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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/804-0.txt b/804-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4282032 --- /dev/null +++ b/804-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4735 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Sentimental Journey through France and Italy, by Laurence Sterne + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: A Sentimental Journey through France and Italy + +Author: Laurence Sterne + +Editor: Henry Morley + +Release Date: February 12, 1997 [eBook #804] +[Most recently updated: October 24, 2021] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: David Price + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY *** + + + + + A + SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY + THROUGH + FRANCE AND ITALY; + + + BY MR. YORICK. + + [THE REV. LAURENCE STERNE, M.A.] + + [FIRST PUBLISHED IN 1768.] + +THEY order, said I, this matter better in France.—You have been in +France? said my gentleman, turning quick upon me, with the most civil +triumph in the world.—Strange! quoth I, debating the matter with myself, +That one and twenty miles sailing, for ’tis absolutely no further from +Dover to Calais, should give a man these rights:—I’ll look into them: so, +giving up the argument,—I went straight to my lodgings, put up half a +dozen shirts and a black pair of silk breeches,—“the coat I have on,” +said I, looking at the sleeve, “will do;”—took a place in the Dover +stage; and the packet sailing at nine the next morning,—by three I had +got sat down to my dinner upon a fricaseed chicken, so incontestably in +France, that had I died that night of an indigestion, the whole world +could not have suspended the effects of the _droits d’aubaine_; {557}—my +shirts, and black pair of silk breeches,—portmanteau and all, must have +gone to the King of France;—even the little picture which I have so long +worn, and so often have told thee, Eliza, I would carry with me into my +grave, would have been torn from my neck!—Ungenerous! to seize upon the +wreck of an unwary passenger, whom your subjects had beckoned to their +coast!—By heaven! Sire, it is not well done; and much does it grieve me, +’tis the monarch of a people so civilized and courteous, and so renowned +for sentiment and fine feelings, that I have to reason with!— + +But I have scarce set a foot in your dominions.— + + + + +CALAIS. + + +When I had fished my dinner, and drank the King of France’s health, to +satisfy my mind that I bore him no spleen, but, on the contrary, high +honour for the humanity of his temper,—I rose up an inch taller for the +accommodation. + +—No—said I—the Bourbon is by no means a cruel race: they may be misled, +like other people; but there is a mildness in their blood. As I +acknowledged this, I felt a suffusion of a finer kind upon my cheek—more +warm and friendly to man, than what Burgundy (at least of two livres a +bottle, which was such as I had been drinking) could have produced. + +—Just God! said I, kicking my portmanteau aside, what is there in this +world’s goods which should sharpen our spirits, and make so many +kind-hearted brethren of us fall out so cruelly as we do by the way? + +When man is at peace with man, how much lighter than a feather is the +heaviest of metals in his hand! he pulls out his purse, and holding it +airily and uncompressed, looks round him, as if he sought for an object +to share it with.—In doing this, I felt every vessel in my frame +dilate,—the arteries beat all cheerily together, and every power which +sustained life, performed it with so little friction, that ’twould have +confounded the most _physical précieuse_ in France; with all her +materialism, she could scarce have called me a machine.— + +I’m confident, said I to myself, I should have overset her creed. + +The accession of that idea carried nature, at that time, as high as she +could go;—I was at peace with the world before, and this finish’d the +treaty with myself.— + +—Now, was I King of France, cried I—what a moment for an orphan to have +begg’d his father’s portmanteau of me! + + + + +THE MONK. +CALAIS. + + +I HAD scarce uttered the words, when a poor monk of the order of St. +Francis came into the room to beg something for his convent. No man +cares to have his virtues the sport of contingencies—or one man may be +generous, as another is puissant;—_sed non quoad hanc_—or be it as it +may,—for there is no regular reasoning upon the ebbs and flows of our +humours; they may depend upon the same causes, for aught I know, which +influence the tides themselves: ’twould oft be no discredit to us, to +suppose it was so: I’m sure at least for myself, that in many a case I +should be more highly satisfied, to have it said by the world, “I had had +an affair with the moon, in which there was neither sin nor shame,” than +have it pass altogether as my own act and deed, wherein there was so much +of both. + +—But, be this as it may,—the moment I cast my eyes upon him, I was +predetermined not to give him a single sous; and, accordingly, I put my +purse into my pocket—buttoned it—set myself a little more upon my centre, +and advanced up gravely to him; there was something, I fear, forbidding +in my look: I have his figure this moment before my eyes, and think there +was that in it which deserved better. + +The monk, as I judged by the break in his tonsure, a few scattered white +hairs upon his temples, being all that remained of it, might be about +seventy;—but from his eyes, and that sort of fire which was in them, +which seemed more temper’d by courtesy than years, could be no more than +sixty:—Truth might lie between—He was certainly sixty-five; and the +general air of his countenance, notwithstanding something seem’d to have +been planting wrinkles in it before their time, agreed to the account. + +It was one of those heads which Guido has often painted,—mild, +pale—penetrating, free from all commonplace ideas of fat contented +ignorance looking downwards upon the earth;—it look’d forwards; but +look’d as if it look’d at something beyond this world.—How one of his +order came by it, heaven above, who let it fall upon a monk’s shoulders +best knows: but it would have suited a Bramin, and had I met it upon the +plains of Indostan, I had reverenced it. + +The rest of his outline may be given in a few strokes; one might put it +into the hands of any one to design, for ’twas neither elegant nor +otherwise, but as character and expression made it so: it was a thin, +spare form, something above the common size, if it lost not the +distinction by a bend forward in the figure,—but it was the attitude of +Intreaty; and, as it now stands presented to my imagination, it gained +more than it lost by it. + +When he had entered the room three paces, he stood still; and laying his +left hand upon his breast (a slender white staff with which he journey’d +being in his right)—when I had got close up to him, he introduced himself +with the little story of the wants of his convent, and the poverty of his +order;—and did it with so simple a grace,—and such an air of deprecation +was there in the whole cast of his look and figure,—I was bewitch’d not +to have been struck with it. + +—A better reason was, I had predetermined not to give him a single sous. + + + + +THE MONK. +CALAIS. + + +—’TIS very true, said I, replying to a cast upwards with his eyes, with +which he had concluded his address;—’tis very true,—and heaven be their +resource who have no other but the charity of the world, the stock of +which, I fear, is no way sufficient for the many _great claims_ which are +hourly made upon it. + +As I pronounced the words _great claims_, he gave a slight glance with +his eye downwards upon the sleeve of his tunic:—I felt the full force of +the appeal—I acknowledge it, said I:—a coarse habit, and that but once in +three years with meagre diet,—are no great matters; and the true point of +pity is, as they can be earn’d in the world with so little industry, that +your order should wish to procure them by pressing upon a fund which is +the property of the lame, the blind, the aged and the infirm;—the captive +who lies down counting over and over again the days of his afflictions, +languishes also for his share of it; and had you been of the _order of +mercy_, instead of the order of St. Francis, poor as I am, continued I, +pointing at my portmanteau, full cheerfully should it have been open’d to +you, for the ransom of the unfortunate.—The monk made me a bow.—But of +all others, resumed I, the unfortunate of our own country, surely, have +the first rights; and I have left thousands in distress upon our own +shore.—The monk gave a cordial wave with his head,—as much as to say, No +doubt there is misery enough in every corner of the world, as well as +within our convent—But we distinguish, said I, laying my hand upon the +sleeve of his tunic, in return for his appeal—we distinguish, my good +father! betwixt those who wish only to eat the bread of their own +labour—and those who eat the bread of other people’s, and have no other +plan in life, but to get through it in sloth and ignorance, _for the love +of God_. + +The poor Franciscan made no reply: a hectic of a moment pass’d across his +cheek, but could not tarry—Nature seemed to have done with her +resentments in him;—he showed none:—but letting his staff fall within his +arms, he pressed both his hands with resignation upon his breast, and +retired. + + + + +THE MONK. +CALAIS. + + +MY heart smote me the moment he shut the door—Psha! said I, with an air +of carelessness, three several times—but it would not do: every +ungracious syllable I had utter’d crowded back into my imagination: I +reflected, I had no right over the poor Franciscan, but to deny him; and +that the punishment of that was enough to the disappointed, without the +addition of unkind language.—I consider’d his gray hairs—his courteous +figure seem’d to re-enter and gently ask me what injury he had done +me?—and why I could use him thus?—I would have given twenty livres for an +advocate.