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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, The Journals of
+John McDouall Stuart, by John McDouall Stuart
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Explorations in Australia, The Journals of John McDouall Stuart
+       When He Fixed The Centre Of The Continent And Successfully Crossed
+       It From Sea To Sea
+       
+
+Author: John McDouall Stuart
+
+Release Date: August 30, 2004 [EBook #8911]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA, ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat
+
+
+
+
+
+EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
+
+
+THE JOURNALS
+
+OF
+
+JOHN McDOUALL STUART
+
+DURING THE YEARS
+
+1858, 1859, 1860, 1861, & 1862,
+
+WHEN HE FIXED THE CENTRE OF THE CONTINENT AND
+SUCCESSFULLY CROSSED IT FROM SEA TO SEA.
+
+
+EDITED FROM MR. STUART'S MANUSCRIPT
+BY WILLIAM HARDMAN, M.A., F.R.G.S., &c.
+
+With Maps, a Photographic Portrait of Mr. Stuart, and twelve Engravings
+drawn on wood by George French Angas, from Sketches taken during
+the different expeditions.
+
+(SANS CHANGER.
+S.O. AND CO.)
+
+SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+1865.
+
+
+ADVERTISEMENT
+
+TO THE
+
+SECOND EDITION.
+
+Since the first edition of this work was published Mr. Stuart has arrived
+in England, and at a recent meeting of the Geographical Society he
+announced that, taking advantage of his privilege as a discoverer, he had
+christened the rich tract of country which he has opened up to the South
+Australians Alexandra Land.
+
+December 1st, 1864.
+
+
+PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.
+
+The explorations of Mr. John McDouall Stuart may truly be said, without
+disparaging his brother explorers, to be amongst the most important in
+the history of Australian discovery. In 1844 he gained his first
+experiences under the guidance of that distinguished explorer, Captain
+Sturt, whose expedition he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman.
+Leaving Lake Torrens on the left, Captain Sturt and his party passed up
+the Murray and the Darling, until finding that the latter would carry him
+too far from the northern course, which was the one he had marked out for
+himself, he turned up a small tributary known to the natives as the
+Williorara. The water of this stream failing him, he pushed on over a
+barren tract, until he suddenly came upon a fruitful and well-watered
+spot, which he named the Rocky Glen. In this picturesque glen they were
+detained for six months, during which time no rain fell. The heat of the
+sun was so intense that every screw in their boxes was drawn, and all
+horn handles and combs split into fine laminae. The lead dropped from
+their pencils, their finger-nails became as brittle as glass, and their
+hair, and the wool on their sheep, ceased to grow. Scurvy attacked them
+all, and Mr. Poole, the second in command, died. In order to avoid the
+scorching rays of the sun, they had excavated an underground chamber, to
+which they retired during the heat of the day.
+
+When the long-expected rain fell, they pushed on for fifty miles to
+another suitable halting-place, which was called Park Depot. From this
+depot Captain Sturt made two attempts to reach the Centre of the
+continent. He started, accompanied by four of his party, advancing over a
+country which resembled an ocean whose mighty billows, fifty or sixty
+feet high, had become suddenly hardened into long parallel ridges of
+solid sand. The abrupt termination of this was succeeded at two hundred
+miles by what is now so well known as Sturt's Stony Desert, to which
+frequent allusion is made by Mr. Stuart in his journals. After thirty
+miles more, this stony desert ceased with equal abruptness, and was
+followed by a vast plain of dried mud, which Captain Sturt describes as
+"a boundless ploughed field, on which floods had settled and subsided."
+After advancing two hundred miles beyond the Stony Desert, and to within
+one hundred and fifty miles of the Centre of the continent, they were
+compelled to return to Park Depot, where they arrived in a most exhausted
+condition.
+
+A short rest at the Depot was followed by another expedition, Captain
+Sturt being on this occasion accompanied by Mr. Stuart and two men. The
+seventh day of their journey brought them to the banks of a fine creek,
+now so well known as Cooper Creek in connection with the fate of those
+unfortunate explorers, Burke and Wills. At two hundred miles from Cooper
+Creek Captain Sturt and his party were again met by the Stony Desert, but
+slightly varied in its aspect. Before abandoning his attempt to proceed,
+the leader of the expedition laid the matter before his companions, and
+he writes as follows: "I should be doing an injustice to Mr. Stuart and
+my men, if I did not here mention that I told them the position we were
+placed in, and the chance on which our safety would depend if we went on.
+They might well have been excused if they expressed an opinion contrary
+to such a course; but the only reply they made me was to assure me that
+they were ready and willing to follow me to the last."
+
+With much reluctance, however, Captain Sturt determined to return to
+Cooper Creek without delay. They travelled night and day without
+interruption, and on the morning of their arrival at the creek, one of
+those terrible hot north winds, so much dreaded by the colonists, began
+to blow with unusual violence. Lucky was it for them that it had not
+overtaken them in the Desert, for they could scarcely have survived it.
+The heat was awful; a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, burst,
+though sheltered in the fork of a large tree, and their skin was
+blistered by a torrent of fine sand, which was driven along by the fury
+of the hurricane. They still had fearful difficulties to encounter, but
+after an absence of nineteen months they returned safely to Adelaide.
+
+The discouraging account of the interior which was brought by Captain
+Sturt did not prevent other explorers from making further attempts; but
+the terrible fate of Kennedy and his party on York Peninsula, and the
+utter disappearance of Leichardt's expedition, both in the same year
+(1848), had a very decided influence in checking the progress of
+Australian exploration. Seven years later, in 1855, Mr. Gregory landed on
+the north-west coast for the purpose of exploring the Victoria River, and
+after penetrating as far south as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
+longitude 131 degrees 44 minutes, he was compelled to proceed to the head
+of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and thence to Sydney along the route taken by
+Dr. Leichardt in 1844. Shortly after his return Mr. Gregory was
+despatched by the Government of New South Wales in 1857, to find, if
+possible, some trace of the lost expedition of the lamented Leichardt;
+his efforts, however, did nothing to clear up the mystery that enshrouds
+the fate of that celebrated explorer.* (* It is possible that Mr.
+McKinlay has been hasty in the opinion he formed from the graves and
+remains of white men shown to him by Keri Keri, and the story related of
+their massacre. May they not belong to Leichardt's party?)
+
+The colonists of South Australia have always been distinguished for
+promoting by private aid and public grant the cause of exploration. They
+usually kept somebody in the field, whose discoveries were intended to
+throw light on the caprices of Lake Torrens, at one time a vast inland
+sea, at another a dry desert of stones and baked mud. Hack, Warburton,
+Freeling, Babbage, and other well-known names, are associated with this
+particular district, and, in 1858, Stuart started to the north-west of
+the same country, accompanied by one white man (Forster) and a native. In
+this, the first expedition which he had the honour to command, he was
+aided solely by his friend Mr. William Finke, but in his later journeys
+Mr. James Chambers also bore a share of the expense.* (* It is greatly to
+be regretted that both these gentlemen are since dead. Mr. Chambers did
+not survive to witness the success of his friend's later expeditions, and
+the news of Mr. Finke's death reached us while these sheets were going
+through the press.) This journey was commenced in May, 1858, from Mount
+Eyre in the north to Denial and Streaky Bays on the west coast of the
+Port Lincoln country. On this journey Mr. Stuart accomplished one of the
+most arduous feats in all his travels, having, with one man only (the
+black having basely deserted them), pushed through a long tract of dense
+scrub and sand with unusual rapidity, thus saving his own life and that
+of his companion. During this part of the journey they were without food
+or water, and his companion was thoroughly dispirited and despairing of
+success. This expedition occupied him till September, 1858, and was
+undertaken with the object of examining the country for runs. On his
+return the South Australian Government presented him with a large grant
+of land in the district which he had explored.
+
+Mr. Stuart now turned his attention to crossing the interior, and, with
+the assistance of his friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke, he was enabled
+to make two preparatory expeditions in the vicinity of Lake Torrens--from
+April 2nd to July 3rd, 1859, and from November 4th, 1859, to January
+21st, 1860. The fourth expedition started from Chambers Creek (discovered
+by Mr. Stuart in 1858, and since treated as his head-quarters for
+exploring purposes), on March 2nd, 1860, and consisted of Mr. Stuart and
+two men, with thirteen horses. Proceeding steadily northwards, until the
+country which his previous explorations had rendered familiar was left
+far behind, on April 23rd the great explorer calmly records in his
+Journal the following important announcement: "To-day I find from my
+observations of the sun that I am now camped in the CENTRE OF AUSTRALIA."
+One of the greatest problems of Australian discovery was solved! The
+Centre of the continent was reached, and, instead of being an
+inhospitable desert or an inland sea, it was a splendid grass country
+through which ran numerous watercourses.
+
+Leaving the Centre, a north-westerly course was followed, but, after
+various repulses, a north-easterly course eventually carried the party as
+far as latitude 18 degrees 47 minutes south, longitude 134 degrees, when
+they were driven back by the hostility of the natives. As has already
+been stated, Mr. Gregory in 1855, starting from the north-west coast, had
+penetrated to the south as low as latitude 20 degrees 16 minutes,
+longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes. Mr. Stuart had now reached a position
+about half-way between Gregory's lowest southward point and the head of
+the Gulf of Carpentaria. Without actually reaching the country explored
+by Gregory, he had overlapped his brother explorer's position by one
+degree and a half, or more than one hundred miles, and was about two
+hundred and fifty miles in actual distance from the nearest part of the
+shores of the Gulf. It is important to remark that the attack of the
+savages which forced Mr. Stuart to return occurred on June 26th, 1860, so
+that he had virtually crossed the continent two months before Messrs.
+Burke and Wills had left Melbourne.* (* They did not leave Cooper Creek
+until December 14th, rather more than a fortnight before Mr. Stuart
+started on his fifth expedition.)
+
+On New Year's day 1861, Mr. Stuart again left Adelaide, aided this time
+by a grant from the Colonial Government of 2500 pounds, in addition to
+the assistance of his well-tried friends Messrs. Chambers and Finke. He
+made his former position with ease, and advanced about one hundred miles
+beyond it, to latitude 17 degrees, longitude 133 degrees; but an
+impenetrable scrub barred all further progress, and failing provisions,
+etc., compelled him, after such prolonged and strenuous efforts that his
+horses on one occasion were one hundred and six hours without water, most
+reluctantly to return. The expedition arrived safely in the settled
+districts in September, and the determined explorer, after a delay of
+less than a month, was again despatched by the South Australian
+Government along what had now become to him a familiar road. This time
+success crowned his efforts; a passage was found northwards through the
+opposing scrub, and leaving the Gulf of Carpentaria far to the right, the
+Indian Ocean itself was reached. Other explorers had merely seen the rise
+and fall of the tide in rivers, boggy ground and swamps intervening and
+cutting off all chance of ever seeing the sea. But Stuart actually stood
+on its shore and washed his hands in its waters! What a pleasure it must
+have been to the leader when, knowing well from his reckoning that the
+sea must be close at hand, but keeping it a secret from all except Thring
+and Auld, he witnessed the joyful surprise of the rest of the party!
+
+The expedition reached Adelaide safely, although for a long time the
+leader's life was despaired of, the constant hardships of so many
+journeys with scarcely any intermission having brought on a terrible
+attack of scurvy. The South Australian Government in 1859 liberally
+rewarded Mr. Stuart and his party for their successful enterprise.* (*
+Mr. Stuart's qualities as a practised Bushman are unrivalled, and he has
+always succeeded in bringing his party back without loss of life.) On the
+10th of March a resolution was passed to the effect that a sum of 3500
+pounds should be paid as a reward to John McDouall Stuart, Esquire, and
+the members of his party, in the following proportions: Mr. Stuart 2000
+pounds; Mr. Keckwick 500 pounds; Messrs. Thring and Auld 200 pounds each;
+and Messrs. King, Billiatt, Frew, Nash, McGorrerey, and Waterhouse, 100
+pounds each. Perhaps this is the most fitting place to express Mr.
+Stuart's appreciation of the honour done him by the Royal Geographical
+Society of London, in awarding him their gold medal and presenting him
+with a gold watch. He wishes particularly to express his hearty thanks to
+Sir Roderick Murchison, and the other distinguished members of the
+society, for the lively interest they have evinced in his welfare.
+
+Mr. Stuart's experiences have led him to form a very decided opinion as
+to the cause of the well-known hot winds of Australia, so long the
+subject of scientific speculation. North and north-west of Flinders Range
+are large plains covered with stones, extending as far as latitude 25
+degrees. To the north of that, although the sun was intensely hot, there
+were no hot winds; in fact from that parallel of latitude to the Indian
+Ocean, either going or returning, they were not met with. "On reaching
+latitude 27 degrees on my return," writes Mr. Stuart, "I found the hot
+winds prevailing again as on my outward journey. I saw no sandy desert to
+which these hot winds have been attributed, but, on lifting some of the
+stones that were lying on the surface,* I found them so hot that I was
+obliged to drop them immediately. (* On the surface, as I suppose, of the
+large plains North of Flinders Range. ED.) It is my opinion that when a
+north wind blows across those stone-covered plains, it collects the heat
+from them, and the air, becoming rarified, is driven on southwards with
+increased vehemence. To the north of latitude 25 degrees, although
+exposure to the sun in the middle of the day was very oppressive, yet the
+moment we got under the shade of a tree we felt quite alive again; there
+was none of that languid feeling which is experienced in the south during
+a hot wind, as for example that which blew on the morning after reaching
+the Hamilton,* in latitude 26 degrees 40 minutes. (* Journal 1861 to
+1862.) That was one of the hottest winds I ever experienced. I had the
+horses brought up at 7 o'clock, intending to proceed, but seeing there
+was a very hot wind coming on, I had them turned out again. It was well I
+did so, for before 10 o'clock all the horses were in small groups under
+the trees, and the men lying under the shade of blankets unable to do
+anything, so overpowering was the heat." Unfortunately, Mr. Stuart had no
+thermometer.
+
+Mr. Stuart is anxious to direct attention to the establishment of a
+Telegraph line along his route. On this subject he writes as follows:--
+
+"On my arrival in Adelaide from my last journey I found a great deal of
+anxiety felt as to whether a line could be carried across to the mouth of
+the Adelaide river. There would be a few difficulties in the way, but
+none which could not be overcome and made to repay the cost of such an
+undertaking. The first would be in crossing from Mr. Glen's station to
+Chambers Creek, in finding timber sufficiently long for poles, supposing
+that no more favourable line than I travelled over could be adopted, but
+I have good reason for supposing that there is plenty of suitable timber
+in the range and creek, not more than ten miles off my track: the
+distance between the two places is one hundred miles. From Chambers Creek
+through the spring country to the Gap in Hanson Range the cartage would
+be a little farther, in consequence of the timber being scarce in some
+places. There are many creeks in which it would be found, but I had not
+time to examine them in detail. Another difficulty would be in crossing
+the McDonnell Range, which is rough and ragged, but there is a great
+quantity of timber in the Hugh; the distance to this in a straight line
+is not more than seven miles; from thence to the Roper River there are a
+few places where the cartage might be from ten to twenty miles, that is
+in crossing the plains where only stunted gum-trees grow, but tall timber
+can be obtained from the rising ground around them. From latitude 16
+degrees 30 minutes south to the north coast, there would be no difficulty
+whatever, as there is an abundance of timber everywhere. I am promised
+information, through the kindness of Mr. Todd, of the Telegraph
+department, as to the average cost of establishing the lines through the
+outer districts of this colony, and it is my intention to make a
+calculation of the cost of a line on my route, by which the comparative
+merits and expense will be tested, and I am of opinion I shall be able to
+show most favourable results. I should have been glad for this
+information to have accompanied my works, but I find I cannot postpone
+them longer for that purpose, as parties have already taken advantage of
+the delay occasioned by my illness at the time of, and since, my arrival
+home to collect what scraps of information they could obtain, with the
+intention of publishing them as my travels. I leave the reward of such
+conduct to a discriminating public; I shall not fail to carry out my
+intention with regard to a Telegraph line; and should I have no
+opportunity of submitting it to the public, I shall take care to advance
+the matter in such channels as may be most likely to lead to a successful
+issue. I beg reference to my map accompanying this work, which will at
+once show the favourable geographical situation of the Adelaide River for
+a settlement, and the short and safe route it opens up for communication
+and trading with India: indeed when I look upon the present system of
+shipping to that important empire, I cannot over-estimate the advantages
+that such an extended intercourse would create."
+
+Mr. Stuart is also very anxious for the formation of a new colony on the
+scene of his discoveries on the River Adelaide, and would fain have been
+one of the first pioneers of such an enterprise, but his health has been
+so much shattered by his last journey that he can only now hope to see
+younger men follow in the path which he had made his own. He writes as
+follows:--
+
+"Judging from the experience I have had in travelling through the
+Continent of Australia for the last twenty-two years, and also from the
+description that other explorers have given of the different portions
+they have examined in their journeys, I have no hesitation in saying,
+that the country that I have discovered on and around the banks of the
+Adelaide River is more favourable than any other part of the continent
+for the formation of a new colony. The soil is generally of the richest
+nature ever formed for the benefit of mankind: black and alluvial, and
+capable of producing anything that could be desired, and watered by one
+of the finest rivers in Australia. This river was found by Lieutenant
+Helpman to be about four to seven fathoms deep at the mouth, and at one
+hundred and twenty miles up (the furthest point he reached) it was found
+to be about seven fathoms deep and nearly one hundred yards broad, with a
+clear passage all the way up. I struck it about this point, and followed
+it down, encamping fifteen miles from its mouth, and found the water
+perfectly fresh, and the river broader and apparently very deep; the
+country around most excellent, abundantly supplied with fresh water,
+running in many flowing streams into the Adelaide River, the grass in
+many places growing six feet high, and the herbage very close--a thing
+seldom seen in a new country. The timber is chiefly composed of
+stringy-bark, gum, myall, casurina, pine, and many other descriptions of
+large timber, all of which will be most useful to new colonists. There is
+also a plentiful supply of stone in the low rises suitable for building
+purposes, and any quantity of bamboo can be obtained from the river from
+two to fifty feet long. I measured one fifteen inches in circumference,
+and saw many larger. The river abounds in fish and waterfowl of all
+descriptions. On my arrival from the coast I kept more to the eastward of
+my north course, with the intention of seeing further into the country. I
+crossed the sources of the running streams before alluded to, and had
+great difficulty in getting more to the west. They take their rise from
+large bodies of springs coming from extensive grassy plains, which proves
+there must be a very considerable underground drainage, as there are no
+hills of sufficient elevation to cause the supply of water in these
+streams. I feel confident that, if a new settlement is formed in this
+splendid country, in a few years it will become one of the brightest gems
+in the British Crown. To South Australia and some of the more remote
+Australian colonies the benefits to be derived from the formation of such
+a colony would be equally advantageous, creating an outlet for their
+surplus beef and mutton, which would be eagerly consumed by the races in
+the Indian Islands, and payment made by the shipment of their useful
+ponies, and the other valuable products of those islands; indeed I see
+one of the finest openings I am aware of for trading between these
+islands and a colony formed where proposed."
+
+Mr. Stuart was accompanied on his last journey by Mr. Waterhouse, a
+clever naturalist, whose report to the Commissioner of Crown Lands of
+South Australia, although too long for insertion here, is full of most
+interesting information. Unfortunately, the interests of geographical
+science were apparently lost sight of in the hurry to effect the grand
+object of the expedition, namely, to cross from sea to sea. Thermometers
+were forgotten; two mounted maps of the country from Chambers Creek to
+Newcastle Water, in a tin case, never came to hand, and the expedition
+was provided with no means of estimating even the approximate height of
+the elevated land or of the mountains in the interior. As Mr. Waterhouse
+remarks: "The thermometers were much needed, as it would have been very
+desirable to have kept a register of the temperature, and to have tested
+occasionally the degree of heat at which water boiled on the high table
+lands. The loss of the maps prevented my marking down at the time on the
+maps the physical features of the country, and the distribution of its
+fauna and flora."
+
+Mr. Waterhouse divides the country into three divisions. The first, which
+extends from Goolong Springs to a little north of the Gap in Hanson
+Range, latitude 27 degrees 18 minutes 23 seconds, may be called the
+spring and saltbush country. The second division commences north of the
+Gap in Hanson Range, and extends to the southern side of Newcastle Water,
+latitude 17 degrees 36 minutes 29 seconds. It is marked by great scarcity
+of water--in fact, there are few places where water can be relied on as
+permanent--and also by the presence of the porcupine grass (Triodia
+pungens of Gregory, and Spinifex of Stuart), which is the prevailing
+flora. The third division commences from the north end of Newcastle
+Water, latitude 17 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds, and extends to Van
+Diemen Gulf, latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds; it comprises a
+large part of Sturt Plains, with soil formed of a fine lacustrine
+deposit, the valleys of the Roper filled with a luxuriant tropical
+vegetation, and thence to the Adelaide River and the sea-coast.
+
+On visiting Hergott Springs, Mr. Waterhouse learnt that Mr. Burtt, whose
+station* is only a few miles distant, in opening these springs discovered
+some fossil bones, casts of which were forwarded to Professor Owen, who
+pronounced them to be the remains of a gigantic extinct marsupial, named
+Diprotodon Australis. (* Hergott Springs were only discovered and named
+by Stuart three years before, yet we now find a station close by them.
+The explorer is not far ahead of his fellow-colonists, as is well
+remarked by the Edinburgh Review for July, 1862: "Australian occupation
+has kept close on the heels of Australian discovery.") Bones of this
+animal have also been found in a newer tertiary formation in New South
+Wales. Mr. Waterhouse considers that a great tertiary drift extends over
+this part of the country, obscuring and concealing at no great depth
+below the surface many springs, which may hereafter be discovered as the
+country becomes better known.
+
+The Louden Spa is a hot spring arising out of a small hillock, and
+proceeds from the fissures of volcanic rock. This water is medicinal, but
+not disagreeable to the taste: the damper made with it was very light,
+and tasted like soda-bread.
+
+In his remarks on the second division Mr. Waterhouse states much that is
+valuable. He estimates the height of Mount Hay at two thousand feet,
+regarding it as the highest point of the McDonnell Range, which is the
+natural centre of this part of the continent. Mr. Waterhouse only saw
+Chambers Pillar from a distance, but he had an opportunity of examining a
+smaller hill of the same character, and found it to be composed of a soft
+loose argillaceous rock, at the top of which was a thin stratum of a hard
+siliceous rock, much broken up. "The isolated hills appear to have been
+at some remote period connected, but from the soft and loose nature of
+the lower rock meeting with the action of water, had arisen a succession
+of landslips. These have been washed away and others have followed in
+their turn; the upper rock, from being undermined, has fallen down and
+broken up, supplying the peculiar siliceous stones so widely distributed
+on parts of the surface of the country."
+
+The vegetation of this district is poor; the myall is scarce, but the
+mulga (Acacia aneura) generally plentiful. Both these shrubs are species
+of acacia, the myall being of much larger growth and longer lived than
+the mulga. Nutritious grass is seldom found except in the immediate
+vicinity of the creeks, and the scrubs are very extensive.
+
+Mr. Waterhouse collected a great number of specimens of natural history,
+but, from want of the convenience for carrying them, many of the more
+delicate objects were broken.
+
+In the Appendix will be found some remarks by Mr. John Gould, F.R.S.,
+etc., on the birds collected by Mr. Waterhouse during Mr. Stuart's
+expedition, including a description of a new and beautiful parrakeet.
+There are also descriptions of new species of Freshwater Shells from the
+same expedition, by Mr. Arthur Adams, F.L.S., and Mr. G. French Angas, to
+the skill of which latter gentleman this work is indebted for its
+admirable illustrations.
+
+Dr. Muller, the Government Botanist, Director of the Botanic Garden at
+Melbourne, in his report to both Houses of the Legislature of Victoria,
+April 15th, 1863, says, "A series of all the plants collected during Mr.
+J.M. Stuart's last expedition was presented by the Hon. H. Strangways,
+Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia, and those of the former
+expeditions of that highly distinguished explorer, by the late J.
+Chambers, Esquire, of North Adelaide." Of this collection, Dr. Muller has
+furnished a systematic enumeration, which will be found in the Appendix.
+This enumeration must not, however, be accepted as final, for Dr. Muller
+has forwarded all the specimens to England for the inspection of Mr.
+Bentham, the learned President of the Linnaean Society of London, who is
+now elaborating his great and exhaustive work on the Flora of Australia,
+the second volume of which will shortly be before the public.
+
+WILLIAM HARDMAN.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER,
+1858.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
+TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
+TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION (FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE
+CONTINENT). FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO
+SEPTEMBER, 1861.
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF
+AUSTRALIA. FROM DECEMBER, 1861, TO DECEMBER, 1862.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+(LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+PORTRAIT OF JOHN MACDOUALL STUART. Adelaide, April 1863. Professor Hall.
+Photograph.
+
+SKETCH MAP OF AUSTRALIA, SHOWING THE POSITION OF MR. STUART'S ROUTE.
+
+NORTH-WEST OF STUART'S CREEK.
+
+NORTH-WEST POINT OF LAKE TORRENS.
+
+THE HERMIT HILL AND FINNISS SPRINGS.
+
+ELIZABETH SPRINGS.
+
+SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE EYRE.
+
+CHAMBERS PILLAR.
+
+CENTRAL MOUNT STUART.
+
+ATTACK CREEK.
+
+BRINKLEY BLUFF.
+
+CHAMBERS CREEK.
+
+TABLE LAND AND VALLEY OF THE ADELAIDE.
+
+PLANTING THE FLAG ON THE SHORES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN.)
+
+
+
+EXPLORATIONS IN AUSTRALIA.
+
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST. MAY TO SEPTEMBER,
+1858.
+
+On the 14th of May, 1858, Mr. Stuart started from Oratunga (the head
+station of Mr. John Chambers), accompanied by Mr. Barker, with six
+horses, and all that was requisite (with one important exception, as will
+be seen hereafter), for an excursion to the north-west of Swinden's
+Country. They arrived at Aroona the same evening. On the following day
+(the 15th) they made Morleeanna Creek, and reached Ootaina on the 16th,
+about 7 p.m. Here they remained for a couple of days, as sufficient rain
+had not fallen to enable them to proceed. On the afternoon of the 19th
+they arrived at Mr. Sleep's, who informed them that Mr. M. Campbell had
+returned from the West, being hard pushed for water; very little rain
+having fallen to the west. The next day (20th) Mr. Stuart arrived at Mr.
+Louden's, but, in consequence of some difficulties about the horses, he
+returned to Ootaina. Various preparations, combined with want of rain,
+compelled him to delay his start until the 10th of June. Here the journal
+commences:--
+
+Thursday, 10th June, 1858. Started from Ootaina at 1 p.m. for Beda.
+Camped on the plain, about thirteen miles from Mount Eyre.
+
+Friday, 11th June, West Plain. Made Mudleealpa at 11 a.m. The horses
+would not drink the water. Proceeded for about five miles towards Beda.
+The plains are fearfully dry; they have the appearance as if no rain had
+fallen here for a long time, and I am very much afraid there will be no
+water at Beda. If such should be the case, the horses will suffer too
+much in the beginning of their journey to be without a drink to-night. I
+think it will be best to return to Mudleealpa, leave our saddles,
+rations, etc. there, and drive the horses back to water. I sent Mr.
+Forster back with them, telling him if he can find no water between this
+and Mr. Sleep's, to take them there, remain for the night, give them a
+drink in the morning, and return; we shall then be able to make a fresh
+start to-morrow. Bearings: Mount Arden, 154 degrees 30 minutes; Mount
+Eyre, 77 degrees 30 minutes; Beda Hill, 272 degrees; Mount Elder, 64
+degrees 50 minutes; Dutchman's Stern, 162 degrees 15 minutes.
+
+Saturday, 12th June, Mudleealpa. In examining the creek a little higher
+up, we found another well. By cleaning it out, the water is drinkable.
+The horses did not arrive until it was too late to start, and having
+water here now, that they can drink, we camped here another night.
+
+Sunday, 13th June, Mudleealpa. Started for Beda. Some of the horses would
+not drink the water, and others drank very little: they will be glad to
+drink far worse than this before they come back, or I am much mistaken.
+Arrived at Beda at sundown. I was right in my opinion; no fresh water to
+be found; nothing but salt, salter than the sea. I can see nothing of Mr.
+Babbage's* encampment; he must be higher up the creek. All the country we
+have come over to-day is very dry. (* It will probably be recollected
+that Mr. Babbage was sent out by the Government to make a north-west
+course through the continent, but, when at the Elizabeth, he made an
+unaccountable detour, and found himself at Port Augusta, his original
+starting-point. On my return from this journey he called on me at Mount
+Arden, when I furnished him with such information as he required, and he
+again started, and made Chambers' Creek, which I had previously found and
+named after my old friend, Mr. James Chambers, but which he called
+Stuart's Creek in acknowledgment of my information, etc. J. McD. Stuart.)
+
+Monday, 14th June, Beda. This morning we have searched all round, but can
+find no fresh water, although there are numerous places that would retain
+water if any quantity had fallen. Mr. Forster, whom I had sent up the
+creek to Mr. Babbage's, to inquire if there was any water at Pernatta,
+has returned with the information that Mr. B. was up there with all his
+horses, and that there was still a little water, but not much. Started at
+11.30 a.m. for that place; camped in the sand hills one hour after dark.
+Here we found some pig-faces* which the horses eat freely. (* These
+pig-faces belong to the Mesembryaceae, of which the common ice-plant of
+our gardens is an example.) There is a great deal of moisture in them,
+and they are a first-rate thing for thirsty horses; besides, they have a
+powerful diuretic effect. I was unable to fix Beda Hill, all my time
+being taken up in looking for water, but I hope to get its position at
+Pernatta. The country was very heavy--sand hills.
+
+Tuesday, 15th June, Sand Hills. Started at break of day for Pernatta.
+About 10 a.m. met Mr. Babbage's two men returning with some of the horses
+for rations. They informed me that the water was nearly all gone, but
+that there was plenty in the Elizabeth, nineteen miles from Pernatta. I
+intended to keep on the track, but our black insisted that Pernatta lay
+through a gap, and not round the bluff. I allowed him to have his own
+way. Our route was through a very stony saddle. When there we saw a gum
+creek, and made for it; when we arrived at the creek he told us that was
+Pernatta. We looked for water, and found a little hole, which, to our
+great disappointment, contained salt water. Could see nothing of Mr.
+Babbage's camp. I then asked our black where there was another water; he
+said, "Down the creek," which we followed. He took us to five or six
+water holes, with native names, every one dry. The last one he called
+Yolticourie. It being now within an hour of sundown, I would follow him
+no longer, but unsaddled, and told Mr. Forster to take the black and the
+horses, and to steer for the bluff; if he found no water between, to
+intersect Mr. Babbage's tracks, and follow them up and get water. I
+remained with our provisions. The black fellow evidently does not know
+the country. I am sorry that I have taken him with me. I think I shall
+send him back; he is of little use in assisting to get the horses in the
+morning.
+
+Wednesday, 16th June, Yolticourie. The horses have returned; they found
+no water last night; they were obliged to camp for the night, it being so
+dark, but they found Mr. Babbage's camp very early. The horses drank all
+the water. I was wrong in blaming the black fellow; he took us to the
+RIGHT Pernatta. It is another water that Mr. B. is encamped at. He moves
+to-day for the Elizabeth, which I also will do. He found the remains of
+poor Coulthard yesterday. We must have passed quite close to them in our
+search for water. He has sent for me to come and assist at the burial. It
+being so late in the day (12 o'clock), and the horses requiring more
+water, and he having four men besides himself, I do not see that I can be
+of any use, and it might cause me to lose another day, and the horses to
+be another night without water, which would be an injury to them, they
+not having had sufficient this morning. Mr. B. also sent to say that he
+would accompany me to the Elizabeth. I have delayed an hour for him, and
+he has not yet made his appearance; it being now 1 o'clock, and having to
+travel seventeen miles, I can wait no longer. Started for Bottle Hill;
+arrived on the south side of the hill an hour and a half before sundown,
+found some water and plenty of grass; encamped for the night. Distance
+to-day, seventeen miles. The former part of the journey was over very
+stony country; the latter part very heavy sand hills.
+
+Thursday, 17th June, Bottle Hill. Got on the top of Bottle Hill to take
+bearings, but was disappointed; could see no hill except one, which was
+either Mount Deception or Mount North-west; the bearing was 51 degrees 30
+minutes. There is a small cone of stones on the top, and a flat stone on
+the top of it, with the names of Louden and Burtt. From here I saw the
+gum trees in the Elizabeth; course to them 325 degrees 30 minutes, seven
+miles to the creek. The country from the hill here is of the very worst
+description--nothing but sand and salt bush.
+
+Friday, 18th June, The Elizabeth. We must rest our horses to-day, they
+have not yet recovered from their long thirst. I am quite disappointed
+with this creek and the surrounding country. The water is not permanent,
+it is only rain water; since we arrived yesterday it has shrunk a great
+deal. There are small plains on each side from a quarter to half a mile
+broad with salt bush; the hills are very stony with a little salt bush,
+and destitute of timber, except the few gum-trees in the creek and the
+mulga bushes in the sand hills.
+
+Saturday, 19th June, The Elizabeth. The sky was quite overcast with cloud
+during the night, and a few drops of rain fell, but of no consequence.
+Started at 9.30 a.m., on a bearing of 308 degrees for six miles; changed
+the bearing to 355 degrees for one mile and a half; next bearing 328
+degrees for four miles, to the north side of a dry swamp; next bearing 4
+degrees for ten miles and a half; next bearing 350 degrees for four miles
+to a sand hill. Camped. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles, over a very
+bad country, with large fragments of a hard flinty stone covering the
+surface. Salt bush with small sand hills. No water.
+
+Sunday, 20th June, Sand Hill. Started at 9 a.m., on a course of 25
+degrees for sixteen miles. At 1 p.m., came upon a creek, in which I
+thought there might be water; examined it and found two water holes, with
+plenty of grass upon their banks. The water is not permanent. Our course
+to-day has been across stony plains (covered on the surface with
+fragments resembling hard white quartz), with sand hills about two miles
+broad dividing them. The black did not know of this water; I am very
+doubtful of his knowing anything of the country. The stony plains are
+surrounded by high heavy sand hills, especially to the west and
+north-west; I dare not attempt to get through them without rain. They are
+much higher than the country that I am travelling through. It seems as if
+there had been no rain for twelve months, every thing is so dried and
+parched up. On further examination of the creek we have found a large
+hole of clear water, with rushes growing round it; I almost think it is
+permanent, and intend to run the risk of falling back upon it should I be
+forced to retreat and wait for rain. The creek seems to drain the large
+stony plains that we crossed; the water is three and a half feet deep,
+ten yards wide, by forty yards long.
+
+Monday, 21st June, Water Creek. Started at 9.30 a.m. on a course of 25
+degrees. At a mile passed a small table-topped hill to the west of our
+line; at three miles and a half crossed the creek; at four miles passed
+another table-topped hill connected with the low range to the east, and
+passed the first ironstone hill; at seven miles changed to 55 degrees; at
+eight miles halted at a large permanent water hole (Andamoka). I can with
+safety say that this is permanent; it is a splendid water hole, nearly as
+large as the one at the mouth of the gorge in the John. The low range to
+the east of our course, and running nearly parallel with it, is composed
+of conglomerate, quartz, and a little ironstone. Part of to-day's journey
+was over low undulating sandy and very well grassed country. There seems
+to have been a little rain here lately; the grass is springing
+beautifully. At eleven miles we came upon a salt lagoon (Wealaroo) two
+miles long by one broad. From the north end of it, on a bearing of 55
+degrees, one mile and a half will strike Andamoka. I think we have now
+left the western sand hills behind us; and now that we have permanent
+water to fall back on, I shall strike into the north-west to-morrow. The
+distance travelled to-day was fifteen miles. The country around this
+water consists of bold stony rises and sand, with salt bush and grass; no
+timber except mulga and a few myall bushes in the creek. On an
+examination of the creek, we have found salt water above and below this
+hole. In one place above there are cakes of salt one inch and a half
+thick, a convincing proof that this is supplied by springs.
+
+Tuesday, 22nd June, Andamoka. Started on a bearing of 342 degrees. At
+seven miles and a half, crossed a low stony range running east-north-east
+and west-south-west, which turned out to be table land, with sand hills
+crossing our line, bearing to a high range east of us 93 degrees 30
+minutes. About eight miles in the same direction there is the appearance
+of a long salt lake. At nine miles and a half, on a sand hill, I obtained
+the following bearings: Mount North-west, 60 degrees 30 minutes; Mount
+Deception, 95 degrees. At eleven miles and a half passed a large reedy
+swamp on our left, dry. At seventeen miles sand hills ceased. At eighteen
+miles and a half the sand hills again commenced, and we changed our
+course to north for three miles. Camped for the night at a creek of
+permanent water, very good. The last four miles of to-day's journey have
+been over very stony rises with salt bush and a little grass.
+
+Wednesday, 23rd June, Permanent Water Creek. The horses had strayed so
+far that we did not get a start until 10 a.m. Bearing to-day, 318
+degrees. At two miles crossed a tea-tree creek, in which there is water,
+coming from the stony rises, and running to the north of east. At six
+miles the sand hills again commence. To this place we have come over a
+stony plain, covered on the surface with fragments of limestone, quartz,
+and ironstone, with salt bush and grass. In a watery season it must be
+well covered with grass; the old grass is lying between the salt bushes.
+We have a view of part of the lake (Torrens) bearing north-east about
+fifteen or twenty miles from us; to the west again the stony rises,
+apparently more open. At ten miles, in the sand hills, we have again a
+view of Flinders range. The bearings are: Mount North-west, 78 degrees 35
+minutes; Mount Deception, 107 degrees. At fourteen and a half miles we
+found a clay-pan of water, with beautiful green feed for the horses. As
+we don't know when we shall find more water, and as Forster has a damper
+to bake, I decide to camp for the rest of the day. Our route has lain
+over heavy sand hills for the last eight miles.
+
+Thursday, 24th June, Sand Hills. At 8.30 we left on a course of 340
+degrees, commencing with about two miles of rather heavy sand hills. At
+eight miles these sand hills diminished, and the valleys between them
+became much wider--both sand hills and valleys being well covered with
+grass and salt bush, with courses of lime and ironstone cropping out and
+running east and west. At twelve miles changed our course to 79 degrees,
+to examine a gum creek (Yarraout), which we ran down for water, but did
+not obtain it before four miles, when we found a small hole of rain
+water. This creek seems to be a hunting-ground of the natives, as we saw
+a great many summer worleys on its banks. They had evidently been here
+to-day, for, a little above where we first struck the creek, we saw some
+smoke, but on following it up, we found they had gone; most likely they
+had seen us and run away. The latter part of our journey to-day was over
+a stony plain, bounded on the west by the stony table land with the sand
+hills on the top. All this country seems to have been under water, and is
+most likely the bed of Lake Torrens, or Captain Sturt's inland sea. In
+travelling over the plains, one is reminded of going over a rough,
+gravelly beach; the stones are all rounded and smooth. Distance to-day,
+thirty miles.
+
+Friday, 25th June, Yarraout Gum Creek. Started at 9.40 from the point
+where we first struck the creek last night, bearing 20 degrees for two
+miles, thence 61 degrees for one mile to a high sand hill, thence 39
+degrees for one mile to a stony rise. My doubt of the black fellow's
+knowledge of the country is now confirmed; he seems to be quite lost, and
+knows nothing of the country, except what he has heard other blacks
+relate; he is quite bewildered and points all round when I ask him the
+direction of Wingillpin. I have determined to push into the westward,
+keeping a little north of west. Bearing 292 degrees for five miles, sand
+hills; thence 327 degrees to a table-hill nine miles. Camped without
+water. Our route to-day has been through sand hills, with a few miles of
+stones and dry reedy swamp, all well grassed, but no water. We came
+across some natives, who kept a long distance off. I sent our black up to
+them, to ask in which direction Wingillpin lay. They pointed to the
+course I was then steering, and said, "Five sleeps." They would not come
+near to us. About three-quarters of an hour afterwards I came suddenly
+upon another native, who was hunting in the sand hills. My attention
+being engaged in keeping the bearing, I did not observe him until he
+moved, but I pulled up at once, lest he should run away, and called to
+him. What he imagined I was I do not know; but when he turned round and
+saw me, I never beheld a finer picture of astonishment and fear. He was a
+fine muscular fellow, about six feet in height, and stood as if riveted
+to the spot, with his mouth wide open, and his eyes staring. I sent our
+black forward to speak with him, but omitted to tell him to dismount. The
+terrified native remained motionless, allowing our black to ride within a
+few yards of him, when, in an instant, he threw down his waddies, and
+jumped up into a mulga bush as high as he could, one foot being about
+three feet from the ground, and the other about two feet higher, and kept
+waving us off with his hand as we advanced. I expected every moment to
+see the bush break with his weight. When close under the bush, I told our
+black to inquire if he were a Wingillpin native. He was so frightened he
+could not utter a word, and trembled from head to foot. We then asked him
+where Wingillpin was. He mustered courage to let go one hand, and
+emphatically snapping his fingers in a north-west direction, again waved
+us off. I take this emphatic snapping of his fingers to mean a long
+distance. Probably this Wingillpin may be Cooper's Creek. We then left
+him, and proceeded on our way through the sand hills. About an hour
+before sunset, we came in full sight of a number of tent and table-topped
+hills to the north-west, the stony table land being to the south of us,
+and the dip of the country still towards Lake Torrens. I shall keep a
+little more to the west to-morrow if possible, to get the fall of the
+country the other way. The horses' shoes have been worn quite thin by the
+stones, and will not last above a day or two. Nay, some of the poor
+animals are already shoeless. It is most unfortunate that we did not
+bring another set with us. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles.
+
+Saturday, 26th June, Edge of Plain. Started at 9.30 a.m., on a bearing of
+314 degrees 30 minutes, over an undulating plain, with low sand hills and
+wide valleys, with plenty of grass and salt bush. After ten miles the
+sand hills ceased, and at thirteen miles we reached the point of the
+stony table land. Here we saw, to the north-north-west, what was
+apparently a large gum creek, running north-east and south-west. Changing
+our bearing to 285 degrees, after seven miles of very bad stony plain,
+thinly covered with salt bush and grass, we came upon the creek, and
+found long reaches of permanent water, divided here and there by only a
+few yards of rocks, and bordered by reeds and rushes. The water hole, by
+which we camped, is from forty to fifty feet wide, and half a mile in
+length; the water is excellent, and I could see small fish in it about
+two inches long. About ten miles down the creek the country seems to be
+more open, and the gum-trees much larger, and in a distant bend of the
+creek I can perceive a large body of water. The first of the seven or
+eight tent-like hills that were to the east of our route to-day presents
+a somewhat remarkable appearance. Of a conical form, it comes to a point
+like a Chinaman's hat, and is encircled near the top by a black ring,
+while some rocks resembling a white tower crown the summit. Distance
+to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Sunday, 27th June, Large Water Creek. Cloudy morning, with prospect of
+rain. A swan visited the water hole last night, and to-day we have seen
+both the mountain duck and the large black duck. Having a shoe to fix
+upon Jersey, and my courses to map down, we did not get a start until 10
+o'clock, and we were obliged to stop early in consequence of the grey
+mare getting so lame that we were unable to proceed. We had an old shoe
+or two, and Mr. Forster managed to get one on the mare. We started to-day
+on a bearing of 270 degrees for eight miles to a low flat-topped hill,
+when we changed to 220 degrees for five miles to a gum creek with rain
+water. About five miles to the north of our line there are flat-topped
+ranges, running north-east. The main creek runs on the south side of this
+course, and nearly parallel to it. Further to the south, at a distance of
+about ten miles, is still the stony table land with the sand hills. The
+country is fearfully stony, but improves a little in grass as we get
+west. It seems to be well watered. Distance to-day, about twelve miles.
+
+Monday, 28th June, Gum Creek. There has been a little rain during the
+night, and it is still coming down. As I am so far north, I regret that I
+am unable to go a little further, fearing the lameness of the horses from
+the stony nature of the country. I intend to follow the creek up, if it
+comes from the west, or a little to the north of west, to see if I cannot
+make the fall of the country to the south-west, and get on a better road
+for the horses. We started on a bearing of 305 degrees, but after a mile
+and a half, finding the creek wind too much to the north, we changed our
+course to 287 degrees for five miles to a small flat-topped hill. Changed
+our bearing again to 281 degrees for twenty-two miles to a tent hill, on
+the south side of which we camped. This part of the country is very stony
+and bad, with salt bush and very little grass. It has evidently been the
+course of a large water at some time, and reminded me of the stony desert
+of Captain Sturt. Bleak, barren, and desolate, it grows no timber, so
+that we scarcely can find sufficient wood to boil our quart pot. The
+rain, which poured down upon us all day, so softened the ground that the
+horses could tread the stones into it, and we got along much better than
+we expected. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles and a half.
+
+Tuesday, 29th June, South Side of Tent Hill. Started at 8.30 a.m. on a
+bearing of 305 degrees. At eight miles crossed a gum creek, with
+polyganum, running to the north. At twelve miles crossed another,
+trending in the same direction. These creeks are wide and formed into
+numerous channels. I expected to have done thirty miles to-day, but am
+disappointed, for we were obliged to halt early, after having gone only
+eighteen miles, as my horse was quite lame. How much do we feel the want
+of another set of horse-shoes! We have, however, still got an old shoe
+left, which is put on this afternoon. It had continued raining all last
+night, but not heavily, and cleared off in the morning shortly after we
+started. Our travelling to-day has been still very stony, over stony
+rises; the stony table land that has been all along on our left is now
+trending more to the south-west. The country is more open: in looking at
+it from one of the rises it has the appearance of an immense plain,
+studded with isolated flat-topped hills. The last eight miles is better
+grassed and has more salt bush. Camped on a small creek in the stony
+rises. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
+
+Wednesday, 30th June, Stony Rises. We had a little rain in the former
+part of the night, and a very heavy dew in the morning. Started at 9.30
+a.m., bearing 305 degrees; at five miles crossed the upper part of a gum
+creek, and at twelve miles ascended a high flat-topped hill, commanding a
+view of an immense stony plain, but it is so hazy that we can see nothing
+beyond ten miles. From this hill we changed our course to 309 degrees to
+a saddle in the next range. At four miles halted at a gum creek, with
+plenty of green feed. Made a very short journey to-day in consequence of
+the horses being quite lame. In addition to their want of shoes, a stiff,
+tenacious brown clay adhered to the hoof, and picked up the small round
+stones, which pressed on the frog of the foot. These pebbles were as
+firmly packed as if they had been put in with cement, so that we had hard
+work to keep the hoofs clear. Distance travelled, sixteen miles. Weather
+showery.
+
+Thursday, 1st July, Gum Greek. The horses have had such poor food for the
+last week that I shall rest them to-day. About half a mile below us there
+is a large water hole a quarter of a mile long, with a number of black
+ducks upon it, but they are very shy. It rained very heavily and without
+intermission all last night and to-day. This creek is visited by a great
+many natives. We saw them making away as we approached.
+
+Friday, 2nd July, Same Place. The creek came down last night: it is now a
+sheet of water two hundred yards broad. Started at 8.45 a.m. over a stony
+plain on a bearing of 309 degrees, to the saddle in the range. I ascended
+one of the highest hills in this range, but the day was too dull to see
+far. I could, however, distinguish what appeared to be a wooded country*
+in the distance, from south-west to north-east. (* This "wooded country"
+afterwards turned out to be sand hills, with scrub.) Observing that the
+country a little more to the north was less stony, I changed our course
+to a bearing of 344 degrees, over a plain thinly covered with gravelly
+stones, consisting of quartz, ironstone, and a dark reddish-brown stone,
+with a good deal of gypsum cropping out. The soil is of a light-brown
+colour, with plenty of dry grass upon it, and very little salt bush. In
+the spring time it must look beautiful. The country was so boggy from the
+heavy rains, that for the sake of my horse I was obliged to stop early.
+Camped at a gum creek coming from the south-west, and running a little to
+the east of north. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
+
+Sunday, 4th July, Same Place. Not the slightest appearance of a change.
+It rained in torrents all night and all day, though at sundown it seemed
+to be breaking a little. The creek came down in the forenoon, overflowed
+its banks, and left us on an island before we knew what we were about. We
+were obliged to seek a higher place. Not content with depriving us of our
+first worley, it has now forced us to retreat to a bare hill, without any
+protection from the weather. The rain has come from the north-east.
+
+Monday, 5th July, Same Place. The rain lasted the greater part of the
+night, but became light before morning. Started at 12.30 on a bearing of
+312 degrees for eleven miles to some sand hills. A fearfully hard day's
+work for the poor horses over a stony plain, sinking up to their knees in
+mud, until at eight miles we crossed a reedy swamp two miles in breadth,
+and how many in length I know not, for it seemed all one sheet of water:
+it took our horses up to their bellies.
+
+Tuesday, 6th July, Sand Hills. All our rations and everything we have got
+being perfectly saturated with wet, I have made up my mind to stop and
+put them to rights; if we neglect them it will soon be all over with us.
+This was a beautiful day, not a cloud to be seen. There are a great many
+natives' tracks in these sand hills, and plenty of grass.
+
+Wednesday, 7th July, Sand Hills. Heavy dew last night. Started on a
+bearing of 312 degrees at 9 a.m. At eleven miles the sand hills cease,
+and stony plain commences. The sand hills were well grassed: also the
+stony plain. Dip of the country still north-east. We crossed two
+watercourses--one at this side of the plain, and the other two miles
+back, broad and shallow. I could see gum-trees on the latter about two
+miles to the north-east as if it formed itself into a deeper channel.
+Travelling very heavy. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
+
+Thursday, 8th July, Sand Hills. A very heavy dew again last night.
+Started at 9 a.m. At one mile we came on yesterday's course; could see
+nothing; changed the bearing to 272 degrees. At seven miles crossed a
+creek running north and a little west, the water being up to our
+saddle-flaps. At twelve miles the sand hills ceased, and we came upon an
+elevated plain, of a light-brown soil, with fragments of stone on the
+surface. At twenty-five miles, in the middle of this plain, we camped,
+without wood, and in sight of a large range in the far distance to the
+west. Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
+
+Friday, 9th July, Large Plain. Left our camp at 8.50 a.m. on the same
+bearing as yesterday, 272 degrees. At one mile and half came upon a creek
+of water, seemingly permanent. Judging from the immense quantity of dry
+grass that is strewn over the plain, this must be a beautiful country in
+spring. The dip of the country is to the north and west. Our horses are
+all very lame for want of shoes, and the boggy state of the soil to-day
+has tried them severely. If the country does not become less stony, I
+shall be compelled to leave some of them behind. We camped on a gum creek
+about three miles to the west of the range. My only hope now of cutting
+Cooper's Creek is on the other side of the range. The plain we crossed
+to-day resembles those of the Cooper, also the grasses; if it is not
+there, it must run to the north-west, and form the Glenelg of Captain
+Grey. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
+
+Saturday, 10th July, Gum Creek, West End of Large Stony Plain. Rested the
+horses to-day. This evening we were surprised to hear a dog barking* at
+the grey mare; its colour was black and tan. (* It is commonly supposed
+that the native dingo or wild dog does not bark. This is an error. The
+dog in this instance being black and tan, was probably a hybrid. (See
+below.))
+
+Sunday, 11th July, Same Place. This morning the sun rose at 62 degrees.
+Bearing to-day, 272 degrees, so as to round the point of range, which
+seems to have a little mallee in the gullies on this side, and some trees
+on the west side. Started at 8.30 a.m., and at four miles ascended the
+highest point of the range. The view to the north-east is over an immense
+stony plain with broken hills in the distance. To the north is also the
+plain, with table-hills in the far distance. To the north-west is the
+termination of the range running north-east and south-west, distant about
+ten miles; about half-way between is a gum creek running to north-east.
+To the west is the same range, and a number of conical hills between.
+Changed our bearing to 220 degrees in order to break through the range.
+This range is very stony, composed of a hard milky-white flint stone, and
+white and yellow chalky substance, with a gradual descent on the other
+side to the south, which is the finest salt-bush country that I have
+seen, with a great quantity of grass upon it. The grey mare has been very
+bad; her belly was very much swollen, but this morning she seemed better.
+Towards afternoon, however, she fagged very much, which caused me to stop
+so soon. I am almost afraid that I shall lose her. I shall see how she is
+in the morning, and, if she is no better, I will endeavour to get her on
+to some permanent water or creek running to the south. I think we have
+now made the dip of the country to the south, but the mirage is so
+powerful that little bushes appear like great gum-trees, which makes it
+very difficult to judge what is before us; it is almost as bad as
+travelling in the dark. I never saw it so bright nor so continuous as it
+is now; one would think that the whole country was under water. Camped
+without water. No timber as yet on this side of the range, except a few
+bushes in the creek. A good deal of rain has fallen here lately, and the
+vegetation is looking fresh.
+
+Monday, 12th July, Large Salt-Bush and Grass Plain. The mare seems a
+little better this morning, and I shall be able to make a short journey.
+There was a very heavy white frost during the night, and it was bitterly
+cold. Not a hill to be seen either to the south-west or west--nothing but
+plain. Left our camp at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing of 220 degrees; at two
+miles and a half changed to 112 degrees for three miles to a small creek
+running south with plenty of feed and water. We found our horses very
+much done up this morning; they could scarcely travel over the stones,
+which caused me to alter my course to the eastward, where I found the
+travelling generally better. All the horses are now so lame that I shall
+require to rest them before I can proceed. They will not walk above two
+miles an hour among the stones. The stony plain seems to continue a long
+way to the south-west, but the country being undulating and the mirage so
+strong, I cannot say precisely. I intend to see where this creek will
+lead me to, for I cannot face the stones again. Our distance to-day, five
+miles and a half.
+
+Tuesday, 13th July, Mulga Creek. Went to the highest point on the stony
+range east of us, but could only see a very short distance. There are a
+number of creeks on the eastern side running into this one. The range is
+low and very stony, composed of flints and pebbles of all colours. No
+timber.
+
+Wednesday, 14th July, Same Place. During the night it became very cloudy,
+and I was afraid we were going to have more rain, but it has ended in a
+light shower, and cleared off this morning. I shall follow down the creek
+and see what it leads to. The grey mare still seems very bad, and I must
+make short journeys until she gets a little better. Started at 8.30 a.m.,
+bearing 180 degrees for eight miles to Large Mulga Creek, thence 192
+degrees for four miles. The country to-day is good on both sides of the
+creek, a good salt-bush country with plenty of grass, but rather stony.
+The gum trees are becoming a little larger on the creek, which at present
+is formed into a great many channels. The timber consists of mulga and
+dwarf gum, with saplings. There is plenty of water in the creek at
+present, from the late rain, but I see nothing to indicate its becoming
+permanent. Distance to-day, twelve miles.
+
+Thursday, 15th July, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9 a.m. on a
+bearing of 190 degrees for two miles, thence 230 degrees for one mile and
+a half, thence 250 degrees for four miles and a half, thence 286 degrees
+for two miles, thence 290 degrees for one mile, thence 270 degrees for
+five miles, thence 320 degrees for one mile, to camp at some mallee. The
+country on both sides of the creek is good, but subject to be flooded;
+the width of the plain is about fifteen miles, bounded on the south side
+by bare stony rises, and on the north by scrubby rises. The creek spreads
+itself all over the plain, which seems to be very extensive. It has been
+excessively cold to-day: wind from the west. Distance to-day, seventeen
+miles.
+
+Friday, 16th July, Large Plain, Mulga and Gum Creek. Left the camp at 9
+a.m., on a bearing of 270 degrees for nine miles. The first six miles was
+a continuation of the creek and plain; it then turned to the north-west
+and the sand hills commenced. At nine miles we had a good view of the
+surrounding country, from the east to the north-west. To the west we
+could see the range that we crossed on the 11th instant trending away to
+the north-west as far as the eye could reach, apparently a sandy and
+scrubby country with small patches of open ground intervening. There also
+appeared to be a gum creek, about five miles west of this point. Seeing
+there was no hope for anything to the west for a long distance, I changed
+my course to the south on a bearing of 190 degrees to cross the stony
+rise, keeping on the sand hills for the benefit of the horses' feet. At
+five miles found that the sandy country swept round the stony rise, the
+country still having the appearance of scrub and sand hills all round. I
+altered my course to south-east to 132 degrees for fourteen miles; on
+this course we have ridden over a scrubby plain of a light sandy soil,
+most beautifully grassed but dry, the young feed not having sprung. We
+have not seen a drop of water on the surface; the ground evidently
+absorbs all that falls; the scrub is principally the mulga and hakea
+bushes and acacia, with a few other small bushes, but very little salt
+bush. Camped to-night without water. The grey mare appears to be getting
+round again; it seems to have been an affection of the chest, and has now
+fallen down into the left knee, which has become very much swollen, but
+it seems to have relieved her chest; she now feeds as well as ever.
+Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles.
+
+Saturday, 17th July, Scrub and Sandy Plain without Water. Started at 8.10
+a.m. on the same course, 132 degrees. At two miles and a half, rain
+water; at seven miles crossed a stunted gum creek running towards the
+south-west; at twenty-five miles came upon a little rain water. Camped.
+The plain still continues with very low rises at intervals; the scrub is
+much thicker and the greater part of it dead, which makes it very
+difficult to travel through. The grass is not so plentiful, and it is
+more sandy. The creek that we crossed at seven miles was running; it had
+salt tea-tree on its banks, and seems likely to have some permanent water
+either above or below. I did not examine it, because, the surrounding
+country being so sandy and scrubby, it will be of little use. Distance
+to-day, twenty-five miles.
+
+Sunday, 18th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Rain Water. Left at 9.15 a.m. on
+the same bearing, 132 degrees. We saw some native worleys, and the tracks
+of a number of natives having passed this place a day or two ago, going
+to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty miles. Had to halt early in
+consequence of grey mare being done up and unable to proceed. The first
+part of the day's journey the scrub became more open and splendidly
+grassed, the latter part was fearfully thick, it is composed of mulga,
+dead and alive, and a few hakea and other bushes, with salt bush and
+plenty of grass of two or three different sorts. We have a view of rising
+ground a little to the north of our line, about from fifteen to twenty
+miles distant. To-morrow I shall alter my course to strike the highest
+point; it is a range, and seems to be wooded. I suppose it is the same
+range that we crossed on the 11th instant. It is very cloudy, and seems
+as if it will rain. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Monday, 19th July, Dense Scrubby Plain. Started at 9.15 a.m. on a bearing
+of 120 degrees to the highest point of the range. A slight shower fell
+early this morning; it still looks very cloudy. We could only accomplish
+ten miles to-day in consequence of the grey mare being unable to proceed
+farther; if I can get her on to permanent water I shall leave her; she
+only keeps me back, and endangers the other horses. I shall be very sorry
+to do so, for she is a great favourite. We are now camped at a place
+where there are five or six small watercourses; if we can find water I
+shall give her until to-morrow to rest. The country that we have come
+over to-day is most splendidly grassed, of a red light sandy soil, but
+good; the mulga bushes in some places grow thick, and a great many are
+very tall. Forster caught an opossum--the first that we have seen; we
+intend making a dinner from him to-day. This is the first game we have
+been able to secure, except two small ducks we had at the beginning of
+our journey. We have found water a little way down the valley, which I
+think will become a large creek further to the south-west. We are again
+in the country of the kangaroos. Distance to-day, ten miles.
+
+Tuesday, 20th July, Grassy Valley. We had another shower this morning. I
+must try and make the hills to-day if I can. Started at 10.10 a.m. on the
+same bearing as yesterday, 120 degrees, and at four miles ascended the
+peak on the range. I see around me a scrubby country, with open patches,
+and here and there in the far distance what appear to be belts of mulga.
+Four miles beyond this hill we halted at some rain water. We have seen
+three or four kangaroos to-day; they were the red sort with white
+breasts. Distance travelled, eight miles.
+
+Wednesday 21st July, Grass and Salt-Bush Plains. Left the camp at 9 a.m.
+on a bearing of 97 degrees. Camped at some rain water in a clay-pan. At
+twelve miles there is low rising ground running north-west and
+south-east, which divides the two plains; there are no creeks, but the
+dip of the country is to the south-west. This is as fine a salt-bush and
+grass country as I have seen. It is a pity there is no permanent water.
+Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Thursday, 22nd July, Open, Good Country. Started at 9 a.m. on the same
+course as yesterday, 97 degrees. At ten miles crossed a small watercourse
+running to the south-south-west; at sixteen miles came through the saddle
+of a low range running north-west and south-east composed of limestone;
+it forms one of the boundaries of a large plain, which seems well adapted
+for pastoral purposes; it is well grassed, with salt bush, although we
+could find no permanent water. I think I can see a gum creek to the east
+of us, but the mirage is so powerful that I am not quite certain.
+Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Friday, 23rd July, Large East Plain. Started at 9.10 a.m. on a bearing of
+82 degrees, and at four miles ascended an isolated hill, but can see
+nothing of the gum creek. Changed our course to 122 degrees, and at four
+miles crossed a mulga creek running to the east. Camped on the south-east
+side of a flat-topped hill, which, although the highest I have yet seen,
+enabled me to see nothing but the range to the north-east, and a high
+conical hill about ten miles south-west, connected with the ranges. The
+country is without timber except a few mulga bushes at intervals.
+Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
+
+Saturday, 24th July, South-east Side of Flat-topped Hill. Left at 8.10
+a.m. on the same course, 122 degrees, over an undulating stony plain,
+with narrow sand hills at intervals, and a number of lagoons containing
+rain water, where we camped. I intend to move to-morrow to another large
+lagoon that we have seen from a small rise, and rest the horses there;
+they have had a very severe day of it, and feel the want of shoes very
+much. The stones are mostly white quartz and ironstone, small and
+water-washed. I conclude they have come from the hills that are to the
+south-west. Distance to-day, twenty-four miles.
+
+Sunday, 25th July, A Lagoon of Rain Water. Finding that we have sand
+hills to cross, and being anxious to meet with the gum creek that the
+blacks have talked about, I have determined to proceed to-day, but if I
+do not find it on this course I shall turn to the south. Started at eight
+a.m. on a bearing of 122 degrees. At five miles, one mile to the south is
+a large reedy swamp. At fourteen miles changed the bearing to 135 degrees
+to the head of a swamp, two miles and a half, found it dry, a large
+clay-pan about three miles in circumference. I am obliged to halt, the
+horses are very tired and want rest; and there being plenty of beautiful
+green feed about, I have halted without water. Our journey has been
+through a very thick mulga scrub and sand hills, very heavy travelling.
+The trees in the scrub are of a different description to any that I have
+seen; they grow high and very crooked, without branches until near the
+top, and with a rough, ragged bark; seven or eight seem to spring from
+one root. The wood is very tough and heavy, and burns a long time, giving
+out a glowing heat. The leaves resemble the mulga, but are of a darker
+colour and smaller size. The native name is Moratchee. Shot a wallaby,
+and had him for dinner. They are very wild, no getting within shot of
+them, which is unfortunate, as our provisions are getting rather short.
+From the number of native tracks about, this would seem to be their
+season for hunting in the sand hills, which accounts for everything being
+so wild. We saw five turkeys yesterday, but could not get within shot of
+them. All the water seems to drain into the reedy swamp and clay-pans. I
+shall go no further to the east on this course, for I can see no
+inducement. I shall go south to-morrow, and see what that produces; if I
+cross no large creek within forty-five miles in that direction, I shall
+then direct my course for the north-west of Fowler's Bay to see what is
+there. Distance to-day, sixteen miles.
+
+Monday, 27th July, Sand Hills and Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 9.20 a.m.
+on a southerly course, 182 degrees. At thirteen miles we camped at some
+rain water to give the horses a little rest. We have come through a very
+thick scrub of mulga, with broken sand hills and a few low rises of lime
+and ironstone. We have seen two or three pines for the first time, and a
+few black oaks. No appearance of a change of country. From a high sand
+ridge I could see a long way to the north-east, seemingly all a dense
+scrub. The grey mare is unwell again. Distance to-day, thirteen miles.
+
+Tuesday, 27th July, Sandy Undulations. Started at 9 a.m. on the same
+bearing as yesterday, 182 degrees. At twenty-one miles changed our course
+to 235 degrees to some gum-trees. The first part of our journey the scrub
+became lower and more open, with limestone and sand rises at intervals,
+and with a good deal of grass in places. The last ten miles the mulga
+scrub was so dense that it was with difficulty we managed to get through.
+We have seen no water on this day's route, except that in the lagoon we
+are now camped at, and which is as salt as the sea. There is another
+large lagoon about a mile to the westward of us, which I will examine
+to-morrow to see if it gives rise to any creek. Distance to-day,
+twenty-two miles.
+
+Wednesday, 28th July, Sand Hills. Started at 9 a.m. on a bearing of 283
+degrees for two miles to examine the other lagoon, which is about three
+miles long, water salt. Changed our course to 182 degrees for ten miles
+to a large lake crossing our course. Changed our bearing to 240 degrees,
+and at four miles changed to 270 degrees, crossing some horse-tracks
+going towards the large lake. This seems to be a country of salt lagoons,
+for we passed three, and have seen a great many more. The large one that
+crossed our south course is evidently the head of Lake Gairdner. I could
+see it winding away in that direction. We have now got upon a plain
+slightly undulating with thick scrub and the unceasing mulga, intermixed
+with a few black oaks; no signs of water, no creeks. I intend to proceed
+north of west to intersect any creek or country that may come from the
+good country that we found on our south-east course, and the land of
+kangaroos; there is no hope of anything here. Camped without water.
+Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Thursday, 29th July, Mulga Plain, West of Lake Gairdner. Our course
+to-day is 310 degrees. Left our camp at 8.30, and accomplished twenty
+miles of the same scrubby plain, slightly undulating. Plenty of grass,
+but no water. Same description of country as on the 18th instant.
+
+Friday, 30th July, Mulga Plain. Started at 7.35 on same course, 310
+degrees. The scrub is so dense that I cannot see above one hundred yards
+ahead, and sometimes not that. During the night some swans and two ducks
+flew over, apparently from Lake Gairdner, and going in our direction. At
+ten miles, having met with some rain water, we halted, for the horses had
+been three nights without it. I have given them the rest of the day to
+drink their fill. This seems to be a continuation of the stony plain we
+crossed on our south-eastern line. The country appears open to the south,
+but no sign of any permanent water. Forster bakes the last of our flour
+this afternoon--the last of our provisions. Distance to-day, ten miles.
+
+Saturday, 31st July, South Stony Plain. Left at 8.30 on the same bearing,
+310 degrees. At ten miles we ascended a low range running north and
+south. We did not see a drop of water all day. Our course was over a
+gradually rising plain, well grassed at intervals, with plenty of salt
+bush, and with stone on the surface, composed of quartz, ironstone, and
+the hard white flinty stone so frequently met with. The scrub has nearly
+ceased. The dip of the country is south. During the night we again heard
+a dog barking at one of the horses, and during the day we saw two
+kangaroos. At ten miles we crossed a valley, through which water has been
+flowing to the south-south-west. Camped without water. Distance to-day,
+fifteen miles.
+
+Sunday, 1st August, Stony Plain Valley. Left at 8.45 on the same bearing,
+310 degrees. My reason for keeping this bearing is that there seems to
+have been very little rain to the south of us, and I am unwilling to get
+too far away from where it has fallen, in case I have to put to my former
+line for it. If I should meet with it to-day I shall turn south-west or
+west. This country is very dry, and absorbs all that falls. It is of a
+bright red soil, mixed with sand and, in some places, lime. At ten miles
+I am obliged to stop, in consequence of the grey mare being quite done
+up; the stones play the mischief with her. I have great doubts of her
+living through the journey. Distance to-day, ten miles.
+
+Monday, 2nd August, Salt Bush--a Stony Plain. We had a little rain during
+the night. Started at 9 on a bearing of 315 degrees. At three miles
+changed our course to 230 degrees. The last three miles of this day's
+journey were through rather a thick scrub, but well grassed, with few
+stones. The former part was through a very well-grassed country, with a
+little salt bush and low scrub. Saw a number of kangaroos, but they were
+too wild to get near them. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd August, Good Country. It has rained during the whole night,
+and is likely to do so to-day. Started at 9, on the same course as
+yesterday, 230 degrees. The first portion of our journey was over six
+miles of splendid alluvial country, covered with grass--partly spear
+grass--with a little salt bush intermixed with it, also a few mulga
+bushes at intervals; no other timber. It is a most beautiful open piece
+of country, and looks much better than the Adelaide plains did at the
+commencement of the colony. Four miles further it was not so good; the
+soil became a little lighter, with more salt bush, and a little scrub.
+The last eleven miles the soil is good, with grass and salt bush in
+abundance, but much thicker with mulga and other low scrubs. It seems to
+be a continuation of the same scrub that we passed over on the 19th
+ultimo, and I observe that the ants build their habitations in the same
+style as they did there. They are about one foot in diameter at the base,
+and formed in the shape of a cone, and are supported by the dead root of
+a mulga. Others, however, stand from eighteen inches to three feet in
+height, built of clay, and on the surface. The kangaroo and emu inhabit
+the country. We have also found a number of places where the natives have
+been encamped. They seem to be numerous, judging from the number of
+places where they have had their fires; but we have not seen any of them.
+We have had it raining nearly all day, and it still looks bad. Our black
+fellow left us during the night; he seemed to be very much frightened of
+the other natives. He knows nothing of the country, and if he follows our
+tracks back, I don't envy him his walk. He was of very little use to us,
+and I wish I had sent him off before, but I thought he might be useful in
+conversing with the other natives when we should meet them. He was of no
+other use than for tracking and assisting in getting the horses in the
+morning, for I have given them every advantage--they have been seldom
+hobbled. There are three small valleys on our line in which water seems
+to have run at some former period. We have crossed no course of rocks of
+any description since our northern line; from which I am of opinion that
+the drainage is underneath, so that there ought to be numerous springs
+near the sea-coast. Camped without water. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Wednesday, 4th August, Scrubby Good Country. Started at 8 on the same
+bearing as yesterday, 230 degrees. At thirteen miles ascended a low red
+granite range in which there is water. Changed our bearing to 209 degrees
+to a hill on the opposite range; when I returned I found the grey mare so
+done up that she is unable to proceed. I should not like to leave her,
+but I cannot delay longer with her. For about half a mile under the range
+where we are now camped is beautiful feed up to the horses' knees. Six
+cockatoos passed over to another range. We have also found a small
+running stream where I shall leave the mare to-morrow; I will make an
+attempt to regain her as I return.
+
+Thursday, 5th August, Granite Range. Started at 8 on the same bearing for
+the hill on the opposite range. At six miles another low granite range
+with water, where we left the mare. At twelve miles went to the highest
+point of the range composed of hard flinty quartz and ironstone. We had a
+good view of the surrounding country, which was generally low and
+undulating, with salt lakes crossing at about ten miles. This region
+appears to be dotted with the lagoons from nearly the foot of the range.
+Changed our bearing to 268 degrees for nine miles. Camped under a range
+of low hills with good feed for the horses. On our west course we crossed
+a plain of red light soil, with abundance of grass and a little salt bush
+with a very thick scrub close to the range, but as we advanced it became
+more open, and the scrub lower. Shot a wallaby and had him for supper.
+Distance to-day, twenty-five miles.
+
+Friday, 6th August, Under the Low Range. Left at 8.30 a.m. on a bearing
+of 239 degrees to avoid the stones on the hills. At five miles and a half
+got some rain water; at nine miles changed our bearing to 255 degrees; at
+fifteen miles camped among the sand hills. Shot another wallaby. The
+timber about here is very large, consisting of black oaks, mallee, mulga,
+the native peach, the nut, and numerous low scrubs. The grass is good in
+some places. The mountain that I am steering for is further off than I
+anticipated; we got sight of it a short time before we halted; it seems
+to be very high, and I expect something good will be the result of our
+visit to it to-morrow. The hills that we were camped under last night are
+composed of quartz, and are connected with the range that we were on
+running to the south-west. Distance to-day, twenty six miles.
+
+Saturday, 7th August, Sand Hills going to the High Mount. Left at 8.30
+a.m. on the same bearing, 255 degrees, for eighteen miles to the foot of
+the mountain. At fifteen miles camped under the highest point, which is
+composed of quartz rock. The journey to-day has been through horrid dense
+scrub and heavy sand hills, to the foot of the hill, which I have named
+Mount Finke. It is as high as Mount Arden; I have not light to get on the
+top of it to-night. Very little rain has fallen here, and we have been
+without water for the last two nights: the country is of such a light
+sandy soil that it will not retain it. I almost give up hopes of a good
+country; this is very disheartening after all that I have done to find
+it. If I see nothing from the top of the mount to-morrow, I must turn
+down to Fowler's Bay for water for the horses. As I could not remain
+quiet, I got on one of the lower spurs of Mount Finke to see what was
+before me. The prospect is gloomy in the extreme! I could see a long
+distance, but nothing met the eye save A DENSE SCRUB AS BLACK AND DISMAL
+AS MIDNIGHT. On my return I found that Forster had succeeded in finding
+water by digging in the creek. Distance to-day, twenty miles.
+
+Sunday, 8th August, Mount Finke. At dawn of day I ascended the mountain,
+but was unable to see much more than I did last night, in consequence of
+there being a mist all round. No high rising ground is to be seen in any
+direction. A FEARFUL COUNTRY. Left the mount at 9.30 a.m. on a bearing of
+270 degrees. At eighteen miles halted to give the horses some food, as
+they were obliged to be tied up all last night, there not being any feed
+for them, and the scrub very dense. The horse Blower seems to be very
+unwell; he has lain down twice this morning, and an hour's rest will do
+him good. After leaving the mount we have a thick mallee and mulga scrub
+to go through with spinifex. At ten miles changed our bearing to 190
+degrees; at eight miles camped. The whole of our journey to day has been
+through a dreadful desert of sand hills and spinifex. In the last eight
+miles we have not seen a mouthful for the horses to eat and not a drop of
+water; it is even WORSE than Captain Sturt's desert, where there was a
+little salt bush; but here there is not a vestige. Distance to-day,
+twenty-five miles.
+
+Monday, 9th August, Desert. Started at 8.30 on the same bearing, 190
+degrees. At five miles there is a change in the country; the spinifex has
+suddenly ceased and low scrub taken its place; the sand ridges are spread
+and the valley wider. At seven miles discovered some rock water in the
+middle of a valley with plenty of salt bush and green grass, first rate
+for the horses, which have had nothing to eat for two nights. I shall
+give them the rest of the day to recover. They were beginning to be very
+much done up, and it was with difficulty we could get them to face the
+spinifex. Shot a pigeon and had him for supper. We have seen where a
+horse has been a long time ago. Distance to-day, seven miles.
+
+Tuesday, 10th August, Rock Water. Started at 8.30 on a bearing of 180
+degrees. Camped at eighteen miles without water, and a very little food
+for the horses, only a little salt bush. The appearance of a change from
+the dreary desert lasted only for about one mile from where we camped
+last night; it then became even worse than before--the sand hills higher,
+steeper and closer together, the spinifex thicker and higher; we got the
+horses through it with difficulty. It rained all last night and all day.
+There is some rising ground to the west. Distance to-day, eighteen miles.
+
+Wednesday, 11th August, Dense Scrub. Left our camp at 8 on the same
+bearing, 180 degrees. At 9 obliged to halt for the remainder of the day,
+the horses being too tired to proceed further; the fearful sand hills are
+very trying for them. To-day's few miles have been through the same
+DREARY, DREADFUL, DISMAL DESERT of heavy sand hills and spinifex with
+mallee very dense, scarcely a mouthful for the horses to eat. When will
+it have an end? We again saw the rising ground a little to the north of
+west of us; I should have gone and examined it, but our small remaining
+quantity of provisions being nearly exhausted, I could not venture; my
+object now being to make Fowler's Bay for water for our horses, and
+thence to Streaky Bay, to endeavour to get some provisions there to carry
+us home. We have now travelled considerably upwards of a thousand miles,
+and in that journey my horses have had only four clear days to
+themselves; they have done most excellently well. No water.
+
+Thursday, 12th August. Dense Scrub. Left at 8.25 on a bearing of 165
+degrees. Camped at ten miles; the horses done up. The same dreary desert.
+No water.
+
+Friday, 13th August. Dense Scrub. The horses look very bad this morning.
+I hope we shall be able to make the sea-coast to-day. Started at 8.30 on
+the same bearing, 165 degrees, but was unable to get more than ten miles
+out of the horses; Bonney is nearly done up, and there is no water for
+the poor animals. I hope I shall not be obliged to leave the poor old
+horse behind, but I very much fear that I shall have to do so if nothing
+turns up to-morrow. The country is still the same. This is dreadful work!
+
+Saturday, 14th August, Dense Scrub. Started at 8.15 on the same bearing,
+165 degrees. At ten miles came upon some green feed for the horses, and
+gave them the benefit of it for the rest of the day. Bonney still very
+bad. For the last two miles we have had no sand hills, but very dense
+mallee and tea-tree, with a light sandy soil with a little limestone,
+also salt bush and pig-face in abundance. No water.
+
+Sunday, 15th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 8.45 on same bearing,
+165 degrees. At two miles and a half changed our course to 225 degrees,
+having found some fresh horse-tracks; at seven miles camped for the
+remainder of the day to recruit the horses, having come upon some new
+green grass. Distance actually travelled, fifteen miles.
+
+Monday, 16th August, Dense Mallee Scrub. Started at 9 on a course of 205
+degrees. Twelve miles to Miller's Water. I intended to have given the
+horses two days' rest here, but there is not sufficient water; there are
+only three holes in the limestone rock, and the thirsty animals have
+nearly drunk it all: there will not be enough for them in the morning.
+The country that we have come through yesterday and to-day resembles the
+scrub between Franklin Harbour and Port Lincoln--mallee with grassy
+plains occasionally--only the mallee is larger, and the plains are met
+with at shorter intervals, more numerous and of larger extent. The soil
+is good but light, being produced by decomposed limestone, of which the
+low range to the north-west is composed. I am unable to go to Fowler's
+Bay as I intended; our provisions are exhausted, and the horses unable to
+do the journey. I must now shape my course for Streaky Bay to get
+something to eat.
+
+Tuesday, 17th August, Miller's Water. Watered our horses from a
+waterproof with a quart pot. Started at 9.15, our course 160 degrees, six
+miles to Bectimah Gaip. For the first three miles the grassy plains are
+very good, and seem to run a considerable distance between belts of large
+mallee, in some places wider than in others, and seem to be connected by
+small gaips; I think water could be easily obtained by digging. The last
+three miles to the coast is very dense small mallee. Actual distance,
+twelve miles. I intend to give the horses a rest to-morrow. I regret
+exceedingly that I was unable to make Fowler's Bay. It is with difficulty
+that I have been able to save Bonney; he is still very weak and unable to
+do a day's journey; we can scarcely get him to do the short journeys we
+have been doing lately. For upwards of a month we have been existing upon
+two pounds and a half of flour cake daily, without animal food. Since we
+commenced the journey, all the animal food we have been able to obtain
+has been four wallabies, one opossum, one small duck, one pigeon, and
+latterly a few kangaroo mice, which were very welcome; we were anxious to
+find more, but we soon got out of their country.
+
+These kangaroo mice are elegant little animals, about four inches in
+length, and resemble the kangaroo in shape, with a long tail terminating
+with a sort of brush. Their habitations are of a conical form, built with
+twigs and rotten wood, about six feet in diameter at the base, and rising
+to a height of three or four feet. When the natives discover one of these
+nests they surround it, treading firmly round the base in order to secure
+any outlet; they then remove the top of the cone, and, as the mice
+endeavour to escape, they kill them with the waddies which they use with
+such unfailing skill. When the nest is found by only a few natives, they
+set fire to the top of the cone, and thus secure the little animals with
+ease. For the last month we have been reduced to one meal a-day, and that
+a very small one, which has exhausted us both very much and made us
+almost incapable of exertion. We have now only TWO meals left to take us
+to Streaky Bay, which is distant from this place ONE HUNDRED MILES. We
+have been forced to boil the tops of the pigface, to satisfy the wants of
+nature. Being short of water, we boiled them in their own juice. To a
+hungry man they were very palatable, and, had they been boiled in fresh
+water, would have made a good vegetable. Yesterday we obtained a few
+sow-thistles, which we boiled, and found to be very good.
+
+Wednesday, 18th August, Bectimah Gaip. Rested the horses and obtained a
+few shell-fish from the beach: there are very few, which was a
+disappointment to us.
+
+Thursday, 19th August, Bectimah Gaip. Started at 8 a.m. for Streaky Bay.
+I managed to get thirty miles to-day, which is a great help. I only hope
+that Mr. Gibson is at Streaky Bay, so that we may be able to get
+something to eat; we must endure three days' more starving before we
+shall be able to reach there.
+
+Friday, 20th August, Smoky Bay. Started at 7.15. Mallee scrub in some
+places very dense, in others open, with good grassy plains at intervals,
+in which I think water could be had by digging; very few birds about, and
+those small. At twenty-five miles we got some rock water. Distance
+to-day, thirty-five miles.
+
+Saturday, 21st August, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.30 on a
+south-easterly course. Got a little water in the limestone rock for our
+horses. Camped on the shore at Streaky Bay at sundown. The last sixteen
+miles were through very dense scrub; the former part through scrub with
+good grassy plains at intervals. Distance, thirty-eight miles.
+
+Sunday, 22nd August, On the Shore at Streaky Bay. Started at 11 a.m. to
+make Mr. Gibson's station. The horses did not arrive until 10.30, as they
+had gone back on their tracks of yesterday. During the time Forster was
+after them, I managed to shoot a crow, and cooked him in the ashes. We
+had him for breakfast--the first food we have had for the last three
+days; it was very agreeable to taste and stomach, for we were beginning
+to feel the cravings of nature rather severely. I hope Mr. Gibson will be
+at the Depot; it will be a fine trouble if he is not, and we have to
+travel two hundred and forty miles on the chance of shooting something.
+Twenty-four miles to Mr. Gibson's station, where we were received and
+treated with great kindness, for which we were very thankful. We enjoyed
+a good supper, which, after three days' fasting, as may readily be
+imagined, was quite a treat.
+
+Monday, 23rd August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Both Forster and myself felt
+very unwell, especially Forster, who is very bad; the sudden change from
+a state of starvation to plenty of good and wholesome food has been the
+cause. I am suffering chiefly from weakness and a very severe pain
+between the shoulder-blades, which I have felt for some weeks back. It is
+a dreadful pain, and nearly incapacitated me from sitting in the saddle
+all day yesterday; I thought I should not have been able to reach here, I
+was so very bad with it. I have been obliged to send down to the next
+station, about thirty miles distant, to try and get some horseshoes. I
+must rest here a few days to recover.
+
+Tuesday, 24th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Forster appears to be a
+little better this morning, but very weak; I also feel a little better
+this morning from yesterday's rest.
+
+Wednesday, 25th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have succeeded in getting
+some shoes for the horses from Mr. Miller, to whom I am deeply indebted
+for his kindness in allowing me to have them.
+
+Thursday, 26th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Shoeing the horses and
+preparing for a start at the beginning of next week.
+
+Friday, 27th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. At the same thing. Improving
+in health and strength.
+
+Saturday, 28th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I have been very unwell all
+night.
+
+Sunday, 29th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. Still very ill; unable to do
+anything.
+
+Monday, 30th August, Mr. Gibson's Station. The same.
+
+Tuesday, 31st August, Mr. Gibson's Station. I had a dreadful night of it;
+seized with cramp in the stomach, and thought I should never see morning;
+no medicine to relieve me. I intended to have started to-day, but am
+quite unable to do so.
+
+Wednesday, 1st September, Mr. Gibson's Station. Can stay no longer; made
+a start to-day, and got as far as one of Mr. Gibson's out-stations,
+twenty-five miles. Quite done up.
+
+Thursday, 2nd September, One of Mr. Gibson's Out-Stations. Raining this
+morning; unable to proceed. Very unwell.
+
+Friday, 3rd September, Same Place. Feel better this morning. Started at
+8.30 for Parla. I am unable to make any attempt to recover the grey mare.
+Made Parla at 1 p.m.; camped at ten miles beyond. Distance to-day,
+twenty-five miles.
+
+Saturday, 4th September, Ten Miles beyond Parla. Started at 8.15 on an
+east bearing twenty-three miles to Rock Water. Camped. Very poor country.
+The granite range that Mr. Hack has laid down on his chart, I cannot
+find. I have come east from Parla, and ought to have crossed about the
+middle of it.
+
+Sunday, 5th September, Rock Water. I shall shape my course for the
+Freeling range, and see what that is made of. Started at 7.30 on a
+bearing of 84 degrees twenty-two miles. Rock water with plenty of grass.
+Gave the horses the rest of the day.
+
+Monday, 6th September, South of Mount Sturt. Started at 8.15 on a bearing
+of 84 degrees for twenty-five miles. Changed the bearing to 60 degrees
+for three miles to a fine plain covered with grass. Halted. No water.
+There are some high hills to the east-north-east, to which I have now
+changed my course, and which I conclude to be the Freeling range. Our
+journey to-day has been through very scrubby and sandy country,
+especially the last fifteen miles. At six miles south there is a high
+table-topped hill, which I think is granite. I intended going down to it,
+but the country, so far as I could see, was apparently not good, and,
+having crossed the tracks of some horses going towards it, and being very
+unwell myself, I thought it would be useless my going. Distance to-day,
+thirty-eight miles. No water.
+
+Tuesday, 7th September, Freeling Range. Started for the range at 8 on a
+bearing of 60 degrees. At eleven miles ascended the south-west hill of
+Freeling range, Mount Sturt bearing 266 degrees. Changed the bearing to
+96 degrees to a stony hill of granite. Found a little water, and halted
+for the remainder of the day. Distance, fifteen miles.
+
+Wednesday, 8th September, Freeling Range. Started at 7.30 for Separation
+Camp, bearing 72 degrees. Halted at thirty-three miles. The first
+twenty-five miles were mallee scrub with patches of grass; the last eight
+miles were over elevated table land, salt bush, and a little grass with a
+few patches of scrub, the soil being red, with a few fragments of quartz
+and ironstone on the surface. No water.
+
+Thursday, 9th September, Salt-Bush Country. Started at 9.15 on the same
+bearing, 72 degrees, fourteen miles; changed to 160 degrees (1.30 p.m.)
+two miles and a half; thence 80 degrees three miles to a small creek,
+where we can obtain water by digging in the sand. Camped. Distance
+to-day, twenty miles. Did not see Separation Camp; it is wrongly placed
+on the map.
+
+Friday, 10th September, Small Creek. Started at 9 on a bearing of 110
+degrees for Cooroona; at seventeen miles made Cooroona. Camped fifteen
+miles beyond.
+
+Saturday, 11th September. Arrived at Mr. Thompson's station, Mount Arden.
+
+I cannot conclude this narrative of my first journey, without
+acknowledging that it was with the advice and assistance of my friend Mr.
+Finke SOLELY, that I undertook this exploration of the country. I
+therefore look upon him as the original pioneer (if I may be allowed so
+to express myself) of all my subsequent expeditions, in which our friend
+Mr. Chambers afterwards joined.
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SECOND EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
+TORRENS). APRIL TO JULY, 1859.
+
+Saturday, 2nd April, 1859. Started from Mr. Glen's for St. A'Becket's
+Pool, where we camped. This water hole is a large one, and likely to last
+a long time. The country around is good--a large salt bush and grassy
+plain, with upwards of 300 cattle feeding upon it. Found the native
+cucumber growing.
