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diff --git a/8900.txt b/8900.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a4e4abb --- /dev/null +++ b/8900.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3263 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The London and Country Brewer + +Author: Anonymous + + +Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8900] +[This file was first posted on August 22, 2003] +Last updated: April 30, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER *** + + + + +Produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders + + + + + + +THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER + +By Anonymous + +1736 + + + +Containing an Account, + + +I. Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and + Manures for the Improvement thereof. + +II. Of making good Malts. + +III. To know good from bad Malts. + +IV. Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts. + +V. Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing. + +VI. Of Grinding Malts. + +VII. Of Brewing in general. + +VIII. Of the _London_ Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and Brown + Ales. + +IX. Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing. + +X. Of the Nature and Use of the Hop. + +XI. Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little + Room, and with a few Tubs. + +XII. Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure. + +XIII. Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome + Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected. + +XIV. Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and + relishing Malt Liquors. + +XV. Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease + their Strength. + +XVI. Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales. + +XVII. Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks. + +XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance. + +XIX. Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors. + +XX. Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of + Buying Malt Liquors. + +To which is added, + +XXI. A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong _October_ Beer. + By an Ingenious Hand. + + + +By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at _London_, but for +twenty Years past has resided in the Country. + + + +The SECOND EDITION, Corrected. + + + +LONDON + +Printed for Messeurs Fox, at the _Half-Moon and Seven Stars_, in +_Westminster-Hall_. M.DCC.XXXVI. + +[Price Two Shillings.] + + + + + +THE PREFACE. + + +The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have +for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant +Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing +injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great +Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy +Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing, +Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body +and Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing +Malt Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a +considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food; +so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of +the Body. + +This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our +Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either +to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or +take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill +Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers. + +Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several +Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and +preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt +itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I +thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome +Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled +People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's +Health. + +_I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard +both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly +ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been +partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time +very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the +Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in +making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a +matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled +too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this +Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one +ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode +the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties +that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink; +for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding +Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort +by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second +Book made appear. + +I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite +in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high +Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and +therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have +been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities +of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice. + +So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an +Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error +of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot +Water on the Malt. + +The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and +Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in +some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt +Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without +the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint. + +The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the +ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here +exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily +prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter. + +By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered, +I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge +of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in +Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great +Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our +Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will +come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own +Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but +enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly +pleasant, fine, strong and healthful. + +I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being +neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that +their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not +write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by +Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of +the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here +plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost +finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth +how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that +will be of considerable Service to the World._ + + + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAP. I. + + +_Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures for +the Improvement thereof_. + + +This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that +produce those fine _British_ Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other Nation +can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the several +Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also attended with +a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their several +particulars, and first of Soils. + +This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and +thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising +therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both +ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat +like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of +contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much +better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are +better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish +Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower, +which occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at _Dunstable_, +_Tring_ and _Dagnal_ from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly +Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference +in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as +appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas +in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &c. For our Mother Earth, as +it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables, is +composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein. +And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege +for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his +advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several +natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural +Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is +obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy +Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and +nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under +the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &c. are +sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads, +Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come +off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of _London_ and +other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as those +produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures. + +There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some +of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the +same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous +qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its +best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great +quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they +become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so +affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making +such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open +Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year +called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick +and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part +of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose +parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making +a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and +afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables +that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things +that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from +the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in +Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the +Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables, +and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the +Creation supplies. + +Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor +lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts +that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt +of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof +both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes +very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry +Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the +Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much +encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are +often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or +less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in +which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves +its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that +are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the +nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but +when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come +into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books, +entituled, _Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_, and, _The Practical +Farmer_; both writ by _William Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ near +_Hempstead_ in _Hertfordshire_, not only for Barley, but other Grains. + +But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure; +and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged +or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by +its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if +it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will +be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt, +because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that +which was inned dry. + +Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest, +another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at +once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and +the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest, +the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of +it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these +irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the +ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into +the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews, +makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the +assistance of such steeping. + +Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and +small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis +therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but +take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this +makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the +Vale of _Ailsbury_, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams, to +sow in Chalks, Gravels, &c. Others every second Year will go from hence to +_Fullham_ and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows there on +Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this Corn, and +whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and white +Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty Sorts. + + + + +CHAP. II + + +_Of making_ Malts. + + +As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to +treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden +or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered +with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell; +here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve +Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for +that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains, +requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on +Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly, +when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it +is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush +it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a +little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is +a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt +will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause +deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of +the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then +the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and +better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in +temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put +into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the +Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the +Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one +or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or +eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always +keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd; +and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four +or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air, +which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so +must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye +and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick, +ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire; +but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be +turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is +warm, as in _March, April_ or _May_; and when it is fixed and the Root +begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully kept often +turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive, and this +is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's Art and +Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and turning +the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is, that the +Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if it does, +the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left behind but +the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree and fit for +the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let it lye +twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will much +improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time it +must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is +overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause +the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be +put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature +of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than +the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a +sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is +often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry +about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should +be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The +time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according +to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often +sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in +the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and +where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed, +it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap, +but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put +it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it. + +There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron +Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The +Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled +one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel, +for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and +jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or +scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the +body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over +it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used +quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and +perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled: +Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by +burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as +formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to +scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the +Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only +turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for +drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more +leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the +Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all. + +Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal, +Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed all +others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because it +sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that Wood, +Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but there is a +difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being large +Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the Sulphur +is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this when it is +truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but one Cinder +as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of this one is +capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often by the +negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by some +wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from _Swanzey_ +in _Pembrokeshire_, being of a hard stony substance in small bits +resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its +sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward +parts of the grainy body: In _Devonshire_ I have seen their Marble or grey +Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme makes, and +both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet moderate and +certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it. + +Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all. + +Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five +Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will +Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt, +as the Pea will. + +I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts +in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done +him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason +others won't like such a mixture. + +But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to +come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is +thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but +will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once +done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it +was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a +little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not +thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt, +when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the +Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was +the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid +beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from +Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick +crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such +unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of +until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the +Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good +Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to +happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and +Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the +Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on +the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its +Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having +its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts +contribute to as well as the Hop. + +There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by +Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so +mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its +black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be +entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and +makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a +small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer +despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible, +because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it, +by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made +with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of +Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale +of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers +in the Body. + +Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in +the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the +Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a +strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where +there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its +inebriating quality. + +There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen, +Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here +a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak, +soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a +strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more +practised then ever. + + + + +CHAP. III. + + +_To know good from bad_ Malts. + + +This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and +private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the +Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be +Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived +towards _Ware_, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two hundred +Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without which 'tis +impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I know but of +few Ways, _First_, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn across between +the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it tasteth mellow +and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower all its +length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; _Secondly_, By +Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it +swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true +Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own +this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd, +split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an +allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a +judgment. _Thirdly_, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and steely, +but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board, will mark +and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. _Fourthly_, Malt that is not +rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and weigh heavier +than that which is true Malt. + + + + +CHAP. IV. + + + _Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown_ Malts. + + +The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has +had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due +care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full +quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown +high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings +_per_ Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious +sort to the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and +nearest to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and +Balsamick quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of +this Malt bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of +the great Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and +binding Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt, +either in Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters +in brewing of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that +which is dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is +very much in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant, +its taste agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd +by many as the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or +soft waters, or a mixture of both. + +The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so +hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often +so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its +essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant +Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he +does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion +the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and +is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts, +being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the +Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made +from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this +reason the _London_ Brewers mostly use the _Thames_ or _New River_ waters +to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature, whereby it agrees +with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the well or other hard +Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and a But-beer that +will keep very well five or six Months, but after that time it generally +grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve Bushels allowed to the +Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly. + +Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright +pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak +to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish, +that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or +Fern, &c. The Coak or _Welch_ Coal also makes more true and compleat Malt, +as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its fire gives both +a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all their Parts +gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained such a +Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts of the +Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make such +fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my +Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty +Miles from _London_. + +Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best +tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat, +Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of +the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more +uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a +moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the +taste of the smoak. + +Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed is +not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few can +bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its +strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of +_England_, and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used +in _London_ for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it +sold for two Shillings _per_ Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt, +nor was this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its +Brewers, for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the +Age of the Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were +used in its Preservation. + +The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from +the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed, +as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our +Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty. + +At _Bridport_ in _Dorsetshire_, I knew an Inn-keeper use half Pale and +half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my Palate the +best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted for, in that +the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed, must produce +a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will reduce those +extreams to a proper Quality. + + + + +CHAP. V. + + +_Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And first of +Well-waters_. + + +Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a +Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and +is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of +the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious +and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies, +and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer +every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those +Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr_.Mead_ observes, some waters are so loaded +with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are carried, +in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that petrifying +nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the _Parisians_ +have been instances of, by using this sort of water out of the River +_Seine_. And of this Nature is another at _Rowel_ in _Northamptonshire_, +which in no great distance of time so clogs the Wheel of an overshot Mill +there, that they are forced with, convenient Instruments to cut way for +its Motion; and what makes it still more evident, is the sight of those +incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that the hard Well-waters are the +occasion of, by being often boiled in them: And it is further related by +the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted with frequent returns of +violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of _Van Helmont_, only by +leaving off drinking Beer brewed with Well-water; It's true, such a fluid +has a greater force and aptness to extract the tincture out of Malt, than +is to be had in the more innocent and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this +very reason it ought not, unless upon meer necessity, to be made use of; +this Quality being owing to the mineral Particles and alluminous Salts +with which it is impregnated. For these waters thus saturated, will by +their various gravities in circulation, deposit themselves in one part of +the animal Body or other, which has made some prove the goodness of Water +by the lightness of its body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of +the _London_ Shops, in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky, +Hypochondriack, and other ill Effects of the Clayey and other gross +Particles of stagnating Well-waters, and the calculous Concretions of +others; and therefore such waters ought to be mistrusted more than any, +where they are not pure clear and soft or that don't arise from good +Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally allowed to afford the best of +all the Well sorts. + +Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro' +which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At +_Uppingham_ in _Rutland_, their water is said to come off an +Allum-rock, and so tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is +easily tasted at the first Draught. And at _Dean_ in _Northamptonshire_, I +have seen the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of +a Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water +that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally +accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in +that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but +undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may +accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in, +great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at _Ailsbury_ to soften their +water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp that it +will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its Original +State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the Alcalous +soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses. + +River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying, +saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring +sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the +Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's +heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict, +that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of +them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to +avoid two that run cross a Road in _Bucks_ and _Hertfordshire_: But in +their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy +mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new +fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the _Thames_ +water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the +hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall +hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time, +when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a +Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of +Cattle, &c. and in good Air, as that of _Barkhamstead St. Peters_ in +_Hertfordshire_ is; it may then justly claim the name of a most excellent +water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same quantity +of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the _Thames_ +has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as +Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable +degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn +fine in a few Days after Tunning. + +Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best +Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of +Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very +agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but +for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well, +as being apt to putrify the soonest of any. + +Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are +good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the +water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an +open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it +then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that +of _Blew-pot_ Pond on the high Green at _Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ and +many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of the +soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or full +of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as to +force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of all +others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are so +low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to take +out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant waters +are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so far +scrutinized into the prime Cause of our _British_ malady the Scurvy, as to +affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating waters, and +especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are about +_Londonderry_ and _Amsterdam_, for that where the waters are worst, there +this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings they have put it +out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms that are rank'd +under this general Name, if they don't take their beginning from such +water, do own it to be their chief Cause. + + + + +CHAP. VI. + + + _Of Grinding_ Malts. + + +As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily +deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the +good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the +Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will +cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just +broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate +its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then +an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same +Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are +likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they +use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air, +that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its +harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt +acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may +be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition, +and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more +freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than +if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better +tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the +leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they +are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them +what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt +so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the +great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but +now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by +the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge +of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do +before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of +the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the +Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at +_London_ I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that +with one Horse would grind [blank space] quarters an Hour, But in the +Country I use a steel Hand-mill, that Cost at first forty Shillings; +which will by the help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an +Hour, and will last a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There +are some old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries +for and prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the +Corn's body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the +Malt so broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and +regular Power to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more +confin'd within its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in +Use for their great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is +frequently done by some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor +as soon as it is ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a +Day or two, that the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it +received from the Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste. + + + + +CHAP. VII. + + +_Of Brewing in general_. + + +Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated +Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been +concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the +Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it +no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little; +from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and +Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed +unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided +thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some +degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician +enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones, +Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we +consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted +Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again +with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be +very pernicious to the _British_ human Body especially, which certainly +suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of Flesh that +we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and therefore are +more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick mucilaginous +Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one makes a +lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or less +thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's fine. +The late Curious _Simon Harcourt_ Esq; of _Penly_, whom I have had the +honour to drink some of his famous _October_ with, thought the true Art of +Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to Cost him near twenty Pounds +to have an old Days-man taught it by a _Welch_ Brewer, and sure it was +this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts afterwards in the Brewing +of that which he called his _October_ Beer. So likewise in _London_ they +lay such stress on this Art, that many have thought it worth their while +to give one or two hundred Guineas with an Apprentice: This Consideration +also made an Ambassador give an extraordinary Encouragement to one of my +Acquaintance to go over with him, that was a great Master of this Science. +But notwithstanding all that can be said that relates to this Subject, +there are so many Incidents attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled +several expert Men to account for their difference, though brewed by the +same Brewer, with the same Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and +Town, and tapp'd at the same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and +well Tasted, while the others have not had any worth drinking, now this +may be owing to the different Weather in the same Month, that might cause +an Alteration in the working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be +so convenient, or that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &c. +But it has been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer +constantly, and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in +dry Vaults or Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been +generally good. And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time +is required to ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in +Hogsheads, because the greater quantity must have the longer time; so also +a greater quantity will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on +this account the Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all +others; but all under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep +their Bodies. The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as +being generally set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast, +that greatly contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits +of a most convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by +its broad level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and +preserving Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the +long Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this +time in greater Reputation than ever in _London_, and the Home-brew'd +Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in +its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded +with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short +Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter +Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the +Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and +staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not +admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that +the handful of Salt which the _Plymouth_ Brewers put into their Hogshead, +hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice of. + + + + +CHAP. VIII. + + +_The_ London _Method of Brewing_. + + +In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a +considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common +Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well +Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and +Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice +there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz. + +_For Stout Butt Beer_. + + +This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often +sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the +wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the _London_ +Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first +Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd +over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very +hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be +in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the +Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted, +look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the +Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the +Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel +of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any; +immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the +Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this +they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square +Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom +into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an +Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there +is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash +Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash +again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an +Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a +half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd +with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite +Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made +after the Stout. + + +_For Brewing strong brown Ale called_ Stitch. + + +This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer +Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and +is sold for Eight-pence _per_ Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun, and +is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular +Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by [Blank space] _Medlicot_ +Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him +very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards. + + +_For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer_. + + +They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a +greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the +fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the +Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same +Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only +boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer +than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is +often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is +wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much +fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose. + + +_For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers_. + + +As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or +Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown +Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the +rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so +also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more +Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing +pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second +Book of Brewing. + + +_For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer_. + + +On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it, +and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into +the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar, +and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost +scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the +Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the +Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first +wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be +Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way +in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because +it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way +for the hotter Liquor that is to follow. + + +_The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from +Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common +Brewhouse_. + + +For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and +sold for thirty Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or strong +brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and +Fourpence _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel and +a half or more, at sixteen Shillings _per_ Barrel, that holds thirty two +Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six Barrels off a +Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Pale +and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling _per_ Gallon from +the Tun. + + + + +CHAP. IX. + + +_The Country or private way of Brewing_. + + +Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised +in _Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle_, and many other Places; but +evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most +serviceable both in Country and _London_ private Families. And first, I +shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more +than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the +former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more +Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person +can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its +united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less +charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the +private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt +ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better +clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast +and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so +well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too +forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do; +he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some +measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a +private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full +thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran +or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in +the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the +water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else +lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the +steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in +about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel +of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an +Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just +mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the +old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that +Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence +or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will +easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the +after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run +thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the +water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the +Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or +small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to +slow that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which +will occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially +if the _Dundle_ way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small +as a Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the +Barrel: Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then +the second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and +drawn out with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the +Malt is done, then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt +to the four Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be +spread all over it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or +other Cloths to keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it +stand two or three Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a +Bowl of the boiling water in the Copper as is before directed, and so +continue to do till as much is run off as will almost fill the Copper; +then in a Canvas or other loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops +and boil them half an Hour, when they must be taken out, and as many +fresh ones put in their room as is judged proper to boil half an Hour +more, if for Ale: But if for keeping Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones +should be put in at every half Hour's end, and Boil an Hour and a half +briskly: Now while the first Copper of wort is Boiling, there should be +scalding water leisurely put over the Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off, +that the Copper may be filled again immediately after the first is out, +and boiled an Hour with near the same quantity of fresh Hops, and in the +same manner as those in the first Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for +small Beer may be all cold water put over the Grains at once, or at +twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with the Hops that has been boil'd +before. But here I must observe, that sometimes I have not an +opportunity to get hot water for making all my second Copper of wort, +which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply what was wanting. +Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead of Ale with the +two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer with the other +two, but this more or less according to please me, always taking Care to +let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and cool in four +or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many Hogsheads of +midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong enough for +myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping Beer, the +first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the rest +small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of for +strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according to +the _London_ Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with the +Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper of +good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they +take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome +the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt +or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing +done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most +necessary in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or +more Brands ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a +burnt Toast of Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that +this must not be done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood; +lest it does more harm than good. + + +_Another Way_. + + +When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the +former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in +it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be +ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt: +This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring +of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or +_October_ Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was +for Ale, or Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the +Copper by remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and +kept a Week or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to +it, and may be brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this +as well as in the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of +wort into the Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes +absolutely fine and clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good: +Others will reserve this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it +there a Week in Winter, or two or three Days in Summer, according to +Conveniency, by putting fresh water every Day to it, and use it instead of +water for the first Mash, alledging it is better so than boiled, because +by that it is thickened and will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a +Benefit to a Victualler that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small +Beer; because for such small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there +is no Excise to be pay'd. + + +_For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer_. + + +There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it +from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other +Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further +enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or +Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and +wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but +Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are +there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no +small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their +Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this, +and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this _Item_ and +prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before any +other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile +small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear, +put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then +throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it +stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot +and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency +allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold +instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by +putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of +Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted +twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit. +Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a +Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle +gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had +more leisure to brew better. + + +_A particular way of Brewing strong_ October _Beer_. + + +There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly +after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all +his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let +the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the +former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put +again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this +for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and +put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for +his _October_ Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods at +once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an Hour +undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot water +put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was observed +that his _October_ Beer was the most famous in the Country, but his Grains +good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out all or most of +their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and once his Beer +did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost, yet when the +weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards proved very +good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in the Vat, +and was never tapp'd under three Years. + +This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the +Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the +same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an +opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more +than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his +_October_ or _March_ Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of _Penly +October_ Beer is at this time well known not only throughout +_Hertfordshire_, but several other remote Places, and truly not without +desert, for in all my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a +clear amber Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what +excell'd all was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his +Viands and this _October_ Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I +remember his usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my +_October_, and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not +only the rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even +in advance, whenever they had Business at _Penly_, as expecting a +refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a +good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater +Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the +Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap. + + +_Of Brewing Molosses Beer_. + + +Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in +the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer +when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of +fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse, +and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings _per_ Quarter, and like to be +so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable excellent +Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book intituled, +_Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_: There is no great danger of that, +Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very unwholsome, +because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of Treacle +into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as very +probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker: Tho' +in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have known +some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does not +breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep open +the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose they +put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first mixing +it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops or more +one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons. + + +_A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or_ October _Beer +from_ Nottingham. + + +His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for +four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he +puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam +is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot +water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will +bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run +leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as +can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling; +when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in +the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the +next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or +Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or +Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be +returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless +the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it +will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen +Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over +he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is +running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock +spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty +one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub, +wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the +second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper +boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former +was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out +into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first +wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden +Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to +preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then +upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas +or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the +Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away +very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues +boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged, +and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very +thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and +boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity +of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will +be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with +some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as +the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four +Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if +necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will +make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding +of Hogs. + + +_Observations on the foregoing Method_. + + +The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet +three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is +expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of +water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned. + +By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt +is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way +made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides +the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream +than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that +discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual +running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of +sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook +is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the +very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink. + +This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort +from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his +first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and +when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick +to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled +or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the +Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the +Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of +putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect +Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin. + +By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is +thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so +agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping _October_ +Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter +is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer +is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of +Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more +strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some +Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept. + +I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a +standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break +or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an +Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and +Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that +boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the +thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first +away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye +in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole +cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the +wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity +may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in +the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss +than Profit. + +I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop +in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great +damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the +spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation. + + + + +CHAP. X. + + +_The Nature and Use of the Hop_. + + +This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on +the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient, +and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that +falacious Notion is obviated by Dr_.Quincy_ and others, who have proved +that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that +mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a +dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been +infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old +ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on +as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature, +composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and +with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the +Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure +Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both +ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great +Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak +Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two +Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three +for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of +Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And +according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of +the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour, +then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of +fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an +opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself +the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the +Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the +same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but +observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the +Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's +true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater +quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the +desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time +will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider +their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in +their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be +much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as +well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to +give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that +many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt +Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not +lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little +Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they +acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have +been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as +they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my +Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it +would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be +in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling +Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most +general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in +its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order. + +After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have +thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same +time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve +to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been +sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it +is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless. + +When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they +buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others _Daucus_ or wild +Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor +People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their +wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb _Horehound_, which indeed is a +fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons. + +But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite, +as I have already done of a _London_ one, and that is, of an Arch Fellow +that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to save all +the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean, then +would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of +_Horehound_ on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and +bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them +for new Hops. + +Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose +Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the +Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body; +they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy, +valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but +in raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper, +and afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before +hinted. + +Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is +greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany +both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to +tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding +the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be +so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes +our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are +made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be +planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their +Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice. + +For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops +that were then two Shillings _per_ Pound, use but a quartern instead of a +Pound, the rest he supplied with _Daucus_ Seeds; but to be more +particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several +Impositions. _First_, He underboil'd his Wort to save its Consumption: +_Secondly_, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and _Thirdly_, He beat +the Yeast in for some time to encrease the strength of the Drink; and all +these in such a _Legerdemain_ manner as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant +Drinker to such a degree as not to suspect the Fraud, and that for these +three Reasons: _First_, The underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste +than ordinary, was esteemed the Produce of a great allowance of Malt. +_Secondly_, The _Daucus_ Seed encreased their approbation by the fine +Peach flavour or relish that it gives the Drink; and _Thirdly_, The Yeast +was not so much as thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor. +These artificial Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so +prevalent with the Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known +this Victualler have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had +much more wholsome at the same time; for the _Daucus_ Seed tho' it is a +Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort +it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the +clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a +Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing +Obstructions of the _Viscera_, and particularly of the Liver and Kidneys, +as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops are a +Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder. + + + + +CHAP. XI. + + +_Of Boiling Malt Liquors_. + + +Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling _October_ +Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that +an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some +Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all +sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be +curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but +afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean +and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard +not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this +will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its +being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has +the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays, +then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because +it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort. + +It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in +the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it +should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less +than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the +Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer. + +Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if +too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be +unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest +our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other +misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to +staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full +time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then +thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the +Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be +right clear in the Barrel; an _Item_ sufficient to shew the mistake of all +those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or three +Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than good +to the Drink. + +But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I +have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good, +because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways +detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of +the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it +running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are +not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great +measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the +Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and +comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which +consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and +secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured +before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread, +that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in +those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole +Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling +of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an +eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the +nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the +genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save +the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great +Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford +such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded +People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an _Ignis fatuus_, or what +is not. + +To come then to the _Crisis_ of the Matter, both Time and the Curdling or +Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was to boil the +Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it was rightly +broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not be fine nor +wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two Hours, without +regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it may be too +thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to obtain it its +due order; therefore in _October_ and keeping Beers, an Hour and a +quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a thorough cured +Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil enough, and +because in this there is a double Security by length of boiling, and a +quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only a single one, +and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops boiled only half +an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is assigned, that the +Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities, will by them and +their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling the Wort; and that +a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only the fine wholsome +strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink, exclusive of the +phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted if the Hops were +to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are many now, that +are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew Ale or _October_ +Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet, that if Hops are +boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or more of their +worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer, cannot be exactly +adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the Proportion should be +according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the Season of the Year it +is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be kept. + +For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an +Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd +in three Weeks or a Month. + +If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a +quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months, +there should be more Hops allowed. + +For _October_ or _March_ brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven Bushels +of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months, three Pounds +and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least. + +For _October_ or _March_, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels, boiled an +Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to be allowed +to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted in two Bags, +and less time given the Wort to boil. + +Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly +improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in +Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so; +but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an +Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well +relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly +wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly +publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just +enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time. + + + + +CHAP. XII. + + +_Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors_. + + +Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by +divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too +thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one +after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors +taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great +Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his +Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to +him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all +Servants that Name the word _Fox_ or _Foxing_, in the Brewhouse to pay +Sixpence, which obliges them to call it _Reynards_; for when once the +Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like a _Fox_; +It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and Ale so Tainted +to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is receive'd in a +great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short time turn Sour. +This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers, that they have +asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his Master's Interest +tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the Malt that causes that +sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home how cleverly he came +off. I have had it also in the Country more than once, and that by the +idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub has been rinced out +only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one but this won't do with +a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub with a Hand-brush, +Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot scrape any Dirt up +under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has baffled the Efforts +of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding out a Remedy for the +great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on this Score. + +And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and +curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of +the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it +before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness +and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of +such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in +hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there +is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain +that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts: +So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is +apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or +working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such +Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the +Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and +work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order; +but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross +nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel, +corrupt and make it worse. + +Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the +Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or +Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but +then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as +fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind. + +There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and +Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my +Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged +in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how +scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the +Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful +Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the +same. + + + + +CHAP. XIII + + +_Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice +of Beating in the Yeast detected_. + + +This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the +ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much +discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under +many Years, especially by the _Northern_ Brewers, who tho' much famed for +their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their Example +in the _Southern_ and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet I shall +endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in the Yeast, +as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom ought not to +Authorize an ill Practice. _First_, I shall observe that Yeast is a very +strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous Qualities, whose +Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are by a mixture with +them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion, occasion'd by +Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous Parts of the Wort +will be continually striving to get up to the Surface, the glutinous +adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding their assent, +and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous Particles are set +loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may appear by the Froth +on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens the Operation, as it +assists in opening the viscidities in which some spirituous Parts may be +entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included Air: The viscid Parts +which are raised to the Top, not only on account of their own lightness, +but by the continual efforts and occursions of the Spirits to get +uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and prevent the finer +Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine Operation is permitted +to continue too long, a great deal will get away, and the remaining grow +flat and vapid, as Dr. _Quincy_ well observes. Now tho' a small quantity +of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of Corruption in the Wort, yet it +is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many other Acids are; for if a +Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist as some have done for an +Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or Blisters in some degree like +that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a particular Sense to call it) +Ingredient _Cantharide_, which is one of the Shop Poisons. Here then I +shall observe, that I have known several beat the Yeast into the Wort for +a Week or more together to improve it, or in plainer terms to load the +Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous Particles; and that for two +Reasons, _First_, Because it will make the Liquor so heady, that five +Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to six, and that by the +stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which mercenary subtilty and +imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with the Vulgar and Ignorant, +that it has caused many of them to return the next Day to the same +Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better Drink than others: But +alas, how are such deceived that know no other than that it is the pure +Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are driving Nails into +their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the corrupt Qualities of +this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have proved, by suffering +violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other Inconveniencies the Day +following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch of such Liquor; who would +not perhaps for a great reward swallow a Spoonful of thick Yeast by +itself, and yet without any concern may receive for ought they know +several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the corrosive +Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail (when +forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same +mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this +difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the +animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost +recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a +most learned Doctor observes. + +_Secondly_, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it gives it +a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at _London_, it makes the Ale +bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other reason than to +further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some Bigots, to me it +proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous taste; however my +surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the _Plymouth_ People, who are quite +the reverse of them at _Dover_ and _Chatham_; for the first are so +attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have undone themselves by +drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to the common Brewers +brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they immediately put in +a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring it up, this is no +sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may carry a Froth on the +Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt commonly answered its +End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the great Quantities they +drank, that it farther excited by the biting pleasant stimulating quality +the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower also had its seducing share +by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its mantling Froth, so that the Sailors +that are often here in great Numbers used to consume many Hogsheads of +this common Ale with much delight, as thinking it was intirely the pure +Product of the Malt. + +Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with +what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower +of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a _Nostrum_ made and sold only by two +or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by many +of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen Steens, +in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for Twopence +Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to be drank +by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a prevalent +Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the _Dover_ and _Chatham_ People +won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong. + + +_Of working and fermenting_ London _Stout Beer and Ale_. + + +In my Brewhouse at _London_, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun to +work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of doing +otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the same +Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means, and +the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot make +Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working of +those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the Year, +as most of the great ones do in _London_, and some others five times. The +strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in the Winter +when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two Nights and a +Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation as the common +brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty, such Beer +won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale has indeed +its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they carry it away +the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly draw it out +in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often kept near it, +not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better incorporating the +Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the foregoing Reasons. + + +_Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families_. + + +I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private +Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of +the Ales; the way that is used in _Northamptonshire_, and by good Brewers +elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm Wort in a +Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it works out +and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in Summer, and +almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it will keep, +too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick a motion, +whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon, and then the +Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never natural; but +when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd Head, its +Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right management of +the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine Months, I put +a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will admit of, two +Days together, in _October_ or _March_, and if I find it works too fast, I +check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort with a Hand-bowl: So +likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same method, because of +having them keep some time, and this is so nicely observed by several, +that I have seen them do the very same by their small Beer Wort; now by +these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often new Commotions +raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to the rarefaction +and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these joining +Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered smoother, or +that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from making their +Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small Liquors +generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a Bottle, +and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank. + +Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up +towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the +Hand-bowl or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a +manner, they put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the +Sediments at Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub +near the Cask to fill it up as it works over, and when it has done +working, leave it with a thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it. + +But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and +beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in +the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work +heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the +same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs +behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in +the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But +this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have +sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never +revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all +light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human +Body. + + +_Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors_. + + +In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast +some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the +Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold +out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will +so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone +Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put +into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some +time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort, +which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken +that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest +it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some +nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into +it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated +in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper +of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more +Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several +other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury. +Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of +two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it +either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring +it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran +in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and +flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and +breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town +in _Bucks_ that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first, and +then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the Beer or +Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must own is +very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are to lye +nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will be +wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must +consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top +and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial +Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will +better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore +I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great +End. + + + + +CHAP. XIV. + + + _Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on_. + + +This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt +Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them, +because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers +drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that +lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops +and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their +long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make +it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the +Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are +sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in +Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill +property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in _London_) new +thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a Leather +Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar, which I +shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is, by many +put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a +substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about +three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there +Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others +there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't +touch the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and +collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which +it is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put +into Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a +Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating +the inebriating Toast, and therefore the _Frenchman_ says, the _English_ +are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it: +Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the +unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a +corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the +_North_ will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease and +Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body than +whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But whether it +be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle has emitted +its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can of the acid +qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey upon that +again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of Man, as +Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have seen in +the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly scorn'd +what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such corroding +consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised that such +Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at furthest, +and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do good and +not harm. + + +_An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with_. + + +Take a Quart of _French_ Brandy, or as much of _English_, that is free +from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to this put as +much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in long pieces +into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or afterwards, +and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the Butt, this will +maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness off for some +time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged. + + +ANOTHER. + + +Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed +Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon +as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will +both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great +while. + + +ANOTHER. + + +Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with +two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of +coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid. + + +_To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the +Wort_. + + +This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and +Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle, +or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it +boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling +Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second +Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being +incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous +Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is +more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if +such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as +being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear. + + +_Another Way_. + + +A Woman, who lived at _Leighton Buzzard_ in _Bedfordshire_, and had the +best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just done +working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was fine +enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little while +a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she boiled in +her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine accidentally +had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper; so will +Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being great finers +and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and sourness, and are +certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put into a Cask when +you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose; but these are +dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great measure +supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor Body, or +to the Hog. + + +_To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors_. + + +Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of +the Hogshead and stop it close. + + +_To recover deadish Beer_. + + +When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or +five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim +it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will +make it pleasant, quick and strong. + + + _To make stale Beer drink new_. + + +Take the Herb _Horehound_ stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful of +the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of Beer, +let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it. + + + _To fine Malt Liquors_. + + +Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well +together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom, +and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and +put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass +first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the +Barrel will settle and clear. + +There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose, +but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls +that Mr. _Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ has found out by +his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers and Relishers +of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd Drinks, as I +have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a further Account of +some other things that will fine, colour and improve Malt Drinks: The +Balls are sold at [missing text] + + + + +CHAP. XV. + + +_Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease their +Strength_. + + +Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the +disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and +ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the +precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life, +is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the +Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the +greatest, of the Lord _Bacon's_ Reasons for saying, he thought not one +_Englishman_ in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed to be +much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the Publicans make +it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness what I am afraid +is too true, that some have made use of the _Coculus India_ Berry for +making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt; but as this is a +violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if taken in too large +a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of its use than an +invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly Nightshade, that +it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is bad enough; for +one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its Berries that grow +in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black Cherry, that the +Boy took the wrong for the right. + +There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill +Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is _Coriander_ +Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of +which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me +by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers +(for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such +Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how +wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way +first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it +is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it. +Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink; +but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a +general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without +doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides +the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake +then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts +for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true +healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of +this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I +hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such +unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort, +but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now +only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for +Reasons that I could here assign. + +I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick +by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them +wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I +hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear +salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and +Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction. + + + + +CHAP. XVI. + + +_Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales_. + + +It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a +Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel, +Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of +forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in +cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where +Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence +will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it +from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather +and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the +Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very +likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep +Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in _October_, that the Drink +may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in +wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in _March_, that the Drink may +have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced. Now +such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a +temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have +double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then +carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it +will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places, +that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently +disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept +dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in +Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels +or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more +than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths, +which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all +damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and +sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones; +Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have +lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate +Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and +softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the +Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be +disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in +some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with +Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults +or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding +any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar +that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour, +tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again; +and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in +_March_ and their brown in _October_, for that the pale Malt, having not +so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need of the +Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard and dry +is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will help to +smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too violent, +Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification against them; +but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be better. + +Some are of Opinion, that _October_ is the best of all other Months to +brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months directly +follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that Brewed in +_March_ because such Beer will not want that Care and Watching, as that +brewed in _March_ absolutely requires, by often taking out and putting in +the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is always left out, then it +deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is not taken in this respect, +a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by