—I have behaved very ill, said I within myself; but I have only +just set out upon my travels; and shall learn better manners as I get +along. + + + + +THE DESOBLIGEANT. +CALAIS. + + +WHEN a man is discontented with himself, it has one advantage however, +that it puts him into an excellent frame of mind for making a bargain. +Now there being no travelling through France and Italy without a +chaise,—and nature generally prompting us to the thing we are fittest +for, I walk’d out into the coach-yard to buy or hire something of that +kind to my purpose: an old _désobligeant_ {562} in the furthest corner of +the court, hit my fancy at first sight, so I instantly got into it, and +finding it in tolerable harmony with my feelings, I ordered the waiter to +call Monsieur Dessein, the master of the hotel:—but Monsieur Dessein +being gone to vespers, and not caring to face the Franciscan, whom I saw +on the opposite side of the court, in conference with a lady just arrived +at the inn,—I drew the taffeta curtain betwixt us, and being determined +to write my journey, I took out my pen and ink and wrote the preface to +it in the _désobligeant_. + + + + +PREFACE. +IN THE DESOBLIGEANT. + + +IT must have been observed by many a peripatetic philosopher, That nature +has set up by her own unquestionable authority certain boundaries and +fences to circumscribe the discontent of man; she has effected her +purpose in the quietest and easiest manner by laying him under almost +insuperable obligations to work out his ease, and to sustain his +sufferings at home. It is there only that she has provided him with the +most suitable objects to partake of his happiness, and bear a part of +that burden which in all countries and ages has ever been too heavy for +one pair of shoulders. ’Tis true, we are endued with an imperfect power +of spreading our happiness sometimes beyond _her_ limits, but ’tis so +ordered, that, from the want of languages, connections, and dependencies, +and from the difference in education, customs, and habits, we lie under +so many impediments in communicating our sensations out of our own +sphere, as often amount to a total impossibility. + +It will always follow from hence, that the balance of sentimental +commerce is always against the expatriated adventurer: he must buy what +he has little occasion for, at their own price;—his conversation will +seldom be taken in exchange for theirs without a large discount,—and +this, by the by, eternally driving him into the hands of more equitable +brokers, for such conversation as he can find, it requires no great +spirit of divination to guess at his party— + +This brings me to my point; and naturally leads me (if the see-saw of +this _désobligeant_ will but let me get on) into the efficient as well as +final causes of travelling— + +Your idle people that leave their native country, and go abroad for some +reason or reasons which may be derived from one of these general causes:— + + Infirmity of body, + Imbecility of mind, or + Inevitable necessity. + +The first two include all those who travel by land or by water, labouring +with pride, curiosity, vanity, or spleen, subdivided and combined _ad +infinitum_. + +The third class includes the whole army of peregrine martyrs; more +especially those travellers who set out upon their travels with the +benefit of the clergy, either as delinquents travelling under the +direction of governors recommended by the magistrate;—or young gentlemen +transported by the cruelty of parents and guardians, and travelling under +the direction of governors recommended by Oxford, Aberdeen, and Glasgow. + +There is a fourth class, but their number is so small that they would not +deserve a distinction, were it not necessary in a work of this nature to +observe the greatest precision and nicety, to avoid a confusion of +character. And these men I speak of, are such as cross the seas and +sojourn in a land of strangers, with a view of saving money for various +reasons and upon various pretences: but as they might also save +themselves and others a great deal of unnecessary trouble by saving their +money at home,—and as their reasons for travelling are the least complex +of any other species of emigrants, I shall distinguish these gentlemen by +the name of + + Simple Travellers. + +Thus the whole circle of travellers may be reduced to the following +_heads_:— + + Idle Travellers, + + Inquisitive Travellers, + + Lying Travellers, + + Proud Travellers, + + Vain Travellers, + + Splenetic Travellers. + +Then follow: + + The Travellers of Necessity, + + The Delinquent and Felonious Traveller, + + The Unfortunate and Innocent Traveller, + + The Simple Traveller, + +And last of all (if you please) The Sentimental Traveller, (meaning +thereby myself) who have travell’d, and of which I am now sitting down to +give an account,—as much out of _Necessity_, and the _besoin de Voyager_, +as any one in the class. + +I am well aware, at the same time, as both my travels and observations +will be altogether of a different cast from any of my forerunners, that I +might have insisted upon a whole nitch entirely to myself;—but I should +break in upon the confines of the _Vain_ Traveller, in wishing to draw +attention towards me, till I have some better grounds for it than the +mere _Novelty of my Vehicle_. + +It is sufficient for my reader, if he has been a traveller himself, that +with study and reflection hereupon he may be able to determine his own +place and rank in the catalogue;—it will be one step towards knowing +himself; as it is great odds but he retains some tincture and +resemblance, of what he imbibed or carried out, to the present hour. + +The man who first transplanted the grape of Burgundy to the Cape of Good +Hope (observe he was a Dutchman) never dreamt of drinking the same wine +at the Cape, that the same grape produced upon the French mountains,—he +was too phlegmatic for that—but undoubtedly he expected to drink some +sort of vinous liquor; but whether good or bad, or indifferent,—he knew +enough of this world to know, that it did not depend upon his choice, but +that what is generally called _choice_, was to decide his success: +however, he hoped for the best; and in these hopes, by an intemperate +confidence in the fortitude of his head, and the depth of his discretion, +_Mynheer_ might possibly oversee both in his new vineyard; and by +discovering his nakedness, become a laughing stock to his people. + +Even so it fares with the Poor Traveller, sailing and posting through the +politer kingdoms of the globe, in pursuit of knowledge and improvements. + +Knowledge and improvements are to be got by sailing and posting for that +purpose; but whether useful knowledge and real improvements is all a +lottery;—and even where the adventurer is successful, the acquired stock +must be used with caution and sobriety, to turn to any profit:—but, as +the chances run prodigiously the other way, both as to the acquisition +and application, I am of opinion, That a man would act as wisely, if he +could prevail upon himself to live contented without foreign knowledge or +foreign improvements, especially if he lives in a country that has no +absolute want of either;—and indeed, much grief of heart has it oft and +many a time cost me, when I have observed how many a foul step the +Inquisitive Traveller has measured to see sights and look into +discoveries; all which, as Sancho Panza said to Don Quixote, they might +have seen dry-shod at home. It is an age so full of light, that there is +scarce a country or corner in Europe whose beams are not crossed and +interchanged with others.—Knowledge in most of its branches, and in most +affairs, is like music in an Italian street, whereof those may partake +who pay nothing.—But there is no nation under heaven—and God is my record +(before whose tribunal I must one day come and give an account of this +work)—that I do not speak it vauntingly,—but there is no nation under +heaven abounding with more variety of learning,—where the sciences may be +more fitly woo’d, or more surely won, than here,—where art is encouraged, +and will so soon rise high,—where Nature (take her altogether) has so +little to answer for,—and, to close all, where there is more wit and +variety of character to feed the mind with:—Where then, my dear +countrymen, are you going?— + +We are only looking at this chaise, said they.—Your most obedient +servant, said I, skipping out of it, and pulling off my hat.—We were +wondering, said one of them, who, I found was an _Inquisitive +Traveller_,—what could occasion its motion.—’Twas the agitation, said I, +coolly, of writing a preface.—I never heard, said the other, who was a +_Simple Traveller_, of a preface wrote in a _désobligeant_.—It would have +been better, said I, in a _vis-a-vis_. + +—_As an Englishman does not travel to see Englishmen_, I retired to my +room. + + + + +CALAIS. + + +I PERCEIVED that something darken’d the passage more than myself, as I +stepp’d along it to my room; it was effectually Mons. Dessein, the master +of the hôtel, who had just returned from vespers, and with his hat under +his arm, was most complaisantly following me, to put me in mind of my +wants. I had wrote myself pretty well out of conceit with the +_désobligeant_, and Mons. Dessein speaking of it, with a shrug, as if it +would no way suit me, it immediately struck my fancy that it belong’d to +some _Innocent Traveller_, who, on his return home, had left it to Mons. +Dessein’s honour to make the most of. Four months had elapsed since it +had finished its career of Europe in the corner of Mons. Dessein’s +coach-yard; and having sallied out from thence but a vampt-up business at +the first, though it had been twice taken to pieces on Mount Sennis, it +had not profited much by its adventures,—but by none so little as the +standing so many months unpitied in the corner of Mons. Dessein’s +coach-yard. Much indeed was not to be said for it,—but something +might;—and when a few words will rescue misery out of her distress, I +hate the man who can be a churl of them. + +—Now was I the master of this hôtel, said I, laying the point of my +fore-finger on Mons. Dessein’s breast, I would inevitably make a point of +getting rid of this unfortunate _désobligeant_;—it stands swinging +reproaches at you every time you pass by it. + +_Mon Dieu_! said Mons. Dessein,—I have no interest—Except the interest, +said I, which men of a certain turn of mind take, Mons. Dessein, in their +own sensations,—I’m persuaded, to a man who feels for others as well as +for himself, every rainy night, disguise it as you will, must cast a damp +upon your spirits:—You suffer, Mons. Dessein, as much as the machine— + +I have always observed, when there is as much _sour_ as _sweet_ in a +compliment, that an Englishman is eternally at a loss within himself, +whether to take it, or let it alone: a Frenchman never is: Mons. Dessein +made me a bow. + +_C’est bien vrai_, said he.