+
+Sunday, 3rd April. Shortly after sunrise started from St. A'Becket's
+Pool, over low sand hills with large valleys between, well grassed, as
+described by Mr. Parry. Camped about two miles to the north-east of it,
+in a polyganum and grassy valley.
+
+Monday, 4th April. The saddles injuring our horses' backs, we must stop
+and repair them. Herrgott and I rode to Shamrock Pool. There is still
+water there. It may last about a month, but it is not permanent.
+
+Tuesday, 5th April. The horses could not be found before noon. One of
+them has lost a shoe, which will require to be put on. It is too late to
+start to-day for St. Francis' Ponds, the distance being thirty-two miles,
+and no water between. I deem it advisable to remain until to-morrow.
+
+Wednesday, 6th April. Started on a bearing of 330 degrees, and at six
+miles came upon a gum creek, with abundance of water, which I believe is
+permanent. For fifty yards on each side of the creek there is a great
+quantity of polyganum and other water-bushes. On the water there are a
+great many ducks, cranes, and water-hens. The water hole is upwards of
+three-quarters of a mile long; at the broadest place it is fifty yards in
+breadth. There are two trees marked "J.G. and W. Latitude, 30 degrees 4
+minutes 1 second." At one mile struck Mr. Parry's tracks; had a view of
+the country on the bearing that I intended to steer; saw that it would
+lead me into a very rough country, therefore followed his tracks to where
+he had camped. Camped south of Mount Delusion, without water. I do not
+doubt that there is water further down the creek to the eastward.
+
+Thursday, 7th April. Went to the top of Mount Delusion and took bearings.
+Had some difficulty in finding St. Francis' Ponds. Towards sunset we
+found them, and, to our great disappointment, quite dry; all the water
+had disappeared, except a little in one of the creeks, which was salter
+than the sea, and of no use to us. There seems to have been no rain here
+this season; I have searched the country all round, but can see no sign
+of water. I must return to-morrow morning to the creek that I passed
+yesterday. The horses have now been two nights without water; they appear
+to feel it very much.
+
+Friday, 8th April. Started back on a straight line, 6.40, for the gum
+creek, and arrived at 1.40 p.m., the horses being so much done up that I
+must give them two days' rest. I expect they will endure it better next
+time; they now know what it is to be without. In our course we crossed
+the middle of Mr. Parry's dry lake. It can be crossed at any time, for
+there are large courses of slate running through it in a north and south
+direction, level with the bed of the lake. The country around St.
+Francis' Ponds is as Mr. Parry describes it, with the exception of the
+water, which is gone. There is a great deal of Cooper's Creek grass
+growing in places. It is my intention to start with one man (as soon as
+the horses recover), and endeavour to find water nearer Mount North-west
+range. If I can find water east or west of St. Francis I shall then be
+able to make the Finniss Spring.
+
+Saturday, 9th April. Resting the horses.
+
+Sunday, 10th April. I intended to have gone to the north to-day to search
+for water, but I am so unwell from the effects of the water of this creek
+that I am unable to do so. I have been very ill all yesterday and all
+night, but I hope I shall be right to-morrow.
+
+Monday, 11th April. I am unable to go and search for water, being too
+weak and not able to ride. I have sent Herrgott and Muller to find St.
+Stephen's Ponds, and see if there is water; they are to return by the
+foot of the range and endeavour to find water there also. I have been
+very ill indeed during the night; I have had no sleep for the last two
+nights, and I am so weak that I am scarcely able to move.
+
+Tuesday, 12th April. Feel a little better this morning, but still very
+unwell.
+
+Wednesday, 13th April. I feel a good deal better. I hope by to-morrow I
+shall be all right again. Herrgott did not return until noon to-day. He
+reports that there is no water in St. Stephen's Ponds, which I expected;
+but he also states that he has found a batch of springs three miles on
+this side of the ponds, with abundance of water. They are twelve in
+number. I shall go to-morrow with the party to them. I am very glad he
+has found them. There will now be no difficulty in taking stock to
+Chambers Creek. From this camp to the springs will be the longest journey
+to be encountered in a season like this, in which so little rain has
+fallen. After rain has fallen there will be no difficulty at all. The
+native cucumber grows about here.
+
+Thursday, 14th April. Started at 8.10. The country travelled over was
+fine salt-bush country, but there was no water on our course, although we
+disturbed numerous pigeons and other birds. There are three table-topped
+hills to the east of the end of our north line; I think they are those
+within a short distance of which Major Warburton mentions that he found
+water. It would take me too much to the east of my course to examine them
+at present. I should have gone that way if Herrgott had not found those
+twelve springs, which we hope to make early to-morrow morning, and then
+proceed to the Finniss Springs. Camped on the east side of Decoy Hill,
+without water.
+
+Friday, 15th April, East Side of Decoy Hill. At daybreak despatched
+Campbell for the horses. At 7.30 he returned with only five, and said
+that he found them on the track, going back for the water from which we
+have come, and that the others had left the tracks and gone west towards
+the hills. I immediately despatched Muller on horseback to track and
+bring them back, and I sent the others by Herrgott to get water at the
+springs. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. They must have gone back.
+If they have, it will be the middle of the night before Muller can be
+here. It is vexing to be delayed thus with the brutes.
+
+Saturday, 16th April, Same Place. Muller and the horses have not yet
+come. I must go to the top of Decoy Hill to take some bearings. At 9.30
+returned to the camp, and found Muller had just returned, but no horses;
+he had followed upon their tracks until they crossed a stony hill, where
+he lost them, and, on purpose to find them again, he tied the mare to a
+bush; she broke loose, and would not allow him to catch her until she got
+to the water. It was then sundown; he remained there during the greater
+part of the night to see if the others would come in: they did not, and
+he therefore came up to inform me of what had occurred. He was without
+fire, blankets, or anything to eat. I did not pity him; he ought to have
+been more careful. I had several times warned him not to leave the mare
+insecurely tied, or she would be off. I gave him a fresh horse, and sent
+him and Campbell off to follow them up to wherever they go, and not to
+come back without them. It is most dreadfully annoying to be kept back in
+this manner, all through the carelessness of one man: he must have been
+quite close to them when the mare got away. They were short hobbled, and
+I had looked at them at half-past two in the morning, to see if they were
+all right, and found them feeding quietly, so that they could not have
+gone far. Sundown: no appearance of the horses. I feel much better
+to-day.
+
+Sunday, 17th April, Same Place. Still neither horses nor men. At 1.30
+they arrived; my men had gone over to the range, and had searched every
+creek, but without success. When found, the runaway animals were standing
+on a rise looking very miserable and at a loss what to do; they had
+skirted the hill as far down as Mount Delusion. The men took them to the
+last water, remained there through the night, and left for this place
+this morning. I will give them an hour's rest, and go to the springs
+to-night. Arrived at the springs at sundown; they are about nine miles
+from Decoy Hill.
+
+Monday, 18th April, Same Place. Resting horses. I went to the top of
+Mount Attraction, accompanied by Herrgott, to see what appearance the
+country had to the north of west. I observed a high red table-topped hill
+bearing 276 degrees from this point, for which I started in search of
+water. I had a good view of the country all round; it seems very low to
+the westward with low ranges and valleys between; plenty of salt bush and
+grass. There is copper with the ironstone on the top of Mount Attraction;
+native copper is adhering to the sides of the large pieces of ironstone.
+No water. Changed our course to north one mile and a half, thence to
+north-east five miles, thence to the springs, but could neither find
+water nor Major Warburton's tracks. To-day's journey forty-five miles.
+Arrived at the springs after dark.
+
+Tuesday, 19th April, Springs. To the south of our tracks yesterday there
+was the appearance of a gum creek, and I think it advisable to send
+Herrgott to-day to examine it for water. It would be a great advantage
+for stock going to the new country. Seen from a little distance these
+springs, at which we are camped, resemble a salt lagoon covered with
+salt, which however is not the case; it is the white quartz which gives
+them that appearance. There are seven small hillocks from which flow the
+springs; their height above the plain is about eight feet, and they are
+surrounded with a cake of saltpetre, but the water is very good indeed,
+and there is an unlimited supply. Herrgott has taken a sketch of them. He
+has returned from examining the gum creek, but can find no water. I must
+push on to-morrow for Finniss Springs, and trust to find water on the
+way.
+
+Wednesday, 20th April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 on a bearing of 275
+degrees over a stony, undulating country with plenty of grass and salt
+bush, but no water. At twenty miles we saw a smoke raised by the blacks
+to the south of our line, under the range. Camped at 5.15 under a low
+range about thirty feet high and very perpendicular, running nearly
+north-east and south-west. Distance to-day, thirty-three miles.
+
+Thursday, 21st April. Started at daybreak this morning. Same course. Cut
+Major Warburton's tracks at two miles, and changed to his course, 252
+degrees. At one mile, saw Finniss Springs a mile and a half to the south
+of us; went down to them and camped. There is an immense quantity of
+water flowing from them. I shall raise a large cone of stones upon the
+hill, which is very prominent and can be seen from a long distance.
+
+Friday, 22nd April, Finniss Springs. Went to the top of Hermit Hill,
+whence I obtained a very extensive view of Lake Torrens from north-west
+to north-east. Mount Hermit is surrounded by low hills, and in the far
+distance there seems to be rising ground. To the south are broken hills,
+the termination of the Mount North-west range. I shall examine that part
+of the country to-morrow. Between this and the lake (Eyre) to the north
+the country is very rough--broken cliffs, with sand; the good country
+does not extend more than three miles. The springs are very numerous all
+round this mount, and seem to drain into the lake; they give out an
+immense quantity of water, and there are many streams of water running
+from them. The ground is covered round about the springs with a cake of
+soda and saltpetre. I intended to have moved on to Gregory Creek this
+afternoon, but took the precaution to send my stockman to see in what
+state the water was. He reports the water in the creek to be quite salt,
+and many of the small fish dead; he also found some very perfect fossil
+shells, the mussel and oyster; they have now become a solid limestone;
+they were found in a large circular piece of limestone.
+
+Saturday, 23rd April, Finniss Springs. Started at 8 a.m. with Herrgott to
+examine the country south of this. Between this and the range the land is
+good in places. It is a little rotten and stony, but the range is a
+beautiful grass country to the very top. In the creeks the grass and
+other plants are growing luxuriantly, but we could find no water. I was
+unable to prosecute the search as far as I wished, in consequence of my
+horse having lost a shoe and becoming quite lame, which forced me to
+return to the camp, where we arrived at 9 p.m. The view from a high
+conical hill of white granite with black spots at the north-west point of
+the range, is very extensive, except to the south, which is limited. We
+saw smoke in one of the creeks to the east; but as I was anxious to
+examine the creek to the south-west, which we saw from the top of the
+conical hill, I did not go to where the smoke was rising, thinking that
+the blacks might only be hunting. I therefore crossed the hills to the
+creek over a good feeding country, timbered with box and gum-trees. We
+expected to find water in it, from the great number of birds of all
+descriptions that were flying about; we followed it down, but were
+unsuccessful, although the birds continued all the way. There must be
+water about the hills in some place. At sundown, my horse becoming very
+lame, I was forced reluctantly to return. The flow of the waters is
+northward into North Lake Torrens. On Monday I shall start again to the
+south-west, and leave the examination of the range to the south-east
+until my return.
+
+Sunday, 24th April, Finniss Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 33 minutes 30
+seconds. Rested.
+
+Monday, 25th April, Finniss Springs. As it seemed likely to rain, in
+which case the country would be very soft, I started at 9.30 on a bearing
+of 242 degrees for Chambers Creek. After three miles of gravelly soil and
+scanty feed we came to the banks of the two creeks passed by Major
+Warburton, splendidly grassed, but the water very salt. They flow into
+Lake Torrens. After leaving these creeks we had four miles of sand hills,
+very rich with feed, thence over some stony ground to the creek, all
+good; my course brought me about three-quarters of a mile to the south of
+the creek, which I expected. Distance from the springs to this water
+hole, two miles; this is a very long water hole, with plenty of water in
+it, and the feed good. We saw some fresh tracks of natives to-day, but
+did not meet with any of them.
+
+Tuesday, 26th April, Chambers Creek. I intend to remain here to-day to
+fix this place and examine the country about it. Latitude, 29 degrees 39
+minutes 9 seconds. I sent Campbell (my stockman) in one direction, and
+Muller (the botanist) in another; they report quantities of water, also a
+great deal of salt water, with plenty of salt for the use of stations,
+with abundance of feed. The stockman saw numerous fresh tracks, but did
+not see any natives. The fires were still burning. Muller saw an old man,
+a woman, and a child. They were very much frightened, and when he
+approached, they called out "Pompoy!" and moved their hands for him not
+to come any nearer. As they seemed quite unwilling to hold any
+conversation, he left them.
+
+Wednesday, 27th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise this morning,
+accompanied by my botanist. After travelling thirty miles in a fruitless
+search for water, we camped upon a large stony plain with plenty of
+vegetation. The horses were very much tired by reason of the heavy sand.
+We could see no sign of Lake Torrens. Latitude, 29 degrees 53 minutes 58
+seconds.
+
+Thursday, 28th April, Large Stony Plain. Saddled by break of day. Changed
+my course to see if the water is still at Yarra Wirta. In order to avoid
+the heavy sand hills, which will not do for the horses if there is no
+water, I steered for the creek, struck it a little to the north of where
+I crossed it on my former expedition, and followed it down. Passed my
+former encampment, and found no water there, but on following it down to
+where I considered it permanent, I found water still there. I shall give
+the horses the afternoon to recruit, and start early in the morning.
+Distance to-day, twenty-three miles.
+
+Friday, 29th April, Chambers Creek. Started at sunrise for about a mile
+to that part of the north shore of the lake opposite to where the Yarra
+Wirta empties itself into it. The country close to the lake is very stony
+and scanty of feed; there is some water in it, but it is very salt; a few
+salt creeks run into it, but no great body of water. I ascended a hill
+for which I had been steering, and obtained an observation of the sun and
+bearings. Latitude, 30 degrees 8 minutes 11 seconds. There is no
+appearance of any lake between this point and Mount Deception; it appears
+to be a stony plain with some ridges of sand hills. This hill, which I
+have named Mount Polly, for distinction, is the easternmost of the
+flat-topped hills on the north side of the lake, and is a spur from the
+Stuart range. It is very stony, and there is grass nearly to the top; it
+is very level, and extends for six miles in a north-westerly direction. I
+saw that there was little prospect of my obtaining water to-night; and
+knowing that the natives had been seen within a few miles of the camp, I
+felt anxious about the safety of my party. I determined to proceed
+towards the camp on a north-westerly course. Arrived at the creek at
+11.30 p.m. and found all right; the natives had paid them a visit, as I
+anticipated, but my people could get no information from them. They were
+six in number; one was very forward, wishing to examine everything. I had
+left orders that, if they came, they were not to be allowed to come near
+the camp, but were to be met a little distance from it. They remained for
+some time, and then stole off one by one without being perceived, and
+were out of sight in a moment. The one that remained to the last in his
+flight did not forget to carry along with him a piece of blanket that had
+been a saddle-cloth, and which happened to be lying outside the camp.
+
+Saturday, 30th April, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and my stockman to
+build a cone of stones upon the highest of the three table-topped hills,
+for the base line of the survey. They are three remarkable hills close
+together; two only can be seen coming from the south and from the
+north-east. Latitude, 29 degrees 40 minutes 27 seconds. From the hill the
+men saw a number of native fires smoking to the westward on the creek,
+but have not seen any natives.
+
+Sunday, 1st May, Chambers Creek. This morning we had a heavy dew. Went to
+the top of the three table-tops, and had a fine view of Mount Hamilton
+and the lagoon where the springs are, and the other hills; they are the
+same hills that I saw on my north-west course, when on my last journey.
+
+Monday, 2nd May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller and Campbell to build a cone
+of stones on Mount Strangways, which I have fixed as a south point of my
+base line. The mean of all the observations that I have got to-day makes
+the latitude to be 29 degrees 39 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd May, Chambers Creek. Spent the day examining the
+neighbourhood for water, and in taking numerous bearings.
+
+Wednesday, 4th May, Chambers Creek. I intend to move to-day to the large
+water holes westward, where I first struck the creek. The horses having
+strayed a long way off this morning, made it 11 o'clock before we got a
+start. About four miles from last night's camp the chain of large water
+holes commences, and continues beyond to-night's camp. They are indeed
+most splendid water holes--not holes, but very long ponds; they are
+nearly one continuous sheet of water, and the scenery is beautiful. I am
+sorry I did not name it a river in my former journal. I must bring my
+survey up to this night's camp to-morrow. It is very cloudy to-night,
+with a strong wind from the south-west, from which quarter the clouds are
+coming. The country is a little stony, but well grassed.
+
+Thursday, 5th May, Chambers Creek. Moved the camp to a better situation.
+Ascended a hill, got some bearings to fix it, and built a cone of stones
+upon it. I have had the creek, which joins this, run up for three miles
+to the sources to-day. There is no more permanent water. There are an
+immense number of small fish in the ponds, and on the banks there is a
+shrub growing that tastes and smells like cinnamon; we happened to stir
+up the sugar in a pannikin of tea with a small twig of the bush, and it
+left quite the flavour of it in the tea. I have had Herrgott to take
+sketches of some of the ponds, also of the fish and other remarkable
+things. It has been rather cloudy to-day, and I could not depend upon my
+observations. There are numerous tracks of natives about, but we have not
+seen any of them; we have also found some new plants in the creek.
+
+Friday, 6th May, Chambers Creek. Moved further up the creek on the south
+side to the last water that we knew of. It is a hole of rain water, very
+large, and will last a long time, being well sheltered by gum-trees and
+other shrubs.
+
+Saturday, 7th May, Chambers Creek. Sent Muller to see if there is any
+more water to the west, and went myself to the top of a small hill, and
+built a cone of stones to connect this point with the last point. Muller
+returned after dark, and reported that there was no more permanent water.
+I shall start to the north to-morrow.
+
+Sunday, 8th May, Chambers Creek. Started to the north over the range,
+which is rather difficult to get the horses up and down. On the top it is
+very stony, with salt bush and scanty grass. Crossed the Margaret and a
+salt creek, in which there is water, some of which is salt and some
+brackish, but not unfit for the use of cattle. There is abundance of feed
+all round. We arrived at Hamilton Springs a little before sundown.
+Distance, twenty-one miles.
+
+Monday, 9th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require to be shod
+to-day. I shall also require to build a cone of stones upon Mount
+Hamilton (the one built by Major Warburton having fallen down), and get
+an observation of the same. Latitude, 29 degrees 27 minutes 37 seconds.
+The springs are certainly very remarkable, and Major Warburton gives a
+very good description of them.
+
+Tuesday, 10th May, Mount Hamilton. Started for the Beresford Springs.
+Arrived at Mount Hugh at 11 o'clock, seven miles distant from Mount
+Hamilton, and, as I anticipated, found a number of splendid springs,
+giving out a fine stream of water, not the least brackish. The hill from
+which this stream issues is one hundred feet above the level of the
+plain, the water coming from the very top. My horse got bogged on the
+top, and I had some difficulty in getting him out, but I did so at last
+without injuring him. Started from the mount at 12.30, and, after three
+miles and a half, arrived at Beresford Springs. The Beresford Springs are
+nothing in comparison to the others; there are only two that are running,
+but they are very good. The country travelled over to-day has been very
+well grassed, with salt bush; take it altogether I have not seen better
+runs in the colony, and in the driest summer the furthest distance from
+water will not be above five miles at the most, but the feed is so
+abundant that they would not require to go so far. On that account they
+will feed double and treble the number of stock that the runs down the
+country do. At two miles on this side of the Hugh Springs discovered
+another batch of springs with plenty of water running from them; there
+are about eight or nine of them very good; those springs have not been
+visited by Major Warburton. We examined all round, but could find no
+tracks. I have named them the Elizabeth Springs. There is enough water
+running to drive a flour-mill in two or three places. They are really
+remarkable springs--such a height above the level of the plain; I saw
+them from a hill on Chambers Creek (the Twins). From whence do they
+derive their supply of water, to cause them to rise to such a height? It
+must be from some high ranges to the north-west, or a large body of fresh
+water lying on elevated ground. This is another strange feature of the
+mysterious interior of Australia. I shall remain here until after 12
+to-morrow, to get an observation of the sun to fix this hill. I shall
+return to Mount Hamilton, and proceed to examine the country west of
+North Lake Torrens, for one of the east runs, which will complete my
+survey of them, and I shall despatch thence a messenger to Oratunga.
+
+Wednesday, 11th May, Elizabeth Springs. Latitude, 29 degrees 17 minutes
+43 seconds. I omitted to mention yesterday that, two miles before we
+reached Beresford Hill, we crossed Pasley Ponds and saw one of the
+Major's camps. The water is brackish, but not bad. The white deposit
+round these springs, and also round the Elizabeth, is soda. In returning,
+I examined the Coward Springs; the water is good, and running. There is a
+plentiful supply. It was dark when I arrived at Mount Hamilton. Saw four
+natives to-day, but they gave us a wide berth; they do not like to come
+near us.
+
+Thursday, 12th May, Mount Hamilton. Some of the horses require shoeing,
+and I wish to get another observation of the sun. I shall remain here
+to-day, and examine the country to the north-east. About seven miles in
+that direction is the salt creek of Major Warburton. The country is of a
+light sandy soil covered with grass.
+
+Friday, May 13th, Mount Hamilton. Started to the eastward, to complete
+the survey of the runs, and see if there are any more springs. To the
+south of east, about four miles, we discovered four springs not seen by
+the Major; there is a plentiful supply of water, and would be more if
+they were opened. One is choked up with reeds, but the other two are
+running. Saw some natives; they seemed frightened at first, but were
+induced to come close up: they were very much amused at our equipments.
+Two had seen or heard of whites before; they knew the name of horse, but
+no more; they call water courie, and some of their words very much
+resemble those of the natives in Port Lincoln. We could make nothing of
+them--they repeat every word of the question we ask them. They followed
+us over to the Margaret, and took us to some fresh-water springs in the
+creek, the water of which is very good. There is a quantity of reeds
+growing round them, also tea-tree. From this we followed the creek to the
+north, thence north-east towards the lake, but the water being too
+brackish, I returned to the springs, the natives walking with us all the
+time; they seemed very inoffensive. In following down the creek, another
+native joined us from the creek, carrying a net in which were some small
+fish; the net was a hoop one, well made.
+
+Saturday, May 14th, The Margaret Creek. The morning very cloudy; every
+appearance of rain. Saddled and proceeded in search of Emerald Spring, on
+a north course. At seven miles made Mr. Babbage's old camp on a sand
+hill. Camped a little way from it. I did not know the position of the
+spring, but Herrgott informed me that it was three miles to the west. It
+commenced raining before we started, has rained all the way up, and is
+still doing so; it is a very light rain, but the wind is very strong and
+cold from the south-west. Intended to have brought up my plan, but the
+rain and wind prevent me.
+
+Sunday, 15th May, Mr. Babbage's Old Camp. It cleared off during the
+night, but the clouds have come up again this morning and look very
+threatening. Sent Herrgott to find the spring. The wind is still from the
+same quarter, and too strong for me to do anything to the plan, which is
+a great annoyance. I will finish the survey of the runs from this place,
+and send Campbell back to Oratunga with the plan. Herrgott did not return
+until after sundown: he could not find the spring.
+
+Monday, 16th May, Same Place. Sent Muller to the west; he returned at 10
+o'clock, having found the spring about two miles and a half distant from
+the camp; it is not hot, but a little warmer than milk-warm. There is a
+good stream running from it, and the water is excellent; to me it has a
+mineral taste, very good. There were some small fish lying dead on the
+bank, near the mouth; they seemed to have been left there by the retiring
+of the flood--they were quite dried up. I intended to have taken some
+with me, but they were too dry--nothing but skin and bone. The creek
+empties itself into the lake, about a mile north from where Chambers
+Creek goes into it.
+
+Tuesday, 17th May, Same Place. Again very cloudy, with a little rain.
+Busy finishing the survey. Could not obtain an observation of the sun.
+Wind still very strong.
+
+Wednesday, 18th May, Same Place. Weather clearing up. Engaged with
+survey.
+
+Thursday, 19th May, Same Place. Finishing tracings, etc.
+
+Friday, 20th May, Same Place. At sunrise started Campbell for Oratunga
+with tracings, letter, etc., with orders to proceed to Finniss Springs,
+thence to Herrgott Springs, thence to St. A'Becket's Pool, thence to
+Mount Glenns, thence to Mount Stuart, and thence to Oratunga, taking six
+days to perform the journey. Preparing my other plans for a start
+to-morrow for the north-west, to see what the Davenport range is.
+Latitude, 29 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 21st May, Same Place. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 310
+degrees for the Davenport range. At twenty-two miles changed our course
+to examine a large lagoon to the south-west of us, bearing 238 degrees.
+At two miles reached the lagoon, which we examined for springs, but found
+none. I suppose it receives Major Warburton's salt creek. It is caked
+with a crust of salt, and is dry; it is seven miles long by three broad,
+running north-west and south-west. On the south-west side it is bounded
+by steep cliffs, and high sand hills on the top. Changed to 310 degrees,
+our original course. Came upon some rain water at four miles, and camped
+for the night. Distance to-day, twenty-eight miles.
+
+Sunday, 22nd May, Rain Water. Sent Herrgott to examine the south-west
+side of the lagoon which we passed last night, with orders to overtake me
+by 11.30, so that I may get an observation of the sun at noon. The horses
+having strayed some distance during the night, our start was delayed
+until 9.15. Started on the same bearing as yesterday, 310 degrees.
+Stopped at 11.20 for Herrgott to come with the instruments, but he did
+not come up until 1.15, so that I lost my observation. I had told him, if
+there was no appearance of springs not to go far, but to return
+immediately; instead of which he went round the lagoon. Camped on a stony
+rise, with a little wood. Distance to-day, twenty-one miles.
+
+Monday, 23rd May, Stony Rise. Started towards the Davenport range. The
+sand hills again commenced with beautiful feed upon them--low, with broad
+valleys; they continued for five miles, when the stony plain again
+commenced. The highest part of the range seems to be at the north-eastern
+point, which has the appearance of a detached hill. At three miles and a
+quarter from the last of the sand hills we saw the Douglas, and changed
+our bearing to 328 degrees 30 minutes. At one mile and a quarter struck
+the creek, but found no water in it. There were a number of gums, but not
+very large, also plenty of myalls there. The bed of the creek is bad, and
+will not retain water. We followed it down for three miles to see if
+there was water; but no sign of it, the creek still continuing broad and
+sandy. I was obliged to return to where I struck it, because it was
+nearly sundown, and I had found a little rain water about a mile to the
+south, which would do for the horses in the morning.
+
+Tuesday, 24th May, The Douglas. Herrgott's horse in want of shoes. Could
+not get a start until late. Found a little more rain water in a clay-pan.
+If I can find no water near the range, I shall have to fall back upon
+Strangway Springs. I am anxious to see what is on the other side of the
+range, or I would run this creek down. There are numerous tracks of
+natives about the creek; we have also seen three fires three or four days
+old. Latitude, 28 degrees 45 minutes 4 seconds. Started at 12.30 on a
+bearing of 313 degrees for the highest point of the range east, over
+stony table land. The creek runs in the same direction for four miles, it
+then turns to the westward, and is lost sight of among some hills. At ten
+miles struck a stony box-tree creek; its bed was sand and gravel, but no
+water. At 11.30 descended from the table land, and camped at a gum creek
+at sundown; the bed the same as the last, and no water. There were
+numerous native foot-tracks here also. I am sorry I could not reach the
+range to-night, but we had some very bad ground to travel over, and no
+water.
+
+Wednesday, 25th May, Dry Gum Creek. Examined the creek for water, but
+found none. Started on the same course as yesterday, 313 degrees, for the
+north-east highest point, which I suppose to be the Mount Margaret of
+Major Warburton. Native tracks seen in the creek. There may be water some
+distance down the creek, but here it is too sandy to retain it. At four
+miles struck another gum creek in turning round the south side of the
+range; it was of the same description as the others, too sandy to hold
+water. Proceeded towards the highest point of the range, and obtained an
+observation of the sun within a mile and a half of the mount. Left the
+horses in charge of Muller and ascended the mount, which was very
+difficult; it took us an hour to go up, and three-quarters of an hour to
+come down. The hill is composed of a greenish slate, lying horizontally
+at the base, and courses of quartz and granite, with ironstone; but I can
+see nothing of Major Warburton's quartz cliffs; they must be more to the
+south-west. The range has a very peculiar appearance from a short
+distance off; it seems to be an immense number of rugged conical hills
+all thrown together. From the top, the view to the north-west was hidden
+by a higher point of the range. To the north-north-west there is another
+range, about twenty miles distant, apparently higher than this, running
+south-west and north-east. To the north is another far-distant range; to
+the east, broken hill and stony plain, with a number of clay-pans. A
+number of creeks run to the eastward from this range; they become gum
+creeks further down, but in and close to the range they have myall
+bushes, and other shrubs. No water to be obtained in this range. Changed
+my course to the north-east to examine a white clay-pan that I thought
+might contain some fresh water. At three miles came upon it, and was very
+much disappointed to find it salt. This being the second day that the
+horses have been without water, I must give up the search for springs and
+return to one mile south of the Douglas, where we had found a little rain
+water. It being nearly sundown, I made for the last large gum creek,
+striking it lower down, also cutting the other creeks between, hoping to
+find water in some, but there was none. Made the large gum creek at 10
+o'clock. Camped for the night. Horses very much done up, in consequence
+of the ground that we have been travelling over being so rotten and
+stony. The country is not good, nor the range; but at three miles to the
+east it becomes less stony and better grassed. No water.
+
+Thursday, 26th May, Large Gum Creek. Started at daylight for beyond the
+Douglas. At 3 o'clock arrived at water. Horses so much done up that I
+shall require to give them two days' rest, if the water will hold so
+long, and then I must return to the Strangway Springs, as we know that to
+be permanent water. There are some heavy clouds coming up from the
+south-west, which I hope will bring rain.
+
+Friday, 27th May, The Douglas. Rain all gone after a slight shower, which
+did not assist me much. Very sorry for it.
+
+Saturday, 28th May, The Douglas. Horses looking better this morning, so I
+will give them this day also. I have sent Muller down the creek to the
+eastward, to see if there is any water in it. I should have gone again
+to-day to the Davenport range, to see if I could find the quartz reefs by
+striking it more to the south-west, but it would be too much for the
+horses, which are my mainstay, and this water will not last longer than
+to-day; it is going very fast. I do wish to goodness it would rain, for I
+do hate going back. Muller returned at sundown. He has been about twelve
+miles down the creek, but can find no water. It still continued sandy. He
+shot three new parrots.
+
+Sunday, 29th May, The Douglas. Not being satisfied with my hurried
+examination of the range, I shall make another attempt to-day, and
+endeavour to find water. If we do not succeed we must fall back upon the
+springs. Started on a course of west-north-west. Crossed the Douglas
+three times. It turned to the south-west, but I continued my course, over
+low hills and valleys, with plenty of feed, with quartz, ironstone, and
+granite. At fifteen miles changed a little more to the north towards a
+rise. The country becomes very broken and rough, but still plenty of
+grass. At twenty miles crossed the upper part of the gum creek that I
+camped on on the 25th instant. The banks are nearly perpendicular cliffs
+of slate. Followed it up for two miles, but no water. I continued my
+course for the rising ground. At six miles I found that I was getting
+upon high table land; so, as the sun was nearly down, I returned to the
+creek, where there is some green feed for the horses, as they will be
+without water to-night. It was after sundown before I reached the creek
+and camped. I have named this creek Davenport Creek, after the Honourable
+Mr. Davenport, M.L.C.
+
+Monday, 30th May, Davenport Creek. Started at sunrise determined to
+follow down the creek, for I think there must be water somewhere before
+it enters the plain. The flow is to the east. At five miles came upon a
+beautiful spring in the bed of the creek, for which I am truly thankful.
+I have named this The Spring of Hope. It is a little brackish, not from
+salt, but soda, and runs a good stream of water. I have lived upon far
+worse water than this: to me it is of the utmost importance, and keeps my
+retreat open. I can go from here to Adelaide at any time of the year, and
+in any sort of season. Camped for the rest of the day. Latitude, 28
+degrees 33 minutes 34 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 31st May, The Spring of Hope. Shoeing horses, and repairing
+various things.
+
+Wednesday, 1st June, The Spring of Hope. Not being satisfied with my
+hurried view of the salt clay-pan that I visited on the 25th ultimo, I
+have sent Muller to-day to examine it for springs, before I proceed to
+the north-west. On a further examination of this water, I find a very
+large portion of magnesia in it, and also salt, but very little. Muller
+has returned, having been down the creek, and, as I expected, has found a
+small spring of very good water on the banks of the salt creek. I expect
+there will be others. I shall move down there to-morrow and examine it. I
+expect we have fallen upon the line of springs again, which I hope will
+continue towards the north. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long
+time.
+
+Thursday, 2nd June, The Spring of Hope. Started at 9 o'clock for the
+springs, and arrived there in the afternoon. Travelled over a stony but
+very good feeding country, which became better as we approached the
+springs. There is a creek with a large water hole, and around the small
+hills are numerous springs. On the banks of the creek and round the
+springs an immense quantity of rushes, bulrushes, and other water-plants
+are growing. The quantity of land they cover is very great, amounting to
+several square miles. Some of the springs are choked up, others are
+running, though not so active as those further to the south. Round about
+them there is a thin crust of saltpetre, magnesia, and salt. The water of
+these springs is very good, but that of the creek is a little brackish,
+but will do very well for cattle. Some of the holes in the creek are
+rather salt. There is enough of good water for the largest station in the
+colony. Round the small hill, where I am now camped, there are twelve
+springs, and the water is first-rate. I have named them Hawker Springs,
+after G.C. Hawker, Esquire, M.L.A.* (* Now the Honourable G.C. Hawker,
+Speaker of the House of Assembly at Adelaide.) The hills are composed of
+slate, mica, quartz (resembling those of the gold country), and
+ironstone. Latitude, 28 degrees 24 minutes 17 seconds. One of the horses
+seems to be very unwell to-day; he has endeavoured to lie down two or
+three times during the journey, but I hope he will be better by the
+morning.
+
+Friday, 3rd June, Hawker Springs. I find that the horse is too unwell to
+proceed. I shall give him another day, for fear I should lose him
+altogether. I sent Muller to see if there are any springs round the hill
+about six miles to the east. He states that the creek flows past that
+hill, and on towards other hills of the same kind. The springs continue
+to within half a mile of the hill, where he found two large springs
+running over, covered with long reeds. I do not doubt but that they still
+continue on towards the lake, (wherever that may be), which I intend to
+examine on my return.
+
+Saturday, 4th June, Hawker Springs. This morning the horse does not look
+much better, but still I must push on. Started at 8 towards the highest
+point of the next range. At one mile struck a gum creek coming from the
+Davenport range, and running to the north of east; the bed sandy and
+grassy. At four miles another gum creek of the same description, with the
+gum-trees stunted. At eight miles and a half struck three creeks joining
+at about a quarter of a mile to the east; the centre one is gum, and the
+other two myall. At twelve miles changed my course to 29 degrees to
+examine three dark-coloured hills, where I think there will be springs.
+At a mile and a quarter came upon a small batch of springs round the
+north side of the hills in a broad grassy valley, with plenty of good
+water. Changed my course again to 318 degrees towards the highest point
+of the range. At one mile a myall and gum creek; at three miles another
+gum creek; at seven miles a very large and broad gum creek, spread out
+into numerous channels. I have not the least doubt but there is water
+above and below, judging from the number of tracks of natives and emus
+that have been up and down the creek. As this is the largest creek that I
+have passed, and is likely to become as good as Chambers Creek, which it
+very much resembles, I have called it The Blyth, after the Honourable
+Arthur Blyth. I have named the range to the east The Hanson Range, after
+the Honourable R.D. Hanson. At nine miles and a half attained the highest
+point of the range, and built a cone of stones thereon, and have named it
+Mount Younghusband, after the Honourable William Younghusband. From it I
+had a good view of the surrounding country, which seems to be plentifully
+supplied with springs. To the north-west is another isolated range like
+this; I should think it is about seven hundred feet high. I have named it
+Mount Kingston, after the Honourable G.S. Kingston, Speaker of the House
+of Assembly. To the north the broken ranges continue, and in the distance
+there is a long flat-topped range, broken in some places. It seems to be
+closing upon my course on the last bearing. I cannot judge of the
+distance, the mirage being so great. Descended from the mount, and
+proceeded on a bearing of 336 degrees towards a spring that I saw from
+the top. As we were rounding the mount to the east, we found eight
+springs before we halted, in a distance of three miles; some were
+running, and others were choked up, but soft and boggy. At dark arrived
+at another batch of springs--not those that I intended going to--they are
+on the banks of a small creek, close to and coming from the range; they
+are not so active as the others, and taste a little brackish; they are
+coated with soda, saltpetre, and salt. The horse seems to be very ill; he
+has again attempted to lie down two or three times. I cannot imagine what
+is the matter with him.
+
+Sunday, 5th June, Mount Younghusband. I must remain where I am to-day;
+the horse is so bad that he cannot proceed; he neither eats nor drinks. I
+have sent Muller to the west side of the mount to see the extent of the
+springs; they are on the banks of a creek which has brackish water in it,
+large and deep, and a great quantity of rushes. The water comes from the
+limestone banks which are covered with soda. He rode round the mount: it
+is all the same, and the feed is splendid right to the top of the mount.
+It is a wonderful country, scarcely to be believed. I have had one of the
+springs opened to-day, and the water to-night tastes excellent; it could
+not be better. Native tracks about; I am surprised we see none of them;
+we are passing old fires constantly. Latitude, 28 degrees 1 minute 32
+seconds.
+
+Monday, 6th June, Mount Younghusband. The horses being some distance off,
+and my horse requiring a shoe, I was unable to make a start until 10
+o'clock, on a bearing of 307 degrees 45 minutes, passing Mount Kingston
+on the south-west side. At three-quarters of a mile came upon the springs
+that I intended to have camped at on Saturday night: they are flowing in
+a stream strong enough to supply any number of cattle. I named them The
+Barrow Springs, after J.U. Barrow, Esquire, M.L.A. At four miles and a
+half struck a large broad valley, in which are the largest springs I have
+yet seen. The flow of water from them is immense, coming in numerous
+streams, and the country around is beautiful. I have named these The
+Freeling Springs, after the Honourable Major Freeling, M.L.C. After
+leaving the springs I ascended a rough stony hill, to have a view of
+them, but I could not see them all, their extent is so great. They extend
+to under the Kingston range, and how much further I do not know. From
+this point I changed my course to 322 degrees. I can just see the top of
+a distant range, for which I will go on that bearing. At one mile and a
+half crossed a broad gum salt creek, coming from the west, with a
+quantity of salt water in it. I have named this Peake Creek, after C.J.
+Peake, Esquire, M.L.A. After crossing this, we travelled over low rises
+with quartz, ironstone, and slate; the quartz predominating. Herrgott and
+Muller, who have both been long in the Victoria gold diggings, say that
+they have not seen any place that resembles those diggings so much as
+this does. The country seems as if it were covered with snow, from the
+quantity of quartz. At eleven miles passed a brackish water creek and
+salt lagoon; searched for springs but could find none, although reeds and
+rushes abound, but no water on the surface. I thence proceeded
+three-quarters of a mile, and struck a gum creek with a number of
+channels and very long water holes, but the water is brackish; it might
+do for cattle. This I have named The Neale, after J.B. Neale, Esquire,
+M.L.A. I think by following it down, there will be a large quantity of
+water, and good, and that it will become a very important creek. No
+person could wish for a better country for feed than that we have passed
+over to-day; it resembles the country about Chambers Creek.
+
+Tuesday, 7th June, The Neale. At 8 o'clock started on a bearing of 180
+degrees for the northernmost of the isolated hills, to see if there are
+springs round it. At four miles ascended it, but could see no springs.
+This I have named Mount Harvey, after J. Harvey, Esquire, M.L.A. from
+Mount Kingston it bears 47 degrees 45 minutes. Thence I started for the
+other mount, which I have named Mount Dutton, after the Honourable F.T.
+Dutton; four miles and a half to the top. The Hanson range is closing
+upon my course, and I think to-morrow's journey will cut it. On the north
+side are a few springs, some of them a little brackish, and some very
+good. We cleared out one, and found it very good. Here I camped for the
+night. From south-west to north-west it seems to be an immense plain,
+stony on the surface, with salt bush and grass. Mount Dutton is well
+grassed to the top; it is composed of the same rock as the others.
+
+Wednesday, 8th June, Mount Dutton. at 9.15 started on a course of 310
+degrees. At three-quarters of a mile passed another batch of springs,
+some of them brackish, and some very good indeed. Leaving them we passed
+over a good feeding country, crossing several gum and myall creeks, one
+with polyganum, all coming from Hanson range and flowing into the Neale.
+At nine miles crossed the top of Hanson range. From it I could see, about
+fifteen miles to the west of north, a high point of this range, which I
+have named Mount O'Halloran (after the Honourable Major O'Halloran), on
+the west side of which there appears to be a large creek coming from the
+north-west. We then proceeded on a course of 324 degrees towards Mount
+O'Halloran. At four miles and a half struck a large gum creek coming from
+the range and running for about four miles north-west on our course;
+examined it for water, but found none. It divides itself into numerous
+channels, and when full must retain a large quantity of water for a long
+time. The gum-trees are large and numerous, and numbers of pigeons
+frequent its banks. At a mile further came upon some rain water in a
+stony flat, where we camped for the night between low sand rises covered
+with grass.
+
+Thursday, 9th June, Stony Flat. This country must be examined today for
+springs. I have therefore sent Muller down the creek to search that,
+whilst I must remain and get an observation of the sun. My party is far
+too small to examine the country well. I cannot go myself and leave the
+camp with the provisions to one man; the natives might attack him, and
+destroy the lot, there seem to be a great many tracks about. Three
+o'clock. Muller has returned; he has run the creek down until it joined
+another very large gum creek coming from the north-west--the one that I
+saw from the top of the range. The gum-trees were large; from one of them
+the natives had cut a large sheet of bark, evidently for a canoe. He also
+saw two large water holes, one hundred yards wide and a quarter of a mile
+long, with very high and steep banks. It seems to be the same creek as
+the Neale. Can it be Cooper's Creek? the country very much resembles it.
+My course will strike it more to the north-west to-morrow.
+
+Friday, 10th June, Same Place. I have been very unwell during the night
+with cramp in the stomach, but hope I shall get better as I go on.
+Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 32 degrees 4 minutes. At four miles
+went to the top of Mount O'Halloran. The creek is about three miles to
+the west; it breaks through the Hanson range. Changed my course to 317
+degrees to get away from the stones, which are very rough close to the
+hill. At six miles changed my course to 270 degrees to examine an
+isolated hill for springs, but found none. The creek winds round this
+hill, and spreads out into numerous channels, covering a space of two
+miles; but there is no water here, nor for three miles further up the
+creek. We have, however, found some rain water; and, as I feel so unwell
+that I am unable to ride, I have camped here for the night, and sent
+Muller to examine the creek for water. He has been unsuccessful.
+
+Saturday, 11th June, Rain Water. I feel a little better this morning.
+Started at 9.20 on a bearing of 317 degrees. Crossed the creek, which is
+about a mile wide. For five miles it ran parallel to my course, and then
+turned more to the west. There is a beautiful plain along the bank, about
+three miles wide, and completely covered with grass. At nine miles and a
+half, on a small rise, changed my course to 318 degrees 30 minutes, to a
+distant hill. Travelled for nine miles and a half over another large and
+well-grassed plain of the same description; thence over some low stony
+hills to a myall flat, the soil beautiful, of a red colour, covered with
+grass; after four miles it became sandy. Camped for the night, after
+having gone thirty-one miles. The country of to-day surpasses all that I
+have yet travelled over for the abundance of feed. We have passed a
+number of native tracks, but only one or two are fresh. We have found no
+water to-day, except some little rain water, which is nearly all mud. I
+have no doubt but there is plenty towards the east.
+
+Sunday, 12th June, Myall Flat. I feel still very unwell. We are now come
+to our last set of shoes for the horses, and, having experienced the
+misery of being without them in my previous journey, I am, though with
+great reluctance, forced to turn back. My party is also too small to make
+a proper examination of such splendid country. Started back, keeping more
+to the east to examine a high hill in search of water. If I can find
+water, I shall endeavour to reach the north boundary. At 11.40 arrived at
+the hill. Latitude, 27 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. Can see no
+appearance of water, although the country seems good all round. Ten
+degrees to the east of north is a large dark-coloured hill, which I saw
+from last night's camp, from fifteen to twenty miles distant. I should
+like to go to it, but can find no water. I have named it Mount Browne,
+after Mr. J.H. Browne, of Port Gawler, my companion in Captain Sturt's
+expedition. I dare not risk the horses another night without water, the
+grass is so very dry; had there been green grass, I would not have
+hesitated a moment. Turned towards the Neale by a different course to try
+and find water; was unsuccessful until within an hour of sundown, when we
+struck some muddy water. As I expected, the horses were very thirsty and
+devoured the lot. Reached the creek after dark.
+
+Monday, 13th June, The Neale. Found some rain water on the bank of the
+creek, and, two of the horses requiring shoes, I stopped for the day. At
+noon sent Muller up the creek to see if he could find any water holes,
+but he saw none. At six miles another creek coming from the south-west
+joins this. I am afraid I shall not have enough shoes to carry me into
+the settled districts. The creek does not seem to have been running for a
+number of years. The water has, some time or other, been ten feet high.
+The breadth of the plain where the channels flow is a mile and a half,
+and the quantity of water must be immense. It drains a very large extent
+of country. After examining the country during the next two or three
+days, I shall endeavour to follow this creek down, and learn where it
+empties itself.
+
+Tuesday, 14th June, The Neale. Started at 9 o'clock. Running the creek
+down. At eight miles crossed another branch of the creek coming from the
+south of west. We found no water. At twelve miles changed my bearing to
+south. At three miles and a half camped at the two water holes that
+Muller found when I sent him to examine the creek on the 9th instant. I
+can not with certainty say they are permanent, there are neither reeds
+nor rushes round them; they are very large and very deep, and, when
+filled with rain, must hold a large quantity of water for a long time.
+There are ducks upon them. The water does not taste like rain water,
+which leads me to think that it may be permanent and supplied by springs
+from below.
+
+Wednesday, 15th June, Water Holes found by Muller on the 9th. Started at
+9.15 a.m. Following the creek down. As we approached Hanson range, where
+it broke through, we came upon two nice water holes with ducks upon them.
+They are long, wide, and deep, with clay banks, and about three feet of
+water in the middle. There are no reeds nor rushes round them, and it is
+doubtful whether they are permanent. At seven miles and a half the creek
+winds a little more to the west. Shortly afterwards we struck (in the
+gap) two very long and large water holes a quarter of a mile long, and
+between forty and fifty yards wide, and very deep. These I may safely say
+are permanent. After getting through the range, the creek spreads out
+over a large plain in numerous courses, bearing towards the south-east.
+At four miles and a half changed my course. At six miles, going more to
+the east, changed again, and at eight miles camped for the night, without
+water. We have found no water since leaving the last water hole, although
+I do not doubt of there being some. It would have taken us too long a
+time to examine it more than I have done, my party being so small. We
+have passed several winter worleys of the natives, built with mud in the
+shape of a large beehive, with a small hole as the entrance. Numerous
+tracks all about the creek, but we see no natives. We are now approaching
+the spring country again.
+
+Thursday, 16th June, The Neale. Started at 11.15. Still following the
+creek, which continues to spread widely over the plain. At five miles I
+observed some white patches of ground on the south-west side of Mount
+Dutton, resembling a batch of springs. I changed my course and steered
+for them, crossing the Neale at two miles and three-quarters. On the
+south-west side of the Neale the country is rather stony, and for about a
+mile from it the feed is not very good, in consequence of its being
+subject to inundation, but beyond that the feed is beautiful. At three
+miles and a half made the white patches, and found them to be springs
+covering a large extent of country, but not so active as those already
+described. Leaving the springs at two miles, crossed the Neale at a place
+where it becomes narrower and the channel much deeper, with long sheets
+of salt and brackish water. I shall now leave the creek. In the time of a
+flood an immense body of water must come down it. At the widest part,
+where it spreads itself out in the plain, the drift stuff is from
+fourteen to fifteen feet up in the trees. Camped at 4 p.m.
+
+Friday, 17th June, The Neale. Discovered another large quantity of water
+supplied by springs. This country is a wonderful place for them. There is
+an immense quantity of water running now.
+
+Saturday, 18th June, The Neale. Started early in the morning to examine
+the country. Found large quantities of quartz, samples of which I brought
+with me. Still well watered, but without any timber.
+
+Sunday, 19th June, The Neale. Water in abundance, with large quantities
+of quartz. The course the quartz seems to take is from the south-west to
+the north-east. The plain we examined to-day is a large basin, surrounded
+by the hills from Mount Younghusband and Mount Kingston, with the creek
+running through the centre. To-morrow I shall have a look along the
+north-east side of Mount Kingston, for I see the quartz apparently goes
+through the range and breaks out again on the north-east side, which is
+very white.
+
+Monday, 20th June, Mount Kingston. Started at 8 o'clock a.m. to examine
+the quartz on the east side of Mount Kingston. Crossed the creek, and at
+three miles struck a quartz reef. The Freeling Springs still continue,
+but seem inclined to run more to the eastward. Changed my course to a
+peak in a low range which has a white appearance. At eight miles reached
+the peak; the quartz ceases altogether, and the country is stony from
+here. I can see the line of the Neale running eastward; it spreads out
+over the plain. It was my intention to follow it until it reached the
+lake, but I find the ground too stony for me to do so. Being reduced to
+my last set of shoes, and some of them pretty well worn out, I am obliged
+to retreat. Changed my course at seven miles across the bed of the creek,
+three miles broad, with a number of brackish water holes in it, some very
+salt. At this point the trees cease. I can see nothing of the lake.
+Camped on a gum creek without water. The latter part of our course was
+over a very barren and rotten plain, surrounded by cliffs of gypsum,
+quite destitute of vegetation. It has evidently been the bed of a small
+lake at some time. There is no salt about it.
+
+Tuesday, 21st June, Dry Gum Creek. At 7.40 started on the same course as
+last night, and after various changes of bearings arrived at the hill,
+whither I had sent Muller, and where he found two springs. Instead of
+two, they are numerous all round the hill; some are without water on the
+surface, and others have plenty. It is a perfect bed of springs. A little
+more east they are stronger, surrounded with green reeds and rushes.
+
+Wednesday, 22nd June, Mount Younghusband. Started at 8.40. At three miles
+and a half came to a large bed of springs with reeds and rushes, water
+running and good, with numerous other small springs all round. They are a
+continuation of those we camped at last night, with an abundant supply of
+excellent water. At four miles crossed the salt creek coming from Hawker
+Springs. At eight miles crossed three salt and soda lagoons, surrounded
+by lime and gypsum mounds, in which are numerous springs up to the foot
+of the hills (ten miles and a half) and all round them. I have named
+these hills Parry Hills, after Samuel Parry, Esquire. It was my intention
+to have gone to the east from this, but the horses' shoes will not admit
+of it. To the south-east I observed three conical hills, for which I will
+now steer. At seven miles crossed a gum creek, in which are large water
+holes, where water had been lately, but there is now only mud. There must
+be water either up or down the creek, for there are numerous native
+tracks leading both ways. At ten miles crossed a large gum (stunted)
+creek with abundant springs of rather brackish water. At nineteen miles
+and a half camped on a broad creek, but no water. The country good.
+
+Thursday, 23rd June, Dry Creek. Started at 8.30 on the same course for
+one of the conical hills. At three miles ascended it, and found it to be
+flat-topped. I can see nothing of any lake to the east. The view is
+interrupted by a flat-topped range. From this I changed my course, and at
+three miles and a half observed a peculiar-looking spot to the
+south-west, which had the appearance of springs. Changed my course for
+it, and at six miles came upon a hill of springs surrounded by a number
+of smaller ones, with an ample supply of first-rate water. The hill is
+covered with reeds and rushes; it is situated at the west side of a large
+plain, and is bounded by stony table land on the east side, which has an
+abrupt descent of about thirty feet into the plain. On the west side are
+a number of broken hills, and a small range composed of gypsum and lime,
+having the surface covered with fragments of quartz and ironstone, and a
+number of other pebbles. On the hill where the springs are we have found
+lava. There are numerous small creeks coming from the hill, and running
+in every direction. They seem to be all in confusion. The plain is about
+five miles wide. These I have named the Louden Springs.
+
+Friday, 24th June, Louden Springs. I must remain here to-day, and put the
+last of the shoes upon some of the horses which are getting rather lame.
+I have been making them go without as long as I can.
+
+Saturday, 25th June, Louden Springs. Started at 7.50. At 8.45 (three
+miles) crossed a gum creek, and at 12 o'clock (eleven miles) crossed the
+Douglas, but no water. The channel still broad and sandy.
+
+Sunday, 26th June, The Douglas. Started at 8.25, on a bearing of 217
+degrees. Crossed the lagoon, which was rather boggy in some places. It is
+now more than two miles broad, with a white crust on the top, composed of
+soda and salt, but mostly salt. It must be supplied by springs. At three
+miles crossed a salt creek, with salt water. It empties itself into the
+lagoon, and is the same that passes by the Strangway Springs. I can see
+nothing of any springs at this part of the creek. Steered upon the same
+course to intersect my outward tracks. Saw some natives walking along a
+valley. They did not observe us. I hailed them, and an old man came up to
+us. He was rather frightened, and trembled a good deal. He seemed to
+wonder and be pleased at my smoking a pipe of tobacco. I gave one to him
+and a piece of tobacco, but he did not know how to manage the cutting,
+filling, and lighting operations. I did these for him. In the first
+attempt he put the wrong end into his mouth, which he found rather hot,
+and quickly took it out. I then showed him the right end. He managed a
+whiff or two, but he did not fancy it. He seemed very much pleased with
+the pipe, which he kept. I then made him understand that I wanted water.
+He pointed the same course that I was steering. In a short time another
+made his appearance in the distance. By a little persuasion from the old
+fellow, he was induced to come up, and in a short time became very
+talkative, and very anxious to show us the water. In a few minutes a
+third made his appearance, and came up. He was the youngest--a stout,
+able-bodied fellow, about twenty-four years old. The others were much
+older, but were very powerful men, and all three in excellent condition.
+The women did not come up, but remained in the flat. I expected they were
+going to take us to some springs, and was disappointed when they showed
+us some rain water in a deep hole. They were quite surprised to see our
+horses drink it all. They would go no further with us, nor show us any
+more, and, in a short time after, left us. We struck our outward tracks,
+and steered for the Elizabeth Springs, where we arrived after dark.
+
+Monday, 27th June, Elizabeth Springs. Gave the horses a half-day, and
+made the Mount Hamilton Springs in the afternoon.
+
+Tuesday, 28th June, Hamilton Springs. Started for Chambers Creek to my
+first encampment. Arrived there in the afternoon. Distance, eighteen
+miles.
+
+Wednesday, 29th June, Chambers Creek. Resting the horses and preparing
+for a trip down on the west side of Mount North-west, to see if I can
+find a road and water that way.
+
+Friday, 1st July, Chambers Creek. Started at 8 a.m. on a bearing of 120
+degrees. At twenty-four miles camped on a water hole in Gregory Creek,
+where it comes out of the hills. There are three remarkable peaks north
+of the water, one in particular having a white face to the east, with a
+course of black stones on the summit, distant about one mile. The first
+five miles was over a well-grassed country, with stones on the surface,
+slightly undulating, with a number of good valleys, very broad, emptying
+themselves into Gregory Creek. At twenty-two miles crossed the main
+channel of the creek. It is divided into a number of courses, with some
+very deep holes in them. When they are filled, they must retain water for
+a great length of time. There are a great many native encampments all
+about the creek. The gums are dwarf.
+
+Saturday, 2nd July, Gregory Creek. Started at 10.8. Course, 120 degrees.
+At three miles, opposite a long permanent water hole, with rushes growing
+round it. At seven miles, crossed the upper part of the Gregory; eight
+miles and a half, top of dividing range; thirteen miles, crossed a creek
+with rain water; fourteen miles, crossed another deep channel. Camped at
+twenty-three miles, within twelve miles of Termination Hill. The country
+for ten miles before we halted was very good.
+
+Sunday, 3rd July. Rounded Termination Hill, and arrived at Mr. Glen's
+station.
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE
+TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860.
+
+Friday, 4th November, 1859. Started from Chambers Creek for the Emerald
+Spring. At ten miles crossed nine fresh horse-tracks going eastward; I
+supposed them to be those of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. I have
+not as yet seen his outward track. Arrived at the spring before sundown.
+
+Saturday, 5th November, Emerald Spring. Started at 7.30 on a course of
+340 degrees. At seven miles and a half changed to 38 degrees, for three
+miles to a high sand hill, from which I could see two salt lagoons, one
+to the south and the other to the north; examined them, but could find no
+springs. Next bearing, 18 degrees, to clear the lagoon, two miles and a
+half sandy, with salt bush and grass. Changed to our first bearing, 340
+degrees, for six miles, and then to 350 degrees, for five miles, when we
+reached the top of a high hill, from which we could see the lake lying to
+the north of us about three miles distant. Changed to 315 degrees for
+three miles and a half to get a good view of the lake. This is a large
+bay; from north-east to north-west there is nothing visible but the dark,
+deep blue line of the horizon. To the north-north-east there is an island
+very much resembling Boston Island (Port Lincoln) in shape; to the east
+of it there is a point of land coming from the mainland. To the
+north-north-west are, apparently, two small islands. A short distance to
+the east of the horn of the bay there seems to be much white sand or salt
+for two or three miles from the beach towards the blue water (on this
+side of which there is a white line as if it were surf): this again
+appears at the shores of the island, and also at the horn of the bay.
+From the south shore to the island the distance is great; I should say
+about twenty-five miles, but it is very difficult to judge correctly. At
+three miles and a half camped at sundown, without water.
+
+Sunday, 6th November, Lake Eyre. Got up before daybreak to get the first
+glimpse of the lake, to see if there is any land on the horizon, and,
+with a powerful telescope, can see none. It has the same appearance as I
+described last night. I watched it for some time after sunrise, and it
+still continued the same. After breakfast went to examine the shore:
+course north, two miles and a half; found it to be caked with salt, with
+ironstone and lime gravel. When flooded, at about fifty yards from the
+hard beach, the water will be about three feet deep. I tried to ride to
+the water, but found it too soft, so I dismounted and tried it on foot.
+At about a quarter of a mile I came upon a number of small fish, all
+dried and caked in salt; they seem to have been left on the receding of
+the waters, or driven on shore by a heavy storm; they were scattered over
+a surface of twelve yards in breadth all along the shore; very few,
+especially of the larger ones, were perfect. I succeeded in obtaining
+three as nearly perfect as possible; one measured eight inches by three,
+one six inches by two and a half, and another five inches by two. They
+resemble the bream. I should think this a sufficient proof of the depth
+of the water. I then proceeded towards the water, but the ground became
+soft, and the clay was so very tenacious and my feet so heavy, that it
+was with difficulty I could move them, and so I was obliged to return.
+The salt is about three inches thick, and underneath it is clay. I would
+have tried it in some other places, but as my horses were without water
+(and as I intend to visit this place again), I think it more prudent to
+search for water for them, and, if I cannot find any, to return to the
+camp. Started on a south course to examine the country for springs. At
+six miles found we were running parallel to sand ridges, and no chance of
+water. Changed to 160 degrees, crossed a number of sand ridges, but no
+water, except a little rain water that we found in a hole. Proceeded to
+the camp, and arrived there about sundown.
+
+Monday, 7th November, Emerald Springs. Finding that the weevil is at work
+with my dried beef, I must remain to-day and put it to rights. Prepared a
+package with the fish, etc., to be left for Mr. Barker when he comes
+here, to be sent to town. There are fish in this spring about three
+inches long. We have also found a cold-water spring among the warm ones.
+
+Tuesday, 8th November, Emerald Springs. Not being satisfied about one of
+the lagoons I saw yesterday, I have sent Kekwick and Muller to see if
+there are any springs, while I and the others proceed to the Beresford
+Springs; they are to overtake me. Arrived at the springs at 3 p.m. We
+could find no fresh water on our way, but plenty of salt and brackish in
+the creek which we first struck at six miles from the Emerald Springs.
+Sundown: the two men have not come up; they must have found something to
+detain them; they had only to do about eight miles more than I had. I
+expect they will arrive during the night.
+
+Wednesday, 9th November, Beresford Springs. No signs of the two men; they
+must have stopped at some water during the night. It is very tiresome to
+be delayed in this way: what can they be about? At 12 noon they arrived;
+they had passed my tracks and gone on to Mount Hugh instead of coming on
+here. I will give their horses an hour's rest and go on to the Strangway
+Springs. The Paisley Ponds are dry, but there is salt and brackish water
+three miles lower down the creek. Started at 2 p.m., and at 5 p.m.
+arrived at the springs, which are about ten miles from the Beresford.
+They are upon a high hill about one hundred feet above the level of the
+plains; there are a great number of them, and abundance of water, but
+very much impregnated with salt and soda. My eyes are very bad.
+
+Thursday, 10th November, Strangway Springs. Suffering very much from bad
+eyes and the effects of the water of these springs; cannot help it, but
+must go and examine the country to north-west and west. Sent Muller to
+the east in search of springs, with instructions to strike my former
+tracks and examine all the country between. Started at 7 a.m. with one
+man, on a course of 315 degrees, and at one mile crossed a salt creek
+with water; at three miles the sand hills commenced, crossing our course
+at right angles. At 2 p.m. struck a large lagoon (salt) about two miles
+broad and five miles long, running north-east and south-west, narrowing
+at the ends; distance, fourteen miles; tried to cross it but found it too
+boggy; rounded it on the south-west point, where we discovered a spring;
+no surface water, but soft, and the same all round for about two acres
+square, covered with grass reeds of a very dark colour and very thick,
+showing the presence of water underneath. Proceeded round the lagoon to a
+high hill, which seemed to have reeds upon the top of it; after a good
+deal of bogging and crossing the bends of the lagoon, we arrived at the
+hill, and found it to be very remarkable. Its colour is dark-green from
+the reeds and rushes and water-grass which cover it. It is upwards of one
+hundred feet high, the lower part red sand; but a little higher up is a
+course of limestone. On the top is a black soil, sand and clay, through
+and over which the water trickles, and then filters through the sand into
+the lagoon. Where the water is, on the top, it is upwards of one hundred
+feet long. Immense numbers of tracks of emus and wild dogs, also some
+native tracks, all fresh. On the north-west side there is one solitary
+gum-tree, and about half a mile in the same direction is another bed of
+reeds, and a spring with water in it. All the banks round the lagoon are
+of a spongy nature. I am very glad I have found this; it will be another
+day's stage with water nearer to the Spring of Hope. We can now make that
+in one day, if we can get an early start. By the discovery of springs on
+this trip, the road can now be travelled to the furthest water that I saw
+on my last trip from Adelaide, and not be a night without water for the
+horses. The country to the south and south-east of the last springs
+(which I have named the William Springs, after the youngest son of John
+Chambers, Esquire), is sand hills and valleys, rich in grass and other
+food for cattle. Thence I proceeded to hill bearing 10 degrees south of
+north, distant three miles, from the top of which I could see no rising
+ground to the westward, nothing but sand hills. Changed my course to
+south, to a white place under some stony hills; at ten miles reached it,
+and found it to be a salt creek, but no springs. The last ten miles were
+through hills not so high as those I crossed on my way out, but more
+broken, with plenty of feed. It is my intention to push for the Strangway
+Springs tonight, so as to get an early start in the morning. Arrived at
+10 p.m., found that one of the horses had not been seen all day;
+something always does go wrong when I am away; I shall have to make a
+search for him in the morning. My eyes very bad from the effects of the
+glare of the sun on the sand hills, and the heat reflected from them, and
+that everlasting torment, the flies.
+
+Friday, 11th November, Strangway Springs. My eyes so bad I cannot see;
+unable to go myself in search of the missing horse; despatched two of the
+men at daybreak to circuit the spring, and cut her tracks if she has left
+them. They have returned, but can see no tracks leaving the spring; she
+must be concealed among the reeds; sent three men to examine them. They
+found her at 1 p.m. Started at 2 p.m., and arrived at William Springs at
+sundown. Distance, fourteen miles. By keeping a little more to the east,
+the sand hills can nearly be avoided, and a good road over stony country,
+with good feed, can be had to this spring.
+
+Saturday, 12th November, William Springs. Very unwell, unable to move
+to-day; I am almost blind and suffering greatly from the effects of the
+water at Strangway Springs. As I wished to examine round this spring, I
+remained here to-day; and, as I could not go myself, sent two of the men
+in different directions. At sundown they returned, and reported that
+there are no springs for ten miles distant from east-south-east to north.
+To the east about three miles there is another lagoon resembling this
+one, but not so large, and no springs; plenty of grass about a mile from
+the lagoon. Saw two natives at a distance, but could not get near them.
+
+Sunday, 13th November, William Springs. I feel a little better to-day,
+but suffer very much from the eyes. I hope I shall be able to travel
+to-morrow, for it is misery to remain in camp in the hot weather.
+Latitude, 28 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds. Variation, 4 degrees 47
+minutes east.
+
+Monday, 14th November, William Springs. Started on a course of 317
+degrees for the Hope Springs, and arrived at 5 p.m. I kept to the west in
+order to see what the country was in that direction, in the hope of
+finding some more springs. At twenty-one miles crossed the Douglas,
+coming from north-north-west; the country from it to the north-west and
+north looked quite white with quartz, and showed signs of being
+auriferous. From the Douglas to north-west the feed was not quite so
+plentiful, salt bush with grass, the salt bush predominating; but as we
+approached the Spring of Hope it improved, and became good as we neared
+the creek. Distance, thirty miles.
+
+Tuesday, 15th November, Spring of Hope. The spring is still good,
+yielding a plentiful supply of water. Sent one of the men to the east and
+south-east to examine some white patches of country that I saw on our
+journey up here, while I, with one man and two days' provisions, started
+south-west to a high and prominent hill in the range. At 11 a.m. arrived
+at the top, from which I had a good view of the country all round. It is
+a table-topped hill, standing on high table land, which is intersected
+with numerous small watercourses, flowing towards the Douglas on the
+south and west sides of the mount, which I have named Mount Anna. It is
+compound of ironstone, quartz, granite, and a chalky substance, also an
+immense quantity of conglomerate quartz and ironstone, which has the
+appearance of having been run together in a smelting works. There are
+also numerous courses of slate of different descriptions and colours; the
+quartz, which exists in white patches, predominates, and gives the
+country the appearance of numerous springs. These patches have deceived
+me two or three times to-day. At twenty miles the sand hills begin again;
+the country being rather poor, with a number of isolated hills, and also
+some white chalky cliffs of twenty feet high and upwards. No water nor
+appearance of any to the west for a considerable distance. Changed to the
+north-west to look at some more white country. I am again disappointed;
+it turns out to be quartz with low chalky cliffs, and a large quantity of
+igneous stone. Country the same, with salt bush and a little grass in
+places. I can see no inducement for me to go further, so I shall return
+to the camp. Arrived after dark. My eyes are still very bad, and I suffer
+dreadfully from them. To-day has been hot, and the reflection from the
+white quartz and the heated stones was almost insufferable: what a relief
+it was when the sun went down! Distance, forty-five miles.
+
+Wednesday, 16th November, Spring of Hope. Still very ill, and unable to
+go out myself. Sent Muller to examine the creek nearer Mount Margaret for
+water; if he finds any near the mount, I shall move there, as it will be
+nearer, for building the cone of stones on the top of the mount, than
+Hawker Springs. Shod our horses, and built a small cone of stones on a
+reef of rocks that runs along the top of a hill about half a mile
+west-north-west from the spring, to which it will act as a land mark.
+Muller has returned, and reports having found water in the other creek,
+about five miles north-north-west from this; the water is in the centre
+of the creek, in three or four holes, some of which are brackish, but one
+of them is very good. A number of natives were camped about it, but took
+to flight the moment they saw him; he tried to induce them to come near
+him, but they would not; they appeared to be very much frightened, and
+climbed up the cliffs to get out of his way. Plenty of feed between the
+two waters; through the hills there is an abundance. I find the water
+discovered to-day (which I have named The George Creek, after G.
+Davenport, Esquire), will be of no advantage to me when building the cone
+of stones; I shall therefore move to the Hawker Springs to-morrow.
+
+Thursday, 17th November, Spring of Hope. Arrived at the Hawker Springs at
+noon, and commenced the survey. Springs still good; some of them at this
+point will require to be opened. We have opened one, and the water is
+beautiful. Immense quantities of reeds and rushes. Built a cone of stones
+on the hill at the westernmost spring.
+
+Friday, 18th November, Hawker Springs. Building a cone of stones on the
+top of Mount Margaret, and making other preparations for the survey.
+To-day very hot, wind south-east; a great deal of lightning to the south.
+Obtained bearings of the following points from the hill at Hawker
+Springs--namely, Mount Margaret, Mount Younghusband, hill at Parry
+Springs, Mount Charles, and Mount Stevenson.
+
+Saturday, 19th November, Hawker Springs. Sent the party on to Fanny
+Springs, where I intend to lay down my base-line. Went with Kekwick to
+the top of Mount Margaret. This hill is composed of grey and red granite,
+quartz, and ironstone; on the lower hill is a blue and brown stratum. I
+then proceeded to examine the creeks running to the east; in following
+one of them down we came upon another spring of water, running and very
+good. The creek is bounded on both sides for about a mile by nearly
+perpendicular cliffs, which appeared to get much lower and broken to the
+west. It is situated about one mile north of Mount Margaret, and runs
+into the Hawker Springs valley. Could see no more higher up. Followed the
+creek down to the opening. Proceeded about half a mile, entered another
+gorge, and rode up it about three-quarters of a mile; came upon another
+spring, running also, water excellent. Numerous native camps in the
+creek. Country the same as in the other creek; cliffs slate and not so
+high, but more broken, with watercourses between them, through which
+cattle could find their way to the tops of the hills, where there appears
+to be plenty of grass; there is also an abundance at the mouth of the
+gorge and on the plains. This creek also runs into the valley of the
+Hawker Springs. Distance from Mount Margaret, two miles and a half, 8
+degrees east of north. As it was getting towards sunset I found I must
+make for the camp, which was about twelve miles off. Arrived after dark.
+Springs still as good as when I first saw them. Very tired, having had a
+very long day of it.
+
+Sunday, 20th November, Fanny Springs. Got up at daybreak, and went to the
+top of Mount Charles, on which I had ordered the men to build a cone of
+stones after their arrival here yesterday. On my return to the camp the
+men informed me that Smith had absconded during the night. He generally
+made a practice of sleeping some little distance from the others, when I
+did not see him lie down; I had checked him for it several times. It did
+not appear that he had gone to sleep, but waited an opportunity to steal
+away, taking with him the mare which he used to ride, and harness, etc.,
+also some provisions. As I had started very early to walk to Mount
+Charles, his absence was not observed until some time after I had left,
+and being detained some hours on the top of the hill, in consequence of
+the atmosphere being so thick that I could not obtain my observations, it
+was 7 a.m. before I heard of his departure. That moment I sent Kekwick
+for my own horse (he being the swiftest), and ordered him to saddle,
+mount, pursue, overtake, and bring Smith back; but during the time he was
+preparing, I had time to think the matter over, and decided upon not
+following him, as it would only knock up my horse and detain me three or
+four days. Smith must have started about midnight, for I was up taking
+observations from 12.30 a.m. until daybreak, and neither saw nor heard
+any one during that time. I could ill afford to lose the time in pursuing
+him, situated as I was in the midst of my survey, and he being a lazy,
+insolent, good-for-nothing man, and, worse than all, an incorrigible
+liar, I could place no dependence upon him. We are better without him; he
+has been a very great annoyance and trouble to me from the beginning
+throughout the journey. What could have caused him to take such a step I
+am at a loss to imagine; he has had no cause to complain of bad treatment
+or anything of that sort; he never mentioned such a thing to the other
+men, nor was he heard to complain of anything. Such conduct on an
+expedition like ours deserves the severest punishment: there is no
+knowing what fatal consequences may follow such a cowardly action. Had he
+not stolen the mare, I should have cared little about his running away,
+but I am short of riding horses and have a great deal for them to do
+during the time I am surveying and examining the country. The vagabond
+went off just as the heavy work was beginning, and it was principally for
+that work that I engaged him. He put on a pair of new boots, leaving
+those he had been wearing, evidently intending to push the mare as far as
+she would go, expecting he would be pursued, and then leave her and walk
+the rest. I expect, when he reaches the settled districts, he will tell
+some abominable lie about the matter. If such conduct is not severely
+dealt with, no confidence can be placed in any man engaged in future
+expeditions.
+
+Monday, 21st November, Fanny Springs. Kekwick and I commenced chaining
+the base-line from the top of Mount Charles, bearing 131 degrees.
+Distance chained, four miles thirty chains. I ordered H. Strong to come
+to me with two horses, which he did about 1.30 p.m.; we had finished the
+line, and were waiting for him. I had seen some country that looked very
+much like springs, to the north-east, a mile or so from the line; went to
+examine it, and found some splendid springs--one in particular is a very
+large fountain, about twenty yards in diameter, quite circular and
+apparently very deep, from which there is running a large stream of water
+of the very finest description; it is one of the largest reservoirs I
+have yet seen, three times the size of the one at the Hamilton Springs,
+with abundance of water for any amount of cattle; the water is running a
+mile below it.
+
+Tuesday, 22nd November, Fanny Springs. Engaged chaining the base-line to
+north-west. Saw some more springs a mile or two to the east; too tired to
+examine them to-day. It is dreadfully hot. Returned to the camp at
+sundown.
+
+Wednesday, 23rd November, Fanny Springs. Finished the remaining part of
+base-line. The line is ten miles and forty chains long, crossing the top
+of Mount Charles.
+
+Thursday, 24th November, Fanny Springs. Fixing the angles of runs. Found
+another batch of springs close to north-west boundary of large run,
+covering four or five acres of ground, with an immense quantity of reeds;
+they are not so active as the others. The ground round about is very
+soft, and the water is most excellent. After fixing the north-east
+corner, I proceeded to examine the country beyond the boundaries of the
+runs in search of springs. Having gone several miles north, I saw the
+appearance of a lagoon north-east, for which I started, but on my arrival
+found no springs round it. Still continued on the same course for a
+considerable distance further to a high sand hill, from which we could
+see the Neale winding through a broad valley. One part of the creek being
+much greener than the other, I went to examine it, and found the green
+appearance to be caused by fresh gum-trees, young saplings, rushes, and
+other fresh-water plants and bushes. The creek spreads over the plain in
+numerous channels, four miles wide, but the main channel has only
+gum-trees, with a chain of water holes, some salt, some brackish. By
+scratching on the bank where the rushes were growing we got some
+beautiful water in the gravel, a few inches below the surface. There was
+plenty of feed, and the wild currant, or rather grape, grew in great
+abundance, and was very superior to any I had tasted before. There were
+two kinds; one grew upon a dark-green bush, and had a tart and saltish
+taste, the other grew upon a bush of a much lighter colour, the fruit
+round and plump and much superior to the former; in taste it very much
+resembled some species of dark grape, only a little more acid. From this
+I went in a north-east direction to a mound I had seen on my former
+journey, and found it to be hot springs with a large stream of warm water
+flowing from them nearly as large as the Emerald Springs, and, as it
+seemed to me, warmer. It was a very hot day, and I had been riding fast.
+It was as much as I could bear to keep my hand in the spring for a few
+minutes, six inches below the surface. I put in a staff about four feet
+long, but could find no bottom--nothing but very soft mud; the staff came
+up quite hot. It is a very remarkable hill. From the west side it would
+be taken for a very high sand hill with scrub growing on it--in fact it
+is so. The springs are not seen until the top is reached. From them all
+the east side is covered with green reeds to the base of the hill. The
+hot springs are near the top, and cold ones on one side to the south;
+some at the bottom and some half-way up. There is a large lagoon to the
+east, which I will examine when I move the party up to this, for I have
+no time to-day. Returned towards the camp and fixed the north-west corner
+of the second run; I am obliged to drive pickets into the ground to show
+them. I would have built cones of stones, but could get none large enough
+to do it with. Arrived at the camp very late; fourteen hours on
+horseback.
+
+Friday, 25th November, Fanny Springs. Started shortly after sunrise to
+mark the other two corners of the two runs. On approaching the south-west
+angle of the second run (Parry Spring run), I discovered three other
+springs close to the boundary of the first run. Two of them are outside,
+and one inside, or rather on the boundary. The latter is a large spring,
+having seven streams of water coming from it, one large, the others
+smaller. The other two have abundance of water, covered with reeds.
+Proceeded and marked the other corners, but, having no stones, was
+obliged to put down pickets. Returned to camp, keeping outside the south
+boundary in search of springs, but found none. Crossed over table land,
+salt bush and grass, with stones on the surface. Arrived at the camp a
+little before sundown.
+
+Saturday, 26th November, Fanny Springs. Started for Parry Springs. In the
+evening commenced putting up a cone of stones on the northernmost hill.
+The day was excessively hot. One great thing here is that the nights are
+very cool, so that we are obliged to have a good fire on all night. We
+have had one or two warm nights since I have been out this time. I
+suppose the reason must be that a large body of water exists in the lake
+not far distant from us, the wind coming from north-east. From north-west
+to south-south-east the winds are generally cool. It is so cold in the
+morning that the men are wearing their top-coats; the day does not get
+hot until the sun is a considerable height.
+
+Sunday, 27th November, Parry Springs. Cold wind this morning from the
+east. In the afternoon the sky became overcast, the clouds coming from
+the south-east.
+
+Monday, 28th November, Parry Springs. Building a cone of stones on the
+northernmost of the hills, fixing the south-east corner of run Number 2,
+and moving to the hot springs. Arrived at sundown. Saw a number of holes
+where the natives had been digging for water. Cleaned out one, and found
+water at two feet from the surface, above the water in the creek. It is
+very good. On examining this spring, I find there is a great deal more
+water coming from it than from the Emerald Springs. The hot springs are
+on the top of the sand hill, and the cold ones at the foot. There are
+large quantities of the wild grape growing here, both red and white. They
+are very good indeed, and, if cultivated, would, I think, become a very
+nice fruit.
+
+Tuesday, 29th November, Primrose springs. Surveying run. Sent Muller to
+the north to a distant range, and Strong to the north-east to look for
+springs. Towards evening both returned without being successful. They
+passed over plenty of good feeding country, but the range is high and
+stony, with very little grass, only salt bush. It is a continuation of
+Hanson range, all table land.
+
+Wednesday, 30th November, Primrose springs. Surveying, etc. North-east
+corner of run Number 2 is about two miles west of the Neale. I scratched
+a few inches deep from the surface in the gravel, and found very good
+water. The wild grape is in abundance here, and grows as large as the
+cultivated one. I have obtained some choice seeds.
+
+Thursday, 1st December, Primrose springs. At daybreak started with
+Kekwick to find the lake on an easterly course, keeping to south of east,
+to avoid a soft lagoon. Travelled over a fair salt-bush and grass
+country, with stones on the surface. In places the grass is abundant,
+though dry. At seven miles the sand hills commenced; they are low, with
+broad valleys between, covered with stone. On the sand hills there was
+plenty of grass, and numerous native and emu tracks going towards the
+Neale, which is to the south of us. At fourteen miles struck a gum creek
+with salt water. Searched for springs, but could find none with
+fresh-water. Continued on a course east over sand hills and stony plain,
+and at twenty miles crossed the Neale. It is very broad, with numerous
+channels. In the main one there was plenty of water, but it was very
+brackish. We scratched a hole on the bank about two feet from the salt
+water, and found plenty of good water at six inches from the surface, of
+which our horses drank very readily. This seems to be the mode in which
+the natives obtain good water in a dry season like this. The emus and
+other birds also adopt the same plan. An immense quantity of water must
+come down this creek at times. The drift stuff was upwards of thirteen
+feet high in the gum-trees. A number of native tracks all about the
+creek, quite fresh, but we could not see any one. After giving our horses
+as much water as they would drink, we crossed the creek, which now runs
+north, and proceeded, still on our easterly course, over stony plains for
+four miles, then over sand hills, which continued to the lake, which we
+struck at thirty-five miles. The atmosphere is so thick, it is impossible
+to say what it is like to-night. Camped without water under a high sand
+hill, so that I may have a good view of the lake in the morning. I like
+not the appearance of it to-night; I am afraid we are going to lose it.
+
+Friday, 2nd December, Lake Torrens. Got up at the first peep of day and
+ascended the sand hill. I fear my conjecture of last night is too true. I
+can see a small dark line of low land all round the horizon. The line of
+blue water is very small. So ends Lake Torrens! Started on a course of 30
+degrees west of north to where the Neale empties itself into the lake. At
+seven miles struck it; found plenty of water, but very salt, with
+pelicans and other water-birds upon it. Traversed the creek to the
+south-west in search of water for the horses. At five miles came upon a
+number of water-bushes growing on the banks of a large brackish water
+hole. Scraped a hole about two feet from the bad water, and got good
+water six inches from the surface for ourselves and horses. Gave them an
+hour's rest and started on a west course for the camp, where we arrived
+at 9.30 p.m. The country was similar to that on our outward route; feed
+more abundant. At sundown we crossed the broad channel of a creek, with
+moisture in the centre. Having neither time nor light to examine it
+to-night, I must do so to-morrow, as I think there must be springs to
+supply the moisture.
+
+Saturday, 3rd December, Primrose Springs. Sent Kekwick to examine the
+creek we crossed last night. I cannot go myself, for my eyes are so very
+bad I can scarcely see anything. This is the first time I have had such a
+long continuance of this complaint. I am trying every remedy I can
+imagine, but each seems to have very little or no effect. At sundown
+Kekwick returned, and reported having found the springs which supply the
+creek, but they are salter than the sea, or the strongest brine that ever
+was made. He brought in a fine sample of crystal of salt, which he got
+from under the water, attached to the branch of a bush which had blown
+into it. The creek is the upper part of the first gum creek crossed
+yesterday, and flows into the Neale, which accounts for the water being
+so salt at the mouth of it. No fresh-water springs to be seen round
+about.
+
+Sunday, 4th December, Primrose Springs. Examining the Neale for
+fresh-water springs. The water holes are abundant, but all more or less
+brackish; plenty of rushes on the banks, where fresh water can be had by
+scratching a little below the surface. I have not the least doubt but
+there will be plenty of fresh water on the surface for a long time after
+the creek comes down and sweeps all the soda and salt into the lake. It
+is the rapid evaporation that causes it to be so brackish, and I should
+think the consumption by stock would make a great improvement in it;
+there would not be so much of it exposed to the sun, and the evaporation
+would be much less. After considering the matter of having seen the
+northern boundary of Lake Torrens, I am inclined to think I have been in
+error. What I have taken for the lake may have been a large lagoon, which
+receives the waters of the Neale before going into the large lake: I must
+examine it again. After my surveys are completed, I shall move my party
+down the creek to where we found the good water, and from there see what
+it really is. I cannot bring my mind to think it is the northern boundary
+of the lake.
+
+Monday, 5th December, Primrose Springs. Moved the party down to the South
+Parry Springs. My eyes are still very bad.
+
+Tuesday, 6th December, South Parry Springs. Shortly after daybreak
+started for Louden Springs, taking different courses, in search of more
+springs, but can find none. Examined the George Creek, where the small
+run is to be laid off; found some good water by scratching in the creek,
+where there are plenty of rushes. A little before sundown we arrived at
+the springs. I did not observe before that the higher springs on the top
+of the hill are warm, but not nearly so hot as the others; the lower ones
+are cold. Some other party has been here; we have seen their fresh tracks
+and the place where they have camped; they seem to have been wandering
+about a good deal before they found these springs.
+
+Wednesday, 7th December, Louden Springs. Went to the top of Mount
+Stevenson, built a cone of stones, and obtained bearings to fix it. No
+appearance of any springs to the east of this, nor of the lake.
+
+Thursday, 8th December, Louden Springs. Surveying and building
+trigonometrical station on a light-coloured hill to the south of this. My
+eyes very bad; can scarcely see; can do nothing.
+
+Friday, 9th December, Louden Springs. Nearly blind; dreadful pain; can do
+nothing to-day; no sleep last night.
+
+Saturday, 10th December, Louden Springs. All yesterday the wind was hot
+and strong from west and north-west; heavy clouds from south and
+south-west. In the evening the wind changed to south. This morning still
+the same; heavy clouds from same direction. My eyes are a little better,
+so that I shall be able to do something. The sky being overcast I shall
+put up some of the corners of this run.
+
+Sunday, 11th December, Louden Springs. Still cloudy, but no rain.
+
+Monday, 12th December, Louden Springs. Still very cloudy; wind south;
+heavy clouds to north-west; no rain. Finishing the east boundary of
+Number 3 run. Can find no more springs in or about this run. At sundown
+still very cloudy, but no rain.
+
+Tuesday, 13th December, Louden Springs. Started at 7.15 a.m. to find the
+lake on an east course. The horses being a long distance off, it was late
+before they came up. At nine miles crossed the gum creek running north,
+spread out in a broad valley into numerous courses rich in food for
+cattle. At twelve miles sand hills commenced, and continued to the shores
+of the lake, with broad stony plains between, and plenty of grass. At
+twenty miles crossed the Douglas, running north through sand hills in a
+broad valley divided into numerous courses, with dwarf gum-trees, mallee,
+tea-tree, and numerous other bushes; the bed sandy, and no water. At
+thirty-five miles struck the lake where the Douglas joins it. The country
+travelled over to-day has been stony plain (undulating), and low sand
+hills, with abundance of feed, but no water. There is some water at the
+mouth of the Douglas, but it is salter than the sea. The water in the
+lake seems to be a long distance off, but the mirage is so very strong
+that I can form no opinion of it to-night. This seems also a bay I have
+got into. There is a point of land to the south bearing 25 degrees east
+of south, and the other bearing 25 degrees east of north. Searched about
+for water, but could find none. Camped in the creek without any. The
+country at this part is very low, and nearly on a level with the lake.
+The only sand hill I shall be able to get a view from is not above thirty
+feet high. At sundown I got on the top of the sand hill, but could see
+nothing distinctly; must wait until morning. This creek seems to be very
+little frequented by natives; can see very few tracks and no worleys.
+
+Wednesday, 14th December, Lake Torrens. At the first dawn of day I got to
+the top of the hill, and remained there some time after sunrise. To the
+south-east there is the appearance of a point of land, which I suppose to
+be the island which I saw when I first struck the lake. There is the
+appearance of water between. A little more to the eastward I can see
+nothing but horizon. To the east there is again the appearance of very
+low distant land--a mere dark line when seen through a powerful
+telescope. To the north of that there is nothing visible but the horizon,
+with a blue and white streak between. To the north-north-east beyond the
+point, a little low land is to be seen running out from the point, with
+water in the far distance. Rode down to the beach to see what that was
+composed of; found it to be sand, mud and gravel; firm ground next the
+shore. Tried a little distance with the horses, but found it too soft to
+proceed with them. I then dismounted, and tried it on foot, but could
+only get about two miles; it became so soft, that I was sinking to the
+ankles, and the clay was so very tenacious that it completely tired me
+before I got back to the horses. The quantity of salt was not so great
+here as at the first place I examined. What I thought was a point of land
+bearing north-north-east turns out to be an island, which I can see from
+here. The point of the bay is north from where I took the bearings.
