir. I had now to take to the hills, which +were very rough, and after a deal of difficulty I arrived, as I thought, +at the top, but to my disappointment I had to go down a fearfully steep +gully. At it I went, and again I arrived, as I fancied, at the top, but +here again was another gully to cross, and a rise still higher. I have at +last arrived at the summit, after a deal of labour and many scratches. +This is certainly the highest mountain I have yet ascended; it has taken +me full three hours to get to the summit. The view is extensive, but not +encouraging. Central Mount Stuart bears 95 degrees. Mount Leichardt, 155 +degrees 30 minutes. To the south, broken ranges with wooded plains before +them, and in the far distance, scarcely visible, appears to be a very +high mountain, a long, long way off. To the south-west the same +description of range. About thirty miles to the west is a high mount with +open country, and patches of woodland in the foreground. At the +north-west there appears to be an immense open plain with patches of +wood. To the north is another plain becoming more wooded to the +north-east. As this is the highest mountain that I have seen in Central +Australia, I have taken the liberty of naming it Mount Denison, after his +Excellency Sir William Denison, K.C.B., Governor-General. The next range +(bearing 334 degrees), being the last of the highest ones north, I have +named Mount Barkly, after his Excellency Sir Henry Barkly, +Governor-in-Chief of Victoria. When on the second highest point of this +mount, I saw a native smoke rise up in the creek below, a short distance +from where I had tied my horse. This naturally made me very anxious for +his safety, and when I descended I was rejoiced to find him safe. The +natives have been in the creek and on the mount: their tracks, which are +quite fresh, lead me to conclude that they have been running. The descent +was difficult, but I discovered a shorter route, and it has taken me two +hours to come down. Arrived at the camp at 4.30, and found all right. I +intended to have built a large cone of stones on the summit; but, when I +arrived there, I was too much exhausted to do so. I have, however, +erected a small one, placing a little paper below one of the stones, to +show that a white man has been there. I have also marked a tree "J. M.D. +S." on the creek where we are now camped. Mount Denison bears from here +249 degrees. + +Sunday, 29th April, Gum Creek under Mount Denison. Latitude, 21 degrees +48 minutes. Variation, 3 degrees 20 minutes east. Mount Denison and the +surrounding hills are composed of a hard reddish-brown sandstone. About +one hundred yards from the summit is a course of conglomerate, composed +of stones from half an inch to four inches in diameter, having the +appearance of being rounded at a former period by water. From the foot to +the top of this course is about ten feet, and the breadth on the top is +about twelve feet. There is red sandstone on the summit, with three or +four pines growing. The mount and adjoining hill are covered with +spinifex, but the plain is grassed. The wind has now changed to the west, +and it is much hotter. + +Monday, 30th April, Under Mount Denison. The wind changed again to the +south-east during the night, and is much colder. Started on a course, 315 +degrees, across the plain towards Mount Barkly. The highest point of the +mount is eighteen miles distant from our camp on the creek. We had to +round the west side of it, finding no water until we came upon a little +in the gorge coming from the highest point. It was dark before we +arrived, so that we could not take the horses up to-night. Wind +south-east, blowing a hurricane, and very cold. + +Tuesday, 1st May, North-west Side of Mount Barkly. On examining the +water, I find it is only a drainage from the rocks, and there is not more +than two gallons for each horse. I ascended the hill, but could see +nothing more than I had seen from Mount Denison. The base is composed of +a hard red sandstone, the top of quartz rock. I do not like the +appearance of the country before us. Started on a course of 335 degrees, +and at six miles and a half came upon a large gum creek divided into +numerous channels: searched it carefully, without finding any surface +water; but I discovered a native well about four feet deep, in the east +channel, close to a small hill of rocks. Cleared it out, and watered the +horses with a quart pot, which took us long after dark--each horse +drinking about ten gallons, and some of them more. Natives have been here +lately, and from the tracks they seem to be numerous. We also observed +the rose-coloured cockatoo. I have named this creek The Fisher, after Sir +James Hurtle Fisher; it runs a little east of north. + +Wednesday, 2nd May, The Fisher. We did not start until 11 o'clock in +consequence of it taking a long time to water the horses. We steered for +some hills that I had seen from the top of the last two mounts. At +thirteen miles arrived at the hills, but found them low, and no +appearance of water. Changed my course west 35 degrees north to some +higher hills. At 6.30 camped in the scrub without water. The country from +Mount Denison to this is a light-red sandy soil, covered with spinifex, +with very little grass, and is nearly a dead level. In some places it is +scrubby, having a number of gum-trees, and the new tree of Captain Sturt +growing all over it. From a distance it has the appearance of a good +country, and is very deceiving; you constantly think you are coming upon +a gum creek. Wind south-east; very cold at night and morning. + +Thursday, 3rd May, Spinifex and Gum Plains. Started on the same course, +west 35 degrees north, and at four miles reached the top of the hills, +which are low and composed of dark-red sandstone and quartz. The bearings +to Mount Denison, 146 degrees; Mount Barkly, 142 degrees; to another hill +west-north-west, 302 degrees, distant about ten miles, which I have named +Mount Turnbull, after the late Gavin Turnbull, Esquire, Surgeon in the +Indian Army. The morning is very hazy, and I cannot see distinctly; +besides, my eyes are again very bad. The appearance of the country all +round is that of having gum creeks everywhere. To the north there are +some more low hills. A short distance off, on a bearing of 328 degrees, +there appears to be a gum creek with something white as if it were water, +so I shall change my course. At 3.50 camped, some of my horses being +nearly done up from want of water, and having nothing to eat but +spinifex. I have now come eighteen miles, and the plain has the same +appearance now as when I first started--spinifex and gum-trees, with a +little scrub occasionally. We are expecting every moment to come upon a +gum creek, but hope is disappointed. I have not so much as seen a +water-course since I left the Fisher, and how far this country may +continue it is impossible to tell. I intended to have turned back sooner, +but I was expecting every moment to meet with a creek. It is very +alluring, and apt to lead the traveller into serious mistakes. I wish I +had turned back earlier, for I am almost afraid that I have allowed +myself to come too far. I am doubtful if all my horses will be able to +get back to water. In rainy weather this country will not retain the +water on the surface, and we have not so much as seen a clay-pan of the +smallest dimensions. The gum-trees on this plain have a smooth white +bark, and the leaves are some light-green and some dark. Most of the +trees seem very healthy; there are very few dead ones about. To-morrow +morning I must unwillingly retreat to water for my horses. There is no +chance of getting to the north-west in this direction, unless this plain +soon terminates. From what I could see there is little hope of its doing +so for a long distance. + +Friday, 4th May, Gum and Spinifex Plains. At times this country is +visited by blacks, but it must be seldom, as since we left the Fisher we +have only seen the track of one, who seems to have come from the east, +and to have returned in that direction. The spinifex in many places has +been burnt, and the track of the native was peculiar--not broad and flat, +as they generally are, but long and narrow, with a deep hollow in the +foot, and the large toe projecting a good deal; the other in some +respects more like the print of a white man than of a native. Had I +crossed it the day before, I would have followed it. My horses are now +suffering too much from the want of water to allow me to do so. If I did, +and were not to find water to-night, I should lose the whole of the +horses and our own lives into the bargain. I must now retreat to Mount +Denison, which I do with great reluctance; it is losing so much time, and +my provisions are limited. Started back at 7.10 a.m., and at thirty miles +came upon a native well, with a little grass round it; the bottom was +moist. Unsaddled, and turned the horses out. Commenced clearing out the +well the best way we could, with a quart pot and a small tin dish, having +unfortunately lost our shovel in crossing the McDonnell ranges. We had +great difficulty in keeping the horses out while we cleared it. To our +great disappointment we found the water coming in very slowly. We can +only manage, in an hour and a half, to get about six gallons, which must +be the allowance for each horse, and it will take us till to-morrow +morning to water them all. One of us is required to be constantly with +them to keep them back, and that he can hardly do; some of them will get +away from him do all he can. Kekwick's horse was nearly done up before we +reached this place; also one of the others. Those nearest to the +cart-breed give in first. + +Saturday, 5th May, Native Well. Got all the horses watered by 11 o'clock +a.m., and could only get about five gallons for each horse, although we +were employed the whole of the night, and got no sleep. Started for the +Fisher, and arrived at the native well at sundown. Were obliged to tie +the horses up, to keep them from getting into it. We could scarcely get +some of them as far as this, as they are quite done up. What was still +worse, we found the native well had fallen in since we left. It cannot be +helped: we must take things as they come. Commenced immediately to cut a +number of stakes, rushes, and grass, to keep the sand back, and by 3 +o'clock in the morning we got them all watered, and very thankful we were +to do so. It has been, and is still, bitter cold throughout the night and +morning, the wind still coming from the south-east. We had a pot of tea, +although we could ill afford it, and lay down and got a little sleep, +completely tired and worn out with hard work and want of rest. + +Sunday, 6th May, The Fisher. Got up at daybreak and went to the well, but +found that the rascals of horses had been there before us, and trodden in +one side of the well. They had as much water last night and morning as +they could drink, and the quantity that some of them drank was enormous. +I had no idea that a horse could hold so much, yet still they want more. +I shall remain here two days, put down more stakes, clear out the well, +and give them as much as they will drink. During this trying time I have +been very much pleased with the conduct of Kekwick and Ben; they have +exerted themselves to the utmost, and everything has been done with the +greatest alacrity and cheerfulness. Although they have only had two +hours' sleep during the last two nights, there has not been a single word +of dissatisfaction from either of them, which is highly gratifying to me. +It is, indeed, a great pleasure to have men that will do their work +without grumbling. Watered the horses as they came in. They do not now +drink a fourth part of what they did at first. + +Monday, 7th May, The Fisher. Had a good night's rest, and felt recovered +from the past fatigue. Started for the creek on the east side of Mount +Denison, to the water at which we camped before, keeping to the north +side of Mount Barkly in search of water, but could find none. Arrived at +the creek after dark. Kekwick's horse is entirely done up; he had to get +off and lead him for two miles. Another of the horses is nearly as bad, +but he managed to get to the creek. We found the water greatly reduced, +but still enough for us. + +Tuesday, 8th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I must remain here two +days to allow the horses to recover. I am afraid if we have such another +journey, I shall have to leave some of them behind. I do not know what is +the cause of their giving in so soon; I have had horses that have +suffered three times as much privation, and yet have held out. The light +ones are all right; it is the heavy ones, of the cart-horse breed, that +feel it most. I had been keeping them up on purpose for an occasion like +this, and they all looked in first-rate condition, but the work of the +past week has made a great alteration in some of them. I suppose the +young grass is not yet strong enough for them. It is very vexing to be +thus disappointed and delayed. To think that they should fail me at the +very moment when I expected them to do their best, and after all the +trouble and loss of time I have incurred in giving them short journeys! +However, I cannot improve it by complaining, and must rest contented and +hope for the best. Wind south-east. Storm brewing. + +Wednesday, 9th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Resting horses and +putting our things in order. Wind blowing very strong from the +south-east; it has continued nearly in the same quarter since March. + +Thursday, 10th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I find that I must give +the horses another day; they have not yet recovered, and I expect we +shall have some more hard work for them. We have not quite finished +mending. + +Friday, 11th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben was taken very ill +during the night, and is still so bad that I am obliged to remain here +another day. Afternoon: Ben feels much better, so I shall start +to-morrow. + +Saturday, 12th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben is better, and the +horses look as if they can stand a little more hardship. Started at 8.20 +on a bearing of 28 degrees east of north, to see if I can get on in that +direction. For fourteen miles our course was through mulga scrub and +spinifex, in some places very thick. At twenty-seven miles camped without +water. The country that we have passed over the last two days is +apparently destitute of water, even in rainy weather. I do not think the +ground would retain it a single day. Very little feed for the horses. + +Sunday, 13th May, Scrub and Gum Flat. I do not like the appearance of the +country. As I can see no hope of obtaining water on this course, I shall +change to the east, in order to cut the large gum creek that I crossed on +the 26th ultimo, and, if I find water in it, to follow it out to wherever +it goes. At three miles cut a small gum creek: searched for water both up +and down, but could find none, nor any appearance of it. Still keeping my +east course, we then passed through a very thick mulga scrub, and at ten +miles struck a low range of hills, composed of quartz, with a conical +peak, which I ascended. The prospect from this is very extensive, but +disheartening, apparently the same sort of scrubby country that I have +endeavoured to break through to the north-west. The view to the north is +dismal; there are a few isolated hills, seemingly the termination of John +range, and of the same formation as this that I am now on. To +east-south-east there appears to be a creek, to which I shall now go. At +three miles I reached what I had supposed to be a creek, but it is a +small narrow gum flat which receives the drainage from this low range. We +found a hole where there had been water, but it was all gone. I have +named the peak Mount Rennie, after Major Rennie of the Indian army. In +this small flat we shot a new macaw, which I shall carry with me, and +preserve the skin, if we get to water to-night. The front part of the +neck and underneath the wings is of a beautiful crimson hue, the back is +of a light lead colour, the tail square, the beak smaller than a +cockatoo's, and the crest the same as a macaw's. After leaving this flat, +we passed through some scrub, and came upon another of the same +description. Here I narrowly escaped being killed. My attention being +engaged looking for water, my horse took fright at a wallaby, and rushed +into some scrub, which pulled me from the saddle, my foot and the staff +that I carry for placing my compass on catching in the stirrup-iron. +Finding that he was dragging me, he commenced kicking at a fearful rate; +he struck me on the shoulder joint, knocked my hat off, and grazed my +forehead. I soon got clear, but found the kick on my shoulder very +painful. Mounted again, and at seven miles we came upon some more low +hills with another prominent peak of a dark-red sandstone. This I have +named Mount Peake, after E.J. Peake, Esquire, of Adelaide. I now find +that the gum creek which I crossed between Central Mount Stuart and Mount +Denison runs out and forms the gum plains we have just passed. No hope of +water. I must now bear in for the centre to get it. Passed through a very +thick, nasty mulga scrub for five miles, and camped again without water +under some low stony hills. I feel the effects of my accident very much. + +Monday, 14th May, Stony Hills, Mulga Scrub. Feel very stiff and ill. +Started at daylight, and passed through three belts of thick mulga scrub, +between which there were low stony hills. At three miles passed a small +gum creek, emptying itself into the scrub. At seventeen miles passed +another, doing the same; at twenty miles another, and at twenty-four +miles a third, under the hills north-west of Central Mount Stuart. This +has a very remarkable hill at the north-west, in the shape of a large +bottle with a long neck. We have had the greatest difficulty in getting +all our horses to the water; three of them are very bad; two have been +down a dozen times during the journey to-day. On approaching the range, +we passed through some large patches of kangaroo grass, growing very +thickly, and reaching to my shoulder when in the saddle. + +Tuesday, 15th May, Centre. The horses look very bad to-day; I shall +therefore give them three or four days' rest. It is very vexing, but it +cannot be helped. The water here will last about ten days. I shall cause +another search for more to be made; I myself am too unwell to assist. +Yesterday I rode in the greatest pain from the effects of my fall, and it +was with great difficulty that I was able to sit in the saddle until we +reached here. Scurvy also has taken a very serious hold of me; my hands +are a complete mass of sores that will not heal, but, when I remain for +two or three days in some place where I can get them well washed, they +are much better; if not, they are worse than ever, and I am rendered +nearly helpless. My mouth and gums are now so bad that I am obliged to +eat flour and water boiled. The pains in my limbs and muscles are almost +insufferable. Kekwick is also suffering from bad hands, but, as yet, has +no other symptoms. I really hope and trust that it will not be the cause +of my having to turn back. I suffered dreadfully during the past night. +This afternoon the wind has changed to the west--the first time since +March; a few clouds are coming up in that direction. + +Wednesday, 16th May, Centre. I despatched Kekwick at daybreak in search +of permanent water, with orders to devote the whole of two days to that +purpose. I must now do everything that is in my power to break this +barrier that prevents me from getting to the north. If I could only get +one hundred and twenty miles from this, I think there would be a chance +of reaching the coast. I wish the horses could endure the want of water a +day or two longer, but I fear they cannot; this last journey has tried +them to their utmost. Two of them look very wretched to-day, and will +with difficulty get over it; one I scarcely think will do so. I should +not have been afraid to have risked two more days with five of them. If +they had been all like these five, I should have tried to the north-west +a degree and back again without water. I have been suffering dreadfully +during the past three weeks from pains in the muscles, caused by the +scurvy, but the last two nights they have been most excruciating. Violent +pains darted at intervals through my whole body. My powers of endurance +were so severely tested, that, last night, I almost wished that death +would come and relieve me from my fearful torture. I am so very weak that +I must with patience abide my time, and trust in the Almighty. This +morning I feel a little easier; the medicines I brought with me are all +bad, and have no effect. The wind still from the north-west, with a few +light clouds. Towards sundown the wind has changed to the south-west; +heavy clouds coming from the north-west. + +Thursday, 17th May, Centre. Wind from the south; the heavy clouds +continued until sunrise, and then cleared off. I fully expected some +rain, but was disappointed. I have again had another dreadful night of +suffering; I had, however, about two hours' sleep, which, as it was the +only sleep I have had for the last three nights, was a great boon. This +morning I observe that the muscles of my limbs are changing from +yellow-green to black; my mouth is getting worse, and it is with +difficulty that I can swallow anything. I am determined not to give in; I +shall move about as long as I am able. I only wish the horses had been +all right, and then I should not have stayed here so long. Kekwick +returned at 3 o'clock, and reported having found water in the Hanson, +about fifteen miles from Central Mount Stuart, but only a small supply. +Beyond that the creek divides into two, one running north and the other +east, but he could see no more water further down. He also saw two +natives, armed with long spears, about three hundred yards off; they did +not observe him, and he thought it most prudent not to show himself, but +to remain behind a thick bush until they were gone. In this instance I +regret his caution, for I am anxious to see or hear what is the +appearance of the Central natives. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from +north-west. + +Friday, 18th May, Centre. I have again had a very bad night, and feel +unable to move to-day. Wind the same. + +Saturday, 19th May, Centre. I had a few hours' sleep last night, which +has been of great benefit to me. I shall attempt to move down to the +water in the Hanson. Arrived there about 1.30 completely done up from the +motion of the horse. The water is a few inches below the surface in the +sand. East side of Mount Stuart bearing 250 degrees, about ten miles +distant. I do not think the water is permanent. + +Sunday, 20th May, The Hanson. Another dreadful night for me. Wind and +clouds still coming from the north-west, but no rain. + +Monday, 21st May, The Hanson. Unable to move; very ill indeed. When shall +I get relief from this dreadful state? + +Tuesday, 22nd May, The Hanson. I got a little sleep last night, and feel +a great deal easier this morning, and shall try my horse back again. I +shall now steer north-east to a range of hills that I saw from the top of +Central Mount Stuart, and hope from these to obtain an entrance to the +north-west or north-east. I also hope to cut the creek that carries off +the surplus water from all the creeks which I have passed since March. It +must go somewhere, for it is difficult to believe that those numerous +bodies of water can be consumed by evaporation. Started on a bearing of +48 degrees, crossed the Hanson, running a little on our right; at six +miles crossed it again, running more to the north for two miles further. +We crossed four more of its courses, all running in the same direction. +The most easterly one is spread over a large salt-creek valley, and forms +a lagoon at the foot of some sand ridges, the highest of which is ten +miles and a half from our last camp. On the east side of it there is a +large lagoon, five miles long by one mile and a half broad, in which +water has lately been, but it is now dry. We then proceeded through a +little scrub, with splendid grass, and at twelve miles cut a small gum +creek, coming from the range. We saw a number of birds about, and there +were tracks of natives, quite fresh, in the creek. Sent Kekwick down it +to see if there were water, while I went up and examined it. This is the +large gum plain that we met with the day we made the Centre; it is +completely covered with grass. Kekwick ran the creek out. At about two +miles he observed a little water in the creek, where the natives had been +digging. He also came upon two of them, and two little children. They did +not observe him until he was within fifty yards, when they stood for a +few minutes paralysed with astonishment; then, snatching up the children, +ran off as quickly as their legs could carry them. They did not utter a +sound, although he called to them. He remarked that they had no hair on +their heads, or it was as short as if it had been burned off close. I +wish I had seen them; I should have overtaken them and seen if it were a +fact that the hair was burnt. It is reported in Adelaide that there are +natives in the interior without hair on their bodies. At fourteen miles +we again struck the creek, and found plenty of water in it. It winds all +over the plain in every direction. Camped for the night very much done +up. I could hardly sit in my saddle for this short distance. Wind +north-west. + +Wednesday, 23rd May, Gum Creek, East Range, the Stirling. The wind has +changed again to the south-east. I have named this creek the Stirling, +after the Honourable Edward Stirling, M.L.C. Followed it into the range +on the same course towards a bluff, where I think I shall find an easy +crossing. At one mile from the camp the hills commenced on the south-east +side of the creek, but on the north-west side they commenced three miles +further back. There was abundance of water in the creek for thirteen +miles; at ten miles there was another large branch with water coming from +the south-east. At fourteen miles ascended the bluff and obtained the +following bearings: South side of the creek, to a high part of the range +about two miles off (which I have named Mount Gwynne, after his Honour, +Justice Gwynne), 186 degrees. North side of the creek, to another hill +about two miles and a half off (which I have named Mount Mann, in memory +of the late Commissioner of Insolvency), 249 degrees. Central Mount +Stuart bears 131 degrees to the highest point. At the north-west +termination of the next range, to which I shall now go, there are two +very large hills, the north one, which is the highest, I have named Mount +Strzelecki, after Count Strzelecki, bearing 358 degrees. I have named the +high peak on the same range Mount Morphett, after the Honourable John +Morphett, M.L.C. The view from this bluff is extensive, except to the +west-north-west, which is hidden by this range just alluded to, which I +have named Forster Range, after the Honourable Anthony Forster, M.L.C. +From the south-west it has the appearance of a long continuous range, +but, on entering it, it is much broken into irregular and rugged hills: +on this side, the north-east, it consists of table-hills, with a number +of rugged isolated ones on the north side. To the north-west there is +another scrubby and gum-tree plain; to the north-north-west are some +isolated low ranges; to the north are grassy plains and low ranges; to +the east are several spurs from this range, which is composed of a very +hard dark-red stone, mixed with small round quartz and ironstone, and in +some places a hard flinty quartz. The range and hills are covered with +spinifex, but the valleys are beautifully grassed. We descended, and at +four miles struck a creek coming from the range, and running between two +low ranges towards the north-east. At seven miles changed my course to +north-east to camp in the creek, and endeavour to get water for the +horses before encountering the scrubby plains to-morrow morning. At five +miles came upon a low range, but no creek; it must have gone further to +the eastward. It being now quite dark, we camped under the ranges. Since +I changed my course I have come through a patch of mulga and other scrubs +with plenty of grass, but no watercourses. Wind south-east; heavy clouds +from the north-west; lightning in the south and west. + +Thursday, 24th May, Range of Low Hills. This morning I feel very ill from +climbing the bluff yesterday; I had no sleep during the night, the pains +being so very violent. About 9 o'clock we had a heavy shower of rain, and +a little more during the night. Very late before the horses were found, +and the atmosphere very thick, with the prospect of rain for the rest of +the day. This and my being so ill have decided me to remain here until +to-morrow, there being sufficient rain water for the horses. A few more +light showers during the afternoon and evening. Wind still the same; +heavy clouds from the north-west. + +Friday, 25th May, Range of Low Hills. I feel better this morning. The +clouds have all gone during the night, and it is now quite clear. Started +for Mount Strzelecki, passing through some very thick mulga scrub, with a +few gum-trees and plenty of grass. At twenty-one miles came upon a small +gum creek, where we gave the horses water, filled our own canteens, and +proceeded to the foot of the mount and camped. At a mile from its base +the spinifex begins again. Wind south-east. Very cold. + +Saturday, 26th May, Mount Strzelecki. Ascended the mount, and built a +cone of stones. To the east are hills connected with this range, which I +have named Crawford Range, after ---- Crawford, Esquire, of Adelaide. To +the east-north-east is a large wooded undulating plain, with another +range in the extreme distance. To the north-east the distant range +continues with the same plain between. At a bearing of 55 degrees is a +large lagoon, in which there appears to be a little water. To the +north-north-east the plain appears to be rather more scrubby, and with a +few sand hills. To the north the point of the distant range is lost sight +of by some high scrubby land. To the west there are a few low hills, from +fifteen to twenty-five miles distant. This range is composed of a hard +flinty quartz, partly of a blue colour, with a little ironstone. We can +find no permanent water in this range, but, from the two or three native +tracks, quite fresh, which we have passed, I think there must be some +about. Descended, and proceeded round the range to the lagoon, the range +being too rough to cross. There is not enough water to be a drink for the +horses. Camped. Very heavy clouds from the north-west. The mount is about +four miles distant. At sundown there was a beautiful rain for an hour. It +is very strange, the clouds come from the north-west, and the wind from +the south-east. The rain seems to be coming against the wind. + +Sunday, 27th May, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. We had a few +heavy showers during the night, but it seems as if the rain would now +clear off. I hope not, for there is only about two inches of water in the +lagoon. I am again suffering much pain from the exertion it cost me to +climb Mount Strzelecki, and from assisting in building the cone of +stones; but if I did not put my hands to almost everything that is +required, I should never get on. My party is too small. It is killing +work. + +Monday, 28th May, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. We could not get +a start till 9.15, the horses having strayed to a distant bank for +shelter from the wind, which was piercingly cold. I had, in the first +instance, to go three miles north-north-west, in order to clear the low +stony range that runs on to the east side of the lagoon. I then changed +to 22 degrees to the far-distant range. For the first three miles our +course was through a very thick mulga scrub, with plenty of grass, and +occasionally a little spinifex; it then changed to a slightly undulating +country of a reddish soil, with gum and cork-trees, and numerous low +sandy plains, much resembling the gum and spinifex plains to the west, +where I was twice beaten back. It certainly is a desert country. Camped +without water on a little patch of grass. Distance to-day, twenty-eight +miles. Wind south-east. Very cold all day. + +Tuesday, 29th May, Scrub, Spinifex and Gum-Trees. Started at 8 on the +same course for the range, which is still distant, through the same +description of country. At seven miles we came upon a plain of long +grass, which seems to have been flooded. It is about two miles broad. +Between this and the first hill of the range we passed four more of the +same description. Distance to the first hill, fourteen miles. In another +mile we struck a small creek; searched for water, but could find none, +although birds were numerous; thence through another mulga scrub, and +after crossing a number of rough stony hills, we arrived at the top of +the range, which I have named Davenport Range, after the Honourable +Samuel Davenport, M.L.C. It is composed of hard red sandstone, with +courses of quartz. I find this is not the range for which I am bound. +Although this one is high, the other is still higher, and, I should +think, is still forty or fifty miles distant. The day is thick, and I +cannot see distinctly. Between these ranges is a large plain, more open +than those we have come over. To the north the range appears to +terminate; to the west of north, in the far distance, just visible, are +two high hills, the northernmost of which is conical. To the east and +south-east is the plain and range; to the west, continuation of the same +plain that we have come over in the last two days' journey. Although we +had some heavy showers at the lagoon, we have not passed a single +water-course, except the one we crossed a few miles before we made this +range, nor did we see a drop of surface water: it seems to be all +absorbed the moment that it falls. Descended the north-north-east side of +the range, and at a mile and a half found some rain water in a creek, +coming from the range. Camped. Wind south-east. Distance, twenty miles. + +Wednesday, 30th May, The Davenport Range. I find this water will not last +more than three days. I have determined to remain here to-day, and have +sent Kekwick in search of more water. As I am now a little better, I must +get my plan brought up. It has got in arrear, in consequence of my hands +being so bad with the scurvy. My limbs are much easier, yet the riding is +still very painful; my mouth also is much better, so that I am led to +hope that the disease will soon leave me. Native tracks about here, and +when I was on the top of the range I saw smoke in the scrub a few miles +to the north-west. Sundown: I am quite surprised that Kekwick has not +returned, as my instructions to him were not to go above five or six +miles, and then to return whether he found water or not. I am very much +afraid that something has happened to him. + +Thursday, 31st May, The Davenport Range. Kekwick has not returned. I +begin to feel very uneasy about him. I must be off and follow up his +tracks. Sent Ben for the horses. He was a long time in finding them, as +is generally the case when one wants a thing in a hurry. 9.30: Kekwick +has arrived before the horses; he overshot his mark last night, and got +beyond the camp. I am very glad he is all safe. He informs me that he +came upon plenty of water a few miles from here, which compensates for +the anxiety he caused me during the night. His reason for not returning +as I had directed was that he crossed a gum creek which had so promising +an appearance, that he was induced to follow it to the plains, where he +found an abundance of water. While he was riding he was taken very ill, +and was unable to come on for some time, which made it so late that he +could not see to reach the camp. He is unable to proceed to-day, which is +vexing, for I wish to get on as quickly as possible. + +Friday, 1st June, The Davenport Range. The horses having strayed, we did +not get a start till late. Our course was 22 degrees, and at two miles we +struck a small gum creek coming from the range and running +west-north-west. At three miles and a half we crossed a larger one coming +from, and running in, the same direction. Then commenced again the same +sort of country that we passed through the other day. At eight miles +struck a splendid large gum creek or river, having long and deep reaches +of water with fish four or five inches in length; it is running through +the plain as far as I can see, which is only a short distance, the ground +being low and level. Its course at this place is to the west-north-west; +it is very broad, and in some places the banks are perpendicular, and are +well grassed and covered with fine gum-trees, mulga and other bushes. +From bank to bank its width is about ten chains. This is the finest creek +for water that we have passed since leaving Chambers Creek. The day being +far advanced, I shall camp here, and get to the range to-morrow. I am +very much inclined to follow this creek and see where it empties itself; +but I expect to find a large one close to the range, or on the other +side. I wish also to get on the top to see what the country on ahead is +like. The fact of fish being in this creek leads me to think that it does +not empty itself into the gum plains, like others lately passed, but that +it must flow either into the sea on the north-west coast, or into a lake. +I have named it the Bonney Creek, after Charles Bonney, Esquire, late +Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia. + +Saturday, 2nd June, The Bonney Creek. Started at 8.20 on the same course, +22 degrees, for the range, through a country of alternate spinifex and +grass with a little mulga scrub. At seven miles we struck another large +gum creek with every appearance of water, but I had no time to look for +it, being anxious to make the range to-night, and endeavour to find water +either on this side or on the other. The creek is large, and resembles +the last. I have named it the McLaren, after John McLaren, Esquire, late +Deputy Surveyor-General of South Australia. At seventeen miles, after +passing through a well-grassed country with a little scrub, we reached +the top of the first range, which is composed of a hard white +granite-looking rock, with courses of quartz running through it. I have +three or four spurs to cross yet before I make the main range. So far as +I can see, McLaren Creek is running much in the same direction as the +Bonney. Started from the top of the range and had a very difficult job in +crossing the spurs. About sundown arrived all safe on a gum flat, between +the ranges, and attempted to get upon what appears to be the highest +range, but getting up the horses deterred us. We then sought for water +among the numerous gum creeks which cover the plain, and at dark found +some, and camped. There is a good supply of water, but I do not think it +is permanent; it will last, however, for a month or six weeks. I have +named these ranges the Murchison, after Sir Roderick Murchison, President +of the Royal Geographical Society, London. Wind varying. + +Sunday, 3rd June, Murchison Ranges. I feel very unwell this morning, from +the rough ride yesterday. It was my intention to have walked to the top +of the range to-day, but I am not able to do so. The small plain between +the ranges is a bed of soft white sandstone, through which the different +creeks have cut deep courses; the stones on the surface (igneous +principally), are composed of iron, quartz, dark black and blue stone, +also a bright red one, all run together and twisted into every sort of +nick, as also with the limestone, and many other sorts which I do not +know. This plain is covered with a most hard spinifex, very difficult to +get the horses to face. In another creek, about one mile south-west from +the camp, is a large water hole which will last six months; it is ten +yards long by twenty yards wide. + +Monday, 4th June, Murchison Ranges. Started on a course of 330 degrees to +round this spur of the ranges, and at four miles and a half changed to 15 +degrees to the high point of the range, and at three miles arrived on the +top. I have named it Mount Figg. The view from this is extensive. The +course of this range from the south to this point is 25 degrees; it then +makes a turn to the north-north-west, in which direction the country +appears more open, with some patches of thick scrub, and high ranges in +the distance. From north-west to west it appears to be gum plain, with +open patches of grass, and a number of creeks running into it from the +range. I shall change my course to a high peak on the north-west point of +the range, which bears from this 340 degrees 30 minutes. This range is +volcanic here, and is of the same formation as I have already given. +Started from the top of the mount at 12 o'clock. Went for eight miles +along the side of the range, and met with a small gum creek running on +our course; followed it up for three miles without finding water; it then +took a more westerly course, so I left it to pursue my route. After +leaving the mount, the range is composed of red sandstone with a little +quartz. We have occasionally met with a little limestone gravel. Camped +at 6 o'clock, without water. + +Tuesday, 5th June, Gum-Tree Plain. Started on the same course at 7 +o'clock for the high peak, through the same sort of country as yesterday. +No watercourse. At fifteen miles ascended the peak, which I have named +Mount Samuel, after my brother. The top is a mass of nearly pure +ironstone. It attracted the compass 160 degrees. From north to west are +broken ranges and isolated hills of a volcanic character, in all sorts of +shapes. The isolated hills seem to be the termination of these ranges, +which run nearly north and south. I have named them the McDouall Ranges, +after Colonel McDouall, of the 2nd Life Guards, Logan, Wigtownshire. I +then changed my course to the north-north-east in search of water, there +being no appearance of any to the north-north-west. After travelling five +miles over small grassy, scrubby plains, between isolated hills and +gum-trees, I could not find a water-course, so I changed to the east, to +try if I could see anything from a high hill, which I ascended, and +discovered a gum creek coming from the range on the east side. Followed +it down, and, one mile and a half from the top, found a splendid hole of +water in the rock, very deep, and permanent. The creek is very rocky, and +its course here is north-east into the plain. Wind south-east. Clouds +from the north-west. + +Wednesday, 6th June, Gum Creek, North-east Side of the McDouall Ranges. +There being nothing but spinifex on the ranges and creeks, the horses had +been travelling nearly all night in search of food, and had gone a long +way before they were overtaken. This morning saddled and got a start by +11 o'clock on a course of 340 degrees, crossing numerous creeks and stout +spinifex, through which we had great difficulty in driving the horses. At +five miles struck a gum creek in which we found water. The banks have +excellent feed upon them, and in abundance, so, for the sake of the +horses, I have determined to remain here to-day. This creek, which I have +named Tennant Creek, after John Tennant, Esquire, of Port Lincoln, runs +east. In searching for the horses this morning Ben found three or four +more large water holes in the adjoining creek, a little south-east from +this. Before we reached this, we crossed some marks very much resembling +old horse-tracks. + +Thursday, 7th June, Tennant Creek, McDouall Ranges. Started at 7.20. +Course, 340 degrees. At three miles passed through an immense number of +huge granite rocks piled together and scattered about in every direction, +with a few small water-courses running amongst them to the eastward. We +then encountered a rather thick scrub, and occasionally crossed a few low +quartz rises coming from the McDouall ranges. At fourteen miles ascended +the highest of them, which I have named Mount Woodcock, after the +Venerable the Archdeacon of Adelaide. To the north-west and north is +another range, about ten miles distant, which seems to continue a long +way. I will change my course to 315 degrees, which will take me to the +highest point. At two miles on this course came upon a gum creek running +to the north-east, which I named Bishop Creek; followed it for one mile +and a half, and found water, which will last a month or six weeks, and an +immense number of birds. This is a camping-place of the natives, who seem +to have been here very lately. We watered the horses and proceeded +towards the range. At about two miles passed a low rugged ironstone +range, peculiar in having a large square mass of ironstone standing by +itself about the centre. I have named it Mount Sinclair, after James +Sinclair, of Port Lincoln. Passed through a thick scrub, among which we +saw a very handsome bush that was new to us, having a blue-green leaf ten +inches long by six inches broad. We looked for some seed, but could not +find any. At five miles crossed a grassy gum plain, where a creek empties +itself. The same scrub continues to the range, which we reached at twelve +miles from the water. It is not very high, but rough and steep, and we +had great difficulty in getting to the top, but after many twistings and +turnings and scramblings, we arrived there all right, and found it to be +table land. At fourteen miles camped without water. The range is composed +of ironstone, granite, quartz and red sandstone, running north of west +and south of east. I have named it Short Range, after the Right Reverend +the Lord Bishop of Adelaide. + +Friday, 8th June, Short Range. Started at 8 o'clock on the same course, +315 degrees, to some very distant rising grounds. Short range seems to +run nearly parallel to our course, as also does another distant range to +the north, which I have named Sturt Range, after Captain Sturt. The table +land continued about two miles, and then there was a gradual descent to +the plains, and we entered a thick scrub with spinifex and gums. At +eighteen miles came upon a beautiful plain of grass, having large +gum-trees, and a new description of tree, the foliage of which is a +dark-green and rather round, and the bark rough and of a dark colour. +Here also was the cork-tree, and numerous other shrubs. This grassy plain +continued for thirty-one miles, until we camped, but the last part is not +so good. When I struck this plain, I was in great hopes of finding a +large creek of water, but have been disappointed; we have not crossed a +single water-course in thirty-one miles. Camped at sundown. No water. +Wind south-east. + +Saturday, 9th June, Grassy Plain. There is some rising ground a few miles +further on, to which I shall go in search of a creek; I might be able to +see something from it. If I do not find water I shall have to retreat to +Bishop Creek, as the horses have now been two nights without water. +Started at 7 o'clock, same course, 315 degrees, through scrub and a light +sandy soil. At four miles got to the rise, which is a scrubby sand-hill. +From this I can see nothing, the scrub being so thick; it is of a nasty, +tough, wiry description, and has torn our hands and saddle-bags to +pieces. I got up a tree to look over the top of this scrub, which is +about twelve feet high, and I could see our course for a long distance; +it appears to be the same terrible scrub, with no sign of any creeks. It +is very vexing to get thus far, and have to turn back, when perhaps +another day's journey would bring me to a better country. I shall now try +a south course, and cut the grassy plains to the westward, in the hope of +finding water; if so, I shall be able to make two days' journey to the +north-west. Started on a south course for fourteen miles, through scrub +and small grassy plains alternately, but we could find neither creek nor +water. I now regret that I attempted the south course, which makes the +distance from the water so much greater. Wind still south-east; heavy +clouds coming from the north-west, I trust it will rain before morning. + +Sunday, 10th June, Grassy Plains. Started at sunrise, and at two miles +again got into the scrub. Three of the horses we can scarcely get along; +they are very much done up. At 11 o'clock, one horse gave in altogether. +We cannot get him up; we have tried everything in our power to do +something for him. The other horses have been carrying his load, and he +has had nothing to carry for this last hour and a half; all our efforts +are in vain, and I am obliged, although with great reluctance, to leave +him to his fate. Had this occurred nearer the water, I should have put an +end to his existence and taken part of him to eat, for we are now very +short of provisions, and the other horses have quite enough to carry +without sharing his load; I wish I had left him sooner. At 12 o'clock, I +find I shall lose some more of them, if they do not get water to-night, +and it will be to-morrow before I can reach Bishop Creek. I shall now go +to Short range and try to find some. The little bay mare Polly has become +nearly mad, running about among the other horses, and kicking them as she +passes; even the men do not escape from her heels. At five miles made the +range. There are no large creeks coming from this side--nothing but small +ones which empty themselves into the plain; sand up to the foot of the +hills. Before we reach the range another of the horses is done up; he has +only been carrying about 30 pounds in consequence of his back having been +bad for the last three weeks. We lightened all the weak horses two days +since. We shall now try if he will go without anything on his back. We +are now amongst the granite ridges, and hope we shall find water on this +side. The horse has given in before we can get to the other side. We must +leave him for the sake of the others. Too much time has already been lost +in endeavouring to get them on. Reached the other side and searched the +different creeks, but cannot find any water. Crossed a spur of the range +running south, and can see a nice-looking creek with gum-trees. Our hopes +and spirits are again revived; the sight of it has even invigorated the +horses, and they are hurrying on towards it. Traversed it down, but, to +our great disappointment, find that it loses itself in a grassy plain. It +is now dark, so I must remain here for the night. The sky is quite +overcast, and I trust that Providence will send us rain before morning. +An accident has happened to the water we were carrying; it was all lost +yesterday. If it clears during the night, so that I can see the stars to +guide me, I shall move on. + +Monday, 11th June, Short Range. During the night there were a few drops +of rain, which again raised our hopes, and about 4 o'clock it looked as +if we were to have a deluge, but, alas! it only rained for about two +minutes, and as much fell as would wet a pocket-handkerchief. Saddled and +started through the range, my poor little mare looking very bad this +morning; I have taken everything off her, so that she may hold out until +we get to water, and I have been obliged to leave as many things at this +camp as I could possibly do without. The mare lies down every few yards, +I am therefore compelled to leave her for the sake of the others. From +the number of birds about here, I think there must be water near; I hope +she may find it, although I am afraid she is too far gone even to try it. +At 1 o'clock, at the foot of Mount Woodcock, the horses' spirits revived +at sight of their old track. I shall now be able to get all the rest of +them safe to water, although there is one still doubtful. My own black +mare shows a few symptoms of madness, but still keeps on, and does her +work well. About an hour before sundown arrived at the water without any +more losses, for which I sincerely thank the Almighty. We have had a +terrible job to keep the horses from drinking too much water, but, as +they have now eaten a few mouthfuls of grass, I have allowed them to +drink as much as they thought proper. The natives have been here since we +left. + +Tuesday, 12th June, Bishop Creek. Resting: the horses look very bad; they +remained by the water all night. + +Wednesday, 13th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still look very bad this +morning; they have again stayed by the water nearly all night; they had +been one hundred and one hours without a drop, and have accomplished a +journey of one hundred and twelve miles; they will require a week to +recover; one of them is very lame from a kick the little mare gave him in +her madness. Thus ends my last attempt, at present, to make the Victoria +River; three times have I tried it, and have been forced to retreat. +About 11 o'clock I heard the voice of a native; looked round and could +see two in the scrub, about a quarter of a mile distant. I beckoned to +them to approach, but they kept making signs which I could not +understand. I then moved towards them, but the moment they saw me move, +they ran off immediately. About a quarter of an hour afterwards they +again made their appearance on the top of the quartz reef, opposite our +camp, and two others showed themselves in about the same place as the two +first did. Thinking this was the only water, I made signs to the two on +the reef to go to the water; but they still continued talking and making +signs which I could not understand; it seemed as if they wished us to go +away, which I was determined not to do. They then made a number of +furious frantic gestures, shaking their spears, and twirling them round +their heads, etc. etc., I suppose bidding us defiance. I should think the +youngest was about twenty-five years of age. He placed a very long spear +into the instrument they throw them with, and, after a few more gestures, +descended from the reef, and gradually came a little nearer. I made signs +of encouragement for him to come on, at the same time moving towards him. +At last we arrived on the banks of the creek, he on one side, and I on +the other. He had a long spear, a womera, and two instruments like the +boomerang, but more the shape of a scimitar, with a very sharp edge, +having a thick place at the end, roughly carved, for the hand. The +gestures he was making were now signs of hostility, and he came fully +prepared for war. I then broke a branch of green leaves from a bush, and +held it up towards him, inviting him to come across to me. As he did not +seem to fancy that, I crossed to where he was, and got within two yards +of him. He thought I was quite near enough, and would not have me any +nearer, for he kept moving back as I approached. I wished to get close up +to him, but he would not have it; we then stood still, and I tried to +make him understand, by signs, that all we wanted was water for two or +three days. At last he seemed to understand, nodded his head, pointed to +the water, then to our camp, and held up his five fingers. I then +endeavoured to learn from him if there was water to the north or +north-east, but I could make nothing of him. He viewed me very steadily +for a long time, began talking, and seeing that I did not understand him, +he made the sign that natives generally do of wanting something to eat, +and pointed towards me. Whether he meant to ask if I was hungry, or to +suggest that I should make a very good supper for him, I do not know, but +I bowed my head as if I understood him perfectly. We then separated, I +keeping a careful watch upon him all the time I was crossing the creek. +Before I left him the other one joined. The first was a tall, powerful, +well-made fellow, upwards of six feet; his hair was very long, and he had +a red-coloured net tied round his head, with the ends of his hair lying +on his shoulders. I observed nothing else that was peculiar about them. +They had neither skins nor anything round their bodies, but were quite +naked. They then took their departure. A short time afterwards I saw them +joined by five others. We have seen nothing more of them to-day, and I +hope they will not trouble us any more, but let me get my horses rested +in peace. Wind south, all the clouds gone; nights and mornings very cold. +Occupied during the day in shoeing horses, and repairing and making +saddle-bags. + +Thursday, 14th June, Bishop Creek. On examining the water holes, I find +there are small crab fish in them, which leads me to think this water is +permanent. This morning we again hear the voices of the natives up the +creek to the west. There must be plenty more water up there, as most of +the birds go in that direction to drink, passing by this water. The +natives have not come near us to-day, but we have seen the smoke of their +fires. Shoeing horses, repairing and making saddle-bags, which were torn +all to pieces by the scrub. + +Friday, 15th June, Bishop Creek. Resting horses, and getting our +equipment in order for another trial, as I think the horses will be ready +to start on Monday morning. No more of the natives but their smoke is +still visible. Wind south; day hot, night cool. + +Saturday, 16th June, Bishop Creek. The horses are still drinking an +immense quantity of water; they are at it five and six times a day; they +must have suffered dreadfully. The grass here is as dry as if it were the +middle of summer, instead of winter. I hope we may soon have rain, which +would be a great blessing to me. + +Sunday, 17th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still pay frequent visits to +the water. We have found more about a mile up the creek, and there seems +to be plenty further up in the hills; I cannot examine it just now, in +consequence of the natives being about. It would not do for me to leave, +as the party is so small, nor do I like sending one of them, for he might +be taken by surprise and cut off, which would ruin me altogether, being +able to do scarcely anything myself. Although I am much better, I am +still very weak; the pains in my limbs are not so constant. I attribute +the relief to eating a number of native cucumbers which are in quantities +on this creek. The horse that was kicked by the mare is still very lame. +Wind south-east. + +Monday, 18th June, Bishop Creek. Started at 9.30 on a bearing of 18 +degrees, through a plain of alternate grass, scrub, and spinifex, and at +five miles passed a number of isolated hills close together, composed of +large masses of ironstone, quartz, and a hard brown rock, very irregular, +and all sorts of shapes; the stones seem as if they had undergone the +action of fire. We then proceeded through some very bad spinifex, +dark-coloured, long, hard and dry; we could scarcely get the horses to +face it. We then came upon a grassy plain, and at ten miles struck a gum +creek coming from the west of north-west, and running (at this place) +east-north-east; followed it and found an abundance of water in long deep +holes, with shells of the crab fish lying on the banks. The water is +upwards of a mile in length; the creek then spreads out over a grassy +plain with scrub and gum-trees, and is joined by the other creeks coming +from the McDouall range. I thought it advisable to camp here for the rest +of the day, as a further journey would be a risk for the horse that is +lame, and I do not wish to lose any more; as it is, I am afraid he will +not be able to cross Short range, which I hope to do in a few hours. +Natives about. Splendid grass on this plain, and on the banks of the +creek, which I have named Phillips Creek, after John Phillips, Esquire, +J.P., of Kanyaka. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 19th June, Phillips Creek. Started at 8 o'clock on the same +bearing, 18 degrees. We first passed through a well-grassed plain with a +little scrub, then again through hard spinifex to the range. At one mile +crossed another gum creek with water in it, coming from Short range. At +four miles reached the top of the spur of the range; and at seven miles, +the top of the range. About two miles to the east, the range seems to +terminate in a gum plain, a spur from the McDouall range running on the +other side of the plain, and crossing our line a few miles further on. +Short range here is composed of quartz, ironstone, and red granite, with +a little limestone. Descended into the plain, and at ten miles came upon +another gum creek, spreading over a grassy plain, but could find no +water. At thirteen miles came upon some dry swamps with a number of birds +about them. At fourteen miles reached the top of the next range. From +this the appearance of the country, on this course, is evidently very +scrubby. On a bearing of 55 degrees, in the far distance, is the +termination of another range. I do not like facing the scrub again so +soon after my late loss, and with my horses not yet recovered. I shall +return to the swamps and look for water. If I find any, I shall start in +the morning for the end of the distant range. My lame horse is unable to +do more to-day; crossing the range has been very hard upon him. Returned +to the swamps and found a fine pond of water. Camped. The water is +derived from the creek that we passed in the middle of the day. I have +named these ponds after Kekwick, in token of the zeal and activity he has +displayed during the expedition. + +Wednesday, 20th June, Kekwick Ponds. Saddled at sunrise, and proceeded to +the top of the low range, from which I turned back yesterday, and changed +my course to 56 degrees to the northernmost point of the distant hills, +through a plain of alternate grass and spinifex. At 3 o'clock struck the +William Creek again, with splendid grass on its banks. It ran nearly our +course for about three miles, and then turned to the east. We then +entered the same sort of scrub as that in which I lost my horses; this +continued until we reached the hills, which we did in about eighteen +miles. From this we can see a range to the south-south-east. About ten +miles off there is a large lake, with red sand hills on the east side. I +cannot see the extent of it, the hills that I am now on being so low; +they are composed of granite, and run north and south. To the north and +north-east is another lake, about the same distance, to which I shall go +on a course of 32 degrees 30 minutes. On the north side of this one there +are also sand hills with scrub. For two miles after leaving the hills we +passed through a soft, sandy, scrubby country and spinifex. It then +became harder, with grass and spinifex alternately. At four miles from +the hills we camped without water. My horses have not recovered from +their last trial, and seem to be very tired to-night, although to-day's +journey was not a long one, but it has been very hot, and the scrub thick +and difficult to get through. + +Thursday, 21st June, Scrub. The horses having gone back on the track, we +did not get a start until 8.30--course, 32 degrees 30 minutes to a high +hill on the other side of the lake, passing through a thick scrub of +cork-tree and gums, with spinifex and grass. At seven miles came upon +what I thought was the lake, but it turns out to be a large plain of rich +alluvial soil covered with dry grass, which gave it the appearance of a +lake. It was three miles across to the top of the hill; no water-course +through, nor any water to be seen. The hills on the north side are +composed of ironstone and granite, and, from the distance, looked very +much like sand hills. From the top of the hill I can see the plain +extending a little to the west of north, but I cannot see far for the +mirage. To the north-north-east is another plain of the same description, +but much smaller, about a mile and a half broad, and nearly circular. To +the north-east is another very extensive one; its dimensions I cannot +see. I seem to have got into the land of grassy plains and low stony +hills. I wish my horses had had water last night or yesterday. They seem +to be very much in want of it. I must devote the rest of this day to a +search for it. I shall now direct my course for the south part of the +plain that I have just crossed; it seems to be the lowest part, and the +flight of the birds is directed that way. Searched all round, but can +find no water; so I must return to Kekwick Ponds. The day is extremely +hot, and my horses cannot stand two more nights without water. Would that +they had more endurance! It is dreadful to have to turn back almost at +the threshold of success. I cannot be far from the dip of the country to +the Gulf. Returned by another course to where I camped last night, but +still no water. I would fain try the plain to the south, but I dare not +risk the loss of more horses. Proceeded to the low range that I crossed +yesterday; examined round it, but cannot find any water. Camped. Two of +the horses very much done up. I must go back through that nasty scrub +again. + +Friday, 22nd June, Under the West Low Range. Started at sunrise for the +ponds, and at 1.30 arrived; the horses being very much exhausted. I am +glad I did not remain another night without water; three of them are +completely done up, and it has been with difficulty that we have got them +here. Wind south-west. + +Saturday, 23rd June, Kekwick Ponds. Resting horses. About 1 o'clock we +were visited by two natives, who presented us with four opossums and a +number of small birds and parrots. They were much frightened at first, +but after a short time became very bold, and, coming to our camp, wanted +to steal everything they could lay their fingers on. I caught one +concealing the rasp that is used in shoeing the horses under the netting +he had round his waist, and was obliged to take it from him by force. The +canteens they seemed determined to have, and it was with difficulty we +could get them from them. They wished to pry into everything, until I +lost all patience and ordered them off. In about half an hour two other +young men approached the camp. Thinking they might be in want of water, +and afraid to come to it on account of the horses, I sent Ben with a tin +dishful, which they drank. They were very young men, and too much +frightened to come any nearer. About an hour before sundown, one of the +first that had come, returned, bringing with him three others, two of +whom were young, tall, powerful, well made, and good-looking, and as fine +specimens of the native as I have yet seen. On their heads they had a +neatly-fitting hat or helmet close to the brow, and rising straight up to +a rounded peak, three or four inches above the head and gradually +becoming narrower towards the back part. The outside was net-work; the +inside was composed of feathers very tightly bound together with cord +until it was as hard as a piece of wood; it may be used as a protection +from the sun, or as armour for the battle-field. One of them had a great +many scars upon him, and seemed to be a leading man. Only two had helmets +on, the others had pieces of netting bound round their foreheads. One was +an old man, and seemed to be the father of these two fine young men. He +was very talkative, but I could make nothing of him. I have endeavoured, +by signs, to get information from him as to where the next water is, but +we cannot understand each other. After some time, and having conferred +with his two sons, he turned round, and surprised me by giving me one of +the Masonic signs. I looked at him steadily; he repeated it, and so did +his two sons. I then returned it, which seemed to please them much, the +old man patting me on the shoulder and stroking down my beard. They then +took their departure, making friendly signs until they were out of sight. +We enjoyed a good supper from the opossums, which we have not had for +many a day. The men are complaining of weakness from the want of +sufficient nourishment. I find the quantity of rations is not enough; +five pounds of flour per week is too little for many weeks together. It +may do very well for a month or so, but when it comes to the length of +time we have been out, we all feel it very much; and the dried meat that +I brought with me being very young, it has not half the strength in it +that old meat has. + +Sunday, 24th June, Kekwick Ponds. Our black friends have not made their +appearance to-day. + +Monday, 25th June, Kekwick Ponds. Started again on a bearing of 345 +degrees to some very distant hills, to see if I can get into the face of +the country to the Gulf of Carpentaria. At two miles crossed a large gum +creek (with long beds of concrete ironstone), which I have named Hayward +Creek, after Frederick Hayward, Esquire. The banks are beautifully +grassed, and extend for four miles on the north side. At fourteen miles +struck a gum creek with large sheets of water in which were plenty of +ducks, native companions, black shags, cranes, and other birds. Camped +here for the remainder of the day. The course of the creek at this point +is to the north of east, and coming from the north of west, apparently +from the range, which is distant about ten miles. It very much resembles +Chambers Creek. The ponds (in which we found some small fish) are about +eighty yards broad, and about three quarters of a mile long, having large +masses of concrete ironstone at both ends, separating the one pond from +the other; large gum-trees being in the ponds. Wind north-west. Very hot. + +Tuesday, 26th June, Large Gum Creek, with Sheets of Water. I have +resolved to follow this creek down to-day, and, if the water continues, +to follow it out. Started on a course 77 degrees, and at six miles +crossed the creek, which is running a little more to the north. There are +long sheets of water all the way down to this, the banks in some places +being steep, with the lower part formed of concrete, and the upper red +sandy soil, which gives me a bad opinion of it for water, if the concrete +ceases. Here we saw some blacks; they would not come near us, but walked +off as fast as they could. From the top of the rise we saw where they +were camped, on the banks of a large sheet of water; we passed on without +taking any more notice of them, and at nine miles, not seeing any +appearance of the creek, I changed my course to 25 degrees. At three +quarters of a mile cut it again, but without water in it; it is much +narrower and deeper, having sandy banks and bed. Changed again to 77 +degrees, the creek frequently crossing our course, and at fifteen miles +saw there was no hope of obtaining water. The country is becoming more +sandy, and is thickly covered with spinifex and scrub. We crossed down to +the banks of the creek; no rising ground visible. I must keep closer to +the hills, and, as the day has been very hot, I shall return and camp at +nine miles from our last camp, if there is water; if not, I shall have to +camp a short way above where we saw the natives this morning. I do not +wish to get too near them, or to annoy them in any way. We could find no +water below where they were camped; I therefore pushed on to get above +them before dark. At half-past one o'clock, about three miles from the +creek, we saw where they had been examining our tracks, and as we +approached the creek their tracks became very numerous on ours. When we +arrived on the top of the rise, where we had previously seen their camp +and fires, we could now see nothing of them, neither smoke, fires, nor +anything else: it was then nearly dark. I concluded they had left in +consequence of having seen us pass in the morning, as natives in general +do. I was moving on to the place where we crossed the creek in the +morning, when suddenly from behind some scrub which we had just entered, +up started three tall powerful fellows fully armed, having a number of +boomerangs, waddies, and spears. Their distance from us was about two +hundred yards. It being so nearly dark, and the scrub we were then in +placing us at a disadvantage, I wished to pass without taking any notice +of them, but such was not their intention, for they continued to approach +us, calling out and making all sorts of gestures apparently of defiance. +I then faced them, making every sign of friendship I could think of. They +seemed to be in a great fury, moving their boomerangs above their head, +bawling at the top of their voices, and performing some sort of a dance. +They were now joined by more of their tribe, so that in a few minutes +their numbers had increased to upwards of thirty; every bush seemed to +produce a man. Putting the horses on towards the creek, and placing +ourselves between them and the natives, I told my men to get their guns +ready, for I could see they were determined upon mischief. They paid no +regard to all the signs of friendship I kept constantly making, but were +still gradually approaching nearer and nearer to us. I felt very +unwilling to fire upon them, and still continued making signs of peace +and friendship, but all to no purpose. Their leader, an old man, who was +in advance, made signs with his boomerang, which we took as a signal for +us to be off. They were, however, intended as tokens of defiance, for I +had no sooner turned my horse's head to comply with what I thought were +their wishes, than we received a shower of boomerangs, accompanied by a +fearful yell; they then set fire to the grass, and commenced jumping, +dancing, yelling, and throwing their arms into all sorts of postures, +like so many fiends. In addition to the thirty that already confronted +us, I could now see many others getting up from behind the bushes. Still +I felt unwilling to fire upon them, and tried again to make them +understand that we wished to do them no harm. Having now approached +within about forty yards of us, they made another charge, and threw their +boomerangs, which came whistling and whizzing past our ears, one of them +striking my horse. I then gave orders to fire, which stayed their mad +career for a little. Our pack-horses, which were on before us, took +fright when they heard the firing and fearful yelling, and made off for +the creek. Seeing some of the blacks running from bush to bush, with the +intention of cutting us off from our horses, while those in front were +still yelling, throwing their boomerangs, and coming nearer to us, we +gave them another reception, and I sent Ben after the horses to drive +them on to a more favourable place, while Kekwick and I remained to cover +our rear. We soon got in advance of those who were endeavouring to cut us +off, but they still kept following, though beyond the reach of our guns, +the fearful yelling still continuing from more numerous voices, and fires +springing up in every direction. It being now quite dark, with the +country scrubby, and our enemies bold and daring, we could be easily +surrounded and destroyed by such determined fellows as they have shown +themselves to be. Seeing there is no hope with such fearful odds (ten to +one at least) against us, and knowing all the disadvantages under which +we labour, I very unwillingly make up my mind to push on to our last +night's camp. We have done so, and now I have had a little time to +consider the matter over I do not think it prudent to remain here +to-night; I shall therefore continue on until I reach the open grassy +plain or gum creek. They are still following us up; I only wish that I +had four more men, for my party is so small that we can only fall back +and act on the defensive. If I were to stand and fight them (which I wish +I could) our horses must remain unprotected, and we, in all probability, +should be cut off from them. Our enemies seem to be aiming at that, and +to prevent our advance up the creek; by this time they have found out +their mistake, as we did not go a step out of our course for them. +Arrived at Hayward Creek at 11 o'clock at night. + +Wednesday, 27th June, Hayward Creek. This morning we see signal fires all +around us. It was my intention last night to have gone this morning to +Kekwick Ponds to water the horses, then to give them the day to rest, and +proceed to-morrow back again to the large creek, and go on to the distant +hills that I was steering for on the 25th instant, but, after considering +the matter over the whole night, I have most reluctantly come to the +determination to abandon the attempt to make the Gulf of Carpentaria. +Situated as I now am, it would be most imprudent. In the first place my +party is far too small to cope with such wily, determined natives as +those we have just encountered. If they had been Europeans they could not +better have arranged and carried out their plan of attack. They had +evidently observed us passing in the morning, had examined our tracks to +see which way we had gone, and knew we could get no water down the creek, +but must retrace our steps to obtain it above them; they therefore lay in +wait for our return. Their charge was in double column, open order, and +we had to take steady aim, to make an impression. With such as these for +enemies in our rear, and, most probably, far worse in advance, it would +be destruction to all my party for me to attempt to go on. All the +information of the interior that I have already obtained would be lost. +Moreover, we have only half rations for six months, four of which are +gone, and I have been economizing as much as I possibly could in case of +our having to be out a longer time, so that my men now complain of great +weakness, and are unable to perform what they have to do. Again, only two +showers of rain have fallen since March, and I am afraid of the waters +drying up to the south, and there is no appearance of rain at present. +The days are now become very hot again, and the feed for the horses as +dry as if it were the middle of summer. The poor animals are very much +reduced in condition, so much so that I am afraid of their being longer +than one night without water. Finally, my health is so bad, that I am +hardly able to sit in the saddle. After taking all those things into +consideration, I think it would be madness and folly to attempt more. If +my own life were the only sacrifice, I would willingly risk it to +accomplish my purpose; but it seems that I am destined to be +disappointed; man proposes, but the Almighty disposes, and his will must +be obeyed. Seeing the signal fires around, and dreading lest our black +friends at Kekwick Ponds might have been playing a double part with us, +in spite of their Masonic signs, I gave them a wide berth, and steered +for Bishop Creek. Arrived there in the afternoon, and found that the +creek had not been visited by natives since we left. These natives do not +deposit their dead bodies in the ground, but place them in the trees, +and, judging from the number of these corpses which we have passed +between this and the large creek, where they made their attack upon us, +they must be very numerous. These natives have quite a different cast of +features from those in the south; they have neither the broad flat nose +and large mouth, nor the projecting eyebrows, but have more of the Malay; +they are tall, muscular, well-made men, and I think they must have seen +or encountered white men before. + +Thursday, 28th June, Bishop Creek. Camped at the rocky water hole +north-east side of the McDouall range. + +Friday, 29th June, Anderson Creek. Crossed the McDouall ranges and camped +on a gum creek on the north-east side of the Murchison ranges, which I +have named Gilbert Creek, after Thomas Gilbert, Esquire, late Colonial +Storekeeper. + +Saturday, 30th June, Gilbert Creek. Crossed the Murchison ranges, and the +large gum creek coming from them, and running west-north-west, which I +have named Baker Creek, after the Honourable John Baker, M.L.C. I did not +examine it, but should think from its appearance that there is water in +it; besides, I can distinguish the smoke of a native encampment. +Proceeded to the creek where we camped before, but found all the water +gone, except a little moisture in the bottom of the holes. I was rather +surprised at this, for I thought it would have lasted three months at +least. Went to another creek, where there was a large hole of water in +conglomerate rock; this we found also to be very much reduced; when we +last saw it, its depth was four feet, and now it is only eighteen inches. +Camped. + +Sunday, 1st July, Murchison Ranges. My horses very tired, and three of +them are nearly done up. + +Monday, 2nd July, Murchison Ranges. Proceeded to the Bonney Creek to get +feed for the horses, there being very little besides spinifex under the +ranges. Smoke of native encampments on and about the creek; I must be +very careful. + +Tuesday, 3rd July, The Bonney Creek. We have not seen any more of the +natives yet. I shall rest the horses to-day, there being plenty of feed, +which they very much want. Being so very few of us, I am obliged to turn +them out with the saddles on; so that, if we are attacked again, one can +put the packs on, while I and the other defend him. The water in this +hole is very much reduced, but I think it will not fail altogether, in +consequence of the small fish being in it. From the diminution of the +water in this creek since I left it, a month ago, I am inclined to think +that I shall have a very hard push to get back; my horses being so weak +from the hardships they have undergone, that they are now unable to do as +much as they did before. I fear that I shall not get any water between +this and Forster's range, a distance of upwards of eighty miles, so I +shall rest them here for a week, if the natives will be quiet; if not, I +must run the risk of losing more of them. To-day, I had made up my mind +to follow out this creek, to see if the waters continue, and if it would +take me to the north of the spinifex and gum-tree plain which I had to +turn back from on my north-west course from Mount Denison, and if rain +falls to try again for the Victoria River. I am, however, disappointed, +for, on weighing the rations, I find I am terribly short, which I did not +expect, and which cuts off all hope of my attaining that point. My +troubles and vexations seem to come upon me all at once. Had I but a +stronger party, and six months' rations, I think I should be able to +accomplish something before my return. I have done my best, and can do no +more. My eyesight is now so bad that I cannot depend upon my +observations, which will be a great loss to me; and the scurvy has +returned with greater severity. Before I start on my return, if +everything goes right, I shall run down this creek a short distance. It +may, at some future time, turn out to be the road to the Victoria River, +or one of its tributaries. Wind south and south-west. + +Wednesday, 4th July, The Bonney Creek. The water in this hole has been +diminishing very rapidly since we were here; it is falling at the rate of +six inches per day, which is a poor look-out for us on our homeward +course. I have not a day to spare now, as the weather is becoming very +hot, and will dry it up much faster. I must push back as soon as my +horses are rested and able to undergo the eighty miles without water. I +must give up the examination of this creek, for every day now is of the +utmost importance, and I must not give the horses one mile more than I +can help. Oh! that rain would fall before I leave this. It would indeed +be an inestimable blessing. Wind from all points. At sundown a few clouds +have made their appearance. + +Thursday, 5th July, The Bonney Creek. During the night it became very +cloudy from the west, and this morning still continues. My hopes are +again raised. If it should rain, I shall try for the Victoria River +again, even though I should be without rations for my return; I could +kill one of the horses and dry his flesh, and that would take me back. +Still very cloudy, and every sign of rain. I am making preparations for +another trial. At sundown there are still heavy black clouds coming from +the west, which have raised our hopes of success to the highest point, +and I ardently trust they will be realized. No natives have come near us, +yet they are still about. + +Friday, 6th July, The Bonney Creek. A sad, sad disappointment; all our +most sanguine hopes are again gone, for, during the night, the clouds +broke up and have all vanished; it is very vexing. I shall rest the +horses till Monday, and then, ill and dispirited, commence my homeward +journey. I dare not venture into a new route, for, want of water, and the +low condition of my horses, compel me to keep my former track. Last night +about 10 o'clock, I observed the comet for the first time, above the west +horizon; it set at 7 o'clock 20 degrees north of west. At sundown it has +become overcast with heavy clouds, and my hopes are again raised; I trust +we may get it now. Midnight: still cloudy, and every appearance of rain. +Wind changeable. + +Saturday, 7th July, The Bonney Creek. Alas! all the clouds are again +gone; our hopes were only raised to be dashed down with greater +disappointment. The wind has returned to its old quarter, south-east. +Natives still about, but they do not come near us. I shall now prepare +for my return on Monday morning; it is very disheartening. + +Sunday, 8th July, The Bonney Creek. The weather has every appearance of +being dry for some time to come, not a cloud to be seen; the wind +south-east, and very cold night and morning. All hope of making the coast +is now gone. On weighing our rations to-day, I find that we are again +short since we halted here. The man Ben has been making it a regular +practice to steal them since he has been with me. I have caught him +several times doing so, and all the threats and warnings of the +consequences have had no effect upon him. They deter him for a day or +two, and then he is as bad as ever. I have been in the habit of reducing +our allowance to make up for the loss, which has been very hard upon +Kekwick and myself; he has helped himself to about double his allowance +during the journey. + +Monday, 9th July, The Bonney Creek. Started for the Davenport range, +where we camped before; the water is all dried up. Ascended the range, +and changed my bearing to Mount Morphett, 196 degrees, in the Crawford +range, in the hope of finding water there. At four miles struck the creek +that I have before crossed nearer to the range, found water, and camped +to give my horses every chance. I have named this creek Barker Creek, +after Mr. Chambers' brother-in-law. I do not think this water is +permanent, but, from the number of birds that are passing up the creek, I +think there must be permanent water higher up. This range seems to yield +a deal of water on both sides. Native graves about. + +Tuesday, 10th July, Barker Creek. Started at 6.30 on a bearing of 196 +degrees towards Mount Strzelecki. At six miles crossed a gum creek, +coming from the range, and running to the west, on my former track. I +crossed it where it lost itself on the plain. The country is well +grassed, with a little spinifex occasionally, from the range to this +point. At twelve miles it became scrubby and sandy with a little grass, +spinifex predominating, which continued to where we camped. Wind, +south-east. + +Wednesday, 11th July, Scrub North-north-east of Mount Strzelecki. One of +the horses having parted from the others, and gone a long distance off in +search of water, it was 9 o'clock before we could get a start. At seven +miles arrived at a lagoon north-east of Mount Strzelecki. Found a little +water and feed for the horses. Camped to give them the benefit of it. +Wind, south-south-east. Cold. + +Thursday, 12th July, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. Made an early +start, crossing the range, on a south course. Very rough and difficult. +Could see no water. To the south-east of Mount Morphett there is the +appearance of a creek, and on the south-west there are also the signs of +a watered country, which is more hilly. Proceeded on through the thick +dead mulga scrub, to the north side of Forster range, where we camped at +dark without water. The country passed over to-day is splendidly grassed, +especially as we approached the range. There is also a little spinifex, +but not much. Distance to-day, thirty-two miles. + +Friday, 13th July, North Side of Forster Range. Started early, proceeding +to the gum creek coming from the north side of Forster's range, where we +found a little water, numerous fresh tracks of natives, and a great +number of birds. I have named this the Barrow Creek, after J.H. Barrow, +Esquire, M.P. Crossed the range to the Stirling Creek, which we followed +down, and found an abundant supply of water. The upper part of it is now +dry, and it is difficult to say whether it is permanent or not; but, to +judge from the number of native tracks and encampments, and the many +birds, I should think it is. The wood-duck is also on some of the pools. +At dark we can hear the natives down the creek. + +Saturday, 14th July, Stirling Creek. I shall give the horses a rest +to-day and to-morrow, for I do not expect to get water before we reach +the reservoir in the Reynolds range. I am afraid it will be all gone in +the Hanson and at the Centre. + +Sunday, 15th July, Stirling Creek. Resting horses, etc., etc. + +Monday, 16th July, Stirling Creek. The natives were prowling about during +the night, and startled three horses, which separated from the others, +went off at full gallop, and were not recovered till noon, about four +miles off. Too late to start to-day, for which I am very sorry, as every +hour is now of the utmost value to us, in consequence of the evaporation +of the water. Not the slightest appearance of any rain yet. Wind, south. + +Tuesday, 17th July, Stirling Creek. Proceeded to the Hanson. Shortly +after we started, we were followed by the natives, shouting as they came +along, but keeping at a respectful distance. They followed us through the +scrub for about two hours, but when we came to the open ground at the +lagoons they went off. I intended to have halted and spoken to them +there, thinking it would not be safe to do so in the scrub. They were +tall, powerful-looking fellows, and had their arms with them. We then +went on to the Hanson, crossing numerous fresh native tracks. On nearing +the water, we saw five blacks, who took fright and went off at full +speed. There were many more in the distance; in fact, they seemed to be +very numerous about here. The country all round was covered with their +tracks. Found water still there, but had to clear the sand away a little +to give the horses a drink. Thinking that it would not be safe to camp in +the neighbourhood of so many natives, I went on to the Central Creek, and +in going through some scrub, we again disturbed some more, but could only +see children, one a little fellow about seven years old, who was cleaning +some grass seeds in a worley, with a child who could just walk. The +moment he saw us he jumped up, and, seizing his father's spear, took the +child by the hand and walked off out of our way. It was quite pleasing to +see the bold spirit of the little fellow. On nearing Central Mount Stuart +we saw two men, who made off into the scrub. Arrived at the creek after +dark, but the water is all gone. On examining the hole where the water +was, we discovered a small native well, with a very little water, too +little to be of any service to me. To-morrow morning I must push on +through the scrub to Anna's Reservoir. My horses are still very weak, and +I do not think they will be able to do it in a day. Wind variable. + +Wednesday, 18th July, Centre. Starting early, we crossed the Hanson, and +got through the scrub to the gum plains, where we camped at sundown, the +horses not being able to do the whole journey in one day. The creeks +empty themselves into the plains, but there is no water. Still, from the +number of birds that are about, I think there must be water not far away, +but I have no time to search for it. If I do not find water in the gum +creek (which is doubtful) the horses will have another long day's +journey. They are suffering much from the dryness of the feed, three of +them being infected with worms. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 19th July, Gum Plains. Made our way through the remainder of +the scrub, and arrived in the afternoon at the gum creek, where we found +a little water, and clearing away the sand, obtained enough for our +horses. There will be enough for them to-day and to-morrow morning. I +shall therefore stop here for the rest of the day. There are some heavy +clouds coming up from the west and south-west, which I hope will give us +rain. Wind still from the south-east. The natives have been upon our old +tracks through the whole of the scrub in great numbers, and there are +many traces of them about this creek, some of which are quite fresh. The +drying up of the water round about has compelled them to collect round +this and other creeks which are permanent. + +Friday, 20th July, Gum Creek North-east of Mount Freeling. Crossed the +Reynolds range to Anna's Reservoir, which is still full of water. I may +now say that this is permanent. The water we camped at is gone, but there +is still a little down the creek. We could not get enough for the horses +this morning in the creek we have left. Judging from the number of native +tracks that we have crossed this morning, there must be permanent water +on the north side of the range, which is composed of immense blocks of +granite, apparently on the top of mica slate, with occasional courses of +quartz and ironstone. To the north-east of where we camped last night, +about three miles distant, is the point of the range, on which there is a +very remarkable high peak, composed of ironstone, with a number of very +rough rounded ironstone hills. I have named this Mount Freeling. Here I +found indications of copper, the only place I have seen it in all this +journey. The natives do not seem to have frequented this reservoir much +of late, as there were no fresh tracks within two miles of it. In the +creek close by, there were some very old worleys. No rain; +clouds all gone. Wind, still south-east. + +Saturday, 21st July, Anna's Reservoir, Reynolds Range. I shall remain +here till Monday morning to rest the horses, for they need it much; they +all have sore backs. A small pimple made its appearance under the saddle, +and has gradually spread into a large sore, which we cannot heal up; it +makes them very weak. The clouds have again made their appearance from +the north-west, and the wind has also changed to that quarter. I hope we +shall now get some rain, so that I can make short journeys for my horses, +to enable them to gather strength. Two long journeys on successive days +without water would reduce them again to the same state of weakness as +they were in at the Bonney Creek. For the last fourteen days we have been +getting a quantity of the native cucumber and other vegetables, which +have done me a great deal of good; the pains in my limbs and back are +much relieved, and I trust will soon go away altogether if these +vegetables hold out. We boil and eat the cucumbers with a little sugar, +and in this way they are very good, and resemble the gooseberry; we have +obtained from one plant upwards of two gallons of them, averaging from +one to two inches in length, and an inch in breadth. + +Sunday, 22nd July, Anna's Reservoir. On examining the creek near the +reservoir, we have found some more large and deep water holes. I have +named this Wicksteed Creek. The clouds are again heavy, and have every +appearance of rain; they and the wind both come from the north-west. + +Monday, 23rd July, Anna's Reservoir. No rain has fallen; again all the +clouds are gone. Started early for the spring in the North gorge, +McDonnell range, which we noticed on April 14th. Camped at dark in the +thick scrub and spinifex. No feed for the horses, so we had to tie them +up during the night. Wind, south-east again. + +Tuesday, 24th July, Dense Scrub and Spinifex. Started through the +remainder of the scrub to the gorge, where we arrived at 7 o'clock, after +twelve hours' journey. Camped outside, and drove the horses up to the +spring. There is still the same supply of water; it is an excellent +spring, and might be of great importance to future exploration. I have +named it Hamilton Spring. Wind, variable. + +Wednesday, 25th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell range. Resting the +horses. Yesterday afternoon we passed a great number of fresh tracks of +natives apparently going to Hamilton Peak, which leads me to think there +must be permanent water there. The peak is very high--quite as high as +Mount Arden, but there is another part of the spur higher than it, to +which I have given the name of Mount Hugh; further to the west-north-west +is a mount, still higher, which I have named Mount Hay. Wind, north-east. +It has been very hot to-day. + +Thursday, 26th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell Range. Started across the +ranges to Brinkley Bluff, and camped on the east side. There is still +plenty of water in the Hugh, although greatly reduced. The natives have +been following our former tracks in great numbers; some of their +foot-prints are very large. There is a great quantity of marble in this +creek. + +Friday, 27th July, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Started down the +Hugh, and camped on the south side of Brinkley Bluff, finding plenty of +water all the way, in holes of various sizes, with reeds and rushes +growing round them, with plenty of feed on the banks. Wind, variable. + +Saturday, 28th July, The Hugh, South Side of Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell +Range. Proceeded towards the Waterhouse range, and stopped at my former +camp of the 11th April. The spring still gives out an abundance of water; +we have also found another good spring on the south side of the creek, +which is here very broad, nearly two hundred yards wide, with a good +feeding country all round, and a small strip of salt-bush on the banks. +Splendid gum-trees in the creek. Wind, east; sun, hot. + +Sunday, 29th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges. +Wind variable; some clouds coming from the south-west. + +Monday, 30th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges. +Proceeded towards the range; at four miles crossed the creek, and half a +mile further entered the ranges. We made our former camp of April 9th on +the creek, but no water, so followed it down to the westward, and after +clearing a hole, found sufficient for our wants in the sand. Camped. Very +unwell. Wind, south-east. Not a drop of rain has fallen since we were +here before. + +Tuesday, 31st July, Between the Waterhouse and James Ranges. Started on a +course of 220 degrees, following down the creek through James range, +instead of crossing it. I am afraid there will be no water at our camp on +the south side. I have a chance of getting some in the range. At two +miles met with a good water hole, under a sandstone hill. At seven miles +the creek enters the range; the bed is broad, sandy, and gravelled. At +twelve miles we found some water, and camped, as I am too unwell to +continue in the saddle any longer. Cleared a hole, and obtained water +sufficient for our purpose. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 1st August, In James Range, on the Hugh. Followed the creek +through the remainder of the range, and found water in four different +places. I have not the least doubt that there is plenty, but the creek is +so broad, and divided into so many courses, that it would require four +men at least to examine it well. On arriving at our camp of the 7th +April, we found all the water gone. Scratched in the sand, and found a +little moisture, but no water; after a fruitless search of an hour, I was +going back to the last water that I had seen, six miles distant, when two +emus came into the creek, and made for a large gum-tree in the middle. On +going to it, I found a fine hole of water round its roots. Camped. Wind +the same. + +Thursday, 2nd August, The Hugh, South Side of James Range. Went down the +south side of the creek, through good grassy country. At fourteen miles +in a side creek we found a native well about four feet deep. We camped +here, as there is little prospect of finding any more water in the Hugh, +which is become broad and sandy. As to surface water, my men have neither +the strength nor the appliances for digging. There is plenty of water +under this sand, but having only a small tin dish, the labour is too +great. My men have now lost all their former energy and activity, and +move about as if they were a hundred years old; it is sad to see them; +our horses, too, suffer very much from their sore backs. On the south +side of the creek are some isolated hills, chiefly composed of limestone, +ironstone, quartz, and granite. This morning there was ice on the water +left in the tin dish, and also in the canteens, an eighth of an inch +thick. It was very cold. + +Friday, 3rd August, James Range. I find the water in the well is nearly +all gone this morning. It would take us nine hours to water the horses +here, so slowly does it come in; I must therefore go back to our last +camp. I shall follow the creek round, for there might be a chance of +getting some nearer. Saddled, and proceeded up the creek, and at four +miles found a little under the limestone rocks coming from a small side +creek; gave the horses a drink turning back, and made for the Finke on a +course of 160 degrees. Crossing a few stony hills and small plains, at +ten miles, we ascended a broken table range, which I have named Warwick +Range; it is composed of hard grey limestone and ironstone. We then +proceeded through a well-grassed country, with mulga bushes, and at +twenty miles camped under a redstone hill, not being able to get any +further. No water. + +Saturday, 4th August, Small Hill between the Hugh and the Finke. The +horses strayed a long way in the night, so that I did not get them till +after 11 o'clock this morning, and could not start until noon. Passed +over a country of much the same description as yesterday, crossing three +stony hills running nearly east and west, and at nine miles camped, +without water, in a fine grassy country, which, as the grass is green, +will be quite a treat for the horses. About six miles north of Chambers +Pillar. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 5th August, North of Chambers Pillar. At sunrise heavy clouds +came up from the south-east, bringing with them a very thick fog, through +which I had great difficulty in steering my course; it cleared off about +10 o'clock. I expected rain, but none has fallen; it is now quite clear +again. Arrived at the Finke at 12 o'clock, and was very much surprised to +find so little water. I had no idea it would have gone away so soon. The +bed is very broad and sandy, which is the cause of the rapid +disappearance of the large quantity that I saw when I crossed before. +This is a great disappointment, as it was my intention to run it down, in +the hope that it would take me into South Australia. I shall go one day's +journey down, and see what it is; if I can find no more water I must +return to this, to rest my horses, and push for the Stevenson. I cannot +remain here, for this water will only last a short time. My provisions +will barely carry me down, and there is not the least appearance of rain. +I am afraid my retreat is cut off. Wind, south-east. Clouds. + +Monday, 6th August, The Finke. Thick fog again this morning. From the +heavy clouds that have passed yesterday to the south of us, I think a +shower of rain may have fallen there; I ought not to allow the chance of +it to escape, as it is likely to be my only one until the equinox, and I +have not provisions sufficient to remain until that time, so I must push +the horses as far as they will go, and then we must walk the rest, which +is a very black prospect, considering the weak state we all are in. +Proceeded to the south-east, having camped on my former course at two +clay-pans, where I think there is a chance of water, if a shower has +fallen there. Started on our former course and arrived at the clay-pans +without seeing a drop of water; neither is there any in them. Camped; the +horses being very tired, from coming through so many sand hills. + +Tuesday, 7th August, Clay-pans in Sand Hills. A light dew fell last night +and this morning, which I am very glad of; it will be a good thing for +the horses. Kekwick was unwell last night, but I cannot stop on his +account. He must endure it the best way he can. If I find water at where +I suppose the Finke joins the gum creek that runs a little north of Mount +Humphries, I will remain there a day to give him rest. He is completely +done up. I hope he will not get worse. I must push back as quickly as +possible, and get him into the settled districts. At noon we made the +Finke. Still the same white, sandy bed; but here it is about a quarter of +a mile broad, and the east bank is composed of white sandstone, with a +course of light slate on the top of it, then courses of limestone and +other rocks, and, on the top of all, red sand hills. The gum-trees are +not so large as they are further north. On first striking the creek we +could find no water, but, by following it down for a short distance, we +discovered a little, which will do for us. It is more than I expected, +and I feel most thankful for it. Kekwick still very ill. Poor fellow, he +is suffering very much. I dare not show him much pity, or I should have +the other giving in altogether. I hope and trust he will soon get better +again, and that to-morrow's rest may do him good. He has been a most +valuable man to me. I place entire confidence in him. A better one I +could not have got. I wish the other had been like him, and then neither +he nor I should have suffered so much from hunger. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 8th August, The Finke. Resting Kekwick and shoeing horses. +This water was going away very rapidly, so I rode down the creek for ten +miles to see if there were any more, that I may risk following it down. +After joining the West Creek it spreads itself over a broad valley, +bounded on the north by sand hills and on the south by stony hills. +Course, eastward. It is divided into numerous courses; very sandy, and +immense quantities of drift wood about it. Some very large gum-trees +piled high on the banks, and a great number of birds of every +description; but I could find no water. It is so broad, with so many +courses, that it would require half a dozen men to examine it well. If we +were to stay searching for water here, and be unsuccessful, and the +creeks on ahead were to be dried up, we should lose our horses and have +to walk, which Kekwick could not do. I do not consider it would be right +thus to risk his life. I shall therefore make for the Stevenson, where I +am almost certain to find water. Wind, east. + +Thursday, 9th August, The Finke. Started early on our former tracks, +passing Mount Humphrey and Mount Beddome. Camped at our old place. I +should think from the appearance of the country that the Finke takes a +south-east course from where I left it yesterday. The hills run that way. +Wind, south-south-east. + +Friday, 10th August, South of Mount Beddome. Proceeded on our former +course to the Stevenson, which we made a little before dark, and found +water, but I am quite surprised to see so little of it left. The fine +large holes are nearly dry. Wind, east. + +Saturday, 11th August, The Stevenson. The horses having lost some shoes, +I am forced to remain here to-day to put others on. There is more water a +little further down the creek, at which I camped. No rain seems to have +fallen since I was here before. The sun has been very hot to-day. Wind, +east-south-east. + +Sunday, 12th August, The Stevenson. I was too unwell to move yesterday, +but, feeling a little better this morning, I rode down the creek. For +three miles it takes a south-east course, then east-south-east through +table land, with rocky and precipitous hills on each side. I then went on +a south-east course for nine miles, through a splendidly-grassed country, +with numerous small creeks running into the Stevenson. During my ride I +found plenty of water, and splendid grass, up to the saddle-flaps, and +quite green. Ducks and numerous other birds abound here; the water is +quite alive with them. I regret that I have not provisions enough to +enable me to follow this creek round its different bends. It is a +splendid feeding country for cattle, and much resembles Chambers Creek. +Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 13th August, The Stevenson. Started on a course of 135 degrees to +see if the Stevenson comes from the south; continued on the table land, +from where I left it yesterday for sixteen miles from last night's camp, +when we suddenly dropped into the bed of a large broad sandy gum-creek, +coming from the west, which I find to be the Ross. There are many rushes +about it; it runs in three or four courses, in all of which water can be +obtained by scratching in the sand. There are plenty of birds. It is +evidently raining to the east of this. Camped. My course takes me across +the middle of a range, which I shall endeavour to cross to-morrow. There +are two small springs, but they are brackish. Wind, south. + +Tuesday, 14th August, The Ross. Started on the same course, 135 degrees, +and again ascended the stony table land. Crossing thence, we met two +small myall-creeks running north-east with birds upon them. At seven +miles crossed another, and found a fine large deep water hole with ducks +on it. We again ascended the table land, which continued to the range, +and at sixteen miles gained the top, which is table land about a mile +broad; the view is extensive to the east-north-east and north. We +descended on a course of 175 degrees to search for water in the creek +below. We crossed a number of myall-creeks, coming from the range, and +running south-east; in many the water has just dried up. At six miles on +the same course we found water and camped, the horses being tired by +their rough journey. This water hole is not permanent although when full +it is deep and large, and will last a considerable time. The Stevenson +and Ross seem to take a north-east course. On a further examination of +this creek I found a large hole of water about two hundred yards long and +thirty broad, with birds upon it, and plants that grow round permanent +water. I also found shells. This creek I have named Anderson Creek, after +James Anderson, Esquire, of Port Lincoln, and the range Bagot Range, +after the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands. + +Wednesday, 15th August, Anderson Creek. Started towards the south-east +point of Bagot range, which I find to be five miles distant. The country +between is undulating and stony, with plenty of grass. To the east, about +thirty miles, is a high isolated hill, bearing 100 degrees. At six miles +and a half crossed a myall and gum creek, in which, about a mile to the +east, under a red bank, is a large water hole, seemingly permanent. At +ten miles crossed the Frew, whose bed is sandy, and has many courses, the +banks being covered with rushes. The rest of the day's journey was +through mallee scrub and sand hills, in which we camped without water; +the feed, however, is abundant, yet not so thick as when I crossed +before.* (* See ante, March 28, 29, and 30.) Wind, south. + +Thursday, 16th August, Mulga Scrub and Sand Hills. Started at 7 o'clock +on a course of 170 degrees, and in four hours made the Neale, and camped, +as there was still plenty of water. + +Friday, 17th August, The Neale. Proceeded on a south-east course, and +camped on a side branch of the Neale, with plenty of water in large +holes. Wind, east. + +Saturday, 18th August, Side Branch of the Neale. Proceeded towards the +gap in Hanson range, and camped near one of the large water holes. It is +very cloudy. + +Sunday, 19th August, Gap in the Hanson Range. Still cloudy, and looks +like rain, so we must push on to-day, in case the Peake River should come +down and stop us, which would not suit the state of my provisions, as we +have lost a quantity of flour by the scrub scoring the bags, and we have +not enough to take us to Chambers Creek. At eight miles camped +west-north-west of Freeling Springs, having given the horses a drink in +crossing the Neale. + +Monday, 20th August, Sand Hills West-north-west of Freeling Springs. It +still threatens for rain. Proceeded to Kekwick Springs to see if the +horse we had left in the Peake had got out. We found his bones; he does +not seem to have made a struggle since we left him, as he is in the same +position. From the number of tracks, the natives must have visited him. +Proceeded to Freeling Springs and camped. There were a number of ducks +and two swans on the large water hole. We shot one of the latter, which +was a great treat to our half-starved party. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 21st August, Freeling Springs. Still cloudy, and we had a few +drops of rain during the night; also distant thunder and lightning. +Resting horses. Wind, north-east. + +Wednesday, 22nd August, Freeling Springs. Proceeded through Denison +range, and camped at the Milne Springs. Wind, north-east. Still cloudy, +but no rain. + +Thursday, 23rd August, Milne Springs. Went on and camped at Louden Spa. +Wind variable. + +Friday, 24th August, Louden Spa. Camped at the William Springs. Wind, +north-west. + +Saturday, 25th August, William Springs. Proceeded to the Strangway and +Beresford Springs, and camped at Paisley Ponds. Wind, north-east. + +Sunday, 26th August, Paisley Ponds. During the night thunder and +lightning from the north-west, with a few drops of rain. Cloudy this +morning; had a few showers on our journey to Hamilton Springs. Found Mr. +Brodie camped there three miles south-east of Mount Hamilton. He received +and treated us with the greatest kindness. + +Mr. Stuart and his party remained at Hamilton Springs until 1st +September, when they proceeded to Chambers Creek, where, having reached +the settled districts, his journal ends. + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO +SEPTEMBER, 1861. + +When Mr. Stuart reached Adelaide, in October, 1860, on his return from +his last expedition, bringing with him the intelligence that he had +penetrated to the northward almost as far as the eighteenth degree of +south latitude, and had only been forced to retreat by the hostility of +the natives, the South Australian Parliament voted a sum of 2500 pounds +for a larger, better-armed, and more perfectly organized party, of which +he was to be the leader. The ill-fated Victorian expedition, under Burke +and Wills, had already started from Melbourne, on the previous 20th of +August, amid all the excitement of a popular ovation, but a messenger was +instantly despatched by the Victorian Government to overtake them, in +order to give them what information the South Australian Government +allowed to be known. On the 29th of November Mr. Stuart was ready to +start once more, and left Moolooloo with seven men and thirty horses, +arriving at Mr. Glen's station on the 1st of December, and at Goolong +Springs on the 4th. He was delayed at the latter place for several days, +in consequence of the horses, and more especially the town horses, being +unmanageable and unequal to their work. The party reached Welcome Springs +on the 8th, and Finniss Springs on the 11th. The water at Finniss Springs +seemed to have an injurious influence on the town horses, but those that +had been with Mr. Stuart on his previous journeys were not so much +affected. The following evening they arrived at Chambers Creek, where +they remained until the end of the month. + +During their stay at Chambers Creek they were occupied in killing and +drying bullocks, mending saddles, weighing rations, shoeing horses, and +generally preparing to start. Several of the horses, which had been +knocked up and left behind on the way, had to be brought up; others +became quite blind, one was lost, and one died. On the 31st of December +four fresh horses arrived, which had been kindly sent up by Mr. Finke the +moment he heard of the difficulty in which Mr. Stuart was placed. The +party was also further increased, both by horses and men, so that when it +left Chambers Creek, on the 1st of January, 1861, it numbered twelve men +and forty-nine horses. The following is the list of those who started:-- + +John McDouall Stuart, Leader of the Expedition. +William Kekwick, Second in Command. +F. Thring, Third Officer. +-- Ewart, Storekeeper. +-- Sullivan, Shoeing Smith. +-- Thompson, Saddler. +-- Lawrence. +-- Masters. +J. Woodforde. +-- Wall. +E.E. Bayliffe. +J. Thomas. + +Shortly after starting, the horses that Mr. Finke sent up went off at a +gallop, taking with them one of the others; but, at about a mile, they +were headed by Ewart, Wall, and Lawrence, and brought back covered with +sweat. Not content with this gallop, in a short time afterwards they +bolted again. This last one seemed to content them, for they went very +quietly for the rest of the day; they had, however, lost a pick, which +could not be found. The party arrived at Mr. Ferguson's station, at +Hamilton Springs, that evening. Louden Spa was reached on the 8th of +January. The next day Mr. Stuart writes: + +"Wednesday, 9th January, Louden Spa. I am obliged to leave two horses. I +thought that I should have been able to have got them down as far as Mr. +Levi's station. There are three others that I must leave behind; they are +now nearly useless to me, and cause more delay than I can afford. I shall +reduce my party to ten individuals, in order to lighten the horses that I +take with me. I shall take thirty weeks' provisions; the rest I shall +leave there (Mr. Levi's station). The two men who are to return are to +have a month's provisions to carry them down. They will be here two +weeks, and if the horses have not recovered by that time, they will +remain another week, when they will have one week's provisions to take +them to Chambers Creek, where they will get enough to carry them to the +mine." + +Bayliffe and Thomas were the two men selected to return, and it may not +be without interest to follow them back to the settled districts. They +did not arrive at Melrose, Mount Remarkable, until the latter end of +March. Thomas was suffering severely from rheumatism, and had to be +conveyed in a cart for the last six miles of his journey from a place +where he and his companion had camped for the purpose of recruiting +themselves. They had been obliged to leave two of the horses at Mr. +Mather's station, and two more had died on the road. The men arrived with +one horse only, which they were using as a pack-horse. + +But to return to the rest of the party, who reached Mr. Levi's station +the same evening (January 9th) on which they parted from the two men. On +Friday, January 11th, Mr. Stuart writes: + +"I have now all put in order, and consider myself fairly started, with +thirty weeks' provisions. Day extremely hot. An eclipse of the sun took +place at noon. Although our poor little dog Toby is carried on one of the +pack-horses, he is unable to bear this great heat. I fear he will not +survive the day. Arrived at Milne Springs about 5 p.m. At sundown poor +little Toby died, regretted by us all, for he had already become a great +favourite." + +On January 21st Mr. Stuart reached the Neale Creek, a little to the east +of where he struck it before, but found that the large bodies of water +had nearly all gone; by digging in the sand of the main channel, however, +they obtained sufficient for their immediate wants. Exploring parties +were despatched up and down the creek, and returned, reporting abundance +of water eight miles above and five miles below where they were. They +also brought back with them some fish, resembling the bream, which were +very palatable when cooked. An attack of dysentery prevented Mr. Stuart +from proceeding for a few days, and, during his stay, the natives, while +studiously keeping themselves out of sight, set fire to the surrounding +grass. On the 27th the expedition arrived at the Hamilton, after a heavy +journey of thirty-five miles. "I observed," says Mr. Stuart, "a peculiar +feature in one of the families of the mulga bushes; the branches seemed +to be covered with hoar frost, but on closer examination it turned out to +be a substance resembling honey in taste and thickness. It was +transparent, and presented a very pretty appearance when the sun shone +upon it, making the branches look as though they were hung with small +diamonds." + +The course now taken was through Bagot range to the Stevenson, where they +arrived on February 1st. The next day they proceeded northward, and at +eight miles came upon a large water hole, which was named Lindsay Creek, +after J. Lindsay, Esquire, M.L.A. This water hole was one hundred and +fifty yards long, thirty wide, and from eight to fifteen feet deep in the +deepest parts. The native cucumber was growing upon its banks, and the +feed was abundant. Here they met with immense numbers of brown pigeons, +of the same description as those found by Captain Sturt in 1845. There +were thousands of them; in fact, they flew by in such dense masses that, +on two occasions, Woodforde killed thirteen with a single shot. The +travellers pronounced them first-rate eating. Many natives, tall, +powerful fellows, were seen, but they did not speak with them. After +trying for water in the neighbourhood of Mount Daniel, they were +compelled to return to Lindsay Creek, which they did not quit until +February 9th, when they camped on another creek, which was named the +Coglin, after P.B. Coglin, Esquire, M.L.A. From this place Mr. Stuart +started, accompanied by Thring and Woodforde, to examine the condition of +the Finke, and found its bed broad, and filled with white drift sand, but +without water. A hole ten feet deep was sunk in the sand, but just as the +increasing moisture gave them hope of finding water, the sides gave way, +and Thring had a narrow escape of being buried alive. After sinking +several other holes, but without success, they turned to another creek, +coming more from the westward, and in a short time discovered six native +wells near to what was evidently a large camping-place of the natives. +The ground for one hundred yards round was covered with worleys, and at +one spot they seemed to have had a grand corroberrie, the earth being +trodden quite hard, as if a large number had been dancing upon it in a +circle. They had left one of their spears behind, a formidable weapon +about ten feet long, with a flat round point, the other end being made +for throwing with the womera. On the 13th Mr. Stuart and his two +companions returned to the camp on the Coglin, after discovering a place +about four miles from the six native wells, where sufficient water could +be obtained by digging. On the 14th three of the men were sent in advance +to dig a hole at this place, and the following day the whole party moved +forward to join them. Here the natives annoyed them much by setting fire +to the grass in every direction. + +Marchant Springs (on the Finke) were reached on February 22nd, and here +Mr. Stuart noticed a remarkable specimen of native carving. He says: "The +natives had made a drawing on the bark of two trees--two figures in the +shape of hearts, intended, I suppose, to represent shields. There was a +bar down the centre, on either side of which were marks like broad +arrows. On the outside were also a number of arrows, and other small +marks. I had a copy of them taken. This was the first attempt at +representation by the natives of Australia which I had ever seen." + +Following the course of the Finke, they arrived on the 25th at some +springs which were rendered memorable by Mr. Stuart's favourite mare +Polly. She became very ill, and on the morning of the 26th slipped her +foal. Polly had been with her master on all his previous journeys, and +was much too valuable and faithful a creature to be left behind; besides, +she was second to none in enduring hardship and fatigue. They therefore +waited another night to give her time to recover, and Mr. Stuart named +the springs Polly Springs in her honour. On the 27th they again moved +northwards, still following the course of the Finke, and, after a short +journey of ten miles, camped at what were afterwards called Bennett +Springs. It is worthy of remark that while the horses were in this water +drinking, one of them kicked out a fish about eight inches long and three +broad--an excellent sign of the permanency of the water. Here several of +the horses were taken violently ill, and the next morning one of them +could not be found. Mr. Stuart writes: + +"Thursday, 28th February, The Finke, Bennett Springs. Found all the +horses but one named Bennett. Sent two of the party out in search of him; +at 9 a.m. they returned, having been all round, but could see nothing of +him. I then sent out four, to go round the tracks and see if he had +strayed into the sand hills. At noon they returned unsuccessful. Sent +five men to search, but at 2 p.m. they likewise returned without having +discovered him. I then went out myself, and, in half-an-hour, found the +poor animal lying dead in a hole, very much swollen. Blood seemed to have +come from his mouth and nostrils. He must have died during the night. I +am afraid that there is some description of poisonous plant in the sand +hills, and that the horses have eaten some of it. As he lay he appeared +to have been coming from the sand hills, and making for the water. He +seemed to have fallen down three times before he died. I never saw horses +taken in the same way before--in a moment they fell down and became quite +paralysed. The cream-coloured horse, that was taken so ill last night, +must also have eaten the poison. We were upwards of two hours before we +could get him right. As soon as he got on his legs, his limbs shook so +that he immediately fell down. This he did for more than a dozen times. +As we were very much in want of hobble-straps, I sent Mr. Kekwick, with +three others, to take Bennett's skin and shoes off. We found no +indication of poison on opening him. This is a very great loss to me, for +he was one of my best packhorses--one that had been with me before, and +that I could depend upon for a hard push." + +On the 2nd March, while still following the course of the Finke, they +passed two or three holes containing fish about eight inches long, and +enclosed by small brush fences, apparently for the purpose of catching +fish. They also saw a lot of shields, spears, waddies, etc., which the +natives had deposited under a bush. As to the aborigines themselves, +although it was evident there were plenty of them about, they never +allowed themselves to be seen. There was an abundance of timber which Mr. +Stuart says would be well suited for electric-telegraph poles. + +Mr. Stuart's journal continues as follows: + +Tuesday, 5th March, The Finke. Started at 8.5 a.m., bearing 345 degrees, +for the Hugh, with Thring and Lawrence. On arriving there found the water +nearly all gone, only a little in a well dug by the natives; cleared it +out, but it took us until 12 p.m. to water the four horses. At three +miles further, we passed round a high conspicuous table hill, having a +slanting and shelving front to the south; this I have named Mount Santo, +after Philip Santo, Esquire, M.P. The country passed over to-day has been +sand hills, with spinifex, grassy plains, with mulga and other shrubs, +and occasionally low table-topped hills, composed of sand, lime, and +ironstone, also the hard whitish flinty rock; kangaroo plentiful, but +very wild. Wind south-east. The day has been very hot; horses very tired. + +Wednesday, 6th March, The Hugh. Started at 8.45 a.m. on a bearing of 209 +degrees. At nine miles, finding the water gone that I had seen on my last +return, I dug down to the clay, and obtained a little, but not enough for +us. Followed the creek up into the gorge, and found it very dry. Our +former tracks are still visible in the bed of the creek. No rain seems to +have fallen here since last March. I had almost given up all hopes of +finding any water, when, at seven miles, we met with a few rushes, which +revived our sinking hopes; and, at eight miles, our eyes and ears were +delighted with the sight and sound of numerous diamond birds, a sure sign +of the proximity of water. At the mouth of a side creek coming from the +James range, on the eastern side of the Hugh, found an excellent water +hole, apparently both deep and permanent. We saw a native and his lubra +at the upper end at a brush fence in the water; they appeared to be +fishing, and did not see us until I called to them. The female was the +first who left the water; she ran to the bank, took up her child, and +made for a tree, up which she climbed, pushing her young one up before +her. She was a tall, well-made woman. The man (an old fellow), tall, +stout, and robust, although startled at our appearance, took it leisurely +in getting out of the water, ascended the bank, and had a look at us; he +then addressed us in his own language, and seemed to work himself up into +a great passion, stopping every now and then and spitting fiercely at us +like an old tiger. He also ascended the tree, and then gave us a second +edition of it. We leisurely watered our horses, and he was very much +surprised to see Thring dismount and lead the pack-horse down to the +water, so much so that he never said another word, but remained staring +at us until we departed, when he commenced again. This water being +sufficient for my purpose, I will go no further up the creek, but return +to the last night's camp. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 7th March, The Hugh. As my horses are very tired, and the +distance between my main camp on the Finke and the water we discovered +yesterday being upwards of fifty miles, I will remain here to-day, dig +down to the clay, and try if I can obtain enough water for all the party; +for, owing to the extreme heat, and the dryness of the feed, many of our +weak horses are unable to go a night without water. By 8 p.m. we dug a +trench ten feet long, two feet and a half deep, and two feet and a half +broad; it is about twelve feet below the level of the creek. We have had +a very hard day's work. Wind, south-east. Day very hot. + +Friday, 8th March, The Hugh. This morning very cold; wind, still +south-east. The trench is quite full; our four horses made very little +impression on it. I shall send up and enlarge the trench, so that we may +be enabled to water the whole lot. At 6.40 a.m. started back for the +camp. At 1.45 p.m. halted to give the horses a little rest. At 2.30 p.m. +changed to 184 degrees, and at four miles reached the table hills, but +there was no creek, only a number of clay-pans, all quite dry, with +stunted gum-trees growing round them. Changed my bearing to Mount Santo, +passing a number of clay-pans of the same description; from thence +proceeded to the camp; arrived there at sundown, and found all right. +Plenty of water; the horses make little impression on it. Wind, +south-east. + +Saturday, 9th March, The Finke. I shall give Thring a rest to-day, and +will send him with two others, and a part of the horses, to-morrow to the +Hugh, to make a place large enough to water all. From about 2 a.m. until +after sunrise the morning has been very cold. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 10th March, The Finke. At 7 a.m. despatched Thring, Thompson, and +Sullivan, with eleven pack and three riding-horses, to the Hugh to dig a +tank. Wind, still south-east; clouds east. + +Monday, 11th March, The Finke. Clouds all gone; wind still south-east. I +will remain here to-day with the rest of the party, to give the others +time to have all ready for us when we arrive. One of the horses missing; +found him in the afternoon. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 12th March, The Finke. Started at 8.30 a.m. for the Hugh, course +345 degrees, following our former tracks. The day has been exceedingly +hot; wind from east and south-east, with heavy clouds in the same +direction. About 3 p.m. missed the party that was behind; they were last +seen about one mile and a half back. Thinking that the packs had gone +wrong, and that they were remaining behind to repair them, I waited an +hour, but finding they did not come up, I sent Ewart back to the place +where they were last seen to find out what was wrong; in an hour he +returned, and informed me that their tracks were going away to the +eastward. As the James range was in sight, and two of the party had been +there before, I concluded that they must have lost my tracks and were +pushing on for the water. This loss of two hours would make it late +before we arrived there, so we hurried on; but within four miles it +became so dark, from the sky being overcast with heavy clouds, and the +mulga bushes being so thick, that we were in great danger of losing some +of our pack-horses, for we could not see them more than ten yards off. I +therefore camped until daylight, having to tie the horses during the +night. Wind variable. + +Wednesday, 13th March, Between the Finke and the Hugh. Started at +daybreak; and in a little more than an hour arrived at the Hugh; found +that Thring had gone up the creek to the other water, not finding enough +here for the horses he had with him. We could only get sufficient for ten +of ours. As the fire was still alight, I was led to believe that the +other party had arrived here last night, having had two hours more +sunlight than we, and that they, seeing Thring's note to me, which he had +fastened on a tree, and also the small quantity of water, had watered +their horses last night, and gone on this morning, leaving the water that +had accumulated during the night for us and our horses; we cleared out +the hole in order to obtain sufficient for our other five. At about 10 +a.m. had breakfast; before we finished, the other party came in sight; +they had lost the tracks, and could not find them again. They made the +creek about one mile to the eastward. Unsaddled and gave their horses a +rest, and as much water as we could get for the weak ones; those of mine +which have had none will have to go without. By 1 p.m. obtained a drink +for seven of them. Pushed on to the other water, fifteen miles up the +creek; arrived there a little before sundown. The day, although cloudy, +has been very hot. Found Thring and his party all right. They had seen no +more of our spitting friend. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from east +and south-east, but still no rain. + +Thursday, 14th March, The Hugh, James Range. As the done-up horses will +not be able to travel to-day, I have sent Thring and Wall up the creek to +look for other water. Sky still overcast. No rain. Thring and Wall +returned in the afternoon, having found water a little below the surface, +about nine miles up; a very light shower has fallen. Wind all round the +compass. + +Friday, 15th March, The Hugh, James Range. A few drops of rain have +fallen during the night, but this morning it seems to be breaking up +again, which is a great disappointment. Started at 8 a.m., course 10 +degrees west of north; passed through the gorge in James range, found all +the water gone that I had seen on my journey down; followed up the creek +to the native wells that Thring found yesterday. This water is situated +about one mile and a half from where the creek enters the gorge in James +range, and under a concrete bank on the north side. The natives seem to +have quitted this water on hearing us coming, for they have left behind +them a large, long, and unfinished spear, two smaller ones, and some +waddies, one of which was quite wet, as if the owner had been in the act +of clearing out one of the wells when he heard or saw us coming: he also +left a shield cut out of solid wood, which I think was, from its +lightness, cork-wood. I also observed on one of the gum-trees, marks +similar to those which I saw on the Finke, broad arrows and a wavy line +round the tree. Still cloudy, but much broken. No rain. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 16th March, The Hugh, James Range. Rain all gone. Proceeded up +the creek, course 30 degrees, to examine the east bend before it enters +the Waterhouse range; in about six miles arrived and followed it upwards, +pushing on through the gorge to the large water I had previously seen on +the north side of the range; found it gone, but water in some native +wells in its bed. Proceeded on to the second bend of the creek from +Waterhouse range, to a water which I consider to be a spring (it is under +conglomerate rock), and am glad to see that there is still a large hole +of beautiful water, with bulrushes growing round about it. Camped. This +water I have named Owen Springs, after William Owen, Esquire, M.P. Wind +variable, from south-east to north-east. Cloudy. + +Sunday, 17th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. During the night we had a few +light showers, which will be of great advantage to us, causing the green +feed to spring up. The morning still cloudy; wind from the east, with a +few drops of rain. Wind still variable--all round the compass. + +Monday, 18th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Very heavy clouds this +morning; and it seemed as if it was setting in for a wet day, but it +cleared off, and only a little rain fell. Wind still all round the +compass. + +Tuesday, 19th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Saddled and started for +Brinkley Bluff, bearing 349 degrees. After entering the McDonnell range +the water is permanent. It has been here for twelve months; no rain has +fallen during that time, for my former tracks, both up and down, are as +distinct as if they had been made a month ago. At 3.30 p.m. camped at the +waterhole about a mile north-west of Brinkley Bluff; it is situated under +a rocky cliff. There are some seams of beautiful grey granite crossing +the creek, and abundance of marble of all colours, also a little iron and +limestone. We found some specimens of the palm tree, but there is neither +seed nor blossom at this season of the year. Lawrence got one of the +leaves, ate the lower end of it, and found it sweet--resembling +sugar-cane; he ate a few inches of it, and in about two hours became very +sick, and vomited a good deal during the evening. Wind variable; but +mostly south-east, with heavy thunder clouds. + +Wednesday, 20th March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 p.m. we +were delighted with the sight and feeling of heavy rain. At about 4 the +creek came down, and by sunrise it was running at the rate of five miles +an hour--a new and delightful sight to behold. At about 9 the clouds were +breaking and the rain lighter. We were all truly thankful for this great +boon. It is too wet to move to-day; the horses are bogging up to their +knees. After sundown we had a heavy thunder storm, accompanied by vivid +lightning, and heavy rain from south-east and east. Wind from +same direction. + +Thursday, 21st March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Rain has continued +at intervals during the night; a great deal has fallen. A horse having +gone into the creek to drink during the night, one of his hobbles became +undone, and got fastened to his hind shoe. He was found this morning up +to his body in water, and unable to move. Having relieved him, it was +with difficulty he could get out. He is in a tremble all over, and can +scarcely walk. The ground is so soft, even on the hills, that we cannot +walk without sinking above the ankle. I should gain nothing by starting +to-day. It would injure the horses more than a week's travelling. + +Friday, 22nd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 a.m. the +rain came down in torrents, and continued until nearly sunrise, from +south-east. Wind from same quarter. It is impossible to move to-day. The +creek is higher than it has been before, and running with great rapidity. +All the horses were found right this morning but the one which got into +the creek yesterday. After searching all the hills and the creeks round +about, he was found in a small gully by himself. + +Saturday, 23rd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Heavy shower of +rain about 4 a.m. this morning. After sunrise it all cleared away and +became fine. Started at 8.20 to cross the northern portion of the range +by following the creek up. We have had a very hard and difficult journey +of it. It is now 4 p.m., and we have arrived at Hamilton Springs. The +ground was so soft, even at the top of the ranges, that we had the +greatest difficulty in getting the horses through. We did so, however, +with the loss of a great number of shoes, and many of the horses were +very lame. Wind still south-east. + +Sunday 24th March, Hamilton Springs. I am compelled to have some of the +horses shod to-day, and also to have a number of saddle-bags mended, +which were torn by the scrub yesterday. This afternoon there is a great +deal of thunder and lightning in the north and north-east. + +Monday, 25th March, Hamilton Springs. Part of the horses missing this +morning in consequence of the green feed; did not get a start until 10.20 +a.m.; bearing 43 degrees. The country became so boggy after seven miles +that we were unable to proceed further than eleven miles. There being no +surface water, although the ground was so soft that the horses kept +bogging up to their bodies, we were forced to retreat five miles to +obtain some for them. Wind south-east, the stormy weather apparently +breaking up. Camped at 5 p.m. Latitude, 23 degrees 28 minutes 51 seconds. + +Tuesday, 26th March, Scrub North-east of Hamilton Springs. Started at 9 +a.m. on a south-south-east course to round the boggy country. At about +six miles we were enabled to cross the lower part, and go in the +direction of a low range. Camped on the north-east side of it. The last +four miles were over fair travelling-country of a red soil, with mulga +and other bushes, in some places rather thick, abounding in green grass. +We also passed many bushes of the honey mulga, but the season is passed, +and it is all dried up. Wind, east. Latitude by Pollux, 23 degrees 24 +minutes 51 seconds; by Jupiter, 23 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds. + +Wednesday, 27th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. More than half of the +horses are missing this morning; at noon we have managed to get all but +ten; they are scattered all over the place; at 5 p.m. they cannot be +found, and the water is nearly all gone, and the country much dried +towards Strangway range. I have sent the horses four miles back to a +large clay-pan that we saw yesterday, to remain there to-night and in the +morning to return. Two of the party to separate from there, and to go in +search of the missing horses, which I suppose have gone back to the +Hamilton Springs; it is very vexing, some of our best are amongst them. +Wind, east. + +Thursday, 28th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. At 11 a.m. the horses +were brought back from the clay-pan. Two of the missing ones were found +about a mile after they started, making towards where they had camped +last night. I think that the other eight must be also in that direction; +we find that all the tracks have gone that way; I shall therefore move +down to-day to the south end of the swampy country, which I know they +cannot cross, and endeavour, if possible, to find them to-night. By 1 +p.m. arrived at the end of the swamp; camped, and despatched Thring in +one direction and Sullivan in another to try and cut their tracks; at a +little before sunset Sullivan returned with three of the missing ones. +Five are still wanting. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 29th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. At sunrise sent Thring +and Sullivan again to look for the missing horses; they arrived at 5 p.m. +with three of them. If we do not find the other two to-morrow, I shall +push on without them, and endeavour to pick them up on our return. + +Saturday, 30th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. Again sent Thring and +Sullivan in search of the two remaining horses; at about 11 a.m. they +returned with them. I shall now move up to our camp of 25th instant. +Camped at some rain water a little south of our former place, where there +is plenty of feed for the horses. Wind, south-east; clouds from +north-west. + +Sunday, 31st March, Rain Water in Scrub. All day the sky has been +overcast with clouds from the north-west. Wind from south-east. + +Monday, 1st April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 a.m.; course, 330 degrees. +At 1 p.m. we came upon a very pretty flat of beautiful grass, with water +in the middle of it; and, as the afternoon has every appearance of rain, +I have camped--to go on in the rain will only spoil our provisions. We +had scarcely got the packs off when it came on heavily, and lasted about +an hour: it then ceased until sundown, when it came on again, and +continued till 10.30 p.m. + +Tuesday, 2nd April, Green Flat in Scrub. Started at 8.20 a.m. on same +course, and camped at 1.30 p.m. under a prominent rocky hill, which I +ascended and have named Mount Harris, after Peter G. Harris, Esquire, of +Adelaide. I obtained bearings of the different points all round. The last +seven miles was sandy soil, with spinifex and scrub, which was mostly +young cork-tree, and the broad-leafed mallee. + +Wednesday, 3rd April, Mount Harris. We have put up a small cone of stones +on the top of this mount. Started at 8 a.m. for Anna's Reservoir. Arrived +at the creek about two miles south-south-east of it, and, finding it +running, camped amongst excellent feed. By keeping to west of my former +track I have found the country much opener; but nearly all day the +journey has been through spinifex. Wind from west. + +Thursday, 4th April, The Wicksteed, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.40 a.m. +to cross the range, bearing to Mount Freeling 312 degrees. At 1.30 p.m. +crossed the range, and arrived at the creek, camping at the same place as +I did on my previous journey, and finding water and feed abundant. I have +named this creek the Woodforde, after Dr. Woodforde, of Adelaide. After +crossing the range, we found the bean-tree in blossom; it was +magnificent. I have obtained a specimen of it; also some beans, a number +of which were of a cream colour; we have roasted a few of them, and find +that they make very good coffee. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 5th April, The Woodforde, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.30 a.m. +Camped at 4.30 p.m. on the Hanson, which is now a running stream. About +five miles back we passed a freshly-built native worley. I observed a +peculiarity in it which I never noticed in any before--namely, that it +was constructed with greater care than usual. It was thatched with grass +down to the ground. Inside the worley there was a quantity of grass laid +regularly for a bed, on which some one had been lying. Round about the +front was collected a large quantity of firewood, as much as would have +done for us for a night. Latitude, 22 degrees 5 minutes 30 seconds, +bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 25 degrees. Wind, south-south-west. + +Saturday, 6th April, The Hanson. Started at 8 a.m., on a course of 46 +degrees 30 minutes, to the springs in the Hanson; this course led me +through about four miles of very thick mulga. After crossing the central +line we arrived on the creek and camped, below the springs, at 1.30 p.m. +Bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 251 degrees 20 minutes. Wind variable. + +Sunday, 7th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Day hot. Wind +variable, with a few clouds. + +Monday, 8th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Five of the +horses missing this morning. Started at 9.45, course 45 degrees; camped +on the Stirling at 3.50 p.m. Through all the day's journey the country +abounded in grass and water. Wind from south. + +Tuesday, 9th April, The Stirling, Forster Range. Started at 7.30 a.m., to +cross Forster range on the same course. At 10.50 a.m. camped on north +side of it, on a large gum creek with water. I have named this the +Taylor, after John Taylor, Esquire, of the firm of Messrs. Elder, +Stirling, & Co., of Adelaide. This is a most beautiful place, a plain +four miles broad between two granite ranges, completely covered with +grass, and a gum creek winding through the centre. I made a short journey +to-day in consequence of having some of the horses lame, and some weak +through the effects of the green grass, and to-morrow's journey will be a +long one. Had I gone on to-day, they would in all probability be without +water, and would require to be tied up during the night. I shall now be +able to get through in one day, and keep them in good condition for the +unexplored country, which I expect to commence next Monday. + +Wednesday, 10th April, The Taylor. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a course of 11 +degrees 30 minutes for Mount Morphett; at 12.30 ascended the summit. On +the north side we had some difficulty in getting the horses down; +however, we managed without accident. Ran a creek down and found some +water; gave the horses a drink; still followed it until it was lost in a +grassy plain. Proceeded on to the next hills, passed through a gap, and +made for a creek on the north side, in which we found water, and camped +at 4 p.m. + +Thursday, 11th April, North Side Mount Morphett, Crawford Range. Started +at 7.45 a.m. on a course of 10 degrees. The first four miles was over a +beautiful grassy plain, with mulga wood, not very thick; it then became +more sandy, and covered with gum, cork-trees, and other scrubs, which +continued within a mile of where we camped, in a small, but beautiful +grassed plain; no water. Latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes 33 seconds. Wind, +south-east. + +Friday, 12th April, Grassy Plain. Started at 6.15 a.m., same course. At 1 +p.m. arrived at the Bonney; it is now running--green feed abundant. As +some of the horses are still very lame, I will rest them to-morrow and +Sunday, and start into the unexplored country on Monday morning. Wind +from south-east; a few clouds from north-east. + +Saturday, 13th April, The Bonney. Sent Thring down the creek to see what +its course is, and if the country gets more open; the men mending +saddle-bags, cleaning and repairing saddles, shoeing horses, etc. While I +and Woodforde were endeavouring to get a shot at some ducks on the long +water holes, a fish, which he describes as being about two feet long, +with dark spots on either side, came to the surface; he fired at it, but +was unsuccessful in killing it. A little before sundown Thring returned; +he gave a very bad account of the creek; it was a dry deep channel. Wind, +variable; cloudy. + +Sunday, 14th April, The Bonney. Wind from every quarter, with clouds; a +few drops of rain fell about the middle of the day; after sundown much +lightning in the south-west. + +Monday, 15th April, The Bonney. Cloudy; wind still variable. Mount +Fisher, bearing 120 degrees. Started at 7.15 a.m., bearing 290 degrees; +at 11.40 changed to 264 degrees, to some rising ground; at 12.45 p.m., +after crossing stony hills, we crossed a gum creek on the west side, with +long reaches of water in it running north-west, which I supposed to be +the Bonney; but as there appeared to be more and larger gum-trees farther +on, I continued, to see if there were not another channel. Proceeded +three miles over low limestone rises, with small flats between, on which +was growing spinifex, and the gum-trees which I had seen--exactly the +same description of country from which I was forced to return through +want of water on my former journey from Mount Denison to north-west. I +therefore returned to the creek, which I find to be the Bonney, now much +smaller, but containing plenty of water--followed it down to +north-north-west for about one mile, and then camped. The water is in +long reaches, which I think are permanent. + +Tuesday, 16th April, The Bonney. Still cloudy. Started at 8 a.m. on a +bearing of 380 degrees. At 11.15 changed to 40 degrees, with the +intention of cutting the McLaren. Camped at 3.40 p.m. Three miles from +our start the creek spreads itself over a large grassy plain, thickly +studded with gum-trees, covered with long grass, and a great number of +white ants' nests of all sizes and shapes, putting one in mind of walking +through a large cemetery. In many places it was very boggy. We followed +it for ten miles, but it still continued the same; I could not see more +than one hundred yards before me, the gum-trees, and sometimes a low +scrub, being so thick. Not seeing anything of the McLaren coming into the +plain, I changed my course to cut it and run it down, as I think that it +will form a large creek where they join. In three miles we got out of the +plain upon a red sandy soil, with spinifex, and scrubs of all kinds, in +some places very thick, and difficult to get the horses through. When we +were in the gum plain the atmosphere was so close and heavy, and the +ground so soft, that the sweat was running in streams from the horses; +and when we halted for a few minutes they were puffing and blowing as +though they had just come in from running a race. I continued the second +course for fourteen miles, but saw nothing of the McLaren; it must have +joined the plain before I left it. Thus ends the Bonney and the McLaren. +We passed over several quartz and ironstone ranges of low hills crossing +our course, and camped under a high one, without water. Wind south-east. +Cloudy. + +Wednesday, 17th April,* (* The Journal of this Expedition, as published +by the Royal Geographical Society, commences here.) Quartz Hill, West +Mount Blyth. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a bearing of 70 degrees. We again +passed quartz hills running as yesterday; the spinifex still continuing, +with a little grass, until we came within a mile of the hills in the +Murchison range; finding some water, I camped, and gave the horses the +rest of the day to recruit. Last night after sundown, and during the +night, we had a few slight showers of rain, and a great deal of thunder +and lightning, mostly from south-west. About 11 to-day the clouds all +cleared away. About a mile before camping, we observed the ground covered +with numerous native tracks; also that a number of the gum-trees were +stripped of their bark all round. + +Thursday, 18th April, West Mount Blyth. Started at 7.40 a.m., same +bearing, across the Murchison range, in which we found great difficulty. +On the north-east side of Mount Blyth we found a large gum creek of +permanent water, and camped. I have named this Ann Creek. I then rode to +the highest point of the range, taking Thring with me, to see if there is +any rising ground to north-west by which I may cross the gum plain. I +could see no rise, nothing but a line of dark-green wood on the horizon. +We had great difficulty in getting to the top, the rocks being so +precipitous. In coming down the eastern side we were gratified by the +sight of a beautiful waterfall, upwards of one hundred feet high, over +columns of basaltic rock, its form, two sides of a triangle, the water +coming over the angle. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 19th April, Ann Creek. Started at 7.45 a.m., on a course of 324 +degrees, towards Mount Samuel. After sundown arrived at Goodiar Creek; +one of the horses done up; had to leave him a little distance back; he is +unwell. On leaving the Murchison range we crossed a number of quartz +reefs and hills running east and south-west. Wind, south-south-east. + +Saturday, 20th April, Goodiar Creek. Three horses missing this morning, +in consequence of the scarcity of feed. The horse left behind last night +has been brought in; he looks very bad indeed. About 11 a.m. the other +horses were found, brought in, and saddled, and we proceeded on a +north-north-west course for Bishop Creek, but found the sick horse too +ill to proceed further than Tennant Creek, where we camped, there being +plenty of water and feed. Two natives were seen by Masters this morning +when in search of the horses--he could not get them to come near him. +Wind, south-west. + +Sunday, 21st April, Tennant Creek. Wind from south-west; a few clouds +from east. + +Monday, 22nd April, Tennant Creek. Started at 7.30 a.m., course 21 +degrees, for Bishop Creek, and at twelve miles made it. I find that two +of the horses are so weak that they are unable to go any further without +giving in, I have therefore camped, giving them the remainder of the day +to recruit. Native fires are smoking all around us, but at some distance +off. Wind, east. + +Tuesday, 23rd April, Bishop Creek. It is late before we can get a start +to-day, in consequence of one of the horses concealing himself in the +creek. He is an unkind brute, we have much trouble with him in that +respect; he is constantly hiding himself somewhere or other. Started at +9.30 a.m., on a course of 17 degrees, to cross Short range. Found plenty +of water in Phillips Creek; the grass on its banks, and on the plains +where it empties itself, is splendid, two feet and a half long, fit for +the scythe to go into, and an abundant crop of hay could be obtained. We +then crossed the range a little north of where I passed before, and found +some slight difficulty. After descending, we struck a small creek which +supplies Kekwick Ponds, and is a tributary to Hayward Creek; found plenty +of water and camped at 3 p.m. Feed abundant. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 24th April, Hayward Creek. Started at 7.40 a.m.; course 17 +degrees. At 9.30 changed to 14 degrees 30 minutes west of north, and at +12.30 arrived at Attack Creek; camped at the same place that I did on my +former journey. Tracks of natives about, but we have seen none of them. I +kept about a mile to the west of my former track, and found the country +much more open. The banks of both creeks for two or three miles are +splendidly covered with grass, in some places over the horses' heads. +Four of the horses are ill, and looking very bad indeed. Wind, +south-west. + +Thursday, 25th April, Attack Creek. Started at 7.50 a.m., on a course of +294 degrees, to the top of the range, which I have named Whittington +Range, after William S. Whittington, Esquire, of Adelaide. At six miles +reached the top. At 9.50 changed to north-west, and at 11.30 struck a +large gum creek running east, with large water holes in it. At about two +hundred yards crossed it again, running to the west, and shortly +afterwards crossed it again, running to the east. I have called it +Morphett Creek, after the Honourable John Morphett, Chief Secretary. We +then ascended another portion of the range, and continued along a spur on +our course. This range presents quite a new feature, in having gums +growing on the top and all round it; it is composed of masses of +ironstone, granite, sand, and limestone, and in some places white marble. +Thinking that the creek we had passed might break through a low part of +the range, which I could see to the north-west, at ten miles I changed to +west, and crossed to the other range, but found the dip of the country to +the south. We could find no water; traced the creek to the south-east for +two miles, found some water and camped. The range is very rough and +stony, covered with spinifex; but the creeks are beautifully grassed. +Native smoke to east. This is one of the sources of Morphett Creek, and +flows to the east; it is as large, if not larger, than Attack Creek, and, +in all probability, contains water holes quite as fine to the eastward. +Latitude, 18 degrees 50 minutes 40 seconds. + +Friday, 26th April, Morphett Creek. At 8 a.m. started on a course of 300 +degrees to cross the north-west part of the range. Camped upon a plain of +the same description as John Plain, that I met with on my former journey +to the north-east of Bishop Creek, a large open plain covered with grass, +and with only a few bushes on it. The journey to-day has been very rough +and stony. Not a drop of water have we passed to-day, nor is there the +appearance of any on before us. I shall be compelled to fall back +to-morrow to the water of last night. Four of the horses, I am afraid, +will not be able to get there. I must try more to the north, and +endeavour to get quit of the plains, and get amongst the creeks. There is +no hope of success on this course. Latitude, 18 degrees 38 minutes. Wind, +east. + +Saturday, 27th April, Grassy Plains. Started at 7.10 a.m., course 110 +degrees, to the other side of the plain. At three miles came upon a small +creek running towards the north; I followed it down to the north. At +three miles came upon a fine large creek, coming from the south-east, +with plenty of water. Returned to the party, took them down to the large +creek on north course, and at three miles camped. Two of the horses are +nearly done up. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 35 minutes 20 +seconds. + +Sunday, 28th April, Tomkinson Creek. Sent Thring down to examine and see +how the creek runs. I have named it after S. Tomkinson, Esquire, Manager +of the Bank of Australasia, at Adelaide. We have found many new plants +and flowers, also some trees, one of which grows to a considerable size, +the largest being about a foot in diameter. The fruit is about the size +and colour, and has the appearance of plums; the bark is of a grey +colour; the foliage oval, and dark-green. Another is more of a bush, and +has a very peculiar appearance; the seed vessel is about the size of an +orange, but more pointed. When ripe it opens into four divisions, which +look exactly like honeycomb inside, and in which the seeds are +contained; they are about the size of a nut, the outside being very +hard. The natives roast and eat them. The leaves resemble the mulberry, +and are of a downy light-green. We have obtained a few of the seeds of +it. The bean-tree does not seem to grow up here. Mr. Kekwick, in looking +for plants this morning, discovered one which very much resembles wheat +in straw (which is very tough), ear, and seed. It grows two feet high. +The seed is small, but very much like wheat both in shape and colour. At +about 3 p.m. Thring returned, having run the creek out into a large +grassy plain. The course of this creek is west-north-west for about nine +miles; it then turns to west, and empties itself into the plain. There +is plenty of water about, but where it empties itself it becomes quite +dry. The native companion, the emu, and the sacred ibis are on this +creek. The country is splendidly grassed. We have got to the north side +of the Whittington range. I shall have to leave my two done-up horses +here, and will get them when I return. The hills and rocks are of the +same description as the first part of the range. Wind, south. Sun hot, +but the nights and mornings are very cold. + +Monday, 29th April, Tomkinson Creek. Had a late start this morning in +consequence of my having to take a lunar observation. Started at 10.30 +a.m. At 2.10 p.m. reached the top of a high hill; from this we could see +a gum creek. Started at 2.30 to examine it; found water, and camped at 4. +I have named the hill Mount Primrose, after John Primrose, Esquire, of +North Adelaide. This water will last us six or eight weeks. The country +passed to-day has been mostly stony rises of the same description as the +other parts of the range. The valleys have a light sandy soil, nearly all +with spinifex and scrub. The view from the top of Mount Primrose is not +extensive, except to the west and south-west, which appears to be thick +wood or scrub. Near the top we met with the Eucalyptus Dumosa. Wind, +south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 25 minutes. + +Tuesday, 30th April, Carruthers Creek. The creek in which we are now +camped I have named Carruthers Creek, after John Carruthers, Esquire, of +North Adelaide. Started at 8.50 a.m. At 1.50 p.m. found a creek running +from the range, with a splendid hole of permanent water situated under a +cliff, where the creek leaves the range; it is very deep, with a rocky +bottom. From the top of the range the country seems to be very thick, +which I am afraid is scrub; no high hills visible. To the north of this +the range appears to cease; I wish it had continued for another sixty +miles. The country passed to-day has been stony rises coming from the +range, very rough and rocky indeed. My horses' shoes are nearly all gone; +I am obliged to let some go without--they have felt the last four rough +days very much. Spinifex, scrub, and stunted gums all the day, with +occasionally a few tufts of grass; this is very poor country indeed. +Smoke of native fires still in south-east. The hills of the same +formation as those we first came upon in entering the ranges from Attack +Creek. I have named this creek Hunter Creek, after Mr. Hunter, of Messrs. +Hunter, Stevenson, and Co., of Adelaide. Camped. The horses seem very +tired. Wind, east. Latitude, 18 degrees 17 minutes. + +Wednesday, 1st May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8 a.m., course, 305 degrees. +At 8.45 crossed the Hunter going south-west; it came round again and +continued crossing our course thirteen times in nine miles, after which +it was lost in a large grassy and gum plain. At 5.15 camped. The plain in +which the creek loses itself bears south-west; the banks are beautifully +grassed, but about a mile on either side the soil is sandy, with spinifex +and scrub, which continued for nine miles; we then entered upon a scrub +and grassy plain. Here I noticed a new and very beautiful tree--in some +instances a foot in diameter--with drooping branches. Its bark was grey +and rough, and it had a small dark-green leaf, shaped like a butterfly's +wing. Not finding a creek, nor the least indication of a watercourse, and +the scrub becoming very thick, I changed to north, to see if I could find +any water; but at three miles we lost the gums, the new tree taking their +place, and becoming very thick scrub with plenty of grass, but no signs +of a watercourse. I again changed to east in the hope of cutting one in +that direction. At one mile and a half again came upon small gums; and at +three miles, seeing neither creek nor any hope of getting water, camped. +The horses very tired. Wind light from west-north-west. Latitude, 18 +degrees 3 minutes 19 seconds. + +Thursday, 2nd May, Large Scrubby and Grassy Plain. Started at 10 a.m. in +consequence of some of the horses having strayed a long way to the east +during the night; course, 143 degrees 30 minutes, back to Hunter Creek. I +have taken a different course to see if there is any creek that supplies +this plain with water. For about nine miles we passed over a splendidly +grassed plain, with gum-trees, the new tree, and a number of all sorts of +bushes. One part for about three miles is subject to inundation, and the +Eucalyptus Dumosa grows thickly on it. We then passed over about two +miles of spinifex and grass, and again entered the grassy plain, which +continued to Hunter Creek. During the whole day we have not seen the +shadow of a creek or watercourse. If there had been any sign of a +watercourse, or if I could have seen any rising ground near our course, I +would have gone on another day. I sent Wall to the top of the highest +tree to see if there was anything within view; he could see nothing but +the same description of plain. If my horses can travel to-morrow, I will +try a course to the north, and run down the creek, to see if there is one +that will lead me through this plain. If I could get to some rising +ground, I think I should be all right; but there is none visible except +the end of the range, which is lost sight of to the north-east. Wind +again south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 18 degrees 13 minutes 40 +seconds. + +Friday, 3rd May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8.40 a.m.; course, north. At +11.15 (nine miles), came upon a creek; bed dry and sandy; searched for +water, and, at three quarters of a mile to east, found a nice hole; +watered the horses and proceeded on the same course--starting at 12. At +3.20 p.m. changed to 20 degrees north of east; the first ten miles were +over a plain of gums covered with grass two feet long; we had then six +miles of spinifex, and a thick scrub of dwarf lancewood, as tough as +whalebone. After that we entered upon another gum plain, also splendidly +grassed, which continued for four miles, when the gums suddenly ceased, +and it became a large open plain to north, as far as I could see. Seeing +no appearance of water, I changed my course to 30 degrees north of east, +to some high gums; and, at one mile, not finding any, I camped without +it. This seems now to be a change of country; there is no telling when or +where I may get the next water on this course, so that I shall be +compelled to go towards the range to-morrow to get some, and have a long +day's journey to the new country. The wind has been from east all day. +Latitude, 17 degrees 56 minutes 40 seconds. + +Saturday, 4th May, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.15 a.m., course east, to +find water. At 3.20 p.m. came upon a little creek and found a small +quantity of water, which we gave to the horses. Started again at 9 p.m., +course south-east, following the creek to find more; at a mile and a half +found water which will do for us until Monday morning. I proceeded to the +top of the range to obtain a view of the country round, but was +disappointed in its height; from the plain it appeared higher than it +really is. This range I have named Ashburton Range, after Lord Ashburton, +President of the Royal Geographical Society. The point upon which I am at +present is about three miles east of our camp; the view from south to +north-west is over a wooded plain; from north-west to north is a large +open plain with scarcely a tree upon it. On leaving our last night's +camp, we passed over three miles of the plain, which is subject to +inundation. There are numerous nasty holes in it, into which the horses +were constantly stumbling. It is covered with splendid grass, and is as +fine a country as I have ever crossed. These plains I have named Sturt +Plains, after the venerable father of Australian exploration and my +respected commander of the expedition in 1845. Ashburton range is +composed of sandstone and ironstone, granite, and a little quartz; it is +very rough and broken. Native tracks about here. Wind, south-east. This +creek I have named Watson Creek, after Mr. Watson, formerly of Clare. + +Sunday, 5th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Sent Thring to the north +along the range to see if there is permanent water; at eight miles he +returned, having found plenty. One large hole is about a mile from here; +in another creek it is apparently permanent, having a rocky bed. A flight +of pelicans over head to-day; they seem to have come from the north-west, +which course I will try to-morrow. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17 degrees +58 minutes 40 seconds. + +Monday, 6th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 8.20 a.m., +course 300 degrees, to cross Sturt Plain. At eleven miles arrived at the +hill which I saw from Ashburton range. It turned out to be the banks of +what was once a fresh-water lake; the water-wash is quite distinct. It +had small iron and limestone gravel, with sand and a great number of +shells worn by the sun and atmosphere to the thinness of paper, plainly +indicating that it is many years since the water had left them. Judging +from the water-marks, the lake must have been about twelve feet deep in +the plain. The eucalyptus is growing here. We then proceeded over another +open part of it, for about two miles, when the dwarf eucalypti again +commenced, and continued until we camped at twenty-one miles; the horses +quite worn out. This has been the hardest and most fatiguing day's work +we have had since starting from Chambers Creek; for, from the time we +left in the morning until we camped, we have had nothing but a succession +of rotten ground, with large deep holes and cracks in it, caused at a +former period by water, into which the poor horses have been constantly +falling the whole day, running the risk of breaking their legs and our +necks, the grass being so long and thick that they could not possibly see +them before they were into them. I had a very severe fall into one of +these holes; my horse came right over and rolled nearly on top of me. I +was fortunate enough to escape with little injury. Some of the shells +resemble the cockle shell, but are much longer, many of them being three +or four inches long; the others are of the shape of periwinkles, but six +times as large. Both sorts are scattered over the plain, which is +completely matted with grass. The soil is a dark rich alluvial, and +judging from the cracks and holes, some of which are of considerable +depth, they are splendid plains, but not a drop of surface water could we +see upon them, nor a single bird to indicate that there is any. It was my +intention at starting to have gone on thirty miles, but I find it quite +impossible for the horses to do more; it would be madness to take them +another day over such a country, when from the highest tree we can see no +change. If I were to go another day and be without water, I should never +be able to get one of the horses back, and in all probability should lose +the lives of the whole party. If I could see the least chance of finding +water, or a termination of the plain, I would proceed and risk +everything. I see there is no hope of my reaching the river by this +course. I believe this gum plain to be a continuation of the one I met +with beyond the Centre, and that it may continue to the banks of the +Victoria. The features of the country are nearly the same. The absence of +all birds has a bad appearance. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude, +17 degrees 49 minutes. + +Tuesday, 7th May, Sturt Plains. Before sunrise this morning I sent Wall +up a tree to see if any hills or rising grounds would be visible by +refraction. To the west, with a powerful telescope he can just see the +top of rising ground. As the grass is now quite dry, the horses feel the +want of water very much; many of them are looking wretched, and I hardly +think will be able to reach it. However reluctant, I must go back for the +safety of the party. At 3 p.m. arrived at the creek which Thring found +about one mile to the north of my former camp, with the loss of only one +horse; we had to leave him a short distance behind, he would not move a +step further, although during a great part of the journey he had been +carrying little or nothing. This water will last two months at least; +feed good. It is inside the first ironstone rise in Ashburton range, in a +gum creek which empties itself into the plains. This creek I have named +Hawker Creek, after James Hawker, Esquire, of her Majesty's Customs at +Port Adelaide. The day has been very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17 +degrees 58 minutes. + +Wednesday, 8th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. I have sent Masters +back to bring up the horse we left behind. Sturt Plains have been at one +time the bed of a large fresh-water lake; our journey of the 6th instant +was over the middle of it, and we were not at the end of it when I was +forced to return; the same rotten ground and shells continued, although +we had got amongst the eucalypti. I shall give the horses a rest to-day, +and to-morrow will take the best of them (those that I had out on my +former journey), and endeavour to cross the plain to the rising ground +seen yesterday morning; I shall take Thring and Woodforde, with seven +horses and one week's provisions. I may be fortunate enough to find some +water, but from the appearance of the country I have little hope. I +shall, however, leave nothing untried to accomplish the object of the +expedition. In the morning the horse we left behind could not be found; +sent Masters and Sullivan in search of him; in the afternoon they +returned with him looking miserable. He had wandered away beyond the +other camp. + +Thursday, 9th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 7 a.m., with +Thring and Woodforde, and seven horses, following our tracks through the +rotten ground to the first eucalypti, for about twelve miles, as it made +it lighter for the horses, the tracks being beaten to that place. Changed +our course to 282 degrees, still journeying over Sturt Plains; at +twenty-seven miles arrived at the end of the portion of them that had +been subject to inundation, but there are still too many holes to be +pleasant. I certainly never did see a more splendid country for grass; in +many places for miles it is above the horses' knees. We entered upon red +sandy soil, with spinifex and grass, from which we changed our bearing. +The country became thickly studded with eucalypti, in one or two places +rather open, but generally thick. After the twenty-seven miles we again +met with the new small-leafed tree, the broad-leafed mallee, the +eucalypti, and many other scrubs. At sundown we camped; distance, +thirty-three miles, but not a drop of water have we seen the whole day, +or the least indication of its proximity. I hope to-morrow we may be more +fortunate, and find some. Wind, south. + +Friday, 10th May, Sturt Plains. This morning there are a few birds about. +Started at 8.15 a.m., same course; at 10.30 arrived on first top of +rising ground seen from the camp of 7th instant, which turns out to be +red sand hills covered with thick scrub. Changed our course to +north-west, and at 11.15 arrived at the highest point; the view is very +discouraging--nothing to be seen all round but sand hills of the same +description, their course north-north-east, and south to west. No high +hills or range to be seen through the telescope. We can see a long +distance, apparently all sand hills with scrub and stunted gums on them. +The first ridge is about two hundred feet above Sturt Plains, but further +to the west they are much lower, and become seemingly red sandy +undulating table land; but further to the west they are much lower. There +is no hope of reaching the Victoria on this course. I would have gone on +further to-day had I seen the least chance of obtaining water to-night; +but during the greater part of yesterday and to-day we have met with no +birds that frequent country where water is. Both yesterday and to-day +have been excessively hot, and the country very heavy. From this point I +can see twenty-five miles without anything like a change. To go on now +with such a prospect, and such heavy country before me, would only be +sacrificing our horses and our own lives without a hope of success--the +horses having already come forty-five miles without a drop of water, and +over as heavy a country as was ever travelled on. I have therefore, with +reluctance, made up my mind to return to the camp and try it again +further north, where I may have a chance of rounding the sand hills; the +dip of them from here seems to be south-south-west. Turned back, and at +eighteen miles camped on Sturt Plains, where there is green grass for the +horses. Wind, south. + +Saturday, 11th May, Sturt Plains. At dawn of day started for the camp; +arrived at 2 p.m. It was fortunate I did not go on further, for some of +the horses were scarcely able to reach it; a few more hours and I should +have lost half of them. The day has been so hot that it has nearly +knocked them all up. Found the rest of the party all right at the camp. +We had a job to keep the horses from injuring themselves by drinking too +much water. I gave them a little three separate times, tied them up for +twenty minutes, and then gave them a good drink, and drove them off to +feed. They took a few mouthfuls of grass, and were back again almost +immediately, and continued to do so nearly all the afternoon. They drank +an immense quantity. Wind, south. + +Sunday, 12th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. My old horses that were +out with me before look very well this morning, but the others, whose +first trip of privation this has been, are looking very bad indeed. They +could not have gone another night without water; it has pulled them down +terribly. Yesterday, while Masters was looking for the horses, he saw +what appeared to him to be a piece of wood stuck upon a tree, about two +feet and a half long, sharp at both ends, broad at the bottom, and shaped +like a canoe. Having pulled it down, he found it to be hollow. On the top +of it were placed a number of pieces of bark, and the whole bound firmly +round with grass cord. He undid it, and found the skull and bones of a +child within. Mr. Kekwick brought it to me this morning for my +inspection. It certainly is the finest piece of workmanship I have ever +seen executed by natives. It is about twelve inches deep and ten wide, +tapering off at the ends. Small lines are cut along both sides of it. It +has been cut out of a solid piece of wood, with some sharp instrument. It +is exactly the model of a canoe. I told him to do it up again, and +replace it as it was found. If it is here when I return, I will endeavour +to take it to Adelaide with me. Wind, variable. A few clouds about. + +Monday, 13th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 8 a.m., +course 360 degrees. At five miles crossed the large gum-tree creek, with +water, that Thring found; proceeded along the side of Sturt Plains. At +ten miles ascended the north point of Ashburton range; descended, and the +country became red sand with spinifex, gum-tree, the new tree, and other +shrubs very thick; at fifteen miles, gained the top of another stony +rise; followed three creeks down in search of water; found a little, but +not sufficient for us; followed it still further down, leading us to the +south for about six miles, but could find no more. I thought it best to +return for water to the large creek, which I have named Ferguson Creek, +after Peter Ferguson, Esquire, of Gawler Town. From the top of the range +the view is limited. To the north and north-east are stony rises, at +about nine miles distant; from north to west are Sturt Plains, in some +places wooded; to the north they are open for a very long distance; the +country in the hills is bad, but in the plains is beautiful. I am afraid, +from the view I have of the country to the north, that I shall again meet +with the same description of sand hills that I came upon on my last +western course. Wind east-south-east, blowing strong. Latitude, 17 +degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds. + +Tuesday, 14th May, Ferguson Creek. Started at 8.30 a.m., on a north +course, to the place I turned back from yesterday; arrived at noon; +changed course to 345 degrees. Started again at 12.20. At 1 p.m. crossed +a gum creek that has the appearance of water. At 1.40 changed course to +260 degrees, and came upon two large water holes, apparently very deep, +situated in the rocks--they are seemingly permanent. Camped. I named this +creek Lawson Creek, after Dr. Lawson, J.P., of Port Lincoln. A number of +natives have been camped about them. We found another canoe, of the same +description as the one in which the bones of the child were found--it is +broken and burned, and seems to have been used as a vessel for holding +water. Wind south-east, blowing strong. Mornings and evenings very cold. +Latitude, 17 degrees 43 minutes 30 seconds. + +Wednesday, 15th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8.10 a.m.; went a mile west +to clear the stones; changed course to 340 degrees. At 2.45 p.m. changed +again to 45 degrees. Camped at 4.15. The first twelve miles is poor +country, being on the top of stony rises, with eucalypti, grass, and +scrubs. After descending from the rises, we crossed a wooded plain, +subject to inundation; no water. The trees are very thick indeed--they +are the eucalyptus, the Eucalyptus Dumosa, the small-leaved tree, another +small-leaved tree much resembling the hawthorn, spreading out into many +branches from the root; it rises to upwards of twenty feet in height. We +have also seen three other new shrubs, but there were no seeds on them. +After crossing the plain we got upon red sandy rises, very thick with +scrub and trees of the same description. We continued on this course +until 2.45 p.m.; then, as there is an open plain in sight, with rising +ground upon it to north-east, and as this scrubby ridge seems to +continue, without the least appearance of water, I have changed to +north-east. Crossed the plain, which is alluvial soil, covered with +grass, but very dry. At 4.15 camped on north-east side, without water. I +would have gone on to the rise, but I feel so ill that I am unable to sit +any longer in the saddle. I have been suffering for the last three days +from a severe pain in the chest. Wind, east. Latitude, 17 degrees 16 +minutes 20 seconds. + +Thursday, 16th May, Sturt Plains. Sent Thring to see if there is a creek +or a sign of water under the rise. At 8.20 a.m. he returned, having found +no water. It is a low sandy rise, covered with a dense scrub. Started at +8.20 a.m.; course, east. At three miles I was forced to return; the scrub +is so dense that it is impossible to get through. Came back two miles; +changed to 20 degrees west of south to get out of it. At two miles gained +the plain, then changed to the east of south at 10.45. At 2 p.m. there is +no hope of a creek or water. Changed to south-west. At two miles and a +half struck our tracks and proceeded to Lawson Creek. We found the open +parts of the plain black alluvial soil so rotten and cracked, that the +horses were sinking over their knees; this continued for six miles. It is +covered with long grass and polygonum; also a few eucalypti scattered +over it. The scrub we were compelled to return from was the thickest I +have ever had to contend with. The horses would not face it. They turned +about in every direction, and we were in danger of losing them. In two or +three yards they were quite out of sight. In the short distance we +penetrated it has torn our hands, faces, clothes, and, what is of more +consequence, our saddle-bags, all to pieces. It consists of scrub of +every kind, which is as thick as a hedge. Had we gone further into it we +should have lost everything off the horses. No signs of water. From south +to west, north and north-east nothing visible but Sturt Plains, with a +few sand rises having scrub on them, which terminate the spurs of the +stony rises. They are a complete barrier between me and the Victoria. I +should think that water could be easily obtained at a moderate depth in +many places on the plains. If I had plenty of provisions I would try to +make it by that way. The only course that I can now try is to the +north-east or east, to round the dense scrub and plains. At sundown +arrived at Lawson Creek. The horses, owing to the dryness of the grass, +drank a great quantity of water; they are falling off very much. Wind, +south-east. + +Friday, 17th May, Sturt Plains. I must remain here to-day to mend +saddle-bags, etc. I have sent Thring to north-east to see if the stony +rises continue in that direction. He has returned and gives a very poor +account of the country. He crossed them in about six miles, and again +came upon the plain that we were on yesterday, extending from north-east +to south. Nothing but plains. To the north is the dense scrub, thus +forming a complete stop to further progress. From here I fear it is a +hopeless case either to reach Victoria or the Gulf. The plains and forest +are as great a barrier as if there had been an inland sea or a wall built +round. I shall rest the horses till Monday, and will then try a course to +the north-west, and another to north-east. I have not the least hope of +succeeding without wells, and I have not sufficient provisions to enable +me to remain and dig them. It is a great disappointment to be so near, +and yet through want of water to be unable to attain the desired end. +Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 18th May, Lawson Creek. Resting horses, etc. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 19th May, Lawson Creek. Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 20th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 7.25 a.m., course 45 degrees, +with Thring, Woodforde, and seven horses. The first four miles was over +the stony rises; the next three, sandy table-land, with spinifex, +eucalyptus, and scrub. Crossed part of Sturt Plains, open and covered +with grass. Five miles of it were very heavy travelling-ground, very +rotten, and full of holes and cracks. At about thirty miles camped on the +plains. We have seen no birds, nor any living thing, except kites and +numerous grasshoppers, which are in myriads on the plains. From this +place to the east, and as far as south-south-west, there is no rising +ground within range of vision--nothing but an immense open grassy plain. +The absence of birds proclaims it to be destitute of water. We have not +seen a drop, not a creek, nor a watercourse during the whole day's +journey. To-morrow I shall again try to get through the scrub. On leaving +the camp this morning, I instructed Kekwick to move the party about three +miles down the creek to another water hole, the feed not being good. +Wind, east. + +Tuesday, 21st May, Sturt Plains, East. Started at 7.10 a.m. Passed +through a very thick scrub seven miles in extent. We again entered on +another portion of the open plains at ten miles from our last night's +camp. Nothing to be seen on the horizon all round but plains. Changed to +300 degrees, to where I saw some pigeons fly. At two miles came across +their feeding-ground; skirted the scrub until we cut our tracks. No +appearance of water. This is again a continuation of the open portion of +Sturt Plains; they appear to be of immense extent, with occasional strips +of dense forest and scrub. We had seven miles of it this morning as thick +as ever I went through; it has scratched and torn us all to pieces. At my +furthest on the open plain. I saw that it was hopeless to proceed, for +from the west to north, and round to south-south-west, there is nothing +to be seen but immense open plains covered with grass, subject to +inundation, having an occasional low bush upon them. I think with the aid +of the telescope I must have seen at least sixty miles; there is not the +least appearance of rising ground, watercourse, or smoke of natives in +any direction. The sun is extremely hot on the plain. Having no hope of +finding water this morning, I left Woodforde with the pack and spare +horses where we camped last night, as the heat and rough journey of +yesterday have tired them a great deal; so much so, that I fear some of +them will not be able to get back to water. Returned to where I had left +him, and followed our tracks back to the open plain. After sundown camped +among some scrub. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 22nd May, Sturt Plains. After sunset we saw a number of +turkeys flying towards the stony rises where our main camp is; they +appear to come from the north-west. Upwards of fifty passed over in twos +and threes; and this morning we observed them going back again. Two of +the horses which had been short hobbled walked off during the night, +following our tracks. Saddled and followed, overtaking them in three +miles and a half, standing under the shade of a tree. Unhobbled and drove +them on before us. At 12 o'clock arrived at Lawson Creek. Had great +difficulty in preventing the horses from drinking too much, and, as there +are other holes down the creek, I gave them a little at a time at each. +Found that Kekwick had moved with the party. Followed them, and at three +miles and a half west-south-west arrived at their camp, and allowed the +horses to drink as much as they chose. Poor brutes! they have had very +hard work, eighty miles over the heaviest country, under a burning sun, +without a drop of water. Three of them were those I had on my former +journeys; I could depend upon them; the rest were the best I could pick +from the other lot. They have all stood the journey very well, but could +not have done another day without water. Natives seem to have been about +this water lately, but we have not seen one since leaving our spitting +friend on the Hugh. Wind, east. + +Thursday, 23rd May, Lawson Creek. Started 7.45 a.m., course 315 degrees, +with Thring, Woodforde, and seven fresh horses. At fourteen miles came +across a splendid reach of water, about one hundred and fifty yards wide, +but how long I do not know, as we could not see the end of it. It is a +splendid sheet of water, and is certainly the gem of Sturt Plains. I have +decided at once on returning, and bringing the party up to it, as it must +be carefully examined, for it may be the source of the Camfield, or some +river that may lead me through. On approaching it I saw a large flock of +pelicans, which leads me to think that there may be a lake in its +vicinity. There are mussels and periwinkles in it, and, judging from the +shells on the banks, the natives must consume a large quantity. The +gum-trees round it are not very large. The first ten miles of that part +of the plain travelled over to-day is full of large deep holes and +cracks, black alluvial soil covered with grass, with young gum-trees +thicker as we approached the water. This I have named Newcastle Water, +after his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, Secretary for the Colonies. Duck, +native companion, white crane, and sacred ibis abound here. Returned to +bring the party up to-morrow. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 24th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8 a.m. for Newcastle Water; +arrived at noon. Camped. Sent Kekwick to north-east and Thring to west to +see the length of it; I have had the depth tried. It is about six feet +deep ten yards from the bank, and in the middle seventeen feet. I should +say it was permanent. Thring found it still the same at three miles west. +Kekwick returned after following it for four miles. At two miles there is +a break in it. At four miles it is more of a creek coming from +north-east. Gum-trees much larger. Woodforde succeeded in catching four +fish about ten inches long, something resembling the whiting. I had one +cooked for tea; the skin was as tough as a piece of leather, but the +inside was really good, as fine a fish as I have ever eaten. To-morrow I +shall follow the water to the west; its bed is limestone. Wind, +south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 17 degrees 36 minutes 40 +seconds. + +Saturday, 25th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.50 a.m. +and followed the water nine miles round. It still continued, but became a +chain of ponds. As I could see some rising ground north-north-east about +four miles distant, I camped the party and took Thring with me to see +what the country was before us. At four miles we found that the first +part of the rise was stony, but on the top it was sandy table-land, +covered with thick scrub. The view is obstructed to the east-north-east +to north by it; but to the north-west and west there is an appearance of +rising ground, thickly wooded, about twenty miles off. Wind, west. +Latitude, 17 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds. + +Sunday, 26th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. This morning we were +visited by seven natives, tall, powerfully-made fellows. At first they +seemed inclined for mischief, making all manner of gestures and shaking +their boomerangs, waddies, etc. We made friendly signs to them, inviting +them to come nearer; they gradually approached, and Kekwick and Lawrence +got quite close to them; in a short time they appeared to be quite +friendly. I felt alarmed for the safety of J. Woodforde (who had gone +down the water in search of ducks, and in the direction from which they +had come), and endeavoured to make them friends by giving them pieces of +handkerchiefs, etc. During the time we were talking with them I heard the +distant report of his gun; at the same time Thring and Masters returned +from collecting the horses that were missing. I told them to remain until +the natives were gone, as I wished to keep them as long as possible to +give Woodforde a chance of coming up before they left us; shortly +afterwards they went off apparently quite friendly. Sent Thring and Wall +to round up the horses which were close at hand, and while they were +doing so the natives again returned, running quite close up to the camp +and setting fire to the grass. It was now evident they meant mischief. I +think they must have seen or heard Woodforde, and have lit the grass in +order to engage our attention from him. I felt very much inclined to fire +upon them, but desisted, as I feared they would revenge themselves on him +in their retreat. They did very little injury by their fire, which we +succeeded in putting out. By signs I ordered them to be off, and after +much bother they left us, setting fire to the grass as they went along. I +now ordered Thring and Wall to go with all speed to protect Woodforde. In +about twenty minutes he came into the camp. After leaving us they had +attacked him, throwing several boomerangs and waddies at him; he had only +one barrel of his gun loaded with shot; they all spread out and +surrounded him, gradually approaching from all sides. One fellow got +within five yards of him, and was in the act of aiming his boomerang at +him. Seeing it was useless to withhold any longer, while the black was in +the act of throwing he gave him the contents of his gun in his face, and +made for the camp. In a short time Thring and Wall returned at full +speed; they had passed where he was, and hearing the report of his gun, +made for the place, overtook the blacks, gave chase and made them drop +the powder-flask and ducks (which Woodforde had laid down before firing +when they attacked him); knowing them to be his, they gave up the chase +to look for him, but seeing nothing of him, and two of the natives +supporting one apparently wounded, they returned to the camp, where they +saw him all safe, relating his adventure, his shot-belt still missing. I +sent Thring and him to look for it, and to bring up the missing horses +which they had seen. Wind variable. Cloudy. + +Monday, 27th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. Started at 8.10 a.m., +course 335 degrees. At 10.20 changed to north; at 1.20 p.m. changed to 90 +degrees; and at one mile found water; gave the horses some, and proceeded +north-north-east; at 3.40 changed to 90 degrees to some gums: at one mile +and a half camped. The gums turn out to be thick wood. I went +north-north-west this morning, with the expectation of meeting with +water, or rather a chain of ponds; at four miles, I could see nothing of +them; and, as we were getting into a very thick scrub of lancewood, I +changed to north; and at ten miles on that course, still seeing nothing +of them, I changed to east; at one mile came upon them, found water, and +followed them; their course now, 20 degrees; at one mile found another +pond; in a short time, lost the bed of them in a thick wooded plain. +Found a native path running nearly in my course; followed it, thinking it +would lead me to some other water, but in a few miles it became +invisible. I continued on the same course for nine miles, and found +myself on Sturt Plains, with belts of thick wood and scrub; to the north, +nothing visible but open plains; to north-east, apparently thick wood or +scrub; to north-west and west, apparently scrubby sand hills. The ponds +seem to drain this portion of the plains. Changed to east, to what seemed +to be large gum-trees, thinking there might be a creek; arriving there, I +found them to be stunted gums on the edge of the plain. There is no hope +of succeeding in this quarter. Camped without water. Wind, east. +Latitude, 17 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. + +Tuesday, 28th May, Sturt Plains, North. Fourteen of the horses missing +this morning before sunrise. From the highest tree nothing is to be seen +from east to north and north-west but immense open grassy plains, without +a tree on them; no hope of water. I must go back to the ponds and try +again to the westward. Did not find the horses until 9.30 a.m., and +started at 10. I observed very large flocks of pigeons coming in clouds +from the plains in every direction towards the ponds. Some time +afterwards we saw them coming back and flying away into the plains as far +as the eye can reach, apparently to feed. Arrived at the water at 1.30 +p.m. Wind, east-north-east. + +Wednesday, 29th May, Chain of Ponds. Started at 7.20 a.m. with Thring, +Woodforde, and Wall, and nine horses, to follow a native track, which is +leading to the westward. At 9.20 made the track; its course, +west-north-west. At twenty-eight miles camped without water. The track +led us into very thick wood and scrub, and at five miles became +invisible. I still continued on the same bearing through the scrub. We +have again met with the mulga--a little different from what we have seen +before, growing very straight, from thirty to forty feet high, the bark +stringy, the leaf much larger and thicker. Amongst it is the hedge-tree. +We had seven miles of it very dense, when we again met with an open +plain. At three miles entered another dense wood and scrub, like that +passed through in the morning. To-day's journey has been over plains of +grass, through forest and scrub, without water. In the last five miles we +passed through a little spinifex, and the soil is becoming sandy. Wind, +south. + +Thursday, 30th May, Sturt Plains. As I can see no hope of water, I will +leave Woodforde and Wall with the horses, take Thring with me, and +proceed ten miles, to see if there will be a change in that distance. +Went into a terrible thick wood and scrub for eleven miles and a half, +without the least sign of a change--the scrub, in fact, becoming more +dense; it is scarcely penetrable. I sent Thring up one of the tallest +trees. Nothing to be seen but a fearfully dense wood and scrub all round. +Again I am forced to retreat through want of water. The last five miles +of the eleven the soil is becoming very sandy, with spinifex and a little +grass. It is impossible to say in which way the country dips, for, in +forty-five miles travelled over, we have not seen the least sign of a +watershed, it is so level. Returned to where I left the others, followed +our tracks back, and at eleven miles camped. Horses nearly done up with +heavy travelling and the heat of the sun, which is excessive. It is very +vexing and dispiriting to be forced back with only a little more than one +hundred miles between Mr. Gregory's last camp on the Camfield and me. If +I could have found water near the end of this journey, I think I could +have forced the rest. It is very galling to be turned back after trying +so many times. Wind, east. + +Friday, 31st May, Sturt Plains. Not having sufficient tethers for all the +horses, we had to short hobble two, and tie their heads to their hobbles; +and, in the morning, they were gone. I suppose they must have broken +their hobbles or fastenings; they will most likely make on to our outward +tracks. I have sent Thring and Woodforde to follow them up, while Wall +and I, with the other horses, proceed on our way to the camp. In two +hours they made the tracks before us, and I then pushed on as hard as I +could get the horses to go; being very anxious about the safety of the +party--for, on the first day that I left them, at about seven miles, we +passed fourteen or fifteen natives going in the direction of their camp; +I also observed, this morning, that they had been running our tracks both +backwards and forwards. At three o'clock we arrived, and found all safe; +they have not been visited by them, although I observed the prints of +their feet in our tracks, a short distance from the camp. It was as much +as some of our horses could do to reach the camp. The day has been +excessively hot; wind from north-north-east, with clouds. Latitude, 17 +degrees 7 minutes. + +Saturday, 1st June, Chain of Ponds. I must rest the horses to-day and +to-morrow, for they look very miserable; our longitude is 133 degrees 40 +minutes 45 seconds. Before leaving the Ponds I shall try once more to the +westward--starting from a point three miles west of my first camp on +them. To try from this, for the Gulf of Carpentaria, I believe to be +hopeless, for the plain seems to be without end and without water. If I +could see the least sign of a hill, or hope of finding water, I would try +it; but there is none--if there is a passage it must be to the south of +this. Wind variable, with clouds. + +Sunday, 2nd June, Chain of Ponds. The day has again been very hot. Wind +variable. + +Monday, 3rd June, Chain of Ponds. Started back to the commencement of the +Chain of Ponds, and camped. During the day the sky has been overcast with +heavy clouds. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 4th June, Chain of Ponds. Last night one of the horses was +drowned in going down to drink at the water hole. He went into a boggy +place, got his hind foot fastened in his hobbles, from which he could not +extricate himself, and was drowned before we could save him. This is +another great loss, for he was a good pack-horse, and was one that I +intended taking on my next trip to the westward. At about 8 p.m. it began +to rain, and continued the whole night, coming from the east and +east-south-east. It still continues without any sign of a break. The +ground has become so soft that when walking we sink up to the ankle, and +the horses can scarcely move in it. At sundown there is no appearance of +a change. It has rained without intermission the whole of last night and +to-day. I do not know what effect this will have on my further progress, +for now it is impossible to travel. The horses in feeding are already +sinking above their knees. Wind and rain from east and east-south-east. + +Wednesday, 5th June, Chain of Ponds. There is a little sign of a break in +the clouds this morning. The rain has continued the whole night. Ground +very soft; it has become about the thickness of cream. The horses can +scarcely get about to feed. Sundown: It has been showery all day; sky +overcast; clouds and rain from same direction, south-east. In the +afternoon some natives made their appearance at about six hundred yards' +distance. As the rain had damped the cartridges I caused the rifles to be +fired off in that direction; and, as the bullets struck the trees close +to them they thought it best to retreat as fast as possible, yelling as +they went. + +Thursday, 6th June, Chain of Ponds. During the night it has been stormy, +with showers of rain, and is still the same this morning. Sundown: Still +stormy, with a few drops of rain. Wind, east. + +Friday, 7th June, Chain of Ponds. During the night the rain ceased, and +this morning is quite bright. Ground so soft that it is impossible to +travel. Latitude, 17 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds. Sent Thring some +miles to the west, to see in what state the country is, if fit for us to +proceed, and if he can see any water that I could move the party to, for +I do not like this place. If more rain falls it will lock us in all +together--neither do I like leaving the party with so many natives about. +At one o'clock he returned. The ground was so heavy that he had to turn +at five miles. He could see no water, but a number of native tracks going +to and coming from the west. I shall be obliged to leave the party here, +and on Monday try another trip to the west. If I find water I shall +return and take them to it. The day has been clear, but at sundown it is +again cloudy. Clouds from north-west. Wind from east. + +Saturday, 8th June, Chain of Ponds. This morning it has again cleared +off, and there is every appearance of fine weather. If it hold this way I +shall be able to travel on Monday. Sundown: A few clouds. Wind, +south-east. + +Sunday, 9th June, Chain of Ponds. The day has again been fine. Wind, +still south-east. + +Monday, 10th June, Chain of Ponds. Started at 7.55 a.m., course 275 +degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and Wall, nine horses, and fourteen +days' provisions. The first five miles were over a grassy plain, with +stunted gum and other trees. It was very soft, the horses sinking up to +their knees. We met with a little rain water at three miles, where the +soil became sandy; continued to be more so as we advanced, with lancewood +and other scrubs growing upon it. At fourteen miles gained the top of a +sand rise, which seems to be the termination of the sand hills that I +turned back from on my west course south of this. From here the country +seems to be a dense forest and scrub; no rising ground visible. Camped at +5 p.m., distance thirty-two miles. The whole journey from the sand hills +has been through a dense forest of scrubs of all kinds--hedge-tree, gum, +mulga, lancewood, etc. We have had great difficulty in forcing the horses +through it so far; they are very tired. It is the thickest scrub I have +yet been in. Ground very soft; heavy travelling, with the exception of +the last five miles, where little rain seems to have fallen. I am afraid +this will be another hopeless journey. I fully expected to have got water +to-night from the recent rains, but there is not a drop. The country is +such that the surface cannot retain it, were it to fall in much larger +quantities. I shall try a little further on to-morrow. I had a hole dug, +to see if any rain had fallen, and found that it had penetrated two feet +below the surface, below which it is quite dry. Wind, east. + +Tuesday, 11th June, Dense Forest and Scrub. Leaving Woodforde, Wall, and +the pack-horses, I took Thring with me, and proceeded on the same course +to see if I could get through the horrid forest and scrub, or meet with a +change of country, or find some water. At two miles we came upon some +grass again, which continued, and at another mile the forest became much +more open and splendidly grassed, which again revived my sinking hopes; +but alas, it only lasted about two miles, when we again entered the +forest thicker than ever. At eleven miles it became so dense that it was +nearly impenetrable. The horses would not face it; when forced, they made +a rush through, tearing everything we had on, and wounding us severely by +running against the dead timber (which was as sharp as a lancet) and +through the branches. I saw that it was hopeless to force through any +further. Not a drop of water have we seen, although the ground is quite +moist--the horses sinking above the fetlock. The soil is red and sandy; +the mulga from thirty to forty feet high and very straight; the bark has +a stringy appearance. There is a great quantity of it lying dead on the +ground, which causes travelling to become very difficult. I therefore +returned to where I left Woodforde and Wall, and came back ten miles on +yesterday's journey, and camped. This morning, about 5.30, we observed a +comet bearing 110 degrees; length of tail, 10 degrees, and 10 degrees +above the horizon. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 12th June, Western Dense Forest and Scrub. Proceeded to camp +and found all well. This is the third long journey by which I have tried +to make the Victoria in this latitude, but have been driven back every +time by the same description of country and the want of water. There is +not the least appearance of rising ground, or a change in the +country--nothing but the same dismal, dreary forest throughout; it may in +all probability continue to Mr. Gregory's last camp on the Camfield. My +farthest point has been within a hundred miles of it. I would have +proceeded further, but my horses are unable to do it; they look as if +they had done a month's excessive work, from their feet being so dry, the +forest so thick, and the want of water. Thus end my hopes of reaching the +Victoria in this latitude, which is a very great disappointment. I should +have dug wells if my party had been larger, and I had had the means of +conveying water to those engaged in sinking the wells. I think I could +accomplish it in that way; but by doing so, I should have to divide the +party into three, (one sinking, one carrying water, and one at the camp), +which would be too small a number where the natives appear to be so +hostile. I have not the least doubt that water could be obtained at a +moderate depth, near the end of my journeys, amongst the long thick +timber, which seems to be the lowest part of the country. I had no idea +of meeting with such an impediment as the plains and heavy scrub have +proved to be. For a telegraphic communication I should think that three +or four wells would overcome this difficulty and the want of water, and +the forest could be penetrated by cutting a line through and burning it. +In all probability there is water to be found nearer than this in the +Camfield, Mr. Gregory's last camp, somewhere about its sources, which +might be thirty miles nearer. Wind, south-east. Country drying up very +fast. + +Thursday, 13th June, Chain of Ponds. To-day I shall move the camp to the +easternmost part of Newcastle Water, and now that rain has come from the +east, I shall try if I can cross Sturt Plains, and endeavour to reach the +Gulf of Carpentaria. My provisions are now getting very short. We are +reduced to four pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per man per +week, which is beginning to show the effects of starvation upon some of +them; but I can leave nothing untried where there is the least shadow of +a chance of gaining the desired object. Started at 9.40 a.m. At three +miles and a half passed our first camp of Newcastle Water. At eight miles +and a half camped at the last water to the eastward. The ground is firmer +than I expected, travelling good. The large part of the water is reduced +two inches since 24th ultimo. The late rains seem to have no effect on +it. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 14th June, East End of Newcastle Water. Started with Thring, +Woodforde, and Wall, with one month's provisions and ten horses, at 7.45 +a.m.; course, 60 degrees. At two miles crossed our former tracks, on the +top of the sandy table land, and after leaving it we again got on the +open plains, black alluvial soil, covered with grass, with deep holes and +cracks into which the horses were continually falling on their noses, and +running the risk of breaking our necks. These plains have swallowed up +every drop of rain that has fallen. The extent of the plain is seven +miles. We then entered a thick wooded country, of the same description as +the western forest, being equally thick, if not thicker, and as difficult +to penetrate. This continued for thirteen miles, when we met with another +small plain about half a mile wide, but opening out wider to north-west +and south. Not a drop of water have we seen since leaving Newcastle +Water, a distance of about thirty miles, except a little rain water about +three miles east of it. The plains are quite dry, scarcely showing that +rain has fallen. Camped. The horses have had a hard day's work and are +very tired. I wish I could have found water for them to-night. Latitude, +17 degrees 26 minutes 20 seconds. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday 15th June, North-east Small Plains, Sturt Plains. Started at +7.30 a.m.; course, 60 degrees, through another ten miles of very thick +forest, the thickest we have yet seen. At eleven miles came again upon +the large open grassy plain, at the point where I turned on the 21st +ultimo. I expected to have found some rain water here, this being the +only place in all the plain I have seen that is likely to retain it. Sent +Thring and Woodforde in different directions, while I proceeded in +another, to see if we could find any, but not a drop could we see. It has +been all swallowed up by the ground, which is again dry and dusty. It +must take an immense quantity to saturate it, and leave any on the +surface; and if that were to be the case, the country would become so +soft it would be quite impassable. I am again forced to turn; it is quite +hopeless to attempt it any farther. It would be sacrificing our horses, +and, perhaps, our own lives, without the least prospect of attaining our +end. If I could see rising ground, however small, or a change in the +country to justify my risking everything, I would do so in a moment. I +only wish there was. I have tried my horses to their utmost. Even my old +horses that are inured to hardship are unable to be longer than three +days without water, owing to the heat of the sun, the dryness of the +feed, and the softness of the country. We saw a few cockatoos and +pigeons. There might be water within a short distance, but none can we +see or find; for on my course 20 degrees west of north I passed within +two miles of Newcastle Water, where the main camp is now, but could not +see it. It would require a long time to examine this country for water. +There are so many clumps of trees, and strips of scrub on the plain, +where water might be, that it would take upwards of twelve months to +examine them all. At sundown camped fifteen miles from the main camp. +Horses look very bad. It has been very heavy travelling, over rotten +ground, and tearing through thick wood and scrub, which has skinned our +legs from the knees to the ankles and caused no little pain. Wind, +variable. + +Sunday, 16th June, Sturt Plains East. Proceeded to the camp, where I +found all well. No natives had been near them. This is very disheartening +work. I shall proceed to the south, and try once more to round that +horrid thick western forest; it is now my only hope; if that fail I shall +have to return. I am doubtful of the water in Ashburton range, if no rain +has fallen there; those hills are the last of the rising ground within +range of vision, which ends in about latitude 17 degrees 14 minutes. From +south-south-east round the compass to south-south-west nothing but dense +forest and Sturt Plains. Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 17th June, Newcastle Water East. Returned to the Lawson and +camped. Little rain seemed to have fallen there. I kept a little to west +of my former tracks to see the nature of the large open plain. It is +completely matted with grass, having large deep holes and cracks, and is +as dry as if no rain had fallen for months. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 18th June, Lawson Creek. Proceeded to Hunter Creek. Tracks of +natives upon ours to Hawker Creek. Light winds, variable. + +Wednesday, 19th June, Hawker Creek. Although the water holes in this +creek are full from recent rains, the water is very hard, evidently +showing it must come from a spring in the hills. Proceeded to the Hunter +along the foot of the hills, and at nine miles crossed the large gum +creek, where I watered the horses on my north course; this I have named +Powell Creek, after J.W. Powell, Esquire, of Clare. At twenty miles +crossed another gum creek, which I have named Gleeson Creek, after E.B. +Gleeson, Esquire, J.P., of Clare. Camped on the Hunter. Between this and +Hawker Creek we crossed eleven gum creeks with water in them. The country +passed over is not so good, being close to the hills: it is scrubby, and +generally covered with spinifex. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 20th June, Hunter Creek. Three horses missing; could not be +found until too late to reach the other water to-night. Wind, calm. + +Friday, 21st June, Hunter Creek. Proceeded to the water under Mount +Primrose, over stony hills, the highest of which I have named Mount +Shillinglaw, after ---- Shillinglaw, Esquire, F.R.C.S., of Melbourne, who +kindly presented me with Flinders' Charts of North Australia. The gum +creek on which we are now camped I have named Carruthers Creek, after +John Carruthers, Esquire, of Adelaide. Calm. + +Saturday, 22nd June, Carruthers Creek. Proceeded to Tomkinson Creek, +where I left the two horses; I will there rest the horses a day, and have +those shod which I intend to take with me. The last two days have been +over very stony country, which has made some of the horses quite lame. I +am now running short of shoes. We can see nothing of the two horses about +our old camp. Light wind from north-east, with a few clouds. Very hot in +the middle of the day; evenings and mornings cold. + +Sunday, 23rd June, Tomkinson Creek. Sent Thring and Woodforde down the +creek, and Masters up into the open plain, to see if they could find the +horses on their tracks. In the afternoon they returned unsuccessful, +except Masters, who had seen their tracks when the ground was boggy. +Recent tracks of natives were also seen. If they have not been frightened +away, they will not be far off. I have instructed Sullivan to follow +their tracks, and try to find them during my absence. Wind, north-east, +with a few clouds. The sun is very hot in the middle of the day. + +Monday, 24th June, Tomkinson Creek. Started with Thring, Masters, and +Lawrence, and ten horses, with fourteen days' provisions, at 7.40 a.m.; +course, 270 degrees east. We crossed the plain and the creek several +times. At 12.20, fifteen miles, ascended a stony rise, and saw that the +creek emptied itself into an open grassy plain, about two miles north of +us. Proceeded on the same course over a gum plain covered with grass for +five miles. The country then became sandy soil, slightly undulating, with +ironstone, gravel, spinifex, gums, and occasionally a little scrub, which +continued throughout the day. Camped without water. Very little feed for +the horses, it being nearly all spinifex. Distance, twenty-eight miles. +Wind, west; a few clouds. + +Tuesday, 25th June, Spinifex and Gum Plain West. Started at 7.40 a.m. on +the same course, 270 degrees. Camped at twenty-seven miles. The country +travelled through to-day is bad--red sandy light soil, covered with +spinifex, slightly undulating, and having iron gravel upon it. Scarcely a +blade of grass to be seen. Some gum-trees, and a low scrub of different +sorts. I seem to have got to the south of the dense forest, but into a +poorer country. Not a drop of water or a watercourse have we seen since +we left Tomkinson Creek. We have crossed two or three low rises of +ironstone gravel. Not having the dense forest to tear through has induced +me to go on all day in the hope of meeting with a change, but at the end +of the day there seems as little likelihood as when we first came upon +it, and it may continue to the river. I am again forced to return +disappointed. There is no hope of making the river now; it must be done +from Newcastle Water with wells. I wish that I had twelve months' +provisions and convenience for carrying water, I should then be enabled +to do it. Wind, east. + +Wednesday, 26th June, Spinifex and Gum Plain. Started at 7 a.m. back +towards Tomkinson Creek. At dusk found some water on the small plain into +which the creek empties itself. Camped. Distance travelled to-day, forty +miles. One of the horses completely done up. I am fortunate in finding +this water, for another night without it and I should have lost some of +them. I am also glad we had a cool day--only two hours' heat. The horses +have travelled one hundred miles without water, and the country being +sandy, made it very heavy walking for them. Wind, east. + +Thursday, 27th June, Tomkinson Creek. Started for the camp, and arrived +at noon. Sullivan had gone after the horses, and lost himself for three +days and two nights. Not making his appearance the first night, Kekwick +sent Woodforde in search of him from south-east to north. Not returning +the second night, Kekwick and Woodforde went out in another direction to +try if they could cut his tracks, but were again unsuccessful. At about 3 +a.m. he came into the camp perfectly bewildered, and did not seem to +recognise anyone. From what we can learn from him he must have gone to +the south instead of the east, where the tracks of the two horses were +seen. On the first night he came close to the camp--saw the other horses +feeding, but could not find them. He can give no account of where he went +the next day and night; on the third day he cut my outward tracks to the +west, and the horse brought him to the camp. I observed his horse's +tracks upon ours this morning, about ten miles down the creek, and could +not imagine how they came there. Woodforde found the two horses he went +in search of within three miles of the camp--they had not left the creek. +The cream-coloured one had improved very much; but Reformer still looks +miserable--I think he must be ill. Wind, north, with a few clouds coming +from the same direction. + +Friday, 28th June, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses and preparing for +another start. I shall try once more to make the Gulf of Carpentaria from +this. There may be a chance of my being able to round Sturt Plains to the +east or north-east. Wind, varying from south-east to north. + +Saturday, 29th June, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses, etc. Wind, +south-east. Clouds all gone. + +Sunday, 30th June, Tomkinson Creek. Wind, north-east. + +Monday, 1st July, Tomkinson Creek. Started at 8.10 a.m., course 54 +degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and Masters. At 11.20 (eleven miles), +top of a high hill, which I named Mount Hawker, after the Honourable +George C. Hawker, Speaker of the House of Assembly, S.A. At 12.45, four +miles, struck a large creek; its course a little east of north, which I +have named McKinlay Creek, after John McKinlay, Esquire. The first part +of the journey was over stony undulations, gradually rising until we +reached the top of Mount Hawker, the view from which was not very +extensive on our course, being intercepted by stony spurs of the range +nearly the same height, about eight hundred feet, and very rocky and +precipitous. They are composed of sandstone, quartz, iron, limestone, and +hard white flinty rocks. The sandstone predominates. We descended with +great difficulty, crossed McKinlay Creek, and at five miles ascended +another high hill, which I have named Mount Hall, after the Honourable +George Hall, M.L.C. From this our view is most extensive, over a complete +sea of white grassy plains. At about fifteen or twenty miles south-east +are the terminations of other spurs of this range; beyond them nothing is +visible on the horizon but white grassy plains. To the east and +north-east the same. To the north apparently a strip of dense scrub and +forest, which seems to end about north-east, beyond which, in the far +distance, we can see the large grassy plain I turned back from on the +21st of May and 15th of June. No rising ground visible except the hills +of Ashburton range to north-west and south-east. Descended towards the +plains over stony rises, with gum-tree, lancewood, and other scrub and +spinifex. At five miles reached the plain. It is of the same description +as the other parts I have been over. No appearance of water. It is +hopeless to proceed further; it will only be rendering my return more +difficult, by reducing the strength of my horses, without the slightest +hope of success. All hope of gaining the Gulf without wells is now gone. +I have therefore turned back to a small plain (four miles), searched +round it, and in one of the small creeks found a little rain water, at +which I have camped. Wind, south. + +Tuesday, 2nd July, Loveday Creek. This creek I have named Loveday Creek, +after R.J. Loveday, Esquire, Lithographer to the South Australian +Government. Returned towards the camp. On reaching McKinlay Creek I was +informed by Woodforde that Masters had remained behind, about six miles +back, and had not yet come up. This is against my strict orders which are +that no one shall leave the party without informing me, that I may halt +and wait for them. I have sent Thring back to one of the hills to fire +off a gun, and see if he is to be seen, as I have left my outward tracks +to avoid crossing Mount Hall--and the tracks are very difficult to be +seen over such stony country. I am afraid that he is lost. In an hour and +a half, Thring returned; he can see nothing of him. He cut our former +tracks, but can see nothing of his on them. My conjectures, I fear, are +too true. If he has missed the tracks, it is a thousand chances to one if +he is ever found again. To track a single horse is impossible. I +proceeded towards Mount Hawker, and camped on my outward tracks, at a +remarkable gorge that we had come through. Sent Thring back to the top of +Mount Hall to raise a smoke, to remain there some time, and see if he +comes up; if not, he is to proceed to our last night's camp, there to +remain all night, in case he should go there--while I and Woodforde +raised another smoke on top of Mount Hawker. A little after 2 p.m. Thring +returned with him. He found him on a hill near Mount Hall, looking for +the tracks. He was quite bewildered, and in a great state of excitement. +I am most thankful that he is found. The account that he gives is, that +his horse slipped the reins out of his hand, and that he was unable to +catch him for some time, and when he did so, he was unable to find our +tracks, or to track his own horse back, and he became quite confused. He +seems to be most thankful for his narrow escape. As it is too late to +reach the camp, I shall remain here to-night. Wind, west. + +Wednesday, 3rd July, Under Mount Hawker. Proceeded to the camp on the +Tomkinson. Found all right, with the exception of one of the horses +(Reformer), which cannot be found. He is one of the two that I left here +formerly, and was looking so ill when I found him. He was last seen on +Monday night, when he looked miserable. I have sent three men in search +of him. Wind, variable. + +Thursday, 4th July, The Tomkinson. Started at 8.20 a.m., course 300 +degrees, with Woodforde, Thring, and Masters, ten horses, and a month's +provisions, to try once more to make the Victoria. Between my first and +last attempts, I may succeed. I am very unwilling to return without +trying all that is in my power. At three miles we left the plains, and +proceeded over stony rises for two miles. The country then became sandy, +with gum, spinifex, and lancewood scrub, not difficult to get through. +There is no grass. At twenty-five miles came to a little, and, as I am +not sure of coming upon any more soon, I camped. We have seen no water +since leaving the creek. Latitude, 18 degrees 25 minutes 40 seconds. +Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 5th July, Spinifex and Gum Plains. Started at 7.50 a.m., course +360 degrees, to find water. At 9.10 (five miles), struck a creek with +water; followed it down, course 285 degrees, and at eight miles camped on +the last water. The banks in places have good feed upon them, but there +is a great deal of spinifex and scrub. The creek is getting narrower, +and, as the horses had but little to eat last night, I shall give them +the remainder of the day here, for there is no telling when they will get +another good feed. Day exceedingly hot, horses covered with sweat. This I +have named Burke Creek, after my brother explorer, Richard O'Hara Burke, +Esquire, of Melbourne. On camping I saw a remarkable bird fly up; I sent +Woodforde to try and shoot him, which he did. It was of a dark-brown +colour, and spotted like the landrail; the tail feathers were nine in +number, and twelve inches long. I have had it skinned, and will endeavour +to take it to Adelaide. Thring, Woodforde, and Masters cooked the body, +and ate it. They had scarcely finished, when, in a moment, they were +seized with violent vomiting, but in a few minutes they were all right +again. Wind, calm. Latitude, 18 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds. + +Saturday, 6th July, Burke Creek. Started at 7.45 a.m., same course, to +follow the creek (285 degrees). At three miles it was lost in a grassy +gum plain; changed to 300 degrees. On this course the plain continued for +three miles; it then became sandy soil, with spinifex, gums, and scrub. +Crossed a low sand hill at fourteen miles; descended into another low +grassy plain subject to inundation, which, I suppose, receives Hunter +Creek. It continued for two miles, at the end of which we again ascended +a sandy rise, on the top of which the country became a sandy table land, +and continued so the rest of the day's journey. Camped without water, and +with very little grass. The table land was spinifex, gums, and scrub, in +some places very difficult to get through. Distance, thirty miles. Wind, +south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 7 minutes 5 seconds. At 7 p.m. I +observed the comet, 5 degrees above the horizon, bearing 15 degrees west +of north, the nucleus more hazy, and the tail much longer. Calm. + +Sunday, 7th July, West Sandy Table Land. Started at 8 a.m. on the same +course. At 3 p.m. we got into dense scrub, and, as I could see some +distance on before, being on one of the slight undulations, I felt there +was not the slightest hope of obtaining water; there was no change, no +rising ground visible. It would be hopeless to continue such sandy +country, as it can never hold water on the surface. We dug five feet, in +one of the small plains, but came to the clay without finding water, or +even moisture. There is not a mouthful of grass for the horses to eat; +the whole of the journey, with the exception of the small grassy plains, +is spinifex, gums, and scrub. I shall have to retreat to the last plain +we passed through to get feed for the horses, which are looking very bad. +The travelling has been heavy tearing through thick scrub, which in some +places has been burned: this makes it very rough for them. I must now +give up all hope of reaching the Victoria, and am unwillingly forced to +return, my horses being nearly worn out. Wind, variable. Distance, +twenty-five miles. + +Monday, 8th July, Small Grass Plain in Scrub. Started at break of day and +continued until 4.30 p.m. Meeting with a little grass, camped; some of +the horses unable to go further. Wind, south. + +Tuesday, 9th July, Sandy Table Land. Started at sunrise and arrived at +Burke Creek. At 11 a.m. turned the horses out to feed for two hours, and +proceeded up the creek to where I first struck it. Camped. At a little +more than a mile down the creek from here, there is a course of concrete +ironstone running across it, which forms a large pond of water nearly a +mile in length, apparently deep and permanent. Wind, west. + +Wednesday, 10th July, Burke Creek. Shortly after sunrise proceeded toward +the main camp, and arrived there at 3 p.m. Found all well. The natives +have been about. They attacked Wall while in search of the missing horse; +he and his horse narrowly escaped being hit by their boomerangs. The +missing horse cannot be found. I suppose that he has crept into some +bushes and died; for, the night before he was missed, he left the other +horses and came to the camp fire; he appeared to be very stupid, and for +some time they could not get him away; when they did so, he went off +reeling. Wind, south-west. + +Thursday, 11th July, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses, and repairing +saddles and bags to carry our provisions back. We have now run out of +everything for that purpose, and are obliged to make all sorts of shifts. +The two tarpaulins that I brought from Mr. Chambers's station for mending +the bags, are all used up some time ago, and nearly all the spare bags; +the sewing-twine has been used long since, and we are obliged to make +some from old bags. We are all nearly naked, the scrub has been so severe +on our clothes; one can scarcely tell the original colour of a single +garment, everything is so patched. Our boots are also gone. It is with +great reluctance that I am forced to return without a further trial. I +should like to go back, and try from Newcastle Water, but my provisions +will not allow me. I started with thirty weeks' supply at seven pounds of +flour per week, and have now been out twenty-six, and it will take me ten +weeks before I can reach the first station. The men are also failing, and +showing the effects of short rations. I only wish I had sufficient to +carry me over until the rain will fall in next March. I think I should be +able to make both the Victoria and the Gulf. I had no idea when starting +that the hills would terminate so soon in such extensive level country, +without water, or I should have tried to make the river, and see what the +country was, when I first saw the rising grounds from Mount Primrose, +which are the sand and iron undulations passed over on my southernmost +western journey. Before I went to Newcastle Water they completely +deceived me; for from the top of the mount they had the appearance of a +high range, which I was glad to see, thinking that if the range I was +then following up should cease, or if I could not find a way into the +river further north, I would be sure to get in by that distant range, +which caused me to leave the Newcastle Water country sooner than I should +otherwise have done; and now I have not provisions to take me back again. +From what I have seen of the country to the west and south of Newcastle +Water, I am of opinion that it would be no use trying again to make the +river, for I believe no water can be obtained by sinking. To the west and +north-west of Newcastle Water the country is apparently lower, and I +think that water could be obtained at a moderate depth. It is the +shortest distance between the waters; but the greatest difficulty would +be in getting through the dense forest and scrub, but that, I should +think, could be overcome. It certainly is a great disappointment to me +not to be able to get through, but I believe I have left nothing untried +that has been in my power. I have tried to make the Gulf and river, both +before rain fell, and immediately after it had fallen; but the results +were the same, UNSUCCESSFUL. Even after the rain I could not get a step +further than before it. I shall commence my homeward journey to-morrow +morning. Wind, south. The horses have had a severe trial from the long +journeys they have made, and the great hardships and privations they have +undergone. On my last journey they were one hundred and six hours without +water. + +On Friday, July 12th, Mr. Stuart quitted Tomkinson Creek to return to +Adelaide, and on the following Friday reached Ann Creek on the north side +of the Murchison range. On the 30th, the party proceeded across the +Centre, and camped south-west of it, on the Hanson. The nights now became +very cold, and there was usually white frost on the grass, and ice in the +buckets every morning. On August 6th they camped under Brinkley Bluff, +and remained there until the 8th. The Hamilton was reached on the 23rd, +and here the natives again showed some hostility, contenting themselves, +however, with yelling and howling, and endeavouring to set fire to the +grass, in which they were happily unsuccessful. On Saturday, August 31st, +they arrived at Mr. Levi's station, where all of them "were overjoyed at +once more seeing the face of a white man." They were received with great +kindness and attention. After remaining there three days they proceeded +by way of Louden Spa, William Springs, Paisley Ponds, and Hamilton +Springs to Chambers Creek, where they arrived on September 7th and +remained until the 10th. + +The last entry in Mr. Stuart's journal is as follows: + +Sunday, 15th September, Moolooloo. I shall leave to-morrow for Port +Augusta, and proceed by steamer for Adelaide, leaving the party to be +brought into town by Mr. Kekwick. + +I cannot close my Journal without expressing my warmest thanks to my +second in command, and my other companions; they have been brave, and +have vied with each other in performing their duties in such a manner as +to make me at all times feel confident that my orders were carried out to +the best of their ability, and to my entire satisfaction; and I also beg +to tender my best thanks to the promoters (Messrs. Chambers and Finke) +and the Government, for the handsome manner I was fitted out. + +JOHN McDOUALL STUART, + +Leader of the Expedition. + + +JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF +AUSTRALIA. FROM DECEMBER, 1861, TO DECEMBER, 1862. + +Mr. Stuart made his public entry into Adelaide on Monday, 23rd September, +and reported himself to the authorities. Almost at the same time the +Victorian Government obtained their first traces of the survivors of the +ill-fated expedition under Burke and Wills.* (* The news of their death +reached Melbourne on November 2nd.) The South Australian Government had +such confidence in Mr. Stuart that, on his expressing his readiness to +make another attempt to cross the continent, they at once closed with his +offer, and in less than a month (on October 21st) the new expedition +started from Adelaide to proceed to Chambers Creek, and get everything in +order there for a final start. Mr. Stuart accompanied them for a few +miles to see that everything went on well, when, one of the horses +becoming restive, he advanced with the intention of cutting the rope +which was choking the animal; the horse reared and struck him on the +temple with its fore foot, knocking him down and rendering him +insensible. The brute then sprang forward and placed one of his hind feet +on Mr. Stuart's right hand, and, rearing again, dislocated two joints of +his first finger, tearing the flesh and nail from it, and injuring the +bone to such an extent that amputation of the finger was at first thought +unavoidable. By careful treatment, however, it was unnecessary to resort +to such a course, and in five weeks the leader was able to start to +overtake his party, some of whom were to remain at Moolooloo until he +joined them. + +In no way discouraged either by his own unlucky accident and previous +want of success, or by the melancholy end of his brother explorers, Burke +and Wills, Mr. Stuart arrived at Moolooloo on Friday, December 20th, and +at Finniss Springs on the 29th. The names of the party were as follows: + +John McDouall Stuart, Leader of the Expedition. +William Kekwick, Second Officer. +F.W. Thring, Third Officer. +W.P. Auld, Assistant. +Stephen King. +John Billiatt. +James Frew. +Heath Nash. +John McGorrerey, Shoeing Smith. +J.W. Waterhouse, Naturalist to the Expedition. + +Besides these, there were at starting, Woodforde and Jeffries; but at +Finniss Springs, the latter struck one of his companions, and, on being +called to account by his leader, refused to go any further. As to the +former, when quitting Mr. Levi's station on January 21st, it was +arranged, in order to lighten the weak horses, that the great-coats of +the party should be left, but Woodforde objected to this, and said he +would not go unless he had his great-coat with him. Mr. Stuart had very +properly decided not to take any man who refused to obey orders, and he +therefore started without him. The next day Woodforde rejoined the party +near Milne Springs, but did not accompany them many days longer; for on +February 3rd, shortly after starting, he asked McGorrerey to hold his gun +while he returned to get something he had left behind at the previous +night's camp. About an hour afterwards, McGorrerey discovered a piece of +folded-up paper on the nipple of the gun, and on examination this proved +to be an insolent note, addressed to his leader, stating that he had gone +back, taking with him a horse, saddle, bridle, tether-rope, and sundry +other things not belonging to him. Mr. Stuart had been much dissatisfied +with his conduct for some days, and had made up his mind to send him +back, believing that he was doing everything in his power to discourage +the party, and bring his leader's authority into contempt. + +At Marchant Springs, where they arrived on February 15th, they began to +experience annoyance from the natives. On the 17th, as Auld was +approaching the water-hole, a native who was there called to some others +who were posted in trees, and shortly afterwards a great cloud of smoke +was seen to windward, coming towards the camp. It was evidently their +intention to attack the exploring party under cover of the smoke, "but +Thring, while looking for the horses, came suddenly on three of them +concealed behind a bush, armed with spears and boomerangs; he did not +perceive them until within twelve yards of them. They immediately jumped +up, and one of them threw a boomerang at him, which fortunately missed +both him and his horse. He was obliged to use his revolver in self +defence," but with what result Mr. Stuart does not state. + +The excessive heat of the weather now proved a great hindrance to the +expedition. They had already lost so many horses that a large part of +their provisions, etc. had to be abandoned on various occasions. On +February 23rd, Mr. Stuart writes: + +"Before reaching this place (the Hugh) five other horses gave in, and +were unable to proceed further. I cannot understand the cause of the +horses knocking up so much; every one of them has fallen off the last +week. Whether it is the excessive heat or the brackish water of the +Finke, I am unable to say. Last night I tried some citric acid in the +water of the Finke, and it caused it to effervesce, showing that the +water contained soda." It was afterwards ascertained that the horses were +suffering from worms, which may partially account for their failing +strength. + +After leaving the Hugh, on February 25th, they were again annoyed by the +natives. When about half-way through the gorge, they "set fire to the +grass and dry wood across the creek, which caused a dense smoke to blow +in our faces. I had the party prepared for an attack. After passing +through the smoke and fire, three natives made their appearance about +twenty-five yards off, on the hill side, armed with spears and shields, +and bidding us defiance by placing the spears in the womeras, and yelling +out at the highest pitch of their voices. I ordered Auld to dismount and +fire a shot a little distance on one side of them, to let them know what +distance our weapons carried. The ball struck the rock pointed out to him +to aim at, and stopped their yelling, but seemed to have no other effect. +I again ordered him to fire at the rock on which the middle one of the +three was standing; the shot was a good one, for the ball struck the +desired spot, and immediately had the effect of sending them all off at +full speed." + +Again, on March 5th, while crossing the plains under Mount Hay, they came +suddenly on three natives armed with long spears and shields, who ran off +into the scrub. A short distance further, while watering the horses at +some rain water, these three natives returned, accompanied by four +others, and made signs of hostility, by yelling and shaking their spears, +and performing other threatening antics while widely separating +themselves in a half-circle. Mr. Stuart says: "I had the party prepared +to receive an attack; but when they saw us stationary they approached no +nearer. I ordered some of the party to fire close to them, to show them +we could injure them at a long distance, if they continued to annoy us, +but they did not seem at all frightened at the report of the rifles nor +the whizzing of the balls near to them, since they still remained in a +threatening attitude. With the aid of a telescope we could perceive a +number of others concealed in the belt of scrub. They all seemed fine +muscular men. There was one tall fellow in particular with a large shield +and a very long spear (upwards of twelve feet), which he seemed very +anxious to use if he could have got within distance. We crossed the +creek, and had proceeded a short distance across the plain, when they +again came running towards us, apparently determined to attack; they were +received with a discharge of rifles, which caused them to retire and keep +at a respectful distance. Having already wasted too much time with them, +I proceeded over the plain, keeping a sharp look-out; should they +threaten us again, I shall allow them to come close, and make an example +of them. It is evident their designs are hostile. Before entering the +scrub we could see no signs of them following. About sundown, arrived at +Mount Harris without further annoyance." + +A week later (on March 12th) the Centre was passed; and on the 17th, +while going from Woodforde Creek through the bad country towards the +Bonney, Thring met with an awkward accident, which his leader thus +describes: "Being anxious to keep my old tracks through the scrub, as it +does not wear the saddle-bags so much as breaking through a new line, I +missed them about two miles after starting, in consequence of the +earliness and cloudiness of the morning. I sent Thring in search of them, +and he, on finding them a short distance off, fired his revolver to let +us know that the tracks were found. The young horse he was riding stood +the first report very well. I, not hearing the report, was moving on, +which caused him to fire again, whereupon his horse backed and threw him +with violence to the ground on his chest. He feels his chest is much hurt +by the fall. The horse then returned on the tracks at full gallop," and +was not recovered until shortly before sundown. + +The party camped at Attack Creek on Friday, March 28th, and at Tomkinson +Creek on the 31st. On April 3rd, while crossing the Gleeson, Kekwick's +horse fell back with him in ascending the bank, and broke the stock of +his gun, but he himself escaped unhurt. On Saturday, April 5th, they +camped at the east end of Newcastle Water, and the following day, "at +about 9 o'clock a.m. Kekwick, in endeavouring to shoot some ducks, went +towards some native smoke, and was met by two natives, who ran away. In +an hour afterwards, five natives came within a hundred yards of the camp, +and seemed anxious to come up to it, but were not permitted. Two hours +afterwards we were again visited by fifteen more, to some of whom a +present was made of some looking-glasses and handkerchiefs; at the same +time they were given to understand that they must not approach nearer to +the camp, and signs were made to them to return to their own camp, which +they shortly did. In the afternoon we were again visited by nineteen of +them, who approached within a hundred yards of the camp, when they all +sat down and had a good stare at us, remaining a long time without +showing any inclination to go. At length some of them started the horses +which were feeding near the water, and made them gallop towards the camp. +This so frightened the natives that they all ran away, and we were not +troubled with them for the rest of the evening." + +The next day the camp was moved to the north end of Newcastle Water, +where they remained for a week resting horses and repairing bags, +saddles, etc. The Journal then continues as follows: + +Monday, 14th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in +charge of the party, started with Thring and Frew at 7.15 a.m., on a +northerly course, in search of water; and at six miles, on the edge of +the open plains, found some rainwater, sufficient for a few days. +Proceeded across the plain on the same course; but at three miles saw +something like a watercourse, and changed my course to 20 degrees, to see +what it was. At two miles I struck a dry course running south-west. +Followed it up towards the small rise without finding any water. Three +miles further on the same course I ascended a low stony rise, from which +I could see nothing but a thick forest of tall mulga and gums. I changed +to a northerly course, and, at 4.20 p.m., camped in a forest without +water. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 15th April, Sturt Plains, Forest. Proceeded on a course of 250 +degrees, and at five miles again struck the open plains, and changed to +180 degrees. At one mile I found a fine water hole three feet deep and +about forty feet in diameter, the edge of which was surrounded with +conglomerate ironstone rock; watered the horses, and proceeded on a +southerly course, through grassy plains with stunted gum-trees, to the +first water I found yesterday, and camped. The plains and forest are of +the same description as I have already given, only that the plains have +not quite so many holes in them, and the forest in many places is covered +with ironstone gravel. I shall try a course to the north of west +to-morrow, to see if I can find water. Wind variable. + +Wednesday, 16th April, Frew's Water Hole, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.45 +a.m., on a course of 302 degrees, keeping along the edge of the open +plain. I have made many twistings and turnings, but my general course is +north-west for ten miles. Seeing a small rise on the open plain, a little +to the north of west, I changed to 275 degrees; and at two miles came on +some fine ponds of water about one mile and a half long, twenty feet +broad, and three feet and a half deep. I examined them on both sides, to +see if they would do for a permanent camp for the party as it is a point +nearer; and I think I may depend on the water lasting two months without +any more rain. I shall camp here to-night, and try another day to-morrow +to the westward, and endeavour to make the Victoria, for I can see but +little chance of making the Adelaide. By my journal of the 14th, +everything is quite dry and parched up; no rain seems to have fallen +there for a long time. The last two days have been excessively hot. The +further to the west the hotter I find it. The natives seem to be +numerous, for their smoke in the scrub is to be seen in every direction. +I name these ponds after John Howell, Esquire, of Adelaide. + +Thursday, 17th April, Howell Ponds. Started at 7 a.m., on a bearing 10 +degrees north of west. At twelve miles crossed the open plains, and +entered a thick forest of gums and other trees and shrubs. Seeing that +there is no chance of finding water to-day, returned to the ponds. The +open plains seem to tend more to the north-west; I shall examine them +when I bring the party up to the ponds. Distance, fifteen miles. Wind, +south-east. + +Friday, 18th April, Howell Ponds. Started for the camp on the Newcastle +Water. On my arrival, I found the party all right, but very anxious about +me, as I had been absent longer than I intended. No natives had been near +them during my absence at this time; smoke was seen all around. Weather +hot during the day, but cold at night and in the morning. Wind, +south-east. + +Saturday, 19th April, North End of Newcastle Water. I shall remain here +till Monday, in order to take some lunar observations, as I am not quite +certain that my longitude is correct. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 20th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Wind from the east; +blowing strongly during the day, but it dropped a little before sundown, +allowing the mosquitoes to annoy us very much. + +Monday, 21st April, North End of Newcastle Water. Some of the horses +having strayed some distance made it 10 o'clock a.m. before I could get a +start. Proceeded through six miles of forest and scrub to the water that +I found on the 14th instant; from thence I changed to 301 degrees 30 +minutes for nine miles, and then to 275 degrees, and at two miles camped +at the ponds I had discovered on the 16th. Native smoke all around us. +The day has been very hot, and the flies a perfect nuisance. Wind, +south-east. + +Tuesday, 22nd April, Howell Ponds. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the +north-west in search of water. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 23rd April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, I started with Thring and Frew at 8.5 a.m., on a course of 284 +degrees. At 9.55 (seven miles) changed to 320 degrees. At 11.20 (four +miles and a half) crossed the open plain, changing to 40 degrees to avoid +the scrub. At one mile and a half changed to west. At one mile changed to +north-west. At 2.20 (five miles) changed to 45 degrees. At 3 o'clock (two +miles) changed to north. At 3.25 one mile and a half changed to +north-west. At 3.45 camped without water. I have skirted the border of +the forest land in the hope of finding water, but am disappointed. I have +not seen a drop since I started. The plains are covered with beautiful +grass, two or three feet high. There are a great many different kinds of +birds about, and native smoke all round. I have searched every place +where I thought there was the least chance of finding water, but without +success. The day has been exceedingly hot. With such hot weather as this +I dare not attempt to make the Victoria. The horses could not stand a +hundred and forty miles without water. Those I have had with me to-day +seem to have suffered enough, and would not stand another two days +without. I must therefore return to the camp to-morrow. Wind, calm. + +Thursday, 24th April, Sturt Plains. Returned to the camp and found all +right. The day has been excessively hot. We have seen nothing new during +the journey--the same open plains, with forest between. + +Friday, 25th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, started at 8.20 a.m., with Thring and Frew and fresh horses, on a +northerly course, in hopes of better success in that direction: course +360 degrees for twenty-two miles; grassy plains, covered in many places +with stunted gums, and a new tree with a small green leaf. After that, we +entered again a thick forest, and scrub almost impassable. At +twenty-eight miles, seeing no prospect of getting through it, I returned +two miles to a small open space, where I could tether the horses. I have +not seen a drop of water this day's journey. The forest is so very thick, +and so many twistings and turnings are required to pass through it, that, +although I travelled thirty miles, I don't believe I made more than +fifteen miles in a straight line. The day again exceedingly hot, with a +few clouds. A few birds were seen during this day's journey, but no +pigeons, which are the only sign we have now of being near water. Wind +variable. + +Saturday, 26th April, Dense Forest. Returned to the camp. The horses felt +the heat and the want of water very much. In the forest the heat was +almost suffocating. I hope it will rain soon and cool the ground and +replenish the ponds, which are drying up fast. There have been a few +clouds during the day, but after sundown they all cleared away. Wind, +south-east. + +Sunday, 27th April, Howell Ponds. A few clouds have again made their +appearance, but still no rain. There has not fallen a drop of rain since +I left the Woodforde, which was on the 9th of March. Wind, south-east. +Latitude, 17 degrees 5 minutes 16 seconds. + +Monday, 28th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, started with Thring and King, on a course of 338 degrees, to try +and find an opening in the dense forest and scrub, as well as water. At +ten miles we crossed the open plain, with stunted gum-trees and long +grass. At this point we met with a small ironstone rise, about twenty +feet in height. On ascending I was again disappointed in finding before +me a dense forest and scrub. Proceeding in our course, it became thicker +than any which I had ever encountered before, and was almost impassable. +Still continued, and for a short distance in some places it became more +open. A little before sundown I camped on the edge of a stunted gum-tree +plain. There are a few slate-coloured cockatoos and other birds, which +lead me to hope that, in the morning, I may drop across some water. Wind +variable, with a few clouds during the day. + +Tuesday, 29th April, Sturt Plains. Started on an easterly course, +following the flight of the birds; but at five miles crossed the open gum +plain, and again encountered the thick forest. Examined every place I +could see or think of where water was likely to be found, but was again +disappointed--not a drop was to be seen. Changed my course, so as to keep +on the plain; at four miles again crossed, and again met the dense +forest, but still no water. Changed to south-east, and at ten miles found +ourselves on a large stunted-gum plain. Changed to a little east of +south, and arrived at the camp without seeing a drop of water. Wind +variable, with heavy clouds from the east. + +Wednesday, 30th April, Howell Ponds. I feel so unwell to-day that I am +unable to go out, besides I shall require my compass case and other +things mended; they got torn to pieces in the last journey by the forest +and the scrub. Yesterday's clouds are all gone, and have left us no rain. +Another hot day. Wind, east. + +Thursday, 1st May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, started with King and Thring to the water hole that I discovered +on the 15th ultimo; arrived in the afternoon and camped. This water hole +I have named Frew's Water Hole, in token of my approbation of his care +of, and attention to, the horses. This waterhole is about twenty feet +below the plain, surrounded by a conglomerate ironstone rock. Since my +last visit it is only reduced two inches, and is still a large body of +clear water from the drainage of the adjacent country; it will last much +longer than I anticipated. I shall use my best endeavours to-morrow to +find an opening in the thick scrub from north to north-west. The course +of the forest seems to run a little west of north, and I am afraid the +open plains are surrounded by it; however, I shall try to get through it +if I possibly can. Wind, south-east. Day excessively hot. + +Friday, 2nd May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at half-past seven o'clock +a.m. Course, 335 degrees. At ten miles, a dense forest and scrub. Changed +to 10 degrees east of north. At half a mile struck a water-shed, and +followed it north for two miles. Found a little rainwater in it, and at +two miles further arrived at its source. At three miles further on the +same course changed to 30 degrees east of north. At three miles and a +half again changed to 320 degrees, and at about a mile and a half struck +some fine ponds of water. At two miles further, arrived at what seemed to +be the last water, a small shallow pond. Examined around the plain to try +and find others, but without success. A little before sundown, returned +to the last water and camped. The first part of the day's journey was +over a stunted-gum plain, covered with grass. At ten miles we again met +with thick forest and scrub. I then changed my course to get out of it, +and struck the small water-shed running to the east of south. Following +it generally for two miles on a northerly course, we met with a little +rain water. Continued the same course through a thick forest and scrub +for three miles and a half to get through it if possible. At this point +it becomes denser than ever. Sent Thring to climb to the top of a tree, +from which he saw apparently a change in one of the low scrubby rises, +which appeared to be not so thickly covered with scrub as the others. I +directed my course to it, 30 degrees east of north, to examine it. I +observe that there is some sandstone in the low scrubby rises, which +leads me to hope that I may not be far from a change of country. On this +last course we travelled three miles, through a dense thicket of +hedge-tree, when I observed some large gum-trees bearing 320 degrees, and +decided to examine them before leaving the rise. As I approached nearer +to it I again sent Thring to climb a tree to see if there was any change. +He could see nothing but the same description of forest and scrub. The +change that he saw from the other tree was the shade of the sun on the +lower mulga bushes, which caused him to suppose that it was more open +country. Not seeing any opening in that direction, I changed to the +gum-trees. At a mile and a half was delighted at the sight of a chain of +fine water holes; their course north-west to south-east, the flow +apparently to south-east. I followed one pond, which was about half a +mile long and appeared to be deep. A number of smaller ones succeeded. +They then ceased, and I crossed a small plain, which shows signs of being +at times covered with water. Observing some green and white barked +gum-trees on the west side of it, I went to them, and found a small +watercourse with small pools of water, which flowed into the plain coming +from the north-west. Following it a little further, we met with some more +water. A short distance above this it ceased in the dense forest which +seems to surround these ponds. I shall endeavour to force my way through +it to-morrow to the west of north. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds in +the same direction. These ponds I name King's Ponds, in token of my +approbation of his care of, and attention to, the horses, and his +readiness and care in executing all my orders. Wind, south-east, with a +few clouds in the same direction. + +Saturday, 3rd May, King's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes past +seven a.m., on a course of 350 degrees. At twenty-four miles changed to +45 degrees; at three miles and a half changed to north; at two miles and +a half camped. At two miles from our last night's camp found an easy +passage through the forest; the rest of the twenty-four miles was over a +well-grassed country, well wooded with gum and some new trees that I had +found last year, and occasionally a little scrub, in some places thick +for a short distance. On my first course, before changing, I was crossing +low ironstone undulations, which caused me to think I was running along +the side of one of the scrubby rises. I therefore changed to 45 degrees +east of north to make the plain--if there is any--the scrub being so +thick that I cannot see more than fifty yards before me. At three miles +and a half I found that I was travelling over the same description of +small rises and getting into much thicker scrub. I again changed to +north, to see if that would lead me into a plain. At two miles and a half +it was still the same, and apparently a thick forest and scrub before us. +I camped a little before sundown at a small open place to tether the +horses. I have not seen a drop of water during the whole journey, nor any +place likely to retain it, with the exception of a small flat about six +miles from the last camp. The day very hot. Wind, south-east, with a few +clouds. + +Sunday, 4th May, Dense Forest. Returned to King's Ponds. This country +seems but little frequented by the natives, as we have seen no recent +tracks of them. There are a number of cockatoos and other birds about. We +have seen no other game, except one wallaby and one kangaroo. There are +plenty of old emu tracks about the ponds. Wind, variable. Cloudy. + +Monday, 5th May, King's Ponds. Returned to Frew's Water Hole and camped. +Before sundown the sky became overcast with clouds. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 6th May, Frew's Water Hole. Towards morning we had a few drops +of rain. Returned to the camp and found all well. Yesterday they were +visited by a few natives who seemed to be very friendly; they called +water ninloo: they were armed with spears, about ten feet long, having a +flat sharp flint point about six inches long, with a bamboo attached to +the other end. They pointed to the west as the place where they got the +bamboo and water also, but they seemed to know nothing of the country +north of this; they were tall, well-made, elderly men. After talking for +some time they went away very quietly. To-day they have set fire to the +grass round about us, and the wind being strong from the south-east it +travelled with great rapidity. In coming into the camp, about three miles +back, I and the two that were with me narrowly escaped being surrounded +by it; it was as much as our horses could do to get past it, as it came +rolling and roaring along in one immense sheet of flame and smoke, +destroying everything before it. + +Wednesday, 7th May, Howell Ponds. Resting. The natives have not again +visited us, but their smoke is seen all around. I shall start to-morrow +on a course west of north, to try and make the Victoria by that route. I +shall take some of the waterbags with me to see how they answer. Wind, +south-east. Clouds all gone. + +Thursday, 8th May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, started with Thring and McGorrerey, also with King and Nash, who +are to bring back the horses which carry the waterbags, whilst I with +Thring and McGorrerey proceed on a west course. Started at half-past +eight a.m., keeping the former tracks made on my previous journey to the +westward, to where we met with the thick forest. About a mile beyond, +struck a native track, followed it, running nearly north-west, until +nearly three o'clock p.m., when we came upon a small water hole or +opening in the middle of a small plain, which seems to have been dug by +the natives, and is now full of rain water. This is apparently the water +that the natives pointed to, for their tracks are coming into it from +every direction. This opening I have named Nash Spring, in token of my +approbation. I am very much disappointed with the water-bags; in coming +this distance of twenty-one miles they have leaked out nearly half. Wind, +south east. + +Friday, 9th May, Nash Spring. Sent King and Nash with the horses that +carried the water-bags back to the depot, while I and the other two, at +twenty minutes to eight o'clock a.m. proceeded on a bearing of 290 +degrees, following one of the native tracks running in that direction. At +about a mile they became invisible; for that distance I observed that a +line of trees was marked down each side of the track by cutting a small +piece of bark from off the gum-trees with a tomahawk. This I had never +seen natives do before; the marks are very old. At eighteen miles and a +half struck another track (the trees cut in the same way) crossing our +course; followed it, bearing 10 degrees east of north, and at about two +miles came on a native well with moisture in it. Followed the valley on +the same course, but seeing no more appearance of water, I again changed +to my original course, and, at a quarter to four o'clock, finding that I +was again entering the dense forest and scrub, I camped at a good place +for feed for the horses, but no water. The whole of the day's journey has +been through a wooded country, in some places very thick, but in most +open; it is composed of gums, hedge-trees, and some new trees--the gums +predominating; there were also a few patches of lancewood scrub. For the +first eighteen miles the soil was light and sandy, with spinifex and a +little grass mixed. At the end of eighteen miles I again got into the +grass country, with occasionally a little spinifex. Wind, south-east. +Cold during the night and morning. + +Saturday, 10th May, The Forest. Started at five minutes to seven o'clock +a.m. (same course, 290 degrees). Almost immediately encountered a dense +forest of tall mulga, with an immense quantity of dead wood lying on the +ground. It was with the greatest difficulty that the horses could be made +to move through it. At a mile it became a little more open, which +continued for six miles. At seven miles I thought, from the appearance of +the country, that it was dipping towards the north-north-west; I +therefore changed my course to north-west, and in less than a mile again +entered a dense forest of tall mulga, thicker than I had yet been into. +Continued pushing, tearing, and winding into it for three miles. The +further I went the denser it became. I saw that it was hopeless to +continue any further. We were travelling full speed, and making little +more than a mile an hour throughout the ten miles gone over to-day. The +country is a red light soil and covered with abundance of grass, but +completely dried up. No rain seems to have fallen here for a length of +time. We have not seen a bird, nor heard the chirrup of any to disturb +the gloomy silence of the dark and dismal forest--thus plainly indicating +the absence of water in and about this country. I therefore retraced my +steps towards Nash Springs; passed our last night's camp, and continued +on till sundown, one of the horses being completely knocked up. Camped +without water. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 11th May, The Forest. This morning the horse that was so bad last +night was found dead, which puts us in a very awkward position--without a +pack-horse. We had to leave behind the pack-saddle, bags, and all other +things we could not carry with us on our riding-horses. Proceeded to Nash +Spring, which we reached after two o'clock p.m., with another of the +horses completely knocked up. It was with difficulty that he reached it. +I suppose the days being so extremely hot, and the feed so dry that there +is little nourishment in it, is the cause of this, as they were horses +that had been out with me on my last year's journey, and had suffered +from want of water a longer time than on this occasion. I am nearly in a +fix with a long journey before me, the horses unable to do more than two +nights without water, and the water-bags losing half their contents in +one day's journey. To make the Victoria through the country I have just +passed into would be impossible. I must now endeavour to find a country +to the northward and make the Roper. I am very vexed about the water-bags +turning out so badly, as I was placing great dependence on them for +carrying me through. I must try and push through the best way possible. +Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 12th May, Nash Spring, West Forest. Proceeded very slowly with +the knocked-up horse to the Depot; he appears to be very ill, and is +looking very bad this morning. Arrived there and found all right; they +had been visited by the natives twice during my absence. They appeared to +be very friendly, and were hugging Frew and King, for whom they seemed to +have taken a great fancy; they were old, young, and children. Some pieces +of white tape were given to them, which pleased them much. They still +pointed to the west, as the place where the large water is, and made +signs with a scoop to show that they have to dig for it in going through; +which I am now almost sure is the case from what I saw of the country in +my last journey in that direction. In upwards of fifty miles we did not +see the least signs of a watercourse--nor could I discover any dip in the +country; it has the same appearance all round; one cannot see more than +half a mile before one, and in many places only a few yards. I have been +deceived once or twice by what appeared to be a dip in the country, but +it turned out to be only lower trees and scrub than what we were +travelling through. With a small party I might make the Victoria from +here, but there is every chance of losing the horses in doing so; and I +should be in a sad predicament to be there without horses, and without +the possibility of receiving supplies from the party at the Depot; I +should have to perish there. Therefore, I consider it would be folly and +madness to attempt it, and might be the cause of sacrificing the lives of +both parties. Had the feed been green, or had it any substance in it, I +would have tried, but every blade of grass is parched and dried up as in +the middle of summer, and the horses have not the strength nor endurance +to undergo much privation, of which I have had a proof in the journey I +have just taken. After resting a day or two to recover the horses, and +get ourselves a little refreshed, I shall move the party up to King's +Ponds, and try to push through wherever I can find an opening. Day very +hot. Wind, south-east. A few clouds came up from that quarter after +sundown. + +Tuesday, 13th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Resting ourselves and horses. Day +again hot, with a few clouds round the horizon. The natives had again set +fire to the country all around, which increases the heat. I wish it would +come on to rain, and put out their fires, and fill the ponds, which are +shrinking a great deal more than I expected. Wind, south-east. Clouds. + +Wednesday, 14th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. As I don't feel well enough +to-day, I shall remain here, and start to-morrow morning. This morning, +while Thring was collecting the horses, he came on a place where the +natives had been encamped a day or two before, and there saw the remains +of the bones of one of them that had apparently been burnt; this is +another new feature in their customs. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 15th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Started with the party across +the plain to Frew's Water Hole, course 15 degrees east of north; found +the plain burnt for ten miles. The fire has been so great that it has +burned every blade of grass, and scorched all the trees to their very +tops. I was very fortunate the other day in having escaped it; nothing +could have lived in such a fire, and had we been caught in it we must +have perished. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone, Latitude, 16 degrees 54 +minutes 7 seconds. + +Friday, 16th May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at fourteen minutes past +eight o'clock a.m., course 345 degrees, for King's Chain of Ponds. +Arrived at about half-past three o'clock p.m. In coming through, one of +the horses separated from the rest and bolted off into the dense forest, +tearing everything down before him. We got him in again, but with a +broken saddle, and the top off one of the bags, which we afterwards +recovered. Arrived at the ponds without any further accident. Wind, +north-east. Very hot, and a few clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 38 minutes +53 seconds. + +Saturday, 17th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Sent King and Thring to follow +round the flat to see where the ponds go to. About noon they returned, +and reported that the water loses itself in a flat, which is surrounded +by thick forest and scrub. This certainly is a very pretty place, and a +great pity it is not more extensive. It reminds me much of the park land +found by Captain Sturt in 1845, where he had his second depot, named Fort +Grey. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds. + +Sunday, 18th May, King's Chain of Ponds. In the afternoon the sky became +cloudy, and at sundown was quite overcast; the day exceedingly hot, and +the wind nearly calm. The clouds came from the north-west, and the little +wind there is from the south-east. + +Monday, 19th May, King's Chain of Ponds. As the sky is overcast with +clouds, so that I cannot see the sun, and as it is nearly impossible to +keep a straight course in such thick country without it, I shall remain +here to-day, and if it should break up I shall endeavour to take a lunar +observation. At 9 o'clock a.m. it cleared up, which enabled me to take +one. The remainder of the day very hot. Wind variable, with clouds from +every direction; towards sundown it again settled in the south-east, and +all the clouds disappeared without any rain falling. + +Tuesday, 20th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge +of the party, I started with Thring, King, and Auld, at half-past nine +a.m., on a northern course; at one o'clock p.m. changed to 65 degrees, to +what appeared to be a bare hill. At a little more than a mile struck a +small watercourse running towards the north; followed it, and at about +two miles and a half came on some ponds of water, but not so large as +those at our depot; at present they are not more than three feet and a +half deep. Examined around the wooded plain to see if there was any +larger body of water, but could see none. This plain is covered with +small gums, having a dark bluish-green leaf with a grey-coloured bark; +there are also a few white ones around the ponds of water, which abound +with grass. Before reaching the plain we crossed what seemed to be +elevated sandy table land, extending about nine miles, covered with +spinifex and dark-coloured gum-trees; we also passed two or three narrow +belts of tall mulga and hedge-trees which grow on the stony rises, about +twenty feet high. These ponds I name Auld's Ponds, in token of my +approbation of his conduct. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 16 degrees 28 +minutes 16 seconds. + +Wednesday, 21st May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes +past eight o'clock a.m., course north. The morning was so thick, with a +heavy fog, that I did not get a start till late. At three miles I found +another chain of ponds, but not so large; these I name McGorrerey Ponds. +Proceeded on the same course and passed through some thick belts of +hedge-tree and scrub; the country then opened and became splendidly +grassed, with gums and other trees. We also saw, for the first time, a +new gum-tree, having a large broad dark-green leaf, and the bark of a +nankeen colour, which gave a very pretty effect to the country. At +seventeen miles, not finding any water, and having passed five deep holes +surrounded with ironstone conglomerate rock similar to Frew's Water Hole, +but without any water in them, and to all appearance the dip of the +country being to the north-east, I have changed my course to that +direction, again travelling over a splendidly grassed country for ten +miles, occasionally meeting with low stony rises of ironstone and gravel, +at the foot of which were some more deep holes without water. In the last +three miles we had to get through a few patches of scrub; the grass is +all very dry. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time. At +sundown camped without water. Day very hot. Wind variable, with a few +clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 8 minutes 39 seconds. + +Thursday, 22nd May, Fine Grass Country. Returned to McGorrerey Ponds. Day +very hot, and the horses much distressed for want of water; they have the +appearance of being half-starved for a month, and have taken an immense +quantity of water, having gone to it about four or five times in an hour. +As I am not satisfied that these ponds cease here, I shall try again +to-morrow a little more to the east. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 23rd May, McGorrerey Ponds. Gave the horses a little time to feed +after daylight in consequence of their having been tethered during the +night; the country is so thickly wooded that I dare not trust them in +hobbles the whole night, as, if they were lost sight of there would be +great difficulty in finding them here. There is still the appearance of a +small creek, which I shall follow until it runs out or trends too much to +the east. Started at half-past eight o'clock a.m., course 20 degrees east +of north, following the small creek about two miles; it seems to be +getting larger, with occasionally a little water in it. We have also +seen, on both sides of us, ponds with water surrounded by gum-trees; +these ponds, when full, must retain water for a long time. We have also +seen a new tree growing on the banks of the creek, with a large straight +barrel, dark smooth bark, with bunches of bright yellow flowers and +palmated leaves. At a mile and a half further the creek is improving +wonderfully. We have now passed some fine holes of water, which will last +at least three months; at five miles the water is becoming more plentiful +and the creek broader and deeper, but twisting and turning about very +much, sometimes running east and then turning to the west and all other +points of the compass. Having seen what I consider to be permanent water, +I shall now run a straight course, 20 degrees east of north, and strike +it occasionally to see if the water continues. I have named these Daly +Waters, in honour of his Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. Within a +hundred yards the banks are thickly wooded with tall mulga and lancewood +scrub; but to the east is open gum forest, splendidly grassed. Proceeded, +occasionally touching the creek, and always found fine reaches of water, +which continued a considerable way. At thirteen miles they become smaller +and wider apart; at fifteen miles the creek seems to be trending more to +the eastward, its bed is now conglomerate ironstone, and, as this appears +to be about the last water, I shall give the horses a drink and follow it +as far as it goes. In a short distance it has become quite dry, with a +deep broad course upwards of twenty yards wide. At seventeen miles it +separated into two channels, and at a quarter of a mile the two channels +emptied themselves into a large boggy swamp, with no surface water. I +examined the swamp, but could see no outlet. The country round about is +thickly timbered with gum and other trees. Returned to the last water and +camped. I shall return to the Depot and bring the party up here. Wind, +south-east; a few clouds at sunset. + +Saturday, 24th May, Chain of Ponds, Large Creek. Followed my tracks back +to Auld's Chain of Ponds, and had difficulty in doing so, the ground +being so hard that the hoofs of the horses scarcely left any impression +on it. This would be a fearful country for any one to be lost in, as +there is nothing to guide them, and one cannot see more than three +hundred yards around, the gum-trees are so thick, and the small belts of +lancewood make it very deceptive. Should any one be so unfortunate as to +be lost, it would be quite impossible to find them again; it would be +imprudent to search for them, for by so doing the searchers would run the +risk of being lost also. Arrived at Auld's Ponds and camped. Wind, +south-east. A few clouds. + +Sun day, 25th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded to the Depot, where I +arrived in the afternoon and found all well. No natives have been near +them, although some of their smoke has been seen at a short distance from +the Depot. Yesterday we hoisted the Union Jack in honour of her Most +Gracious Majesty's birthday, that being the only thing we had to +commemorate this happy event, with our best wishes for her long and happy +reign. Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 26th May, Chain of Ponds. Removed the party on to Auld's Chain of +Ponds. + +Tuesday, 27th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded with the party to the +fourth chain of ponds and creek. This water has every appearance of being +permanent, and I hope I may fall in with such another in the next degree +of latitude. It may be from this that the Wickham receives a supply of +water when this overflows. Wind, south-west. Latitude, 16 degrees 14 +minutes 31 seconds. + +Wednesday, 28th May, Daly Waters, Fourth Chain of Ponds and Creeks. Sent +Thring and King to round the swamp into which this creek flows, to see if +there is any outlet to the eastward of this within two miles. There are +other ponds and a creek, which also empties itself into a swamp a little +to the eastward of the one into which this one empties itself. In the +afternoon they returned, having found a small watercourse forming the +north-west side of the swamp; followed it, running nearly 10 degrees east +of north. In about one mile and a half they came upon a large swamp +covered with water, but shallow. They then proceeded seven miles on a +north-east course; then meeting with some white-barked gum-trees, +appearing to run to the north-west, followed them for three miles, +crossing a gum and grass plain. Observing some native smoke to +north-east, they returned. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 29th May, Daly Waters. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +camp, at half-past seven o'clock proceeded with Thring, Auld, and Frew +down the creek to examine the swamp found yesterday. It is about 30 +degrees east of north, about three miles from the Depot at Daly Waters. +The water does not appear to be deep, but covers a large area; there were +a few pelicans and other water-birds on it. From this we proceeded, on a +course 20 degrees east of north, to search the flat where Thring and King +saw the smoke yesterday. At eighteen miles from Daly Waters, having +crossed the gum plain without meeting with any water, and being on +apparently higher ground than the plain, I changed my course to 90 +degrees east of north. At two miles and a half again crossed the plain, +and got upon low rising ground of ironstone and gravel, but still no +water. Changed to former bearing of 20 degrees east of north, and at +seven miles came upon a dry swamp, covered with long blue grass and deep +holes, but still no water could we find. Proceeded another mile, and +finding I was getting on rising ground, and the horses having done a long +and heavy day's journey, camped without water. After leaving the swamp +with the water (which was very boggy all round it), the country became +similar to that of Sturt Plains surrounding Newcastle Water, being so +full of deep holes that we were in danger of getting our necks broken, +and also the horses' legs. The soil is good, and completely covered with +grass and stunted gum-trees. In rainy weather it seems to be covered with +water. There is no watercourse, or any appearance of which way the water +flows. A number of various kinds of birds were about. Wind variable, but +mostly from south-west. Latitude, 15 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds. + +Friday, 30th May, North-north-east of Blue-Grass Swamp. Wishing to see a +little more of the country further on and to find where the birds get +their water, I proceeded with Thring, leaving the other two behind with +the horses, three miles and a half on the same course, following their +flight. In half a mile came again upon the stunted gum plain, splendidly +grassed to above the horses' knees. Can find no water, although the birds +are still round about us. The same description of country continues from +the swamp with the water to beyond this, consisting of small undulations +of gravel and ironstone. Retraced my steps to where I had left the other +two, and proceeded towards the Depot at nine miles. The country was in a +blaze of fire to the east of us. I am very thankful there was scarcely a +breath of wind, which enabled us to pass within a quarter of a mile of +it: had there been a strong wind we should have been in great danger, the +grass being so long and thick. Returned to the Depot after six p.m., +being all very tired with the shaking we have had the last two days by +the horses falling into the holes nearly every step, and they also are +nearly exhausted; twelve hours in the saddle over such a country is no +easy task. It was my intention to have come back more to the east, but +having seen the smoke I saw we should be in the middle of the fire, and +so changed my intention. Wind, south-west. Very hot. + +Saturday, 31st May, Daly Waters. As there are no appearances of rain, the +weather very hot, and I have a good deal of work in plans, etc. to bring +up, I shall remain here until Monday. I feel this heavy work much more +than I did the journey of last year; so much of it is beginning to tell +upon me. I feel my capability of endurance beginning to give way. There +are a number of small fish in this water, from three to five inches long, +something resembling a perch; the party are catching them with hooks; +they are a great relish to us, who have lived so long upon dry meat. Any +change is very agreeable. Wind variable. + +Sunday, 1st June, Daly Waters. The day has been as hot as if it were in +the middle of summer. Surely we must get a change soon. Wind variable, +with a few light clouds. Mr. Waterhouse has shot two new parrots. + +Monday, 2nd June, Daly Waters. Leaving the party in charge of Mr. +Kekwick, I started at twenty minutes past seven (course north), with +Thring, Auld, and Frew. Camped at 4.20. The whole day's journey has been +through a splendid grass country, and open forest of gum-trees and other +shrubs, some of them new to us. Here again we have also met with the +bean-tree, the blossoms of a bright crimson, and at this season they seem +to shed their leaves. The country passed over consisted mostly of +undulations of ironstone and gravel, with a brown-coloured rock +occasionally, between which were broad valleys of a light-coloured soil, +all cracked and having many deep holes, which, being hidden with the long +grass, caused the horses to tumble into them, and made it very fatiguing +both to them and us. I have been constantly in the hope all day of coming +upon some water, but have been disappointed. After rain this country can +be passed over with the greatest facility, for we have passed holes that +will hold water for a long time. The dip of this country is now to the +eastward. To-day I think I have been running along where the dip +commences from the table land. It was my intention to have tried a +journey to the north-west; but, from what I have seen of the country +to-day, and on my other journeys to the north, as well as Mr. Gregory's +description of it on the other side, I am led to believe that it would be +hopeless to expect to find water there. To try it will only be losing +time, and reducing the strength of my horses. I must now try on a +north-east course towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. I do not wish to go +east if I can help it; but I must go where the water leads me. During the +day's journey we passed through three narrow belts of hedge-tree scrub, +which was very thick. There does not seem to be so much of that as we get +to the north, neither is there so much of the tall mulga. We have not +seen a drop of water since we left the camp. Camped without it. Wind, +south. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 50 minutes 20 seconds. + +Tuesday, 3rd June, Gum Forest. Fine country. I sent Thring on three miles +to see if there was any change, there being a number of birds about that +frequent the place where water is. I think there may still be a chance of +falling in with some. He has returned and can see none. Country the same +as that travelled over yesterday. Returned to the Depot. Arrived a little +before sundown, and found all well. Wind light; south. Day again very +hot. + +Wednesday, 4th June, Daly Waters. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the +north-east. I shall take the water-bags; they may retain as much as will +suffice for a drink night and morning for four horses. I shall proceed to +the blue-grass swamp that I found in my last north-north-east course, +trace that down as far as it goes, and, should there be no water, shall +strike for the sources of the Wickham River. Wind, south-south-east. + +Thursday, 5th June, Daly Waters. Started at a quarter to eight with +Thring and Auld, taking all the water-bags full, also King and Billiatt +to take back the horses that carry the water. I have chosen King for this +purpose, as being the next best bushman to Thring, and one in whom I can +place the greatest dependence to execute any charge I may give him with +care and faithfulness. At four o'clock arrived at the blue-grass swamp. +Changed my course to 70 degrees east of north, following down the middle +of it, which contains a great number of large deep holes in which water +has been, but are now quite dry. Followed it until it spread itself over +the plain, causing a great number of deep cracks and holes completely +covered with grass, gums, and other trees, too thick to get an easy +passage through. At sundown camped on the plain without water. A few +hours before sundown the sky had a very peculiar appearance to the +eastward, as if a black fog were rising, or smoke from an immense fire at +a long distance off, but it was too extensive for that. At sundown it +assumed a more distinct aspect in the shape of black clouds coming from +that direction. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 6th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Sent King and Billiatt back +with the horses, while I proceeded with the other two on a course 70 +degrees east of north. At a mile and a half came suddenly upon a scrubby +ironstone rise about twenty feet high. After passing over a rotten plain, +full of holes and covered with grass and stunted gum-trees, proceeded to +the top, from which we had a good view of the surrounding country--to all +appearance one of the blackest and most dismal views a man ever beheld; +even the splendid grass country I had been coming through has the same +appearance. The cause of it is the trees being so thick, and some of them +of a very dark colour, that nothing but their tops can be seen, which +gives it the appearance of being a dense scrub. To the west there is an +appearance of a scrubby rise--the one on which I have been on my other +journeys to the north. No hills visible; all appears to be a level +country. Proceeded down the gradual slope, crossing two other lower +ironstone undulations, meeting occasionally with small rotten plains with +holes, and covered with grass. At five miles the ground became firmer; at +seven miles met with what seemed to be a water-shed. After a long search +found that the flow of the water was to the west of north; traced it a +short distance to the south-east and found a small shallow pool of water +and gave our horses a drink; and wishing to take advantage of anything +that may take me to the north-west, I turned and traced it down; passed +three ponds with some water in them, and at three miles came upon a fine +large one two and a half feet deep; followed it still on, but was +disappointed on finding it terminate in a dry swamp, all cracked and full +of holes; circled round it to see if the creek took up again, but could +see no appearance of any. As this last pond will do for the party, I will +return and bring them up, for there is a slight appearance of rain, and I +wish to get them on as far as possible before the winter rain comes on. +Returned to our last night's camp, where we arrived at sundown. Wind, +south-east, with few clouds. + +Saturday, 7th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Returned to the Depot; +found all well. Clouds all gone, but the wind blowing strong from the +south-east. + +Sunday, 8th June, Daly Waters. Strong winds still from south-east, and +sometimes from the south. Day very hot. + +Monday, 9th June, Daly Waters. Last night, a little after sundown, Mr. +Waterhouse was seized with a violent pain in the stomach, which was +followed by a severe sickness, and continued throughout the night; this +morning he is a little better. I think it was caused by eating some +boiled gum which had been obtained from the nut-tree Mr. Kekwick +discovered last year. When boiled it very much resembles tapioca, and has +much the same taste. I also ate some of it yesterday, which occasioned a +severe pain in the stomach, but soon went off. Some of the others also +felt a little affected by it, but none so bad as Mr. Waterhouse; on +others it had no effect whatever, and they still continue to eat it. Mr. +Waterhouse looks so ill that I think it desirable not to move the party +to-day, and trust by to-morrow he will be quite well. Light wind from the +south-east, with a few clouds. + +Tuesday, 10th June, Daly Waters. As Mr. Waterhouse is better, I shall +move the party to-day. Started at half-past eight a.m., following my +former tracks. At half-past four p.m. camped at the blue-grass swamp; +twenty-six miles without water. The horses will require to be watched +during the night. Wind, south-east. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 56 +minutes 31 seconds. + +Wednesday, 11th June, Blue-Grass Swamp. Started at seven o'clock; course, +70 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed the ironstone rise, and +at eleven miles changed to north, to cut the chain of ponds, which I have +named Purdie Ponds, in honour of Dr. Purdie, of Edinburgh, M.D. At one +mile and three quarters, on the last course, camped on the largest pond. +The country that we have gone over, although there are a number of holes +and cracks in it, is really of the best description, covered with grass +up to the horses' bodies. We have passed several new trees and shrubs. +The bean-tree is becoming more numerous here. At this season and in this +latitude it sheds its leaves; the flower is in full bloom without them. +The course of the ironstone rise seems to be north and south. Wind, +south-east. Weather a little cooler, but clouds all gone. Latitude, 15 +degrees 52 minutes 58 seconds. + +Thursday, 12th June, Purdie Ponds. Preparing for another start to-morrow +with the water-bags. It takes two men nearly half a day to fill them. The +orifices for filling them are a great deal too small; they ought to be at +least two inches in diameter. The American cloth with which they are +lined is useless in making them watertight, and is a great annoyance in +emptying them, for the water gets between it and the leather. It takes a +long time to draw through again, and does not answer the purpose it was +intended for. A piece of calico would have done far better. It is very +vexing to bring things so far, and, when required, to find them nearly +useless. Wind, south-east. Cloudy. Nights cold, but the day hot. + +Friday, 13th June, Purdie Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the +party, started at fifteen minutes past eight with Thring and Auld, also +with King and Billiatt, who were to bring back the horses carrying the +water-bags. Proceeded on a north course, and at seven miles crossed what +seemed to be a water-shed, seemingly running to the west of north. Halted +the party, and sent Thring a short distance to see if the flow was in +that direction. In a quarter of an hour he returned and informed me that +it was, but only very slightly so. Changed to north-north-west to follow +it. It gradually assumed the appearance of a small creek. At two miles +came upon three small pools of water. I now resolve to follow it down and +see where it goes to. I should think there must be more water further on. +Its course is west of north. Continued to follow it down, winding and +twisting about very much to almost every point of the compass. At seven +miles from the pools found a little more water, but not a drop between. +Allowed the horses to drink what there was, and proceeded down it. I sent +Thring to follow it on one side, while I and the rest of the party kept +on the other. By this we were enabled to cut off the bends and see all +the creeks, so that no water could escape us. Twice it became very small, +and I was afraid we were going to lose it altogether, but it commenced +again and became a fine creek. Not a drop of water. At a quarter to five +camped without it. Stony rises are now commencing, which are covered with +gum and other trees, also a low scrub. They are very rough and running +nearly west and south. The one on the west is a continuation of the one I +crossed in coming to Purdie Ponds. The general flow of the creek is +north. Some of the new trees are growing very large on its banks. The +cabbage-tree is growing here also. This is the first time I have met with +it, sometimes growing to the height of fifteen feet. All along the banks +of the creek, and apparently for some distance back, is covered with an +abundance of grass, but all dried up. In some places both horse and rider +were completely hidden by it. Wind, south-east--few clouds. Latitude, 15 +degrees 30 minutes 27 seconds. + +Saturday, 14th June, River Strangways. Named after the Honourable H.B. +Templar Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands, South Australia, and +who, since his taking office, has done all in his power to promote +exploration of the interior. Sent King and Billiatt back with the horses +to the camp at Purdie Ponds, whilst I proceed with the further +examination of the creek. I find it now running to the east of north, and +the stony rises are closing upon it at two miles and a half. They begin +to assume the shape of hills, which causes the travelling to be rather +rough. At three miles and a half the hills run close to the creek, and +are precipitous; the bed is very rough and stony--so much so that I could +not take the horses down it. Ascended a hill near the creek to see what +it and the country ahead was like; the hills being so rough that I could +not get the horses close enough to see if there was any water, dismounted +and scrambled to the top of the precipices; was delighted to see below me +a large hole of water. Sent the horses across a gully to another hill +still higher, while I descended into the creek; found the bed very rough, +having large masses of sandstone and ironstone, which rendered it +impassable for the horses. Found the water to be deep and beautifully +clear; proceeded down a little further, and saw another large one. The +hills close to the creek are very precipitous, and we shall have +difficulty in getting the horses down to water; the hills, where they +come close to the creek, are covered with spinifex. I shall therefore +require to camp the party at the mouth of the gorge, where there is +plenty of feed. The hill I had sent the horses to was so rocky they were +unable to cross it, and there being higher hills still on ahead, I have +left the horses with Auld, and, taking Thring with me, have walked to the +top of it to see what course the creek was taking, but they are all so +much of the same height and appearance that I can scarcely tell in which +direction it runs. There is an appearance of a large creek coming in from +the westward, and higher hills towards the north. I shall return and send +the party on to this permanent water, and try to find an easy road over +the ranges for them. I would have gone on to-day, but my horses are +without shoes, and some of them are already lame, and the shoes I brought +with me are nearly all exhausted; we have not been using any since +shortly after leaving South Australia. Returned to our last night's camp, +where we had left the canvas tank with some water that the horses did not +drink in the morning; gave them what remained, and proceeded up the +creeks to the last water we saw yesterday, where we arrived at sundown +and camped. Wind, south. + +Sunday, 15th June, River Strangways. Returned to the Depot at Purdie +Ponds; found all well. Wind, south-east. Cool. + +Monday, 16th June, Purdie Ponds. It was late before the horses could be +found. Proceeded to the first pool of water in the River Strangways, +distance about ten miles, and camped. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 17th June, River Strangways. Proceeded down the creek to the +gorge and camped; day very hot. We had some difficulty in finding a way +down for the horses to drink, it being so very rough and stony, but at +last succeeded. On the west side there is a layer of rocks on the top of +the hard sandstone, black and rugged, resembling lava; spinifex close to +the creek. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 18th June, Gorge, River Strangways. I shall require to have +some of the horses shod for further exploration, and shall therefore +remain here to-day to get that done. I sent Thring and King a little way +down the creek to see what the country is, and if there is any more +water. They went about nine miles, but could see no more. In some places +the country is sandy, and in others stony and grassy. Mr. Kekwick has +discovered four new trees that we have not seen before, and several new +shrubs. Some of the party succeeded in catching a few fine large fish, +some of them weighing two pounds and a half. Some were of the perch +family, and others resembled rock cod, with three remarkable black spots +on each side of their bodies. There are also some small ones resembling +the gold fish, and other small ones with black stripes on their sides, +resembling pilot fish. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 15 degrees 30 minutes +3 seconds. + +Thursday, 19th June, Gorge, River Strangways. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in +charge of the party, started with Thring, Auld, and King, to look for +water. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time back; the grass +is quite dry and withered. At 8.15 proceeded down the river, and, to +avoid the hills, I went about a mile to the west, and found a very +passable road; for about two miles we had sandy soil and spinifex mixed +with grass, also a few stony rises of lime and sandstone. The country +after that again became excellently grassed, the soil light and a little +sandy. No water in the bed, which appears to have a very rapid fall; its +general course is about north-north-east. At twelve miles, seeing a stony +hill of considerable elevation, I left the bed, and went towards it. At +the base of it was a deep creek; I was pleased to see a fine supply of +water in it. I immediately sent Thring back to guide the party up here +to-morrow, whilst I with the two others proceeded with the examination of +the river further down. After following it for about ten miles through a +beautifully grassed country, passing occasionally sandstone rises, with +apparently scrub on their tops, camped at the base of one of them. + +Friday, 20th June, First Camp North of Gorge. Returned to the other +water, and at noon met the party and brought them on to this water. We +have passed a few stringy-bark trees. In the bed of the river there is +growing some very large and tall timber, having a dark-coloured bark, the +leaf jointed the same as the shea-oak, but has not the acid taste: the +horses eat it. There are also some very fine melaleuca-trees, which here +seem to displace the gums in the river. We have also passed some more new +trees and shrubs. Frew, in looking about the banks, found a large creeper +with a yellow blossom, and having a large bean pod growing on it. I shall +endeavour to get some of the seed as we go on to-morrow. I shall now move +on with the whole party, and I trust to find water in the river as long +as I follow it; its banks are getting much deeper and broader, and likely +to retain water; it is dreadfully slow work to keep searching for water. +Before this I could not do otherwise, in consequence of the season being +so very dry. Since the commencement of the journey the only rain that we +have had to have any effect upon the creeks was at Mr. Levi's station, +Mount Margaret. Since then we have had only two or three showers, which +have had no effect upon the creeks. Light winds, south-east. Latitude, 15 +degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds. + +Saturday, 21st June, First Camp North of Gorge. It was late before we +could get a start, in consequence of our not being able to find two of +the horses which separated from the rest during the night. Started, +following the river down; it frequently separating into two or three +channels, and again joining. Numerous small watercourses are coming in on +both sides, from east and west; it winds about a great deal--its general +course to-day for nine miles has been nearly north-north-east. We passed +a number of large lagoons, nearly dry, close to the stony hills: when +full they must retain water for a long time. There is very little water +in the main channel. At nine miles I found a large and excellent pool of +water in one of the side creeks; it will last some time. It being now +afternoon, and there being a nice open plain for the horses, I have +camped. The river is now running through stony hills, which are very +rough, composed of hard sandstone mixed with veins of quartz, some of +which are very hard, much resembling marble with crystalline grains in +it. We are now passing a number of stringy bark along with gum and other +trees, Mr. Kekwick still finding new shrubs. After we had camped, taking +Thring with me, I ascended a hill a little way from the camp, but was +disappointed in not having an extensive view. To the north, which is now +apparently the course of the river, there seems to be an opening in the +range of stony hills. The dip of the country seems to be that way. At 33 +degrees east of north from the camp, about eight miles distant, there is +a high wooded tent-hill on the range; this I have named Mount Muller, +after my friend the well-known botanist of Victoria. All round about are +rough stony hills with grassy valleys between, having spinifex growing on +their sides and tops. The valley through which the main channel flows is +good soil, and covered with grass from two to four feet high. Towards the +north-west the hills appear to be very rugged. Wind south-east, with a +few clouds. Latitude, 15 degrees 10 minutes 40 seconds. + +Sunday, 22nd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. A few heavy clouds about. +We are now in the country discovered by Mr. Gregory. There is a great +deal of very good timber in the valley, which is getting larger and +improving as we advance. It is still very thick--so much so, that the +hills cannot be seen until quite close to them. Wind variable. Latitude, +15 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds. + +Monday, 23rd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. This morning the sky is +overcast with light clouds coming from the south-east. Started at eight +o'clock, still following the river, which winds about very much; its +general course 10 degrees east of north. At nine miles the channel became +much smaller, and shortly afterwards separated into numerous small ones, +and was apparently lost to me. I continued a north course, and at twelve +miles struck a creek coming from the south-east; at two miles from this +creek found another large one coming from the south-west, with shea-oak +in it, which makes me suppose it is the River Strangways, and that it +formed again and joined this one. At the junction were numerous recent +fires of the natives; there must have been a great many of them, for +their fires covered the ground, also shells of the mussel which they had +been eating. Searched for water, and found a little, but not sufficient +for my horses, and too difficult to approach; the course of the river is +still to the north. One mile and a half from the junction found enough +water that will do for me at night. As there seems to be so little water, +and this day being exceedingly hot and oppressive, I have camped. The +country travelled over to-day has been of the same description, +completely covered with long grass; the soil rich, and a great many of +the cabbage-tree growing about it. Wind variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 58 +minutes 55 seconds. + +Tuesday, 24th June, Mussel Camp, River Strangways. With the sun there +came up a very thick and heavy fog which continued for about two hours; +it then cleared off and the day became exceedingly hot. The river, after +rounding the hills (where we were camped), ran nearly east for three +miles, meeting there a stony hill which again throws it into a northerly +course. I ascended the hill, but could see nothing distinctly, the fog +being so thick. Descended and pursued the bed, which separated frequently +into many channels, and at ten miles it spread into a large area, and its +courses became small with no water in them. The grass above our heads was +so high and thick that the rear-party lost me and could not find the +rocks; by cooeing I brought them to me again. Before I had heard them I +had sent Thring back to pick up their tracks and bring them to the clear +ground I was on with the rest of the party, but they arrived before he +made up to them. The scrub is also very thick close to the river. Mr. +Kekwick found cane growing in the bed, and also brought in a specimen of +a new water-lily--a most beautiful thing it is; it is now in Mr. +Waterhouse's collection. At twelve miles, finding some water, the horses +being tired in crossing so many small creeks, and working through the +scrub and long grass, I camped at the open ground. The country gone over +to-day is again splendidly grassed in many places, especially near the +river; it has very lately been burned by the natives. There are a great +number of them running along the banks; the country now seems to be +thickly inhabited. Towards the east and the north-east the country is in +a blaze; there is so much grass the fire must be dreadful. I hope it will +not come near us. The day has been most oppressively hot, with scarcely a +breath of wind. Latitude, 14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds. + +Wednesday, 25th June, River Strangways. Two of the horses having +separated from the others, and crossing the river, quite hidden in the +long grass, it was late before they were found. Started at nine o'clock; +course about 70 degrees east of north, following the channel. I expect, +in two or three miles, to meet with the Roper. At three miles struck a +large sheet of deep clear water, on which were a number of natives, with +their lubras and children; they set up a fearful yelling and squalling, +and ran off as fast as they could. Rounded the large sheet of water and +proceeded along it. At a mile, three men were seen following; halted the +party, and went up to them. One was a very old man, one middle-aged, the +third a young, stout, well-made fellow; they seemed to be friendly. Tried +to make them understand by signs that I wished to get across the river; +they made signs, by pointing down the river, by placing both hands +together, having the fingers closed, which led me to think I could get +across further down. They made signs for us to be off, and that they were +going back again. I complied with their request, and after bidding each +other a friendly good-bye, we followed down the banks of the river, which +I now find is the Roper. At seven miles tried to cross it, but found it +to be impossible; it is now divided into a number of channels, very deep +and full of running water. Proceeded further, and tried it at several +places, but with the same result. At twelve miles, camped close to a +steep rocky hill on the north side of the river. Searched all round for a +crossing, but was unable to find one. To the eastward the country is all +on fire. The banks of the river are thickly lined with cabbage-trees, +also the cane, bamboo, and other shrubs. Two small turtle-shells were +picked up by the party at the native camp. The country is still of the +same fine description. We are now north of Mr. Gregory's tracks. +Latitude, 14 degrees 5 minutes. Wind variable. + +Thursday, 26th June, Roper River. As I cannot find a crossing, I shall +have to return to my last camp and try to cross there. Arrived and +camped. Day again oppressively hot. Almost immediately on leaving our +camp this morning I observed native tracks on ours close to it. They must +have followed us up last night, although we saw nothing of them. They are +not to be trusted: they will pretend the greatest friendship one moment +and spear you the next. They have been following us to-day, but keeping +on the other side of the river and setting fire to the grass as they go +along. I wish it would rain and cause the grass to become green, so as to +stop them burning, as well as to give me some fresh food for the horses, +for they now begin to show the want of it very much; it is so dried up +that there is little nourishment in it. Some of them are beginning to +look very poor and are much troubled with worms. My journeys have been +very short last week, in consequence of my being so weak from the effects +of scurvy and a severe attack of dysentery, for I have scarcely been able +to endure the motion of horseback for four hours at a time; but having +lately obtained some native cucumbers, I find they are doing me a deal of +good, and hope by next week to be all right again. Wind, south. Latitude, +14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds. + +Friday, 27th June, West Roper River. Started on a course of 320 degrees, +crossing the river, and at three miles and a half again struck the Roper, +running. Followed it up, coming nearly from the west, but winding about +very much, and having many branches, which makes it very difficult for me +to get the turns correctly. It is a splendid river. We have passed many +brooks and deep reaches of water some miles in length, and the country +could not be better: it is really magnificent. At 2.30 I was informed +that we were short of a horse. Sent Messrs. Kekwick and Thring back to +see where he was left. We have had to cross so many boggy, nasty places, +with deep water and thick scrub, that he must have been missed at one of +these. The general course of the river to-day has been 280 degrees. +Distance, fifteen miles. Messrs. Kekwick and Thring are returned. They +found the horse bogged in a side creek. It was so thick with cabbage-tree +that they passed in searching for him two or three times. They had great +difficulty in getting him out, but at last succeeded, and arrived at the +camp before dark. A short time before that, another horse got into a very +deep and rapid channel of the river, the top of the banks projecting so +much that he could not get out, and the gum-trees having fallen across +both above and below him, he was completely fixed. We endeavoured to get +him out, but it got so dark that we could not see him, and the rope +breaking that we were pulling him out by, he got his head under water, +and was drowned in a moment. We then found that the cause of the rope +breaking was that he had got one of his hind feet entangled in a sunken +tree. It being now so dark we can do no more to-night, and have left him +in the water until daylight. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47 +minutes 26 seconds. + +Saturday, 28th June, Roper River. As I shall be short of meat, I remain +here to-day to cut up the horse and dry him. The water of this river is +most excellent; the soil is also of the first description; and the grass, +although dry, most abundant, from two to five feet high. This is +certainly the finest country I have seen in Australia. We passed three +rocky hills yesterday, not high, but having grass up to their tops, round +which the river winds at their base, forming large and long reaches of +water. On the grassy plains it forms into different channels, and is +thickly timbered with shea-oak, gum, cabbage-trees, and other trees and +shrubs. Wind variable. + +Sunday, 29th June, Roper River. We are all enjoying a delightful change +of fresh meat from dry. It is a great treat, and the horse eats +remarkably well, although not quite so good as a bullock. At sundown the +meat is not all quite dry, but I think we shall be able to preserve the +greater part of it. The natives are still burning the grass round about +us, but they have not made their appearance either yesterday or to-day. +Wind variable. + +Monday, 30th June, Roper River. Started at 8.10, course west, following +up the river, which winds about very much from north-west to south, and +at last to south-east. When coming close to where the grass was on fire, +finding a good ford, I crossed the party to the north-east side. At +fifteen miles came upon a large reedy swamp through which the river +seemed to flow, and again at twenty miles came upon the river running +into the swamp, and coming from the north-north-west. Although travelling +twenty miles we have not made more than ten miles in a straight line; the +general course is west. The country is of the same excellent description. +We have passed the stony rises on the north side of the river, which are +covered with grass to their tops. After crossing the river I ascended +another of the same kind. To the south are a few hills scattered over the +grassy plains, with lines of dark-green trees between them, showing that +they are creeks flowing into the river whose junctions we have been +crossing to-day; the same to the south-west, and at west 20" south the +distance appears level, with a single peak just visible. To the +north-west seemingly stony hills; to the north the same; to the east I +could see nothing, for the smoke conceals from me the country; it is all +on fire. The river is still running very rapidly, and as this is a +different branch from those previously discovered, I have named it the +River Chambers, after my late lamented friend, James Chambers, Esquire, +whose zeal in the cause of Australian exploration is already well known. +A short time before sundown a number of natives were seen approaching the +camp. We were immediately prepared for them. I sent Mr. Kekwick forward +to see what their intentions were--friendly or hostile. I immediately +followed. On reaching them they appeared quite friendly. There were three +men, four lubras, and a number of children. One, an old man, presented a +very singular appearance--his legs being about four feet long, and his +entire height seven feet, and so remarkably thin that he appeared to be a +perfect shadow. Mr. Kekwick having a fish-hook stuck in his hat, which +immediately caught the tall old fellow's eye, he made signs of its use, +and that he would like to possess it. I told Mr. Kekwick to give it to +him, which seemed to please him much. After examining it he handed it +over to a young man, seemingly his son, who was a fat, stout fellow, and +who was laughing nearly all the time. The other was a middle-aged man of +the ordinary height. The women were small, and very ugly. Wind, +south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47 minutes 24 seconds. + +Tuesday, 1st July, Reedy Swamp, River Chambers. Before sunrise the +natives again made their appearance, sixteen in number, with small +spears. Sent Mr. Kekwick to see what they wanted. On his coming up to +them they put two fingers in their mouths, signifying that they wanted +more fish-hooks, but we had no more to spare. They remained looking at us +until the horses were packed and started. After Thring and Frew had +brought in the horses, they rode up to where they were. They (the +natives) did not fancy being too near the horses, but having dismounted, +it gave them confidence, and they returned again. Thring opened the lips +of one of the horses, and showed them his teeth, the appearance of which +did not suit their taste. Some of them thought the further off they were +from such weapons the better, and ran off the moment they saw them. +Others remained, but kept at a respectful distance. Thring pulled a +handful of grass, and it amused them much to see the horses eating it. +After starting they followed us for some miles, when Mr. Waterhouse, +observing a new pigeon, shot it. They, not liking the report of the gun, +went off, and we saw no more of them. Started at 8.20, following the +river on a course 30 degrees east of north. After a mile it gradually +came round to the south-east, and was a running stream in that direction. +As that course would take me too much out of my road, I changed my +bearing to north-west, to an opening between the hills. After passing a +number of fine ponds, many of them with water in them, came upon a large +creek, having long reaches of water in it, but not running. It winds +about a great deal. Its general course to-day has been west-north-west. +The reedy swamp must be a mass of springs, which causes the Roper to run +with such velocity. A little after one o'clock camped. The journey to-day +has been rough, having so many small creeks to cross, and the day being +excessively hot, the horses seem fagged. They have been covered with +sweat since shortly after starting until now, and as some of the drowned +horse is not quite dry, I have halted earlier than I intended. The +country gone over to-day is of the same kind, beautiful soil, covered +with grass. We occasionally met with stony hills coming down to the +creek, also well grassed and timbered to their tops. Wind west, with +heavy clouds from the south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 41 minutes 39 +seconds. + +Wednesday, 2nd July, West-north-west of Reedy Swamp, River Chambers. +Started 7.40, following the river up until ten o'clock. We kept nearly a +north-west course: it then went off to the south-west; as that would take +me too much out of my course, I kept the north-west course, crossing the +saddle of broken hills, amongst which we have now got; and at twelve +again met the river, now coming from the north through the hills, +following it still, having plenty of water. At a very large water hole +surprised some natives, who ran off at full speed when the rear of the +party was passing their camp. One stout fellow came running up, armed +with spears, and loaded with fish and bags filled with something to eat. +Mr. Kekwick rode towards him. The native held up a green bough as a flag +of truce, and patting his heart with his right hand, said something which +could not be understood, and pointed in the direction we were going. We +then bade him good-bye, and proceeded on our journey. At one o'clock the +river suddenly turned to the east, coming from very rough hills of +sandstone and other rocks. At one mile and a half on that course it was +coming from the south of east, which will not do for me. Changed to the +north, and got into some terrible rough stony hills with grassy valleys +between, but not a drop of water. It being now after two o'clock, too +late to encounter crossing the table land, I again changed my course to +south-east for the Chambers, and at 5.3 camped at a large water hole at +the foot of a stony rise lined with cabbage (palm) trees. The country +although rough is well grassed to the top of the hills, with an abundance +of permanent water in the river. I am sorry it is coming from the +south-east, and have been in hopes it would carry me through this degree +of latitude. To follow it further is only losing time; I shall therefore +take to the hills to-morrow. Frew, on coming along, picked up a small +turtle alive. Light wind from the south-east; heavy clouds from the +south-west. Latitude, 14 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds. + +Thursday, 3rd July, River Chambers. Started at 8.10 o'clock, north-west +course. At one mile and a half again struck the river coming from the +west-north-west; left it and followed its north-west course: and at +another mile again came upon it with plenty of water. Saw four natives, +who ran off the moment they saw us. Followed the river, the hill coming +quite close to it, very steep and rocky, composed of a hard sandstone, +and occasionally a little ironstone. At nine miles again left the river, +finding it was coming too much from the eastward; crossed the saddle of +the two spurs again; came upon a creek, which I think is the river; ran +it up to the west for about a mile, but no appearance of water; left it, +and ascended a very rough rugged hill. In the creek we have just left +there is a deal of limestone. Crossed three more small spurs and small +creeks, but not a drop of water. It being now afternoon, and wishing to +see from what direction the river is coming, I changed to north-east, but +found that I was still among the rough hills; I then went east for a +short distance, and made the river, now quite dry, and having a sandy +bed. Followed it up, but saw there was no hope of water; turned, and +traced it down to try and find water. After following it for three miles, +came upon a fine permanent hole of water, a short distance from where we +left in the former part of the day. If it would only rain and put some +water in the deep dry holes that are in the other creeks crossed to-day, +I should then be enabled to steer a straight line for the Adelaide. It is +very tedious and tiresome having to look for water every day. We have now +reached to the top of one of the tributaries of the Chambers. This is +apparently the last water. It seems to take its rise in a grassy plain to +the east of this. The valley through which the creek flows is well +grassed, but the sides and the tops of the hills are spinifex mixed with +grass. All the small valleys are well grassed. Wind, south-east. +Latitude, 14 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds. + +Friday, 4th July, Last Water Hole in the Chambers. Started at 8.10, +course north-west, following up the river to its sources. At four miles +ascended a rise, which was very rough, composed of sandstone, ironstone, +and limestone, with ironstone gravel on the top. Descended on the other +side, and at about five miles came upon a nice running stream, but very +rough and stony round about it. After crossing several stony rises, in +which we had some difficulty in getting our horses over, arrived at a +nice broad valley with a creek running through it, course north-west. At +a mile it received a large tributary from the east of north, and the bed +seems sandy; melaleuca and gum-trees in it; also the bean-tree. The +valley is covered with grass from two to four feet high. There is a ridge +of rough sandy stone hills, with occasional ironstone on each side, from +the direction it was at first taken. I thought I was fortunate in meeting +with one of the sources of the Alligator or Adelaide River. After +following it for five miles, sometimes going west and south, it went +through a stony gorge, and seemed to run to the south, which is a great +disappointment. I ascended one of the hills to view the country, but +could see very little, it being so thickly wooded. To the north is the +appearance of a range running to the east and west that I must endeavour +to cross to-morrow if I do not find another creek running to the +north-west. There is one benefit I shall derive from following down this +creek a day; it will enable me to round the very rough sandstone range +that runs on the north side of the creek. It is so rough that I could not +take the horses over it. Camped at the gorge of this creek, which I +suppose, from the course it is now taking, to be another tributary of the +Chambers. The gorge is impassable for horses. It has a very picturesque +appearance; immense masses of rock--some thousands of tons in +weight--which had fallen from the top of the cliff into the bed of the +creek. Mr. Kekwick found a number of new plants, among them a fine +climbing fern. Light winds, east. Plenty of permanent water in the creek. +Latitude, 14 degrees 25 minutes 8 seconds. + +Saturday, 5th July, Gorge on another West Branch of the River Chambers. +Started 8.15; course, 5 degrees west of north. After travelling two miles +over stony rises we ascended a low table land with coarse grass and a +little spinifex; at six miles came up to a high stony tent-hill, which I +ascended and named Mount Shillinglaw. All round are stony hills and +grassy valleys--dip of the country seemingly to the south. There is +apparently a continuous range in the distance to the north-west, the +Chambers range. Changed my course to 325 degrees, and at four miles +struck another large branch coming from the north-east, and running +apparently south--plenty of water in it. This I named the Waterhouse, in +honour of Mr. H.W. Waterhouse, naturalist to the expedition. Some of the +horses are become so lame on account of the stones they will not be able +to travel another day. I have camped early to have them shod, for on +Monday I intend taking a north-west course to strike the source of the +Adelaide. The country on the last course is again of the very best +description and well grassed. The hills are stony, but abound with grass; +they are composed of sandstone, ironstone, and occasionally a little +limestone; the trees are the same as those on the Roper. Wind, +south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds. + +Sunday, 6th July, The Waterhouse River. Day again very hot. There is +another branch a short distance off, which seems to come from the +north-west; I shall follow it to-morrow if it continues the same course. +I think these creeks we are now crossing must be the sources of the +Adelaide flowing towards the dry river seen by Mr. Gregory running +towards the north-west. Wind light; sky cloudy. + +Monday, 7th July, Waterhouse River. Started at 7.55; course, north-west. +At four miles the creek was coming from the west, north-east, and east; I +therefore left it, crossed two low stony rises, and again struck another +creek coming from the north-east, with plenty of water; followed it for a +short distance to the west, found it so boggy and the body of water so +large that I could not get the party round the stony hills. Returned +about half a mile, and crossed the stony rise, and again struck it. At +eight miles came upon a number of springs coming from the stony rises. +Ascended one of the rises, which are not high, and found myself on a +sandy table land, which continued for six miles, having coarse grass and +spinifex growing on it. Towards the last two miles it again became well +grassed. The timber is stringy-bark, some splendid trees; amongst them +gums and a number of pines, also very fine. The cabbage palm still +growing in the creeks in great numbers, some of them very tall, with +several branches on the top. The first eight miles was again over a +splendid country, and the last three of the same description. A stony +hill being in my course, I proceeded to the top of it, from which I had a +good view of the country before me. This hill I named after Lieutenant +Helpman. At 10 degrees south of west are two remarkable isolated table +hills, Mount Levi and Mount Watts, beyond which is the Chambers range to +the north-west; my view in other directions is obstructed by other hills, +but to the west about one mile and a half is seemingly a creek, to which +I shall go, and if there is water I shall camp. Proceeded and found it a +fine creek with plenty of water; followed it about one mile to the +north-west, when it became dry. There it seems to come from the south. +There are a great number of cabbage palms on its banks. I hope it will +soon come round to the north-west and continue on that course. Light +winds, variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 9 minutes 31 seconds. + +Tuesday, 8th July, Water Creek in Stony Rises. Started at 7.40 a.m., +course north-west; followed the creek a little way, but found it was +running too much to the west of my course; left it and proceeded to the +north-west, crossing some stony rises, now composed of granite and +ironstone, with occasionally some hard sandstone. Crossing three small +creeks running to the west, at six miles came upon a large one with broad +and long sheets of permanent water coming from the north-north-east, and +apparently running to the south-west. This I have named the Fanny, in +honour of Miss Fanny Chambers, eldest daughter of John Chambers, Esquire. +In a small tree on this creek the skull of a very young alligator was +found by Mr. Auld. The trees in this creek are melaleuca and gum, with +some others. Proceeded across the creek, still going north-west; ascended +two stony rises, and got upon low table land with spinifex and grass, +passing two stony hills, one on each side of my course. At eighteen miles +struck the head of a small creek flowing nearly on my course; followed it +down in search of water, now through a basaltic country. At two miles +came upon another large creek, having a running stream to the south of +west, and coming from the north of east. Timber, melaleuca, palm, and +gum, with some of other descriptions. This I have named the Katherine, in +honour of the second daughter of James Chambers, Esquire. The country +gone over to-day, although there is a mile or two of light sandy soil, is +good for pasturage purposes; in the valley it is of the finest +description. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 58 minutes 30 +seconds. + +Wednesday, 9th July, The Katherine. Started at five minutes to eight +o'clock, crossing the Katherine, and proceeded on a north-west course +over a basaltic country, splendidly grassed. At five miles I ascended a +high hill, which I named Mount Stow, but was disappointed in the view. +West-north-west course, over a great number of rises thickly timbered +with gum. At 20 degrees north of west is a high bluff point of the range; +the country on that bearing does not seem to be so rough. No more visible +but the range to the west and the hill between. Descended, and changed my +course to the bluff point. At one mile and a half crossed a creek with +water in it, coming from the north-east, and running to the south-west. +At three miles further arrived at the bluff. The basaltic country has now +suddenly changed to slate, limestone, sandstone, and a hard white stone. +Crossed three stony rises, and got upon a white sandy rise, with large +stringy-bark trees growing upon it; and there seemingly being a creek at +the foot of it, from the number of green gums and palm-trees, I went down +to it, and found it to be springy ground, now quite dry, although the +grass was quite green. Proceeded on the westerly course, expecting to +meet with a creek; found none, but large springs coming from sandy rises. +Having found water at thirteen miles, and being so very unwell that I +cannot proceed, I have been compelled to camp. There is an immense +quantity of water coming from these springs; the soil round them is of +the best deep black alluvial. About a mile to the west is a strong stream +running to the south-west from them. I have called them Kekwick Springs, +in honour of my chief officer. Wind light and variable. Latitude, 13 +degrees 54 minutes 12 seconds. + +Thursday, 10th July, Kekwick's Large Group of Springs. Started at eight +o'clock; crossed the springs without getting any of the horses bogged. +Proceeded on a north-west course, but at a mile and a half again came +upon springs and running water; the ground too boggy to cross it. Changed +to north; at three miles and a half on the course changed to north-west. +Ascended some very rough stony hills, and got on the top of sandy table +land thick with splendid stringy-bark, pines, and other trees and shrubs, +amongst which, for the first time, we have seen the fan palm, some of +them growing upwards of fifteen feet high; the bark on the stem is marked +similar to a pineapple's; the leaf very much resembles a lady's fan set +on a long handle, and, a short time after it is cut, closes in the same +manner. At half-past one crossed the table land--breadth thteen miles. +The view was beautiful. Standing on the edge of a precipice, we could see +underneath, lower down, a deep creek thickly wooded running on our +course; then the picturesque precipitous gorge in the table land; then +the gorge in the distance; to the north-west were ranges of hills. The +grass on the table land is coarse, mixed with a little spinifex; about +half of it had been burnt by the natives some time ago. We had to search +for a place to descend, and had great difficulty in doing so, but at last +accomplished it without accident. The valley near the creek, which is a +running stream, is very thickly wooded with tall stringy-bark, gums, and +other kinds of palm-trees, which are very beautiful, the stem growing +upwards of fifty feet high, the leaves from eight to ten feet in length, +with a number of long smaller ones growing from each side, resembling an +immense feather; a great number of these shooting out from the top of the +high stems, and falling gracefully over, has a very pretty, light, and +elegant appearance. Followed the creek for about two miles down this +gorge, and camped on an open piece of ground. The top course of the table +land is a layer of magnetic ironstone, which attracted my compass upwards +of 20 degrees; underneath is a layer of red sandstone, and below that is +an immense mass of white sandstone, which is very soft, and crumbling +away with the action of the atmosphere. In the valley is growing an +immense crop of grass, upwards of four feet high; the cabbage palm is +still in the creek. We have seen a number of new shrubs and flowers. The +course of the table land is north-north-west and south-south-east. The +cliffs, from the camp in the valley, seem to be from two hundred and +fifty to three hundred feet high. Beyond all doubt we are now on the +Adelaide river. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 44 minutes 14 +seconds. + +Friday, 11th July, Adelaide River, North-west Side, Table Land. The +horses being close at hand, I got an early start at 7.20, course +north-west. In a mile I got greatly bothered by the boggy ground, and +numbers of springs coming from the table land, which I am obliged to +round. At two miles got clear of them, and proceeded over a great number +of stony rises, very steep; they are composed of conglomerate quartz, +underneath which is a course of slates, the direction of which is +north-west, and lying very nearly perpendicular, and also some courses of +ironstone, and a sharp rectangular hard grey flint stone. My horses being +nearly all without shoes, it has lamed a great many of them, and, having +struck the river again at fifteen miles, I camped. They have had a very +hard day's journey. The country is nearly all burnt throughout, but those +portions which have escaped the fire are well grassed. I should think +this is a likely place to find gold in, from the quantity of quartz, its +colour, and having so lately passed a large basaltic and granite country; +the conglomerate quartz being bedded in iron, and the slate +perpendicular, are good signs. The stony rises are covered with +stringy-bark, gum, and other trees, but not so tall and thick as on the +table land and close to it, except in the creek, where it is very large; +the melaleuca is also large. Since leaving the table land we have nearly +lost the beautiful palms; there are still a few at this camp, but they +are not growing so high; the cabbage palm is still in the creek and +valleys. Light winds from south-east. Country burning all round. +Latitude, 13 degrees 38 minutes 24 seconds. This branch I have named the +Mary, in honour of Miss Mary Chambers. + +Saturday, 12th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.30; course, +north-west. At one mile and a half came upon a running stream coming from +the north-east; had great difficulty in getting the horses across, the +banks being so boggy. One got fixed in it and was nearly drowned; in an +hour succeeded in getting them all safe across. At six miles I ascended a +high, tall, and stony hill; the view is not good, except to the westward. +In that direction there is seemingly a high range in the far distance, +appearing to run north and south; the highest point of the end of the +range is west, to which the river seems to tend. My horse being so lame +for the want of shoeing, I shall strike in for the river and follow it +for another two miles, as it seems to run so much to the westward. I have +resolved to use some of the horseshoes I have been saving to take me back +over the stony country of South Australia. To enable McGorrerey to get +them all shod on the front feet before Monday, I have camped. There is +still a slaty range on each side of the river, with quartz hills close +down to it; the timber the same as yesterday. The country has recently +all been burned; but, judging from the small patches that have escaped, +has been well grassed up to the pass of the hills. The valley and banks +of the creeks are of beautiful alluvial soil. One new feature seen to-day +is the growing of large clumps of bamboo on the banks of the river, from +fifty to sixty feet in height and about six inches in diameter at the +butt. I am now on one of the tributaries of the Adelaide River. There +must have been a dreadful fire here a few days ago; it has destroyed +everything before it, except the green trees, to the edge of the water. +Slight winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 35 minutes 58 seconds. + +Sunday, 13th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Shoeing horses. Wind blowing +strong; variable from all points of the compass. + +Monday, 14th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. One of the horses cannot be +found this morning, and he has been for some time very ill and weak, and +no appearance of getting better. It was my intention to have left him. We +have been all round the tracks forward and backward over the +feeding-ground and can see nothing of him. I am afraid he has gone off to +some place and died; I shall therefore waste no more time in looking for +him. If he is alive I may have a chance of recovering him on my return. +Late start, in consequence of so long looking for him. As I have now got +all the horses shod on the front feet, I shall proceed on a north-west +course through the stony rises, which are still quartz and slate, +splendidly grassed, with gums and other trees and bushes not too thick to +get through with ease. Crossed six small creeks, one with holes with +water in them; the third one, a large creek, which I crossed at nine +miles, I have named William Creek, after the second son of John Chambers, +Esquire, of Adelaide; all running at right angles to my course. +Immediately after crossing this last creek the country changed to +granite; the rises are composed of immense blocks of it, with +occasionally some quartz. The country has been all burned. The valleys +between the granite rises are broad and of first-rate soil, many of them +are quite green, caused by springs oozing from the granite rock. We have +passed a number of trees resembling the iron-bark, also some like new +ones, and many shrubs which Mr. Kekwick has found. Wind, south-east. +Latitude, 13 degrees 29 minutes 25 seconds. + +Tuesday, 15th July, Billiatt Springs. I have named these springs in token +of my approbation of Billiatt's thoughtful, generous, and unselfish +conduct throughout the expedition. I started at 7.40 this morning, course +north-west. Crossed granite and quartz rises, with broad valleys between, +both splendidly grassed. At three miles crossed a small creek with water; +at another mile the same creek again; one also to my line on the +south-west side, and immediately went off to the south-west. At six miles +the river came close to the line, and immediately went off to the west. +Continued on my course through granite and quartz country, splendidly +grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and gums, pines, palms, +nut-trees, and a wattle bush, which in some places was rather thick, but +not at all difficult to get through. At ten miles again struck the river; +it is now apparently running to the north. Changed to that course, but it +soon left me. At three miles and a half on the north course struck +another creek running from the range north-east; it has an abundance of +water, and is rather boggy. King's horse fell with him in it, but did no +further injury than giving him a wetting. A few of the other horses +stumbled and rolled about in it for a short time, but we got them all +across without accident. Changed to west of north; at half a mile reached +a saddle between two hills, and ascended the one to the west, the river +now running between ranges to the west; they seemed a good deal broken, +with some high points to the north-west. There is a higher one, seemingly +running north and south, with apparently a plain between about four miles +broad, on which are four or five lines of dark trees; this leads me to +suppose that the river is divided. The plain being very thickly timbered, +I could not see distinctly which was the main channel. Descended, and +proceeded on a north-west course. At one mile and a half struck the +river, again running north; changed to that, and at two miles and a half +camped. The country is now all burnt. I am obliged to stop where I can +get feed for the horses. One of the channels comes close to the bank, +east side, about six yards wide and two feet deep; bed sandy. The main +channel must be in the middle of the plain. The hill I ascended to-day +has been under the influence of fire; it is composed of quartz, and a +hard dark-coloured stone; the quartz runs in veins throughout it, in +places crystalline, and formed into spiral and many-sided figures; in +places there is a crust of iron, as if it had been run between the +stones, that is also crystalline. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees +17 minutes 22 seconds. + +Wednesday, 16th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.40, course +north. The river runs off again to the north-west, and I have passed over +an undulating country, all burnt, but the soil of the richest +description. The rises are comprised of quartz and a hard white stone, +with occasionally a little ironstone. At three miles crossed a creek with +water holes. At five miles crossed another. At seven miles came close to +a high hill--ascended it; at the foot it is composed of a hard slaty +stone covered with a cake of iron; about the middle is quartz, and on the +top conglomerated quartz. The view from south-west to north-west is +extensive, but this not being the highest hill, the rest is hidden. To +the west is a high hill, bluff at both ends, seemingly the last hill of +the range; its course apparently north-west and south-east. At this bluff +hill the range seems to cease, or drops into lower hills. A branch of the +river lies between it and me, but there are still a number of stony hills +before I can reach it. To the north-west and north there are high and +stony hills. The river now seems to run to the west, on a bearing of 30 +degrees north of west. From twenty to twenty-five miles distant is +another range, at the foot of which there is a blue stripe, apparently +water, which I suppose to be the main stream of the Adelaide. Descended, +as the country is too rough and stony to continue either to the north or +north-west. I changed to 3 degrees north of west, crossed some stony +hills and broad valleys with splendid alluvial soil, the hills grassed to +the top. On that course struck the branch of the river. Still very thick +with the same kind of timber already mentioned. Most of the bamboos are +dead. I suppose the fire has been the cause of it. I again find it +running to the north; I turn to that course. At three miles struck a +large creek coming from the east with large sheets of water; had to run +it up half a mile before I could get across it. Crossed it all right, and +passed through a beautiful valley of green grass. After that, found that +I was again on the stony rise, where every blade of grass had been burned +off, and not knowing how far this may continue, I have turned off again +for the creek, to give the horses the benefit of the valley. The timber +is the same as yesterday in some places; the stringy-bark is much larger. +The banks of the river, when we first came upon it to-day, were high and +stony. The range to the east seems to cease about here. We are now +crossing low undulations. I have seen a number of kangaroos to-day; they +do not seem to be as large as those in the south. The valleys are +composed of conglomerated ironstone underneath the soil. A large number +of new birds seen to-day, some of them with splendid plumage. Wind, +south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees 7 minutes 21 seconds. + +Thursday, 17th July, Tide Creek, Adelaide River. Started at eight +o'clock, course north-west; passed over some stony hills, small creeks, +and valleys well grassed. At three miles again met with the branch of the +river, with bamboos and trees of the same description as before, a +running stream, but not so rapid. At five miles, observing an open plain +among the trees, and the river trending more to the westward, I changed +my course to it, 15 degrees west of north; found it to be open plain, of +rich alluvial soil in places; at times it seemed to be subject to +inundation, I suppose the drainage from the range to the eastward, which +is distant about four miles. I am pleased it has been burnt, but where it +has not the grass is most abundant; where the water seems to remain it is +rather coarse. The plains are studded with lines of green gum-trees, and +the cabbage palms are numerous, which give them a very pretty park-like +appearance. They continued for ten miles, when we made a small stony +hill; we met with a large creek, with large holes of water in it, and +supposing I had got upon the plain that ran to the sea-coast, and seeing +those I had passed over so dry, camped; and having sent Thring to a rise +to see where the river is, he returned, but can see nothing of it, but +reports high hills to the north-west. I am glad of this, for it is not my +intention to follow the river round if I can get water in other places, +for it has already been well described south of this by Lieutenant +Helpman when he came up in a boat, and I wish to see what the country is +away from its banks. Wind south-east, with a few clouds from the north. +For the last week the weather has been excellent, not too hot during the +day, and cool and refreshing at night. The mosquitoes are very annoying, +and the flies during the day are a perfect torment. This creek I have +called Priscilla Creek. Latitude, 12 degrees 56 minutes 54 seconds. + +Friday, 18th July, Priscilla Creek. Started at 8.15, course north-west. +Passed over grassy plains and stony rise; when, at three miles, seeing +the termination of a range in a bluff point, changed my course to 310 +degrees. Proceeded, still crossing stony hills, consisting of ironstone, +slate, and a hard white rock, which is broken into rectangular fragments; +also over broad valleys, which are covered with grass that when green +must have stood very high, but is now so dry that it breaks off before +the horses. My horse being first, collects so much on his front legs that +I have been obliged to stop, pull him back, and allow it to fall, so that +he may step over it, go on, get another load, and do the same. At six +miles and a half, after crossing a plain, crossed a deep bamboo creek; +this I have named Ellen Creek. Proceeded over two other stony rises and +valleys of the same description, and came upon extensive plains, well +grassed, and of beautiful alluvial soil; crossing them towards the bluff +point at fifteen miles, came upon the Adelaide between me and the bluff, +which is about a mile further on; the river is about eighty yards wide, +and so still that I could not see which way the current was. I suppose +its being high tide was the cause of this. The banks are thickly lined +with bamboo, very tall and stout, very steep, and twelve feet down to the +water's edge; the water appeared to be of great depth, and entirely free +from snags or fallen timber. The range on the opposite side of the river, +for which I was directing my course, being the highest I have seen in +this new country, I have named it after His Excellency the +Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, Daly Range, and its highest peak to +the north Mount Daly. Before reaching the river, at thirteen miles, we +passed a high conspicuous tent hill, at right angle, north-east to our +line; this I have named Mount Goyder, after the Surveyor-General of South +Australia. Followed the river on a north course for about a mile, when I +was stopped by a deep side creek of thick bamboo, with water; turned to +the east, rounded the bamboo, but found myself in a boggy marsh, which I +could not cross. This marsh is covered with fine grass, in black alluvial +soil, in which is growing a new kind of lily, with a large broad +heart-shaped leaf a foot or more across; the blossoms are six inches +high, resemble a tulip in shape, and are of a deep brilliant rose colour; +the seeds are contained in a vessel resembling the rose of a +watering-pot, with the end of each egg-shaped seed showing from the +holes, and the colour of this is a bright yellow. The marsh is studded +with a great number of melaleuca-trees, tall and straight. As I could not +cross, I had to round it, which took me a little more than an hour; when +I got upon some low undulating rises, not far from Mount Goyder, composed +of conglomerate ironstone and ironstone gravel, which seem to produce the +springs which supply the marsh. Camped on the side of the marsh, to give +the horses the benefit of the green grass, for some of them are still +troubled with worms, and are very poor and miserable, and I have no +medicine to give them, and there is not a blade of grass on the banks of +the river--all has been burnt within the last four days. Native smoke in +every direction. Wind south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 12 degrees +49 minutes 30 seconds. + +Saturday, 19th July, Lily Marsh, Adelaide River. Started at 9.10, course +20 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed some stony rises and +broad alluvial grassy valleys; at four miles met the river, had to go +half a mile to the south-east to round it. Again changed to my first +course; at seven miles and a half crossed a creek with water. The country +to this is good, with occasionally a little ironstone and gravel, timber +of stringy-bark, and a little low gum scrub. Having crossed this creek, +we ascended a sandy table land with an open forest of stringy bark (good +timber), palms, gums, other trees and bushes; it has been lately burnt, +but the roots of the grass abound. This continued for about three miles. +There is a small stony range of hills to the west, which at the end of +the three miles dropped into a grassy plain of a beautiful black alluvial +soil, covered with lines and groves of the cabbage palm trees, which give +it a very picturesque appearance; its dip is towards the river; in two +miles crossed it, and again ascended low table land of the very same +description as the other. At fourteen miles struck another creek with +water, and camped. The country gone over to-day, though not all of the +very best description, has plains in it of the very finest kind--even the +sandy table-land bears an abundant crop of grass. The trees are so thick +that I can get no view of the surrounding country; the tall beautiful +palm grows in this creek. Native smoke about, but we have not seen any +natives. There are large masses of volcanic rock on the sides of this +creek. At about a mile to the eastward is a large body of springs that +supply water to this creek, which I have named Anna Creek. Camped at ten +minutes to three o'clock. Wind variable. Latitude, 12 degrees 39 minutes +7 seconds. + +Sunday, 20th July, Anna Creek. The mosquitoes at this camp have been most +annoying; scarcely one of us has been able to close his eyes in sleep +during the whole night: I never found them so bad anywhere--night and day +they are at us. The grass in, and on the banks of, this creek is six feet +high; to the westward there are long reaches of water, and the creek very +thickly timbered with melaleuca, gum, stringy-bark, and palms. Wind, +south-east. + +Monday, 21st July, Anna Creek and Springs. Again passed a miserable night +with the mosquitoes. Started at eight o'clock; course, north-north-west. +At three miles came upon another extensive fresh-water marsh, too boggy +to cross. There is rising ground to the north-west and north; the river +seems to run between. I can see clumps of bamboos and trees, by which I +suppose it runs at about a mile to the north-north-west. The ground for +the last three miles is of a sandy nature, and light-brown colour, with +ironstone gravel on the surface, volcanic rock occasionally cropping out. +The borders of the marsh are of the richest description of black alluvial +soil, and when the grass has sprung after it has been burnt, it has the +appearance of a rich and very thick crop of green wheat. I am now +compelled to alter my course to 30 degrees south of east, to get across a +water creek coming into the marsh, running deep, broad and boggy, and so +thick with trees, bushes, and strong vines interwoven throughout it, that +it would take a day to cut a passage through. At three miles we crossed +the stream, and proceeded again on the north-north-west course, but at a +mile and a half were stopped by another creek of the same description. +Changed to east, and at half a mile was able to cross it also, and again +went on my original bearing. Continued on it for three miles, when we +were again stopped by another running stream, but this one I was able to +cross without going far out of my course. Proceeded on the +north-north-west course, passing over elevated ground of the same +description as the first three miles. At seventeen miles came upon a +thick clump of trees, with beautiful palms growing amongst them; examined +it and found it to have been a spring, but now dry. Proceeded on another +mile, and was again stopped by what seemed to be a continuation of the +large marsh; we now appeared to have got right into the middle of it. It +was to be seen to the south-west, north-east, and south-east of us. +Camped on a point of rising ground running into it. The timber on the +rises between the creeks is stringy-bark, small gums, and in places a +nasty scrub, very sharp, which tore a number of our saddle-bags: it is a +very good thing the patches of it are not broad. The grass, where it has +not been burned, is very thick and high--up to my shoulder when on +horseback. About a mile from here, to the west, I can see what appears to +be the water of the river, running through clumps of trees and bamboos, +beyond which, in the distance, are courses of low rising ground, in +places broken also with clumps of trees; the course of the river seems to +be north-north-west. On the east side of the marsh is also rising ground; +the marsh in that direction seems to run five or six miles before it +meets the rising ground, and appears after that to come round to the +north. Nights cool. Latitude, 12 degrees 28 minutes 19 seconds. Wind, +south-east. + +Tuesday, 22nd July, Fresh-water Marsh. As the marsh seems to run so much +to the east, and not knowing how much further I shall have to go to get +across the numerous creeks that appear to come into it, I shall remain +here to-day and endeavour to find a road through it to the river, and +follow up the banks if I can. I have a deal of work to do to the plan, +and our bags require mending. After collecting the horses Thring tried to +cross the marsh to the river, and succeeded in reaching its banks, +finding firm ground all the way; the breadth of the river here being +about a hundred yards, very deep, and running with some velocity, the +water quite fresh. He having returned with this information, I sent him, +King, and Frew, mounted on the strongest horses, to follow the banks of +the river till noon, to see if there is any obstruction to prevent my +travelling by its banks. In two hours they returned with the sad tidings +that the banks were broken down by watercourses, deep, broad, and boggy; +this is a great disappointment, for it will take me a day or two longer +than I expected in reaching the sea-coast, in consequence of having to go +a long way round to clear the marsh and creeks. The edge of the marsh was +still of the same rich character, and covered with luxuriant grass. The +rise we are camped on is also the same, with ironstone gravel on the +surface; this seems to have been a favourite camping-place for a large +number of natives. There is a great quantity of fish bones, mussel, and +turtle shells, at a little distance from the camp, close to where there +was some water. There are three poles fixed in the ground, forming an +equilateral triangle, on the top of which was a framework of the same +figure, over which were placed bars of wood: its height from the ground +eight feet. This has apparently been used by them for smoke-drying a dead +blackfellow. We have seen no natives since leaving the Roper, although +their smoke is still round about us. On and about the marsh are large +flocks of geese, ibis, and numerous other aquatic birds; they are so wild +that they will not allow us to come within shot of them. Mr. Kekwick has +been successful in shooting a goose; it has a peculiar-shaped head, +having a large horny lump on the top resembling a topknot, and only a +very small web at the root of his toes. The river opposite this, about a +yard from the bank, is nine feet deep. Wind variable. Night cool. + +Wednesday, 23rd July, Fresh-water Marsh. Started at 7.40, course 22 +degrees east of south, one mile, to round the marsh; thence one mile +south-east; thence east for six miles, when we struck a large creek, deep +and long reaches; thence three quarters of a mile south before we could +cross it. This I have named Thring Creek, in token of my approbation of +his conduct throughout the journey; thence east, one mile and a half; +thence north for nine miles, when I again struck the large marsh. Thring +Creek has been running nearly parallel with the north course until it +empties itself into the marsh. The country gone over to-day, after +leaving the side of the marsh, as well as the banks of the creek, and +also some small plains, is of the same rich description of soil covered +with grass; the other parts are slightly elevated, the soil light with a +little sand on the surface of a brown colour; timber, mixture of +stringy-bark and gums, with many others; also, a low thick scrub, which +has lately been burnt in many places, the few patches that have escaped +abounding in grass. I have come twelve miles to the eastward to try to +round the marsh, but have not been able to do so; the plains that were +seen from the river by those who came up it in boats is the marsh; it is +covered with luxuriant grass, which gives it the appearance of extensive +grassy plains. I have camped at where the Thring spreads itself over a +portion of the marsh. There is rising ground to the north-west, on the +opposite side, which I suppose to be a continuation of the elevated +ground I passed before crossing the creek, and the same that I saw +bearing north from the last camp. I suppose it runs in towards the river. +Wind, south. Latitude, 13 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds. + +Thursday, 24th July, Thring Creek, Entering the Marsh. Started at 7.40, +course north. I have taken this course in order to make the sea-coast, +which I suppose to be distant about eight miles and a half, as soon as +possible; by this I hope to avoid the marsh. I shall travel along the +beach to the north of the Adelaide. I did not inform any of the party, +except Thring and Auld, that I was so near to the sea, as I wished to +give them a surprise on reaching it. Proceeded through a light soil, +slightly elevated, with a little ironstone on the surface--the volcanic +rock cropping out occasionally; also some flats of black alluvial soil. +The timber much smaller and more like scrub, showing that we are nearing +the sea. At eight miles and a half came upon a broad valley of black +alluvial soil, covered with long grass; from this I can hear the wash of +the sea. On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a +quarter of a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very +dense, showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley, +and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped the +horses to clear a way, whilst I advanced a few yards on to the beach, and +was gratified and delighted to behold the water of the Indian Ocean in +Van Diemen Gulf, before the party with the horses knew anything of its +proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out "The Sea!" which +so took them all by surprise, and they were so astonished, that he had to +repeat the call before they fully understood what was meant. Then they +immediately gave three long and hearty cheers. The beach is covered with +a soft blue mud. It being ebb tide, I could see some distance; found it +would be impossible for me to take the horses along it; I therefore kept +them where I had halted them, and allowed half the party to come on to +the beach and gratify themselves by a sight of the sea, while the other +half remained to watch the horses until their return. I dipped my feet, +and washed my face and hands in the sea, as I promised the late Governor +Sir Richard McDonnell I would do if I reached it. The mud has nearly +covered all the shells; we got a few, however. I could see no sea-weed. +There is a point of land some distance off, bearing 70 degrees. After all +the party had had some time on the beach, at which they were much pleased +and gratified, they collected a few shells; I returned to the valley, +where I had my initials (J.M.D.S.) cut on a large tree, as I did not +intend to put up my flag until I arrived at the mouth of the Adelaide. +Proceeded, on a course of 302 degrees, along the valley; at one mile and +a half, coming upon a small creek, with running water, and the valley +being covered with beautiful green grass, I have camped to give the +horses the benefit of it. Thus have I, through the instrumentality of +Divine Providence, been led to accomplish the great object of the +expedition, and take the whole party safely as witnesses to the fact, and +through one of the finest countries man could wish to behold--good to the +coast, and with a stream of running water within half a mile of the sea. +From Newcastle Water to the sea-beach, the main body of the horses have +been only one night without water, and then got it within the next day. +If this country is settled, it will be one of the finest Colonies under +the Crown, suitable for the growth of any and everything--what a splendid +country for producing cotton! Judging from the number of the pathways +from the water to the beach, across the valley, the natives must be very +numerous; we have not seen any, although we have passed many of their +recent tracks and encampments. The cabbage and fan palm-trees have been +very plentiful during to-day's journey down to this valley. This creek I +named Charles Creek, after the eldest son of John Chambers, Esquire: it +is one by which some large bodies of springs discharge their surplus +water into Van Diemen Gulf; its banks are of soft mud, and boggy. Wind, +south. Latitude, 12 degrees 13 minutes 30 seconds. + +Friday, 25th July, Charles Creek, Van Diemen Gulf. I have sent Thring to +the south-west to see if he can get round the marsh. If it is firm ground +I shall endeavour to make the mouth of the river by that way. After a +long search he has returned and informs me that it is impracticable, +being too boggy for the horses. As the great object of the expedition is +now attained, and the mouth of the river already well known, I do not +think it advisable to waste the strength of my horses in forcing them +through, neither do I see what object I should gain by doing so; they +have still a very long and fatiguing journey in recrossing the continent +to Adelaide, and my health is so bad that I am unable to bear a long +day's ride. I shall, therefore, cross this creek and see if I can get +along by the sea-beach or close to it. Started and had great difficulty +in getting the horses over, although we cut a large quantity of grass, +putting it on the banks and on logs of wood which were put into it. We +had a number bogged, and I was nearly losing one of my best horses, and +was obliged to have him pulled out with ropes; after the loss of some +time we succeeded in getting them all over safely. Proceeded on a +west-north-west course over a firm ground of black alluvial soil. At two +miles came upon an open part of the beach, went on to it, and again found +the mud quite impassable for horses; in the last mile we have had some +rather soft ground. Stopped the party, as this travelling is too much for +the horses, and, taking Thring with me, rode two miles to see if the +ground was any firmer in places; found it very soft where the salt water +had covered it, in others not so bad. Judging from the number of shells +banked up in different places, the sea must occasionally come over this. +I saw at once that this would not do for the weak state in which my +horses were, and I therefore returned to where I had left the party, +resolving to recross the continent to the City of Adelaide. I now had an +open place cleared, and selecting one of the tallest trees, stripped it +of its lower branches, and on its highest branch fixed my flag, the Union +Jack, with my name sewn in the centre of it. When this was completed, the +party gave three cheers, and Mr. Kekwick then addressed me, +congratulating me on having completed this great and important +undertaking, to which I replied. Mr. Waterhouse also spoke a few words on +the same subject, and concluded with three cheers for the Queen and three +for the Prince of Wales. At one foot south from the foot of the tree is +buried, about eight inches below the ground, an air-tight tin case, in +which is a paper with the following notice: + +"South Australian Great Northern Exploring Expedition. + +"The exploring party, under the command of John McDouall Stuart, arrived +at this spot on the 25th day of July, 1862, having crossed the entire +Continent of Australia from the Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing +through the centre. They left the City of Adelaide on the 26th day of +October, 1861, and the most northern station of the Colony on 21st day of +January, 1862. To commemorate this happy event, they have raised this +flag bearing his name. All well. God save the Queen!" + +[Here follow the signatures of myself and party.] + +As this bay has not been named, I have taken this opportunity of naming +it Chambers Bay, in honour of Miss Chambers, who kindly presented me with +the flag which I have planted this day, and I hope this may be the first +sign of the dawn of approaching civilization. Exactly this day nine +months the party left North Adelaide. Before leaving, between the hours +of eleven and twelve o'clock, they had lunch at Mr. Chambers' house; John +Bentham Neals, Esquire, being present, proposed success to me, and wished +I might plant the flag on the north-west coast. At the same hour of the +day, nine months after, the flag was raised on the shores of Chambers +Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. On the bark of the tree on which the flag is placed +is cut--DIG ONE FOOT--S. We then bade farewell to the Indian Ocean, and +returned to Charles Creek, where we had again great difficulty in getting +the horses across, but it was at last accomplished without accident. We +have passed numerous and recent tracks of natives to-day; they are still +burning the country at some distance from the coast. Wind, south-east. +Latitude, 12 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. + +... + +RETURN. + +Saturday, 26th July, Charles Creek, Chambers Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. This +day I commence my return, and feel perfectly satisfied in my own mind +that I have done everything in my power to obtain as extensive a +knowledge of the country as the strength of my party will allow me. I +could have made the mouth of the river, but perhaps at the expense of +losing many of the horses, thus increasing the difficulties of the return +journey. Many of them are so poor and weak, from the effects of the +worms, that they have not been able for some time to carry anything like +a load, and I have been compelled to make the (symbol crescent over C) +horses stand the brunt of the work of the expedition. As yet not one of +them has failed; they have all done their work in excellent style. The +sea has been reached, which was the great object of the expedition, and a +practicable route found through a splendid country from Newcastle Water +to it, abounding, for a great part of the way, in running streams well +stocked with fish--and this has been accomplished at a season of the year +during which we have not had one drop of rain. Started, following my +tracks back. Passed my former camp on the Thring; went on and crossed it. +Proceeded on my east course to the west, about one mile and a half, to +some small green marshy plains of black alluvial soil, with a spring in +the centre, covered with fine green grass. Camped. Wind, south. Latitude, +12 degrees 30 minutes 21 seconds. + +Sunday, 27th July, Small Grassy Plains. Day rather warm; mosquitoes +terrible; no sleep last night; never found them so bad before; not a +breath of wind to drive them away. + +Monday, 28th July, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.40, course 25 +degrees west of south, for my camp of the eighteenth instant. At ten +miles struck my tracks, thus avoiding the boggy creeks that flow into the +large marsh. On this course passed five small black alluvial plains, +covered with grass, three of them having springs with water on the +surface. They lie between slightly elevated country of light-brown soil, +having stringy-bark and gums, with occasionally a thin scrub abounding in +grass. On the plains there is occasionally a little of the volcanic rock +cropping out. Followed my former tracks to the camp on the Lily Marsh, +and remained for the night. We all passed a miserable night with the +mosquitoes. My hands, wrists, and neck, were all blistered over with +their bites, and were most painful. + +Tuesday, 29th July, Lily Marsh. At half-past seven o'clock proceeded on +the track. Passed my camp of 17th instant, and arriving at the one of the +16th at four o'clock p.m., camped. Wind, south. + +Wednesday, 30th July, Side Creek, Adelaide River. All were delighted with +a comfortable night's rest--no mosquitoes. Proceeded to Billiatt Springs +and camped. One of the horses, Jerry, has been ill for the last three +weeks, and although he has not had anything to carry, it has been as much +as we could do to get him into the camp. This afternoon he gave in +altogether, and Mr. Kekwick was quite unable to get him a step further, +and was compelled to leave him about three miles back, where there is +some water and plenty of feed. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 31st July, Billiatt Springs. Proceeded and passed our camps of +13th and 12th instant. Crossed the Mary branch of the Adelaide: went +along the south side, expecting to avoid the boggy creek crossed on the +12th instant. When nearly opposite to it, camped. Found this part of the +branch deep, broad, and boggy; but I think we will be able to cross in +the morning by cutting down a number of cabbage palms, which are growing +very thick here. Light winds from south-east. + +Friday, 1st August, South Side of the Mary. Recrossed the Mary, which is +very boggy on the banks. We were enabled to cross it safely by cutting a +large quantity of long grass, laying it on the sides of the banks, with a +few logs and pickets driven into the bed to prevent the current from +carrying away the grass. In this we succeeded very well. After crossing I +found we had still to encounter the other running and boggy creek of the +12th ultimo; but, by repeating the same operation, we were successful. +Passed our camp of the 11th ultimo, and proceeded on towards the table +land. On approaching it, where the springs come from underneath, found it +very boggy; had some difficulty in getting the horses through it. Got +them all through with the exception of Frew's horse, which stuck hard and +fast in it, and we were obliged to pull him out, which was soon +accomplished, and we got him safe on terra firma. Continued along the +foot of the table land, and halted at our camp of the 10th ultimo. At +about seven p.m. last night I heard something plunging in the river; sent +down to see what it was; found two of the horses bogged, and unable to +extricate themselves. Got ropes, and all the party to pull them out. +After an hour's hard work succeeded. On coming near the table land the +country is all on fire, causing a dense black smoke and heated +atmosphere. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 2nd August, North-west Side of Table Land. Proceeded up the +creek to the gorge--where we came down from the top of the table land; +ascended it, which they all did well except one horse, which refused to +go up, and caused me to lose more than an hour with him; we had to take +all the things off him and carry them to the top on our backs. We had to +zigzag him backwards and forwards, and got him to the top after a deal of +trouble. Crossing on the top we met with a large fire about two miles +broad. The wind not being strong, nor the grass very long, we got through +it well, but my weak eyes suffered much from the smoke coming from the +burning logs, trees, and grass. The atmosphere very hot and almost +overpowering before we got through it. One of the horses knocked up, but +we were able to get him on to the running creek connected with Kekwick's +large group of springs, where I am obliged to camp and try to recover +him. This is the first one of the (symbol crescent over C) horses that +has failed; but he has not had fair play, through the negligence of the +man who had him. He has for some time been carrying a load of one hundred +and forty pounds without my knowledge, far more than he was able to +carry. He has been a good horse, and has done a deal of work. There are a +number of native tracks both up and down our tracks. One of the natives +seems to have a very large foot. Wind, south. + +Sunday, 3rd August, Kekwick's Large Springs. Last evening, just as the +sun was dipping, five natives made their appearance, armed with spears, +and came marching boldly up to within eighty yards of the camp, where +they were met by Mr. Kekwick and others of the party who had advanced to +meet them. They were all young men, small, and very thin. Seeing so many +approaching them they soon went off. They were all smeared over with +burnt grass, charcoal, or some other substance of that description. This +morning, shortly after sunrise, the same five again made their +appearance. I went up to them to see what they wanted. Saw that they had +painted their bodies with white stripes ready for war. As it is my +intention to pass peaceably through the different tribes, I endeavoured +to make friends with them by showing them we intended them no harm if +they will leave us alone. One of them had a curious fish spear, which he +seemed inclined to part with, and I sent Mr. Kekwick to get some +fish-hooks to exchange with him, which he readily did; we then left them. +They continuing a longer time than I wished, and gradually approaching +nearer to our camp, thinking perhaps they really did not wish to part +with the spear, I sent Mr. Kekwick back with it to them to see if that +was what they wanted, and to take the fish-hooks from them. But when they +saw what was intended, they gave back the spear and retained the hooks. +They offered another with a stone head upon the same terms, which was +accepted. Mr. Kekwick had a deal of trouble before he could get them to +move off, when they were joined by another, and then went off by twos. In +a short time they set fire to the grass all round us to try to burn us +out. Two of them came again close to the camp under pretence of looking +for game before the fire, at the same time setting fire to the grass +closer to us. But Mr. Kekwick and one of the others, seeing their +intention, ran up to them, who, on their approach, ran off, setting fire +to the grass as they went along, which gave us a deal of trouble in +putting out, as we wished to save as much feed for the horses as will do +for them till to-morrow morning; we have managed that, if they do not +come and set fire to it again. If they do I shall be compelled to use +preventive means with them, for I can stand it no longer; they must be +taught a lesson that we possess a little more power than they anticipate. +I would have moved on, but some of my horses are so ill that they are +unable to travel. If the natives we have seen to-day are a sample of +those that inhabit this country, they are certainly the smallest and most +miserable race of men that I have ever seen. In height about five feet, +their arms and legs remarkably thin, they do not seem to want the +inclination of doing mischief if they could get an opportunity, but they +find we are rather too watchful to give them a chance. From their manner +I have no doubt there were many more concealed, who intended attacking us +under cover of the smoke--indeed if they see us unprepared they may yet +do it before evening. At sundown they have not again made their +appearance. Wind, south. + +Monday, 4th August, Kekwick's Large springs. Proceeded to the Katherine +and camped. The horse that knocked up on Saturday gave in again two miles +before we arrived here, although the distance is only thirteen miles, and +he had a rest all Sunday. I shall be compelled to leave him here; he only +destroys other horses dragging him along, and as the season is so far +advanced, I am doubtful of the water in some of the ponds, and therefore +cannot stop with him. I have been so very unwell to-day, with symptoms of +fever, that I could scarcely reach this place; but I hope I shall be +better by to-morrow. Nights and mornings are now very cold, but the sun +is very hot during the middle and afterpart of the day. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 5th August, The Katherine. Leaving the knocked-up horse behind, +proceeded to the Fanny, and camped. It was as much as I could do to sit +in the saddle this distance. Wind, south. + +Wednesday, 6th August, The Fanny. Proceeded to the Waterhouse and camped. +The natives have been along our track, and burned the grass to within +three miles of our camp. On arriving here I was much disappointed on +finding all the water gone, but, following back the north-west branch, I +found enough for our use to-night and to-morrow morning. The country is +all on fire to the south-east. Wind, variable. The journey has been +rather rough and stony, and my weak horses feel it very much. I am afraid +I shall be compelled to leave some more of them behind. I cannot now stay +for them to recover, after seeing the rapidity with which this water has +dried up. A long delay will cause my retreat to be cut off in the pond +country. Wind, south-east. There is still permanent water up the +north-west branch of this creek. + +Thursday, 7th August, The Waterhouse. Started at half-past seven, and at +two minutes past ten o'clock I arrived at the running stream (the +Chambers) of the 4th ultimo and camped. Weak horses looking very bad. +Country on fire round about us. A number of natives have been following +on our former tracks. Wind, south. + +Friday, 8th August, Running Stream, The Chambers. Crossed the hard +sandstone range, and got upon the branch of the Chambers that I followed +up, passing our camp of 3rd ultimo, with plenty of permanent water. +Followed it down to our camp of the 2nd ultimo and remained there. Had to +leave one of the done-up horses about two miles behind. Another horse +gave in, and it was as much as Mr. Kekwick could do to get him thus far. +The natives have burned all the grass throughout this day's journey. A +little has escaped at this camp, and I am now compelled to give my horses +a rest until Monday morning. I thought they would have been able to carry +me across the Chambers before I gave them a rest, but, if I proceed +further, I shall lose more of them. The weather is beginning to be again +very hot in the middle of the day. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 9th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. Day hot. Wind +variable. + +Sunday, 10th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. I have sent Thring +to bring up the one that was left behind on Friday; in a short time he +brought him up, looking a most deplorable picture; the other one that +gave in the same day is quite as bad. I shall have to leave them behind; +it is only destroying other horses to force them along. I must also +reduce the weight the others are carrying, to enable them to get along. I +have had all the saddle-bags overhauled, and shall leave everything we +can possibly do without--even boots and clothes belonging to the party +have not been spared; all were quite willing to sacrifice anything they +had, with the exception of one who had a pair of new boots he had never +put on. I told him to put them on, and leave the old ones, but he +immediately told me that he had got a bad foot; I very soon cured him of +that by telling him if that was the case he might leave the new ones. I +have managed to leave about three hundredweight; many of the things I can +ill spare, but I hope by doing this to be able in a short time to push on +a little quicker. Light winds, variable. + +Monday, 11th August, River Chambers. Two of the horses having strayed +this morning, it was a quarter past nine before I could get a start. I +had to proceed very slowly, in consequence of five of the horses being so +ill that they were unable to walk quickly. Proceeded on my former tracks, +cutting off the bends of the river. In some places it is very stony. Late +in the afternoon managed to get all the horses to the first camp on this +river. Light winds, south-east. + +Tuesday, 12th August, River Chambers. Horses missing again this morning. +Started at half-past eight. Proceeded to the south-east end of the reedy +swamp, and at half-past three o'clock camped. An hour before halting, we +surprised a number of native women and children who were preparing roots +and other things for their repast. The moment they saw us they seized on +their children, placed them on their shoulders, and ran off screaming at +a great rate, leaving all their things behind them, amongst which we saw +a piece of iron used as a tomahawk; it had a large round eye into which +they had fixed a handle; the edge was about the usual tomahawk breadth; +when hot it had been hammered together. It had apparently been a hinge of +some large door or other large article; the natives had ground it down, +and seemed to know the use of it. Left their articles undisturbed, and +proceeded to the river Roper. My horses are still looking very bad. The +cause must be the dry state of the grass; it is so parched up that when +rubbed between the hands it becomes a fine powder, and they must derive +very little nourishment from it. I can hear natives talking and screaming +on the other side of the river, which at this place is a strong running +stream about thirty yards wide and apparently deep. Wind, south-east, +blowing strong. + +Wednesday, 13th August, Roper River, Reedy Swamp. One of the horses +missing again this morning; he is one that generally goes off and hides +himself if he can find a place to do so. Searched all round, but could +find nothing of him or his tracks. Thinking that he might be hidden +amongst the thick bushes over the river, sent Frew to look through them +on foot, and Mr. Kekwick to an open place up the river to see if he had +got into it. Mr. Kekwick returned in a short time and reported that he +saw him lying drowned in the middle of it. I am sorry for this: he was a +good horse, in fair condition, was with me last year, and has always done +his work well, although he has caused a deal of trouble and loss of time +by so frequently concealing himself. I shall feel his loss very much, as +so many of the other horses are so poor that they are able to carry but +little of a load, and I am obliged to let four go without carrying +anything; indeed it is as much as they can do to walk the day's journey, +although the journeys are short. I shall be compelled to make them still +shorter to try and get them round again. As we were saddling, one native +man and two women made their appearance and came close to the camp. Mr. +Kekwick and I went up to them; the man was middle-aged, stout and tall, +the women were also tall, one especially. Their features were not so +coarse as those we had seen before--a very great difference between this +fellow and those I saw on the source of the Adelaide River. The man made +signs that he would like to get a fishhook by bending his forefinger and +placing it in his mouth, imitating the method of catching fish. I gave +him one with which he was much pleased: I also gave a cotton handkerchief +to each of the women; one of them no sooner got it than she held out the +other hand and called out "more, more, more;" with that request I did not +feel inclined to comply. They remained until we started. Proceeding about +three quarters of a mile down the river to where I had crossed it before, +I got all the horses over without difficulty. There is now no difference +in the strength, depth, nor velocity of the stream since we were here; it +is exactly in the same state as when we previously crossed it. After +crossing it to the other side, I had to cross another deep although dry +creek coming from the east; proceeded on a south-east course to avoid the +deep boggy creek that comes into the river, but at two miles I was +stopped by an immense number of springs, very boggy, and emitting a large +quantity of water; they seem to come from the east, as far as I could +see, in a wooded valley between two hills. I had to round them until I +got upon the south-east course again. At seven miles came upon a large +creek or chain of ponds, having long broad deep reaches of water; +followed this, running nearly my course for seven miles in a straight +line. Camped. My horses cannot do more. The country that I have travelled +over to-day is of the very finest description, rich black alluvial soil, +completely matted with grass, the water most excellent and abundant. The +timber, gum and melaleuca, a few of the trees resembling the shea-oak +also; a few of the fan palms growing among the springs, very tall, +upwards of forty feet; the cabbage palm, and a number of other bushes. +The general course to-day has been about east-south-east. Wind variable. + +Thursday, 14th August, Springs and Chains of Ponds South of the Roper. +Started at half-past seven, intending to follow a south-east course to +make the Mussel Camp on the 23rd of June; but, meeting with another large +creek with continuous water, deep, broad, and boggy, also a number of +springs and water creeks, so boggy that I could not cross them, had to +twist and turn about very frequently, and sometimes to go quite back +again, before I could clear them--which brought me often close to the +river again. About eleven o'clock, as I was approaching the east end of a +low rocky range of hills, where I expected to get rid of all the boggy +ground, I was again stopped by a broad, deep, and boggy sheet of water. A +few minutes before coming to it, I was seized with a violent pain under +the right shoulder-blade, which deprived me of breath and power of +utterance: it darted through my body like lightning, causing the most +excruciating pain that I have ever felt during my life. I had to halt the +party, and was lifted from the saddle completely powerless. After +dismounting, the pain became so violent, and the torture so excessive, +that I thought my career in the world was coming quickly to a close. I +was completely paralysed, and a cold perspiration was pouring in streams +over my face and body. Recollecting I had got a mixture of laudanum and +other strong aromatic tinctures, had it sought for and took a strong +dose. After suffering an hour the extremes of torture, I began to feel +the good effects of the medicine, and obtained a little relief from the +pain ceasing for a few seconds; but still very bad. In a short time +afterwards I was able to bear being lifted into the saddle; again my +sufferings commenced, for every false step the horse made sent the pain +through my body like a knife, and almost brought me to the ground. Being +determined to reach the Mussel Camp to-night, and get quit of the Roper +River, which has been so unfortunate to me in drowning two of my best +horses, I kept my saddle until I reached it--which was not till near five +o'clock. Such a day of torture I never experienced before. On reaching +our tracks, about four miles from the Mussel Camp, another of the horses +knocked up, and we could not get him a step further. I expected to have +lost him long before this; he is one of those that failed on my last +journey, and was sent back from Mount Margaret. Light winds from east. + +Friday, 15th August, Mussel Camp. I have passed a miserable night, and +feel but little better this morning, and as the horses require rest, I +shall remain here to-day. Shortly after sunrise, three natives came close +to the camp; Mr. Kekwick went up to them. Two were of the number of those +who visited us the first time at the large reedy swamp. They were very +quiet, and seemed very friendly; they had come to have a look at us, and +satisfy their curiosity. I feel a little easier to-night. Light wind, +variable. + +Saturday, 16th August, Mussel Camp. Started at nine o'clock. Another of +my horses very ill; I think that many of them must have eaten some +poisonous plant on the Roper and its tributaries; I never saw horses fall +away so rapidly before. The worst are those that have been in good +condition throughout the journey, and the work they have been doing since +I commenced my return journey any horses ought to have done with ease. I +have never travelled more than eight hours a day, and frequently not more +than six hours. In a day or two they fall away to perfect skeletons, are +quite stupid, and hardly able to walk. I am glad that I am now quit of +the Roper, and hope that I shall have no more of them taken ill. If I can +only get the weak ones beyond Newcastle Water, where I expect to get some +new grass for them (from the June and July rains), they would soon +recover. My old horses are all looking well, although they have had to +carry the heaviest loads throughout the journey. I should have been in a +sad way without them--they are my mainstay. Arrived at the Rock Camp, +River Strangways, at two o'clock without having to leave any more. I feel +a little better to-day, but the motion of the horse has been very severe +throughout the journey. The water at this camp is drying up very rapidly: +it is reduced three feet in depth since we left, and I am very much +afraid it will be all gone in Purdie Ponds--if such is the case, I shall +lose all the weak horses. Wind in strong puffs, variable. + +Sunday, 17th August, Rock Camp. Resting horses. Winds light and variable. + +Monday, 18th August, Rock Camp. Three of the best horses are missing this +morning--they are the three leading horses--while feeding; and I have +never known them to be away from the others before. The three +horse-keepers have returned at half-past ten, and can see nothing of +them; the ground is so hard that their tracks leave but little +impression, so that they might have passed them unseen. Mounted Thring +and King on fresh horses to round the feeding-tracks again, and at +half-past twelve they returned with them. They happened to come upon +their tracks on a small piece of sandy ground on the opposite side of the +creek; they traced them to a large permanent water lagoon, deep and +broad, with water-lilies growing round it, and a number of ducks upon it; +it is about three quarters of a mile west-south-west from this camp. Not +seeing them there they followed their tracks for another mile, and there +found them, at which I was very glad, for they are three of my very best +horses, on which I am placing my dependence for carrying me back. I felt +very uneasy at their being away, thinking that the natives might have cut +them off during night. Saddled and proceeded to my first camp, north of +the Rocky Gorge, but was disappointed to find all the water gone, which I +did not expect. Proceeded a mile further, and found as much as will do +for a drink for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning. Camped. Light +winds, variable. + +Tuesday, 19th August, First Camp North of Rocky Gorge. Started at eight +o'clock, proceeding to the Rocky Gorge, and camped. This water has shrunk +considerably since we left it, and I have now little hopes of there being +any water in Purdie Ponds. If there is not I shall require to push +through to Daly Waters. Light winds, south-east. + +Wednesday, 20th August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. If there is no +water in Purdie Ponds, I have six horses that will not be able to go +through to Daly Waters; they must be two nights without it, and that they +will not be able to stand. I have therefore determined to send Thring and +King to Purdie Ponds to-morrow, to see if there is any water, and also to +examine another place that I observed in coming through, where I think +there may be water. If they find none at either of these places, I shall +be compelled to leave the six weak horses at the camp, where there is and +will be plenty of food and water for them. To attempt taking them +through, and be compelled to leave them behind where there will be no +chance of their getting a drop of water, would, I consider, be a great +cruelty; here they are safe, and there is a chance of their being picked +up by the next party. If Thring succeeds in getting water, I shall still +endeavour to take them on. I am yet suffering very much from scurvy; my +teeth and gums are so bad that it causes me excessive pain to eat +anything, and what I do eat I am unable to masticate properly, which +causes me to feel very ill indeed. Light winds, south-east. + +Thursday, 21st August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. At 7.30 despatched +Thring and King to see if there is any water in the Ponds. Resting +horses, repairing saddle-bags, etc. Day hot, night and morning cool; +wind, south-east. My sight has been very much impaired during the last +month; after sundown, I am in total darkness. Even though the moon is +full, and shining bright and clear to the others, to me it is darkness; I +can see her dimly, but she gives me no more light than if she had been +painted on a piece of canvas. I am now quite incapable of taking +observations at night, and I am most thankful this did not happen before +I was enabled to reach the ocean, as the most of my observations are +taken at night. After the equinox the sun is too high to be measured by +the sextant in the artificial horizon. + +Friday, 22nd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Day exceedingly hot. +Wind still from south-east, sometimes blowing in strong puffs. A little +after two o'clock Thring and King returned with the good news that there +is still water in Purdie Ponds; there is as much as will do for us until +Monday morning. I am very glad of it, for it will enable me to get the +weak horses through to Newcastle Water. After that I hope they will soon +recover, for I expect that rain has fallen to the southward of that, and +trust I shall get some fresh feed for them, which they require very much. +I still feel very unwell to-day. + +Saturday, 23rd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Started at +half-past seven, and at four o'clock arrived at the Ponds. The day has +been extremely hot, but about noon some heavy clouds came up from the +east and south-east, which made it a little cooler, and enabled me to get +all the weak horses through; one of them showed symptoms of giving in +before we reached the Ponds, but we got him in all right. I shall remain +here until Monday morning, when I shall have again another long journey +without water (thirty-five miles) to Daly Waters. At sundown the clouds +all cleared away, without giving us any rain. Wind, south-east. This +day's journey has completely knocked me up. At one time I thought I +should never have been able to reach this water. I had no idea I was in +such a weak state, and am very doubtful of my being able to stand the +journey back to Adelaide; whatever may occur I must submit to the will of +Divine Providence. + +Sunday, 24th August, Purdie Ponds. Day hot. Wind light, from south-east. +About noon a few clouds came up, but they all disappeared about sundown. +Very little improvement in me to-day. + +Monday, 25th August, Purdie Ponds. Started at seven o'clock on my former +tracks towards Daly Waters. At seven miles south of the Blue-grass Swamp +saw a heavy fog to the east, in the same place that I saw the black fog +in coming up; it must be caused by a large body of water in that +direction. The natives have been running our tracks, and have burnt the +grass on both sides of it for some distance. There seem to be very few of +them about this part of the country. At half-past four passed the large +swamp that receives the surplus water of Daly Waters, with water still in +it, but very much reduced. At a quarter past five o'clock arrived at Daly +Waters; found them also very much reduced, but still an abundant supply. +Got all the weak horses through, which is more than I expected. This long +journey has again completely exhausted me, and I feel very ill. Wind, +south-east, with a few clouds. + +Tuesday, 26th August, Daly Waters. I feel a little better this morning, +but still very weak and languid. I shall give the horses and myself a +rest to-day, for I am quite unable to ride. Wind, south-east, with a few +clouds from the same direction. + +Wednesday, 27th August, Daly Waters. Last evening, about half-past seven, +Thring observed a comet bearing about 20 degrees west of north, and about +15 degrees above the horizon; the tail is short and the nucleus large. I +regret that I am unable to see it. I cannot now see a single star, +everything at night is total darkness. I should like to take some +observations of it, but I am quite debarred from doing so. Started at +half-past seven and proceeded along the Daly Waters, in which we saw an +abundant supply. On reaching McGorrerey Ponds, and finding plenty of +water, camped. I feel a good deal better to-day, but the motion of +travelling on horseback is still very severe. Although Daly Waters is +much reduced, there is still enough to last six months longer, even +should no rain fall. These ponds will also hold out about three months +longer. Wind, strong from south-east, with a few clouds. + +Thursday, 28th August, McGorrerey Ponds. Proceeded to King's Ponds and +camped. Find that the natives have been running our tracks, and have +burnt large patches of grass; at this camp they have burnt it round. The +water here is nearly all dried up; a few days later and I should not have +got a drop. There is enough to last me to-night and to-morrow morning. +Strong wind from south-east. The natives have cut on one side of my +initials, on a gum-tree by the water where we camp, a figure resembling +(a stylised flying bird). + +Friday, 29th August, King's Ponds. Started at quarter past seven; +proceeded to Frew's Pond, but was disappointed to find it quite dry. Dug +down two feet, but could find no water. Proceeded on a straight course +for Newcastle Water. Crossed Sturt Plains, and after dark camped on them. +I would have gone to Howell Ponds, but finding the others so nearly dry, +I was doubtful of them. A little before sundown, after I had passed them +some distance, I observed flocks of pigeons flying towards them, showing +that there is water still there. It is too late for me to go there now, +Newcastle Water being the nearest. Wind, south-east. I feel a little +better than I did on the former long journey. + +Saturday, 30th August, Sturt Plains. At dawn of day started, being still +some eight miles from Newcastle Water. The horses look very wretched this +morning, especially the weak ones. About half-past eight arrived there, +and found an abundant supply of water, though much reduced. No rain seems +to have fallen since we left this, upwards of four months ago. A short +time before we arrived a number of natives were observed following at a +distance behind the rear of the party. They followed us on to our old +camp, when I sent Mr. Kekwick up to them to keep them amused until I had +the horses unpacked and taken down to water. By giving them a +handkerchief he obtained a stone tomahawk from them. They are a fine race +of men, tall, stout, and muscular, but not very handsome in features. +They were very quiet. By making signs they were made to understand they +were not to come nearer to our camp than about one hundred and fifty +yards. They remained until noon staring at us and our horses. Some who +could not see us very well got into the gum-trees, and had a long look at +us. They were seventeen in number; four of them were boys, one of them +much lighter than the others, nearly a light yellow. At noon they all +went off, after remaining for four hours. Once more have I returned, if I +may so call it, into old country again, after an absence of four months +and ten days, exploring a new and splendid country from this to the +Indian ocean without receiving a single drop of rain, or without any +hostilities from the natives. I have returned from the coast to this in +one month and three days. The horses have been one night without water, +but got it early next morning, between eight and nine o'clock, and they +would not have been without it if I could have seen to have guided the +party after sundown. After the rays of the sun have left the earth, all +is total darkness to me, even if there is a moon; I was therefore +compelled to camp until daylight. Had my horses been in anything like a +fair condition to have done a day's journey, and my health permitting, I +could have accomplished the journey from the coast to this in three +weeks. Before sundown we were again visited by our black friends; this +time two old men accompanied them, whom Mr. Kekwick recognised as among +those who visited the Depot at Howell Ponds during my absence. They all +came up this time painted in red and white, and after remaining a short +time went quietly to their camp. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 31st August, North Newcastle Water. The natives again visited us +this morning, and after remaining some time went off quietly. Wind, +south-east. Few clouds at sundown. + +Monday, 1st September, North Newcastle Water. Whilst saddling the horses +this morning the natives again came up, and were anxious to know if they +might be permitted to visit the camp after we were gone; that of course I +had no objection to. They have been very quiet and peaceable during our +stay; but I suppose they observed that both night and day we were always +prepared to resist any aggression on their part. Started at seven +o'clock, and proceeded by the base of the Ashburton range to my former +camp on the East Newcastle Water. Distance, twenty-five miles; course +nearly south-east. Arrived at four o'clock and found the water much +reduced, but still in great abundance. Not a drop of rain has fallen +since we left. There are, apparently, two tribes of natives on this +water, one inhabiting the north and the other the south; for, on those of +the north visiting us, we could not recognise any of those we saw on the +southern water. One of the natives was a very amusing little fellow, +rather less than five feet high, having a very peculiar and comical +countenance and antics that would have eclipsed Liston in his best days, +and as supple in the movements of his joints as any clown on the stage. +He imitated every movement we made, and burlesqued them to a very high +degree, causing great laughter to his companions and us. He seems to be +the buffoon of the tribe. The other natives delighted in making sport of +him, by ridiculing the shortness of his stature and laughing at him +behind his back. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 2nd September, East Newcastle Water. Proceeded to Lawson Creek, +but found no water in the lower part. Went up into the gorge, and there +found as much as will do; it also is nearly gone, but there are still a +few feet of it. I had no idea that such a body of water could have +evaporated so quickly, which now makes me very doubtful of the waters to +the southward. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 3rd September, Lawson Creek. As I now do not expect to get +water before I reach the Hunter or the Burke, a distance of upwards of +forty miles, I shall give the horses one day's rest to enable them to do +the journey. I expect to lose some of the weak ones; to delay longer is +only making the risk the greater. This must be an uncommonly dry season; +not a single drop of rain has fallen in this part of the country since we +left it. Last year we had three days' rain about the middle of June, and +I was in hopes there would be the same this year, but am very much +disappointed. I shall lighten the horses as much as I can possibly do, by +leaving the water-bags, which are nearly useless, blankets, rugs, and +cloths, as well as any other articles that can be done without. +Provisions I MUST carry. I sincerely hope the forthcoming equinox will +give me some rain and enable me to return. I feel a little better, but +very weak and feeble from the severe attack of scurvy. My mouth and gums +are so sore that to eat any food gives me the greatest pain. I cannot +chew it, and am obliged to swallow it as it is, which makes me very ill. +I am the only one of the party that is at present troubled with it. Wind, +east. + +Thursday, 4th September, Lawson Creek. Started at 6.40, and proceeded to +the Hawker, but found no water there; thence to Watson Creek, none there; +thence to Powell, Gleeson, and a number of other creeks that had water in +them last year, but there is not a drop. Continued on to the creek that I +camped at coming up. Arrived at 6.45 p.m.; found that water also gone, +although it was a large deep hole when we were here before. Camped. Weak +horses nearly done up. About 8.30 p.m. sent Thring up the creek to see if +he could find any water. In three hours he returned: he had followed it +up into the rough rocky hills until he could get no further, without +seeing a drop. Wind, east. A few clouds at sundown coming from the south +and south-east. + +Friday, 5th September, Branch Creek of Hunter. Had to watch the horses +during the night to prevent them straying in search of water. Started at +5.40 a.m. for the Hunter; in an hour and three quarters found some water +in its bed. Camped, and will give the horses the benefit of it to-day. +Wind variable. + +Saturday, 6th September, The Hunter. Proceeded to the Burke, and found an +abundant supply of water in the large iron conglomerate water hole that I +discovered last year; it is reduced about four feet, but is still deep, +and will last yet a long time without rain. I should say it was permanent +without a doubt. Camped. From here I shall require to send on in advance +to see if there is water in the Tomkinson; if not, I shall require to +rest the horses here for three or four days to enable them to do the +journey to Attack Creek without it. If there is none in the Tomkinson, I +do not expect to find any in the Morphett. Native smoke about. They have +burnt a great portion of the grass about here. The day has been +oppressively hot and close. Wind from the east-south-east, with heavy +clouds from the south-east to the south-west at sundown. + +Sunday, 7th September, The Burke. After sunrise the clouds all gone. At +6.30 despatched Thring and King to the Tomkinson to see if there is any +water. The day again oppressively hot, with clouds from south and +south-east. Wind variable. + +Monday, 8th September, The Burke. The clouds continued to come up du-ring +the night, but after sunrise they cleared off; still no rain. Between one +and two p.m. Thring and King returned with the disheartening tidings that +there was no water in or about the Tomkinson. I shall give the horses two +more days' rest, and push through to Attack Creek, where I am almost sure +of there being water. The wind variable, sometimes north, east, and west. +The clouds are broken up, and are nearly all gone, without leaving rain. + +Tuesday, 9th September, The Burke. Resting horses, mending saddle-bags, +etc. Wind, north and variable, with a few clouds from the west and +south-west. + +Wednesday, 10th September, The Burke. Thring on his return last Monday +saw some water about four miles higher up this creek, nearly on our +course for the Tomkinson; to that I shall go to-day, and make a start for +Attack Creek to-morrow morning. Every mile now gained is of the utmost +importance to me. Started early, to get there in the cool of the morning. +In an hour and a half arrived at the water and camped. It is situated at +the foot of some ironstone conglomerate rock, and will last a week or two +longer. It has a number of small fish in it. The soil on its banks is +light and a little sandy, with spinifex and grass mixed through it. Wind, +north and north-west; the clouds have all disappeared. This morning I +again feel very ill. I am very doubtful of my being able to reach the +settled districts. Should anything happen to me, I keep everything ready +for the worst. My plan is finished, and my journal brought up every +night, so that no doubt whatever can be thrown upon what I have done. All +the difficult country is now passed, and what remains is well known to +those who have been out with me before; so that there is no danger of the +party not finding their way back, should I be taken away. The only +difficulty they will have to encounter is the scarcity of water, caused +by the extreme dryness of the season. + +Thursday, 11th September, The Upper Burke. Started at 6.40; crossed the +Tomkinson and small grassy plains; ascended the north spur of the +Whittington range. After sundown, it becoming quite dark to me, so that I +could not see the horse's head before me, I was compelled to halt on the +top of the range, four miles from my former camp on the Morphett. Day +excessively hot; myself and horses have felt it very much. Wind variable, +from the north and north-east. + +Friday, 12th September, Top of Whittington Range. At break of day +started over the range to my former camp, but found all the water gone. +Proceeded down the Morphett, and at four miles found a little in the +sandy bottom of what had once been a large hole. There is as much as +will do for me until to-morrow by digging. All the clouds gone; not the +slightest appearance of rain. The country on fire all round us. Wind, +north-west and variable. Day exceedingly hot. + +Saturday, 13th September, The Morphett. Started at 7.20, crossed the +other spur of Whittington range, and at 11.20 arrived at Attack Creek. +There is still an abundant supply of water, although much reduced--much +lower than I have ever seen it. In about an hour and a half after +camping, some native women came to the lower end of the hole where +Billiatt was getting some water. The moment they saw him they went off at +full speed. In a short time afterwards one man made his appearance and +came marching up towards us. Sent Mr. Kekwick to meet him. As he +approached him the black became stationary, and moving back a little, +beckoned to some others to come up. Mr. Kekwick observed five or six +others down at the lower end of the water hole, one of whom came up. I +then sent Frew to Mr. Kekwick. They approached very cautiously, but as +soon as they caught sight of Mr. Kekwick's gun, he could not get near +them. On laying it down he got a little nearer; they shrank back when he +attempted to touch them. Taking out a small strip of white calico which +he had in his pocket, he tore it into two and held it out to them. They +wished to possess it, but did not fancy coming too close to him for it. +He made a sign that he wished to tie it round their wrists; they +gradually approached nearer, holding out their arms at full length, and +so frightened were they to come close, that he had to reach out his full +length to tie them on; after which they gained a little more confidence, +pointed towards the gun, imitated the report with their mouth, and held +up three fingers, signifying that they recollected my first visit and +number, which they do not seem to have forgotten, and seem to dread the +appearance of a gun. The first one that came up had a very long spear, +with a flat, sharp, and barbed point. They were two elderly stout men, +one very much diseased and lame. They remained a long time looking at us. +None of the others came up. In a little more than three hours they went +off and we saw no more of them during the evening. Wind, south-west, with +heavy clouds from the same direction and from the south. + +Sunday, 14th September, Attack Creek. During the night the sky frequently +became overcast with heavy clouds, which seemed to indicate rain, but +none fell. About eight o'clock the wind changed to north-east, bringing +up very heavy clouds, which led me to expect rain, but I was much +disappointed, for at half-past twelve they all broke up and went off. +This morning, at sunrise, I despatched Thring and Nash to see if there is +water in Hayward, Phillip, Bishop, Tennant, or Goodiar Creeks. If there +is none I shall require to rest the horses for three days, and then push +on for the Bonney. It is a very long distance, and only the very best of +them will be able to do it. I feel a little better this morning, but +still very weak. The pains are increasing in my limbs, and my mouth is so +bad I can eat nothing but a little boiled flour. How I am to get over +such long pushes I do not know. I must trust entirely to Divine +Providence. The natives have not visited us this morning. A little before +four o'clock p.m. Nash returned. Thring had sent him back to report that +there was water, by digging in the sand, at Hayward Creek, while he goes +on to see if there is any other creek. Wind variable, with heavy clouds +at sundown. + +Monday, 15th September, Attack Creek. Started at 8.40. On crossing the +creek, one of the weak horses, which had eaten some poison about the +Roper, and which has been getting weaker every day, in attempting to get +up the bank, which was not steep, fell and rolled back into the creek. +There he had to be some time before he was able to get up. I saw that it +was useless taking him any further, therefore left him where he will get +plenty of feed and water. Proceeded to the Hayward, where I met Thring. +There is some soft mud in Phillip Creek, but none in Bishop Creek. +Camped, and cleared out a place for the horses to drink at. A number of +natives have been camped on the opposite side of the creek, where they +have left their spears, dishes, etc. Thring had arrived here some time +before. About twenty of them coming closer to him than was safe, he +mounted his horse and chased them to the hills, where they are now seated +watching us. Some of them are approaching nearer. Mr. Kekwick could not +get them to come near him until one of the old men who visited us at +Attack Creek arrived and came up to him, which gave the others +confidence. A number of them then came forward--tall, stout, well-made +fellows, armed with long heavy spears, having bamboo at one end. One of +them had also part of a large sea-shell, but it is so broken and ground +down for a scoop that I cannot say of what description it is. The bamboo +and the sea-shell show that this tribe has communicated with the +sea-coast. They remained until sundown, and then did not seem inclined to +go away, but prepared sleeping-places for the night--a proof that this is +the only water near. There are upwards of thirty men, besides women and +children. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone. + +Tuesday, 16th September, Hayward Creek. The natives showed themselves +again at daybreak, but kept on the opposite bank of the creek, having a +long look at us, and calling out something at the top of their voices +which we could not understand. Watered our horses, saddled, and moved on +amidst a succession of yells and screeches from old and young. Proceeded +across Short ranges, and Phillip, and Bishop Creeks. Looked into every +place I could think of, but could not find a drop. Moved on to Tennant +Creek. Found that dry. Tried digging in the sand, without effect. Pushed +on to the large rocky water hole in Goodiar Creek, where I made almost +sure that I should find some. On arriving, was sadly disappointed to find +that dry also. Proceeded across the McDouall range, and camped on a +grassy plain between it and Mount Samuel. The natives followed us nearly +to Tennant Creek, raising a line of smoke all the way. They kept about a +mile to the east of us, on some rising ground that runs nearly parallel +with my tracks. We have had to lighten a heavy cart-horse named Charley. +When any hardship is to be undergone, he is always the first to show +symptoms of giving in. He had only thirty pounds to carry to-day, and he +looks ten times worse than those that are carrying one hundred and +twenty. I shall require to let him go without anything to-morrow. We +shall have to watch the horses during the night to prevent them from +straying in search of water. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 17th September, McDouall Range. Started at daybreak for the +Murchison range. About eleven o'clock the cart-horse gave in, and would +not move a step further. I am obliged to leave him; he has been carrying +nothing all the morning. Two others that have been very weak from eating +some poisonous plant will, I fear, give in before the end of the day. A +little after four o'clock I found I must leave them. At dark arrived at +the Baker, which I found dry. Camped. This is another night the horses +will be without water, and will require to be watched. A quantity of +native smoke about. There must be permanent water about this range +somewhere, but I have no time to look for it now. Tomorrow I must push on +for the Bonney. If that fails me I shall be in a sad predicament, but I +trust that the Almighty will still continue to show me the same great +kindness that he has done throughout my different journeys. There is very +little improvement in my health. I feel very much being in the saddle so +long. Twelve hours is almost too much for my weak state, but I must +endure it. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 18th September, Murchison Range. Proceeded at daydawn to the +Gilbert. Found it dry. Went on towards the Bonney; crossed the +McLaren--no water. At two o'clock arrived at the Bonney, and am most +thankful to Divine Providence that there is still a good supply of water +that will last some time longer. My horses look very bad indeed. I +expected to have lost more of them. They have got over this first +difficulty very well. Towards the end of the journey my old horse took +the lead. Day hot. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 19th September, The Bonney. From this camp Mount Fisher bears 119 +degrees 30 minutes. I must remain here some time to get my horses round +again. A large number of them are looking very ill this morning. Being so +long without water and the dry state in which the grass is, has reduced +them more than three months' hard work would have done. If the grass had +any nourishment in it, two or three days would have done for them. Not a +drop of rain seems to have fallen here for the last twelve months; +everything is dry and parched up. This appears to be the driest part of +the year. I am very doubtful of the water in the Stirling, the next place +that I was depending upon. From the very reduced state in which this is, +I have very little hope of there being any there. The day has been again +oppressively hot. I trust we shall soon have rain. Wind variable. Native +smoke about. + +Saturday, 20th September, The Bonney. Resting horses. I feel very ill +again; being so long in the saddle is very severe upon me. Day again very +hot. Wind from the west, with a few clouds, which I trust will bring up +rain. + +Sunday, 21st September, The Bonney. Resting horses. Day very hot. Wind, +west; clouds broken up. + +Monday, 22nd September, The Bonney. This morning sent Thring up the creek +to see if there is any larger water than this that can be depended on for +some time to come. Very hot. Clouds all gone. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 23rd September, The Bonney. Recruiting horses, etc. About eleven +o'clock Thring returned. He has been about twenty miles up the creek to +where it became much narrower and was joined by a number of small ones +coming from very rough and stony hills. Its general course is about +east-south-east. At four miles from this he found a pool of water four +feet deep, two hundred yards long, and thirty feet broad. There is a +considerable quantity of water all the way up, but shallow, and none of +the extent of the former one found. Should I be forced to retreat, that +will be a safe place to fall back on until rain falls. Day again +oppressively hot. Wind, east. + +Wednesday, 24th September, The Bonney. Shortly after sunrise despatched +Thring to see if there is any water in Thring Ponds, or any between them +and this. I would have gone myself, but was quite unable to do so, being +very little better. One of my good horses has met with an accident in +feeding along the bank of the creek in places where it is very +precipitous. A portion must have given way and thrown him into the creek, +injuring him very much in the chest and other parts of the body. I am +afraid he will not be able to travel with me, which will be a great loss, +having so many weak ones already. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds. + +Thursday, 25th September, The Bonney. Clouds all gone, no rain. Resting +horses, etc. Day hot, morning and evening cool, with strong wind from +east and south-east. I have been obliged to reduce the rations to five +pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per week for each man, which +will leave me provisions at that rate until the end of January, in case I +should be locked in with the dry state of the season. The flies at this +place are a perfect torment. A little after three o'clock p.m. Thring +returned. There was no water in the Barker, none in the Sutherland, and +when he got to the ponds, found them quite dry also; he then returned two +miles to where there was some good feed for the horse, and camped for the +night without water, intending to return to this in the morning. In +saddling he observed some crested pigeons fly past him to the south of +east; he thought it would be as well to follow them some distance in that +direction, as they might be going to water, as about that time in the +morning is generally the time they fly towards it. After going a few +miles he surprised fourteen natives at breakfast. As soon as they saw him +they ran off at full speed. Observing some small wooden troughs with +water in them, he collected it together and gave it to his horse. +Examined the small creek for more, but could find none, and knowing the +natives would not carry it very far, and that there must be some no great +way off, went on a little further and found a fine pool of water with +ducks on it, but shallow. He then returned. This will bring the Stirling +within visiting distance. I shall remove the party down to the pool +to-morrow. Strong wind, still from the south-east. + +Friday, 26th September, The Bonney. In consequence of the horses +separating during the night, I did not get a start before nine o'clock; +followed my former tracks across Younghusband's range; thence on a +bearing 25 degrees east of south; arrived at the pool of water at 5.15 +p.m. Before reaching the water we crossed four red sand hills, with +spinifex, running north-east and south-west, having broad valleys +between, in which are growing melaleucas, gum-trees, and grass. After +rain they retain water, but now are quite dry. This one that we are now +camped at is much larger, having the same description of timber, with +polyganum growing round about it; the water is shallow, and will not last +long. There are a number of ducks, geese, and other water-fowl on it, but +too shy to be approached. A quantity of native smoke about. I am very ill +to-day; I am scarcely able to endure the motion of the horse thus far. +The horse that injured himself so much knocked up about two miles from +this water, but we were able to get him to it before sundown. I shall +have to kill him and eat what is good of him; it is useless to attempt +taking him on a long journey without water--he would never be able to do +it; and, as we are now upon half rations of meat, I shall kill and eat +him, so that he will not be lost altogether. Wind variable. Day +exceedingly hot. + +Saturday, 27th September, Pool of Water. Before attempting to see if +there is water in the Stirling, I have sent Thring on course 20 degrees +west of south, to see if there is any creek or water between two stony +ranges of hills that lie east of Mount Morphett. At sundown he has not +returned. Wind, west. Day very hot. After sundown we shot the black horse +that was not able to travel; shall cut him up and dry him to-morrow; +there are some parts very much injured by bruises he got in his tumble. +He also showed evidence of having drunk too much water at the Bonney. +Being so exhausted and knocked up on my arrival there, I was unable to go +and see they did not drink too much, and had to leave it to others. In +all my journeys (and my horses have been much longer time without water +than this), this is the first horse that has injured himself in that way. + +Sunday, 28th September, Pool of Water. About eight o'clock, Thring +returned, being out all night without food or blankets; he had found a +large gum creek in the place I had sent him to, with water in it, by +sinking in its sandy bed. I shall move the party to it to-morrow morning. +Wind variable, mostly from the north and north-east. Day very hot. +Latitude, 20 degrees 47 minutes 59 seconds. + +Monday, 29th September, Pool of Water. Started at seven o'clock, course +20 degrees west of south. For the first five miles we passed over a fine +country, soil red, and in places a little sandy, with gums, grass, a +little scrub, and in places a little spinifex. After this it became +covered with spinifex until within five miles of the creek, where the +mulga commenced, with plenty of grass, which continued to its banks, +where we arrived after twenty-six miles, and had to dig six feet in the +sand before we could get sufficient water for the horses; by ten o'clock +p.m. however we got them all watered. I am inclined to believe this is a +continuation of the Taylor and other creeks coming from Forster range +more to the eastward. After my arrival here, I sent Thring up the creek +to see if he could find any surface water. After dark he returned and +informed me that he had followed it into the Crawford range, and that it +came through the range; if such is the case, there is no doubt of it +being the Taylor with the creeks from Forster range. There is no surface +water, but apparently plenty by digging in the bed of the creek, judging +from the number of native wells that he saw with water in them. At one of +the wells he saw several natives, who ran off on his approach. Latitude, +21 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds. Wind variable. Day oppressively hot. + +Tuesday, 30th September, The Taylor. As soon as I could get the horses, I +despatched Thring to the Stirling to see if there is water. I have sent +King on with him, with a pack-horse carrying two bags of water for the +horse that carries him to the Stirling. They are to follow this creek up, +and, if it is the Taylor, they are to stop to-night at our last camp on +it. Next morning King is to return to me, whilst Thring goes on to +examine the Stirling. Still all hands engaged in sinking for water for +the horses. Wind from the south-east, with heavy clouds from the +north-west and south-west, showing every indication of rain, which I +sincerely hope will fall before morning. + +Wednesday, 1st October, The Taylor. About nine o'clock last night there +were a few drops of rain, and almost immediately afterwards the clouds +broke up and went off to the south-east, to our very great +disappointment. This morning there are still a few light ones about, but +very high, and no more appearance of rain. Wind still strong and blowing +from the same quarter. We have now got enough water for the horses, and +can water them all in about two hours. No natives have shown themselves +since we have been here, although their smoke was quite close to us +yesterday. In the afternoon Thring and King returned, having found a fine +pool of water about fifteen miles up the creek, four feet deep, which +will serve us for a short time. Sundown: still blowing strong from the +south-east; clouds all gone. + +Thursday, 2nd October, The Taylor. Started at five minutes to eight, +course 3 degrees west of south; at five miles got through the gap in the +range, then changed to 20 degrees west of south, and after ten miles on +that course reached the water hole. The journey to-day has been over +first-rate travelling-ground, avoiding crossing the range at Mount +Morphett. The country in many places along the creek has large grassy +plains with mulga, gum-trees, and scrub, not too thick to get easily +through. Native smoke under the hills to the east. Strong cool wind +blowing all day from the south-east. A little before sundown three +natives came within three hundred yards of the camp, setting fire to the +grass as they came along. We could not get them to come any nearer. +Latitude 21 degrees 22 minutes 12 seconds. + +Friday, 3rd October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise +despatched Thring and King in search of water higher up the creek. I feel +so weak and ill that I am now scarcely able to move about the camp. This +morning Frew, in searching for some of the horses, came upon the three +natives we saw last night; the moment they saw him off they went at full +speed, and he saw no more of them. They must have been sneaking about and +watching our camp during the night. Wind still blowing strong south-east. + +Saturday, 4th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. It still continues to +blow very strong from the same quarter. A little before two p.m. King +returned. They had followed up this creek for a considerable distance +beyond where the Taylor joined it, and as it came more from the +south-east than I had expected, and approached near to Forster range, +Thring changed his course to the Stirling, according to my instructions. +A little before sundown they arrived at my former camp on the Stirling; +found the water hole quite dry; dug down, but could find no moisture. +They had not seen a drop of water during the whole day. In the morning +King returned to me, giving Thring's horse the water that he had carried +with him to enable him to search the Stirling down and round about the +adjoining country. Still blowing strong from the same direction. No +clouds visible. + +Sunday, 5th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Still blowing strong and +cool from the same quarter. About half-past one o'clock Thring returned; +he could find no surface water, neither any to be had by digging. He then +crossed over to the foot of the Hanson, where he saw some native smoke; +on his arriving at it he surprised a native busily engaged in sinking for +water, about six feet deep, in the bed of the creek, who, as soon as he +saw him, jumped out of the well and ran off as fast as he could. He then +tried to see what quantity of water was in the bottom of the well, but +having nothing but a quart pot to clear it out with, he was unable to +form a correct opinion, but from all appearances he thinks there will be +sufficient for our use for some time, only it will require an immense +deal of labour and time to remove the great body of sand to enable the +horses to get down to it. To-morrow I shall send Thring with McGorrerey +and Nash, with four horses and sufficient provisions for a fortnight. On +their arrival at the native well on the Hanson they will be able easily +to get water enough for their four horses that night. McGorrerey and Nash +will then clear out the well and see what quantity there is in it, while +Thring will proceed up the Hanson to see if there is water in the springs +that I discovered on my first journey through the centre. If they are dry +he will proceed with the examination of the Hanson to above where we +crossed it; he will then return to the diggers; by that time they will be +able to judge if there is sufficient water for the whole party. If there +is sufficient he will leave them to dig, and come on to me; if not, and +there is no more water higher up, he will bring them on with him, and I +shall require to try a course more to the south-east. In the afternoon +the three natives again made their appearance, bawling out as they came +near, but retreated as Mr. Kekwick went towards them to see what they +wanted. Wind still south-east. + +Monday, 6th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise +despatched Thring with McGorrerey and Nash to the Hanson. Day very hot. I +am still very ill--no improvement whatever. Wind strong from the +south-east. + +Tuesday, 7th October, The Taylor. What a miserable life mine is now! I +get no rest night nor day from this terrible gnawing pain; the nights are +too long, and the days are too long, and I am so weak that I am hardly +able to move about the camp. I am truly wretched. When will this cease? +Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 8th October, The Taylor. Wind still blowing from the +south-east; no appearance of rain. + +Thursday, 9th October, The Taylor. Last night, about sundown, a native +woman and youngster came to the waterhole, rushed down, had a drink, and +were running off again, when I cooed and made signs of friendship; in a +few seconds the woman gained confidence, and, not seeing any of us +approach, went down to the hole again, and fetched up a large troughful +of water. Mr. Kekwick tried to induce her to stop, in order to gain some +information from her, but it was of no use; the faster he walked the +faster she did the same, chatting all the time, pointing to the south; so +he left her to walk at her leisure. They do not seem to be at all +frightened of us; but we cannot get any of them to come near, although we +have tried every time they have come. The day again oppressively hot. I +still feel very ill. Wind from south-east. Nothing particular has +occurred during the day. This is dreadful work to be detained here so +long. I am afraid soon I shall not be able to sit in the saddle, and then +what must I do? I feel myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I hope +the Almighty will have compassion on me, and soon send me some relief. He +is the only one that can do it--my only friend. + +Friday, 10th October, The Taylor. Last night, a little before sundown, +until after dark, we were amused by a farce enacted by the natives, +apparently to keep us quiet and render us powerless, while they +approached the water hole and got what water they required. They +commenced at some distance off, raising a heavy black smoke, (by setting +fire to the spinifex), and calling out most lustily at the top of their +voices. As the sun got lower I had the party prepared for an attack; on +they came, the fire rolling before them. We could now occasionally see +them; one was an old man with a very powerful voice, who seemed to be +speaking some incantations, with the most dreadful howl I ever heard in +my life, resembling a man suffering the extremes of torture; he was +assisted in his horrid yell by some women. As the evening got darker and +they were within one hundred and fifty yards of us, and nearly opposite +our camp, the scene was very pretty--in fact grand. In the foreground was +our camp equipment with the party armed, ready to repel an attack. On the +opposite side of the creek was a long line of flames, some mounting high +in the air, others kept at a low flickering light. In the midst of the +flames the natives appeared to be moving about, performing all sorts of +antics; behind them came the old man with his women. At every high flame +he seemed to be performing some mysterious spell, still yelling in the +former horrid tone, turning and twisting his body and legs and arms into +all sorts of shapes. They appeared like so many demons, dancing, +sporting, and enjoying themselves in the midst of flames. At last they +and their fire reached the water hole after continuing this horrid noise +for nearly two hours without intermission; as soon as they came in sight +of the water, those in front rushed down into it, satisfied themselves, +filled their troughs and bags, except the old man, who kept up his howl +until he was stopped by a drink of water. This seemed to satisfy them, +for they went off from us about three quarters of a mile and camped, I +suppose thinking they had done great things in keeping us so quiet. +Shortly after this something started the horses which made them all rush +together. I kept the party under arms till nine o'clock p.m. and then, +everything appearing to be quiet, I sent them all to bed except the one +on guard. The natives were quiet during the night. This morning the +blacks watched us collecting the horses and watering them; they then very +quietly slipped down to the water, filled their troughs, etc., and in +about half an hour went off and left us in possession of the water. They +must certainly think we are very much to be frightened by fire and a +great noise, or they would never have come in the way they did last +night; they would have been rather surprised had they attacked us, to +find that we could both speak and injure by fire. I am better pleased +that they went away quietly; it is far from my wish to injure one of them +if they will let me pass peaceably through. About two o'clock p.m. Thring +returned; he had examined up the Hanson, but could not find a drop of +water, either on the surface or by digging. On his return to where he had +left the two men to dig, he found there would not be enough water for the +whole party, as it came in so slowly; it is on the top of hard burnt +sandstone; he therefore came on to inform me of the result, leaving the +two men still there. They had been visited by the natives, who appeared +to be inclined to be rather unfriendly at first, but on showing them they +were welcome to use the water as well as the party, they became friendly, +and came over night and morning to fill their troughs and bags. They +pointed to the south-south-east, and made signs, by digging with a scoop, +that there was water in that direction, but how far he could not make +out. This is a sad disappointment to me. I dare not move the party on to +where they are digging, there is too little water. To-morrow morning I +must send Thring and King on to Anna Reservoir to see if there is any +there; if that is dry I shall be locked in until rain falls, and that may +not be before the equinox, in March, a very dismal prospect to look +forward to. I shall start Thring and King to-morrow morning; they will +reach where the diggers are to-morrow night, and will rest their horses +there on Sunday. On Monday morning start for Anna Reservoir--King, with a +pack-horse carrying water, will go on one day with Thring. The water to +be given to Thring's horse night and morning. Thring will proceed to the +Reservoir. King will return to the diggers with the empty bags, have them +filled, and next morning start with fresh horses and the water to meet +Thring on his return in case the Reservoir is dry; this is the only way +that I see it can be done. I now begin to feel the want of my health +dreadfully. Although Thring is a good bushman and does his best, poor +fellow, yet he wants experience and maturer judgment; he has had hard +work of it lately, but he is always ready to start again at any moment +that I wish. Wind, south-east. A few light clouds about. + +Saturday, 11th October, The Taylor. The natives camped last night at +their former place; they seem to have given up all their buffoonery. I +suppose they see it has no effect upon us. Shortly after sunrise +despatched Thring and King. The day again oppressively hot, with a few +light clouds from the south. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 12th October, The Taylor. The natives again encamped in their +former place last night. They came in late and started early this +morning. They always seem to go off to the westward. Day again +oppressively hot. Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 13th October, The Taylor. Can see nothing of the natives this +morning; they must have gone off during the early part of last night. We +tried to get near to them yesterday afternoon by making friendly signs, +etc., but the moment we approached them they ran off, and everything we +can think of will not induce them to come near us or allow us to get near +them; they are the most timid race I have ever met with, which I think is +a very bad feature--such are often very treacherous. I should have a much +higher opinion of them if they would come boldly forward and see if we +were friends or foes. Wind from the north; heavy clouds from south and +south-west. + +Tuesday, 14th October, The Taylor. During the night there was a deal of +lightning in the south and south-west; clouds about, but high and much +broken. About two o'clock p.m. they collected together and gave a very +promising appearance of a heavy fall of rain; they seemed to be coming up +all round, but the heaviest from the south and south-west. At four +o'clock p.m. it began to lighten and thunder, accompanied by a shower +which did not last above a few minutes. Sundown: still the same promising +dark, heavy, gloomy appearance. Wind, south-east. + +Wednesday, 15th October, The Taylor. During the night we had a terrific +storm of lightning and thunder, which continued throughout the night and +morning at intervals, but little rain has fallen, it has merely damped +the surface of the ground. At twelve o'clock to-day it has nearly cleared +all away, leaving only a few light clouds, which is another very great +disappointment. At sundown it again became overcast. Wind variable. + +Thursday, 16th October, The Taylor. Still cloudy during the night and +morning, but no rain has fallen; the heavy clouds pass south of us to the +eastward. I am now nearly helpless; my legs are unable to support the +weight of my body, and, when I do walk a little way, I am obliged to have +the assistance of one of the party, and the pains caused by walking are +most excruciating. I get little sleep night or day. I must endure my +sufferings with patience, and submit to the will of the Almighty, who, I +trust, will soon send me some relief. Wind variable. + +Friday, 17th October, The Taylor. Still heavy clouds during the night and +day, but no rain will fall. Still very ill. About three o'clock p.m. +Thring returned; he has been to Anna Reservoir and found plenty of water, +and a number of natives camped at it, who ran off the moment they saw +him; he watered his horse and recrossed the range, not thinking it +prudent to camp where there were so many of them. He has met with the +same description of weather that we have had up here, thunder and +lightning with a heavy, cloudy sky, but nothing but a light shower or two +of rain. I shall move the party on to the Hanson to-morrow, and, if I am +able to ride, shall push on to-morrow. Wind variable; sky still overcast. + +Saturday, 18th October, The Taylor. Started at twenty minutes to eight +for the Hanson; sky still overcast with heavy clouds. We had two light +showers during the journey. I am now so helpless that I have to be lifted +into the saddle. I endured the pain of riding for the first seventeen +miles far better than I expected; after that it became almost unbearable, +and camped at twenty-four miles, having found as much water in the rocks +of the Stirling as will do for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning, +left from a shower of rain, for which I am very thankful. I could not +have gone on more than three miles. I was then enduring the greatest pain +and agony that it is possible for a man to suffer. On being lifted from +the horse, all power was gone out of my legs, and when I attempted to put +the weight of my body on them the pain was most excruciating. Still heavy +clouds about, indicating rain. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 19th October, The Stirling. I had a few hours' sound sleep last +night, which I find has done me a deal of good. During the early part of +the night two heavy showers of rain fell, and left plenty of water for +the horses; got them up, and saddled and proceeded to the Hanson. At +eight miles arrived there, finding the party all well; they had not been +troubled with the natives except by their coming down to the water during +the night time, and bringing into the hole a quantity of sand with them. +I had to be taken from horseback nearly in the same state as yesterday. +Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 20th October, The Hanson. Started early; passed the Centre; +crossed the upper part of the Hanson, and at five miles beyond it camped. +Distance, thirty-five miles. Not a drop of rain seems to have fallen for +a long time. During the whole day's journey this has been a terrible day +of agony for me; nine hours and a half in the saddle. I had to be taken +from my horse in the same helpless state as before. My feet and legs are +now very much swollen; round the ankles they are quite black, and the +pain is dreadful. I still continue to take the bicarb of potash, but it +has little or no effect. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 21st October, South of the Centre. About sunrise started for +Anna Reservoir, and at 5.30 p.m. arrived there, completely exhausted. +Wind, variable. Heavy clouds from the south-east. + +Wednesday, 22nd October, Anna Reservoir. Last night I was so completely +overcome by fatigue and exhaustion that I had no sleep during the whole +of the night, which makes me feel very ill indeed this morning. I shall +be obliged to remain here to-day and to-morrow, to see if that will +recruit my strength and enable me to perform the long journeys to the +McDonnell range. About twelve o'clock heavy thundery weather to the west +and south. + +Saturday, 23rd October, Anna Reservoir. I shall rest to-day and have what +shoes there are left put on the horses. I, with William Auld, will +proceed to-morrow about ten miles in advance, to divide the long journey +into two, for I have not strength to do it in one day. Wind variable. + +Friday, 24th October, Anna Reservoir. Started early, taking with me +Thring, King, and Auld, with one pack-horse to carry my tent, water, etc. +Proceeded through the thick mulga scrub, and at ten miles camped, which I +find is quite as much as I am able to do. Had my tent put up, and myself +carried into it. Sent Thring and King back with the horses to the +Reservoir, keeping Auld with me. The party will start from the Reservoir +early to-morrow morning, pick me up, and proceed to Mount Harris. Wind, +east. + +Saturday, 25th October, Mulga Scrub South of Anna Reservoir. A few +minutes before ten o'clock a.m. the party arrived all right. I was soon +ready and lifted up into the saddle, and started at 10.10. During the day +it has been excessively hot. At 5.45 p.m. arrived at Mount Harris, being +nearly eight hours in the saddle, which is far more than I am able to +endure in my terribly weak state. It is between my shoulder-blades and +the small of my back that I am so much affected while riding. When the +pain from them becomes unbearable I endeavour to get on as far as I can +by supporting my weight upon my arms until they give way. I arrived here +in a state of utmost exhaustion; so much so that I was quite unable to +eat a single mouthful of anything. After we had the horses unpacked, a +few natives made their appearance on the side of the mount, calling out +something and pointing to the north-east. Sent Thring and King to see if +they could make anything of them, but they soon ran down the other side +of the mount, and, when seen again, were marching off in the direction +they had pointed out. They had taken good care before leaving to use +nearly all the water in the crevices of the granite rocks; they left +about a quart. Finding it quite impossible to remain so long in the +saddle as I have done to-day, I got Mr. Kekwick and some of the others to +construct a stretcher during the night, which I hope will enable me to do +a long journey to-morrow. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 26th October, Mount Harris. Had the stretcher placed between two +horses. Had great difficulty before we could get two that would allow it +to be passed between them. At last succeeded in getting two that we +thought would do very well, as they seemed to go very quietly with it. I +shall continue on horseback until I find that I have got enough of it. +Started a little after sunrise. I found I could continue two hours and a +half in the saddle without fatiguing myself too much. Having done this, I +sent to the rear of the party for the stretcher, when, to my great +disappointment and vexation, I found that a short time before something +had annoyed one of the horses, which set to and kicked it all to pieces, +which is a great misfortune. I continued in the saddle, and proceeded +until I was exhausted, which happened at the end of fifteen miles, when I +was compelled to stop. Keeping Auld with me, and some water, I sent on +the party and all the horses to Mount Hay. If they find water they are to +camp and return for me to-morrow; if not, they are to push on to the +Hamilton Spring; if that is gone, they will have to cross the range to +Brinkley Bluff. I find myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I am +very ill indeed. Wind, south-east. + +Monday, 27th October, Hills North of Mount Hay. About 11.30 a.m. King and +Nash returned for me. Thring had found water in one of the gullies, but +the approach to it was very rough and stony indeed. Thring had gone to +see if there was any water in the clay-pans that I had camped at on my +journey up, and if there is, will take the party over there, and will +send one of the men to meet me and inform me of it. The distance from +here to the water is ten miles. Had the horses saddled; mounted, and +proceeded towards it. At the end of two hours the motion of the horse +became so dreadful to me, and the pain I was suffering from was such as +no language can describe; but I still continued in the saddle, and, +within a mile and a half of the water, met Frew, whom Thring had sent to +say that he had found plenty of water in the clay-pans, with green grass, +and that the party had moved on to it. Distance from where we were then +to the clay-pans, six miles further. I could no more sit in the saddle +that distance than I could fly; I am now already completely exhausted, +and have still a mile and a half to ride before I can reach the other +water. To that I must go, and see what a night's rest will do in the +morning. While taking a drink of water, I was seized with a violent fit +of vomiting blood and mucus, which lasted about five minutes, and nearly +killed me. Sent Frew on to the party. Went on the best way I could with +the other three to the water. Arrived there feeling worse than I have +ever done before. I have told King and Nash to remain with me in case of +my dying during the night, as it would be lonely for one young man to be +here by himself. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 28th October, Mount Hay. Started in the cool of the morning, and +in two hours reached where the party were camped, so much exhausted and +so completely done up that I could not speak a word--the power of speech +has completely left me. I was lifted from the saddle and placed under the +shade of a mulga bush. In about ten minutes I recovered my speech. I find +that I can no longer sit on horseback; gave orders for some of the party +to make a sort of reclining seat, to be carried between two horses, one +before the other; also gave orders that a horse was to be shot at +sundown, as we are getting rather short of meat, and I hope the change of +beef tea made from fresh meat will give me some increase of strength, for +I am now reduced to a perfect skeleton, a mere shadow. At sundown had the +horse shot; fresh meat to the party is now a great treat. I am denied +participating in that pleasure, from the dreadful state in which my mouth +still is. I can chew nothing, and all that I have been living on is a +little beef tea, and a little boiled flour, which I am obliged to +swallow. To-night I feel very ill, and very, very low indeed. Wind, +south-east, with a few clouds. + +Wednesday, 29th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. This morning I feel +a little relieved in comparison with my exhausted state of yesterday. I +had a very troubled night's rest. All hands cutting up the horse, and +hanging up the meat to dry. Thring and Nash out for two long poles to fix +the chair in, which they succeeded in finding. At twelve o'clock had all +the meat of the horse cut up and hung up to dry. Day oppressively hot. +Wind, south-east. Clouds. + +Thursday, 30th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I think I am a +little better this morning, but still very weak and helpless. Find that +the chair will not answer the purpose, and must have a stretcher instead. +Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 31st October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I felt a little +improvement this morning, which I hope will continue; and I think I have +reached the turn of this terrible disease. On Tuesday night I certainly +was in the grasp of death; a cold clammy perspiration, with a tremulous +motion, kept creeping slowly over my body during the night, and +everything near me had the smell of decaying mortality in the last stage +of decomposition and of the grave. I sincerely thank the Almighty Giver +of all Good, that He, in His infinite goodness and mercy, gave me +strength and courage to overcome the grim and hoary-headed king of +terrors, and has kindly permitted me yet to live a little longer in this +world. Auld, who was in attendance upon me on that night, informed me +that my breath smelt the same as the atmosphere of a room in which a +dead body had been kept for some days. What a sad difference there is +from what I am now and what I was when the party left North Adelaide! My +right hand nearly useless to me by the accident from the horse; total +blindness after sunset--although the moon shines bright to others, to me +it is total darkness--and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak +and painful that I am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to +that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantine weakness +--a sad, sad wreck of former days. Wind variable. + +Saturday, 1st November, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. Although in such a +weak state, I shall try if I can ride in the stretcher as far as Hamilton +Springs. Started early; found the stretcher to answer very well. On +arriving at the springs, saw that there was not sufficient water for the +horses, and, as I had stood this part of the journey so well, made up my +mind to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. Proceeded, and arrived there +about five o'clock p.m. I have stood the long journey far better than I +expected, but feel very tired and worn out. Wind variable. Cloudy. + +Sunday, 2nd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Got a few hours' good +sleep during the night, and feel a good deal better this morning. Day +still cloudy. Wind variable. + +Monday, 3rd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Started at 7.30 a.m. for +Owen Springs. Saw where one of the horses died that I was compelled to +leave behind on coming up. As there is only the hair of his mane and tail +to be seen, and not a single bone, I am inclined to think that he has +been killed, carried off, and eaten by the natives. I expect the other +one has shared the same fate. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at the springs. Plenty +of water. I have stood the journey very well, but am very tired. Wind, +south-east. + +Tuesday, 4th November, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 a.m., +passing through the gorge of the Waterhouse range. At 1.20 arrived at the +springs under the conglomerate rock, a mile and a half north-east of the +gorge in James range. I feel the shaking of the stretcher very much, and +am again very tired, but am glad to find that I am getting a little +stronger. Wind, south-east. The clouds are all gone. + +Wednesday, 5th November, Spring, Conglomerate Rock, The Hugh. Started at +7.25 a.m. Passed through the gorge of James range and proceeded to the +side creek in which water was obtained on coming up. Found some still +there. Camped. Sent four of the party to clear out the hole; in the +meantime sent Thring up the side creek to see if there is any surface +water left from the showers of rain that have fallen here some short time +ago. Since leaving the McDonnell range we have had plenty of green grass, +showing that rain has fallen some time back; it has made no impression +upon the large creek, which is quite dry. In a short time Thring +returned; he has seen as much as will do for forty horses to-night, which +is a good thing. Sent him up with them, and watered the remainder at this +hole, into which the water comes very slowly, in consequence of the main +creek having none in its bed below the sand. I again feel tired from the +shaking of the horses and the stretcher. The swelling of my gums and the +black blisters, which have been so very painful for such a long time +back, are slowly giving way before some vegetable food which I have been +able to get since coming into the green, grassy country; I hope it will +soon cure me. My teeth are still loose, but it is a great thing to get a +little relief from a great mouthful of swollen, blistered, and most +painful gums. When my mouth was closed I had scarcely room for my tongue; +the blisters are now much reduced. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 6th November, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 towards the Finke; at +five p.m. met with some water in a clay-pan, and camped. I am a little +stronger to-day, and feel that I am gradually improving. Wind, +south-east. Night and morning cool. + +Friday, 7th November, North of the Finke. Proceeded to Pascoe Springs in +the Finke; found plenty of water and camped. Day oppressively hot. Wind, +south-east. + +Saturday, 8th November, Pascoe Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Sullivan +Creek and found sufficient water to do for us until Monday morning, and +this being a place for feed for the horses, I shall remain here until +that time. I feel very tired and sore after this rough week's work, and +am glad of a day's rest. I feel a gradual improvement in my health and +strength, which I hope will continue to increase. Wind variable, mostly +from south-east. + +Sunday, 9th November, Sullivan Creek. During the night had a few drops of +rain; heavy clouds to the west, north-west, north, north-east, and east. +Wind blowing strong and variable. Sundown: the sky overcast with heavy +clouds. + +Monday, 10th November, Sullivan Creek. Some of the horses missing this +morning. Did not get a start till nine o'clock a.m. Day oppressively hot. +Crossed the Finke three times, and arrived at Polly Springs, where there +is plenty of water. Camped. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 11th November, Polly Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Marchant +Springs. Camped. The water is low and rather boggy. Dug a place about +eighteen inches deep in the firm ground, and the water came boiling up. I +am happy to find that I am gaining a little strength again. I was able to +walk two or three steps by leaning upon two of the party, but the pain +was very severe. Wind, south-east; a few clouds about. + +Wednesday, 12th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. As I am not +certain of water at the next two camps, I will rest the horses as well as +myself here to-day, for we both require it very much; it will enable them +to stand a long push if required. A number of showers of rain seem to +have fallen here this month. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 13th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. Started at 7.40. +Proceeded towards the Goyder, and at nine miles found myself in as dry a +country as ever; not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for upwards +of twelve months. On arriving at the Goyder found a little moisture at +the bottom of the sand in the rocks--not enough for the horses. Pushed on +towards the Coglin, and at dark camped in the mulga scrub without water. +Day most oppressively hot. Light wind from south-east. + +Friday, 14th November, Mulga Scrub. Started at six o'clock a.m. Examined +the different creeks in which I found water on my journey to the north +but there was not a drop. At twelve miles reached the Coglin--none there. +Country all in the same dry state. Proceeded on to the Lindsay, where I +am sure of water. At four o'clock arrived there and found plenty. Camped. +Thanks be to God, I am once more within the boundary of South Australia! +I little expected it about a fortnight ago. If the summer rain has fallen +to the south of this, there will be little difficulty in my getting down. +I am again suffering very much from exhaustion, caused by a severe attack +of dysentery, which has thrown me back a good deal in the strength I was +collecting so quickly, but I hope it will not continue long. Wind, +south-east. + +Saturday, 15th November, The Lindsay. At day-break I have sent Thring to +the Stevenson to see if there is water there, either on the surface or by +digging in the sand; if there is I shall move the party over there +to-day, and on Monday morning start for the Hamilton (I expect no water +between); and if not, I shall remain here till that time and push for the +Hamilton. About ten o'clock a.m. he returned and reported no water, only +a little moisture on the top of the clay beneath the sand. Day very hot. +I still continue to be very unwell. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 16th November, The Lindsay. Day oppressively hot. Light winds, +south-east. + +Monday, 17th November, The Lindsay. Started soon after sunrise, crossed +the Stevenson and the Ross; both quite dry. Proceeded across Bagot range +to the gum water-hole; that is also dry. Found a little rain water in one +of the small creeks, but not enough for all the horses. The day being +excessively hot, the journey very rough and stony, and many of them lame +from want of shoes, also it being near sundown, and there being a little +green grass about, I have camped. Wind variable. + +Tuesday, 18th November, The Gums, Bagot Range. Started at 5.40 a.m. to +the large waterhole in the Hamilton; in about a mile found some rain +water, which I allowed the horses to drink. At 10 a.m. arrived at the +large water-hole, and found it very low indeed; a great number of dead +fish all round it. This must certainly be a very unprecedentedly dry +season indeed; this water-hole does not seem to have received any water +for the last two years. The water being old and stagnant, I am afraid +will make us ill; we have all already been suffering much from stagnant +waters we have been compelled to use. I, however, must give the horses a +day's rest to enable them to make the next and last push, nearly a +hundred miles, to the first springs. From the dryness of the season, I +scarcely expect to find water before I reach them, which will be a severe +trial for the horses, the weather being so extremely hot. I am still +suffering very much from the effect of the stagnant waters; they have +sent me back again nearly to my former state of weakness, and have +assisted in checking my recovery from the scurvy, which is now again +gaining ground upon me since I lost the vegetable food. The country being +now so dry, there having been no late rain, there is not a blade of grass +to be seen. Hot wind from the north. This is the first and only hot wind +I have felt during the whole journey from Mount Margaret to the +sea-coast, and back to this place. In the afternoon the sky became +overcast with heavy clouds. At sundown the wind changed to west, and blew +very strong till eleven o'clock p.m.; we then had a few drops of rain, +but not enough to moisten the surface of the ground; after this it became +calm, the clouds broken, and there was no more of it. + +Wednesday, 19th November, The Hamilton. This morning still cloudy, but +excessively close and hot. I am glad that I resolved to remain here +to-day, for the poor horses would have felt it very much travelling over +the high and heavy sand hills that we have to go over in the first day's +journey. In the afternoon the sky again became overcast with heavy +clouds, and there was a great deal of thunder and lightning to the west +and north, and again, at the same time as last night, we were favoured +with a few drops of rain; the result the same as it was then. Wind +variable and squally. + +Thursday, 20th November, The Hamilton. This morning the clouds have +cleared away, but there is a nice cool strong breeze from the south-east +and east--a fine thing for the horses crossing the heavy sand hills. +Started at six o'clock a.m. Got over them very well, and reached the +mulga plain. About twelve the wind ceased, and it became very hot. In the +afternoon one of the horses (Trussell) began to show symptoms of being +very ill. One of the party was riding him at the time. I had him changed +immediately and allowed him to run loose, but he seemed to have lost all +spirit and soon dropped behind. I then had him led and driven for upwards +of two miles until I reached the Frew or Upper Neale. The dreadfully dry +state of the country since leaving the sand hills--it being completely +parched up--leaving me no hope of getting water until I reached the gap +in Hanson range or the Freeling Springs, and it being quite impossible +for us to drag him on there, I was compelled to abandon him, as it would +only knock up the other horses to drive him on. Proceeded through a still +parched-up country to the large dry lagoon, and at dark camped without +water. Wind, south-east. + +Friday, 21st November, Large Dry Lagoon. Started at break of day through +some low sand hills, with valleys and clay-pans, all dry. At a little +more than six miles after starting, I was rather surprised to find recent +tracks of horses that had been feeding on and about our tracks. Thinking +it might be a party out looking for us, as I have now been some time +longer than I anticipated at starting, I sent Thring to examine and see +how many horses there were. In about half an hour he returned, and said +that he could only make out two, and those I immediately concluded were +two of the horses that had given in near this place on my journey to the +north. Proceeded on to the camp where I had buried the two hundred pounds +of sugar, frequently meeting their tracks, apparently in search of water. +Arrived at the camp, but there is not a drop there, and no appearance of +the two horses, but only their tracks in the bed of the creek, following +it down to the eastward, where there must be permanent water that has +supplied them during the past year. A thunder-shower must have brought +them out to visit the spot where they were first left. I should have +liked very much to have regained them, but the dry state of the country +and the want of water will not allow me to look for them. Found that the +things buried had been disturbed, and most of them carried away by the +natives--the others all destroyed--the sugar all gone, except about five +pounds, which was left in the hole and covered up. Proceeded, crossing +side branches of the Neale, but not a drop of water in any of +them--everything dried up. Went on towards the gap in Hanson range. At +about eight miles before reaching it, Frew's horse (Holland) knocked up +with him; he could not get him on a step further, and had to leave him. +On reaching the Lindsay, this horse had been allowed by Frew to drink too +much water, and had not recovered from the effects of it. At dark arrived +at the gap, and found plenty of water, for which I am very thankful, for +there are many of the horses that would not have stood another day's +journey without it. Day exceedingly hot. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 22nd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Resting horses, etc. Sent +Frew in search of his horse shortly after sunrise. About half-past two he +returned, and reports that he cannot be found; that he had searched round +about the creeks and gullies where he had been left, but could find +nothing of him, and the country was too stony to track him. Day again +very hot. + +Sunday, 23rd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Started at six o'clock a.m., +intending to get to Freeling Springs, but one of the horses that had +eaten poison about the Roper country, and has never recovered from it, +but was always very poor, and of no use whatever, knocked up, and would +not move a step further; being only six miles from where we started, we +left him and proceeded on our journey. About this time the wind changed +to the north, and it came on to blow a fierce hot wind, and by the middle +of the day it was almost unbearable. Two more of the horses knocked up, +and being nearly opposite the McEllister Springs, I turned to them and +camped. These springs required to be dug out before we could get water +enough for all the horses. After opening two of them, we found them to +yield a sufficient supply. Still continuing to blow a terrific hot wind +from the north. A little before sundown it changed, and came on to blow +from the south, and blew the hot wind back again. For three hours it was +as hot as when coming from the north. + +Monday, 24th November McEllister Springs. Proceeded to the Freeling +Springs and camped. This journey was as much as the horses are now able +to do. The stagnant and spring waters have weakened them so much that I +shall be compelled to rest them some time at Mr. Jarvis's, Levi's +station, before they will be able to perform the remainder of the journey +to Adelaide, that is, if I can get them that length. + +Tuesday, 25th November, Freeling Springs. Found one of the chestnut +horses that was left here. The other one seems to have been taken on to +Mr. Jarvis's. Started shortly after sunrise. Proceeded to the Milne +Springs and camped. The day again extremely hot. Wind still from the +south-east. Twenty miles a day is now as much as my horses can +accomplish. + +Wednesday, 26th November, Milne Springs. Proceeded to Mr. Jarvis's +station, Mount Margaret, which I expected to reach without losing any +more horses, but I am disappointed, for I had to leave four behind +knocked up, which I shall be able to recover to-morrow or the next day. +Mr. Jarvis being from home, we were received by his men with a hearty +welcome, and were shown every kindness and attention that was in their +power. Day again very hot. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 27th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Sent out +and had the one that knocked up about two miles from here brought in. I +am still very ill, but am able to walk a few yards without assistance. I +hope a few days will benefit me much. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. +Clouds. + +Friday, 28th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Still +cloudy. Promising rain. Sent out and had the other three knocked-up +horses brought in all right. Yesterday got in the other chestnut horse +left at the Freeling Springs, and brought down here by Woodforde. Clouds +breaking up. No rain. Wind, south-east. + +Saturday, 29th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses, etc. I +find the scurvy is fast gaining upon me, although I have had fresh meat +for the last few days. I must therefore push on as fast as possible down +the country, in order to get some vegetables. I shall start to-morrow +evening, and travel during the night to the William Spring to avoid the +great heat of the day, taking with me the stretcher (for I am not yet +able to ride), three men, and the strongest horses, leaving the rest here +for another week to recover with remainder of the party in command of Mr. +Kekwick, who, as soon as the horses are sufficiently strong, will conduct +the party to Adelaide. Clouds all gone. Wind, south-east. + +Sunday, 30th November, Near Mount Margaret Station. Started at five p.m. +for the William Spring with fourteen horses, leaving the weak and done-up +ones at Mount Margaret for another week to recover. I have also brought +on with me Auld, King, and Billiatt. The others I have left with Mr. +Kekwick, to whom I have given command of the party, and who will conduct +them to Adelaide by easy stages, as soon as the horses are able to +travel. I travelled during the night, and arrived at the spring a little +before six a.m. Camped, unsaddled the horses, and turned them in amongst +the young reeds to feed, which they seemed very eager for. + +Monday, 1st December, William Spring. During the day the horse that I was +compelled to leave here on my northward journey came towards the others, +but appeared very shy. I left him alone till nearly sundown, when I sent +King to see if he had joined them, and to see if the others were all +right. At dark he returned, and reported them to be all right, and that +the other had joined them. He tried to catch him, but that he would not +allow, so he left him with the others during the night. The day has been +very close and oppressive, with heavy clouds and distant thunder. I am +glad I performed this long journey during the night. Wind, south-east. +Clouds all gone. + +Tuesday, 2nd December, William Spring. Got all the horses into camp, and +attempted to catch the stranger, but could not without roping him; I +therefore drove him along with the others to the Beresford Springs, and +then he allowed himself to be caught and hobbled. The journey has quieted +him. It is the longest journey he has had for nearly twelve months. I +arrived about four o'clock p.m., and there being plenty of young reeds, +camped. The day has been again very hot, but occasionally strong breezes +from the south-east and east. + +Wednesday, 3rd December, Beresford Springs. Proceeded to Mount Hamilton +Station, where I received a very kind reception from Mr. Brown, and was +treated with the greatest possible kindness. Toward evening I again felt +very ill. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. + +Thursday, 4th December, Mount Hamilton Station. I have been very ill +during the night, but started for Chambers Creek. Arrived there about +mid-day, where I again experienced a like hospitable reception and great +kindness from Mr. Lee. Wind variable. Day extremely hot. + +Friday, 5th December, Chambers Creek. I shall require to rest my horses +here to-day. I was in great hopes that when I reached this place I should +have been again able to have ridden on horseback, but the waters of the +spring country through which I have just passed have reduced me nearly to +my former state of weakness, and I shall still be compelled to continue +in the ambulance a little longer. I feel a little better this morning--I +suppose in consequence of drinking fresh water. Hot wind from the north. +Towards evening a heavy thunderstorm coming from the westward. + +Saturday, 6th December, Chambers Creek. Started at eight o'clock with the +ambulance towards Termination Hill. After crossing numerous sand hills, +we frequently found rain water. Towards sundown arrived at the south side +of Porter Hill. Found rain water, and camped, one of the horses being +nearly knocked up. I shall be compelled to take to the saddle to-morrow, +for the ambulance horses will not be able to carry me further. I must +send them back to the creek, there to rest till the others come down. +Cloudy. Wind variable. + +Sunday, 7th December, Porter Hill. Mounted and started at six a.m. I find +that I can endure the motion of the horse better than I expected; but +about mid-day began to feel it very much. Towards four o'clock found some +rain water about ten miles from Termination Hill, for which I am very +thankful, for I could not have continued the journey any further. Camped. +Wind variable. + +Monday, 8th December, Termination Hill. During the night had a heavy +thunderstorm and shower from the south-east. Started at six a.m. and +arrived at Mr. Glen's Station at sundown, quite done up; received a +hearty welcome. Encountered a heavy storm of thunder and lightning a few +miles from the station. Wind, south-east. + +Tuesday, 9th December, Mr. Glen's Station. Proceeded to Mount Stuart +Station, where I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. John Chambers, who +received me with great kindness. There has been some heavy rain here +lately. Wind, south-east. Day hot. + +Wednesday, 10th December, Mount Stuart Station. Accompanied by Mr. +Chambers, proceeded to Moolooloo, and arrived there in the afternoon +completely tired and exhausted from riding in the saddle. Day hot. Wind, +east. + +In conclusion, I beg to say, that I believe this country (i.e., from the +Roper to the Adelaide and thence to the shores of the Gulf), to be well +adapted for the settlement of an European population, the climate being +in every respect suitable, and the surrounding country of excellent +quality and of great extent. Timber, stringy-bark, iron-bark, gum, etc., +with bamboo fifty to sixty feet high on the banks of the river, is +abundant, and at convenient distances. The country is intersected by +numerous springs and watercourses in every direction. In my journey +across I was not fortunate in meeting with thunder showers or heavy +rains; but, with the exception of two nights, I was never without a +sufficient supply of water. This will show the permanency of the +different waters, and I see no difficulty in taking over a herd of horses +at any time; and I may say that one of our party, Mr. Thring, is prepared +to do so. My party have conducted themselves throughout this long and +trying journey to my entire satisfaction; and I may particularly mention +Messrs. Kekwick and Thring, who had been with me on my former expedition. +During my severe illness every attention and sympathy were shown to me by +every one in the party, and I herewith beg to record to them my sincere +thanks. + +I may here mention that the accident which occurred to me at the starting +of the Expedition from Adelaide has rendered my right hand almost useless +for life. + +The Journal concludes with the following letter: + +To the Honourable H.B.T. Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands and +Immigration. + +Adelaide, December 18, 1862. + +Sir, + +For the information of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief, I have the +honour to report to you my return to Adelaide, after an absence of twelve +months and thirteen days; and I herewith beg to hand you my chart and +journals of the Expedition from which I have just returned. + +To you, Sir, and the Government, my especial thanks are due for the +liberal manner in which the supplies were voted, and for the kind and +ready assistance I at all times experienced. Also to George Hamilton, +Esquire, Chief Inspector of Police, for the efficient manner in which my +party was fitted out. The original promoters of my various expeditions, +Messrs. James Chambers and William Finke, have always shown the most +lively interest in my success, to which they cheerfully contributed. How +much I regret the unexpected decease of the first-named gentleman I need +here hardly state, for he was indeed heart and soul in the result, and +no one would have felt so proud of my success as my much-lamented and +best friend James Chambers. To Mr. John Chambers I am also under many +obligations for assistance in many instances, and I hereby tender him my +best thanks. + +I have the honour, etc., + +J.M. STUART. + + + +APPENDIX. + +[FROM THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. JUNE 9, +1863.] + +ON A COLLECTION OF BIRDS FROM CENTRAL AUSTRALIA. + +BY JOHN GOULD, F.R.S., ETC. + +The Board of Governors of the South Australian Institute having +liberally forwarded for my inspection a selection from the +ornithological collection made by Mr. Frederick G. Waterhouse during Mr. +Stuart's late Exploratory Expedition into Central Australia, I have +thought the matter of sufficient interest to bring these birds under the +notice of the Society, the more so as it will enable me to make known +through our Proceedings a new and very beautiful species of Parrakeet +pertaining to the genus Polyteles, of which only two have been hitherto +known. Every ornithologist must be acquainted with the elegant +P. melanurus and P. barrabandi, and I feel assured that the acquisition of +an additional species of this lovely form will be hailed with pleasure. +The specific appellation I would propose for this novelty is alexandrae, +in honour of that Princess who, we may reasonably hope, is destined at +some future time to be the Queen of these realms and their dependencies, +of which Australia is by no means the most inconspicuous. + +Polyteles alexandrae, sp. nov. + +Forehead delicate light blue; lower part of the cheeks, chin, and throat +rose-pink; head, nape, mantle, back, and scapularies olive-green; lower +part of the back and rump blue, of a somewhat deeper tint than that of +the crown; shoulders and wing-coverts pale yellowish green; spurious wing +bluish green; external webs of the principal primaries dull blue, +narrowly edged with greenish yellow; the remaining primaries olive-green, +edged with greenish yellow; under wing-coverts verditer-green; breast and +abdomen olive-grey, tinged with vinous; thighs rosy red; upper +tail-coverts olive, tinged with blue; two centre tail-feathers bluish +olive-green; the two next on each side olive-green on their outer webs +and dark brown on the inner ones; the remaining tail-feathers +tricoloured, the central portion being black, the outer olive-grey, and +the inner deep rosy red; under tail-coverts olive; bill coral red; feet +nearly brown. + +Total length 14 inches; bill 1/2; wing 7; tail 9; tarsi 7/8. + +Habitat. Howell Ponds, Central Australia, 16 degrees 54 minutes 7 seconds +South latitude. + +Remark. This is in every respect a typical Polyteles, having the delicate +bill and elegantly striped tail characteristic of that form. It is of the +same size as P. barrabandi, but differs from that species in having the +crown blue and the lower part of the cheeks rose-pink instead of yellow. + +The following is a list of the other species of birds comprised in the +collection: + +Trichoglossus rubritorquis. Rare. + +Aprosmictus erythropterus. + +Platycercus brownii. Rare. + +Struthidea cinerea. + +Climacteris melanura. + +Pomatorhinus rubecula. Rare. + +Cincloramphus cruralis. + +Artamus leucopygialis. + +Artamus cinereus. Rare. + +Colluricincla brunnea. + +Petroica bicolor. + +Pardalotus rubricatus. Extremely rare: the second specimen seen. + +Graucalus melanops. + +Tropidorhynchus argenteiceps. + +Geopelia cuneata. + +Geopelia humeralis. + +Erythrogonys cinctus. + +... + + +[FROM THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 10, +1863.] + +DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW SPECIES OF FRESHWATER SHELLS COLLECTED BY MR. F.G. +WATERHOUSE, DURING J. McDOUALL STUART'S OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM ADELAIDE TO +THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. BY ARTHUR ADAMS, F.L.S., AND G. FRENCH +ANGAS, CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY. + +1. Vivipara waterhousii, Adams & Angas. + +V. testa turbinata, globoso-conica, late umbilicata, spira elatiuscula, +epidermide tenui fusco-viridi obtecta; anfractibus convexis, ad suturas +subplanatis, faciis tribus vel quatuor angustis olivaceo-viridibus +transversis ornatis; anfractu ultimo inflato, lineis duabus impressis ad +peripheriam instructo; apertura ovata, postice subangulata; labio +simplici; labro acuto. + +Long. 2 inches, lat. 1 inch 8 lines. + +Habitat. Newcastle Waters, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas): + +This fine species most nearly resembles Vivipara ussuriensis, Gerst.; but +the last whorl is more inflated, and the surface of the shell is not +malleated or lirate. It is the largest species yet discovered on the +Australian continent. We have great pleasure in dedicating it to F.G. +Waterhouse, Esquire, who, under great difficulties during the expedition, +succeeded in making many valuable additions to science. + +2. Vivipara kingi, Adams & Angas. + +V. testa turbinata, globoso-conica, umbilicata, spira mediocri erosa +nodulosa, epidermide tenui pallide fusco-viridi obtecta, ad apicem +purpurascente; anfractibus convexis, lineolis transversis et +longitudinalibus elevatis decussatis, anfractu ultimo ad basin sulcis +impressis spiralibus instructo; apertura ovata, antice subeffusa; labio +vix reflexo. + +Long. 1 inch, lat. 8 lines. + +Habitat. King's Ponds, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas). + +This is a neat, finely-decussated, concolorous species, with the upper +whorls nodulous from erosion, as in Vivipara praerosa, Gerst. It is named +after Mr. Stephen King, one of the gentlemen who accompanied the +expedition. + +3. Melania (Melasma) onca, Adams & Angas. + +M. testa fusiformi-turrita; spira elata, conica; epidermide pallide +olivaceo induta, rufo-fusca, pulcherrime maculata, maculis saepe in +lineis undulatis longitudinalibus dispositis; anfractibus planis, +longitudinaliter plicatis, plicis aequalibus regularibus subdistantibus, +ad suturas nodulosis; apertura oblongo-ovata, antice effusa; labio +subincrassato; labro simplici, acuto. + +Long. 1 inch, lat. 4 lines. + +Habitat. Tributary of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas). + +A species remarkable both for the elegance of its form and the beauty of +its painting. The whorls are plicate, with a necklace-like series of +nodules at the sutures; and the shell is covered with dark red-brown +spots, suggestive of its specific name. + +4. Amphipeplea vinosa, Adams & Angas. + +A. testa ovata; spira mediocri, tenui, semipellucida, vinosa; anfractu +ultimo magno, ventricoso, postice ad suturas gibboso; apertura ovata; +labio callo tenui mediocri obtecto, columella spiraliter tortuosa; labro +convexo, margine acuto. + +Long. 9 lines, lat. 5 lines. + +Habitat. Tributary of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas). + +This species may readily be distinguished on account of its peculiar +vinous colour. The whorls are posteriorly gibbose or tumid at the +sutures, and the callus is less spreading than in others of the genus. + +5. Amphipeplea phillipsi, Adams & Angas. + +A. testa ovata; spira elata, acuta, tenui, cornea; anfractu ultimo magno, +non ventricoso, transversim creberrime striato; apertura oblongo-ovali; +labio callo tenui expanso obtecto; labro simplici, acuto. + +Long. 9 lines, lat. 4 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas). + +A neat, horn-coloured, finely transversely striated species, with an +acute elevated spire. We have named it after Mr. T. Phillips, who has +assiduously collected many new Australian shells. + +6. Physa newcombi, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa ovata, umbilicata; spira mediocri, acuta, ad apicem integra, +cornea, viridescente aut pallide fulva; anfractibus quinque, convexis, +saepe plus minusve transversim subliratis; apertura ovata; labio reflexo, +umbilicum partim tegente; labro vix incrassato, peristomate nigrescente. + +Long. 10 lines, lat. 7 lines. + +Habitat. Ponds at Mount Margaret (Coll. Angas.) + +We have much pleasure in naming this noble Physa after Dr. Newcomb, the +distinguished American conchologist, who has contributed so much, by his +researches in the Sandwich Islands, to our knowledge of the genus +Helicter or Achatinella. The species is widely umbilicated, and the +peristome is usually dark-coloured. + +7. Physa ferruginea, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa ovata, rimata, ferruginea; spira mediocri, apice eroso; +anfractibus tribus, convexis, simplicibus, transversim crebre +crenato-striatis; apertura ovata, intus purpurascente; labio tenui, late +reflexo; labro acuto. + +Long. 5 lines, lat. 4 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land, North-west Australia (Coll. Angas.) + +This is a small ferruginous species, with the whorls finely transversely +striated. + +8. Physa badia, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa elongato-ovata, imperforata, solida, badia; spira elata, apice +obtuso eroso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis, longitudinaliter +strigillatis; apertura elongato-ovata; labio albo, excavato, lirula +antica subspirali instructo; labro arcuato, in medio producto, intus +fusco tincto. + +Long. 1 inch, lat. 6 lines. + +Habitat. Tributaries of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.) + +A fine, solid, brown species, generally more or less eroded, and with a +peculiarly strongly plicate columella. + +9. Physa olivacea, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa elongato-ovata, imperforata, solidiuscula, olivacea; spira +elata, attenuata, apice eroso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis; +apertura ovato-acuta; labio incrassato, flexuoso; labro acuto, margine +arcuato. + +Long. 6 lines, lat. 3 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.) + +A neat, olive-coloured species, somewhat resembling in form the British +Aplexa hypnorum, but without the polished exterior of the latter. + +10. Physa concinna, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa ovata, imperforata, solidiuscula, cornea; spira brevi, acuta, +apice interdum papilloso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis; +transversim striatis; apertura acuto-ovata; labio incrassato, spiraliter +valde tortuoso; labro intus incrassato et fusco tincto, margine acuto, +arcuato. + +Long. 6 lines, lat. 3 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.) + +A pale horn-coloured, somewhat solid species, with a moderately elevated +spire, acute (not eroded) at the apex, and with the terminal whorls +sometimes papillary. + +11. Physa (Ameria) reevii, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa ovali, postice abrupte truncata, imperforata, cornea; spira +plana, tenui; anfractibus quatuor, planis, ultimo permagno, postice acute +angulato, transversim obsolete striato; apertura oblongo-truncata; labio +antice valde tortuoso; labro postice angulato. + +Long. 6 lines, lat. 4 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.) + +We have much pleasure in dedicating this singular species to Mr. Lovell +Reeve, who has evinced much interest in the shells of this group. The +last whorl is acutely angulate posteriorly, and the spire is tabulated, +giving to the shell a peculiar truncate appearance. + +12. Physa (Ameria) bonus-henricus, Adams & Angas. + +P. testa ovata, rimata, tenui, cornea; spira vix elata, plana; +anfractibus tribus, planis, postice angulatis, ultimo magno, inflato, +ventricoso, postice subangulato, longitudinaliter plus minusve plicato; +apertura ovata; labio tenui, subtortuoso; labro simplici, margine +arcuato. + +Long. 4 lines, lat. 2 1/2 lines. + +Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.) + +This is a small inflated species, with a short truncate spire. We have +dedicated it to the founder of the section Ameria, a gentleman well known +for his deep researches in conchology. + +13. Unio (Alasmodon) stuarti, Adams & Angas. + +U. testa transversim elongato-ovata, tenui, compressa, epidermide +olivaceo-fusca induta, postice corrugato-plicata, latere antico breviore +rotundato, postico longiore oblique subtruncato, margine ventrali +regulariter arcuato; umbonibus parvis, erosis, dentibus cardinalibus +elongatis valde divergentibus, postico bifido, antico prominulo; intus +iridescente. + +Alt. 1 1/2 inch, lat. 3 inches 2 lines. + +Habitat. Lagoon, Mount Margaret, Central Australia (Coll. Angas.) + +This species, which we have named after Mr. J. McD. Stuart, the leader of +the expedition, is the only Naiad, besides Alasmodon angasana of Lea, yet +discovered in the regions traversed by the explorers. + +... + +Description of a new Helix from the interior of Australia, by Dr. L. +Pfeiffer. + +Helix perinflata, Pfr. + +T. umbilicata, globosa, solida, striis incrementi rugosis et lineis +impressis antrorsum descendentibus decussata, isabellino-albida; spira +convexo-conoidea, apice obtusa; anfr. 4 1/2, ultimus magnus, ventrosus, +subtus, perinflatus, striis spiralibus obsolete sculptus, antice +deflexus; apertura diagonalis, lunari-rotundata; perist. breviter +expansum margine columellari supra umbilicum angustum fornicatim +dilatato. + +Diam. mag. 23 1/2, min. 20, alt. 20 mill. (Coll. Angas.) + +Habitat. McDonnell Range, Central Australia. Waterhouse, on Stuart's +expedition. + + +ENUMERATION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DURING MR. J. McDOUALL STUART'S +EXPEDITIONS ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT IN 1860, 1861, AND 1862. BY +FERDINAND MULLER, M.D., Ph.D., F.R.S. + +Dilleniaceae. + +Pachynema macrum, F.M. Purdie Ponds. Waterhouse. +Hibbertia glaberrima, F.M. Fragmenta, Phyt. Austr. iii. 1. Brinkley +Bluff, McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Nymphaeaceae. + +Nymphaea gigantea. Hook. Botanical Magazine 4647. Strangways River. + +Nelumbium speciosum, W. Sp. Pl. ii. 1258. Arnhem's Land. + +Capparideae. + +Capparis nummularia, Cand. Prodr. i. 246. Central Australia. + +Capparis lasiantha, R. Br in Cand. Prodr. i. 247. Near Central Mount +Stuart. + +Busbeckea umbonata (Capparis umbonata, Lindl. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. +275). Near Newcastle Waters and Attack Creek. Flowers similar to those of +B. Mitchellii. + +Droseraceae. + +Drosera indica, Linn. Sp. Pl. 403. On the Bonney and Finke Rivers and +Attack Creek, also in Central Australia. + +Violaceae. + +Ionidium enneaspermum, Vent. Malmais. page 27. Burke Creek. An allied +species with a blue labellum occurs in the collection gathered at Purdie +Ponds. + +Frankeniaceae. + +Frankenia laevis, Linn. Sp. 473 var. Finke River. + +Zygophylleae. + +Zygophyllum apiculatum, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 373. Stevenson River. + +Tribulus terrestris, Linn. Sp. 554. Mount Morphett. A large flowering +variety with petals 1 inch long. At Marchant Springs, Burke River, and +Attack Creek. + +Malvaceae. + +Hibiscus brachysiphonius, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 67. Near the +Strangways Range. + +Hibiscus pentaphyllus, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 13. Newcastle Waters +and Daly Waters. + +Hibiscus radiatus, Cav. Diss. iii. 150, t. 54, fig. 2. Purdie Ponds, +Newcastle Waters. Attack Creek. + +Hibiscus sturtii, Hook. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. page 363. North of +McDonnell Range. + +Hibiscus solanifolius, F.M. Fragm. ii. 116. Mount Denison. + +Hibiscus panduriformis, Burm. Fl. Ind. page 151, t. 47, f. 2. Burke +River. + +Gossypium Australe, F.M. Fragm. i. 46. Newcastle Waters, Waterhouse. +Between Mount Woodcock and the Davenport Ranges. + +Gossypium Sturtii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 6. as far north as the Stevenson +River. + +Abutilon tubulosum, All. Cunn. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 390. Burke River. + +Abutilon leucopetalum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 12. Daly Waters. + +Sida corrugata, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 12. Var. filipoda. +Attack Creek. J.M. Stuart. + +Sida cryphiopetala, F.M. Fragm. ii. 4. Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. +J.M. Stuart. + +Tiliaceae. + +Corchorus sidoides, F.M. Fragm. iii. 9. McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Triumfetta plumigera, F.M. Fragm. i. 69. Purdie Ponds. F. Waterhouse. + +Buettneriaceae. + +Kerandrenia nephrosperma, Benth. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society; +Seringea nephrosperma, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, 15. Towards +Arnhem's Land. + +Kerandrenia Hookeri, Walp. Annal. Bot. Syst. ii. 164. Near the Roper +River. + +Rulingia loxophylla, F.M. Fragm. i. 68. Towards Arnhem's Land. + +Melhania incana, Heyne in Wall. List. 1200. Burke River and Purdie Ponds. + +Sterculiaceae. + +Brachychiton ramiflorum, R. Br. in Horsf. Plant. Savan. rarior. 234. From +Burke Creek onward to Arnhem's Land. + +Cochlospermeae. + +Cochlospermum Gregorii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 71. Strangways River. + +Cochlospermum heteronemum, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, 15. +Strangways River. + +Meliaceae. + +Owenia acidula, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 304. Central Mount Stuart. + +Sapindaceae. + +Thouinia variifolia, Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 45. Crawford Range. + +Diplopeltis Stuartii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 12. Between Mount Morphett and the +Bonney River. J.M. Stuart. + +Distichostemon phyllopterus, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 306. Purdie +Ponds. Var. serrulatus; leaves tender, lanceolate, acute, serrulated; +stamens about 44. Burke River. + +Dodonaea lanceolata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 73. Purdie Ponds, +Waterhouse. Mount Woodcock. Stuart. + +Dodonaea platyptera, F.M. Fragm. i. 73. Strangways River. + +Dodonaea physocarpa, F.M. Fragm. i. 74. Daly Waters. + +Dodonaea microzyga, F.M. Somewhat viscid, almost glabrous; leaves with 1 +to 2 pairs of small obovate-cuneate leaflets; in front rounded, or +truncate, or retuse, or sometimes 3-toothed, flat at the margin; rachis +dilated; fruit-bearing pedicels solitary; capsules 3 to 4-celled; valves +cymbeo-semiorbicular, all around broadly winged; the wing rounded-blunt +on both extremities; dissepiments persistent with the columella. On the +River Neale. J.M. Stuart. + +A shrub with spreading and rigid branches. Most leaves about 1/2 an inch +long; leaflets 1 to 2 inches long; flowers unknown; capsule with the +wings added about 1/2 an inch long, shining, reddish; valves ceding from +the septa; ripe seeds unknown. + +The fruit of this species is almost like that of Dodonaea viscosa. + +Mollugineae. + +Mollugo trigastrotheca, F.M. Plants indigenous to Victoria, i. 201. +Arnhem's Land. + +Caryophylleae. + +Polycarpoea corymbosa, Lam. Mount Samuel. J.M. Stuart. + +Portulaceae. + +Portulaca oleracea, Linn. Sp. Pl. 638. Common in the interior and in +North Australia. + +Calandrinia Balonnensis, Lindl. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. page 148. River +Finke. + +Phytolacceae. + +Codonocarpus cotinifolius, F.M. Plants of Victoria, i. 200. From 300 to +800 miles north of Adelaide, F. Waterhouse; Central Mount Stuart, J.M. +Stuart. + +Gyrostemon ramulosus, Desf. in Memoir. du Museum, vi. 17 River Finke. +J.M. Stuart. + +Didymotheca pleiococca, F.M. Plants indigenous to Victoria, i. 198. +Between the River Bonney and Mount Morphett. J.M. Stuart. + +Leguminosae. + +Acacia retivenea, F.M. Fragm. iii. 128. Short Range. + +Acacia dictyophleba, F.M. Fragm. iii. 128. Mount Humphries. + +Acacia aneura, F.M. in Linnaea, xxvi. 627. Mulga. Over the whole of +Central Australia. F. Waterhouse. + +Acacia tumida, F.M. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society iii. 144. +Attack Creek. + +Acacia impressa, F.M. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society iii. 133. +Short Range. + +Acacia lycopodifolia, A. Cunn. in Hook. Icon. ii. t. 172. Towards +Arnhem's Land. + +Acacia umbellata, A. Cunn. in Hook. London Journal of Botany i. 378. +Robinson River. Stuart. + +Acacia holosericea, A. Cunn. in Don. Gen. Syst. ii. 407. Near Newcastle +Waters. + +Pithecolobium moniliferum, Benth. in Hook. Journal of Botany iii. 211. +Arnhem's Land. + +Neptunia spicata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 151. Arnhem's Land. + +Erythrophloeum Laboucherii, Laboucheria chlorostachya, F.M. in +Proceedings of the Linnean Society iii. 159. Newcastle Waters, Stuart; +Strangways River, Waterhouse. + +Cassia venusta, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 165. Newcastle Waters and +Mount Freeling. J.M. Stuart. + +Cassia notabilis, F.M. Fragm. ii. 28. Between the River Bonney and Mount +Morphett. + +Cassia Absus, Linn. Spec. Plant. 537. Arnhem's Land. + +Cassia oligoclada, F.M. Fragm. iii. 49. Attack Creek. + +Cassia desolata, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852. Central Australia. + +Cassia eremophila, A. Cunn. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. ii. 77. +Central Australia. + +Petalogyne labicheoides, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1856. From latitude +30 degrees South to latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes South. J.M. Stuart. +Petalogyne cassioides forms merely a variety of this species. + +Erythrina biloba, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, page 21. Common to +most creeks, from latitude 22 degrees to 19 degrees South. Wood soft, +corky. J.M. Stuart. Stuart's Bean-tree is a species of Erythrina. + +Bauhinia Leichartdtii, F.M. in Transact. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 50. +Hayward Creek. J.M. Stuart. + +Gastrolobium grandiflorum, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 17. Whittington +Range, J.M. Stuart; Purdie Ponds, where it attains a height of 8 feet, +Waterhouse. + +Gompholobium polyzygum, F.M. Fragm. ii. 29. Between Mount Morphett and +the Bonney River. + +Jacksonia odontoclada, F.M. Between Newcastle Water and Attack Creek. +J.M. Stuart. + +Isotropis atropurpurea, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 16. Attack Creek, +and between Mount Morphett and the Bonney River. J.M. Stuart. + +Leptosema Chambersii, F.M. Essay on the Plants of the Burdekin Expedition +page 8. Near Davenport Range, and between the Rivers Finke and Stevenson. + +Crotalaria medicaginea, Lamb. Dict. ii. 201. Newcastle Waters. J.M. +Stuart. + +Crotolaria dissitiflora, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 386. Newcastle +Waters and McDonnell Range. Stuart. + +Crotalaria Mitchellii, Benth. l. c. 120. Central Australia. + +Crotalaria Cunninghami, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Austr. Append. 71. +Burke Creek, Waterhouse; Mount Humphries, Stuart. + +Indigofera hirsuta, L. Sp. Pl. 1862. Arnhem's Land. + +Indigofera viscosa, Lam. Encyl. Menth. iii. 247. Brinkley Bluff. Stuart. + +Indigofera oxycarpa, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 103. Burke Creek. +Waterhouse. + +Indigofera brevidens, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 385. Central +Australia. + +Indigofera lasiantha, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek, +page 6. Denison Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Swainsona phacoides, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 363. River Neale. +Stuart. + +Swainsona campylantha, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek. +Bagot Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Psoralea patens, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 8. Attack Creek. Var. +cinerea. Mount Kingston. + +Psoralea balsamica, F.M. in Proceed. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 55. Attack +Creek and McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Psoralea leucantha, F.M. l. c. iii. 54. Attack Creek. + +Clianthus Dampierii, All. Cunn. in Transact. Horticult. Soc. ii. Ser. +Vol. i. 522. Near Mount Humphries. + +Onagreae. + +Jussioea suffruticosa, Linn. Sp. Pl. 555. Attack Creek and Strangways +River. + +Rhamnaceae. + +Alphitonia excelsa, Reiss. in Endl. Gen. Plant. page 1098. Daly Waters. + +Euphorbiaceae. + +Euphorbia hypericifolia, Linn. Sp. Plant. Attack Creek. + +Flueggea leucopyris, W. Sp. Plant. McDouall Range and Roper River. + +Petalostigma quadriloculare, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 17. Near +Mount Blyth. + +Combretaceae. + +Macropteranthes Kekwickii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 151. Newcastle Waters, near +Ashburton Range. + +Terminalia circumalata, F.M. Fragm. Phytogr. Austr. ii. 91. Attack Creek. + +Terminalia bursarina, F.M. Fragm. Phytogr. Austr. ii. 149. Newcastle +Waters. + +Rhizophoreae. + +Carallia integerrima, Cand. Prodr. iii. 33. Roper River. Waterhouse. + +Cucurbitaceae. + +Cucumis jucunda, F.M. in Transact. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 45. Central +Australia. + +Melastomaceae. + +Osbeckia Australiana, Naudin in Annal. des Scien. Naturell. Ser. iii. +xiv. 59. Arnhem's Land. + +Melastoma Novae Hollandiae, Nand. l. c. xiii. 290. Adelaide River. + +Myrtaceae. + +Carega arborea, Roxb. Coromand. iii. t. 218. Billiatt Springs. +Waterhouse. + +Melaleuca leucadendron. L. Mant. 105. Attack Creek. Roper River. + +Melaleuca dissitiflora, F.M. Fragm. iii. 153. Between the Bonney River +and Mount Morphett. + +Eucalyptus setosa, Schauer in Walp. Report, ii. 926. Sandy Scrub near the +River Bonney. + +Calycothrix microphylla, All. Cunn. in Botanical Magazine 3323. Sources +of the River Roper. + +Boeckea polystemonea, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 124. Brinkley Bluff, +McDonnell Range. + +Umbelliferae. + +Didiscus glaucifolius, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 395. Var. +cyanopetalus. Finke River. J.M. Stuart. The colour of the petals varies +likewise blue and white in Didiscus coeruleus and in one species of +Dimetopia. + +Rubiaceae. + +Canthium oleifolium, Hook. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 397. Var. latifolium. +Central Australia, in Mulga Scrub. J.M. Stuart. + +Compositae. + +Calotis Waterhousii. F.M. Purdie Ponds. Waterhouse. + +Eurybia Ferresii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 18. t. xviii. Brinkley +Bluff. J.M. Stuart. + +Pluchea ligulata, F.M. Enumeration of Plants of Babbage's Expedition page +12. Strangways River. Waterhouse. + +Monenteles globifer, Cand. Prodr. v. 455. McDonnell Range, Stuart. Attack +Creek, Waterhouse. + +Helichrysum Davenportii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 32. (Sect. +Acroclinium.) On the River Neale. + +Helichrysum Cassianum, Gaudichaud Voyage Freycenet. page 466, t. 87. +(Sect. Pteropogon.) River Finke. J.M. Stuart. The capitula are rather +smaller than those figured by Gaudichaud; but in Mr. Oldfield's +collection from the Murchison River we observe analogous specimens, with +intermediate gradations. The involucre-scales are sometimes delicately +rose-coloured. + +Senecio Gregorii, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek, page +7. Finke River. J.M. Stuart. + +Goodeniaceae. + +Goodenia grandiflora, Sims, Botanical Magazine 890. Mount Freeling. +Stuart. + +Goodenia hirsuta, F.M. Fragm. iii. 35. Central Australia. + +Goodenia heterochila, F.M. Fragm. iii. 142. Newcastle Water. + +Goodenia Vilmoriniae, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 19. Between the River +Bonney and Mount Morphett. Stuart. + +Goodenia Ramelii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 20. Attack Creek. Stuart. + +Vellega connata, F.M. Transactions of the Phil. Soc. i. 18. Between the +River Bonney and Mount Morphett. Stuart. + +Scaevola microcarpa, Cavan. Icon. vi. 6, t. 509. Towards Central +Australia. + +Lobeliaceae. + +Isotoma petroea, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 420. James Range and Hugh +River. + +Asclepiadeae. + +Leichardtia Australis, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Australia. ii. Append. +page 81. Daly Water. + +Apocyneae. + +Carissa lanceolata, R. Br. Prodr. 468. Strangways River. + +Acanthaceae. + +Dipterancanthus Australasicus, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from +Cooper Creek, page 8. Near Anna Reservoir. + +Rostellularia procumbens, Nees in Wall. Plant. Asiat. rarior. iii. 101. +Purdie Ponds. + +Solaneae. + +Solanum pulchellum, F.M. Transact. Phil. Soc. Vict. i. 18. Purdie Ponds. + +Soluanum chenopodinum, F.M. Fragm. ii. 165. On Stuart Creek, and between +Mount Blyth and Mount Fisher. Stuart. + +Scrophularineae. + +Buchnera linearis, R. Br. Prodr. 437. King's Ponds. + +Vandellia plantaginea, F.M. in Trans. Vict. Inst. iii. 62. Arnhem's Land. + +Morgania floribunda, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. Var. glandulosa. +Central Australia. + +Rhamphicarpa adenophora, F.M. Near Attack Creek. + +Bignoniaceae. + +Spathodea heterophylla, R. Br. Prodr. 470. King's Chain of Ponds. + +Tecoma Australis, R. Br. Prodr. 471. Var. angustifolia. McDonnell Range, +and distributed over a wide range of latitude in the interior, according +to Mr. Stuart. Tecoma Oxleyi, Tecoma floribunda, and Tecoma diversifolia +are mere varieties of Tecoma Australis. + +Asperifoliae. + +Halgania solanacea, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857. page 21. Between +Bonney River and Mount Morphett. + +Halgania strigosa, Schlecht. Linnaea, xx. 640. Brinkley Bluff. + +Trichodesma Zeilanicum, R. Br. Prodr. 496. Newcastle Water. + +Labiatae. + +Prostanthera striatiflora, F.M. in Linn. 1852, page 376. Mount Morphett. + +Convolvulaceae. + +Evolvulus linifolius, Linn. Sp. Pl. 392. Brinkley Bluff. + +Ipomoea reptans, Poir. Encycl. Suppl. iii. 460. A white-flowering +variety. Purdie Ponds. + +Ipomoea pannosa, R. Br. Prodr. 487. Newcastle Water, Attack Creek, and +Strangways River. + +Jasminiae. + +Jasminum calcarium, F.M. Fragm. i. 212. Common to most creeks of the +interior. Stuart. The lobes of the calyx are narrower than in the +specimens from the Murchison River; the lobes of the corolla likewise +narrower, and occasionally augmented to nine. The leaflets sometimes +ovate. Transient forms are sent from Champion Bay by Mr. Walcott. + +Myoporinae. + +Avicennia officinalis, L. Sp. Pl. page 110. Var. angustifolia. Daly +Water. + +Eremophila Goodwinii, F.M. Report on Babb. Plants, page 17. Mount +Freeling, Attack Creek, and Mount Samuel. Stuart. Var. angustifolia; +leaves linear; calyx and pedicel glabrous; corolla outside glabrous or +scantily hairy. Marchant Springs. + +Eremophila Macdonellii, F.M. Report on Babb. Plants, page 18. Var. +glabra. Valley of the Elizabeth River. + +Eremophila Latrobei, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858. +Arnhem's Land, and near Anna Reservoir. J.M. Stuart. + +Eremophila Brownii, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858. +McDonnell Range. Stuart. + +Eremophila Willsii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 21, t. xx. River Finke. +Stuart. + +Eremophila Sturtii, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Austr. App. page 85. Daly +Water. + +Eremophila longifolia, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858. +Strangways Range, Stuart; Billiatt Springs, Waterhouse. + +Eremophila maculata, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858. +Sandy scrub country from the south through Central Australia to Attack +Creek. Waterhouse. + +Verbenaceae. + +Clerodendron cardiophyllum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 144. Mulga Scrub, Stuart; +Daly Water, Waterhouse. + +Newcastlia spodiotricha, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 21. Between the +Victoria River and the Gulf of Carpenteria, from 17 to 19 degrees South +latitude. + +Lentibulariae. + +Utricularia fulva, F.M. in Trans. Phil. Inst. iii. 63 Strangways River. + +Laurineae. + +Gyrocarpus sphenopterus, R. Br. Prodr. page 405. Short Range. + +Thymeleae. + +Pimelea sanguinea. F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 84. Purdie Ponds. + +Proteaceae. + +Grevillea mimosoides, R. Br. Prodr. page 380. Roper River. + +Grevillea agrifolia, All. Cunn. in R. Br. Suppl. page 24. McDonnell +Range, Short Range. Var. lancifolia. Central Australia. + +Grevillea Sturtii, R. Br. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. page 24. +Central Mount Stuart. Var. pinnatisecta; segments usually five. Scrub +near Forster Range. J.M. Stuart. + +Grevillea lineata, R. Br. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. page 24. Scrub +near Forster Range. + +Grevillea chrysodendron, R. Br. 379. Billiatt Springs. Waterhouse. + +Grevillea refracta, R. Br. Prodr. page 380. Newcastle Water, Billiatt +Springs, and Short Range. + +Grevillea dimidiata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 146. Roper River. +Waterhouse. + +Hakea arborescens, R. Br. Prodr. page 386. Arnhem's Land. + +Hakea lorea, R. Br. Suppl. page 25. Central Australia. Bark corky. + +Amaranthaceae. + +Alternanthera denticulata, R. Br. Prodr. 417. Burke River. + +Alternanthera nana, R. Br. Prodr. 417. Burke River. + +Gomphrena humilis, R. Br. Prodr. 416. Attack Creek. The upper pair of +leaves stand either next to the flower-heads or remote from them. The +same species has been found by Dr. Muller on the Dawson River, and by Mr. +Fitzalan at Port Denison. + +Gomphrena canescens, R. Br. Prodr. 416. Attack Creek. J.M. Stuart. +(Victoria River and Sturt Creek, F. Muller; Sweer's Island, Henne; Nickol +Bay, Walcot.) Capsula usually beautifully pink, sometimes purple or +white. Peduncles occasionally more than 6 inches long; the staminodia +sometimes excel the anthers in length. + +Ptilotus corymbosus, R. Br. Prodr. 415. Var. spicatus. Attack Creek. + +Trichinium gracile, R. Br. 415. Tropical Australia. + +Trichinium nobile, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 22. Short Range. + +Trichinium brachytrichum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 157. Central Australia. J.M. +Stuart. + +Urticeae. + +Ficus Stuartii, F.M. McDonnell Range; Brinkley Bluff. Several other +undescribed species of fig-trees occur in the collection, but cannot be +satisfactorily characterised from the material extant. + +Cycadeae. + +A cycadeous plant, seemingly distinct from the seven Australian species, +occurs on McDonnell Range, and is mentioned as a palm in the Journal of +the explorers. Only leaves being now submitted for examination, it +remains for future researches to throw light on this plant. + +Amaryllideae. + +Calostemma luteum, Sims, in Botanical Magazine 2101. Mount Margaret. +Stuart. The edge of the corona is sometimes rather undulated than +toothed. + +Crinum angustifolium, R. Br. 297. From latitude 22 to 32 degrees South. +J.M. Stuart. + +Orchideae. + +Cymbidium canaliculatum, R. Br. Prodr. 331. Strangways River. + +Commelyneae. + +Commelyna ensifolia, R. Br. Prodr. 269. McDonnell Range, and near Mount +Freeling. J.M. Stuart. + +Commelyna agrostophylla, F.M. Arnhem's Land. + +Liliaceae. + +Bulbine semibarbata, Haw. Revis. 33. Thring River. Stuart. + +Gramineae. + +Eriachne obtusa, R. Br. Prodr. 184. Short Range. + +Ectrosia leporina, R. Br. Prodr. 186. Purdie Ponds. + +Perotis rara, R. Br. Prodr. 172. Purdie Ponds, Waterhouse; Short Range, +Stuart. + +Andropogon bombycinus, R. Br. Prodr. 202. Central Australia, McDonnell +Range. + +Chloris ventricosa, R. Br. Prodr. 186. Arnhem's Land. + +Lappago racemosa, W. Sp. l. 484. Attack Creek. + +Panicum decompositum, R. Br. Prodr. 191. Stevenson River. + +Oryza sativa, L. Sp. Pl. Newcastle Water. J.M. Stuart. + +Pappophorum commune, F.M. Enumeration of Greg. Plants from Cooper Creek, +page 10. Central Australia. + +Cyperaceae. + +Hypaelyptum microcephalum, R. Br. Prodr. 221. Attack Creek. + +Filices. + +Marsilia quadrifolia, L. Sp. Pl. Var. hirsuta. Nardoo. Through Central +and North Australia, on localities subject to inundation. + +Lygodium semibipinnatum, R. Br. Prodr. 162. Roper River. + +Blechnum Orientale, L. Sp. Pl. 1535. River Adelaide. This fern was not +previously recorded as existing in Australia. + +Cheilanthes tenuifolia, Swartz Filic. 129. River Roper, Mount Freeling. + + +INDEX. + +A'Beckett's Pool. + +Accident: +to instruments. +to plans. +to Mr. Stuart. +to Kekwick. + +Adelaide River: +Valley of the. + +Alligator's skull found. + +Anderson Creek. + +Andamoka. + +Ann Creek. + +Anna: +Creek. +Mount. +Reservoir. + +Ant-hills. + +Ants. + +Arden, Mount. + +Arthur, Mount. + +Ascent of: +Brinkley Bluff. +Mount Denison. +Mount Strzelecki. +Mount Primrose. +Mount Stuart. + +Ashburton Range. + +Attack Creek. + +Attraction, Mount. + +Auld's Chain of Ponds. + +Auriferous appearances. + +Babbage, Mr. + +Bagot Range. + +Baker Creek. + +Bamboo. + +Barker's party, Mr. + +Barker Creek. + +Barkley Mount. + +Barrow: +Creek. +Springs. + +Bectimah Gaip. + +Beddome, Mount. + +Beda. + +Ben: +Mount. +Illness of. +Faithfulness of. + +Bennett Springs. + +Beresford Springs. + +Billiatt Springs. + +Birds. + +Bishop Creek. + +Blue-Grass Swamp. + +Blyth: +The. +Mount. + +Bonney Creek. + +Bottle: +Hill. +Mr. Stuart leaves one. + +Brinkley Bluff. + +British Flag planted. + +Brodie, Mr. + +Browne, Mount. + +Burial in trees. + +Burke Creek. + +Cabbage Palms. + +Carruthers Creek. + +Centre of Australia. + +Central Mount Stuart. + +Chambers: +Bay. +Creek. +Pillar. +River. + +Charles: +Mount. +Creek. + +Cockatoos. + +Coffee, A substitute for. + +Coglin, The. + +Comet, A. + +Cooper Creek. + +Copper, Indications of. + +Cork-tree. + +Coulthard. + +Coward Springs. + +Crawford Range. + +Cucumber: +a cure for scurvy. +boiled. + +Daly: +Water. +Range. + +Daniel, Mount. + +Davenport: +Creek. +Range. + +Deception, Mount. + +Decoy Hill. + +Delusion, Mount. + +Denison, Mount. + +Dingo, The. + +Douglas, The. + +Dutton, Mount. + +Eclipse of sun. + +Elizabeth: +The. +Springs. + +Ellen Creek. + +Emerald Springs. + +Esther, Mount. + +Expedition, Victorian. + +Eyre Lake. + +Fan-palm. + +Fanny: +The. +Springs. + +Ferguson's, Mr.: +Station. +Creek. + +Fern, A New. + +Figg, Mount. + +Finke: +River. +Mount. + +Finniss Springs. + +Fish: +shooting. + +Fisher Creek. + +Flowers, New. + +Forster Range. + +Fowler Bay. + +Francis Ponds. + +Freeling: +Mount. +Springs. + +Freemasonry among the natives. + +Frew: +The. +Water-hole. + +Frost. + +Gairdner Lake. + +George Creek. + +Gibson's Station, Mr. + +Gilbert Creek. + +Gleeson Creek. + +Glen's Station, Mr. + +Goodiar Creek. + +Goolong Springs. + +Goose, A peculiar. + +Goyder, Mount. + +Grape, Wild. + +Gregory: +Mr. +Creek. + +Gwynne, Mount. + +Hall, Mount. + +Hamilton: +Mount. +Springs. + +Hanson: +Creek. +Bluff. +Range. + +Harvey, Mount. + +Harris, Mount. + +Hawker: +Creek. +Mount. +Springs. + +Hay, Mount. + +Hayward Creek. + +Head's Range. + +Helpman: +Mount. +Lieutenant. + +Hergott Springs. + +Hope, The Spring of. + +Hostile natives. + +Hot wind. + +Howell Ponds. + +Hugh: +Mount. +The. + +Humphries, Mount. + +Hunter Creek. + +James Range. + +Jarvis' Station. + +Ice. + +Illness of: +Mr. Stuart. +Kekwick. +Waterhouse. + +Incantation scene. + +Indiarubber-tree. + +Insubordination. + +Inundation, An. + +John Range. + +Iron tomahawk. + +Kangaroo mice. + +Katherine, The. + +Kekwick: +Good conduct of. +Accident to. +Illness of. +Ponds. +Springs. +Large Group of Springs. + +King's Chain of Ponds. + +Kingston, Mount. + +Lawson Creek. + +Leichardt, Mount. + +Levi's: +Boundary. +Station. + +Levi, Mount. + +Lily: +A new. +Marsh. + +Lindsay Creek. + +Louden Spa. + +Loveday Creek. + +Macaw. + +Malay type of natives. + +Mann, Mount. + +Marchant Springs. + +Margaret: +The. +Mount. + +Mary, The. + +Masters lost and found. + +McDouall Range. + +McEllister Springs. + +McGorrerey Ponds. + +McKinlay Creek. + +McLaren Creek. + +Miller's Water. + +Milne Springs. + +Morphett: +Creek. +Mount. + +Mudleealpa. + +Muller, Mount. + +Murchison Range. + +Mussel Camp. + +Nash Spring. + +Natives: +camping-place. +fondness for fishhooks. +Freemasons. + +Native: +villages. +stories in Adelaide about. +weapons. +wells. + +Neale: +The. +River, West. + +Newcastle Water. + +Nuts, Poisonous. + +O'Halloran, Mount. + +Opossum, Forster catches an. + +Oratunga. + +Owen Springs. + +Palm-tree, A remarkable. + +Parrots. + +Parla. + +Parry Springs. + +Pascoe Springs. + +Pasley Ponds. + +Peake: +The. +Mount. + +Pernatta. + +Phillips Creek. + +Pigeons. + +Pigfaces. + +Planting the flag. + +Poisonous plants. + +Porter Hill. + +Powell Creek. + +Polly: +Lameness of. +Madness of. +has a foal. +Springs. + +Primrose: +Mount. +Springs. + +Priscilla Creek. + +Purdie Ponds. + +Rennie, Mount. + +Reynolds Range. + +Roper River. + +Rose, A new. + +Ross, The. + +Samuel, Mount. + +Santo, Mount. + +Scurvy. + +Sea, First view of the. + +Separation Camp. + +Shells. + +Shillinglaw, Mount. + +Short Range. + +Smith, the deserter. + +Stevenson: +The. +Mount. + +Stirling, The. + +Stow, Mount. + +Strangways: +Mount. +Range. +River. +Springs. + +Streaky Bay. + +Strzelecki, Mount. + +Stuart, Central Mount. + +Sturt: +Captain. +Mount. +Plains. +Range. + +Sullivan: +lost for three days. +Creek. + +Taylor, The. + +Tennant Creek. + +Thring Creek. + +Tide Creek, Adelaide River. + +Tomahawk: +Iron. +Stone. + +Tomkinson Creek. + +Torrens Lake. + +Traces of: +a native battle. +natives. + +Tree: +New. +Palm. +India-rubber. +Cork. +Orange. + +Trees marked. + +Turkeys. + +Turtle, A live. + +Vegetable, Useful. + +Victoria Expedition. + +Wallaby. + +Warburton, Major. + +Warwick Range. + +Waterbags, Failure of. + +Waterfall, A beautiful. + +Waterfowl. + +Waterhouse: +Illness of. +Range. +River. + +Waterlily, A new. + +Watson Creek. + +Watts, Mount. + +Wealaroo. + +Whittington Range. + +Wicksteed Creek. + +William: +Creek. +Springs. + +Wind, A hot. + +Wingilpin. + +Woodcock, Mount. + +Woodforde's: +encounter with natives. +Creek. + +Yarraout. + +Yarra Wirta. + +Yolticowrie. + +Younghusband, Mount. + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, The +Journals of John McDouall Stuart, by John McDouall Stuart + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN 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