—But in this case I should only exchange one +disquietude for another, and with loss: figure to yourself, my dear Sir, +that in giving you a chaise which would fall to pieces before you had got +half-way to Paris,—figure to yourself how much I should suffer, in giving +an ill impression of myself to a man of honour, and lying at the mercy, +as I must do, _d’un homme d’esprit_. + +The dose was made up exactly after my own prescription; so I could not +help tasting it,—and, returning Mons. Dessein his bow, without more +casuistry we walk’d together towards his Remise, to take a view of his +magazine of chaises. + + + + +IN THE STREET. +CALAIS. + + +IT must needs be a hostile kind of a world, when the buyer (if it be but +of a sorry post-chaise) cannot go forth with the seller thereof into the +street to terminate the difference betwixt them, but he instantly falls +into the same frame of mind, and views his conventionist with the same +sort of eye, as if he was going along with him to Hyde-park corner to +fight a duel. For my own part, being but a poor swordsman, and no way a +match for Monsieur Dessein, I felt the rotation of all the movements +within me, to which the situation is incident;—I looked at Monsieur +Dessein through and through—eyed him as he walk’d along in profile,—then, +_en face_;—thought like a Jew,—then a Turk,—disliked his wig,—cursed him +by my gods,—wished him at the devil.— + +—And is all this to be lighted up in the heart for a beggarly account of +three or four louis d’ors, which is the most I can be overreached +in?—Base passion! said I, turning myself about, as a man naturally does +upon a sudden reverse of sentiment,—base, ungentle passion! thy hand is +against every man, and every man’s hand against thee.—Heaven forbid! said +she, raising her hand up to her forehead, for I had turned full in front +upon the lady whom I had seen in conference with the monk:—she had +followed us unperceived.—Heaven forbid, indeed! said I, offering her my +own;—she had a black pair of silk gloves, open only at the thumb and two +fore-fingers, so accepted it without reserve,—and I led her up to the +door of the Remise. + +Monsieur Dessein had _diabled_ the key above fifty times before he had +found out he had come with a wrong one in his hand: we were as impatient +as himself to have it opened; and so attentive to the obstacle that I +continued holding her hand almost without knowing it: so that Monsieur +Dessein left us together with her hand in mine, and with our faces turned +towards the door of the Remise, and said he would be back in five +minutes. + +Now a colloquy of five minutes, in such a situation, is worth one of as +many ages, with your faces turned towards the street: in the latter case, +’tis drawn from the objects and occurrences without;—when your eyes are +fixed upon a dead blank,—you draw purely from yourselves. A silence of a +single moment upon Mons. Dessein’s leaving us, had been fatal to the +situation—she had infallibly turned about;—so I begun the conversation +instantly.— + +—But what were the temptations (as I write not to apologize for the +weaknesses of my heart in this tour,—but to give an account of +them)—shall be described with the same simplicity with which I felt them. + + + + +THE REMISE DOOR. +CALAIS. + + +WHEN I told the reader that I did not care to get out of the +_désobligeant_, because I saw the monk in close conference with a lady +just arrived at the inn—I told him the truth,—but I did not tell him the +whole truth; for I was as full as much restrained by the appearance and +figure of the lady he was talking to. Suspicion crossed my brain and +said, he was telling her what had passed: something jarred upon it within +me,—I wished him at his convent. + +When the heart flies out before the understanding, it saves the judgment +a world of pains.—I was certain she was of a better order of +beings;—however, I thought no more of her, but went on and wrote my +preface. + +The impression returned upon my encounter with her in the street; a +guarded frankness with which she gave me her hand, showed, I thought, her +good education and her good sense; and as I led her on, I felt a +pleasurable ductility about her, which spread a calmness over all my +spirits— + +—Good God! how a man might lead such a creature as this round the world +with him!— + +I had not yet seen her face—’twas not material: for the drawing was +instantly set about, and long before we had got to the door of the +Remise, _Fancy_ had finished the whole head, and pleased herself as much +with its fitting her goddess, as if she had dived into the Tiber for +it;—but thou art a seduced, and a seducing slut; and albeit thou cheatest +us seven times a day with thy pictures and images, yet with so many +charms dost thou do it, and thou deckest out thy pictures in the shapes +of so many angels of light, ’tis a shame to break with thee. + +When we had got to the door of the Remise, she withdrew her hand from +across her forehead, and let me see the original:—it was a face of about +six-and-twenty,—of a clear transparent brown, simply set off without +rouge or powder;—it was not critically handsome, but there was that in +it, which, in the frame of mind I was in, attached me much more to it,—it +was interesting: I fancied it wore the characters of a widow’d look, and +in that state of its declension, which had passed the two first paroxysms +of sorrow, and was quietly beginning to reconcile itself to its loss;—but +a thousand other distresses might have traced the same lines; I wish’d to +know what they had been—and was ready to inquire, (had the same _bon ton_ +of conversation permitted, as in the days of Esdras)—“_What aileth thee_? +_and why art thou disquieted_? _and why is thy understanding +troubled_?”—In a word, I felt benevolence for her; and resolv’d some way +or other to throw in my mite of courtesy,—if not of service. + +Such were my temptations;—and in this disposition to give way to them, +was I left alone with the lady with her hand in mine, and with our faces +both turned closer to the door of the Remise than what was absolutely +necessary. + + + + +THE REMISE DOOR. +CALAIS. + + +THIS certainly, fair lady, said I, raising her hand up little lightly as +I began, must be one of Fortune’s whimsical doings; to take two utter +strangers by their hands,—of different sexes, and perhaps from different +corners of the globe, and in one moment place them together in such a +cordial situation as Friendship herself could scarce have achieved for +them, had she projected it for a month. + +—And your reflection upon it shows how much, Monsieur, she has +embarrassed you by the adventure— + +When the situation is what we would wish, nothing is so ill-timed as to +hint at the circumstances which make it so: you thank Fortune, continued +she—you had reason—the heart knew it, and was satisfied; and who but an +English philosopher would have sent notice of it to the brain to reverse +the judgment? + +In saying this, she disengaged her hand with a look which I thought a +sufficient commentary upon the text. + +It is a miserable picture which I am going to give of the weakness of my +heart, by owning, that it suffered a pain, which worthier occasions could +not have inflicted.—I was mortified with the loss of her hand, and the +manner in which I had lost it carried neither oil nor wine to the wound: +I never felt the pain of a sheepish inferiority so miserably in my life. + +The triumphs of a true feminine heart are short upon these discomfitures. +In a very few seconds she laid her hand upon the cuff of my coat, in +order to finish her reply; so, some way or other, God knows how, I +regained my situation. + +—She had nothing to add. + +I forthwith began to model a different conversation for the lady, +thinking from the spirit as well as moral of this, that I had been +mistaken in her character; but upon turning her face towards me, the +spirit which had animated the reply was fled,—the muscles relaxed, and I +beheld the same unprotected look of distress which first won me to her +interest:—melancholy! to see such sprightliness the prey of sorrow,—I +pitied her from my soul; and though it may seem ridiculous enough to a +torpid heart,—I could have taken her into my arms, and cherished her, +though it was in the open street, without blushing. + +The pulsations of the arteries along my fingers pressing across hers, +told her what was passing within me: she looked down—a silence of some +moments followed. + +I fear in this interval, I must have made some slight efforts towards a +closer compression of her hand, from a subtle sensation I felt in the +palm of my own,—not as if she was going to withdraw hers—but as if she +thought about it;—and I had infallibly lost it a second time, had not +instinct more than reason directed me to the last resource in these +dangers,—to hold it loosely, and in a manner as if I was every moment +going to release it, of myself; so she let it continue, till Monsieur +Dessein returned with the key; and in the mean time I set myself to +consider how I should undo the ill impressions which the poor monk’s +story, in case he had told it her, must have planted in her breast +against me. + + + + +THE SNUFF BOX. +CALAIS. + + +THE good old monk was within six paces of us, as the idea of him crossed +my mind; and was advancing towards us a little out of the line, as if +uncertain whether he should break in upon us or no.—He stopp’d, however, +as soon as he came up to us, with a world of frankness: and having a horn +snuff box in his hand, he presented it open to me.—You shall taste +mine—said I, pulling out my box (which was a small tortoise one) and +putting it into his hand.—’Tis most excellent, said the monk. Then do me +the favour, I replied, to accept of the box and all, and when you take a +pinch out of it, sometimes recollect it was the peace offering of a man +who once used you unkindly, but not from his heart. + +The poor monk blush’d as red as scarlet. _Mon Dieu_! said he, pressing +his hands together—you never used me unkindly.—I should think, said the +lady, he is not likely. I blush’d in my turn; but from what movements, I +leave to the few who feel, to analyze.—Excuse me, Madame, replied I,—I +treated him most unkindly; and from no provocations.—’Tis impossible, +said the lady.—My God! cried the monk, with a warmth of asseveration +which seem’d not to belong to him—the fault was in me, and in the +indiscretion of my zeal.—The lady opposed it, and I joined with her in +maintaining it was impossible, that a spirit so regulated as his, could +give offence to any. + +I knew not that contention could be rendered so sweet and pleasurable a +thing to the nerves as I then felt it.—We remained silent, without any +sensation of that foolish pain which takes place, when, in such a circle, +you look for ten minutes in one another’s faces without saying a word. +Whilst this lasted, the monk rubbed his horn box upon the sleeve of his +tunic; and as soon as it had acquired a little air of brightness by the +friction—he made me a low bow, and said, ’twas too late to say whether it +was the weakness or goodness of our tempers which had involved us in this +contest—but be it as it would,—he begg’d we might exchange boxes.