+Between the island and the point I can see nothing but horizon; too low
+to see any water. Traced the creek up for seven miles in search of water
+or springs, but could see none, nor any indications. Had breakfast, and
+started on a course of 20 degrees north of west in search of water or
+springs. Crossed the Davenport and ascended a low range, but still could
+not see any indications of water; the country similar to that passed over
+yesterday. Changed my bearing towards the camp, and arrived there a
+little before sundown. The horses were very thirsty, and drank an awful
+quantity of water, but being hot it will do them no harm. It is
+remarkable that to east of the hot springs I can find no others. This is
+the third time I have tried it, and been unsuccessful. I am almost afraid
+that the next time I try the lake I shall not find the north boundary of
+it. Where can all this water drain to? It is a mystery.
+
+Thursday, 15th December, Louden Springs. Surveyed run Number 4, and sent
+Kekwick to correct observations from Mount Stevenson.
+
+Friday, 16th December, Louden Springs. Finished Number 4 run. To-day we
+have discovered a large fresh-water hole in a creek joining the George
+and coming from the south-west. The water seems to be permanent; it is
+half a mile long and seems to be deep. On the banks a number of natives
+have been encamped; round about their fires were large quantities of the
+shells of the fresh-water mussel, the fish from which they had been
+eating: I should think this a very good proof of the water being
+permanent. After finishing the survey I followed the creek up for a
+number of miles in search of more water, but could find none. It spread
+into a number of courses over a large plain, on which there was splendid
+feed.
+
+Saturday, 17th December, Louden Springs. Started for the springs under
+Mount Margaret to finish the western boundary of Number 1 run. Arrived
+towards sundown. Found the creek occupied by natives, who, as soon as
+they caught sight of us, bolted to the hill and got upon the top of a
+high cliff, and there remained for some time, having a good view of us. I
+did everything in my power to induce them to come down to us, but they
+would not, and beckoned us to be off back the road we came. At night they
+had fires round us, but at some distance off.
+
+Sunday, 18th December, Mount Margaret. About 9 a.m. the natives made
+their appearance on the hill, and made signs for us to be off; they were
+eight in number. I found that we had camped close to a large quantity of
+acacia seed that they had been preparing when we arrived, but had no time
+to carry it away before we were on them. One old fellow was very
+talkative. I went towards them to try and make friends with them, but
+they all took to the hills. By signs I induced the old fellow to stop,
+and in a short time got him to come a little nearer. When I came to the
+steep bank of the creek he made signs for me to come no further. I showed
+him I had no arms with me, and wished him to come up. I could understand
+him so far that he wished us to go away, that they might get their seed.
+I thought it as well not to aggravate them, but to show them that we came
+as friends; and as I had completed all I had to do here, I moved the camp
+towards the Freeling Springs, at which they seemed very glad, and made
+signs for us to come back at sundown. They seemed to be a larger race
+than those down below; the men are tall and muscular, the females are low
+in stature and thin. I examined the Mount Margaret range in going along;
+there are a number of gum creeks coming from the north side which flow
+into the Neale. We searched them up and down, but could find no water.
+The number of channels that join them in the range is so great that it
+would take weeks to examine them minutely for water. We camped in one of
+them without water, although the country promises well for it.
+
+Monday, 19th December, Gum Creek. Started on a north-west course to
+examine the country between this and the Mount Younghusband range. We
+could see no springs until we reached the Blyth, in which there is water,
+but a little brackish; it will do well for cattle. Rode through the
+middle of the range, and came upon some horse-tracks, not very old; saw
+where the party had camped, and a cairn of stones they had erected on the
+top of one of the hills. Followed their tracks some distance down the
+gully; they seemed to be going to the Burrow Springs; they appear,
+however, to have gone back again. Left the tracks, and proceeded to the
+Freeling Springs. Arrived there in the afternoon. No one has been here
+since I was, as far as I can see. The country we have passed over
+yesterday and to-day has been really splendid for feed. The springs
+continue the same, running in a strong stream and of the finest quality.
+
+Tuesday, 20th December, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and one of the men
+to examine the goldfield, and to select a place for sinking to-morrow
+morning. My eyes were so bad that I was unable to go. They returned in
+the afternoon, bringing with them samples from the quartz reefs, in which
+there was the appearance of gold. Kekwick said he had not seen such good
+quartz since he left the diggings in Victoria. There was every indication
+of gold, and I determined to give the place a good trial before leaving
+it.
+
+Wednesday, 21st December, Freeling Springs. Commenced digging, but found
+the rocks too near. Surface indications were very slight here, but I
+found another place which seemed to promise better, so began sinking
+there, and at four feet came upon some large boulders, round which was
+very good-looking stuff for washing; took some of it to camp and washed
+it. No gold, but good indications; a quantity of black sand and emery,
+also other good signs. I shall continue the hole, and see what is in the
+bottom. Thunderstorm this afternoon; south-west hot wind.
+
+Thursday, 22nd December, Freeling Springs. Occupied in sinking, but made
+little progress in consequence of the stones being so large, and the want
+of proper tools, crowbar, etc. Washed some more stuff from round about
+the boulders; the produce same as yesterday; no gold.
+
+Friday, December 23rd, Freeling Springs. Found that we could do nothing
+with the stones with the tools we have. Examined the country round about,
+and found another place, which will be commenced to-morrow. Examined a
+quartz reef which had every indication of gold. I regretted that I had
+not another man, so that I might be able to examine the country for some
+distance round. It is necessary to have two men at the camp, which cannot
+be moved to where we are sinking, as there is no water within two miles.
+It would not be safe to leave the camp with one man only, and two
+digging, which is all our strength. Heavy thunderstorm from the
+south-west, but very little rain. The wind blew my tent in two. At
+sundown it passed over and cleared up, which I regretted to see, as I
+expected heavy rains at this season, to enable me to make for the north
+or north-west.
+
+Saturday, 24th December, Freeling Springs. Sank upwards of six feet
+through gravel, shingle, stones, and quartz. Wind south-west. Heavy
+clouds; wind hot.
+
+Sunday, 25th December, Freeling Springs. Wind south; heavy clouds, but no
+rain; towards evening changed to south-east. Cool.
+
+Monday, 26th December, Freeling Springs. Got to the bottom of the hole;
+washed the stuff, but no gold. Commenced another hole by the side of the
+quartz reef, which looks well. In the morning the wind was from the
+north; at 10 a.m. it suddenly changed to south, and blew a perfect
+hurricane during the whole day, with heavy clouds; but no rain has
+fallen.
+
+Tuesday, 27th December, Freeling Springs. The storm continued during the
+night, until about 3 o'clock this morning, when a few drops of rain fell,
+but not enough to be of any service to me. Bottomed the hole by the side
+of the quartz reef: no gold, and I think we shall not be able to sink any
+more; our tools are getting worn out. For the rest of the day examined
+the quartz reef, in which there is every appearance of gold; I shall stop
+the search for it and proceed to the north-east to-morrow, for I think
+some rain has fallen in that direction, which will enable me to examine
+the country and see if the lake still continues.
+
+Wednesday, 28th December, Freeling Springs. At 7 a.m. started with
+Kekwick on a north-east course. At seven miles crossed the Neale, spread
+over a large grassy plain four miles broad, and ascended a low ridge of
+table-topped hills, stony, with salt-bush and grassed. Crossed another
+creek, at twenty miles, with myall and stunted gums running over a plain
+in numerous courses. Plenty of grass but no water. After crossing it,
+ascended a high peak, which I supposed to be the top of the Hanson range,
+but found another long table-topped hill, higher, about three miles
+distant. Ascended that, but could see nothing but more table-topped
+ranges in the distance. This hill is thirty-five miles from Freeling
+Springs. Searched for water, and after some time found a little water in
+one of the creeks, where we camped, it being after sundown. The country
+from the last creek is not so good, and very stony, so much so that it
+has lamed my horse, and nearly worn his shoes through at the tips. The
+horses have drunk all the water, and left none for the morning.
+
+Thursday, 29th December, Hanson Range. Started at 6 a.m. on the same
+course for another part of the range. At six miles crossed a grassy creek
+of several channels, with myall and gum, but no water, running to
+north-east, nearly along our line. At seventeen miles struck the same
+creek again where it is joined with several others coming from the
+west-north-west and north. They are spread over a large broad plain
+covered with grass. Searched for water, but could not find any. Crossed
+the plains and creeks to a white hill on a north course, and at three
+miles reached the top; it was a low chalky cliff on the banks of the
+creek. Changed our course to the first hill I had taken. At seven miles
+and a half reached the top, which I found very stony. To the north can be
+seen the points of three other table-topped hills; to the north-east is a
+large stony plain about ten miles broad, beyond which are high sand
+hills, and beyond them again, in the far distance, is the luminous
+appearance of water. Not being on the highest part of the range I
+proceeded two miles to the south-east to get a better view. From here we
+could see the creek, winding in a south-east direction, until it reached
+the lake, which seemed to be about twenty-five miles off. We could not
+distinctly see it, the mirage and sand hills obscuring our view. My horse
+having lost both his fore shoes and there being no prospect of water
+further on, I was reluctantly obliged to return to the camp. We had seen
+a little rain water on the plain, about seven miles back, at which we
+decided to camp to-night. Arrived there a little before sundown. My horse
+very lame, scarcely able to walk along the stones. I am disappointed that
+there is not more rain water; there seems only to have been a slight
+shower.
+
+Friday, 30th December, Hanson Range. The horses having strayed some
+distance, we did not get a start till half-past seven on a course of 323
+degrees, to a white hill, to see whether there are any springs on the
+other side; at one mile and a half reached it, but no springs. Changed
+our course to a very prominent hill (which I have named Mount Arthur)
+bearing 275 degrees, and after crossing two small myall creeks and a
+stony plain with salt bush and grass, at ten miles we struck a large
+myall and gum creek, coming from the north-west, with some very deep
+channels. We went some miles up it, but could find no water, the courses
+for the water being too sandy and gravelly to retain it. At twenty-four
+miles from the last hill arrived at the summit of Mount Arthur. Changed
+course to 195 degrees. At ten miles struck another myall and gum creek of
+the same description as the others, coming from the range; no water.
+Camped. My horse is nearly done up; I am almost afraid he will not be
+able to reach the camp to-morrow.
+
+Saturday, 31st December, Hanson Range. Started shortly after daybreak for
+the camp. At fifteen miles struck another myall and gum creek running
+into the Neale, and at twenty miles came upon the Neale, which is here
+three miles broad. Here we saw some recent native tracks and places where
+fires had been. Arrived at the camp at sundown; horses quite done up. I
+am sorry that I have been unable to make the lake on this journey; I
+could have done it, but should most likely have had to leave my horse; he
+never could have done it. I should then have been obliged to walk the
+distance back, with all the water dried up. Had I seen the least
+indication of water on ahead, I should have gone.
+
+Sunday, 1st January, 1860, Freeling Springs. In the afternoon it became
+cloudy. Wind north. No rain.
+
+Monday, 2nd January, Freeling Springs. Having observed a hill on Saturday
+that seemed to me a spring, where the Neale comes through the range, I
+sent Kekwick to examine it, my eyes being too bad. Sent Muller to examine
+some more quartz reefs in which I think gold exists. Towards sundown he
+returned with two good specimens, in which I am almost sure there is
+gold. The reef is twelve feet wide. Shortly after, Kekwick returned and
+reported springs and two large water holes, and numerous smaller ones,
+with abundance of permanent water, although slightly brackish. I shall
+move up and fix their position as soon as I am satisfied with the search
+for gold.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd January, Freeling Springs. Sent Kekwick and Muller to get
+some more specimens of quartz. They returned with some in which there
+were very good indications of gold. It was useless for us to try any
+more, our tools being of no use. The reefs would require to be blasted. I
+am afraid there will be no surfacing here. I have done all that lies in
+my power to get at the gold; but without proper tools we can do nothing,
+so I shall be obliged to give it up, and start to-morrow for the Neale,
+to where I sent Kekwick yesterday.
+
+Wednesday, 4th January, Freeling Springs. Started at 8 a.m., and arrived
+in about thirteen miles. The large water hole is upwards of a mile long,
+with fully forty yards of water: in width, from bank to bank, it is
+seventy yards, and upwards of fifteen feet deep; there are large mussel
+shells on the banks, and plenty of good feed. All round to the south
+there are low sand hills covered with grass. To the east, in some places,
+it is stony, with salt-bush, and many broad well-grassed valleys coming
+from the Mount Kingston range. About a quarter of a mile to the west of
+the large hole there is a course of springs coming from the Kingston
+Hills and sand hills, and emptying themselves into the creek. The water
+is delicious, and plentiful, and, if opened, these springs will yield an
+ample supply for all purposes. To the west are hills, with the creek
+coming through them, with water all the way up to where I crossed it in
+my return last trip. To the north are stony undulating rises, with
+salt-bush and grass.
+
+Thursday, 5th January, The Neale. Examining the country round to the
+north and round Mount Harvey. It is poor and stony. On the eastern and
+northern sides it becomes bad at three miles from the creek. The country
+in the other directions is good, and will make a first-rate run. This, in
+connexion with the Mildred and McEllister Springs, will feed any number
+of cattle.
+
+Friday, January 6th, The Neale. As my rations are now drawing to a close
+(for we started with provisions only for three months, and have been out
+now for three months and more), I must sound a retreat to get another
+supply at Chambers Creek. It was my intention to have sent two men down
+for them, but I am sorry to say that I have lost confidence in all except
+Kekwick. I cannot trust them to be sent far, nor dare I leave them with
+our equipment and horses while Kekwick and I go for the provisions.
+Situated as I am with them, I must take all the horses down; and if I can
+get men to replace them at Chambers Creek, I will send them about their
+business. They have been a constant source of annoyance to me from the
+very beginning of my journey. The man that I had out with me on my last
+journey has been the worst of the two. They seem to have made up their
+minds to do as little as possible, and that in the most slovenly and lazy
+manner imaginable. They appear to take no interest in the success of the
+expedition. I have talked to them until I am completely wearied out;
+indeed, I am surprised that I have endured it so long. Many a one would
+have discharged them, and sent them back walking to Adelaide; in fact, I
+had almost made up my mind to do so from here, and to run the chance of
+getting others at Mr. Barker's. Although they have behaved so badly, and
+so richly deserve to be punished (for they have taken advantage of me
+when I could get no others to supply their places), I could not find in
+my heart to do it. Kekwick is everything I could wish a man to be. He is
+active, pushing, and persevering. At any time, and at any moment, he is
+always ready, and takes a pleasure in doing all that lies in his power to
+forward the expedition. Would that the two others were like him! I should
+then have no trouble at all. Started at 7 a.m. on my return on a
+south-east course, and camped at a small spring on the east side of Mount
+Younghusband. Distance, twenty miles.
+
+Saturday, 7th January, Mount Younghusband. Started at 7 a.m. for the
+Milne Springs, where I shall remain for a day or two to get all the
+horses fresh shod, and leave what things I do not require, intending to
+get them on my return. Arrived there at 11 o'clock. Found the water much
+the same as it was when I first saw it.
+
+Sunday, 8th January, Milne Springs. Severe attack of lumbago. Sun hot;
+but cool breeze from south-east.
+
+Monday, 9th January, Milne Springs. Unable to ride, so I was obliged to
+send Kekwick and one of the men to the westward. This was a great
+disappointment to me, as I should like to have seen the country myself to
+have connected it with my farthest north-west point on my first journey.
+The other man was shoeing the horses. Sun hot. Cool breeze from
+south-east. Very cold night and morning.
+
+Tuesday, 10th January, Milne Springs. Latitude, 28 degrees 15 minutes 45
+seconds. Shoeing horses. Flies a great trouble; can do nothing for them.
+If they are allowed to remain a moment on the eye, it swells up
+immediately, and is very painful. Kekwick and the other man returned at 9
+o'clock p.m. They report having found two springs, one about nine miles
+west, and the other about thirty miles, in a large spring country, which
+they had not time to examine well. Although I am so unwell, I must start
+to-morrow and see what it is. Judging from their description, there must
+be something good; and I cannot leave without seeing it, although my
+provisions are nearly done.
+
+Wednesday, 11th January, Milne Springs. Shortly after sunrise started
+with Kekwick on a west course for the larger spring country, leaving the
+near one until our return. At eleven miles and a half crossed the Blyth,
+coming from the south. At twenty-eight miles reached the spring country.
+Changed to 150 degrees, and at two miles camped at the spring. The
+springy place has the appearance of a large salt lagoon, three miles
+broad and upwards of eight miles long. At the south end of it is a creek
+with brackish water, and on its banks are the springs, the water from
+which is very good; they are not running.
+
+Thursday, 12th January, West Springs. There are a number of natives at
+these springs. We have seen their smoke, and both old and recent tracks.
+Started on a south course. At four miles and a half came upon a creek,
+with reeds and brackish water, running a little to the west of north.
+Traced it down for upwards of a mile and a half. Saw that it ran into the
+swamp west of where we struck it. Could see no springs upon its banks.
+Returned to the place where we first struck it, and proceeded a mile on a
+course of 120 degrees to three large patches of very green reeds, which
+turned out to be eight feet high. Could find no surface water except what
+was brackish. The country was moist all round. Thence on the same bearing
+for two miles. Sent Kekwick to examine some places that looked like
+springs. They were in the middle of a large salt lagoon, having a crust
+of limestone, under which the water was, and if broken open, in many
+places where there was no sign of water, a beautiful supply could be
+obtained. Changed to 245 degrees, and, at about fifteen miles, changed to
+90 degrees, through sand hills. We have seen many places where water can
+be obtained at a few inches below the surface. Camped at the spring. Feel
+very ill; can scarcely sit on my horse.
+
+Friday, 13th January, West Springs. Being anxious to see the nature of
+the country between this and the Mount Margaret range, I started at 6.30
+on a course of 110 degrees over occasional sand hills and stony places,
+with splendid feed. At ten miles and a half reached a stony rise, and
+changed my course to 76 degrees, for five miles, to a black hill composed
+of ironstone. Changed to 105 degrees, for one mile, to examine a white
+place coming down from the range, which had the appearance of springs,
+but found it to be composed of white quartz. Changed again to 50 degrees
+to a rough hill, which had also the appearance of springs. At two miles
+crossed the bed of the Blyth, which takes its rise in the range. No water
+in it, but loose sand and gravel. At seven miles reached the rough hill,
+after crossing three small tributaries; was disappointed in not finding
+water. Ascended the hill, from which we had a good view of the
+surrounding country, but see no indications of water. I must now make for
+the second spring found by my men three days ago. Course north, over
+stony hills and table land, in which I crossed my former tracks going to
+the Freeling Springs. Arrived at the spring at 7.30 p.m. All of us, men
+and horses, very tired.
+
+Saturday, 14th January, Springs South of Mount Younghusband. Examined the
+spring, and found it to be a very good one; it is situated near the banks
+of the Blyth, on the same spongy ground that I discovered last time, and
+which was marked off as a run. Searched about, and found two more good
+springs. There was plenty of water in the creek, but the dry season had
+made it brackish. Discovered a spring in one of the creeks that runs east
+from Mount Margaret. The natives had cleared it out, and the water, which
+was very good, was about two feet from the surface. In the other two
+creeks we also found springs which only required opening. I then made for
+the camp, where I found everything all right.
+
+Sunday, 15th January, Milne Springs. Preparing for a start to-morrow for
+Chambers Creek, by way of Louden Springs; I must endeavour to find some
+more springs, for I am not quite satisfied yet about that country. Very
+much annoyed by the misconduct of the two men I left behind at the camp;
+they have had the impertinence to open my plan-case, and have so damaged
+my principal plan with their hot moist hands, that I know not what to do
+with it. This is not the first time they have done it.
+
+Monday, 16th January, Milne Springs. Started at 7.10 a.m. on a bearing of
+138 degrees 30 minutes. At about twenty-two miles struck four other
+springs, beyond the Messrs. Levi's boundary; from one of them there is a
+strong stream of water flowing. They are almost completely hidden, and
+one cannot see them until almost on the top of them. I have taken
+bearings to fix them, and have named them Kekwick Springs. Five o'clock
+p.m. Arrived at Louden Springs. Distance, thirty-one miles.
+
+Tuesday, 17th January, Louden Springs. Started shortly after daybreak, on
+a course of 110 degrees, over as fine a grass country as I have yet
+travelled over. At sixteen miles crossed the Douglas, running through
+sand hills covered with grass, but no water, nor any signs of springs.
+Proceeded in the same direction for eight miles, when we were stopped by
+a lagoon. Changed my course to south-south-west to a hill that had the
+appearance of water, but found beyond it another large dry lagoon, on the
+banks of which we saw the tracks of a single horse crossing the end of
+the lagoon, and steering for Lake Torrens; they seemed to be about two
+months old. Can they be the tracks of that infatuated man who left me on
+the 20th of November? In all probability he has lost my downward track
+and himself also. They are only about two miles to the east of mine.
+Camped without water on a sand hill.
+
+Wednesday, 18th January, Sand Hill. Started shortly after daybreak on a
+south-south-east course, still in search of springs (crossing my outward
+track of last journey), at a place where I thought it most likely for
+them, but was unsuccessful. If I could have found one here, I should have
+gone direct to the Emerald Springs, but the horses would suffer very much
+if they were to be another night without water; the food is so dry, and
+the weather so hot, they cannot endure more than two days and one night
+without it. Changed my course to Strangway Spring. Arrived there at 2.30.
+Some of the horses very much done up. Camped, and gave them the rest of
+the day to recruit.
+
+Thursday, 19th January, Strangway Springs. Started for the Beresford
+Springs. At nine miles and a half arrived there; and, at eight miles
+beyond, made the Hamilton Springs, where we camped for the night.
+
+Friday, 20th January, Hamilton Springs. Started by way of the Emerald
+Springs, to see if Mr. Barker's party is there, or if any person had been
+there and got the parcel, and forwarded it to Mr. Chambers. Arrived at
+the springs, and found that some one had got it. Mr. B.'s party had gone.
+Went on to Chambers Creek, and found them there.
+
+Saturday, 21st January, Chambers Creek. Here we found provisions awaiting
+us, as we expected; but the two men still exhibit a spirit of
+non-compliance, and refuse to proceed again to the north-west; they are
+bent upon leaving me and returning to Adelaide although they know that
+there are no men here to supply their places. They have demanded their
+wages and a discharge, which, under all the circumstances of the case,
+and considering how badly they have served me, I feel myself justified in
+withholding. I shall therefore be compelled to send Kekwick down as far
+as Mr. Chambers' station with my despatches, etc., and to procure other
+assistance. This will be a great loss of time and expense, which the
+wages these men have forfeited by not fulfilling their agreements will
+ill repay. Here we heard of the man Smith, who, it seems, left the mare,
+whether dead or alive we know not at present. He was lost for four days
+without water (according to his own account), and, after various
+adventures, and picking up sundry trifles from different travelling
+parties, who relieved him out of compassion, reached the settled
+districts in a most forlorn condition. Mr. Barker had left his station
+some three weeks before we arrived.
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FOURTH EXPEDITION--FIXING THE CENTRE OF THE
+CONTINENT. FROM MARCH TO SEPTEMBER, 1860.
+
+Friday, 2nd March, 1860, Chambers Creek. Left the creek for the
+north-west, with thirteen horses and two men. The grey horse being too
+weak to travel was left behind. Camped at Hamilton Springs.
+
+Saturday, 3rd March, Mount Hamilton. Camped at the Beresford Springs,
+where it was evident that the natives, whose camp is a little way from
+this, had had a fight. There were the remains of a body of a very tall
+native lying on his back. The skull was broken in three or four places,
+the flesh nearly all devoured by the crows and native dogs, and both feet
+and hands were gone. There were three worleys on the rising ground, with
+waddies, boomerangs, spears, and a number of broken dishes scattered
+round them. The natives seemed to have run away and left them, or to have
+been driven away by a hostile tribe. Between two of the worleys we
+observed a handful of hair, apparently torn from the skull of the dead
+man, and a handful of emu feathers placed close together, the feathers to
+the north-west, the hair to the south-east. They were between two pieces
+of charred wood, which had been extinguished before the feathers and hair
+were placed there. It seemed to be a mark of some description.
+
+Sunday, 4th March, Beresford Springs. Night and morning cold; day very
+hot. Wind south-west.
+
+Monday, 5th March, Beresford Springs. Wind changed to the east during the
+night. Morning very cold. Arrived at the Strangway Springs. Day very hot.
+Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 6th March, Strangway Springs. Very hot during the night. Made
+William Springs and camped. The day exceedingly hot, wind south-west, in
+which direction a heavy bank of clouds arose about noon; in the evening
+there was a great deal of lightning, and apparently much rain falling
+there, but none came down our way.
+
+Wednesday, 7th March, William Springs. The night very hot and cloudy,
+with the wind from the west, but without rain. Started for Louden Spa,*
+(* The Louden Springs of the two last expeditions.) the first few miles
+being over low sand rises and broad valleys of light sandy soil, with
+abundance of dry grass; by keeping a little more to the north-west the
+sand rises can be avoided. At seven miles we struck a swamp, but could
+see no springs. On approaching the Douglas the country becomes more
+stony, and continues so to the Spa, where we camped.
+
+Thursday, 8th March, Louden Spa. Cold wind this morning from the
+south-east; the clouds are gone. Camped at Hawker Springs.
+
+Friday, 9th March, Hawker Springs. Very cold last night. Wind from the
+south. During the day it changed to the south-east, and the sun was very
+hot. Camped at the Milne Springs, and found the articles we had left*
+there all right (* See last expedition.); the natives had opened the
+place where we had put them, but had taken nothing.
+
+Saturday, 10th March, Milne Springs. At half past 11 last night it began
+to rain, and continued doing so nearly all day. Wind south-east.
+
+Sunday, 11th March, Milne Springs. About 10 o'clock last night we were
+flooded with water, although upon rising ground, and were obliged to move
+our camp to the top of a small hill. It rained all night and morning, but
+there are signs of a break in the clouds. During the day it has rained at
+intervals. The creek is coming down very rapidly, covering all the valley
+with a sheet of water.
+
+Monday, 12th March, Milne Springs. A few heavy showers during the night,
+but now there seems a chance of a fine day, which will enable us to get
+our provisions dried again. The country is so boggy that I cannot proceed
+to-day, but if it continues fair I shall attempt it to-morrow morning.
+This rain is a great boon to me, as it will give me both feed and water
+for my horses, and if it has gone to the north-west it will save me a
+great deal of time looking for water.
+
+Tuesday, 13th March, Milne Springs. Started for Freeling Springs. The
+country in some places is very soft, but the travelling is better than I
+expected. As we approached the Denison ranges the rain did not seem to
+have been so heavy, but when we came to the Peake, we found it running
+bank high, and very boggy. Impossible to cross it here, so I shall follow
+it up in a west-south-west direction. Camped at Freeling Springs.
+
+Wednesday, 14th March, Freeling Springs. Started on a course a little to
+the south of west, to try and find a crossing-place. At two miles it
+turned a little to the north of west, but at ten miles it turned to the
+south-west, and was running very rapidly, about five miles an hour. I was
+obliged to stop at this point, as I could not cross the creek, the banks
+being so boggy. I have discovered another spring at eleven miles on the
+same bearing as the Freeling Springs, but I cannot get to it. From here
+it has the appearance of being very good; a hill covered with reeds at
+the top, the creek running round the east side of it. I shall endeavour
+to cross to-morrow and examine it.
+
+Thursday, 15th March, The Peake. The creek being still impassable, I
+remained here another day. Yesterday the horse that was carrying my
+instruments broke away from the man who was leading him, burst the
+girths, and threw the saddlebags on the ground. The instruments were very
+much injured, in fact very nearly ruined; the sextant being put out of
+adjustment, has taken me all day to repair, and I am not sure now whether
+it is correct or not. It is a great misfortune. Wind north; clouds
+north-east.
+
+Friday, 16th March, The Peake. Saddled and started to cross the Peake
+about three miles to the south-west, but had a fearful job in doing so,
+the banks being so boggy, and the current so strong. The horses could
+hardly keep on their feet, and most of them were up to their
+saddle-flaps, and some under water altogether. One poor old fellow we
+were obliged to leave in it, as he was unable to get out, and we were
+unable to help him, although we tried for hours. He is of very little use
+to me, for he has never recovered his trip to Moolloodoo and back. He has
+had nothing to carry since we started, and seemed to be improving every
+day. I wish now that I had left him at Chambers Creek along with the
+grey, but as he looked in better condition, I thought he would mend on
+the journey, and I intended him to bring the horses in every morning,
+when we got further out. We have been from 10 a.m. to 3.30 p.m. in
+getting across, including the time spent in trying to extricate Billy. I
+cannot proceed further to-day, and have therefore camped on the west side
+of the springs that we saw from the last encampment, which I named
+Kekwick Springs. There are six springs. The largest one will require to
+be opened; the reeds on it are very thick, and from ten to twelve feet in
+height. We tried again to get the horse on shore, but could not manage
+it; the more we try to extricate him, the worse he gets. I have left him;
+I do not think he will survive the night. It is now sundown, and raining
+heavily; the night looks very black and stormy. Wind from the south-west.
+
+Saturday, 17th March, Kekwick Springs. About 8 o'clock last evening the
+wind changed to the north-west, and we had some very heavy rain, which
+lasted the greater part of the night. Early in the morning the wind
+changed again to the south-east, with occasional showers. At sunrise it
+looked very stormy. I must be off as soon as possible out of this boggy
+place. The old horse is still alive, but very weak. The water has lowered
+during the night. If no more rain falls to the south-west it will soon be
+dry, when he may have a chance of getting out. I cannot remain longer to
+assist him; it would only be putting the rest of my horses in danger. I
+would have remained here to-day to have dried my provisions, but the
+appearance of the weather will not allow me. They must take their chance.
+Started on a north-west course for the Neale. At fifteen miles struck it,
+and changed to the west to a creek coming south from the stony rises. The
+banks of the Neale are very boggy. The first four miles to-day were along
+the top of a sandy rise, with swampy flats on each side, with a number of
+reeds growing in them, also rushes and water-grass. At four miles was a
+strong rise, but before we arrived at it we had to cross one of the
+swamps, in which we encountered great difficulty. After many turnings and
+twistings, and being bogged up to the shoulders, we managed to get
+through all safe. It was fearfully hard work. For three miles, on the top
+of a stony rise, the country is poor (stones on the top of gypsum
+deposit), but after that it gradually improves, and towards the creek it
+becomes a good salt-bush country. Wind from the south-east; still very
+cloudy.
+
+Sunday, 18th March, Neale River. Wind south-east; heavy clouds. I
+observed a bulbous plant growing in this creek resembling the Egyptian
+arum; it was just springing. I will endeavour to get some of the seed, if
+I can. I hoped we should have got our provisions dried to-day, but it was
+so showery we could not get it done. The creek is so boggy that we cannot
+cross it, and must follow it round to-morrow. A sad accident has happened
+to my plans. There was a small hole in the case that contains them, which
+I did not observe, and in crossing the Peake the water gained admittance
+and completely saturated them; it is a great misfortune. Sundown: still
+raining; wind same direction.
+
+Monday, 19th March, Neale River. Rained during the night, and looks very
+stormy this morning. Followed the Neale round to where it goes through
+the gap in Hanson range; in places it was rather boggy, but good
+travelling in this wet weather--firmer than I expected. We had much
+difficulty in crossing some of the side creeks. Camped on the south side
+of the gap. Wind south-east; cloudy, with little rain.
+
+Tuesday, 20th March, Neale River Gap, Hanson Range. Wind south-east; a
+few showers during the night. Still no chance of getting my provisions
+dried. It cleared off about noon, and became a fine day. Followed the
+Neale round, and camped on one of the side creeks coming from the south
+of west. Ground still soft. Wind south-east. Saw some smoke in the hills
+this morning, but no natives. Good country along both sides of the range
+on the west side of the Neale.
+
+Wednesday, 21st March, Neale River. Beautiful sunshine. Shall remain here
+to-day, in order to dry my provisions. On examining them I find that a
+quantity of our dried meat is quite spoiled, which is a great
+loss--another wet day, and we should have lost the half of it.
+
+Thursday, 22nd March, Side Creek of the Neale River. Wind south-west;
+clear sky. I intended to have gone north-west from this point, but, in
+attempting to cross the creek, we found it impassable. My horse got
+bogged at the first start, and we had some difficulty in getting him out.
+We were obliged to follow the creek westward for seven miles, where it
+passes between two high hills connected with the range. We managed at
+last, with great labour and difficulty, to get across without accident.
+At this place four creeks join the main one, and spread over a mile in
+breadth, with upwards of twenty boggy water-courses; water running. It
+has taken us five hours, from the time we started, to cross it. The
+principal creek comes from the south-west. I ascended the two hills to
+get a view of the surrounding country, and I could see the creek coming
+from a long way off in that direction. At this point the range seems
+broken or detached into numerous small ranges and isolated hills. I now
+changed my course to north-west, over table land of a light-brown colour,
+with stones on the surface; the vegetation was springing all over it and
+looking beautifully green. At six miles on this course camped on a myall
+creek. The work for the horses has been so very severe to-day that I have
+been induced to camp sooner than I intended. Wind south.
+
+Friday, 23rd March, Myall Creek. Wind south. Started on the same course,
+north-west. At three miles crossed another tributary--gum and myall. The
+country, before we struck the creek, was good salt-bush country, with a
+plentiful supply of grass. The soil was of a light-brown colour, gypsum
+underneath, and stones on the surface, grass and herbs growing all round
+them. After crossing the creek, which was boggy, we again ascended a low
+table land of the same description. At ten miles came upon a few low sand
+rises, about a mile in breadth. We then struck a creek, another
+tributary, spread over a large plain, very boggy, with here and there
+patches of quicksand. We had great difficulty in getting over it, but at
+last succeeded without any mishap. We then entered a thick scrubby
+country of mulga and other shrubs; the soil now changed to a dark red,
+covered splendidly with grass. After the first mile the scrub became much
+thinner; ground slightly undulating. After crossing this good country, at
+twenty miles we struck a large creek running very rapidly at five miles
+per hour; breadth of water one hundred feet, with gum-trees on the bank.
+From bank to bank it was forty-four yards wide. This seemed to be only
+one of the courses. There were other gum-trees on the opposite side, and
+apparently other channels. Wind south. A few clouds from the north-west.
+
+Saturday, 24th March, Large Gum-Tree Creek. Found it impossible to cross
+the Neale here; the banks were too boggy and steep. We therefore followed
+it round on a west course for three miles, and found that it came a
+little more from the north. Changed to 290 degrees, after trying in vain
+to cross the creek at this point. At about four or five miles
+south-south-west from this point there are two high peaks of a low range.
+The higher one I have named Mount Ben, and the range Head's Range; its
+general bearing is north-west to opposite this point; it turns then more
+to the west. I can see another spur further to the west, trending
+north-west. At four miles and a half after leaving we found a ford, and
+got the horses across all safe. I then changed to the north-west again,
+through a scrubby country--mulga, acacia, hakea, salt bush, and numerous
+others, with a plentiful supply of grass. The soil is of a red sandy
+nature, very loose, and does not retain water on the surface. We had
+great difficulty in getting through, many places being so very thick with
+dead mulga. We have seen no water since we left the creek. Distance,
+eighteen miles. I was obliged to camp without water for ourselves. As we
+crossed the Neale we saw fish in it of a good size, about eight inches
+long, from which I should say that the water is permanent. I shall have
+to run to the west to-morrow, for there is no appearance of this scrubby
+country terminating. I must have a whole day of it.
+
+Sunday, 25th March, Mulga Scrub. I can see no termination, on this
+course, to this thick scrub. I can scarcely see one hundred yards before
+me. I shall therefore bear to the west, cut the Neale River, and see what
+sort of country is in that direction. At ten miles made it; the water
+still running, but not so rapidly. The gum-trees still existed in its
+bed, and there were large pools of water on the side courses. We had the
+same thick scrub to within a quarter of a mile of the creek, where we met
+a line of red sand hills covered with a spinifex. The range on the
+south-west side of the creek seemed to terminate here, and become low
+table land, apparently covered with a thick scrub, the creek coming more
+from the north. I did not like the appearance of the spinifex, an
+indication of desert to the westward. Camped on the creek. Wind
+north-west; heavy clouds from the same direction.
+
+Monday, 26th March, The Neale River West. I am obliged to remain here
+to-day to repair damages done to the packs and bags, which have been torn
+all to pieces; it will take the whole of the day to put them in order. We
+have seen very few signs of natives visiting this part of the country. I
+shall go north to-morrow and try to get through this scrub. Wind south,
+sky overcast with heavy clouds; looks very like rain.
+
+Tuesday, 27th March, West Neales. Rained very heavily during the night,
+and is still doing so, but less copiously. About noon it cleared up a
+little. I have sent Kekwick to get a notion of the country on the other
+side of the low range, while I endeavour to obtain an observation of the
+sun. The range is scrubby, composed of a light-coloured and dark-red
+conglomerate volcanic rock, easily broken. The view from it is not
+extensive. At a mile from the creek the sand ceases, and stony ground
+succeeds up to the range. Feed excellent south-west from the camp. To the
+eastward rugged hills, apparently with fine open grass and forest lands.
+Numerous rows of water holes visible. To the south-east, country more
+open. To the south-south-east and south still the same good country. From
+south to west the same; hills to the west from five to eight miles
+distant. View from another hill north-west two miles and a half. The
+hills on the west still continue towards the north-west, but become
+lower. Country scrubby, with occasional patches of open grass land. Creek
+coming in from north-north-west. From north-west to north-north-east
+mulga scrub. From north-north-east to east low range in the distance,
+like table land. Too cloudy to take an observation; occasional showers
+during the day. Wind south-south-east; still looking very black.
+Repairing my saddles; some of my horses are getting bad backs.
+
+Wednesday, 28th March, West Neale River. Started on a north course to get
+through the mulga scrub. At ten miles could see the range to the
+north-east. The scrubby land now became sand hills; I could see no high
+ground on ahead, the scrub becoming thicker; it seemed to be a country
+similar to that I passed through on my south-east course (first journey),
+and I think is a continuation of it. I therefore changed my course to the
+north-east range, bearing 35 degrees. After five miles through the same
+description of country, mulga scrub with plenty of grass, we arrived at
+water, where three creeks join, one from the south-west, one
+west-north-west, and the other from about north-west. The water was still
+running in the one from the west-north-west with large long water holes;
+also water holes in the other two; gum-trees in the creek. I suppose this
+to be the Frew; excellent feed on the banks of the creek up to the range,
+which is stony. I ascended the table range in order to have a view of the
+country round. To this point the range comes from east-south-east, but
+here it takes a turn to the east of north, all flat-topped and stony,
+with mulga bushes on the top and sides; the rocks are of a light, flinty
+nature. At about six miles north the country seems to be open and stony.
+That country I shall steer for to-morrow. To the north-east is the range,
+but it seems to drop into low table land; distant about fifteen miles. To
+the north-west and west is the thick mulga, scrubby country. There are
+numerous tracks of natives in the different creeks, quite fresh,
+apparently made to-day. Wind south-east; clouds.
+
+Thursday, 29th March, The Frew. Started on a north course. At one mile,
+after crossing a stony hill with mulga, we suddenly came upon the creek
+again; it winds round the hill. Here another branch joins it from the
+north, the other coming from the east of north. Along the base of the
+range there were very large water holes in both branches. The natives had
+evidently camped here last night; their fires were still alight; they
+seemed only just to have left. From the numerous fires I should think
+there had been a great number of natives here. All round about in every
+direction were numerous tracks. We also observed a number of winter
+habitations on the banks of the creek; also a large native grave,
+composed of sand, earth, wood, and stones. It was of a circular form,
+about four feet and a half high, and twenty to twenty-four yards in
+circumference. The mulga continued for about six miles; but at three
+miles we again crossed the north branch of the creek, coming now from the
+north-west. The mulga was not thick except on the top of the rises, where
+splendid grass was growing all through it. We now came upon the open
+stony country, with a few mulga creeks. There was a little salt bush, but
+an immense quantity of green grass, growing about a foot high, which gave
+to the country a beautiful appearance. It seemed to be the same all round
+as far as I could see. At fourteen miles we struck the other branch,
+where it joined, with splendid reaches of water, to the main one, which
+now came from the west of north, and continued to where our line cut the
+east branch. This seems to be the place where it takes its rise. Camped
+for the night. The whole of the country that we have travelled through
+to-day is the best for grass that I have ever gone through. I have
+nowhere seen its equal. From the number of natives, from there being
+winter and summer habitations, and from the native grave, I am led to
+conclude the water there is permanent. The gum-trees are large. I saw
+kangaroo-tracks.
+
+Friday, 30th March, Small Branch of The Frew. Course north. At two miles
+and a half changed to 332 degrees to a distant hill, apparently a range
+of flat-topped hills. At sixteen miles crossed a large gum creek running
+to the south of east; it spreads out over a flat between rough hills of
+half a mile wide. The bed is very sandy; it will not retain water long.
+On the surface it very much resembles the Douglas, but is broader, and
+the gum-trees much larger. There were some rushes growing in its bed. I
+have named it the Ross. We then ascended the low range for which I had
+been steering. Four miles from the creek it is rough and stony, composed
+of igneous rock, with scrub, mulga, and plenty of grass quite to the top.
+To continue this course would lead me again into the mulga scrub, where I
+do not want to get if I can help it. It is far worse than guiding a
+vessel at sea; the compass requires to be constantly in hand. I again
+changed to the north, which appears to be open in the distance. I could
+see another range of flat-topped hills. After crossing over several small
+spurs coming from the range, and a number of small creeks, volcanic, and
+stony, we struck another large gum creek coming from the south of west,
+and running to the south-east. It was a fine creek. These courses of
+water spread over a grassy plain a mile wide; the water holes were long
+and deep, with numerous plants growing on their banks, indicating
+permanent water. The wild oats on the bank of the creek were four feet
+high. The country gone over to-day, although stony, was completely
+covered with grass and salt bush; it was even better than that passed
+yesterday. Some of the grass resembled the drake, some the wild wheat,
+and some rye--the same as discovered by Captain Sturt. There is a light
+shade over the horizon from south-east to north-west, indicating the
+presence of a lake in that direction. I have named it after my friend Mr.
+Stevenson. There are small fish in the holes of this creek, and mussel
+shells, also crabs about two inches by one inch and a half.
+
+Saturday, 31st March, The Stevenson. I am obliged to remain here to-day;
+my horses require shoeing. The country cuts up the shoes very much.
+
+Sunday, 1st April, The Stevenson. I find to-day that my right eye, from
+the long continuation of bad eyes, is now become useless to me for taking
+observations. I now see two suns instead of one, which has led me into an
+error of a few miles. I trust to goodness my other eye will not become
+the same; as long as it remains good, I can do. Wind east; cool. Heavy
+clouds.
+
+Monday, 2nd April, The Stevenson. Started at 8 o'clock; course 355
+degrees to distant hills. At six miles we struck a gum creek with water
+in it, but not permanent. At ten miles we crossed another, running
+between rugged hills; a little water coming from the west and running
+east-south-east through a mass of hills. At twelve miles crossed a valley
+a quarter of a mile broad, through which a gum creek runs, with an
+immense quantity of drift timber lying on its banks. At twenty miles
+arrived at the first part of the range, and at twenty-eight miles camped
+on a gum creek running east and coming from the south of west. The first
+three miles of to-day's journey were over good country; it then became
+rather scrubby, with numerous small creeks and valleys running to the
+east. Plenty of grass and salt-bush, with gravel, ironstone, and lime on
+the surface. At a mile before we made the rugged creek the ironstone
+became less, and a hard white stone took its place, and continued to the
+range, on which it is also found. Gypsum, chalk, ironstone, quartz, and
+other stones, are the chief materials of which it and the other hills are
+composed. There are also a few of a hard red sandstone. The range is
+broken, and running nearly east and west. The country round is slightly
+undulating; numerous small creeks running to the eastward, with a deal of
+grass and salt-bush. No water in this creek. Camped without. Wind east.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd April, Gum Creek, South of Range. Ascended the hill at three
+miles from last night's camp. The country very rough, stony, and scrubby
+to the base. The view from it is very extensive. I have named it Mount
+Beddome, after S. Beddome, Esquire, of Adelaide. To the west is another
+broken range, about fifteen miles distant, of a dark-red colour, running
+nearly north and south. The country between is apparently open, with
+patches of scrub. A gum creek comes from the south-west and runs some
+distance to the north-east; it then turns to the east. In the distant
+west appears a dense scrub. On a bearing of 330 degrees there is a large
+isolated table hill, for which I shall shape my course, to see if I can
+get an entrance that way. To the north are a number of broken hills and
+peaks with scrub between; they are of every shape and size. To the east
+another flat-topped range; country between also scrubby; apparently open.
+Close to the range, distant about twenty miles saw hills in the far
+distance; to the east another flat-topped small range; between it and the
+other the creek seems to run. The highest point of it bears 80 degrees,
+and I have named it Mount Daniel, after Mr. Daniel Kekwick, of Adelaide.
+From east to south-east the country is open and grassy; low ranges in the
+distance. Saw some rain water, bearing 30 degrees, to which I will go,
+and give the horses a drink; they had none last night. Distance, two
+miles. Obtained an observation of the sun, 118 degrees 17 minutes 30
+seconds. At six miles crossed the broad bed of a large gum creek; gravel;
+no water. At eight miles the red sand hills commence, covered with
+spinifex; and on the small flats mulga scrub, which continues to the base
+of the hill. Red loose sand; no water. Distance, twenty miles from Mount
+Beddome to this hill. The country good, until we get among the spinifex.
+
+Wednesday, 4th April, Mount Humphries. At break of day ascended the
+mount, which is composed of a soft white coarse sandstone. On the top is
+a quantity of water-worn quartz, cemented into large masses. The view is
+much the same as from Mount Beddome, broken ranges all round the horizon,
+and apparently a dense scrub from south-west to west. It then becomes an
+open and grassy country, with alternate patches of scrub. I can see a gum
+creek about two miles distant; I can also see water in it, which the
+horses have not yet discovered. I shall therefore go in that direction,
+and give them a drink. To the north and eastward the country appears
+good. Went to the aforesaid water, to see if there is any that I can
+depend upon. On my return, wanting to correct my instrument, which met
+with an accident three or four days ago, by the girths getting under the
+horse's belly (he bolted and kicked it off), I sent Kekwick to examine
+the creek that I saw coming from the north. He says there is plenty of
+water to serve our purpose. The creek is very large, with the finest
+gum-trees we have yet seen, all sizes and heights. This seems to be a
+favourite place for the natives to camp, as there are eleven worleys in
+one encampment. We saw here a number of new parrots, the black cockatoo,
+and numerous other birds. The creek runs over a space of about two miles,
+coming from the west; the bed sandy. After leaving it, on a bearing of
+329 degrees, for nine miles, we passed over a plain of as fine a country
+as any man would wish to see--a beautiful red soil covered with grass a
+foot high; after that it becomes a little sandy. At fifteen miles we got
+into some sand hills, but the feed was still most abundant. I have not
+passed through such splendid country since I have been in the colony. I
+only hope it may continue. The creek I have named the Finke, after
+William Finke, Esquire, of Adelaide, my sincere and tried friend, and one
+of the liberal supporters of the different explorations I have had the
+honour to lead. Wind south-east. Cloudy.
+
+Thursday, April 5th, Good Country. Started on the same course to some
+hills, through sand hills and spinifex for ten miles. Halted for half an
+hour to obtain an observation of the sun, 117 degrees 6 minutes. Within
+the last mile or two we have passed a few patches of shea-oak, growing
+large, having a very rough and thick bark, nearly black. They have a
+dismal appearance. The spinifex now ceased, and grass began to take its
+place as we approached the hills. From the top of the hill the view is
+limited, except to the south-west, where, in the far distance, is a long
+range. The country between seems to be scrub, red sand hills, and
+spinifex. To the west the country is open, but at five miles is
+intercepted by the point of the range that I am about to cross. To the
+north-west and east is a mass of flat-topped hills, of every size and
+shape, running always to the east. Camped on the head of a small gum
+creek, among the hills, which are composed of the same description of
+stones as the others. This water hole is three feet deep, and will last a
+month or so. The native cucumber is growing here.
+
+Friday, 6th April, Small Gum Creek in Range of Hills. Started on the same
+course, 330 degrees, to a remarkable hill, which has the appearance at
+this distance of a locomotive engine with its funnel. For three miles the
+country is very good, but after that high sand hills succeeded, covered
+with spinifex. At six miles we got to one of the largest gum creeks I
+have yet seen. It is much the same as the one we saw on the 4th, and the
+water in it is running. Great difficulty in crossing it, its bed being
+quicksand. We were nearly across, when I saw a black fellow among the
+bushes; I pulled up, and called to him. At first he seemed at a loss to
+know where the sound came from. As soon, however, as he saw the other
+horses coming up, he took to his heels, and was off like a shot, and we
+saw no more of him. As far as I can judge, the creek comes from the
+south-west, but the sand hills are so high, and the large black shea-oak
+so thick, that I cannot distinguish the creek very well. These trees look
+so much like gums in the distance; some of them are very large, as also
+are the gums in the creek. Numerous tracks of blacks all about. It is the
+upper part of the Finke, and at this point runs through high sand hills
+(red), covered with spinifex, which it is very difficult to get the
+horses through. We passed through a few patches of good grassy country.
+In the sand hills the oak is getting more plentiful. We were
+three-quarters of an hour in crossing the creek, and obtained an
+observation of the sun, 116 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds. We then
+proceeded on the same course towards the remarkable pillar, through high,
+heavy sand hills, covered with spinifex, and, at twelve miles from last
+night's camp, arrived at it. It is a pillar of sandstone, standing on a
+hill upwards of one hundred feet high. From the base of the pillar to its
+top is about one hundred and fifty feet, quite perpendicular; and it is
+twenty feet wide by ten feet deep, with two small peaks on the top. I
+have named it Chambers Pillar, in honour of James Chambers, Esquire, who,
+with William Finke, Esquire, has been my great supporter in all my
+explorations. To the north and north-east of it are numerous remarkable
+hills, which have a very striking effect in the landscape; they resemble
+nothing so much as a number of old castles in ruins; they are standing in
+the midst of sand hills. Proceeded, still on the same course, through the
+sand rises, spinifex, and low sandstone hills, at the foot of which we
+saw some rain water, where I camped. To the south-west are some high
+hills, through which I think the Finke comes. I would follow it up, but
+the immense quantity of sand in its bed shows that it comes from a sandy
+country, which I wish to avoid if I can. Wind south-east. Heavy clouds;
+very like rain.
+
+Saturday, 7th April, Rain Water under Sandstone Hills. Started on the
+same course 330 degrees, over low sand rises and spinifex, for six miles.
+It then became a plain of red soil, with mulga bushes, and for seven
+miles was as fine a grassed country as any one would wish to look at; it
+could be cut with a scythe. Dip of the country to the east, sand hills to
+the west; afterwards it became alternate sand hills and grassy plains,
+mulga, mallee, and black oak. From the top of one of the sand hills, I
+can see a range which our line will cut; I shall make to the foot of that
+to-night, and I expect I shall find a creek with water there. Proceeded
+through another long plain sloping towards the creek, and covered with
+grass. At about one mile from the creek we again met with sand hills and
+spinifex, which continued to it. Arrived and camped; found water. It is
+very broad, with a sandy bottom, which will not retain water long;
+beautiful grass on both banks. Wind east, and cool.
+
+Sunday, 8th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. I have named this creek the Hugh,
+and the range James Range. It is scrubby on this side and is not
+flat-topped as all the others have been, which indicates a change of
+country. On the other side the bearing is nearly east and west. Examined
+the creek, but cannot find sufficient water to depend upon for any length
+of time; the gum-trees are large. Numerous parrots, black cockatoos, and
+other birds. Wind east; very cold during the night.
+
+Monday, 9th April, The Hugh Gum Creek. Started for the highest point of
+the James range. At four miles arrived on the top, through a very thick
+scrub of mulga; the range is composed of soft red sandstone, long blocks
+of it lying on the side. To the east, apparently red sand hills, beyond
+which are seen the tops of other hills to the north-east. On the
+north-west the view is intercepted by a high, broken range, with two very
+remarkable bluffs about the centre. I shall direct my course to the east
+bluff, which is apparently the higher of the two. In the intermediate
+country are three lower ranges, between which are flats of green grass,
+and red sand hills. To the west are grassy flats next to the creek;
+beyond these are seen the tops of distant ranges and broken hills; at
+about six miles the Hugh seems to turn more to the north, towards a very
+rough range of red sandstone. We then descended into a grassy flat with a
+few gum-trees. We have had a very great difficulty in crossing the range,
+and now I am again stopped by another low range of the same description,
+which is nearly perpendicular--huge masses of red sandstone on its side,
+and in the valley a number of old native camps. After following the range
+three miles, we at last found out a place to cross it. Although this is
+not half the height of James range, we encountered far more difficulty;
+the scrub was very dense, a great quantity having withered and fallen
+down: we could scarcely get the horses to face it. Our course was also
+intercepted by deep, perpendicular ravines, which we were obliged to
+round after a great deal of trouble, having our saddlebags torn to
+pieces, and our skin and clothes in the same predicament. We arrived at
+the foot nearly naked, and got into open sandy rises and valleys, with
+mulga and plenty of grass, among which there is some spinifex growing. At
+sundown, after having gone about eight miles further, we made a large gum
+creek, in which we found some water; it is very broad, with a sand and
+gravel bottom. Camped, both men and horses being very tired.
+
+Tuesday, 10th April, Gum Creek, Bend of the Hugh. I find our saddle-bags
+and harness are so much torn and broken that I cannot proceed until they
+are repaired. I am compelled with great reluctance to remain here to-day.
+This creek is running to the west. On ascending a sand hill this morning,
+I find that it is the Hugh (which seems to drain the sand hills) that we
+saw to the east from the top of James range. There is another branch
+between us and the high ranges. At about four miles west it seems to
+break through the rough range and join the Hugh. A large number of native
+encampments here, and rushes are growing in and about the creek: there is
+plenty of water.
+
+Wednesday, 11th April, Bend of the Hugh. Got the things put pretty well
+to rights, and started towards the high bluff. I find that my poor little
+mare, Polly, has got staked in the fetlock-joint, and is nearly dead
+lame; but I must proceed. At six miles and a half we again crossed the
+Hugh, and at another mile found it coming through the range, which is a
+double one. The south range is red sandstone, the next is hard white
+stone, and also red sandstone, with a few hills of ironstone; a
+well-grassed valley lying between. The two gorges are rocky, and in some
+places perpendicular, with some gum-trees growing on the sides. The
+cucumber plant thrives here in great quantities, and water is abundant.
+At twelve miles we got through both the gorges of the range, which I have
+named the Waterhouse Range, after the Honourable the Colonial Secretary.
+The country between last night's camp and the range is a red sandy soil,
+with a few sand hills, on which is growing the spinifex, but the valleys
+between are broad and beautifully grassed. At fifteen miles again crossed
+the Hugh, coming from the east, with splendid gum-trees of every size
+lining the banks. The pine was also met with here for the first time.
+There is a magnificent hole of water here, long and deep, with rushes
+growing round it. I think it is a spring; the water seems to come from
+below a large bed of conglomerate quartz. I should say it was permanent.
+Black cockatoos and other birds abound here, and there are numbers of
+native tracks all about. I hoped to-day to have gained the top of the
+bluff, which is still seven or eight miles off, and appears to be so very
+rough that I anticipate a deal of difficulty in crossing it. I am forced
+to halt at this bend of the creek, in consequence of the little mare
+becoming so lame that she is unable to proceed further to-day. Our hands
+are very bad from being torn by the scrub, and the flies are a perfect
+torment. Indications of scurvy are beginning to show themselves upon us.
+Wind west; cool night.
+
+Thursday 12th April, The Hugh. Started for the bluff. At eight miles we
+again struck the creek coming from the west, and several other gum creeks
+coming from the range and joining it. We have now entered the lower hills
+of the range. Again have we travelled through a splendid country for
+grass, but as we approached the creek it became a little stony. At twelve
+miles we found a number of springs in the range. Here I obtained an
+observation of the sun. As we approached near the bluff, our route became
+very difficult; we could not get up the creek for precipices, and were
+obliged to turn in every direction. About two miles from where I obtained
+the observation, we arrived with great difficulty at the foot of the
+bluff; it has taken us all the afternoon. I expected to have gone to the
+top of it to-night, but it is too late. It will take half a day, it is so
+high and rough. We are camped at a good spring, where I have found a very
+remarkable palm-tree, with light-green fronds ten feet long, having small
+leaves a quarter of an inch in breadth, and about eight inches in length,
+and a quarter of an inch apart, growing from each side, and coming to a
+sharp point. They spread out like the top of the grass-tree, and the
+fruit has a large kernel about the size of an egg, with a hard shell; the
+inside has the taste of a cocoa-nut, but when roasted is like a potato.
+Here we have also the india-rubber tree, the cork-tree, and several new
+plants. This is the only real range that I have met with since leaving
+the Flinders range. I have named it the McDonnell Range, after his
+Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, as a token of my
+gratitude for his kindness to me on many occasions. The east bluff I have
+named Brinkley Bluff, after Captain Brinkley, of Adelaide, and the west
+one I have named Hanson Bluff, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of
+Adelaide. The range is composed of gneiss rock and quartz.
+
+Friday, 13th April, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. At sunrise I
+ascended the bluff, which is the most difficult hill I have ever climbed;
+it took me an hour and a half to reach the top. It is very high, and is
+composed principally of igneous rock, with a little ironstone, much the
+same as the ranges down the country. On reaching the top, I was
+disappointed; the view was not so good as I expected, in consequence of
+the morning being so very hazy. I have, however, been enabled to decide
+what course to take. To the south-west the Waterhouse and James ranges
+seem to join. At west-south-west they are hidden by one of the spurs of
+the McDonnell range. To the north-west the view is intercepted by another
+point of this range, on which is a high peak, which I have named Mount
+Hay, after the Honourable Alexander Hay, the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
+About five miles to the north are numerous small spurs, beyond which
+there is an extensive wooded or scrubby plain; and beyond that, in the
+far distance, is another range, broken by a high conical hill, bearing
+about west-north-west, to which I will go, after getting through the
+range. To the north-east is the end of another range coming from the
+south. On this, which I have named Strangway Range, after the Honourable
+the Attorney-General, is another high hill. Beyond is a luminous, hazy
+appearance, as if it proceeded from a large body of water. A little more
+to the east there are three high hills; the middle one, which I should
+think is upwards of thirty miles from us, is the highest, and is bluff at
+both ends; it seems to be connected with Strangway range. To the east is
+a complete mass of ranges, with the same luminous appearance behind them.
+I had a terrible job in getting down the bluff; one false step and I
+should have been dashed to pieces in the abyss below; I was thankful when
+I arrived safely at the foot. I find that I have taken the wrong creek to
+get through the bluff. The Hugh still comes in that way, but more to the
+westward. Started at 10 o'clock; the hills very bad to get over; wind
+easterly. Camped at sundown on the creek; there is an abundance of water,
+which apparently is permanent, from the number of rushes growing all
+about it. The feed is splendid. There are a number of fresh native
+tracks.
+
+Saturday, 14th April, McDonnell Range. Started at 8 o'clock to follow the
+creek, as it seems to be the best way of getting through the other
+ranges; but, as it comes too much from the east, I must leave it, and get
+through at some of the low hills further down. This we at last contrived
+to do after a severe struggle. It has taken us the whole day to come
+about five miles. We are now camped, north of the bluff, at a gorge, in
+which there is a good spring of water; the creeks now run north from the
+range.
+
+Sunday, 15th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. I ascended the
+high hill on the east side of the gorge; the atmosphere being much
+clearer, I got a better view of the country. To the north-west, between
+the McDonnell range and the conical hill north-north-west, is a large
+plain, apparently scrub; no hills on the horizon, but a light shade in
+the far distance; the conical hill bears 340 degrees from this; it
+appears to be high. From the foot of this, for about five miles, is an
+open grassy country, with a few small patches of bushes. A number of gum
+creeks come from the ranges, and seem to empty themselves in the plains.
+The country in the ranges is as fine a pastoral hill-country as a man
+would wish to possess; grass to the top of the hills, and abundance of
+water through the whole of the ranges. I forgot to mention that the nut
+we found on the south side of the range is not fit to eat; it caused both
+men to vomit violently. I ate one, but it had no bad effect on me.
+
+Monday, 16th April, The North Gorge of McDonnell Range. Started at 9
+o'clock to cross the scrub for the distant high peak. For five miles the
+plain was open and well grassed: afterwards it became thick, with mulga
+bushes and other scrubs. At twenty miles we again encountered the
+spinifex, which continued until we camped after dark. Distance, thirty
+miles. Met with no creek or watercourse after leaving the McDonnell
+ranges.
+
+Tuesday, 17th April, In the Scrub. Got an early start, and continued
+through the scrub and spinifex on the same course, 340 degrees. At three
+miles passed a small stony hill, about two miles to the west of our
+course. At eighteen miles saw to the west two prominent bluff hills, and
+two or three small ones, about ten miles distant from us. At thirty-two
+miles crossed a strong rise. There are three reap-hook hills about three
+miles west, their steep side facing the south. At sundown reached the
+hills. At two miles passed a small sandy gum creek, the only watercourse
+we have seen between the two ranges. Followed the range to the north-west
+till after dark, hoping to find a gum creek coming from the range, but
+without success; nothing but rocky and sandy watercourses. Camped. The
+poor horses again without water; I trust that I shall find some for them
+in the morning; if not, I shall have to return to the McDonnell range.
+Very little rain seems to have fallen here; the grass is all dried up.
+The spinifex continues until within a mile of the range. The small gum
+creek that we passed is running south-west into the scrub.
+
+Wednesday, 18th April, Under the High Peak, Mount Freeling. At daybreak
+sent Kekwick in search of water, while I ascended the high mount to see
+if any could be seen from that place. To my great delight I beheld a
+little in a creek on the other side of the range, bearing 113 degrees,
+about a mile and a half. I find this is not quite the highest point of
+the range; there is another hill, still higher, about fifteen miles
+further to the north-north-west. About two miles off I can see a gum
+creek looking very green, coming from the range in the direction in which
+I have sent Kekwick, where I hope he will find water. The country from
+west to north-east is a mass of hills and broken ranges; to the
+south-west high broken ranges. To the north-north-east is another hill,
+with a plain of scrub between. To the south-east scrub, with tops of
+hills in the far distance. Brinkley Bluff bears 166 degrees and Mount Hay
+186 degrees. Returned to the camp, and find to my great satisfaction that
+Kekwick has discovered some water in the creek about two miles off. I am
+very glad of it, for I am sure that some of my horses would not have
+stood the journey back without it. I must not leave this range without
+endeavouring to find a permanent water, as no rain seems to have fallen
+to the north of us; everything is so dry, one would think it was the
+middle of summer. The sun is also very hot, but the nights and mornings
+are cool. Wind east. Old tracks and native camps about. The range is
+composed of the same description of rocks as the McDonnell ranges, with
+rather more quartz than mica. We here found new shrubs and flowers, also
+a small brown pigeon with a crest. I have built a small cone of stones on
+the peak, and named it Mount Freeling, after the Honourable Colonel
+Freeling, Surveyor-General. The range I have called the Reynolds, after
+the Honourable Thomas Reynolds, the Treasurer.
+
+Thursday, 19th April, Mount Hugh. The horses separated during the night,
+and were not found until after one o'clock. Moved to the east side of the
+mount to where I had seen the water from the top. We found plenty of
+water in the gum creek which is the head of the one we crossed on Tuesday
+night, just before making the range. We were obliged to come a long way
+round before we could get to it, the hills being all rough sharp rocks,
+impassable for horses; abundance of grass with a little spinifex on the
+hills. At this camp I have marked a tree "J. M.D. S."; the cone of stones
+on the top of the mount bears 293 degrees. Ten miles distant in a branch
+creek about half a mile to the north of this is more water; and a little
+higher up, in a ledge of rocks, is a splendid reservoir of water, thirty
+yards in diameter and about one hundred yards in circumference. We could
+not get to the middle to try the depth, but where we tried it it was
+twelve feet deep. A few yards higher up is another ledge of rocks, behind
+which is a second reservoir, but smaller, having a drainage into the
+former one. Native tracks about. Wind north. I have named this Anna's
+Reservoir, after Mr. James Chambers' youngest daughter.
+
+Friday, 20th April, East Side of Mount Hugh. Started to the south-east to
+find a crossing place over the range; this was not an easy matter, from
+the roughness of the hills; at last, however, we got over it. On the
+other side we found a large gum creek with water in it, running to the
+north-east. Camped. The range is well grassed, with gum creeks coming
+from it, and a little mulga scrub. Here we have discovered a new tree,
+whose dark-green leaf has the shape of two wide prongs; the seed or bean,
+of which I have obtained a few, is of a red colour; the foliage is very
+thick. The stem of the largest we have seen is about eighteen inches in
+diameter. The wood is soft; when in the state of a bush it has thorns on
+it like a rose. Here we have also obtained some seed of the vegetable we
+have been using; we have found this vegetable most useful; it can be
+eaten as a salad, boiled as a vegetable, or cooked as a fruit. We have
+also some other seeds of new flowers. The bearing from this to the cone
+of stones on Hugh Mount, 233 degrees 45 minutes.
+
+Saturday, 21st April, Gum Creek, East Side of Mount Freeling. Started at
+half-past seven across the scrub to another high hill. For seven miles
+the scrub is open, and the land beautifully grassed. At twelve miles from
+the camp we crossed another gum creek, coming from the range; as far as I
+could see it ran to the north-east. After seven miles the scrub became
+much thicker. We had great difficulty in getting through, from the
+quantity of dead timber, which has torn our saddle-bags and clothes to
+pieces. There are a number of gum-trees, and the new tree that was found
+on Captain Sturt's expedition, 1844, but mulga predominates. At fourteen
+miles we struck a large gum plain, but after a short time again entered
+the scrub. At about twenty-two miles met another arm of the gum plains,
+with large granite rocks nearly level with the surface. We found rain
+water in the holes of these rocks. At thirty-two miles crossed the sandy
+bed of a large gum creek divided into a number of channels; too dark to
+see any water. Four miles further on, camped on a small gum creek with a
+little rain water; the creeks are running to the north-east. The soil is
+of a red sandy colour: the grass most abundant throughout the whole day's
+journey. Occasionally we met with a few hundred yards of spinifex. Wind
+south-east. Native tracks quite fresh in the scrub and plain; we also
+passed several old worleys.
+
+Sunday, 22nd April, Small Gum Creek, under Mount Stuart, Centre of
+Australia. To-day I find from my observations of the sun, 111 degrees 00
+minutes 30 seconds, that I am now camped in the centre of Australia. I
+have marked a tree and planted the British flag there. There is a high
+mount about two miles and a half to the north-north-east. I wish it had
+been in the centre; but on it to-morrow I will raise a cone of stones,
+and plant the flag there, and name it Central Mount Stuart. We have been
+in search of permanent water to-day, but cannot find any. I hope from the
+top of Central Mount Stuart to find something good to the north-west.
+Wind south. Examined a large creek; can find no surface water, but got
+some by scratching in the sand. It is a large creek divided into many
+channels, but they are all filled with sand; splendid grass all round
+this camp.
+
+Monday, 23rd April, Centre. Took Kekwick and the flag, and went to the
+top of the mount, but found it to be much higher and more difficult of
+ascent than I anticipated. After a deal of labour, slips, and knocks, we
+at last arrived on the top. It is quite as high as Mount Serle, if not
+higher. The view to the north is over a large plain of gums, mulga, and
+spinifex, with watercourses running through it. The large gum creek that
+we crossed winds round this hill in a north-east direction; at about ten
+miles it is joined by another. After joining they take a course more
+north, and I lost sight of them in the far-distant plain. To the
+north-north-east is the termination of the hills; to the north-east, east
+and south-east are broken ranges, and to the north-north-west the ranges
+on the west side of the plain terminate. To the north-west are broken
+ranges; and to the west is a very high peak, between which and this place
+to the south-west are a number of isolated hills. Built a large cone of
+stones, in the centre of which I placed a pole with the British flag
+nailed to it. Near the top of the cone I placed a small bottle, in which
+there is a slip of paper, with our signatures to it, stating by whom it
+was raised. We then gave three hearty cheers for the flag, the emblem of
+civil and religious liberty, and may it be a sign to the natives that the
+dawn of liberty, civilization, and Christianity is about to break upon
+them. We can see no water from the top. Descended, but did not reach the
+camp till after dark. This water still continues, which makes me think
+there must certainly be more higher up. I have named the range John
+Range, after my friend and well-wisher, John Chambers, Esquire, brother
+to James Chambers, Esquire, one of the promoters of this expedition.
+
+Tuesday, 24th April, Central Mount Stuart. Sent Kekwick in search of
+water, and to examine a hill that has the appearance of having a cone of
+stones upon it; meanwhile I made up my plan, and Ben mended the
+saddlebags, which were in a sad mess from coming through the scrub.
+Kekwick returned in the afternoon, having found water higher up the
+creek. He has also found a new rose of a beautiful description, having
+thorns on its branches, and a seed-vessel resembling a gherkin. It has a
+sweet, strong perfume; the leaves are white, but as the flower is
+withered, I am unable to describe it. The native orange-tree abounds
+here. Mount Stuart is composed of hard red sandstone, covered with
+spinifex, and a little scrub on the top. The white ant abounds in the
+scrubs, and we even found some of their habitations near the top of Mount
+Stuart.
+
+Wednesday, 25th April, Central Mount Stuart. There is a remarkable hill
+about two miles to the west, having another small hill at the north end
+in the shape of a bottle; this I have named Mount Esther, at the request
+of the maker of the flag. Started at 9 o'clock, on a course a little
+north of west, to the high peak that I saw from the top of Mount Stuart,
+which bears 272 degrees. My reason for going west is that I do not like
+the appearance of the country to the north for finding water; it seems to
+be sandy. From the peak I expect to find another stratum to take me up to
+the north-north-west. Around the mount and on the west side, the country
+is well grassed, and red sandy soil; no stones. To the north and south of
+our line are several isolated hills, composed principally of granite. At
+ten miles there is a quartz reef on the north side of the south hills. At
+twelve miles struck a gum creek coming from the south and running to the
+north; it has three channels. We found a little rain water in one, and
+camped, to enable us to finish the mending of the saddle-bags. Wind east;
+very cold morning and night. The large creek that flowed round Mount
+Stuart is named the Hanson, after the Honourable R. Hanson, of Adelaide.
+
+Thursday, 26th April, Gum Creek on West Course. Started at a quarter past
+8 o'clock on the same course for the high peak. At two miles crossed some
+low granite and quartz hills; and at four miles crossed a gum creek
+running to the north with sand and gravel beds. No water. The country
+then became difficult to get through, in consequence of the number of
+dead mulga bushes. At ten miles the grass ceased, and spinifex took its
+place, and continued to the banks of the next gum creek, which we crossed
+at twenty-two miles; the bed sandy, and divided into a number of
+channels, coming from the south-east, and running a little to the east of
+north, but no water in them. Native tracks in its bed. On the west side
+of the creek the grass again begins, and continues to the hills, where we
+arrived at five minutes to 7. Camped without water. There seems to have
+been very little rain here--the grass and everything else is quite dry.
+Distance, thirty-eight miles.
+
+Friday, 27th April, East Side of Mount Denison. Sent Kekwick to the
+south-west to a remarkable hill which I hope may yield some water, with
+orders to return immediately if he should find any nearer, so that we
+might get some for the horses. I waited till past 12, but he did not
+return, so I started, intending to go to the top of the mount. On getting
+to the north-east side of the ranges, I liked the appearance of the
+country for water, and seeing that the top of the mount was still some
+distance off, and that it would make it too late to return, I set to work
+myself to look for water. After an hour's search I was successful,
+finding some rain water in a gum creek coming from the hills. The natives
+must have been there quite recently, as their fires were still warm; and,
+as I had left the camp and provisions with only one man, I hurried back,
+had the horses saddled and packed, and brought them down to the water,
+leaving a note for Kekwick to follow in a west-north-west direction to a
+gum creek about three miles distant. Kekwick's search was also
+successful; he found permanent water under the high peak to which I sent
+him, and which I have named Mount Leichardt, in memory of that
+unfortunate explorer, whose fate is still a mystery. I have seen no trace
+of his having passed to the westward. Kekwick describes the water he has
+found as abundant and beautifully clear, springing out of conglomerate
+rock much resembling marble; its length is upwards of a quarter of a
+mile, falling into natural basins in the solid rock, some six feet in
+depth and of considerable capacity. The country round the base of the
+range is covered with the most luxuriant grass and vegetation. Mount
+Leichardt and the range are composed, at their base, of a soft
+conglomerate rock in immense irregular masses, heaped one on the other;
+the higher part where the spring appears is of the same conglomerate, but
+broad and solid, having smooth faces, which makes the ascent very
+difficult.
+
+Saturday, 28th April, Gum Creek under Mount Denison. As soon as the
+horses were caught I started for the top of the mount. I left my horse in
+a small rocky gum creek which I thought would lead me to the foot of the
+mount. At about a quarter of a mile from the mouth of the gorge, I came
+upon some water in a rocky hole, followed it up, and, two hundred yards
+further, was stopped by a perpendicular precipice with water trickling
+over it into a large reservoir. I had now to take to the hills, which
+were very rough, and after a deal of difficulty I arrived, as I thought,
+at the top, but to my disappointment I had to go down a fearfully steep
+gully. At it I went, and again I arrived, as I fancied, at the top, but
+here again was another gully to cross, and a rise still higher. I have at
+last arrived at the summit, after a deal of labour and many scratches.
+This is certainly the highest mountain I have yet ascended; it has taken
+me full three hours to get to the summit. The view is extensive, but not
+encouraging. Central Mount Stuart bears 95 degrees. Mount Leichardt, 155
+degrees 30 minutes. To the south, broken ranges with wooded plains before
+them, and in the far distance, scarcely visible, appears to be a very
+high mountain, a long, long way off. To the south-west the same
+description of range. About thirty miles to the west is a high mount with
+open country, and patches of woodland in the foreground. At the
+north-west there appears to be an immense open plain with patches of
+wood. To the north is another plain becoming more wooded to the
+north-east. As this is the highest mountain that I have seen in Central
+Australia, I have taken the liberty of naming it Mount Denison, after his
+Excellency Sir William Denison, K.C.B., Governor-General. The next range
+(bearing 334 degrees), being the last of the highest ones north, I have
+named Mount Barkly, after his Excellency Sir Henry Barkly,
+Governor-in-Chief of Victoria. When on the second highest point of this
+mount, I saw a native smoke rise up in the creek below, a short distance
+from where I had tied my horse. This naturally made me very anxious for
+his safety, and when I descended I was rejoiced to find him safe. The
+natives have been in the creek and on the mount: their tracks, which are
+quite fresh, lead me to conclude that they have been running. The descent
+was difficult, but I discovered a shorter route, and it has taken me two
+hours to come down. Arrived at the camp at 4.30, and found all right. I
+intended to have built a large cone of stones on the summit; but, when I
+arrived there, I was too much exhausted to do so. I have, however,
+erected a small one, placing a little paper below one of the stones, to
+show that a white man has been there. I have also marked a tree "J. M.D.
+S." on the creek where we are now camped. Mount Denison bears from here
+249 degrees.
+
+Sunday, 29th April, Gum Creek under Mount Denison. Latitude, 21 degrees
+48 minutes. Variation, 3 degrees 20 minutes east. Mount Denison and the
+surrounding hills are composed of a hard reddish-brown sandstone. About
+one hundred yards from the summit is a course of conglomerate, composed
+of stones from half an inch to four inches in diameter, having the
+appearance of being rounded at a former period by water. From the foot to
+the top of this course is about ten feet, and the breadth on the top is
+about twelve feet. There is red sandstone on the summit, with three or
+four pines growing. The mount and adjoining hill are covered with
+spinifex, but the plain is grassed. The wind has now changed to the west,
+and it is much hotter.
+
+Monday, 30th April, Under Mount Denison. The wind changed again to the
+south-east during the night, and is much colder. Started on a course, 315
+degrees, across the plain towards Mount Barkly. The highest point of the
+mount is eighteen miles distant from our camp on the creek. We had to
+round the west side of it, finding no water until we came upon a little
+in the gorge coming from the highest point. It was dark before we
+arrived, so that we could not take the horses up to-night. Wind
+south-east, blowing a hurricane, and very cold.
+
+Tuesday, 1st May, North-west Side of Mount Barkly. On examining the
+water, I find it is only a drainage from the rocks, and there is not more
+than two gallons for each horse. I ascended the hill, but could see
+nothing more than I had seen from Mount Denison. The base is composed of
+a hard red sandstone, the top of quartz rock. I do not like the
+appearance of the country before us. Started on a course of 335 degrees,
+and at six miles and a half came upon a large gum creek divided into
+numerous channels: searched it carefully, without finding any surface
+water; but I discovered a native well about four feet deep, in the east
+channel, close to a small hill of rocks. Cleared it out, and watered the
+horses with a quart pot, which took us long after dark--each horse
+drinking about ten gallons, and some of them more. Natives have been here
+lately, and from the tracks they seem to be numerous. We also observed
+the rose-coloured cockatoo. I have named this creek The Fisher, after Sir
+James Hurtle Fisher; it runs a little east of north.
+
+Wednesday, 2nd May, The Fisher. We did not start until 11 o'clock in
+consequence of it taking a long time to water the horses. We steered for
+some hills that I had seen from the top of the last two mounts. At
+thirteen miles arrived at the hills, but found them low, and no
+appearance of water. Changed my course west 35 degrees north to some
+higher hills. At 6.30 camped in the scrub without water. The country from
+Mount Denison to this is a light-red sandy soil, covered with spinifex,
+with very little grass, and is nearly a dead level. In some places it is
+scrubby, having a number of gum-trees, and the new tree of Captain Sturt
+growing all over it. From a distance it has the appearance of a good
+country, and is very deceiving; you constantly think you are coming upon
+a gum creek. Wind south-east; very cold at night and morning.
+
+Thursday, 3rd May, Spinifex and Gum Plains. Started on the same course,
+west 35 degrees north, and at four miles reached the top of the hills,
+which are low and composed of dark-red sandstone and quartz. The bearings
+to Mount Denison, 146 degrees; Mount Barkly, 142 degrees; to another hill
+west-north-west, 302 degrees, distant about ten miles, which I have named
+Mount Turnbull, after the late Gavin Turnbull, Esquire, Surgeon in the
+Indian Army. The morning is very hazy, and I cannot see distinctly;
+besides, my eyes are again very bad. The appearance of the country all
+round is that of having gum creeks everywhere. To the north there are
+some more low hills. A short distance off, on a bearing of 328 degrees,
+there appears to be a gum creek with something white as if it were water,
+so I shall change my course. At 3.50 camped, some of my horses being
+nearly done up from want of water, and having nothing to eat but
+spinifex. I have now come eighteen miles, and the plain has the same
+appearance now as when I first started--spinifex and gum-trees, with a
+little scrub occasionally. We are expecting every moment to come upon a
+gum creek, but hope is disappointed. I have not so much as seen a
+water-course since I left the Fisher, and how far this country may
+continue it is impossible to tell. I intended to have turned back sooner,
+but I was expecting every moment to meet with a creek. It is very
+alluring, and apt to lead the traveller into serious mistakes. I wish I
+had turned back earlier, for I am almost afraid that I have allowed
+myself to come too far. I am doubtful if all my horses will be able to
+get back to water. In rainy weather this country will not retain the
+water on the surface, and we have not so much as seen a clay-pan of the
+smallest dimensions. The gum-trees on this plain have a smooth white
+bark, and the leaves are some light-green and some dark. Most of the
+trees seem very healthy; there are very few dead ones about. To-morrow
+morning I must unwillingly retreat to water for my horses. There is no
+chance of getting to the north-west in this direction, unless this plain
+soon terminates. From what I could see there is little hope of its doing
+so for a long distance.
+
+Friday, 4th May, Gum and Spinifex Plains. At times this country is
+visited by blacks, but it must be seldom, as since we left the Fisher we
+have only seen the track of one, who seems to have come from the east,
+and to have returned in that direction. The spinifex in many places has
+been burnt, and the track of the native was peculiar--not broad and flat,
+as they generally are, but long and narrow, with a deep hollow in the
+foot, and the large toe projecting a good deal; the other in some
+respects more like the print of a white man than of a native. Had I
+crossed it the day before, I would have followed it. My horses are now
+suffering too much from the want of water to allow me to do so. If I did,
+and were not to find water to-night, I should lose the whole of the
+horses and our own lives into the bargain. I must now retreat to Mount
+Denison, which I do with great reluctance; it is losing so much time, and
+my provisions are limited. Started back at 7.10 a.m., and at thirty miles
+came upon a native well, with a little grass round it; the bottom was
+moist. Unsaddled, and turned the horses out. Commenced clearing out the
+well the best way we could, with a quart pot and a small tin dish, having
+unfortunately lost our shovel in crossing the McDonnell ranges. We had
+great difficulty in keeping the horses out while we cleared it. To our
+great disappointment we found the water coming in very slowly. We can
+only manage, in an hour and a half, to get about six gallons, which must
+be the allowance for each horse, and it will take us till to-morrow
+morning to water them all. One of us is required to be constantly with
+them to keep them back, and that he can hardly do; some of them will get
+away from him do all he can. Kekwick's horse was nearly done up before we
+reached this place; also one of the others. Those nearest to the
+cart-breed give in first.
+
+Saturday, 5th May, Native Well. Got all the horses watered by 11 o'clock
+a.m., and could only get about five gallons for each horse, although we
+were employed the whole of the night, and got no sleep. Started for the
+Fisher, and arrived at the native well at sundown. Were obliged to tie
+the horses up, to keep them from getting into it. We could scarcely get
+some of them as far as this, as they are quite done up. What was still
+worse, we found the native well had fallen in since we left. It cannot be
+helped: we must take things as they come. Commenced immediately to cut a
+number of stakes, rushes, and grass, to keep the sand back, and by 3
+o'clock in the morning we got them all watered, and very thankful we were
+to do so. It has been, and is still, bitter cold throughout the night and
+morning, the wind still coming from the south-east. We had a pot of tea,
+although we could ill afford it, and lay down and got a little sleep,
+completely tired and worn out with hard work and want of rest.
+
+Sunday, 6th May, The Fisher. Got up at daybreak and went to the well, but
+found that the rascals of horses had been there before us, and trodden in
+one side of the well. They had as much water last night and morning as
+they could drink, and the quantity that some of them drank was enormous.
+I had no idea that a horse could hold so much, yet still they want more.
+I shall remain here two days, put down more stakes, clear out the well,
+and give them as much as they will drink. During this trying time I have
+been very much pleased with the conduct of Kekwick and Ben; they have
+exerted themselves to the utmost, and everything has been done with the
+greatest alacrity and cheerfulness. Although they have only had two
+hours' sleep during the last two nights, there has not been a single word
+of dissatisfaction from either of them, which is highly gratifying to me.
+It is, indeed, a great pleasure to have men that will do their work
+without grumbling. Watered the horses as they came in. They do not now
+drink a fourth part of what they did at first.
+
+Monday, 7th May, The Fisher. Had a good night's rest, and felt recovered
+from the past fatigue. Started for the creek on the east side of Mount
+Denison, to the water at which we camped before, keeping to the north
+side of Mount Barkly in search of water, but could find none. Arrived at
+the creek after dark. Kekwick's horse is entirely done up; he had to get
+off and lead him for two miles. Another of the horses is nearly as bad,
+but he managed to get to the creek. We found the water greatly reduced,
+but still enough for us.
+
+Tuesday, 8th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I must remain here two
+days to allow the horses to recover. I am afraid if we have such another
+journey, I shall have to leave some of them behind. I do not know what is
+the cause of their giving in so soon; I have had horses that have
+suffered three times as much privation, and yet have held out. The light
+ones are all right; it is the heavy ones, of the cart-horse breed, that
+feel it most. I had been keeping them up on purpose for an occasion like
+this, and they all looked in first-rate condition, but the work of the
+past week has made a great alteration in some of them. I suppose the
+young grass is not yet strong enough for them. It is very vexing to be
+thus disappointed and delayed. To think that they should fail me at the
+very moment when I expected them to do their best, and after all the
+trouble and loss of time I have incurred in giving them short journeys!
+However, I cannot improve it by complaining, and must rest contented and
+hope for the best. Wind south-east. Storm brewing.
+
+Wednesday, 9th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Resting horses and
+putting our things in order. Wind blowing very strong from the
+south-east; it has continued nearly in the same quarter since March.
+
+Thursday, 10th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. I find that I must give
+the horses another day; they have not yet recovered, and I expect we
+shall have some more hard work for them. We have not quite finished
+mending.
+
+Friday, 11th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben was taken very ill
+during the night, and is still so bad that I am obliged to remain here
+another day. Afternoon: Ben feels much better, so I shall start
+to-morrow.
+
+Saturday, 12th May, Creek East of Mount Denison. Ben is better, and the
+horses look as if they can stand a little more hardship. Started at 8.20
+on a bearing of 28 degrees east of north, to see if I can get on in that
+direction. For fourteen miles our course was through mulga scrub and
+spinifex, in some places very thick. At twenty-seven miles camped without
+water. The country that we have passed over the last two days is
+apparently destitute of water, even in rainy weather. I do not think the
+ground would retain it a single day. Very little feed for the horses.
+
+Sunday, 13th May, Scrub and Gum Flat. I do not like the appearance of the
+country. As I can see no hope of obtaining water on this course, I shall
+change to the east, in order to cut the large gum creek that I crossed on
+the 26th ultimo, and, if I find water in it, to follow it out to wherever
+it goes. At three miles cut a small gum creek: searched for water both up
+and down, but could find none, nor any appearance of it. Still keeping my
+east course, we then passed through a very thick mulga scrub, and at ten
+miles struck a low range of hills, composed of quartz, with a conical
+peak, which I ascended. The prospect from this is very extensive, but
+disheartening, apparently the same sort of scrubby country that I have
+endeavoured to break through to the north-west. The view to the north is
+dismal; there are a few isolated hills, seemingly the termination of John
+range, and of the same formation as this that I am now on. To
+east-south-east there appears to be a creek, to which I shall now go. At
+three miles I reached what I had supposed to be a creek, but it is a
+small narrow gum flat which receives the drainage from this low range. We
+found a hole where there had been water, but it was all gone. I have
+named the peak Mount Rennie, after Major Rennie of the Indian army. In
+this small flat we shot a new macaw, which I shall carry with me, and
+preserve the skin, if we get to water to-night. The front part of the
+neck and underneath the wings is of a beautiful crimson hue, the back is
+of a light lead colour, the tail square, the beak smaller than a
+cockatoo's, and the crest the same as a macaw's. After leaving this flat,
+we passed through some scrub, and came upon another of the same
+description. Here I narrowly escaped being killed. My attention being
+engaged looking for water, my horse took fright at a wallaby, and rushed
+into some scrub, which pulled me from the saddle, my foot and the staff
+that I carry for placing my compass on catching in the stirrup-iron.
+Finding that he was dragging me, he commenced kicking at a fearful rate;
+he struck me on the shoulder joint, knocked my hat off, and grazed my
+forehead. I soon got clear, but found the kick on my shoulder very
+painful. Mounted again, and at seven miles we came upon some more low
+hills with another prominent peak of a dark-red sandstone. This I have
+named Mount Peake, after E.J. Peake, Esquire, of Adelaide. I now find
+that the gum creek which I crossed between Central Mount Stuart and Mount
+Denison runs out and forms the gum plains we have just passed. No hope of
+water. I must now bear in for the centre to get it. Passed through a very
+thick, nasty mulga scrub for five miles, and camped again without water
+under some low stony hills. I feel the effects of my accident very much.
