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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The London and Country Brewer
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8900]
+[This file was first posted on August 22, 2003]
+Last updated: April 30, 2013
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER
+
+By Anonymous
+
+1736
+
+
+
+Containing an Account,
+
+
+I. Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and
+ Manures for the Improvement thereof.
+
+II. Of making good Malts.
+
+III. To know good from bad Malts.
+
+IV. Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts.
+
+V. Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing.
+
+VI. Of Grinding Malts.
+
+VII. Of Brewing in general.
+
+VIII. Of the _London_ Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and Brown
+ Ales.
+
+IX. Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing.
+
+X. Of the Nature and Use of the Hop.
+
+XI. Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little
+ Room, and with a few Tubs.
+
+XII. Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure.
+
+XIII. Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome
+ Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected.
+
+XIV. Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and
+ relishing Malt Liquors.
+
+XV. Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease
+ their Strength.
+
+XVI. Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales.
+
+XVII. Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks.
+
+XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance.
+
+XIX. Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors.
+
+XX. Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of
+ Buying Malt Liquors.
+
+To which is added,
+
+XXI. A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong _October_ Beer.
+ By an Ingenious Hand.
+
+
+
+By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at _London_, but for
+twenty Years past has resided in the Country.
+
+
+
+The SECOND EDITION, Corrected.
+
+
+
+LONDON
+
+Printed for Messeurs Fox, at the _Half-Moon and Seven Stars_, in
+_Westminster-Hall_. M.DCC.XXXVI.
+
+[Price Two Shillings.]
+
+
+
+
+
+THE PREFACE.
+
+
+The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have
+for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant
+Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing
+injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great
+Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy
+Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing,
+Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body
+and Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing
+Malt Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a
+considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food;
+so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of
+the Body.
+
+This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our
+Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either
+to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or
+take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill
+Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers.
+
+Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several
+Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and
+preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt
+itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I
+thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome
+Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled
+People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's
+Health.
+
+_I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard
+both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly
+ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been
+partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time
+very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the
+Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in
+making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a
+matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled
+too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this
+Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one
+ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode
+the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties
+that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink;
+for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding
+Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort
+by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second
+Book made appear.
+
+I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite
+in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high
+Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and
+therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have
+been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities
+of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice.
+
+So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an
+Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error
+of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot
+Water on the Malt.
+
+The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and
+Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in
+some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt
+Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without
+the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint.
+
+The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the
+ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here
+exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily
+prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter.
+
+By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered,
+I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge
+of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in
+Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great
+Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our
+Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will
+come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own
+Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but
+enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly
+pleasant, fine, strong and healthful.
+
+I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being
+neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that
+their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not
+write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by
+Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of
+the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here
+plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost
+finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth
+how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that
+will be of considerable Service to the World._
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. I.
+
+
+_Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures for
+the Improvement thereof_.
+
+
+This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that
+produce those fine _British_ Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other Nation
+can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the several
+Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also attended with
+a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their several
+particulars, and first of Soils.
+
+This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and
+thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising
+therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both
+ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat
+like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of
+contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much
+better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are
+better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish
+Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower,
+which occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at _Dunstable_,
+_Tring_ and _Dagnal_ from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly
+Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference
+in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as
+appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas
+in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &c. For our Mother Earth, as
+it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables, is
+composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein.
+And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege
+for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his
+advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several
+natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural
+Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is
+obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy
+Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and
+nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under
+the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &c. are
+sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads,
+Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come
+off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of _London_ and
+other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as those
+produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures.
+
+There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some
+of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the
+same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous
+qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its
+best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great
+quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they
+become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so
+affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making
+such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open
+Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year
+called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick
+and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part
+of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose
+parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making
+a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and
+afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables
+that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things
+that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from
+the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in
+Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the
+Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables,
+and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the
+Creation supplies.
+
+Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor
+lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts
+that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt
+of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof
+both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes
+very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry
+Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the
+Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much
+encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are
+often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or
+less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in
+which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves
+its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that
+are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the
+nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but
+when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come
+into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books,
+entituled, _Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_, and, _The Practical
+Farmer_; both writ by _William Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ near
+_Hempstead_ in _Hertfordshire_, not only for Barley, but other Grains.
+
+But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure;
+and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged
+or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by
+its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if
+it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will
+be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt,
+because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that
+which was inned dry.
+
+Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest,
+another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at
+once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and
+the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest,
+the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of
+it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these
+irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the
+ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into
+the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews,
+makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the
+assistance of such steeping.
+
+Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and
+small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis
+therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but
+take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this
+makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the
+Vale of _Ailsbury_, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams, to
+sow in Chalks, Gravels, &c. Others every second Year will go from hence to
+_Fullham_ and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows there on
+Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this Corn, and
+whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and white
+Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty Sorts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. II
+
+
+_Of making_ Malts.
+
+
+As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to
+treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden
+or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered
+with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell;
+here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve
+Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for
+that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains,
+requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on
+Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly,
+when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it
+is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush
+it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a
+little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is
+a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt
+will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause
+deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of
+the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then
+the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and
+better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in
+temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put
+into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the
+Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the
+Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one
+or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or
+eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always
+keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd;
+and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four
+or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air,
+which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so
+must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye
+and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick,
+ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire;
+but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be
+turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is
+warm, as in _March, April_ or _May_; and when it is fixed and the Root
+begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully kept often
+turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive, and this
+is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's Art and
+Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and turning
+the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is, that the
+Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if it does,
+the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left behind but
+the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree and fit for
+the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let it lye
+twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will much
+improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time it
+must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is
+overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause
+the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be
+put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature
+of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than
+the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a
+sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is
+often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry
+about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should
+be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The
+time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according
+to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often
+sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in
+the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and
+where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed,
+it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap,
+but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put
+it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it.
+
+There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron
+Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The
+Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled
+one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel,
+for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and
+jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or
+scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the
+body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over
+it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used
+quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and
+perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled:
+Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by
+burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as
+formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to
+scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the
+Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only
+turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for
+drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more
+leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the
+Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all.
+
+Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal,
+Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed all
+others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because it
+sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that Wood,
+Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but there is a
+difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being large
+Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the Sulphur
+is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this when it is
+truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but one Cinder
+as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of this one is
+capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often by the
+negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by some
+wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from _Swanzey_
+in _Pembrokeshire_, being of a hard stony substance in small bits
+resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its
+sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward
+parts of the grainy body: In _Devonshire_ I have seen their Marble or grey
+Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme makes, and
+both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet moderate and
+certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it.
+
+Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all.
+
+Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five
+Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will
+Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt,
+as the Pea will.
+
+I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts
+in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done
+him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason
+others won't like such a mixture.
+
+But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to
+come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is
+thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but
+will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once
+done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it
+was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a
+little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not
+thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt,
+when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the
+Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was
+the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid
+beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from
+Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick
+crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such
+unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of
+until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the
+Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good
+Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to
+happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and
+Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the
+Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on
+the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its
+Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having
+its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts
+contribute to as well as the Hop.
+
+There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by
+Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so
+mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its
+black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be
+entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and
+makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a
+small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer
+despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible,
+because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it,
+by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made
+with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of
+Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale
+of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers
+in the Body.
+
+Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in
+the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the
+Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a
+strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where
+there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its
+inebriating quality.
+
+There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen,
+Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here
+a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak,
+soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a
+strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more
+practised then ever.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. III.
+
+
+_To know good from bad_ Malts.
+
+
+This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and
+private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the
+Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be
+Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived
+towards _Ware_, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two hundred
+Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without which 'tis
+impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I know but of
+few Ways, _First_, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn across between
+the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it tasteth mellow
+and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower all its
+length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; _Secondly_, By
+Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it
+swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true
+Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own
+this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd,
+split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an
+allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a
+judgment. _Thirdly_, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and steely,
+but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board, will mark
+and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. _Fourthly_, Malt that is not
+rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and weigh heavier
+than that which is true Malt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. IV.
+
+
+ _Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown_ Malts.
+
+
+The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has
+had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due
+care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full
+quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown
+high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings
+_per_ Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious
+sort to the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and
+nearest to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and
+Balsamick quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of
+this Malt bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of
+the great Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and
+binding Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt,
+either in Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters
+in brewing of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that
+which is dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is
+very much in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant,
+its taste agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd
+by many as the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or
+soft waters, or a mixture of both.
+
+The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so
+hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often
+so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its
+essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant
+Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he
+does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion
+the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and
+is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts,
+being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the
+Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made
+from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this
+reason the _London_ Brewers mostly use the _Thames_ or _New River_ waters
+to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature, whereby it agrees
+with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the well or other hard
+Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and a But-beer that
+will keep very well five or six Months, but after that time it generally
+grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve Bushels allowed to the
+Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly.
+
+Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright
+pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak
+to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish,
+that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or
+Fern, &c. The Coak or _Welch_ Coal also makes more true and compleat Malt,
+as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its fire gives both
+a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all their Parts
+gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained such a
+Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts of the
+Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make such
+fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my
+Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty
+Miles from _London_.
+
+Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best
+tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat,
+Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of
+the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more
+uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a
+moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the
+taste of the smoak.
+
+Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed is
+not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few can
+bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its
+strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of
+_England_, and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used
+in _London_ for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it
+sold for two Shillings _per_ Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt,
+nor was this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its
+Brewers, for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the
+Age of the Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were
+used in its Preservation.
+
+The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from
+the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed,
+as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our
+Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty.
+
+At _Bridport_ in _Dorsetshire_, I knew an Inn-keeper use half Pale and
+half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my Palate the
+best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted for, in that
+the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed, must produce
+a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will reduce those
+extreams to a proper Quality.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. V.
+
+
+_Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And first of
+Well-waters_.
+
+
+Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a
+Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and
+is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of
+the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious
+and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies,
+and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer
+every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those
+Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr_.Mead_ observes, some waters are so loaded
+with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are carried,
+in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that petrifying
+nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the _Parisians_
+have been instances of, by using this sort of water out of the River
+_Seine_. And of this Nature is another at _Rowel_ in _Northamptonshire_,
+which in no great distance of time so clogs the Wheel of an overshot Mill
+there, that they are forced with, convenient Instruments to cut way for
+its Motion; and what makes it still more evident, is the sight of those
+incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that the hard Well-waters are the
+occasion of, by being often boiled in them: And it is further related by
+the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted with frequent returns of
+violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of _Van Helmont_, only by
+leaving off drinking Beer brewed with Well-water; It's true, such a fluid
+has a greater force and aptness to extract the tincture out of Malt, than
+is to be had in the more innocent and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this
+very reason it ought not, unless upon meer necessity, to be made use of;
+this Quality being owing to the mineral Particles and alluminous Salts
+with which it is impregnated. For these waters thus saturated, will by
+their various gravities in circulation, deposit themselves in one part of
+the animal Body or other, which has made some prove the goodness of Water
+by the lightness of its body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of
+the _London_ Shops, in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky,
+Hypochondriack, and other ill Effects of the Clayey and other gross
+Particles of stagnating Well-waters, and the calculous Concretions of
+others; and therefore such waters ought to be mistrusted more than any,
+where they are not pure clear and soft or that don't arise from good
+Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally allowed to afford the best of
+all the Well sorts.
+
+Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro'
+which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At
+_Uppingham_ in _Rutland_, their water is said to come off an
+Allum-rock, and so tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is
+easily tasted at the first Draught. And at _Dean_ in _Northamptonshire_, I
+have seen the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of
+a Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water
+that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally
+accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in
+that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but
+undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may
+accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in,
+great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at _Ailsbury_ to soften their
+water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp that it
+will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its Original
+State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the Alcalous
+soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses.
+
+River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying,
+saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring
+sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the
+Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's
+heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict,
+that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of
+them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to
+avoid two that run cross a Road in _Bucks_ and _Hertfordshire_: But in
+their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy
+mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new
+fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the _Thames_
+water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the
+hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall
+hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time,
+when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a
+Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of
+Cattle, &c. and in good Air, as that of _Barkhamstead St. Peters_ in
+_Hertfordshire_ is; it may then justly claim the name of a most excellent
+water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same quantity
+of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the _Thames_
+has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as
+Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable
+degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn
+fine in a few Days after Tunning.
+
+Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best
+Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of
+Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very
+agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but
+for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well,
+as being apt to putrify the soonest of any.
+
+Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are
+good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the
+water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an
+open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it
+then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that
+of _Blew-pot_ Pond on the high Green at _Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ and
+many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of the
+soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or full
+of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as to
+force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of all
+others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are so
+low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to take
+out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant waters
+are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so far
+scrutinized into the prime Cause of our _British_ malady the Scurvy, as to
+affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating waters, and
+especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are about
+_Londonderry_ and _Amsterdam_, for that where the waters are worst, there
+this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings they have put it
+out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms that are rank'd
+under this general Name, if they don't take their beginning from such
+water, do own it to be their chief Cause.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VI.
+
+
+ _Of Grinding_ Malts.
+
+
+As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily
+deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the
+good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the
+Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will
+cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just
+broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate
+its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then
+an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same
+Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are
+likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they
+use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air,
+that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its
+harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt
+acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may
+be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition,
+and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more
+freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than
+if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better
+tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the
+leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they
+are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them
+what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt
+so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the
+great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but
+now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by
+the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge
+of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do
+before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of
+the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the
+Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at
+_London_ I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that
+with one Horse would grind [blank space] quarters an Hour, But in the
+Country I use a steel Hand-mill, that Cost at first forty Shillings;
+which will by the help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an
+Hour, and will last a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There
+are some old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries
+for and prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the
+Corn's body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the
+Malt so broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and
+regular Power to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more
+confin'd within its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in
+Use for their great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is
+frequently done by some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor
+as soon as it is ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a
+Day or two, that the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it
+received from the Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VII.
+
+
+_Of Brewing in general_.
+
+
+Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated
+Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been
+concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the
+Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it
+no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little;
+from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and
+Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed
+unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided
+thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some
+degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician
+enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones,
+Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we
+consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted
+Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again
+with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be
+very pernicious to the _British_ human Body especially, which certainly
+suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of Flesh that
+we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and therefore are
+more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick mucilaginous
+Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one makes a
+lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or less
+thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's fine.
+The late Curious _Simon Harcourt_ Esq; of _Penly_, whom I have had the
+honour to drink some of his famous _October_ with, thought the true Art of
+Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to Cost him near twenty Pounds
+to have an old Days-man taught it by a _Welch_ Brewer, and sure it was
+this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts afterwards in the Brewing
+of that which he called his _October_ Beer. So likewise in _London_ they
+lay such stress on this Art, that many have thought it worth their while
+to give one or two hundred Guineas with an Apprentice: This Consideration
+also made an Ambassador give an extraordinary Encouragement to one of my
+Acquaintance to go over with him, that was a great Master of this Science.
+But notwithstanding all that can be said that relates to this Subject,
+there are so many Incidents attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled
+several expert Men to account for their difference, though brewed by the
+same Brewer, with the same Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and
+Town, and tapp'd at the same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and
+well Tasted, while the others have not had any worth drinking, now this
+may be owing to the different Weather in the same Month, that might cause
+an Alteration in the working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be
+so convenient, or that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &c.
+But it has been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer
+constantly, and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in
+dry Vaults or Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been
+generally good. And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time
+is required to ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in
+Hogsheads, because the greater quantity must have the longer time; so also
+a greater quantity will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on
+this account the Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all
+others; but all under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep
+their Bodies. The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as
+being generally set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast,
+that greatly contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits
+of a most convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by
+its broad level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and
+preserving Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the
+long Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this
+time in greater Reputation than ever in _London_, and the Home-brew'd
+Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in
+its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded
+with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short
+Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter
+Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the
+Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and
+staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not
+admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that
+the handful of Salt which the _Plymouth_ Brewers put into their Hogshead,
+hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice of.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VIII.
+
+
+_The_ London _Method of Brewing_.
+
+
+In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a
+considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common
+Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well
+Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and
+Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice
+there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz.
+
+_For Stout Butt Beer_.
+
+
+This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often
+sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the
+wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the _London_
+Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first
+Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd
+over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very
+hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be
+in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the
+Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted,
+look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the
+Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the
+Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel
+of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any;
+immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the
+Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this
+they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square
+Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom
+into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an
+Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there
+is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash
+Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash
+again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an
+Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a
+half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd
+with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite
+Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made
+after the Stout.
+
+
+_For Brewing strong brown Ale called_ Stitch.
+
+
+This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer
+Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and
+is sold for Eight-pence _per_ Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun, and
+is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular
+Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by [Blank space] _Medlicot_
+Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him
+very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards.
+
+
+_For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer_.
+
+
+They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a
+greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the
+fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the
+Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same
+Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only
+boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer
+than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is
+often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is
+wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much
+fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose.
+
+
+_For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers_.
+
+
+As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or
+Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown
+Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the
+rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so
+also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more
+Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing
+pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second
+Book of Brewing.
+
+
+_For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer_.
+
+
+On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it,
+and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into
+the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar,
+and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost
+scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the
+Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the
+Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first
+wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be
+Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way
+in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because
+it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way
+for the hotter Liquor that is to follow.
+
+
+_The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from
+Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common
+Brewhouse_.
+
+
+For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and
+sold for thirty Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or strong
+brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and
+Fourpence _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel and
+a half or more, at sixteen Shillings _per_ Barrel, that holds thirty two
+Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six Barrels off a
+Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Pale
+and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling _per_ Gallon from
+the Tun.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. IX.
+
+
+_The Country or private way of Brewing_.
+
+
+Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised
+in _Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle_, and many other Places; but
+evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most
+serviceable both in Country and _London_ private Families. And first, I
+shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more
+than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the
+former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more
+Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person
+can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its
+united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less
+charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the
+private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt
+ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better
+clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast
+and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so
+well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too
+forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do;
+he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some
+measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a
+private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full
+thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran
+or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in
+the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the
+water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else
+lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the
+steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in
+about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel
+of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an
+Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just
+mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the
+old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that
+Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence
+or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will
+easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the
+after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run
+thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the
+water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the
+Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or
+small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to
+slow that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which
+will occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially
+if the _Dundle_ way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small
+as a Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the
+Barrel: Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then
+the second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and
+drawn out with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the
+Malt is done, then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt
+to the four Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be
+spread all over it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or
+other Cloths to keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it
+stand two or three Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a
+Bowl of the boiling water in the Copper as is before directed, and so
+continue to do till as much is run off as will almost fill the Copper;
+then in a Canvas or other loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops
+and boil them half an Hour, when they must be taken out, and as many
+fresh ones put in their room as is judged proper to boil half an Hour
+more, if for Ale: But if for keeping Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones
+should be put in at every half Hour's end, and Boil an Hour and a half
+briskly: Now while the first Copper of wort is Boiling, there should be
+scalding water leisurely put over the Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off,
+that the Copper may be filled again immediately after the first is out,
+and boiled an Hour with near the same quantity of fresh Hops, and in the
+same manner as those in the first Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for
+small Beer may be all cold water put over the Grains at once, or at
+twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with the Hops that has been boil'd
+before. But here I must observe, that sometimes I have not an
+opportunity to get hot water for making all my second Copper of wort,
+which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply what was wanting.
+Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead of Ale with the
+two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer with the other
+two, but this more or less according to please me, always taking Care to
+let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and cool in four
+or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many Hogsheads of
+midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong enough for
+myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping Beer, the
+first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the rest
+small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of for
+strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according to
+the _London_ Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with the
+Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper of
+good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they
+take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome
+the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt
+or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing
+done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most
+necessary in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or
+more Brands ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a
+burnt Toast of Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that
+this must not be done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood;
+lest it does more harm than good.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the
+former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in
+it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be
+ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt:
+This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring
+of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or
+_October_ Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was
+for Ale, or Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the
+Copper by remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and
+kept a Week or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to
+it, and may be brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this
+as well as in the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of
+wort into the Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes
+absolutely fine and clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good:
+Others will reserve this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it
+there a Week in Winter, or two or three Days in Summer, according to
+Conveniency, by putting fresh water every Day to it, and use it instead of
+water for the first Mash, alledging it is better so than boiled, because
+by that it is thickened and will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a
+Benefit to a Victualler that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small
+Beer; because for such small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there
+is no Excise to be pay'd.
+
+
+_For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer_.
+
+
+There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it
+from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other
+Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further
+enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or
+Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and
+wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but
+Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are
+there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no
+small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their
+Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this,
+and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this _Item_ and
+prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before any
+other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile
+small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear,
+put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then
+throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it
+stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot
+and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency
+allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold
+instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by
+putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of
+Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted
+twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit.
+Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a
+Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle
+gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had
+more leisure to brew better.
+
+
+_A particular way of Brewing strong_ October _Beer_.
+
+
+There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly
+after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all
+his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let
+the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the
+former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put
+again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this
+for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and
+put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for
+his _October_ Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods at
+once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an Hour
+undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot water
+put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was observed
+that his _October_ Beer was the most famous in the Country, but his Grains
+good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out all or most of
+their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and once his Beer
+did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost, yet when the
+weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards proved very
+good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in the Vat,
+and was never tapp'd under three Years.
+
+This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the
+Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the
+same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an
+opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more
+than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his
+_October_ or _March_ Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of _Penly
+October_ Beer is at this time well known not only throughout
+_Hertfordshire_, but several other remote Places, and truly not without
+desert, for in all my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a
+clear amber Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what
+excell'd all was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his
+Viands and this _October_ Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I
+remember his usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my
+_October_, and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not
+only the rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even
+in advance, whenever they had Business at _Penly_, as expecting a
+refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a
+good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater
+Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the
+Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap.
+
+
+_Of Brewing Molosses Beer_.
+
+
+Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in
+the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer
+when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of
+fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse,
+and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings _per_ Quarter, and like to be
+so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable excellent
+Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book intituled,
+_Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_: There is no great danger of that,
+Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very unwholsome,
+because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of Treacle
+into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as very
+probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker: Tho'
+in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have known
+some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does not
+breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep open
+the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose they
+put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first mixing
+it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops or more
+one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons.
+
+
+_A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or_ October _Beer
+from_ Nottingham.
+
+
+His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for
+four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he
+puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam
+is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot
+water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will
+bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run
+leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as
+can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling;
+when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in
+the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the
+next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or
+Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or
+Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be
+returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless
+the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it
+will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen
+Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over
+he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is
+running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock
+spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty
+one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub,
+wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the
+second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper
+boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former
+was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out
+into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first
+wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden
+Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to
+preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then
+upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas
+or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the
+Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away
+very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues
+boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged,
+and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very
+thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and
+boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity
+of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will
+be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with
+some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as
+the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four
+Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if
+necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will
+make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding
+of Hogs.
+
+
+_Observations on the foregoing Method_.
+
+
+The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet
+three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is
+expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of
+water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned.
+
+By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt
+is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way
+made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides
+the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream
+than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that
+discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual
+running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of
+sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook
+is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the
+very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink.
+
+This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort
+from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his
+first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and
+when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick
+to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled
+or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the
+Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the
+Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of
+putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect
+Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin.
+
+By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is
+thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so
+agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping _October_
+Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter
+is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer
+is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of
+Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more
+strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some
+Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept.
+
+I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a
+standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break
+or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an
+Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and
+Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that
+boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the
+thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first
+away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye
+in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole
+cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the
+wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity
+may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in
+the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss
+than Profit.
+
+I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop
+in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great
+damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the
+spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. X.
+
+
+_The Nature and Use of the Hop_.
+
+
+This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on
+the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient,
+and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that
+falacious Notion is obviated by Dr_.Quincy_ and others, who have proved
+that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that
+mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a
+dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been
+infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old
+ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on
+as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature,
+composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and
+with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the
+Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure
+Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both
+ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great
+Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak
+Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two
+Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three
+for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of
+Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And
+according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of
+the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour,
+then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of
+fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an
+opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself
+the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the
+Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the
+same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but
+observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the
+Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's
+true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater
+quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the
+desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time
+will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider
+their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in
+their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be
+much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as
+well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to
+give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that
+many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt
+Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not
+lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little
+Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they
+acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have
+been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as
+they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my
+Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it
+would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be
+in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling
+Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most
+general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in
+its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order.
+
+After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have
+thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same
+time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve
+to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been
+sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it
+is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless.
+
+When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they
+buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others _Daucus_ or wild
+Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor
+People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their
+wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb _Horehound_, which indeed is a
+fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons.
+
+But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite,
+as I have already done of a _London_ one, and that is, of an Arch Fellow
+that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to save all
+the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean, then
+would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of
+_Horehound_ on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and
+bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them
+for new Hops.
+
+Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose
+Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the
+Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body;
+they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy,
+valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but
+in raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper,
+and afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before
+hinted.
+
+Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is
+greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany
+both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to
+tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding
+the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be
+so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes
+our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are
+made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be
+planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their
+Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice.
+
+For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops
+that were then two Shillings _per_ Pound, use but a quartern instead of a
+Pound, the rest he supplied with _Daucus_ Seeds; but to be more
+particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several
+Impositions. _First_, He underboil'd his Wort to save its Consumption:
+_Secondly_, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and _Thirdly_, He beat
+the Yeast in for some time to encrease the strength of the Drink; and all
+these in such a _Legerdemain_ manner as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant
+Drinker to such a degree as not to suspect the Fraud, and that for these
+three Reasons: _First_, The underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste
+than ordinary, was esteemed the Produce of a great allowance of Malt.
+_Secondly_, The _Daucus_ Seed encreased their approbation by the fine
+Peach flavour or relish that it gives the Drink; and _Thirdly_, The Yeast
+was not so much as thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor.
+These artificial Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so
+prevalent with the Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known
+this Victualler have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had
+much more wholsome at the same time; for the _Daucus_ Seed tho' it is a
+Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort
+it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the
+clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a
+Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing
+Obstructions of the _Viscera_, and particularly of the Liver and Kidneys,
+as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops are a
+Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XI.
+
+
+_Of Boiling Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling _October_
+Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that
+an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some
+Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all
+sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be
+curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but
+afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean
+and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard
+not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this
+will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its
+being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has
+the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays,
+then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because
+it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort.
+
+It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in
+the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it
+should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less
+than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the
+Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer.
+
+Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if
+too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be
+unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest
+our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other
+misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to
+staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full
+time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then
+thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the
+Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be
+right clear in the Barrel; an _Item_ sufficient to shew the mistake of all
+those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or three
+Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than good
+to the Drink.
+
+But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I
+have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good,
+because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways
+detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of
+the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it
+running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are
+not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great
+measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the
+Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and
+comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which
+consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and
+secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured
+before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread,
+that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in
+those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole
+Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling
+of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an
+eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the
+nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the
+genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save
+the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great
+Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford
+such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded
+People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an _Ignis fatuus_, or what
+is not.
+
+To come then to the _Crisis_ of the Matter, both Time and the Curdling or
+Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was to boil the
+Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it was rightly
+broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not be fine nor
+wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two Hours, without
+regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it may be too
+thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to obtain it its
+due order; therefore in _October_ and keeping Beers, an Hour and a
+quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a thorough cured
+Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil enough, and
+because in this there is a double Security by length of boiling, and a
+quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only a single one,
+and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops boiled only half
+an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is assigned, that the
+Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities, will by them and
+their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling the Wort; and that
+a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only the fine wholsome
+strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink, exclusive of the
+phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted if the Hops were
+to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are many now, that
+are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew Ale or _October_
+Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet, that if Hops are
+boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or more of their
+worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer, cannot be exactly
+adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the Proportion should be
+according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the Season of the Year it
+is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be kept.
+
+For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an
+Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd
+in three Weeks or a Month.
+
+If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a
+quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months,
+there should be more Hops allowed.
+
+For _October_ or _March_ brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven Bushels
+of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months, three Pounds
+and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least.
+
+For _October_ or _March_, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels, boiled an
+Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to be allowed
+to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted in two Bags,
+and less time given the Wort to boil.
+
+Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly
+improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in
+Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so;
+but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an
+Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well
+relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly
+wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly
+publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just
+enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XII.
+
+
+_Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by
+divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too
+thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one
+after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors
+taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great
+Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his
+Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to
+him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all
+Servants that Name the word _Fox_ or _Foxing_, in the Brewhouse to pay
+Sixpence, which obliges them to call it _Reynards_; for when once the
+Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like a _Fox_;
+It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and Ale so Tainted
+to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is receive'd in a
+great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short time turn Sour.
+This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers, that they have
+asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his Master's Interest
+tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the Malt that causes that
+sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home how cleverly he came
+off. I have had it also in the Country more than once, and that by the
+idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub has been rinced out
+only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one but this won't do with
+a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub with a Hand-brush,
+Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot scrape any Dirt up
+under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has baffled the Efforts
+of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding out a Remedy for the
+great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on this Score.
+
+And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and
+curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of
+the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it
+before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness
+and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of
+such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in
+hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there
+is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain
+that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts:
+So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is
+apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or
+working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such
+Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the
+Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and
+work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order;
+but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross
+nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel,
+corrupt and make it worse.
+
+Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the
+Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or
+Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but
+then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as
+fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind.
+
+There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and
+Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my
+Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged
+in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how
+scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the
+Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful
+Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the
+same.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIII
+
+
+_Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice
+of Beating in the Yeast detected_.
+
+
+This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the
+ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much
+discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under
+many Years, especially by the _Northern_ Brewers, who tho' much famed for
+their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their Example
+in the _Southern_ and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet I shall
+endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in the Yeast,
+as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom ought not to
+Authorize an ill Practice. _First_, I shall observe that Yeast is a very
+strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous Qualities, whose
+Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are by a mixture with
+them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion, occasion'd by
+Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous Parts of the Wort
+will be continually striving to get up to the Surface, the glutinous
+adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding their assent,
+and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous Particles are set
+loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may appear by the Froth
+on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens the Operation, as it
+assists in opening the viscidities in which some spirituous Parts may be
+entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included Air: The viscid Parts
+which are raised to the Top, not only on account of their own lightness,
+but by the continual efforts and occursions of the Spirits to get
+uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and prevent the finer
+Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine Operation is permitted
+to continue too long, a great deal will get away, and the remaining grow
+flat and vapid, as Dr. _Quincy_ well observes. Now tho' a small quantity
+of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of Corruption in the Wort, yet it
+is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many other Acids are; for if a
+Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist as some have done for an
+Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or Blisters in some degree like
+that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a particular Sense to call it)
+Ingredient _Cantharide_, which is one of the Shop Poisons. Here then I
+shall observe, that I have known several beat the Yeast into the Wort for
+a Week or more together to improve it, or in plainer terms to load the
+Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous Particles; and that for two
+Reasons, _First_, Because it will make the Liquor so heady, that five
+Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to six, and that by the
+stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which mercenary subtilty and
+imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with the Vulgar and Ignorant,
+that it has caused many of them to return the next Day to the same
+Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better Drink than others: But
+alas, how are such deceived that know no other than that it is the pure
+Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are driving Nails into
+their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the corrupt Qualities of
+this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have proved, by suffering
+violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other Inconveniencies the Day
+following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch of such Liquor; who would
+not perhaps for a great reward swallow a Spoonful of thick Yeast by
+itself, and yet without any concern may receive for ought they know
+several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the corrosive
+Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail (when
+forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same
+mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this
+difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the
+animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost
+recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a
+most learned Doctor observes.
+
+_Secondly_, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it gives it
+a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at _London_, it makes the Ale
+bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other reason than to
+further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some Bigots, to me it
+proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous taste; however my
+surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the _Plymouth_ People, who are quite
+the reverse of them at _Dover_ and _Chatham_; for the first are so
+attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have undone themselves by
+drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to the common Brewers
+brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they immediately put in
+a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring it up, this is no
+sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may carry a Froth on the
+Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt commonly answered its
+End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the great Quantities they
+drank, that it farther excited by the biting pleasant stimulating quality
+the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower also had its seducing share
+by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its mantling Froth, so that the Sailors
+that are often here in great Numbers used to consume many Hogsheads of
+this common Ale with much delight, as thinking it was intirely the pure
+Product of the Malt.
+
+Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with
+what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower
+of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a _Nostrum_ made and sold only by two
+or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by many
+of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen Steens,
+in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for Twopence
+Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to be drank
+by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a prevalent
+Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the _Dover_ and _Chatham_ People
+won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong.
+
+
+_Of working and fermenting_ London _Stout Beer and Ale_.
+
+
+In my Brewhouse at _London_, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun to
+work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of doing
+otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the same
+Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means, and
+the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot make
+Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working of
+those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the Year,
+as most of the great ones do in _London_, and some others five times. The
+strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in the Winter
+when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two Nights and a
+Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation as the common
+brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty, such Beer
+won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale has indeed
+its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they carry it away
+the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly draw it out
+in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often kept near it,
+not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better incorporating the
+Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the foregoing Reasons.
+
+
+_Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families_.
+
+
+I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private
+Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of
+the Ales; the way that is used in _Northamptonshire_, and by good Brewers
+elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm Wort in a
+Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it works out
+and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in Summer, and
+almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it will keep,
+too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick a motion,
+whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon, and then the
+Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never natural; but
+when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd Head, its
+Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right management of
+the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine Months, I put
+a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will admit of, two
+Days together, in _October_ or _March_, and if I find it works too fast, I
+check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort with a Hand-bowl: So
+likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same method, because of
+having them keep some time, and this is so nicely observed by several,
+that I have seen them do the very same by their small Beer Wort; now by
+these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often new Commotions
+raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to the rarefaction
+and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these joining
+Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered smoother, or
+that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from making their
+Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small Liquors
+generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a Bottle,
+and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank.
+
+Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up
+towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the
+Hand-bowl or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a
+manner, they put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the
+Sediments at Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub
+near the Cask to fill it up as it works over, and when it has done
+working, leave it with a thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it.
+
+But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and
+beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in
+the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work
+heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the
+same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs
+behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in
+the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But
+this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have
+sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never
+revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all
+light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human
+Body.
+
+
+_Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors_.
+
+
+In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast
+some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the
+Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold
+out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will
+so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone
+Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put
+into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some
+time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort,
+which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken
+that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest
+it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some
+nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into
+it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated
+in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper
+of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more
+Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several
+other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury.
+Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of
+two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it
+either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring
+it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran
+in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and
+flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and
+breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town
+in _Bucks_ that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first, and
+then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the Beer or
+Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must own is
+very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are to lye
+nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will be
+wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must
+consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top
+and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial
+Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will
+better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore
+I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great
+End.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIV.
+
+
+ _Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on_.
+
+
+This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt
+Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them,
+because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers
+drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that
+lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops
+and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their
+long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make
+it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the
+Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are
+sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in
+Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill
+property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in _London_) new
+thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a Leather
+Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar, which I
+shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is, by many
+put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a
+substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about
+three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there
+Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others
+there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't
+touch the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and
+collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which
+it is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put
+into Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a
+Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating
+the inebriating Toast, and therefore the _Frenchman_ says, the _English_
+are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it:
+Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the
+unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a
+corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the
+_North_ will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease and
+Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body than
+whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But whether it
+be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle has emitted
+its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can of the acid
+qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey upon that
+again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of Man, as
+Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have seen in
+the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly scorn'd
+what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such corroding
+consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised that such
+Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at furthest,
+and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do good and
+not harm.
+
+
+_An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with_.
+
+
+Take a Quart of _French_ Brandy, or as much of _English_, that is free
+from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to this put as
+much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in long pieces
+into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or afterwards,
+and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the Butt, this will
+maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness off for some
+time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged.
+
+
+ANOTHER.
+
+
+Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed
+Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon
+as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will
+both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great
+while.
+
+
+ANOTHER.
+
+
+Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with
+two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of
+coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid.
+
+
+_To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the
+Wort_.
+
+
+This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and
+Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle,
+or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it
+boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling
+Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second
+Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being
+incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous
+Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is
+more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if
+such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as
+being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+A Woman, who lived at _Leighton Buzzard_ in _Bedfordshire_, and had the
+best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just done
+working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was fine
+enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little while
+a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she boiled in
+her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine accidentally
+had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper; so will
+Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being great finers
+and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and sourness, and are
+certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put into a Cask when
+you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose; but these are
+dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great measure
+supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor Body, or
+to the Hog.
+
+
+_To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of
+the Hogshead and stop it close.
+
+
+_To recover deadish Beer_.
+
+
+When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or
+five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim
+it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will
+make it pleasant, quick and strong.
+
+
+ _To make stale Beer drink new_.
+
+
+Take the Herb _Horehound_ stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful of
+the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of Beer,
+let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it.
+
+
+ _To fine Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well
+together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom,
+and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and
+put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass
+first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the
+Barrel will settle and clear.
+
+There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose,
+but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls
+that Mr. _Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ has found out by
+his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers and Relishers
+of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd Drinks, as I
+have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a further Account of
+some other things that will fine, colour and improve Malt Drinks: The
+Balls are sold at [missing text]
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XV.
+
+
+_Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease their
+Strength_.
+
+
+Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the
+disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and
+ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the
+precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life,
+is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the
+Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the
+greatest, of the Lord _Bacon's_ Reasons for saying, he thought not one
+_Englishman_ in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed to be
+much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the Publicans make
+it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness what I am afraid
+is too true, that some have made use of the _Coculus India_ Berry for
+making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt; but as this is a
+violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if taken in too large
+a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of its use than an
+invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly Nightshade, that
+it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is bad enough; for
+one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its Berries that grow
+in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black Cherry, that the
+Boy took the wrong for the right.