—In +saying this, he presented his to me with one hand, as he took mine from +me in the other, and having kissed it,—with a stream of good nature in +his eyes, he put it into his bosom,—and took his leave. + +I guard this box, as I would the instrumental parts of my religion, to +help my mind on to something better: in truth, I seldom go abroad without +it; and oft and many a time have I called up by it the courteous spirit +of its owner to regulate my own, in the justlings of the world: they had +found full employment for his, as I learnt from his story, till about the +forty-fifth year of his age, when upon some military services ill +requited, and meeting at the same time with a disappointment in the +tenderest of passions, he abandoned the sword and the sex together, and +took sanctuary not so much in his convent as in himself. + +I feel a damp upon my spirits, as I am going to add, that in my last +return through Calais, upon enquiring after Father Lorenzo, I heard he +had been dead near three months, and was buried, not in his convent, but, +according to his desire, in a little cemetery belonging to it, about two +leagues off: I had a strong desire to see where they had laid him,—when, +upon pulling out his little horn box, as I sat by his grave, and plucking +up a nettle or two at the head of it, which had no business to grow +there, they all struck together so forcibly upon my affections, that I +burst into a flood of tears:—but I am as weak as a woman; and I beg the +world not to smile, but to pity me. + + + + +THE REMISE DOOR. +CALAIS. + + +I HAD never quitted the lady’s hand all this time, and had held it so +long, that it would have been indecent to have let it go, without first +pressing it to my lips: the blood and spirits, which had suffered a +revulsion from her, crowded back to her as I did it. + +Now the two travellers, who had spoke to me in the coach-yard, happening +at that crisis to be passing by, and observing our communications, +naturally took it into their heads that we must be _man and wife_ at +least; so, stopping as soon as they came up to the door of the Remise, +the one of them who was the Inquisitive Traveller, ask’d us, if we set +out for Paris the next morning?—I could only answer for myself, I said; +and the lady added, she was for Amiens.—We dined there yesterday, said +the Simple Traveller.—You go directly through the town, added the other, +in your road to Paris. I was going to return a thousand thanks for the +intelligence, _that Amiens was in the road to Paris_, but, upon pulling +out my poor monk’s little horn box to take a pinch of snuff, I made them +a quiet bow, and wishing them a good passage to Dover.—They left us +alone.— + +—Now where would be the harm, said I to myself, if I were to beg of this +distressed lady to accept of half of my chaise?—and what mighty mischief +could ensue? + +Every dirty passion, and bad propensity in my nature took the alarm, as I +stated the proposition.—It will oblige you to have a third horse, said +Avarice, which will put twenty livres out of your pocket;—You know not +what she is, said Caution;—or what scrapes the affair may draw you into, +whisper’d Cowardice.— + +Depend upon it, Yorick! said Discretion, ’twill be said you went off with +a mistress, and came by assignation to Calais for that purpose;— + +—You can never after, cried Hypocrisy aloud, show your face in the +world;—or rise, quoth Meanness, in the church;—or be any thing in it, +said Pride, but a lousy prebendary. + +But ’tis a civil thing, said I;—and as I generally act from the first +impulse, and therefore seldom listen to these cabals, which serve no +purpose, that I know of, but to encompass the heart with adamant—I turned +instantly about to the lady.— + +—But she had glided off unperceived, as the cause was pleading, and had +made ten or a dozen paces down the street, by the time I had made the +determination; so I set off after her with a long stride, to make her the +proposal, with the best address I was master of: but observing she walk’d +with her cheek half resting upon the palm of her hand,—with the slow +short-measur’d step of thoughtfulness,—and with her eyes, as she went +step by step, fixed upon the ground, it struck me she was trying the same +cause herself.—God help her! said I, she has some mother-in-law, or +tartufish aunt, or nonsensical old woman, to consult upon the occasion, +as well as myself: so not caring to interrupt the process, and deeming it +more gallant to take her at discretion than by surprise, I faced about +and took a short turn or two before the door of the Remise, whilst she +walk’d musing on one side. + + + + +IN THE STREET. +CALAIS. + + +HAVING, on the first sight of the lady, settled the affair in my fancy +“that she was of the better order of beings;”—and then laid it down as a +second axiom, as indisputable as the first, that she was a widow, and +wore a character of distress,—I went no further; I got ground enough for +the situation which pleased me;—and had she remained close beside my +elbow till midnight, I should have held true to my system, and considered +her only under that general idea. + +She had scarce got twenty paces distant from me, ere something within me +called out for a more particular enquiry;—it brought on the idea of a +further separation:—I might possibly never see her more:—The heart is for +saving what it can; and I wanted the traces through which my wishes might +find their way to her, in case I should never rejoin her myself; in a +word, I wished to know her name,—her family’s—her condition; and as I +knew the place to which she was going, I wanted to know from whence she +came: but there was no coming at all this intelligence; a hundred little +delicacies stood in the way. I form’d a score different plans.—There was +no such thing as a man’s asking her directly;—the thing was impossible. + +A little French _débonnaire_ captain, who came dancing down the street, +showed me it was the easiest thing in the world: for, popping in betwixt +us, just as the lady was returning back to the door of the Remise, he +introduced himself to my acquaintance, and before he had well got +announced, begg’d I would do him the honour to present him to the lady.—I +had not been presented myself;—so turning about to her, he did it just as +well, by asking her if she had come from Paris? No: she was going that +route, she said.—_Vous n’êtes pas de Londres_?—She was not, she +replied.—Then Madame must have come through Flanders.—_Apparemment vous +êtes Flammande_? said the French captain.—The lady answered, she +was.—_Peut être de Lisle_? added he.—She said, she was not of Lisle.—Nor +Arras?—nor Cambray?—nor Ghent?—nor Brussels?—She answered, she was of +Brussels. + +He had had the honour, he said, to be at the bombardment of it last +war;—that it was finely situated, _pour cela_,—and full of noblesse when +the Imperialists were driven out by the French (the lady made a slight +courtesy)—so giving her an account of the affair, and of the share he had +had in it,—he begg’d the honour to know her name,—so made his bow. + +—_Et Madame a son Mari_?—said he, looking back when he had made two +steps,—and, without staying for an answer—danced down the street. + +Had I served seven years apprenticeship to good breeding, I could not +have done as much. + + + + +THE REMISE. +CALAIS. + + +As the little French captain left us, Mons. Dessein came up with the key +of the Remise in his hand, and forthwith let us into his magazine of +chaises. + +The first object which caught my eye, as Mons. Dessein open’d the door of +the Remise, was another old tatter’d _désobligeant_; and notwithstanding +it was the exact picture of that which had hit my fancy so much in the +coach-yard but an hour before,—the very sight of it stirr’d up a +disagreeable sensation within me now; and I thought ’twas a churlish +beast into whose heart the idea could first enter, to construct such a +machine; nor had I much more charity for the man who could think of using +it. + +I observed the lady was as little taken with it as myself: so Mons. +Dessein led us on to a couple of chaises which stood abreast, telling us, +as he recommended them, that they had been purchased by my lord A. and B. +to go the grand tour, but had gone no further than Paris, so were in all +respects as good as new.—They were too good;—so I pass’d on to a third, +which stood behind, and forthwith begun to chaffer for the price.—But +’twill scarce hold two, said I, opening the door and getting in.—Have the +goodness, Madame, said Mons. Dessein, offering his arm, to step in.—The +lady hesitated half a second, and stepped in; and the waiter that moment +beckoning to speak to Mon. Dessein, he shut the door of the chaise upon +us, and left us. + + + + +THE REMISE. +CALAIS. + + +_C’EST bien comique_, ’tis very droll, said the lady, smiling, from the +reflection that this was the second time we had been left together by a +parcel of nonsensical contingencies,—_c’est bien comique_, said she.— + +—There wants nothing, said I, to make it so but the comic use which the +gallantry of a Frenchman would put it to,—to make love the first moment, +and an offer of his person the second. + +’Tis their _fort_, replied the lady. + +It is supposed so at least;—and how it has come to pass, continued I, I +know not; but they have certainly got the credit of understanding more of +love, and making it better than any other nation upon earth; but, for my +own part, I think them arrant bunglers, and in truth the worst set of +marksmen that ever tried Cupid’s patience. + +—To think of making love by _sentiments_! + +I should as soon think of making a genteel suit of clothes out of +remnants:—and to do it—pop—at first sight, by declaration—is submitting +the offer, and themselves with it, to be sifted with all their _pours_ +and _contres_, by an unheated mind. + +The lady attended as if she expected I should go on. + +Consider then, Madame, continued I, laying my hand upon hers:— + +That grave people hate love for the name’s sake;— + +That selfish people hate it for their own;— + +Hypocrites for heaven’s;— + +And that all of us, both old and young, being ten times worse frightened +than hurt by the very _report_,—what a want of knowledge in this branch +of commerce a man betrays, whoever lets the word come out of his lips, +till an hour or two, at least, after the time that his silence upon it +becomes tormenting. A course of small, quiet attentions, not so pointed +as to alarm,—nor so vague as to be misunderstood—with now and then a look +of kindness, and little or nothing said upon it,—leaves nature for your +mistress, and she fashions it to her mind.