+
+Monday, 14th May, Stony Hills, Mulga Scrub. Feel very stiff and ill.
+Started at daylight, and passed through three belts of thick mulga scrub,
+between which there were low stony hills. At three miles passed a small
+gum creek, emptying itself into the scrub. At seventeen miles passed
+another, doing the same; at twenty miles another, and at twenty-four
+miles a third, under the hills north-west of Central Mount Stuart. This
+has a very remarkable hill at the north-west, in the shape of a large
+bottle with a long neck. We have had the greatest difficulty in getting
+all our horses to the water; three of them are very bad; two have been
+down a dozen times during the journey to-day. On approaching the range,
+we passed through some large patches of kangaroo grass, growing very
+thickly, and reaching to my shoulder when in the saddle.
+
+Tuesday, 15th May, Centre. The horses look very bad to-day; I shall
+therefore give them three or four days' rest. It is very vexing, but it
+cannot be helped. The water here will last about ten days. I shall cause
+another search for more to be made; I myself am too unwell to assist.
+Yesterday I rode in the greatest pain from the effects of my fall, and it
+was with great difficulty that I was able to sit in the saddle until we
+reached here. Scurvy also has taken a very serious hold of me; my hands
+are a complete mass of sores that will not heal, but, when I remain for
+two or three days in some place where I can get them well washed, they
+are much better; if not, they are worse than ever, and I am rendered
+nearly helpless. My mouth and gums are now so bad that I am obliged to
+eat flour and water boiled. The pains in my limbs and muscles are almost
+insufferable. Kekwick is also suffering from bad hands, but, as yet, has
+no other symptoms. I really hope and trust that it will not be the cause
+of my having to turn back. I suffered dreadfully during the past night.
+This afternoon the wind has changed to the west--the first time since
+March; a few clouds are coming up in that direction.
+
+Wednesday, 16th May, Centre. I despatched Kekwick at daybreak in search
+of permanent water, with orders to devote the whole of two days to that
+purpose. I must now do everything that is in my power to break this
+barrier that prevents me from getting to the north. If I could only get
+one hundred and twenty miles from this, I think there would be a chance
+of reaching the coast. I wish the horses could endure the want of water a
+day or two longer, but I fear they cannot; this last journey has tried
+them to their utmost. Two of them look very wretched to-day, and will
+with difficulty get over it; one I scarcely think will do so. I should
+not have been afraid to have risked two more days with five of them. If
+they had been all like these five, I should have tried to the north-west
+a degree and back again without water. I have been suffering dreadfully
+during the past three weeks from pains in the muscles, caused by the
+scurvy, but the last two nights they have been most excruciating. Violent
+pains darted at intervals through my whole body. My powers of endurance
+were so severely tested, that, last night, I almost wished that death
+would come and relieve me from my fearful torture. I am so very weak that
+I must with patience abide my time, and trust in the Almighty. This
+morning I feel a little easier; the medicines I brought with me are all
+bad, and have no effect. The wind still from the north-west, with a few
+light clouds. Towards sundown the wind has changed to the south-west;
+heavy clouds coming from the north-west.
+
+Thursday, 17th May, Centre. Wind from the south; the heavy clouds
+continued until sunrise, and then cleared off. I fully expected some
+rain, but was disappointed. I have again had another dreadful night of
+suffering; I had, however, about two hours' sleep, which, as it was the
+only sleep I have had for the last three nights, was a great boon. This
+morning I observe that the muscles of my limbs are changing from
+yellow-green to black; my mouth is getting worse, and it is with
+difficulty that I can swallow anything. I am determined not to give in; I
+shall move about as long as I am able. I only wish the horses had been
+all right, and then I should not have stayed here so long. Kekwick
+returned at 3 o'clock, and reported having found water in the Hanson,
+about fifteen miles from Central Mount Stuart, but only a small supply.
+Beyond that the creek divides into two, one running north and the other
+east, but he could see no more water further down. He also saw two
+natives, armed with long spears, about three hundred yards off; they did
+not observe him, and he thought it most prudent not to show himself, but
+to remain behind a thick bush until they were gone. In this instance I
+regret his caution, for I am anxious to see or hear what is the
+appearance of the Central natives. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from
+north-west.
+
+Friday, 18th May, Centre. I have again had a very bad night, and feel
+unable to move to-day. Wind the same.
+
+Saturday, 19th May, Centre. I had a few hours' sleep last night, which
+has been of great benefit to me. I shall attempt to move down to the
+water in the Hanson. Arrived there about 1.30 completely done up from the
+motion of the horse. The water is a few inches below the surface in the
+sand. East side of Mount Stuart bearing 250 degrees, about ten miles
+distant. I do not think the water is permanent.
+
+Sunday, 20th May, The Hanson. Another dreadful night for me. Wind and
+clouds still coming from the north-west, but no rain.
+
+Monday, 21st May, The Hanson. Unable to move; very ill indeed. When shall
+I get relief from this dreadful state?
+
+Tuesday, 22nd May, The Hanson. I got a little sleep last night, and feel
+a great deal easier this morning, and shall try my horse back again. I
+shall now steer north-east to a range of hills that I saw from the top of
+Central Mount Stuart, and hope from these to obtain an entrance to the
+north-west or north-east. I also hope to cut the creek that carries off
+the surplus water from all the creeks which I have passed since March. It
+must go somewhere, for it is difficult to believe that those numerous
+bodies of water can be consumed by evaporation. Started on a bearing of
+48 degrees, crossed the Hanson, running a little on our right; at six
+miles crossed it again, running more to the north for two miles further.
+We crossed four more of its courses, all running in the same direction.
+The most easterly one is spread over a large salt-creek valley, and forms
+a lagoon at the foot of some sand ridges, the highest of which is ten
+miles and a half from our last camp. On the east side of it there is a
+large lagoon, five miles long by one mile and a half broad, in which
+water has lately been, but it is now dry. We then proceeded through a
+little scrub, with splendid grass, and at twelve miles cut a small gum
+creek, coming from the range. We saw a number of birds about, and there
+were tracks of natives, quite fresh, in the creek. Sent Kekwick down it
+to see if there were water, while I went up and examined it. This is the
+large gum plain that we met with the day we made the Centre; it is
+completely covered with grass. Kekwick ran the creek out. At about two
+miles he observed a little water in the creek, where the natives had been
+digging. He also came upon two of them, and two little children. They did
+not observe him until he was within fifty yards, when they stood for a
+few minutes paralysed with astonishment; then, snatching up the children,
+ran off as quickly as their legs could carry them. They did not utter a
+sound, although he called to them. He remarked that they had no hair on
+their heads, or it was as short as if it had been burned off close. I
+wish I had seen them; I should have overtaken them and seen if it were a
+fact that the hair was burnt. It is reported in Adelaide that there are
+natives in the interior without hair on their bodies. At fourteen miles
+we again struck the creek, and found plenty of water in it. It winds all
+over the plain in every direction. Camped for the night very much done
+up. I could hardly sit in my saddle for this short distance. Wind
+north-west.
+
+Wednesday, 23rd May, Gum Creek, East Range, the Stirling. The wind has
+changed again to the south-east. I have named this creek the Stirling,
+after the Honourable Edward Stirling, M.L.C. Followed it into the range
+on the same course towards a bluff, where I think I shall find an easy
+crossing. At one mile from the camp the hills commenced on the south-east
+side of the creek, but on the north-west side they commenced three miles
+further back. There was abundance of water in the creek for thirteen
+miles; at ten miles there was another large branch with water coming from
+the south-east. At fourteen miles ascended the bluff and obtained the
+following bearings: South side of the creek, to a high part of the range
+about two miles off (which I have named Mount Gwynne, after his Honour,
+Justice Gwynne), 186 degrees. North side of the creek, to another hill
+about two miles and a half off (which I have named Mount Mann, in memory
+of the late Commissioner of Insolvency), 249 degrees. Central Mount
+Stuart bears 131 degrees to the highest point. At the north-west
+termination of the next range, to which I shall now go, there are two
+very large hills, the north one, which is the highest, I have named Mount
+Strzelecki, after Count Strzelecki, bearing 358 degrees. I have named the
+high peak on the same range Mount Morphett, after the Honourable John
+Morphett, M.L.C. The view from this bluff is extensive, except to the
+west-north-west, which is hidden by this range just alluded to, which I
+have named Forster Range, after the Honourable Anthony Forster, M.L.C.
+From the south-west it has the appearance of a long continuous range,
+but, on entering it, it is much broken into irregular and rugged hills:
+on this side, the north-east, it consists of table-hills, with a number
+of rugged isolated ones on the north side. To the north-west there is
+another scrubby and gum-tree plain; to the north-north-west are some
+isolated low ranges; to the north are grassy plains and low ranges; to
+the east are several spurs from this range, which is composed of a very
+hard dark-red stone, mixed with small round quartz and ironstone, and in
+some places a hard flinty quartz. The range and hills are covered with
+spinifex, but the valleys are beautifully grassed. We descended, and at
+four miles struck a creek coming from the range, and running between two
+low ranges towards the north-east. At seven miles changed my course to
+north-east to camp in the creek, and endeavour to get water for the
+horses before encountering the scrubby plains to-morrow morning. At five
+miles came upon a low range, but no creek; it must have gone further to
+the eastward. It being now quite dark, we camped under the ranges. Since
+I changed my course I have come through a patch of mulga and other scrubs
+with plenty of grass, but no watercourses. Wind south-east; heavy clouds
+from the north-west; lightning in the south and west.
+
+Thursday, 24th May, Range of Low Hills. This morning I feel very ill from
+climbing the bluff yesterday; I had no sleep during the night, the pains
+being so very violent. About 9 o'clock we had a heavy shower of rain, and
+a little more during the night. Very late before the horses were found,
+and the atmosphere very thick, with the prospect of rain for the rest of
+the day. This and my being so ill have decided me to remain here until
+to-morrow, there being sufficient rain water for the horses. A few more
+light showers during the afternoon and evening. Wind still the same;
+heavy clouds from the north-west.
+
+Friday, 25th May, Range of Low Hills. I feel better this morning. The
+clouds have all gone during the night, and it is now quite clear. Started
+for Mount Strzelecki, passing through some very thick mulga scrub, with a
+few gum-trees and plenty of grass. At twenty-one miles came upon a small
+gum creek, where we gave the horses water, filled our own canteens, and
+proceeded to the foot of the mount and camped. At a mile from its base
+the spinifex begins again. Wind south-east. Very cold.
+
+Saturday, 26th May, Mount Strzelecki. Ascended the mount, and built a
+cone of stones. To the east are hills connected with this range, which I
+have named Crawford Range, after ---- Crawford, Esquire, of Adelaide. To
+the east-north-east is a large wooded undulating plain, with another
+range in the extreme distance. To the north-east the distant range
+continues with the same plain between. At a bearing of 55 degrees is a
+large lagoon, in which there appears to be a little water. To the
+north-north-east the plain appears to be rather more scrubby, and with a
+few sand hills. To the north the point of the distant range is lost sight
+of by some high scrubby land. To the west there are a few low hills, from
+fifteen to twenty-five miles distant. This range is composed of a hard
+flinty quartz, partly of a blue colour, with a little ironstone. We can
+find no permanent water in this range, but, from the two or three native
+tracks, quite fresh, which we have passed, I think there must be some
+about. Descended, and proceeded round the range to the lagoon, the range
+being too rough to cross. There is not enough water to be a drink for the
+horses. Camped. Very heavy clouds from the north-west. The mount is about
+four miles distant. At sundown there was a beautiful rain for an hour. It
+is very strange, the clouds come from the north-west, and the wind from
+the south-east. The rain seems to be coming against the wind.
+
+Sunday, 27th May, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. We had a few
+heavy showers during the night, but it seems as if the rain would now
+clear off. I hope not, for there is only about two inches of water in the
+lagoon. I am again suffering much pain from the exertion it cost me to
+climb Mount Strzelecki, and from assisting in building the cone of
+stones; but if I did not put my hands to almost everything that is
+required, I should never get on. My party is too small. It is killing
+work.
+
+Monday, 28th May, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. We could not get
+a start till 9.15, the horses having strayed to a distant bank for
+shelter from the wind, which was piercingly cold. I had, in the first
+instance, to go three miles north-north-west, in order to clear the low
+stony range that runs on to the east side of the lagoon. I then changed
+to 22 degrees to the far-distant range. For the first three miles our
+course was through a very thick mulga scrub, with plenty of grass, and
+occasionally a little spinifex; it then changed to a slightly undulating
+country of a reddish soil, with gum and cork-trees, and numerous low
+sandy plains, much resembling the gum and spinifex plains to the west,
+where I was twice beaten back. It certainly is a desert country. Camped
+without water on a little patch of grass. Distance to-day, twenty-eight
+miles. Wind south-east. Very cold all day.
+
+Tuesday, 29th May, Scrub, Spinifex and Gum-Trees. Started at 8 on the
+same course for the range, which is still distant, through the same
+description of country. At seven miles we came upon a plain of long
+grass, which seems to have been flooded. It is about two miles broad.
+Between this and the first hill of the range we passed four more of the
+same description. Distance to the first hill, fourteen miles. In another
+mile we struck a small creek; searched for water, but could find none,
+although birds were numerous; thence through another mulga scrub, and
+after crossing a number of rough stony hills, we arrived at the top of
+the range, which I have named Davenport Range, after the Honourable
+Samuel Davenport, M.L.C. It is composed of hard red sandstone, with
+courses of quartz. I find this is not the range for which I am bound.
+Although this one is high, the other is still higher, and, I should
+think, is still forty or fifty miles distant. The day is thick, and I
+cannot see distinctly. Between these ranges is a large plain, more open
+than those we have come over. To the north the range appears to
+terminate; to the west of north, in the far distance, just visible, are
+two high hills, the northernmost of which is conical. To the east and
+south-east is the plain and range; to the west, continuation of the same
+plain that we have come over in the last two days' journey. Although we
+had some heavy showers at the lagoon, we have not passed a single
+water-course, except the one we crossed a few miles before we made this
+range, nor did we see a drop of surface water: it seems to be all
+absorbed the moment that it falls. Descended the north-north-east side of
+the range, and at a mile and a half found some rain water in a creek,
+coming from the range. Camped. Wind south-east. Distance, twenty miles.
+
+Wednesday, 30th May, The Davenport Range. I find this water will not last
+more than three days. I have determined to remain here to-day, and have
+sent Kekwick in search of more water. As I am now a little better, I must
+get my plan brought up. It has got in arrear, in consequence of my hands
+being so bad with the scurvy. My limbs are much easier, yet the riding is
+still very painful; my mouth also is much better, so that I am led to
+hope that the disease will soon leave me. Native tracks about here, and
+when I was on the top of the range I saw smoke in the scrub a few miles
+to the north-west. Sundown: I am quite surprised that Kekwick has not
+returned, as my instructions to him were not to go above five or six
+miles, and then to return whether he found water or not. I am very much
+afraid that something has happened to him.
+
+Thursday, 31st May, The Davenport Range. Kekwick has not returned. I
+begin to feel very uneasy about him. I must be off and follow up his
+tracks. Sent Ben for the horses. He was a long time in finding them, as
+is generally the case when one wants a thing in a hurry. 9.30: Kekwick
+has arrived before the horses; he overshot his mark last night, and got
+beyond the camp. I am very glad he is all safe. He informs me that he
+came upon plenty of water a few miles from here, which compensates for
+the anxiety he caused me during the night. His reason for not returning
+as I had directed was that he crossed a gum creek which had so promising
+an appearance, that he was induced to follow it to the plains, where he
+found an abundance of water. While he was riding he was taken very ill,
+and was unable to come on for some time, which made it so late that he
+could not see to reach the camp. He is unable to proceed to-day, which is
+vexing, for I wish to get on as quickly as possible.
+
+Friday, 1st June, The Davenport Range. The horses having strayed, we did
+not get a start till late. Our course was 22 degrees, and at two miles we
+struck a small gum creek coming from the range and running
+west-north-west. At three miles and a half we crossed a larger one coming
+from, and running in, the same direction. Then commenced again the same
+sort of country that we passed through the other day. At eight miles
+struck a splendid large gum creek or river, having long and deep reaches
+of water with fish four or five inches in length; it is running through
+the plain as far as I can see, which is only a short distance, the ground
+being low and level. Its course at this place is to the west-north-west;
+it is very broad, and in some places the banks are perpendicular, and are
+well grassed and covered with fine gum-trees, mulga and other bushes.
+From bank to bank its width is about ten chains. This is the finest creek
+for water that we have passed since leaving Chambers Creek. The day being
+far advanced, I shall camp here, and get to the range to-morrow. I am
+very much inclined to follow this creek and see where it empties itself;
+but I expect to find a large one close to the range, or on the other
+side. I wish also to get on the top to see what the country on ahead is
+like. The fact of fish being in this creek leads me to think that it does
+not empty itself into the gum plains, like others lately passed, but that
+it must flow either into the sea on the north-west coast, or into a lake.
+I have named it the Bonney Creek, after Charles Bonney, Esquire, late
+Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia.
+
+Saturday, 2nd June, The Bonney Creek. Started at 8.20 on the same course,
+22 degrees, for the range, through a country of alternate spinifex and
+grass with a little mulga scrub. At seven miles we struck another large
+gum creek with every appearance of water, but I had no time to look for
+it, being anxious to make the range to-night, and endeavour to find water
+either on this side or on the other. The creek is large, and resembles
+the last. I have named it the McLaren, after John McLaren, Esquire, late
+Deputy Surveyor-General of South Australia. At seventeen miles, after
+passing through a well-grassed country with a little scrub, we reached
+the top of the first range, which is composed of a hard white
+granite-looking rock, with courses of quartz running through it. I have
+three or four spurs to cross yet before I make the main range. So far as
+I can see, McLaren Creek is running much in the same direction as the
+Bonney. Started from the top of the range and had a very difficult job in
+crossing the spurs. About sundown arrived all safe on a gum flat, between
+the ranges, and attempted to get upon what appears to be the highest
+range, but getting up the horses deterred us. We then sought for water
+among the numerous gum creeks which cover the plain, and at dark found
+some, and camped. There is a good supply of water, but I do not think it
+is permanent; it will last, however, for a month or six weeks. I have
+named these ranges the Murchison, after Sir Roderick Murchison, President
+of the Royal Geographical Society, London. Wind varying.
+
+Sunday, 3rd June, Murchison Ranges. I feel very unwell this morning, from
+the rough ride yesterday. It was my intention to have walked to the top
+of the range to-day, but I am not able to do so. The small plain between
+the ranges is a bed of soft white sandstone, through which the different
+creeks have cut deep courses; the stones on the surface (igneous
+principally), are composed of iron, quartz, dark black and blue stone,
+also a bright red one, all run together and twisted into every sort of
+nick, as also with the limestone, and many other sorts which I do not
+know. This plain is covered with a most hard spinifex, very difficult to
+get the horses to face. In another creek, about one mile south-west from
+the camp, is a large water hole which will last six months; it is ten
+yards long by twenty yards wide.
+
+Monday, 4th June, Murchison Ranges. Started on a course of 330 degrees to
+round this spur of the ranges, and at four miles and a half changed to 15
+degrees to the high point of the range, and at three miles arrived on the
+top. I have named it Mount Figg. The view from this is extensive. The
+course of this range from the south to this point is 25 degrees; it then
+makes a turn to the north-north-west, in which direction the country
+appears more open, with some patches of thick scrub, and high ranges in
+the distance. From north-west to west it appears to be gum plain, with
+open patches of grass, and a number of creeks running into it from the
+range. I shall change my course to a high peak on the north-west point of
+the range, which bears from this 340 degrees 30 minutes. This range is
+volcanic here, and is of the same formation as I have already given.
+Started from the top of the mount at 12 o'clock. Went for eight miles
+along the side of the range, and met with a small gum creek running on
+our course; followed it up for three miles without finding water; it then
+took a more westerly course, so I left it to pursue my route. After
+leaving the mount, the range is composed of red sandstone with a little
+quartz. We have occasionally met with a little limestone gravel. Camped
+at 6 o'clock, without water.
+
+Tuesday, 5th June, Gum-Tree Plain. Started on the same course at 7
+o'clock for the high peak, through the same sort of country as yesterday.
+No watercourse. At fifteen miles ascended the peak, which I have named
+Mount Samuel, after my brother. The top is a mass of nearly pure
+ironstone. It attracted the compass 160 degrees. From north to west are
+broken ranges and isolated hills of a volcanic character, in all sorts of
+shapes. The isolated hills seem to be the termination of these ranges,
+which run nearly north and south. I have named them the McDouall Ranges,
+after Colonel McDouall, of the 2nd Life Guards, Logan, Wigtownshire. I
+then changed my course to the north-north-east in search of water, there
+being no appearance of any to the north-north-west. After travelling five
+miles over small grassy, scrubby plains, between isolated hills and
+gum-trees, I could not find a water-course, so I changed to the east, to
+try if I could see anything from a high hill, which I ascended, and
+discovered a gum creek coming from the range on the east side. Followed
+it down, and, one mile and a half from the top, found a splendid hole of
+water in the rock, very deep, and permanent. The creek is very rocky, and
+its course here is north-east into the plain. Wind south-east. Clouds
+from the north-west.
+
+Wednesday, 6th June, Gum Creek, North-east Side of the McDouall Ranges.
+There being nothing but spinifex on the ranges and creeks, the horses had
+been travelling nearly all night in search of food, and had gone a long
+way before they were overtaken. This morning saddled and got a start by
+11 o'clock on a course of 340 degrees, crossing numerous creeks and stout
+spinifex, through which we had great difficulty in driving the horses. At
+five miles struck a gum creek in which we found water. The banks have
+excellent feed upon them, and in abundance, so, for the sake of the
+horses, I have determined to remain here to-day. This creek, which I have
+named Tennant Creek, after John Tennant, Esquire, of Port Lincoln, runs
+east. In searching for the horses this morning Ben found three or four
+more large water holes in the adjoining creek, a little south-east from
+this. Before we reached this, we crossed some marks very much resembling
+old horse-tracks.
+
+Thursday, 7th June, Tennant Creek, McDouall Ranges. Started at 7.20.
+Course, 340 degrees. At three miles passed through an immense number of
+huge granite rocks piled together and scattered about in every direction,
+with a few small water-courses running amongst them to the eastward. We
+then encountered a rather thick scrub, and occasionally crossed a few low
+quartz rises coming from the McDouall ranges. At fourteen miles ascended
+the highest of them, which I have named Mount Woodcock, after the
+Venerable the Archdeacon of Adelaide. To the north-west and north is
+another range, about ten miles distant, which seems to continue a long
+way. I will change my course to 315 degrees, which will take me to the
+highest point. At two miles on this course came upon a gum creek running
+to the north-east, which I named Bishop Creek; followed it for one mile
+and a half, and found water, which will last a month or six weeks, and an
+immense number of birds. This is a camping-place of the natives, who seem
+to have been here very lately. We watered the horses and proceeded
+towards the range. At about two miles passed a low rugged ironstone
+range, peculiar in having a large square mass of ironstone standing by
+itself about the centre. I have named it Mount Sinclair, after James
+Sinclair, of Port Lincoln. Passed through a thick scrub, among which we
+saw a very handsome bush that was new to us, having a blue-green leaf ten
+inches long by six inches broad. We looked for some seed, but could not
+find any. At five miles crossed a grassy gum plain, where a creek empties
+itself. The same scrub continues to the range, which we reached at twelve
+miles from the water. It is not very high, but rough and steep, and we
+had great difficulty in getting to the top, but after many twistings and
+turnings and scramblings, we arrived there all right, and found it to be
+table land. At fourteen miles camped without water. The range is composed
+of ironstone, granite, quartz and red sandstone, running north of west
+and south of east. I have named it Short Range, after the Right Reverend
+the Lord Bishop of Adelaide.
+
+Friday, 8th June, Short Range. Started at 8 o'clock on the same course,
+315 degrees, to some very distant rising grounds. Short range seems to
+run nearly parallel to our course, as also does another distant range to
+the north, which I have named Sturt Range, after Captain Sturt. The table
+land continued about two miles, and then there was a gradual descent to
+the plains, and we entered a thick scrub with spinifex and gums. At
+eighteen miles came upon a beautiful plain of grass, having large
+gum-trees, and a new description of tree, the foliage of which is a
+dark-green and rather round, and the bark rough and of a dark colour.
+Here also was the cork-tree, and numerous other shrubs. This grassy plain
+continued for thirty-one miles, until we camped, but the last part is not
+so good. When I struck this plain, I was in great hopes of finding a
+large creek of water, but have been disappointed; we have not crossed a
+single water-course in thirty-one miles. Camped at sundown. No water.
+Wind south-east.
+
+Saturday, 9th June, Grassy Plain. There is some rising ground a few miles
+further on, to which I shall go in search of a creek; I might be able to
+see something from it. If I do not find water I shall have to retreat to
+Bishop Creek, as the horses have now been two nights without water.
+Started at 7 o'clock, same course, 315 degrees, through scrub and a light
+sandy soil. At four miles got to the rise, which is a scrubby sand-hill.
+From this I can see nothing, the scrub being so thick; it is of a nasty,
+tough, wiry description, and has torn our hands and saddle-bags to
+pieces. I got up a tree to look over the top of this scrub, which is
+about twelve feet high, and I could see our course for a long distance;
+it appears to be the same terrible scrub, with no sign of any creeks. It
+is very vexing to get thus far, and have to turn back, when perhaps
+another day's journey would bring me to a better country. I shall now try
+a south course, and cut the grassy plains to the westward, in the hope of
+finding water; if so, I shall be able to make two days' journey to the
+north-west. Started on a south course for fourteen miles, through scrub
+and small grassy plains alternately, but we could find neither creek nor
+water. I now regret that I attempted the south course, which makes the
+distance from the water so much greater. Wind still south-east; heavy
+clouds coming from the north-west, I trust it will rain before morning.
+
+Sunday, 10th June, Grassy Plains. Started at sunrise, and at two miles
+again got into the scrub. Three of the horses we can scarcely get along;
+they are very much done up. At 11 o'clock, one horse gave in altogether.
+We cannot get him up; we have tried everything in our power to do
+something for him. The other horses have been carrying his load, and he
+has had nothing to carry for this last hour and a half; all our efforts
+are in vain, and I am obliged, although with great reluctance, to leave
+him to his fate. Had this occurred nearer the water, I should have put an
+end to his existence and taken part of him to eat, for we are now very
+short of provisions, and the other horses have quite enough to carry
+without sharing his load; I wish I had left him sooner. At 12 o'clock, I
+find I shall lose some more of them, if they do not get water to-night,
+and it will be to-morrow before I can reach Bishop Creek. I shall now go
+to Short range and try to find some. The little bay mare Polly has become
+nearly mad, running about among the other horses, and kicking them as she
+passes; even the men do not escape from her heels. At five miles made the
+range. There are no large creeks coming from this side--nothing but small
+ones which empty themselves into the plain; sand up to the foot of the
+hills. Before we reach the range another of the horses is done up; he has
+only been carrying about 30 pounds in consequence of his back having been
+bad for the last three weeks. We lightened all the weak horses two days
+since. We shall now try if he will go without anything on his back. We
+are now amongst the granite ridges, and hope we shall find water on this
+side. The horse has given in before we can get to the other side. We must
+leave him for the sake of the others. Too much time has already been lost
+in endeavouring to get them on. Reached the other side and searched the
+different creeks, but cannot find any water. Crossed a spur of the range
+running south, and can see a nice-looking creek with gum-trees. Our hopes
+and spirits are again revived; the sight of it has even invigorated the
+horses, and they are hurrying on towards it. Traversed it down, but, to
+our great disappointment, find that it loses itself in a grassy plain. It
+is now dark, so I must remain here for the night. The sky is quite
+overcast, and I trust that Providence will send us rain before morning.
+An accident has happened to the water we were carrying; it was all lost
+yesterday. If it clears during the night, so that I can see the stars to
+guide me, I shall move on.
+
+Monday, 11th June, Short Range. During the night there were a few drops
+of rain, which again raised our hopes, and about 4 o'clock it looked as
+if we were to have a deluge, but, alas! it only rained for about two
+minutes, and as much fell as would wet a pocket-handkerchief. Saddled and
+started through the range, my poor little mare looking very bad this
+morning; I have taken everything off her, so that she may hold out until
+we get to water, and I have been obliged to leave as many things at this
+camp as I could possibly do without. The mare lies down every few yards,
+I am therefore compelled to leave her for the sake of the others. From
+the number of birds about here, I think there must be water near; I hope
+she may find it, although I am afraid she is too far gone even to try it.
+At 1 o'clock, at the foot of Mount Woodcock, the horses' spirits revived
+at sight of their old track. I shall now be able to get all the rest of
+them safe to water, although there is one still doubtful. My own black
+mare shows a few symptoms of madness, but still keeps on, and does her
+work well. About an hour before sundown arrived at the water without any
+more losses, for which I sincerely thank the Almighty. We have had a
+terrible job to keep the horses from drinking too much water, but, as
+they have now eaten a few mouthfuls of grass, I have allowed them to
+drink as much as they thought proper. The natives have been here since we
+left.
+
+Tuesday, 12th June, Bishop Creek. Resting: the horses look very bad; they
+remained by the water all night.
+
+Wednesday, 13th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still look very bad this
+morning; they have again stayed by the water nearly all night; they had
+been one hundred and one hours without a drop, and have accomplished a
+journey of one hundred and twelve miles; they will require a week to
+recover; one of them is very lame from a kick the little mare gave him in
+her madness. Thus ends my last attempt, at present, to make the Victoria
+River; three times have I tried it, and have been forced to retreat.
+About 11 o'clock I heard the voice of a native; looked round and could
+see two in the scrub, about a quarter of a mile distant. I beckoned to
+them to approach, but they kept making signs which I could not
+understand. I then moved towards them, but the moment they saw me move,
+they ran off immediately. About a quarter of an hour afterwards they
+again made their appearance on the top of the quartz reef, opposite our
+camp, and two others showed themselves in about the same place as the two
+first did. Thinking this was the only water, I made signs to the two on
+the reef to go to the water; but they still continued talking and making
+signs which I could not understand; it seemed as if they wished us to go
+away, which I was determined not to do. They then made a number of
+furious frantic gestures, shaking their spears, and twirling them round
+their heads, etc. etc., I suppose bidding us defiance. I should think the
+youngest was about twenty-five years of age. He placed a very long spear
+into the instrument they throw them with, and, after a few more gestures,
+descended from the reef, and gradually came a little nearer. I made signs
+of encouragement for him to come on, at the same time moving towards him.
+At last we arrived on the banks of the creek, he on one side, and I on
+the other. He had a long spear, a womera, and two instruments like the
+boomerang, but more the shape of a scimitar, with a very sharp edge,
+having a thick place at the end, roughly carved, for the hand. The
+gestures he was making were now signs of hostility, and he came fully
+prepared for war. I then broke a branch of green leaves from a bush, and
+held it up towards him, inviting him to come across to me. As he did not
+seem to fancy that, I crossed to where he was, and got within two yards
+of him. He thought I was quite near enough, and would not have me any
+nearer, for he kept moving back as I approached. I wished to get close up
+to him, but he would not have it; we then stood still, and I tried to
+make him understand, by signs, that all we wanted was water for two or
+three days. At last he seemed to understand, nodded his head, pointed to
+the water, then to our camp, and held up his five fingers. I then
+endeavoured to learn from him if there was water to the north or
+north-east, but I could make nothing of him. He viewed me very steadily
+for a long time, began talking, and seeing that I did not understand him,
+he made the sign that natives generally do of wanting something to eat,
+and pointed towards me. Whether he meant to ask if I was hungry, or to
+suggest that I should make a very good supper for him, I do not know, but
+I bowed my head as if I understood him perfectly. We then separated, I
+keeping a careful watch upon him all the time I was crossing the creek.
+Before I left him the other one joined. The first was a tall, powerful,
+well-made fellow, upwards of six feet; his hair was very long, and he had
+a red-coloured net tied round his head, with the ends of his hair lying
+on his shoulders. I observed nothing else that was peculiar about them.
+They had neither skins nor anything round their bodies, but were quite
+naked. They then took their departure. A short time afterwards I saw them
+joined by five others. We have seen nothing more of them to-day, and I
+hope they will not trouble us any more, but let me get my horses rested
+in peace. Wind south, all the clouds gone; nights and mornings very cold.
+Occupied during the day in shoeing horses, and repairing and making
+saddle-bags.
+
+Thursday, 14th June, Bishop Creek. On examining the water holes, I find
+there are small crab fish in them, which leads me to think this water is
+permanent. This morning we again hear the voices of the natives up the
+creek to the west. There must be plenty more water up there, as most of
+the birds go in that direction to drink, passing by this water. The
+natives have not come near us to-day, but we have seen the smoke of their
+fires. Shoeing horses, repairing and making saddle-bags, which were torn
+all to pieces by the scrub.
+
+Friday, 15th June, Bishop Creek. Resting horses, and getting our
+equipment in order for another trial, as I think the horses will be ready
+to start on Monday morning. No more of the natives but their smoke is
+still visible. Wind south; day hot, night cool.
+
+Saturday, 16th June, Bishop Creek. The horses are still drinking an
+immense quantity of water; they are at it five and six times a day; they
+must have suffered dreadfully. The grass here is as dry as if it were the
+middle of summer, instead of winter. I hope we may soon have rain, which
+would be a great blessing to me.
+
+Sunday, 17th June, Bishop Creek. The horses still pay frequent visits to
+the water. We have found more about a mile up the creek, and there seems
+to be plenty further up in the hills; I cannot examine it just now, in
+consequence of the natives being about. It would not do for me to leave,
+as the party is so small, nor do I like sending one of them, for he might
+be taken by surprise and cut off, which would ruin me altogether, being
+able to do scarcely anything myself. Although I am much better, I am
+still very weak; the pains in my limbs are not so constant. I attribute
+the relief to eating a number of native cucumbers which are in quantities
+on this creek. The horse that was kicked by the mare is still very lame.
+Wind south-east.
+
+Monday, 18th June, Bishop Creek. Started at 9.30 on a bearing of 18
+degrees, through a plain of alternate grass, scrub, and spinifex, and at
+five miles passed a number of isolated hills close together, composed of
+large masses of ironstone, quartz, and a hard brown rock, very irregular,
+and all sorts of shapes; the stones seem as if they had undergone the
+action of fire. We then proceeded through some very bad spinifex,
+dark-coloured, long, hard and dry; we could scarcely get the horses to
+face it. We then came upon a grassy plain, and at ten miles struck a gum
+creek coming from the west of north-west, and running (at this place)
+east-north-east; followed it and found an abundance of water in long deep
+holes, with shells of the crab fish lying on the banks. The water is
+upwards of a mile in length; the creek then spreads out over a grassy
+plain with scrub and gum-trees, and is joined by the other creeks coming
+from the McDouall range. I thought it advisable to camp here for the rest
+of the day, as a further journey would be a risk for the horse that is
+lame, and I do not wish to lose any more; as it is, I am afraid he will
+not be able to cross Short range, which I hope to do in a few hours.
+Natives about. Splendid grass on this plain, and on the banks of the
+creek, which I have named Phillips Creek, after John Phillips, Esquire,
+J.P., of Kanyaka. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 19th June, Phillips Creek. Started at 8 o'clock on the same
+bearing, 18 degrees. We first passed through a well-grassed plain with a
+little scrub, then again through hard spinifex to the range. At one mile
+crossed another gum creek with water in it, coming from Short range. At
+four miles reached the top of the spur of the range; and at seven miles,
+the top of the range. About two miles to the east, the range seems to
+terminate in a gum plain, a spur from the McDouall range running on the
+other side of the plain, and crossing our line a few miles further on.
+Short range here is composed of quartz, ironstone, and red granite, with
+a little limestone. Descended into the plain, and at ten miles came upon
+another gum creek, spreading over a grassy plain, but could find no
+water. At thirteen miles came upon some dry swamps with a number of birds
+about them. At fourteen miles reached the top of the next range. From
+this the appearance of the country, on this course, is evidently very
+scrubby. On a bearing of 55 degrees, in the far distance, is the
+termination of another range. I do not like facing the scrub again so
+soon after my late loss, and with my horses not yet recovered. I shall
+return to the swamps and look for water. If I find any, I shall start in
+the morning for the end of the distant range. My lame horse is unable to
+do more to-day; crossing the range has been very hard upon him. Returned
+to the swamps and found a fine pond of water. Camped. The water is
+derived from the creek that we passed in the middle of the day. I have
+named these ponds after Kekwick, in token of the zeal and activity he has
+displayed during the expedition.
+
+Wednesday, 20th June, Kekwick Ponds. Saddled at sunrise, and proceeded to
+the top of the low range, from which I turned back yesterday, and changed
+my course to 56 degrees to the northernmost point of the distant hills,
+through a plain of alternate grass and spinifex. At 3 o'clock struck the
+William Creek again, with splendid grass on its banks. It ran nearly our
+course for about three miles, and then turned to the east. We then
+entered the same sort of scrub as that in which I lost my horses; this
+continued until we reached the hills, which we did in about eighteen
+miles. From this we can see a range to the south-south-east. About ten
+miles off there is a large lake, with red sand hills on the east side. I
+cannot see the extent of it, the hills that I am now on being so low;
+they are composed of granite, and run north and south. To the north and
+north-east is another lake, about the same distance, to which I shall go
+on a course of 32 degrees 30 minutes. On the north side of this one there
+are also sand hills with scrub. For two miles after leaving the hills we
+passed through a soft, sandy, scrubby country and spinifex. It then
+became harder, with grass and spinifex alternately. At four miles from
+the hills we camped without water. My horses have not recovered from
+their last trial, and seem to be very tired to-night, although to-day's
+journey was not a long one, but it has been very hot, and the scrub thick
+and difficult to get through.
+
+Thursday, 21st June, Scrub. The horses having gone back on the track, we
+did not get a start until 8.30--course, 32 degrees 30 minutes to a high
+hill on the other side of the lake, passing through a thick scrub of
+cork-tree and gums, with spinifex and grass. At seven miles came upon
+what I thought was the lake, but it turns out to be a large plain of rich
+alluvial soil covered with dry grass, which gave it the appearance of a
+lake. It was three miles across to the top of the hill; no water-course
+through, nor any water to be seen. The hills on the north side are
+composed of ironstone and granite, and, from the distance, looked very
+much like sand hills. From the top of the hill I can see the plain
+extending a little to the west of north, but I cannot see far for the
+mirage. To the north-north-east is another plain of the same description,
+but much smaller, about a mile and a half broad, and nearly circular. To
+the north-east is another very extensive one; its dimensions I cannot
+see. I seem to have got into the land of grassy plains and low stony
+hills. I wish my horses had had water last night or yesterday. They seem
+to be very much in want of it. I must devote the rest of this day to a
+search for it. I shall now direct my course for the south part of the
+plain that I have just crossed; it seems to be the lowest part, and the
+flight of the birds is directed that way. Searched all round, but can
+find no water; so I must return to Kekwick Ponds. The day is extremely
+hot, and my horses cannot stand two more nights without water. Would that
+they had more endurance! It is dreadful to have to turn back almost at
+the threshold of success. I cannot be far from the dip of the country to
+the Gulf. Returned by another course to where I camped last night, but
+still no water. I would fain try the plain to the south, but I dare not
+risk the loss of more horses. Proceeded to the low range that I crossed
+yesterday; examined round it, but cannot find any water. Camped. Two of
+the horses very much done up. I must go back through that nasty scrub
+again.
+
+Friday, 22nd June, Under the West Low Range. Started at sunrise for the
+ponds, and at 1.30 arrived; the horses being very much exhausted. I am
+glad I did not remain another night without water; three of them are
+completely done up, and it has been with difficulty that we have got them
+here. Wind south-west.
+
+Saturday, 23rd June, Kekwick Ponds. Resting horses. About 1 o'clock we
+were visited by two natives, who presented us with four opossums and a
+number of small birds and parrots. They were much frightened at first,
+but after a short time became very bold, and, coming to our camp, wanted
+to steal everything they could lay their fingers on. I caught one
+concealing the rasp that is used in shoeing the horses under the netting
+he had round his waist, and was obliged to take it from him by force. The
+canteens they seemed determined to have, and it was with difficulty we
+could get them from them. They wished to pry into everything, until I
+lost all patience and ordered them off. In about half an hour two other
+young men approached the camp. Thinking they might be in want of water,
+and afraid to come to it on account of the horses, I sent Ben with a tin
+dishful, which they drank. They were very young men, and too much
+frightened to come any nearer. About an hour before sundown, one of the
+first that had come, returned, bringing with him three others, two of
+whom were young, tall, powerful, well made, and good-looking, and as fine
+specimens of the native as I have yet seen. On their heads they had a
+neatly-fitting hat or helmet close to the brow, and rising straight up to
+a rounded peak, three or four inches above the head and gradually
+becoming narrower towards the back part. The outside was net-work; the
+inside was composed of feathers very tightly bound together with cord
+until it was as hard as a piece of wood; it may be used as a protection
+from the sun, or as armour for the battle-field. One of them had a great
+many scars upon him, and seemed to be a leading man. Only two had helmets
+on, the others had pieces of netting bound round their foreheads. One was
+an old man, and seemed to be the father of these two fine young men. He
+was very talkative, but I could make nothing of him. I have endeavoured,
+by signs, to get information from him as to where the next water is, but
+we cannot understand each other. After some time, and having conferred
+with his two sons, he turned round, and surprised me by giving me one of
+the Masonic signs. I looked at him steadily; he repeated it, and so did
+his two sons. I then returned it, which seemed to please them much, the
+old man patting me on the shoulder and stroking down my beard. They then
+took their departure, making friendly signs until they were out of sight.
+We enjoyed a good supper from the opossums, which we have not had for
+many a day. The men are complaining of weakness from the want of
+sufficient nourishment. I find the quantity of rations is not enough;
+five pounds of flour per week is too little for many weeks together. It
+may do very well for a month or so, but when it comes to the length of
+time we have been out, we all feel it very much; and the dried meat that
+I brought with me being very young, it has not half the strength in it
+that old meat has.
+
+Sunday, 24th June, Kekwick Ponds. Our black friends have not made their
+appearance to-day.
+
+Monday, 25th June, Kekwick Ponds. Started again on a bearing of 345
+degrees to some very distant hills, to see if I can get into the face of
+the country to the Gulf of Carpentaria. At two miles crossed a large gum
+creek (with long beds of concrete ironstone), which I have named Hayward
+Creek, after Frederick Hayward, Esquire. The banks are beautifully
+grassed, and extend for four miles on the north side. At fourteen miles
+struck a gum creek with large sheets of water in which were plenty of
+ducks, native companions, black shags, cranes, and other birds. Camped
+here for the remainder of the day. The course of the creek at this point
+is to the north of east, and coming from the north of west, apparently
+from the range, which is distant about ten miles. It very much resembles
+Chambers Creek. The ponds (in which we found some small fish) are about
+eighty yards broad, and about three quarters of a mile long, having large
+masses of concrete ironstone at both ends, separating the one pond from
+the other; large gum-trees being in the ponds. Wind north-west. Very hot.
+
+Tuesday, 26th June, Large Gum Creek, with Sheets of Water. I have
+resolved to follow this creek down to-day, and, if the water continues,
+to follow it out. Started on a course 77 degrees, and at six miles
+crossed the creek, which is running a little more to the north. There are
+long sheets of water all the way down to this, the banks in some places
+being steep, with the lower part formed of concrete, and the upper red
+sandy soil, which gives me a bad opinion of it for water, if the concrete
+ceases. Here we saw some blacks; they would not come near us, but walked
+off as fast as they could. From the top of the rise we saw where they
+were camped, on the banks of a large sheet of water; we passed on without
+taking any more notice of them, and at nine miles, not seeing any
+appearance of the creek, I changed my course to 25 degrees. At three
+quarters of a mile cut it again, but without water in it; it is much
+narrower and deeper, having sandy banks and bed. Changed again to 77
+degrees, the creek frequently crossing our course, and at fifteen miles
+saw there was no hope of obtaining water. The country is becoming more
+sandy, and is thickly covered with spinifex and scrub. We crossed down to
+the banks of the creek; no rising ground visible. I must keep closer to
+the hills, and, as the day has been very hot, I shall return and camp at
+nine miles from our last camp, if there is water; if not, I shall have to
+camp a short way above where we saw the natives this morning. I do not
+wish to get too near them, or to annoy them in any way. We could find no
+water below where they were camped; I therefore pushed on to get above
+them before dark. At half-past one o'clock, about three miles from the
+creek, we saw where they had been examining our tracks, and as we
+approached the creek their tracks became very numerous on ours. When we
+arrived on the top of the rise, where we had previously seen their camp
+and fires, we could now see nothing of them, neither smoke, fires, nor
+anything else: it was then nearly dark. I concluded they had left in
+consequence of having seen us pass in the morning, as natives in general
+do. I was moving on to the place where we crossed the creek in the
+morning, when suddenly from behind some scrub which we had just entered,
+up started three tall powerful fellows fully armed, having a number of
+boomerangs, waddies, and spears. Their distance from us was about two
+hundred yards. It being so nearly dark, and the scrub we were then in
+placing us at a disadvantage, I wished to pass without taking any notice
+of them, but such was not their intention, for they continued to approach
+us, calling out and making all sorts of gestures apparently of defiance.
+I then faced them, making every sign of friendship I could think of. They
+seemed to be in a great fury, moving their boomerangs above their head,
+bawling at the top of their voices, and performing some sort of a dance.
+They were now joined by more of their tribe, so that in a few minutes
+their numbers had increased to upwards of thirty; every bush seemed to
+produce a man. Putting the horses on towards the creek, and placing
+ourselves between them and the natives, I told my men to get their guns
+ready, for I could see they were determined upon mischief. They paid no
+regard to all the signs of friendship I kept constantly making, but were
+still gradually approaching nearer and nearer to us. I felt very
+unwilling to fire upon them, and still continued making signs of peace
+and friendship, but all to no purpose. Their leader, an old man, who was
+in advance, made signs with his boomerang, which we took as a signal for
+us to be off. They were, however, intended as tokens of defiance, for I
+had no sooner turned my horse's head to comply with what I thought were
+their wishes, than we received a shower of boomerangs, accompanied by a
+fearful yell; they then set fire to the grass, and commenced jumping,
+dancing, yelling, and throwing their arms into all sorts of postures,
+like so many fiends. In addition to the thirty that already confronted
+us, I could now see many others getting up from behind the bushes. Still
+I felt unwilling to fire upon them, and tried again to make them
+understand that we wished to do them no harm. Having now approached
+within about forty yards of us, they made another charge, and threw their
+boomerangs, which came whistling and whizzing past our ears, one of them
+striking my horse. I then gave orders to fire, which stayed their mad
+career for a little. Our pack-horses, which were on before us, took
+fright when they heard the firing and fearful yelling, and made off for
+the creek. Seeing some of the blacks running from bush to bush, with the
+intention of cutting us off from our horses, while those in front were
+still yelling, throwing their boomerangs, and coming nearer to us, we
+gave them another reception, and I sent Ben after the horses to drive
+them on to a more favourable place, while Kekwick and I remained to cover
+our rear. We soon got in advance of those who were endeavouring to cut us
+off, but they still kept following, though beyond the reach of our guns,
+the fearful yelling still continuing from more numerous voices, and fires
+springing up in every direction. It being now quite dark, with the
+country scrubby, and our enemies bold and daring, we could be easily
+surrounded and destroyed by such determined fellows as they have shown
+themselves to be. Seeing there is no hope with such fearful odds (ten to
+one at least) against us, and knowing all the disadvantages under which
+we labour, I very unwillingly make up my mind to push on to our last
+night's camp. We have done so, and now I have had a little time to
+consider the matter over I do not think it prudent to remain here
+to-night; I shall therefore continue on until I reach the open grassy
+plain or gum creek. They are still following us up; I only wish that I
+had four more men, for my party is so small that we can only fall back
+and act on the defensive. If I were to stand and fight them (which I wish
+I could) our horses must remain unprotected, and we, in all probability,
+should be cut off from them. Our enemies seem to be aiming at that, and
+to prevent our advance up the creek; by this time they have found out
+their mistake, as we did not go a step out of our course for them.
+Arrived at Hayward Creek at 11 o'clock at night.
+
+Wednesday, 27th June, Hayward Creek. This morning we see signal fires all
+around us. It was my intention last night to have gone this morning to
+Kekwick Ponds to water the horses, then to give them the day to rest, and
+proceed to-morrow back again to the large creek, and go on to the distant
+hills that I was steering for on the 25th instant, but, after considering
+the matter over the whole night, I have most reluctantly come to the
+determination to abandon the attempt to make the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+Situated as I now am, it would be most imprudent. In the first place my
+party is far too small to cope with such wily, determined natives as
+those we have just encountered. If they had been Europeans they could not
+better have arranged and carried out their plan of attack. They had
+evidently observed us passing in the morning, had examined our tracks to
+see which way we had gone, and knew we could get no water down the creek,
+but must retrace our steps to obtain it above them; they therefore lay in
+wait for our return. Their charge was in double column, open order, and
+we had to take steady aim, to make an impression. With such as these for
+enemies in our rear, and, most probably, far worse in advance, it would
+be destruction to all my party for me to attempt to go on. All the
+information of the interior that I have already obtained would be lost.
+Moreover, we have only half rations for six months, four of which are
+gone, and I have been economizing as much as I possibly could in case of
+our having to be out a longer time, so that my men now complain of great
+weakness, and are unable to perform what they have to do. Again, only two
+showers of rain have fallen since March, and I am afraid of the waters
+drying up to the south, and there is no appearance of rain at present.
+The days are now become very hot again, and the feed for the horses as
+dry as if it were the middle of summer. The poor animals are very much
+reduced in condition, so much so that I am afraid of their being longer
+than one night without water. Finally, my health is so bad, that I am
+hardly able to sit in the saddle. After taking all those things into
+consideration, I think it would be madness and folly to attempt more. If
+my own life were the only sacrifice, I would willingly risk it to
+accomplish my purpose; but it seems that I am destined to be
+disappointed; man proposes, but the Almighty disposes, and his will must
+be obeyed. Seeing the signal fires around, and dreading lest our black
+friends at Kekwick Ponds might have been playing a double part with us,
+in spite of their Masonic signs, I gave them a wide berth, and steered
+for Bishop Creek. Arrived there in the afternoon, and found that the
+creek had not been visited by natives since we left. These natives do not
+deposit their dead bodies in the ground, but place them in the trees,
+and, judging from the number of these corpses which we have passed
+between this and the large creek, where they made their attack upon us,
+they must be very numerous. These natives have quite a different cast of
+features from those in the south; they have neither the broad flat nose
+and large mouth, nor the projecting eyebrows, but have more of the Malay;
+they are tall, muscular, well-made men, and I think they must have seen
+or encountered white men before.
+
+Thursday, 28th June, Bishop Creek. Camped at the rocky water hole
+north-east side of the McDouall range.
+
+Friday, 29th June, Anderson Creek. Crossed the McDouall ranges and camped
+on a gum creek on the north-east side of the Murchison ranges, which I
+have named Gilbert Creek, after Thomas Gilbert, Esquire, late Colonial
+Storekeeper.
+
+Saturday, 30th June, Gilbert Creek. Crossed the Murchison ranges, and the
+large gum creek coming from them, and running west-north-west, which I
+have named Baker Creek, after the Honourable John Baker, M.L.C. I did not
+examine it, but should think from its appearance that there is water in
+it; besides, I can distinguish the smoke of a native encampment.
+Proceeded to the creek where we camped before, but found all the water
+gone, except a little moisture in the bottom of the holes. I was rather
+surprised at this, for I thought it would have lasted three months at
+least. Went to another creek, where there was a large hole of water in
+conglomerate rock; this we found also to be very much reduced; when we
+last saw it, its depth was four feet, and now it is only eighteen inches.
+Camped.
+
+Sunday, 1st July, Murchison Ranges. My horses very tired, and three of
+them are nearly done up.
+
+Monday, 2nd July, Murchison Ranges. Proceeded to the Bonney Creek to get
+feed for the horses, there being very little besides spinifex under the
+ranges. Smoke of native encampments on and about the creek; I must be
+very careful.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd July, The Bonney Creek. We have not seen any more of the
+natives yet. I shall rest the horses to-day, there being plenty of feed,
+which they very much want. Being so very few of us, I am obliged to turn
+them out with the saddles on; so that, if we are attacked again, one can
+put the packs on, while I and the other defend him. The water in this
+hole is very much reduced, but I think it will not fail altogether, in
+consequence of the small fish being in it. From the diminution of the
+water in this creek since I left it, a month ago, I am inclined to think
+that I shall have a very hard push to get back; my horses being so weak
+from the hardships they have undergone, that they are now unable to do as
+much as they did before. I fear that I shall not get any water between
+this and Forster's range, a distance of upwards of eighty miles, so I
+shall rest them here for a week, if the natives will be quiet; if not, I
+must run the risk of losing more of them. To-day, I had made up my mind
+to follow out this creek, to see if the waters continue, and if it would
+take me to the north of the spinifex and gum-tree plain which I had to
+turn back from on my north-west course from Mount Denison, and if rain
+falls to try again for the Victoria River. I am, however, disappointed,
+for, on weighing the rations, I find I am terribly short, which I did not
+expect, and which cuts off all hope of my attaining that point. My
+troubles and vexations seem to come upon me all at once. Had I but a
+stronger party, and six months' rations, I think I should be able to
+accomplish something before my return. I have done my best, and can do no
+more. My eyesight is now so bad that I cannot depend upon my
+observations, which will be a great loss to me; and the scurvy has
+returned with greater severity. Before I start on my return, if
+everything goes right, I shall run down this creek a short distance. It
+may, at some future time, turn out to be the road to the Victoria River,
+or one of its tributaries. Wind south and south-west.
+
+Wednesday, 4th July, The Bonney Creek. The water in this hole has been
+diminishing very rapidly since we were here; it is falling at the rate of
+six inches per day, which is a poor look-out for us on our homeward
+course. I have not a day to spare now, as the weather is becoming very
+hot, and will dry it up much faster. I must push back as soon as my
+horses are rested and able to undergo the eighty miles without water. I
+must give up the examination of this creek, for every day now is of the
+utmost importance, and I must not give the horses one mile more than I
+can help. Oh! that rain would fall before I leave this. It would indeed
+be an inestimable blessing. Wind from all points. At sundown a few clouds
+have made their appearance.
+
+Thursday, 5th July, The Bonney Creek. During the night it became very
+cloudy from the west, and this morning still continues. My hopes are
+again raised. If it should rain, I shall try for the Victoria River
+again, even though I should be without rations for my return; I could
+kill one of the horses and dry his flesh, and that would take me back.
+Still very cloudy, and every sign of rain. I am making preparations for
+another trial. At sundown there are still heavy black clouds coming from
+the west, which have raised our hopes of success to the highest point,
+and I ardently trust they will be realized. No natives have come near us,
+yet they are still about.
+
+Friday, 6th July, The Bonney Creek. A sad, sad disappointment; all our
+most sanguine hopes are again gone, for, during the night, the clouds
+broke up and have all vanished; it is very vexing. I shall rest the
+horses till Monday, and then, ill and dispirited, commence my homeward
+journey. I dare not venture into a new route, for, want of water, and the
+low condition of my horses, compel me to keep my former track. Last night
+about 10 o'clock, I observed the comet for the first time, above the west
+horizon; it set at 7 o'clock 20 degrees north of west. At sundown it has
+become overcast with heavy clouds, and my hopes are again raised; I trust
+we may get it now. Midnight: still cloudy, and every appearance of rain.
+Wind changeable.
+
+Saturday, 7th July, The Bonney Creek. Alas! all the clouds are again
+gone; our hopes were only raised to be dashed down with greater
+disappointment. The wind has returned to its old quarter, south-east.
+Natives still about, but they do not come near us. I shall now prepare
+for my return on Monday morning; it is very disheartening.
+
+Sunday, 8th July, The Bonney Creek. The weather has every appearance of
+being dry for some time to come, not a cloud to be seen; the wind
+south-east, and very cold night and morning. All hope of making the coast
+is now gone. On weighing our rations to-day, I find that we are again
+short since we halted here. The man Ben has been making it a regular
+practice to steal them since he has been with me. I have caught him
+several times doing so, and all the threats and warnings of the
+consequences have had no effect upon him. They deter him for a day or
+two, and then he is as bad as ever. I have been in the habit of reducing
+our allowance to make up for the loss, which has been very hard upon
+Kekwick and myself; he has helped himself to about double his allowance
+during the journey.
+
+Monday, 9th July, The Bonney Creek. Started for the Davenport range,
+where we camped before; the water is all dried up. Ascended the range,
+and changed my bearing to Mount Morphett, 196 degrees, in the Crawford
+range, in the hope of finding water there. At four miles struck the creek
+that I have before crossed nearer to the range, found water, and camped
+to give my horses every chance. I have named this creek Barker Creek,
+after Mr. Chambers' brother-in-law. I do not think this water is
+permanent, but, from the number of birds that are passing up the creek, I
+think there must be permanent water higher up. This range seems to yield
+a deal of water on both sides. Native graves about.
+
+Tuesday, 10th July, Barker Creek. Started at 6.30 on a bearing of 196
+degrees towards Mount Strzelecki. At six miles crossed a gum creek,
+coming from the range, and running to the west, on my former track. I
+crossed it where it lost itself on the plain. The country is well
+grassed, with a little spinifex occasionally, from the range to this
+point. At twelve miles it became scrubby and sandy with a little grass,
+spinifex predominating, which continued to where we camped. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 11th July, Scrub North-north-east of Mount Strzelecki. One of
+the horses having parted from the others, and gone a long distance off in
+search of water, it was 9 o'clock before we could get a start. At seven
+miles arrived at a lagoon north-east of Mount Strzelecki. Found a little
+water and feed for the horses. Camped to give them the benefit of it.
+Wind, south-south-east. Cold.
+
+Thursday, 12th July, Lagoon North-east of Mount Strzelecki. Made an early
+start, crossing the range, on a south course. Very rough and difficult.
+Could see no water. To the south-east of Mount Morphett there is the
+appearance of a creek, and on the south-west there are also the signs of
+a watered country, which is more hilly. Proceeded on through the thick
+dead mulga scrub, to the north side of Forster range, where we camped at
+dark without water. The country passed over to-day is splendidly grassed,
+especially as we approached the range. There is also a little spinifex,
+but not much. Distance to-day, thirty-two miles.
+
+Friday, 13th July, North Side of Forster Range. Started early, proceeding
+to the gum creek coming from the north side of Forster's range, where we
+found a little water, numerous fresh tracks of natives, and a great
+number of birds. I have named this the Barrow Creek, after J.H. Barrow,
+Esquire, M.P. Crossed the range to the Stirling Creek, which we followed
+down, and found an abundant supply of water. The upper part of it is now
+dry, and it is difficult to say whether it is permanent or not; but, to
+judge from the number of native tracks and encampments, and the many
+birds, I should think it is. The wood-duck is also on some of the pools.
+At dark we can hear the natives down the creek.
+
+Saturday, 14th July, Stirling Creek. I shall give the horses a rest
+to-day and to-morrow, for I do not expect to get water before we reach
+the reservoir in the Reynolds range. I am afraid it will be all gone in
+the Hanson and at the Centre.
+
+Sunday, 15th July, Stirling Creek. Resting horses, etc., etc.
+
+Monday, 16th July, Stirling Creek. The natives were prowling about during
+the night, and startled three horses, which separated from the others,
+went off at full gallop, and were not recovered till noon, about four
+miles off. Too late to start to-day, for which I am very sorry, as every
+hour is now of the utmost value to us, in consequence of the evaporation
+of the water. Not the slightest appearance of any rain yet. Wind, south.
+
+Tuesday, 17th July, Stirling Creek. Proceeded to the Hanson. Shortly
+after we started, we were followed by the natives, shouting as they came
+along, but keeping at a respectful distance. They followed us through the
+scrub for about two hours, but when we came to the open ground at the
+lagoons they went off. I intended to have halted and spoken to them
+there, thinking it would not be safe to do so in the scrub. They were
+tall, powerful-looking fellows, and had their arms with them. We then
+went on to the Hanson, crossing numerous fresh native tracks. On nearing
+the water, we saw five blacks, who took fright and went off at full
+speed. There were many more in the distance; in fact, they seemed to be
+very numerous about here. The country all round was covered with their
+tracks. Found water still there, but had to clear the sand away a little
+to give the horses a drink. Thinking that it would not be safe to camp in
+the neighbourhood of so many natives, I went on to the Central Creek, and
+in going through some scrub, we again disturbed some more, but could only
+see children, one a little fellow about seven years old, who was cleaning
+some grass seeds in a worley, with a child who could just walk. The
+moment he saw us he jumped up, and, seizing his father's spear, took the
+child by the hand and walked off out of our way. It was quite pleasing to
+see the bold spirit of the little fellow. On nearing Central Mount Stuart
+we saw two men, who made off into the scrub. Arrived at the creek after
+dark, but the water is all gone. On examining the hole where the water
+was, we discovered a small native well, with a very little water, too
+little to be of any service to me. To-morrow morning I must push on
+through the scrub to Anna's Reservoir. My horses are still very weak, and
+I do not think they will be able to do it in a day. Wind variable.
+
+Wednesday, 18th July, Centre. Starting early, we crossed the Hanson, and
+got through the scrub to the gum plains, where we camped at sundown, the
+horses not being able to do the whole journey in one day. The creeks
+empty themselves into the plains, but there is no water. Still, from the
+number of birds that are about, I think there must be water not far away,
+but I have no time to search for it. If I do not find water in the gum
+creek (which is doubtful) the horses will have another long day's
+journey. They are suffering much from the dryness of the feed, three of
+them being infected with worms. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 19th July, Gum Plains. Made our way through the remainder of
+the scrub, and arrived in the afternoon at the gum creek, where we found
+a little water, and clearing away the sand, obtained enough for our
+horses. There will be enough for them to-day and to-morrow morning. I
+shall therefore stop here for the rest of the day. There are some heavy
+clouds coming up from the west and south-west, which I hope will give us
+rain. Wind still from the south-east. The natives have been upon our old
+tracks through the whole of the scrub in great numbers, and there are
+many traces of them about this creek, some of which are quite fresh. The
+drying up of the water round about has compelled them to collect round
+this and other creeks which are permanent.
+
+Friday, 20th July, Gum Creek North-east of Mount Freeling. Crossed the
+Reynolds range to Anna's Reservoir, which is still full of water. I may
+now say that this is permanent. The water we camped at is gone, but there
+is still a little down the creek. We could not get enough for the horses
+this morning in the creek we have left. Judging from the number of native
+tracks that we have crossed this morning, there must be permanent water
+on the north side of the range, which is composed of immense blocks of
+granite, apparently on the top of mica slate, with occasional courses of
+quartz and ironstone. To the north-east of where we camped last night,
+about three miles distant, is the point of the range, on which there is a
+very remarkable high peak, composed of ironstone, with a number of very
+rough rounded ironstone hills. I have named this Mount Freeling. Here I
+found indications of copper, the only place I have seen it in all this
+journey. The natives do not seem to have frequented this reservoir much
+of late, as there were no fresh tracks within two miles of it. In the
+creek close by, there were some very old worleys. No rain;
+clouds all gone. Wind, still south-east.
+
+Saturday, 21st July, Anna's Reservoir, Reynolds Range. I shall remain
+here till Monday morning to rest the horses, for they need it much; they
+all have sore backs. A small pimple made its appearance under the saddle,
+and has gradually spread into a large sore, which we cannot heal up; it
+makes them very weak. The clouds have again made their appearance from
+the north-west, and the wind has also changed to that quarter. I hope we
+shall now get some rain, so that I can make short journeys for my horses,
+to enable them to gather strength. Two long journeys on successive days
+without water would reduce them again to the same state of weakness as
+they were in at the Bonney Creek. For the last fourteen days we have been
+getting a quantity of the native cucumber and other vegetables, which
+have done me a great deal of good; the pains in my limbs and back are
+much relieved, and I trust will soon go away altogether if these
+vegetables hold out. We boil and eat the cucumbers with a little sugar,
+and in this way they are very good, and resemble the gooseberry; we have
+obtained from one plant upwards of two gallons of them, averaging from
+one to two inches in length, and an inch in breadth.
+
+Sunday, 22nd July, Anna's Reservoir. On examining the creek near the
+reservoir, we have found some more large and deep water holes. I have
+named this Wicksteed Creek. The clouds are again heavy, and have every
+appearance of rain; they and the wind both come from the north-west.
+
+Monday, 23rd July, Anna's Reservoir. No rain has fallen; again all the
+clouds are gone. Started early for the spring in the North gorge,
+McDonnell range, which we noticed on April 14th. Camped at dark in the
+thick scrub and spinifex. No feed for the horses, so we had to tie them
+up during the night. Wind, south-east again.
+
+Tuesday, 24th July, Dense Scrub and Spinifex. Started through the
+remainder of the scrub to the gorge, where we arrived at 7 o'clock, after
+twelve hours' journey. Camped outside, and drove the horses up to the
+spring. There is still the same supply of water; it is an excellent
+spring, and might be of great importance to future exploration. I have
+named it Hamilton Spring. Wind, variable.
+
+Wednesday, 25th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell range. Resting the
+horses. Yesterday afternoon we passed a great number of fresh tracks of
+natives apparently going to Hamilton Peak, which leads me to think there
+must be permanent water there. The peak is very high--quite as high as
+Mount Arden, but there is another part of the spur higher than it, to
+which I have given the name of Mount Hugh; further to the west-north-west
+is a mount, still higher, which I have named Mount Hay. Wind, north-east.
+It has been very hot to-day.
+
+Thursday, 26th July, Hamilton Spring, McDonnell Range. Started across the
+ranges to Brinkley Bluff, and camped on the east side. There is still
+plenty of water in the Hugh, although greatly reduced. The natives have
+been following our former tracks in great numbers; some of their
+foot-prints are very large. There is a great quantity of marble in this
+creek.
+
+Friday, 27th July, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Started down the
+Hugh, and camped on the south side of Brinkley Bluff, finding plenty of
+water all the way, in holes of various sizes, with reeds and rushes
+growing round them, with plenty of feed on the banks. Wind, variable.
+
+Saturday, 28th July, The Hugh, South Side of Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell
+Range. Proceeded towards the Waterhouse range, and stopped at my former
+camp of the 11th April. The spring still gives out an abundance of water;
+we have also found another good spring on the south side of the creek,
+which is here very broad, nearly two hundred yards wide, with a good
+feeding country all round, and a small strip of salt-bush on the banks.
+Splendid gum-trees in the creek. Wind, east; sun, hot.
+
+Sunday, 29th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges.
+Wind variable; some clouds coming from the south-west.
+
+Monday, 30th July, The Hugh, between McDonnell and Waterhouse Ranges.
+Proceeded towards the range; at four miles crossed the creek, and half a
+mile further entered the ranges. We made our former camp of April 9th on
+the creek, but no water, so followed it down to the westward, and after
+clearing a hole, found sufficient for our wants in the sand. Camped. Very
+unwell. Wind, south-east. Not a drop of rain has fallen since we were
+here before.
+
+Tuesday, 31st July, Between the Waterhouse and James Ranges. Started on a
+course of 220 degrees, following down the creek through James range,
+instead of crossing it. I am afraid there will be no water at our camp on
+the south side. I have a chance of getting some in the range. At two
+miles met with a good water hole, under a sandstone hill. At seven miles
+the creek enters the range; the bed is broad, sandy, and gravelled. At
+twelve miles we found some water, and camped, as I am too unwell to
+continue in the saddle any longer. Cleared a hole, and obtained water
+sufficient for our purpose. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 1st August, In James Range, on the Hugh. Followed the creek
+through the remainder of the range, and found water in four different
+places. I have not the least doubt that there is plenty, but the creek is
+so broad, and divided into so many courses, that it would require four
+men at least to examine it well. On arriving at our camp of the 7th
+April, we found all the water gone. Scratched in the sand, and found a
+little moisture, but no water; after a fruitless search of an hour, I was
+going back to the last water that I had seen, six miles distant, when two
+emus came into the creek, and made for a large gum-tree in the middle. On
+going to it, I found a fine hole of water round its roots. Camped. Wind
+the same.
+
+Thursday, 2nd August, The Hugh, South Side of James Range. Went down the
+south side of the creek, through good grassy country. At fourteen miles
+in a side creek we found a native well about four feet deep. We camped
+here, as there is little prospect of finding any more water in the Hugh,
+which is become broad and sandy. As to surface water, my men have neither
+the strength nor the appliances for digging. There is plenty of water
+under this sand, but having only a small tin dish, the labour is too
+great. My men have now lost all their former energy and activity, and
+move about as if they were a hundred years old; it is sad to see them;
+our horses, too, suffer very much from their sore backs. On the south
+side of the creek are some isolated hills, chiefly composed of limestone,
+ironstone, quartz, and granite. This morning there was ice on the water
+left in the tin dish, and also in the canteens, an eighth of an inch
+thick. It was very cold.
+
+Friday, 3rd August, James Range. I find the water in the well is nearly
+all gone this morning. It would take us nine hours to water the horses
+here, so slowly does it come in; I must therefore go back to our last
+camp. I shall follow the creek round, for there might be a chance of
+getting some nearer. Saddled, and proceeded up the creek, and at four
+miles found a little under the limestone rocks coming from a small side
+creek; gave the horses a drink turning back, and made for the Finke on a
+course of 160 degrees. Crossing a few stony hills and small plains, at
+ten miles, we ascended a broken table range, which I have named Warwick
+Range; it is composed of hard grey limestone and ironstone. We then
+proceeded through a well-grassed country, with mulga bushes, and at
+twenty miles camped under a redstone hill, not being able to get any
+further. No water.
+
+Saturday, 4th August, Small Hill between the Hugh and the Finke. The
+horses strayed a long way in the night, so that I did not get them till
+after 11 o'clock this morning, and could not start until noon. Passed
+over a country of much the same description as yesterday, crossing three
+stony hills running nearly east and west, and at nine miles camped,
+without water, in a fine grassy country, which, as the grass is green,
+will be quite a treat for the horses. About six miles north of Chambers
+Pillar. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 5th August, North of Chambers Pillar. At sunrise heavy clouds
+came up from the south-east, bringing with them a very thick fog, through
+which I had great difficulty in steering my course; it cleared off about
+10 o'clock. I expected rain, but none has fallen; it is now quite clear
+again. Arrived at the Finke at 12 o'clock, and was very much surprised to
+find so little water. I had no idea it would have gone away so soon. The
+bed is very broad and sandy, which is the cause of the rapid
+disappearance of the large quantity that I saw when I crossed before.
+This is a great disappointment, as it was my intention to run it down, in
+the hope that it would take me into South Australia. I shall go one day's
+journey down, and see what it is; if I can find no more water I must
+return to this, to rest my horses, and push for the Stevenson. I cannot
+remain here, for this water will only last a short time. My provisions
+will barely carry me down, and there is not the least appearance of rain.
+I am afraid my retreat is cut off. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
+
+Monday, 6th August, The Finke. Thick fog again this morning. From the
+heavy clouds that have passed yesterday to the south of us, I think a
+shower of rain may have fallen there; I ought not to allow the chance of
+it to escape, as it is likely to be my only one until the equinox, and I
+have not provisions sufficient to remain until that time, so I must push
+the horses as far as they will go, and then we must walk the rest, which
+is a very black prospect, considering the weak state we all are in.
+Proceeded to the south-east, having camped on my former course at two
+clay-pans, where I think there is a chance of water, if a shower has
+fallen there. Started on our former course and arrived at the clay-pans
+without seeing a drop of water; neither is there any in them. Camped; the
+horses being very tired, from coming through so many sand hills.
+
+Tuesday, 7th August, Clay-pans in Sand Hills. A light dew fell last night
+and this morning, which I am very glad of; it will be a good thing for
+the horses. Kekwick was unwell last night, but I cannot stop on his
+account. He must endure it the best way he can. If I find water at where
+I suppose the Finke joins the gum creek that runs a little north of Mount
+Humphries, I will remain there a day to give him rest. He is completely
+done up. I hope he will not get worse. I must push back as quickly as
+possible, and get him into the settled districts. At noon we made the
+Finke. Still the same white, sandy bed; but here it is about a quarter of
+a mile broad, and the east bank is composed of white sandstone, with a
+course of light slate on the top of it, then courses of limestone and
+other rocks, and, on the top of all, red sand hills. The gum-trees are
+not so large as they are further north. On first striking the creek we
+could find no water, but, by following it down for a short distance, we
+discovered a little, which will do for us. It is more than I expected,
+and I feel most thankful for it. Kekwick still very ill. Poor fellow, he
+is suffering very much. I dare not show him much pity, or I should have
+the other giving in altogether. I hope and trust he will soon get better
+again, and that to-morrow's rest may do him good. He has been a most
+valuable man to me. I place entire confidence in him. A better one I
+could not have got. I wish the other had been like him, and then neither
+he nor I should have suffered so much from hunger. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 8th August, The Finke. Resting Kekwick and shoeing horses.
+This water was going away very rapidly, so I rode down the creek for ten
+miles to see if there were any more, that I may risk following it down.
+After joining the West Creek it spreads itself over a broad valley,
+bounded on the north by sand hills and on the south by stony hills.
+Course, eastward. It is divided into numerous courses; very sandy, and
+immense quantities of drift wood about it. Some very large gum-trees
+piled high on the banks, and a great number of birds of every
+description; but I could find no water. It is so broad, with so many
+courses, that it would require half a dozen men to examine it well. If we
+were to stay searching for water here, and be unsuccessful, and the
+creeks on ahead were to be dried up, we should lose our horses and have
+to walk, which Kekwick could not do. I do not consider it would be right
+thus to risk his life. I shall therefore make for the Stevenson, where I
+am almost certain to find water. Wind, east.
+
+Thursday, 9th August, The Finke. Started early on our former tracks,
+passing Mount Humphrey and Mount Beddome. Camped at our old place. I
+should think from the appearance of the country that the Finke takes a
+south-east course from where I left it yesterday. The hills run that way.
+Wind, south-south-east.
+
+Friday, 10th August, South of Mount Beddome. Proceeded on our former
+course to the Stevenson, which we made a little before dark, and found
+water, but I am quite surprised to see so little of it left. The fine
+large holes are nearly dry. Wind, east.
+
+Saturday, 11th August, The Stevenson. The horses having lost some shoes,
+I am forced to remain here to-day to put others on. There is more water a
+little further down the creek, at which I camped. No rain seems to have
+fallen since I was here before. The sun has been very hot to-day. Wind,
+east-south-east.
+
+Sunday, 12th August, The Stevenson. I was too unwell to move yesterday,
+but, feeling a little better this morning, I rode down the creek. For
+three miles it takes a south-east course, then east-south-east through
+table land, with rocky and precipitous hills on each side. I then went on
+a south-east course for nine miles, through a splendidly-grassed country,
+with numerous small creeks running into the Stevenson. During my ride I
+found plenty of water, and splendid grass, up to the saddle-flaps, and
+quite green. Ducks and numerous other birds abound here; the water is
+quite alive with them. I regret that I have not provisions enough to
+enable me to follow this creek round its different bends. It is a
+splendid feeding country for cattle, and much resembles Chambers Creek.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 13th August, The Stevenson. Started on a course of 135 degrees to
+see if the Stevenson comes from the south; continued on the table land,
+from where I left it yesterday for sixteen miles from last night's camp,
+when we suddenly dropped into the bed of a large broad sandy gum-creek,
+coming from the west, which I find to be the Ross. There are many rushes
+about it; it runs in three or four courses, in all of which water can be
+obtained by scratching in the sand. There are plenty of birds. It is
+evidently raining to the east of this. Camped. My course takes me across
+the middle of a range, which I shall endeavour to cross to-morrow. There
+are two small springs, but they are brackish. Wind, south.
+
+Tuesday, 14th August, The Ross. Started on the same course, 135 degrees,
+and again ascended the stony table land. Crossing thence, we met two
+small myall-creeks running north-east with birds upon them. At seven
+miles crossed another, and found a fine large deep water hole with ducks
+on it. We again ascended the table land, which continued to the range,
+and at sixteen miles gained the top, which is table land about a mile
+broad; the view is extensive to the east-north-east and north. We
+descended on a course of 175 degrees to search for water in the creek
+below. We crossed a number of myall-creeks, coming from the range, and
+running south-east; in many the water has just dried up. At six miles on
+the same course we found water and camped, the horses being tired by
+their rough journey. This water hole is not permanent although when full
+it is deep and large, and will last a considerable time. The Stevenson
+and Ross seem to take a north-east course. On a further examination of
+this creek I found a large hole of water about two hundred yards long and
+thirty broad, with birds upon it, and plants that grow round permanent
+water. I also found shells. This creek I have named Anderson Creek, after
+James Anderson, Esquire, of Port Lincoln, and the range Bagot Range,
+after the Honourable the Commissioner of Crown Lands.
+
+Wednesday, 15th August, Anderson Creek. Started towards the south-east
+point of Bagot range, which I find to be five miles distant. The country
+between is undulating and stony, with plenty of grass. To the east, about
+thirty miles, is a high isolated hill, bearing 100 degrees. At six miles
+and a half crossed a myall and gum creek, in which, about a mile to the
+east, under a red bank, is a large water hole, seemingly permanent. At
+ten miles crossed the Frew, whose bed is sandy, and has many courses, the
+banks being covered with rushes. The rest of the day's journey was
+through mallee scrub and sand hills, in which we camped without water;
+the feed, however, is abundant, yet not so thick as when I crossed
+before.* (* See ante, March 28, 29, and 30.) Wind, south.
+
+Thursday, 16th August, Mulga Scrub and Sand Hills. Started at 7 o'clock
+on a course of 170 degrees, and in four hours made the Neale, and camped,
+as there was still plenty of water.
+
+Friday, 17th August, The Neale. Proceeded on a south-east course, and
+camped on a side branch of the Neale, with plenty of water in large
+holes. Wind, east.
+
+Saturday, 18th August, Side Branch of the Neale. Proceeded towards the
+gap in Hanson range, and camped near one of the large water holes. It is
+very cloudy.
+
+Sunday, 19th August, Gap in the Hanson Range. Still cloudy, and looks
+like rain, so we must push on to-day, in case the Peake River should come
+down and stop us, which would not suit the state of my provisions, as we
+have lost a quantity of flour by the scrub scoring the bags, and we have
+not enough to take us to Chambers Creek. At eight miles camped
+west-north-west of Freeling Springs, having given the horses a drink in
+crossing the Neale.
+
+Monday, 20th August, Sand Hills West-north-west of Freeling Springs. It
+still threatens for rain. Proceeded to Kekwick Springs to see if the
+horse we had left in the Peake had got out. We found his bones; he does
+not seem to have made a struggle since we left him, as he is in the same
+position. From the number of tracks, the natives must have visited him.
+Proceeded to Freeling Springs and camped. There were a number of ducks
+and two swans on the large water hole. We shot one of the latter, which
+was a great treat to our half-starved party. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 21st August, Freeling Springs. Still cloudy, and we had a few
+drops of rain during the night; also distant thunder and lightning.
+Resting horses. Wind, north-east.
+
+Wednesday, 22nd August, Freeling Springs. Proceeded through Denison
+range, and camped at the Milne Springs. Wind, north-east. Still cloudy,
+but no rain.
+
+Thursday, 23rd August, Milne Springs. Went on and camped at Louden Spa.
+Wind variable.
+
+Friday, 24th August, Louden Spa. Camped at the William Springs. Wind,
+north-west.
+
+Saturday, 25th August, William Springs. Proceeded to the Strangway and
+Beresford Springs, and camped at Paisley Ponds. Wind, north-east.
+
+Sunday, 26th August, Paisley Ponds. During the night thunder and
+lightning from the north-west, with a few drops of rain. Cloudy this
+morning; had a few showers on our journey to Hamilton Springs. Found Mr.
+Brodie camped there three miles south-east of Mount Hamilton. He received
+and treated us with the greatest kindness.
+
+Mr. Stuart and his party remained at Hamilton Springs until 1st
+September, when they proceeded to Chambers Creek, where, having reached
+the settled districts, his journal ends.
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S FIFTH EXPEDITION. FROM NOVEMBER, 1860, TO
+SEPTEMBER, 1861.
+
+When Mr. Stuart reached Adelaide, in October, 1860, on his return from
+his last expedition, bringing with him the intelligence that he had
+penetrated to the northward almost as far as the eighteenth degree of
+south latitude, and had only been forced to retreat by the hostility of
+the natives, the South Australian Parliament voted a sum of 2500 pounds
+for a larger, better-armed, and more perfectly organized party, of which
+he was to be the leader. The ill-fated Victorian expedition, under Burke
+and Wills, had already started from Melbourne, on the previous 20th of
+August, amid all the excitement of a popular ovation, but a messenger was
+instantly despatched by the Victorian Government to overtake them, in
+order to give them what information the South Australian Government
+allowed to be known. On the 29th of November Mr. Stuart was ready to
+start once more, and left Moolooloo with seven men and thirty horses,
+arriving at Mr. Glen's station on the 1st of December, and at Goolong
+Springs on the 4th. He was delayed at the latter place for several days,
+in consequence of the horses, and more especially the town horses, being
+unmanageable and unequal to their work. The party reached Welcome Springs
+on the 8th, and Finniss Springs on the 11th. The water at Finniss Springs
+seemed to have an injurious influence on the town horses, but those that
+had been with Mr. Stuart on his previous journeys were not so much
+affected. The following evening they arrived at Chambers Creek, where
+they remained until the end of the month.
+
+During their stay at Chambers Creek they were occupied in killing and
+drying bullocks, mending saddles, weighing rations, shoeing horses, and
+generally preparing to start. Several of the horses, which had been
+knocked up and left behind on the way, had to be brought up; others
+became quite blind, one was lost, and one died. On the 31st of December
+four fresh horses arrived, which had been kindly sent up by Mr. Finke the
+moment he heard of the difficulty in which Mr. Stuart was placed. The
+party was also further increased, both by horses and men, so that when it
+left Chambers Creek, on the 1st of January, 1861, it numbered twelve men
+and forty-nine horses. The following is the list of those who started:--
+
+John McDouall Stuart, Leader of the Expedition.
+William Kekwick, Second in Command.
+F. Thring, Third Officer.
+-- Ewart, Storekeeper.
+-- Sullivan, Shoeing Smith.
+-- Thompson, Saddler.
+-- Lawrence.
+-- Masters.
+J. Woodforde.
+-- Wall.
+E.E. Bayliffe.
+J. Thomas.
+
+Shortly after starting, the horses that Mr. Finke sent up went off at a
+gallop, taking with them one of the others; but, at about a mile, they
+were headed by Ewart, Wall, and Lawrence, and brought back covered with
+sweat. Not content with this gallop, in a short time afterwards they
+bolted again. This last one seemed to content them, for they went very
+quietly for the rest of the day; they had, however, lost a pick, which
+could not be found. The party arrived at Mr. Ferguson's station, at
+Hamilton Springs, that evening. Louden Spa was reached on the 8th of
+January. The next day Mr. Stuart writes:
+
+"Wednesday, 9th January, Louden Spa. I am obliged to leave two horses. I
+thought that I should have been able to have got them down as far as Mr.
+Levi's station. There are three others that I must leave behind; they are
+now nearly useless to me, and cause more delay than I can afford. I shall
+reduce my party to ten individuals, in order to lighten the horses that I
+take with me. I shall take thirty weeks' provisions; the rest I shall
+leave there (Mr. Levi's station). The two men who are to return are to
+have a month's provisions to carry them down. They will be here two
+weeks, and if the horses have not recovered by that time, they will
+remain another week, when they will have one week's provisions to take
+them to Chambers Creek, where they will get enough to carry them to the
+mine."
+
+Bayliffe and Thomas were the two men selected to return, and it may not
+be without interest to follow them back to the settled districts. They
+did not arrive at Melrose, Mount Remarkable, until the latter end of
+March. Thomas was suffering severely from rheumatism, and had to be
+conveyed in a cart for the last six miles of his journey from a place
+where he and his companion had camped for the purpose of recruiting
+themselves. They had been obliged to leave two of the horses at Mr.
+Mather's station, and two more had died on the road. The men arrived with
+one horse only, which they were using as a pack-horse.
+
+But to return to the rest of the party, who reached Mr. Levi's station
+the same evening (January 9th) on which they parted from the two men. On
+Friday, January 11th, Mr. Stuart writes:
+
+"I have now all put in order, and consider myself fairly started, with
+thirty weeks' provisions. Day extremely hot. An eclipse of the sun took
+place at noon. Although our poor little dog Toby is carried on one of the
+pack-horses, he is unable to bear this great heat. I fear he will not
+survive the day. Arrived at Milne Springs about 5 p.m. At sundown poor
+little Toby died, regretted by us all, for he had already become a great
+favourite."
+
+On January 21st Mr. Stuart reached the Neale Creek, a little to the east
+of where he struck it before, but found that the large bodies of water
+had nearly all gone; by digging in the sand of the main channel, however,
+they obtained sufficient for their immediate wants. Exploring parties
+were despatched up and down the creek, and returned, reporting abundance
+of water eight miles above and five miles below where they were. They
+also brought back with them some fish, resembling the bream, which were
+very palatable when cooked. An attack of dysentery prevented Mr. Stuart
+from proceeding for a few days, and, during his stay, the natives, while
+studiously keeping themselves out of sight, set fire to the surrounding
+grass. On the 27th the expedition arrived at the Hamilton, after a heavy
+journey of thirty-five miles. "I observed," says Mr. Stuart, "a peculiar
+feature in one of the families of the mulga bushes; the branches seemed
+to be covered with hoar frost, but on closer examination it turned out to
+be a substance resembling honey in taste and thickness. It was
+transparent, and presented a very pretty appearance when the sun shone
+upon it, making the branches look as though they were hung with small
+diamonds."
+
+The course now taken was through Bagot range to the Stevenson, where they
+arrived on February 1st. The next day they proceeded northward, and at
+eight miles came upon a large water hole, which was named Lindsay Creek,
+after J. Lindsay, Esquire, M.L.A. This water hole was one hundred and
+fifty yards long, thirty wide, and from eight to fifteen feet deep in the
+deepest parts. The native cucumber was growing upon its banks, and the
+feed was abundant. Here they met with immense numbers of brown pigeons,
+of the same description as those found by Captain Sturt in 1845. There
+were thousands of them; in fact, they flew by in such dense masses that,
+on two occasions, Woodforde killed thirteen with a single shot. The
+travellers pronounced them first-rate eating. Many natives, tall,
+powerful fellows, were seen, but they did not speak with them. After
+trying for water in the neighbourhood of Mount Daniel, they were
+compelled to return to Lindsay Creek, which they did not quit until
+February 9th, when they camped on another creek, which was named the
+Coglin, after P.B. Coglin, Esquire, M.L.A. From this place Mr. Stuart
+started, accompanied by Thring and Woodforde, to examine the condition of
+the Finke, and found its bed broad, and filled with white drift sand, but
+without water. A hole ten feet deep was sunk in the sand, but just as the
+increasing moisture gave them hope of finding water, the sides gave way,
+and Thring had a narrow escape of being buried alive. After sinking
+several other holes, but without success, they turned to another creek,
+coming more from the westward, and in a short time discovered six native
+wells near to what was evidently a large camping-place of the natives.