+
+There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill
+Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is _Coriander_
+Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of
+which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me
+by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers
+(for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such
+Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how
+wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way
+first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it
+is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it.
+Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink;
+but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a
+general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without
+doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides
+the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake
+then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts
+for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true
+healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of
+this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I
+hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such
+unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort,
+but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now
+only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for
+Reasons that I could here assign.
+
+I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick
+by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them
+wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I
+hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear
+salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and
+Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVI.
+
+
+_Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales_.
+
+
+It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a
+Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel,
+Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of
+forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in
+cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where
+Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence
+will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it
+from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather
+and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the
+Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very
+likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep
+Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in _October_, that the Drink
+may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in
+wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in _March_, that the Drink may
+have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced. Now
+such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a
+temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have
+double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then
+carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it
+will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places,
+that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently
+disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept
+dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in
+Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels
+or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more
+than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths,
+which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all
+damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and
+sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones;
+Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have
+lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate
+Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and
+softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the
+Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be
+disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in
+some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with
+Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults
+or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding
+any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar
+that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour,
+tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again;
+and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in
+_March_ and their brown in _October_, for that the pale Malt, having not
+so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need of the
+Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard and dry
+is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will help to
+smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too violent,
+Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification against them;
+but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be better.
+
+Some are of Opinion, that _October_ is the best of all other Months to
+brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months directly
+follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that Brewed in
+_March_ because such Beer will not want that Care and Watching, as that
+brewed in _March_ absolutely requires, by often taking out and putting in
+the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is always left out, then it
+deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is not taken in this respect,
+a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by making the Drink ferment and
+burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron Hoops are most in Fashion at
+this time, they are certainly the greatest Security to the safety of the
+Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the Chesnut Hoop; both which will
+endure a shorter or longer time as the Cellar is more or less dry, and the
+Management attending them. The Iron Hoop generally begins to rust first at
+the Edges, and therefore should be rubbed off when opportunity offers, and
+be both kept from wet as much as possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the
+Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or twelve Years, when the Ashen and
+Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three times as long.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVII.
+
+
+_Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks_.
+
+
+In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees
+clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a
+long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as
+well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter
+Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so
+imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a
+Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used
+with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the
+outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the
+Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it.
+
+But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses,
+they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of
+the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a
+furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will
+be apt to fall in pieces.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this
+pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the
+end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to
+the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten,
+but help to fine the Drink.
+
+
+ _Another_.
+
+
+Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus:
+Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two
+Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip
+therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders
+of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire,
+and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden
+Bung, so that no Smoke comes out.
+
+
+ _For a Musty Cask_.
+
+
+Boil some Pepper in water and fill the Cask with it scalding hot.
+
+
+ _For a very stinking Vessel_.
+
+
+The last Remedy is the Coopers taking out one of the Heads of the Cask to
+scrape the inside, or new-shave the Staves, and is the surest way of all
+others, if it is fired afterwards within-side a small matter, as the
+Cooper knows how.
+
+These several Methods may be made use of at Discretion, and will be of
+great Service where they are wanted. The sooner also a Remedy is applied,
+the better; else the Taint commonly encreases, as many have to their
+prejudice proved, who have made use of such Casks, in hopes the next Beer
+will overcome it; but when once a Cask is infected, it will be a long
+while, if ever, before it becomes sweet, if no Art is used. Many therefore
+of the careful sort, in case they han't a Convenience to fill their Vessel
+as soon as it is empty, will stop it close, to prevent the Air and
+preserve the Lees sound, which will greatly tend to the keeping of the
+Cask pure and sweet against the next Occasion.
+
+ _To prepare a new Vessel to keep Malt Liquors in_.
+
+A new Vessel is most improperly used by some ignorant People for strong
+Drink after only once or twice scalding with Water, which is so wrong,
+that such Beer or Ale will not fail of tasting thereof for half, if not a
+whole Year afterwards; such is the Tang of the Oak and its Bark, as may be
+observed from the strong Scents of Tan-Yards, which the Bark is one cause
+of. To prevent then this Inconvenience, when your Brewing is over put up
+some Water scalding hot, and let it run throu' the Grains, then boil it
+and fill up the Cask, stop it well and let it stand till it is cold, do
+this twice, then take the Grounds of strong Drink and boil in it green
+Wallnut Leaves and new Hay or Wheat Straw, and put all into the Cask, that
+it be full and stop it close. After this, use it for small Beer half a
+Year together, and then it will be thoroughly sweet and fit for strong
+Drinks; or
+
+
+ _Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a new Cask and dig a Hole in the Ground, in which it may lye half
+depth with the Bung downwards; let it remain a Week, and it will greatly
+help this or any stinking musty Cask. But besides these, I have writ of
+two other excellent Ways to sweeten musty or stinking Casks, in my Second
+Book of Brewing.
+
+
+_Wine Casks_.
+
+
+These, in my Opinion, are the cheapest of all others to furnish a Person
+readily with, as being many of them good Casks for Malt Liquors, because
+the Sack and White-Wine sorts are already season'd to Hand, and will
+greatly improve Beers and Ales that are put in them: But beware of the
+Rhenish Wine Cask for strong Drinks; for its Wood is so tinctured with
+this sharp Wine, that it will hardly ever be free of it, and therefore
+such Cask is best used for Small Beer: The Claret Cask will a great deal
+sooner be brought into a serviceable State for holding strong Drink, if it
+is two or three times scalded with Grounds of Barrels, and afterwards used
+for small Beer for some time. I have bought a Butt or Pipe for eight
+Shillings in _London_ with some Iron Hoops on it, a good Hogshead for the
+same, and the half Hogshead for five Shillings, the Carriage for a Butt by
+the Waggon thirty Miles is two Shillings and Sixpence, and the Hogshead
+Eighteen-pence: But, to cure a Claret Cask of its Colour and Taste, put a
+Peck of Stone-Lime into a Hogshead, and pour upon it three Pails of Water;
+bung immediately with a Wood-or Cork Bung, and shake it well about a
+quarter of an Hour, and let it stand a Day and Night and it will bring off
+the red Colour, and alter the Taste of the Cask very much. But of three
+several other excellent Methods for curing musty, stinking, new and other
+tainted Casks, I have writ of in my Account of Casks in my Second Book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVIII.
+
+
+_Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of Malt Liquors to some distance_.
+
+
+I am sure this is of no small Consequence, however it may be esteemed as a
+light matter by some; for if this is not duly perform'd, all our Charge,
+Labour and Care will be lost; and therefore here I shall dissent from my
+_London_ Fashion, where I bung'd up my Ale with Pots of Clay only, or with
+Clay mix'd with Bay Salt, which is the better of the two, because this
+Salt will keep the Clay moist longer than in its Original State; and the
+Butt Beers and fine Ales were Bung'd with Cork drove in with a piece of
+Hop-Sack or Rag, which I think are all insipid, and the occasion of
+spoiling great Quantities of Drink, especially the small Beers; for when
+the Clay is dry, which is soon in Summer, there cannot be a regular Vent
+thro' it, and then the Drink from that time flattens and stales to the
+great loss in a Year to some Owners, and the Benefit of the Brewer; for
+then a fresh Cask must be Tapp'd to supply it, and the remaining part of
+the other throw'd away. Now, to prevent this great Inconvenience, my
+Bung-holes are not quite of the largest size of all, and yet big enough
+for the common wooden Iron Hoop'd Funnel used in some Brew-houses: In this
+I put in a turned piece of Ash or Sallow three Inches broad at Top, and
+two Inches and a half long, first putting in a double piece of dry brown
+Paper, that is so broad that an Inch or more may be out of it, after the
+wooden Bung is drove down with a Hammer pretty tight; this Paper must be
+furl'd or twisted round the Bung, and another loose piece upon and around
+that, with a little Yeast, and a small Peg put into the Bung, which is to
+be raised at Discretion when the Beer is drawing, or at other times to
+give it Vent if there should be occasion: Others will put some Coal or
+Wood Ashes wetted round this Bung, which will bind very hard, and prevent
+any Air getting into or out of the Cask; but this in time is apt to rot,
+and wear the Bung-hole by the Salt or Sulphur in the Ashes, and employing
+a Knife to scrape it afterwards. Yet, for keeping Beers, it's the best
+Security of all other ways whatsoever.
+
+There is also a late Invention practised by a common Brewer in the Country
+that I am acquainted with, for the safe Carriage of Drink on Drays, to
+some distance without losing any of it, and that is in the Top Center of
+one of these Bungs, he puts in a wooden Funnel, whose Spout is about four
+Inches long, and less than half an Inch Diameter at Bottom; this is turned
+at Top into a concave Fashion like a hollow round Bowl, that will hold
+about a Pint, which is a constant Vent to the Cask, and yet hinders the
+Liquor from ascending no faster than the Bowl can receive, and return it
+again into the Barrel: I may say further, he has brought a Barrel two
+Miles, and it was then full, when it arrived at his Customers, because the
+Pint that was put into the Funnel, at setting out, was not at all lost
+when he took it off the Dray; this may be also made of Tin; and will serve
+from the Butt to the small Cask.
+
+In the Butt there is a Cork-hole made about two Inches below the upper
+Head, and close under that a piece of Leather is nailed Spout-fashion,
+that jetts three Inches out, from which the Yeast works and falls into a
+Tub, and when the working is over the Cork is put closely in, for the Bung
+in the Head of the upright Cask is put in as soon as it is filled up with
+new Drink: Now when such a Cask is to be broach'd and a quick Draught is
+to follow, then it may be tapp'd at Bottom; but if otherwise, the Brass
+Cock ought to be first put in at the middle, and before the Drink sinks to
+that it should be Tapp'd at Bottom to prevent the breaking of the Head of
+Yeast, and its growing stale, flat and sour.
+
+In some Places in the Country when they brew Ale or Beer to send to
+_London_ at a great Distance, they let it be a Year old before they Tap
+it, so that then it is perfectly fine; this they put into small Casks that
+have a Bung-hole only fit for a large Cork, and then they immediately put
+in a Role of Bean-flour first kneaded with Water or Drink, and baked in an
+Oven, which is all secured by pitching in the Cork, and so sent in the
+Waggon; the Bean-flour feeding and preserving the Body of the Drink all
+the way, without fretting or causing it to burst the Cask for want of
+Vent, and when Tapp'd will also make the Drink very brisk, because the
+Flour is in such a hard Consistence, that it won't dissolve in that time;
+but if a little does mix with the Ale or Beer, its heavy Parts will sooner
+fine than thicken the Drink and keep it mellow and lively to the last, if
+Air is kept out of the Barrel.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIX.
+
+
+_Of the Strength and Age of Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Whether they be Ales or strong Beers, it is certain that the midling sort
+is allowed by Physicians to be the most agreeable of any, especially to
+those of a sedentary Life, or those that are not occupied in such Business
+as promotes Perspiration enough to throw out and break the Viscidities of
+the stronger sorts; on which account the laborious Man has the advantage,
+whose Diet being poor and Body robust, the strength of such Liquors gives
+a Supply and better digests into Nourishment: But for the unactive Man a
+Hogshead of Ale which is made from six Bushels of Malt is sufficient for a
+Diluter of their Food, and will better assist their Constitution than the
+more strong sort, that would in such produce Obstructions and ill Humours;
+and therefore that Quantity for Ale, and ten Bushels for a Hogshead of
+strong Beer that should not be Tapp'd under nine Months, is the most
+healthful. And this I have experienc'd by enjoying such an Amber Liquor
+that has been truly brewed from good Malt, as to be of a Vinous Nature,
+that would permit of a hearty Dose over Night, and yet the next Morning
+leave a Person light, brisk and unconcern'd. This then is the true Nostrum
+of Brewing, and ought to be studied and endeavoured for by all those that
+can afford to follow the foregoing Rules, and then it will supply in a
+great measure those chargeable (and often adulterated tartarous
+arthritick) Wines. So likewise for small Beer, especially in a Farmer's
+Family where it is not of a Body enough, the Drinkers will be feeble in
+hot Weather and not be able to perform their Work, and will also bring on
+Distempers, besides the loss of time, and a great waste of such Beer that
+is generally much thrown away; because Drink is certainly a Nourisher of
+the Body, as well as Meats, and the more substantial they both are, the
+better will the Labourer go through his Work, especially at Harvest; and
+in large Families the Doctor's Bills have proved the Evil of this bad
+Oeconomy, and far surmounted the Charge of that Malt that would have kept
+the Servants in good Health, and preserved the Beer from such Waste as the
+smaller sort is liable to.
+
+'Tis therefore that some prudent Farmers will brew their Ale and small
+Beer in _March_, by allowing of five or six Bushels of Malt, and two
+Pounds of Hops to the Hogshead of Ale, and a quarter of Malt and three
+Pounds of Hops to five Barrels of small Beer. Others there are, that will
+brew their Ale or strong Beer in _October_, and their small Beer a Month
+before it is wanted. Others will brew their Ale and small Beer in _April,
+May_ and _June_; but this according to humour, and therefore I have hinted
+of the several Seasons for Brewing these Liquors: However in my Opinion,
+whether it be strong or small Drinks, they should be clear, smooth and not
+too small, if they are design'd for Profit and Health; for if they are
+otherwise, it will be a sad Evil to Harvest Men, because then they stand
+most in need of the greatest Balsamicks: To this end some of the softning
+Ingredients mentioned in the foregoing Receipts should be made use of to
+feed it accordingly, if these Drinks are brewed forward. And that this
+particular important Article in the Brewing Oeconomy may be better
+understood, I shall here recite Dr. _Quincy_'s Opinion of Malt Liquors,
+viz. The Age of Malt Drinks makes them more or less wholsome, and seems to
+do somewhat the same as Hops; for those Liquors which are longest kept,
+are certainly the least viscid; Age by degrees breaking the viscid Parts,
+and rendering them smaller, makes them finer for Secretion; but this is
+always to be determined by their Strength, because in Proportion to that
+will they sooner or later come to their full Perfection and likewise their
+Decay, until the finer Spirits quite make their Escape, and the remainder
+becomes vapid and sour. By what therefore has been already said, it will
+appear that the older Drinks are the more healthful, so they be kept up to
+this Standard, but not beyond it. Some therefore are of Opinion, that
+strong Beer brewed in _October_ should be Tapp'd at _Midsummer_, and that
+brewed in _March_ at _Christmas_, as being most agreeable to the Seasons
+of the Year that follow such Brewings: For then they will both have part
+of a Summer and Winter to ripen and digest their several Bodies; and 'tis
+my humble Opinion, that where the Strength of the Beer, the Quantity of
+Hops, the boiling Fermentation and the Cask are all rightly managed, there
+Drink may be most excellent, and better at nine Months Age, than at nine
+Years, for Health and Pleasure of Body. But to be truly certain of the
+right Time, there should be first an Examination made by Pegging the
+Vessel to prove if such Drink is fine, the Hop sufficiently rotted, and it
+be mellow and well tasted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XX.
+
+
+_Of the Pleasure and Profit of Private Brewing, and the Charge of buying
+Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Here I am to treat of the main Article of shewing the difference between
+brewing our own Ales and Beers, and buying them, which I doubt not will
+appear so plain and evident, as to convince any Reader, that many Persons
+may save well towards half in half, and have their Beer and Ale strong,
+fine and aged at their own Discretion: A satisfaction that is of no small
+weight, and the rather since I have now made known a Method of Brewing a
+Quantity of Malt with a little Copper and a few Tubs, a Secret that has
+long wanted Publication; for now a Person may Brew in a little Room, and
+that very safely by keeping his Wort from Foxing, as I have already
+explained, which by many has been thought impossible heretofore; and this
+Direction is the more Valuable as there are many Thousands who live in
+Cities and Towns, that have no more than a few Yards Square of Room to
+perform a private Brewing in. And as for the trouble, it is easy to
+account for by those who have time enough on their Hands, and would do
+nothing else if they had not done this: Or if a Man is paid half a Crown a
+Day for a Quantity accordingly: Or if a Servant can do this besides his
+other Work for the same Wages and Charge, I believe the following account
+will make it appear it is over-ballanc'd considerably, by what such a
+Person may save in this undertaking, besides the Pleasure of thoroughly
+knowing the several Ingredients and Cleanliness of the Brewer and
+Utensils. In several of the Northern Counties of _England_, where they
+have good Barley, Coak-dryed Malt, and the Drink brewed at Home, there are
+seldom any bad Ales or Beers, because they have the Knowledge in Brewing
+so well, that there are hardly any common Brewers amongst them: In the
+West indeed there are some few, but in the South and East Parts there are
+many; and now follows the Account, that I have Stated according to my own
+general Practice, viz.
+
+_A Calculation of the Charge and Profit of Brewing six Bushels of Malt for
+a private Family_.
+
+ £. s. d.
+ Six Bushels of Malt at 2s. 8d.
+ _per_ Bushel, Barley being this )
+ Year 1733. sold for 14s. _per_ ) 0 16 0
+ Quarter by the Farmer )
+
+ Hops one Pound 0 1 6
+
+ Yeast a Quart 0 0 4
+
+ Coals one Bushel, or if Wood or Furze 0 1 0
+
+ A Man's Wages a Day 0 2 6
+ ------------
+ Total 1 1 4
+
+_Of these six Bushels of Malt I make one Hogshead of Ale and another of
+Small Beer: But if I was to buy them of some common Brewers, the Charge
+will be as follows_, viz.
+
+ £ s. d.
+
+ One Hogshead of Ale containing 48 )
+ Gallons, at 6 _d. per_ Gallon is ) 1 4 0
+
+ One Hogshead of Small Beer )
+ containing 54 Gallons, at 2 _d_. )
+ 0 9 0 _per_ Gallon is ) 0 9 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ 1 13 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ Total Saved 0 11 8
+
+By the above Account it plainly appears, that 11 s. and 8 d. is clearly
+gained in Brewing of six Bushels of Malt at our own House for a private
+Family, and yet I make the Charge fuller by 2 s. and 6 d. then it will
+happen with many, whose Conveniency by Servants, &c. may intirely take it
+off; besides the six Bushels of Grains that are currently sold for
+Three-pence the Bushel, which will make the Eleven and Eight-pence more by
+four Shillings, without reckoning any thing for yeast, that in the very
+cheapest time sells here for Four-pence the Quart, and many times there
+happens three Quarts from so much Drink; so that there may possibly be
+gained in all sixteen Shillings and Eight-pence: A fine Sum indeed in so
+small a Quantity of Malt. But here by course will arise a Question,
+whether this Ale is as good as that bought of some of the common Brewers
+at Six-pence a Gallon; I can't say all is; however I can aver this, that
+the Ale I brew in the Country from six Bushels of Malt for my Family, I
+think is generally full as good, if not better than any I ever sold at
+that Price in my _London_ Brewhouse: And if I should say, that where the
+Malt, Water and Hops are right good, and the Brewer's Skill answerable to
+them, there might be a Hogshead of as good Ale and another of small Beer
+made from five Bushels as I desire to use for my Family, or for Harvest
+Men; It is no more than I have many times experienced, and 'tis the common
+length I made for that Purpose. And whoever makes use of true Pale and
+Amber Malts, and pursues the Directions of this Book, I doubt not but will
+have their Expectation fully answered in this last Quantity, and so save
+the great Expence of Excise that the common Brewers Drink is always
+clogg'd with, which is [blotted text] than five Shillings for Ale and
+Eighteen-pence _per_ Barrel for Small Beer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XXI.
+
+
+_A Philosophical Account for Brewing strong_ October _Beer. By an
+Ingenious Hand_.
+
+
+In Brewing, your Malt ought to be sound and good, and after its making to
+lye two or more Months in the Heap, to come to such a temper, that the
+Kernel may readily melt in the washing.
+
+The well dressing your Malt, ought to be one chief Care; for unless it be
+freed from the Tails and Dust, your Drink will not be fine and mellow as
+when it is clean dressed.
+
+The grinding also must be considered according to the high or low drying
+of the Malt; for if high dryed, then a gross grinding is best, otherwise a
+smaller may be done; for the Care in grinding consists herein, lest too
+much of the Husk being ground small should mix with the Liquor, which
+makes a gross Feces, and consequently your Drink will have too fierce a
+Fermentation, and by that means make it Acid, or that we call Stale.
+
+When your Malt is ground, let it stand in Sacks twenty-four Hours at
+least, to the end that the Heat in grinding may be allayed, and 'tis
+conceived by its so standing that the Kernel will dissolve the better.
+
+The measure and quantity we allow of Hops and Malt, is five Quarter of
+Malt to three Hogsheads of Beer, and eighteen Pounds of Hops at least to
+that Quantity of Malt, and if Malt be pale dryed, then add three or four
+Pounds of Hops more.
+
+The Choice of Liquor for Brewing is of considerable advantage in making
+good Drink, the softest and cleanest water is to be prererr'd, your harsh
+water is not to be made use of.
+
+You are to boil your first Liquor, adding a Handful or two of Hops to it,
+then before you strike it over to your Goods or Malt, cool in as much
+Liquor, as will bring it to a temper not to scald the Malt, for it is a
+fault not to take the Liquor as high as possible but not to scald. The
+next Liquors do the same.
+
+And indeed all your Liquors ought to be taken as high as may be, that is
+not to scald.
+
+When you let your Wort from your Malt into the Underback, put to it a
+Handful or two of Hops, 'twill preserve it from that accident which
+Brewers call Blinking or Foxing.
+
+In boiling your Worts, the first Wort boil high or quick; for the quicker
+the first Wort is boiled, the better it is.
+
+The second boil more than the first, and the third or last more than the
+second.
+
+In cooling lay your Worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and Care must
+be taken in letting them down into the Tun, that you do it leisurely, to
+the end that as little of the Feces or Sediment which causes the
+Fermentation to be fierce or mild, for Note, there is in all fermented
+Liquors, Salt and Sulphur, and to keep these two Bodies in a due
+Proportion, that the Salt does not exalt itself above the Sulphur,
+consists a great part of the Art in Brewing.
+
+When your Wort is first let into your Tun, put but a little Yeast to it,
+and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate,
+whip in the Yeast two or three times or more, till you find your Drink
+well fermented, for without a full opening of the Body by fermentation, it
+will not be perfect fine, nor will it drink clean and light.
+
+When you cleanse, do it by a Cock from your Tun, placed six Inches from
+the Bottom, to the end that most of the Sediment may be left behind, which
+may be thrown on your Malt to mend your Small Beer.
+
+When your Drink is Tunn'd, fill your Vessel full, let it work at the
+Bung-hole, and have a reserve in a small Cask to fill it up, and don't put
+any of the Drink which will be under the Yeast after it is work'd over
+into your Vessels, but put it by itself in another Cask, for it will not
+be so good as your other in the Cask.
+
+This done, you must wait for the finishing of the fermentation, then stop
+it close, and let it stand till the Spring, for Brewing ought to be done
+in the Month of _October_, that it may have time to settle and digest all
+the Winter Season.
+
+In the Spring you must unstop your Vent-hole and thereby see whether your
+Drink doth ferment or not, for as soon as the warm Weather comes, your
+Drink will have another fermentation, which when it is over, let it be
+again well stopped and stand till _September_ or longer, and then Peg it;
+and if you find it pretty fine, the Hop well rotted and of a good pleasant
+taste for drinking.
+
+Then and not before draw out a Gallon of it, put to it two Ounces of
+Ising-glass cut small and well beaten to melt, stirring it often and whip
+it with a Wisk till the Ising-glass be melted, then strain it and put it
+into your Vessel, stirring it well together, stop the Bung slightly, for
+this will cause a new and small fermentation, when that is over stop it
+close, leaving only a Vent-hole a little stopp'd, let it stand, and in ten
+Days or a little more, it will be transparently fine, and you may drink of
+it out of the Vessel till two parts in three be drawn, then Bottle the
+rest, which will in a little time come to drink very well. If your Drink
+in _September_ be well condition'd for taste, but not fine, and you desire
+to drink it presently, rack it before you put your Ising-glass to it, and
+then it will fine the better and drink the cleaner.
+
+To make Drink fine quickly, I have been told that by separating the Liquor
+from the Feces, when the Wort is let out of the Tun into the Underback,
+which may be done in this manner, when you let your Wort into your
+Underback out of your Tun, catch the Wort in some Tub so long, and so
+often as you find it run foul, put that so catched on the Malt again, and
+do so till the Wort run clear into the Underback. This is to me a very
+good way (where it may be done) for 'tis the Feces which causes the fierce
+and violent fermentation, and to hinder that in some measure is the way to
+have fine Drink: Note that the finer you make your Wort, the sooner your
+Drink will be fine, for I have heard that some Curious in Brewing have
+caused Flannels to be so placed, that all the Wort may run thro' one or
+more of them into the Tun before working, by which means the Drink was
+made very fine and well tasted.
+
+
+ _Observations on the foregoing Account_.
+
+
+This Excellent Philosophical Account of Brewing _October_ Beer, has
+hitherto remained in private Hands as a very great Secret, and was given
+to a Friend of mine by the Author himself, to whom the World is much
+obliged, altho' it comes by me; In justice therefore to this ingenious
+Person, I would here mention his Name, had I leave for so doing; but at
+present this Intimation must suffice. However, I shall here take notice,
+that his Caution against using tailed or dusty Malt, which is too commonly
+sold, is truly worthy of Observation; for these are so far from producing
+more Ale or Beer, that they absorb and drink part of it up.
+
+In Grinding Malts he notifies well to prevent a foul Drink.
+
+The quantity he allows is something above thirteen Bushels to the Hogshead
+which is very sufficient; but this as every body pleases.
+
+The Choice of Liquors or Waters for Brewing, he says, is of considerable
+advantage; and so must every body else that knows their Natures and loves
+Health, and pleasant Drink: For this purpose, in my Opinion, the Air and
+Soil is to be regarded where the Brewing is performed; since the Air
+affects all things it can come at, whether Animal, Vegetable or Mineral,
+as may be proved from many Instances: In the Marshes of _Kent_ and
+_Essex_, the Air there is generally so infectious by means of those low
+vaesy boggy Grounds, that seldom a Person escapes an Ague one time or
+other, whether Natives or Aliens, and is often fatally known to some of
+the _Londoners_ and others who merrily and nimbly travel down to the Isles
+of _Grain_ and _Sheppy_ for a valuable Harvest, but in a Month's time they
+generally return thro' the Village of _Soorne_ with another Mien. There is
+also a little _Moor_ in _Hertfordshire_, thro' which a Water runs that
+frequently gives the _Passant_ Horses that drink of it, the Colick or
+Gripes, by means of the aluminous sharp Particles of its Earth; Its Air is
+also so bad, as has obliged several to remove from its Situation for their
+Healths: The Dominion of the Air is likewise so powerful over Vegetables,
+that what will grow in one Place won't in another, as is plain from the
+Beech and Black Cherry Tree, that refuse the Vale of _Ailesbury_ tho' on
+some Hills there, yet will thrive in the _Chiltern_ or Hilly Country: So
+the Limes and other Trees about _London_ are all generally black-barked,
+while those in the Country are most of them of a Silver white. Water is
+also so far under the Influence of the Air and Soil, as makes many
+excellent for Brewing when others are as bad. In Rivers, that run thro'
+boggy Places, the Sullage or Washings of such Soils are generally
+unwholsome as the nature of such Ground is; and so the Water becomes
+infected by that and the Effluvia or Vapour that accompanies such Water:
+So Ponds are surely good or bad, as they are under too much Cover or
+supply'd by nasty Drains, or as they stand situated or exposed to good and
+bad Airs. Thus the Well-waters by consequence share in the good or bad
+Effects of such Soils that they run thorough, and the very Surface of the
+Earth by which such Waters are strained, is surely endowed with the
+quality of the Air in which it lies; which brings me to my intended
+purpose, to prove that Water drawn out of a Chalky, or Fire-stone Well,
+which is situated under a dry sweet loamy Soil, in a fine pure Air, and
+that is perfectly soft, must excel most if not all other Well-waters for
+the purpose in Brewing. The Worts also that are rooted in such an Air, in
+course partakes of its nitrous Benefits, as being much exposed thereto in
+the high Backs or Coolers that contain them. In my own Grounds I have
+Chalks under Clays and Loams; but as the latter is better than the former,
+so the Water proves more soft and wholsome under one than the other. Hence
+then may be observed the contrary Quality of those harsh curdling
+Well-waters that many drink of in their Malt Liquors, without considering
+their ill Effects, which are justly condemn'd by this able Author as unfit
+to be made use of in Brewing _October_ Beer.
+
+The boiling a few Hops in the first Water is good, but they must be
+strained thro' a Sieve before the Water is put into the Malt; and to check
+its Heat with cold Liquor, or to let it stand to cool some time, is a
+right Method, lest it scalds and locks up the Pores of the Malt, which
+would then yield a thick Wort to the end of the Brewing and never be good
+Drink.
+
+His putting Hops into the Underback, is an excellent Contrivance to
+prevent foxing, as I have already hinted.
+
+The quick boiling of the Wort is of no less Service, and that the smaller
+Wort should be boiled longer than the strong is good Judgment, because the
+stronger the Wort, the sooner the Spirits flie away and the waste of more
+Consequence; besides if the first Wort was to be boiled too long, it would
+obtain so thick a Body, as to prevent in great measure its fining
+hereafter after so soon in the Barrel; while the smaller sort will
+evaporate its more watry Parts, and thereby be brought into a thicker
+Confidence, which is perfectly necessary in thin Worts; and in this
+Article lies so much the Skill of the Brewer, that some will make a longer
+Length than ordinary from the Goods for Small Beer, to shorten it
+afterwards in the Copper by Length of boiling, and this way of consuming
+it is the more natural, because the remaining part will be better Cured.
+
+The laying Worts thin is a most necessary Precaution; for this is one way
+to prevent their running into Cohesions and Foxing, the want of which
+Knowledge and Care has undoubtedly been the occasion of great Losses in
+Brewing; for when Worts are tainted in any considerable degree, they will
+be ropy in time and unfit for the human Body, as being unwholsome as well
+as unpleasant. So likewise is his _Item_ of great Importance, when he
+advises to draw the Worts off fine out of the Backs or Coolers, and leave
+the Feces or Sediments behind, by reason, as he says, they are the cause
+of those two detested Qualities in Malt Liquors, staleness and foulness,
+two Properties that ought to imploy the greatest Care in Brewers to
+prevent; for 'tis certain these Sediments are a Composition of the very
+worst part of the Malt, Hops and Yeast, and, while they are in the Barrel,
+will so tincture and impregnate the Drink with their insanous and
+unpleasant nature, that its Drinkers will be sure to participate thereof
+more or less as they have lain together a longer or a shorter time. To
+have then a Malt Drink balsamick and mild, the Worts cannot be run off too
+fine from the Coolers, nor well fermented too slow, that there may be a
+Medium kept, in both the Salt and Sulphur that all fermented Malt Drinks
+abound with, and herein, as he says, lies a great part of the Art of
+Brewing.
+
+He says truly well, that a little Yeast at first should be put to the
+Wort, that it may quietly work by degrees, and not be violently forc'd
+into a high Fermentation; for then by course the Salt and Sulphur will be
+too violently agitated into such an Excess and Disagreement of Parts, that
+will break their Unity into irregular Commotions, and cause the Drink to
+be soon stale and harsh. But if it should be too backward and work too
+moderate, then whipping the Yeast two or three times into it will be of
+some service to open the Body of the Beer, for as he observes, if Drink
+has not a due fermentation, it will not be fine, clean, nor light.
+
+His advice to draw the Drink out of the Tun by a Cock at such a distance
+from the bottom is right; because that room will best keep the Feces from
+being disturb'd as the Drink is drawing off, and leaving them behind; but
+for putting them afterwards over the Malt for Small Beer, I don't hold it
+consonant with good Brewing, by reason in this Sediment there are many
+Particles of the Yeast, that consequently will cause a small Fermentation
+in the Liquor and Malt, and be a means to spoil rather than make good
+Small Beer.
+
+What he says of filling up the Cask with a reserve of the same Drink, and
+not with that which has once worked out, is past dispute just and right.
+
+And so is what he says of stopping up the Vessel close after the
+Fermentation is over; but that it is best to Brew all strong Beer in
+_October_, I must here take leave to dissent from the Tenet, because there
+is room for several Objections in relation to the sort of Malt and Cellar,
+which as I have before explained, shall say the less here.
+
+As he observes Care should be taken in the Spring to unstop the Vent, lest
+the warm Weather cause such a Fermentation as may burst the Cask, and also
+in _September_, that it be first try'd by Pegging if the Drink is fine,
+well tasted and the Hop rotted; and then if his Way is liked best, bring
+the rest into a transparent Fineness; for Clearness in Malt Liquors, as I
+said before, and here repeat it again, is a most agreeable Quality that
+every Man ought to enjoy for his Health and Pleasure, and therefore he
+advises for dispatch in this Affair, and to have the Drink very fine, to
+rack it off before the Ising-glass is put in; but I can't be a Votary for
+this Practice, as believing the Drink must lose a great deal of its
+Spirits by such shifting; yet I must chime in with his Notion of putting
+the Wort so often over the Malt till it comes off fine as I have already
+taught, which is a Method that has been used many Years in the North of
+_England_, where they are so curious as to let the Wort lie some time in
+the Underback to draw it off from the Feces there; nor are they less
+careful to run it fine out of the Cooler into the Tun, and from that into
+the Cask; in all which three several Places the Wort and Drink may be had
+clear and fine, and then there will be no more Sediments than is just
+necessary to assist and seed the Beer, and preserving its Spirits in a due
+Temper. But if Persons have Time and Conveniency, and their Inclination
+leads them to, obtain their Drink in the utmost Fineness, it is an
+extraordinary good way to use _Hippocrates_ Sleeve or Flannel Bag, which I
+did in my great Brew-house at _London_ for straining off the Feces that
+were left in the Backs. As to the Quantity of Malt for Brewing a Hogshead
+of _October_ Beer, I am of Opinion thirteen Bushels are right, and so are
+ten, fifteen and twenty, according as People approve of; for near
+_Litchfield_, I know some have brewed a Hogshead of _October_ Beer from
+sixteen Bushels of Barley Malt, one of Wheat, one of Beans, one of Pease
+and one of Oat Malt, besides hanging a Bag of Flower taken out of the last
+four Malts in the Hogshead for the Drink to feed on, nor can a certain
+Time Be limited and adjusted for the Tapping of any Drink (notwithstanding
+what has been affirmed to the contrary) because some Hops will not be
+rotted so soon as others, and some Drinks will not fine so soon as others;
+as is evident in the Pale Malt Drinks, that will seldom or never break so
+soon in the Copper as the Brown sort, nor will they be so soon ripe and
+fit to Tap as the high dryed Malt Drink will. Therefore what this
+Gentleman says of trying Drink by first Pegging it before it is Tapp'd, in
+my Opinion is more just and right than relying on a limited time for
+Broaching such Beer.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+
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+
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+ PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" >
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+ <head>
+ <title>
+ The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+ </title>
+ <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
+ body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+ P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+ H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+ hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+ .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+ blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+ .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+ .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+ .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;}
+ div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+ div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+ .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+ .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+ .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal;
+ margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+ text-align: right;}
+ pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
+</style>
+ </head>
+ <body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The London and Country Brewer
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8900]
+[This file was first posted on August 22, 2003]
+Last updated: April 30, 2013
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER ***
+
+
+
+
+Text file produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+HTML file produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+ <div style="height: 8em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h1>
+ THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER
+ </h1>
+ <h2>
+ By Anonymous
+ </h2>
+ <h3>
+ 1736
+ </h3>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <b>Containing an Account,</b>
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I. Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures
+ for the Improvement thereof.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ II. Of making good Malts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ III. To know good from bad Malts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ IV. Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ V. Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ VI. Of Grinding Malts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ VII. Of Brewing in general.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ VIII. Of the <i>London</i> Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and
+ Brown Ales.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ IX. Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ X. Of the Nature and Use of the Hop.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XI. Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little
+ Room, and with a few Tubs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XII. Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XIII. Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome
+ Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XIV. Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and
+ relishing Malt Liquors.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XV. Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease
+ their Strength.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XVI. Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XVII. Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XIX. Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XX. Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of Buying
+ Malt Liquors.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To which is added,
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ XXI. A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong <i>October</i> Beer. By an
+ Ingenious Hand.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br />
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at <i>London</i>, but
+ for twenty Years past has resided in the Country.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /> <br />
+ </p>
+ <h4>
+ The SECOND EDITION, Corrected. <br /> <br /> LONDON <br /> <br /> Printed for
+ Messeurs Fox, at the <i>Half-Moon and Seven Stars</i>, in <i>Westminster-Hall</i>.