— + +Then I solemnly declare, said the lady, blushing, you have been making +love to me all this while. + + + + +THE REMISE. +CALAIS. + + +MONSIEUR DESSEIN came back to let us out of the chaise, and acquaint the +lady, the count de L—, her brother, was just arrived at the hotel. +Though I had infinite good will for the lady, I cannot say that I +rejoiced in my heart at the event—and could not help telling her so;—for +it is fatal to a proposal, Madame, said I, that I was going to make to +you— + +—You need not tell me what the proposal was, said she, laying her hand +upon both mine, as she interrupted me.—A man my good Sir, has seldom an +offer of kindness to make to a woman, but she has a presentiment of it +some moments before.— + +Nature arms her with it, said I, for immediate preservation.—But I think, +said she, looking in my face, I had no evil to apprehend,—and, to deal +frankly with you, had determined to accept it.—If I had—(she stopped a +moment)—I believe your good will would have drawn a story from me, which +would have made pity the only dangerous thing in the journey. + +In saying this, she suffered me to kiss her hand twice, and with a look +of sensibility mixed with concern, she got out of the chaise,—and bid +adieu. + + + + +IN THE STREET. +CALAIS. + + +I NEVER finished a twelve guinea bargain so expeditiously in my life: my +time seemed heavy, upon the loss of the lady, and knowing every moment of +it would be as two, till I put myself into motion,—I ordered post horses +directly, and walked towards the hotel. + +Lord! said I, hearing the town clock strike four, and recollecting that I +had been little more than a single hour in Calais,— + +—What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this little span +of life by him who interests his heart in every thing, and who, having +eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out to him as he +journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he can _fairly_ lay his hands on! + +—If this won’t turn out something,—another will;—no matter,—’tis an assay +upon human nature—I get my labour for my pains,—’tis enough;—the pleasure +of the experiment has kept my senses and the best part of my blood awake, +and laid the gross to sleep. + +I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and cry, ’Tis all +barren;—and so it is: and so is all the world to him who will not +cultivate the fruits it offers. I declare, said I, clapping my hands +cheerily together, that were I in a desert, I would find out wherewith in +it to call forth my affections:—if I could not do better, I would fasten +them upon some sweet myrtle, or seek some melancholy cypress to connect +myself to;—I would court their shade, and greet them kindly for their +protection.—I would cut my name upon them, and swear they were the +loveliest trees throughout the desert: if their leaves wither’d, I would +teach myself to mourn; and, when they rejoiced, I would rejoice along +with them. + +The learned Smelfungus travelled from Boulogne to Paris,—from Paris to +Rome,—and so on;—but he set out with the spleen and jaundice, and every +object he pass’d by was discoloured or distorted.—He wrote an account of +them, but ’twas nothing but the account of his miserable feelings. + +I met Smelfungus in the grand portico of the Pantheon:—he was just coming +out of it.—’_Tis nothing but a huge cockpit_, {580} said he:—I wish you +had said nothing worse of the Venus of Medicis, replied I;—for in passing +through Florence, I had heard he had fallen foul upon the goddess, and +used her worse than a common strumpet, without the least provocation in +nature. + +I popp’d upon Smelfungus again at Turin, in his return home; and a sad +tale of sorrowful adventures had he to tell, “wherein he spoke of moving +accidents by flood and field, and of the cannibals that each other eat: +the Anthropophagi:”—he had been flayed alive, and bedevil’d, and used +worse than St. Bartholomew, at every stage he had come at.— + +—I’ll tell it, cried Smelfungus, to the world. You had better tell it, +said I, to your physician. + +Mundungus, with an immense fortune, made the whole tour; going on from +Rome to Naples,—from Naples to Venice,—from Venice to Vienna,—to Dresden, +to Berlin, without one generous connection or pleasurable anecdote to +tell of; but he had travell’d straight on, looking neither to his right +hand nor his left, lest Love or Pity should seduce him out of his road. + +Peace be to them! if it is to be found; but heaven itself, were it +possible to get there with such tempers, would want objects to give it; +every gentle spirit would come flying upon the wings of Love to hail +their arrival.—Nothing would the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus hear +of, but fresh anthems of joy, fresh raptures of love, and fresh +congratulations of their common felicity.—I heartily pity them; they have +brought up no faculties for this work; and, were the happiest mansion in +heaven to be allotted to Smelfungus and Mundungus, they would be so far +from being happy, that the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus would do +penance there to all eternity! + + + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I HAD once lost my portmanteau from behind my chaise, and twice got out +in the rain, and one of the times up to the knees in dirt, to help the +postilion to tie it on, without being able to find out what was +wanting.—Nor was it till I got to Montreuil, upon the landlord’s asking +me if I wanted not a servant, that it occurred to me, that that was the +very thing. + +A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I.—Because, Monsieur, said the +landlord, there is a clever young fellow, who would be very proud of the +honour to serve an Englishman.—But why an English one, more than any +other?—They are so generous, said the landlord.—I’ll be shot if this is +not a livre out of my pocket, quoth I to myself, this very night.—But +they have wherewithal to be so, Monsieur, added he.—Set down one livre +more for that, quoth I.—It was but last night, said the landlord, _qu’un +milord Anglois présentoit un écu à la fille de chambre_.—_Tant pis pour +Mademoiselle Janatone_, said I. + +Now Janatone, being the landlord’s daughter, and the landlord supposing I +was young in French, took the liberty to inform me, I should not have +said _tant pis_—but, _tant mieux_. _Tant mieux_, _toujours_, _Monsieur_, +said he, when there is any thing to be got—_tant pis_, when there is +nothing. It comes to the same thing, said I. _Pardonnez-moi_, said the +landlord. + +I cannot take a fitter opportunity to observe, once for all, that _tant +pis_ and _tant mieux_, being two of the great hinges in French +conversation, a stranger would do well to set himself right in the use of +them, before he gets to Paris. + +A prompt French marquis at our ambassador’s table demanded of Mr. H—, if +he was H— the poet? No, said Mr. H—, mildly.—_Tant pis_, replied the +marquis. + +It is H— the historian, said another,—_Tant mieux_, said the marquis. +And Mr. H—, who is a man of an excellent heart, return’d thanks for both. + +When the landlord had set me right in this matter, he called in La Fleur, +which was the name of the young man he had spoke of,—saying only first, +That as for his talents he would presume to say nothing,—Monsieur was the +best judge what would suit him; but for the fidelity of La Fleur he would +stand responsible in all he was worth. + +The landlord deliver’d this in a manner which instantly set my mind to +the business I was upon;—and La Fleur, who stood waiting without, in that +breathless expectation which every son of nature of us have felt in our +turns, came in. + + + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I AM apt to be taken with all kinds of people at first sight; but never +more so than when a poor devil comes to offer his service to so poor a +devil as myself; and as I know this weakness, I always suffer my judgment +to draw back something on that very account,—and this more or less, +according to the mood I am in, and the case;—and I may add, the gender +too, of the person I am to govern. + +When La Fleur entered the room, after every discount I could make for my +soul, the genuine look and air of the fellow determined the matter at +once in his favour; so I hired him first,—and then began to enquire what +he could do: But I shall find out his talents, quoth I, as I want +them,—besides, a Frenchman can do every thing. + +Now poor La Fleur could do nothing in the world but beat a drum, and play +a march or two upon the fife. I was determined to make his talents do; +and can’t say my weakness was ever so insulted by my wisdom as in the +attempt. + +La Fleur had set out early in life, as gallantly as most Frenchmen do, +with _serving_ for a few years; at the end of which, having satisfied the +sentiment, and found, moreover, That the honour of beating a drum was +likely to be its own reward, as it open’d no further track of glory to +him,—he retired _à ses terres_, and lived _comme il plaisoit à +Dieu_;—that is to say, upon nothing. + +—And so, quoth Wisdom, you have hired a drummer to attend you in this +tour of yours through France and Italy!—Psha! said I, and do not one half +of our gentry go with a humdrum _compagnon du voyage_ the same round, and +have the piper and the devil and all to pay besides? When man can +extricate himself with an _équivoque_ in such an unequal match,—he is not +ill off.—But you can do something else, La Fleur? said I.—_O qu’oui_! he +could make spatterdashes, and play a little upon the fiddle.—Bravo! said +Wisdom.—Why, I play a bass myself, said I;—we shall do very well. You +can shave, and dress a wig a little, La Fleur?—He had all the +dispositions in the world.—It is enough for heaven! said I, interrupting +him,—and ought to be enough for me.