+The ground for one hundred yards round was covered with worleys, and at
+one spot they seemed to have had a grand corroberrie, the earth being
+trodden quite hard, as if a large number had been dancing upon it in a
+circle. They had left one of their spears behind, a formidable weapon
+about ten feet long, with a flat round point, the other end being made
+for throwing with the womera. On the 13th Mr. Stuart and his two
+companions returned to the camp on the Coglin, after discovering a place
+about four miles from the six native wells, where sufficient water could
+be obtained by digging. On the 14th three of the men were sent in advance
+to dig a hole at this place, and the following day the whole party moved
+forward to join them. Here the natives annoyed them much by setting fire
+to the grass in every direction.
+
+Marchant Springs (on the Finke) were reached on February 22nd, and here
+Mr. Stuart noticed a remarkable specimen of native carving. He says: "The
+natives had made a drawing on the bark of two trees--two figures in the
+shape of hearts, intended, I suppose, to represent shields. There was a
+bar down the centre, on either side of which were marks like broad
+arrows. On the outside were also a number of arrows, and other small
+marks. I had a copy of them taken. This was the first attempt at
+representation by the natives of Australia which I had ever seen."
+
+Following the course of the Finke, they arrived on the 25th at some
+springs which were rendered memorable by Mr. Stuart's favourite mare
+Polly. She became very ill, and on the morning of the 26th slipped her
+foal. Polly had been with her master on all his previous journeys, and
+was much too valuable and faithful a creature to be left behind; besides,
+she was second to none in enduring hardship and fatigue. They therefore
+waited another night to give her time to recover, and Mr. Stuart named
+the springs Polly Springs in her honour. On the 27th they again moved
+northwards, still following the course of the Finke, and, after a short
+journey of ten miles, camped at what were afterwards called Bennett
+Springs. It is worthy of remark that while the horses were in this water
+drinking, one of them kicked out a fish about eight inches long and three
+broad--an excellent sign of the permanency of the water. Here several of
+the horses were taken violently ill, and the next morning one of them
+could not be found. Mr. Stuart writes:
+
+"Thursday, 28th February, The Finke, Bennett Springs. Found all the
+horses but one named Bennett. Sent two of the party out in search of him;
+at 9 a.m. they returned, having been all round, but could see nothing of
+him. I then sent out four, to go round the tracks and see if he had
+strayed into the sand hills. At noon they returned unsuccessful. Sent
+five men to search, but at 2 p.m. they likewise returned without having
+discovered him. I then went out myself, and, in half-an-hour, found the
+poor animal lying dead in a hole, very much swollen. Blood seemed to have
+come from his mouth and nostrils. He must have died during the night. I
+am afraid that there is some description of poisonous plant in the sand
+hills, and that the horses have eaten some of it. As he lay he appeared
+to have been coming from the sand hills, and making for the water. He
+seemed to have fallen down three times before he died. I never saw horses
+taken in the same way before--in a moment they fell down and became quite
+paralysed. The cream-coloured horse, that was taken so ill last night,
+must also have eaten the poison. We were upwards of two hours before we
+could get him right. As soon as he got on his legs, his limbs shook so
+that he immediately fell down. This he did for more than a dozen times.
+As we were very much in want of hobble-straps, I sent Mr. Kekwick, with
+three others, to take Bennett's skin and shoes off. We found no
+indication of poison on opening him. This is a very great loss to me, for
+he was one of my best packhorses--one that had been with me before, and
+that I could depend upon for a hard push."
+
+On the 2nd March, while still following the course of the Finke, they
+passed two or three holes containing fish about eight inches long, and
+enclosed by small brush fences, apparently for the purpose of catching
+fish. They also saw a lot of shields, spears, waddies, etc., which the
+natives had deposited under a bush. As to the aborigines themselves,
+although it was evident there were plenty of them about, they never
+allowed themselves to be seen. There was an abundance of timber which Mr.
+Stuart says would be well suited for electric-telegraph poles.
+
+Mr. Stuart's journal continues as follows:
+
+Tuesday, 5th March, The Finke. Started at 8.5 a.m., bearing 345 degrees,
+for the Hugh, with Thring and Lawrence. On arriving there found the water
+nearly all gone, only a little in a well dug by the natives; cleared it
+out, but it took us until 12 p.m. to water the four horses. At three
+miles further, we passed round a high conspicuous table hill, having a
+slanting and shelving front to the south; this I have named Mount Santo,
+after Philip Santo, Esquire, M.P. The country passed over to-day has been
+sand hills, with spinifex, grassy plains, with mulga and other shrubs,
+and occasionally low table-topped hills, composed of sand, lime, and
+ironstone, also the hard whitish flinty rock; kangaroo plentiful, but
+very wild. Wind south-east. The day has been very hot; horses very tired.
+
+Wednesday, 6th March, The Hugh. Started at 8.45 a.m. on a bearing of 209
+degrees. At nine miles, finding the water gone that I had seen on my last
+return, I dug down to the clay, and obtained a little, but not enough for
+us. Followed the creek up into the gorge, and found it very dry. Our
+former tracks are still visible in the bed of the creek. No rain seems to
+have fallen here since last March. I had almost given up all hopes of
+finding any water, when, at seven miles, we met with a few rushes, which
+revived our sinking hopes; and, at eight miles, our eyes and ears were
+delighted with the sight and sound of numerous diamond birds, a sure sign
+of the proximity of water. At the mouth of a side creek coming from the
+James range, on the eastern side of the Hugh, found an excellent water
+hole, apparently both deep and permanent. We saw a native and his lubra
+at the upper end at a brush fence in the water; they appeared to be
+fishing, and did not see us until I called to them. The female was the
+first who left the water; she ran to the bank, took up her child, and
+made for a tree, up which she climbed, pushing her young one up before
+her. She was a tall, well-made woman. The man (an old fellow), tall,
+stout, and robust, although startled at our appearance, took it leisurely
+in getting out of the water, ascended the bank, and had a look at us; he
+then addressed us in his own language, and seemed to work himself up into
+a great passion, stopping every now and then and spitting fiercely at us
+like an old tiger. He also ascended the tree, and then gave us a second
+edition of it. We leisurely watered our horses, and he was very much
+surprised to see Thring dismount and lead the pack-horse down to the
+water, so much so that he never said another word, but remained staring
+at us until we departed, when he commenced again. This water being
+sufficient for my purpose, I will go no further up the creek, but return
+to the last night's camp. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 7th March, The Hugh. As my horses are very tired, and the
+distance between my main camp on the Finke and the water we discovered
+yesterday being upwards of fifty miles, I will remain here to-day, dig
+down to the clay, and try if I can obtain enough water for all the party;
+for, owing to the extreme heat, and the dryness of the feed, many of our
+weak horses are unable to go a night without water. By 8 p.m. we dug a
+trench ten feet long, two feet and a half deep, and two feet and a half
+broad; it is about twelve feet below the level of the creek. We have had
+a very hard day's work. Wind, south-east. Day very hot.
+
+Friday, 8th March, The Hugh. This morning very cold; wind, still
+south-east. The trench is quite full; our four horses made very little
+impression on it. I shall send up and enlarge the trench, so that we may
+be enabled to water the whole lot. At 6.40 a.m. started back for the
+camp. At 1.45 p.m. halted to give the horses a little rest. At 2.30 p.m.
+changed to 184 degrees, and at four miles reached the table hills, but
+there was no creek, only a number of clay-pans, all quite dry, with
+stunted gum-trees growing round them. Changed my bearing to Mount Santo,
+passing a number of clay-pans of the same description; from thence
+proceeded to the camp; arrived there at sundown, and found all right.
+Plenty of water; the horses make little impression on it. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Saturday, 9th March, The Finke. I shall give Thring a rest to-day, and
+will send him with two others, and a part of the horses, to-morrow to the
+Hugh, to make a place large enough to water all. From about 2 a.m. until
+after sunrise the morning has been very cold. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 10th March, The Finke. At 7 a.m. despatched Thring, Thompson, and
+Sullivan, with eleven pack and three riding-horses, to the Hugh to dig a
+tank. Wind, still south-east; clouds east.
+
+Monday, 11th March, The Finke. Clouds all gone; wind still south-east. I
+will remain here to-day with the rest of the party, to give the others
+time to have all ready for us when we arrive. One of the horses missing;
+found him in the afternoon. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 12th March, The Finke. Started at 8.30 a.m. for the Hugh, course
+345 degrees, following our former tracks. The day has been exceedingly
+hot; wind from east and south-east, with heavy clouds in the same
+direction. About 3 p.m. missed the party that was behind; they were last
+seen about one mile and a half back. Thinking that the packs had gone
+wrong, and that they were remaining behind to repair them, I waited an
+hour, but finding they did not come up, I sent Ewart back to the place
+where they were last seen to find out what was wrong; in an hour he
+returned, and informed me that their tracks were going away to the
+eastward. As the James range was in sight, and two of the party had been
+there before, I concluded that they must have lost my tracks and were
+pushing on for the water. This loss of two hours would make it late
+before we arrived there, so we hurried on; but within four miles it
+became so dark, from the sky being overcast with heavy clouds, and the
+mulga bushes being so thick, that we were in great danger of losing some
+of our pack-horses, for we could not see them more than ten yards off. I
+therefore camped until daylight, having to tie the horses during the
+night. Wind variable.
+
+Wednesday, 13th March, Between the Finke and the Hugh. Started at
+daybreak; and in a little more than an hour arrived at the Hugh; found
+that Thring had gone up the creek to the other water, not finding enough
+here for the horses he had with him. We could only get sufficient for ten
+of ours. As the fire was still alight, I was led to believe that the
+other party had arrived here last night, having had two hours more
+sunlight than we, and that they, seeing Thring's note to me, which he had
+fastened on a tree, and also the small quantity of water, had watered
+their horses last night, and gone on this morning, leaving the water that
+had accumulated during the night for us and our horses; we cleared out
+the hole in order to obtain sufficient for our other five. At about 10
+a.m. had breakfast; before we finished, the other party came in sight;
+they had lost the tracks, and could not find them again. They made the
+creek about one mile to the eastward. Unsaddled and gave their horses a
+rest, and as much water as we could get for the weak ones; those of mine
+which have had none will have to go without. By 1 p.m. obtained a drink
+for seven of them. Pushed on to the other water, fifteen miles up the
+creek; arrived there a little before sundown. The day, although cloudy,
+has been very hot. Found Thring and his party all right. They had seen no
+more of our spitting friend. Wind variable, with heavy clouds from east
+and south-east, but still no rain.
+
+Thursday, 14th March, The Hugh, James Range. As the done-up horses will
+not be able to travel to-day, I have sent Thring and Wall up the creek to
+look for other water. Sky still overcast. No rain. Thring and Wall
+returned in the afternoon, having found water a little below the surface,
+about nine miles up; a very light shower has fallen. Wind all round the
+compass.
+
+Friday, 15th March, The Hugh, James Range. A few drops of rain have
+fallen during the night, but this morning it seems to be breaking up
+again, which is a great disappointment. Started at 8 a.m., course 10
+degrees west of north; passed through the gorge in James range, found all
+the water gone that I had seen on my journey down; followed up the creek
+to the native wells that Thring found yesterday. This water is situated
+about one mile and a half from where the creek enters the gorge in James
+range, and under a concrete bank on the north side. The natives seem to
+have quitted this water on hearing us coming, for they have left behind
+them a large, long, and unfinished spear, two smaller ones, and some
+waddies, one of which was quite wet, as if the owner had been in the act
+of clearing out one of the wells when he heard or saw us coming: he also
+left a shield cut out of solid wood, which I think was, from its
+lightness, cork-wood. I also observed on one of the gum-trees, marks
+similar to those which I saw on the Finke, broad arrows and a wavy line
+round the tree. Still cloudy, but much broken. No rain. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 16th March, The Hugh, James Range. Rain all gone. Proceeded up
+the creek, course 30 degrees, to examine the east bend before it enters
+the Waterhouse range; in about six miles arrived and followed it upwards,
+pushing on through the gorge to the large water I had previously seen on
+the north side of the range; found it gone, but water in some native
+wells in its bed. Proceeded on to the second bend of the creek from
+Waterhouse range, to a water which I consider to be a spring (it is under
+conglomerate rock), and am glad to see that there is still a large hole
+of beautiful water, with bulrushes growing round about it. Camped. This
+water I have named Owen Springs, after William Owen, Esquire, M.P. Wind
+variable, from south-east to north-east. Cloudy.
+
+Sunday, 17th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. During the night we had a few
+light showers, which will be of great advantage to us, causing the green
+feed to spring up. The morning still cloudy; wind from the east, with a
+few drops of rain. Wind still variable--all round the compass.
+
+Monday, 18th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Very heavy clouds this
+morning; and it seemed as if it was setting in for a wet day, but it
+cleared off, and only a little rain fell. Wind still all round the
+compass.
+
+Tuesday, 19th March, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Saddled and started for
+Brinkley Bluff, bearing 349 degrees. After entering the McDonnell range
+the water is permanent. It has been here for twelve months; no rain has
+fallen during that time, for my former tracks, both up and down, are as
+distinct as if they had been made a month ago. At 3.30 p.m. camped at the
+waterhole about a mile north-west of Brinkley Bluff; it is situated under
+a rocky cliff. There are some seams of beautiful grey granite crossing
+the creek, and abundance of marble of all colours, also a little iron and
+limestone. We found some specimens of the palm tree, but there is neither
+seed nor blossom at this season of the year. Lawrence got one of the
+leaves, ate the lower end of it, and found it sweet--resembling
+sugar-cane; he ate a few inches of it, and in about two hours became very
+sick, and vomited a good deal during the evening. Wind variable; but
+mostly south-east, with heavy thunder clouds.
+
+Wednesday, 20th March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 p.m. we
+were delighted with the sight and feeling of heavy rain. At about 4 the
+creek came down, and by sunrise it was running at the rate of five miles
+an hour--a new and delightful sight to behold. At about 9 the clouds were
+breaking and the rain lighter. We were all truly thankful for this great
+boon. It is too wet to move to-day; the horses are bogging up to their
+knees. After sundown we had a heavy thunder storm, accompanied by vivid
+lightning, and heavy rain from south-east and east. Wind from
+same direction.
+
+Thursday, 21st March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Rain has continued
+at intervals during the night; a great deal has fallen. A horse having
+gone into the creek to drink during the night, one of his hobbles became
+undone, and got fastened to his hind shoe. He was found this morning up
+to his body in water, and unable to move. Having relieved him, it was
+with difficulty he could get out. He is in a tremble all over, and can
+scarcely walk. The ground is so soft, even on the hills, that we cannot
+walk without sinking above the ankle. I should gain nothing by starting
+to-day. It would injure the horses more than a week's travelling.
+
+Friday, 22nd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. About 1 a.m. the
+rain came down in torrents, and continued until nearly sunrise, from
+south-east. Wind from same quarter. It is impossible to move to-day. The
+creek is higher than it has been before, and running with great rapidity.
+All the horses were found right this morning but the one which got into
+the creek yesterday. After searching all the hills and the creeks round
+about, he was found in a small gully by himself.
+
+Saturday, 23rd March, Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range. Heavy shower of
+rain about 4 a.m. this morning. After sunrise it all cleared away and
+became fine. Started at 8.20 to cross the northern portion of the range
+by following the creek up. We have had a very hard and difficult journey
+of it. It is now 4 p.m., and we have arrived at Hamilton Springs. The
+ground was so soft, even at the top of the ranges, that we had the
+greatest difficulty in getting the horses through. We did so, however,
+with the loss of a great number of shoes, and many of the horses were
+very lame. Wind still south-east.
+
+Sunday 24th March, Hamilton Springs. I am compelled to have some of the
+horses shod to-day, and also to have a number of saddle-bags mended,
+which were torn by the scrub yesterday. This afternoon there is a great
+deal of thunder and lightning in the north and north-east.
+
+Monday, 25th March, Hamilton Springs. Part of the horses missing this
+morning in consequence of the green feed; did not get a start until 10.20
+a.m.; bearing 43 degrees. The country became so boggy after seven miles
+that we were unable to proceed further than eleven miles. There being no
+surface water, although the ground was so soft that the horses kept
+bogging up to their bodies, we were forced to retreat five miles to
+obtain some for them. Wind south-east, the stormy weather apparently
+breaking up. Camped at 5 p.m. Latitude, 23 degrees 28 minutes 51 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 26th March, Scrub North-east of Hamilton Springs. Started at 9
+a.m. on a south-south-east course to round the boggy country. At about
+six miles we were enabled to cross the lower part, and go in the
+direction of a low range. Camped on the north-east side of it. The last
+four miles were over fair travelling-country of a red soil, with mulga
+and other bushes, in some places rather thick, abounding in green grass.
+We also passed many bushes of the honey mulga, but the season is passed,
+and it is all dried up. Wind, east. Latitude by Pollux, 23 degrees 24
+minutes 51 seconds; by Jupiter, 23 degrees 24 minutes 52 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 27th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. More than half of the
+horses are missing this morning; at noon we have managed to get all but
+ten; they are scattered all over the place; at 5 p.m. they cannot be
+found, and the water is nearly all gone, and the country much dried
+towards Strangway range. I have sent the horses four miles back to a
+large clay-pan that we saw yesterday, to remain there to-night and in the
+morning to return. Two of the party to separate from there, and to go in
+search of the missing horses, which I suppose have gone back to the
+Hamilton Springs; it is very vexing, some of our best are amongst them.
+Wind, east.
+
+Thursday, 28th March, Low Granite Range in Scrub. At 11 a.m. the horses
+were brought back from the clay-pan. Two of the missing ones were found
+about a mile after they started, making towards where they had camped
+last night. I think that the other eight must be also in that direction;
+we find that all the tracks have gone that way; I shall therefore move
+down to-day to the south end of the swampy country, which I know they
+cannot cross, and endeavour, if possible, to find them to-night. By 1
+p.m. arrived at the end of the swamp; camped, and despatched Thring in
+one direction and Sullivan in another to try and cut their tracks; at a
+little before sunset Sullivan returned with three of the missing ones.
+Five are still wanting. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 29th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. At sunrise sent Thring
+and Sullivan again to look for the missing horses; they arrived at 5 p.m.
+with three of them. If we do not find the other two to-morrow, I shall
+push on without them, and endeavour to pick them up on our return.
+
+Saturday, 30th March, South End of Swamp in Scrub. Again sent Thring and
+Sullivan in search of the two remaining horses; at about 11 a.m. they
+returned with them. I shall now move up to our camp of 25th instant.
+Camped at some rain water a little south of our former place, where there
+is plenty of feed for the horses. Wind, south-east; clouds from
+north-west.
+
+Sunday, 31st March, Rain Water in Scrub. All day the sky has been
+overcast with clouds from the north-west. Wind from south-east.
+
+Monday, 1st April, Same Place. Started at 7.30 a.m.; course, 330 degrees.
+At 1 p.m. we came upon a very pretty flat of beautiful grass, with water
+in the middle of it; and, as the afternoon has every appearance of rain,
+I have camped--to go on in the rain will only spoil our provisions. We
+had scarcely got the packs off when it came on heavily, and lasted about
+an hour: it then ceased until sundown, when it came on again, and
+continued till 10.30 p.m.
+
+Tuesday, 2nd April, Green Flat in Scrub. Started at 8.20 a.m. on same
+course, and camped at 1.30 p.m. under a prominent rocky hill, which I
+ascended and have named Mount Harris, after Peter G. Harris, Esquire, of
+Adelaide. I obtained bearings of the different points all round. The last
+seven miles was sandy soil, with spinifex and scrub, which was mostly
+young cork-tree, and the broad-leafed mallee.
+
+Wednesday, 3rd April, Mount Harris. We have put up a small cone of stones
+on the top of this mount. Started at 8 a.m. for Anna's Reservoir. Arrived
+at the creek about two miles south-south-east of it, and, finding it
+running, camped amongst excellent feed. By keeping to west of my former
+track I have found the country much opener; but nearly all day the
+journey has been through spinifex. Wind from west.
+
+Thursday, 4th April, The Wicksteed, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.40 a.m.
+to cross the range, bearing to Mount Freeling 312 degrees. At 1.30 p.m.
+crossed the range, and arrived at the creek, camping at the same place as
+I did on my previous journey, and finding water and feed abundant. I have
+named this creek the Woodforde, after Dr. Woodforde, of Adelaide. After
+crossing the range, we found the bean-tree in blossom; it was
+magnificent. I have obtained a specimen of it; also some beans, a number
+of which were of a cream colour; we have roasted a few of them, and find
+that they make very good coffee. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 5th April, The Woodforde, Reynolds Range. Started at 7.30 a.m.
+Camped at 4.30 p.m. on the Hanson, which is now a running stream. About
+five miles back we passed a freshly-built native worley. I observed a
+peculiarity in it which I never noticed in any before--namely, that it
+was constructed with greater care than usual. It was thatched with grass
+down to the ground. Inside the worley there was a quantity of grass laid
+regularly for a bed, on which some one had been lying. Round about the
+front was collected a large quantity of firewood, as much as would have
+done for us for a night. Latitude, 22 degrees 5 minutes 30 seconds,
+bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 25 degrees. Wind, south-south-west.
+
+Saturday, 6th April, The Hanson. Started at 8 a.m., on a course of 46
+degrees 30 minutes, to the springs in the Hanson; this course led me
+through about four miles of very thick mulga. After crossing the central
+line we arrived on the creek and camped, below the springs, at 1.30 p.m.
+Bearing to Central Mount Stuart, 251 degrees 20 minutes. Wind variable.
+
+Sunday, 7th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Day hot. Wind
+variable, with a few clouds.
+
+Monday, 8th April, The Hanson, East-north-east of Centre. Five of the
+horses missing this morning. Started at 9.45, course 45 degrees; camped
+on the Stirling at 3.50 p.m. Through all the day's journey the country
+abounded in grass and water. Wind from south.
+
+Tuesday, 9th April, The Stirling, Forster Range. Started at 7.30 a.m., to
+cross Forster range on the same course. At 10.50 a.m. camped on north
+side of it, on a large gum creek with water. I have named this the
+Taylor, after John Taylor, Esquire, of the firm of Messrs. Elder,
+Stirling, & Co., of Adelaide. This is a most beautiful place, a plain
+four miles broad between two granite ranges, completely covered with
+grass, and a gum creek winding through the centre. I made a short journey
+to-day in consequence of having some of the horses lame, and some weak
+through the effects of the green grass, and to-morrow's journey will be a
+long one. Had I gone on to-day, they would in all probability be without
+water, and would require to be tied up during the night. I shall now be
+able to get through in one day, and keep them in good condition for the
+unexplored country, which I expect to commence next Monday.
+
+Wednesday, 10th April, The Taylor. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a course of 11
+degrees 30 minutes for Mount Morphett; at 12.30 ascended the summit. On
+the north side we had some difficulty in getting the horses down;
+however, we managed without accident. Ran a creek down and found some
+water; gave the horses a drink; still followed it until it was lost in a
+grassy plain. Proceeded on to the next hills, passed through a gap, and
+made for a creek on the north side, in which we found water, and camped
+at 4 p.m.
+
+Thursday, 11th April, North Side Mount Morphett, Crawford Range. Started
+at 7.45 a.m. on a course of 10 degrees. The first four miles was over a
+beautiful grassy plain, with mulga wood, not very thick; it then became
+more sandy, and covered with gum, cork-trees, and other scrubs, which
+continued within a mile of where we camped, in a small, but beautiful
+grassed plain; no water. Latitude 20 degrees 38 minutes 33 seconds. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Friday, 12th April, Grassy Plain. Started at 6.15 a.m., same course. At 1
+p.m. arrived at the Bonney; it is now running--green feed abundant. As
+some of the horses are still very lame, I will rest them to-morrow and
+Sunday, and start into the unexplored country on Monday morning. Wind
+from south-east; a few clouds from north-east.
+
+Saturday, 13th April, The Bonney. Sent Thring down the creek to see what
+its course is, and if the country gets more open; the men mending
+saddle-bags, cleaning and repairing saddles, shoeing horses, etc. While I
+and Woodforde were endeavouring to get a shot at some ducks on the long
+water holes, a fish, which he describes as being about two feet long,
+with dark spots on either side, came to the surface; he fired at it, but
+was unsuccessful in killing it. A little before sundown Thring returned;
+he gave a very bad account of the creek; it was a dry deep channel. Wind,
+variable; cloudy.
+
+Sunday, 14th April, The Bonney. Wind from every quarter, with clouds; a
+few drops of rain fell about the middle of the day; after sundown much
+lightning in the south-west.
+
+Monday, 15th April, The Bonney. Cloudy; wind still variable. Mount
+Fisher, bearing 120 degrees. Started at 7.15 a.m., bearing 290 degrees;
+at 11.40 changed to 264 degrees, to some rising ground; at 12.45 p.m.,
+after crossing stony hills, we crossed a gum creek on the west side, with
+long reaches of water in it running north-west, which I supposed to be
+the Bonney; but as there appeared to be more and larger gum-trees farther
+on, I continued, to see if there were not another channel. Proceeded
+three miles over low limestone rises, with small flats between, on which
+was growing spinifex, and the gum-trees which I had seen--exactly the
+same description of country from which I was forced to return through
+want of water on my former journey from Mount Denison to north-west. I
+therefore returned to the creek, which I find to be the Bonney, now much
+smaller, but containing plenty of water--followed it down to
+north-north-west for about one mile, and then camped. The water is in
+long reaches, which I think are permanent.
+
+Tuesday, 16th April, The Bonney. Still cloudy. Started at 8 a.m. on a
+bearing of 380 degrees. At 11.15 changed to 40 degrees, with the
+intention of cutting the McLaren. Camped at 3.40 p.m. Three miles from
+our start the creek spreads itself over a large grassy plain, thickly
+studded with gum-trees, covered with long grass, and a great number of
+white ants' nests of all sizes and shapes, putting one in mind of walking
+through a large cemetery. In many places it was very boggy. We followed
+it for ten miles, but it still continued the same; I could not see more
+than one hundred yards before me, the gum-trees, and sometimes a low
+scrub, being so thick. Not seeing anything of the McLaren coming into the
+plain, I changed my course to cut it and run it down, as I think that it
+will form a large creek where they join. In three miles we got out of the
+plain upon a red sandy soil, with spinifex, and scrubs of all kinds, in
+some places very thick, and difficult to get the horses through. When we
+were in the gum plain the atmosphere was so close and heavy, and the
+ground so soft, that the sweat was running in streams from the horses;
+and when we halted for a few minutes they were puffing and blowing as
+though they had just come in from running a race. I continued the second
+course for fourteen miles, but saw nothing of the McLaren; it must have
+joined the plain before I left it. Thus ends the Bonney and the McLaren.
+We passed over several quartz and ironstone ranges of low hills crossing
+our course, and camped under a high one, without water. Wind south-east.
+Cloudy.
+
+Wednesday, 17th April,* (* The Journal of this Expedition, as published
+by the Royal Geographical Society, commences here.) Quartz Hill, West
+Mount Blyth. Started at 7.25 a.m. on a bearing of 70 degrees. We again
+passed quartz hills running as yesterday; the spinifex still continuing,
+with a little grass, until we came within a mile of the hills in the
+Murchison range; finding some water, I camped, and gave the horses the
+rest of the day to recruit. Last night after sundown, and during the
+night, we had a few slight showers of rain, and a great deal of thunder
+and lightning, mostly from south-west. About 11 to-day the clouds all
+cleared away. About a mile before camping, we observed the ground covered
+with numerous native tracks; also that a number of the gum-trees were
+stripped of their bark all round.
+
+Thursday, 18th April, West Mount Blyth. Started at 7.40 a.m., same
+bearing, across the Murchison range, in which we found great difficulty.
+On the north-east side of Mount Blyth we found a large gum creek of
+permanent water, and camped. I have named this Ann Creek. I then rode to
+the highest point of the range, taking Thring with me, to see if there is
+any rising ground to north-west by which I may cross the gum plain. I
+could see no rise, nothing but a line of dark-green wood on the horizon.
+We had great difficulty in getting to the top, the rocks being so
+precipitous. In coming down the eastern side we were gratified by the
+sight of a beautiful waterfall, upwards of one hundred feet high, over
+columns of basaltic rock, its form, two sides of a triangle, the water
+coming over the angle. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 19th April, Ann Creek. Started at 7.45 a.m., on a course of 324
+degrees, towards Mount Samuel. After sundown arrived at Goodiar Creek;
+one of the horses done up; had to leave him a little distance back; he is
+unwell. On leaving the Murchison range we crossed a number of quartz
+reefs and hills running east and south-west. Wind, south-south-east.
+
+Saturday, 20th April, Goodiar Creek. Three horses missing this morning,
+in consequence of the scarcity of feed. The horse left behind last night
+has been brought in; he looks very bad indeed. About 11 a.m. the other
+horses were found, brought in, and saddled, and we proceeded on a
+north-north-west course for Bishop Creek, but found the sick horse too
+ill to proceed further than Tennant Creek, where we camped, there being
+plenty of water and feed. Two natives were seen by Masters this morning
+when in search of the horses--he could not get them to come near him.
+Wind, south-west.
+
+Sunday, 21st April, Tennant Creek. Wind from south-west; a few clouds
+from east.
+
+Monday, 22nd April, Tennant Creek. Started at 7.30 a.m., course 21
+degrees, for Bishop Creek, and at twelve miles made it. I find that two
+of the horses are so weak that they are unable to go any further without
+giving in, I have therefore camped, giving them the remainder of the day
+to recruit. Native fires are smoking all around us, but at some distance
+off. Wind, east.
+
+Tuesday, 23rd April, Bishop Creek. It is late before we can get a start
+to-day, in consequence of one of the horses concealing himself in the
+creek. He is an unkind brute, we have much trouble with him in that
+respect; he is constantly hiding himself somewhere or other. Started at
+9.30 a.m., on a course of 17 degrees, to cross Short range. Found plenty
+of water in Phillips Creek; the grass on its banks, and on the plains
+where it empties itself, is splendid, two feet and a half long, fit for
+the scythe to go into, and an abundant crop of hay could be obtained. We
+then crossed the range a little north of where I passed before, and found
+some slight difficulty. After descending, we struck a small creek which
+supplies Kekwick Ponds, and is a tributary to Hayward Creek; found plenty
+of water and camped at 3 p.m. Feed abundant. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 24th April, Hayward Creek. Started at 7.40 a.m.; course 17
+degrees. At 9.30 changed to 14 degrees 30 minutes west of north, and at
+12.30 arrived at Attack Creek; camped at the same place that I did on my
+former journey. Tracks of natives about, but we have seen none of them. I
+kept about a mile to the west of my former track, and found the country
+much more open. The banks of both creeks for two or three miles are
+splendidly covered with grass, in some places over the horses' heads.
+Four of the horses are ill, and looking very bad indeed. Wind,
+south-west.
+
+Thursday, 25th April, Attack Creek. Started at 7.50 a.m., on a course of
+294 degrees, to the top of the range, which I have named Whittington
+Range, after William S. Whittington, Esquire, of Adelaide. At six miles
+reached the top. At 9.50 changed to north-west, and at 11.30 struck a
+large gum creek running east, with large water holes in it. At about two
+hundred yards crossed it again, running to the west, and shortly
+afterwards crossed it again, running to the east. I have called it
+Morphett Creek, after the Honourable John Morphett, Chief Secretary. We
+then ascended another portion of the range, and continued along a spur on
+our course. This range presents quite a new feature, in having gums
+growing on the top and all round it; it is composed of masses of
+ironstone, granite, sand, and limestone, and in some places white marble.
+Thinking that the creek we had passed might break through a low part of
+the range, which I could see to the north-west, at ten miles I changed to
+west, and crossed to the other range, but found the dip of the country to
+the south. We could find no water; traced the creek to the south-east for
+two miles, found some water and camped. The range is very rough and
+stony, covered with spinifex; but the creeks are beautifully grassed.
+Native smoke to east. This is one of the sources of Morphett Creek, and
+flows to the east; it is as large, if not larger, than Attack Creek, and,
+in all probability, contains water holes quite as fine to the eastward.
+Latitude, 18 degrees 50 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+Friday, 26th April, Morphett Creek. At 8 a.m. started on a course of 300
+degrees to cross the north-west part of the range. Camped upon a plain of
+the same description as John Plain, that I met with on my former journey
+to the north-east of Bishop Creek, a large open plain covered with grass,
+and with only a few bushes on it. The journey to-day has been very rough
+and stony. Not a drop of water have we passed to-day, nor is there the
+appearance of any on before us. I shall be compelled to fall back
+to-morrow to the water of last night. Four of the horses, I am afraid,
+will not be able to get there. I must try more to the north, and
+endeavour to get quit of the plains, and get amongst the creeks. There is
+no hope of success on this course. Latitude, 18 degrees 38 minutes. Wind,
+east.
+
+Saturday, 27th April, Grassy Plains. Started at 7.10 a.m., course 110
+degrees, to the other side of the plain. At three miles came upon a small
+creek running towards the north; I followed it down to the north. At
+three miles came upon a fine large creek, coming from the south-east,
+with plenty of water. Returned to the party, took them down to the large
+creek on north course, and at three miles camped. Two of the horses are
+nearly done up. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 35 minutes 20
+seconds.
+
+Sunday, 28th April, Tomkinson Creek. Sent Thring down to examine and see
+how the creek runs. I have named it after S. Tomkinson, Esquire, Manager
+of the Bank of Australasia, at Adelaide. We have found many new plants
+and flowers, also some trees, one of which grows to a considerable size,
+the largest being about a foot in diameter. The fruit is about the size
+and colour, and has the appearance of plums; the bark is of a grey
+colour; the foliage oval, and dark-green. Another is more of a bush, and
+has a very peculiar appearance; the seed vessel is about the size of an
+orange, but more pointed. When ripe it opens into four divisions, which
+look exactly like honeycomb inside, and in which the seeds are
+contained; they are about the size of a nut, the outside being very
+hard. The natives roast and eat them. The leaves resemble the mulberry,
+and are of a downy light-green. We have obtained a few of the seeds of
+it. The bean-tree does not seem to grow up here. Mr. Kekwick, in looking
+for plants this morning, discovered one which very much resembles wheat
+in straw (which is very tough), ear, and seed. It grows two feet high.
+The seed is small, but very much like wheat both in shape and colour. At
+about 3 p.m. Thring returned, having run the creek out into a large
+grassy plain. The course of this creek is west-north-west for about nine
+miles; it then turns to west, and empties itself into the plain. There
+is plenty of water about, but where it empties itself it becomes quite
+dry. The native companion, the emu, and the sacred ibis are on this
+creek. The country is splendidly grassed. We have got to the north side
+of the Whittington range. I shall have to leave my two done-up horses
+here, and will get them when I return. The hills and rocks are of the
+same description as the first part of the range. Wind, south. Sun hot,
+but the nights and mornings are very cold.
+
+Monday, 29th April, Tomkinson Creek. Had a late start this morning in
+consequence of my having to take a lunar observation. Started at 10.30
+a.m. At 2.10 p.m. reached the top of a high hill; from this we could see
+a gum creek. Started at 2.30 to examine it; found water, and camped at 4.
+I have named the hill Mount Primrose, after John Primrose, Esquire, of
+North Adelaide. This water will last us six or eight weeks. The country
+passed to-day has been mostly stony rises of the same description as the
+other parts of the range. The valleys have a light sandy soil, nearly all
+with spinifex and scrub. The view from the top of Mount Primrose is not
+extensive, except to the west and south-west, which appears to be thick
+wood or scrub. Near the top we met with the Eucalyptus Dumosa. Wind,
+south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 25 minutes.
+
+Tuesday, 30th April, Carruthers Creek. The creek in which we are now
+camped I have named Carruthers Creek, after John Carruthers, Esquire, of
+North Adelaide. Started at 8.50 a.m. At 1.50 p.m. found a creek running
+from the range, with a splendid hole of permanent water situated under a
+cliff, where the creek leaves the range; it is very deep, with a rocky
+bottom. From the top of the range the country seems to be very thick,
+which I am afraid is scrub; no high hills visible. To the north of this
+the range appears to cease; I wish it had continued for another sixty
+miles. The country passed to-day has been stony rises coming from the
+range, very rough and rocky indeed. My horses' shoes are nearly all gone;
+I am obliged to let some go without--they have felt the last four rough
+days very much. Spinifex, scrub, and stunted gums all the day, with
+occasionally a few tufts of grass; this is very poor country indeed.
+Smoke of native fires still in south-east. The hills of the same
+formation as those we first came upon in entering the ranges from Attack
+Creek. I have named this creek Hunter Creek, after Mr. Hunter, of Messrs.
+Hunter, Stevenson, and Co., of Adelaide. Camped. The horses seem very
+tired. Wind, east. Latitude, 18 degrees 17 minutes.
+
+Wednesday, 1st May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8 a.m., course, 305 degrees.
+At 8.45 crossed the Hunter going south-west; it came round again and
+continued crossing our course thirteen times in nine miles, after which
+it was lost in a large grassy and gum plain. At 5.15 camped. The plain in
+which the creek loses itself bears south-west; the banks are beautifully
+grassed, but about a mile on either side the soil is sandy, with spinifex
+and scrub, which continued for nine miles; we then entered upon a scrub
+and grassy plain. Here I noticed a new and very beautiful tree--in some
+instances a foot in diameter--with drooping branches. Its bark was grey
+and rough, and it had a small dark-green leaf, shaped like a butterfly's
+wing. Not finding a creek, nor the least indication of a watercourse, and
+the scrub becoming very thick, I changed to north, to see if I could find
+any water; but at three miles we lost the gums, the new tree taking their
+place, and becoming very thick scrub with plenty of grass, but no signs
+of a watercourse. I again changed to east in the hope of cutting one in
+that direction. At one mile and a half again came upon small gums; and at
+three miles, seeing neither creek nor any hope of getting water, camped.
+The horses very tired. Wind light from west-north-west. Latitude, 18
+degrees 3 minutes 19 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 2nd May, Large Scrubby and Grassy Plain. Started at 10 a.m. in
+consequence of some of the horses having strayed a long way to the east
+during the night; course, 143 degrees 30 minutes, back to Hunter Creek. I
+have taken a different course to see if there is any creek that supplies
+this plain with water. For about nine miles we passed over a splendidly
+grassed plain, with gum-trees, the new tree, and a number of all sorts of
+bushes. One part for about three miles is subject to inundation, and the
+Eucalyptus Dumosa grows thickly on it. We then passed over about two
+miles of spinifex and grass, and again entered the grassy plain, which
+continued to Hunter Creek. During the whole day we have not seen the
+shadow of a creek or watercourse. If there had been any sign of a
+watercourse, or if I could have seen any rising ground near our course, I
+would have gone on another day. I sent Wall to the top of the highest
+tree to see if there was anything within view; he could see nothing but
+the same description of plain. If my horses can travel to-morrow, I will
+try a course to the north, and run down the creek, to see if there is one
+that will lead me through this plain. If I could get to some rising
+ground, I think I should be all right; but there is none visible except
+the end of the range, which is lost sight of to the north-east. Wind
+again south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 18 degrees 13 minutes 40
+seconds.
+
+Friday, 3rd May, Hunter Creek. Started at 8.40 a.m.; course, north. At
+11.15 (nine miles), came upon a creek; bed dry and sandy; searched for
+water, and, at three quarters of a mile to east, found a nice hole;
+watered the horses and proceeded on the same course--starting at 12. At
+3.20 p.m. changed to 20 degrees north of east; the first ten miles were
+over a plain of gums covered with grass two feet long; we had then six
+miles of spinifex, and a thick scrub of dwarf lancewood, as tough as
+whalebone. After that we entered upon another gum plain, also splendidly
+grassed, which continued for four miles, when the gums suddenly ceased,
+and it became a large open plain to north, as far as I could see. Seeing
+no appearance of water, I changed my course to 30 degrees north of east,
+to some high gums; and, at one mile, not finding any, I camped without
+it. This seems now to be a change of country; there is no telling when or
+where I may get the next water on this course, so that I shall be
+compelled to go towards the range to-morrow to get some, and have a long
+day's journey to the new country. The wind has been from east all day.
+Latitude, 17 degrees 56 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 4th May, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.15 a.m., course east, to
+find water. At 3.20 p.m. came upon a little creek and found a small
+quantity of water, which we gave to the horses. Started again at 9 p.m.,
+course south-east, following the creek to find more; at a mile and a half
+found water which will do for us until Monday morning. I proceeded to the
+top of the range to obtain a view of the country round, but was
+disappointed in its height; from the plain it appeared higher than it
+really is. This range I have named Ashburton Range, after Lord Ashburton,
+President of the Royal Geographical Society. The point upon which I am at
+present is about three miles east of our camp; the view from south to
+north-west is over a wooded plain; from north-west to north is a large
+open plain with scarcely a tree upon it. On leaving our last night's
+camp, we passed over three miles of the plain, which is subject to
+inundation. There are numerous nasty holes in it, into which the horses
+were constantly stumbling. It is covered with splendid grass, and is as
+fine a country as I have ever crossed. These plains I have named Sturt
+Plains, after the venerable father of Australian exploration and my
+respected commander of the expedition in 1845. Ashburton range is
+composed of sandstone and ironstone, granite, and a little quartz; it is
+very rough and broken. Native tracks about here. Wind, south-east. This
+creek I have named Watson Creek, after Mr. Watson, formerly of Clare.
+
+Sunday, 5th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Sent Thring to the north
+along the range to see if there is permanent water; at eight miles he
+returned, having found plenty. One large hole is about a mile from here;
+in another creek it is apparently permanent, having a rocky bed. A flight
+of pelicans over head to-day; they seem to have come from the north-west,
+which course I will try to-morrow. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17 degrees
+58 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+Monday, 6th May, Watson Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 8.20 a.m.,
+course 300 degrees, to cross Sturt Plain. At eleven miles arrived at the
+hill which I saw from Ashburton range. It turned out to be the banks of
+what was once a fresh-water lake; the water-wash is quite distinct. It
+had small iron and limestone gravel, with sand and a great number of
+shells worn by the sun and atmosphere to the thinness of paper, plainly
+indicating that it is many years since the water had left them. Judging
+from the water-marks, the lake must have been about twelve feet deep in
+the plain. The eucalyptus is growing here. We then proceeded over another
+open part of it, for about two miles, when the dwarf eucalypti again
+commenced, and continued until we camped at twenty-one miles; the horses
+quite worn out. This has been the hardest and most fatiguing day's work
+we have had since starting from Chambers Creek; for, from the time we
+left in the morning until we camped, we have had nothing but a succession
+of rotten ground, with large deep holes and cracks in it, caused at a
+former period by water, into which the poor horses have been constantly
+falling the whole day, running the risk of breaking their legs and our
+necks, the grass being so long and thick that they could not possibly see
+them before they were into them. I had a very severe fall into one of
+these holes; my horse came right over and rolled nearly on top of me. I
+was fortunate enough to escape with little injury. Some of the shells
+resemble the cockle shell, but are much longer, many of them being three
+or four inches long; the others are of the shape of periwinkles, but six
+times as large. Both sorts are scattered over the plain, which is
+completely matted with grass. The soil is a dark rich alluvial, and
+judging from the cracks and holes, some of which are of considerable
+depth, they are splendid plains, but not a drop of surface water could we
+see upon them, nor a single bird to indicate that there is any. It was my
+intention at starting to have gone on thirty miles, but I find it quite
+impossible for the horses to do more; it would be madness to take them
+another day over such a country, when from the highest tree we can see no
+change. If I were to go another day and be without water, I should never
+be able to get one of the horses back, and in all probability should lose
+the lives of the whole party. If I could see the least chance of finding
+water, or a termination of the plain, I would proceed and risk
+everything. I see there is no hope of my reaching the river by this
+course. I believe this gum plain to be a continuation of the one I met
+with beyond the Centre, and that it may continue to the banks of the
+Victoria. The features of the country are nearly the same. The absence of
+all birds has a bad appearance. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude,
+17 degrees 49 minutes.
+
+Tuesday, 7th May, Sturt Plains. Before sunrise this morning I sent Wall
+up a tree to see if any hills or rising grounds would be visible by
+refraction. To the west, with a powerful telescope he can just see the
+top of rising ground. As the grass is now quite dry, the horses feel the
+want of water very much; many of them are looking wretched, and I hardly
+think will be able to reach it. However reluctant, I must go back for the
+safety of the party. At 3 p.m. arrived at the creek which Thring found
+about one mile to the north of my former camp, with the loss of only one
+horse; we had to leave him a short distance behind, he would not move a
+step further, although during a great part of the journey he had been
+carrying little or nothing. This water will last two months at least;
+feed good. It is inside the first ironstone rise in Ashburton range, in a
+gum creek which empties itself into the plains. This creek I have named
+Hawker Creek, after James Hawker, Esquire, of her Majesty's Customs at
+Port Adelaide. The day has been very hot. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 17
+degrees 58 minutes.
+
+Wednesday, 8th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. I have sent Masters
+back to bring up the horse we left behind. Sturt Plains have been at one
+time the bed of a large fresh-water lake; our journey of the 6th instant
+was over the middle of it, and we were not at the end of it when I was
+forced to return; the same rotten ground and shells continued, although
+we had got amongst the eucalypti. I shall give the horses a rest to-day,
+and to-morrow will take the best of them (those that I had out on my
+former journey), and endeavour to cross the plain to the rising ground
+seen yesterday morning; I shall take Thring and Woodforde, with seven
+horses and one week's provisions. I may be fortunate enough to find some
+water, but from the appearance of the country I have little hope. I
+shall, however, leave nothing untried to accomplish the object of the
+expedition. In the morning the horse we left behind could not be found;
+sent Masters and Sullivan in search of him; in the afternoon they
+returned with him looking miserable. He had wandered away beyond the
+other camp.
+
+Thursday, 9th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 7 a.m., with
+Thring and Woodforde, and seven horses, following our tracks through the
+rotten ground to the first eucalypti, for about twelve miles, as it made
+it lighter for the horses, the tracks being beaten to that place. Changed
+our course to 282 degrees, still journeying over Sturt Plains; at
+twenty-seven miles arrived at the end of the portion of them that had
+been subject to inundation, but there are still too many holes to be
+pleasant. I certainly never did see a more splendid country for grass; in
+many places for miles it is above the horses' knees. We entered upon red
+sandy soil, with spinifex and grass, from which we changed our bearing.
+The country became thickly studded with eucalypti, in one or two places
+rather open, but generally thick. After the twenty-seven miles we again
+met with the new small-leafed tree, the broad-leafed mallee, the
+eucalypti, and many other scrubs. At sundown we camped; distance,
+thirty-three miles, but not a drop of water have we seen the whole day,
+or the least indication of its proximity. I hope to-morrow we may be more
+fortunate, and find some. Wind, south.
+
+Friday, 10th May, Sturt Plains. This morning there are a few birds about.
+Started at 8.15 a.m., same course; at 10.30 arrived on first top of
+rising ground seen from the camp of 7th instant, which turns out to be
+red sand hills covered with thick scrub. Changed our course to
+north-west, and at 11.15 arrived at the highest point; the view is very
+discouraging--nothing to be seen all round but sand hills of the same
+description, their course north-north-east, and south to west. No high
+hills or range to be seen through the telescope. We can see a long
+distance, apparently all sand hills with scrub and stunted gums on them.
+The first ridge is about two hundred feet above Sturt Plains, but further
+to the west they are much lower, and become seemingly red sandy
+undulating table land; but further to the west they are much lower. There
+is no hope of reaching the Victoria on this course. I would have gone on
+further to-day had I seen the least chance of obtaining water to-night;
+but during the greater part of yesterday and to-day we have met with no
+birds that frequent country where water is. Both yesterday and to-day
+have been excessively hot, and the country very heavy. From this point I
+can see twenty-five miles without anything like a change. To go on now
+with such a prospect, and such heavy country before me, would only be
+sacrificing our horses and our own lives without a hope of success--the
+horses having already come forty-five miles without a drop of water, and
+over as heavy a country as was ever travelled on. I have therefore, with
+reluctance, made up my mind to return to the camp and try it again
+further north, where I may have a chance of rounding the sand hills; the
+dip of them from here seems to be south-south-west. Turned back, and at
+eighteen miles camped on Sturt Plains, where there is green grass for the
+horses. Wind, south.
+
+Saturday, 11th May, Sturt Plains. At dawn of day started for the camp;
+arrived at 2 p.m. It was fortunate I did not go on further, for some of
+the horses were scarcely able to reach it; a few more hours and I should
+have lost half of them. The day has been so hot that it has nearly
+knocked them all up. Found the rest of the party all right at the camp.
+We had a job to keep the horses from injuring themselves by drinking too
+much water. I gave them a little three separate times, tied them up for
+twenty minutes, and then gave them a good drink, and drove them off to
+feed. They took a few mouthfuls of grass, and were back again almost
+immediately, and continued to do so nearly all the afternoon. They drank
+an immense quantity. Wind, south.
+
+Sunday, 12th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. My old horses that were
+out with me before look very well this morning, but the others, whose
+first trip of privation this has been, are looking very bad indeed. They
+could not have gone another night without water; it has pulled them down
+terribly. Yesterday, while Masters was looking for the horses, he saw
+what appeared to him to be a piece of wood stuck upon a tree, about two
+feet and a half long, sharp at both ends, broad at the bottom, and shaped
+like a canoe. Having pulled it down, he found it to be hollow. On the top
+of it were placed a number of pieces of bark, and the whole bound firmly
+round with grass cord. He undid it, and found the skull and bones of a
+child within. Mr. Kekwick brought it to me this morning for my
+inspection. It certainly is the finest piece of workmanship I have ever
+seen executed by natives. It is about twelve inches deep and ten wide,
+tapering off at the ends. Small lines are cut along both sides of it. It
+has been cut out of a solid piece of wood, with some sharp instrument. It
+is exactly the model of a canoe. I told him to do it up again, and
+replace it as it was found. If it is here when I return, I will endeavour
+to take it to Adelaide with me. Wind, variable. A few clouds about.
+
+Monday, 13th May, Hawker Creek, Ashburton Range. Started at 8 a.m.,
+course 360 degrees. At five miles crossed the large gum-tree creek, with
+water, that Thring found; proceeded along the side of Sturt Plains. At
+ten miles ascended the north point of Ashburton range; descended, and the
+country became red sand with spinifex, gum-tree, the new tree, and other
+shrubs very thick; at fifteen miles, gained the top of another stony
+rise; followed three creeks down in search of water; found a little, but
+not sufficient for us; followed it still further down, leading us to the
+south for about six miles, but could find no more. I thought it best to
+return for water to the large creek, which I have named Ferguson Creek,
+after Peter Ferguson, Esquire, of Gawler Town. From the top of the range
+the view is limited. To the north and north-east are stony rises, at
+about nine miles distant; from north to west are Sturt Plains, in some
+places wooded; to the north they are open for a very long distance; the
+country in the hills is bad, but in the plains is beautiful. I am afraid,
+from the view I have of the country to the north, that I shall again meet
+with the same description of sand hills that I came upon on my last
+western course. Wind east-south-east, blowing strong. Latitude, 17
+degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 14th May, Ferguson Creek. Started at 8.30 a.m., on a north
+course, to the place I turned back from yesterday; arrived at noon;
+changed course to 345 degrees. Started again at 12.20. At 1 p.m. crossed
+a gum creek that has the appearance of water. At 1.40 changed course to
+260 degrees, and came upon two large water holes, apparently very deep,
+situated in the rocks--they are seemingly permanent. Camped. I named this
+creek Lawson Creek, after Dr. Lawson, J.P., of Port Lincoln. A number of
+natives have been camped about them. We found another canoe, of the same
+description as the one in which the bones of the child were found--it is
+broken and burned, and seems to have been used as a vessel for holding
+water. Wind south-east, blowing strong. Mornings and evenings very cold.
+Latitude, 17 degrees 43 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 15th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8.10 a.m.; went a mile west
+to clear the stones; changed course to 340 degrees. At 2.45 p.m. changed
+again to 45 degrees. Camped at 4.15. The first twelve miles is poor
+country, being on the top of stony rises, with eucalypti, grass, and
+scrubs. After descending from the rises, we crossed a wooded plain,
+subject to inundation; no water. The trees are very thick indeed--they
+are the eucalyptus, the Eucalyptus Dumosa, the small-leaved tree, another
+small-leaved tree much resembling the hawthorn, spreading out into many
+branches from the root; it rises to upwards of twenty feet in height. We
+have also seen three other new shrubs, but there were no seeds on them.
+After crossing the plain we got upon red sandy rises, very thick with
+scrub and trees of the same description. We continued on this course
+until 2.45 p.m.; then, as there is an open plain in sight, with rising
+ground upon it to north-east, and as this scrubby ridge seems to
+continue, without the least appearance of water, I have changed to
+north-east. Crossed the plain, which is alluvial soil, covered with
+grass, but very dry. At 4.15 camped on north-east side, without water. I
+would have gone on to the rise, but I feel so ill that I am unable to sit
+any longer in the saddle. I have been suffering for the last three days
+from a severe pain in the chest. Wind, east. Latitude, 17 degrees 16
+minutes 20 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 16th May, Sturt Plains. Sent Thring to see if there is a creek
+or a sign of water under the rise. At 8.20 a.m. he returned, having found
+no water. It is a low sandy rise, covered with a dense scrub. Started at
+8.20 a.m.; course, east. At three miles I was forced to return; the scrub
+is so dense that it is impossible to get through. Came back two miles;
+changed to 20 degrees west of south to get out of it. At two miles gained
+the plain, then changed to the east of south at 10.45. At 2 p.m. there is
+no hope of a creek or water. Changed to south-west. At two miles and a
+half struck our tracks and proceeded to Lawson Creek. We found the open
+parts of the plain black alluvial soil so rotten and cracked, that the
+horses were sinking over their knees; this continued for six miles. It is
+covered with long grass and polygonum; also a few eucalypti scattered
+over it. The scrub we were compelled to return from was the thickest I
+have ever had to contend with. The horses would not face it. They turned
+about in every direction, and we were in danger of losing them. In two or
+three yards they were quite out of sight. In the short distance we
+penetrated it has torn our hands, faces, clothes, and, what is of more
+consequence, our saddle-bags, all to pieces. It consists of scrub of
+every kind, which is as thick as a hedge. Had we gone further into it we
+should have lost everything off the horses. No signs of water. From south
+to west, north and north-east nothing visible but Sturt Plains, with a
+few sand rises having scrub on them, which terminate the spurs of the
+stony rises. They are a complete barrier between me and the Victoria. I
+should think that water could be easily obtained at a moderate depth in
+many places on the plains. If I had plenty of provisions I would try to
+make it by that way. The only course that I can now try is to the
+north-east or east, to round the dense scrub and plains. At sundown
+arrived at Lawson Creek. The horses, owing to the dryness of the grass,
+drank a great quantity of water; they are falling off very much. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Friday, 17th May, Sturt Plains. I must remain here to-day to mend
+saddle-bags, etc. I have sent Thring to north-east to see if the stony
+rises continue in that direction. He has returned and gives a very poor
+account of the country. He crossed them in about six miles, and again
+came upon the plain that we were on yesterday, extending from north-east
+to south. Nothing but plains. To the north is the dense scrub, thus
+forming a complete stop to further progress. From here I fear it is a
+hopeless case either to reach Victoria or the Gulf. The plains and forest
+are as great a barrier as if there had been an inland sea or a wall built
+round. I shall rest the horses till Monday, and will then try a course to
+the north-west, and another to north-east. I have not the least hope of
+succeeding without wells, and I have not sufficient provisions to enable
+me to remain and dig them. It is a great disappointment to be so near,
+and yet through want of water to be unable to attain the desired end.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 18th May, Lawson Creek. Resting horses, etc. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 19th May, Lawson Creek. Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 20th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 7.25 a.m., course 45 degrees,
+with Thring, Woodforde, and seven horses. The first four miles was over
+the stony rises; the next three, sandy table-land, with spinifex,
+eucalyptus, and scrub. Crossed part of Sturt Plains, open and covered
+with grass. Five miles of it were very heavy travelling-ground, very
+rotten, and full of holes and cracks. At about thirty miles camped on the
+plains. We have seen no birds, nor any living thing, except kites and
+numerous grasshoppers, which are in myriads on the plains. From this
+place to the east, and as far as south-south-west, there is no rising
+ground within range of vision--nothing but an immense open grassy plain.
+The absence of birds proclaims it to be destitute of water. We have not
+seen a drop, not a creek, nor a watercourse during the whole day's
+journey. To-morrow I shall again try to get through the scrub. On leaving
+the camp this morning, I instructed Kekwick to move the party about three
+miles down the creek to another water hole, the feed not being good.
+Wind, east.
+
+Tuesday, 21st May, Sturt Plains, East. Started at 7.10 a.m. Passed
+through a very thick scrub seven miles in extent. We again entered on
+another portion of the open plains at ten miles from our last night's
+camp. Nothing to be seen on the horizon all round but plains. Changed to
+300 degrees, to where I saw some pigeons fly. At two miles came across
+their feeding-ground; skirted the scrub until we cut our tracks. No
+appearance of water. This is again a continuation of the open portion of
+Sturt Plains; they appear to be of immense extent, with occasional strips
+of dense forest and scrub. We had seven miles of it this morning as thick
+as ever I went through; it has scratched and torn us all to pieces. At my
+furthest on the open plain. I saw that it was hopeless to proceed, for
+from the west to north, and round to south-south-west, there is nothing
+to be seen but immense open plains covered with grass, subject to
+inundation, having an occasional low bush upon them. I think with the aid
+of the telescope I must have seen at least sixty miles; there is not the
+least appearance of rising ground, watercourse, or smoke of natives in
+any direction. The sun is extremely hot on the plain. Having no hope of
+finding water this morning, I left Woodforde with the pack and spare
+horses where we camped last night, as the heat and rough journey of
+yesterday have tired them a great deal; so much so, that I fear some of
+them will not be able to get back to water. Returned to where I had left
+him, and followed our tracks back to the open plain. After sundown camped
+among some scrub. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 22nd May, Sturt Plains. After sunset we saw a number of
+turkeys flying towards the stony rises where our main camp is; they
+appear to come from the north-west. Upwards of fifty passed over in twos
+and threes; and this morning we observed them going back again. Two of
+the horses which had been short hobbled walked off during the night,
+following our tracks. Saddled and followed, overtaking them in three
+miles and a half, standing under the shade of a tree. Unhobbled and drove
+them on before us. At 12 o'clock arrived at Lawson Creek. Had great
+difficulty in preventing the horses from drinking too much, and, as there
+are other holes down the creek, I gave them a little at a time at each.
+Found that Kekwick had moved with the party. Followed them, and at three
+miles and a half west-south-west arrived at their camp, and allowed the
+horses to drink as much as they chose. Poor brutes! they have had very
+hard work, eighty miles over the heaviest country, under a burning sun,
+without a drop of water. Three of them were those I had on my former
+journeys; I could depend upon them; the rest were the best I could pick
+from the other lot. They have all stood the journey very well, but could
+not have done another day without water. Natives seem to have been about
+this water lately, but we have not seen one since leaving our spitting
+friend on the Hugh. Wind, east.
+
+Thursday, 23rd May, Lawson Creek. Started 7.45 a.m., course 315 degrees,
+with Thring, Woodforde, and seven fresh horses. At fourteen miles came
+across a splendid reach of water, about one hundred and fifty yards wide,
+but how long I do not know, as we could not see the end of it. It is a
+splendid sheet of water, and is certainly the gem of Sturt Plains. I have
+decided at once on returning, and bringing the party up to it, as it must
+be carefully examined, for it may be the source of the Camfield, or some
+river that may lead me through. On approaching it I saw a large flock of
+pelicans, which leads me to think that there may be a lake in its
+vicinity. There are mussels and periwinkles in it, and, judging from the
+shells on the banks, the natives must consume a large quantity. The
+gum-trees round it are not very large. The first ten miles of that part
+of the plain travelled over to-day is full of large deep holes and
+cracks, black alluvial soil covered with grass, with young gum-trees
+thicker as we approached the water. This I have named Newcastle Water,
+after his Grace the Duke of Newcastle, Secretary for the Colonies. Duck,
+native companion, white crane, and sacred ibis abound here. Returned to
+bring the party up to-morrow. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 24th May, Lawson Creek. Started at 8 a.m. for Newcastle Water;
+arrived at noon. Camped. Sent Kekwick to north-east and Thring to west to
+see the length of it; I have had the depth tried. It is about six feet
+deep ten yards from the bank, and in the middle seventeen feet. I should
+say it was permanent. Thring found it still the same at three miles west.
+Kekwick returned after following it for four miles. At two miles there is
+a break in it. At four miles it is more of a creek coming from
+north-east. Gum-trees much larger. Woodforde succeeded in catching four
+fish about ten inches long, something resembling the whiting. I had one
+cooked for tea; the skin was as tough as a piece of leather, but the
+inside was really good, as fine a fish as I have ever eaten. To-morrow I
+shall follow the water to the west; its bed is limestone. Wind,
+south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 17 degrees 36 minutes 40
+seconds.
+
+Saturday, 25th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.50 a.m.
+and followed the water nine miles round. It still continued, but became a
+chain of ponds. As I could see some rising ground north-north-east about
+four miles distant, I camped the party and took Thring with me to see
+what the country was before us. At four miles we found that the first
+part of the rise was stony, but on the top it was sandy table-land,
+covered with thick scrub. The view is obstructed to the east-north-east
+to north by it; but to the north-west and west there is an appearance of
+rising ground, thickly wooded, about twenty miles off. Wind, west.
+Latitude, 17 degrees 30 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 26th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. This morning we were
+visited by seven natives, tall, powerfully-made fellows. At first they
+seemed inclined for mischief, making all manner of gestures and shaking
+their boomerangs, waddies, etc. We made friendly signs to them, inviting
+them to come nearer; they gradually approached, and Kekwick and Lawrence
+got quite close to them; in a short time they appeared to be quite
+friendly. I felt alarmed for the safety of J. Woodforde (who had gone
+down the water in search of ducks, and in the direction from which they
+had come), and endeavoured to make them friends by giving them pieces of
+handkerchiefs, etc. During the time we were talking with them I heard the
+distant report of his gun; at the same time Thring and Masters returned
+from collecting the horses that were missing. I told them to remain until
+the natives were gone, as I wished to keep them as long as possible to
+give Woodforde a chance of coming up before they left us; shortly
+afterwards they went off apparently quite friendly. Sent Thring and Wall
+to round up the horses which were close at hand, and while they were
+doing so the natives again returned, running quite close up to the camp
+and setting fire to the grass. It was now evident they meant mischief. I
+think they must have seen or heard Woodforde, and have lit the grass in
+order to engage our attention from him. I felt very much inclined to fire
+upon them, but desisted, as I feared they would revenge themselves on him
+in their retreat. They did very little injury by their fire, which we
+succeeded in putting out. By signs I ordered them to be off, and after
+much bother they left us, setting fire to the grass as they went along. I
+now ordered Thring and Wall to go with all speed to protect Woodforde. In
+about twenty minutes he came into the camp. After leaving us they had
+attacked him, throwing several boomerangs and waddies at him; he had only
+one barrel of his gun loaded with shot; they all spread out and
+surrounded him, gradually approaching from all sides. One fellow got
+within five yards of him, and was in the act of aiming his boomerang at
+him. Seeing it was useless to withhold any longer, while the black was in
+the act of throwing he gave him the contents of his gun in his face, and
+made for the camp. In a short time Thring and Wall returned at full
+speed; they had passed where he was, and hearing the report of his gun,
+made for the place, overtook the blacks, gave chase and made them drop
+the powder-flask and ducks (which Woodforde had laid down before firing
+when they attacked him); knowing them to be his, they gave up the chase
+to look for him, but seeing nothing of him, and two of the natives
+supporting one apparently wounded, they returned to the camp, where they
+saw him all safe, relating his adventure, his shot-belt still missing. I
+sent Thring and him to look for it, and to bring up the missing horses
+which they had seen. Wind variable. Cloudy.
+
+Monday, 27th May, Newcastle Water, Sturt Plains. Started at 8.10 a.m.,
+course 335 degrees. At 10.20 changed to north; at 1.20 p.m. changed to 90
+degrees; and at one mile found water; gave the horses some, and proceeded
+north-north-east; at 3.40 changed to 90 degrees to some gums: at one mile
+and a half camped. The gums turn out to be thick wood. I went
+north-north-west this morning, with the expectation of meeting with
+water, or rather a chain of ponds; at four miles, I could see nothing of
+them; and, as we were getting into a very thick scrub of lancewood, I
+changed to north; and at ten miles on that course, still seeing nothing
+of them, I changed to east; at one mile came upon them, found water, and
+followed them; their course now, 20 degrees; at one mile found another
+pond; in a short time, lost the bed of them in a thick wooded plain.
+Found a native path running nearly in my course; followed it, thinking it
+would lead me to some other water, but in a few miles it became
+invisible. I continued on the same course for nine miles, and found
+myself on Sturt Plains, with belts of thick wood and scrub; to the north,
+nothing visible but open plains; to north-east, apparently thick wood or
+scrub; to north-west and west, apparently scrubby sand hills. The ponds
+seem to drain this portion of the plains. Changed to east, to what seemed
+to be large gum-trees, thinking there might be a creek; arriving there, I
+found them to be stunted gums on the edge of the plain. There is no hope
+of succeeding in this quarter. Camped without water. Wind, east.
+Latitude, 17 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 28th May, Sturt Plains, North. Fourteen of the horses missing
+this morning before sunrise. From the highest tree nothing is to be seen
+from east to north and north-west but immense open grassy plains, without
+a tree on them; no hope of water. I must go back to the ponds and try
+again to the westward. Did not find the horses until 9.30 a.m., and
+started at 10. I observed very large flocks of pigeons coming in clouds
+from the plains in every direction towards the ponds. Some time
+afterwards we saw them coming back and flying away into the plains as far
+as the eye can reach, apparently to feed. Arrived at the water at 1.30
+p.m. Wind, east-north-east.
+
+Wednesday, 29th May, Chain of Ponds. Started at 7.20 a.m. with Thring,
+Woodforde, and Wall, and nine horses, to follow a native track, which is
+leading to the westward. At 9.20 made the track; its course,
+west-north-west. At twenty-eight miles camped without water. The track
+led us into very thick wood and scrub, and at five miles became
+invisible. I still continued on the same bearing through the scrub. We
+have again met with the mulga--a little different from what we have seen
+before, growing very straight, from thirty to forty feet high, the bark
+stringy, the leaf much larger and thicker. Amongst it is the hedge-tree.
+We had seven miles of it very dense, when we again met with an open
+plain. At three miles entered another dense wood and scrub, like that
+passed through in the morning. To-day's journey has been over plains of
+grass, through forest and scrub, without water. In the last five miles we
+passed through a little spinifex, and the soil is becoming sandy. Wind,
+south.
+
+Thursday, 30th May, Sturt Plains. As I can see no hope of water, I will
+leave Woodforde and Wall with the horses, take Thring with me, and
+proceed ten miles, to see if there will be a change in that distance.
+Went into a terrible thick wood and scrub for eleven miles and a half,
+without the least sign of a change--the scrub, in fact, becoming more
+dense; it is scarcely penetrable. I sent Thring up one of the tallest
+trees. Nothing to be seen but a fearfully dense wood and scrub all round.
+Again I am forced to retreat through want of water. The last five miles
+of the eleven the soil is becoming very sandy, with spinifex and a little
+grass. It is impossible to say in which way the country dips, for, in
+forty-five miles travelled over, we have not seen the least sign of a
+watershed, it is so level. Returned to where I left the others, followed
+our tracks back, and at eleven miles camped. Horses nearly done up with
+heavy travelling and the heat of the sun, which is excessive. It is very
+vexing and dispiriting to be forced back with only a little more than one
+hundred miles between Mr. Gregory's last camp on the Camfield and me. If
+I could have found water near the end of this journey, I think I could
+have forced the rest. It is very galling to be turned back after trying
+so many times. Wind, east.
+
+Friday, 31st May, Sturt Plains. Not having sufficient tethers for all the
+horses, we had to short hobble two, and tie their heads to their hobbles;
+and, in the morning, they were gone. I suppose they must have broken
+their hobbles or fastenings; they will most likely make on to our outward
+tracks. I have sent Thring and Woodforde to follow them up, while Wall
+and I, with the other horses, proceed on our way to the camp. In two
+hours they made the tracks before us, and I then pushed on as hard as I
+could get the horses to go; being very anxious about the safety of the
+party--for, on the first day that I left them, at about seven miles, we
+passed fourteen or fifteen natives going in the direction of their camp;
+I also observed, this morning, that they had been running our tracks both
+backwards and forwards. At three o'clock we arrived, and found all safe;
+they have not been visited by them, although I observed the prints of
+their feet in our tracks, a short distance from the camp. It was as much
+as some of our horses could do to reach the camp. The day has been
+excessively hot; wind from north-north-east, with clouds. Latitude, 17
+degrees 7 minutes.
+
+Saturday, 1st June, Chain of Ponds. I must rest the horses to-day and
+to-morrow, for they look very miserable; our longitude is 133 degrees 40
+minutes 45 seconds. Before leaving the Ponds I shall try once more to the
+westward--starting from a point three miles west of my first camp on
+them. To try from this, for the Gulf of Carpentaria, I believe to be
+hopeless, for the plain seems to be without end and without water. If I
+could see the least sign of a hill, or hope of finding water, I would try
+it; but there is none--if there is a passage it must be to the south of
+this. Wind variable, with clouds.
+
+Sunday, 2nd June, Chain of Ponds. The day has again been very hot. Wind
+variable.
+
+Monday, 3rd June, Chain of Ponds. Started back to the commencement of the
+Chain of Ponds, and camped. During the day the sky has been overcast with
+heavy clouds. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 4th June, Chain of Ponds. Last night one of the horses was
+drowned in going down to drink at the water hole. He went into a boggy
+place, got his hind foot fastened in his hobbles, from which he could not
+extricate himself, and was drowned before we could save him. This is
+another great loss, for he was a good pack-horse, and was one that I
+intended taking on my next trip to the westward. At about 8 p.m. it began
+to rain, and continued the whole night, coming from the east and
+east-south-east. It still continues without any sign of a break. The
+ground has become so soft that when walking we sink up to the ankle, and
+the horses can scarcely move in it. At sundown there is no appearance of
+a change. It has rained without intermission the whole of last night and
+to-day. I do not know what effect this will have on my further progress,
+for now it is impossible to travel. The horses in feeding are already
+sinking above their knees. Wind and rain from east and east-south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 5th June, Chain of Ponds. There is a little sign of a break in
+the clouds this morning. The rain has continued the whole night. Ground
+very soft; it has become about the thickness of cream. The horses can
+scarcely get about to feed. Sundown: It has been showery all day; sky
+overcast; clouds and rain from same direction, south-east. In the
+afternoon some natives made their appearance at about six hundred yards'
+distance. As the rain had damped the cartridges I caused the rifles to be
+fired off in that direction; and, as the bullets struck the trees close
+to them they thought it best to retreat as fast as possible, yelling as
+they went.
+
+Thursday, 6th June, Chain of Ponds. During the night it has been stormy,
+with showers of rain, and is still the same this morning. Sundown: Still
+stormy, with a few drops of rain. Wind, east.
+
+Friday, 7th June, Chain of Ponds. During the night the rain ceased, and
+this morning is quite bright. Ground so soft that it is impossible to
+travel. Latitude, 17 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds. Sent Thring some
+miles to the west, to see in what state the country is, if fit for us to
+proceed, and if he can see any water that I could move the party to, for
+I do not like this place. If more rain falls it will lock us in all
+together--neither do I like leaving the party with so many natives about.
+At one o'clock he returned. The ground was so heavy that he had to turn
+at five miles. He could see no water, but a number of native tracks going
+to and coming from the west. I shall be obliged to leave the party here,
+and on Monday try another trip to the west. If I find water I shall
+return and take them to it. The day has been clear, but at sundown it is
+again cloudy. Clouds from north-west. Wind from east.
+
+Saturday, 8th June, Chain of Ponds. This morning it has again cleared
+off, and there is every appearance of fine weather. If it hold this way I
+shall be able to travel on Monday. Sundown: A few clouds. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Sunday, 9th June, Chain of Ponds. The day has again been fine. Wind,
+still south-east.
+
+Monday, 10th June, Chain of Ponds. Started at 7.55 a.m., course 275
+degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and Wall, nine horses, and fourteen
+days' provisions. The first five miles were over a grassy plain, with
+stunted gum and other trees. It was very soft, the horses sinking up to
+their knees. We met with a little rain water at three miles, where the
+soil became sandy; continued to be more so as we advanced, with lancewood
+and other scrubs growing upon it. At fourteen miles gained the top of a
+sand rise, which seems to be the termination of the sand hills that I
+turned back from on my west course south of this. From here the country
+seems to be a dense forest and scrub; no rising ground visible. Camped at
+5 p.m., distance thirty-two miles. The whole journey from the sand hills
+has been through a dense forest of scrubs of all kinds--hedge-tree, gum,
+mulga, lancewood, etc. We have had great difficulty in forcing the horses
+through it so far; they are very tired. It is the thickest scrub I have
+yet been in. Ground very soft; heavy travelling, with the exception of
+the last five miles, where little rain seems to have fallen. I am afraid
+this will be another hopeless journey. I fully expected to have got water
+to-night from the recent rains, but there is not a drop. The country is
+such that the surface cannot retain it, were it to fall in much larger
+quantities. I shall try a little further on to-morrow. I had a hole dug,
+to see if any rain had fallen, and found that it had penetrated two feet
+below the surface, below which it is quite dry. Wind, east.
+
+Tuesday, 11th June, Dense Forest and Scrub. Leaving Woodforde, Wall, and
+the pack-horses, I took Thring with me, and proceeded on the same course
+to see if I could get through the horrid forest and scrub, or meet with a
+change of country, or find some water. At two miles we came upon some
+grass again, which continued, and at another mile the forest became much
+more open and splendidly grassed, which again revived my sinking hopes;
+but alas, it only lasted about two miles, when we again entered the
+forest thicker than ever. At eleven miles it became so dense that it was
+nearly impenetrable. The horses would not face it; when forced, they made
+a rush through, tearing everything we had on, and wounding us severely by
+running against the dead timber (which was as sharp as a lancet) and
+through the branches. I saw that it was hopeless to force through any
+further. Not a drop of water have we seen, although the ground is quite
+moist--the horses sinking above the fetlock. The soil is red and sandy;
+the mulga from thirty to forty feet high and very straight; the bark has
+a stringy appearance. There is a great quantity of it lying dead on the
+ground, which causes travelling to become very difficult. I therefore
+returned to where I left Woodforde and Wall, and came back ten miles on
+yesterday's journey, and camped. This morning, about 5.30, we observed a
+comet bearing 110 degrees; length of tail, 10 degrees, and 10 degrees
+above the horizon. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 12th June, Western Dense Forest and Scrub. Proceeded to camp
+and found all well. This is the third long journey by which I have tried
+to make the Victoria in this latitude, but have been driven back every
+time by the same description of country and the want of water. There is
+not the least appearance of rising ground, or a change in the
+country--nothing but the same dismal, dreary forest throughout; it may in
+all probability continue to Mr. Gregory's last camp on the Camfield. My
+farthest point has been within a hundred miles of it. I would have
+proceeded further, but my horses are unable to do it; they look as if
+they had done a month's excessive work, from their feet being so dry, the
+forest so thick, and the want of water. Thus end my hopes of reaching the
+Victoria in this latitude, which is a very great disappointment. I should
+have dug wells if my party had been larger, and I had had the means of
+conveying water to those engaged in sinking the wells. I think I could
+accomplish it in that way; but by doing so, I should have to divide the
+party into three, (one sinking, one carrying water, and one at the camp),
+which would be too small a number where the natives appear to be so
+hostile. I have not the least doubt that water could be obtained at a
+moderate depth, near the end of my journeys, amongst the long thick
+timber, which seems to be the lowest part of the country. I had no idea
+of meeting with such an impediment as the plains and heavy scrub have
+proved to be. For a telegraphic communication I should think that three
+or four wells would overcome this difficulty and the want of water, and
+the forest could be penetrated by cutting a line through and burning it.
+In all probability there is water to be found nearer than this in the
+Camfield, Mr. Gregory's last camp, somewhere about its sources, which
+might be thirty miles nearer. Wind, south-east. Country drying up very
+fast.
+
+Thursday, 13th June, Chain of Ponds. To-day I shall move the camp to the
+easternmost part of Newcastle Water, and now that rain has come from the
+east, I shall try if I can cross Sturt Plains, and endeavour to reach the
+Gulf of Carpentaria. My provisions are now getting very short. We are
+reduced to four pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per man per
+week, which is beginning to show the effects of starvation upon some of
+them; but I can leave nothing untried where there is the least shadow of
+a chance of gaining the desired object. Started at 9.40 a.m. At three
+miles and a half passed our first camp of Newcastle Water. At eight miles
+and a half camped at the last water to the eastward. The ground is firmer
+than I expected, travelling good. The large part of the water is reduced
+two inches since 24th ultimo. The late rains seem to have no effect on
+it. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 14th June, East End of Newcastle Water. Started with Thring,
+Woodforde, and Wall, with one month's provisions and ten horses, at 7.45
+a.m.; course, 60 degrees. At two miles crossed our former tracks, on the
+top of the sandy table land, and after leaving it we again got on the
+open plains, black alluvial soil, covered with grass, with deep holes and
+cracks into which the horses were continually falling on their noses, and
+running the risk of breaking our necks. These plains have swallowed up
+every drop of rain that has fallen. The extent of the plain is seven
+miles. We then entered a thick wooded country, of the same description as
+the western forest, being equally thick, if not thicker, and as difficult
+to penetrate. This continued for thirteen miles, when we met with another
+small plain about half a mile wide, but opening out wider to north-west
+and south. Not a drop of water have we seen since leaving Newcastle
+Water, a distance of about thirty miles, except a little rain water about
+three miles east of it. The plains are quite dry, scarcely showing that
+rain has fallen. Camped. The horses have had a hard day's work and are
+very tired. I wish I could have found water for them to-night. Latitude,
+17 degrees 26 minutes 20 seconds. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday 15th June, North-east Small Plains, Sturt Plains. Started at
+7.30 a.m.; course, 60 degrees, through another ten miles of very thick
+forest, the thickest we have yet seen. At eleven miles came again upon
+the large open grassy plain, at the point where I turned on the 21st
+ultimo. I expected to have found some rain water here, this being the
+only place in all the plain I have seen that is likely to retain it. Sent
+Thring and Woodforde in different directions, while I proceeded in
+another, to see if we could find any, but not a drop could we see. It has
+been all swallowed up by the ground, which is again dry and dusty. It
+must take an immense quantity to saturate it, and leave any on the
+surface; and if that were to be the case, the country would become so
+soft it would be quite impassable. I am again forced to turn; it is quite
+hopeless to attempt it any farther. It would be sacrificing our horses,
+and, perhaps, our own lives, without the least prospect of attaining our
+end. If I could see rising ground, however small, or a change in the
+country to justify my risking everything, I would do so in a moment. I
+only wish there was. I have tried my horses to their utmost. Even my old
+horses that are inured to hardship are unable to be longer than three
+days without water, owing to the heat of the sun, the dryness of the
+feed, and the softness of the country. We saw a few cockatoos and
+pigeons. There might be water within a short distance, but none can we
+see or find; for on my course 20 degrees west of north I passed within
+two miles of Newcastle Water, where the main camp is now, but could not
+see it. It would require a long time to examine this country for water.
+There are so many clumps of trees, and strips of scrub on the plain,
+where water might be, that it would take upwards of twelve months to
+examine them all. At sundown camped fifteen miles from the main camp.
+Horses look very bad. It has been very heavy travelling, over rotten
+ground, and tearing through thick wood and scrub, which has skinned our
+legs from the knees to the ankles and caused no little pain. Wind,
+variable.
+
+Sunday, 16th June, Sturt Plains East. Proceeded to the camp, where I
+found all well. No natives had been near them. This is very disheartening
+work. I shall proceed to the south, and try once more to round that
+horrid thick western forest; it is now my only hope; if that fail I shall
+have to return. I am doubtful of the water in Ashburton range, if no rain
+has fallen there; those hills are the last of the rising ground within
+range of vision, which ends in about latitude 17 degrees 14 minutes. From
+south-south-east round the compass to south-south-west nothing but dense
+forest and Sturt Plains. Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 17th June, Newcastle Water East. Returned to the Lawson and
+camped. Little rain seemed to have fallen there. I kept a little to west
+of my former tracks to see the nature of the large open plain. It is
+completely matted with grass, having large deep holes and cracks, and is
+as dry as if no rain had fallen for months. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 18th June, Lawson Creek. Proceeded to Hunter Creek. Tracks of
+natives upon ours to Hawker Creek. Light winds, variable.
+
+Wednesday, 19th June, Hawker Creek. Although the water holes in this
+creek are full from recent rains, the water is very hard, evidently
+showing it must come from a spring in the hills. Proceeded to the Hunter
+along the foot of the hills, and at nine miles crossed the large gum
+creek, where I watered the horses on my north course; this I have named
+Powell Creek, after J.W. Powell, Esquire, of Clare. At twenty miles
+crossed another gum creek, which I have named Gleeson Creek, after E.B.
+Gleeson, Esquire, J.P., of Clare. Camped on the Hunter. Between this and
+Hawker Creek we crossed eleven gum creeks with water in them. The country
+passed over is not so good, being close to the hills: it is scrubby, and
+generally covered with spinifex. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 20th June, Hunter Creek. Three horses missing; could not be
+found until too late to reach the other water to-night. Wind, calm.
+
+Friday, 21st June, Hunter Creek. Proceeded to the water under Mount
+Primrose, over stony hills, the highest of which I have named Mount
+Shillinglaw, after ---- Shillinglaw, Esquire, F.R.C.S., of Melbourne, who
+kindly presented me with Flinders' Charts of North Australia. The gum
+creek on which we are now camped I have named Carruthers Creek, after
+John Carruthers, Esquire, of Adelaide. Calm.
+
+Saturday, 22nd June, Carruthers Creek. Proceeded to Tomkinson Creek,
+where I left the two horses; I will there rest the horses a day, and have
+those shod which I intend to take with me. The last two days have been
+over very stony country, which has made some of the horses quite lame. I
+am now running short of shoes. We can see nothing of the two horses about
+our old camp. Light wind from north-east, with a few clouds. Very hot in
+the middle of the day; evenings and mornings cold.
+
+Sunday, 23rd June, Tomkinson Creek. Sent Thring and Woodforde down the
+creek, and Masters up into the open plain, to see if they could find the
+horses on their tracks. In the afternoon they returned unsuccessful,
+except Masters, who had seen their tracks when the ground was boggy.
+Recent tracks of natives were also seen. If they have not been frightened
+away, they will not be far off. I have instructed Sullivan to follow
+their tracks, and try to find them during my absence. Wind, north-east,
+with a few clouds. The sun is very hot in the middle of the day.
+
+Monday, 24th June, Tomkinson Creek. Started with Thring, Masters, and
+Lawrence, and ten horses, with fourteen days' provisions, at 7.40 a.m.;
+course, 270 degrees east. We crossed the plain and the creek several
+times. At 12.20, fifteen miles, ascended a stony rise, and saw that the
+creek emptied itself into an open grassy plain, about two miles north of
+us. Proceeded on the same course over a gum plain covered with grass for
+five miles. The country then became sandy soil, slightly undulating, with
+ironstone, gravel, spinifex, gums, and occasionally a little scrub, which
+continued throughout the day. Camped without water. Very little feed for
+the horses, it being nearly all spinifex. Distance, twenty-eight miles.
+Wind, west; a few clouds.
+
+Tuesday, 25th June, Spinifex and Gum Plain West. Started at 7.40 a.m. on
+the same course, 270 degrees. Camped at twenty-seven miles. The country
+travelled through to-day is bad--red sandy light soil, covered with
+spinifex, slightly undulating, and having iron gravel upon it. Scarcely a
+blade of grass to be seen. Some gum-trees, and a low scrub of different
+sorts. I seem to have got to the south of the dense forest, but into a
+poorer country. Not a drop of water or a watercourse have we seen since
+we left Tomkinson Creek. We have crossed two or three low rises of
+ironstone gravel. Not having the dense forest to tear through has induced
+me to go on all day in the hope of meeting with a change, but at the end
+of the day there seems as little likelihood as when we first came upon
+it, and it may continue to the river. I am again forced to return
+disappointed. There is no hope of making the river now; it must be done
+from Newcastle Water with wells. I wish that I had twelve months'
+provisions and convenience for carrying water, I should then be enabled
+to do it. Wind, east.
+
+Wednesday, 26th June, Spinifex and Gum Plain. Started at 7 a.m. back
+towards Tomkinson Creek. At dusk found some water on the small plain into
+which the creek empties itself. Camped. Distance travelled to-day, forty
+miles. One of the horses completely done up. I am fortunate in finding
+this water, for another night without it and I should have lost some of
+them. I am also glad we had a cool day--only two hours' heat. The horses
+have travelled one hundred miles without water, and the country being
+sandy, made it very heavy walking for them. Wind, east.
+
+Thursday, 27th June, Tomkinson Creek. Started for the camp, and arrived
+at noon. Sullivan had gone after the horses, and lost himself for three
+days and two nights. Not making his appearance the first night, Kekwick
+sent Woodforde in search of him from south-east to north. Not returning
+the second night, Kekwick and Woodforde went out in another direction to
+try if they could cut his tracks, but were again unsuccessful. At about 3
+a.m. he came into the camp perfectly bewildered, and did not seem to
+recognise anyone. From what we can learn from him he must have gone to
+the south instead of the east, where the tracks of the two horses were
+seen. On the first night he came close to the camp--saw the other horses
+feeding, but could not find them. He can give no account of where he went
+the next day and night; on the third day he cut my outward tracks to the
+west, and the horse brought him to the camp. I observed his horse's
+tracks upon ours this morning, about ten miles down the creek, and could
+not imagine how they came there. Woodforde found the two horses he went
+in search of within three miles of the camp--they had not left the creek.
+The cream-coloured one had improved very much; but Reformer still looks
+miserable--I think he must be ill. Wind, north, with a few clouds coming
+from the same direction.
+
+Friday, 28th June, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses and preparing for
+another start. I shall try once more to make the Gulf of Carpentaria from
+this. There may be a chance of my being able to round Sturt Plains to the
+east or north-east. Wind, varying from south-east to north.
+
+Saturday, 29th June, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses, etc. Wind,
+south-east. Clouds all gone.
+
+Sunday, 30th June, Tomkinson Creek. Wind, north-east.
+
+Monday, 1st July, Tomkinson Creek. Started at 8.10 a.m., course 54
+degrees, with Thring, Woodforde, and Masters. At 11.20 (eleven miles),
+top of a high hill, which I named Mount Hawker, after the Honourable
+George C. Hawker, Speaker of the House of Assembly, S.A. At 12.45, four
+miles, struck a large creek; its course a little east of north, which I
+have named McKinlay Creek, after John McKinlay, Esquire. The first part
+of the journey was over stony undulations, gradually rising until we
+reached the top of Mount Hawker, the view from which was not very
+extensive on our course, being intercepted by stony spurs of the range
+nearly the same height, about eight hundred feet, and very rocky and
+precipitous. They are composed of sandstone, quartz, iron, limestone, and
+hard white flinty rocks. The sandstone predominates. We descended with
+great difficulty, crossed McKinlay Creek, and at five miles ascended
+another high hill, which I have named Mount Hall, after the Honourable
+George Hall, M.L.C. From this our view is most extensive, over a complete
+sea of white grassy plains. At about fifteen or twenty miles south-east
+are the terminations of other spurs of this range; beyond them nothing is
+visible on the horizon but white grassy plains. To the east and
+north-east the same. To the north apparently a strip of dense scrub and
+forest, which seems to end about north-east, beyond which, in the far
+distance, we can see the large grassy plain I turned back from on the
+21st of May and 15th of June. No rising ground visible except the hills
+of Ashburton range to north-west and south-east. Descended towards the
+plains over stony rises, with gum-tree, lancewood, and other scrub and
+spinifex. At five miles reached the plain. It is of the same description
+as the other parts I have been over. No appearance of water. It is
+hopeless to proceed further; it will only be rendering my return more
+difficult, by reducing the strength of my horses, without the slightest
+hope of success. All hope of gaining the Gulf without wells is now gone.