+ M.DCC.XXXVI. <br /> <br /> {Price Two Shillings.}
+ </h4>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <b>CONTENTS</b>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> THE PREFACE. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> CHAP. I. <i>Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn,
+ and of the proper Soils and Manures for the Improvement thereof</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> CHAP. II. <i>Of making</i> Malts. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> CHAP. III. <i>To know good from bad</i> Malts.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> CHAP. IV. <i>Of the Nature and Use of Pale,
+ Amber and Brown</i> Malts. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> CHAP. V. <i>Of the Nature of several Waters and
+ their use in Brewing. And first of Well-waters</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> CHAP. VI. <i>Of Grinding</i> Malts. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> CHAP. VII. <i>Of Brewing in general</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> CHAP. VIII. <i>The</i> London <i>Method of
+ Brewing</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> CHAP. IX. <i>The Country or private way of
+ Brewing</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> CHAP. X. <i>The Nature and Use of the Hop</i>.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> CHAP. XI. <i>Of Boiling Malt Liquors</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> CHAP. XII. <i>Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> CHAP. XIII. <i>Of fermenting and working of
+ Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice of Beating in the Yeast
+ detected</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> CHAP. XIV. <i>Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or
+ Stale Beer to feed on</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> CHAP. XV. <i>Of several pernicious Ingredients
+ put into Malt Liquors to encrease their Strength</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> CHAP. XVI. <i>Of the Cellar or Repository for
+ keeping Beers and Ales</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> CHAP. XVII. <i>Of Cleaning and Sweetening of
+ Casks</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> CHAP. XVIII. <i>Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of
+ Malt Liquors to some distance</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> CHAP. XIX. <i>Of the Strength and Age of Malt
+ Liquors</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> CHAP. XX. <i>Of the Pleasure and Profit of
+ Private Brewing, and the Charge of buying Malt Liquors</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p class="toc">
+ <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> CHAP. XXI. <i>A Philosophical Account for
+ Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer. By an Ingenious Hand</i>. </a>
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ THE PREFACE.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have
+ for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant
+ Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing
+ injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great
+ Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy
+ Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing,
+ Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body and
+ Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing Malt
+ Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a
+ considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food;
+ so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of
+ the Body.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our
+ Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either
+ to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or
+ take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill
+ Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several
+ Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and
+ preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt
+ itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I
+ thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome
+ Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled
+ People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's
+ Health.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard
+ both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly
+ ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been
+ partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time
+ very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the
+ Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in
+ making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a
+ matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled
+ too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this
+ Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one
+ ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode
+ the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties
+ that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink;
+ for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding
+ Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort
+ by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second
+ Book made appear. </i>
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite
+ in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high
+ Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and
+ therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have
+ been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities
+ of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an
+ Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error
+ of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot
+ Water on the Malt.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and
+ Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in
+ some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt
+ Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without
+ the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the
+ ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here
+ exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily
+ prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered,
+ I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge
+ of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in
+ Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great
+ Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our
+ Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will
+ come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own
+ Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but
+ enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly
+ pleasant, fine, strong and healthful.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being
+ neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that
+ their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not
+ write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by
+ Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of
+ the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here
+ plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost
+ finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth
+ how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that
+ will be of considerable Service to the World.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ {Illustration}
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. I. <i>Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and
+ Manures for the Improvement thereof</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that
+ produce those fine <i>British</i> Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other
+ Nation can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the
+ several Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also
+ attended with a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their
+ several particulars, and first of Soils.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and
+ thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising
+ therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both
+ ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat
+ like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of
+ contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much
+ better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are
+ better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish
+ Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower, which
+ occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at <i>Dunstable</i>, <i>Tring</i>
+ and <i>Dagnal</i> from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly
+ Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference
+ in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as
+ appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas
+ in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &amp;c. For our Mother Earth,
+ as it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables,
+ is composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein.
+ And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege
+ for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his
+ advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several
+ natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural
+ Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is
+ obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy
+ Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and
+ nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under
+ the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &amp;c.
+ are sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads,
+ Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come
+ off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of <i>London</i>
+ and other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as
+ those produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some
+ of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the
+ same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous
+ qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its
+ best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great
+ quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they
+ become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so
+ affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making
+ such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open
+ Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year
+ called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick
+ and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part
+ of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose
+ parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making
+ a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and
+ afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables
+ that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things
+ that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from
+ the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in
+ Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the
+ Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables,
+ and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the
+ Creation supplies.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor
+ lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts
+ that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt
+ of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof
+ both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes
+ very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry
+ Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the
+ Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much
+ encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are
+ often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or
+ less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in
+ which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves
+ its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that
+ are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the
+ nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but
+ when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come
+ into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books,
+ entituled, <i>Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained</i>, and, <i>The
+ Practical Farmer</i>; both writ by <i>William Ellis</i> of <i>Little
+ Gaddesden</i> near <i>Hempstead</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>, not only for
+ Barley, but other Grains.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure;
+ and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged
+ or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by
+ its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if
+ it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will
+ be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt,
+ because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that
+ which was inned dry.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest,
+ another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at
+ once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and
+ the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest,
+ the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of
+ it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these
+ irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the
+ ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into
+ the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews,
+ makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the
+ assistance of such steeping.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and
+ small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis
+ therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but
+ take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this
+ makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the
+ Vale of <i>Ailsbury</i>, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams,
+ to sow in Chalks, Gravels, &amp;c. Others every second Year will go from
+ hence to <i>Fullham</i> and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows
+ there on Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this
+ Corn, and whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and
+ white Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty
+ Sorts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. II. <i>Of making</i> Malts.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to
+ treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden
+ or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered
+ with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell;
+ here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve
+ Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for
+ that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains,
+ requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on
+ Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly,
+ when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it
+ is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush
+ it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a
+ little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is
+ a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt
+ will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause
+ deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of
+ the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then
+ the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and
+ better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in
+ temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put
+ into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the
+ Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the
+ Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one
+ or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or
+ eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always
+ keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd;
+ and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four
+ or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air,
+ which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so
+ must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye
+ and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick,
+ ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire;
+ but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be
+ turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is
+ warm, as in <i>March, April</i> or <i>May</i>; and when it is fixed and
+ the Root begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully
+ kept often turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive,
+ and this is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's
+ Art and Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and
+ turning the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is,
+ that the Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if
+ it does, the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left
+ behind but the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree
+ and fit for the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let
+ it lye twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will
+ much improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time
+ it must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is
+ overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause
+ the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be
+ put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature
+ of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than
+ the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a
+ sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is
+ often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry
+ about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should
+ be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The
+ time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according
+ to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often
+ sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in
+ the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and
+ where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed,
+ it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap,
+ but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put
+ it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron
+ Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The
+ Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled
+ one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel,
+ for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and
+ jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or
+ scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the
+ body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over
+ it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used
+ quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and
+ perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled:
+ Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by
+ burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as
+ formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to
+ scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the
+ Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only
+ turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for
+ drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more
+ leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the
+ Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal,
+ Straw, Wood and Fern, &amp;c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed
+ all others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because
+ it sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that
+ Wood, Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but
+ there is a difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being
+ large Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the
+ Sulphur is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this
+ when it is truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but
+ one Cinder as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of
+ this one is capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often
+ by the negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by
+ some wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from <i>Swanzey</i>
+ in <i>Pembrokeshire</i>, being of a hard stony substance in small bits
+ resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its
+ sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward
+ parts of the grainy body: In <i>Devonshire</i> I have seen their Marble or
+ grey Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme
+ makes, and both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet
+ moderate and certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five
+ Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will
+ Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt,
+ as the Pea will.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts
+ in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done
+ him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason
+ others won't like such a mixture.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to
+ come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is
+ thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but
+ will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once
+ done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it
+ was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a
+ little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not
+ thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt,
+ when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the
+ Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was
+ the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid
+ beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from
+ Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick
+ crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such
+ unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of
+ until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the
+ Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good
+ Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to
+ happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and
+ Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the
+ Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on
+ the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its
+ Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having
+ its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts
+ contribute to as well as the Hop.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by
+ Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so
+ mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its
+ black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be
+ entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and
+ makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a
+ small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer
+ despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible,
+ because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it,
+ by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made
+ with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of
+ Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale
+ of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers
+ in the Body.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in
+ the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the
+ Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a
+ strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where
+ there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its
+ inebriating quality.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen,
+ Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here
+ a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak,
+ soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a
+ strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more
+ practised then ever.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. III. <i>To know good from bad</i> Malts.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and
+ private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the
+ Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be
+ Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived
+ towards <i>Ware</i>, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two
+ hundred Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without
+ which 'tis impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I
+ know but of few Ways, <i>First</i>, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn
+ across between the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it
+ tasteth mellow and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower
+ all its length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; <i>Secondly</i>,
+ By Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it
+ swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true
+ Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own
+ this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd,
+ split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an
+ allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a
+ judgment. <i>Thirdly</i>, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and
+ steely, but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board,
+ will mark and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. <i>Fourthly</i>, Malt
+ that is not rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and
+ weigh heavier than that which is true Malt.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. IV. <i>Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown</i> Malts.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has
+ had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due
+ care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full
+ quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown
+ high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings <i>per</i>
+ Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious sort to
+ the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and nearest
+ to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and Balsamick
+ quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of this Malt
+ bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of the great
+ Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and binding
+ Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt, either in
+ Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters in brewing
+ of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that which is
+ dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is very much
+ in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant, its taste
+ agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd by many as
+ the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or soft waters,
+ or a mixture of both.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so
+ hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often
+ so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its
+ essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant
+ Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he
+ does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion
+ the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and
+ is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts,
+ being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the
+ Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made
+ from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this
+ reason the <i>London</i> Brewers mostly use the <i>Thames</i> or <i>New
+ River</i> waters to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature,
+ whereby it agrees with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the
+ well or other hard Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and
+ a But-beer that will keep very well five or six Months, but after that
+ time it generally grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve
+ Bushels allowed to the Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright
+ pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak
+ to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish,
+ that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or
+ Fern, &amp;c. The Coak or <i>Welch</i> Coal also makes more true and
+ compleat Malt, as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its
+ fire gives both a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all
+ their Parts gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained
+ such a Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts
+ of the Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make
+ such fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my
+ Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty
+ Miles from <i>London</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best
+ tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat,
+ Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of
+ the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more
+ uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a
+ moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the
+ taste of the smoak.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &amp;c. the Straw-dryed
+ is not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few
+ can bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its
+ strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of <i>England</i>,
+ and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used in <i>London</i>
+ for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it sold for two
+ Shillings <i>per</i> Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt, nor was
+ this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its Brewers,
+ for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the Age of the
+ Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were used in its
+ Preservation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from
+ the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed,
+ as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our
+ Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ At <i>Bridport</i> in <i>Dorsetshire</i>, I knew an Inn-keeper use half
+ Pale and half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my
+ Palate the best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted
+ for, in that the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed,
+ must produce a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will
+ reduce those extreams to a proper Quality.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. V. <i>Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And
+ first of Well-waters</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a
+ Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and
+ is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of
+ the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious
+ and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies,
+ and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer
+ every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those
+ Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr<i>.Mead</i> observes, some waters are so
+ loaded with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are
+ carried, in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that
+ petrifying nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the
+ <i>Parisians</i> have been instances of, by using this sort of water out
+ of the River <i>Seine</i>. And of this Nature is another at <i>Rowel</i>
+ in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, which in no great distance of time so clogs
+ the Wheel of an overshot Mill there, that they are forced with, convenient
+ Instruments to cut way for its Motion; and what makes it still more
+ evident, is the sight of those incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that
+ the hard Well-waters are the occasion of, by being often boiled in them:
+ And it is further related by the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted
+ with frequent returns of violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of
+ <i>Van Helmont</i>, only by leaving off drinking Beer brewed with
+ Well-water; It's true, such a fluid has a greater force and aptness to
+ extract the tincture out of Malt, than is to be had in the more innocent
+ and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this very reason it ought not, unless
+ upon meer necessity, to be made use of; this Quality being owing to the
+ mineral Particles and alluminous Salts with which it is impregnated. For
+ these waters thus saturated, will by their various gravities in
+ circulation, deposit themselves in one part of the animal Body or other,
+ which has made some prove the goodness of Water by the lightness of its
+ body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of the <i>London</i> Shops,
+ in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky, Hypochondriack, and other ill
+ Effects of the Clayey and other gross Particles of stagnating Well-waters,
+ and the calculous Concretions of others; and therefore such waters ought
+ to be mistrusted more than any, where they are not pure clear and soft or
+ that don't arise from good Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally
+ allowed to afford the best of all the Well sorts.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro'
+ which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At <i>Uppingham</i>
+ in <i>Rutland</i>, their water is said to come off an Allum-rock, and so
+ tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is easily tasted at the
+ first Draught. And at <i>Dean</i> in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, I have seen
+ the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of a
+ Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water
+ that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally
+ accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in
+ that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but
+ undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may
+ accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in,
+ great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at <i>Ailsbury</i> to soften
+ their water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp
+ that it will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its
+ Original State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the
+ Alcalous soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying,
+ saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring
+ sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the
+ Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's
+ heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict,
+ that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of
+ them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to
+ avoid two that run cross a Road in <i>Bucks</i> and <i>Hertfordshire</i>:
+ But in their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy
+ mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new
+ fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the <i>Thames</i>
+ water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the
+ hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall
+ hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time,
+ when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a
+ Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of
+ Cattle, &amp;c. and in good Air, as that of <i>Barkhamstead St. Peters</i>
+ in <i>Hertfordshire</i> is; it may then justly claim the name of a most
+ excellent water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same
+ quantity of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the <i>Thames</i>
+ has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as
+ Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable
+ degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn
+ fine in a few Days after Tunning.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best
+ Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of
+ Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very
+ agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but
+ for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well,
+ as being apt to putrify the soonest of any.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are
+ good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the
+ water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an
+ open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it
+ then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that
+ of <i>Blew-pot</i> Pond on the high Green at <i>Gaddesden</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>
+ and many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of
+ the soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or
+ full of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as
+ to force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of
+ all others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are
+ so low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to
+ take out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant
+ waters are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so
+ far scrutinized into the prime Cause of our <i>British</i> malady the
+ Scurvy, as to affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating
+ waters, and especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are
+ about <i>Londonderry</i> and <i>Amsterdam</i>, for that where the waters
+ are worst, there this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings
+ they have put it out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms
+ that are rank'd under this general Name, if they don't take their
+ beginning from such water, do own it to be their chief Cause.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. VI. <i>Of Grinding</i> Malts.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily
+ deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the
+ good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the
+ Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will
+ cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just
+ broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate
+ its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then
+ an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same
+ Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are
+ likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they
+ use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air,
+ that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its
+ harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt
+ acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may
+ be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition,
+ and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more
+ freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than
+ if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better
+ tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the
+ leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they
+ are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them
+ what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt
+ so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the
+ great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but
+ now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by
+ the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge
+ of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do
+ before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of
+ the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the
+ Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at <i>London</i>
+ I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that with one
+ Horse would grind {blank space} quarters an Hour, But in the Country I use
+ a steel Hand-mill, that Cost at first forty Shillings; which will by the
+ help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an Hour, and will last
+ a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There are some
+ old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries for and
+ prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the Corn's
+ body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the Malt so
+ broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and regular Power
+ to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more confin'd within
+ its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in Use for their
+ great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is frequently done by
+ some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor as soon as it is
+ ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a Day or two, that
+ the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it received from the
+ Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. VII. <i>Of Brewing in general</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated
+ Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been
+ concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the
+ Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it
+ no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little;
+ from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and
+ Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed
+ unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided
+ thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some
+ degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician
+ enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones,
+ Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we
+ consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted
+ Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again
+ with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be
+ very pernicious to the <i>British</i> human Body especially, which
+ certainly suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of
+ Flesh that we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and
+ therefore are more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick
+ mucilaginous Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one
+ makes a lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or
+ less thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's
+ fine. The late Curious <i>Simon Harcourt</i> Esq; of <i>Penly</i>, whom I
+ have had the honour to drink some of his famous <i>October</i> with,
+ thought the true Art of Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to
+ Cost him near twenty Pounds to have an old Days-man taught it by a <i>Welch</i>
+ Brewer, and sure it was this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts
+ afterwards in the Brewing of that which he called his <i>October</i> Beer.
+ So likewise in <i>London</i> they lay such stress on this Art, that many
+ have thought it worth their while to give one or two hundred Guineas with
+ an Apprentice: This Consideration also made an Ambassador give an
+ extraordinary Encouragement to one of my Acquaintance to go over with him,
+ that was a great Master of this Science. But notwithstanding all that can
+ be said that relates to this Subject, there are so many Incidents
+ attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled several expert Men to account
+ for their difference, though brewed by the same Brewer, with the same
+ Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and Town, and tapp'd at the
+ same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and well Tasted, while the
+ others have not had any worth drinking, now this may be owing to the
+ different Weather in the same Month, that might cause an Alteration in the
+ working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be so convenient, or
+ that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &amp;c. But it has
+ been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer constantly,
+ and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in dry Vaults or
+ Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been generally good.
+ And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time is required to
+ ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in Hogsheads, because the
+ greater quantity must have the longer time; so also a greater quantity
+ will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on this account the
+ Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all others; but all
+ under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep their Bodies.
+ The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as being generally
+ set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast, that greatly
+ contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits of a most
+ convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by its broad
+ level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and preserving
+ Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the long
+ Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this time
+ in greater Reputation than ever in <i>London</i>, and the Home-brew'd
+ Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in
+ its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded
+ with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short
+ Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter
+ Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the
+ Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and
+ staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not
+ admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that
+ the handful of Salt which the <i>Plymouth</i> Brewers put into their
+ Hogshead, hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice
+ of.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. VIII. <i>The</i> London <i>Method of Brewing</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a
+ considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common
+ Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well
+ Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and
+ Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice
+ there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Stout Butt Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often
+ sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the
+ wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the <i>London</i>
+ Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first
+ Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd
+ over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very
+ hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be
+ in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the
+ Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted,
+ look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the
+ Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the
+ Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel
+ of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any;
+ immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the
+ Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this
+ they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square
+ Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom
+ into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an
+ Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there
+ is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash
+ Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash
+ again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an
+ Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a
+ half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd
+ with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite
+ Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made
+ after the Stout.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Brewing strong brown Ale called</i> Stitch.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer
+ Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and
+ is sold for Eight-pence <i>per</i> Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun,
+ and is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular
+ Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by {Blank space} <i>Medlicot</i>
+ Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him
+ very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a
+ greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the
+ fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the
+ Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same
+ Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only
+ boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer
+ than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is
+ often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is
+ wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much
+ fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or
+ Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown
+ Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the
+ rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so
+ also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more
+ Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing
+ pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second
+ Book of Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it,
+ and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into
+ the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar,
+ and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost
+ scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the
+ Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the
+ Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first
+ wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be
+ Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way
+ in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because
+ it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way
+ for the hotter Liquor that is to follow.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from
+ Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common
+ Brewhouse</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and
+ sold for thirty Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or
+ strong brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and
+ Fourpence <i>per</i> Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel
+ and a half or more, at sixteen Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel, that holds
+ thirty two Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six
+ Barrels off a Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings <i>per</i> Barrel from
+ the Tun. For Pale and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling
+ <i>per</i> Gallon from the Tun.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. IX. <i>The Country or private way of Brewing</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised
+ in <i>Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle</i>, and many other Places;
+ but evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most
+ serviceable both in Country and <i>London</i> private Families. And first,
+ I shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more
+ than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the
+ former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more
+ Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person
+ can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its
+ united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less
+ charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the
+ private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt
+ ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better
+ clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast
+ and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so
+ well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too
+ forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do;
+ he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some
+ measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a
+ private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full
+ thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran
+ or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in
+ the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the
+ water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else
+ lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the
+ steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in
+ about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel
+ of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an
+ Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just
+ mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the
+ old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that
+ Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence
+ or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will
+ easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the
+ after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run
+ thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the
+ water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the
+ Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or
+ small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to slow
+ that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which will
+ occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially if the
+ <i>Dundle</i> way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small as a
+ Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the Barrel:
+ Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then the
+ second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and drawn out
+ with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the Malt is done,
+ then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt to the four
+ Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be spread all over
+ it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or other Cloths to
+ keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it stand two or three
+ Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a Bowl of the boiling
+ water in the Copper as is before directed, and so continue to do till as
+ much is run off as will almost fill the Copper; then in a Canvas or other
+ loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops and boil them half an Hour,
+ when they must be taken out, and as many fresh ones put in their room as
+ is judged proper to boil half an Hour more, if for Ale: But if for keeping
+ Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones should be put in at every half Hour's
+ end, and Boil an Hour and a half briskly: Now while the first Copper of
+ wort is Boiling, there should be scalding water leisurely put over the
+ Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off, that the Copper may be filled again
+ immediately after the first is out, and boiled an Hour with near the same
+ quantity of fresh Hops, and in the same manner as those in the first
+ Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for small Beer may be all cold water put
+ over the Grains at once, or at twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with
+ the Hops that has been boil'd before. But here I must observe, that
+ sometimes I have not an opportunity to get hot water for making all my
+ second Copper of wort, which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply
+ what was wanting. Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead
+ of Ale with the two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer
+ with the other two, but this more or less according to please me, always
+ taking Care to let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and
+ cool in four or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many
+ Hogsheads of midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong
+ enough for myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping
+ Beer, the first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the
+ rest small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of
+ for strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according
+ to the <i>London</i> Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with
+ the Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper
+ of good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they
+ take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome
+ the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt
+ or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing
+ done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most necessary
+ in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or more Brands
+ ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a burnt Toast of
+ Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that this must not be
+ done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood; lest it does more
+ harm than good.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another Way</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the
+ former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in
+ it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be
+ ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt:
+ This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring
+ of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or <i>October</i>
+ Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was for Ale, or
+ Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the Copper by
+ remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and kept a Week
+ or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to it, and may be
+ brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this as well as in
+ the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of wort into the
+ Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes absolutely fine and
+ clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good: Others will reserve
+ this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it there a Week in Winter,
+ or two or three Days in Summer, according to Conveniency, by putting fresh
+ water every Day to it, and use it instead of water for the first Mash,
+ alledging it is better so than boiled, because by that it is thickened and
+ will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a Benefit to a Victualler
+ that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small Beer; because for such
+ small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there is no Excise to be
+ pay'd.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it
+ from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other
+ Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further
+ enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or
+ Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and
+ wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but
+ Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are
+ there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no
+ small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their
+ Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this,
+ and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this <i>Item</i>
+ and prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before
+ any other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile
+ small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear,
+ put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then
+ throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it
+ stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot
+ and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency
+ allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold
+ instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by
+ putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of
+ Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted
+ twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit.
+ Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a
+ Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle
+ gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had
+ more leisure to brew better.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>A particular way of Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly
+ after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all
+ his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let
+ the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the
+ former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put
+ again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this
+ for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and
+ put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for
+ his <i>October</i> Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods
+ at once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an
+ Hour undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot
+ water put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was
+ observed that his <i>October</i> Beer was the most famous in the Country,
+ but his Grains good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out
+ all or most of their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and
+ once his Beer did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost,
+ yet when the weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards
+ proved very good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in
+ the Vat, and was never tapp'd under three Years.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the
+ Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the
+ same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an
+ opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more
+ than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his <i>October</i>
+ or <i>March</i> Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of <i>Penly October</i>
+ Beer is at this time well known not only throughout <i>Hertfordshire</i>,
+ but several other remote Places, and truly not without desert, for in all
+ my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a clear amber
+ Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what excell'd all
+ was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his Viands and
+ this <i>October</i> Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I remember his
+ usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my <i>October</i>,
+ and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not only the
+ rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even in
+ advance, whenever they had Business at <i>Penly</i>, as expecting a
+ refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a
+ good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater
+ Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the
+ Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Of Brewing Molosses Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in
+ the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer
+ when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of
+ fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse,
+ and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings <i>per</i> Quarter, and like
+ to be so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable
+ excellent Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book
+ intituled, <i>Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained</i>: There is no great
+ danger of that, Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very
+ unwholsome, because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of
+ Treacle into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as
+ very probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker:
+ Tho' in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have
+ known some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does
+ not breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep
+ open the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose
+ they put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first
+ mixing it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops
+ or more one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or</i> October <i>Beer
+ from</i> Nottingham.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for
+ four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he
+ puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam
+ is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot
+ water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will
+ bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run
+ leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as
+ can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling;
+ when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in
+ the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the
+ next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or
+ Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or
+ Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be
+ returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless
+ the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it
+ will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen
+ Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over
+ he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is
+ running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock
+ spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty
+ one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub,
+ wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the
+ second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper
+ boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former
+ was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out
+ into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first
+ wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden
+ Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to
+ preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then
+ upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas
+ or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the
+ Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away
+ very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues
+ boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged,
+ and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very
+ thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and
+ boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity
+ of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will
+ be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with
+ some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as
+ the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four
+ Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if
+ necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will
+ make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding
+ of Hogs.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Observations on the foregoing Method</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet
+ three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is
+ expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of
+ water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt
+ is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way
+ made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides
+ the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream
+ than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that
+ discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual
+ running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of
+ sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook
+ is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the
+ very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort
+ from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his
+ first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and
+ when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick
+ to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled
+ or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the
+ Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the
+ Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of
+ putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect
+ Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is
+ thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so
+ agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping <i>October</i>
+ Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter
+ is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer
+ is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of
+ Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more
+ strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some
+ Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a
+ standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break
+ or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an
+ Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and
+ Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that
+ boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the
+ thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first
+ away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye
+ in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole
+ cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the
+ wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity
+ may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in
+ the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss
+ than Profit.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop
+ in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great
+ damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the
+ spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. X. <i>The Nature and Use of the Hop</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on
+ the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient,
+ and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that
+ falacious Notion is obviated by Dr<i>.Quincy</i> and others, who have
+ proved that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that
+ mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a
+ dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been
+ infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old
+ ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on
+ as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature,
+ composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and
+ with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the
+ Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure
+ Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both
+ ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great
+ Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak
+ Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two
+ Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three
+ for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of
+ Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And
+ according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of
+ the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour,
+ then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of
+ fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an
+ opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself
+ the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the
+ Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the
+ same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but
+ observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the
+ Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's
+ true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater
+ quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the
+ desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time
+ will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider
+ their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in
+ their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be
+ much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as
+ well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to
+ give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that
+ many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt
+ Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not
+ lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little
+ Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they
+ acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have
+ been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as
+ they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my
+ Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it
+ would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be
+ in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling
+ Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most
+ general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in
+ its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have
+ thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same
+ time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve
+ to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been
+ sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it
+ is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they
+ buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others <i>Daucus</i> or wild
+ Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor
+ People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their
+ wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb <i>Horehound</i>, which indeed
+ is a fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite,
+ as I have already done of a <i>London</i> one, and that is, of an Arch
+ Fellow that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to
+ save all the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean,
+ then would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of
+ <i>Horehound</i> on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and
+ bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them
+ for new Hops.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose
+ Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the
+ Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body;
+ they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy,
+ valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but in
+ raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper, and
+ afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before hinted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is
+ greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany
+ both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to
+ tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding
+ the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be
+ so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes
+ our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are
+ made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be
+ planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their
+ Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops
+ that were then two Shillings <i>per</i> Pound, use but a quartern instead
+ of a Pound, the rest he supplied with <i>Daucus</i> Seeds; but to be more
+ particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several
+ Impositions. <i>First</i>, He underboil'd his Wort to save its
+ Consumption: <i>Secondly</i>, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and
+ <i>Thirdly</i>, He beat the Yeast in for some time to encrease the
+ strength of the Drink; and all these in such a <i>Legerdemain</i> manner
+ as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant Drinker to such a degree as not to
+ suspect the Fraud, and that for these three Reasons: <i>First</i>, The
+ underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste than ordinary, was esteemed
+ the Produce of a great allowance of Malt. <i>Secondly</i>, The <i>Daucus</i>
+ Seed encreased their approbation by the fine Peach flavour or relish that
+ it gives the Drink; and <i>Thirdly</i>, The Yeast was not so much as
+ thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor. These artificial
+ Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so prevalent with the
+ Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known this Victualler
+ have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had much more
+ wholsome at the same time; for the <i>Daucus</i> Seed tho' it is a
+ Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort
+ it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the
+ clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a
+ Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing
+ Obstructions of the <i>Viscera</i>, and particularly of the Liver and
+ Kidneys, as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops
+ are a Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XI. <i>Of Boiling Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling <i>October</i>
+ Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that
+ an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some
+ Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all
+ sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be
+ curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but
+ afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean
+ and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard
+ not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this
+ will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its
+ being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has
+ the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays,
+ then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because
+ it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in
+ the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it
+ should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less
+ than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the
+ Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if
+ too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be
+ unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest
+ our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other
+ misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to
+ staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full
+ time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then
+ thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the
+ Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be
+ right clear in the Barrel; an <i>Item</i> sufficient to shew the mistake
+ of all those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or
+ three Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than
+ good to the Drink.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I
+ have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good,
+ because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways
+ detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of
+ the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it
+ running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are
+ not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great
+ measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the
+ Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and
+ comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which
+ consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and
+ secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured
+ before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread,
+ that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in
+ those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole
+ Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling
+ of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an
+ eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the
+ nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the
+ genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save
+ the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great
+ Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford
+ such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded
+ People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an <i>Ignis fatuus</i>, or
+ what is not.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To come then to the <i>Crisis</i> of the Matter, both Time and the
+ Curdling or Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was
+ to boil the Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it
+ was rightly broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not
+ be fine nor wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two
+ Hours, without regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it
+ may be too thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to
+ obtain it its due order; therefore in <i>October</i> and keeping Beers, an
+ Hour and a quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a
+ thorough cured Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil
+ enough, and because in this there is a double Security by length of
+ boiling, and a quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only
+ a single one, and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops
+ boiled only half an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is
+ assigned, that the Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities,
+ will by them and their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling
+ the Wort; and that a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only
+ the fine wholsome strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink,
+ exclusive of the phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted
+ if the Hops were to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are
+ many now, that are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew
+ Ale or <i>October</i> Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet,
+ that if Hops are boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or
+ more of their worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer,
+ cannot be exactly adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the
+ Proportion should be according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the
+ Season of the Year it is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be
+ kept.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an
+ Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd
+ in three Weeks or a Month.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a
+ quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months,
+ there should be more Hops allowed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For <i>October</i> or <i>March</i> brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven
+ Bushels of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months,
+ three Pounds and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ For <i>October</i> or <i>March</i>, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels,
+ boiled an Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to
+ be allowed to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted
+ in two Bags, and less time given the Wort to boil.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly
+ improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in
+ Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so;
+ but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an
+ Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well
+ relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly
+ wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly
+ publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just
+ enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XII. <i>Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by
+ divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too
+ thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one
+ after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors
+ taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great
+ Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his
+ Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to
+ him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all
+ Servants that Name the word <i>Fox</i> or <i>Foxing</i>, in the Brewhouse
+ to pay Sixpence, which obliges them to call it <i>Reynards</i>; for when
+ once the Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like
+ a <i>Fox</i>; It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and
+ Ale so Tainted to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is
+ receive'd in a great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short
+ time turn Sour. This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers,
+ that they have asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his
+ Master's Interest tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the
+ Malt that causes that sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home
+ how cleverly he came off. I have had it also in the Country more than
+ once, and that by the idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub
+ has been rinced out only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one
+ but this won't do with a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub
+ with a Hand-brush, Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot
+ scrape any Dirt up under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has
+ baffled the Efforts of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding
+ out a Remedy for the great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on
+ this Score.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and
+ curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of
+ the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it
+ before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness
+ and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of
+ such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in
+ hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there
+ is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain
+ that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts:
+ So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is
+ apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or
+ working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such
+ Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the
+ Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and
+ work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order;
+ but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross
+ nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel,
+ corrupt and make it worse.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the
+ Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or
+ Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but
+ then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as
+ fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and
+ Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my
+ Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged
+ in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how
+ scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the
+ Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful
+ Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the
+ same.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XIII. <i>Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the
+ pernicious Practice of Beating in the Yeast detected</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the
+ ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much
+ discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under
+ many Years, especially by the <i>Northern</i> Brewers, who tho' much famed
+ for their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their
+ Example in the <i>Southern</i> and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet
+ I shall endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in
+ the Yeast, as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom
+ ought not to Authorize an ill Practice. <i>First</i>, I shall observe that
+ Yeast is a very strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous
+ Qualities, whose Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are
+ by a mixture with them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion,
+ occasion'd by Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous
+ Parts of the Wort will be continually striving to get up to the Surface,
+ the glutinous adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding
+ their assent, and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous
+ Particles are set loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may
+ appear by the Froth on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens
+ the Operation, as it assists in opening the viscidities in which some
+ spirituous Parts may be entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included
+ Air: The viscid Parts which are raised to the Top, not only on account of
+ their own lightness, but by the continual efforts and occursions of the
+ Spirits to get uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and
+ prevent the finer Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine
+ Operation is permitted to continue too long, a great deal will get away,
+ and the remaining grow flat and vapid, as Dr. <i>Quincy</i> well observes.
+ Now tho' a small quantity of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of
+ Corruption in the Wort, yet it is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many
+ other Acids are; for if a Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist
+ as some have done for an Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or
+ Blisters in some degree like that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a
+ particular Sense to call it) Ingredient <i>Cantharide</i>, which is one of
+ the Shop Poisons. Here then I shall observe, that I have known several
+ beat the Yeast into the Wort for a Week or more together to improve it, or
+ in plainer terms to load the Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous
+ Particles; and that for two Reasons, <i>First</i>, Because it will make
+ the Liquor so heady, that five Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to
+ six, and that by the stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which
+ mercenary subtilty and imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with
+ the Vulgar and Ignorant, that it has caused many of them to return the
+ next Day to the same Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better
+ Drink than others: But alas, how are such deceived that know no other than
+ that it is the pure Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are
+ driving Nails into their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the
+ corrupt Qualities of this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have
+ proved, by suffering violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other
+ Inconveniencies the Day following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch
+ of such Liquor; who would not perhaps for a great reward swallow a
+ Spoonful of thick Yeast by itself, and yet without any concern may receive
+ for ought they know several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the
+ corrosive Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail
+ (when forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same
+ mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this
+ difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the
+ animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost
+ recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a
+ most learned Doctor observes.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Secondly</i>, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it
+ gives it a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at <i>London</i>, it
+ makes the Ale bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other
+ reason than to further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some
+ Bigots, to me it proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous
+ taste; however my surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the <i>Plymouth</i>
+ People, who are quite the reverse of them at <i>Dover</i> and <i>Chatham</i>;
+ for the first are so attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have
+ undone themselves by drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to
+ the common Brewers brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they
+ immediately put in a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring
+ it up, this is no sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may
+ carry a Froth on the Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt
+ commonly answered its End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the
+ great Quantities they drank, that it farther excited by the biting
+ pleasant stimulating quality the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower
+ also had its seducing share by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its
+ mantling Froth, so that the Sailors that are often here in great Numbers
+ used to consume many Hogsheads of this common Ale with much delight, as
+ thinking it was intirely the pure Product of the Malt.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with
+ what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower
+ of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a <i>Nostrum</i> made and sold only by
+ two or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by
+ many of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen
+ Steens, in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for
+ Twopence Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to
+ be drank by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a
+ prevalent Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the <i>Dover</i> and <i>Chatham</i>
+ People won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Of working and fermenting</i> London <i>Stout Beer and Ale</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In my Brewhouse at <i>London</i>, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun
+ to work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of
+ doing otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the
+ same Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means,
+ and the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot
+ make Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working
+ of those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the
+ Year, as most of the great ones do in <i>London</i>, and some others five
+ times. The strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in
+ the Winter when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two
+ Nights and a Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation
+ as the common brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty,
+ such Beer won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale
+ has indeed its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they
+ carry it away the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly
+ draw it out in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often
+ kept near it, not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better
+ incorporating the Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the
+ foregoing Reasons.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private
+ Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of
+ the Ales; the way that is used in <i>Northamptonshire</i>, and by good
+ Brewers elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm
+ Wort in a Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it
+ works out and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in
+ Summer, and almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it
+ will keep, too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick
+ a motion, whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon,
+ and then the Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never
+ natural; but when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd
+ Head, its Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right
+ management of the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine
+ Months, I put a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will
+ admit of, two Days together, in <i>October</i> or <i>March</i>, and if I
+ find it works too fast, I check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort
+ with a Hand-bowl: So likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same
+ method, because of having them keep some time, and this is so nicely
+ observed by several, that I have seen them do the very same by their small
+ Beer Wort; now by these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often
+ new Commotions raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to
+ the rarefaction and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these
+ joining Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered
+ smoother, or that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from
+ making their Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small
+ Liquors generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a
+ Bottle, and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up
+ towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the Hand-bowl
+ or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a manner, they
+ put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the Sediments at
+ Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub near the Cask to
+ fill it up as it works over, and when it has done working, leave it with a
+ thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and
+ beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in
+ the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work
+ heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the
+ same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs
+ behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in
+ the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But
+ this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have
+ sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never
+ revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all
+ light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human
+ Body.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast
+ some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the
+ Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold
+ out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will
+ so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone
+ Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put
+ into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some
+ time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort,
+ which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken
+ that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest
+ it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some
+ nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into
+ it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated
+ in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper
+ of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more
+ Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several
+ other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury.
+ Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of
+ two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it
+ either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring
+ it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran
+ in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and
+ flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and
+ breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town
+ in <i>Bucks</i> that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first,
+ and then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the
+ Beer or Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must
+ own is very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are
+ to lye nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will
+ be wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must
+ consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top
+ and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial
+ Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will
+ better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore
+ I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great
+ End.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XIV. <i>Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt
+ Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them,
+ because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers
+ drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that
+ lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops
+ and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their
+ long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make
+ it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the
+ Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are
+ sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in
+ Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill
+ property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in <i>London</i>)
+ new thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a
+ Leather Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar,
+ which I shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is,
+ by many put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a
+ substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about
+ three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there
+ Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others
+ there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't touch
+ the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and
+ collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which it
+ is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put into
+ Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a
+ Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating
+ the inebriating Toast, and therefore the <i>Frenchman</i> says, the <i>English</i>
+ are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it:
+ Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the
+ unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a
+ corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the
+ <i>North</i> will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease
+ and Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body
+ than whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But
+ whether it be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle
+ has emitted its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can
+ of the acid qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey
+ upon that again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of
+ Man, as Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have
+ seen in the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly
+ scorn'd what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such
+ corroding consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised
+ that such Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at
+ furthest, and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do
+ good and not harm.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a Quart of <i>French</i> Brandy, or as much of <i>English</i>, that
+ is free from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to
+ this put as much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in
+ long pieces into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or
+ afterwards, and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the
+ Butt, this will maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness
+ off for some time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged.