—So, supper coming in, and having a +frisky English spaniel on one side of my chair, and a French valet, with +as much hilarity in his countenance as ever Nature painted in one, on the +other,—I was satisfied to my heart’s content with my empire; and if +monarchs knew what they would be at, they might be as satisfied as I was. + + + + +MONTREUIL. + + +AS La Fleur went the whole tour of France and Italy with me, and will be +often upon the stage, I must interest the reader a little further in his +behalf, by saying, that I had never less reason to repent of the impulses +which generally do determine me, than in regard to this fellow;—he was a +faithful, affectionate, simple soul as ever trudged after the heels of a +philosopher; and, notwithstanding his talents of drum beating and +spatterdash-making, which, though very good in themselves, happened to be +of no great service to me, yet was I hourly recompensed by the festivity +of his temper;—it supplied all defects:—I had a constant resource in his +looks in all difficulties and distresses of my own—I was going to have +added of his too; but La Fleur was out of the reach of every thing; for, +whether ’twas hunger or thirst, or cold or nakedness, or watchings, or +whatever stripes of ill luck La Fleur met with in our journeyings, there +was no index in his physiognomy to point them out by,—he was eternally +the same; so that if I am a piece of a philosopher, which Satan now and +then puts it into my head I am,—it always mortifies the pride of the +conceit, by reflecting how much I owe to the complexional philosophy of +this poor fellow, for shaming me into one of a better kind. With all +this, La Fleur had a small cast of the coxcomb,—but he seemed at first +sight to be more a coxcomb of nature than of art; and, before I had been +three days in Paris with him,—he seemed to be no coxcomb at all. + + + + +MONTREUIL. + + +THE next morning, La Fleur entering upon his employment, I delivered to +him the key of my portmanteau, with an inventory of my half a dozen +shirts and silk pair of breeches, and bid him fasten all upon the +chaise,—get the horses put to,—and desire the landlord to come in with +his bill. + +_C’est un garcon de bonne fortune_, said the landlord, pointing through +the window to half a dozen wenches who had got round about La Fleur, and +were most kindly taking their leave of him, as the postilion was leading +out the horses. La Fleur kissed all their hands round and round again, +and thrice he wiped his eyes, and thrice he promised he would bring them +all pardons from Rome. + +—The young fellow, said the landlord, is beloved by all the town, and +there is scarce a corner in Montreuil where the want of him will not be +felt: he has but one misfortune in the world, continued he, “he is always +in love.”—I am heartily glad of it, said I,—’twill save me the trouble +every night of putting my breeches under my head. In saying this, I was +making not so much La Fleur’s eloge as my own, having been in love with +one princess or another almost all my life, and I hope I shall go on so +till I die, being firmly persuaded, that if ever I do a mean action, it +must be in some interval betwixt one passion and another: whilst this +interregnum lasts, I always perceive my heart locked up,—I can scarce +find in it to give Misery a sixpence; and therefore I always get out of +it as fast as I can—and the moment I am rekindled, I am all generosity +and good-will again; and would do anything in the world, either for or +with any one, if they will but satisfy me there is no sin in it. + +—But in saying this,—sure I am commanding the passion,—not myself. + + + + +A FRAGMENT. + + +—THE town of Abdera, notwithstanding Democritus lived there, trying all +the powers of irony and laughter to reclaim it, was the vilest and most +profligate town in all Thrace. What for poisons, conspiracies, and +assassinations,—libels, pasquinades, and tumults, there was no going +there by day—’twas worse by night. + +Now, when things were at the worst, it came to pass that the Andromeda of +Euripides being represented at Abdera, the whole orchestra was delighted +with it: but of all the passages which delighted them, nothing operated +more upon their imaginations than the tender strokes of nature which the +poet had wrought up in that pathetic speech of Perseus, _O Cupid_, +_prince of gods and men_! &c. Every man almost spoke pure iambics the +next day, and talked of nothing but Perseus his pathetic address,—“_O +Cupid! prince of gods and men_!”—in every street of Abdera, in every +house, “O Cupid! Cupid!”—in every mouth, like the natural notes of some +sweet melody which drop from it, whether it will or no,—nothing but +“Cupid! Cupid! prince of gods and men!”—The fire caught—and the whole +city, like the heart of one man, open’d itself to Love. + +No pharmacopolist could sell one grain of hellebore,—not a single +armourer had a heart to forge one instrument of death;—Friendship and +Virtue met together, and kiss’d each other in the street; the golden age +returned, and hung over the town of Abdera—every Abderite took his eaten +pipe, and every Abderitish woman left her purple web, and chastely sat +her down and listened to the song. + +’Twas only in the power, says the Fragment, of the God whose empire +extendeth from heaven to earth, and even to the depths of the sea, to +have done this. + + + + +MONTREUIL. + + +WHEN all is ready, and every article is disputed and paid for in the inn, +unless you are a little sour’d by the adventure, there is always a matter +to compound at the door, before you can get into your chaise; and that is +with the sons and daughters of poverty, who surround you. Let no man +say, “Let them go to the devil!”—’tis a cruel journey to send a few +miserables, and they have had sufferings enow without it: I always think +it better to take a few sous out in my hand; and I would counsel every +gentle traveller to do so likewise: he need not be so exact in setting +down his motives for giving them;—They will be registered elsewhere. + +For my own part, there is no man gives so little as I do; for few, that I +know, have so little to give; but as this was the first public act of my +charity in France, I took the more notice of it. + +A well-a-way! said I,—I have but eight sous in the world, showing them in +my hand, and there are eight poor men and eight poor women for ’em. + +A poor tatter’d soul, without a shirt on, instantly withdrew his claim, +by retiring two steps out of the circle, and making a disqualifying bow +on his part. Had the whole _parterre_ cried out, _Place aux dames_, with +one voice, it would not have conveyed the sentiment of a deference for +the sex with half the effect. + +Just Heaven! for what wise reasons hast thou ordered it, that beggary and +urbanity, which are at such variance in other countries, should find a +way to be at unity in this? + +—I insisted upon presenting him with a single sous, merely for his +_politesse_. + +A poor little dwarfish brisk fellow, who stood over against me in the +circle, putting something first under his arm, which had once been a hat, +took his snuff-box out of his pocket, and generously offer’d a pinch on +both sides of him: it was a gift of consequence, and modestly +declined.—The poor little fellow pressed it upon them with a nod of +welcomeness.—_Prenez en—prenez_, said he, looking another way; so they +each took a pinch.—Pity thy box should ever want one! said I to myself; +so I put a couple of sous into it—taking a small pinch out of his box, to +enhance their value, as I did it. He felt the weight of the second +obligation more than of the first,—’twas doing him an honour,—the other +was only doing him a charity;—and he made me a bow down to the ground for +it. + +—Here! said I to an old soldier with one hand, who had been campaigned +and worn out to death in the service—here’s a couple of sous for +thee.—_Vive le Roi_! said the old soldier. + +I had then but three sous left: so I gave one, simply, _pour l’amour de +Dieu_, which was the footing on which it was begg’d.—The poor woman had a +dislocated hip; so it could not be well upon any other motive. + +_Mon cher et très-charitable Monsieur_.—There’s no opposing this, said I. + +_Milord Anglois_—the very sound was worth the money;—so I gave _my last +sous for it_. But in the eagerness of giving, I had overlooked a _pauvre +honteux_, who had had no one to ask a sous for him, and who, I believe, +would have perished, ere he could have ask’d one for himself: he stood by +the chaise a little without the circle, and wiped a tear from a face +which I thought had seen better days.—Good God! said I—and I have not one +single sous left to give him.—But you have a thousand! cried all the +powers of nature, stirring within me;—so I gave him—no matter what—I am +ashamed to say _how much_ now,—and was ashamed to think how little, then: +so, if the reader can form any conjecture of my disposition, as these two +fixed points are given him, he may judge within a livre or two what was +the precise sum. + +I could afford nothing for the rest, but _Dieu vous bénisse_! + +—_Et le bon Dieu vous bénisse encore_, said the old soldier, the dwarf, +&c. The _pauvre honteux_ could say nothing;—he pull’d out a little +handkerchief, and wiped his face as he turned away—and I thought he +thanked me more than them all. + + + + +THE BIDET. + + +HAVING settled all these little matters, I got into my post-chaise with +more ease than ever I got into a post-chaise in my life; and La Fleur +having got one large jack-boot on the far side of a little _bidet_, {588} +and another on this (for I count nothing of his legs)—he canter’d away +before me as happy and as perpendicular as a prince.—But what is +happiness! what is grandeur in this painted scene of life! A dead ass, +before we had got a league, put a sudden stop to La Fleur’s career;—his +bidet would not pass by it,—a contention arose betwixt them, and the poor +fellow was kick’d out of his jack-boots the very first kick. + +La Fleur bore his fall like a French Christian, saying neither more nor +less upon it, than _Diable_! So presently got up, and came to the charge +again astride his bidet, beating him up to it as he would have beat his +drum. + +The bidet flew from one side of the road to the other, then back +again,—then this way, then that way, and in short, every way but by the +dead ass:—La Fleur insisted upon the thing—and the bidet threw him. + +What’s the matter, La Fleur, said I, with this bidet of thine? Monsieur, +said he, _c’est un cheval le plus opiniâtre du monde_.—Nay, if he is a +conceited beast, he must go his own way, replied I. So La Fleur got off +him, and giving him a good sound lash, the bidet took me at my word, and +away he scampered back to Montreuil.—_Peste_! said La Fleur. + +It is not _mal-à-propos_ to take notice here, that though La Fleur +availed himself but of two different terms of exclamation in this +encounter,—namely, _Diable_! and _Peste_! that there are, nevertheless, +three in the French language: like the positive, comparative, and +superlative, one or the other of which serves for every unexpected throw +of the dice in life. + +_Le Diable_! which is the first, and positive degree, is generally used +upon ordinary emotions of the mind, where small things only fall out +contrary to your expectations; such as—the throwing once doublets—La +Fleur’s being kick’d off his horse, and so forth.—Cuckoldom, for the same +reason, is always—_Le Diable_! + +But, in cases where the cast has something provoking in it, as in that of +the bidet’s running away after, and leaving La Fleur aground in +jack-boots,—’tis the second degree. + +’Tis then _Peste_! + +And for the third— + +—But here my heart is wrung with pity and fellow feeling, when I reflect +what miseries must have been their lot, and how bitterly so refined a +people must have smarted, to have forced them upon the use of it.— + +Grant me, O ye powers which touch the tongue with eloquence in +distress!