making the Drink ferment and +burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron Hoops are most in Fashion at +this time, they are certainly the greatest Security to the safety of the +Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the Chesnut Hoop; both which will +endure a shorter or longer time as the Cellar is more or less dry, and the +Management attending them. The Iron Hoop generally begins to rust first at +the Edges, and therefore should be rubbed off when opportunity offers, and +be both kept from wet as much as possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the +Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or twelve Years, when the Ashen and +Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three times as long. + + + + +CHAP. XVII. + + +_Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks_. + + +In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees +clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a +long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as +well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter +Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so +imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a +Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used +with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the +outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the +Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it. + +But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses, +they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of +the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a +furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will +be apt to fall in pieces. + + +_Another Way_. + + +Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this +pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about. + + +_Another Way_. + + +Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the +end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to +the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten, +but help to fine the Drink. + + + _Another_. + + +Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus: +Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two +Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip +therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders +of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire, +and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden +Bung, so that no Smoke comes out. + + + _For a Musty Cask_. + + +Boil some Pepper in water and fill the Cask with it scalding hot. + + + _For a very stinking Vessel_. + + +The last Remedy is the Coopers taking out one of the Heads of the Cask to +scrape the inside, or new-shave the Staves, and is the surest way of all +others, if it is fired afterwards within-side a small matter, as the +Cooper knows how. + +These several Methods may be made use of at Discretion, and will be of +great Service where they are wanted. The sooner also a Remedy is applied, +the better; else the Taint commonly encreases, as many have to their +prejudice proved, who have made use of such Casks, in hopes the next Beer +will overcome it; but when once a Cask is infected, it will be a long +while, if ever, before it becomes sweet, if no Art is used. Many therefore +of the careful sort, in case they han't a Convenience to fill their Vessel +as soon as it is empty, will stop it close, to prevent the Air and +preserve the Lees sound, which will greatly tend to the keeping of the +Cask pure and sweet against the next Occasion. + + _To prepare a new Vessel to keep Malt Liquors in_. + +A new Vessel is most improperly used by some ignorant People for strong +Drink after only once or twice scalding with Water, which is so wrong, +that such Beer or Ale will not fail of tasting thereof for half, if not a +whole Year afterwards; such is the Tang of the Oak and its Bark, as may be +observed from the strong Scents of Tan-Yards, which the Bark is one cause +of. To prevent then this Inconvenience, when your Brewing is over put up +some Water scalding hot, and let it run throu' the Grains, then boil it +and fill up the Cask, stop it well and let it stand till it is cold, do +this twice, then take the Grounds of strong Drink and boil in it green +Wallnut Leaves and new Hay or Wheat Straw, and put all into the Cask, that +it be full and stop it close. After this, use it for small Beer half a +Year together, and then it will be thoroughly sweet and fit for strong +Drinks; or + + + _Another Way_. + + +Take a new Cask and dig a Hole in the Ground, in which it may lye half +depth with the Bung downwards; let it remain a Week, and it will greatly +help this or any stinking musty Cask. But besides these, I have writ of +two other excellent Ways to sweeten musty or stinking Casks, in my Second +Book of Brewing. + + +_Wine Casks_. + + +These, in my Opinion, are the cheapest of all others to furnish a Person +readily with, as being many of them good Casks for Malt Liquors, because +the Sack and White-Wine sorts are already season'd to Hand, and will +greatly improve Beers and Ales that are put in them: But beware of the +Rhenish Wine Cask for strong Drinks; for its Wood is so tinctured with +this sharp Wine, that it will hardly ever be free of it, and therefore +such Cask is best used for Small Beer: The Claret Cask will a great deal +sooner be brought into a serviceable State for holding strong Drink, if it +is two or three times scalded with Grounds of Barrels, and afterwards used +for small Beer for some time. I have bought a Butt or Pipe for eight +Shillings in _London_ with some Iron Hoops on it, a good Hogshead for the +same, and the half Hogshead for five Shillings, the Carriage for a Butt by +the Waggon thirty Miles is two Shillings and Sixpence, and the Hogshead +Eighteen-pence: But, to cure a Claret Cask of its Colour and Taste, put a +Peck of Stone-Lime into a Hogshead, and pour upon it three Pails of Water; +bung immediately with a Wood-or Cork Bung, and shake it well about a +quarter of an Hour, and let it stand a Day and Night and it will bring off +the red Colour, and alter the Taste of the Cask very much. But of three +several other excellent Methods for curing musty, stinking, new and other +tainted Casks, I have writ of in my Account of Casks in my Second Book. + + + + +CHAP. XVIII. + + +_Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of Malt Liquors to some distance_. + + +I am sure this is of no small Consequence, however it may be esteemed as a +light matter by some; for if this is not duly perform'd, all our Charge, +Labour and Care will be lost; and therefore here I shall dissent from my +_London_ Fashion, where I bung'd up my Ale with Pots of Clay only, or with +Clay mix'd with Bay Salt, which is the better of the two, because this +Salt will keep the Clay moist longer than in its Original State; and the +Butt Beers and fine Ales were Bung'd with Cork drove in with a piece of +Hop-Sack or Rag, which I think are all insipid, and the occasion of +spoiling great Quantities of Drink, especially the small Beers; for when +the Clay is dry, which is soon in Summer, there cannot be a regular Vent +thro' it, and then the Drink from that time flattens and stales to the +great loss in a Year to some Owners, and the Benefit of the Brewer; for +then a fresh Cask must be Tapp'd to supply it, and the remaining part of +the other throw'd away. Now, to prevent this great Inconvenience, my +Bung-holes are not quite of the largest size of all, and yet big enough +for the common wooden Iron Hoop'd Funnel used in some Brew-houses: In this +I put in a turned piece of Ash or Sallow three Inches broad at Top, and +two Inches and a half long, first putting in a double piece of dry brown +Paper, that is so broad that an Inch or more may be out of it, after the +wooden Bung is drove down with a Hammer pretty tight; this Paper must be +furl'd or twisted round the Bung, and another loose piece upon and around +that, with a little Yeast, and a small Peg put into the Bung, which is to +be raised at Discretion when the Beer is drawing, or at other times to +give it Vent if there should be occasion: Others will put some Coal or +Wood Ashes wetted round this Bung, which will bind very hard, and prevent +any Air getting into or out of the Cask; but this in time is apt to rot, +and wear the Bung-hole by the Salt or Sulphur in the Ashes, and employing +a Knife to scrape it afterwards. Yet, for keeping Beers, it's the best +Security of all other ways whatsoever. + +There is also a late Invention practised by a common Brewer in the Country +that I am acquainted with, for the safe Carriage of Drink on Drays, to +some distance without losing any of it, and that is in the Top Center of +one of these Bungs, he puts in a wooden Funnel, whose Spout is about four +Inches long, and less than half an Inch Diameter at Bottom; this is turned +at Top into a concave Fashion like a hollow round Bowl, that will hold +about a Pint, which is a constant Vent to the Cask, and yet hinders the +Liquor from ascending no faster than the Bowl can receive, and return it +again into the Barrel: I may say further, he has brought a Barrel two +Miles, and it was then full, when it arrived at his Customers, because the +Pint that was put into the Funnel, at setting out, was not at all lost +when he took it off the Dray; this may be also made of Tin; and will serve +from the Butt to the small Cask. + +In the Butt there is a Cork-hole made about two Inches below the upper +Head, and close under that a piece of Leather is nailed Spout-fashion, +that jetts three Inches out, from which the Yeast works and falls into a +Tub, and when the working is over the Cork is put closely in, for the Bung +in the Head of the upright Cask is put in as soon as it is filled up with +new Drink: Now when such a Cask is to be broach'd and a quick Draught is +to follow, then it may be tapp'd at Bottom; but if otherwise, the Brass +Cock ought to be first put in at the middle, and before the Drink sinks to +that it should be Tapp'd at Bottom to prevent the breaking of the Head of +Yeast, and its growing stale, flat and sour. + +In some Places in the Country when they brew Ale or Beer to send to +_London_ at a great Distance, they let it be a Year old before they Tap +it, so that then it is perfectly fine; this they put into small Casks that +have a Bung-hole only fit for a large Cork, and then they immediately put +in a Role of Bean-flour first kneaded with Water or Drink, and baked in an +Oven, which is all secured by pitching in the Cork, and so sent in the +Waggon; the Bean-flour feeding and preserving the Body of the Drink all +the way, without fretting or causing it to burst the Cask for want of +Vent, and when Tapp'd will also make the Drink very brisk, because the +Flour is in such a hard Consistence, that it won't dissolve in that time; +but if a little does mix with the Ale or Beer, its heavy Parts will sooner +fine than thicken the Drink and keep it mellow and lively to the last, if +Air is kept out of the Barrel. + + + + +CHAP. XIX. + + +_Of the Strength and Age of Malt Liquors_. + + +Whether they be Ales or strong Beers, it is certain that the midling sort +is allowed by Physicians to be the most agreeable of any, especially to +those of a sedentary Life, or those that are not occupied in such Business +as promotes Perspiration enough to throw out and break the Viscidities of +the stronger sorts; on which account the laborious Man has the advantage, +whose Diet being poor and Body robust, the strength of such Liquors gives +a Supply and better digests into Nourishment: But for the unactive Man a +Hogshead of Ale which is made from six Bushels of Malt is sufficient for a +Diluter of their Food, and will better assist their Constitution than the +more strong sort, that would in such produce Obstructions and ill Humours; +and therefore that Quantity for Ale, and ten Bushels for a Hogshead of +strong Beer that should not be Tapp'd under nine Months, is the most +healthful. And this I have experienc'd by enjoying such an Amber Liquor +that has been truly brewed from good Malt, as to be of a Vinous Nature, +that would permit of a hearty Dose over Night, and yet the next Morning +leave a Person light, brisk and unconcern'd. This then is the true Nostrum +of Brewing, and ought to be studied and endeavoured for by all those that +can afford to follow the foregoing Rules, and then it will supply in a +great measure those chargeable (and often adulterated tartarous +arthritick) Wines. So likewise for small Beer, especially in a Farmer's +Family where it is not of a Body enough, the Drinkers will be feeble in +hot Weather and not be able to perform their Work, and will also bring on +Distempers, besides the loss of time, and a great waste of such Beer that +is generally much thrown away; because Drink is certainly a Nourisher of +the Body, as well as Meats, and the more substantial they both are, the +better will the Labourer go through his Work, especially at Harvest; and +in large Families the Doctor's Bills have proved the Evil of this bad +Oeconomy, and far surmounted the Charge of that Malt that would have kept +the Servants in good Health, and preserved the Beer from such Waste as the +smaller sort is liable to. + +'Tis therefore that some prudent Farmers will brew their Ale and small +Beer in _March_, by allowing of five or six Bushels of Malt, and two +Pounds of Hops to the Hogshead of Ale, and a quarter of Malt and three +Pounds of Hops to five Barrels of small Beer. Others there are, that will +brew their Ale or strong Beer in _October_, and their small Beer a Month +before it is wanted. Others will brew their Ale and small Beer in _April, +May_ and _June_; but this according to humour, and therefore I have hinted +of the several Seasons for Brewing these Liquors: However in my Opinion, +whether it be strong or small Drinks, they should be clear, smooth and not +too small, if they are design'd for Profit and Health; for if they are +otherwise, it will be a sad Evil to Harvest Men, because then they stand +most in need of the greatest Balsamicks: To this end some of the softning +Ingredients mentioned in the foregoing Receipts should be made use of to +feed it accordingly, if these Drinks are brewed forward. And that this +particular important Article in the Brewing Oeconomy may be better +understood, I shall here recite Dr. _Quincy_'s Opinion of Malt Liquors, +viz. The Age of Malt Drinks makes them more or less wholsome, and seems to +do somewhat the same as Hops; for those Liquors which are longest kept, +are certainly the least viscid; Age by degrees breaking the viscid Parts, +and rendering them smaller, makes them finer for Secretion; but this is +always to be determined by their Strength, because in Proportion to that +will they sooner or later come to their full Perfection and likewise their +Decay, until the finer Spirits quite make their Escape, and the remainder +becomes vapid and sour. By what therefore has been already said, it will +appear that the older Drinks are the more healthful, so they be kept up to +this Standard, but not beyond it. Some therefore are of Opinion, that +strong Beer brewed in _October_ should be Tapp'd at _Midsummer_, and that +brewed in _March_ at _Christmas_, as being most agreeable to the Seasons +of the Year that follow such Brewings: For then they will both have part +of a Summer and Winter to ripen and digest their several Bodies; and 'tis +my humble Opinion, that where the Strength of the Beer, the Quantity of +Hops, the boiling Fermentation and the Cask are all rightly managed, there +Drink may be most excellent, and better at nine Months Age, than at nine +Years, for Health and Pleasure of Body. But to be truly certain of the +right Time, there should be first an Examination made by Pegging the +Vessel to prove if such Drink is fine, the Hop sufficiently rotted, and it +be mellow and well tasted. + + + + +CHAP. XX. + + +_Of the Pleasure and Profit of Private Brewing, and the Charge of buying +Malt Liquors_. + + +Here I am to treat of the main Article of shewing the difference between +brewing our own Ales and Beers, and buying them, which I doubt not will +appear so plain and evident, as to convince any Reader, that many Persons +may save well towards half in half, and have their Beer and Ale strong, +fine and aged at their own Discretion: A satisfaction that is of no small +weight, and the rather since I have now made known a Method of Brewing a +Quantity of Malt with a little Copper and a few Tubs, a Secret that has +long wanted Publication; for now a Person may Brew in a little Room, and +that very safely by keeping his Wort from Foxing, as I have already +explained, which by many has been thought impossible heretofore; and this +Direction is the more Valuable as there are many Thousands who live in +Cities and Towns, that have no more than a few Yards Square of Room to +perform a private Brewing in. And as for the trouble, it is easy to +account for by those who have time enough on their Hands, and would do +nothing else if they had not done this: Or if a Man is paid half a Crown a +Day for a Quantity accordingly: Or if a Servant can do this besides his +other Work for the same Wages and Charge, I believe the following account +will make it appear it is over-ballanc'd considerably, by what such a +Person may save in this undertaking, besides the Pleasure of thoroughly +knowing the several Ingredients and Cleanliness of the Brewer and +Utensils. In several of the Northern Counties of _England_, where they +have good Barley, Coak-dryed Malt, and the Drink brewed at Home, there are +seldom any bad Ales or Beers, because they have the Knowledge in Brewing +so well, that there are hardly any common Brewers amongst them: In the +West indeed there are some few, but in the South and East Parts there are +many; and now follows the Account, that I have Stated according to my own +general Practice, viz. + +_A Calculation of the Charge and Profit of Brewing six Bushels of Malt for +a private Family_. + + L. s. d. + Six Bushels of Malt at 2s. 8d. + _per_ Bushel, Barley being this ) + Year 1733. sold for 14s. _per_ ) 0 16 0 + Quarter by the Farmer ) + + Hops one Pound 0 1 6 + + Yeast a Quart 0 0 4 + + Coals one Bushel, or if Wood or Furze 0 1 0 + + A Man's Wages a Day 0 2 6 + ------------ + Total 1 1 4 + +_Of these six Bushels of Malt I make one Hogshead of Ale and another of +Small Beer: But if I was to buy them of some common Brewers, the Charge +will be as follows_, viz. + + L s. d. + + One Hogshead of Ale containing 48 ) + Gallons, at 6 _d. per_ Gallon is ) 1 4 0 + + One Hogshead of Small Beer ) + containing 54 Gallons, at 2 _d_. ) + 0 9 0 _per_ Gallon is ) 0 9 0 + ___.____.____ + + 1 13 0 + ___.____.