+I have therefore turned back to a small plain (four miles), searched
+round it, and in one of the small creeks found a little rain water, at
+which I have camped. Wind, south.
+
+Tuesday, 2nd July, Loveday Creek. This creek I have named Loveday Creek,
+after R.J. Loveday, Esquire, Lithographer to the South Australian
+Government. Returned towards the camp. On reaching McKinlay Creek I was
+informed by Woodforde that Masters had remained behind, about six miles
+back, and had not yet come up. This is against my strict orders which are
+that no one shall leave the party without informing me, that I may halt
+and wait for them. I have sent Thring back to one of the hills to fire
+off a gun, and see if he is to be seen, as I have left my outward tracks
+to avoid crossing Mount Hall--and the tracks are very difficult to be
+seen over such stony country. I am afraid that he is lost. In an hour and
+a half, Thring returned; he can see nothing of him. He cut our former
+tracks, but can see nothing of his on them. My conjectures, I fear, are
+too true. If he has missed the tracks, it is a thousand chances to one if
+he is ever found again. To track a single horse is impossible. I
+proceeded towards Mount Hawker, and camped on my outward tracks, at a
+remarkable gorge that we had come through. Sent Thring back to the top of
+Mount Hall to raise a smoke, to remain there some time, and see if he
+comes up; if not, he is to proceed to our last night's camp, there to
+remain all night, in case he should go there--while I and Woodforde
+raised another smoke on top of Mount Hawker. A little after 2 p.m. Thring
+returned with him. He found him on a hill near Mount Hall, looking for
+the tracks. He was quite bewildered, and in a great state of excitement.
+I am most thankful that he is found. The account that he gives is, that
+his horse slipped the reins out of his hand, and that he was unable to
+catch him for some time, and when he did so, he was unable to find our
+tracks, or to track his own horse back, and he became quite confused. He
+seems to be most thankful for his narrow escape. As it is too late to
+reach the camp, I shall remain here to-night. Wind, west.
+
+Wednesday, 3rd July, Under Mount Hawker. Proceeded to the camp on the
+Tomkinson. Found all right, with the exception of one of the horses
+(Reformer), which cannot be found. He is one of the two that I left here
+formerly, and was looking so ill when I found him. He was last seen on
+Monday night, when he looked miserable. I have sent three men in search
+of him. Wind, variable.
+
+Thursday, 4th July, The Tomkinson. Started at 8.20 a.m., course 300
+degrees, with Woodforde, Thring, and Masters, ten horses, and a month's
+provisions, to try once more to make the Victoria. Between my first and
+last attempts, I may succeed. I am very unwilling to return without
+trying all that is in my power. At three miles we left the plains, and
+proceeded over stony rises for two miles. The country then became sandy,
+with gum, spinifex, and lancewood scrub, not difficult to get through.
+There is no grass. At twenty-five miles came to a little, and, as I am
+not sure of coming upon any more soon, I camped. We have seen no water
+since leaving the creek. Latitude, 18 degrees 25 minutes 40 seconds.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 5th July, Spinifex and Gum Plains. Started at 7.50 a.m., course
+360 degrees, to find water. At 9.10 (five miles), struck a creek with
+water; followed it down, course 285 degrees, and at eight miles camped on
+the last water. The banks in places have good feed upon them, but there
+is a great deal of spinifex and scrub. The creek is getting narrower,
+and, as the horses had but little to eat last night, I shall give them
+the remainder of the day here, for there is no telling when they will get
+another good feed. Day exceedingly hot, horses covered with sweat. This I
+have named Burke Creek, after my brother explorer, Richard O'Hara Burke,
+Esquire, of Melbourne. On camping I saw a remarkable bird fly up; I sent
+Woodforde to try and shoot him, which he did. It was of a dark-brown
+colour, and spotted like the landrail; the tail feathers were nine in
+number, and twelve inches long. I have had it skinned, and will endeavour
+to take it to Adelaide. Thring, Woodforde, and Masters cooked the body,
+and ate it. They had scarcely finished, when, in a moment, they were
+seized with violent vomiting, but in a few minutes they were all right
+again. Wind, calm. Latitude, 18 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 6th July, Burke Creek. Started at 7.45 a.m., same course, to
+follow the creek (285 degrees). At three miles it was lost in a grassy
+gum plain; changed to 300 degrees. On this course the plain continued for
+three miles; it then became sandy soil, with spinifex, gums, and scrub.
+Crossed a low sand hill at fourteen miles; descended into another low
+grassy plain subject to inundation, which, I suppose, receives Hunter
+Creek. It continued for two miles, at the end of which we again ascended
+a sandy rise, on the top of which the country became a sandy table land,
+and continued so the rest of the day's journey. Camped without water, and
+with very little grass. The table land was spinifex, gums, and scrub, in
+some places very difficult to get through. Distance, thirty miles. Wind,
+south-east. Latitude, 18 degrees 7 minutes 5 seconds. At 7 p.m. I
+observed the comet, 5 degrees above the horizon, bearing 15 degrees west
+of north, the nucleus more hazy, and the tail much longer. Calm.
+
+Sunday, 7th July, West Sandy Table Land. Started at 8 a.m. on the same
+course. At 3 p.m. we got into dense scrub, and, as I could see some
+distance on before, being on one of the slight undulations, I felt there
+was not the slightest hope of obtaining water; there was no change, no
+rising ground visible. It would be hopeless to continue such sandy
+country, as it can never hold water on the surface. We dug five feet, in
+one of the small plains, but came to the clay without finding water, or
+even moisture. There is not a mouthful of grass for the horses to eat;
+the whole of the journey, with the exception of the small grassy plains,
+is spinifex, gums, and scrub. I shall have to retreat to the last plain
+we passed through to get feed for the horses, which are looking very bad.
+The travelling has been heavy tearing through thick scrub, which in some
+places has been burned: this makes it very rough for them. I must now
+give up all hope of reaching the Victoria, and am unwillingly forced to
+return, my horses being nearly worn out. Wind, variable. Distance,
+twenty-five miles.
+
+Monday, 8th July, Small Grass Plain in Scrub. Started at break of day and
+continued until 4.30 p.m. Meeting with a little grass, camped; some of
+the horses unable to go further. Wind, south.
+
+Tuesday, 9th July, Sandy Table Land. Started at sunrise and arrived at
+Burke Creek. At 11 a.m. turned the horses out to feed for two hours, and
+proceeded up the creek to where I first struck it. Camped. At a little
+more than a mile down the creek from here, there is a course of concrete
+ironstone running across it, which forms a large pond of water nearly a
+mile in length, apparently deep and permanent. Wind, west.
+
+Wednesday, 10th July, Burke Creek. Shortly after sunrise proceeded toward
+the main camp, and arrived there at 3 p.m. Found all well. The natives
+have been about. They attacked Wall while in search of the missing horse;
+he and his horse narrowly escaped being hit by their boomerangs. The
+missing horse cannot be found. I suppose that he has crept into some
+bushes and died; for, the night before he was missed, he left the other
+horses and came to the camp fire; he appeared to be very stupid, and for
+some time they could not get him away; when they did so, he went off
+reeling. Wind, south-west.
+
+Thursday, 11th July, Tomkinson Creek. Shoeing horses, and repairing
+saddles and bags to carry our provisions back. We have now run out of
+everything for that purpose, and are obliged to make all sorts of shifts.
+The two tarpaulins that I brought from Mr. Chambers's station for mending
+the bags, are all used up some time ago, and nearly all the spare bags;
+the sewing-twine has been used long since, and we are obliged to make
+some from old bags. We are all nearly naked, the scrub has been so severe
+on our clothes; one can scarcely tell the original colour of a single
+garment, everything is so patched. Our boots are also gone. It is with
+great reluctance that I am forced to return without a further trial. I
+should like to go back, and try from Newcastle Water, but my provisions
+will not allow me. I started with thirty weeks' supply at seven pounds of
+flour per week, and have now been out twenty-six, and it will take me ten
+weeks before I can reach the first station. The men are also failing, and
+showing the effects of short rations. I only wish I had sufficient to
+carry me over until the rain will fall in next March. I think I should be
+able to make both the Victoria and the Gulf. I had no idea when starting
+that the hills would terminate so soon in such extensive level country,
+without water, or I should have tried to make the river, and see what the
+country was, when I first saw the rising grounds from Mount Primrose,
+which are the sand and iron undulations passed over on my southernmost
+western journey. Before I went to Newcastle Water they completely
+deceived me; for from the top of the mount they had the appearance of a
+high range, which I was glad to see, thinking that if the range I was
+then following up should cease, or if I could not find a way into the
+river further north, I would be sure to get in by that distant range,
+which caused me to leave the Newcastle Water country sooner than I should
+otherwise have done; and now I have not provisions to take me back again.
+From what I have seen of the country to the west and south of Newcastle
+Water, I am of opinion that it would be no use trying again to make the
+river, for I believe no water can be obtained by sinking. To the west and
+north-west of Newcastle Water the country is apparently lower, and I
+think that water could be obtained at a moderate depth. It is the
+shortest distance between the waters; but the greatest difficulty would
+be in getting through the dense forest and scrub, but that, I should
+think, could be overcome. It certainly is a great disappointment to me
+not to be able to get through, but I believe I have left nothing untried
+that has been in my power. I have tried to make the Gulf and river, both
+before rain fell, and immediately after it had fallen; but the results
+were the same, UNSUCCESSFUL. Even after the rain I could not get a step
+further than before it. I shall commence my homeward journey to-morrow
+morning. Wind, south. The horses have had a severe trial from the long
+journeys they have made, and the great hardships and privations they have
+undergone. On my last journey they were one hundred and six hours without
+water.
+
+On Friday, July 12th, Mr. Stuart quitted Tomkinson Creek to return to
+Adelaide, and on the following Friday reached Ann Creek on the north side
+of the Murchison range. On the 30th, the party proceeded across the
+Centre, and camped south-west of it, on the Hanson. The nights now became
+very cold, and there was usually white frost on the grass, and ice in the
+buckets every morning. On August 6th they camped under Brinkley Bluff,
+and remained there until the 8th. The Hamilton was reached on the 23rd,
+and here the natives again showed some hostility, contenting themselves,
+however, with yelling and howling, and endeavouring to set fire to the
+grass, in which they were happily unsuccessful. On Saturday, August 31st,
+they arrived at Mr. Levi's station, where all of them "were overjoyed at
+once more seeing the face of a white man." They were received with great
+kindness and attention. After remaining there three days they proceeded
+by way of Louden Spa, William Springs, Paisley Ponds, and Hamilton
+Springs to Chambers Creek, where they arrived on September 7th and
+remained until the 10th.
+
+The last entry in Mr. Stuart's journal is as follows:
+
+Sunday, 15th September, Moolooloo. I shall leave to-morrow for Port
+Augusta, and proceed by steamer for Adelaide, leaving the party to be
+brought into town by Mr. Kekwick.
+
+I cannot close my Journal without expressing my warmest thanks to my
+second in command, and my other companions; they have been brave, and
+have vied with each other in performing their duties in such a manner as
+to make me at all times feel confident that my orders were carried out to
+the best of their ability, and to my entire satisfaction; and I also beg
+to tender my best thanks to the promoters (Messrs. Chambers and Finke)
+and the Government, for the handsome manner I was fitted out.
+
+JOHN McDOUALL STUART,
+
+Leader of the Expedition.
+
+
+JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION ACROSS THE CONTINENT OF
+AUSTRALIA. FROM DECEMBER, 1861, TO DECEMBER, 1862.
+
+Mr. Stuart made his public entry into Adelaide on Monday, 23rd September,
+and reported himself to the authorities. Almost at the same time the
+Victorian Government obtained their first traces of the survivors of the
+ill-fated expedition under Burke and Wills.* (* The news of their death
+reached Melbourne on November 2nd.) The South Australian Government had
+such confidence in Mr. Stuart that, on his expressing his readiness to
+make another attempt to cross the continent, they at once closed with his
+offer, and in less than a month (on October 21st) the new expedition
+started from Adelaide to proceed to Chambers Creek, and get everything in
+order there for a final start. Mr. Stuart accompanied them for a few
+miles to see that everything went on well, when, one of the horses
+becoming restive, he advanced with the intention of cutting the rope
+which was choking the animal; the horse reared and struck him on the
+temple with its fore foot, knocking him down and rendering him
+insensible. The brute then sprang forward and placed one of his hind feet
+on Mr. Stuart's right hand, and, rearing again, dislocated two joints of
+his first finger, tearing the flesh and nail from it, and injuring the
+bone to such an extent that amputation of the finger was at first thought
+unavoidable. By careful treatment, however, it was unnecessary to resort
+to such a course, and in five weeks the leader was able to start to
+overtake his party, some of whom were to remain at Moolooloo until he
+joined them.
+
+In no way discouraged either by his own unlucky accident and previous
+want of success, or by the melancholy end of his brother explorers, Burke
+and Wills, Mr. Stuart arrived at Moolooloo on Friday, December 20th, and
+at Finniss Springs on the 29th. The names of the party were as follows:
+
+John McDouall Stuart, Leader of the Expedition.
+William Kekwick, Second Officer.
+F.W. Thring, Third Officer.
+W.P. Auld, Assistant.
+Stephen King.
+John Billiatt.
+James Frew.
+Heath Nash.
+John McGorrerey, Shoeing Smith.
+J.W. Waterhouse, Naturalist to the Expedition.
+
+Besides these, there were at starting, Woodforde and Jeffries; but at
+Finniss Springs, the latter struck one of his companions, and, on being
+called to account by his leader, refused to go any further. As to the
+former, when quitting Mr. Levi's station on January 21st, it was
+arranged, in order to lighten the weak horses, that the great-coats of
+the party should be left, but Woodforde objected to this, and said he
+would not go unless he had his great-coat with him. Mr. Stuart had very
+properly decided not to take any man who refused to obey orders, and he
+therefore started without him. The next day Woodforde rejoined the party
+near Milne Springs, but did not accompany them many days longer; for on
+February 3rd, shortly after starting, he asked McGorrerey to hold his gun
+while he returned to get something he had left behind at the previous
+night's camp. About an hour afterwards, McGorrerey discovered a piece of
+folded-up paper on the nipple of the gun, and on examination this proved
+to be an insolent note, addressed to his leader, stating that he had gone
+back, taking with him a horse, saddle, bridle, tether-rope, and sundry
+other things not belonging to him. Mr. Stuart had been much dissatisfied
+with his conduct for some days, and had made up his mind to send him
+back, believing that he was doing everything in his power to discourage
+the party, and bring his leader's authority into contempt.
+
+At Marchant Springs, where they arrived on February 15th, they began to
+experience annoyance from the natives. On the 17th, as Auld was
+approaching the water-hole, a native who was there called to some others
+who were posted in trees, and shortly afterwards a great cloud of smoke
+was seen to windward, coming towards the camp. It was evidently their
+intention to attack the exploring party under cover of the smoke, "but
+Thring, while looking for the horses, came suddenly on three of them
+concealed behind a bush, armed with spears and boomerangs; he did not
+perceive them until within twelve yards of them. They immediately jumped
+up, and one of them threw a boomerang at him, which fortunately missed
+both him and his horse. He was obliged to use his revolver in self
+defence," but with what result Mr. Stuart does not state.
+
+The excessive heat of the weather now proved a great hindrance to the
+expedition. They had already lost so many horses that a large part of
+their provisions, etc. had to be abandoned on various occasions. On
+February 23rd, Mr. Stuart writes:
+
+"Before reaching this place (the Hugh) five other horses gave in, and
+were unable to proceed further. I cannot understand the cause of the
+horses knocking up so much; every one of them has fallen off the last
+week. Whether it is the excessive heat or the brackish water of the
+Finke, I am unable to say. Last night I tried some citric acid in the
+water of the Finke, and it caused it to effervesce, showing that the
+water contained soda." It was afterwards ascertained that the horses were
+suffering from worms, which may partially account for their failing
+strength.
+
+After leaving the Hugh, on February 25th, they were again annoyed by the
+natives. When about half-way through the gorge, they "set fire to the
+grass and dry wood across the creek, which caused a dense smoke to blow
+in our faces. I had the party prepared for an attack. After passing
+through the smoke and fire, three natives made their appearance about
+twenty-five yards off, on the hill side, armed with spears and shields,
+and bidding us defiance by placing the spears in the womeras, and yelling
+out at the highest pitch of their voices. I ordered Auld to dismount and
+fire a shot a little distance on one side of them, to let them know what
+distance our weapons carried. The ball struck the rock pointed out to him
+to aim at, and stopped their yelling, but seemed to have no other effect.
+I again ordered him to fire at the rock on which the middle one of the
+three was standing; the shot was a good one, for the ball struck the
+desired spot, and immediately had the effect of sending them all off at
+full speed."
+
+Again, on March 5th, while crossing the plains under Mount Hay, they came
+suddenly on three natives armed with long spears and shields, who ran off
+into the scrub. A short distance further, while watering the horses at
+some rain water, these three natives returned, accompanied by four
+others, and made signs of hostility, by yelling and shaking their spears,
+and performing other threatening antics while widely separating
+themselves in a half-circle. Mr. Stuart says: "I had the party prepared
+to receive an attack; but when they saw us stationary they approached no
+nearer. I ordered some of the party to fire close to them, to show them
+we could injure them at a long distance, if they continued to annoy us,
+but they did not seem at all frightened at the report of the rifles nor
+the whizzing of the balls near to them, since they still remained in a
+threatening attitude. With the aid of a telescope we could perceive a
+number of others concealed in the belt of scrub. They all seemed fine
+muscular men. There was one tall fellow in particular with a large shield
+and a very long spear (upwards of twelve feet), which he seemed very
+anxious to use if he could have got within distance. We crossed the
+creek, and had proceeded a short distance across the plain, when they
+again came running towards us, apparently determined to attack; they were
+received with a discharge of rifles, which caused them to retire and keep
+at a respectful distance. Having already wasted too much time with them,
+I proceeded over the plain, keeping a sharp look-out; should they
+threaten us again, I shall allow them to come close, and make an example
+of them. It is evident their designs are hostile. Before entering the
+scrub we could see no signs of them following. About sundown, arrived at
+Mount Harris without further annoyance."
+
+A week later (on March 12th) the Centre was passed; and on the 17th,
+while going from Woodforde Creek through the bad country towards the
+Bonney, Thring met with an awkward accident, which his leader thus
+describes: "Being anxious to keep my old tracks through the scrub, as it
+does not wear the saddle-bags so much as breaking through a new line, I
+missed them about two miles after starting, in consequence of the
+earliness and cloudiness of the morning. I sent Thring in search of them,
+and he, on finding them a short distance off, fired his revolver to let
+us know that the tracks were found. The young horse he was riding stood
+the first report very well. I, not hearing the report, was moving on,
+which caused him to fire again, whereupon his horse backed and threw him
+with violence to the ground on his chest. He feels his chest is much hurt
+by the fall. The horse then returned on the tracks at full gallop," and
+was not recovered until shortly before sundown.
+
+The party camped at Attack Creek on Friday, March 28th, and at Tomkinson
+Creek on the 31st. On April 3rd, while crossing the Gleeson, Kekwick's
+horse fell back with him in ascending the bank, and broke the stock of
+his gun, but he himself escaped unhurt. On Saturday, April 5th, they
+camped at the east end of Newcastle Water, and the following day, "at
+about 9 o'clock a.m. Kekwick, in endeavouring to shoot some ducks, went
+towards some native smoke, and was met by two natives, who ran away. In
+an hour afterwards, five natives came within a hundred yards of the camp,
+and seemed anxious to come up to it, but were not permitted. Two hours
+afterwards we were again visited by fifteen more, to some of whom a
+present was made of some looking-glasses and handkerchiefs; at the same
+time they were given to understand that they must not approach nearer to
+the camp, and signs were made to them to return to their own camp, which
+they shortly did. In the afternoon we were again visited by nineteen of
+them, who approached within a hundred yards of the camp, when they all
+sat down and had a good stare at us, remaining a long time without
+showing any inclination to go. At length some of them started the horses
+which were feeding near the water, and made them gallop towards the camp.
+This so frightened the natives that they all ran away, and we were not
+troubled with them for the rest of the evening."
+
+The next day the camp was moved to the north end of Newcastle Water,
+where they remained for a week resting horses and repairing bags,
+saddles, etc. The Journal then continues as follows:
+
+Monday, 14th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in
+charge of the party, started with Thring and Frew at 7.15 a.m., on a
+northerly course, in search of water; and at six miles, on the edge of
+the open plains, found some rainwater, sufficient for a few days.
+Proceeded across the plain on the same course; but at three miles saw
+something like a watercourse, and changed my course to 20 degrees, to see
+what it was. At two miles I struck a dry course running south-west.
+Followed it up towards the small rise without finding any water. Three
+miles further on the same course I ascended a low stony rise, from which
+I could see nothing but a thick forest of tall mulga and gums. I changed
+to a northerly course, and, at 4.20 p.m., camped in a forest without
+water. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 15th April, Sturt Plains, Forest. Proceeded on a course of 250
+degrees, and at five miles again struck the open plains, and changed to
+180 degrees. At one mile I found a fine water hole three feet deep and
+about forty feet in diameter, the edge of which was surrounded with
+conglomerate ironstone rock; watered the horses, and proceeded on a
+southerly course, through grassy plains with stunted gum-trees, to the
+first water I found yesterday, and camped. The plains and forest are of
+the same description as I have already given, only that the plains have
+not quite so many holes in them, and the forest in many places is covered
+with ironstone gravel. I shall try a course to the north of west
+to-morrow, to see if I can find water. Wind variable.
+
+Wednesday, 16th April, Frew's Water Hole, Sturt Plains. Started at 7.45
+a.m., on a course of 302 degrees, keeping along the edge of the open
+plain. I have made many twistings and turnings, but my general course is
+north-west for ten miles. Seeing a small rise on the open plain, a little
+to the north of west, I changed to 275 degrees; and at two miles came on
+some fine ponds of water about one mile and a half long, twenty feet
+broad, and three feet and a half deep. I examined them on both sides, to
+see if they would do for a permanent camp for the party as it is a point
+nearer; and I think I may depend on the water lasting two months without
+any more rain. I shall camp here to-night, and try another day to-morrow
+to the westward, and endeavour to make the Victoria, for I can see but
+little chance of making the Adelaide. By my journal of the 14th,
+everything is quite dry and parched up; no rain seems to have fallen
+there for a long time. The last two days have been excessively hot. The
+further to the west the hotter I find it. The natives seem to be
+numerous, for their smoke in the scrub is to be seen in every direction.
+I name these ponds after John Howell, Esquire, of Adelaide.
+
+Thursday, 17th April, Howell Ponds. Started at 7 a.m., on a bearing 10
+degrees north of west. At twelve miles crossed the open plains, and
+entered a thick forest of gums and other trees and shrubs. Seeing that
+there is no chance of finding water to-day, returned to the ponds. The
+open plains seem to tend more to the north-west; I shall examine them
+when I bring the party up to the ponds. Distance, fifteen miles. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Friday, 18th April, Howell Ponds. Started for the camp on the Newcastle
+Water. On my arrival, I found the party all right, but very anxious about
+me, as I had been absent longer than I intended. No natives had been near
+them during my absence at this time; smoke was seen all around. Weather
+hot during the day, but cold at night and in the morning. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Saturday, 19th April, North End of Newcastle Water. I shall remain here
+till Monday, in order to take some lunar observations, as I am not quite
+certain that my longitude is correct. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 20th April, North End of Newcastle Water. Wind from the east;
+blowing strongly during the day, but it dropped a little before sundown,
+allowing the mosquitoes to annoy us very much.
+
+Monday, 21st April, North End of Newcastle Water. Some of the horses
+having strayed some distance made it 10 o'clock a.m. before I could get a
+start. Proceeded through six miles of forest and scrub to the water that
+I found on the 14th instant; from thence I changed to 301 degrees 30
+minutes for nine miles, and then to 275 degrees, and at two miles camped
+at the ponds I had discovered on the 16th. Native smoke all around us.
+The day has been very hot, and the flies a perfect nuisance. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 22nd April, Howell Ponds. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the
+north-west in search of water. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 23rd April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, I started with Thring and Frew at 8.5 a.m., on a course of 284
+degrees. At 9.55 (seven miles) changed to 320 degrees. At 11.20 (four
+miles and a half) crossed the open plain, changing to 40 degrees to avoid
+the scrub. At one mile and a half changed to west. At one mile changed to
+north-west. At 2.20 (five miles) changed to 45 degrees. At 3 o'clock (two
+miles) changed to north. At 3.25 one mile and a half changed to
+north-west. At 3.45 camped without water. I have skirted the border of
+the forest land in the hope of finding water, but am disappointed. I have
+not seen a drop since I started. The plains are covered with beautiful
+grass, two or three feet high. There are a great many different kinds of
+birds about, and native smoke all round. I have searched every place
+where I thought there was the least chance of finding water, but without
+success. The day has been exceedingly hot. With such hot weather as this
+I dare not attempt to make the Victoria. The horses could not stand a
+hundred and forty miles without water. Those I have had with me to-day
+seem to have suffered enough, and would not stand another two days
+without. I must therefore return to the camp to-morrow. Wind, calm.
+
+Thursday, 24th April, Sturt Plains. Returned to the camp and found all
+right. The day has been excessively hot. We have seen nothing new during
+the journey--the same open plains, with forest between.
+
+Friday, 25th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, started at 8.20 a.m., with Thring and Frew and fresh horses, on a
+northerly course, in hopes of better success in that direction: course
+360 degrees for twenty-two miles; grassy plains, covered in many places
+with stunted gums, and a new tree with a small green leaf. After that, we
+entered again a thick forest, and scrub almost impassable. At
+twenty-eight miles, seeing no prospect of getting through it, I returned
+two miles to a small open space, where I could tether the horses. I have
+not seen a drop of water this day's journey. The forest is so very thick,
+and so many twistings and turnings are required to pass through it, that,
+although I travelled thirty miles, I don't believe I made more than
+fifteen miles in a straight line. The day again exceedingly hot, with a
+few clouds. A few birds were seen during this day's journey, but no
+pigeons, which are the only sign we have now of being near water. Wind
+variable.
+
+Saturday, 26th April, Dense Forest. Returned to the camp. The horses felt
+the heat and the want of water very much. In the forest the heat was
+almost suffocating. I hope it will rain soon and cool the ground and
+replenish the ponds, which are drying up fast. There have been a few
+clouds during the day, but after sundown they all cleared away. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Sunday, 27th April, Howell Ponds. A few clouds have again made their
+appearance, but still no rain. There has not fallen a drop of rain since
+I left the Woodforde, which was on the 9th of March. Wind, south-east.
+Latitude, 17 degrees 5 minutes 16 seconds.
+
+Monday, 28th April, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, started with Thring and King, on a course of 338 degrees, to try
+and find an opening in the dense forest and scrub, as well as water. At
+ten miles we crossed the open plain, with stunted gum-trees and long
+grass. At this point we met with a small ironstone rise, about twenty
+feet in height. On ascending I was again disappointed in finding before
+me a dense forest and scrub. Proceeding in our course, it became thicker
+than any which I had ever encountered before, and was almost impassable.
+Still continued, and for a short distance in some places it became more
+open. A little before sundown I camped on the edge of a stunted gum-tree
+plain. There are a few slate-coloured cockatoos and other birds, which
+lead me to hope that, in the morning, I may drop across some water. Wind
+variable, with a few clouds during the day.
+
+Tuesday, 29th April, Sturt Plains. Started on an easterly course,
+following the flight of the birds; but at five miles crossed the open gum
+plain, and again encountered the thick forest. Examined every place I
+could see or think of where water was likely to be found, but was again
+disappointed--not a drop was to be seen. Changed my course, so as to keep
+on the plain; at four miles again crossed, and again met the dense
+forest, but still no water. Changed to south-east, and at ten miles found
+ourselves on a large stunted-gum plain. Changed to a little east of
+south, and arrived at the camp without seeing a drop of water. Wind
+variable, with heavy clouds from the east.
+
+Wednesday, 30th April, Howell Ponds. I feel so unwell to-day that I am
+unable to go out, besides I shall require my compass case and other
+things mended; they got torn to pieces in the last journey by the forest
+and the scrub. Yesterday's clouds are all gone, and have left us no rain.
+Another hot day. Wind, east.
+
+Thursday, 1st May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, started with King and Thring to the water hole that I discovered
+on the 15th ultimo; arrived in the afternoon and camped. This water hole
+I have named Frew's Water Hole, in token of my approbation of his care
+of, and attention to, the horses. This waterhole is about twenty feet
+below the plain, surrounded by a conglomerate ironstone rock. Since my
+last visit it is only reduced two inches, and is still a large body of
+clear water from the drainage of the adjacent country; it will last much
+longer than I anticipated. I shall use my best endeavours to-morrow to
+find an opening in the thick scrub from north to north-west. The course
+of the forest seems to run a little west of north, and I am afraid the
+open plains are surrounded by it; however, I shall try to get through it
+if I possibly can. Wind, south-east. Day excessively hot.
+
+Friday, 2nd May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at half-past seven o'clock
+a.m. Course, 335 degrees. At ten miles, a dense forest and scrub. Changed
+to 10 degrees east of north. At half a mile struck a water-shed, and
+followed it north for two miles. Found a little rainwater in it, and at
+two miles further arrived at its source. At three miles further on the
+same course changed to 30 degrees east of north. At three miles and a
+half again changed to 320 degrees, and at about a mile and a half struck
+some fine ponds of water. At two miles further, arrived at what seemed to
+be the last water, a small shallow pond. Examined around the plain to try
+and find others, but without success. A little before sundown, returned
+to the last water and camped. The first part of the day's journey was
+over a stunted-gum plain, covered with grass. At ten miles we again met
+with thick forest and scrub. I then changed my course to get out of it,
+and struck the small water-shed running to the east of south. Following
+it generally for two miles on a northerly course, we met with a little
+rain water. Continued the same course through a thick forest and scrub
+for three miles and a half to get through it if possible. At this point
+it becomes denser than ever. Sent Thring to climb to the top of a tree,
+from which he saw apparently a change in one of the low scrubby rises,
+which appeared to be not so thickly covered with scrub as the others. I
+directed my course to it, 30 degrees east of north, to examine it. I
+observe that there is some sandstone in the low scrubby rises, which
+leads me to hope that I may not be far from a change of country. On this
+last course we travelled three miles, through a dense thicket of
+hedge-tree, when I observed some large gum-trees bearing 320 degrees, and
+decided to examine them before leaving the rise. As I approached nearer
+to it I again sent Thring to climb a tree to see if there was any change.
+He could see nothing but the same description of forest and scrub. The
+change that he saw from the other tree was the shade of the sun on the
+lower mulga bushes, which caused him to suppose that it was more open
+country. Not seeing any opening in that direction, I changed to the
+gum-trees. At a mile and a half was delighted at the sight of a chain of
+fine water holes; their course north-west to south-east, the flow
+apparently to south-east. I followed one pond, which was about half a
+mile long and appeared to be deep. A number of smaller ones succeeded.
+They then ceased, and I crossed a small plain, which shows signs of being
+at times covered with water. Observing some green and white barked
+gum-trees on the west side of it, I went to them, and found a small
+watercourse with small pools of water, which flowed into the plain coming
+from the north-west. Following it a little further, we met with some more
+water. A short distance above this it ceased in the dense forest which
+seems to surround these ponds. I shall endeavour to force my way through
+it to-morrow to the west of north. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds in
+the same direction. These ponds I name King's Ponds, in token of my
+approbation of his care of, and attention to, the horses, and his
+readiness and care in executing all my orders. Wind, south-east, with a
+few clouds in the same direction.
+
+Saturday, 3rd May, King's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes past
+seven a.m., on a course of 350 degrees. At twenty-four miles changed to
+45 degrees; at three miles and a half changed to north; at two miles and
+a half camped. At two miles from our last night's camp found an easy
+passage through the forest; the rest of the twenty-four miles was over a
+well-grassed country, well wooded with gum and some new trees that I had
+found last year, and occasionally a little scrub, in some places thick
+for a short distance. On my first course, before changing, I was crossing
+low ironstone undulations, which caused me to think I was running along
+the side of one of the scrubby rises. I therefore changed to 45 degrees
+east of north to make the plain--if there is any--the scrub being so
+thick that I cannot see more than fifty yards before me. At three miles
+and a half I found that I was travelling over the same description of
+small rises and getting into much thicker scrub. I again changed to
+north, to see if that would lead me into a plain. At two miles and a half
+it was still the same, and apparently a thick forest and scrub before us.
+I camped a little before sundown at a small open place to tether the
+horses. I have not seen a drop of water during the whole journey, nor any
+place likely to retain it, with the exception of a small flat about six
+miles from the last camp. The day very hot. Wind, south-east, with a few
+clouds.
+
+Sunday, 4th May, Dense Forest. Returned to King's Ponds. This country
+seems but little frequented by the natives, as we have seen no recent
+tracks of them. There are a number of cockatoos and other birds about. We
+have seen no other game, except one wallaby and one kangaroo. There are
+plenty of old emu tracks about the ponds. Wind, variable. Cloudy.
+
+Monday, 5th May, King's Ponds. Returned to Frew's Water Hole and camped.
+Before sundown the sky became overcast with clouds. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 6th May, Frew's Water Hole. Towards morning we had a few drops
+of rain. Returned to the camp and found all well. Yesterday they were
+visited by a few natives who seemed to be very friendly; they called
+water ninloo: they were armed with spears, about ten feet long, having a
+flat sharp flint point about six inches long, with a bamboo attached to
+the other end. They pointed to the west as the place where they got the
+bamboo and water also, but they seemed to know nothing of the country
+north of this; they were tall, well-made, elderly men. After talking for
+some time they went away very quietly. To-day they have set fire to the
+grass round about us, and the wind being strong from the south-east it
+travelled with great rapidity. In coming into the camp, about three miles
+back, I and the two that were with me narrowly escaped being surrounded
+by it; it was as much as our horses could do to get past it, as it came
+rolling and roaring along in one immense sheet of flame and smoke,
+destroying everything before it.
+
+Wednesday, 7th May, Howell Ponds. Resting. The natives have not again
+visited us, but their smoke is seen all around. I shall start to-morrow
+on a course west of north, to try and make the Victoria by that route. I
+shall take some of the waterbags with me to see how they answer. Wind,
+south-east. Clouds all gone.
+
+Thursday, 8th May, Howell Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, started with Thring and McGorrerey, also with King and Nash, who
+are to bring back the horses which carry the waterbags, whilst I with
+Thring and McGorrerey proceed on a west course. Started at half-past
+eight a.m., keeping the former tracks made on my previous journey to the
+westward, to where we met with the thick forest. About a mile beyond,
+struck a native track, followed it, running nearly north-west, until
+nearly three o'clock p.m., when we came upon a small water hole or
+opening in the middle of a small plain, which seems to have been dug by
+the natives, and is now full of rain water. This is apparently the water
+that the natives pointed to, for their tracks are coming into it from
+every direction. This opening I have named Nash Spring, in token of my
+approbation. I am very much disappointed with the water-bags; in coming
+this distance of twenty-one miles they have leaked out nearly half. Wind,
+south east.
+
+Friday, 9th May, Nash Spring. Sent King and Nash with the horses that
+carried the water-bags back to the depot, while I and the other two, at
+twenty minutes to eight o'clock a.m. proceeded on a bearing of 290
+degrees, following one of the native tracks running in that direction. At
+about a mile they became invisible; for that distance I observed that a
+line of trees was marked down each side of the track by cutting a small
+piece of bark from off the gum-trees with a tomahawk. This I had never
+seen natives do before; the marks are very old. At eighteen miles and a
+half struck another track (the trees cut in the same way) crossing our
+course; followed it, bearing 10 degrees east of north, and at about two
+miles came on a native well with moisture in it. Followed the valley on
+the same course, but seeing no more appearance of water, I again changed
+to my original course, and, at a quarter to four o'clock, finding that I
+was again entering the dense forest and scrub, I camped at a good place
+for feed for the horses, but no water. The whole of the day's journey has
+been through a wooded country, in some places very thick, but in most
+open; it is composed of gums, hedge-trees, and some new trees--the gums
+predominating; there were also a few patches of lancewood scrub. For the
+first eighteen miles the soil was light and sandy, with spinifex and a
+little grass mixed. At the end of eighteen miles I again got into the
+grass country, with occasionally a little spinifex. Wind, south-east.
+Cold during the night and morning.
+
+Saturday, 10th May, The Forest. Started at five minutes to seven o'clock
+a.m. (same course, 290 degrees). Almost immediately encountered a dense
+forest of tall mulga, with an immense quantity of dead wood lying on the
+ground. It was with the greatest difficulty that the horses could be made
+to move through it. At a mile it became a little more open, which
+continued for six miles. At seven miles I thought, from the appearance of
+the country, that it was dipping towards the north-north-west; I
+therefore changed my course to north-west, and in less than a mile again
+entered a dense forest of tall mulga, thicker than I had yet been into.
+Continued pushing, tearing, and winding into it for three miles. The
+further I went the denser it became. I saw that it was hopeless to
+continue any further. We were travelling full speed, and making little
+more than a mile an hour throughout the ten miles gone over to-day. The
+country is a red light soil and covered with abundance of grass, but
+completely dried up. No rain seems to have fallen here for a length of
+time. We have not seen a bird, nor heard the chirrup of any to disturb
+the gloomy silence of the dark and dismal forest--thus plainly indicating
+the absence of water in and about this country. I therefore retraced my
+steps towards Nash Springs; passed our last night's camp, and continued
+on till sundown, one of the horses being completely knocked up. Camped
+without water. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 11th May, The Forest. This morning the horse that was so bad last
+night was found dead, which puts us in a very awkward position--without a
+pack-horse. We had to leave behind the pack-saddle, bags, and all other
+things we could not carry with us on our riding-horses. Proceeded to Nash
+Spring, which we reached after two o'clock p.m., with another of the
+horses completely knocked up. It was with difficulty that he reached it.
+I suppose the days being so extremely hot, and the feed so dry that there
+is little nourishment in it, is the cause of this, as they were horses
+that had been out with me on my last year's journey, and had suffered
+from want of water a longer time than on this occasion. I am nearly in a
+fix with a long journey before me, the horses unable to do more than two
+nights without water, and the water-bags losing half their contents in
+one day's journey. To make the Victoria through the country I have just
+passed into would be impossible. I must now endeavour to find a country
+to the northward and make the Roper. I am very vexed about the water-bags
+turning out so badly, as I was placing great dependence on them for
+carrying me through. I must try and push through the best way possible.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 12th May, Nash Spring, West Forest. Proceeded very slowly with
+the knocked-up horse to the Depot; he appears to be very ill, and is
+looking very bad this morning. Arrived there and found all right; they
+had been visited by the natives twice during my absence. They appeared to
+be very friendly, and were hugging Frew and King, for whom they seemed to
+have taken a great fancy; they were old, young, and children. Some pieces
+of white tape were given to them, which pleased them much. They still
+pointed to the west, as the place where the large water is, and made
+signs with a scoop to show that they have to dig for it in going through;
+which I am now almost sure is the case from what I saw of the country in
+my last journey in that direction. In upwards of fifty miles we did not
+see the least signs of a watercourse--nor could I discover any dip in the
+country; it has the same appearance all round; one cannot see more than
+half a mile before one, and in many places only a few yards. I have been
+deceived once or twice by what appeared to be a dip in the country, but
+it turned out to be only lower trees and scrub than what we were
+travelling through. With a small party I might make the Victoria from
+here, but there is every chance of losing the horses in doing so; and I
+should be in a sad predicament to be there without horses, and without
+the possibility of receiving supplies from the party at the Depot; I
+should have to perish there. Therefore, I consider it would be folly and
+madness to attempt it, and might be the cause of sacrificing the lives of
+both parties. Had the feed been green, or had it any substance in it, I
+would have tried, but every blade of grass is parched and dried up as in
+the middle of summer, and the horses have not the strength nor endurance
+to undergo much privation, of which I have had a proof in the journey I
+have just taken. After resting a day or two to recover the horses, and
+get ourselves a little refreshed, I shall move the party up to King's
+Ponds, and try to push through wherever I can find an opening. Day very
+hot. Wind, south-east. A few clouds came up from that quarter after
+sundown.
+
+Tuesday, 13th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Resting ourselves and horses. Day
+again hot, with a few clouds round the horizon. The natives had again set
+fire to the country all around, which increases the heat. I wish it would
+come on to rain, and put out their fires, and fill the ponds, which are
+shrinking a great deal more than I expected. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
+
+Wednesday, 14th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. As I don't feel well enough
+to-day, I shall remain here, and start to-morrow morning. This morning,
+while Thring was collecting the horses, he came on a place where the
+natives had been encamped a day or two before, and there saw the remains
+of the bones of one of them that had apparently been burnt; this is
+another new feature in their customs. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 15th May, Depot, Howell Ponds. Started with the party across
+the plain to Frew's Water Hole, course 15 degrees east of north; found
+the plain burnt for ten miles. The fire has been so great that it has
+burned every blade of grass, and scorched all the trees to their very
+tops. I was very fortunate the other day in having escaped it; nothing
+could have lived in such a fire, and had we been caught in it we must
+have perished. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone, Latitude, 16 degrees 54
+minutes 7 seconds.
+
+Friday, 16th May, Frew's Water Hole. Started at fourteen minutes past
+eight o'clock a.m., course 345 degrees, for King's Chain of Ponds.
+Arrived at about half-past three o'clock p.m. In coming through, one of
+the horses separated from the rest and bolted off into the dense forest,
+tearing everything down before him. We got him in again, but with a
+broken saddle, and the top off one of the bags, which we afterwards
+recovered. Arrived at the ponds without any further accident. Wind,
+north-east. Very hot, and a few clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 38 minutes
+53 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 17th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Sent King and Thring to follow
+round the flat to see where the ponds go to. About noon they returned,
+and reported that the water loses itself in a flat, which is surrounded
+by thick forest and scrub. This certainly is a very pretty place, and a
+great pity it is not more extensive. It reminds me much of the park land
+found by Captain Sturt in 1845, where he had his second depot, named Fort
+Grey. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Sunday, 18th May, King's Chain of Ponds. In the afternoon the sky became
+cloudy, and at sundown was quite overcast; the day exceedingly hot, and
+the wind nearly calm. The clouds came from the north-west, and the little
+wind there is from the south-east.
+
+Monday, 19th May, King's Chain of Ponds. As the sky is overcast with
+clouds, so that I cannot see the sun, and as it is nearly impossible to
+keep a straight course in such thick country without it, I shall remain
+here to-day, and if it should break up I shall endeavour to take a lunar
+observation. At 9 o'clock a.m. it cleared up, which enabled me to take
+one. The remainder of the day very hot. Wind variable, with clouds from
+every direction; towards sundown it again settled in the south-east, and
+all the clouds disappeared without any rain falling.
+
+Tuesday, 20th May, King's Chain of Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge
+of the party, I started with Thring, King, and Auld, at half-past nine
+a.m., on a northern course; at one o'clock p.m. changed to 65 degrees, to
+what appeared to be a bare hill. At a little more than a mile struck a
+small watercourse running towards the north; followed it, and at about
+two miles and a half came on some ponds of water, but not so large as
+those at our depot; at present they are not more than three feet and a
+half deep. Examined around the wooded plain to see if there was any
+larger body of water, but could see none. This plain is covered with
+small gums, having a dark bluish-green leaf with a grey-coloured bark;
+there are also a few white ones around the ponds of water, which abound
+with grass. Before reaching the plain we crossed what seemed to be
+elevated sandy table land, extending about nine miles, covered with
+spinifex and dark-coloured gum-trees; we also passed two or three narrow
+belts of tall mulga and hedge-trees which grow on the stony rises, about
+twenty feet high. These ponds I name Auld's Ponds, in token of my
+approbation of his conduct. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 16 degrees 28
+minutes 16 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 21st May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Started at twenty minutes
+past eight o'clock a.m., course north. The morning was so thick, with a
+heavy fog, that I did not get a start till late. At three miles I found
+another chain of ponds, but not so large; these I name McGorrerey Ponds.
+Proceeded on the same course and passed through some thick belts of
+hedge-tree and scrub; the country then opened and became splendidly
+grassed, with gums and other trees. We also saw, for the first time, a
+new gum-tree, having a large broad dark-green leaf, and the bark of a
+nankeen colour, which gave a very pretty effect to the country. At
+seventeen miles, not finding any water, and having passed five deep holes
+surrounded with ironstone conglomerate rock similar to Frew's Water Hole,
+but without any water in them, and to all appearance the dip of the
+country being to the north-east, I have changed my course to that
+direction, again travelling over a splendidly grassed country for ten
+miles, occasionally meeting with low stony rises of ironstone and gravel,
+at the foot of which were some more deep holes without water. In the last
+three miles we had to get through a few patches of scrub; the grass is
+all very dry. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time. At
+sundown camped without water. Day very hot. Wind variable, with a few
+clouds. Latitude, 16 degrees 8 minutes 39 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 22nd May, Fine Grass Country. Returned to McGorrerey Ponds. Day
+very hot, and the horses much distressed for want of water; they have the
+appearance of being half-starved for a month, and have taken an immense
+quantity of water, having gone to it about four or five times in an hour.
+As I am not satisfied that these ponds cease here, I shall try again
+to-morrow a little more to the east. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 23rd May, McGorrerey Ponds. Gave the horses a little time to feed
+after daylight in consequence of their having been tethered during the
+night; the country is so thickly wooded that I dare not trust them in
+hobbles the whole night, as, if they were lost sight of there would be
+great difficulty in finding them here. There is still the appearance of a
+small creek, which I shall follow until it runs out or trends too much to
+the east. Started at half-past eight o'clock a.m., course 20 degrees east
+of north, following the small creek about two miles; it seems to be
+getting larger, with occasionally a little water in it. We have also
+seen, on both sides of us, ponds with water surrounded by gum-trees;
+these ponds, when full, must retain water for a long time. We have also
+seen a new tree growing on the banks of the creek, with a large straight
+barrel, dark smooth bark, with bunches of bright yellow flowers and
+palmated leaves. At a mile and a half further the creek is improving
+wonderfully. We have now passed some fine holes of water, which will last
+at least three months; at five miles the water is becoming more plentiful
+and the creek broader and deeper, but twisting and turning about very
+much, sometimes running east and then turning to the west and all other
+points of the compass. Having seen what I consider to be permanent water,
+I shall now run a straight course, 20 degrees east of north, and strike
+it occasionally to see if the water continues. I have named these Daly
+Waters, in honour of his Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. Within a
+hundred yards the banks are thickly wooded with tall mulga and lancewood
+scrub; but to the east is open gum forest, splendidly grassed. Proceeded,
+occasionally touching the creek, and always found fine reaches of water,
+which continued a considerable way. At thirteen miles they become smaller
+and wider apart; at fifteen miles the creek seems to be trending more to
+the eastward, its bed is now conglomerate ironstone, and, as this appears
+to be about the last water, I shall give the horses a drink and follow it
+as far as it goes. In a short distance it has become quite dry, with a
+deep broad course upwards of twenty yards wide. At seventeen miles it
+separated into two channels, and at a quarter of a mile the two channels
+emptied themselves into a large boggy swamp, with no surface water. I
+examined the swamp, but could see no outlet. The country round about is
+thickly timbered with gum and other trees. Returned to the last water and
+camped. I shall return to the Depot and bring the party up here. Wind,
+south-east; a few clouds at sunset.
+
+Saturday, 24th May, Chain of Ponds, Large Creek. Followed my tracks back
+to Auld's Chain of Ponds, and had difficulty in doing so, the ground
+being so hard that the hoofs of the horses scarcely left any impression
+on it. This would be a fearful country for any one to be lost in, as
+there is nothing to guide them, and one cannot see more than three
+hundred yards around, the gum-trees are so thick, and the small belts of
+lancewood make it very deceptive. Should any one be so unfortunate as to
+be lost, it would be quite impossible to find them again; it would be
+imprudent to search for them, for by so doing the searchers would run the
+risk of being lost also. Arrived at Auld's Ponds and camped. Wind,
+south-east. A few clouds.
+
+Sun day, 25th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded to the Depot, where I
+arrived in the afternoon and found all well. No natives have been near
+them, although some of their smoke has been seen at a short distance from
+the Depot. Yesterday we hoisted the Union Jack in honour of her Most
+Gracious Majesty's birthday, that being the only thing we had to
+commemorate this happy event, with our best wishes for her long and happy
+reign. Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 26th May, Chain of Ponds. Removed the party on to Auld's Chain of
+Ponds.
+
+Tuesday, 27th May, Auld's Chain of Ponds. Proceeded with the party to the
+fourth chain of ponds and creek. This water has every appearance of being
+permanent, and I hope I may fall in with such another in the next degree
+of latitude. It may be from this that the Wickham receives a supply of
+water when this overflows. Wind, south-west. Latitude, 16 degrees 14
+minutes 31 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 28th May, Daly Waters, Fourth Chain of Ponds and Creeks. Sent
+Thring and King to round the swamp into which this creek flows, to see if
+there is any outlet to the eastward of this within two miles. There are
+other ponds and a creek, which also empties itself into a swamp a little
+to the eastward of the one into which this one empties itself. In the
+afternoon they returned, having found a small watercourse forming the
+north-west side of the swamp; followed it, running nearly 10 degrees east
+of north. In about one mile and a half they came upon a large swamp
+covered with water, but shallow. They then proceeded seven miles on a
+north-east course; then meeting with some white-barked gum-trees,
+appearing to run to the north-west, followed them for three miles,
+crossing a gum and grass plain. Observing some native smoke to
+north-east, they returned. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 29th May, Daly Waters. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+camp, at half-past seven o'clock proceeded with Thring, Auld, and Frew
+down the creek to examine the swamp found yesterday. It is about 30
+degrees east of north, about three miles from the Depot at Daly Waters.
+The water does not appear to be deep, but covers a large area; there were
+a few pelicans and other water-birds on it. From this we proceeded, on a
+course 20 degrees east of north, to search the flat where Thring and King
+saw the smoke yesterday. At eighteen miles from Daly Waters, having
+crossed the gum plain without meeting with any water, and being on
+apparently higher ground than the plain, I changed my course to 90
+degrees east of north. At two miles and a half again crossed the plain,
+and got upon low rising ground of ironstone and gravel, but still no
+water. Changed to former bearing of 20 degrees east of north, and at
+seven miles came upon a dry swamp, covered with long blue grass and deep
+holes, but still no water could we find. Proceeded another mile, and
+finding I was getting on rising ground, and the horses having done a long
+and heavy day's journey, camped without water. After leaving the swamp
+with the water (which was very boggy all round it), the country became
+similar to that of Sturt Plains surrounding Newcastle Water, being so
+full of deep holes that we were in danger of getting our necks broken,
+and also the horses' legs. The soil is good, and completely covered with
+grass and stunted gum-trees. In rainy weather it seems to be covered with
+water. There is no watercourse, or any appearance of which way the water
+flows. A number of various kinds of birds were about. Wind variable, but
+mostly from south-west. Latitude, 15 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.
+
+Friday, 30th May, North-north-east of Blue-Grass Swamp. Wishing to see a
+little more of the country further on and to find where the birds get
+their water, I proceeded with Thring, leaving the other two behind with
+the horses, three miles and a half on the same course, following their
+flight. In half a mile came again upon the stunted gum plain, splendidly
+grassed to above the horses' knees. Can find no water, although the birds
+are still round about us. The same description of country continues from
+the swamp with the water to beyond this, consisting of small undulations
+of gravel and ironstone. Retraced my steps to where I had left the other
+two, and proceeded towards the Depot at nine miles. The country was in a
+blaze of fire to the east of us. I am very thankful there was scarcely a
+breath of wind, which enabled us to pass within a quarter of a mile of
+it: had there been a strong wind we should have been in great danger, the
+grass being so long and thick. Returned to the Depot after six p.m.,
+being all very tired with the shaking we have had the last two days by
+the horses falling into the holes nearly every step, and they also are
+nearly exhausted; twelve hours in the saddle over such a country is no
+easy task. It was my intention to have come back more to the east, but
+having seen the smoke I saw we should be in the middle of the fire, and
+so changed my intention. Wind, south-west. Very hot.
+
+Saturday, 31st May, Daly Waters. As there are no appearances of rain, the
+weather very hot, and I have a good deal of work in plans, etc. to bring
+up, I shall remain here until Monday. I feel this heavy work much more
+than I did the journey of last year; so much of it is beginning to tell
+upon me. I feel my capability of endurance beginning to give way. There
+are a number of small fish in this water, from three to five inches long,
+something resembling a perch; the party are catching them with hooks;
+they are a great relish to us, who have lived so long upon dry meat. Any
+change is very agreeable. Wind variable.
+
+Sunday, 1st June, Daly Waters. The day has been as hot as if it were in
+the middle of summer. Surely we must get a change soon. Wind variable,
+with a few light clouds. Mr. Waterhouse has shot two new parrots.
+
+Monday, 2nd June, Daly Waters. Leaving the party in charge of Mr.
+Kekwick, I started at twenty minutes past seven (course north), with
+Thring, Auld, and Frew. Camped at 4.20. The whole day's journey has been
+through a splendid grass country, and open forest of gum-trees and other
+shrubs, some of them new to us. Here again we have also met with the
+bean-tree, the blossoms of a bright crimson, and at this season they seem
+to shed their leaves. The country passed over consisted mostly of
+undulations of ironstone and gravel, with a brown-coloured rock
+occasionally, between which were broad valleys of a light-coloured soil,
+all cracked and having many deep holes, which, being hidden with the long
+grass, caused the horses to tumble into them, and made it very fatiguing
+both to them and us. I have been constantly in the hope all day of coming
+upon some water, but have been disappointed. After rain this country can
+be passed over with the greatest facility, for we have passed holes that
+will hold water for a long time. The dip of this country is now to the
+eastward. To-day I think I have been running along where the dip
+commences from the table land. It was my intention to have tried a
+journey to the north-west; but, from what I have seen of the country
+to-day, and on my other journeys to the north, as well as Mr. Gregory's
+description of it on the other side, I am led to believe that it would be
+hopeless to expect to find water there. To try it will only be losing
+time, and reducing the strength of my horses. I must now try on a
+north-east course towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. I do not wish to go
+east if I can help it; but I must go where the water leads me. During the
+day's journey we passed through three narrow belts of hedge-tree scrub,
+which was very thick. There does not seem to be so much of that as we get
+to the north, neither is there so much of the tall mulga. We have not
+seen a drop of water since we left the camp. Camped without it. Wind,
+south. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 50 minutes 20 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 3rd June, Gum Forest. Fine country. I sent Thring on three miles
+to see if there was any change, there being a number of birds about that
+frequent the place where water is. I think there may still be a chance of
+falling in with some. He has returned and can see none. Country the same
+as that travelled over yesterday. Returned to the Depot. Arrived a little
+before sundown, and found all well. Wind light; south. Day again very
+hot.
+
+Wednesday, 4th June, Daly Waters. Preparing for a start to-morrow to the
+north-east. I shall take the water-bags; they may retain as much as will
+suffice for a drink night and morning for four horses. I shall proceed to
+the blue-grass swamp that I found in my last north-north-east course,
+trace that down as far as it goes, and, should there be no water, shall
+strike for the sources of the Wickham River. Wind, south-south-east.
+
+Thursday, 5th June, Daly Waters. Started at a quarter to eight with
+Thring and Auld, taking all the water-bags full, also King and Billiatt
+to take back the horses that carry the water. I have chosen King for this
+purpose, as being the next best bushman to Thring, and one in whom I can
+place the greatest dependence to execute any charge I may give him with
+care and faithfulness. At four o'clock arrived at the blue-grass swamp.
+Changed my course to 70 degrees east of north, following down the middle
+of it, which contains a great number of large deep holes in which water
+has been, but are now quite dry. Followed it until it spread itself over
+the plain, causing a great number of deep cracks and holes completely
+covered with grass, gums, and other trees, too thick to get an easy
+passage through. At sundown camped on the plain without water. A few
+hours before sundown the sky had a very peculiar appearance to the
+eastward, as if a black fog were rising, or smoke from an immense fire at
+a long distance off, but it was too extensive for that. At sundown it
+assumed a more distinct aspect in the shape of black clouds coming from
+that direction. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 6th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Sent King and Billiatt back
+with the horses, while I proceeded with the other two on a course 70
+degrees east of north. At a mile and a half came suddenly upon a scrubby
+ironstone rise about twenty feet high. After passing over a rotten plain,
+full of holes and covered with grass and stunted gum-trees, proceeded to
+the top, from which we had a good view of the surrounding country--to all
+appearance one of the blackest and most dismal views a man ever beheld;
+even the splendid grass country I had been coming through has the same
+appearance. The cause of it is the trees being so thick, and some of them
+of a very dark colour, that nothing but their tops can be seen, which
+gives it the appearance of being a dense scrub. To the west there is an
+appearance of a scrubby rise--the one on which I have been on my other
+journeys to the north. No hills visible; all appears to be a level
+country. Proceeded down the gradual slope, crossing two other lower
+ironstone undulations, meeting occasionally with small rotten plains with
+holes, and covered with grass. At five miles the ground became firmer; at
+seven miles met with what seemed to be a water-shed. After a long search
+found that the flow of the water was to the west of north; traced it a
+short distance to the south-east and found a small shallow pool of water
+and gave our horses a drink; and wishing to take advantage of anything
+that may take me to the north-west, I turned and traced it down; passed
+three ponds with some water in them, and at three miles came upon a fine
+large one two and a half feet deep; followed it still on, but was
+disappointed on finding it terminate in a dry swamp, all cracked and full
+of holes; circled round it to see if the creek took up again, but could
+see no appearance of any. As this last pond will do for the party, I will
+return and bring them up, for there is a slight appearance of rain, and I
+wish to get them on as far as possible before the winter rain comes on.
+Returned to our last night's camp, where we arrived at sundown. Wind,
+south-east, with few clouds.
+
+Saturday, 7th June, Plain East of Blue Swamp. Returned to the Depot;
+found all well. Clouds all gone, but the wind blowing strong from the
+south-east.
+
+Sunday, 8th June, Daly Waters. Strong winds still from south-east, and
+sometimes from the south. Day very hot.
+
+Monday, 9th June, Daly Waters. Last night, a little after sundown, Mr.
+Waterhouse was seized with a violent pain in the stomach, which was
+followed by a severe sickness, and continued throughout the night; this
+morning he is a little better. I think it was caused by eating some
+boiled gum which had been obtained from the nut-tree Mr. Kekwick
+discovered last year. When boiled it very much resembles tapioca, and has
+much the same taste. I also ate some of it yesterday, which occasioned a
+severe pain in the stomach, but soon went off. Some of the others also
+felt a little affected by it, but none so bad as Mr. Waterhouse; on
+others it had no effect whatever, and they still continue to eat it. Mr.
+Waterhouse looks so ill that I think it desirable not to move the party
+to-day, and trust by to-morrow he will be quite well. Light wind from the
+south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Tuesday, 10th June, Daly Waters. As Mr. Waterhouse is better, I shall
+move the party to-day. Started at half-past eight a.m., following my
+former tracks. At half-past four p.m. camped at the blue-grass swamp;
+twenty-six miles without water. The horses will require to be watched
+during the night. Wind, south-east. Day very hot. Latitude, 15 degrees 56
+minutes 31 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 11th June, Blue-Grass Swamp. Started at seven o'clock; course,
+70 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed the ironstone rise, and
+at eleven miles changed to north, to cut the chain of ponds, which I have
+named Purdie Ponds, in honour of Dr. Purdie, of Edinburgh, M.D. At one
+mile and three quarters, on the last course, camped on the largest pond.
+The country that we have gone over, although there are a number of holes
+and cracks in it, is really of the best description, covered with grass
+up to the horses' bodies. We have passed several new trees and shrubs.
+The bean-tree is becoming more numerous here. At this season and in this
+latitude it sheds its leaves; the flower is in full bloom without them.
+The course of the ironstone rise seems to be north and south. Wind,
+south-east. Weather a little cooler, but clouds all gone. Latitude, 15
+degrees 52 minutes 58 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 12th June, Purdie Ponds. Preparing for another start to-morrow
+with the water-bags. It takes two men nearly half a day to fill them. The
+orifices for filling them are a great deal too small; they ought to be at
+least two inches in diameter. The American cloth with which they are
+lined is useless in making them watertight, and is a great annoyance in
+emptying them, for the water gets between it and the leather. It takes a
+long time to draw through again, and does not answer the purpose it was
+intended for. A piece of calico would have done far better. It is very
+vexing to bring things so far, and, when required, to find them nearly
+useless. Wind, south-east. Cloudy. Nights cold, but the day hot.
+
+Friday, 13th June, Purdie Ponds. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in charge of the
+party, started at fifteen minutes past eight with Thring and Auld, also
+with King and Billiatt, who were to bring back the horses carrying the
+water-bags. Proceeded on a north course, and at seven miles crossed what
+seemed to be a water-shed, seemingly running to the west of north. Halted
+the party, and sent Thring a short distance to see if the flow was in
+that direction. In a quarter of an hour he returned and informed me that
+it was, but only very slightly so. Changed to north-north-west to follow
+it. It gradually assumed the appearance of a small creek. At two miles
+came upon three small pools of water. I now resolve to follow it down and
+see where it goes to. I should think there must be more water further on.
+Its course is west of north. Continued to follow it down, winding and
+twisting about very much to almost every point of the compass. At seven
+miles from the pools found a little more water, but not a drop between.
+Allowed the horses to drink what there was, and proceeded down it. I sent
+Thring to follow it on one side, while I and the rest of the party kept
+on the other. By this we were enabled to cut off the bends and see all
+the creeks, so that no water could escape us. Twice it became very small,
+and I was afraid we were going to lose it altogether, but it commenced
+again and became a fine creek. Not a drop of water. At a quarter to five
+camped without it. Stony rises are now commencing, which are covered with
+gum and other trees, also a low scrub. They are very rough and running
+nearly west and south. The one on the west is a continuation of the one I
+crossed in coming to Purdie Ponds. The general flow of the creek is
+north. Some of the new trees are growing very large on its banks. The
+cabbage-tree is growing here also. This is the first time I have met with
+it, sometimes growing to the height of fifteen feet. All along the banks
+of the creek, and apparently for some distance back, is covered with an
+abundance of grass, but all dried up. In some places both horse and rider
+were completely hidden by it. Wind, south-east--few clouds. Latitude, 15
+degrees 30 minutes 27 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 14th June, River Strangways. Named after the Honourable H.B.
+Templar Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands, South Australia, and
+who, since his taking office, has done all in his power to promote
+exploration of the interior. Sent King and Billiatt back with the horses
+to the camp at Purdie Ponds, whilst I proceed with the further
+examination of the creek. I find it now running to the east of north, and
+the stony rises are closing upon it at two miles and a half. They begin
+to assume the shape of hills, which causes the travelling to be rather
+rough. At three miles and a half the hills run close to the creek, and
+are precipitous; the bed is very rough and stony--so much so that I could
+not take the horses down it. Ascended a hill near the creek to see what
+it and the country ahead was like; the hills being so rough that I could
+not get the horses close enough to see if there was any water, dismounted
+and scrambled to the top of the precipices; was delighted to see below me
+a large hole of water. Sent the horses across a gully to another hill
+still higher, while I descended into the creek; found the bed very rough,
+having large masses of sandstone and ironstone, which rendered it
+impassable for the horses. Found the water to be deep and beautifully
+clear; proceeded down a little further, and saw another large one. The
+hills close to the creek are very precipitous, and we shall have
+difficulty in getting the horses down to water; the hills, where they
+come close to the creek, are covered with spinifex. I shall therefore
+require to camp the party at the mouth of the gorge, where there is
+plenty of feed. The hill I had sent the horses to was so rocky they were
+unable to cross it, and there being higher hills still on ahead, I have
+left the horses with Auld, and, taking Thring with me, have walked to the
+top of it to see what course the creek was taking, but they are all so
+much of the same height and appearance that I can scarcely tell in which
+direction it runs. There is an appearance of a large creek coming in from
+the westward, and higher hills towards the north. I shall return and send
+the party on to this permanent water, and try to find an easy road over
+the ranges for them. I would have gone on to-day, but my horses are
+without shoes, and some of them are already lame, and the shoes I brought
+with me are nearly all exhausted; we have not been using any since
+shortly after leaving South Australia. Returned to our last night's camp,
+where we had left the canvas tank with some water that the horses did not
+drink in the morning; gave them what remained, and proceeded up the
+creeks to the last water we saw yesterday, where we arrived at sundown
+and camped. Wind, south.
+
+Sunday, 15th June, River Strangways. Returned to the Depot at Purdie
+Ponds; found all well. Wind, south-east. Cool.
+
+Monday, 16th June, Purdie Ponds. It was late before the horses could be
+found. Proceeded to the first pool of water in the River Strangways,
+distance about ten miles, and camped. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 17th June, River Strangways. Proceeded down the creek to the
+gorge and camped; day very hot. We had some difficulty in finding a way
+down for the horses to drink, it being so very rough and stony, but at
+last succeeded. On the west side there is a layer of rocks on the top of
+the hard sandstone, black and rugged, resembling lava; spinifex close to
+the creek. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 18th June, Gorge, River Strangways. I shall require to have
+some of the horses shod for further exploration, and shall therefore
+remain here to-day to get that done. I sent Thring and King a little way
+down the creek to see what the country is, and if there is any more
+water. They went about nine miles, but could see no more. In some places
+the country is sandy, and in others stony and grassy. Mr. Kekwick has
+discovered four new trees that we have not seen before, and several new
+shrubs. Some of the party succeeded in catching a few fine large fish,
+some of them weighing two pounds and a half. Some were of the perch
+family, and others resembled rock cod, with three remarkable black spots
+on each side of their bodies. There are also some small ones resembling
+the gold fish, and other small ones with black stripes on their sides,
+resembling pilot fish. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 15 degrees 30 minutes
+3 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 19th June, Gorge, River Strangways. Leaving Mr. Kekwick in
+charge of the party, started with Thring, Auld, and King, to look for
+water. No rain seems to have fallen here for a long time back; the grass
+is quite dry and withered. At 8.15 proceeded down the river, and, to
+avoid the hills, I went about a mile to the west, and found a very
+passable road; for about two miles we had sandy soil and spinifex mixed
+with grass, also a few stony rises of lime and sandstone. The country
+after that again became excellently grassed, the soil light and a little
+sandy. No water in the bed, which appears to have a very rapid fall; its
+general course is about north-north-east. At twelve miles, seeing a stony
+hill of considerable elevation, I left the bed, and went towards it. At
+the base of it was a deep creek; I was pleased to see a fine supply of
+water in it. I immediately sent Thring back to guide the party up here
+to-morrow, whilst I with the two others proceeded with the examination of
+the river further down. After following it for about ten miles through a
+beautifully grassed country, passing occasionally sandstone rises, with
+apparently scrub on their tops, camped at the base of one of them.
+
+Friday, 20th June, First Camp North of Gorge. Returned to the other
+water, and at noon met the party and brought them on to this water. We
+have passed a few stringy-bark trees. In the bed of the river there is
+growing some very large and tall timber, having a dark-coloured bark, the
+leaf jointed the same as the shea-oak, but has not the acid taste: the
+horses eat it. There are also some very fine melaleuca-trees, which here
+seem to displace the gums in the river. We have also passed some more new
+trees and shrubs. Frew, in looking about the banks, found a large creeper
+with a yellow blossom, and having a large bean pod growing on it. I shall
+endeavour to get some of the seed as we go on to-morrow. I shall now move
+on with the whole party, and I trust to find water in the river as long
+as I follow it; its banks are getting much deeper and broader, and likely
+to retain water; it is dreadfully slow work to keep searching for water.
+Before this I could not do otherwise, in consequence of the season being
+so very dry. Since the commencement of the journey the only rain that we
+have had to have any effect upon the creeks was at Mr. Levi's station,
+Mount Margaret. Since then we have had only two or three showers, which
+have had no effect upon the creeks. Light winds, south-east. Latitude, 15
+degrees 15 minutes 23 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 21st June, First Camp North of Gorge. It was late before we
+could get a start, in consequence of our not being able to find two of
+the horses which separated from the rest during the night. Started,
+following the river down; it frequently separating into two or three
+channels, and again joining. Numerous small watercourses are coming in on
+both sides, from east and west; it winds about a great deal--its general
+course to-day for nine miles has been nearly north-north-east. We passed
+a number of large lagoons, nearly dry, close to the stony hills: when
+full they must retain water for a long time. There is very little water
+in the main channel. At nine miles I found a large and excellent pool of
+water in one of the side creeks; it will last some time. It being now
+afternoon, and there being a nice open plain for the horses, I have
+camped. The river is now running through stony hills, which are very
+rough, composed of hard sandstone mixed with veins of quartz, some of
+which are very hard, much resembling marble with crystalline grains in
+it. We are now passing a number of stringy bark along with gum and other
+trees, Mr. Kekwick still finding new shrubs. After we had camped, taking
+Thring with me, I ascended a hill a little way from the camp, but was
+disappointed in not having an extensive view. To the north, which is now
+apparently the course of the river, there seems to be an opening in the
+range of stony hills. The dip of the country seems to be that way. At 33
+degrees east of north from the camp, about eight miles distant, there is
+a high wooded tent-hill on the range; this I have named Mount Muller,
+after my friend the well-known botanist of Victoria. All round about are
+rough stony hills with grassy valleys between, having spinifex growing on
+their sides and tops. The valley through which the main channel flows is
+good soil, and covered with grass from two to four feet high. Towards the
+north-west the hills appear to be very rugged. Wind south-east, with a
+few clouds. Latitude, 15 degrees 10 minutes 40 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 22nd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. A few heavy clouds about.
+We are now in the country discovered by Mr. Gregory. There is a great
+deal of very good timber in the valley, which is getting larger and
+improving as we advance. It is still very thick--so much so, that the
+hills cannot be seen until quite close to them. Wind variable. Latitude,
+15 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Monday, 23rd June, Rock Camp, River Strangways. This morning the sky is
+overcast with light clouds coming from the south-east. Started at eight
+o'clock, still following the river, which winds about very much; its
+general course 10 degrees east of north. At nine miles the channel became
+much smaller, and shortly afterwards separated into numerous small ones,
+and was apparently lost to me. I continued a north course, and at twelve
+miles struck a creek coming from the south-east; at two miles from this
+creek found another large one coming from the south-west, with shea-oak
+in it, which makes me suppose it is the River Strangways, and that it
+formed again and joined this one. At the junction were numerous recent
+fires of the natives; there must have been a great many of them, for
+their fires covered the ground, also shells of the mussel which they had
+been eating. Searched for water, and found a little, but not sufficient
+for my horses, and too difficult to approach; the course of the river is
+still to the north. One mile and a half from the junction found enough
+water that will do for me at night. As there seems to be so little water,
+and this day being exceedingly hot and oppressive, I have camped. The
+country travelled over to-day has been of the same description,
+completely covered with long grass; the soil rich, and a great many of
+the cabbage-tree growing about it. Wind variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 58
+minutes 55 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 24th June, Mussel Camp, River Strangways. With the sun there
+came up a very thick and heavy fog which continued for about two hours;
+it then cleared off and the day became exceedingly hot. The river, after
+rounding the hills (where we were camped), ran nearly east for three
+miles, meeting there a stony hill which again throws it into a northerly
+course. I ascended the hill, but could see nothing distinctly, the fog
+being so thick. Descended and pursued the bed, which separated frequently
+into many channels, and at ten miles it spread into a large area, and its
+courses became small with no water in them. The grass above our heads was
+so high and thick that the rear-party lost me and could not find the
+rocks; by cooeing I brought them to me again. Before I had heard them I
+had sent Thring back to pick up their tracks and bring them to the clear
+ground I was on with the rest of the party, but they arrived before he
+made up to them. The scrub is also very thick close to the river. Mr.
+Kekwick found cane growing in the bed, and also brought in a specimen of
+a new water-lily--a most beautiful thing it is; it is now in Mr.
+Waterhouse's collection. At twelve miles, finding some water, the horses
+being tired in crossing so many small creeks, and working through the
+scrub and long grass, I camped at the open ground. The country gone over
+to-day is again splendidly grassed in many places, especially near the
+river; it has very lately been burned by the natives. There are a great
+number of them running along the banks; the country now seems to be
+thickly inhabited. Towards the east and the north-east the country is in
+a blaze; there is so much grass the fire must be dreadful. I hope it will
+not come near us. The day has been most oppressively hot, with scarcely a
+breath of wind. Latitude, 14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 25th June, River Strangways. Two of the horses having
+separated from the others, and crossing the river, quite hidden in the
+long grass, it was late before they were found. Started at nine o'clock;
+course about 70 degrees east of north, following the channel. I expect,
+in two or three miles, to meet with the Roper. At three miles struck a
+large sheet of deep clear water, on which were a number of natives, with
+their lubras and children; they set up a fearful yelling and squalling,
+and ran off as fast as they could. Rounded the large sheet of water and
+proceeded along it. At a mile, three men were seen following; halted the
+party, and went up to them. One was a very old man, one middle-aged, the
+third a young, stout, well-made fellow; they seemed to be friendly. Tried
+to make them understand by signs that I wished to get across the river;
+they made signs, by pointing down the river, by placing both hands
+together, having the fingers closed, which led me to think I could get
+across further down. They made signs for us to be off, and that they were
+going back again. I complied with their request, and after bidding each
+other a friendly good-bye, we followed down the banks of the river, which
+I now find is the Roper. At seven miles tried to cross it, but found it
+to be impossible; it is now divided into a number of channels, very deep
+and full of running water. Proceeded further, and tried it at several
+places, but with the same result. At twelve miles, camped close to a
+steep rocky hill on the north side of the river. Searched all round for a
+crossing, but was unable to find one. To the eastward the country is all
+on fire. The banks of the river are thickly lined with cabbage-trees,
+also the cane, bamboo, and other shrubs. Two small turtle-shells were
+picked up by the party at the native camp. The country is still of the
+same fine description. We are now north of Mr. Gregory's tracks.
+Latitude, 14 degrees 5 minutes. Wind variable.
+
+Thursday, 26th June, Roper River. As I cannot find a crossing, I shall
+have to return to my last camp and try to cross there. Arrived and
+camped. Day again oppressively hot. Almost immediately on leaving our
+camp this morning I observed native tracks on ours close to it. They must
+have followed us up last night, although we saw nothing of them. They are
+not to be trusted: they will pretend the greatest friendship one moment
+and spear you the next. They have been following us to-day, but keeping
+on the other side of the river and setting fire to the grass as they go
+along. I wish it would rain and cause the grass to become green, so as to
+stop them burning, as well as to give me some fresh food for the horses,
+for they now begin to show the want of it very much; it is so dried up
+that there is little nourishment in it. Some of them are beginning to
+look very poor and are much troubled with worms. My journeys have been
+very short last week, in consequence of my being so weak from the effects
+of scurvy and a severe attack of dysentery, for I have scarcely been able
+to endure the motion of horseback for four hours at a time; but having
+lately obtained some native cucumbers, I find they are doing me a deal of
+good, and hope by next week to be all right again. Wind, south. Latitude,
+14 degrees 51 minutes 51 seconds.
+
+Friday, 27th June, West Roper River. Started on a course of 320 degrees,
+crossing the river, and at three miles and a half again struck the Roper,
+running. Followed it up, coming nearly from the west, but winding about
+very much, and having many branches, which makes it very difficult for me
+to get the turns correctly. It is a splendid river. We have passed many
+brooks and deep reaches of water some miles in length, and the country
+could not be better: it is really magnificent. At 2.30 I was informed
+that we were short of a horse. Sent Messrs. Kekwick and Thring back to
+see where he was left. We have had to cross so many boggy, nasty places,
+with deep water and thick scrub, that he must have been missed at one of
+these. The general course of the river to-day has been 280 degrees.
+Distance, fifteen miles. Messrs. Kekwick and Thring are returned. They
+found the horse bogged in a side creek. It was so thick with cabbage-tree
+that they passed in searching for him two or three times. They had great
+difficulty in getting him out, but at last succeeded, and arrived at the
+camp before dark. A short time before that, another horse got into a very
+deep and rapid channel of the river, the top of the banks projecting so
+much that he could not get out, and the gum-trees having fallen across
+both above and below him, he was completely fixed. We endeavoured to get
+him out, but it got so dark that we could not see him, and the rope
+breaking that we were pulling him out by, he got his head under water,
+and was drowned in a moment. We then found that the cause of the rope
+breaking was that he had got one of his hind feet entangled in a sunken
+tree. It being now so dark we can do no more to-night, and have left him
+in the water until daylight. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47
+minutes 26 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 28th June, Roper River. As I shall be short of meat, I remain
+here to-day to cut up the horse and dry him. The water of this river is
+most excellent; the soil is also of the first description; and the grass,
+although dry, most abundant, from two to five feet high. This is
+certainly the finest country I have seen in Australia. We passed three
+rocky hills yesterday, not high, but having grass up to their tops, round
+which the river winds at their base, forming large and long reaches of
+water. On the grassy plains it forms into different channels, and is
+thickly timbered with shea-oak, gum, cabbage-trees, and other trees and
+shrubs. Wind variable.
+
+Sunday, 29th June, Roper River. We are all enjoying a delightful change
+of fresh meat from dry. It is a great treat, and the horse eats
+remarkably well, although not quite so good as a bullock. At sundown the
+meat is not all quite dry, but I think we shall be able to preserve the
+greater part of it. The natives are still burning the grass round about
+us, but they have not made their appearance either yesterday or to-day.
+Wind variable.
+
+Monday, 30th June, Roper River. Started at 8.10, course west, following
+up the river, which winds about very much from north-west to south, and
+at last to south-east. When coming close to where the grass was on fire,
+finding a good ford, I crossed the party to the north-east side. At
+fifteen miles came upon a large reedy swamp through which the river
+seemed to flow, and again at twenty miles came upon the river running
+into the swamp, and coming from the north-north-west. Although travelling
+twenty miles we have not made more than ten miles in a straight line; the
+general course is west. The country is of the same excellent description.
+We have passed the stony rises on the north side of the river, which are
+covered with grass to their tops. After crossing the river I ascended
+another of the same kind. To the south are a few hills scattered over the
+grassy plains, with lines of dark-green trees between them, showing that
+they are creeks flowing into the river whose junctions we have been
+crossing to-day; the same to the south-west, and at west 20" south the
+distance appears level, with a single peak just visible. To the
+north-west seemingly stony hills; to the north the same; to the east I
+could see nothing, for the smoke conceals from me the country; it is all
+on fire. The river is still running very rapidly, and as this is a
+different branch from those previously discovered, I have named it the
+River Chambers, after my late lamented friend, James Chambers, Esquire,
+whose zeal in the cause of Australian exploration is already well known.
+A short time before sundown a number of natives were seen approaching the
+camp. We were immediately prepared for them. I sent Mr. Kekwick forward
+to see what their intentions were--friendly or hostile. I immediately
+followed. On reaching them they appeared quite friendly. There were three
+men, four lubras, and a number of children. One, an old man, presented a
+very singular appearance--his legs being about four feet long, and his
+entire height seven feet, and so remarkably thin that he appeared to be a
+perfect shadow. Mr. Kekwick having a fish-hook stuck in his hat, which
+immediately caught the tall old fellow's eye, he made signs of its use,
+and that he would like to possess it. I told Mr. Kekwick to give it to
+him, which seemed to please him much. After examining it he handed it
+over to a young man, seemingly his son, who was a fat, stout fellow, and
+who was laughing nearly all the time. The other was a middle-aged man of
+the ordinary height. The women were small, and very ugly. Wind,
+south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 47 minutes 24 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 1st July, Reedy Swamp, River Chambers. Before sunrise the
+natives again made their appearance, sixteen in number, with small
+spears. Sent Mr. Kekwick to see what they wanted. On his coming up to
+them they put two fingers in their mouths, signifying that they wanted
+more fish-hooks, but we had no more to spare. They remained looking at us
+until the horses were packed and started. After Thring and Frew had
+brought in the horses, they rode up to where they were. They (the
+natives) did not fancy being too near the horses, but having dismounted,
+it gave them confidence, and they returned again. Thring opened the lips
+of one of the horses, and showed them his teeth, the appearance of which
+did not suit their taste. Some of them thought the further off they were
+from such weapons the better, and ran off the moment they saw them.
+Others remained, but kept at a respectful distance. Thring pulled a
+handful of grass, and it amused them much to see the horses eating it.
+After starting they followed us for some miles, when Mr. Waterhouse,
+observing a new pigeon, shot it. They, not liking the report of the gun,
+went off, and we saw no more of them. Started at 8.20, following the
+river on a course 30 degrees east of north. After a mile it gradually
+came round to the south-east, and was a running stream in that direction.
+As that course would take me too much out of my road, I changed my
+bearing to north-west, to an opening between the hills. After passing a
+number of fine ponds, many of them with water in them, came upon a large
+creek, having long reaches of water in it, but not running. It winds
+about a great deal. Its general course to-day has been west-north-west.
+The reedy swamp must be a mass of springs, which causes the Roper to run
+with such velocity. A little after one o'clock camped. The journey to-day
+has been rough, having so many small creeks to cross, and the day being
+excessively hot, the horses seem fagged. They have been covered with
+sweat since shortly after starting until now, and as some of the drowned
+horse is not quite dry, I have halted earlier than I intended. The
+country gone over to-day is of the same kind, beautiful soil, covered
+with grass. We occasionally met with stony hills coming down to the
+creek, also well grassed and timbered to their tops. Wind west, with
+heavy clouds from the south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 41 minutes 39
+seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 2nd July, West-north-west of Reedy Swamp, River Chambers.
+Started 7.40, following the river up until ten o'clock. We kept nearly a
+north-west course: it then went off to the south-west; as that would take
+me too much out of my course, I kept the north-west course, crossing the
+saddle of broken hills, amongst which we have now got; and at twelve
+again met the river, now coming from the north through the hills,
+following it still, having plenty of water. At a very large water hole
+surprised some natives, who ran off at full speed when the rear of the
+party was passing their camp. One stout fellow came running up, armed
+with spears, and loaded with fish and bags filled with something to eat.
+Mr. Kekwick rode towards him. The native held up a green bough as a flag
+of truce, and patting his heart with his right hand, said something which
+could not be understood, and pointed in the direction we were going. We
+then bade him good-bye, and proceeded on our journey. At one o'clock the
+river suddenly turned to the east, coming from very rough hills of
+sandstone and other rocks. At one mile and a half on that course it was
+coming from the south of east, which will not do for me. Changed to the
+north, and got into some terrible rough stony hills with grassy valleys
+between, but not a drop of water. It being now after two o'clock, too
+late to encounter crossing the table land, I again changed my course to
+south-east for the Chambers, and at 5.3 camped at a large water hole at
+the foot of a stony rise lined with cabbage (palm) trees. The country
+although rough is well grassed to the top of the hills, with an abundance
+of permanent water in the river. I am sorry it is coming from the
+south-east, and have been in hopes it would carry me through this degree
+of latitude. To follow it further is only losing time; I shall therefore
+take to the hills to-morrow. Frew, on coming along, picked up a small
+turtle alive. Light wind from the south-east; heavy clouds from the
+south-west. Latitude, 14 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 3rd July, River Chambers. Started at 8.10 o'clock, north-west
+course. At one mile and a half again struck the river coming from the
+west-north-west; left it and followed its north-west course: and at
+another mile again came upon it with plenty of water. Saw four natives,
+who ran off the moment they saw us. Followed the river, the hill coming
+quite close to it, very steep and rocky, composed of a hard sandstone,
+and occasionally a little ironstone. At nine miles again left the river,
+finding it was coming too much from the eastward; crossed the saddle of
+the two spurs again; came upon a creek, which I think is the river; ran
+it up to the west for about a mile, but no appearance of water; left it,
+and ascended a very rough rugged hill. In the creek we have just left
+there is a deal of limestone. Crossed three more small spurs and small
+creeks, but not a drop of water. It being now afternoon, and wishing to
+see from what direction the river is coming, I changed to north-east, but
+found that I was still among the rough hills; I then went east for a
+short distance, and made the river, now quite dry, and having a sandy
+bed. Followed it up, but saw there was no hope of water; turned, and
+traced it down to try and find water. After following it for three miles,
+came upon a fine permanent hole of water, a short distance from where we
+left in the former part of the day. If it would only rain and put some
+water in the deep dry holes that are in the other creeks crossed to-day,
+I should then be enabled to steer a straight line for the Adelaide. It is
+very tedious and tiresome having to look for water every day. We have now
+reached to the top of one of the tributaries of the Chambers. This is
+apparently the last water. It seems to take its rise in a grassy plain to
+the east of this. The valley through which the creek flows is well
+grassed, but the sides and the tops of the hills are spinifex mixed with
+grass. All the small valleys are well grassed. Wind, south-east.
+Latitude, 14 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+Friday, 4th July, Last Water Hole in the Chambers. Started at 8.10,
+course north-west, following up the river to its sources. At four miles
+ascended a rise, which was very rough, composed of sandstone, ironstone,
+and limestone, with ironstone gravel on the top. Descended on the other
+side, and at about five miles came upon a nice running stream, but very
+rough and stony round about it. After crossing several stony rises, in
+which we had some difficulty in getting our horses over, arrived at a
+nice broad valley with a creek running through it, course north-west. At
+a mile it received a large tributary from the east of north, and the bed
+seems sandy; melaleuca and gum-trees in it; also the bean-tree. The
+valley is covered with grass from two to four feet high. There is a ridge
+of rough sandy stone hills, with occasional ironstone on each side, from
+the direction it was at first taken. I thought I was fortunate in meeting
+with one of the sources of the Alligator or Adelaide River. After
+following it for five miles, sometimes going west and south, it went
+through a stony gorge, and seemed to run to the south, which is a great
+disappointment. I ascended one of the hills to view the country, but
+could see very little, it being so thickly wooded. To the north is the
+appearance of a range running to the east and west that I must endeavour
+to cross to-morrow if I do not find another creek running to the
+north-west. There is one benefit I shall derive from following down this
+creek a day; it will enable me to round the very rough sandstone range
+that runs on the north side of the creek. It is so rough that I could not
+take the horses over it. Camped at the gorge of this creek, which I
+suppose, from the course it is now taking, to be another tributary of the
+Chambers. The gorge is impassable for horses. It has a very picturesque
+appearance; immense masses of rock--some thousands of tons in
+weight--which had fallen from the top of the cliff into the bed of the
+creek. Mr. Kekwick found a number of new plants, among them a fine
+climbing fern. Light winds, east. Plenty of permanent water in the creek.
+Latitude, 14 degrees 25 minutes 8 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 5th July, Gorge on another West Branch of the River Chambers.