—what ever is my _cast_, grant me but decent words to exclaim +in, and I will give my nature way. + +—But as these were not to be had in France, I resolved to take every evil +just as it befell me, without any exclamation at all. + +La Fleur, who had made no such covenant with himself, followed the bidet +with his eyes till it was got out of sight,—and then, you may imagine, if +you please, with what word he closed the whole affair. + +As there was no hunting down a frightened horse in jack-boots, there +remained no alternative but taking La Fleur either behind the chaise, or +into it.— + +I preferred the latter, and in half an hour we got to the post-house at +Nampont. + + + + +NAMPONT. +THE DEAD ASS. + + +—AND this, said he, putting the remains of a crust into his wallet—and +this should have been thy portion, said he, hadst thou been alive to have +shared it with me.—I thought, by the accent, it had been an apostrophe to +his child; but ’twas to his ass, and to the very ass we had seen dead in +the road, which had occasioned La Fleur’s misadventure. The man seemed +to lament it much; and it instantly brought into my mind Sancho’s +lamentation for his; but he did it with more true touches of nature. + +The mourner was sitting upon a stone bench at the door, with the ass’s +pannel and its bridle on one side, which he took up from time to +time,—then laid them down,—look’d at them, and shook his head. He then +took his crust of bread out of his wallet again, as if to eat it; held it +some time in his hand,—then laid it upon the bit of his ass’s +bridle,—looked wistfully at the little arrangement he had made—and then +gave a sigh. + +The simplicity of his grief drew numbers about him, and La Fleur amongst +the rest, whilst the horses were getting ready; as I continued sitting in +the post-chaise, I could see and hear over their heads. + +—He said he had come last from Spain, where he had been from the furthest +borders of Franconia; and had got so far on his return home, when his ass +died. Every one seemed desirous to know what business could have taken +so old and poor a man so far a journey from his own home. + +It had pleased heaven, he said, to bless him with three sons, the finest +lads in Germany; but having in one week lost two of the eldest of them by +the small-pox, and the youngest falling ill of the same distemper, he was +afraid of being bereft of them all; and made a vow, if heaven would not +take him from him also, he would go in gratitude to St. Iago in Spain. + +When the mourner got thus far on his story, he stopp’d to pay Nature her +tribute,—and wept bitterly. + +He said, heaven had accepted the conditions; and that he had set out from +his cottage with this poor creature, who had been a patient partner of +his journey;—that it had eaten the same bread with him all the way, and +was unto him as a friend. + +Every body who stood about, heard the poor fellow with concern.—La Fleur +offered him money.—The mourner said he did not want it;—it was not the +value of the ass—but the loss of him.—The ass, he said, he was assured, +loved him;—and upon this told them a long story of a mischance upon their +passage over the Pyrenean mountains, which had separated them from each +other three days; during which time the ass had sought him as much as he +had sought the ass, and that they had scarce either eaten or drank till +they met. + +Thou hast one comfort, friend, said I, at least, in the loss of thy poor +beast; I’m sure thou hast been a merciful master to him.—Alas! said the +mourner, I thought so when he was alive;—but now that he is dead, I think +otherwise.—I fear the weight of myself and my afflictions together have +been too much for him,—they have shortened the poor creature’s days, and +I fear I have them to answer for.—Shame on the world! said I to +myself.—Did we but love each other as this poor soul loved his +ass—’twould be something.— + + + + +NAMPONT. +THE POSTILION. + + +THE concern which the poor fellow’s story threw me into required some +attention; the postilion paid not the least to it, but set off upon the +_pavé_ in a full gallop. + +The thirstiest soul in the most sandy desert of Arabia could not have +wished more for a cup of cold water, than mine did for grave and quiet +movements; and I should have had an high opinion of the postilion had he +but stolen off with me in something like a pensive pace.—On the contrary, +as the mourner finished his lamentation, the fellow gave an unfeeling +lash to each of his beasts, and set off clattering like a thousand +devils. + +I called to him as loud as I could, for heaven’s sake to go slower:—and +the louder I called, the more unmercifully he galloped.—The deuce take +him and his galloping too—said I,—he’ll go on tearing my nerves to pieces +till he has worked me into a foolish passion, and then he’ll go slow that +I may enjoy the sweets of it. + +The postilion managed the point to a miracle: by the time he had got to +the foot of a steep hill, about half a league from Nampont,—he had put me +out of temper with him,—and then with myself, for being so. + +My case then required a different treatment; and a good rattling gallop +would have been of real service to me.— + +—Then, prithee, get on—get on, my good lad, said I. + +The postilion pointed to the hill.—I then tried to return back to the +story of the poor German and his ass—but I had broke the clue,—and could +no more get into it again, than the postilion could into a trot. + +—The deuce go, said I, with it all! Here am I sitting as candidly +disposed to make the best of the worst, as ever wight was, and all runs +counter. + +There is one sweet lenitive at least for evils, which Nature holds out to +us: so I took it kindly at her hands, and fell asleep; and the first word +which roused me was _Amiens_. + +—Bless me! said I, rubbing my eyes,—this is the very town where my poor +lady is to come. + + + + +AMIENS. + + +THE words were scarce out of my mouth when the Count de L—’s post-chaise, +with his sister in it, drove hastily by: she had just time to make me a +bow of recognition,—and of that particular kind of it, which told me she +had not yet done with me. She was as good as her look; for, before I had +quite finished my supper, her brother’s servant came into the room with a +billet, in which she said she had taken the liberty to charge me with a +letter, which I was to present myself to Madame R— the first morning I +had nothing to do at Paris. There was only added, she was sorry, but +from what _penchant_ she had not considered, that she had been prevented +telling me her story,—that she still owed it to me; and if my route +should ever lay through Brussels, and I had not by then forgot the name +of Madame de L—,—that Madame de L— would be glad to discharge her +obligation. + +Then I will meet thee, said I, fair spirit! at Brussels;—’tis only +returning from Italy through Germany to Holland, by the route of +Flanders, home;—’twill scarce be ten posts out of my way; but, were it +ten thousand! with what a moral delight will it crown my journey, in +sharing in the sickening incidents of a tale of misery told to me by such +a sufferer? To see her weep! and, though I cannot dry up the fountain of +her tears, what an exquisite sensation is there still left, in wiping +them away from off the cheeks of the first and fairest of women, as I’m +sitting with my handkerchief in my hand in silence the whole night beside +her? + +There was nothing wrong in the sentiment; and yet I instantly reproached +my heart with it in the bitterest and most reprobate of expressions. + +It had ever, as I told the reader, been one of the singular blessings of +my life, to be almost every hour of it miserably in love with some one; +and my last flame happening to be blown out by a whiff of jealousy on the +sudden turn of a corner, I had lighted it up afresh at the pure taper of +Eliza but about three months before,—swearing, as I did it, that it +should last me through the whole journey.—Why should I dissemble the +matter? I had sworn to her eternal fidelity;—she had a right to my whole +heart:—to divide my affections was to lessen them;—to expose them was to +risk them: where there is risk there may be loss:—and what wilt thou +have, Yorick, to answer to a heart so full of trust and confidence—so +good, so gentle, and unreproaching! + +—I will not go to Brussels, replied I, interrupting myself.—But my +imagination went on,—I recalled her looks at that crisis of our +separation, when neither of us had power to say adieu! I look’d at the +picture she had tied in a black riband about my neck,—and blush’d as I +look’d at it.—I would have given the world to have kiss’d it,—but was +ashamed.—And shall this tender flower, said I, pressing it between my +hands,—shall it be smitten to its very root,—and smitten, Yorick! by +thee, who hast promised to shelter it in thy breast? + +Eternal Fountain of Happiness! said I, kneeling down upon the ground,—be +thou my witness—and every pure spirit which tastes it, be my witness +also, That I would not travel to Brussels, unless Eliza went along with +me, did the road lead me towards heaven! + +In transports of this kind, the heart, in spite of the understanding, +will always say too much. + + + + +THE LETTER. +AMIENS. + + +FORTUNE had not smiled upon La Fleur; for he had been unsuccessful in his +feats of chivalry,—and not one thing had offered to signalise his zeal +for my service from the time that he had entered into it, which was +almost four-and-twenty hours. The poor soul burn’d with impatience; and +the Count de L—’s servant coming with the letter, being the first +practicable occasion which offer’d, La Fleur had laid hold of it; and, in +order to do honour to his master, had taken him into a back parlour in +the auberge, and treated him with a cup or two of the best wine in +Picardy; and the Count de L—’s servant, in return, and not to be +behindhand in politeness with La Fleur, had taken him back with him to +the Count’s hotel. La Fleur’s _prevenancy_ (for there was a passport in +his very looks) soon set every servant in the kitchen at ease with him; +and as a Frenchman, whatever be his talents, has no sort of prudery in +showing them, La Fleur, in less than five minutes, had pulled out his +fife, and leading off the dance himself with the first note, set the +_fille de chambre_, the _maître d’hôtel_, the cook, the scullion, and all +the house-hold, dogs and cats, besides an old monkey, a dancing: I +suppose there never was a merrier kitchen since the flood. + +Madame de L—, in passing from her brother’s apartments to her own, +hearing so much jollity below stairs, rung up her _fille de chambre_ to +ask about it; and, hearing it was the English gentleman’s servant, who +had set the whole house merry with his pipe, she ordered him up. + +As the poor fellow could not present himself empty, he had loaded himself +in going up stairs with a thousand compliments to Madame de L—, on the +part of his master,—added a long apocrypha of inquiries after Madame de +L—’s health,—told her, that Monsieur his master was _au désespoire_ for +her re-establishment from the fatigues of her journey,—and, to close all, +that Monsieur had received the letter which Madame had done him the +honour—And he has done me the honour, said Madame de L—, interrupting La +Fleur, to send a billet in return. + +Madame de L— had said this with such a tone of reliance upon the fact, +that La Fleur had not power to disappoint her expectations;—he trembled +for my honour,—and possibly might not altogether be unconcerned for his +own, as a man capable of being attached to a master who could be wanting +_en égards vis à vis d’une femme_! so that when Madame de L— asked La +Fleur if he had brought a letter,—_O qu’oui_, said La Fleur: so laying +down his hat upon the ground, and taking hold of the flap of his right +side pocket with his left hand, he began to search for the letter with +his right;—then contrariwise.