____ + + Total Saved 0 11 8 + +By the above Account it plainly appears, that 11 s. and 8 d. is clearly +gained in Brewing of six Bushels of Malt at our own House for a private +Family, and yet I make the Charge fuller by 2 s. and 6 d. then it will +happen with many, whose Conveniency by Servants, &c. may intirely take it +off; besides the six Bushels of Grains that are currently sold for +Three-pence the Bushel, which will make the Eleven and Eight-pence more by +four Shillings, without reckoning any thing for yeast, that in the very +cheapest time sells here for Four-pence the Quart, and many times there +happens three Quarts from so much Drink; so that there may possibly be +gained in all sixteen Shillings and Eight-pence: A fine Sum indeed in so +small a Quantity of Malt. But here by course will arise a Question, +whether this Ale is as good as that bought of some of the common Brewers +at Six-pence a Gallon; I can't say all is; however I can aver this, that +the Ale I brew in the Country from six Bushels of Malt for my Family, I +think is generally full as good, if not better than any I ever sold at +that Price in my _London_ Brewhouse: And if I should say, that where the +Malt, Water and Hops are right good, and the Brewer's Skill answerable to +them, there might be a Hogshead of as good Ale and another of small Beer +made from five Bushels as I desire to use for my Family, or for Harvest +Men; It is no more than I have many times experienced, and 'tis the common +length I made for that Purpose. And whoever makes use of true Pale and +Amber Malts, and pursues the Directions of this Book, I doubt not but will +have their Expectation fully answered in this last Quantity, and so save +the great Expence of Excise that the common Brewers Drink is always +clogg'd with, which is [blotted text] than five Shillings for Ale and +Eighteen-pence _per_ Barrel for Small Beer. + + + + +CHAP. XXI. + + +_A Philosophical Account for Brewing strong_ October _Beer. By an +Ingenious Hand_. + + +In Brewing, your Malt ought to be sound and good, and after its making to +lye two or more Months in the Heap, to come to such a temper, that the +Kernel may readily melt in the washing. + +The well dressing your Malt, ought to be one chief Care; for unless it be +freed from the Tails and Dust, your Drink will not be fine and mellow as +when it is clean dressed. + +The grinding also must be considered according to the high or low drying +of the Malt; for if high dryed, then a gross grinding is best, otherwise a +smaller may be done; for the Care in grinding consists herein, lest too +much of the Husk being ground small should mix with the Liquor, which +makes a gross Feces, and consequently your Drink will have too fierce a +Fermentation, and by that means make it Acid, or that we call Stale. + +When your Malt is ground, let it stand in Sacks twenty-four Hours at +least, to the end that the Heat in grinding may be allayed, and 'tis +conceived by its so standing that the Kernel will dissolve the better. + +The measure and quantity we allow of Hops and Malt, is five Quarter of +Malt to three Hogsheads of Beer, and eighteen Pounds of Hops at least to +that Quantity of Malt, and if Malt be pale dryed, then add three or four +Pounds of Hops more. + +The Choice of Liquor for Brewing is of considerable advantage in making +good Drink, the softest and cleanest water is to be prererr'd, your harsh +water is not to be made use of. + +You are to boil your first Liquor, adding a Handful or two of Hops to it, +then before you strike it over to your Goods or Malt, cool in as much +Liquor, as will bring it to a temper not to scald the Malt, for it is a +fault not to take the Liquor as high as possible but not to scald. The +next Liquors do the same. + +And indeed all your Liquors ought to be taken as high as may be, that is +not to scald. + +When you let your Wort from your Malt into the Underback, put to it a +Handful or two of Hops, 'twill preserve it from that accident which +Brewers call Blinking or Foxing. + +In boiling your Worts, the first Wort boil high or quick; for the quicker +the first Wort is boiled, the better it is. + +The second boil more than the first, and the third or last more than the +second. + +In cooling lay your Worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and Care must +be taken in letting them down into the Tun, that you do it leisurely, to +the end that as little of the Feces or Sediment which causes the +Fermentation to be fierce or mild, for Note, there is in all fermented +Liquors, Salt and Sulphur, and to keep these two Bodies in a due +Proportion, that the Salt does not exalt itself above the Sulphur, +consists a great part of the Art in Brewing. + +When your Wort is first let into your Tun, put but a little Yeast to it, +and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate, +whip in the Yeast two or three times or more, till you find your Drink +well fermented, for without a full opening of the Body by fermentation, it +will not be perfect fine, nor will it drink clean and light. + +When you cleanse, do it by a Cock from your Tun, placed six Inches from +the Bottom, to the end that most of the Sediment may be left behind, which +may be thrown on your Malt to mend your Small Beer. + +When your Drink is Tunn'd, fill your Vessel full, let it work at the +Bung-hole, and have a reserve in a small Cask to fill it up, and don't put +any of the Drink which will be under the Yeast after it is work'd over +into your Vessels, but put it by itself in another Cask, for it will not +be so good as your other in the Cask. + +This done, you must wait for the finishing of the fermentation, then stop +it close, and let it stand till the Spring, for Brewing ought to be done +in the Month of _October_, that it may have time to settle and digest all +the Winter Season. + +In the Spring you must unstop your Vent-hole and thereby see whether your +Drink doth ferment or not, for as soon as the warm Weather comes, your +Drink will have another fermentation, which when it is over, let it be +again well stopped and stand till _September_ or longer, and then Peg it; +and if you find it pretty fine, the Hop well rotted and of a good pleasant +taste for drinking. + +Then and not before draw out a Gallon of it, put to it two Ounces of +Ising-glass cut small and well beaten to melt, stirring it often and whip +it with a Wisk till the Ising-glass be melted, then strain it and put it +into your Vessel, stirring it well together, stop the Bung slightly, for +this will cause a new and small fermentation, when that is over stop it +close, leaving only a Vent-hole a little stopp'd, let it stand, and in ten +Days or a little more, it will be transparently fine, and you may drink of +it out of the Vessel till two parts in three be drawn, then Bottle the +rest, which will in a little time come to drink very well. If your Drink +in _September_ be well condition'd for taste, but not fine, and you desire +to drink it presently, rack it before you put your Ising-glass to it, and +then it will fine the better and drink the cleaner. + +To make Drink fine quickly, I have been told that by separating the Liquor +from the Feces, when the Wort is let out of the Tun into the Underback, +which may be done in this manner, when you let your Wort into your +Underback out of your Tun, catch the Wort in some Tub so long, and so +often as you find it run foul, put that so catched on the Malt again, and +do so till the Wort run clear into the Underback. This is to me a very +good way (where it may be done) for 'tis the Feces which causes the fierce +and violent fermentation, and to hinder that in some measure is the way to +have fine Drink: Note that the finer you make your Wort, the sooner your +Drink will be fine, for I have heard that some Curious in Brewing have +caused Flannels to be so placed, that all the Wort may run thro' one or +more of them into the Tun before working, by which means the Drink was +made very fine and well tasted. + + + _Observations on the foregoing Account_. + + +This Excellent Philosophical Account of Brewing _October_ Beer, has +hitherto remained in private Hands as a very great Secret, and was given +to a Friend of mine by the Author himself, to whom the World is much +obliged, altho' it comes by me; In justice therefore to this ingenious +Person, I would here mention his Name, had I leave for so doing; but at +present this Intimation must suffice. However, I shall here take notice, +that his Caution against using tailed or dusty Malt, which is too commonly +sold, is truly worthy of Observation; for these are so far from producing +more Ale or Beer, that they absorb and drink part of it up. + +In Grinding Malts he notifies well to prevent a foul Drink. + +The quantity he allows is something above thirteen Bushels to the Hogshead +which is very sufficient; but this as every body pleases. + +The Choice of Liquors or Waters for Brewing, he says, is of considerable +advantage; and so must every body else that knows their Natures and loves +Health, and pleasant Drink: For this purpose, in my Opinion, the Air and +Soil is to be regarded where the Brewing is performed; since the Air +affects all things it can come at, whether Animal, Vegetable or Mineral, +as may be proved from many Instances: In the Marshes of _Kent_ and +_Essex_, the Air there is generally so infectious by means of those low +vaesy boggy Grounds, that seldom a Person escapes an Ague one time or +other, whether Natives or Aliens, and is often fatally known to some of +the _Londoners_ and others who merrily and nimbly travel down to the Isles +of _Grain_ and _Sheppy_ for a valuable Harvest, but in a Month's time they +generally return thro' the Village of _Soorne_ with another Mien. There is +also a little _Moor_ in _Hertfordshire_, thro' which a Water runs that +frequently gives the _Passant_ Horses that drink of it, the Colick or +Gripes, by means of the aluminous sharp Particles of its Earth; Its Air is +also so bad, as has obliged several to remove from its Situation for their +Healths: The Dominion of the Air is likewise so powerful over Vegetables, +that what will grow in one Place won't in another, as is plain from the +Beech and Black Cherry Tree, that refuse the Vale of _Ailesbury_ tho' on +some Hills there, yet will thrive in the _Chiltern_ or Hilly Country: So +the Limes and other Trees about _London_ are all generally black-barked, +while those in the Country are most of them of a Silver white. Water is +also so far under the Influence of the Air and Soil, as makes many +excellent for Brewing when others are as bad. In Rivers, that run thro' +boggy Places, the Sullage or Washings of such Soils are generally +unwholsome as the nature of such Ground is; and so the Water becomes +infected by that and the Effluvia or Vapour that accompanies such Water: +So Ponds are surely good or bad, as they are under too much Cover or +supply'd by nasty Drains, or as they stand situated or exposed to good and +bad Airs. Thus the Well-waters by consequence share in the good or bad +Effects of such Soils that they run thorough, and the very Surface of the +Earth by which such Waters are strained, is surely endowed with the +quality of the Air in which it lies; which brings me to my intended +purpose, to prove that Water drawn out of a Chalky, or Fire-stone Well, +which is situated under a dry sweet loamy Soil, in a fine pure Air, and +that is perfectly soft, must excel most if not all other Well-waters for +the purpose in Brewing. The Worts also that are rooted in such an Air, in +course partakes of its nitrous Benefits, as being much exposed thereto in +the high Backs or Coolers that contain them. In my own Grounds I have +Chalks under Clays and Loams; but as the latter is better than the former, +so the Water proves more soft and wholsome under one than the other. Hence +then may be observed the contrary Quality of those harsh curdling +Well-waters that many drink of in their Malt Liquors, without considering +their ill Effects, which are justly condemn'd by this able Author as unfit +to be made use of in Brewing _October_ Beer. + +The boiling a few Hops in the first Water is good, but they must be +strained thro' a Sieve before the Water is put into the Malt; and to check +its Heat with cold Liquor, or to let it stand to cool some time, is a +right Method, lest it scalds and locks up the Pores of the Malt, which +would then yield a thick Wort to the end of the Brewing and never be good +Drink. + +His putting Hops into the Underback, is an excellent Contrivance to +prevent foxing, as I have already hinted. + +The quick boiling of the Wort is of no less Service, and that the smaller +Wort should be boiled longer than the strong is good Judgment, because the +stronger the Wort, the sooner the Spirits flie away and the waste of more +Consequence; besides if the first Wort was to be boiled too long, it would +obtain so thick a Body, as to prevent in great measure its fining +hereafter after so soon in the Barrel; while the smaller sort will +evaporate its more watry Parts, and thereby be brought into a thicker +Confidence, which is perfectly necessary in thin Worts; and in this +Article lies so much the Skill of the Brewer, that some will make a longer +Length than ordinary from the Goods for Small Beer, to shorten it +afterwards in the Copper by Length of boiling, and this way of consuming +it is the more natural, because the remaining part will be better Cured. + +The laying Worts thin is a most necessary Precaution; for this is one way +to prevent their running into Cohesions and Foxing, the want of which +Knowledge and Care has undoubtedly been the occasion of great Losses in +Brewing; for when Worts are tainted in any considerable degree, they will +be ropy in time and unfit for the human Body, as being unwholsome as well +as unpleasant. So likewise is his _Item_ of great Importance, when he +advises to draw the Worts off fine out of the Backs or Coolers, and leave +the Feces or Sediments behind, by reason, as he says, they are the cause +of those two detested Qualities in Malt Liquors, staleness and foulness, +two Properties that ought to imploy the greatest Care in Brewers to +prevent; for 'tis certain these Sediments are a Composition of the very +worst part of the Malt, Hops and Yeast, and, while they are in the Barrel, +will so tincture and impregnate the Drink with their insanous and +unpleasant nature, that its Drinkers will be sure to participate thereof +more or less as they have lain together a longer or a shorter time. To +have then a Malt Drink balsamick and mild, the Worts cannot be run off too +fine from the Coolers, nor well fermented too slow, that there may be a +Medium kept, in both the Salt and Sulphur that all fermented Malt Drinks +abound with, and herein, as he says, lies a great part of the Art of +Brewing. + +He says truly well, that a little Yeast at first should be put to the +Wort, that it may quietly work by degrees, and not be violently forc'd +into a high Fermentation; for then by course the Salt and Sulphur will be +too violently agitated into such an Excess and Disagreement of Parts, that +will break their Unity into irregular Commotions, and cause the Drink to +be soon stale and harsh. But if it should be too backward and work too +moderate, then whipping the Yeast two or three times into it will be of +some service to open the Body of the Beer, for as he observes, if Drink +has not a due fermentation, it will not be fine, clean, nor light. + +His advice to draw the Drink out of the Tun by a Cock at such a distance +from the bottom is right; because that room will best keep the Feces from +being disturb'd as the Drink is drawing off, and leaving them behind; but +for putting them afterwards over the Malt for Small Beer, I don't hold it +consonant with good Brewing, by reason in this Sediment there are many +Particles of the Yeast, that consequently will cause a small Fermentation +in the Liquor and Malt, and be a means to spoil rather than make good +Small Beer. + +What he says of filling up the Cask with a reserve of the same Drink, and +not with that which has once worked out, is past dispute just and right. + +And so is what he says of stopping up the Vessel close after the +Fermentation is over; but that it is best to Brew all strong Beer in +_October_, I must here take leave to dissent from the Tenet, because there +is room for several Objections in relation to the sort of Malt and Cellar, +which as I have before explained, shall say the less here. + +As he observes Care should be taken in the Spring to unstop the Vent, lest +the warm Weather cause such a Fermentation as may burst the Cask, and also +in _September_, that it be first try'd by Pegging if the Drink is fine, +well tasted and the Hop rotted; and then if his Way is liked best, bring +the rest into a transparent Fineness; for Clearness in Malt Liquors, as I +said before, and here repeat it again, is a most agreeable Quality that +every Man ought to enjoy for his Health and Pleasure, and therefore he +advises for dispatch in this Affair, and to have the Drink very fine, to +rack it off before the Ising-glass is put in; but I can't be a Votary for +this Practice, as believing the Drink must lose a great deal of its +Spirits by such shifting; yet I must chime in with his Notion of putting +the Wort so often over the Malt till it comes off fine as I have already +taught, which is a Method that has been used many Years in the North of +_England_, where they are so curious as to let the Wort lie some time in +the Underback to draw it off from the Feces there; nor are they less +careful to run it fine out of the Cooler into the Tun, and from that into +the Cask; in all which three several Places the Wort and Drink may be had +clear and fine, and then there will be no more Sediments than is just +necessary to assist and seed the Beer, and preserving its Spirits in a due +Temper. But if Persons have Time and Conveniency, and their Inclination +leads them to, obtain their Drink in the utmost Fineness, it is an +extraordinary good way to use _Hippocrates_ Sleeve or Flannel Bag, which I +did in my great Brew-house at _London_ for straining off the Feces that +were left in the Backs. As to the Quantity of Malt for Brewing a Hogshead +of _October_ Beer, I am of Opinion thirteen Bushels are right, and so are +ten, fifteen and twenty, according as People approve of; for near +_Litchfield_, I know some have brewed a Hogshead of _October_ Beer from +sixteen Bushels of Barley Malt, one of Wheat, one of Beans, one of Pease +and one of Oat Malt, besides hanging a Bag of Flower taken out of the last +four Malts in the Hogshead for the Drink to feed on, nor can a certain +Time Be limited and adjusted for the Tapping of any Drink (notwithstanding +what has been affirmed to the contrary) because some Hops will not be +rotted so soon as others, and some Drinks will not fine so soon as others; +as is evident in the Pale Malt Drinks, that will seldom or never break so +soon in the Copper as the Brown sort, nor will they be so soon ripe and +fit to Tap as the high dryed Malt Drink will. Therefore what this +Gentleman says of trying Drink by first Pegging it before it is Tapp'd, in +my Opinion is more just and right than relying on a limited time for +Broaching such Beer. + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER *** + +***** This file should be named 8900.txt or 8900.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/8/9/0/8900/ + +Produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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