+ </p>
+ <h3>
+ ANOTHER.
+ </h3>
+ <p>
+ Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed
+ Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon
+ as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will
+ both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great
+ while.
+ </p>
+ <h3>
+ ANOTHER.
+ </h3>
+ <p>
+ Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with
+ two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of
+ coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the
+ Wort</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and
+ Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle,
+ or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it
+ boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling
+ Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second
+ Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being
+ incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous
+ Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is
+ more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if
+ such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as
+ being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another Way</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A Woman, who lived at <i>Leighton Buzzard</i> in <i>Bedfordshire</i>, and
+ had the best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just
+ done working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was
+ fine enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little
+ while a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she
+ boiled in her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine
+ accidentally had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper;
+ so will Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being
+ great finers and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and
+ sourness, and are certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put
+ into a Cask when you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose;
+ but these are dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great
+ measure supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor
+ Body, or to the Hog.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of
+ the Hogshead and stop it close.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To recover deadish Beer</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or
+ five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim
+ it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will
+ make it pleasant, quick and strong.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To make stale Beer drink new</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take the Herb <i>Horehound</i> stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful
+ of the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of
+ Beer, let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To fine Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well
+ together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom,
+ and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and
+ put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass
+ first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the
+ Barrel will settle and clear.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose,
+ but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls
+ that Mr. <i>Ellis</i> of <i>Little Gaddesden</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>
+ has found out by his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers
+ and Relishers of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd
+ Drinks, as I have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a
+ further Account of some other things that will fine, colour and improve
+ Malt Drinks: The Balls are sold at {missing text}
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XV. <i>Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to
+ encrease their Strength</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the
+ disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and
+ ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the
+ precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life,
+ is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the
+ Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the
+ greatest, of the Lord <i>Bacon's</i> Reasons for saying, he thought not
+ one <i>Englishman</i> in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed
+ to be much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the
+ Publicans make it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness
+ what I am afraid is too true, that some have made use of the <i>Coculus
+ India</i> Berry for making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt;
+ but as this is a violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if
+ taken in too large a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of
+ its use than an invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly
+ Nightshade, that it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is
+ bad enough; for one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its
+ Berries that grow in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black
+ Cherry, that the Boy took the wrong for the right.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill
+ Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is <i>Coriander</i>
+ Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of
+ which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me
+ by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers
+ (for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such
+ Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how
+ wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way
+ first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it
+ is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it.
+ Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink;
+ but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a
+ general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without
+ doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides
+ the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake
+ then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts
+ for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true
+ healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of
+ this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I
+ hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such
+ unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort,
+ but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now
+ only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for
+ Reasons that I could here assign.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick
+ by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them
+ wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I
+ hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear
+ salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and
+ Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XVI. <i>Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a
+ Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel,
+ Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of
+ forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in
+ cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where
+ Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence
+ will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it
+ from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather
+ and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the
+ Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very
+ likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep
+ Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in <i>October</i>, that the
+ Drink may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in
+ wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in <i>March</i>, that the Drink
+ may have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced.
+ Now such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a
+ temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have
+ double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then
+ carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it
+ will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places,
+ that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently
+ disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept
+ dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in
+ Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels
+ or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more
+ than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths,
+ which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all
+ damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and
+ sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones;
+ Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have
+ lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate
+ Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and
+ softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the
+ Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be
+ disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in
+ some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with
+ Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults
+ or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding
+ any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar
+ that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour,
+ tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again;
+ and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in
+ <i>March</i> and their brown in <i>October</i>, for that the pale Malt,
+ having not so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need
+ of the Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard
+ and dry is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will
+ help to smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too
+ violent, Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification
+ against them; but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be
+ better.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Some are of Opinion, that <i>October</i> is the best of all other Months
+ to brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months
+ directly follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that
+ Brewed in <i>March</i> because such Beer will not want that Care and
+ Watching, as that brewed in <i>March</i> absolutely requires, by often
+ taking out and putting in the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is
+ always left out, then it deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is
+ not taken in this respect, a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by
+ making the Drink ferment and burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron
+ Hoops are most in Fashion at this time, they are certainly the greatest
+ Security to the safety of the Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the
+ Chesnut Hoop; both which will endure a shorter or longer time as the
+ Cellar is more or less dry, and the Management attending them. The Iron
+ Hoop generally begins to rust first at the Edges, and therefore should be
+ rubbed off when opportunity offers, and be both kept from wet as much as
+ possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or
+ twelve Years, when the Ashen and Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three
+ times as long.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XVII. <i>Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees
+ clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a
+ long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as
+ well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter
+ Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so
+ imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a
+ Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used
+ with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the
+ outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the
+ Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses,
+ they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of
+ the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a
+ furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will
+ be apt to fall in pieces.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another Way</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this
+ pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another Way</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the
+ end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to
+ the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten,
+ but help to fine the Drink.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus:
+ Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two
+ Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip
+ therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders
+ of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire,
+ and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden
+ Bung, so that no Smoke comes out.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For a Musty Cask</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Boil some Pepper in water and fill the Cask with it scalding hot.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>For a very stinking Vessel</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The last Remedy is the Coopers taking out one of the Heads of the Cask to
+ scrape the inside, or new-shave the Staves, and is the surest way of all
+ others, if it is fired afterwards within-side a small matter, as the
+ Cooper knows how.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These several Methods may be made use of at Discretion, and will be of
+ great Service where they are wanted. The sooner also a Remedy is applied,
+ the better; else the Taint commonly encreases, as many have to their
+ prejudice proved, who have made use of such Casks, in hopes the next Beer
+ will overcome it; but when once a Cask is infected, it will be a long
+ while, if ever, before it becomes sweet, if no Art is used. Many therefore
+ of the careful sort, in case they han't a Convenience to fill their Vessel
+ as soon as it is empty, will stop it close, to prevent the Air and
+ preserve the Lees sound, which will greatly tend to the keeping of the
+ Cask pure and sweet against the next Occasion.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>To prepare a new Vessel to keep Malt Liquors in</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ A new Vessel is most improperly used by some ignorant People for strong
+ Drink after only once or twice scalding with Water, which is so wrong,
+ that such Beer or Ale will not fail of tasting thereof for half, if not a
+ whole Year afterwards; such is the Tang of the Oak and its Bark, as may be
+ observed from the strong Scents of Tan-Yards, which the Bark is one cause
+ of. To prevent then this Inconvenience, when your Brewing is over put up
+ some Water scalding hot, and let it run throu' the Grains, then boil it
+ and fill up the Cask, stop it well and let it stand till it is cold, do
+ this twice, then take the Grounds of strong Drink and boil in it green
+ Wallnut Leaves and new Hay or Wheat Straw, and put all into the Cask, that
+ it be full and stop it close. After this, use it for small Beer half a
+ Year together, and then it will be thoroughly sweet and fit for strong
+ Drinks; or
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Another Way</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Take a new Cask and dig a Hole in the Ground, in which it may lye half
+ depth with the Bung downwards; let it remain a Week, and it will greatly
+ help this or any stinking musty Cask. But besides these, I have writ of
+ two other excellent Ways to sweeten musty or stinking Casks, in my Second
+ Book of Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Wine Casks</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ These, in my Opinion, are the cheapest of all others to furnish a Person
+ readily with, as being many of them good Casks for Malt Liquors, because
+ the Sack and White-Wine sorts are already season'd to Hand, and will
+ greatly improve Beers and Ales that are put in them: But beware of the
+ Rhenish Wine Cask for strong Drinks; for its Wood is so tinctured with
+ this sharp Wine, that it will hardly ever be free of it, and therefore
+ such Cask is best used for Small Beer: The Claret Cask will a great deal
+ sooner be brought into a serviceable State for holding strong Drink, if it
+ is two or three times scalded with Grounds of Barrels, and afterwards used
+ for small Beer for some time. I have bought a Butt or Pipe for eight
+ Shillings in <i>London</i> with some Iron Hoops on it, a good Hogshead for
+ the same, and the half Hogshead for five Shillings, the Carriage for a
+ Butt by the Waggon thirty Miles is two Shillings and Sixpence, and the
+ Hogshead Eighteen-pence: But, to cure a Claret Cask of its Colour and
+ Taste, put a Peck of Stone-Lime into a Hogshead, and pour upon it three
+ Pails of Water; bung immediately with a Wood-or Cork Bung, and shake it
+ well about a quarter of an Hour, and let it stand a Day and Night and it
+ will bring off the red Colour, and alter the Taste of the Cask very much.
+ But of three several other excellent Methods for curing musty, stinking,
+ new and other tainted Casks, I have writ of in my Account of Casks in my
+ Second Book.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XVIII. <i>Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of Malt Liquors to some
+ distance</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ I am sure this is of no small Consequence, however it may be esteemed as a
+ light matter by some; for if this is not duly perform'd, all our Charge,
+ Labour and Care will be lost; and therefore here I shall dissent from my
+ <i>London</i> Fashion, where I bung'd up my Ale with Pots of Clay only, or
+ with Clay mix'd with Bay Salt, which is the better of the two, because
+ this Salt will keep the Clay moist longer than in its Original State; and
+ the Butt Beers and fine Ales were Bung'd with Cork drove in with a piece
+ of Hop-Sack or Rag, which I think are all insipid, and the occasion of
+ spoiling great Quantities of Drink, especially the small Beers; for when
+ the Clay is dry, which is soon in Summer, there cannot be a regular Vent
+ thro' it, and then the Drink from that time flattens and stales to the
+ great loss in a Year to some Owners, and the Benefit of the Brewer; for
+ then a fresh Cask must be Tapp'd to supply it, and the remaining part of
+ the other throw'd away. Now, to prevent this great Inconvenience, my
+ Bung-holes are not quite of the largest size of all, and yet big enough
+ for the common wooden Iron Hoop'd Funnel used in some Brew-houses: In this
+ I put in a turned piece of Ash or Sallow three Inches broad at Top, and
+ two Inches and a half long, first putting in a double piece of dry brown
+ Paper, that is so broad that an Inch or more may be out of it, after the
+ wooden Bung is drove down with a Hammer pretty tight; this Paper must be
+ furl'd or twisted round the Bung, and another loose piece upon and around
+ that, with a little Yeast, and a small Peg put into the Bung, which is to
+ be raised at Discretion when the Beer is drawing, or at other times to
+ give it Vent if there should be occasion: Others will put some Coal or
+ Wood Ashes wetted round this Bung, which will bind very hard, and prevent
+ any Air getting into or out of the Cask; but this in time is apt to rot,
+ and wear the Bung-hole by the Salt or Sulphur in the Ashes, and employing
+ a Knife to scrape it afterwards. Yet, for keeping Beers, it's the best
+ Security of all other ways whatsoever.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ There is also a late Invention practised by a common Brewer in the Country
+ that I am acquainted with, for the safe Carriage of Drink on Drays, to
+ some distance without losing any of it, and that is in the Top Center of
+ one of these Bungs, he puts in a wooden Funnel, whose Spout is about four
+ Inches long, and less than half an Inch Diameter at Bottom; this is turned
+ at Top into a concave Fashion like a hollow round Bowl, that will hold
+ about a Pint, which is a constant Vent to the Cask, and yet hinders the
+ Liquor from ascending no faster than the Bowl can receive, and return it
+ again into the Barrel: I may say further, he has brought a Barrel two
+ Miles, and it was then full, when it arrived at his Customers, because the
+ Pint that was put into the Funnel, at setting out, was not at all lost
+ when he took it off the Dray; this may be also made of Tin; and will serve
+ from the Butt to the small Cask.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the Butt there is a Cork-hole made about two Inches below the upper
+ Head, and close under that a piece of Leather is nailed Spout-fashion,
+ that jetts three Inches out, from which the Yeast works and falls into a
+ Tub, and when the working is over the Cork is put closely in, for the Bung
+ in the Head of the upright Cask is put in as soon as it is filled up with
+ new Drink: Now when such a Cask is to be broach'd and a quick Draught is
+ to follow, then it may be tapp'd at Bottom; but if otherwise, the Brass
+ Cock ought to be first put in at the middle, and before the Drink sinks to
+ that it should be Tapp'd at Bottom to prevent the breaking of the Head of
+ Yeast, and its growing stale, flat and sour.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In some Places in the Country when they brew Ale or Beer to send to <i>London</i>
+ at a great Distance, they let it be a Year old before they Tap it, so that
+ then it is perfectly fine; this they put into small Casks that have a
+ Bung-hole only fit for a large Cork, and then they immediately put in a
+ Role of Bean-flour first kneaded with Water or Drink, and baked in an
+ Oven, which is all secured by pitching in the Cork, and so sent in the
+ Waggon; the Bean-flour feeding and preserving the Body of the Drink all
+ the way, without fretting or causing it to burst the Cask for want of
+ Vent, and when Tapp'd will also make the Drink very brisk, because the
+ Flour is in such a hard Consistence, that it won't dissolve in that time;
+ but if a little does mix with the Ale or Beer, its heavy Parts will sooner
+ fine than thicken the Drink and keep it mellow and lively to the last, if
+ Air is kept out of the Barrel.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XIX. <i>Of the Strength and Age of Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Whether they be Ales or strong Beers, it is certain that the midling sort
+ is allowed by Physicians to be the most agreeable of any, especially to
+ those of a sedentary Life, or those that are not occupied in such Business
+ as promotes Perspiration enough to throw out and break the Viscidities of
+ the stronger sorts; on which account the laborious Man has the advantage,
+ whose Diet being poor and Body robust, the strength of such Liquors gives
+ a Supply and better digests into Nourishment: But for the unactive Man a
+ Hogshead of Ale which is made from six Bushels of Malt is sufficient for a
+ Diluter of their Food, and will better assist their Constitution than the
+ more strong sort, that would in such produce Obstructions and ill Humours;
+ and therefore that Quantity for Ale, and ten Bushels for a Hogshead of
+ strong Beer that should not be Tapp'd under nine Months, is the most
+ healthful. And this I have experienc'd by enjoying such an Amber Liquor
+ that has been truly brewed from good Malt, as to be of a Vinous Nature,
+ that would permit of a hearty Dose over Night, and yet the next Morning
+ leave a Person light, brisk and unconcern'd. This then is the true Nostrum
+ of Brewing, and ought to be studied and endeavoured for by all those that
+ can afford to follow the foregoing Rules, and then it will supply in a
+ great measure those chargeable (and often adulterated tartarous
+ arthritick) Wines. So likewise for small Beer, especially in a Farmer's
+ Family where it is not of a Body enough, the Drinkers will be feeble in
+ hot Weather and not be able to perform their Work, and will also bring on
+ Distempers, besides the loss of time, and a great waste of such Beer that
+ is generally much thrown away; because Drink is certainly a Nourisher of
+ the Body, as well as Meats, and the more substantial they both are, the
+ better will the Labourer go through his Work, especially at Harvest; and
+ in large Families the Doctor's Bills have proved the Evil of this bad
+ Oeconomy, and far surmounted the Charge of that Malt that would have kept
+ the Servants in good Health, and preserved the Beer from such Waste as the
+ smaller sort is liable to.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ 'Tis therefore that some prudent Farmers will brew their Ale and small
+ Beer in <i>March</i>, by allowing of five or six Bushels of Malt, and two
+ Pounds of Hops to the Hogshead of Ale, and a quarter of Malt and three
+ Pounds of Hops to five Barrels of small Beer. Others there are, that will
+ brew their Ale or strong Beer in <i>October</i>, and their small Beer a
+ Month before it is wanted. Others will brew their Ale and small Beer in <i>April,
+ May</i> and <i>June</i>; but this according to humour, and therefore I
+ have hinted of the several Seasons for Brewing these Liquors: However in
+ my Opinion, whether it be strong or small Drinks, they should be clear,
+ smooth and not too small, if they are design'd for Profit and Health; for
+ if they are otherwise, it will be a sad Evil to Harvest Men, because then
+ they stand most in need of the greatest Balsamicks: To this end some of
+ the softning Ingredients mentioned in the foregoing Receipts should be
+ made use of to feed it accordingly, if these Drinks are brewed forward.
+ And that this particular important Article in the Brewing Oeconomy may be
+ better understood, I shall here recite Dr. <i>Quincy</i>'s Opinion of Malt
+ Liquors, viz. The Age of Malt Drinks makes them more or less wholsome, and
+ seems to do somewhat the same as Hops; for those Liquors which are longest
+ kept, are certainly the least viscid; Age by degrees breaking the viscid
+ Parts, and rendering them smaller, makes them finer for Secretion; but
+ this is always to be determined by their Strength, because in Proportion
+ to that will they sooner or later come to their full Perfection and
+ likewise their Decay, until the finer Spirits quite make their Escape, and
+ the remainder becomes vapid and sour. By what therefore has been already
+ said, it will appear that the older Drinks are the more healthful, so they
+ be kept up to this Standard, but not beyond it. Some therefore are of
+ Opinion, that strong Beer brewed in <i>October</i> should be Tapp'd at <i>Midsummer</i>,
+ and that brewed in <i>March</i> at <i>Christmas</i>, as being most
+ agreeable to the Seasons of the Year that follow such Brewings: For then
+ they will both have part of a Summer and Winter to ripen and digest their
+ several Bodies; and 'tis my humble Opinion, that where the Strength of the
+ Beer, the Quantity of Hops, the boiling Fermentation and the Cask are all
+ rightly managed, there Drink may be most excellent, and better at nine
+ Months Age, than at nine Years, for Health and Pleasure of Body. But to be
+ truly certain of the right Time, there should be first an Examination made
+ by Pegging the Vessel to prove if such Drink is fine, the Hop sufficiently
+ rotted, and it be mellow and well tasted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XX. <i>Of the Pleasure and Profit of Private Brewing, and the Charge
+ of buying Malt Liquors</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ Here I am to treat of the main Article of shewing the difference between
+ brewing our own Ales and Beers, and buying them, which I doubt not will
+ appear so plain and evident, as to convince any Reader, that many Persons
+ may save well towards half in half, and have their Beer and Ale strong,
+ fine and aged at their own Discretion: A satisfaction that is of no small
+ weight, and the rather since I have now made known a Method of Brewing a
+ Quantity of Malt with a little Copper and a few Tubs, a Secret that has
+ long wanted Publication; for now a Person may Brew in a little Room, and
+ that very safely by keeping his Wort from Foxing, as I have already
+ explained, which by many has been thought impossible heretofore; and this
+ Direction is the more Valuable as there are many Thousands who live in
+ Cities and Towns, that have no more than a few Yards Square of Room to
+ perform a private Brewing in. And as for the trouble, it is easy to
+ account for by those who have time enough on their Hands, and would do
+ nothing else if they had not done this: Or if a Man is paid half a Crown a
+ Day for a Quantity accordingly: Or if a Servant can do this besides his
+ other Work for the same Wages and Charge, I believe the following account
+ will make it appear it is over-ballanc'd considerably, by what such a
+ Person may save in this undertaking, besides the Pleasure of thoroughly
+ knowing the several Ingredients and Cleanliness of the Brewer and
+ Utensils. In several of the Northern Counties of <i>England</i>, where
+ they have good Barley, Coak-dryed Malt, and the Drink brewed at Home,
+ there are seldom any bad Ales or Beers, because they have the Knowledge in
+ Brewing so well, that there are hardly any common Brewers amongst them: In
+ the West indeed there are some few, but in the South and East Parts there
+ are many; and now follows the Account, that I have Stated according to my
+ own general Practice, viz.
+ </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+<i>A Calculation of the Charge and Profit of Brewing six Bushels of Malt for
+a private Family</i>.
+
+ £. s. d.
+ Six Bushels of Malt at 2s. 8d.
+ <i>per</i> Bushel, Barley being this )
+ Year 1733. sold for 14s. <i>per</i> ) 0 16 0
+ Quarter by the Farmer )
+
+ Hops one Pound 0 1 6
+
+ Yeast a Quart 0 0 4
+
+ Coals one Bushel, or if Wood or Furze 0 1 0
+
+ A Man's Wages a Day 0 2 6
+ &mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;&mdash;
+ Total 1 1 4
+</pre>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+<i>Of these six Bushels of Malt I make one Hogshead of Ale and another of
+Small Beer: But if I was to buy them of some common Brewers, the Charge
+will be as follows</i>, viz.
+
+ £ s. d.
+
+ One Hogshead of Ale containing 48 )
+ Gallons, at 6 <i>d. per</i> Gallon is ) 1 4 0
+
+ One Hogshead of Small Beer )
+ containing 54 Gallons, at 2 <i>d</i>. )
+ 0 9 0 <i>per</i> Gallon is ) 0 9 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ 1 13 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ Total Saved 0 11 8
+</pre>
+ <p>
+ By the above Account it plainly appears, that 11 s. and 8 d. is clearly
+ gained in Brewing of six Bushels of Malt at our own House for a private
+ Family, and yet I make the Charge fuller by 2 s. and 6 d. then it will
+ happen with many, whose Conveniency by Servants, &amp;c. may intirely take
+ it off; besides the six Bushels of Grains that are currently sold for
+ Three-pence the Bushel, which will make the Eleven and Eight-pence more by
+ four Shillings, without reckoning any thing for yeast, that in the very
+ cheapest time sells here for Four-pence the Quart, and many times there
+ happens three Quarts from so much Drink; so that there may possibly be
+ gained in all sixteen Shillings and Eight-pence: A fine Sum indeed in so
+ small a Quantity of Malt. But here by course will arise a Question,
+ whether this Ale is as good as that bought of some of the common Brewers
+ at Six-pence a Gallon; I can't say all is; however I can aver this, that
+ the Ale I brew in the Country from six Bushels of Malt for my Family, I
+ think is generally full as good, if not better than any I ever sold at
+ that Price in my <i>London</i> Brewhouse: And if I should say, that where
+ the Malt, Water and Hops are right good, and the Brewer's Skill answerable
+ to them, there might be a Hogshead of as good Ale and another of small
+ Beer made from five Bushels as I desire to use for my Family, or for
+ Harvest Men; It is no more than I have many times experienced, and 'tis
+ the common length I made for that Purpose. And whoever makes use of true
+ Pale and Amber Malts, and pursues the Directions of this Book, I doubt not
+ but will have their Expectation fully answered in this last Quantity, and
+ so save the great Expence of Excise that the common Brewers Drink is
+ always clogg'd with, which is {blotted text} than five Shillings for Ale
+ and Eighteen-pence <i>per</i> Barrel for Small Beer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <br /><br />
+ </p>
+ <hr />
+ <p>
+ <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> </a>
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 4em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+ <h2>
+ CHAP. XXI. <i>A Philosophical Account for Brewing strong</i> October <i>Beer.
+ By an Ingenious Hand</i>.
+ </h2>
+ <p>
+ In Brewing, your Malt ought to be sound and good, and after its making to
+ lye two or more Months in the Heap, to come to such a temper, that the
+ Kernel may readily melt in the washing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The well dressing your Malt, ought to be one chief Care; for unless it be
+ freed from the Tails and Dust, your Drink will not be fine and mellow as
+ when it is clean dressed.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The grinding also must be considered according to the high or low drying
+ of the Malt; for if high dryed, then a gross grinding is best, otherwise a
+ smaller may be done; for the Care in grinding consists herein, lest too
+ much of the Husk being ground small should mix with the Liquor, which
+ makes a gross Feces, and consequently your Drink will have too fierce a
+ Fermentation, and by that means make it Acid, or that we call Stale.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When your Malt is ground, let it stand in Sacks twenty-four Hours at
+ least, to the end that the Heat in grinding may be allayed, and 'tis
+ conceived by its so standing that the Kernel will dissolve the better.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The measure and quantity we allow of Hops and Malt, is five Quarter of
+ Malt to three Hogsheads of Beer, and eighteen Pounds of Hops at least to
+ that Quantity of Malt, and if Malt be pale dryed, then add three or four
+ Pounds of Hops more.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Choice of Liquor for Brewing is of considerable advantage in making
+ good Drink, the softest and cleanest water is to be prererr'd, your harsh
+ water is not to be made use of.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ You are to boil your first Liquor, adding a Handful or two of Hops to it,
+ then before you strike it over to your Goods or Malt, cool in as much
+ Liquor, as will bring it to a temper not to scald the Malt, for it is a
+ fault not to take the Liquor as high as possible but not to scald. The
+ next Liquors do the same.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And indeed all your Liquors ought to be taken as high as may be, that is
+ not to scald.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When you let your Wort from your Malt into the Underback, put to it a
+ Handful or two of Hops, 'twill preserve it from that accident which
+ Brewers call Blinking or Foxing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In boiling your Worts, the first Wort boil high or quick; for the quicker
+ the first Wort is boiled, the better it is.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The second boil more than the first, and the third or last more than the
+ second.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In cooling lay your Worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and Care must
+ be taken in letting them down into the Tun, that you do it leisurely, to
+ the end that as little of the Feces or Sediment which causes the
+ Fermentation to be fierce or mild, for Note, there is in all fermented
+ Liquors, Salt and Sulphur, and to keep these two Bodies in a due
+ Proportion, that the Salt does not exalt itself above the Sulphur,
+ consists a great part of the Art in Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When your Wort is first let into your Tun, put but a little Yeast to it,
+ and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate,
+ whip in the Yeast two or three times or more, till you find your Drink
+ well fermented, for without a full opening of the Body by fermentation, it
+ will not be perfect fine, nor will it drink clean and light.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When you cleanse, do it by a Cock from your Tun, placed six Inches from
+ the Bottom, to the end that most of the Sediment may be left behind, which
+ may be thrown on your Malt to mend your Small Beer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ When your Drink is Tunn'd, fill your Vessel full, let it work at the
+ Bung-hole, and have a reserve in a small Cask to fill it up, and don't put
+ any of the Drink which will be under the Yeast after it is work'd over
+ into your Vessels, but put it by itself in another Cask, for it will not
+ be so good as your other in the Cask.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This done, you must wait for the finishing of the fermentation, then stop
+ it close, and let it stand till the Spring, for Brewing ought to be done
+ in the Month of <i>October</i>, that it may have time to settle and digest
+ all the Winter Season.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In the Spring you must unstop your Vent-hole and thereby see whether your
+ Drink doth ferment or not, for as soon as the warm Weather comes, your
+ Drink will have another fermentation, which when it is over, let it be
+ again well stopped and stand till <i>September</i> or longer, and then Peg
+ it; and if you find it pretty fine, the Hop well rotted and of a good
+ pleasant taste for drinking.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ Then and not before draw out a Gallon of it, put to it two Ounces of
+ Ising-glass cut small and well beaten to melt, stirring it often and whip
+ it with a Wisk till the Ising-glass be melted, then strain it and put it
+ into your Vessel, stirring it well together, stop the Bung slightly, for
+ this will cause a new and small fermentation, when that is over stop it
+ close, leaving only a Vent-hole a little stopp'd, let it stand, and in ten
+ Days or a little more, it will be transparently fine, and you may drink of
+ it out of the Vessel till two parts in three be drawn, then Bottle the
+ rest, which will in a little time come to drink very well. If your Drink
+ in <i>September</i> be well condition'd for taste, but not fine, and you
+ desire to drink it presently, rack it before you put your Ising-glass to
+ it, and then it will fine the better and drink the cleaner.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ To make Drink fine quickly, I have been told that by separating the Liquor
+ from the Feces, when the Wort is let out of the Tun into the Underback,
+ which may be done in this manner, when you let your Wort into your
+ Underback out of your Tun, catch the Wort in some Tub so long, and so
+ often as you find it run foul, put that so catched on the Malt again, and
+ do so till the Wort run clear into the Underback. This is to me a very
+ good way (where it may be done) for 'tis the Feces which causes the fierce
+ and violent fermentation, and to hinder that in some measure is the way to
+ have fine Drink: Note that the finer you make your Wort, the sooner your
+ Drink will be fine, for I have heard that some Curious in Brewing have
+ caused Flannels to be so placed, that all the Wort may run thro' one or
+ more of them into the Tun before working, by which means the Drink was
+ made very fine and well tasted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ <i>Observations on the foregoing Account</i>.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ This Excellent Philosophical Account of Brewing <i>October</i> Beer, has
+ hitherto remained in private Hands as a very great Secret, and was given
+ to a Friend of mine by the Author himself, to whom the World is much
+ obliged, altho' it comes by me; In justice therefore to this ingenious
+ Person, I would here mention his Name, had I leave for so doing; but at
+ present this Intimation must suffice. However, I shall here take notice,
+ that his Caution against using tailed or dusty Malt, which is too commonly
+ sold, is truly worthy of Observation; for these are so far from producing
+ more Ale or Beer, that they absorb and drink part of it up.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ In Grinding Malts he notifies well to prevent a foul Drink.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The quantity he allows is something above thirteen Bushels to the Hogshead
+ which is very sufficient; but this as every body pleases.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The Choice of Liquors or Waters for Brewing, he says, is of considerable
+ advantage; and so must every body else that knows their Natures and loves
+ Health, and pleasant Drink: For this purpose, in my Opinion, the Air and
+ Soil is to be regarded where the Brewing is performed; since the Air
+ affects all things it can come at, whether Animal, Vegetable or Mineral,
+ as may be proved from many Instances: In the Marshes of <i>Kent</i> and <i>Essex</i>,
+ the Air there is generally so infectious by means of those low vaesy boggy
+ Grounds, that seldom a Person escapes an Ague one time or other, whether
+ Natives or Aliens, and is often fatally known to some of the <i>Londoners</i>
+ and others who merrily and nimbly travel down to the Isles of <i>Grain</i>
+ and <i>Sheppy</i> for a valuable Harvest, but in a Month's time they
+ generally return thro' the Village of <i>Soorne</i> with another Mien.
+ There is also a little <i>Moor</i> in <i>Hertfordshire</i>, thro' which a
+ Water runs that frequently gives the <i>Passant</i> Horses that drink of
+ it, the Colick or Gripes, by means of the aluminous sharp Particles of its
+ Earth; Its Air is also so bad, as has obliged several to remove from its
+ Situation for their Healths: The Dominion of the Air is likewise so
+ powerful over Vegetables, that what will grow in one Place won't in
+ another, as is plain from the Beech and Black Cherry Tree, that refuse the
+ Vale of <i>Ailesbury</i> tho' on some Hills there, yet will thrive in the
+ <i>Chiltern</i> or Hilly Country: So the Limes and other Trees about <i>London</i>
+ are all generally black-barked, while those in the Country are most of
+ them of a Silver white. Water is also so far under the Influence of the
+ Air and Soil, as makes many excellent for Brewing when others are as bad.
+ In Rivers, that run thro' boggy Places, the Sullage or Washings of such
+ Soils are generally unwholsome as the nature of such Ground is; and so the
+ Water becomes infected by that and the Effluvia or Vapour that accompanies
+ such Water: So Ponds are surely good or bad, as they are under too much
+ Cover or supply'd by nasty Drains, or as they stand situated or exposed to
+ good and bad Airs. Thus the Well-waters by consequence share in the good
+ or bad Effects of such Soils that they run thorough, and the very Surface
+ of the Earth by which such Waters are strained, is surely endowed with the
+ quality of the Air in which it lies; which brings me to my intended
+ purpose, to prove that Water drawn out of a Chalky, or Fire-stone Well,
+ which is situated under a dry sweet loamy Soil, in a fine pure Air, and
+ that is perfectly soft, must excel most if not all other Well-waters for
+ the purpose in Brewing. The Worts also that are rooted in such an Air, in
+ course partakes of its nitrous Benefits, as being much exposed thereto in
+ the high Backs or Coolers that contain them. In my own Grounds I have
+ Chalks under Clays and Loams; but as the latter is better than the former,
+ so the Water proves more soft and wholsome under one than the other. Hence
+ then may be observed the contrary Quality of those harsh curdling
+ Well-waters that many drink of in their Malt Liquors, without considering
+ their ill Effects, which are justly condemn'd by this able Author as unfit
+ to be made use of in Brewing <i>October</i> Beer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The boiling a few Hops in the first Water is good, but they must be
+ strained thro' a Sieve before the Water is put into the Malt; and to check
+ its Heat with cold Liquor, or to let it stand to cool some time, is a
+ right Method, lest it scalds and locks up the Pores of the Malt, which
+ would then yield a thick Wort to the end of the Brewing and never be good
+ Drink.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His putting Hops into the Underback, is an excellent Contrivance to
+ prevent foxing, as I have already hinted.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The quick boiling of the Wort is of no less Service, and that the smaller
+ Wort should be boiled longer than the strong is good Judgment, because the
+ stronger the Wort, the sooner the Spirits flie away and the waste of more
+ Consequence; besides if the first Wort was to be boiled too long, it would
+ obtain so thick a Body, as to prevent in great measure its fining
+ hereafter after so soon in the Barrel; while the smaller sort will
+ evaporate its more watry Parts, and thereby be brought into a thicker
+ Confidence, which is perfectly necessary in thin Worts; and in this
+ Article lies so much the Skill of the Brewer, that some will make a longer
+ Length than ordinary from the Goods for Small Beer, to shorten it
+ afterwards in the Copper by Length of boiling, and this way of consuming
+ it is the more natural, because the remaining part will be better Cured.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ The laying Worts thin is a most necessary Precaution; for this is one way
+ to prevent their running into Cohesions and Foxing, the want of which
+ Knowledge and Care has undoubtedly been the occasion of great Losses in
+ Brewing; for when Worts are tainted in any considerable degree, they will
+ be ropy in time and unfit for the human Body, as being unwholsome as well
+ as unpleasant. So likewise is his <i>Item</i> of great Importance, when he
+ advises to draw the Worts off fine out of the Backs or Coolers, and leave
+ the Feces or Sediments behind, by reason, as he says, they are the cause
+ of those two detested Qualities in Malt Liquors, staleness and foulness,
+ two Properties that ought to imploy the greatest Care in Brewers to
+ prevent; for 'tis certain these Sediments are a Composition of the very
+ worst part of the Malt, Hops and Yeast, and, while they are in the Barrel,
+ will so tincture and impregnate the Drink with their insanous and
+ unpleasant nature, that its Drinkers will be sure to participate thereof
+ more or less as they have lain together a longer or a shorter time. To
+ have then a Malt Drink balsamick and mild, the Worts cannot be run off too
+ fine from the Coolers, nor well fermented too slow, that there may be a
+ Medium kept, in both the Salt and Sulphur that all fermented Malt Drinks
+ abound with, and herein, as he says, lies a great part of the Art of
+ Brewing.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ He says truly well, that a little Yeast at first should be put to the
+ Wort, that it may quietly work by degrees, and not be violently forc'd
+ into a high Fermentation; for then by course the Salt and Sulphur will be
+ too violently agitated into such an Excess and Disagreement of Parts, that
+ will break their Unity into irregular Commotions, and cause the Drink to
+ be soon stale and harsh. But if it should be too backward and work too
+ moderate, then whipping the Yeast two or three times into it will be of
+ some service to open the Body of the Beer, for as he observes, if Drink
+ has not a due fermentation, it will not be fine, clean, nor light.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ His advice to draw the Drink out of the Tun by a Cock at such a distance
+ from the bottom is right; because that room will best keep the Feces from
+ being disturb'd as the Drink is drawing off, and leaving them behind; but
+ for putting them afterwards over the Malt for Small Beer, I don't hold it
+ consonant with good Brewing, by reason in this Sediment there are many
+ Particles of the Yeast, that consequently will cause a small Fermentation
+ in the Liquor and Malt, and be a means to spoil rather than make good
+ Small Beer.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ What he says of filling up the Cask with a reserve of the same Drink, and
+ not with that which has once worked out, is past dispute just and right.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ And so is what he says of stopping up the Vessel close after the
+ Fermentation is over; but that it is best to Brew all strong Beer in <i>October</i>,
+ I must here take leave to dissent from the Tenet, because there is room
+ for several Objections in relation to the sort of Malt and Cellar, which
+ as I have before explained, shall say the less here.
+ </p>
+ <p>
+ As he observes Care should be taken in the Spring to unstop the Vent, lest
+ the warm Weather cause such a Fermentation as may burst the Cask, and also
+ in <i>September</i>, that it be first try'd by Pegging if the Drink is
+ fine, well tasted and the Hop rotted; and then if his Way is liked best,
+ bring the rest into a transparent Fineness; for Clearness in Malt Liquors,
+ as I said before, and here repeat it again, is a most agreeable Quality
+ that every Man ought to enjoy for his Health and Pleasure, and therefore
+ he advises for dispatch in this Affair, and to have the Drink very fine,
+ to rack it off before the Ising-glass is put in; but I can't be a Votary
+ for this Practice, as believing the Drink must lose a great deal of its
+ Spirits by such shifting; yet I must chime in with his Notion of putting
+ the Wort so often over the Malt till it comes off fine as I have already
+ taught, which is a Method that has been used many Years in the North of <i>England</i>,
+ where they are so curious as to let the Wort lie some time in the
+ Underback to draw it off from the Feces there; nor are they less careful
+ to run it fine out of the Cooler into the Tun, and from that into the
+ Cask; in all which three several Places the Wort and Drink may be had
+ clear and fine, and then there will be no more Sediments than is just
+ necessary to assist and seed the Beer, and preserving its Spirits in a due
+ Temper. But if Persons have Time and Conveniency, and their Inclination
+ leads them to, obtain their Drink in the utmost Fineness, it is an
+ extraordinary good way to use <i>Hippocrates</i> Sleeve or Flannel Bag,
+ which I did in my great Brew-house at <i>London</i> for straining off the
+ Feces that were left in the Backs. As to the Quantity of Malt for Brewing
+ a Hogshead of <i>October</i> Beer, I am of Opinion thirteen Bushels are
+ right, and so are ten, fifteen and twenty, according as People approve of;
+ for near <i>Litchfield</i>, I know some have brewed a Hogshead of <i>October</i>
+ Beer from sixteen Bushels of Barley Malt, one of Wheat, one of Beans, one
+ of Pease and one of Oat Malt, besides hanging a Bag of Flower taken out of
+ the last four Malts in the Hogshead for the Drink to feed on, nor can a
+ certain Time Be limited and adjusted for the Tapping of any Drink
+ (notwithstanding what has been affirmed to the contrary) because some Hops
+ will not be rotted so soon as others, and some Drinks will not fine so
+ soon as others; as is evident in the Pale Malt Drinks, that will seldom or
+ never break so soon in the Copper as the Brown sort, nor will they be so
+ soon ripe and fit to Tap as the high dryed Malt Drink will. Therefore what
+ this Gentleman says of trying Drink by first Pegging it before it is
+ Tapp'd, in my Opinion is more just and right than relying on a limited
+ time for Broaching such Beer.