+Started 8.15; course, 5 degrees west of north. After travelling two miles
+over stony rises we ascended a low table land with coarse grass and a
+little spinifex; at six miles came up to a high stony tent-hill, which I
+ascended and named Mount Shillinglaw. All round are stony hills and
+grassy valleys--dip of the country seemingly to the south. There is
+apparently a continuous range in the distance to the north-west, the
+Chambers range. Changed my course to 325 degrees, and at four miles
+struck another large branch coming from the north-east, and running
+apparently south--plenty of water in it. This I named the Waterhouse, in
+honour of Mr. H.W. Waterhouse, naturalist to the expedition. Some of the
+horses are become so lame on account of the stones they will not be able
+to travel another day. I have camped early to have them shod, for on
+Monday I intend taking a north-west course to strike the source of the
+Adelaide. The country on the last course is again of the very best
+description and well grassed. The hills are stony, but abound with grass;
+they are composed of sandstone, ironstone, and occasionally a little
+limestone; the trees are the same as those on the Roper. Wind,
+south-east. Latitude, 14 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 6th July, The Waterhouse River. Day again very hot. There is
+another branch a short distance off, which seems to come from the
+north-west; I shall follow it to-morrow if it continues the same course.
+I think these creeks we are now crossing must be the sources of the
+Adelaide flowing towards the dry river seen by Mr. Gregory running
+towards the north-west. Wind light; sky cloudy.
+
+Monday, 7th July, Waterhouse River. Started at 7.55; course, north-west.
+At four miles the creek was coming from the west, north-east, and east; I
+therefore left it, crossed two low stony rises, and again struck another
+creek coming from the north-east, with plenty of water; followed it for a
+short distance to the west, found it so boggy and the body of water so
+large that I could not get the party round the stony hills. Returned
+about half a mile, and crossed the stony rise, and again struck it. At
+eight miles came upon a number of springs coming from the stony rises.
+Ascended one of the rises, which are not high, and found myself on a
+sandy table land, which continued for six miles, having coarse grass and
+spinifex growing on it. Towards the last two miles it again became well
+grassed. The timber is stringy-bark, some splendid trees; amongst them
+gums and a number of pines, also very fine. The cabbage palm still
+growing in the creeks in great numbers, some of them very tall, with
+several branches on the top. The first eight miles was again over a
+splendid country, and the last three of the same description. A stony
+hill being in my course, I proceeded to the top of it, from which I had a
+good view of the country before me. This hill I named after Lieutenant
+Helpman. At 10 degrees south of west are two remarkable isolated table
+hills, Mount Levi and Mount Watts, beyond which is the Chambers range to
+the north-west; my view in other directions is obstructed by other hills,
+but to the west about one mile and a half is seemingly a creek, to which
+I shall go, and if there is water I shall camp. Proceeded and found it a
+fine creek with plenty of water; followed it about one mile to the
+north-west, when it became dry. There it seems to come from the south.
+There are a great number of cabbage palms on its banks. I hope it will
+soon come round to the north-west and continue on that course. Light
+winds, variable. Latitude, 14 degrees 9 minutes 31 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 8th July, Water Creek in Stony Rises. Started at 7.40 a.m.,
+course north-west; followed the creek a little way, but found it was
+running too much to the west of my course; left it and proceeded to the
+north-west, crossing some stony rises, now composed of granite and
+ironstone, with occasionally some hard sandstone. Crossing three small
+creeks running to the west, at six miles came upon a large one with broad
+and long sheets of permanent water coming from the north-north-east, and
+apparently running to the south-west. This I have named the Fanny, in
+honour of Miss Fanny Chambers, eldest daughter of John Chambers, Esquire.
+In a small tree on this creek the skull of a very young alligator was
+found by Mr. Auld. The trees in this creek are melaleuca and gum, with
+some others. Proceeded across the creek, still going north-west; ascended
+two stony rises, and got upon low table land with spinifex and grass,
+passing two stony hills, one on each side of my course. At eighteen miles
+struck the head of a small creek flowing nearly on my course; followed it
+down in search of water, now through a basaltic country. At two miles
+came upon another large creek, having a running stream to the south of
+west, and coming from the north of east. Timber, melaleuca, palm, and
+gum, with some of other descriptions. This I have named the Katherine, in
+honour of the second daughter of James Chambers, Esquire. The country
+gone over to-day, although there is a mile or two of light sandy soil, is
+good for pasturage purposes; in the valley it is of the finest
+description. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 58 minutes 30
+seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 9th July, The Katherine. Started at five minutes to eight
+o'clock, crossing the Katherine, and proceeded on a north-west course
+over a basaltic country, splendidly grassed. At five miles I ascended a
+high hill, which I named Mount Stow, but was disappointed in the view.
+West-north-west course, over a great number of rises thickly timbered
+with gum. At 20 degrees north of west is a high bluff point of the range;
+the country on that bearing does not seem to be so rough. No more visible
+but the range to the west and the hill between. Descended, and changed my
+course to the bluff point. At one mile and a half crossed a creek with
+water in it, coming from the north-east, and running to the south-west.
+At three miles further arrived at the bluff. The basaltic country has now
+suddenly changed to slate, limestone, sandstone, and a hard white stone.
+Crossed three stony rises, and got upon a white sandy rise, with large
+stringy-bark trees growing upon it; and there seemingly being a creek at
+the foot of it, from the number of green gums and palm-trees, I went down
+to it, and found it to be springy ground, now quite dry, although the
+grass was quite green. Proceeded on the westerly course, expecting to
+meet with a creek; found none, but large springs coming from sandy rises.
+Having found water at thirteen miles, and being so very unwell that I
+cannot proceed, I have been compelled to camp. There is an immense
+quantity of water coming from these springs; the soil round them is of
+the best deep black alluvial. About a mile to the west is a strong stream
+running to the south-west from them. I have called them Kekwick Springs,
+in honour of my chief officer. Wind light and variable. Latitude, 13
+degrees 54 minutes 12 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 10th July, Kekwick's Large Group of Springs. Started at eight
+o'clock; crossed the springs without getting any of the horses bogged.
+Proceeded on a north-west course, but at a mile and a half again came
+upon springs and running water; the ground too boggy to cross it. Changed
+to north; at three miles and a half on the course changed to north-west.
+Ascended some very rough stony hills, and got on the top of sandy table
+land thick with splendid stringy-bark, pines, and other trees and shrubs,
+amongst which, for the first time, we have seen the fan palm, some of
+them growing upwards of fifteen feet high; the bark on the stem is marked
+similar to a pineapple's; the leaf very much resembles a lady's fan set
+on a long handle, and, a short time after it is cut, closes in the same
+manner. At half-past one crossed the table land--breadth thteen miles.
+The view was beautiful. Standing on the edge of a precipice, we could see
+underneath, lower down, a deep creek thickly wooded running on our
+course; then the picturesque precipitous gorge in the table land; then
+the gorge in the distance; to the north-west were ranges of hills. The
+grass on the table land is coarse, mixed with a little spinifex; about
+half of it had been burnt by the natives some time ago. We had to search
+for a place to descend, and had great difficulty in doing so, but at last
+accomplished it without accident. The valley near the creek, which is a
+running stream, is very thickly wooded with tall stringy-bark, gums, and
+other kinds of palm-trees, which are very beautiful, the stem growing
+upwards of fifty feet high, the leaves from eight to ten feet in length,
+with a number of long smaller ones growing from each side, resembling an
+immense feather; a great number of these shooting out from the top of the
+high stems, and falling gracefully over, has a very pretty, light, and
+elegant appearance. Followed the creek for about two miles down this
+gorge, and camped on an open piece of ground. The top course of the table
+land is a layer of magnetic ironstone, which attracted my compass upwards
+of 20 degrees; underneath is a layer of red sandstone, and below that is
+an immense mass of white sandstone, which is very soft, and crumbling
+away with the action of the atmosphere. In the valley is growing an
+immense crop of grass, upwards of four feet high; the cabbage palm is
+still in the creek. We have seen a number of new shrubs and flowers. The
+course of the table land is north-north-west and south-south-east. The
+cliffs, from the camp in the valley, seem to be from two hundred and
+fifty to three hundred feet high. Beyond all doubt we are now on the
+Adelaide river. Light winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 44 minutes 14
+seconds.
+
+Friday, 11th July, Adelaide River, North-west Side, Table Land. The
+horses being close at hand, I got an early start at 7.20, course
+north-west. In a mile I got greatly bothered by the boggy ground, and
+numbers of springs coming from the table land, which I am obliged to
+round. At two miles got clear of them, and proceeded over a great number
+of stony rises, very steep; they are composed of conglomerate quartz,
+underneath which is a course of slates, the direction of which is
+north-west, and lying very nearly perpendicular, and also some courses of
+ironstone, and a sharp rectangular hard grey flint stone. My horses being
+nearly all without shoes, it has lamed a great many of them, and, having
+struck the river again at fifteen miles, I camped. They have had a very
+hard day's journey. The country is nearly all burnt throughout, but those
+portions which have escaped the fire are well grassed. I should think
+this is a likely place to find gold in, from the quantity of quartz, its
+colour, and having so lately passed a large basaltic and granite country;
+the conglomerate quartz being bedded in iron, and the slate
+perpendicular, are good signs. The stony rises are covered with
+stringy-bark, gum, and other trees, but not so tall and thick as on the
+table land and close to it, except in the creek, where it is very large;
+the melaleuca is also large. Since leaving the table land we have nearly
+lost the beautiful palms; there are still a few at this camp, but they
+are not growing so high; the cabbage palm is still in the creek and
+valleys. Light winds from south-east. Country burning all round.
+Latitude, 13 degrees 38 minutes 24 seconds. This branch I have named the
+Mary, in honour of Miss Mary Chambers.
+
+Saturday, 12th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.30; course,
+north-west. At one mile and a half came upon a running stream coming from
+the north-east; had great difficulty in getting the horses across, the
+banks being so boggy. One got fixed in it and was nearly drowned; in an
+hour succeeded in getting them all safe across. At six miles I ascended a
+high, tall, and stony hill; the view is not good, except to the westward.
+In that direction there is seemingly a high range in the far distance,
+appearing to run north and south; the highest point of the end of the
+range is west, to which the river seems to tend. My horse being so lame
+for the want of shoeing, I shall strike in for the river and follow it
+for another two miles, as it seems to run so much to the westward. I have
+resolved to use some of the horseshoes I have been saving to take me back
+over the stony country of South Australia. To enable McGorrerey to get
+them all shod on the front feet before Monday, I have camped. There is
+still a slaty range on each side of the river, with quartz hills close
+down to it; the timber the same as yesterday. The country has recently
+all been burned; but, judging from the small patches that have escaped,
+has been well grassed up to the pass of the hills. The valley and banks
+of the creeks are of beautiful alluvial soil. One new feature seen to-day
+is the growing of large clumps of bamboo on the banks of the river, from
+fifty to sixty feet in height and about six inches in diameter at the
+butt. I am now on one of the tributaries of the Adelaide River. There
+must have been a dreadful fire here a few days ago; it has destroyed
+everything before it, except the green trees, to the edge of the water.
+Slight winds, variable. Latitude, 13 degrees 35 minutes 58 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 13th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Shoeing horses. Wind blowing
+strong; variable from all points of the compass.
+
+Monday, 14th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. One of the horses cannot be
+found this morning, and he has been for some time very ill and weak, and
+no appearance of getting better. It was my intention to have left him. We
+have been all round the tracks forward and backward over the
+feeding-ground and can see nothing of him. I am afraid he has gone off to
+some place and died; I shall therefore waste no more time in looking for
+him. If he is alive I may have a chance of recovering him on my return.
+Late start, in consequence of so long looking for him. As I have now got
+all the horses shod on the front feet, I shall proceed on a north-west
+course through the stony rises, which are still quartz and slate,
+splendidly grassed, with gums and other trees and bushes not too thick to
+get through with ease. Crossed six small creeks, one with holes with
+water in them; the third one, a large creek, which I crossed at nine
+miles, I have named William Creek, after the second son of John Chambers,
+Esquire, of Adelaide; all running at right angles to my course.
+Immediately after crossing this last creek the country changed to
+granite; the rises are composed of immense blocks of it, with
+occasionally some quartz. The country has been all burned. The valleys
+between the granite rises are broad and of first-rate soil, many of them
+are quite green, caused by springs oozing from the granite rock. We have
+passed a number of trees resembling the iron-bark, also some like new
+ones, and many shrubs which Mr. Kekwick has found. Wind, south-east.
+Latitude, 13 degrees 29 minutes 25 seconds.
+
+Tuesday, 15th July, Billiatt Springs. I have named these springs in token
+of my approbation of Billiatt's thoughtful, generous, and unselfish
+conduct throughout the expedition. I started at 7.40 this morning, course
+north-west. Crossed granite and quartz rises, with broad valleys between,
+both splendidly grassed. At three miles crossed a small creek with water;
+at another mile the same creek again; one also to my line on the
+south-west side, and immediately went off to the south-west. At six miles
+the river came close to the line, and immediately went off to the west.
+Continued on my course through granite and quartz country, splendidly
+grassed, and timbered with stringy-bark and gums, pines, palms,
+nut-trees, and a wattle bush, which in some places was rather thick, but
+not at all difficult to get through. At ten miles again struck the river;
+it is now apparently running to the north. Changed to that course, but it
+soon left me. At three miles and a half on the north course struck
+another creek running from the range north-east; it has an abundance of
+water, and is rather boggy. King's horse fell with him in it, but did no
+further injury than giving him a wetting. A few of the other horses
+stumbled and rolled about in it for a short time, but we got them all
+across without accident. Changed to west of north; at half a mile reached
+a saddle between two hills, and ascended the one to the west, the river
+now running between ranges to the west; they seemed a good deal broken,
+with some high points to the north-west. There is a higher one, seemingly
+running north and south, with apparently a plain between about four miles
+broad, on which are four or five lines of dark trees; this leads me to
+suppose that the river is divided. The plain being very thickly timbered,
+I could not see distinctly which was the main channel. Descended, and
+proceeded on a north-west course. At one mile and a half struck the
+river, again running north; changed to that, and at two miles and a half
+camped. The country is now all burnt. I am obliged to stop where I can
+get feed for the horses. One of the channels comes close to the bank,
+east side, about six yards wide and two feet deep; bed sandy. The main
+channel must be in the middle of the plain. The hill I ascended to-day
+has been under the influence of fire; it is composed of quartz, and a
+hard dark-coloured stone; the quartz runs in veins throughout it, in
+places crystalline, and formed into spiral and many-sided figures; in
+places there is a crust of iron, as if it had been run between the
+stones, that is also crystalline. Wind, south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees
+17 minutes 22 seconds.
+
+Wednesday, 16th July, The Mary, Adelaide River. Started at 7.40, course
+north. The river runs off again to the north-west, and I have passed over
+an undulating country, all burnt, but the soil of the richest
+description. The rises are comprised of quartz and a hard white stone,
+with occasionally a little ironstone. At three miles crossed a creek with
+water holes. At five miles crossed another. At seven miles came close to
+a high hill--ascended it; at the foot it is composed of a hard slaty
+stone covered with a cake of iron; about the middle is quartz, and on the
+top conglomerated quartz. The view from south-west to north-west is
+extensive, but this not being the highest hill, the rest is hidden. To
+the west is a high hill, bluff at both ends, seemingly the last hill of
+the range; its course apparently north-west and south-east. At this bluff
+hill the range seems to cease, or drops into lower hills. A branch of the
+river lies between it and me, but there are still a number of stony hills
+before I can reach it. To the north-west and north there are high and
+stony hills. The river now seems to run to the west, on a bearing of 30
+degrees north of west. From twenty to twenty-five miles distant is
+another range, at the foot of which there is a blue stripe, apparently
+water, which I suppose to be the main stream of the Adelaide. Descended,
+as the country is too rough and stony to continue either to the north or
+north-west. I changed to 3 degrees north of west, crossed some stony
+hills and broad valleys with splendid alluvial soil, the hills grassed to
+the top. On that course struck the branch of the river. Still very thick
+with the same kind of timber already mentioned. Most of the bamboos are
+dead. I suppose the fire has been the cause of it. I again find it
+running to the north; I turn to that course. At three miles struck a
+large creek coming from the east with large sheets of water; had to run
+it up half a mile before I could get across it. Crossed it all right, and
+passed through a beautiful valley of green grass. After that, found that
+I was again on the stony rise, where every blade of grass had been burned
+off, and not knowing how far this may continue, I have turned off again
+for the creek, to give the horses the benefit of the valley. The timber
+is the same as yesterday in some places; the stringy-bark is much larger.
+The banks of the river, when we first came upon it to-day, were high and
+stony. The range to the east seems to cease about here. We are now
+crossing low undulations. I have seen a number of kangaroos to-day; they
+do not seem to be as large as those in the south. The valleys are
+composed of conglomerated ironstone underneath the soil. A large number
+of new birds seen to-day, some of them with splendid plumage. Wind,
+south-east. Latitude, 13 degrees 7 minutes 21 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 17th July, Tide Creek, Adelaide River. Started at eight
+o'clock, course north-west; passed over some stony hills, small creeks,
+and valleys well grassed. At three miles again met with the branch of the
+river, with bamboos and trees of the same description as before, a
+running stream, but not so rapid. At five miles, observing an open plain
+among the trees, and the river trending more to the westward, I changed
+my course to it, 15 degrees west of north; found it to be open plain, of
+rich alluvial soil in places; at times it seemed to be subject to
+inundation, I suppose the drainage from the range to the eastward, which
+is distant about four miles. I am pleased it has been burnt, but where it
+has not the grass is most abundant; where the water seems to remain it is
+rather coarse. The plains are studded with lines of green gum-trees, and
+the cabbage palms are numerous, which give them a very pretty park-like
+appearance. They continued for ten miles, when we made a small stony
+hill; we met with a large creek, with large holes of water in it, and
+supposing I had got upon the plain that ran to the sea-coast, and seeing
+those I had passed over so dry, camped; and having sent Thring to a rise
+to see where the river is, he returned, but can see nothing of it, but
+reports high hills to the north-west. I am glad of this, for it is not my
+intention to follow the river round if I can get water in other places,
+for it has already been well described south of this by Lieutenant
+Helpman when he came up in a boat, and I wish to see what the country is
+away from its banks. Wind south-east, with a few clouds from the north.
+For the last week the weather has been excellent, not too hot during the
+day, and cool and refreshing at night. The mosquitoes are very annoying,
+and the flies during the day are a perfect torment. This creek I have
+called Priscilla Creek. Latitude, 12 degrees 56 minutes 54 seconds.
+
+Friday, 18th July, Priscilla Creek. Started at 8.15, course north-west.
+Passed over grassy plains and stony rise; when, at three miles, seeing
+the termination of a range in a bluff point, changed my course to 310
+degrees. Proceeded, still crossing stony hills, consisting of ironstone,
+slate, and a hard white rock, which is broken into rectangular fragments;
+also over broad valleys, which are covered with grass that when green
+must have stood very high, but is now so dry that it breaks off before
+the horses. My horse being first, collects so much on his front legs that
+I have been obliged to stop, pull him back, and allow it to fall, so that
+he may step over it, go on, get another load, and do the same. At six
+miles and a half, after crossing a plain, crossed a deep bamboo creek;
+this I have named Ellen Creek. Proceeded over two other stony rises and
+valleys of the same description, and came upon extensive plains, well
+grassed, and of beautiful alluvial soil; crossing them towards the bluff
+point at fifteen miles, came upon the Adelaide between me and the bluff,
+which is about a mile further on; the river is about eighty yards wide,
+and so still that I could not see which way the current was. I suppose
+its being high tide was the cause of this. The banks are thickly lined
+with bamboo, very tall and stout, very steep, and twelve feet down to the
+water's edge; the water appeared to be of great depth, and entirely free
+from snags or fallen timber. The range on the opposite side of the river,
+for which I was directing my course, being the highest I have seen in
+this new country, I have named it after His Excellency the
+Governor-in-Chief of South Australia, Daly Range, and its highest peak to
+the north Mount Daly. Before reaching the river, at thirteen miles, we
+passed a high conspicuous tent hill, at right angle, north-east to our
+line; this I have named Mount Goyder, after the Surveyor-General of South
+Australia. Followed the river on a north course for about a mile, when I
+was stopped by a deep side creek of thick bamboo, with water; turned to
+the east, rounded the bamboo, but found myself in a boggy marsh, which I
+could not cross. This marsh is covered with fine grass, in black alluvial
+soil, in which is growing a new kind of lily, with a large broad
+heart-shaped leaf a foot or more across; the blossoms are six inches
+high, resemble a tulip in shape, and are of a deep brilliant rose colour;
+the seeds are contained in a vessel resembling the rose of a
+watering-pot, with the end of each egg-shaped seed showing from the
+holes, and the colour of this is a bright yellow. The marsh is studded
+with a great number of melaleuca-trees, tall and straight. As I could not
+cross, I had to round it, which took me a little more than an hour; when
+I got upon some low undulating rises, not far from Mount Goyder, composed
+of conglomerate ironstone and ironstone gravel, which seem to produce the
+springs which supply the marsh. Camped on the side of the marsh, to give
+the horses the benefit of the green grass, for some of them are still
+troubled with worms, and are very poor and miserable, and I have no
+medicine to give them, and there is not a blade of grass on the banks of
+the river--all has been burnt within the last four days. Native smoke in
+every direction. Wind south-east, with a few clouds. Latitude, 12 degrees
+49 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Saturday, 19th July, Lily Marsh, Adelaide River. Started at 9.10, course
+20 degrees east of north. At three miles crossed some stony rises and
+broad alluvial grassy valleys; at four miles met the river, had to go
+half a mile to the south-east to round it. Again changed to my first
+course; at seven miles and a half crossed a creek with water. The country
+to this is good, with occasionally a little ironstone and gravel, timber
+of stringy-bark, and a little low gum scrub. Having crossed this creek,
+we ascended a sandy table land with an open forest of stringy bark (good
+timber), palms, gums, other trees and bushes; it has been lately burnt,
+but the roots of the grass abound. This continued for about three miles.
+There is a small stony range of hills to the west, which at the end of
+the three miles dropped into a grassy plain of a beautiful black alluvial
+soil, covered with lines and groves of the cabbage palm trees, which give
+it a very picturesque appearance; its dip is towards the river; in two
+miles crossed it, and again ascended low table land of the very same
+description as the other. At fourteen miles struck another creek with
+water, and camped. The country gone over to-day, though not all of the
+very best description, has plains in it of the very finest kind--even the
+sandy table-land bears an abundant crop of grass. The trees are so thick
+that I can get no view of the surrounding country; the tall beautiful
+palm grows in this creek. Native smoke about, but we have not seen any
+natives. There are large masses of volcanic rock on the sides of this
+creek. At about a mile to the eastward is a large body of springs that
+supply water to this creek, which I have named Anna Creek. Camped at ten
+minutes to three o'clock. Wind variable. Latitude, 12 degrees 39 minutes
+7 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 20th July, Anna Creek. The mosquitoes at this camp have been most
+annoying; scarcely one of us has been able to close his eyes in sleep
+during the whole night: I never found them so bad anywhere--night and day
+they are at us. The grass in, and on the banks of, this creek is six feet
+high; to the westward there are long reaches of water, and the creek very
+thickly timbered with melaleuca, gum, stringy-bark, and palms. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Monday, 21st July, Anna Creek and Springs. Again passed a miserable night
+with the mosquitoes. Started at eight o'clock; course, north-north-west.
+At three miles came upon another extensive fresh-water marsh, too boggy
+to cross. There is rising ground to the north-west and north; the river
+seems to run between. I can see clumps of bamboos and trees, by which I
+suppose it runs at about a mile to the north-north-west. The ground for
+the last three miles is of a sandy nature, and light-brown colour, with
+ironstone gravel on the surface, volcanic rock occasionally cropping out.
+The borders of the marsh are of the richest description of black alluvial
+soil, and when the grass has sprung after it has been burnt, it has the
+appearance of a rich and very thick crop of green wheat. I am now
+compelled to alter my course to 30 degrees south of east, to get across a
+water creek coming into the marsh, running deep, broad and boggy, and so
+thick with trees, bushes, and strong vines interwoven throughout it, that
+it would take a day to cut a passage through. At three miles we crossed
+the stream, and proceeded again on the north-north-west course, but at a
+mile and a half were stopped by another creek of the same description.
+Changed to east, and at half a mile was able to cross it also, and again
+went on my original bearing. Continued on it for three miles, when we
+were again stopped by another running stream, but this one I was able to
+cross without going far out of my course. Proceeded on the
+north-north-west course, passing over elevated ground of the same
+description as the first three miles. At seventeen miles came upon a
+thick clump of trees, with beautiful palms growing amongst them; examined
+it and found it to have been a spring, but now dry. Proceeded on another
+mile, and was again stopped by what seemed to be a continuation of the
+large marsh; we now appeared to have got right into the middle of it. It
+was to be seen to the south-west, north-east, and south-east of us.
+Camped on a point of rising ground running into it. The timber on the
+rises between the creeks is stringy-bark, small gums, and in places a
+nasty scrub, very sharp, which tore a number of our saddle-bags: it is a
+very good thing the patches of it are not broad. The grass, where it has
+not been burned, is very thick and high--up to my shoulder when on
+horseback. About a mile from here, to the west, I can see what appears to
+be the water of the river, running through clumps of trees and bamboos,
+beyond which, in the distance, are courses of low rising ground, in
+places broken also with clumps of trees; the course of the river seems to
+be north-north-west. On the east side of the marsh is also rising ground;
+the marsh in that direction seems to run five or six miles before it
+meets the rising ground, and appears after that to come round to the
+north. Nights cool. Latitude, 12 degrees 28 minutes 19 seconds. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 22nd July, Fresh-water Marsh. As the marsh seems to run so much
+to the east, and not knowing how much further I shall have to go to get
+across the numerous creeks that appear to come into it, I shall remain
+here to-day and endeavour to find a road through it to the river, and
+follow up the banks if I can. I have a deal of work to do to the plan,
+and our bags require mending. After collecting the horses Thring tried to
+cross the marsh to the river, and succeeded in reaching its banks,
+finding firm ground all the way; the breadth of the river here being
+about a hundred yards, very deep, and running with some velocity, the
+water quite fresh. He having returned with this information, I sent him,
+King, and Frew, mounted on the strongest horses, to follow the banks of
+the river till noon, to see if there is any obstruction to prevent my
+travelling by its banks. In two hours they returned with the sad tidings
+that the banks were broken down by watercourses, deep, broad, and boggy;
+this is a great disappointment, for it will take me a day or two longer
+than I expected in reaching the sea-coast, in consequence of having to go
+a long way round to clear the marsh and creeks. The edge of the marsh was
+still of the same rich character, and covered with luxuriant grass. The
+rise we are camped on is also the same, with ironstone gravel on the
+surface; this seems to have been a favourite camping-place for a large
+number of natives. There is a great quantity of fish bones, mussel, and
+turtle shells, at a little distance from the camp, close to where there
+was some water. There are three poles fixed in the ground, forming an
+equilateral triangle, on the top of which was a framework of the same
+figure, over which were placed bars of wood: its height from the ground
+eight feet. This has apparently been used by them for smoke-drying a dead
+blackfellow. We have seen no natives since leaving the Roper, although
+their smoke is still round about us. On and about the marsh are large
+flocks of geese, ibis, and numerous other aquatic birds; they are so wild
+that they will not allow us to come within shot of them. Mr. Kekwick has
+been successful in shooting a goose; it has a peculiar-shaped head,
+having a large horny lump on the top resembling a topknot, and only a
+very small web at the root of his toes. The river opposite this, about a
+yard from the bank, is nine feet deep. Wind variable. Night cool.
+
+Wednesday, 23rd July, Fresh-water Marsh. Started at 7.40, course 22
+degrees east of south, one mile, to round the marsh; thence one mile
+south-east; thence east for six miles, when we struck a large creek, deep
+and long reaches; thence three quarters of a mile south before we could
+cross it. This I have named Thring Creek, in token of my approbation of
+his conduct throughout the journey; thence east, one mile and a half;
+thence north for nine miles, when I again struck the large marsh. Thring
+Creek has been running nearly parallel with the north course until it
+empties itself into the marsh. The country gone over to-day, after
+leaving the side of the marsh, as well as the banks of the creek, and
+also some small plains, is of the same rich description of soil covered
+with grass; the other parts are slightly elevated, the soil light with a
+little sand on the surface of a brown colour; timber, mixture of
+stringy-bark and gums, with many others; also, a low thick scrub, which
+has lately been burnt in many places, the few patches that have escaped
+abounding in grass. I have come twelve miles to the eastward to try to
+round the marsh, but have not been able to do so; the plains that were
+seen from the river by those who came up it in boats is the marsh; it is
+covered with luxuriant grass, which gives it the appearance of extensive
+grassy plains. I have camped at where the Thring spreads itself over a
+portion of the marsh. There is rising ground to the north-west, on the
+opposite side, which I suppose to be a continuation of the elevated
+ground I passed before crossing the creek, and the same that I saw
+bearing north from the last camp. I suppose it runs in towards the river.
+Wind, south. Latitude, 13 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Thursday, 24th July, Thring Creek, Entering the Marsh. Started at 7.40,
+course north. I have taken this course in order to make the sea-coast,
+which I suppose to be distant about eight miles and a half, as soon as
+possible; by this I hope to avoid the marsh. I shall travel along the
+beach to the north of the Adelaide. I did not inform any of the party,
+except Thring and Auld, that I was so near to the sea, as I wished to
+give them a surprise on reaching it. Proceeded through a light soil,
+slightly elevated, with a little ironstone on the surface--the volcanic
+rock cropping out occasionally; also some flats of black alluvial soil.
+The timber much smaller and more like scrub, showing that we are nearing
+the sea. At eight miles and a half came upon a broad valley of black
+alluvial soil, covered with long grass; from this I can hear the wash of
+the sea. On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a
+quarter of a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very
+dense, showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley,
+and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped the
+horses to clear a way, whilst I advanced a few yards on to the beach, and
+was gratified and delighted to behold the water of the Indian Ocean in
+Van Diemen Gulf, before the party with the horses knew anything of its
+proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out "The Sea!" which
+so took them all by surprise, and they were so astonished, that he had to
+repeat the call before they fully understood what was meant. Then they
+immediately gave three long and hearty cheers. The beach is covered with
+a soft blue mud. It being ebb tide, I could see some distance; found it
+would be impossible for me to take the horses along it; I therefore kept
+them where I had halted them, and allowed half the party to come on to
+the beach and gratify themselves by a sight of the sea, while the other
+half remained to watch the horses until their return. I dipped my feet,
+and washed my face and hands in the sea, as I promised the late Governor
+Sir Richard McDonnell I would do if I reached it. The mud has nearly
+covered all the shells; we got a few, however. I could see no sea-weed.
+There is a point of land some distance off, bearing 70 degrees. After all
+the party had had some time on the beach, at which they were much pleased
+and gratified, they collected a few shells; I returned to the valley,
+where I had my initials (J.M.D.S.) cut on a large tree, as I did not
+intend to put up my flag until I arrived at the mouth of the Adelaide.
+Proceeded, on a course of 302 degrees, along the valley; at one mile and
+a half, coming upon a small creek, with running water, and the valley
+being covered with beautiful green grass, I have camped to give the
+horses the benefit of it. Thus have I, through the instrumentality of
+Divine Providence, been led to accomplish the great object of the
+expedition, and take the whole party safely as witnesses to the fact, and
+through one of the finest countries man could wish to behold--good to the
+coast, and with a stream of running water within half a mile of the sea.
+From Newcastle Water to the sea-beach, the main body of the horses have
+been only one night without water, and then got it within the next day.
+If this country is settled, it will be one of the finest Colonies under
+the Crown, suitable for the growth of any and everything--what a splendid
+country for producing cotton! Judging from the number of the pathways
+from the water to the beach, across the valley, the natives must be very
+numerous; we have not seen any, although we have passed many of their
+recent tracks and encampments. The cabbage and fan palm-trees have been
+very plentiful during to-day's journey down to this valley. This creek I
+named Charles Creek, after the eldest son of John Chambers, Esquire: it
+is one by which some large bodies of springs discharge their surplus
+water into Van Diemen Gulf; its banks are of soft mud, and boggy. Wind,
+south. Latitude, 12 degrees 13 minutes 30 seconds.
+
+Friday, 25th July, Charles Creek, Van Diemen Gulf. I have sent Thring to
+the south-west to see if he can get round the marsh. If it is firm ground
+I shall endeavour to make the mouth of the river by that way. After a
+long search he has returned and informs me that it is impracticable,
+being too boggy for the horses. As the great object of the expedition is
+now attained, and the mouth of the river already well known, I do not
+think it advisable to waste the strength of my horses in forcing them
+through, neither do I see what object I should gain by doing so; they
+have still a very long and fatiguing journey in recrossing the continent
+to Adelaide, and my health is so bad that I am unable to bear a long
+day's ride. I shall, therefore, cross this creek and see if I can get
+along by the sea-beach or close to it. Started and had great difficulty
+in getting the horses over, although we cut a large quantity of grass,
+putting it on the banks and on logs of wood which were put into it. We
+had a number bogged, and I was nearly losing one of my best horses, and
+was obliged to have him pulled out with ropes; after the loss of some
+time we succeeded in getting them all over safely. Proceeded on a
+west-north-west course over a firm ground of black alluvial soil. At two
+miles came upon an open part of the beach, went on to it, and again found
+the mud quite impassable for horses; in the last mile we have had some
+rather soft ground. Stopped the party, as this travelling is too much for
+the horses, and, taking Thring with me, rode two miles to see if the
+ground was any firmer in places; found it very soft where the salt water
+had covered it, in others not so bad. Judging from the number of shells
+banked up in different places, the sea must occasionally come over this.
+I saw at once that this would not do for the weak state in which my
+horses were, and I therefore returned to where I had left the party,
+resolving to recross the continent to the City of Adelaide. I now had an
+open place cleared, and selecting one of the tallest trees, stripped it
+of its lower branches, and on its highest branch fixed my flag, the Union
+Jack, with my name sewn in the centre of it. When this was completed, the
+party gave three cheers, and Mr. Kekwick then addressed me,
+congratulating me on having completed this great and important
+undertaking, to which I replied. Mr. Waterhouse also spoke a few words on
+the same subject, and concluded with three cheers for the Queen and three
+for the Prince of Wales. At one foot south from the foot of the tree is
+buried, about eight inches below the ground, an air-tight tin case, in
+which is a paper with the following notice:
+
+"South Australian Great Northern Exploring Expedition.
+
+"The exploring party, under the command of John McDouall Stuart, arrived
+at this spot on the 25th day of July, 1862, having crossed the entire
+Continent of Australia from the Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing
+through the centre. They left the City of Adelaide on the 26th day of
+October, 1861, and the most northern station of the Colony on 21st day of
+January, 1862. To commemorate this happy event, they have raised this
+flag bearing his name. All well. God save the Queen!"
+
+[Here follow the signatures of myself and party.]
+
+As this bay has not been named, I have taken this opportunity of naming
+it Chambers Bay, in honour of Miss Chambers, who kindly presented me with
+the flag which I have planted this day, and I hope this may be the first
+sign of the dawn of approaching civilization. Exactly this day nine
+months the party left North Adelaide. Before leaving, between the hours
+of eleven and twelve o'clock, they had lunch at Mr. Chambers' house; John
+Bentham Neals, Esquire, being present, proposed success to me, and wished
+I might plant the flag on the north-west coast. At the same hour of the
+day, nine months after, the flag was raised on the shores of Chambers
+Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. On the bark of the tree on which the flag is placed
+is cut--DIG ONE FOOT--S. We then bade farewell to the Indian Ocean, and
+returned to Charles Creek, where we had again great difficulty in getting
+the horses across, but it was at last accomplished without accident. We
+have passed numerous and recent tracks of natives to-day; they are still
+burning the country at some distance from the coast. Wind, south-east.
+Latitude, 12 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds.
+
+...
+
+RETURN.
+
+Saturday, 26th July, Charles Creek, Chambers Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. This
+day I commence my return, and feel perfectly satisfied in my own mind
+that I have done everything in my power to obtain as extensive a
+knowledge of the country as the strength of my party will allow me. I
+could have made the mouth of the river, but perhaps at the expense of
+losing many of the horses, thus increasing the difficulties of the return
+journey. Many of them are so poor and weak, from the effects of the
+worms, that they have not been able for some time to carry anything like
+a load, and I have been compelled to make the (symbol crescent over C)
+horses stand the brunt of the work of the expedition. As yet not one of
+them has failed; they have all done their work in excellent style. The
+sea has been reached, which was the great object of the expedition, and a
+practicable route found through a splendid country from Newcastle Water
+to it, abounding, for a great part of the way, in running streams well
+stocked with fish--and this has been accomplished at a season of the year
+during which we have not had one drop of rain. Started, following my
+tracks back. Passed my former camp on the Thring; went on and crossed it.
+Proceeded on my east course to the west, about one mile and a half, to
+some small green marshy plains of black alluvial soil, with a spring in
+the centre, covered with fine green grass. Camped. Wind, south. Latitude,
+12 degrees 30 minutes 21 seconds.
+
+Sunday, 27th July, Small Grassy Plains. Day rather warm; mosquitoes
+terrible; no sleep last night; never found them so bad before; not a
+breath of wind to drive them away.
+
+Monday, 28th July, Small Grassy Plains. Started at 7.40, course 25
+degrees west of south, for my camp of the eighteenth instant. At ten
+miles struck my tracks, thus avoiding the boggy creeks that flow into the
+large marsh. On this course passed five small black alluvial plains,
+covered with grass, three of them having springs with water on the
+surface. They lie between slightly elevated country of light-brown soil,
+having stringy-bark and gums, with occasionally a thin scrub abounding in
+grass. On the plains there is occasionally a little of the volcanic rock
+cropping out. Followed my former tracks to the camp on the Lily Marsh,
+and remained for the night. We all passed a miserable night with the
+mosquitoes. My hands, wrists, and neck, were all blistered over with
+their bites, and were most painful.
+
+Tuesday, 29th July, Lily Marsh. At half-past seven o'clock proceeded on
+the track. Passed my camp of 17th instant, and arriving at the one of the
+16th at four o'clock p.m., camped. Wind, south.
+
+Wednesday, 30th July, Side Creek, Adelaide River. All were delighted with
+a comfortable night's rest--no mosquitoes. Proceeded to Billiatt Springs
+and camped. One of the horses, Jerry, has been ill for the last three
+weeks, and although he has not had anything to carry, it has been as much
+as we could do to get him into the camp. This afternoon he gave in
+altogether, and Mr. Kekwick was quite unable to get him a step further,
+and was compelled to leave him about three miles back, where there is
+some water and plenty of feed. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 31st July, Billiatt Springs. Proceeded and passed our camps of
+13th and 12th instant. Crossed the Mary branch of the Adelaide: went
+along the south side, expecting to avoid the boggy creek crossed on the
+12th instant. When nearly opposite to it, camped. Found this part of the
+branch deep, broad, and boggy; but I think we will be able to cross in
+the morning by cutting down a number of cabbage palms, which are growing
+very thick here. Light winds from south-east.
+
+Friday, 1st August, South Side of the Mary. Recrossed the Mary, which is
+very boggy on the banks. We were enabled to cross it safely by cutting a
+large quantity of long grass, laying it on the sides of the banks, with a
+few logs and pickets driven into the bed to prevent the current from
+carrying away the grass. In this we succeeded very well. After crossing I
+found we had still to encounter the other running and boggy creek of the
+12th ultimo; but, by repeating the same operation, we were successful.
+Passed our camp of the 11th ultimo, and proceeded on towards the table
+land. On approaching it, where the springs come from underneath, found it
+very boggy; had some difficulty in getting the horses through it. Got
+them all through with the exception of Frew's horse, which stuck hard and
+fast in it, and we were obliged to pull him out, which was soon
+accomplished, and we got him safe on terra firma. Continued along the
+foot of the table land, and halted at our camp of the 10th ultimo. At
+about seven p.m. last night I heard something plunging in the river; sent
+down to see what it was; found two of the horses bogged, and unable to
+extricate themselves. Got ropes, and all the party to pull them out.
+After an hour's hard work succeeded. On coming near the table land the
+country is all on fire, causing a dense black smoke and heated
+atmosphere. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 2nd August, North-west Side of Table Land. Proceeded up the
+creek to the gorge--where we came down from the top of the table land;
+ascended it, which they all did well except one horse, which refused to
+go up, and caused me to lose more than an hour with him; we had to take
+all the things off him and carry them to the top on our backs. We had to
+zigzag him backwards and forwards, and got him to the top after a deal of
+trouble. Crossing on the top we met with a large fire about two miles
+broad. The wind not being strong, nor the grass very long, we got through
+it well, but my weak eyes suffered much from the smoke coming from the
+burning logs, trees, and grass. The atmosphere very hot and almost
+overpowering before we got through it. One of the horses knocked up, but
+we were able to get him on to the running creek connected with Kekwick's
+large group of springs, where I am obliged to camp and try to recover
+him. This is the first one of the (symbol crescent over C) horses that
+has failed; but he has not had fair play, through the negligence of the
+man who had him. He has for some time been carrying a load of one hundred
+and forty pounds without my knowledge, far more than he was able to
+carry. He has been a good horse, and has done a deal of work. There are a
+number of native tracks both up and down our tracks. One of the natives
+seems to have a very large foot. Wind, south.
+
+Sunday, 3rd August, Kekwick's Large Springs. Last evening, just as the
+sun was dipping, five natives made their appearance, armed with spears,
+and came marching boldly up to within eighty yards of the camp, where
+they were met by Mr. Kekwick and others of the party who had advanced to
+meet them. They were all young men, small, and very thin. Seeing so many
+approaching them they soon went off. They were all smeared over with
+burnt grass, charcoal, or some other substance of that description. This
+morning, shortly after sunrise, the same five again made their
+appearance. I went up to them to see what they wanted. Saw that they had
+painted their bodies with white stripes ready for war. As it is my
+intention to pass peaceably through the different tribes, I endeavoured
+to make friends with them by showing them we intended them no harm if
+they will leave us alone. One of them had a curious fish spear, which he
+seemed inclined to part with, and I sent Mr. Kekwick to get some
+fish-hooks to exchange with him, which he readily did; we then left them.
+They continuing a longer time than I wished, and gradually approaching
+nearer to our camp, thinking perhaps they really did not wish to part
+with the spear, I sent Mr. Kekwick back with it to them to see if that
+was what they wanted, and to take the fish-hooks from them. But when they
+saw what was intended, they gave back the spear and retained the hooks.
+They offered another with a stone head upon the same terms, which was
+accepted. Mr. Kekwick had a deal of trouble before he could get them to
+move off, when they were joined by another, and then went off by twos. In
+a short time they set fire to the grass all round us to try to burn us
+out. Two of them came again close to the camp under pretence of looking
+for game before the fire, at the same time setting fire to the grass
+closer to us. But Mr. Kekwick and one of the others, seeing their
+intention, ran up to them, who, on their approach, ran off, setting fire
+to the grass as they went along, which gave us a deal of trouble in
+putting out, as we wished to save as much feed for the horses as will do
+for them till to-morrow morning; we have managed that, if they do not
+come and set fire to it again. If they do I shall be compelled to use
+preventive means with them, for I can stand it no longer; they must be
+taught a lesson that we possess a little more power than they anticipate.
+I would have moved on, but some of my horses are so ill that they are
+unable to travel. If the natives we have seen to-day are a sample of
+those that inhabit this country, they are certainly the smallest and most
+miserable race of men that I have ever seen. In height about five feet,
+their arms and legs remarkably thin, they do not seem to want the
+inclination of doing mischief if they could get an opportunity, but they
+find we are rather too watchful to give them a chance. From their manner
+I have no doubt there were many more concealed, who intended attacking us
+under cover of the smoke--indeed if they see us unprepared they may yet
+do it before evening. At sundown they have not again made their
+appearance. Wind, south.
+
+Monday, 4th August, Kekwick's Large springs. Proceeded to the Katherine
+and camped. The horse that knocked up on Saturday gave in again two miles
+before we arrived here, although the distance is only thirteen miles, and
+he had a rest all Sunday. I shall be compelled to leave him here; he only
+destroys other horses dragging him along, and as the season is so far
+advanced, I am doubtful of the water in some of the ponds, and therefore
+cannot stop with him. I have been so very unwell to-day, with symptoms of
+fever, that I could scarcely reach this place; but I hope I shall be
+better by to-morrow. Nights and mornings are now very cold, but the sun
+is very hot during the middle and afterpart of the day. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 5th August, The Katherine. Leaving the knocked-up horse behind,
+proceeded to the Fanny, and camped. It was as much as I could do to sit
+in the saddle this distance. Wind, south.
+
+Wednesday, 6th August, The Fanny. Proceeded to the Waterhouse and camped.
+The natives have been along our track, and burned the grass to within
+three miles of our camp. On arriving here I was much disappointed on
+finding all the water gone, but, following back the north-west branch, I
+found enough for our use to-night and to-morrow morning. The country is
+all on fire to the south-east. Wind, variable. The journey has been
+rather rough and stony, and my weak horses feel it very much. I am afraid
+I shall be compelled to leave some more of them behind. I cannot now stay
+for them to recover, after seeing the rapidity with which this water has
+dried up. A long delay will cause my retreat to be cut off in the pond
+country. Wind, south-east. There is still permanent water up the
+north-west branch of this creek.
+
+Thursday, 7th August, The Waterhouse. Started at half-past seven, and at
+two minutes past ten o'clock I arrived at the running stream (the
+Chambers) of the 4th ultimo and camped. Weak horses looking very bad.
+Country on fire round about us. A number of natives have been following
+on our former tracks. Wind, south.
+
+Friday, 8th August, Running Stream, The Chambers. Crossed the hard
+sandstone range, and got upon the branch of the Chambers that I followed
+up, passing our camp of 3rd ultimo, with plenty of permanent water.
+Followed it down to our camp of the 2nd ultimo and remained there. Had to
+leave one of the done-up horses about two miles behind. Another horse
+gave in, and it was as much as Mr. Kekwick could do to get him thus far.
+The natives have burned all the grass throughout this day's journey. A
+little has escaped at this camp, and I am now compelled to give my horses
+a rest until Monday morning. I thought they would have been able to carry
+me across the Chambers before I gave them a rest, but, if I proceed
+further, I shall lose more of them. The weather is beginning to be again
+very hot in the middle of the day. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 9th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. Day hot. Wind
+variable.
+
+Sunday, 10th August, River Chambers. Resting horses. I have sent Thring
+to bring up the one that was left behind on Friday; in a short time he
+brought him up, looking a most deplorable picture; the other one that
+gave in the same day is quite as bad. I shall have to leave them behind;
+it is only destroying other horses to force them along. I must also
+reduce the weight the others are carrying, to enable them to get along. I
+have had all the saddle-bags overhauled, and shall leave everything we
+can possibly do without--even boots and clothes belonging to the party
+have not been spared; all were quite willing to sacrifice anything they
+had, with the exception of one who had a pair of new boots he had never
+put on. I told him to put them on, and leave the old ones, but he
+immediately told me that he had got a bad foot; I very soon cured him of
+that by telling him if that was the case he might leave the new ones. I
+have managed to leave about three hundredweight; many of the things I can
+ill spare, but I hope by doing this to be able in a short time to push on
+a little quicker. Light winds, variable.
+
+Monday, 11th August, River Chambers. Two of the horses having strayed
+this morning, it was a quarter past nine before I could get a start. I
+had to proceed very slowly, in consequence of five of the horses being so
+ill that they were unable to walk quickly. Proceeded on my former tracks,
+cutting off the bends of the river. In some places it is very stony. Late
+in the afternoon managed to get all the horses to the first camp on this
+river. Light winds, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 12th August, River Chambers. Horses missing again this morning.
+Started at half-past eight. Proceeded to the south-east end of the reedy
+swamp, and at half-past three o'clock camped. An hour before halting, we
+surprised a number of native women and children who were preparing roots
+and other things for their repast. The moment they saw us they seized on
+their children, placed them on their shoulders, and ran off screaming at
+a great rate, leaving all their things behind them, amongst which we saw
+a piece of iron used as a tomahawk; it had a large round eye into which
+they had fixed a handle; the edge was about the usual tomahawk breadth;
+when hot it had been hammered together. It had apparently been a hinge of
+some large door or other large article; the natives had ground it down,
+and seemed to know the use of it. Left their articles undisturbed, and
+proceeded to the river Roper. My horses are still looking very bad. The
+cause must be the dry state of the grass; it is so parched up that when
+rubbed between the hands it becomes a fine powder, and they must derive
+very little nourishment from it. I can hear natives talking and screaming
+on the other side of the river, which at this place is a strong running
+stream about thirty yards wide and apparently deep. Wind, south-east,
+blowing strong.
+
+Wednesday, 13th August, Roper River, Reedy Swamp. One of the horses
+missing again this morning; he is one that generally goes off and hides
+himself if he can find a place to do so. Searched all round, but could
+find nothing of him or his tracks. Thinking that he might be hidden
+amongst the thick bushes over the river, sent Frew to look through them
+on foot, and Mr. Kekwick to an open place up the river to see if he had
+got into it. Mr. Kekwick returned in a short time and reported that he
+saw him lying drowned in the middle of it. I am sorry for this: he was a
+good horse, in fair condition, was with me last year, and has always done
+his work well, although he has caused a deal of trouble and loss of time
+by so frequently concealing himself. I shall feel his loss very much, as
+so many of the other horses are so poor that they are able to carry but
+little of a load, and I am obliged to let four go without carrying
+anything; indeed it is as much as they can do to walk the day's journey,
+although the journeys are short. I shall be compelled to make them still
+shorter to try and get them round again. As we were saddling, one native
+man and two women made their appearance and came close to the camp. Mr.
+Kekwick and I went up to them; the man was middle-aged, stout and tall,
+the women were also tall, one especially. Their features were not so
+coarse as those we had seen before--a very great difference between this
+fellow and those I saw on the source of the Adelaide River. The man made
+signs that he would like to get a fishhook by bending his forefinger and
+placing it in his mouth, imitating the method of catching fish. I gave
+him one with which he was much pleased: I also gave a cotton handkerchief
+to each of the women; one of them no sooner got it than she held out the
+other hand and called out "more, more, more;" with that request I did not
+feel inclined to comply. They remained until we started. Proceeding about
+three quarters of a mile down the river to where I had crossed it before,
+I got all the horses over without difficulty. There is now no difference
+in the strength, depth, nor velocity of the stream since we were here; it
+is exactly in the same state as when we previously crossed it. After
+crossing it to the other side, I had to cross another deep although dry
+creek coming from the east; proceeded on a south-east course to avoid the
+deep boggy creek that comes into the river, but at two miles I was
+stopped by an immense number of springs, very boggy, and emitting a large
+quantity of water; they seem to come from the east, as far as I could
+see, in a wooded valley between two hills. I had to round them until I
+got upon the south-east course again. At seven miles came upon a large
+creek or chain of ponds, having long broad deep reaches of water;
+followed this, running nearly my course for seven miles in a straight
+line. Camped. My horses cannot do more. The country that I have travelled
+over to-day is of the very finest description, rich black alluvial soil,
+completely matted with grass, the water most excellent and abundant. The
+timber, gum and melaleuca, a few of the trees resembling the shea-oak
+also; a few of the fan palms growing among the springs, very tall,
+upwards of forty feet; the cabbage palm, and a number of other bushes.
+The general course to-day has been about east-south-east. Wind variable.
+
+Thursday, 14th August, Springs and Chains of Ponds South of the Roper.
+Started at half-past seven, intending to follow a south-east course to
+make the Mussel Camp on the 23rd of June; but, meeting with another large
+creek with continuous water, deep, broad, and boggy, also a number of
+springs and water creeks, so boggy that I could not cross them, had to
+twist and turn about very frequently, and sometimes to go quite back
+again, before I could clear them--which brought me often close to the
+river again. About eleven o'clock, as I was approaching the east end of a
+low rocky range of hills, where I expected to get rid of all the boggy
+ground, I was again stopped by a broad, deep, and boggy sheet of water. A
+few minutes before coming to it, I was seized with a violent pain under
+the right shoulder-blade, which deprived me of breath and power of
+utterance: it darted through my body like lightning, causing the most
+excruciating pain that I have ever felt during my life. I had to halt the
+party, and was lifted from the saddle completely powerless. After
+dismounting, the pain became so violent, and the torture so excessive,
+that I thought my career in the world was coming quickly to a close. I
+was completely paralysed, and a cold perspiration was pouring in streams
+over my face and body. Recollecting I had got a mixture of laudanum and
+other strong aromatic tinctures, had it sought for and took a strong
+dose. After suffering an hour the extremes of torture, I began to feel
+the good effects of the medicine, and obtained a little relief from the
+pain ceasing for a few seconds; but still very bad. In a short time
+afterwards I was able to bear being lifted into the saddle; again my
+sufferings commenced, for every false step the horse made sent the pain
+through my body like a knife, and almost brought me to the ground. Being
+determined to reach the Mussel Camp to-night, and get quit of the Roper
+River, which has been so unfortunate to me in drowning two of my best
+horses, I kept my saddle until I reached it--which was not till near five
+o'clock. Such a day of torture I never experienced before. On reaching
+our tracks, about four miles from the Mussel Camp, another of the horses
+knocked up, and we could not get him a step further. I expected to have
+lost him long before this; he is one of those that failed on my last
+journey, and was sent back from Mount Margaret. Light winds from east.
+
+Friday, 15th August, Mussel Camp. I have passed a miserable night, and
+feel but little better this morning, and as the horses require rest, I
+shall remain here to-day. Shortly after sunrise, three natives came close
+to the camp; Mr. Kekwick went up to them. Two were of the number of those
+who visited us the first time at the large reedy swamp. They were very
+quiet, and seemed very friendly; they had come to have a look at us, and
+satisfy their curiosity. I feel a little easier to-night. Light wind,
+variable.
+
+Saturday, 16th August, Mussel Camp. Started at nine o'clock. Another of
+my horses very ill; I think that many of them must have eaten some
+poisonous plant on the Roper and its tributaries; I never saw horses fall
+away so rapidly before. The worst are those that have been in good
+condition throughout the journey, and the work they have been doing since
+I commenced my return journey any horses ought to have done with ease. I
+have never travelled more than eight hours a day, and frequently not more
+than six hours. In a day or two they fall away to perfect skeletons, are
+quite stupid, and hardly able to walk. I am glad that I am now quit of
+the Roper, and hope that I shall have no more of them taken ill. If I can
+only get the weak ones beyond Newcastle Water, where I expect to get some
+new grass for them (from the June and July rains), they would soon
+recover. My old horses are all looking well, although they have had to
+carry the heaviest loads throughout the journey. I should have been in a
+sad way without them--they are my mainstay. Arrived at the Rock Camp,
+River Strangways, at two o'clock without having to leave any more. I feel
+a little better to-day, but the motion of the horse has been very severe
+throughout the journey. The water at this camp is drying up very rapidly:
+it is reduced three feet in depth since we left, and I am very much
+afraid it will be all gone in Purdie Ponds--if such is the case, I shall
+lose all the weak horses. Wind in strong puffs, variable.
+
+Sunday, 17th August, Rock Camp. Resting horses. Winds light and variable.
+
+Monday, 18th August, Rock Camp. Three of the best horses are missing this
+morning--they are the three leading horses--while feeding; and I have
+never known them to be away from the others before. The three
+horse-keepers have returned at half-past ten, and can see nothing of
+them; the ground is so hard that their tracks leave but little
+impression, so that they might have passed them unseen. Mounted Thring
+and King on fresh horses to round the feeding-tracks again, and at
+half-past twelve they returned with them. They happened to come upon
+their tracks on a small piece of sandy ground on the opposite side of the
+creek; they traced them to a large permanent water lagoon, deep and
+broad, with water-lilies growing round it, and a number of ducks upon it;
+it is about three quarters of a mile west-south-west from this camp. Not
+seeing them there they followed their tracks for another mile, and there
+found them, at which I was very glad, for they are three of my very best
+horses, on which I am placing my dependence for carrying me back. I felt
+very uneasy at their being away, thinking that the natives might have cut
+them off during night. Saddled and proceeded to my first camp, north of
+the Rocky Gorge, but was disappointed to find all the water gone, which I
+did not expect. Proceeded a mile further, and found as much as will do
+for a drink for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning. Camped. Light
+winds, variable.
+
+Tuesday, 19th August, First Camp North of Rocky Gorge. Started at eight
+o'clock, proceeding to the Rocky Gorge, and camped. This water has shrunk
+considerably since we left it, and I have now little hopes of there being
+any water in Purdie Ponds. If there is not I shall require to push
+through to Daly Waters. Light winds, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 20th August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. If there is no
+water in Purdie Ponds, I have six horses that will not be able to go
+through to Daly Waters; they must be two nights without it, and that they
+will not be able to stand. I have therefore determined to send Thring and
+King to Purdie Ponds to-morrow, to see if there is any water, and also to
+examine another place that I observed in coming through, where I think
+there may be water. If they find none at either of these places, I shall
+be compelled to leave the six weak horses at the camp, where there is and
+will be plenty of food and water for them. To attempt taking them
+through, and be compelled to leave them behind where there will be no
+chance of their getting a drop of water, would, I consider, be a great
+cruelty; here they are safe, and there is a chance of their being picked
+up by the next party. If Thring succeeds in getting water, I shall still
+endeavour to take them on. I am yet suffering very much from scurvy; my
+teeth and gums are so bad that it causes me excessive pain to eat
+anything, and what I do eat I am unable to masticate properly, which
+causes me to feel very ill indeed. Light winds, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 21st August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. At 7.30 despatched
+Thring and King to see if there is any water in the Ponds. Resting
+horses, repairing saddle-bags, etc. Day hot, night and morning cool;
+wind, south-east. My sight has been very much impaired during the last
+month; after sundown, I am in total darkness. Even though the moon is
+full, and shining bright and clear to the others, to me it is darkness; I
+can see her dimly, but she gives me no more light than if she had been
+painted on a piece of canvas. I am now quite incapable of taking
+observations at night, and I am most thankful this did not happen before
+I was enabled to reach the ocean, as the most of my observations are
+taken at night. After the equinox the sun is too high to be measured by
+the sextant in the artificial horizon.
+
+Friday, 22nd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Day exceedingly hot.
+Wind still from south-east, sometimes blowing in strong puffs. A little
+after two o'clock Thring and King returned with the good news that there
+is still water in Purdie Ponds; there is as much as will do for us until
+Monday morning. I am very glad of it, for it will enable me to get the
+weak horses through to Newcastle Water. After that I hope they will soon
+recover, for I expect that rain has fallen to the southward of that, and
+trust I shall get some fresh feed for them, which they require very much.
+I still feel very unwell to-day.
+
+Saturday, 23rd August, Rocky Gorge, River Strangways. Started at
+half-past seven, and at four o'clock arrived at the Ponds. The day has
+been extremely hot, but about noon some heavy clouds came up from the
+east and south-east, which made it a little cooler, and enabled me to get
+all the weak horses through; one of them showed symptoms of giving in
+before we reached the Ponds, but we got him in all right. I shall remain
+here until Monday morning, when I shall have again another long journey
+without water (thirty-five miles) to Daly Waters. At sundown the clouds
+all cleared away, without giving us any rain. Wind, south-east. This
+day's journey has completely knocked me up. At one time I thought I
+should never have been able to reach this water. I had no idea I was in
+such a weak state, and am very doubtful of my being able to stand the
+journey back to Adelaide; whatever may occur I must submit to the will of
+Divine Providence.
+
+Sunday, 24th August, Purdie Ponds. Day hot. Wind light, from south-east.
+About noon a few clouds came up, but they all disappeared about sundown.
+Very little improvement in me to-day.
+
+Monday, 25th August, Purdie Ponds. Started at seven o'clock on my former
+tracks towards Daly Waters. At seven miles south of the Blue-grass Swamp
+saw a heavy fog to the east, in the same place that I saw the black fog
+in coming up; it must be caused by a large body of water in that
+direction. The natives have been running our tracks, and have burnt the
+grass on both sides of it for some distance. There seem to be very few of
+them about this part of the country. At half-past four passed the large
+swamp that receives the surplus water of Daly Waters, with water still in
+it, but very much reduced. At a quarter past five o'clock arrived at Daly
+Waters; found them also very much reduced, but still an abundant supply.
+Got all the weak horses through, which is more than I expected. This long
+journey has again completely exhausted me, and I feel very ill. Wind,
+south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Tuesday, 26th August, Daly Waters. I feel a little better this morning,
+but still very weak and languid. I shall give the horses and myself a
+rest to-day, for I am quite unable to ride. Wind, south-east, with a few
+clouds from the same direction.
+
+Wednesday, 27th August, Daly Waters. Last evening, about half-past seven,
+Thring observed a comet bearing about 20 degrees west of north, and about
+15 degrees above the horizon; the tail is short and the nucleus large. I
+regret that I am unable to see it. I cannot now see a single star,
+everything at night is total darkness. I should like to take some
+observations of it, but I am quite debarred from doing so. Started at
+half-past seven and proceeded along the Daly Waters, in which we saw an
+abundant supply. On reaching McGorrerey Ponds, and finding plenty of
+water, camped. I feel a good deal better to-day, but the motion of
+travelling on horseback is still very severe. Although Daly Waters is
+much reduced, there is still enough to last six months longer, even
+should no rain fall. These ponds will also hold out about three months
+longer. Wind, strong from south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Thursday, 28th August, McGorrerey Ponds. Proceeded to King's Ponds and
+camped. Find that the natives have been running our tracks, and have
+burnt large patches of grass; at this camp they have burnt it round. The
+water here is nearly all dried up; a few days later and I should not have
+got a drop. There is enough to last me to-night and to-morrow morning.
+Strong wind from south-east. The natives have cut on one side of my
+initials, on a gum-tree by the water where we camp, a figure resembling
+(a stylised flying bird).
+
+Friday, 29th August, King's Ponds. Started at quarter past seven;
+proceeded to Frew's Pond, but was disappointed to find it quite dry. Dug
+down two feet, but could find no water. Proceeded on a straight course
+for Newcastle Water. Crossed Sturt Plains, and after dark camped on them.
+I would have gone to Howell Ponds, but finding the others so nearly dry,
+I was doubtful of them. A little before sundown, after I had passed them
+some distance, I observed flocks of pigeons flying towards them, showing
+that there is water still there. It is too late for me to go there now,
+Newcastle Water being the nearest. Wind, south-east. I feel a little
+better than I did on the former long journey.
+
+Saturday, 30th August, Sturt Plains. At dawn of day started, being still
+some eight miles from Newcastle Water. The horses look very wretched this
+morning, especially the weak ones. About half-past eight arrived there,
+and found an abundant supply of water, though much reduced. No rain seems
+to have fallen since we left this, upwards of four months ago. A short
+time before we arrived a number of natives were observed following at a
+distance behind the rear of the party. They followed us on to our old
+camp, when I sent Mr. Kekwick up to them to keep them amused until I had
+the horses unpacked and taken down to water. By giving them a
+handkerchief he obtained a stone tomahawk from them. They are a fine race
+of men, tall, stout, and muscular, but not very handsome in features.
+They were very quiet. By making signs they were made to understand they
+were not to come nearer to our camp than about one hundred and fifty
+yards. They remained until noon staring at us and our horses. Some who
+could not see us very well got into the gum-trees, and had a long look at
+us. They were seventeen in number; four of them were boys, one of them
+much lighter than the others, nearly a light yellow. At noon they all
+went off, after remaining for four hours. Once more have I returned, if I
+may so call it, into old country again, after an absence of four months
+and ten days, exploring a new and splendid country from this to the
+Indian ocean without receiving a single drop of rain, or without any
+hostilities from the natives. I have returned from the coast to this in
+one month and three days. The horses have been one night without water,
+but got it early next morning, between eight and nine o'clock, and they
+would not have been without it if I could have seen to have guided the
+party after sundown. After the rays of the sun have left the earth, all
+is total darkness to me, even if there is a moon; I was therefore
+compelled to camp until daylight. Had my horses been in anything like a
+fair condition to have done a day's journey, and my health permitting, I
+could have accomplished the journey from the coast to this in three
+weeks. Before sundown we were again visited by our black friends; this
+time two old men accompanied them, whom Mr. Kekwick recognised as among
+those who visited the Depot at Howell Ponds during my absence. They all
+came up this time painted in red and white, and after remaining a short
+time went quietly to their camp. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 31st August, North Newcastle Water. The natives again visited us
+this morning, and after remaining some time went off quietly. Wind,
+south-east. Few clouds at sundown.
+
+Monday, 1st September, North Newcastle Water. Whilst saddling the horses
+this morning the natives again came up, and were anxious to know if they
+might be permitted to visit the camp after we were gone; that of course I
+had no objection to. They have been very quiet and peaceable during our
+stay; but I suppose they observed that both night and day we were always
+prepared to resist any aggression on their part. Started at seven
+o'clock, and proceeded by the base of the Ashburton range to my former
+camp on the East Newcastle Water. Distance, twenty-five miles; course
+nearly south-east. Arrived at four o'clock and found the water much
+reduced, but still in great abundance. Not a drop of rain has fallen
+since we left. There are, apparently, two tribes of natives on this
+water, one inhabiting the north and the other the south; for, on those of
+the north visiting us, we could not recognise any of those we saw on the
+southern water. One of the natives was a very amusing little fellow,
+rather less than five feet high, having a very peculiar and comical
+countenance and antics that would have eclipsed Liston in his best days,
+and as supple in the movements of his joints as any clown on the stage.
+He imitated every movement we made, and burlesqued them to a very high
+degree, causing great laughter to his companions and us. He seems to be
+the buffoon of the tribe. The other natives delighted in making sport of
+him, by ridiculing the shortness of his stature and laughing at him
+behind his back. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 2nd September, East Newcastle Water. Proceeded to Lawson Creek,
+but found no water in the lower part. Went up into the gorge, and there
+found as much as will do; it also is nearly gone, but there are still a
+few feet of it. I had no idea that such a body of water could have
+evaporated so quickly, which now makes me very doubtful of the waters to
+the southward. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 3rd September, Lawson Creek. As I now do not expect to get
+water before I reach the Hunter or the Burke, a distance of upwards of
+forty miles, I shall give the horses one day's rest to enable them to do
+the journey. I expect to lose some of the weak ones; to delay longer is
+only making the risk the greater. This must be an uncommonly dry season;
+not a single drop of rain has fallen in this part of the country since we
+left it. Last year we had three days' rain about the middle of June, and
+I was in hopes there would be the same this year, but am very much
+disappointed. I shall lighten the horses as much as I can possibly do, by
+leaving the water-bags, which are nearly useless, blankets, rugs, and
+cloths, as well as any other articles that can be done without.
+Provisions I MUST carry. I sincerely hope the forthcoming equinox will
+give me some rain and enable me to return. I feel a little better, but
+very weak and feeble from the severe attack of scurvy. My mouth and gums
+are so sore that to eat any food gives me the greatest pain. I cannot
+chew it, and am obliged to swallow it as it is, which makes me very ill.
+I am the only one of the party that is at present troubled with it. Wind,
+east.
+
+Thursday, 4th September, Lawson Creek. Started at 6.40, and proceeded to
+the Hawker, but found no water there; thence to Watson Creek, none there;
+thence to Powell, Gleeson, and a number of other creeks that had water in
+them last year, but there is not a drop. Continued on to the creek that I
+camped at coming up. Arrived at 6.45 p.m.; found that water also gone,
+although it was a large deep hole when we were here before. Camped. Weak
+horses nearly done up. About 8.30 p.m. sent Thring up the creek to see if
+he could find any water. In three hours he returned: he had followed it
+up into the rough rocky hills until he could get no further, without
+seeing a drop. Wind, east. A few clouds at sundown coming from the south
+and south-east.
+
+Friday, 5th September, Branch Creek of Hunter. Had to watch the horses
+during the night to prevent them straying in search of water. Started at
+5.40 a.m. for the Hunter; in an hour and three quarters found some water
+in its bed. Camped, and will give the horses the benefit of it to-day.
+Wind variable.
+
+Saturday, 6th September, The Hunter. Proceeded to the Burke, and found an
+abundant supply of water in the large iron conglomerate water hole that I
+discovered last year; it is reduced about four feet, but is still deep,
+and will last yet a long time without rain. I should say it was permanent
+without a doubt. Camped. From here I shall require to send on in advance
+to see if there is water in the Tomkinson; if not, I shall require to
+rest the horses here for three or four days to enable them to do the
+journey to Attack Creek without it. If there is none in the Tomkinson, I
+do not expect to find any in the Morphett. Native smoke about. They have
+burnt a great portion of the grass about here. The day has been
+oppressively hot and close. Wind from the east-south-east, with heavy
+clouds from the south-east to the south-west at sundown.
+
+Sunday, 7th September, The Burke. After sunrise the clouds all gone. At
+6.30 despatched Thring and King to the Tomkinson to see if there is any
+water. The day again oppressively hot, with clouds from south and
+south-east. Wind variable.
+
+Monday, 8th September, The Burke. The clouds continued to come up du-ring
+the night, but after sunrise they cleared off; still no rain. Between one
+and two p.m. Thring and King returned with the disheartening tidings that
+there was no water in or about the Tomkinson. I shall give the horses two
+more days' rest, and push through to Attack Creek, where I am almost sure
+of there being water. The wind variable, sometimes north, east, and west.
+The clouds are broken up, and are nearly all gone, without leaving rain.
+
+Tuesday, 9th September, The Burke. Resting horses, mending saddle-bags,
+etc. Wind, north and variable, with a few clouds from the west and
+south-west.
+
+Wednesday, 10th September, The Burke. Thring on his return last Monday
+saw some water about four miles higher up this creek, nearly on our
+course for the Tomkinson; to that I shall go to-day, and make a start for
+Attack Creek to-morrow morning. Every mile now gained is of the utmost
+importance to me. Started early, to get there in the cool of the morning.
+In an hour and a half arrived at the water and camped. It is situated at
+the foot of some ironstone conglomerate rock, and will last a week or two
+longer. It has a number of small fish in it. The soil on its banks is
+light and a little sandy, with spinifex and grass mixed through it. Wind,
+north and north-west; the clouds have all disappeared. This morning I
+again feel very ill. I am very doubtful of my being able to reach the
+settled districts. Should anything happen to me, I keep everything ready
+for the worst. My plan is finished, and my journal brought up every
+night, so that no doubt whatever can be thrown upon what I have done. All
+the difficult country is now passed, and what remains is well known to
+those who have been out with me before; so that there is no danger of the
+party not finding their way back, should I be taken away. The only
+difficulty they will have to encounter is the scarcity of water, caused
+by the extreme dryness of the season.
+
+Thursday, 11th September, The Upper Burke. Started at 6.40; crossed the
+Tomkinson and small grassy plains; ascended the north spur of the
+Whittington range. After sundown, it becoming quite dark to me, so that I
+could not see the horse's head before me, I was compelled to halt on the
+top of the range, four miles from my former camp on the Morphett. Day
+excessively hot; myself and horses have felt it very much. Wind variable,
+from the north and north-east.
+
+Friday, 12th September, Top of Whittington Range. At break of day
+started over the range to my former camp, but found all the water gone.
+Proceeded down the Morphett, and at four miles found a little in the
+sandy bottom of what had once been a large hole. There is as much as
+will do for me until to-morrow by digging. All the clouds gone; not the
+slightest appearance of rain. The country on fire all round us. Wind,
+north-west and variable. Day exceedingly hot.
+
+Saturday, 13th September, The Morphett. Started at 7.20, crossed the
+other spur of Whittington range, and at 11.20 arrived at Attack Creek.
+There is still an abundant supply of water, although much reduced--much
+lower than I have ever seen it. In about an hour and a half after
+camping, some native women came to the lower end of the hole where
+Billiatt was getting some water. The moment they saw him they went off at
+full speed. In a short time afterwards one man made his appearance and
+came marching up towards us. Sent Mr. Kekwick to meet him. As he
+approached him the black became stationary, and moving back a little,
+beckoned to some others to come up. Mr. Kekwick observed five or six
+others down at the lower end of the water hole, one of whom came up. I
+then sent Frew to Mr. Kekwick. They approached very cautiously, but as
+soon as they caught sight of Mr. Kekwick's gun, he could not get near
+them. On laying it down he got a little nearer; they shrank back when he
+attempted to touch them. Taking out a small strip of white calico which
+he had in his pocket, he tore it into two and held it out to them. They
+wished to possess it, but did not fancy coming too close to him for it.
+He made a sign that he wished to tie it round their wrists; they
+gradually approached nearer, holding out their arms at full length, and
+so frightened were they to come close, that he had to reach out his full
+length to tie them on; after which they gained a little more confidence,
+pointed towards the gun, imitated the report with their mouth, and held
+up three fingers, signifying that they recollected my first visit and
+number, which they do not seem to have forgotten, and seem to dread the
+appearance of a gun. The first one that came up had a very long spear,
+with a flat, sharp, and barbed point. They were two elderly stout men,
+one very much diseased and lame. They remained a long time looking at us.
+None of the others came up. In a little more than three hours they went
+off and we saw no more of them during the evening. Wind, south-west, with
+heavy clouds from the same direction and from the south.
+
+Sunday, 14th September, Attack Creek. During the night the sky frequently
+became overcast with heavy clouds, which seemed to indicate rain, but
+none fell. About eight o'clock the wind changed to north-east, bringing
+up very heavy clouds, which led me to expect rain, but I was much
+disappointed, for at half-past twelve they all broke up and went off.
+This morning, at sunrise, I despatched Thring and Nash to see if there is
+water in Hayward, Phillip, Bishop, Tennant, or Goodiar Creeks. If there
+is none I shall require to rest the horses for three days, and then push
+on for the Bonney. It is a very long distance, and only the very best of
+them will be able to do it. I feel a little better this morning, but
+still very weak. The pains are increasing in my limbs, and my mouth is so
+bad I can eat nothing but a little boiled flour. How I am to get over
+such long pushes I do not know. I must trust entirely to Divine
+Providence. The natives have not visited us this morning. A little before
+four o'clock p.m. Nash returned. Thring had sent him back to report that
+there was water, by digging in the sand, at Hayward Creek, while he goes
+on to see if there is any other creek. Wind variable, with heavy clouds
+at sundown.
+
+Monday, 15th September, Attack Creek. Started at 8.40. On crossing the
+creek, one of the weak horses, which had eaten some poison about the
+Roper, and which has been getting weaker every day, in attempting to get
+up the bank, which was not steep, fell and rolled back into the creek.
+There he had to be some time before he was able to get up. I saw that it
+was useless taking him any further, therefore left him where he will get
+plenty of feed and water. Proceeded to the Hayward, where I met Thring.
+There is some soft mud in Phillip Creek, but none in Bishop Creek.
+Camped, and cleared out a place for the horses to drink at. A number of
+natives have been camped on the opposite side of the creek, where they
+have left their spears, dishes, etc. Thring had arrived here some time
+before. About twenty of them coming closer to him than was safe, he
+mounted his horse and chased them to the hills, where they are now seated
+watching us. Some of them are approaching nearer. Mr. Kekwick could not
+get them to come near him until one of the old men who visited us at
+Attack Creek arrived and came up to him, which gave the others
+confidence. A number of them then came forward--tall, stout, well-made
+fellows, armed with long heavy spears, having bamboo at one end. One of
+them had also part of a large sea-shell, but it is so broken and ground
+down for a scoop that I cannot say of what description it is. The bamboo
+and the sea-shell show that this tribe has communicated with the
+sea-coast. They remained until sundown, and then did not seem inclined to
+go away, but prepared sleeping-places for the night--a proof that this is
+the only water near. There are upwards of thirty men, besides women and
+children. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone.
+
+Tuesday, 16th September, Hayward Creek. The natives showed themselves
+again at daybreak, but kept on the opposite bank of the creek, having a
+long look at us, and calling out something at the top of their voices
+which we could not understand. Watered our horses, saddled, and moved on
+amidst a succession of yells and screeches from old and young. Proceeded
+across Short ranges, and Phillip, and Bishop Creeks. Looked into every
+place I could think of, but could not find a drop. Moved on to Tennant
+Creek. Found that dry. Tried digging in the sand, without effect. Pushed
+on to the large rocky water hole in Goodiar Creek, where I made almost
+sure that I should find some. On arriving, was sadly disappointed to find
+that dry also. Proceeded across the McDouall range, and camped on a
+grassy plain between it and Mount Samuel. The natives followed us nearly
+to Tennant Creek, raising a line of smoke all the way. They kept about a
+mile to the east of us, on some rising ground that runs nearly parallel
+with my tracks. We have had to lighten a heavy cart-horse named Charley.
+When any hardship is to be undergone, he is always the first to show
+symptoms of giving in. He had only thirty pounds to carry to-day, and he
+looks ten times worse than those that are carrying one hundred and
+twenty. I shall require to let him go without anything to-morrow. We
+shall have to watch the horses during the night to prevent them from
+straying in search of water. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 17th September, McDouall Range. Started at daybreak for the
+Murchison range. About eleven o'clock the cart-horse gave in, and would
+not move a step further. I am obliged to leave him; he has been carrying
+nothing all the morning. Two others that have been very weak from eating
+some poisonous plant will, I fear, give in before the end of the day. A
+little after four o'clock I found I must leave them. At dark arrived at
+the Baker, which I found dry. Camped. This is another night the horses
+will be without water, and will require to be watched. A quantity of
+native smoke about. There must be permanent water about this range
+somewhere, but I have no time to look for it now. Tomorrow I must push on
+for the Bonney. If that fails me I shall be in a sad predicament, but I
+trust that the Almighty will still continue to show me the same great
+kindness that he has done throughout my different journeys. There is very
+little improvement in my health. I feel very much being in the saddle so
+long. Twelve hours is almost too much for my weak state, but I must
+endure it. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 18th September, Murchison Range. Proceeded at daydawn to the
+Gilbert. Found it dry. Went on towards the Bonney; crossed the
+McLaren--no water. At two o'clock arrived at the Bonney, and am most
+thankful to Divine Providence that there is still a good supply of water
+that will last some time longer. My horses look very bad indeed. I
+expected to have lost more of them. They have got over this first
+difficulty very well. Towards the end of the journey my old horse took
+the lead. Day hot. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 19th September, The Bonney. From this camp Mount Fisher bears 119
+degrees 30 minutes. I must remain here some time to get my horses round
+again. A large number of them are looking very ill this morning. Being so
+long without water and the dry state in which the grass is, has reduced
+them more than three months' hard work would have done. If the grass had
+any nourishment in it, two or three days would have done for them. Not a
+drop of rain seems to have fallen here for the last twelve months;
+everything is dry and parched up. This appears to be the driest part of
+the year. I am very doubtful of the water in the Stirling, the next place
+that I was depending upon. From the very reduced state in which this is,
+I have very little hope of there being any there. The day has been again
+oppressively hot. I trust we shall soon have rain. Wind variable. Native
+smoke about.
+
+Saturday, 20th September, The Bonney. Resting horses. I feel very ill
+again; being so long in the saddle is very severe upon me. Day again very
+hot. Wind from the west, with a few clouds, which I trust will bring up
+rain.
+
+Sunday, 21st September, The Bonney. Resting horses. Day very hot. Wind,
+west; clouds broken up.
+
+Monday, 22nd September, The Bonney. This morning sent Thring up the creek
+to see if there is any larger water than this that can be depended on for
+some time to come. Very hot. Clouds all gone. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 23rd September, The Bonney. Recruiting horses, etc. About eleven
+o'clock Thring returned. He has been about twenty miles up the creek to
+where it became much narrower and was joined by a number of small ones
+coming from very rough and stony hills. Its general course is about
+east-south-east. At four miles from this he found a pool of water four
+feet deep, two hundred yards long, and thirty feet broad. There is a
+considerable quantity of water all the way up, but shallow, and none of
+the extent of the former one found. Should I be forced to retreat, that
+will be a safe place to fall back on until rain falls. Day again
+oppressively hot. Wind, east.
+
+Wednesday, 24th September, The Bonney. Shortly after sunrise despatched
+Thring to see if there is any water in Thring Ponds, or any between them
+and this. I would have gone myself, but was quite unable to do so, being
+very little better. One of my good horses has met with an accident in
+feeding along the bank of the creek in places where it is very
+precipitous. A portion must have given way and thrown him into the creek,
+injuring him very much in the chest and other parts of the body. I am
+afraid he will not be able to travel with me, which will be a great loss,
+having so many weak ones already. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Thursday, 25th September, The Bonney. Clouds all gone, no rain. Resting
+horses, etc. Day hot, morning and evening cool, with strong wind from
+east and south-east. I have been obliged to reduce the rations to five
+pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per week for each man, which
+will leave me provisions at that rate until the end of January, in case I
+should be locked in with the dry state of the season. The flies at this
+place are a perfect torment. A little after three o'clock p.m. Thring
+returned. There was no water in the Barker, none in the Sutherland, and
+when he got to the ponds, found them quite dry also; he then returned two
+miles to where there was some good feed for the horse, and camped for the
+night without water, intending to return to this in the morning. In
+saddling he observed some crested pigeons fly past him to the south of
+east; he thought it would be as well to follow them some distance in that
+direction, as they might be going to water, as about that time in the
+morning is generally the time they fly towards it. After going a few
+miles he surprised fourteen natives at breakfast. As soon as they saw him
+they ran off at full speed. Observing some small wooden troughs with
+water in them, he collected it together and gave it to his horse.
+Examined the small creek for more, but could find none, and knowing the
+natives would not carry it very far, and that there must be some no great
+way off, went on a little further and found a fine pool of water with
+ducks on it, but shallow. He then returned. This will bring the Stirling
+within visiting distance. I shall remove the party down to the pool
+to-morrow. Strong wind, still from the south-east.
+
+Friday, 26th September, The Bonney. In consequence of the horses
+separating during the night, I did not get a start before nine o'clock;
+followed my former tracks across Younghusband's range; thence on a
+bearing 25 degrees east of south; arrived at the pool of water at 5.15
+p.m. Before reaching the water we crossed four red sand hills, with
+spinifex, running north-east and south-west, having broad valleys
+between, in which are growing melaleucas, gum-trees, and grass. After
+rain they retain water, but now are quite dry. This one that we are now
+camped at is much larger, having the same description of timber, with
+polyganum growing round about it; the water is shallow, and will not last
+long. There are a number of ducks, geese, and other water-fowl on it, but
+too shy to be approached. A quantity of native smoke about. I am very ill
+to-day; I am scarcely able to endure the motion of the horse thus far.
+The horse that injured himself so much knocked up about two miles from
+this water, but we were able to get him to it before sundown. I shall
+have to kill him and eat what is good of him; it is useless to attempt
+taking him on a long journey without water--he would never be able to do
+it; and, as we are now upon half rations of meat, I shall kill and eat
+him, so that he will not be lost altogether. Wind variable. Day
+exceedingly hot.
+
+Saturday, 27th September, Pool of Water. Before attempting to see if
+there is water in the Stirling, I have sent Thring on course 20 degrees
+west of south, to see if there is any creek or water between two stony
+ranges of hills that lie east of Mount Morphett. At sundown he has not
+returned. Wind, west. Day very hot. After sundown we shot the black horse
+that was not able to travel; shall cut him up and dry him to-morrow;
+there are some parts very much injured by bruises he got in his tumble.
+He also showed evidence of having drunk too much water at the Bonney.
+Being so exhausted and knocked up on my arrival there, I was unable to go
+and see they did not drink too much, and had to leave it to others. In
+all my journeys (and my horses have been much longer time without water
+than this), this is the first horse that has injured himself in that way.
+
+Sunday, 28th September, Pool of Water. About eight o'clock, Thring
+returned, being out all night without food or blankets; he had found a
+large gum creek in the place I had sent him to, with water in it, by
+sinking in its sandy bed. I shall move the party to it to-morrow morning.
+Wind variable, mostly from the north and north-east. Day very hot.
+Latitude, 20 degrees 47 minutes 59 seconds.
+
+Monday, 29th September, Pool of Water. Started at seven o'clock, course
+20 degrees west of south. For the first five miles we passed over a fine
+country, soil red, and in places a little sandy, with gums, grass, a
+little scrub, and in places a little spinifex. After this it became
+covered with spinifex until within five miles of the creek, where the
+mulga commenced, with plenty of grass, which continued to its banks,
+where we arrived after twenty-six miles, and had to dig six feet in the
+sand before we could get sufficient water for the horses; by ten o'clock
+p.m. however we got them all watered. I am inclined to believe this is a
+continuation of the Taylor and other creeks coming from Forster range
+more to the eastward. After my arrival here, I sent Thring up the creek
+to see if he could find any surface water. After dark he returned and
+informed me that he had followed it into the Crawford range, and that it
+came through the range; if such is the case, there is no doubt of it
+being the Taylor with the creeks from Forster range. There is no surface
+water, but apparently plenty by digging in the bed of the creek, judging
+from the number of native wells that he saw with water in them. At one of
+the wells he saw several natives, who ran off on his approach. Latitude,
+21 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds. Wind variable. Day oppressively hot.
+
+Tuesday, 30th September, The Taylor. As soon as I could get the horses, I
+despatched Thring to the Stirling to see if there is water. I have sent
+King on with him, with a pack-horse carrying two bags of water for the
+horse that carries him to the Stirling. They are to follow this creek up,
+and, if it is the Taylor, they are to stop to-night at our last camp on
+it. Next morning King is to return to me, whilst Thring goes on to
+examine the Stirling. Still all hands engaged in sinking for water for
+the horses. Wind from the south-east, with heavy clouds from the
+north-west and south-west, showing every indication of rain, which I
+sincerely hope will fall before morning.
+
+Wednesday, 1st October, The Taylor. About nine o'clock last night there
+were a few drops of rain, and almost immediately afterwards the clouds
+broke up and went off to the south-east, to our very great
+disappointment. This morning there are still a few light ones about, but
+very high, and no more appearance of rain. Wind still strong and blowing
+from the same quarter. We have now got enough water for the horses, and
+can water them all in about two hours. No natives have shown themselves
+since we have been here, although their smoke was quite close to us
+yesterday. In the afternoon Thring and King returned, having found a fine
+pool of water about fifteen miles up the creek, four feet deep, which
+will serve us for a short time. Sundown: still blowing strong from the
+south-east; clouds all gone.
+
+Thursday, 2nd October, The Taylor. Started at five minutes to eight,
+course 3 degrees west of south; at five miles got through the gap in the
+range, then changed to 20 degrees west of south, and after ten miles on
+that course reached the water hole. The journey to-day has been over
+first-rate travelling-ground, avoiding crossing the range at Mount
+Morphett. The country in many places along the creek has large grassy
+plains with mulga, gum-trees, and scrub, not too thick to get easily
+through. Native smoke under the hills to the east. Strong cool wind
+blowing all day from the south-east. A little before sundown three
+natives came within three hundred yards of the camp, setting fire to the
+grass as they came along. We could not get them to come any nearer.
+Latitude 21 degrees 22 minutes 12 seconds.
+
+Friday, 3rd October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise
+despatched Thring and King in search of water higher up the creek. I feel
+so weak and ill that I am now scarcely able to move about the camp. This
+morning Frew, in searching for some of the horses, came upon the three
+natives we saw last night; the moment they saw him off they went at full
+speed, and he saw no more of them. They must have been sneaking about and
+watching our camp during the night. Wind still blowing strong south-east.
+
+Saturday, 4th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. It still continues to
+blow very strong from the same quarter. A little before two p.m. King
+returned. They had followed up this creek for a considerable distance
+beyond where the Taylor joined it, and as it came more from the
+south-east than I had expected, and approached near to Forster range,
+Thring changed his course to the Stirling, according to my instructions.