+ </p>
+ <div style="height: 6em;">
+ <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+ </div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
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+</pre>
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+ </body>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The London and Country Brewer
+
+Author: Anonymous
+
+
+Release Date: September, 2005 [EBook #8900]
+[This file was first posted on August 22, 2003]
+Last updated: April 30, 2013
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LONDON AND COUNTRY BREWER ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jim Liddil and PG Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE LONDON and COUNTRY BREWER
+
+By Anonymous
+
+1736
+
+
+
+Containing an Account,
+
+
+I. Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and
+ Manures for the Improvement thereof.
+
+II. Of making good Malts.
+
+III. To know good from bad Malts.
+
+IV. Of the Use of the Pale, Amber, and Brown Malts.
+
+V. Of the Nature of several Waters, and their Use in Brewing.
+
+VI. Of Grinding Malts.
+
+VII. Of Brewing in general.
+
+VIII. Of the _London_ Method of Brewing Stout, But-Beer, Pale and Brown
+ Ales.
+
+IX. Of the Country or Private Way of Brewing.
+
+X. Of the Nature and Use of the Hop.
+
+XI. Of Boiling Malt liquors, and to Brew a Quantity of Drink in a little
+ Room, and with a few Tubs.
+
+XII. Of Foxing or Tainting of Malt Liquors; their Prevention and Cure.
+
+XIII. Of Fermenting and Working of Beers and Ales, and the unwholesome
+ Practice of Beating in the Yeast, detected.
+
+XIV. Of several artificial Lees for feeding, fining, preserving, and
+ relishing Malt Liquors.
+
+XV. Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease
+ their Strength.
+
+XVI. Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales.
+
+XVII. Of Sweetening and Cleaning Casks.
+
+XVIII. Of Bunging Casks and Carrying them to some Distance.
+
+XIX. Of the Age and Strength of Malt Liquors.
+
+XX. Of the Profit and Pleasure of Private Brewing and the Charge of
+ Buying Malt Liquors.
+
+To which is added,
+
+XXI. A Philosophical Account of Brewing Strong _October_ Beer.
+ By an Ingenious Hand.
+
+
+
+By a Person formerly concerned in a Common Brewhouse at _London_, but for
+twenty Years past has resided in the Country.
+
+
+
+The SECOND EDITION, Corrected.
+
+
+
+LONDON
+
+Printed for Messeurs Fox, at the _Half-Moon and Seven Stars_, in
+_Westminster-Hall_. M.DCC.XXXVI.
+
+[Price Two Shillings.]
+
+
+
+
+
+THE PREFACE.
+
+
+The many Inhabitants of Cities and Towns, as well as Travellers, that have
+for a long time suffered great Prejudices from unwholsome and unpleasant
+Beers and Ales, by the badness of Malts, underboiling the Worts, mixing
+injurious Ingredients, the unskilfulness of the Brewer, and the great
+Expense that Families have been at in buying them clogg'd with a heavy
+Excise, has moved me to undertake the writing of this Treatise on Brewing,
+Wherein I have endeavour'd to set in sight the many advantages of Body
+and Purse that may arise from a due Knowledge and Management in Brewing
+Malt Liquors, which are of the greatest Importance, as they are in a
+considerable degree our Nourishment and the common Diluters of our Food;
+so that on their goodness depends very much the Health and Longevity of
+the Body.
+
+This bad Economy in Brewing has brought on such a Disrepute, and made our
+Malt Liquors in general so odious, that many have been constrain'd, either
+to be at an Expence for better Drinks than their Pockets could afford, or
+take up with a Toast and Water to avoid the too justly apprehended ill
+Consequences of Drinking such Ales and Beers.
+
+Wherefore I have given an Account of Brewing Beers and Ales after several
+Methods; and also several curious Receipts for feeding, fining and
+preserving Malt Liquors, that are most of them wholsomer than the Malt
+itself, and so cheap that none can object against the Charge, which I
+thought was the ready way to supplant the use of those unwholsome
+Ingredients that have been made too free with by some ill principled
+People meerly for their own Profit, tho' at the Expence of the Drinker's
+Health.
+
+_I hope I have adjusted that long wanted Method of giving a due Standard
+both to the Hop and Wort, which never was yet (as I know of) rightly
+ascertain'd in Print before, tho' the want of it I am perswaded has been
+partly the occasion of the scarcity of good Drinks, as is at this time
+very evident in most Places in the Nation. I have here also divulg'd the
+Nostrum of the Artist Brewer that he has so long valued himself upon, in
+making a right Judgment when the Worts are boiled to a true Crisis; a
+matter of considerable Consequence, because all strong Worts may be boiled
+too much or too little to the great Loss of the Owner, and without this
+Knowledge a Brewer must go on by Guess; which is a hazard that every one
+ought to be free from that can; and therefore I have endeavor'd to explode
+the old Hour-glass way of Brewing, by reason of the several Uncertainties
+that attend such Methods and the hazard of spoiling both Malt and Drink;
+for in short where a Brewing is perform'd by Ladings over of scalding
+Water, there is no occasion for the Watch or Hour-glass to boil the Wort
+by, which is best known by the Eye, as I have both in this and my second
+Book made appear.
+
+I have here observed that necessary Caution, which is perfectly requisite
+in the Choice of good and the Management of bad Waters; a Matter of high
+Importance, as the Use of this Vehicle is unavoidable in Brewing, and
+therefore requires a strict Inspection into its Nature; and this I have
+been the more particular in, because I am sensible of the great Quantities
+of unwholsome Waters used not only by Necessity, but by a mistaken Choice.
+
+So also I have confuted the old received Opinion lately published by an
+Eminent Hand, that long Mashings are the best Methods in Brewing; an Error
+of dangerous Consequence to all those who brew by Ladings over of the hot
+Water on the Malt.
+
+The great Difficulty and what has hitherto proved an Impediment and
+Discouragement to many from Brewing their own Drinks, I think, I have in
+some measure removed, and made it plainly appear how a Quantity of Malt
+Liquor may be Brewed in a little Room and in the hottest Weather, without
+the least Damage by Foxing or other Taint.
+
+The Benefit of Brewing entire Guile small Beer from fresh Malt, and the
+ill Effects of that made from Goods after strong Beer or Ale; I have here
+exposed, for the sake of the Health and Pleasure of those that may easily
+prove their advantage by drinking of the former and refusing the latter.
+
+By the time the following Treatise is read over and thoroughly considered,
+I doubt not but an ordinary Capacity will be in some degree a better Judge
+of good and bad Malt Liquors as a Drinker, and have such a Knowledge in
+Brewing that formerly he was a stranger to; and therefore I am in great
+Hopes these my Efforts will be one Principal Cause of the reforming our
+Malt Liquors in most Places; and that more private Families than ever will
+come into the delightful and profitable Practice of Brewing their own
+Drinks, and thereby not only save almost half in half of Expence, but
+enjoy such as has passed thro' its regular Digestions, and is truly
+pleasant, fine, strong and healthful.
+
+I Question not but this Book will meet with some Scepticks, who being
+neither prejudiced against the Introduction of new Improvements, or that
+their Interests will be hereby eclipsed in time; To such I say I do not
+write, because I have little hopes to reform a wrong Practice in them by
+Reason and Argument. But those who are above Prejudice may easily judge of
+the great Benefits that will accrue by the following Methods, I have here
+plainly made known, and of those in my Second Book that I have almost
+finished and hope to publish in a little time, wherein I shall set forth
+how to Brew without boiling Water or Wort, and several other Ways that
+will be of considerable Service to the World._
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. I.
+
+
+_Of the Nature of the Barley-Corn, and of the proper Soils and Manures for
+the Improvement thereof_.
+
+
+This Grain is well known to excel all others for making of Malts that
+produce those fine _British_ Liquors, Beer and Ale, which no other Nation
+can equalize; But as this Excellency cannot be obtain'd unless the several
+Ingredients are in a perfect State and Order, and these also attended with
+a right judgment; I shall here endeavour to treat on their several
+particulars, and first of Soils.
+
+This Grain I annually sow in my Fields on diversities of Soils, and
+thereby have brought to my knowledge several differences arising
+therefrom. On our Red Clays this Grain generally comes off reddish at both
+ends, and sometimes all over, with a thick skin and tuff nature, somewhat
+like the Soil it grows in, and therefore not so valuable as that of
+contrary qualities, nor are the black blewish Marly Clays of the Vale much
+better, but Loams are, and Gravels better than them, as all the Chalks are
+better then Gravels; on these two last Soils the Barley acquires a whitish
+Body, a thin skin, a short plump kernel, and a (unreadable) flower,
+which occasions those, fine pale and amber Malts made at _Dunstable_,
+_Tring_ and _Dagnal_ from the Barley that comes off the white and gravelly
+Grounds about those Places; for it is certain there is as much difference
+in Barley as in Wheat or other Grain, from the sort it comes off, as
+appears by the excellent Wheats that grow in the marly vale Earths, Peas
+in Sands, and Barley in Gravels and Chalks, &c. For our Mother Earth, as
+it is destinated to the service of Man in the production of Vegetables, is
+composed of various sorts of Soils for different Seeds to grow therein.
+And since Providence has been pleased to allow Man this great privilege
+for the imployment of his skill and labour to improve the same to his
+advantage; it certainly behoves us to acquaint ourselves with its several
+natures, and how to adapt an agreeable Grain and Manure to their natural
+Soil, as being the very foundation of enjoying good and bad Malts. This is
+obvious by parallel Deductions from Turneps sown on rank clayey loamy
+Grounds, dressed with noxious Dungs that render them bitter, tuff, and
+nauseous, while those that grow on Gravels, Sands and Chalky Loams under
+the assistance of the Fold, or Soot, Lime, Ashes, Hornshavings, &c. are
+sweet (unreadable) and pleasant. 'Tis the same also with salads,
+Asparagus, Cabbages, Garden-beans and all other culinary Ware, that come
+off those rich Grounds glutted with the great quantities of _London_ and
+other rank Dungs which are not near so pure, sweet and wholsome, as those
+produced from Virgin mould and other healthy Earths and Manures.
+
+There is likewise another reason that has brought a disreputation on some
+of the Chiltern-barley, and that is, the too often sowing of one and the
+same piece of Ground, whereby its spirituous, nitrous and sulphureous
+qualities are exhausted and worn out, by the constant attraction of its
+best juices for the nutriment of the Grain: To supply which, great
+quantities of Dungs are often incorporated with such Earths, whereby they
+become impregnated with four, adulterated, unwholsome qualities, that so
+affect the Barley that grows therein, as to render it incapable of making
+such pure and sweet Malts, as that which is sown in the open
+Champaign-fields, whose Earths are constantly rested every third Year
+called the Fallow-season, in order to discharge their crude, phlegmatick
+and sour property, by the several turnings that the Plough gives them part
+of a Winter and one whole Summer, which exposes the rough, clotty loose
+parts of the Ground, and by degrees brings them into a condition of making
+a lodgment of those saline benefits that arise from the Earths, and
+afterwards fall down, and redound so much to the benefit of all Vegetables
+that grow therein, as being the essence and spring of Life to all things
+that have root, and tho' they are first exhaled by the Sun in vapour from
+the Earth as the spirit or breath thereof, yet is it return'd again in
+Snows, Hails, Dews, etc. more than in Rains, by which the surface of the
+Globe is saturated; from whence it reascends in the juices of Vegetables,
+and enters into all those productions as food, and nourishment, which the
+Creation supplies.
+
+Here then may appear the excellency of steeping Seed-barley in a liquor
+lately invented, that impregnates and loads it with Nitre and other Salts
+that are the nearest of all others to the true and original Spirit or Salt
+of the Earth, and therefore in a great measure supplies the want thereof
+both in inclosure and open Field; for even in this last it is sometimes
+very scarce, and in but small quantities, especially after a hot dry
+Summer and mild Winter, when little or no Snows have fell to cover the
+Earth and keep this Spirit in; by which and great Frosts it is often much
+encreased and then shews itself in the warmth of well Waters, that are
+often seen to wreak in the cold Seasons. Now since all Vegetables more or
+less partake of those qualities that the Soil and Manures abound with in
+which they grow; I therefore infer that all Barley so imbibed, improves
+its productions by the ascension of those saline spirituous particles that
+are thus lodged in the Seed when put into the Ground, and are part of the
+nourishment the After-Crop enjoys; and for this reason I doubt not, but
+when time has got the ascendant of prejudice, the whole Nation will come
+into the practice of the invaluable Receipt published in two Books,
+entituled, _Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_, and, _The Practical
+Farmer_; both writ by _William Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ near
+_Hempstead_ in _Hertfordshire_, not only for Barley, but other Grains.
+
+But notwithstanding Barley may grow on a light Soil with a proper Manure;
+and improved by the liquor of this Receipt, yet this Grain may be damaged
+or spoiled by being mown too soon, which may afterwards be discovered by
+its shrivelled and lean body that never will make right good Malt; or if
+it is mown at a proper time, and if it be housed damp, or wettish, it will
+be apt to heat and mow-burn, and then it will never make so good Malt,
+because it will not spire, nor come so regularly on the floor as that
+which was inned dry.
+
+Again, I have known one part of a Barley-crop almost green at Harvest,
+another part ripe, and another part between both, tho' it was all sown at
+once, occasion'd by the several situations of the Seed in the Ground, and
+the succeeding Droughts. The deepest came up strong and was ripe soonest,
+the next succeeded; but the uppermost, for want of Rain and Cover, some of
+it grew not at all, and the rest was green at Harvest. Now these
+irregularities are greatly prevented and cured by the application of the
+ingredients mentioned in the Receipt, which infuses such a moisture into
+the body of the Seed, as with the help of a little Rain and the many Dews,
+makes it spire, take root and grow, when others are ruined for want of the
+assistance of such steeping.
+
+Barley like other Grain will also degenerate, and become rank, lean and
+small bodied, if the same Seed is sown too often in the Soil; 'tis
+therefore that the best Farmers not only change the Seed every time, but
+take due care to have it off a contrary Soil that they sow it in to; this
+makes several in my neighbourhood every Year buy their Barley-seed in the
+Vale of _Ailsbury_, that grew there on the black clayey marly Loams, to
+sow in Chalks, Gravels, &c. Others every second Year will go from hence to
+_Fullham_ and buy the Forward or Rath-ripe Barley that grows there on
+Sandy-ground; both which Methods are great Improvements of this Corn, and
+whether it be for sowing or malting, the plump, weighty and white
+Barley-corn, is in all respects much kinder than the lean flinty Sorts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. II
+
+
+_Of making_ Malts.
+
+
+As I have described the Ground that returns the best Barley, I now come to
+treat of making it into Malt; to do which, the Barley is put into a leaden
+or tyled Cistern that holds five, ten or more Quarters, that is covered
+with water four or six Inches above the Barley to allow for its Swell;
+here it lyes five or six Tides as the Malster calls it, reckoning twelve
+Hours to the Tide, according as the Barley is in body or in dryness; for
+that which comes off Clays, or has been wash'd and damag'd by Rains,
+requires less time than the dryer Grain that was inned well and grew on
+Gravels or Chalks; the smooth plump Corn imbibing the water more kindly,
+when the lean and steely Barley will not so naturally; but to know when it
+is enough, is to take a Corn end-ways between the Fingers and gently crush
+it, and if it is in all parts mellow, and the husk opens or starts a
+little from the body of the Corn, then it is enough: The nicety of this is
+a material Point; for if it is infus'd too much, the sweetness of the Malt
+will be greatly taken off, and yield the less Spirit, and so will cause
+deadness and sourness in Ale or Beer in a short time, for the goodness of
+the Malt contributes much to the preservation of all Ales and Beers. Then
+the water must be drain'd from it very well, and it will come equal and
+better on the floor, which may be done in twelve or sixteen Hours in
+temperate weather, but in cold, near thirty. From the Cistern it is put
+into a square Hutch or Couch, where it must lye thirty Hours for the
+Officer to take his Gage, who allows four Bushels in the Score for the
+Swell in this or the Cistern, then it must be work'd Night and Day in one
+or two Heaps as the weather is cold or hot, and turn'd every four, six or
+eight Hours, the outward part inwards and the bottom upwards, always
+keeping a clear floor that the Corn that lies next to it be not chill'd;
+and as soon as it begins to come or spire, then turn it every three, four
+or five Hours, as was done before according to the temper of the Air,
+which greatly governs this management, and as it comes or works more, so
+must the Heap be spreaded and thinned larger to cool it. Thus it may lye
+and be work'd on the floor in several parallels, two or three Foot thick,
+ten or more Foot broad, and fourteen or more in length to Chip and Spire;
+but not too much nor too soft; and when it is come enough, it is to be
+turned twelve or sixteen times in twenty-four Hours, if the Season is
+warm, as in _March, April_ or _May_; and when it is fixed and the Root
+begins to be dead, then it must be thickned again and carefully kept often
+turned and work'd, that the growing of the Root may not revive, and this
+is better done with the Shoes off than on; and here the Workman's Art and
+Diligence in particular is tryed in keeping the floor clear and turning
+the Malt often, that it neither moulds nor Aker-spires, that is, that the
+Blade does not grow out at the opposite end of the Root; for if it does,
+the flower and strength of the Malt is gone, and nothing left behind but
+the Aker-spire, Husk and Tail: Now when it is at this degree and fit for
+the Kiln, it is often practised to put it into a Heap and let it lye
+twelve Hours before it is turned, to heat and mellow, which will much
+improve the Malt if it is done with moderation, and after that time it
+must be turned every six Hours during twenty four; but if it is
+overheated, it will become like Grease and be spoiled, or at least cause
+the Drink to be unwholsome; when this Operation is over, it then must be
+put on the Kiln to dry four, six or twelve Hours, according to the nature
+of the Malt, for the pale sort requires more leisure and less fire than
+the amber or brown sorts: Three Inches thick was formerly thought a
+sufficient depth for the Malt to lye on the Hair-cloth, but now six is
+often allowed it to a fault; fourteen or sixteen Foot square will dry
+about two Quarters if the Malt lyes four Inches thick, and here it should
+be turned every two, three or four Hours keeping the Hair-cloth clear: The
+time of preparing it from the Cistern to the Kiln is uncertain; according
+to the Season of the Year; in moderate weather three Weeks is often
+sufficient. If the Exciseman takes his Gage on the floor he allows ten in
+the Score, but he sometimes Gages in Cistern, Couch, Floor and Kiln, and
+where he can make most, there he fixes his Charge: When the Malt is dryed,
+it must not cool on the Kiln, but be directly thrown off, not into a Heap,
+but spreaded wide in an airy place, till it is thoroughly cool, then put
+it into a Heap or otherwise dispose of it.
+
+There are several methods used in drying of Malts, as the Iron
+Plate-frame, the Tyle-frame, that are both full of little Holes: The
+Brass-wyred and Iron-wyred Frame, and the Hair-cloth; the Iron and Tyled
+one, were chiefly Invented for drying of brown Malts and saving of Fuel,
+for these when they come to be thorough hot will make the Corns crack and
+jump by the fierceness of their heat, so that they will be roasted or
+scorch'd in a little time, and after they are off the Kiln, to plump the
+body of the Corn and make it take the Eye, some will sprinkle water over
+it that it may meet with the better Market. But if such Malt is not used
+quickly, it will slacken and lose its Spirits to a great degree, and
+perhaps in half a Year or less may be taken by the Whools and spoiled:
+Such hasty dryings or scorchings are also apt to bitter the Malt by
+burning its skin, and therefore these Kilns are not so much used now as
+formerly: The Wyre-frames indeed are something better, yet they are apt to
+scorch the outward part of the Corn, that cannot be got off so soon as the
+Hair-cloth admits of, for these must be swept, when the other is only
+turned at once; however these last three ways are now in much request for
+drying pale and amber Malts, because their fire may be kept with more
+leisure, and the Malt more gradually and truer dyed, but by many the
+Hair-cloth is reckoned the best of all.
+
+Malts are dryed with several sorts of Fuel; as the Coak, Welch-coal,
+Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. But the Coak is reckoned by most to exceed all
+others for making Drink of the finest Flavour and pale Colour, because it
+sends no smoak forth to hurt the Malt with any offensive tang, that Wood,
+Fern and Straw are apt to do in a lesser or greater degree; but there is a
+difference even in what is call'd Coak, the right sort being large
+Pit-coal chark'd or burnt in some measure to a Cinder, till all the Sulphur
+is consumed and evaporated away, which is called Coak, and this when it is
+truly made is the best of all other Fuels; but if there is but one Cinder
+as big as an Egg, that is not thoroughly cured, the smoak of this one is
+capable of doing a little damage, and this happens too often by the
+negligence or avarice of the Coak-maker: There is another sort by some
+wrongly called Coak, and rightly named Culme or Welch-coal, from _Swanzey_
+in _Pembrokeshire_, being of a hard stony substance in small bits
+resembling a shining Coal, and will burn without smoak, and by its
+sulphureous effluvia cast a most excellent whiteness on all the outward
+parts of the grainy body: In _Devonshire_ I have seen their Marble or grey
+Fire-stone burnt into Lime with the strong fire that this Culme makes, and
+both this and the Chark'd Pit-coal affords a most sweet moderate and
+certain fire to all Malt that is dryed by it.
+
+Straw is the next sweetest Fuel, but Wood and Fern worst of all.
+
+Some I have known put a Peck or more of Peas, and malt them with five
+Quarters of Barley, and they'll greatly mellow the Drink, and so will
+Beans; but they won't come so soon, nor mix so conveniently with the Malt,
+as the Pea will.
+
+I knew a Farmer, when he sends five Quarters of Barley to be Malted, puts
+in half a Peck or more of Oats amongst them, to prove he has justice done
+him by the Maker, who is hereby confin'd not to Change his Malt by reason
+others won't like such a mixture.
+
+But there is an abuse sometimes committed by a necessitous Malster, who to
+come by Malt sooner than ordinary, makes use of Barley before it is
+thoroughly sweated in the Mow, and then it never makes right Malt, but
+will be steely and not yield a due quantity of wort, as I knew it once
+done by a Person that thrashed the Barley immediately from the Cart as it
+was brought out of the Field, but they that used its Malt suffered not a
+little, for it was impossible it should be good, because it did not
+thoroughly Chip or Spire on the floor, which caused this sort of Malt,
+when the water was put to it in the Mash-tub, to swell up and absorb the
+Liquor, but not return its due quantity again, as true Malt would, nor was
+the Drink of this Malt ever good in the Barrel, but remain'd a raw insipid
+beer, past the Art of Man to Cure, because this, like Cyder made from
+Apples directly off the Tree, that never sweated out their phlegmatick
+crude juice in the heap, cannot produce a natural Liquor from such
+unnatural management; for barley certainly is not fit to make Malt of
+until it is fully mellowed and sweated in the Mow, and the Season of the
+Year is ready for it, without both which there can be no assurance of good
+Malt: Several instances of this untimely making Malt I have known to
+happen, that has been the occasion of great quantities of bad Ales and
+Beers, for such Malt, retaining none of its Barley nature, or that the
+Season of the Year is not cold enough to admit of its natural working on
+the Floor, is not capable of producing a true Malt, it will cause its
+Drink to stink in the cask instead of growing fit for use, as not having
+its genuine Malt-nature to cure and preserve it, which all good Malts
+contribute to as well as the Hop.
+
+There is another damage I have known accrue to the Buyer of Malt by
+Mellilet, a most stinking Weed that grows amongst some Barley, and is so
+mischievously predominant, as to taint it to a sad degree because its
+black Seed like that of an Onion, being lesser than the Barley, cannot be
+entirely separated, which obliges it to be malted with the Barley, and
+makes the Drink so heady that it is apt to fuddle the unwary by drinking a
+small quantity. This Weed is so natural to some Ground that the Farmer
+despairs of ever extirpating it, and is to be avoided as much as possible,
+because it very much hurts the Drink that is made from Malt mixed with it,
+by its nauseous Scent and Taste, as may be perceived by the Ointment made
+with it that bears its Name: I knew a Victualler that bought a parcel of
+Malt that this weed was amongst, and it spoiled all the Brewings and Sale
+of the Drink, for it's apt to cause Fevers, Colicks and other Distempers
+in the Body.
+
+Darnel is a rampant Weed and grows much amongst some Barley, especially in
+the bad Husbandman's Ground, and most where it is sown with the
+Seed-barley: It does the least harm amongst Malt, because it adds a
+strength to it, and quickly intoxicates, if there is much in it; but where
+there is but little, the Malster regards it not, for the sake of its
+inebriating quality.
+
+There are other Weeds or Seeds that annoy the Barley; but as the Screen,
+Sieve and throwing will take most of them out, there does not require here
+a Detail of their Particulars. Oats malted as Barley is, will make a weak,
+soft, mellow and pleasant Drink, but Wheat when done so, will produce a
+strong heady nourishing well-tasted and fine Liquor, which is now more
+practised then ever.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. III.
+
+
+_To know good from bad_ Malts.
+
+
+This is a Matter of great Importance to all Brewers, both publick and
+private, for 'tis common for the Seller to cry all is good, but the
+Buyer's Case is different; wherefore it is prudential to endeavour to be
+Master of this Knowledge, but I have heard a great Malster that lived
+towards _Ware_, say, he knew a grand Brewer, that wetted near two hundred
+Quarters a Week, was not a judge of good and bad Malts, without which 'tis
+impossible to draw a true length of Ale or Beer. To do this I know but of
+few Ways, _First_, By the Bite; Is to break the Malt Corn across between
+the Teeth, in the middle of it or at both Ends, and if it tasteth mellow
+and sweet, has a round body, breaks soft, is full of flower all its
+length, smells well and has a thin skin, then it is good; _Secondly_, By
+Water; Is to take a Glass near full, and put in some Malt; and if it
+swims, it is right, but if any sinks to the bottom, then it is not true
+Malt, but steely and retains somewhat of its Barley nature; yet I must own
+this is not an infallible Rule, because if a Corn of Malt is crack'd,
+split or broke, it will then take the water and sink, but there may an
+allowance be given for such incidents, and still room enough to make a
+judgment. _Thirdly_, Malt that is truly made will not be hard and steely,
+but of so mellow a Nature, that if forced against a dry Board, will mark
+and cast a white Colour almost like Chalk. _Fourthly_, Malt that is not
+rightly made will be part of it of a hard Barley nature, and weigh heavier
+than that which is true Malt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. IV.
+
+
+ _Of the Nature and Use of Pale, Amber and Brown_ Malts.
+
+
+The pale Malt is the slowest and slackest dryed of any, and where it has
+had a leisure fire, a sufficient time allowed it on the Kiln, and a due
+care taken of it; the flower of the grain will remain in its full
+quantity, and thereby produce a greater length of wort, than the brown
+high dryed Malt, for which reason it is sold for one or two shillings
+_per_ Quarter more than that: This pale Malt is also the most nutritious
+sort to the body of all others, as being in this state the most simple and
+nearest to its Original Barley-corn, that will retain an Alcalous and
+Balsamick quality much longer than the brown sort; the tender drying of
+this Malt bringing its body into so soft a texture of Parts, that most of
+the great Brewers, brew it with Spring and Well-waters, whose hard and
+binding Properties they think agrees best with this loose-bodied Malt,
+either in Ales or Beer's and which will also dispense with hotter waters
+in brewing of it, than the brown Malt can. The amber-colour'd Malt is that
+which is dryed in a medium degree, between the pale and the brown, and is
+very much in use, as being free of either extream. Its colour is pleasant,
+its taste agreeable and its nature wholsome, which makes it be prefer'd
+by many as the best of Malts; this by some is brewed either with hard or
+soft waters, or a mixture of both.
+
+The brown Malt is the soonest and highest dryed of any, even till it is so
+hard, that it's difficult to bite some of its Corns asunder, and is often
+so crusted or burnt, that the farinous part loses a great deal of its
+essential Salts and vital Property, which frequently deceives its ignorant
+Brewer, that hopes to draw as much Drink from a quarter of this, as he
+does from pale or amber sorts: This Malt by some is thought to occasion
+the Gravel and Stone, besides what is commonly called the Heart-burn; and
+is by its steely nature less nourishing than the pale or amber Malts,
+being very much impregnated with the fiery fumiferous Particles of the
+Kiln, and therefore its Drink sooner becomes sharp and acid than that made
+from the pale or amber sorts, if they are all fairly brewed: For this
+reason the _London_ Brewers mostly use the _Thames_ or _New River_ waters
+to brew this Malt with, for the sake of its soft nature, whereby it agrees
+with the harsh qualities of it better than any of the well or other hard
+Sorts, and makes a luscious Ale for a little while, and a But-beer that
+will keep very well five or six Months, but after that time it generally
+grows stale, notwithstanding there be ten or twelve Bushels allowed to the
+Hogshead, and it be hopp'd accordingly.
+
+Pale and amber Malts dryed with Coak or Culm, obtains a more clean bright
+pale Colour than if dryed with any other Fuel, because there is not smoak
+to darken and sully their Skins or Husks, and give them an ill relish,
+that those Malts little or more have, which are dryed with Straw, Wood, or
+Fern, &c. The Coak or _Welch_ Coal also makes more true and compleat Malt,
+as I have before hinted, than any other Fuel, because its fire gives both
+a gentle and certain Heat, whereby the Corns are in all their Parts
+gradually dryed, and therefore of late these Malts have gained such a
+Reputation that great quantities have been consumed in most Parts of the
+Nation for their wholsome Natures and sweet fine Taste: These make such
+fine Ales and But-beers, as has tempted several of our Malsters in my
+Neighbour-hood to burn Coak or Culm at a great expence of Carriage thirty
+Miles from _London_.
+
+Next to the Coak-dryed Malt, the Straw-dryed is the sweetest and best
+tasted: This I must own is sometimes well Malted where the Barley, Wheat,
+Straw, Conveniencies and the Maker's Skill are good; but as the fire of
+the Straw is not so regular as the Coak, the Malt is attended with more
+uncertainty in its making, because it is difficult to keep it to a
+moderate and equal Heat, and also exposes the Malt in some degree to the
+taste of the smoak.
+
+Brown Malts are dryed with Straw, Wood and Fern, &c. the Straw-dryed is
+not the best, but the Wood sort has a most unnatural Taste, that few can
+bear with, but the necessitous, and those that are accustomed to its
+strong smoaky tang; yet is it much used in some of the Western Parts of
+_England_, and many thousand Quarters of this Malt has been formerly used
+in _London_ for brewing the Butt-keeping-beers with, and that because it
+sold for two Shillings _per_ Quarter cheaper than the Straw-dryed Malt,
+nor was this Quality of the Wood-dryed Malt much regarded by some of its
+Brewers, for that its ill Taste is lost in nine or twelve Months, by the
+Age of the Beer, and the strength of the great Quantity of Hops that were
+used in its Preservation.
+
+The Fern-dryed Malt is also attended with a rank disagreeable Taste from
+the smoak of this Vegetable, with which many Quarters of Malt are dryed,
+as appears by the great Quantities annually cut by Malsters on our
+Commons, for the two prevalent Reasons of cheapness and plenty.
+
+At _Bridport_ in _Dorsetshire_, I knew an Inn-keeper use half Pale and
+half Brown Malt for Brewing his Butt-beers, that, proved to my Palate the
+best I ever drank on the Road, which I think may be accounted for, in that
+the Pale being the slackest, and the Brown the hardest dryed, must produce
+a mellow good Drink by the help of a requisite Age, that will reduce those
+extreams to a proper Quality.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. V.
+
+
+_Of the Nature of several Waters and their use in Brewing. And first of
+Well-waters_.
+
+
+Water next to Malt is what by course comes here under Consideration as a
+Matter of great Importance in Brewing of wholsome fine Malt-liquors, and
+is of such Consequence that it concerns every one to know the nature of
+the water he Brews with, because it is the Vehicle by which the nutritious
+and pleasant Particles of the Malt and Hop are conveyed into our Bodies,
+and there becomes a diluter of our Food: Now the more simple and freer
+every water is from foreign Particles, the better it will answer those
+Ends and Purposes; for, as Dr_.Mead_ observes, some waters are so loaded
+with stony Corpuscles, that even the Pipes thro' which they are carried,
+in time are incrusted and stopt up by them, and is of that petrifying
+nature as to breed the Stone in the Bladder, which many of the _Parisians_
+have been instances of, by using this sort of water out of the River
+_Seine_. And of this Nature is another at _Rowel_ in _Northamptonshire_,
+which in no great distance of time so clogs the Wheel of an overshot Mill
+there, that they are forced with, convenient Instruments to cut way for
+its Motion; and what makes it still more evident, is the sight of those
+incrusted Sides of the Tea-kettles, that the hard Well-waters are the
+occasion of, by being often boiled in them: And it is further related by
+the same Doctor, that a Gentlewoman afflicted with frequent returns of
+violent Colick Pains was cured by the Advice of _Van Helmont_, only by
+leaving off drinking Beer brewed with Well-water; It's true, such a fluid
+has a greater force and aptness to extract the tincture out of Malt, than
+is to be had in the more innocent and soft Liquor of Rivers: But for this
+very reason it ought not, unless upon meer necessity, to be made use of;
+this Quality being owing to the mineral Particles and alluminous Salts
+with which it is impregnated. For these waters thus saturated, will by
+their various gravities in circulation, deposit themselves in one part of
+the animal Body or other, which has made some prove the goodness of Water
+by the lightness of its body in the Water Scales, now sold in several of
+the _London_ Shops, in order to avoid the Scorbutick, Colicky,
+Hypochondriack, and other ill Effects of the Clayey and other gross
+Particles of stagnating Well-waters, and the calculous Concretions of
+others; and therefore such waters ought to be mistrusted more than any,
+where they are not pure clear and soft or that don't arise from good
+Chalks or stony Rocks, that are generally allowed to afford the best of
+all the Well sorts.
+
+Spring-waters are in general liable to partake of those minerals thro'
+which they pass, and are salubrious or mischievous accordingly. At
+_Uppingham_ in _Rutland_, their water is said to come off an
+Allum-rock, and so tints their Beer with its saline Quality, that it is
+easily tasted at the first Draught. And at _Dean_ in _Northamptonshire_, I
+have seen the very Stones colour the rusty Iron by the constant running of
+a Spring-water; but that which will Lather with Soap, or such soft water
+that percolates through Chalk, or a Grey Fire-stone, is generally
+accounted best, for Chalks in this respect excell all other Earths, in
+that it administers nothing unwholsome to the perfluent waters, but
+undoubtedly absorps by its drying spungy Quality any ill minerals that may
+accompany the water that runs thro' them. For which reason they throw in,
+great Quantities of Chalk into their Wells at _Ailsbury_ to soften their
+water, which coming off a black Sand-stone, is so hard and sharp that it
+will often turn their Beer sour in a Week's time, so that in its Original
+State it's neither fit to Wash nor Brew with, but so long as the Alcalous
+soft Particles of the Chalk holds good, they put it to both uses.
+
+River-waters are less liable to be loaded with metallick, petrifying,
+saline and other insanous Particles of the Earth, than the Well or Spring
+sorts are, especially at some distance from the Spring-head, because the
+Rain water mixes with and softens it, and are also much cured by the Sun's
+heat and the Air's power, for which reason I have known several so strict,
+that they won't let their Horses drink near the first rise of some of
+them; this I have seen the sad Effects of, and which has obliged me to
+avoid two that run cross a Road in _Bucks_ and _Hertfordshire_: But in
+their runnings they often collect gross Particles from ouzy muddy
+mixtures, particularly near Town, that make the Beer subject to new
+fermentations, and grow foul upon alteration of weather as the _Thames_
+water generlly does; yet is this for its softness much better than the
+hard sort, however both these waters are used by some Brewers as I shall
+hereafter observe; but where a River-water can be had clear in a dry time,
+when no great Rain has lately fell out of Rivulets or Rivers that have a
+Gravelly, Chalky, Sandy or Stone-bottom free from the Disturbance of
+Cattle, &c. and in good Air, as that of _Barkhamstead St. Peters_ in
+_Hertfordshire_ is; it may then justly claim the name of a most excellent
+water for Brewing, and will make a stronger Drink with the same quantity
+of Malt than any of the Well-waters; insomuch that that of the _Thames_
+has been proved to make as strong Beer with seven Bushels of Malt, as
+Well-water with eight; and so are all River-waters in a proportionable
+degree, and where they can be obtain'd clean and pure, Drink may be drawn
+fine in a few Days after Tunning.
+
+Rain-water is very soft, of a most simple and pure nature, and the best
+Diluter of any, especially if received free from Dirt, and the Salt of
+Mortar that often mixes with it as it runs off tyled Roofs; this is very
+agreeable for brewing of Ales that are not to be kept a great while, but
+for Beers that are to remain some time in the Casks, it is not so, well,
+as being apt to putrify the soonest of any.
+
+Pond-waters; this includes all standing waters chiefly from Rain, and are
+good or bad as they happen; for where there is a clean bottom, and the
+water lies undisturbed from the tread of Cattle, or too many Fish, in an
+open sound Air, in a large quantity, and where the Sun has free access; it
+then comes near, if not quite as good as Rain or River-waters, as is that
+of _Blew-pot_ Pond on the high Green at _Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ and
+many others, which are often prefer'd for Brewing, even beyond many of the
+soft Well-waters about them. But where it is in a small quantity, or full
+of Fish (especially the sling Tench) or is so disturbed by Cattle as to
+force up Mud and Filth; it is then the most foul and disagreeable of all
+others: So is it likewise in long dry Seasons when our Pond-waters are so
+low as obliges us to strain it thro' Sieves before we can use it, to take
+out the small red Worms and other Corruptions, that our stagnant waters
+are generally then too full of. The latest and best Doctors have so far
+scrutinized into the prime Cause of our _British_ malady the Scurvy, as to
+affirm its first rise is from our unwholesome stagnating waters, and
+especially those that come off a clayey surface, as there are about
+_Londonderry_ and _Amsterdam_, for that where the waters are worst, there
+this Distemper is most common, so that in their Writings they have put it
+out of all doubt, that most of our complicated symptoms that are rank'd
+under this general Name, if they don't take their beginning from such
+water, do own it to be their chief Cause.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VI.
+
+
+ _Of Grinding_ Malts.
+
+
+As trifling as this Article in Brewing may seem at first it very worthily
+deserves the notice of all concern'd therein, for on this depends much the
+good of our Drink, because if it is ground too small the flower of the
+Malt will be the easier and more freely mix with the water, and then will
+cause the wort to run thick, and therefore the Malt must be only just
+broke in the Mill, to make it emit its Spirit gradually, and incorporate
+its flower with the water in such a manner that first a stout Beer, then
+an Ale, and afterwards a small Beer may be had at one and the same
+Brewing, and the wort run off fine and clear to the last. Many are
+likewise so sagacious as to grind their brown Malt a Fortnight before they
+use it, and keep it in a dry Place from the influence of too moist an Air,
+that it may become mellower by losing in a great measure the fury of its
+harsh fiery Particles, and its steely nature, which this sort of Malt
+acquires on the Kiln; however this as well as many other hard Bodies may
+be reduced by Time and Air into a more soluble, mellow and soft Condition,
+and then it will imbibe the water and give a natural kind tincture more
+freely, by which a greater quantity and stronger Drink may be made, than
+if it was used directly from the Mill, and be much smoother and better
+tasted. But the pale Malt will be fit for use at a Week's end, because the
+leisureness of their drying endows them with a softness from the time they
+are taken off the Kiln to the time they are brewed, and supplies in them
+what Time and Air must do in the brown sorts. This method of grinding Malt
+so long before-hand can't be so conveniently practised by some of the
+great Brewers, because several of them Brew two or three times a Week, but
+now most of them out of good Husbandry grind their Malts into the Tun by
+the help of a long descending wooden Spout, and here they save the Charge
+of emptying or uncasing it out of the Bin (which formerly they used to do
+before this new way was discovered) and also the waste of a great deal of
+the Malt-flower that was lost when carryed in Baskets, whereas now the
+Cover of the Tun presents all that Damage In my common Brewhouse at
+_London_ I ground my Malt between two large Stones by the Horse-mill that
+with one Horse would grind [blank space] quarters an Hour, But in the
+Country I use a steel Hand-mill, that Cost at first forty Shillings;
+which will by the help of only one Man grind six or eight Bushels in an
+Hour, and will last a Family many Years without hardning or cutting: There
+are some old-fashion'd stone Hand-mills in being, that some are Votaries
+for and prefer to the Iron ones, because they alledge that these break the
+Corn's body, when the Iron ones only cut it in two, which occasions the
+Malt so broke by the Stones, to give the water a more easy, free and
+regular Power to extract its Virtue, than the Cut-malt can that is more
+confin'd within its Hull. Notwithstanding the Iron ones are now mostly in
+Use for their great Dispatch and long Duration. In the Country it is
+frequently done by some to throw a Sack of Malt on a Stone or Brick-floor
+as soon as it is ground, and there let it lye, giving it one turn, for a
+Day or two, that the Stones or Bricks may draw out the fiery Quality it
+received from the Kiln, and give the Drink a soft mild Taste.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VII.
+
+
+_Of Brewing in general_.
+
+
+Brewing, like several other Arts is prostituted to the opinionated
+Ignorance of many conceited Pretenders, who if they have but seen or been
+concern'd in but one Brewing, and that only one Bushel of Malt, assume the
+Name of a Brewer and dare venture on several afterwards, as believing it
+no other Task, than more Labour, to Brew a great deal as well as a little;
+from hence it partly is, that we meet with such hodge-podge Ales and
+Beers, as are not only disagreeable in Taste and Foulness, but indeed
+unwholsome to the Body of Man, for as it is often drank thick and voided
+thin, the Feces or gross part must in my Opinion remain behind in some
+degree. Now what the Effects of that may be, I must own I am not Physician
+enough to explain, but shrewdly suspect it may be the Cause of Stones,
+Colicks, Obstructions, and several other Chronical Distempers; for if we
+consider that the sediments of Malt-liquors are the refuse of a corrupted
+Grain, loaded with the igneous acid Particles of the Malt, and then again
+with the corrosive sharp Particles of the Yeast, it must consequently be
+very pernicious to the _British_ human Body especially, which certainly
+suffers much from the animal Salts of the great Quantities of Flesh that
+we Eat more than People of any other Nation whatsoever; and therefore are
+more then ordinarily obligated not to add the scorbutick mucilaginous
+Qualities of such gross unwholsome Particles, that every one makes a
+lodgment of in their Bodies, as the Liquors they drink are more or less
+thick; for in plain Truth, no Malt-liquor can be good without it's fine.
+The late Curious _Simon Harcourt_ Esq; of _Penly_, whom I have had the
+honour to drink some of his famous _October_ with, thought the true Art of
+Brewing of such Importance, that it is said to Cost him near twenty Pounds
+to have an old Days-man taught it by a _Welch_ Brewer, and sure it was
+this very Man exceeded all others in these Parts afterwards in the Brewing
+of that which he called his _October_ Beer. So likewise in _London_ they
+lay such stress on this Art, that many have thought it worth their while
+to give one or two hundred Guineas with an Apprentice: This Consideration
+also made an Ambassador give an extraordinary Encouragement to one of my
+Acquaintance to go over with him, that was a great Master of this Science.
+But notwithstanding all that can be said that relates to this Subject,
+there are so many Incidents attending Malt-liquors, that it has puzled
+several expert Men to account for their difference, though brewed by the
+same Brewer, with the same Malt, Hops and Water, and in the same Month and
+Town, and tapp'd at the same time: The Beer of one being fine, strong and
+well Tasted, while the others have not had any worth drinking, now this
+may be owing to the different Weather in the same Month, that might cause
+an Alteration in the working of the Liquors, or that the Cellar may not be
+so convenient, or that the Water was more disturbed by Winds or Rains, &c.
+But it has been observed that where a Gentleman has imployed one Brewer
+constantly, and uses the same sort of Ingredients, and the Beer kept in
+dry Vaults or Cellars that have two or three Doors; the Drink has been
+generally good. And where such Malt-liquors are kept in Butts, more time
+is required to ripen, meliorate and fine them, than those kept in
+Hogsheads, because the greater quantity must have the longer time; so also
+a greater quantity will preserve itself better than a lesser one, and on
+this account the Butt and Hogshead are the two best sized Casks of all
+others; but all under a Hogshead hold rather too small a quantity to keep
+their Bodies. The Butt is certainly a most noble Cask for this use, as
+being generally set upright, whereby it maintains a large Cover of Yeast,
+that greatly contributes to the keeping in the Spirits of the Beer, admits
+of a most convenient broaching in the middle and its lower part, and by
+its broad level Bottom, gives a better lodgment to the fining and
+preserving Ingredients, than any other Cask whatsoever that lyes in, the
+long Cross-form. Hence it partly is, that the common Butt-beer is at this
+time in greater Reputation than ever in _London_, and the Home-brew'd
+Drinks out of Credit; because the first is better cured in its Brewing, in
+its Quantity, in its Cask, and in its Age; when the latter has been loaded
+with the pernicious Particles of great Quantities of Yeast, of a short
+Age, and kept in small Casks, that confines its Owner, only to Winter
+Brewing and Sale, as not being capable of sustaining the Heat of the
+Weather, for that the acidity of the Yeast brings on a sudden hardness and
+staleness of the Ale, which to preserve in its mild Aley Taste, will not
+admit of any great Quantity of Hops; and this is partly the reason that
+the handful of Salt which the _Plymouth_ Brewers put into their Hogshead,
+hinders their Ale from keeping, as I shall hereafter take notice of.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. VIII.
+
+
+_The_ London _Method of Brewing_.
+
+
+In a great Brewhouse that I was concern'd in, they wetted or used a
+considerable Quantity of Malt in one Week in Brewing Stout-beer, common
+Butt-beer, Ale and small Beer, for which purpose they have River and Well
+Waters, which they take in several degrees of Heat, as the Malt, Goods and
+Grain are in a condition to receive them, and according to the Practice
+there I shall relate the following Particulars, viz.
+
+_For Stout Butt Beer_.
+
+
+This is the strongest Butt-Beer that is Brewed from brown Malt, and often
+sold for forty Shillings the Barrel, or six Pound the Butt out of the
+wholesale Cellars: The Liquor (for it is Sixpence forfeit in the _London_
+Brewhouse if the word Water is named) in the Copper designed for the first
+Mash, has a two Bushel Basket, or more, of the most hully Malt throw'd
+over it, to cover its Top and forward its Boiling; this must be made very
+hot, almost ready to boil, yet not so as to blister, for then it will be
+in too high a Heat; but as an indication of this, the foul part of the
+Liquor will ascend, and the Malt swell up, and then it must be parted,
+look'd into and felt with the Finger or back of the Hand, and if the
+Liquor is clear and can but be just endured, it is then enough, and the
+Stoker must damp his fire as soon as possible by throwing in a good Parcel
+of fresh Coals, and shutting his Iron vent Doors, if there are any;
+immediately on this they let as much cold Liquor or Water run into the
+Copper as will make it all of a Heat, somewhat more than Blood-warm, this
+they Pump over, or let it pass by a Cock into an upright wooden square
+Spout or Trunk, and it directly rises thro' the Holes of a false Bottom
+into the Malt, which is work'd by several Men with Oars for about half an
+Hour, and is called the first and stiff Mash: While this is doing, there
+is more Liquor heating in the Copper that must not be let into the mash
+Tun till it is very sharp, almost ready to boil, with this they Mash
+again, then cover it with several Baskets of Malt, and let it stand an
+Hour before it runs into the Under-back, which when boiled an Hour and a
+half with a good quantity of Hops makes this Stout. The next is Mash'd
+with a cooler Liquor, then a sharper, and the next Blood-warm or quite
+Cold; by which alternate degrees of Heat, a Quantity of small Beer is made
+after the Stout.
+
+
+_For Brewing strong brown Ale called_ Stitch.
+
+
+This is most of it the first running of the Malt, but yet of a longer
+Length than is drawn for the Stout; It has but few Hops boiled in it, and
+is sold for Eight-pence _per_ Gallon at the Brewhouse out of the Tun, and
+is generally made to amend the common brown Ale with, on particular
+Occasions. This Ale I remember was made use of by [Blank space] _Medlicot_
+Esq; in the beginning of a Consumption, and I heard him say, it did him
+very great Service, for he lived many Years afterwards.
+
+
+_For Brewing common brown Ale and Starting Beer_.
+
+
+They take the Liquors from the brown Ale as for the Stout, but draw a
+greater Quantity from the Malt, than for Stout or Stitch, and after the
+fifth and second Mash they Cap the Goods with fresh Malt to keep in the
+Spirit and Boil it an Hour; after this, small Beer is made of the same
+Goods. Thus also the common brown Starting Butt-Beer is Brewed, only
+boiled with more Hops an Hour and a half, and work'd cooler and longer
+than the brown Ale, and a shorter Length drawn from the Malt. But it is
+often practised after the brown Ale, and where a Quantity of small Beer is
+wanted, or that it is to be Brewed better than ordinary, to put so much
+fresh Malt on the Goods as will answer that purpose.
+
+
+_For Brewing Pale and Amber Ales and Beers_.
+
+
+As the brown Malts are Brewed with River, these are Brewed with Well or
+Spring Liquors. The Liquors are by some taken sharper for pale than brown
+Malts, and after the first scalding Liquor is put over, some lower the
+rest by degrees to the last which is quite Cold, for their small Beer; so
+also for Butt-Beers there is no other difference than the addition of more
+Hops, and boiling, and the method of working. But the reasons for Brewing
+pale Malts with Spring or hard Well waters, I have mentioned in my second
+Book of Brewing.
+
+
+_For Brewing Entire Guile Small Beer_.
+
+
+On the first Liquor they throw some hully Malt to shew the break of it,
+and when it is very sharp, they let in some cold Liquor, and run it into
+the Tun milk warm; this is mash'd with thirty or forty pulls of the Oar,
+and let stand till the second Liquor is ready, which must be almost
+scalding hot to the back of the Hand, then run it by the Cock into the
+Tun, mash it up and let it stand an Hour before it is spended off into the
+Under-back: These two pieces of Liquor will make one Copper of the first
+wort, without putting any fresh Malt on the Goods; the next Liquor to be
+Blood-warm, the next sharp, and the next cool or cold; for the general way
+in great Brewhouses is to let a cool Liquor precede a sharp one, because
+it gradually opens the Pores of the Malt and Goods, and prepares the way
+for the hotter Liquor that is to follow.
+
+
+_The several Lengths or Quantities of Drinks that have been made from
+Malt, and their several Prices, as they have been sold at a common
+Brewhouse_.
+
+
+For Stout-Beer, is commonly drawn one Barrel off a quarter of Malt, and
+sold for thirty Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Stitch or strong
+brown Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one and twenty Shillings and
+Fourpence _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For common brown Ale, one Barrel and
+a half or more, at sixteen Shillings _per_ Barrel, that holds thirty two
+Gallons, from the Tun. For Intire small Beer, five or six Barrels off a
+Quarter, at seven or eight Shillings _per_ Barrel from the Tun. For Pale
+and Amber Ale, one Barrel and a Firkin, at one Shilling _per_ Gallon from
+the Tun.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. IX.
+
+
+_The Country or private way of Brewing_.
+
+
+Several Countries have their several Methods of Brewing, as is practised
+in _Wales, Dorchester, Nottingham, Dundle_, and many other Places; but
+evading Particulars, I shall here recommend that which I think is most
+serviceable both in Country and _London_ private Families. And first, I
+shall observe that the great Brewer has some advantages in Brewing more
+than the small one, and yet the latter has some Conveniences which the
+former can't enjoy; for 'tis certain that the great Brewer can make more
+Drink, and draw a greater Length in proportion to his Malt, than a Person
+can from a lesser Quantity, because the greater the Body, the more is its
+united Power in receiving and discharging, and he can Brew with less
+charge and trouble by means of his more convenient Utensils. But then the
+private Brewer is not without his Benefits; for he can have his Malt
+ground at pleasure, his Tubs and moveable Coolers sweeter and better
+clean'd than the great fixed Tuns and Backs, he can skim off his top Yeast
+and leave his bottom Lees behind, which is what the great Brewer can't so
+well do; he can at discretion make additions of cold wort to his too
+forward Ales and Beers, which the great Brewer can't so conveniently do;
+he can Brew how and when he pleases, which the great ones are in some
+measure hindred from. But to come nearer the matter, I will suppose a
+private Family to Brew five Bushels of Malt, whose Copper holds brim-full
+thirty six Gallons or a Barrel: On this water we put half a Peck of Bran
+or Malt when it is something hot, which will much forward it by keep in
+the Steams or Spirit of the water, and when it begins to Boil, if the
+water is foul, skim off the Bran or Malt and give it the Hogs, or else
+lade both water and that into the mash Vat, where it is to remain till the
+steam is near spent, and you can see your Face in it, which will be in
+about a quarter of an Hour in cold weather; then let all but half a Bushel
+of the Malt run very leisurely into it, stirring it all the while with an
+Oar or Paddle, that it may not Ball, and when the Malt is all but just
+mix'd with water it is enough, which I am sensible is different from the
+old way and the general present Practice; but I shall here clear that
+Point. For by not stirring or mashing the Malt into a Pudding Consistence
+or thin Mash, the Body of it lies in a more loose Condition, that will
+easier and sooner admit of a quicker and more true Passage of the
+after-ladings of the several Bowls or Jets of hot water, which must run
+thorough it before the Brewing is ended; by which free percolation the
+water has ready access to all the parts of the broken Malt, so that the
+Brewer is capacitated to Brew quicker or slower, and to make more Ale or
+small Beer; If more Ale, then hot Boiling water must be laded over to
+slow that one Bowl must run almost off before another is put over, which
+will occasion the whole Brewing to last about sixteen Hours, especially
+if the _Dundle_ way is followed, of spending it out of the Tap as small
+as a Straw, and as fine as Sack, and then it will be quickly so in the
+Barrel: Of if less or weaker Ale is to be made and good small Beer, then
+the second Copper of boiling water may be put over expeditiously and
+drawn out with a large and fast steam. After the first stirring of the
+Malt is done, then put over the reserve of half a Bushel of fresh Malt
+to the four Bushels and half that is already in the Tub, which must be
+spread all over it, and also cover the top of the Tub with some Sacks or
+other Cloths to keep in the Steam or Spirit of the Malt; then let it
+stand two or three Hours, at the end of which, put over now and then a
+Bowl of the boiling water in the Copper as is before directed, and so
+continue to do till as much is run off as will almost fill the Copper;
+then in a Canvas or other loose woven Cloth, put in half a Pound of Hops
+and boil them half an Hour, when they must be taken out, and as many
+fresh ones put in their room as is judged proper to boil half an Hour
+more, if for Ale: But if for keeping Beer, half a Pound of fresh ones
+should be put in at every half Hour's end, and Boil an Hour and a half
+briskly: Now while the first Copper of wort is Boiling, there should be
+scalding water leisurely put over the Goods, Bowl by Bowl, and run off,
+that the Copper may be filled again immediately after the first is out,
+and boiled an Hour with near the same quantity of fresh Hops, and in the
+same manner as those in the first Copper of Ale-wort were. The rest for
+small Beer may be all cold water put over the Grains at once, or at
+twice, and Boil'd an Hour each Copper with the Hops that has been boil'd
+before. But here I must observe, that sometimes I have not an
+opportunity to get hot water for making all my second Copper of wort,
+which obliges me then to make use of cold to supply what was wanting.
+Out of five Bushels of Malt, I generally make a Hogshead of Ale with the
+two first Coppers of wort, and a Hogshead of small Beer with the other
+two, but this more or less according to please me, always taking Care to
+let each Copper of wort be strained off thro' a Sieve, and cool in four
+or five Tubs to prevent its foxing. Thus I have brewed many Hogsheads of
+midling Ale that when the Malt is good, has proved strong enough for
+myself and satisfactory to my friends: But for strong keeping Beer, the
+first Copper of wort may be wholly put to that use, and all the rest
+small Beer: Or when the first Copper of wort is intirely made use of for
+strong Beer, the Goods may be help'd with more fresh Malt (according to
+the _London_ Fashion) and water lukewarm put over at first with the
+Bowl, but soon after sharp or boiling water, which may make a Copper of
+good Ale, and small Beer after that. In some Parts of the North, they
+take one or more Cinders red hot and throw some Salt on them to overcome
+the Sulphur of the Coal, and then directly thrust it into the fresh Malt
+or Goods, where it lies till all the water is laded over and the Brewing
+done, for there is only one or two mashings or stirrings at most
+necessary in a Brewing: Others that Brew with Wood will quench one or
+more Brands ends of Ash in a Copper of wort, to mellow the Drink as a
+burnt Toast of Bread does a Pot of Beer; but it is to be observed, that
+this must not be done with Oak, Firr, or any other strong-scented Wood;
+lest it does more harm than good.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+When small Beer is not wanted, and another Brewing is soon to succeed the
+former, then may the last small Beer wort, that has had no Hops boiled in
+it, remain in the Copper all Night, which will prevent its foxing, and be
+ready to boil instead of so much water to put over the next fresh Malt:
+This will greatly contribute to the strengthening, bettering and colouring
+of the next wort, and is commonly used in this manner when Stout or
+_October_ Beer is to be made, not that it is less serviceable if it was
+for Ale, or Intire Guile small Beer; but lest it should taste of the
+Copper by remaining all Night in it, it may be dispersed into Tubs and
+kept a Week or more together if some fresh cold water is daily added to
+it, and may be brewed as I have mentioned, taking particular Care in this
+as well as in the former ways to return two, three, or more Hand-bowls of
+wort into the Mash Tub, that first of all runs off, till it comes
+absolutely fine and clear, and then it may spend away or run off for good:
+Others will reserve this small Beer wort unboiled in Tubs, and keep it
+there a Week in Winter, or two or three Days in Summer, according to
+Conveniency, by putting fresh water every Day to it, and use it instead of
+water for the first Mash, alledging it is better so than boiled, because
+by that it is thickened and will cause the wort to run foul; this may be a
+Benefit to a Victualler that Brews to Sell again, and can't Vent his small
+Beer; because for such small raw wort that is mix'd with any water, there
+is no Excise to be pay'd.
+
+
+_For Brewing Intire Guile Small Beer_.
+
+
+There can be no way better for making good small Beer, than by Brewing it
+from fresh Malt, because in Malt as well as in Hops, and so in all other
+Vegetables, there is a Spirituous and Earthy part, as I shall further
+enlarge on in writing of the Hop; therefore all Drink brewed from Goods or
+Grains after the first or second worts are run off, is not so good and
+wholsome, as that intirely brewed from fresh Malt, nor could any thing but
+Necessity cause me to make use of such Liquor; yet how many thousands are
+there in this Nation that know nothing of the matter, tho' it is of no
+small Importance, and ought to be regarded by all those that value their
+Health and Taste. And here I advertise every one who reads or hears this,
+and is capable of being his own Friend, so far to mind this _Item_ and
+prefer that small Beer which is made entirely from fresh Malt, before any
+other that is brewed after strong Beer or Ale. Now to brew such Guile
+small Beer after the boiling water has stood in the Tub till it is clear,
+put in the Malt leisurely, and mash it that it does not Ball or Clot, then
+throw over some fresh Malt on the Top, and Cloths over that, and let it
+stand two Hours before it is drawn off, the next water may be between hot
+and cold, the next boiling hot, and the next Cold; or if conveniency
+allows not, there may be once scalding water, and all the rest cold
+instead of the last three. Thus I brew my Intire Guile small Beer, by
+putting the first and last worts together, allowing half, or a Pound of
+Hops to a Hogshead and boiling it one Hour, but if the Hops were shifted
+twice in that time, the Drink would plainly discover the benefit.
+Sometimes, when I have been in haste for small Beer, I have put half a
+Bushel of Malt and a few Hops into my Barrel-Copper, and boil'd a Kettle
+gallop as some call it an Hour, and made me a present Drink, till I had
+more leisure to brew better.
+
+
+_A particular way of Brewing strong_ October _Beer_.
+
+
+There was a Man in this Country that brewed for a Gentleman constantly
+after a Very precise Method, and that was, as soon as he had put over all
+his first Copper of water and mash'd it some time, he would directly let
+the Cock run a small stream and presently put some fresh Malt on the
+former, and mash on the while the Cock was spending, which he would put
+again over the Malt, as often as his Pail or Hand-bowl was full, and this
+for an Hour or two together; then he would let it run off intirely, and
+put it over at once, to run off again as small as a Straw. This was for
+his _October_ Beer: Then he would put scalding water over the Goods at
+once, but not mash, and Cap them with more fresh Malt that stood an Hour
+undisturbed before he would draw it off for Ale; the rest was hot water
+put over the Goods and mash'd at twice for small Beer: And it was observed
+that his _October_ Beer was the most famous in the Country, but his Grains
+good for little, for that he had by this method wash'd out all or most of
+their goodness; this Man was a long while in Brewing, and once his Beer
+did not work in the Barrel for a Month in a very hard Frost, yet when the
+weather broke it recovered and fermented well, and afterwards proved very
+good Drink, but he seldom work'd, his Beer less than a Week in the Vat,
+and was never tapp'd under three Years.
+
+This way indeed is attended with extraordinary Labour and Time, by the
+Brewers running off the wort almost continually, and often returning the
+same again into the mash Vat, but then it certainly gives him an
+opportunity of extracting and washing out the goodness of the Malt, more
+than any of the common Methods, by which he is capacitated to make his
+_October_ or _March_ Beer as strong as he pleases. The Fame of _Penly
+October_ Beer is at this time well known not only throughout
+_Hertfordshire_, but several other remote Places, and truly not without
+desert, for in all my Travels I never met with any that excell'd it, for a
+clear amber Colour, a fine relish, and a light warm digestion. But what
+excell'd all was the generosity of its Donor, who for Hospitality in his
+Viands and this _October_ Beer, has left but few of his Fellows. I
+remember his usual Expression to be, You are welcome to a good Batch of my
+_October_, and true it was, that he proved his Words by his Deeds, for not
+only the rich but even the poor Man's Heart was generally made glad, even
+in advance, whenever they had Business at _Penly_, as expecting a
+refreshment of this Cordial Malt Liquor, that often was accompany'd with a
+good Breakfast or Dinner besides, while several others that had greater
+Estates would seem generous by giving a Yeoman Man Neighbour, the
+Mathematical Treat of a look on the Spit, and a standing Drink at the Tap.
+
+
+_Of Brewing Molosses Beer_.
+
+
+Molosses or Treacle has certainly been formerly made too much use of in
+the brewing of Stout Beer, common Butt Beers, brown Ales and small Beer
+when Malts have been dear: But it is now prohibited under the Penalty of
+fifty Pounds for every ten Pounds weight found in any common Brewhouse,
+and as Malts are now about twenty Shillings _per_ Quarter, and like to be
+so by the Blessing of God, and the Assistance of that invaluable excellent
+Liquor for steeping Seed Barley in, published in a late Book intituled,
+_Chiltern and Vale Farming Explained_: There is no great danger of that,
+Imposition being rife again, which in my Opinion was very unwholsome,
+because the Brewer was obliged to put such a large quantity of Treacle
+into his water or small wort to make it strong Beer or Ale, as very
+probably raised a sweating in some degree in the Body of the drinker: Tho'
+in small Beer a lesser quantity will serve; and therefore I have known
+some to brew it in that for their Health's sake, because this does not
+breed the Scurvy like Malt-liquors, and at the same time will keep open
+the Pipes and Passages of the Lungs and Stomach, for which purpose they
+put in nine Pounds weight into a Barrel-Copper of cold water, first mixing
+it well, and boiling it briskly with a quarter of a Pound of Hops or more
+one Hour, so that it may come off twenty seven Gallons.
+
+
+_A Method practiced by a Victualler for Brewing of Ale or_ October _Beer
+from_ Nottingham.
+
+
+His Copper holds twenty four Gallons, and the Mash Tub has room enough for
+four and more Bushels of Malt. The first full Copper of boiling water he
+puts into the Mash Tub, there to lye a quarter of an Hour, till the steam
+is so far spent, that he can see his Face in it, or as soon as the hot
+water is put in, throws a Pail or two of cold water into it, which will
+bring it at once into a temper; then he lets three Bushels of Malt be run
+leisurely into it, and stirred or mash'd all the while, but as little as
+can be, or no more than just to keep the Malt from clotting or balling;
+when that is done, he puts one Bushel of dry Malt on the Top to keep in
+the Vapour or Spirit, and so lets it stand covered two Hours, or till the
+next Copper full of water is boiled hot, which he lades over the Malt or
+Goods three Hand-bowls full at a time, that are to run off at the Cock or
+Tap by a very small stream before more is put on, which again must be
+returned into the Mash Tub till it comes off exceeding fine, for unless
+the wort is clear when it goes into the Copper, there are little hopes it
+will be so in the Barrel, which leisure way obliges him to be sixteen
+Hours in brewing these four Bushels of Malt. Now between the ladings over
+he puts cold water into the Copper to be boiling hot, while the other is
+running off; by this means his Copper is kept up near full, and the Cock
+spending to the end of brewing his Ale or small Beer, of which only twenty
+one Gallons must be saved of the first wort that is reserved in a Tub,
+wherein four Ounces of Hops are put and then it is to be set by. For the
+second wort I will suppose there are twenty Gallons of water in the Copper
+boiling hot, that must be all laded over in the same manner as the former
+was, but no cold water need here be mixed; when half of this is run out
+into a Tub, it must be directly put into the Copper with half of the first
+wort, strain'd thro' the Brewing Sieve as it lies on a small loose wooden
+Frame over the Copper, to keep back those Hops that were first put in to
+preserve it, which is to make the first Copper twenty one Gallons; then
+upon its beginning to boil he puts in a Pound of Hops in one or two Canvas
+or other coarse Linnen Bags, somewhat larger than will just contain the
+Hops, that an allowance may be given for their swell; this he boils away
+very briskly for half an Hour, when he takes the Hops out and continues
+boiling the wort by itself till it breaks into Particles a little ragged,
+and then it is enough and must be dispers'd into the cooling Tubs very
+thin: Then put the remainder of the first and second wort together and
+boil that, the same time, in the same manner, and with the same quantity
+of fresh Hops the first was. The rest of the third or small Beer wort will
+be about fifteen or twenty Gallons more or less, he mixes directly with
+some cold water to keep it free of Excise, and puts it into the Copper as
+the first Liquor to begin a second Brewing of Ale with another four
+Bushels of Malt as he did before, and so on for several Days together if
+necessary; but at last there may be some small Beer made, tho' some will
+make make none, because the Goods or Grains will go the further in feeding
+of Hogs.
+
+
+_Observations on the foregoing Method_.
+
+
+The first Copper of twenty four Gallons of water is but sufficient to wet
+three Bushels of Malt, and by the additions of cold water as the hot is
+expended, it matters not how much the Malt drinks up: Tho' a third part of
+water is generally allowed for that purpose that is never returned.
+
+By the leisure putting over the Bowls of water, the goodness of the Malt
+is the more extracted and washed out, so that more Ale may be this way
+made and less small Beer, than if the wort was drawed out hastily; besides
+the wort has a greater opportunity of coming off finer by a slow stream
+than by a quicker one, which makes this Method excel all others that
+discharge the wort out of the Mash Tub more hastily. Also by the continual
+running of the Cock or Tap, the Goods or Grains are out of danger of
+sowring, which often happens in Summer Brewings, especially when the Cook
+is stopt between the several boilings of the wort, and what has been the
+very Cause of damaging or spoiling many Guiles of Drink.
+
+This Brewer reposes such a Confidence in the Hops to preserve the wort
+from fixing even in the very hottest time in Summer, that he puts all his
+first running into one Tub, till he has an opportunity of boiling it, and
+when Tubs and Room are so scarce that the wort is obliged to be laid thick
+to cool, then the security of some fresh Hops (and not them already boiled
+or soak'd) may be put into it, which may be got out again by letting the
+Drink run thro' the Cullender, and after that a Hair Sieve to keep the
+Seeds of the Hop back as the Drink goes into the Barrel: But this way of
+putting Hops into the cooling Tubs is only meant where there is a perfect
+Necessity, and Tubs and Room enough can't be had to lay the wort thin.
+
+By this Method of Brewing, Ale may be made as strong or as small as is
+thought fit, and so may the small Beer that comes after, and is so
+agreeable that this Brewer makes his Ale and strong keeping _October_
+Beer, all one and the same way, only with this Difference, that the latter
+is stronger and more hopp'd than the former. Where little or no small Beer
+is wanted, there may little or none be Brewed, according to this manner of
+Working, which is no small Conveniency to a little Family that uses more
+strong than small, nor is there any Loss by leaving the Grainy in some
+Heart, where Horse, Cows, Hogs, or Rabbits are kept.
+
+I am very sensible that the Vulgar Error for many Years, has been a
+standard Sign to the ignorant of boiling strong Worts only till they break
+or curdle in the Copper, which sometimes will be in three quarters of an
+Hour, or in an Hour or more, according to the nature of the Malt and
+Water; but from these in some measure I dissent, and also from those that
+boil it two or three Hours, for it is certain the longer worts boil, the
+thicker they are made, because the watry or thin parts evaporate first
+away, and the thicker any Drink is boiled, the longer it requires to lye
+in the Barrel to have its Particles broke, which Age must be then the sole
+cause of, and therefore I have fixed the time and sign to know when the
+wort is truly enough, and that in such, a manner that an ordinary Capacity
+may be a true judge of, which hereafter will prevent prodigious Losses in
+the waste of strong worts that have often been boiled away to greater Loss
+than Profit.
+
+I have here also made known, I think, the true Method of managing the Hop
+in the Copper, which has long wanted adjusting, to prevent the great
+damage that longer boilings of them has been the sole occasion of to the
+spoiling of most of our malt Drinks brewed in this Nation.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. X.
+
+
+_The Nature and Use of the Hop_.
+
+
+This Vegetable has suffered its degradation, and raised its Reputation on
+the most of any other. It formerly being thought an unwholsome Ingredient,
+and till of late a great breeder of the Stone in the Bladder, but now that
+falacious Notion is obviated by Dr_.Quincy_ and others, who have proved
+that Malt Drink much tinctured by the Hop, is less prone to do that
+mischief, than Ale that has fewer boiled in it. Indeed when the Hop in a
+dear time is adulterated with water, in which Aloes, etc. have been
+infused, as was practised it is said about eight Years ago to make the old
+ones recover their bitterness and seem new, then they are to be looked on
+as unwholsome; but the pure new Hop is surely of a healthful Nature,
+composed of a spirituous flowery part, and a phlegmatick terrene part, and
+with the best of the Hops I can either make or mar the Brewing, for if the
+Hops are boiled in strong or small worts beyond their fine and pure
+Nature, the Liquor suffers, and will be tang'd with a noxious taste both
+ungrateful and unwholsome to the Stomach, and if boiled to a very great
+Excess, they will be apt to cause Reachings and disturb a weak
+Constitution. It is for these Reasons that I advise the boiling two
+Parcels of fresh Hops in each Copper of Ale-wort, and if there were three
+for keeping Beer, it would be so much the better for the taste, health of
+Body and longer Preservation of the Beer in a sound smooth Condition. And
+according to this, one of my Neighbours made a Bag like a Pillow-bear of
+the ordinary sixpenny yard Cloth, and boil'd his Hops in it half an Hour,
+then he took them out, and put in another Bag of the like quantity of
+fresh Hops and boiled them half an Hour more, by which means he had an
+opportunity of boiling both Wort and Hops their due time, sav'd himself
+the trouble of draining them thro' a Sieve, and secured the Seeds of the
+Hops at the same time from mixing with the Drink, afterwards he boiled the
+same Bags in his small Beer till he got the goodness of it out, but
+observe that the Bags were made bigger than what would just contain the
+Hops, otherwise it will be difficult to boil out their goodness. It's
+true, that here is a Charge encreased by the Consumption of a greater
+quantity of Hops than usual, but then how greatly will they answer the
+desired end of enjoying fine palated wholsome Drink, that in a cheap time
+will not amount to much if bought at the best Hand; and if we consider
+their after-use and benefit in small Beer, there is not any loss at all in
+their Quantity: But where it can be afforded, the very small Beer would be
+much improved if fresh Hops were also shifted in the boiling of this as
+well as the stronger worts, and then it would be neighbourly Charity to
+give them away to the poorer Person. Hence may appear the Hardship that
+many are under of being necessitated to drink of those Brewers Malt
+Liquors, who out of avarice boil their Hops to the last, that they may not
+lose any of their quintessence: Nay, I have known some of the little
+Victualling Brewers so stupendiously ignorant, that they have thought they
+acted the good Husband, when they have squeezed the Hops after they have
+been boiled to the last in small Beer, to get out all their goodness as
+they vainly imagin'd, which is so reverse to good management, that in my
+Opinion they had much better put some sort of Earth into the Drink, and it
+would prove more pleasant and wholsome. And why the small Beer should be
+in this manner (as I may justly call it) spoiled for want of the trifling
+Charge of a few fresh Hops, I am a little surprized at, since is the most
+general Liquor of Families and therefore as great Care is due to as any in
+its Brewing, to enjoy it in pure and wholsome Order.
+
+After the Wort is cooled and put into the working Vat or Tub, some have
+thrown fresh Hops into it, and worked them with the Yeast, at the same
+time reserving a few Gallons of raw Wort to wash the Yeast thro' a Sieve
+to keep back the Hop. This is a good way when Hops enough have not been
+sufficiently boiled in the Wort, or to preserve it in the Coolers where it
+is laid thick, otherwise I think it needless.
+
+When Hops have been dear, many have used the Seeds of Wormwood, the they
+buy in the London Seed Shops instead of them: Others _Daucus_ or wild
+Carrot Seed, that grows in our common Fields, which many of the poor
+People in this Country gather and dry in their Houses against their
+wanting of them: Others that wholsome Herb _Horehound_, which indeed is a
+fine Bitter and grows on several of our Commons.
+
+But before I conclude this Article, I shall take notice of a Country Bite,
+as I have already done of a _London_ one, and that is, of an Arch Fellow
+that went about to Brew for People, and took his opportunity to save all
+the used Hops that were to be thrown away, these he washed clean, then
+would dry them in the Sun, or by the Fire, and sprinkle the juice of
+_Horehound_ on them, which would give them such a greenish colour and
+bitterish taste, that with the help of the Screw-press he would sell them
+for new Hops.