+A little before sundown they arrived at my former camp on the Stirling;
+found the water hole quite dry; dug down, but could find no moisture.
+They had not seen a drop of water during the whole day. In the morning
+King returned to me, giving Thring's horse the water that he had carried
+with him to enable him to search the Stirling down and round about the
+adjoining country. Still blowing strong from the same direction. No
+clouds visible.
+
+Sunday, 5th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Still blowing strong and
+cool from the same quarter. About half-past one o'clock Thring returned;
+he could find no surface water, neither any to be had by digging. He then
+crossed over to the foot of the Hanson, where he saw some native smoke;
+on his arriving at it he surprised a native busily engaged in sinking for
+water, about six feet deep, in the bed of the creek, who, as soon as he
+saw him, jumped out of the well and ran off as fast as he could. He then
+tried to see what quantity of water was in the bottom of the well, but
+having nothing but a quart pot to clear it out with, he was unable to
+form a correct opinion, but from all appearances he thinks there will be
+sufficient for our use for some time, only it will require an immense
+deal of labour and time to remove the great body of sand to enable the
+horses to get down to it. To-morrow I shall send Thring with McGorrerey
+and Nash, with four horses and sufficient provisions for a fortnight. On
+their arrival at the native well on the Hanson they will be able easily
+to get water enough for their four horses that night. McGorrerey and Nash
+will then clear out the well and see what quantity there is in it, while
+Thring will proceed up the Hanson to see if there is water in the springs
+that I discovered on my first journey through the centre. If they are dry
+he will proceed with the examination of the Hanson to above where we
+crossed it; he will then return to the diggers; by that time they will be
+able to judge if there is sufficient water for the whole party. If there
+is sufficient he will leave them to dig, and come on to me; if not, and
+there is no more water higher up, he will bring them on with him, and I
+shall require to try a course more to the south-east. In the afternoon
+the three natives again made their appearance, bawling out as they came
+near, but retreated as Mr. Kekwick went towards them to see what they
+wanted. Wind still south-east.
+
+Monday, 6th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise
+despatched Thring with McGorrerey and Nash to the Hanson. Day very hot. I
+am still very ill--no improvement whatever. Wind strong from the
+south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 7th October, The Taylor. What a miserable life mine is now! I
+get no rest night nor day from this terrible gnawing pain; the nights are
+too long, and the days are too long, and I am so weak that I am hardly
+able to move about the camp. I am truly wretched. When will this cease?
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 8th October, The Taylor. Wind still blowing from the
+south-east; no appearance of rain.
+
+Thursday, 9th October, The Taylor. Last night, about sundown, a native
+woman and youngster came to the waterhole, rushed down, had a drink, and
+were running off again, when I cooed and made signs of friendship; in a
+few seconds the woman gained confidence, and, not seeing any of us
+approach, went down to the hole again, and fetched up a large troughful
+of water. Mr. Kekwick tried to induce her to stop, in order to gain some
+information from her, but it was of no use; the faster he walked the
+faster she did the same, chatting all the time, pointing to the south; so
+he left her to walk at her leisure. They do not seem to be at all
+frightened of us; but we cannot get any of them to come near, although we
+have tried every time they have come. The day again oppressively hot. I
+still feel very ill. Wind from south-east. Nothing particular has
+occurred during the day. This is dreadful work to be detained here so
+long. I am afraid soon I shall not be able to sit in the saddle, and then
+what must I do? I feel myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I hope
+the Almighty will have compassion on me, and soon send me some relief. He
+is the only one that can do it--my only friend.
+
+Friday, 10th October, The Taylor. Last night, a little before sundown,
+until after dark, we were amused by a farce enacted by the natives,
+apparently to keep us quiet and render us powerless, while they
+approached the water hole and got what water they required. They
+commenced at some distance off, raising a heavy black smoke, (by setting
+fire to the spinifex), and calling out most lustily at the top of their
+voices. As the sun got lower I had the party prepared for an attack; on
+they came, the fire rolling before them. We could now occasionally see
+them; one was an old man with a very powerful voice, who seemed to be
+speaking some incantations, with the most dreadful howl I ever heard in
+my life, resembling a man suffering the extremes of torture; he was
+assisted in his horrid yell by some women. As the evening got darker and
+they were within one hundred and fifty yards of us, and nearly opposite
+our camp, the scene was very pretty--in fact grand. In the foreground was
+our camp equipment with the party armed, ready to repel an attack. On the
+opposite side of the creek was a long line of flames, some mounting high
+in the air, others kept at a low flickering light. In the midst of the
+flames the natives appeared to be moving about, performing all sorts of
+antics; behind them came the old man with his women. At every high flame
+he seemed to be performing some mysterious spell, still yelling in the
+former horrid tone, turning and twisting his body and legs and arms into
+all sorts of shapes. They appeared like so many demons, dancing,
+sporting, and enjoying themselves in the midst of flames. At last they
+and their fire reached the water hole after continuing this horrid noise
+for nearly two hours without intermission; as soon as they came in sight
+of the water, those in front rushed down into it, satisfied themselves,
+filled their troughs and bags, except the old man, who kept up his howl
+until he was stopped by a drink of water. This seemed to satisfy them,
+for they went off from us about three quarters of a mile and camped, I
+suppose thinking they had done great things in keeping us so quiet.
+Shortly after this something started the horses which made them all rush
+together. I kept the party under arms till nine o'clock p.m. and then,
+everything appearing to be quiet, I sent them all to bed except the one
+on guard. The natives were quiet during the night. This morning the
+blacks watched us collecting the horses and watering them; they then very
+quietly slipped down to the water, filled their troughs, etc., and in
+about half an hour went off and left us in possession of the water. They
+must certainly think we are very much to be frightened by fire and a
+great noise, or they would never have come in the way they did last
+night; they would have been rather surprised had they attacked us, to
+find that we could both speak and injure by fire. I am better pleased
+that they went away quietly; it is far from my wish to injure one of them
+if they will let me pass peaceably through. About two o'clock p.m. Thring
+returned; he had examined up the Hanson, but could not find a drop of
+water, either on the surface or by digging. On his return to where he had
+left the two men to dig, he found there would not be enough water for the
+whole party, as it came in so slowly; it is on the top of hard burnt
+sandstone; he therefore came on to inform me of the result, leaving the
+two men still there. They had been visited by the natives, who appeared
+to be inclined to be rather unfriendly at first, but on showing them they
+were welcome to use the water as well as the party, they became friendly,
+and came over night and morning to fill their troughs and bags. They
+pointed to the south-south-east, and made signs, by digging with a scoop,
+that there was water in that direction, but how far he could not make
+out. This is a sad disappointment to me. I dare not move the party on to
+where they are digging, there is too little water. To-morrow morning I
+must send Thring and King on to Anna Reservoir to see if there is any
+there; if that is dry I shall be locked in until rain falls, and that may
+not be before the equinox, in March, a very dismal prospect to look
+forward to. I shall start Thring and King to-morrow morning; they will
+reach where the diggers are to-morrow night, and will rest their horses
+there on Sunday. On Monday morning start for Anna Reservoir--King, with a
+pack-horse carrying water, will go on one day with Thring. The water to
+be given to Thring's horse night and morning. Thring will proceed to the
+Reservoir. King will return to the diggers with the empty bags, have them
+filled, and next morning start with fresh horses and the water to meet
+Thring on his return in case the Reservoir is dry; this is the only way
+that I see it can be done. I now begin to feel the want of my health
+dreadfully. Although Thring is a good bushman and does his best, poor
+fellow, yet he wants experience and maturer judgment; he has had hard
+work of it lately, but he is always ready to start again at any moment
+that I wish. Wind, south-east. A few light clouds about.
+
+Saturday, 11th October, The Taylor. The natives camped last night at
+their former place; they seem to have given up all their buffoonery. I
+suppose they see it has no effect upon us. Shortly after sunrise
+despatched Thring and King. The day again oppressively hot, with a few
+light clouds from the south. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 12th October, The Taylor. The natives again encamped in their
+former place last night. They came in late and started early this
+morning. They always seem to go off to the westward. Day again
+oppressively hot. Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 13th October, The Taylor. Can see nothing of the natives this
+morning; they must have gone off during the early part of last night. We
+tried to get near to them yesterday afternoon by making friendly signs,
+etc., but the moment we approached them they ran off, and everything we
+can think of will not induce them to come near us or allow us to get near
+them; they are the most timid race I have ever met with, which I think is
+a very bad feature--such are often very treacherous. I should have a much
+higher opinion of them if they would come boldly forward and see if we
+were friends or foes. Wind from the north; heavy clouds from south and
+south-west.
+
+Tuesday, 14th October, The Taylor. During the night there was a deal of
+lightning in the south and south-west; clouds about, but high and much
+broken. About two o'clock p.m. they collected together and gave a very
+promising appearance of a heavy fall of rain; they seemed to be coming up
+all round, but the heaviest from the south and south-west. At four
+o'clock p.m. it began to lighten and thunder, accompanied by a shower
+which did not last above a few minutes. Sundown: still the same promising
+dark, heavy, gloomy appearance. Wind, south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 15th October, The Taylor. During the night we had a terrific
+storm of lightning and thunder, which continued throughout the night and
+morning at intervals, but little rain has fallen, it has merely damped
+the surface of the ground. At twelve o'clock to-day it has nearly cleared
+all away, leaving only a few light clouds, which is another very great
+disappointment. At sundown it again became overcast. Wind variable.
+
+Thursday, 16th October, The Taylor. Still cloudy during the night and
+morning, but no rain has fallen; the heavy clouds pass south of us to the
+eastward. I am now nearly helpless; my legs are unable to support the
+weight of my body, and, when I do walk a little way, I am obliged to have
+the assistance of one of the party, and the pains caused by walking are
+most excruciating. I get little sleep night or day. I must endure my
+sufferings with patience, and submit to the will of the Almighty, who, I
+trust, will soon send me some relief. Wind variable.
+
+Friday, 17th October, The Taylor. Still heavy clouds during the night and
+day, but no rain will fall. Still very ill. About three o'clock p.m.
+Thring returned; he has been to Anna Reservoir and found plenty of water,
+and a number of natives camped at it, who ran off the moment they saw
+him; he watered his horse and recrossed the range, not thinking it
+prudent to camp where there were so many of them. He has met with the
+same description of weather that we have had up here, thunder and
+lightning with a heavy, cloudy sky, but nothing but a light shower or two
+of rain. I shall move the party on to the Hanson to-morrow, and, if I am
+able to ride, shall push on to-morrow. Wind variable; sky still overcast.
+
+Saturday, 18th October, The Taylor. Started at twenty minutes to eight
+for the Hanson; sky still overcast with heavy clouds. We had two light
+showers during the journey. I am now so helpless that I have to be lifted
+into the saddle. I endured the pain of riding for the first seventeen
+miles far better than I expected; after that it became almost unbearable,
+and camped at twenty-four miles, having found as much water in the rocks
+of the Stirling as will do for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning,
+left from a shower of rain, for which I am very thankful. I could not
+have gone on more than three miles. I was then enduring the greatest pain
+and agony that it is possible for a man to suffer. On being lifted from
+the horse, all power was gone out of my legs, and when I attempted to put
+the weight of my body on them the pain was most excruciating. Still heavy
+clouds about, indicating rain. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 19th October, The Stirling. I had a few hours' sound sleep last
+night, which I find has done me a deal of good. During the early part of
+the night two heavy showers of rain fell, and left plenty of water for
+the horses; got them up, and saddled and proceeded to the Hanson. At
+eight miles arrived there, finding the party all well; they had not been
+troubled with the natives except by their coming down to the water during
+the night time, and bringing into the hole a quantity of sand with them.
+I had to be taken from horseback nearly in the same state as yesterday.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 20th October, The Hanson. Started early; passed the Centre;
+crossed the upper part of the Hanson, and at five miles beyond it camped.
+Distance, thirty-five miles. Not a drop of rain seems to have fallen for
+a long time. During the whole day's journey this has been a terrible day
+of agony for me; nine hours and a half in the saddle. I had to be taken
+from my horse in the same helpless state as before. My feet and legs are
+now very much swollen; round the ankles they are quite black, and the
+pain is dreadful. I still continue to take the bicarb of potash, but it
+has little or no effect. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 21st October, South of the Centre. About sunrise started for
+Anna Reservoir, and at 5.30 p.m. arrived there, completely exhausted.
+Wind, variable. Heavy clouds from the south-east.
+
+Wednesday, 22nd October, Anna Reservoir. Last night I was so completely
+overcome by fatigue and exhaustion that I had no sleep during the whole
+of the night, which makes me feel very ill indeed this morning. I shall
+be obliged to remain here to-day and to-morrow, to see if that will
+recruit my strength and enable me to perform the long journeys to the
+McDonnell range. About twelve o'clock heavy thundery weather to the west
+and south.
+
+Saturday, 23rd October, Anna Reservoir. I shall rest to-day and have what
+shoes there are left put on the horses. I, with William Auld, will
+proceed to-morrow about ten miles in advance, to divide the long journey
+into two, for I have not strength to do it in one day. Wind variable.
+
+Friday, 24th October, Anna Reservoir. Started early, taking with me
+Thring, King, and Auld, with one pack-horse to carry my tent, water, etc.
+Proceeded through the thick mulga scrub, and at ten miles camped, which I
+find is quite as much as I am able to do. Had my tent put up, and myself
+carried into it. Sent Thring and King back with the horses to the
+Reservoir, keeping Auld with me. The party will start from the Reservoir
+early to-morrow morning, pick me up, and proceed to Mount Harris. Wind,
+east.
+
+Saturday, 25th October, Mulga Scrub South of Anna Reservoir. A few
+minutes before ten o'clock a.m. the party arrived all right. I was soon
+ready and lifted up into the saddle, and started at 10.10. During the day
+it has been excessively hot. At 5.45 p.m. arrived at Mount Harris, being
+nearly eight hours in the saddle, which is far more than I am able to
+endure in my terribly weak state. It is between my shoulder-blades and
+the small of my back that I am so much affected while riding. When the
+pain from them becomes unbearable I endeavour to get on as far as I can
+by supporting my weight upon my arms until they give way. I arrived here
+in a state of utmost exhaustion; so much so that I was quite unable to
+eat a single mouthful of anything. After we had the horses unpacked, a
+few natives made their appearance on the side of the mount, calling out
+something and pointing to the north-east. Sent Thring and King to see if
+they could make anything of them, but they soon ran down the other side
+of the mount, and, when seen again, were marching off in the direction
+they had pointed out. They had taken good care before leaving to use
+nearly all the water in the crevices of the granite rocks; they left
+about a quart. Finding it quite impossible to remain so long in the
+saddle as I have done to-day, I got Mr. Kekwick and some of the others to
+construct a stretcher during the night, which I hope will enable me to do
+a long journey to-morrow. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 26th October, Mount Harris. Had the stretcher placed between two
+horses. Had great difficulty before we could get two that would allow it
+to be passed between them. At last succeeded in getting two that we
+thought would do very well, as they seemed to go very quietly with it. I
+shall continue on horseback until I find that I have got enough of it.
+Started a little after sunrise. I found I could continue two hours and a
+half in the saddle without fatiguing myself too much. Having done this, I
+sent to the rear of the party for the stretcher, when, to my great
+disappointment and vexation, I found that a short time before something
+had annoyed one of the horses, which set to and kicked it all to pieces,
+which is a great misfortune. I continued in the saddle, and proceeded
+until I was exhausted, which happened at the end of fifteen miles, when I
+was compelled to stop. Keeping Auld with me, and some water, I sent on
+the party and all the horses to Mount Hay. If they find water they are to
+camp and return for me to-morrow; if not, they are to push on to the
+Hamilton Spring; if that is gone, they will have to cross the range to
+Brinkley Bluff. I find myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I am
+very ill indeed. Wind, south-east.
+
+Monday, 27th October, Hills North of Mount Hay. About 11.30 a.m. King and
+Nash returned for me. Thring had found water in one of the gullies, but
+the approach to it was very rough and stony indeed. Thring had gone to
+see if there was any water in the clay-pans that I had camped at on my
+journey up, and if there is, will take the party over there, and will
+send one of the men to meet me and inform me of it. The distance from
+here to the water is ten miles. Had the horses saddled; mounted, and
+proceeded towards it. At the end of two hours the motion of the horse
+became so dreadful to me, and the pain I was suffering from was such as
+no language can describe; but I still continued in the saddle, and,
+within a mile and a half of the water, met Frew, whom Thring had sent to
+say that he had found plenty of water in the clay-pans, with green grass,
+and that the party had moved on to it. Distance from where we were then
+to the clay-pans, six miles further. I could no more sit in the saddle
+that distance than I could fly; I am now already completely exhausted,
+and have still a mile and a half to ride before I can reach the other
+water. To that I must go, and see what a night's rest will do in the
+morning. While taking a drink of water, I was seized with a violent fit
+of vomiting blood and mucus, which lasted about five minutes, and nearly
+killed me. Sent Frew on to the party. Went on the best way I could with
+the other three to the water. Arrived there feeling worse than I have
+ever done before. I have told King and Nash to remain with me in case of
+my dying during the night, as it would be lonely for one young man to be
+here by himself. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 28th October, Mount Hay. Started in the cool of the morning, and
+in two hours reached where the party were camped, so much exhausted and
+so completely done up that I could not speak a word--the power of speech
+has completely left me. I was lifted from the saddle and placed under the
+shade of a mulga bush. In about ten minutes I recovered my speech. I find
+that I can no longer sit on horseback; gave orders for some of the party
+to make a sort of reclining seat, to be carried between two horses, one
+before the other; also gave orders that a horse was to be shot at
+sundown, as we are getting rather short of meat, and I hope the change of
+beef tea made from fresh meat will give me some increase of strength, for
+I am now reduced to a perfect skeleton, a mere shadow. At sundown had the
+horse shot; fresh meat to the party is now a great treat. I am denied
+participating in that pleasure, from the dreadful state in which my mouth
+still is. I can chew nothing, and all that I have been living on is a
+little beef tea, and a little boiled flour, which I am obliged to
+swallow. To-night I feel very ill, and very, very low indeed. Wind,
+south-east, with a few clouds.
+
+Wednesday, 29th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. This morning I feel
+a little relieved in comparison with my exhausted state of yesterday. I
+had a very troubled night's rest. All hands cutting up the horse, and
+hanging up the meat to dry. Thring and Nash out for two long poles to fix
+the chair in, which they succeeded in finding. At twelve o'clock had all
+the meat of the horse cut up and hung up to dry. Day oppressively hot.
+Wind, south-east. Clouds.
+
+Thursday, 30th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I think I am a
+little better this morning, but still very weak and helpless. Find that
+the chair will not answer the purpose, and must have a stretcher instead.
+Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 31st October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I felt a little
+improvement this morning, which I hope will continue; and I think I have
+reached the turn of this terrible disease. On Tuesday night I certainly
+was in the grasp of death; a cold clammy perspiration, with a tremulous
+motion, kept creeping slowly over my body during the night, and
+everything near me had the smell of decaying mortality in the last stage
+of decomposition and of the grave. I sincerely thank the Almighty Giver
+of all Good, that He, in His infinite goodness and mercy, gave me
+strength and courage to overcome the grim and hoary-headed king of
+terrors, and has kindly permitted me yet to live a little longer in this
+world. Auld, who was in attendance upon me on that night, informed me
+that my breath smelt the same as the atmosphere of a room in which a
+dead body had been kept for some days. What a sad difference there is
+from what I am now and what I was when the party left North Adelaide! My
+right hand nearly useless to me by the accident from the horse; total
+blindness after sunset--although the moon shines bright to others, to me
+it is total darkness--and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak
+and painful that I am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to
+that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantine weakness
+--a sad, sad wreck of former days. Wind variable.
+
+Saturday, 1st November, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. Although in such a
+weak state, I shall try if I can ride in the stretcher as far as Hamilton
+Springs. Started early; found the stretcher to answer very well. On
+arriving at the springs, saw that there was not sufficient water for the
+horses, and, as I had stood this part of the journey so well, made up my
+mind to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. Proceeded, and arrived there
+about five o'clock p.m. I have stood the long journey far better than I
+expected, but feel very tired and worn out. Wind variable. Cloudy.
+
+Sunday, 2nd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Got a few hours' good
+sleep during the night, and feel a good deal better this morning. Day
+still cloudy. Wind variable.
+
+Monday, 3rd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Started at 7.30 a.m. for
+Owen Springs. Saw where one of the horses died that I was compelled to
+leave behind on coming up. As there is only the hair of his mane and tail
+to be seen, and not a single bone, I am inclined to think that he has
+been killed, carried off, and eaten by the natives. I expect the other
+one has shared the same fate. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at the springs. Plenty
+of water. I have stood the journey very well, but am very tired. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 4th November, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 a.m.,
+passing through the gorge of the Waterhouse range. At 1.20 arrived at the
+springs under the conglomerate rock, a mile and a half north-east of the
+gorge in James range. I feel the shaking of the stretcher very much, and
+am again very tired, but am glad to find that I am getting a little
+stronger. Wind, south-east. The clouds are all gone.
+
+Wednesday, 5th November, Spring, Conglomerate Rock, The Hugh. Started at
+7.25 a.m. Passed through the gorge of James range and proceeded to the
+side creek in which water was obtained on coming up. Found some still
+there. Camped. Sent four of the party to clear out the hole; in the
+meantime sent Thring up the side creek to see if there is any surface
+water left from the showers of rain that have fallen here some short time
+ago. Since leaving the McDonnell range we have had plenty of green grass,
+showing that rain has fallen some time back; it has made no impression
+upon the large creek, which is quite dry. In a short time Thring
+returned; he has seen as much as will do for forty horses to-night, which
+is a good thing. Sent him up with them, and watered the remainder at this
+hole, into which the water comes very slowly, in consequence of the main
+creek having none in its bed below the sand. I again feel tired from the
+shaking of the horses and the stretcher. The swelling of my gums and the
+black blisters, which have been so very painful for such a long time
+back, are slowly giving way before some vegetable food which I have been
+able to get since coming into the green, grassy country; I hope it will
+soon cure me. My teeth are still loose, but it is a great thing to get a
+little relief from a great mouthful of swollen, blistered, and most
+painful gums. When my mouth was closed I had scarcely room for my tongue;
+the blisters are now much reduced. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 6th November, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 towards the Finke; at
+five p.m. met with some water in a clay-pan, and camped. I am a little
+stronger to-day, and feel that I am gradually improving. Wind,
+south-east. Night and morning cool.
+
+Friday, 7th November, North of the Finke. Proceeded to Pascoe Springs in
+the Finke; found plenty of water and camped. Day oppressively hot. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Saturday, 8th November, Pascoe Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Sullivan
+Creek and found sufficient water to do for us until Monday morning, and
+this being a place for feed for the horses, I shall remain here until
+that time. I feel very tired and sore after this rough week's work, and
+am glad of a day's rest. I feel a gradual improvement in my health and
+strength, which I hope will continue to increase. Wind variable, mostly
+from south-east.
+
+Sunday, 9th November, Sullivan Creek. During the night had a few drops of
+rain; heavy clouds to the west, north-west, north, north-east, and east.
+Wind blowing strong and variable. Sundown: the sky overcast with heavy
+clouds.
+
+Monday, 10th November, Sullivan Creek. Some of the horses missing this
+morning. Did not get a start till nine o'clock a.m. Day oppressively hot.
+Crossed the Finke three times, and arrived at Polly Springs, where there
+is plenty of water. Camped. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 11th November, Polly Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Marchant
+Springs. Camped. The water is low and rather boggy. Dug a place about
+eighteen inches deep in the firm ground, and the water came boiling up. I
+am happy to find that I am gaining a little strength again. I was able to
+walk two or three steps by leaning upon two of the party, but the pain
+was very severe. Wind, south-east; a few clouds about.
+
+Wednesday, 12th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. As I am not
+certain of water at the next two camps, I will rest the horses as well as
+myself here to-day, for we both require it very much; it will enable them
+to stand a long push if required. A number of showers of rain seem to
+have fallen here this month. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 13th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. Started at 7.40.
+Proceeded towards the Goyder, and at nine miles found myself in as dry a
+country as ever; not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for upwards
+of twelve months. On arriving at the Goyder found a little moisture at
+the bottom of the sand in the rocks--not enough for the horses. Pushed on
+towards the Coglin, and at dark camped in the mulga scrub without water.
+Day most oppressively hot. Light wind from south-east.
+
+Friday, 14th November, Mulga Scrub. Started at six o'clock a.m. Examined
+the different creeks in which I found water on my journey to the north
+but there was not a drop. At twelve miles reached the Coglin--none there.
+Country all in the same dry state. Proceeded on to the Lindsay, where I
+am sure of water. At four o'clock arrived there and found plenty. Camped.
+Thanks be to God, I am once more within the boundary of South Australia!
+I little expected it about a fortnight ago. If the summer rain has fallen
+to the south of this, there will be little difficulty in my getting down.
+I am again suffering very much from exhaustion, caused by a severe attack
+of dysentery, which has thrown me back a good deal in the strength I was
+collecting so quickly, but I hope it will not continue long. Wind,
+south-east.
+
+Saturday, 15th November, The Lindsay. At day-break I have sent Thring to
+the Stevenson to see if there is water there, either on the surface or by
+digging in the sand; if there is I shall move the party over there
+to-day, and on Monday morning start for the Hamilton (I expect no water
+between); and if not, I shall remain here till that time and push for the
+Hamilton. About ten o'clock a.m. he returned and reported no water, only
+a little moisture on the top of the clay beneath the sand. Day very hot.
+I still continue to be very unwell. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 16th November, The Lindsay. Day oppressively hot. Light winds,
+south-east.
+
+Monday, 17th November, The Lindsay. Started soon after sunrise, crossed
+the Stevenson and the Ross; both quite dry. Proceeded across Bagot range
+to the gum water-hole; that is also dry. Found a little rain water in one
+of the small creeks, but not enough for all the horses. The day being
+excessively hot, the journey very rough and stony, and many of them lame
+from want of shoes, also it being near sundown, and there being a little
+green grass about, I have camped. Wind variable.
+
+Tuesday, 18th November, The Gums, Bagot Range. Started at 5.40 a.m. to
+the large waterhole in the Hamilton; in about a mile found some rain
+water, which I allowed the horses to drink. At 10 a.m. arrived at the
+large water-hole, and found it very low indeed; a great number of dead
+fish all round it. This must certainly be a very unprecedentedly dry
+season indeed; this water-hole does not seem to have received any water
+for the last two years. The water being old and stagnant, I am afraid
+will make us ill; we have all already been suffering much from stagnant
+waters we have been compelled to use. I, however, must give the horses a
+day's rest to enable them to make the next and last push, nearly a
+hundred miles, to the first springs. From the dryness of the season, I
+scarcely expect to find water before I reach them, which will be a severe
+trial for the horses, the weather being so extremely hot. I am still
+suffering very much from the effect of the stagnant waters; they have
+sent me back again nearly to my former state of weakness, and have
+assisted in checking my recovery from the scurvy, which is now again
+gaining ground upon me since I lost the vegetable food. The country being
+now so dry, there having been no late rain, there is not a blade of grass
+to be seen. Hot wind from the north. This is the first and only hot wind
+I have felt during the whole journey from Mount Margaret to the
+sea-coast, and back to this place. In the afternoon the sky became
+overcast with heavy clouds. At sundown the wind changed to west, and blew
+very strong till eleven o'clock p.m.; we then had a few drops of rain,
+but not enough to moisten the surface of the ground; after this it became
+calm, the clouds broken, and there was no more of it.
+
+Wednesday, 19th November, The Hamilton. This morning still cloudy, but
+excessively close and hot. I am glad that I resolved to remain here
+to-day, for the poor horses would have felt it very much travelling over
+the high and heavy sand hills that we have to go over in the first day's
+journey. In the afternoon the sky again became overcast with heavy
+clouds, and there was a great deal of thunder and lightning to the west
+and north, and again, at the same time as last night, we were favoured
+with a few drops of rain; the result the same as it was then. Wind
+variable and squally.
+
+Thursday, 20th November, The Hamilton. This morning the clouds have
+cleared away, but there is a nice cool strong breeze from the south-east
+and east--a fine thing for the horses crossing the heavy sand hills.
+Started at six o'clock a.m. Got over them very well, and reached the
+mulga plain. About twelve the wind ceased, and it became very hot. In the
+afternoon one of the horses (Trussell) began to show symptoms of being
+very ill. One of the party was riding him at the time. I had him changed
+immediately and allowed him to run loose, but he seemed to have lost all
+spirit and soon dropped behind. I then had him led and driven for upwards
+of two miles until I reached the Frew or Upper Neale. The dreadfully dry
+state of the country since leaving the sand hills--it being completely
+parched up--leaving me no hope of getting water until I reached the gap
+in Hanson range or the Freeling Springs, and it being quite impossible
+for us to drag him on there, I was compelled to abandon him, as it would
+only knock up the other horses to drive him on. Proceeded through a still
+parched-up country to the large dry lagoon, and at dark camped without
+water. Wind, south-east.
+
+Friday, 21st November, Large Dry Lagoon. Started at break of day through
+some low sand hills, with valleys and clay-pans, all dry. At a little
+more than six miles after starting, I was rather surprised to find recent
+tracks of horses that had been feeding on and about our tracks. Thinking
+it might be a party out looking for us, as I have now been some time
+longer than I anticipated at starting, I sent Thring to examine and see
+how many horses there were. In about half an hour he returned, and said
+that he could only make out two, and those I immediately concluded were
+two of the horses that had given in near this place on my journey to the
+north. Proceeded on to the camp where I had buried the two hundred pounds
+of sugar, frequently meeting their tracks, apparently in search of water.
+Arrived at the camp, but there is not a drop there, and no appearance of
+the two horses, but only their tracks in the bed of the creek, following
+it down to the eastward, where there must be permanent water that has
+supplied them during the past year. A thunder-shower must have brought
+them out to visit the spot where they were first left. I should have
+liked very much to have regained them, but the dry state of the country
+and the want of water will not allow me to look for them. Found that the
+things buried had been disturbed, and most of them carried away by the
+natives--the others all destroyed--the sugar all gone, except about five
+pounds, which was left in the hole and covered up. Proceeded, crossing
+side branches of the Neale, but not a drop of water in any of
+them--everything dried up. Went on towards the gap in Hanson range. At
+about eight miles before reaching it, Frew's horse (Holland) knocked up
+with him; he could not get him on a step further, and had to leave him.
+On reaching the Lindsay, this horse had been allowed by Frew to drink too
+much water, and had not recovered from the effects of it. At dark arrived
+at the gap, and found plenty of water, for which I am very thankful, for
+there are many of the horses that would not have stood another day's
+journey without it. Day exceedingly hot. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 22nd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Resting horses, etc. Sent
+Frew in search of his horse shortly after sunrise. About half-past two he
+returned, and reports that he cannot be found; that he had searched round
+about the creeks and gullies where he had been left, but could find
+nothing of him, and the country was too stony to track him. Day again
+very hot.
+
+Sunday, 23rd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Started at six o'clock a.m.,
+intending to get to Freeling Springs, but one of the horses that had
+eaten poison about the Roper country, and has never recovered from it,
+but was always very poor, and of no use whatever, knocked up, and would
+not move a step further; being only six miles from where we started, we
+left him and proceeded on our journey. About this time the wind changed
+to the north, and it came on to blow a fierce hot wind, and by the middle
+of the day it was almost unbearable. Two more of the horses knocked up,
+and being nearly opposite the McEllister Springs, I turned to them and
+camped. These springs required to be dug out before we could get water
+enough for all the horses. After opening two of them, we found them to
+yield a sufficient supply. Still continuing to blow a terrific hot wind
+from the north. A little before sundown it changed, and came on to blow
+from the south, and blew the hot wind back again. For three hours it was
+as hot as when coming from the north.
+
+Monday, 24th November McEllister Springs. Proceeded to the Freeling
+Springs and camped. This journey was as much as the horses are now able
+to do. The stagnant and spring waters have weakened them so much that I
+shall be compelled to rest them some time at Mr. Jarvis's, Levi's
+station, before they will be able to perform the remainder of the journey
+to Adelaide, that is, if I can get them that length.
+
+Tuesday, 25th November, Freeling Springs. Found one of the chestnut
+horses that was left here. The other one seems to have been taken on to
+Mr. Jarvis's. Started shortly after sunrise. Proceeded to the Milne
+Springs and camped. The day again extremely hot. Wind still from the
+south-east. Twenty miles a day is now as much as my horses can
+accomplish.
+
+Wednesday, 26th November, Milne Springs. Proceeded to Mr. Jarvis's
+station, Mount Margaret, which I expected to reach without losing any
+more horses, but I am disappointed, for I had to leave four behind
+knocked up, which I shall be able to recover to-morrow or the next day.
+Mr. Jarvis being from home, we were received by his men with a hearty
+welcome, and were shown every kindness and attention that was in their
+power. Day again very hot. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 27th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Sent out
+and had the one that knocked up about two miles from here brought in. I
+am still very ill, but am able to walk a few yards without assistance. I
+hope a few days will benefit me much. Day very hot. Wind, south-east.
+Clouds.
+
+Friday, 28th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Still
+cloudy. Promising rain. Sent out and had the other three knocked-up
+horses brought in all right. Yesterday got in the other chestnut horse
+left at the Freeling Springs, and brought down here by Woodforde. Clouds
+breaking up. No rain. Wind, south-east.
+
+Saturday, 29th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses, etc. I
+find the scurvy is fast gaining upon me, although I have had fresh meat
+for the last few days. I must therefore push on as fast as possible down
+the country, in order to get some vegetables. I shall start to-morrow
+evening, and travel during the night to the William Spring to avoid the
+great heat of the day, taking with me the stretcher (for I am not yet
+able to ride), three men, and the strongest horses, leaving the rest here
+for another week to recover with remainder of the party in command of Mr.
+Kekwick, who, as soon as the horses are sufficiently strong, will conduct
+the party to Adelaide. Clouds all gone. Wind, south-east.
+
+Sunday, 30th November, Near Mount Margaret Station. Started at five p.m.
+for the William Spring with fourteen horses, leaving the weak and done-up
+ones at Mount Margaret for another week to recover. I have also brought
+on with me Auld, King, and Billiatt. The others I have left with Mr.
+Kekwick, to whom I have given command of the party, and who will conduct
+them to Adelaide by easy stages, as soon as the horses are able to
+travel. I travelled during the night, and arrived at the spring a little
+before six a.m. Camped, unsaddled the horses, and turned them in amongst
+the young reeds to feed, which they seemed very eager for.
+
+Monday, 1st December, William Spring. During the day the horse that I was
+compelled to leave here on my northward journey came towards the others,
+but appeared very shy. I left him alone till nearly sundown, when I sent
+King to see if he had joined them, and to see if the others were all
+right. At dark he returned, and reported them to be all right, and that
+the other had joined them. He tried to catch him, but that he would not
+allow, so he left him with the others during the night. The day has been
+very close and oppressive, with heavy clouds and distant thunder. I am
+glad I performed this long journey during the night. Wind, south-east.
+Clouds all gone.
+
+Tuesday, 2nd December, William Spring. Got all the horses into camp, and
+attempted to catch the stranger, but could not without roping him; I
+therefore drove him along with the others to the Beresford Springs, and
+then he allowed himself to be caught and hobbled. The journey has quieted
+him. It is the longest journey he has had for nearly twelve months. I
+arrived about four o'clock p.m., and there being plenty of young reeds,
+camped. The day has been again very hot, but occasionally strong breezes
+from the south-east and east.
+
+Wednesday, 3rd December, Beresford Springs. Proceeded to Mount Hamilton
+Station, where I received a very kind reception from Mr. Brown, and was
+treated with the greatest possible kindness. Toward evening I again felt
+very ill. Day very hot. Wind, south-east.
+
+Thursday, 4th December, Mount Hamilton Station. I have been very ill
+during the night, but started for Chambers Creek. Arrived there about
+mid-day, where I again experienced a like hospitable reception and great
+kindness from Mr. Lee. Wind variable. Day extremely hot.
+
+Friday, 5th December, Chambers Creek. I shall require to rest my horses
+here to-day. I was in great hopes that when I reached this place I should
+have been again able to have ridden on horseback, but the waters of the
+spring country through which I have just passed have reduced me nearly to
+my former state of weakness, and I shall still be compelled to continue
+in the ambulance a little longer. I feel a little better this morning--I
+suppose in consequence of drinking fresh water. Hot wind from the north.
+Towards evening a heavy thunderstorm coming from the westward.
+
+Saturday, 6th December, Chambers Creek. Started at eight o'clock with the
+ambulance towards Termination Hill. After crossing numerous sand hills,
+we frequently found rain water. Towards sundown arrived at the south side
+of Porter Hill. Found rain water, and camped, one of the horses being
+nearly knocked up. I shall be compelled to take to the saddle to-morrow,
+for the ambulance horses will not be able to carry me further. I must
+send them back to the creek, there to rest till the others come down.
+Cloudy. Wind variable.
+
+Sunday, 7th December, Porter Hill. Mounted and started at six a.m. I find
+that I can endure the motion of the horse better than I expected; but
+about mid-day began to feel it very much. Towards four o'clock found some
+rain water about ten miles from Termination Hill, for which I am very
+thankful, for I could not have continued the journey any further. Camped.
+Wind variable.
+
+Monday, 8th December, Termination Hill. During the night had a heavy
+thunderstorm and shower from the south-east. Started at six a.m. and
+arrived at Mr. Glen's Station at sundown, quite done up; received a
+hearty welcome. Encountered a heavy storm of thunder and lightning a few
+miles from the station. Wind, south-east.
+
+Tuesday, 9th December, Mr. Glen's Station. Proceeded to Mount Stuart
+Station, where I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. John Chambers, who
+received me with great kindness. There has been some heavy rain here
+lately. Wind, south-east. Day hot.
+
+Wednesday, 10th December, Mount Stuart Station. Accompanied by Mr.
+Chambers, proceeded to Moolooloo, and arrived there in the afternoon
+completely tired and exhausted from riding in the saddle. Day hot. Wind,
+east.
+
+In conclusion, I beg to say, that I believe this country (i.e., from the
+Roper to the Adelaide and thence to the shores of the Gulf), to be well
+adapted for the settlement of an European population, the climate being
+in every respect suitable, and the surrounding country of excellent
+quality and of great extent. Timber, stringy-bark, iron-bark, gum, etc.,
+with bamboo fifty to sixty feet high on the banks of the river, is
+abundant, and at convenient distances. The country is intersected by
+numerous springs and watercourses in every direction. In my journey
+across I was not fortunate in meeting with thunder showers or heavy
+rains; but, with the exception of two nights, I was never without a
+sufficient supply of water. This will show the permanency of the
+different waters, and I see no difficulty in taking over a herd of horses
+at any time; and I may say that one of our party, Mr. Thring, is prepared
+to do so. My party have conducted themselves throughout this long and
+trying journey to my entire satisfaction; and I may particularly mention
+Messrs. Kekwick and Thring, who had been with me on my former expedition.
+During my severe illness every attention and sympathy were shown to me by
+every one in the party, and I herewith beg to record to them my sincere
+thanks.
+
+I may here mention that the accident which occurred to me at the starting
+of the Expedition from Adelaide has rendered my right hand almost useless
+for life.
+
+The Journal concludes with the following letter:
+
+To the Honourable H.B.T. Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands and
+Immigration.
+
+Adelaide, December 18, 1862.
+
+Sir,
+
+For the information of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief, I have the
+honour to report to you my return to Adelaide, after an absence of twelve
+months and thirteen days; and I herewith beg to hand you my chart and
+journals of the Expedition from which I have just returned.
+
+To you, Sir, and the Government, my especial thanks are due for the
+liberal manner in which the supplies were voted, and for the kind and
+ready assistance I at all times experienced. Also to George Hamilton,
+Esquire, Chief Inspector of Police, for the efficient manner in which my
+party was fitted out. The original promoters of my various expeditions,
+Messrs. James Chambers and William Finke, have always shown the most
+lively interest in my success, to which they cheerfully contributed. How
+much I regret the unexpected decease of the first-named gentleman I need
+here hardly state, for he was indeed heart and soul in the result, and
+no one would have felt so proud of my success as my much-lamented and
+best friend James Chambers. To Mr. John Chambers I am also under many
+obligations for assistance in many instances, and I hereby tender him my
+best thanks.
+
+I have the honour, etc.,
+
+J.M. STUART.
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+[FROM THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. JUNE 9,
+1863.]
+
+ON A COLLECTION OF BIRDS FROM CENTRAL AUSTRALIA.
+
+BY JOHN GOULD, F.R.S., ETC.
+
+The Board of Governors of the South Australian Institute having
+liberally forwarded for my inspection a selection from the
+ornithological collection made by Mr. Frederick G. Waterhouse during Mr.
+Stuart's late Exploratory Expedition into Central Australia, I have
+thought the matter of sufficient interest to bring these birds under the
+notice of the Society, the more so as it will enable me to make known
+through our Proceedings a new and very beautiful species of Parrakeet
+pertaining to the genus Polyteles, of which only two have been hitherto
+known. Every ornithologist must be acquainted with the elegant
+P. melanurus and P. barrabandi, and I feel assured that the acquisition of
+an additional species of this lovely form will be hailed with pleasure.
+The specific appellation I would propose for this novelty is alexandrae,
+in honour of that Princess who, we may reasonably hope, is destined at
+some future time to be the Queen of these realms and their dependencies,
+of which Australia is by no means the most inconspicuous.
+
+Polyteles alexandrae, sp. nov.
+
+Forehead delicate light blue; lower part of the cheeks, chin, and throat
+rose-pink; head, nape, mantle, back, and scapularies olive-green; lower
+part of the back and rump blue, of a somewhat deeper tint than that of
+the crown; shoulders and wing-coverts pale yellowish green; spurious wing
+bluish green; external webs of the principal primaries dull blue,
+narrowly edged with greenish yellow; the remaining primaries olive-green,
+edged with greenish yellow; under wing-coverts verditer-green; breast and
+abdomen olive-grey, tinged with vinous; thighs rosy red; upper
+tail-coverts olive, tinged with blue; two centre tail-feathers bluish
+olive-green; the two next on each side olive-green on their outer webs
+and dark brown on the inner ones; the remaining tail-feathers
+tricoloured, the central portion being black, the outer olive-grey, and
+the inner deep rosy red; under tail-coverts olive; bill coral red; feet
+nearly brown.
+
+Total length 14 inches; bill 1/2; wing 7; tail 9; tarsi 7/8.
+
+Habitat. Howell Ponds, Central Australia, 16 degrees 54 minutes 7 seconds
+South latitude.
+
+Remark. This is in every respect a typical Polyteles, having the delicate
+bill and elegantly striped tail characteristic of that form. It is of the
+same size as P. barrabandi, but differs from that species in having the
+crown blue and the lower part of the cheeks rose-pink instead of yellow.
+
+The following is a list of the other species of birds comprised in the
+collection:
+
+Trichoglossus rubritorquis. Rare.
+
+Aprosmictus erythropterus.
+
+Platycercus brownii. Rare.
+
+Struthidea cinerea.
+
+Climacteris melanura.
+
+Pomatorhinus rubecula. Rare.
+
+Cincloramphus cruralis.
+
+Artamus leucopygialis.
+
+Artamus cinereus. Rare.
+
+Colluricincla brunnea.
+
+Petroica bicolor.
+
+Pardalotus rubricatus. Extremely rare: the second specimen seen.
+
+Graucalus melanops.
+
+Tropidorhynchus argenteiceps.
+
+Geopelia cuneata.
+
+Geopelia humeralis.
+
+Erythrogonys cinctus.
+
+...
+
+
+[FROM THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 10,
+1863.]
+
+DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW SPECIES OF FRESHWATER SHELLS COLLECTED BY MR. F.G.
+WATERHOUSE, DURING J. McDOUALL STUART'S OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM ADELAIDE TO
+THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF AUSTRALIA. BY ARTHUR ADAMS, F.L.S., AND G. FRENCH
+ANGAS, CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY.
+
+1. Vivipara waterhousii, Adams & Angas.
+
+V. testa turbinata, globoso-conica, late umbilicata, spira elatiuscula,
+epidermide tenui fusco-viridi obtecta; anfractibus convexis, ad suturas
+subplanatis, faciis tribus vel quatuor angustis olivaceo-viridibus
+transversis ornatis; anfractu ultimo inflato, lineis duabus impressis ad
+peripheriam instructo; apertura ovata, postice subangulata; labio
+simplici; labro acuto.
+
+Long. 2 inches, lat. 1 inch 8 lines.
+
+Habitat. Newcastle Waters, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas):
+
+This fine species most nearly resembles Vivipara ussuriensis, Gerst.; but
+the last whorl is more inflated, and the surface of the shell is not
+malleated or lirate. It is the largest species yet discovered on the
+Australian continent. We have great pleasure in dedicating it to F.G.
+Waterhouse, Esquire, who, under great difficulties during the expedition,
+succeeded in making many valuable additions to science.
+
+2. Vivipara kingi, Adams & Angas.
+
+V. testa turbinata, globoso-conica, umbilicata, spira mediocri erosa
+nodulosa, epidermide tenui pallide fusco-viridi obtecta, ad apicem
+purpurascente; anfractibus convexis, lineolis transversis et
+longitudinalibus elevatis decussatis, anfractu ultimo ad basin sulcis
+impressis spiralibus instructo; apertura ovata, antice subeffusa; labio
+vix reflexo.
+
+Long. 1 inch, lat. 8 lines.
+
+Habitat. King's Ponds, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas).
+
+This is a neat, finely-decussated, concolorous species, with the upper
+whorls nodulous from erosion, as in Vivipara praerosa, Gerst. It is named
+after Mr. Stephen King, one of the gentlemen who accompanied the
+expedition.
+
+3. Melania (Melasma) onca, Adams & Angas.
+
+M. testa fusiformi-turrita; spira elata, conica; epidermide pallide
+olivaceo induta, rufo-fusca, pulcherrime maculata, maculis saepe in
+lineis undulatis longitudinalibus dispositis; anfractibus planis,
+longitudinaliter plicatis, plicis aequalibus regularibus subdistantibus,
+ad suturas nodulosis; apertura oblongo-ovata, antice effusa; labio
+subincrassato; labro simplici, acuto.
+
+Long. 1 inch, lat. 4 lines.
+
+Habitat. Tributary of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas).
+
+A species remarkable both for the elegance of its form and the beauty of
+its painting. The whorls are plicate, with a necklace-like series of
+nodules at the sutures; and the shell is covered with dark red-brown
+spots, suggestive of its specific name.
+
+4. Amphipeplea vinosa, Adams & Angas.
+
+A. testa ovata; spira mediocri, tenui, semipellucida, vinosa; anfractu
+ultimo magno, ventricoso, postice ad suturas gibboso; apertura ovata;
+labio callo tenui mediocri obtecto, columella spiraliter tortuosa; labro
+convexo, margine acuto.
+
+Long. 9 lines, lat. 5 lines.
+
+Habitat. Tributary of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas).
+
+This species may readily be distinguished on account of its peculiar
+vinous colour. The whorls are posteriorly gibbose or tumid at the
+sutures, and the callus is less spreading than in others of the genus.
+
+5. Amphipeplea phillipsi, Adams & Angas.
+
+A. testa ovata; spira elata, acuta, tenui, cornea; anfractu ultimo magno,
+non ventricoso, transversim creberrime striato; apertura oblongo-ovali;
+labio callo tenui expanso obtecto; labro simplici, acuto.
+
+Long. 9 lines, lat. 4 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas).
+
+A neat, horn-coloured, finely transversely striated species, with an
+acute elevated spire. We have named it after Mr. T. Phillips, who has
+assiduously collected many new Australian shells.
+
+6. Physa newcombi, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa ovata, umbilicata; spira mediocri, acuta, ad apicem integra,
+cornea, viridescente aut pallide fulva; anfractibus quinque, convexis,
+saepe plus minusve transversim subliratis; apertura ovata; labio reflexo,
+umbilicum partim tegente; labro vix incrassato, peristomate nigrescente.
+
+Long. 10 lines, lat. 7 lines.
+
+Habitat. Ponds at Mount Margaret (Coll. Angas.)
+
+We have much pleasure in naming this noble Physa after Dr. Newcomb, the
+distinguished American conchologist, who has contributed so much, by his
+researches in the Sandwich Islands, to our knowledge of the genus
+Helicter or Achatinella. The species is widely umbilicated, and the
+peristome is usually dark-coloured.
+
+7. Physa ferruginea, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa ovata, rimata, ferruginea; spira mediocri, apice eroso;
+anfractibus tribus, convexis, simplicibus, transversim crebre
+crenato-striatis; apertura ovata, intus purpurascente; labio tenui, late
+reflexo; labro acuto.
+
+Long. 5 lines, lat. 4 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land, North-west Australia (Coll. Angas.)
+
+This is a small ferruginous species, with the whorls finely transversely
+striated.
+
+8. Physa badia, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa elongato-ovata, imperforata, solida, badia; spira elata, apice
+obtuso eroso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis, longitudinaliter
+strigillatis; apertura elongato-ovata; labio albo, excavato, lirula
+antica subspirali instructo; labro arcuato, in medio producto, intus
+fusco tincto.
+
+Long. 1 inch, lat. 6 lines.
+
+Habitat. Tributaries of Adelaide River, Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.)
+
+A fine, solid, brown species, generally more or less eroded, and with a
+peculiarly strongly plicate columella.
+
+9. Physa olivacea, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa elongato-ovata, imperforata, solidiuscula, olivacea; spira
+elata, attenuata, apice eroso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis;
+apertura ovato-acuta; labio incrassato, flexuoso; labro acuto, margine
+arcuato.
+
+Long. 6 lines, lat. 3 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.)
+
+A neat, olive-coloured species, somewhat resembling in form the British
+Aplexa hypnorum, but without the polished exterior of the latter.
+
+10. Physa concinna, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa ovata, imperforata, solidiuscula, cornea; spira brevi, acuta,
+apice interdum papilloso; anfractibus quinque, convexiusculis;
+transversim striatis; apertura acuto-ovata; labio incrassato, spiraliter
+valde tortuoso; labro intus incrassato et fusco tincto, margine acuto,
+arcuato.
+
+Long. 6 lines, lat. 3 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.)
+
+A pale horn-coloured, somewhat solid species, with a moderately elevated
+spire, acute (not eroded) at the apex, and with the terminal whorls
+sometimes papillary.
+
+11. Physa (Ameria) reevii, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa ovali, postice abrupte truncata, imperforata, cornea; spira
+plana, tenui; anfractibus quatuor, planis, ultimo permagno, postice acute
+angulato, transversim obsolete striato; apertura oblongo-truncata; labio
+antice valde tortuoso; labro postice angulato.
+
+Long. 6 lines, lat. 4 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.)
+
+We have much pleasure in dedicating this singular species to Mr. Lovell
+Reeve, who has evinced much interest in the shells of this group. The
+last whorl is acutely angulate posteriorly, and the spire is tabulated,
+giving to the shell a peculiar truncate appearance.
+
+12. Physa (Ameria) bonus-henricus, Adams & Angas.
+
+P. testa ovata, rimata, tenui, cornea; spira vix elata, plana;
+anfractibus tribus, planis, postice angulatis, ultimo magno, inflato,
+ventricoso, postice subangulato, longitudinaliter plus minusve plicato;
+apertura ovata; labio tenui, subtortuoso; labro simplici, margine
+arcuato.
+
+Long. 4 lines, lat. 2 1/2 lines.
+
+Habitat. Arnhem's Land (Coll. Angas.)
+
+This is a small inflated species, with a short truncate spire. We have
+dedicated it to the founder of the section Ameria, a gentleman well known
+for his deep researches in conchology.
+
+13. Unio (Alasmodon) stuarti, Adams & Angas.
+
+U. testa transversim elongato-ovata, tenui, compressa, epidermide
+olivaceo-fusca induta, postice corrugato-plicata, latere antico breviore
+rotundato, postico longiore oblique subtruncato, margine ventrali
+regulariter arcuato; umbonibus parvis, erosis, dentibus cardinalibus
+elongatis valde divergentibus, postico bifido, antico prominulo; intus
+iridescente.
+
+Alt. 1 1/2 inch, lat. 3 inches 2 lines.
+
+Habitat. Lagoon, Mount Margaret, Central Australia (Coll. Angas.)
+
+This species, which we have named after Mr. J. McD. Stuart, the leader of
+the expedition, is the only Naiad, besides Alasmodon angasana of Lea, yet
+discovered in the regions traversed by the explorers.
+
+...
+
+Description of a new Helix from the interior of Australia, by Dr. L.
+Pfeiffer.
+
+Helix perinflata, Pfr.
+
+T. umbilicata, globosa, solida, striis incrementi rugosis et lineis
+impressis antrorsum descendentibus decussata, isabellino-albida; spira
+convexo-conoidea, apice obtusa; anfr. 4 1/2, ultimus magnus, ventrosus,
+subtus, perinflatus, striis spiralibus obsolete sculptus, antice
+deflexus; apertura diagonalis, lunari-rotundata; perist. breviter
+expansum margine columellari supra umbilicum angustum fornicatim
+dilatato.
+
+Diam. mag. 23 1/2, min. 20, alt. 20 mill. (Coll. Angas.)
+
+Habitat. McDonnell Range, Central Australia. Waterhouse, on Stuart's
+expedition.
+
+
+ENUMERATION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DURING MR. J. McDOUALL STUART'S
+EXPEDITIONS ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT IN 1860, 1861, AND 1862. BY
+FERDINAND MULLER, M.D., Ph.D., F.R.S.
+
+Dilleniaceae.
+
+Pachynema macrum, F.M. Purdie Ponds. Waterhouse.
+Hibbertia glaberrima, F.M. Fragmenta, Phyt. Austr. iii. 1. Brinkley
+Bluff, McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Nymphaeaceae.
+
+Nymphaea gigantea. Hook. Botanical Magazine 4647. Strangways River.
+
+Nelumbium speciosum, W. Sp. Pl. ii. 1258. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Capparideae.
+
+Capparis nummularia, Cand. Prodr. i. 246. Central Australia.
+
+Capparis lasiantha, R. Br in Cand. Prodr. i. 247. Near Central Mount
+Stuart.
+
+Busbeckea umbonata (Capparis umbonata, Lindl. in Mitch. Trop. Austr.
+275). Near Newcastle Waters and Attack Creek. Flowers similar to those of
+B. Mitchellii.
+
+Droseraceae.
+
+Drosera indica, Linn. Sp. Pl. 403. On the Bonney and Finke Rivers and
+Attack Creek, also in Central Australia.
+
+Violaceae.
+
+Ionidium enneaspermum, Vent. Malmais. page 27. Burke Creek. An allied
+species with a blue labellum occurs in the collection gathered at Purdie
+Ponds.
+
+Frankeniaceae.
+
+Frankenia laevis, Linn. Sp. 473 var. Finke River.
+
+Zygophylleae.
+
+Zygophyllum apiculatum, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 373. Stevenson River.
+
+Tribulus terrestris, Linn. Sp. 554. Mount Morphett. A large flowering
+variety with petals 1 inch long. At Marchant Springs, Burke River, and
+Attack Creek.
+
+Malvaceae.
+
+Hibiscus brachysiphonius, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 67. Near the
+Strangways Range.
+
+Hibiscus pentaphyllus, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 13. Newcastle Waters
+and Daly Waters.
+
+Hibiscus radiatus, Cav. Diss. iii. 150, t. 54, fig. 2. Purdie Ponds,
+Newcastle Waters. Attack Creek.
+
+Hibiscus sturtii, Hook. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. page 363. North of
+McDonnell Range.
+
+Hibiscus solanifolius, F.M. Fragm. ii. 116. Mount Denison.
+
+Hibiscus panduriformis, Burm. Fl. Ind. page 151, t. 47, f. 2. Burke
+River.
+
+Gossypium Australe, F.M. Fragm. i. 46. Newcastle Waters, Waterhouse.
+Between Mount Woodcock and the Davenport Ranges.
+
+Gossypium Sturtii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 6. as far north as the Stevenson
+River.
+
+Abutilon tubulosum, All. Cunn. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 390. Burke River.
+
+Abutilon leucopetalum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 12. Daly Waters.
+
+Sida corrugata, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 12. Var. filipoda.
+Attack Creek. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Sida cryphiopetala, F.M. Fragm. ii. 4. Brinkley Bluff, McDonnell Range.
+J.M. Stuart.
+
+Tiliaceae.
+
+Corchorus sidoides, F.M. Fragm. iii. 9. McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Triumfetta plumigera, F.M. Fragm. i. 69. Purdie Ponds. F. Waterhouse.
+
+Buettneriaceae.
+
+Kerandrenia nephrosperma, Benth. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society;
+Seringea nephrosperma, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, 15. Towards
+Arnhem's Land.
+
+Kerandrenia Hookeri, Walp. Annal. Bot. Syst. ii. 164. Near the Roper
+River.
+
+Rulingia loxophylla, F.M. Fragm. i. 68. Towards Arnhem's Land.
+
+Melhania incana, Heyne in Wall. List. 1200. Burke River and Purdie Ponds.
+
+Sterculiaceae.
+
+Brachychiton ramiflorum, R. Br. in Horsf. Plant. Savan. rarior. 234. From
+Burke Creek onward to Arnhem's Land.
+
+Cochlospermeae.
+
+Cochlospermum Gregorii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 71. Strangways River.
+
+Cochlospermum heteronemum, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, 15.
+Strangways River.
+
+Meliaceae.
+
+Owenia acidula, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 304. Central Mount Stuart.
+
+Sapindaceae.
+
+Thouinia variifolia, Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 45. Crawford Range.
+
+Diplopeltis Stuartii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 12. Between Mount Morphett and the
+Bonney River. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Distichostemon phyllopterus, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 306. Purdie
+Ponds. Var. serrulatus; leaves tender, lanceolate, acute, serrulated;
+stamens about 44. Burke River.
+
+Dodonaea lanceolata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 73. Purdie Ponds,
+Waterhouse. Mount Woodcock. Stuart.
+
+Dodonaea platyptera, F.M. Fragm. i. 73. Strangways River.
+
+Dodonaea physocarpa, F.M. Fragm. i. 74. Daly Waters.
+
+Dodonaea microzyga, F.M. Somewhat viscid, almost glabrous; leaves with 1
+to 2 pairs of small obovate-cuneate leaflets; in front rounded, or
+truncate, or retuse, or sometimes 3-toothed, flat at the margin; rachis
+dilated; fruit-bearing pedicels solitary; capsules 3 to 4-celled; valves
+cymbeo-semiorbicular, all around broadly winged; the wing rounded-blunt
+on both extremities; dissepiments persistent with the columella. On the
+River Neale. J.M. Stuart.
+
+A shrub with spreading and rigid branches. Most leaves about 1/2 an inch
+long; leaflets 1 to 2 inches long; flowers unknown; capsule with the
+wings added about 1/2 an inch long, shining, reddish; valves ceding from
+the septa; ripe seeds unknown.
+
+The fruit of this species is almost like that of Dodonaea viscosa.
+
+Mollugineae.
+
+Mollugo trigastrotheca, F.M. Plants indigenous to Victoria, i. 201.
+Arnhem's Land.
+
+Caryophylleae.
+
+Polycarpoea corymbosa, Lam. Mount Samuel. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Portulaceae.
+
+Portulaca oleracea, Linn. Sp. Pl. 638. Common in the interior and in
+North Australia.
+
+Calandrinia Balonnensis, Lindl. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. page 148. River
+Finke.
+
+Phytolacceae.
+
+Codonocarpus cotinifolius, F.M. Plants of Victoria, i. 200. From 300 to
+800 miles north of Adelaide, F. Waterhouse; Central Mount Stuart, J.M.
+Stuart.
+
+Gyrostemon ramulosus, Desf. in Memoir. du Museum, vi. 17 River Finke.
+J.M. Stuart.
+
+Didymotheca pleiococca, F.M. Plants indigenous to Victoria, i. 198.
+Between the River Bonney and Mount Morphett. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Leguminosae.
+
+Acacia retivenea, F.M. Fragm. iii. 128. Short Range.
+
+Acacia dictyophleba, F.M. Fragm. iii. 128. Mount Humphries.
+
+Acacia aneura, F.M. in Linnaea, xxvi. 627. Mulga. Over the whole of
+Central Australia. F. Waterhouse.
+
+Acacia tumida, F.M. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society iii. 144.
+Attack Creek.
+
+Acacia impressa, F.M. in Proceedings of the Linnean Society iii. 133.
+Short Range.
+
+Acacia lycopodifolia, A. Cunn. in Hook. Icon. ii. t. 172. Towards
+Arnhem's Land.
+
+Acacia umbellata, A. Cunn. in Hook. London Journal of Botany i. 378.
+Robinson River. Stuart.
+
+Acacia holosericea, A. Cunn. in Don. Gen. Syst. ii. 407. Near Newcastle
+Waters.
+
+Pithecolobium moniliferum, Benth. in Hook. Journal of Botany iii. 211.
+Arnhem's Land.
+
+Neptunia spicata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 151. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Erythrophloeum Laboucherii, Laboucheria chlorostachya, F.M. in
+Proceedings of the Linnean Society  iii. 159. Newcastle Waters, Stuart;
+Strangways River, Waterhouse.
+
+Cassia venusta, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 165. Newcastle Waters and
+Mount Freeling. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Cassia notabilis, F.M. Fragm. ii. 28. Between the River Bonney and Mount
+Morphett.
+
+Cassia Absus, Linn. Spec. Plant. 537. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Cassia oligoclada, F.M. Fragm. iii. 49. Attack Creek.
+
+Cassia desolata, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852. Central Australia.
+
+Cassia eremophila, A. Cunn. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. ii. 77.
+Central Australia.
+
+Petalogyne labicheoides, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1856. From latitude
+30 degrees South to latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes South. J.M. Stuart.
+Petalogyne cassioides forms merely a variety of this species.
+
+Erythrina biloba, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857, page 21. Common to
+most creeks, from latitude 22 degrees to 19 degrees South. Wood soft,
+corky. J.M. Stuart. Stuart's Bean-tree is a species of Erythrina.
+
+Bauhinia Leichartdtii, F.M. in Transact. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 50.
+Hayward Creek. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Gastrolobium grandiflorum, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 17. Whittington
+Range, J.M. Stuart; Purdie Ponds, where it attains a height of 8 feet,
+Waterhouse.
+
+Gompholobium polyzygum, F.M. Fragm. ii. 29. Between Mount Morphett and
+the Bonney River.
+
+Jacksonia odontoclada, F.M. Between Newcastle Water and Attack Creek.
+J.M. Stuart.
+
+Isotropis atropurpurea, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 16. Attack Creek,
+and between Mount Morphett and the Bonney River. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Leptosema Chambersii, F.M. Essay on the Plants of the Burdekin Expedition
+page 8. Near Davenport Range, and between the Rivers Finke and Stevenson.
+
+Crotalaria medicaginea, Lamb. Dict. ii. 201. Newcastle Waters. J.M.
+Stuart.
+
+Crotolaria dissitiflora, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 386. Newcastle
+Waters and McDonnell Range. Stuart.
+
+Crotalaria Mitchellii, Benth. l. c. 120. Central Australia.
+
+Crotalaria Cunninghami, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Austr. Append. 71.
+Burke Creek, Waterhouse; Mount Humphries, Stuart.
+
+Indigofera hirsuta, L. Sp. Pl. 1862. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Indigofera viscosa, Lam. Encyl. Menth. iii. 247. Brinkley Bluff. Stuart.
+
+Indigofera oxycarpa, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 103. Burke Creek.
+Waterhouse.
+
+Indigofera brevidens, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 385. Central
+Australia.
+
+Indigofera lasiantha, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek,
+page 6. Denison Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Swainsona phacoides, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 363. River Neale.
+Stuart.
+
+Swainsona campylantha, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek.
+Bagot Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Psoralea patens, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 8. Attack Creek. Var.
+cinerea. Mount Kingston.
+
+Psoralea balsamica, F.M. in Proceed. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 55. Attack
+Creek and McDonnell Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Psoralea leucantha, F.M. l. c. iii. 54. Attack Creek.
+
+Clianthus Dampierii, All. Cunn. in Transact. Horticult. Soc. ii. Ser.
+Vol. i. 522. Near Mount Humphries.
+
+Onagreae.
+
+Jussioea suffruticosa, Linn. Sp. Pl. 555. Attack Creek and Strangways
+River.
+
+Rhamnaceae.
+
+Alphitonia excelsa, Reiss. in Endl. Gen. Plant. page 1098. Daly Waters.
+
+Euphorbiaceae.
+
+Euphorbia hypericifolia, Linn. Sp. Plant. Attack Creek.
+
+Flueggea leucopyris, W. Sp. Plant. McDouall Range and Roper River.
+
+Petalostigma quadriloculare, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. ix. 17. Near
+Mount Blyth.
+
+Combretaceae.
+
+Macropteranthes Kekwickii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 151. Newcastle Waters, near
+Ashburton Range.
+
+Terminalia circumalata, F.M. Fragm. Phytogr. Austr. ii. 91. Attack Creek.
+
+Terminalia bursarina, F.M. Fragm. Phytogr. Austr. ii. 149. Newcastle
+Waters.
+
+Rhizophoreae.
+
+Carallia integerrima, Cand. Prodr. iii. 33. Roper River. Waterhouse.
+
+Cucurbitaceae.
+
+Cucumis jucunda, F.M. in Transact. Phil. Inst. Vict. iii. 45. Central
+Australia.
+
+Melastomaceae.
+
+Osbeckia Australiana, Naudin in Annal. des Scien. Naturell. Ser. iii.
+xiv. 59. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Melastoma Novae Hollandiae, Nand. l. c. xiii. 290. Adelaide River.
+
+Myrtaceae.
+
+Carega arborea, Roxb. Coromand. iii. t. 218. Billiatt Springs.
+Waterhouse.
+
+Melaleuca leucadendron. L. Mant. 105. Attack Creek. Roper River.
+
+Melaleuca dissitiflora, F.M. Fragm. iii. 153. Between the Bonney River
+and Mount Morphett.
+
+Eucalyptus setosa, Schauer in Walp. Report, ii. 926. Sandy Scrub near the
+River Bonney.
+
+Calycothrix microphylla, All. Cunn. in Botanical Magazine 3323. Sources
+of the River Roper.
+
+Boeckea polystemonea, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 124. Brinkley Bluff,
+McDonnell Range.
+
+Umbelliferae.
+
+Didiscus glaucifolius, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 395. Var.
+cyanopetalus. Finke River. J.M. Stuart. The colour of the petals varies
+likewise blue and white in Didiscus coeruleus and in one species of
+Dimetopia.
+
+Rubiaceae.
+
+Canthium oleifolium, Hook. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. 397. Var. latifolium.
+Central Australia, in Mulga Scrub. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Compositae.
+
+Calotis Waterhousii. F.M. Purdie Ponds. Waterhouse.
+
+Eurybia Ferresii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 18. t. xviii. Brinkley
+Bluff. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Pluchea ligulata, F.M. Enumeration of Plants of Babbage's Expedition page
+12. Strangways River. Waterhouse.
+
+Monenteles globifer, Cand. Prodr. v. 455. McDonnell Range, Stuart. Attack
+Creek, Waterhouse.
+
+Helichrysum Davenportii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 32. (Sect.
+Acroclinium.) On the River Neale.
+
+Helichrysum Cassianum, Gaudichaud Voyage Freycenet. page 466, t. 87.
+(Sect. Pteropogon.) River Finke. J.M. Stuart. The capitula are rather
+smaller than those figured by Gaudichaud; but in Mr. Oldfield's
+collection from the Murchison River we observe analogous specimens, with
+intermediate gradations. The involucre-scales are sometimes delicately
+rose-coloured.
+
+Senecio Gregorii, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from Cooper Creek, page
+7. Finke River. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Goodeniaceae.
+
+Goodenia grandiflora, Sims, Botanical Magazine 890. Mount Freeling.
+Stuart.
+
+Goodenia hirsuta, F.M. Fragm. iii. 35. Central Australia.
+
+Goodenia heterochila, F.M. Fragm. iii. 142. Newcastle Water.
+
+Goodenia Vilmoriniae, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 19. Between the River
+Bonney and Mount Morphett. Stuart.
+
+Goodenia Ramelii, F.M. Fragm. iii. 20. Attack Creek. Stuart.
+
+Vellega connata, F.M. Transactions of the Phil. Soc. i. 18. Between the
+River Bonney and Mount Morphett. Stuart.
+
+Scaevola microcarpa, Cavan. Icon. vi. 6, t. 509. Towards Central
+Australia.
+
+Lobeliaceae.
+
+Isotoma petroea, F.M. in Linnaea, 1852, page 420. James Range and Hugh
+River.
+
+Asclepiadeae.
+
+Leichardtia Australis, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Australia. ii. Append.
+page 81. Daly Water.
+
+Apocyneae.
+
+Carissa lanceolata, R. Br. Prodr. 468. Strangways River.
+
+Acanthaceae.
+
+Dipterancanthus Australasicus, F.M. Report on Gregory's Plants from
+Cooper Creek, page 8. Near Anna Reservoir.
+
+Rostellularia procumbens, Nees in Wall. Plant. Asiat. rarior. iii. 101.
+Purdie Ponds.
+
+Solaneae.
+
+Solanum pulchellum, F.M. Transact. Phil. Soc. Vict. i. 18. Purdie Ponds.
+
+Soluanum chenopodinum, F.M. Fragm. ii. 165. On Stuart Creek, and between
+Mount Blyth and Mount Fisher. Stuart.
+
+Scrophularineae.
+
+Buchnera linearis, R. Br. Prodr. 437. King's Ponds.
+
+Vandellia plantaginea, F.M. in Trans. Vict. Inst. iii. 62. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Morgania floribunda, Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. Var. glandulosa.
+Central Australia.
+
+Rhamphicarpa adenophora, F.M. Near Attack Creek.
+
+Bignoniaceae.
+
+Spathodea heterophylla, R. Br. Prodr. 470. King's Chain of Ponds.
+
+Tecoma Australis, R. Br. Prodr. 471. Var. angustifolia. McDonnell Range,
+and distributed over a wide range of latitude in the interior, according
+to Mr. Stuart. Tecoma Oxleyi, Tecoma floribunda, and Tecoma diversifolia
+are mere varieties of Tecoma Australis.
+
+Asperifoliae.
+
+Halgania solanacea, F.M. in Hook. Kew Miscell. 1857. page 21. Between
+Bonney River and Mount Morphett.
+
+Halgania strigosa, Schlecht. Linnaea, xx. 640. Brinkley Bluff.
+
+Trichodesma Zeilanicum, R. Br. Prodr. 496. Newcastle Water.
+
+Labiatae.
+
+Prostanthera striatiflora, F.M. in Linn. 1852, page 376. Mount Morphett.
+
+Convolvulaceae.
+
+Evolvulus linifolius, Linn. Sp. Pl. 392. Brinkley Bluff.
+
+Ipomoea reptans, Poir. Encycl. Suppl. iii. 460. A white-flowering
+variety. Purdie Ponds.
+
+Ipomoea pannosa, R. Br. Prodr. 487. Newcastle Water, Attack Creek, and
+Strangways River.
+
+Jasminiae.
+
+Jasminum calcarium, F.M. Fragm. i. 212. Common to most creeks of the
+interior. Stuart. The lobes of the calyx are narrower than in the
+specimens from the Murchison River; the lobes of the corolla likewise
+narrower, and occasionally augmented to nine. The leaflets sometimes
+ovate. Transient forms are sent from Champion Bay by Mr. Walcott.
+
+Myoporinae.
+
+Avicennia officinalis, L. Sp. Pl. page 110. Var. angustifolia. Daly
+Water.
+
+Eremophila Goodwinii, F.M. Report on Babb. Plants, page 17. Mount
+Freeling, Attack Creek, and Mount Samuel. Stuart. Var. angustifolia;
+leaves linear; calyx and pedicel glabrous; corolla outside glabrous or
+scantily hairy. Marchant Springs.
+
+Eremophila Macdonellii, F.M. Report on Babb. Plants, page 18. Var.
+glabra. Valley of the Elizabeth River.
+
+Eremophila Latrobei, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858.
+Arnhem's Land, and near Anna Reservoir. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Eremophila Brownii, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858.
+McDonnell Range. Stuart.
+
+Eremophila Willsii, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. ii. 21, t. xx. River Finke.
+Stuart.
+
+Eremophila Sturtii, R. Br. in Sturt's Central Austr. App. page 85. Daly
+Water.
+
+Eremophila longifolia, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858.
+Strangways Range, Stuart; Billiatt Springs, Waterhouse.
+
+Eremophila maculata, F.M. in Papers of Royal Society of Tasmania 1858.
+Sandy scrub country from the south through Central Australia to Attack
+Creek. Waterhouse.
+
+Verbenaceae.
+
+Clerodendron cardiophyllum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 144. Mulga Scrub, Stuart;
+Daly Water, Waterhouse.
+
+Newcastlia spodiotricha, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 21. Between the
+Victoria River and the Gulf of Carpenteria, from 17 to 19 degrees South
+latitude.
+
+Lentibulariae.
+
+Utricularia fulva, F.M. in Trans. Phil. Inst. iii. 63 Strangways River.
+
+Laurineae.
+
+Gyrocarpus sphenopterus, R. Br. Prodr. page 405. Short Range.
+
+Thymeleae.
+
+Pimelea sanguinea. F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. i. 84. Purdie Ponds.
+
+Proteaceae.
+
+Grevillea mimosoides, R. Br. Prodr. page 380. Roper River.
+
+Grevillea agrifolia, All. Cunn. in R. Br. Suppl. page 24. McDonnell
+Range, Short Range. Var. lancifolia. Central Australia.
+
+Grevillea Sturtii, R. Br. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. page 24.
+Central Mount Stuart. Var. pinnatisecta; segments usually five. Scrub
+near Forster Range. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Grevillea lineata, R. Br. in Sturt's Centr. Austr. Append. page 24. Scrub
+near Forster Range.
+
+Grevillea chrysodendron, R. Br. 379. Billiatt Springs. Waterhouse.
+
+Grevillea refracta, R. Br. Prodr. page 380. Newcastle Water, Billiatt
+Springs, and Short Range.
+
+Grevillea dimidiata, F.M. Fragm. Phyt. Austr. iii. 146. Roper River.
+Waterhouse.
+
+Hakea arborescens, R. Br. Prodr. page 386. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Hakea lorea, R. Br. Suppl. page 25. Central Australia. Bark corky.
+
+Amaranthaceae.
+
+Alternanthera denticulata, R. Br. Prodr. 417. Burke River.
+
+Alternanthera nana, R. Br. Prodr. 417. Burke River.
+
+Gomphrena humilis, R. Br. Prodr. 416. Attack Creek. The upper pair of
+leaves stand either next to the flower-heads or remote from them. The
+same species has been found by Dr. Muller on the Dawson River, and by Mr.
+Fitzalan at Port Denison.
+
+Gomphrena canescens, R. Br. Prodr. 416. Attack Creek. J.M. Stuart.
+(Victoria River and Sturt Creek, F. Muller; Sweer's Island, Henne; Nickol
+Bay, Walcot.) Capsula usually beautifully pink, sometimes purple or
+white. Peduncles occasionally more than 6 inches long; the staminodia
+sometimes excel the anthers in length.
+
+Ptilotus corymbosus, R. Br. Prodr. 415. Var. spicatus. Attack Creek.
+
+Trichinium gracile, R. Br. 415. Tropical Australia.
+
+Trichinium nobile, Lindl. in Mitch. Three Exped. ii. 22. Short Range.
+
+Trichinium brachytrichum, F.M. Fragm. iii. 157. Central Australia. J.M.
+Stuart.
+
+Urticeae.
+
+Ficus Stuartii, F.M. McDonnell Range; Brinkley Bluff. Several other
+undescribed species of fig-trees occur in the collection, but cannot be
+satisfactorily characterised from the material extant.
+
+Cycadeae.
+
+A cycadeous plant, seemingly distinct from the seven Australian species,
+occurs on McDonnell Range, and is mentioned as a palm in the Journal of
+the explorers. Only leaves being now submitted for examination, it
+remains for future researches to throw light on this plant.
+
+Amaryllideae.
+
+Calostemma luteum, Sims, in Botanical Magazine 2101. Mount Margaret.
+Stuart. The edge of the corona is sometimes rather undulated than
+toothed.
+
+Crinum angustifolium, R. Br. 297. From latitude 22 to 32 degrees South.
+J.M. Stuart.
+
+Orchideae.
+
+Cymbidium canaliculatum, R. Br. Prodr. 331. Strangways River.
+
+Commelyneae.
+
+Commelyna ensifolia, R. Br. Prodr. 269. McDonnell Range, and near Mount
+Freeling. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Commelyna agrostophylla, F.M. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Liliaceae.
+
+Bulbine semibarbata, Haw. Revis. 33. Thring River. Stuart.
+
+Gramineae.
+
+Eriachne obtusa, R. Br. Prodr. 184. Short Range.
+
+Ectrosia leporina, R. Br. Prodr. 186. Purdie Ponds.
+
+Perotis rara, R. Br. Prodr. 172. Purdie Ponds, Waterhouse; Short Range,
+Stuart.
+
+Andropogon bombycinus, R. Br. Prodr. 202. Central Australia, McDonnell
+Range.
+
+Chloris ventricosa, R. Br. Prodr. 186. Arnhem's Land.
+
+Lappago racemosa, W. Sp. l. 484. Attack Creek.
+
+Panicum decompositum, R. Br. Prodr. 191. Stevenson River.
+
+Oryza sativa, L. Sp. Pl. Newcastle Water. J.M. Stuart.
+
+Pappophorum commune, F.M. Enumeration of Greg. Plants from Cooper Creek,
+page 10. Central Australia.
+
+Cyperaceae.
+
+Hypaelyptum microcephalum, R. Br. Prodr. 221. Attack Creek.
+
+Filices.
+
+Marsilia quadrifolia, L. Sp. Pl. Var. hirsuta. Nardoo. Through Central
+and North Australia, on localities subject to inundation.
+
+Lygodium semibipinnatum, R. Br. Prodr. 162. Roper River.
+
+Blechnum Orientale, L. Sp. Pl. 1535. River Adelaide. This fern was not
+previously recorded as existing in Australia.
+
+Cheilanthes tenuifolia, Swartz Filic. 129. River Roper, Mount Freeling.
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+A'Beckett's Pool.
+
+Accident:
+to instruments.
+to plans.
+to Mr. Stuart.
+to Kekwick.
+
+Adelaide River:
+Valley of the.
+
+Alligator's skull found.
+
+Anderson Creek.
+
+Andamoka.
+
+Ann Creek.
+
+Anna:
+Creek.
+Mount.
+Reservoir.
+
+Ant-hills.
+
+Ants.
+
+Arden, Mount.
+
+Arthur, Mount.
+
+Ascent of:
+Brinkley Bluff.
+Mount Denison.
+Mount Strzelecki.
+Mount Primrose.
+Mount Stuart.
+
+Ashburton Range.
+
+Attack Creek.
+
+Attraction, Mount.
+
+Auld's Chain of Ponds.
+
+Auriferous appearances.
+
+Babbage, Mr.
+
+Bagot Range.
+
+Baker Creek.
+
+Bamboo.
+
+Barker's party, Mr.
+
+Barker Creek.
+
+Barkley Mount.
+
+Barrow:
+Creek.
+Springs.
+
+Bectimah Gaip.
+
+Beddome, Mount.
+
+Beda.
+
+Ben:
+Mount.
+Illness of.
+Faithfulness of.
+
+Bennett Springs.
+
+Beresford Springs.
+
+Billiatt Springs.
+
+Birds.
+
+Bishop Creek.
+
+Blue-Grass Swamp.
+
+Blyth:
+The.
+Mount.
+
+Bonney Creek.
+
+Bottle:
+Hill.
+Mr. Stuart leaves one.
+
+Brinkley Bluff.
+
+British Flag planted.
+
+Brodie, Mr.
+
+Browne, Mount.
+
+Burial in trees.
+
+Burke Creek.
+
+Cabbage Palms.
+
+Carruthers Creek.
+
+Centre of Australia.
+
+Central Mount Stuart.
+
+Chambers:
+Bay.
+Creek.
+Pillar.
+River.
+
+Charles:
+Mount.
+Creek.
+
+Cockatoos.
+
+Coffee, A substitute for.
+
+Coglin, The.
+
+Comet, A.
+
+Cooper Creek.
+
+Copper, Indications of.
+
+Cork-tree.
+
+Coulthard.
+
+Coward Springs.
+
+Crawford Range.
+
+Cucumber:
+a cure for scurvy.
+boiled.
+
+Daly:
+Water.
+Range.
+
+Daniel, Mount.
+
+Davenport:
+Creek.
+Range.
+
+Deception, Mount.
+
+Decoy Hill.
+
+Delusion, Mount.
+
+Denison, Mount.
+
+Dingo, The.
+
+Douglas, The.
+
+Dutton, Mount.
+
+Eclipse of sun.
+
+Elizabeth:
+The.
+Springs.
+
+Ellen Creek.
+
+Emerald Springs.
+
+Esther, Mount.
+
+Expedition, Victorian.
+
+Eyre Lake.
+
+Fan-palm.
+
+Fanny:
+The.
+Springs.
+
+Ferguson's, Mr.:
+Station.
+Creek.
+
+Fern, A New.
+
+Figg, Mount.
+
+Finke:
+River.
+Mount.
+
+Finniss Springs.
+
+Fish:
+shooting.
+
+Fisher Creek.
+
+Flowers, New.
+
+Forster Range.
+
+Fowler Bay.
+
+Francis Ponds.
+
+Freeling:
+Mount.
+Springs.
+
+Freemasonry among the natives.
+
+Frew:
+The.
+Water-hole.
+
+Frost.
+
+Gairdner Lake.
+
+George Creek.
+
+Gibson's Station, Mr.
+
+Gilbert Creek.
+
+Gleeson Creek.
+
+Glen's Station, Mr.
+
+Goodiar Creek.
+
+Goolong Springs.
+
+Goose, A peculiar.
+
+Goyder, Mount.
+
+Grape, Wild.
+
+Gregory:
+Mr.
+Creek.
+
+Gwynne, Mount.
+
+Hall, Mount.
+
+Hamilton:
+Mount.
+Springs.
+
+Hanson:
+Creek.
+Bluff.
+Range.
+
+Harvey, Mount.
+
+Harris, Mount.
+
+Hawker:
+Creek.
+Mount.
+Springs.
+
+Hay, Mount.
+
+Hayward Creek.
+
+Head's Range.
+
+Helpman:
+Mount.
+Lieutenant.
+
+Hergott Springs.
+
+Hope, The Spring of.
+
+Hostile natives.
+
+Hot wind.
+
+Howell Ponds.
+
+Hugh:
+Mount.
+The.
+
+Humphries, Mount.
+
+Hunter Creek.
+
+James Range.
+
+Jarvis' Station.
+
+Ice.
+
+Illness of:
+Mr. Stuart.
+Kekwick.
+Waterhouse.
+
+Incantation scene.
+
+Indiarubber-tree.
+
+Insubordination.
+
+Inundation, An.
+
+John Range.
+
+Iron tomahawk.
+
+Kangaroo mice.
+
+Katherine, The.
+
+Kekwick:
+Good conduct of.
+Accident to.
+Illness of.
+Ponds.
+Springs.
+Large Group of Springs.
+
+King's Chain of Ponds.
+
+Kingston, Mount.
+
+Lawson Creek.
+
+Leichardt, Mount.
+
+Levi's:
+Boundary.
+Station.
+
+Levi, Mount.
+
+Lily:
+A new.
+Marsh.
+
+Lindsay Creek.
+
+Louden Spa.
+
+Loveday Creek.
+
+Macaw.
+
+Malay type of natives.
+
+Mann, Mount.
+
+Marchant Springs.
+
+Margaret:
+The.
+Mount.
+
+Mary, The.
+
+Masters lost and found.
+
+McDouall Range.
+
+McEllister Springs.
+
+McGorrerey Ponds.
+
+McKinlay Creek.
+
+McLaren Creek.
+
+Miller's Water.
+
+Milne Springs.
+
+Morphett:
+Creek.
+Mount.
+
+Mudleealpa.
+
+Muller, Mount.
+
+Murchison Range.
+
+Mussel Camp.
+
+Nash Spring.
+
+Natives:
+camping-place.
+fondness for fishhooks.
+Freemasons.
+
+Native:
+villages.
+stories in Adelaide about.
+weapons.
+wells.
+
+Neale:
+The.
+River, West.
+
+Newcastle Water.
+
+Nuts, Poisonous.
+
+O'Halloran, Mount.
+
+Opossum, Forster catches an.
+
+Oratunga.
+
+Owen Springs.
+
+Palm-tree, A remarkable.
+
+Parrots.
+
+Parla.
+
+Parry Springs.
+
+Pascoe Springs.
+
+Pasley Ponds.
+
+Peake:
+The.
+Mount.
+
+Pernatta.
+
+Phillips Creek.
+
+Pigeons.
+
+Pigfaces.
+
+Planting the flag.
+
+Poisonous plants.
+
+Porter Hill.
+
+Powell Creek.
+
+Polly:
+Lameness of.
+Madness of.
+has a foal.
+Springs.
+
+Primrose:
+Mount.
+Springs.
+
+Priscilla Creek.
+
+Purdie Ponds.
+
+Rennie, Mount.
+
+Reynolds Range.
+
+Roper River.
+
+Rose, A new.
+
+Ross, The.
+
+Samuel, Mount.
+
+Santo, Mount.
+
+Scurvy.
+
+Sea, First view of the.
+
+Separation Camp.
+
+Shells.
+
+Shillinglaw, Mount.
+
+Short Range.
+
+Smith, the deserter.
+
+Stevenson:
+The.
+Mount.
+
+Stirling, The.
+
+Stow, Mount.
+
+Strangways:
+Mount.
+Range.
+River.
+Springs.
+
+Streaky Bay.
+
+Strzelecki, Mount.
+
+Stuart, Central Mount.
+
+Sturt:
+Captain.
+Mount.
+Plains.
+Range.
+
+Sullivan:
+lost for three days.
+Creek.
+
+Taylor, The.
+
+Tennant Creek.
+
+Thring Creek.
+
+Tide Creek, Adelaide River.
+
+Tomahawk:
+Iron.
+Stone.
+
+Tomkinson Creek.
+
+Torrens Lake.
+
+Traces of:
+a native battle.
+natives.
+
+Tree:
+New.
+Palm.
+India-rubber.
+Cork.
+Orange.
+
+Trees marked.
+
+Turkeys.
+
+Turtle, A live.
+
+Vegetable, Useful.
+
+Victoria Expedition.
+
+Wallaby.
+
+Warburton, Major.
+
+Warwick Range.
+
+Waterbags, Failure of.
+
+Waterfall, A beautiful.
+
+Waterfowl.
+
+Waterhouse:
+Illness of.
+Range.
+River.
+
+Waterlily, A new.
+
+Watson Creek.
+
+Watts, Mount.
+
+Wealaroo.
+
+Whittington Range.
+
+Wicksteed Creek.
+
+William:
+Creek.
+Springs.
+
+Wind, A hot.
+
+Wingilpin.
+
+Woodcock, Mount.
+
+Woodforde's:
+encounter with natives.
+Creek.
+
+Yarraout.
+
+Yarra Wirta.
+
+Yolticowrie.
+
+Younghusband, Mount.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Explorations in Australia, The
+Journals of John McDouall Stuart, by John McDouall Stuart
+
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