+
+Hops in themselves are known to be a subtil grateful Bitter, whose
+Particles are Active and Rigid, by which the viscid ramous parts of the
+Malt are much divided, that makes the Drink easy of Digestion in the Body;
+they also keep it from running into such Cohesions as would make it ropy,
+valid and sour, and therefore are not only of great use in boiled, but
+in raw worts to preserve them sound till they can be put into the Copper,
+and afterwards in the Tun while the Drink is working, as I have before
+hinted.
+
+Here then I must observe, that the worser earthy part of the Hop is
+greatly the cause of that rough, harsh unpleasant taste, which accompany
+both Ales and Beers that have the Hops so long boiled in them as to
+tincture their worts with their mischievous Effects; for notwithstanding
+the Malt, be ever so good, the Hops, if boiled too long in them, will be
+so predominant as to cause a nasty bad taste, and therefore I am in hopes
+our Malt Liquors in general will be in great Perfection, when Hops are
+made use of according to my Directions, and also that more Grounds will be
+planted with this most serviceable Vegetable than ever, that their
+Dearness may not be a disencouragement to this excellent Practice.
+
+For I know an Alehouse-keeper and Brewer, who, to save the expence of Hops
+that were then two Shillings _per_ Pound, use but a quartern instead of a
+Pound, the rest he supplied with _Daucus_ Seeds; but to be more
+particular, in a Mug of this Person's Ale I discovered three several
+Impositions. _First_, He underboil'd his Wort to save its Consumption:
+_Secondly_, He boiled this Seed instead of the Hop; and _Thirdly_, He beat
+the Yeast in for some time to encrease the strength of the Drink; and all
+these in such a _Legerdemain_ manner as gull'd and infatuated the ignorant
+Drinker to such a degree as not to suspect the Fraud, and that for these
+three Reasons: _First_, The underboil'd wort being of a more sweet taste
+than ordinary, was esteemed the Produce of a great allowance of Malt.
+_Secondly_, The _Daucus_ Seed encreased their approbation by the fine
+Peach flavour or relish that it gives the Drink; and _Thirdly_, The Yeast
+was not so much as thought of, since they enjoyed a strong heady Liquor.
+These artificial Qualities, and I think I may say unnatural, has been so
+prevalent with the Vulgar, who were his chief Customers, that I have known
+this Victualler have more Trade for such Drink than his Neighours, who had
+much more wholsome at the same time; for the _Daucus_ Seed tho' it is a
+Carminative, and has some other good Properties, yet in the unboil'd Wort
+it is not capable of doing the Office of the Hop, in breaking thro' the
+clammy parts of it; the Hop being full of subtil penetrating Qualities, a
+Strengthener of the Stomach, and makes the Drink agreeble, by opposing
+Obstructions of the _Viscera_, and particularly of the Liver and Kidneys,
+as the Learned maintain, which confutes the old Notion, that Hops are a
+Breeder of the Stone in the Bladder.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XI.
+
+
+_Of Boiling Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Altho' I have said an Hour and a half is requisite for boiling _October_
+Beer, and an Hour for Ales and small Beer; yet it is to be observed, that
+an exact time is not altogether a certain Rule in this Case with some
+Brewers; for when loose Hops are boiled in the wort so long till they all
+sink, their Seeds will arise and fall down again; the wort also will be
+curdled, and broke into small Particles if examin'd in a Hand-bowl, but
+afterwards into larger, as big as great Pins heads, and will appear clean
+and fine at the Top. This is so much a Rule with some, that they regard
+not Time but this Sign to shew when the Wort is boiled enough; and this
+will happen sooner or later according to the Nature of the Barley and its
+being well Malted; for if it comes off Chalks or Gravels, it generally has
+the good Property of breaking or curdling soon; but if of tough Clays,
+then it is longer, which by some Persons is not a little valued, because
+it saves time in boiling, and consequently the Consumption of the Wort.
+
+It is also to be observed, that pale Malt Worts will not break so soon in
+the Copper, as the brown Sorts, but when either of their Worts boil, it
+should be to the purpose, for then they will break sooner and waste less
+than if they are kept Simmering, and will likewise work more kindly in the
+Tun, drink smoother, and keep longer.
+
+Now all Malt Worts may be spoiled by too little or too much boiling; if
+too little, then the Drink will always taste raw, mawkish, and be
+unwholsome in the Stomach, where, instead of helping to dilute and digest
+our Food, it will cause Obstructions, Colicks, Head-achs, and other
+misfortunes; besides, all such underboil'd Drinks are certainly exposed to
+staleness and sowerness, much sooner than those that have had their full
+time in the Copper. And if they are boiled too long, they will then
+thicken (for one may boil a Wort to a Salve) and not come out of the
+Copper fine and in a right Condition, which will cause it never to be
+right clear in the Barrel; an _Item_ sufficient to shew the mistake of all
+those that think to excel in Malt Liquors, by boiling them two or three
+Hours, to the great Confusion of the Wort, and doing more harm than good
+to the Drink.
+
+But to be more particular in those two Extreams, it is my Opinion, as I
+have said before, that no Ale Worts boiled less than an Hour can be good,
+because in an Hour's time they cannot acquire a thickness of Body any ways
+detrimental to them, and in less than an Hour the ramous viscid parts of
+the Ale cannot be sufficiently broke and divided, so as to prevent it
+running into Cohesions, Ropyness and Sowerness, because in Ales there are
+not Hops enough allowed to do this, which good boiling must in a great
+measure supply, or else such Drink I am sure can never be agreeable to the
+Body of Man; for then its cohesive Parts being not thoroughly broke and
+comminuted by time and boiling, remains in a hard texture of Parts, which
+consequently obliges the Stomach to work more than ordinary to digest and
+secrete such parboiled Liquor, that time and fire should have cured
+before: Is not this apparent in half boil'd Meats, or under-bak'd Bread,
+that often causes the Stomach a great fatigue to digest, especially in
+those of a sedentary Life; and if that suffers, 'tis certain the whole
+Body must share in it: How ignorant then are those People, who, in tipling
+of such Liquor, can praise it for excellent good Ale, as I have been an
+eye-witness of, and only because its taste is sweetish, (which is the
+nature of such raw Drinks) as believing it to be the pure Effects of the
+genuine Malt, not perceiving the Landlord's Avarice and Cunning to save
+the Consumption of his Wort by shortness of boiling, tho' to the great
+Prejudice of the Drinker's Health; and because a Liquid does not afford
+such a plain ocular Demonstration, as Meat and Bread does, these deluded
+People are taken into an Approbation of indeed an _Ignis fatuus_, or what
+is not.
+
+To come then to the _Crisis_ of the Matter, both Time and the Curdling or
+Breaking of the Wort should be consulted; for if a Person was to boil the
+Wort an Hour, and then take it out of the Copper, before it was rightly
+broke, it would be wrong management, and the Drink would not be fine nor
+wholsome; and if it should boil an Hour and a half, or two Hours, without
+regarding when its Particles are in a right order, then it may be too
+thick, so that due Care must be had to the two extreams to obtain it its
+due order; therefore in _October_ and keeping Beers, an Hour and a
+quarter's good boiling is commonly sufficient to have a thorough cured
+Drink, for generally in that time it will break and boil enough, and
+because in this there is a double Security by length of boiling, and a
+quantity of Hops shifted; but in the new way there is only a single one,
+and that is by a double or treble allowance of fresh Hops boiled only half
+an Hour in the Wort, and for this Practice a Reason is assigned, that the
+Hops being endowed with discutient apertive Qualities, will by them and
+their great quantity supply the Defect of underboiling the Wort; and that
+a further Conveniency is here enjoyed by having only the fine wholsome
+strong flowery spirituous Parts of the Hop in the Drink, exclusive of the
+phlegmatick nasty earthy Parts which would be extracted if the Hops were
+to be boiled above half an Hour; and therefore there are many now, that
+are so attach'd to this new Method, that they won't brew Ale or _October_
+Beer any other way, vouching it to be a true Tenet, that if Hops are
+boiled above thirty Minutes, the wort will have some or more of their
+worser Quality. The allowance of Hops for Ale or Beer, cannot be exactly
+adjusted without coming to Particulars, because the Proportion should be
+according to the nature and quality of the Malt, the Season of the Year it
+is brew'd in, and the length of time it is to be kept.
+
+For strong brown Ale brew'd in any of the Winter Months, and boiled an
+Hour, one Pound is but barely sufficient for a Hogshead, if it be Tapp'd
+in three Weeks or a Month.
+
+If for pale Ale brewed at that time and for that Age, one Pound and a
+quarter of Hops; but if these Ales are brewed in any of the Summer Months,
+there should be more Hops allowed.
+
+For _October_ or _March_ brown Beer, a Hogshead made from Eleven Bushels
+of Malt, boiled an Hour and a quarter to be kept Nine Months, three Pounds
+and a half ought to be boiled in such Drink at the least.
+
+For _October_ or _March_, pale Beer made from fourteen Bushels, boiled an
+Hour and a quarter, and kept Twelve Months, six Pound ought to be allowed
+to a Hogshead of such Drink, and more if the Hops are shifted in two Bags,
+and less time given the Wort to boil.
+
+Now those that are of Opinion, that their Beer and Ales are greatly
+improved by boiling the Hops only half an Hour in the Wort, I joyn in
+Sentiment with them, as being very sure by repeated Experience it is so;
+but I must here take leave to dissent from those that think that half an
+Hour's boiling the Wort is full enough for making right sound and well
+relished Malt Drinks; however of this I have amply and more particularly
+wrote in my Second Book of Brewing in Chapter IV, where I have plainly
+publish'd the true Sign or Criterion to know when the Wort is boiled just
+enough, and which I intend to publish in a little time.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XII.
+
+
+_Of Foxing or Tainting Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Foxing is a misfortune, or rather a Disease in Malt Drinks, occasioned by
+divers Means, as the Nastiness of the Utensils, putting the Worts too
+thick together in the Backs or Cooler, Brewing too often and soon one
+after another, and sometimes by bad Malts and Waters, and the Liquors
+taken in wrong Heats, being of such pernicious Consequence to the great
+Brewer in particular, that he sometimes cannot recover and bring his
+Matters into a right Order again under a Week or two, and is so hateful to
+him in its very Name, that it is a general Law among them to make all
+Servants that Name the word _Fox_ or _Foxing_, in the Brewhouse to pay
+Sixpence, which obliges them to call it _Reynards_; for when once the
+Drink is Tainted, it may be smelt at some Distance somewhat like a _Fox_;
+It chiefly happens in hot weather, and causes the Beer and Ale so Tainted
+to acquire a fulsome sickish taste, that will if it is receive'd in a
+great degree become Ropy like Treacle, and in some short time turn Sour.
+This I have known so to surprize my small Beer Customers, that they have
+asked the Drayman what was the matter: He to act in his Master's Interest
+tells them a Lye, and says it is the goodness of the Malt that causes that
+sweetish mawkish taste, and then would brag at Home how cleverly he came
+off. I have had it also in the Country more than once, and that by the
+idleness and ignorance of my Servant, who when a Tub has been rinced out
+only with fair Water, has set it by for a clean one but this won't do with
+a careful Master for I oblige him to clean the Tub with a Hand-brush,
+Ashes, or Sand every Brewing, and so that I cannot scrape any Dirt up
+under my Nail. However as the Cure of this Disease has baffled the Efforts
+of many, I have been tempted to endeavour the finding out a Remedy for the
+great Malignity, and shall deliver the best I know on this Score.
+
+And here I shall mention the great Value of the Hop in preventing and
+curing the Fox in Malt Liquors. When the Wort is run into the Tub out of
+the mashing Vat, it is a very good way to throw some Hops directly into it
+before it is put into the Copper, and they will secure it against Sourness
+and Ropyness, that are the two Effects of fox'd Worts or Drinks, and is of
+such Power in this respect, that raw Worts may be kept some time, even, in
+hot weather, before they are boiled, and which is necessary; where there
+is a large Quantity of Malt used to a little Copper; but it is certain
+that the stronger Worts will keep longer with Hops than the smaller Sorts:
+So likewise if a Person has fewer Tubs than is wanting, and he is
+apprehensive his Worts will be Fox'd by too thick lying in the Coolers or
+working Tubs, then it will be a safe way to put some fresh Hops into such
+Tubs and work them with the Yeast as I have before hinted; or in case the
+Drink is already Foxed in the Fat or Tun, new Hops should be put in and
+work'd with it, and they will greatly fetch it again into a right Order;
+but then such Drink should be carefully taken clear off from its gross
+nasty Lee, which being mostly Tainted, would otherwise lye in the Barrel,
+corrupt and make it worse.
+
+Some will sift quick Lime into foxed Drinks while they are working in the
+Tun or Vat, that its Fire and Salts may break the Cohesions of the Beer or
+Ale, and burn away the stench, that the Corruption would always cause; but
+then such Drink should by a Peg at the bottom of the Vat be drawn off as
+fine as possible, and the Dregs left behind.
+
+There are many that do not conceive how their Drinks become Fox'd and
+Tainted for several Brewings together; but I have in Chapter VI, in my
+Second Book, made it appear, that the Taint is chiefly retain'd and lodged
+in the upright wooden Pins that fasten the Planks to the Joists, and how
+scalding Lye is a very efficacious Liquor to extirpate it out of the
+Utensils in a little time if rightly applied; and one other most powerful
+Ingredient that is now used by the greatest Artists for curing of the
+same.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIII
+
+
+_Of fermenting and working of Beers and Ales, and the pernicious Practice
+of Beating in the Yeast detected_.
+
+
+This Subject in my Opinion has, long wanted a Satyrical Pen to shew the
+ill Effects of this unwholsome Method, which I suppose has been much
+discouraged and hindered hitherto, from the general use it has been under
+many Years, especially by the _Northern_ Brewers, who tho' much famed for
+their Knowledge in this Art, and have induced many others by their Example
+in the _Southern_ and other Parts to pursue their Method; yet I shall
+endeavour to prove them culpable of Male-practice, that beat in the Yeast,
+as some of them have done a Week together; and that Custom ought not to
+Authorize an ill Practice. _First_, I shall observe that Yeast is a very
+strong acid, that abounds with subtil spirituous Qualities, whose
+Particles being wrapped up in those that are viscid, are by a mixture with
+them in the Wort, brought into an intestine Motion, occasion'd by
+Particles of different Gravities; for as the spirituous Parts of the Wort
+will be continually striving to get up to the Surface, the glutinous
+adhesive ones of the Yeast will be as constant in retarding their assent,
+and so prevent their Escape; by which the spirituous Particles are set
+loose and free from their viscid Confinements, as may appear by the Froth
+on the Top, and to this end a moderate warmth hastens the Operation, as it
+assists in opening the viscidities in which some spirituous Parts may be
+entangled, and unbends the Spring of the included Air: The viscid Parts
+which are raised to the Top, not only on account of their own lightness,
+but by the continual efforts and occursions of the Spirits to get
+uppermost, shew when the ferment is at the highest, and prevent the finer
+Spirits making their escape; but if this intestine Operation is permitted
+to continue too long, a great deal will get away, and the remaining grow
+flat and vapid, as Dr. _Quincy_ well observes. Now tho' a small quantity
+of Yeast is necessary to break the Band of Corruption in the Wort, yet it
+is in itself of a poisonous Nature, as many other Acids are; for if a
+Plaister of thick Yeast be applied to the Wrist as some have done for an
+Ague, it will there raise little Pustules or Blisters in some degree like
+that Venomous! (As I have just reason in a particular Sense to call it)
+Ingredient _Cantharide_, which is one of the Shop Poisons. Here then I
+shall observe, that I have known several beat the Yeast into the Wort for
+a Week or more together to improve it, or in plainer terms to load the
+Wort with its weighty and strong spirituous Particles; and that for two
+Reasons, _First_, Because it will make the Liquor so heady, that five
+Bushels of Malt may be equal in strength to six, and that by the
+stupifying Narcotick Qualities of the Yeast; which mercenary subtilty and
+imposition has so prevailed to my Knowledge with the Vulgar and Ignorant,
+that it has caused many of them to return the next Day to the same
+Alehouse, as believing they had stronger and better Drink than others: But
+alas, how are such deceived that know no other than that it is the pure
+Product of the Malt, when at the same time they are driving Nails into
+their Coffins, by impregnating their Blood with the corrupt Qualities of
+this poisonous acid, as many of its Drinkers have proved, by suffering
+violent Head-achs, loss of Appetite, and other Inconveniencies the Day
+following, and sometimes longer, after a Debauch of such Liquor; who would
+not perhaps for a great reward swallow a Spoonful of thick Yeast by
+itself, and yet without any concern may receive for ought they know
+several, dissolved in the Vehicle of Ale, and then the corrosive
+Corpuscles of the Yeast being mix'd with the Ale, cannot fail (when
+forsaken in the Canals of the Body of their Vehicle) to do the same
+mischief as they would if taken by themselves undiluted, only with this
+difference, that they may in this Form be carried sometimes further in the
+animal Frame, and so discover their malignity in some of the inmost
+recesses thereof, which also is the very Case of malignant Waters, as a
+most learned Doctor observes.
+
+_Secondly_, They alledge for beating the Yeast into Wort, that it gives it
+a fine tang or relish, or as they call it at _London_, it makes the Ale
+bite of the Yeast; but this flourish indeed is for no other reason than to
+further its Sale, and tho' it may be agreeable to some Bigots, to me it
+proves a discovery of the infection by its nauseous taste; however my
+surprize is lessen'd, when I remember the _Plymouth_ People, who are quite
+the reverse of them at _Dover_ and _Chatham_; for the first are so
+attach'd to their white thick Ale, that many have undone themselves by
+drinking it; nor is their humour much different as to the common Brewers
+brown Ale, who when the Customer wants a Hogshead, they immediately put in
+a Handful of Salt and another of Flower, and so bring it up, this is no
+sooner on the Stilling but often Tapp'd, that it may carry a Froth on the
+Top of the Pot, otherwise they despise it: The Salt commonly answered its
+End of causing the Tiplers to become dryer by the great Quantities they
+drank, that it farther excited by the biting pleasant stimulating quality
+the Salt strikes the Palate with. The Flower also had its seducing share
+by pleasing the Eye and Mouth with its mantling Froth, so that the Sailors
+that are often here in great Numbers used to consume many Hogsheads of
+this common Ale with much delight, as thinking it was intirely the pure
+Product of the Malt.
+
+Their white Ale is a clear Wort made from pale Malt, and fermented with
+what they call ripening, which is a Composition, they say, of the Flower
+of Malt, Yeast and Whites of Eggs, a _Nostrum_ made and sold only by two
+or three in those Parts, but the Wort is brewed and the Ale vended by many
+of the Publicans; which is drank while it is fermenting in Earthen Steens,
+in such a thick manner as resembles butter'd Ale, and sold for Twopence
+Halfpenny the full Quart. It is often prescribed by Physicians to be drank
+by wet Nurses for the encrease of their Milk, and also as a prevalent
+Medicine for the Colick and Gravel. But the _Dover_ and _Chatham_ People
+won't drink their Butt-Beer, unless it is Aged, fine and strong.
+
+
+_Of working and fermenting_ London _Stout Beer and Ale_.
+
+
+In my Brewhouse at _London_, the Yeast at once was put into the Tun to
+work the Stout Beer and Ale with, as not having the Conveniency of doing
+otherwise, by reason the After-worts of small Beer comes into the same
+Backs or Coolers where the strong Worts had just been, by this means, and
+the shortness of time we have to ferment our strong Drinks, we cannot make
+Reserves of cold Worts to mix with and check the too forward working of
+those Liquors, for there we brewed three times a Week throughout the Year,
+as most of the great ones do in _London_, and some others five times. The
+strong Beer brewed for keeping is suffered to be Blood-warm in the Winter
+when the Yeast is put into it, that it may gradually work two Nights and a
+Day at least, for this won't admit of such a hasty Operation as the common
+brown Ale will, because if it is work'd too warm and hasty, such Beer
+won't keep near so long as that fermented cooler. The brown Ale has indeed
+its Yeast put into it in the Evening very warm, because they carry it away
+the very next Morning early to their Customers, who commonly draw it out
+in less than a Week's time. The Pale or Amber Ales are often kept near it,
+not quite a Week under a fermentation, for the better incorporating the
+Yeast with Wort, by beating it in several times for the foregoing Reasons.
+
+
+_Of working or fermenting Drinks brewed by Private Families_.
+
+
+I mean such who Brew only for their own use, whether it be a private
+Family or a Victualler. In this Case be it for Stout Beers, or for any of
+the Ales; the way that is used in _Northamptonshire_, and by good Brewers
+elsewhere; is, to put some Yeast into a small quantity of warm Wort in a
+Hand-bowl, which for a little while swims on the Top, where it works out
+and leisurely mixes with the Wort, that is first quite cold in Summer, and
+almost so in Winter; for the cooler it is work'd the longer it will keep,
+too much Heat agitating the spirituous Particles into too quick a motion,
+whereby they spend themselves too fast, or fly away too soon, and then the
+Drink will certainly work into a blister'd Head that is never natural; but
+when it ferments by moderate degrees into a fine white curl'd Head, its
+Operation is then truly genuine, and plainly shews the right management of
+the Brewer. To one Hogshead of Beer, that is to be kept nine Months, I put
+a Quart of thick Yeast, and ferment it as cool as it will admit of, two
+Days together, in _October_ or _March_, and if I find it works too fast, I
+check it at leisure by stirring in some raw Wort with a Hand-bowl: So
+likewise in our Country Ales we take the very same method, because of
+having them keep some time, and this is so nicely observed by several,
+that I have seen them do the very same by their small Beer Wort; now by
+these several Additions of raw Wort, there are as often new Commotions
+raised in the Beer or Ale, which cannot but contribute to the rarefaction
+and comminution of the whole; but whether it is by these joining
+Principles of the Wort and Yeast, that the Drink is rendered smoother, or
+that the spirituous Parts are more entangled and kept from making their
+Escape, I can't determine; yet sure it is, that such small Liquors
+generally sparkle and knit out of the Barrel as others out of a Bottle,
+and is as pleasant Ale as ever I drank.
+
+Others again for Butt or Stout Beer will, when they find it works up
+towards a thick Yeast, mix it once and beat it in again with the
+Hand-bowl or Jett; and when it has work'd up a second time in such a
+manner, they put it into the Vessel with the Yeast on the Top and the
+Sediments at Bottom, taking particular Care to have some more in a Tub
+near the Cask to fill it up as it works over, and when it has done
+working, leave it with a thick Head of Yeast on to preserve it.
+
+But for Ale that is not to be kept very long, they Hop it accordingly, and
+beat the Yeast in every four or five Hours for two Days successively in
+the warm weather, and four in the Winter till the Yeast begins to work
+heavy and sticks to the hollow part of the Bowl, if turned down on the
+same, then they take all the Yeast off at Top and leave all the Dregs
+behind, putting only up the clear Drink, and when it is a little work'd in
+the Barrel, it will be fine in a few Days and ready for drinking. But
+this, last way of beating in the Yeast too long, I think I have
+sufficiently detected, and hope, as it is how declining, it will never
+revive again, and for which reason I have in my second Book encouraged all
+light fermentations, as the most natural for the Malt Liquor and the human
+Body.
+
+
+_Of forwarding and retarding the fermentation of malt Liquors_.
+
+
+In case Beer or Ale is backward in working, it is often practised to cast
+some Flower out of the Dusting Box, or with the Hand over the Top of the
+Drink, which will become a sort of Crust or Cover to help to keep the Cold
+out: Others will put in one or two Ounces of powder'd Ginger, which will
+so heat the Wort as to bring it forward: Others will take a Gallon Stone
+Bottle and fill it with boiling water, which being well Cork'd, is put
+into the working Tub, where it will communicate a gradual Heat for some
+time and forward the fermentation: Others will reserve some raw Wort,
+which they heat and mix with the rest, but then due Care must be taken
+that the Pot in which it is heated has no manner of Grease about it lest
+it impedes, instead of promoting the working, and for this reason some
+nice Brewers will not suffer a Candle too near the Wort, lest it drop into
+it. But for retarding and keeping back any Drink that is too much heated
+in working, the cold raw Wort, as I have said before, is the most proper
+of any thing to check it with, tho' I have known some to put one or more
+Pewter Dishes into it for that purpose, or it may be broke into several
+other Tubs, where by its shallow lying it will be taken off its Fury.
+Others again, to make Drink work that is backward, will take the whites of
+two Eggs and beat them up with half a Quartern of good Brandy, and put it
+either into the working Vat, or into the Cask, and it will quickly bring
+it forward if a warm Cloth is put over the Bung. Others will tye up Bran
+in a coarse thin Cloth and put it into the Vat, where by its spungy and
+flowery Nature and close Bulk it will absorp a quantity of the Drink, and
+breed a heat to forward its working. I know an Inn-keeper of a great Town
+in _Bucks_ that is so curious as to take off all the top Yeast first, and
+then by a Peg near the bottom of his working Tub, he draws off the Beer or
+Ale, so that the Dreggs are by this means left behind. This I must own is
+very right in Ales that are to be drank soon, but in Beers that are to lye
+nine or twelve Months in a Butt or other Cask, there certainly will be
+wanted some Feces or Sediment for the Beer to feed on, else it must
+consequently grow hungry, sharp and eager; and therefore if its own top
+and bottom are not put into a Cask with the Beer, some other Artificial
+Composition or Lee should supply its Place, that is wholsomer, and will
+better feed with such Drink than its own natural Settlement, and therefore
+I have here inserted several curious Receipts for answering this great
+End.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIV.
+
+
+ _Of an Artificial Lee for Stout or Stale Beer to feed on_.
+
+
+This Article, as it is of very great Importance in the curing of our malt
+Liquors, requires a particular regard to this last management of them,
+because in my Opinion the general misfortune of the Butt or keeping Beers
+drinking so hard and harsh, is partly owing to the nasty foul Feces that
+lye at the bottom of the Cask, compounded of the Sediments of Malt, Hops
+and Yeast, that are, all Clogg'd with gross rigid Salts, which by their
+long lying in the Butt or other Vessel, so tinctures the Beer as to make
+it partake of all their raw Natures: For such is the Feed, such is the
+Body, as may be perceived by Eels taken out of dirty Bottoms, that are
+sure to have a muddy taste, when the Silver sort that are catched in
+Gravelly or Sandy clear Rivers Eat sweet and fine: Nor can this ill
+property be a little in those Starting (as they call it in _London_) new
+thick Beers that were carry'd directly from my Brewhouse, and by a Leather
+Pipe or Spout conveyed into the Butt as they stood in the Cellar, which I
+shall further demonstrate by the Example of whole Wheat, that is, by many
+put into such Beer to feed and preserve it, as being reckoned a
+substantial Alcali; however it has been proved that such Wheat in about
+three Years time has eat into the very Wood of the Cask, and there
+Hony-comb'd it by making little hollow Cavities in the Staves. Others
+there are that will hang a Bag of Wheat in the Vessel that it mayn't
+touch the Bottom, but in both Cases the Wheat is discovered to absorp and
+collect the saline acid qualities of the Beer, Yeast and Hop, by which
+it is impregnated with their sharp qualities, as a Toast of Bread is put
+into Punch or Beer, whose alcalous hollow Nature will attract and make a
+Lodgment of the acid strong Particles in either, as is proved by eating
+the inebriating Toast, and therefore the _Frenchman_ says, the _English_
+are right in putting a Toast into the Liquor, but are Fools for eating it:
+Hence it is that such whole Wheat is loaded with the qualities of the
+unwholsome Settlements or Grounds of the Beer, and becomes of such a
+corroding Nature, as to do this mischief; and for that reason, some in the
+_North_ will hang a Bag of the Flower of malted Oats, Wheat, Pease and
+Beans in the Vessels of Beer, as being a lighter and mellower Body than
+whole Wheat or its Flower, and more natural to the Liquor: But whether it
+be raw Wheat or Malted, it is supposed, after this receptacle has emitted
+its alcalous Properties to the Beer, and taken in all it can of the acid
+qualities thereof, that such Beer will by length of Age prey upon that
+again, and so communicate its pernicious Effects to the Body of Man, as
+Experience seems to justify by the many sad Examples that I have seen in
+the Destruction of several lusty Brewers Servants, who formerly scorn'd
+what they then called Flux Ale, to the preference of such corroding
+consuming Stale Beers; and therefore I have hereafter advised that such
+Butt or keeping Beers be Tapp'd at nine or twelve Months end at furthest,
+and then an Artificial Lee will have a due time allowed it to do good and
+not harm.
+
+
+_An Excellent Composition for feeding Butts or keeping Beers with_.
+
+
+Take a Quart of _French_ Brandy, or as much of _English_, that is free
+from any burnt Tang, or other ill taste, and is full Proof, to this put as
+much Wheat or Flower as will knead it into a Dough, put it in long pieces
+into the Bung Hole, as soon as the Beer has done working, or afterwards,
+and let it gently fall piece by piece to the bottom of the Butt, this will
+maintain the Drink in a mellow freshness, keep staleness off for some
+time, and cause it to be the stronger as it grows Aged.
+
+
+ANOTHER.
+
+
+Take one Pound of Treacle or Honey, one Pound of the Powder of dryed
+Oyster-shells or fat Chalk, mix them well and put it into a Butt, as soon
+as it has done working or some time after, and Bung it well, this will
+both fine and preserve the Beer in a soft, smooth Condition for a great
+while.
+
+
+ANOTHER.
+
+
+Take a Peck of Egg-shells and dry them in an Oven, break and mix them with
+two Pound of fat Chalk, and mix them with water wherein four Pounds of
+coarse Sugar has been boiled, and put it into the Butt as aforesaid.
+
+
+_To fine and preserve Beers and Ales by boiling an Ingredient in the
+Wort_.
+
+
+This most valuable way I frequently follow both for Ale, Butt-beer and
+Small Beer, and that is, in each Barrel Copper of Wort, I put in a Pottle,
+or two Quarts of whole Wheat as soon as I can, that it may soak before it
+boils, then I strain it thro' a Sieve, when I put the Wort in cooling
+Tubs, and if it is thought fit the same Wheat may be boiled in a second
+Copper: Thus there will be extracted a gluey Consistence, which being
+incorporated with the Wort by boiling, gives it a more thick and ponderous
+Body, and when in the Cask, soon makes a Sediment or Lee, as the Wort is
+more or less loaded with the weighty Particles of this fizy Body; but if
+such Wheat was first parched or baked in an Oven, it would do better, as
+being rather too raw as it comes from the Ear.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+A Woman, who lived at _Leighton Buzzard_ in _Bedfordshire_, and had the
+best Ale in the Town, once told a Gentleman, she had Drink just done
+working in the Barrel, and before it was Bung'd would wager it was fine
+enough to Drink out of a Glass, in which it should maintain a little while
+a high Froth; and it was true, for the Ivory shavings that she boiled in
+her Wort, was the Cause of it, which an Acquaintance of mine accidentally
+had a View of as they lay spread over the Wort in the Copper; so will
+Hartshorn shavings do the same and better, both of them being great finers
+and preservers of malt Liquors against staleness and sourness, and are
+certainly of a very alcalous Nature. Or if they are put into a Cask when
+you Bung it down, it will be of service for that purpose; but these are
+dear in Comparison of the whole Wheat, which will in a great measure
+supply their Place, and after it is used, may be given to a poor Body, or
+to the Hog.
+
+
+_To stop the Fret in Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Take a Quart of Black Cherry Brandy, and pour it in at the Bung-hole of
+the Hogshead and stop it close.
+
+
+_To recover deadish Beer_.
+
+
+When strong Drink grows flat, by the loss of its Spirits, take four or
+five Gallons out of a Hogshead, and boil it with five Pound of Honey, skim
+it, and when cold, put it to the rest, and stop it up close: This will
+make it pleasant, quick and strong.
+
+
+ _To make stale Beer drink new_.
+
+
+Take the Herb _Horehound_ stamp it and strain it, then put a Spoonful of
+the juice (which is an extream good Pectoral) to a pitcher-full of Beer,
+let it stand covered about two Hours and drink it.
+
+
+ _To fine Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Take a pint of water, half an Ounce of unslack'd Lime, mix them well
+together, let it stand three Hours and the Lime will settle to the Bottom,
+and the water be as clear as Glass, pour the water from the Sediment, and
+put it into your Ale or Beer, mix it with half an Ounce of Ising-glass
+first cut small and boiled, and in five Hours time or less the Beer in the
+Barrel will settle and clear.
+
+There are several other Compositions that may be used for this purpose,
+but none that I ever heard of will answer like those most Excellent Balls
+that Mr. _Ellis_ of _Little Gaddesden_ in _Hertfordshire_ has found out by
+his own Experience to be very great Refiners, Preservers and Relishers
+of Malt Liquors and Cyders, and will also recover damag'd Drinks, as I
+have mentioned in my Second Book, where I have given a further Account of
+some other things that will fine, colour and improve Malt Drinks: The
+Balls are sold at [missing text]
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XV.
+
+
+_Of several pernicious Ingredients put into Malt Liquors to encrease their
+Strength_.
+
+
+Malt Liquors, as well as several others, have long lain under the
+disreputation of being adulterated and greatly abused by avaricious and
+ill-principled People, to augment their Profits at the Expence of the
+precious Health of human Bodies, which, tho' the greatest Jewel in Life,
+is said to be too often lost by the Deceit of the Brewer, and the
+Intemperance of the Drinker: This undoubtedly was one, and I believe the
+greatest, of the Lord _Bacon's_ Reasons for saying, he thought not one
+_Englishman_ in a thousand died a natural Death. Nor is it indeed to be
+much wondered at, when, according to Report, several of the Publicans make
+it their Business to study and practise this Art, witness what I am afraid
+is too true, that some have made use of the _Coculus India_ Berry for
+making Drink heady, and saving the Expence of Malt; but as this is a
+violent Potion by its narcotick stupifying Quality, if taken in too large
+a degree, I hope this will be rather a prevention of its use than an
+invitation, it being so much of the nature of the deadly Nightshade, that
+it bears the same Character; and I am sure the latter is bad enough; for
+one of my Neighbour's Brothers was killed by eating its Berries that grow
+in some of our Hedges, and so neatly resembles the black Cherry, that the
+Boy took the wrong for the right.
+
+There is another sinister Practice said to be frequently used by ill
+Persons to supply the full quantity of Malt, and that is _Coriander_
+Seeds: This also is of a heady nature boiled in the Wort, one Pound of
+which will answer to a Bushel of Malt, as was ingenuously confess'd to me
+by a Gardener, who own'd he sold a great deal of it to Alehouse Brewers
+(for I don't suppose the great Brewer would be concern'd in any such
+Affair) for that purpose, purpose, at Ten-pence per Pound; but how
+wretchedly ignorant are those that make use of it, not knowing the way
+first to cure and prepare it for this and other mixtures, without which it
+is a dangerous thing, and will cause Sickness in the Drinkers of it.
+Others are said to make use of Lime-stones to fine and preserve the Drink;
+but to come off the fairest in such foul Artifices, it has been too much a
+general Practice to beat the Yeast so long into the Ale, that without
+doubt it has done great Prejudice to the Healths of many others besides
+the Person I have writ of in the Preface of my Second Book. For the sake
+then of Seller and Buyer, I have here offered several valuable Receipts
+for fining, preserving and mellowing Beers and Ales, in such a true
+healthful and beneficial manner, that from henceforth after the Perusal of
+this Book, and the knowledge of their worth are fully known, no Person, I
+hope, will be so sordidly obstinate as to have any thing to do with such
+unwholsome Ingredients; because these are not only of the cheapest sort,
+but will answer their End and Purpose; and the rather, since Malts are now
+only twenty Shillings per Quarter, and like to hold a low Price for
+Reasons that I could here assign.
+
+I own, I formerly thought they were too valuable to expose to the Publick
+by reason of their Cheapness and great Virtues, as being most of them
+wholsomer than the Malt itself, which is but a corrupted Grain. But, as I
+hope they will do considerable Service in the World towards having clear
+salubrious and pleasant Malt Liquors in most private Families and
+Alehouses, I have my Satisfaction.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVI.
+
+
+_Of the Cellar or Repository for keeping Beers and Ales_.
+
+
+It's certain by long Experience, that the Weather or Air has not only a
+Power or Influence in Brewings; but also after the Drink is in the Barrel,
+Hogshead or Butt, in Cellars or other Places, which is often the cause of
+forwarding or retarding the fineness of Malt Liquors; for if we brew in
+cold Weather, and the Drink is to stand in a Cellar of Clay, or where
+Springs rise, or Waters lye or pass through, such a Place by consequence
+will check the due working of the Drink, chill, flat, deaden and hinder it
+from becoming fine. So likewise if Beer or Ale is brewed in hot Weather
+and put into Chalky, Gravelly or Sandy Cellars, and especially if the
+Windows open to the South, South-East, or South-West, then it is very
+likely it will not keep long, but be muddy and stale: Therefore, to keep
+Beer in such a Cellar, it should be brewed in _October_, that the Drink
+may have time to cure itself before the hot Weather comes on; but in
+wettish or damp Cellars, 'tis best to Brew in _March_, that the Drink may
+have time to fine and settle before the Winter Weather is advanced. Now
+such Cellar Extremities should, if it could be done, be brought into a
+temperate State, for which purpose some have been so curious as to have
+double or treble Doors to their Cellar to keep the Air out, and then
+carefully shut the outward, before they enter the inward one, whereby it
+will be more secure from aerial Alterations; for in Cellars and Places,
+that are most exposed to such Seasons, Malt Liquors are frequently
+disturb'd and made unfit for a nice Drinker; therefore if a Cellar is kept
+dry and these Doors to it, it is reckoned warm in Winter and cool in
+Summer, but the best of Cellars are thought to be those in Chalks, Gravels
+or Sands, and particularly in Chalks, which are of a drying quality more
+than any other, and consequently dissipates Damps the most of all Earths,
+which makes it contribute much to the good keeping of the Drink; for all
+damp Cellars are prejudicial to the Preservation of Beers and Ales, and
+sooner bring on the rotting of the Casks and Hoops than the dry ones;
+Insomuch that in a chalky Cellar near me, their Ashen broad Hoops have
+lasted above thirty Years. Besides, in such inclosed Cellars and temperate
+Air, the Beers and Ales ripen more kindly, are better digested and
+softned, and drink smoother: But when the Air is in a disproportion by the
+Cellars letting in Heats and Colds, the Drink will grow Stale and be
+disturbed, sooner than when the Air is kept out. From hence it is, that in
+some Places their Malt Liquors are exceeding good, because they brew with
+Pale or Amber Malts, Chalky Water, and keep their Drinks in close Vaults
+or proper dry Cellars, which is of such Importance, that notwithstanding
+any Malt Liquor may be truly brewed, yet it may be spoiled in a bad Cellar
+that may cause such alternate Fermentations as to make it thick and sour,
+tho' it sometimes happens that after such Changes it fines itself again;
+and to prevent these Commotions of the Beer, some brew their pale Malt in
+_March_ and their brown in _October_, for that the pale Malt, having not
+so many fiery Particles in it as the brown, stands more in need of the
+Summer's Weather to ripen it, while the brown sort being more hard and dry
+is better able to defend itself against the Winter Colds that will help to
+smooth its harsh Particles; yet when they happen to be too violent,
+Horse-dung should be laid to the Windows as a Fortification against them;
+but if there were no Lights at all to a Cellar, it would be better.
+
+Some are of Opinion, that _October_ is the best of all other Months to
+brew any sort of Malt in, by reason there are so many cold Months directly
+follow, that will digest the Drink and make it much excel that Brewed in
+_March_ because such Beer will not want that Care and Watching, as that
+brewed in _March_ absolutely requires, by often taking out and putting in
+the Vent-peg on Change of Weather; and if it is always left out, then it
+deadens and palls the Drink; yet if due Care is not taken in this respect,
+a Thunder or Stormy Night may marr all, by making the Drink ferment and
+burst the Cask; for which Reason, as Iron Hoops are most in Fashion at
+this time, they are certainly the greatest Security to the safety of the
+Drink thus exposed; and next to them is the Chesnut Hoop; both which will
+endure a shorter or longer time as the Cellar is more or less dry, and the
+Management attending them. The Iron Hoop generally begins to rust first at
+the Edges, and therefore should be rubbed off when opportunity offers, and
+be both kept from wet as much as possible; for 'tis Rust that eats the
+Iron Hoop in two sometimes in ten or twelve Years, when the Ashen and
+Chesnut in dry Cellars have lasted three times as long.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVII.
+
+
+_Of Cleaning and Sweetening of Casks_.
+
+
+In Case your Cask is a Butt, then with cold Water first rince out the Lees
+clean, and have ready, boiling or very hot Water, which put in, and with a
+long Stale and a little Birch fastened to its End, scrub the Bottom as
+well as you can. At the same time let there be provided another shorter
+Broom of about a Foot and a half long, that with one Hand may be so
+imployed in the upper and other Parts as to clean the Cask well: So in a
+Hogshead or other smaller Vessel, the one-handed short Broom may be used
+with Water, or with Water, Sand or Ashes, and be effectually cleaned; the
+outside of the Cask about the Bung-hole should be well washed, lest the
+Yeast, as it works over, carries some of its Filth with it.
+
+But to sweeten a Barrel, Kilderkin, Firkin or Pin in the great Brewhouses,
+they put them over the Copper Hole for a Night together, that the Steam of
+the boiling Water or Wort may penetrate into the Wood; this Way is such a
+furious Searcher, that unless the Cask is new hooped just before, it will
+be apt to fall in pieces.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a Pottle, or more, of Stone Lime, and put it into the Cask; on this
+pour some Water and stop it up directly, shaking it well about.
+
+
+_Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a long Linnen Rag and dip it in melted Brimstone, light it at the
+end, and let it hang pendant with the upper part of the Rag fastened to
+the wooden Bung; this is a most quick sure Way, and will not only sweeten,
+but help to fine the Drink.
+
+
+ _Another_.
+
+
+Or to make your Cask more pleasant, you may use the Vintners Way thus:
+Take four Ounces of Stone Brimstone, one Ounce of burnt Alum, and two
+Ounces of Brandy; melt all these in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, and dip
+therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon the Powders
+of Nutmegs, Cloves, Coriander and Anise-seeds: This Canvas set on fire,
+and let it burn hanging in the Cask fastened at the end with the wooden
+Bung, so that no Smoke comes out.
+
+
+ _For a Musty Cask_.
+
+
+Boil some Pepper in water and fill the Cask with it scalding hot.
+
+
+ _For a very stinking Vessel_.
+
+
+The last Remedy is the Coopers taking out one of the Heads of the Cask to
+scrape the inside, or new-shave the Staves, and is the surest way of all
+others, if it is fired afterwards within-side a small matter, as the
+Cooper knows how.
+
+These several Methods may be made use of at Discretion, and will be of
+great Service where they are wanted. The sooner also a Remedy is applied,
+the better; else the Taint commonly encreases, as many have to their
+prejudice proved, who have made use of such Casks, in hopes the next Beer
+will overcome it; but when once a Cask is infected, it will be a long
+while, if ever, before it becomes sweet, if no Art is used. Many therefore
+of the careful sort, in case they han't a Convenience to fill their Vessel
+as soon as it is empty, will stop it close, to prevent the Air and
+preserve the Lees sound, which will greatly tend to the keeping of the
+Cask pure and sweet against the next Occasion.
+
+ _To prepare a new Vessel to keep Malt Liquors in_.
+
+A new Vessel is most improperly used by some ignorant People for strong
+Drink after only once or twice scalding with Water, which is so wrong,
+that such Beer or Ale will not fail of tasting thereof for half, if not a
+whole Year afterwards; such is the Tang of the Oak and its Bark, as may be
+observed from the strong Scents of Tan-Yards, which the Bark is one cause
+of. To prevent then this Inconvenience, when your Brewing is over put up
+some Water scalding hot, and let it run throu' the Grains, then boil it
+and fill up the Cask, stop it well and let it stand till it is cold, do
+this twice, then take the Grounds of strong Drink and boil in it green
+Wallnut Leaves and new Hay or Wheat Straw, and put all into the Cask, that
+it be full and stop it close. After this, use it for small Beer half a
+Year together, and then it will be thoroughly sweet and fit for strong
+Drinks; or
+
+
+ _Another Way_.
+
+
+Take a new Cask and dig a Hole in the Ground, in which it may lye half
+depth with the Bung downwards; let it remain a Week, and it will greatly
+help this or any stinking musty Cask. But besides these, I have writ of
+two other excellent Ways to sweeten musty or stinking Casks, in my Second
+Book of Brewing.
+
+
+_Wine Casks_.
+
+
+These, in my Opinion, are the cheapest of all others to furnish a Person
+readily with, as being many of them good Casks for Malt Liquors, because
+the Sack and White-Wine sorts are already season'd to Hand, and will
+greatly improve Beers and Ales that are put in them: But beware of the
+Rhenish Wine Cask for strong Drinks; for its Wood is so tinctured with
+this sharp Wine, that it will hardly ever be free of it, and therefore
+such Cask is best used for Small Beer: The Claret Cask will a great deal
+sooner be brought into a serviceable State for holding strong Drink, if it
+is two or three times scalded with Grounds of Barrels, and afterwards used
+for small Beer for some time. I have bought a Butt or Pipe for eight
+Shillings in _London_ with some Iron Hoops on it, a good Hogshead for the
+same, and the half Hogshead for five Shillings, the Carriage for a Butt by
+the Waggon thirty Miles is two Shillings and Sixpence, and the Hogshead
+Eighteen-pence: But, to cure a Claret Cask of its Colour and Taste, put a
+Peck of Stone-Lime into a Hogshead, and pour upon it three Pails of Water;
+bung immediately with a Wood-or Cork Bung, and shake it well about a
+quarter of an Hour, and let it stand a Day and Night and it will bring off
+the red Colour, and alter the Taste of the Cask very much. But of three
+several other excellent Methods for curing musty, stinking, new and other
+tainted Casks, I have writ of in my Account of Casks in my Second Book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XVIII.
+
+
+_Of Bunging Casks and Carrying of Malt Liquors to some distance_.
+
+
+I am sure this is of no small Consequence, however it may be esteemed as a
+light matter by some; for if this is not duly perform'd, all our Charge,
+Labour and Care will be lost; and therefore here I shall dissent from my
+_London_ Fashion, where I bung'd up my Ale with Pots of Clay only, or with
+Clay mix'd with Bay Salt, which is the better of the two, because this
+Salt will keep the Clay moist longer than in its Original State; and the
+Butt Beers and fine Ales were Bung'd with Cork drove in with a piece of
+Hop-Sack or Rag, which I think are all insipid, and the occasion of
+spoiling great Quantities of Drink, especially the small Beers; for when
+the Clay is dry, which is soon in Summer, there cannot be a regular Vent
+thro' it, and then the Drink from that time flattens and stales to the
+great loss in a Year to some Owners, and the Benefit of the Brewer; for
+then a fresh Cask must be Tapp'd to supply it, and the remaining part of
+the other throw'd away. Now, to prevent this great Inconvenience, my
+Bung-holes are not quite of the largest size of all, and yet big enough
+for the common wooden Iron Hoop'd Funnel used in some Brew-houses: In this
+I put in a turned piece of Ash or Sallow three Inches broad at Top, and
+two Inches and a half long, first putting in a double piece of dry brown
+Paper, that is so broad that an Inch or more may be out of it, after the
+wooden Bung is drove down with a Hammer pretty tight; this Paper must be
+furl'd or twisted round the Bung, and another loose piece upon and around
+that, with a little Yeast, and a small Peg put into the Bung, which is to
+be raised at Discretion when the Beer is drawing, or at other times to
+give it Vent if there should be occasion: Others will put some Coal or
+Wood Ashes wetted round this Bung, which will bind very hard, and prevent
+any Air getting into or out of the Cask; but this in time is apt to rot,
+and wear the Bung-hole by the Salt or Sulphur in the Ashes, and employing
+a Knife to scrape it afterwards. Yet, for keeping Beers, it's the best
+Security of all other ways whatsoever.
+
+There is also a late Invention practised by a common Brewer in the Country
+that I am acquainted with, for the safe Carriage of Drink on Drays, to
+some distance without losing any of it, and that is in the Top Center of
+one of these Bungs, he puts in a wooden Funnel, whose Spout is about four
+Inches long, and less than half an Inch Diameter at Bottom; this is turned
+at Top into a concave Fashion like a hollow round Bowl, that will hold
+about a Pint, which is a constant Vent to the Cask, and yet hinders the
+Liquor from ascending no faster than the Bowl can receive, and return it
+again into the Barrel: I may say further, he has brought a Barrel two
+Miles, and it was then full, when it arrived at his Customers, because the
+Pint that was put into the Funnel, at setting out, was not at all lost
+when he took it off the Dray; this may be also made of Tin; and will serve
+from the Butt to the small Cask.
+
+In the Butt there is a Cork-hole made about two Inches below the upper
+Head, and close under that a piece of Leather is nailed Spout-fashion,
+that jetts three Inches out, from which the Yeast works and falls into a
+Tub, and when the working is over the Cork is put closely in, for the Bung
+in the Head of the upright Cask is put in as soon as it is filled up with
+new Drink: Now when such a Cask is to be broach'd and a quick Draught is
+to follow, then it may be tapp'd at Bottom; but if otherwise, the Brass
+Cock ought to be first put in at the middle, and before the Drink sinks to
+that it should be Tapp'd at Bottom to prevent the breaking of the Head of
+Yeast, and its growing stale, flat and sour.
+
+In some Places in the Country when they brew Ale or Beer to send to
+_London_ at a great Distance, they let it be a Year old before they Tap
+it, so that then it is perfectly fine; this they put into small Casks that
+have a Bung-hole only fit for a large Cork, and then they immediately put
+in a Role of Bean-flour first kneaded with Water or Drink, and baked in an
+Oven, which is all secured by pitching in the Cork, and so sent in the
+Waggon; the Bean-flour feeding and preserving the Body of the Drink all
+the way, without fretting or causing it to burst the Cask for want of
+Vent, and when Tapp'd will also make the Drink very brisk, because the
+Flour is in such a hard Consistence, that it won't dissolve in that time;
+but if a little does mix with the Ale or Beer, its heavy Parts will sooner
+fine than thicken the Drink and keep it mellow and lively to the last, if
+Air is kept out of the Barrel.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XIX.
+
+
+_Of the Strength and Age of Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Whether they be Ales or strong Beers, it is certain that the midling sort
+is allowed by Physicians to be the most agreeable of any, especially to
+those of a sedentary Life, or those that are not occupied in such Business
+as promotes Perspiration enough to throw out and break the Viscidities of
+the stronger sorts; on which account the laborious Man has the advantage,
+whose Diet being poor and Body robust, the strength of such Liquors gives
+a Supply and better digests into Nourishment: But for the unactive Man a
+Hogshead of Ale which is made from six Bushels of Malt is sufficient for a
+Diluter of their Food, and will better assist their Constitution than the
+more strong sort, that would in such produce Obstructions and ill Humours;
+and therefore that Quantity for Ale, and ten Bushels for a Hogshead of
+strong Beer that should not be Tapp'd under nine Months, is the most
+healthful. And this I have experienc'd by enjoying such an Amber Liquor
+that has been truly brewed from good Malt, as to be of a Vinous Nature,
+that would permit of a hearty Dose over Night, and yet the next Morning
+leave a Person light, brisk and unconcern'd. This then is the true Nostrum
+of Brewing, and ought to be studied and endeavoured for by all those that
+can afford to follow the foregoing Rules, and then it will supply in a
+great measure those chargeable (and often adulterated tartarous
+arthritick) Wines. So likewise for small Beer, especially in a Farmer's
+Family where it is not of a Body enough, the Drinkers will be feeble in
+hot Weather and not be able to perform their Work, and will also bring on
+Distempers, besides the loss of time, and a great waste of such Beer that
+is generally much thrown away; because Drink is certainly a Nourisher of
+the Body, as well as Meats, and the more substantial they both are, the
+better will the Labourer go through his Work, especially at Harvest; and
+in large Families the Doctor's Bills have proved the Evil of this bad
+Oeconomy, and far surmounted the Charge of that Malt that would have kept
+the Servants in good Health, and preserved the Beer from such Waste as the
+smaller sort is liable to.
+
+'Tis therefore that some prudent Farmers will brew their Ale and small
+Beer in _March_, by allowing of five or six Bushels of Malt, and two
+Pounds of Hops to the Hogshead of Ale, and a quarter of Malt and three
+Pounds of Hops to five Barrels of small Beer. Others there are, that will
+brew their Ale or strong Beer in _October_, and their small Beer a Month
+before it is wanted. Others will brew their Ale and small Beer in _April,
+May_ and _June_; but this according to humour, and therefore I have hinted
+of the several Seasons for Brewing these Liquors: However in my Opinion,
+whether it be strong or small Drinks, they should be clear, smooth and not
+too small, if they are design'd for Profit and Health; for if they are
+otherwise, it will be a sad Evil to Harvest Men, because then they stand
+most in need of the greatest Balsamicks: To this end some of the softning
+Ingredients mentioned in the foregoing Receipts should be made use of to
+feed it accordingly, if these Drinks are brewed forward. And that this
+particular important Article in the Brewing Oeconomy may be better
+understood, I shall here recite Dr. _Quincy_'s Opinion of Malt Liquors,
+viz. The Age of Malt Drinks makes them more or less wholsome, and seems to
+do somewhat the same as Hops; for those Liquors which are longest kept,
+are certainly the least viscid; Age by degrees breaking the viscid Parts,
+and rendering them smaller, makes them finer for Secretion; but this is
+always to be determined by their Strength, because in Proportion to that
+will they sooner or later come to their full Perfection and likewise their
+Decay, until the finer Spirits quite make their Escape, and the remainder
+becomes vapid and sour. By what therefore has been already said, it will
+appear that the older Drinks are the more healthful, so they be kept up to
+this Standard, but not beyond it. Some therefore are of Opinion, that
+strong Beer brewed in _October_ should be Tapp'd at _Midsummer_, and that
+brewed in _March_ at _Christmas_, as being most agreeable to the Seasons
+of the Year that follow such Brewings: For then they will both have part
+of a Summer and Winter to ripen and digest their several Bodies; and 'tis
+my humble Opinion, that where the Strength of the Beer, the Quantity of
+Hops, the boiling Fermentation and the Cask are all rightly managed, there
+Drink may be most excellent, and better at nine Months Age, than at nine
+Years, for Health and Pleasure of Body. But to be truly certain of the
+right Time, there should be first an Examination made by Pegging the
+Vessel to prove if such Drink is fine, the Hop sufficiently rotted, and it
+be mellow and well tasted.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XX.
+
+
+_Of the Pleasure and Profit of Private Brewing, and the Charge of buying
+Malt Liquors_.
+
+
+Here I am to treat of the main Article of shewing the difference between
+brewing our own Ales and Beers, and buying them, which I doubt not will
+appear so plain and evident, as to convince any Reader, that many Persons
+may save well towards half in half, and have their Beer and Ale strong,
+fine and aged at their own Discretion: A satisfaction that is of no small
+weight, and the rather since I have now made known a Method of Brewing a
+Quantity of Malt with a little Copper and a few Tubs, a Secret that has
+long wanted Publication; for now a Person may Brew in a little Room, and
+that very safely by keeping his Wort from Foxing, as I have already
+explained, which by many has been thought impossible heretofore; and this
+Direction is the more Valuable as there are many Thousands who live in
+Cities and Towns, that have no more than a few Yards Square of Room to
+perform a private Brewing in. And as for the trouble, it is easy to
+account for by those who have time enough on their Hands, and would do
+nothing else if they had not done this: Or if a Man is paid half a Crown a
+Day for a Quantity accordingly: Or if a Servant can do this besides his
+other Work for the same Wages and Charge, I believe the following account
+will make it appear it is over-ballanc'd considerably, by what such a
+Person may save in this undertaking, besides the Pleasure of thoroughly
+knowing the several Ingredients and Cleanliness of the Brewer and
+Utensils. In several of the Northern Counties of _England_, where they
+have good Barley, Coak-dryed Malt, and the Drink brewed at Home, there are
+seldom any bad Ales or Beers, because they have the Knowledge in Brewing
+so well, that there are hardly any common Brewers amongst them: In the
+West indeed there are some few, but in the South and East Parts there are
+many; and now follows the Account, that I have Stated according to my own
+general Practice, viz.
+
+_A Calculation of the Charge and Profit of Brewing six Bushels of Malt for
+a private Family_.
+
+ L. s. d.
+ Six Bushels of Malt at 2s. 8d.
+ _per_ Bushel, Barley being this )
+ Year 1733. sold for 14s. _per_ ) 0 16 0
+ Quarter by the Farmer )
+
+ Hops one Pound 0 1 6
+
+ Yeast a Quart 0 0 4
+
+ Coals one Bushel, or if Wood or Furze 0 1 0
+
+ A Man's Wages a Day 0 2 6
+ ------------
+ Total 1 1 4
+
+_Of these six Bushels of Malt I make one Hogshead of Ale and another of
+Small Beer: But if I was to buy them of some common Brewers, the Charge
+will be as follows_, viz.
+
+ L s. d.
+
+ One Hogshead of Ale containing 48 )
+ Gallons, at 6 _d. per_ Gallon is ) 1 4 0
+
+ One Hogshead of Small Beer )
+ containing 54 Gallons, at 2 _d_. )
+ 0 9 0 _per_ Gallon is ) 0 9 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ 1 13 0
+ ___.____.____
+
+ Total Saved 0 11 8
+
+By the above Account it plainly appears, that 11 s. and 8 d. is clearly
+gained in Brewing of six Bushels of Malt at our own House for a private
+Family, and yet I make the Charge fuller by 2 s. and 6 d. then it will
+happen with many, whose Conveniency by Servants, &c. may intirely take it
+off; besides the six Bushels of Grains that are currently sold for
+Three-pence the Bushel, which will make the Eleven and Eight-pence more by
+four Shillings, without reckoning any thing for yeast, that in the very
+cheapest time sells here for Four-pence the Quart, and many times there
+happens three Quarts from so much Drink; so that there may possibly be
+gained in all sixteen Shillings and Eight-pence: A fine Sum indeed in so
+small a Quantity of Malt. But here by course will arise a Question,
+whether this Ale is as good as that bought of some of the common Brewers
+at Six-pence a Gallon; I can't say all is; however I can aver this, that
+the Ale I brew in the Country from six Bushels of Malt for my Family, I
+think is generally full as good, if not better than any I ever sold at
+that Price in my _London_ Brewhouse: And if I should say, that where the
+Malt, Water and Hops are right good, and the Brewer's Skill answerable to
+them, there might be a Hogshead of as good Ale and another of small Beer
+made from five Bushels as I desire to use for my Family, or for Harvest
+Men; It is no more than I have many times experienced, and 'tis the common
+length I made for that Purpose. And whoever makes use of true Pale and
+Amber Malts, and pursues the Directions of this Book, I doubt not but will
+have their Expectation fully answered in this last Quantity, and so save
+the great Expence of Excise that the common Brewers Drink is always
+clogg'd with, which is [blotted text] than five Shillings for Ale and
+Eighteen-pence _per_ Barrel for Small Beer.
+
+
+
+
+CHAP. XXI.
+
+
+_A Philosophical Account for Brewing strong_ October _Beer. By an
+Ingenious Hand_.
+
+
+In Brewing, your Malt ought to be sound and good, and after its making to
+lye two or more Months in the Heap, to come to such a temper, that the
+Kernel may readily melt in the washing.
+
+The well dressing your Malt, ought to be one chief Care; for unless it be
+freed from the Tails and Dust, your Drink will not be fine and mellow as
+when it is clean dressed.
+
+The grinding also must be considered according to the high or low drying
+of the Malt; for if high dryed, then a gross grinding is best, otherwise a
+smaller may be done; for the Care in grinding consists herein, lest too
+much of the Husk being ground small should mix with the Liquor, which
+makes a gross Feces, and consequently your Drink will have too fierce a
+Fermentation, and by that means make it Acid, or that we call Stale.
+
+When your Malt is ground, let it stand in Sacks twenty-four Hours at
+least, to the end that the Heat in grinding may be allayed, and 'tis
+conceived by its so standing that the Kernel will dissolve the better.
+
+The measure and quantity we allow of Hops and Malt, is five Quarter of
+Malt to three Hogsheads of Beer, and eighteen Pounds of Hops at least to
+that Quantity of Malt, and if Malt be pale dryed, then add three or four
+Pounds of Hops more.
+
+The Choice of Liquor for Brewing is of considerable advantage in making
+good Drink, the softest and cleanest water is to be prererr'd, your harsh
+water is not to be made use of.
+
+You are to boil your first Liquor, adding a Handful or two of Hops to it,
+then before you strike it over to your Goods or Malt, cool in as much
+Liquor, as will bring it to a temper not to scald the Malt, for it is a
+fault not to take the Liquor as high as possible but not to scald. The
+next Liquors do the same.
+
+And indeed all your Liquors ought to be taken as high as may be, that is
+not to scald.
+
+When you let your Wort from your Malt into the Underback, put to it a
+Handful or two of Hops, 'twill preserve it from that accident which
+Brewers call Blinking or Foxing.
+
+In boiling your Worts, the first Wort boil high or quick; for the quicker
+the first Wort is boiled, the better it is.
+
+The second boil more than the first, and the third or last more than the
+second.
+
+In cooling lay your Worts thin, and let each be well cooled, and Care must
+be taken in letting them down into the Tun, that you do it leisurely, to
+the end that as little of the Feces or Sediment which causes the
+Fermentation to be fierce or mild, for Note, there is in all fermented
+Liquors, Salt and Sulphur, and to keep these two Bodies in a due
+Proportion, that the Salt does not exalt itself above the Sulphur,
+consists a great part of the Art in Brewing.
+
+When your Wort is first let into your Tun, put but a little Yeast to it,
+and let it work by degrees quietly, and if you find it works but moderate,
+whip in the Yeast two or three times or more, till you find your Drink
+well fermented, for without a full opening of the Body by fermentation, it
+will not be perfect fine, nor will it drink clean and light.
+
+When you cleanse, do it by a Cock from your Tun, placed six Inches from
+the Bottom, to the end that most of the Sediment may be left behind, which
+may be thrown on your Malt to mend your Small Beer.
+
+When your Drink is Tunn'd, fill your Vessel full, let it work at the
+Bung-hole, and have a reserve in a small Cask to fill it up, and don't put
+any of the Drink which will be under the Yeast after it is work'd over
+into your Vessels, but put it by itself in another Cask, for it will not
+be so good as your other in the Cask.
+
+This done, you must wait for the finishing of the fermentation, then stop
+it close, and let it stand till the Spring, for Brewing ought to be done
+in the Month of _October_, that it may have time to settle and digest all
+the Winter Season.
+
+In the Spring you must unstop your Vent-hole and thereby see whether your
+Drink doth ferment or not, for as soon as the warm Weather comes, your
+Drink will have another fermentation, which when it is over, let it be
+again well stopped and stand till _September_ or longer, and then Peg it;
+and if you find it pretty fine, the Hop well rotted and of a good pleasant
+taste for drinking.
+
+Then and not before draw out a Gallon of it, put to it two Ounces of
+Ising-glass cut small and well beaten to melt, stirring it often and whip
+it with a Wisk till the Ising-glass be melted, then strain it and put it
+into your Vessel, stirring it well together, stop the Bung slightly, for
+this will cause a new and small fermentation, when that is over stop it
+close, leaving only a Vent-hole a little stopp'd, let it stand, and in ten
+Days or a little more, it will be transparently fine, and you may drink of
+it out of the Vessel till two parts in three be drawn, then Bottle the
+rest, which will in a little time come to drink very well. If your Drink
+in _September_ be well condition'd for taste, but not fine, and you desire
+to drink it presently, rack it before you put your Ising-glass to it, and
+then it will fine the better and drink the cleaner.
+
+To make Drink fine quickly, I have been told that by separating the Liquor
+from the Feces, when the Wort is let out of the Tun into the Underback,
+which may be done in this manner, when you let your Wort into your
+Underback out of your Tun, catch the Wort in some Tub so long, and so
+often as you find it run foul, put that so catched on the Malt again, and
+do so till the Wort run clear into the Underback. This is to me a very
+good way (where it may be done) for 'tis the Feces which causes the fierce
+and violent fermentation, and to hinder that in some measure is the way to
+have fine Drink: Note that the finer you make your Wort, the sooner your
+Drink will be fine, for I have heard that some Curious in Brewing have
+caused Flannels to be so placed, that all the Wort may run thro' one or
+more of them into the Tun before working, by which means the Drink was
+made very fine and well tasted.
+
+
+ _Observations on the foregoing Account_.
+
+
+This Excellent Philosophical Account of Brewing _October_ Beer, has
+hitherto remained in private Hands as a very great Secret, and was given
+to a Friend of mine by the Author himself, to whom the World is much
+obliged, altho' it comes by me; In justice therefore to this ingenious
+Person, I would here mention his Name, had I leave for so doing; but at
+present this Intimation must suffice. However, I shall here take notice,
+that his Caution against using tailed or dusty Malt, which is too commonly
+sold, is truly worthy of Observation; for these are so far from producing
+more Ale or Beer, that they absorb and drink part of it up.
+
+In Grinding Malts he notifies well to prevent a foul Drink.
+
+The quantity he allows is something above thirteen Bushels to the Hogshead
+which is very sufficient; but this as every body pleases.
+
+The Choice of Liquors or Waters for Brewing, he says, is of considerable
+advantage; and so must every body else that knows their Natures and loves
+Health, and pleasant Drink: For this purpose, in my Opinion, the Air and
+Soil is to be regarded where the Brewing is performed; since the Air
+affects all things it can come at, whether Animal, Vegetable or Mineral,
+as may be proved from many Instances: In the Marshes of _Kent_ and
+_Essex_, the Air there is generally so infectious by means of those low
+vaesy boggy Grounds, that seldom a Person escapes an Ague one time or
+other, whether Natives or Aliens, and is often fatally known to some of
+the _Londoners_ and others who merrily and nimbly travel down to the Isles
+of _Grain_ and _Sheppy_ for a valuable Harvest, but in a Month's time they
+generally return thro' the Village of _Soorne_ with another Mien. There is
+also a little _Moor_ in _Hertfordshire_, thro' which a Water runs that
+frequently gives the _Passant_ Horses that drink of it, the Colick or
+Gripes, by means of the aluminous sharp Particles of its Earth; Its Air is
+also so bad, as has obliged several to remove from its Situation for their
+Healths: The Dominion of the Air is likewise so powerful over Vegetables,
+that what will grow in one Place won't in another, as is plain from the
+Beech and Black Cherry Tree, that refuse the Vale of _Ailesbury_ tho' on
+some Hills there, yet will thrive in the _Chiltern_ or Hilly Country: So
+the Limes and other Trees about _London_ are all generally black-barked,
+while those in the Country are most of them of a Silver white. Water is
+also so far under the Influence of the Air and Soil, as makes many
+excellent for Brewing when others are as bad. In Rivers, that run thro'
+boggy Places, the Sullage or Washings of such Soils are generally
+unwholsome as the nature of such Ground is; and so the Water becomes
+infected by that and the Effluvia or Vapour that accompanies such Water:
+So Ponds are surely good or bad, as they are under too much Cover or
+supply'd by nasty Drains, or as they stand situated or exposed to good and
+bad Airs. Thus the Well-waters by consequence share in the good or bad
+Effects of such Soils that they run thorough, and the very Surface of the
+Earth by which such Waters are strained, is surely endowed with the
+quality of the Air in which it lies; which brings me to my intended
+purpose, to prove that Water drawn out of a Chalky, or Fire-stone Well,
+which is situated under a dry sweet loamy Soil, in a fine pure Air, and
+that is perfectly soft, must excel most if not all other Well-waters for
+the purpose in Brewing. The Worts also that are rooted in such an Air, in
+course partakes of its nitrous Benefits, as being much exposed thereto in
+the high Backs or Coolers that contain them. In my own Grounds I have
+Chalks under Clays and Loams; but as the latter is better than the former,
+so the Water proves more soft and wholsome under one than the other. Hence
+then may be observed the contrary Quality of those harsh curdling
+Well-waters that many drink of in their Malt Liquors, without considering
+their ill Effects, which are justly condemn'd by this able Author as unfit
+to be made use of in Brewing _October_ Beer.
+
+The boiling a few Hops in the first Water is good, but they must be
+strained thro' a Sieve before the Water is put into the Malt; and to check
+its Heat with cold Liquor, or to let it stand to cool some time, is a
+right Method, lest it scalds and locks up the Pores of the Malt, which
+would then yield a thick Wort to the end of the Brewing and never be good
+Drink.
+
+His putting Hops into the Underback, is an excellent Contrivance to
+prevent foxing, as I have already hinted.
+
+The quick boiling of the Wort is of no less Service, and that the smaller
+Wort should be boiled longer than the strong is good Judgment, because the
+stronger the Wort, the sooner the Spirits flie away and the waste of more
+Consequence; besides if the first Wort was to be boiled too long, it would
+obtain so thick a Body, as to prevent in great measure its fining
+hereafter after so soon in the Barrel; while the smaller sort will
+evaporate its more watry Parts, and thereby be brought into a thicker
+Confidence, which is perfectly necessary in thin Worts; and in this
+Article lies so much the Skill of the Brewer, that some will make a longer
+Length than ordinary from the Goods for Small Beer, to shorten it
+afterwards in the Copper by Length of boiling, and this way of consuming
+it is the more natural, because the remaining part will be better Cured.
+
+The laying Worts thin is a most necessary Precaution; for this is one way
+to prevent their running into Cohesions and Foxing, the want of which
+Knowledge and Care has undoubtedly been the occasion of great Losses in
+Brewing; for when Worts are tainted in any considerable degree, they will
+be ropy in time and unfit for the human Body, as being unwholsome as well
+as unpleasant. So likewise is his _Item_ of great Importance, when he
+advises to draw the Worts off fine out of the Backs or Coolers, and leave
+the Feces or Sediments behind, by reason, as he says, they are the cause
+of those two detested Qualities in Malt Liquors, staleness and foulness,
+two Properties that ought to imploy the greatest Care in Brewers to
+prevent; for 'tis certain these Sediments are a Composition of the very
+worst part of the Malt, Hops and Yeast, and, while they are in the Barrel,
+will so tincture and impregnate the Drink with their insanous and
+unpleasant nature, that its Drinkers will be sure to participate thereof
+more or less as they have lain together a longer or a shorter time. To
+have then a Malt Drink balsamick and mild, the Worts cannot be run off too
+fine from the Coolers, nor well fermented too slow, that there may be a
+Medium kept, in both the Salt and Sulphur that all fermented Malt Drinks
+abound with, and herein, as he says, lies a great part of the Art of
+Brewing.
+
+He says truly well, that a little Yeast at first should be put to the
+Wort, that it may quietly work by degrees, and not be violently forc'd
+into a high Fermentation; for then by course the Salt and Sulphur will be
+too violently agitated into such an Excess and Disagreement of Parts, that
+will break their Unity into irregular Commotions, and cause the Drink to
+be soon stale and harsh. But if it should be too backward and work too
+moderate, then whipping the Yeast two or three times into it will be of
+some service to open the Body of the Beer, for as he observes, if Drink
+has not a due fermentation, it will not be fine, clean, nor light.
+
+His advice to draw the Drink out of the Tun by a Cock at such a distance
+from the bottom is right; because that room will best keep the Feces from
+being disturb'd as the Drink is drawing off, and leaving them behind; but
+for putting them afterwards over the Malt for Small Beer, I don't hold it
+consonant with good Brewing, by reason in this Sediment there are many
+Particles of the Yeast, that consequently will cause a small Fermentation
+in the Liquor and Malt, and be a means to spoil rather than make good
+Small Beer.
+
+What he says of filling up the Cask with a reserve of the same Drink, and
+not with that which has once worked out, is past dispute just and right.
+
+And so is what he says of stopping up the Vessel close after the
+Fermentation is over; but that it is best to Brew all strong Beer in
+_October_, I must here take leave to dissent from the Tenet, because there
+is room for several Objections in relation to the sort of Malt and Cellar,
+which as I have before explained, shall say the less here.
+
+As he observes Care should be taken in the Spring to unstop the Vent, lest
+the warm Weather cause such a Fermentation as may burst the Cask, and also
+in _September_, that it be first try'd by Pegging if the Drink is fine,
+well tasted and the Hop rotted; and then if his Way is liked best, bring
+the rest into a transparent Fineness; for Clearness in Malt Liquors, as I
+said before, and here repeat it again, is a most agreeable Quality that
+every Man ought to enjoy for his Health and Pleasure, and therefore he
+advises for dispatch in this Affair, and to have the Drink very fine, to
+rack it off before the Ising-glass is put in; but I can't be a Votary for
+this Practice, as believing the Drink must lose a great deal of its
+Spirits by such shifting; yet I must chime in with his Notion of putting
+the Wort so often over the Malt till it comes off fine as I have already
+taught, which is a Method that has been used many Years in the North of
+_England_, where they are so curious as to let the Wort lie some time in
+the Underback to draw it off from the Feces there; nor are they less
+careful to run it fine out of the Cooler into the Tun, and from that into
+the Cask; in all which three several Places the Wort and Drink may be had
+clear and fine, and then there will be no more Sediments than is just
+necessary to assist and seed the Beer, and preserving its Spirits in a due
+Temper. But if Persons have Time and Conveniency, and their Inclination
+leads them to, obtain their Drink in the utmost Fineness, it is an
+extraordinary good way to use _Hippocrates_ Sleeve or Flannel Bag, which I
+did in my great Brew-house at _London_ for straining off the Feces that
+were left in the Backs. As to the Quantity of Malt for Brewing a Hogshead
+of _October_ Beer, I am of Opinion thirteen Bushels are right, and so are
+ten, fifteen and twenty, according as People approve of; for near
+_Litchfield_, I know some have brewed a Hogshead of _October_ Beer from
+sixteen Bushels of Barley Malt, one of Wheat, one of Beans, one of Pease
+and one of Oat Malt, besides hanging a Bag of Flower taken out of the last
+four Malts in the Hogshead for the Drink to feed on, nor can a certain
+Time Be limited and adjusted for the Tapping of any Drink (notwithstanding
+what has been affirmed to the contrary) because some Hops will not be
+rotted so soon as others, and some Drinks will not fine so soon as others;
+as is evident in the Pale Malt Drinks, that will seldom or never break so
+soon in the Copper as the Brown sort, nor will they be so soon ripe and
+fit to Tap as the high dryed Malt Drink will. Therefore what this
+Gentleman says of trying Drink by first Pegging it before it is Tapp'd, in
+my Opinion is more just and right than relying on a limited time for
+Broaching such Beer.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The London and Country Brewer, by Anonymous
+
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