—_Diable_! then sought every pocket—pocket +by pocket, round, not forgetting his fob:—_Peste_!—then La Fleur emptied +them upon the floor,—pulled out a dirty cravat,—a handkerchief,—a comb,—a +whip lash,—a nightcap,—then gave a peep into his hat,—_Quelle +étourderie_! He had left the letter upon the table in the auberge;—he +would run for it, and be back with it in three minutes. + +I had just finished my supper when La Fleur came in to give me an account +of his adventure: he told the whole story simply as it was: and only +added that if Monsieur had forgot (_par hazard_) to answer Madame’s +letter, the arrangement gave him an opportunity to recover the _faux +pas_;—and if not, that things were only as they were. + +Now I was not altogether sure of my _étiquette_, whether I ought to have +wrote or no;—but if I had,—a devil himself could not have been angry: +’twas but the officious zeal of a well meaning creature for my honour; +and, however he might have mistook the road,—or embarrassed me in so +doing,—his heart was in no fault,—I was under no necessity to write;—and, +what weighed more than all,—he did not look as if he had done amiss. + +—’Tis all very well, La Fleur, said I.—’Twas sufficient. La Fleur flew +out of the room like lightning, and returned with pen, ink, and paper, in +his hand; and, coming up to the table, laid them close before me, with +such a delight in his countenance, that I could not help taking up the +pen. + +I began and began again; and, though I had nothing to say, and that +nothing might have been expressed in half a dozen lines, I made half a +dozen different beginnings, and could no way please myself. + +In short, I was in no mood to write. + +La Fleur stepp’d out and brought a little water in a glass to dilute my +ink,—then fetch’d sand and seal-wax.—It was all one; I wrote, and +blotted, and tore off, and burnt, and wrote again.—_Le diable l’emporte_! +said I, half to myself,—I cannot write this self-same letter, throwing +the pen down despairingly as I said it. + +As soon as I had cast down my pen, La Fleur advanced with the most +respectful carriage up to the table, and making a thousand apologies for +the liberty he was going to take, told me he had a letter in his pocket +wrote by a drummer in his regiment to a corporal’s wife, which he durst +say would suit the occasion. + +I had a mind to let the poor fellow have his humour.—Then prithee, said +I, let me see it. + +La Fleur instantly pulled out a little dirty pocket book cramm’d full of +small letters and billet-doux in a sad condition, and laying it upon the +table, and then untying the string which held them all together, run them +over, one by one, till he came to the letter in question,—_La voila_! +said he, clapping his hands: so, unfolding it first, he laid it open +before me, and retired three steps from the table whilst I read it. + + + + +THE LETTER. + + +Madame, + +Je suis pénétré de la douleur la plus vive, et réduit en même temps au +désespoir par ce retour imprévù du Caporal qui rend notre entrevûe de ce +soir la chose du monde la plus impossible. + +Mais vive la joie! et toute la mienne sera de penser à vous. + +L’amour n’est _rien_ sans sentiment. + +Et le sentiment est encore _moins_ sans amour. + +On dit qu’on ne doit jamais se désesperér. + +On dit aussi que Monsieur le Caporal monte la garde Mercredi: alors ce +cera mon tour. + + _Chacun à son tour_. + +En attendant—Vive l’amour! et vive la bagatelle! + + Je suis, Madame, + Avec tous les sentimens les plus + respectueux et les plus tendres, + tout à vous, + JAQUES ROQUE. + +It was but changing the Corporal into the Count,—and saying nothing about +mounting guard on Wednesday,—and the letter was neither right nor +wrong:—so, to gratify the poor fellow, who stood trembling for my honour, +his own, and the honour of his letter,—I took the cream gently off it, +and whipping it up in my own way, I seal’d it up and sent him with it to +Madame de L—;—and the next morning we pursued our journey to Paris. + + + + +PARIS. + + +WHEN a man can contest the point by dint of equipage, and carry all on +floundering before him with half a dozen of lackies and a couple of +cooks—’tis very well in such a place as Paris,—he may drive in at which +end of a street he will. + +A poor prince who is weak in cavalry, and whose whole infantry does not +exceed a single man, had best quit the field, and signalize himself in +the cabinet, if he can get up into it;—I say _up into it_—for there is no +descending perpendicular amongst ’em with a “_Me voici_! _mes +enfans_”—here I am—whatever many may think. + +I own my first sensations, as soon as I was left solitary and alone in my +own chamber in the hotel, were far from being so flattering as I had +prefigured them. I walked up gravely to the window in my dusty black +coat, and looking through the glass saw all the world in yellow, blue, +and green, running at the ring of pleasure.—The old with broken lances, +and in helmets which had lost their vizards;—the young in armour bright +which shone like gold, beplumed with each gay feather of the +east,—all,—all, tilting at it like fascinated knights in tournaments of +yore for fame and love.— + +Alas, poor Yorick! cried I, what art thou doing here? On the very first +onset of all this glittering clatter thou art reduced to an +atom;—seek,—seek some winding alley, with a tourniquet at the end of it, +where chariot never rolled or flambeau shot its rays;—there thou mayest +solace thy soul in converse sweet with some kind grisette of a barber’s +wife, and get into such coteries!— + +—May I perish! if I do, said I, pulling out the letter which I had to +present to Madame de R—.—I’ll wait upon this lady, the very first thing I +do. So I called La Fleur to go seek me a barber directly,—and come back +and brush my coat. + + + + +THE WIG. +PARIS. + + +WHEN the barber came, he absolutely refused to have any thing to do with +my wig: ’twas either above or below his art: I had nothing to do but to +take one ready made of his own recommendation. + +—But I fear, friend! said I, this buckle won’t stand.—You may emerge it, +replied he, into the ocean, and it will stand.— + +What a great scale is every thing upon in this city thought I.—The utmost +stretch of an English periwig-maker’s ideas could have gone no further +than to have “dipped it into a pail of water.”—What difference! ’tis like +Time to Eternity! + +I confess I do hate all cold conceptions, as I do the puny ideas which +engender them; and am generally so struck with the great works of nature, +that for my own part, if I could help it, I never would make a comparison +less than a mountain at least. All that can be said against the French +sublime, in this instance of it, is this:—That the grandeur is _more_ in +the _word_, and _less_ in the _thing_. No doubt, the ocean fills the +mind with vast ideas; but Paris being so far inland, it was not likely I +should run post a hundred miles out of it, to try the experiment;—the +Parisian barber meant nothing.— + +The pail of water standing beside the great deep, makes, certainly, but a +sorry figure in speech;—but, ’twill be said,—it has one advantage—’tis in +the next room, and the truth of the buckle may be tried in it, without +more ado, in a single moment. + +In honest truth, and upon a more candid revision of the matter, _The +French expression professes more than it performs_. + +I think I can see the precise and distinguishing marks of national +characters more in these nonsensical _minutiæ_ than in the most important +matters of state; where great men of all nations talk and stalk so much +alike, that I would not give ninepence to choose amongst them. + +I was so long in getting from under my barber’s hands, that it was too +late to think of going with my letter to Madame R— that night: but when a +man is once dressed at all points for going out, his reflections turn to +little account; so taking down the name of the Hôtel de Modene, where I +lodged, I walked forth without any determination where to go;—I shall +consider of that, said I, as I walk along. + + + + +THE PULSE. +PARIS. + + +HAIL, ye small sweet courtesies of life, for smooth do ye make the road +of it! like grace and beauty, which beget inclinations to love at first +sight: ’tis ye who open this door and let the stranger in. + +—Pray, Madame, said I, have the goodness to tell me which way I must turn +to go to the Opéra Comique?—Most willingly, Monsieur, said she, laying +aside her work.— + +I had given a cast with my eye into half a dozen shops, as I came along, +in search of a face not likely to be disordered by such an interruption: +till at last, this, hitting my fancy, I had walked in. + +She was working a pair of ruffles, as she sat in a low chair, on the far +side of the shop, facing the door. + +—_Très volontiers_, most willingly, said she, laying her work down upon a +chair next her, and rising up from the low chair she was sitting in, with +so cheerful a movement, and so cheerful a look, that had I been laying +out fifty louis d’ors with her, I should have said—“This woman is +grateful.” + +You must turn, Monsieur, said she, going with me to the door of the shop, +and pointing the way down the street I was to take,—you must turn first +to your left hand,—_mais prenez garde_—there are two turns; and be so +good as to take the second—then go down a little way and you’ll see a +church: and, when you are past it, give yourself the trouble to turn +directly to the right, and that will lead you to the foot of the Pont +Neuf, which you must cross—and there any one will do himself the pleasure +to show you.— + +She repeated her instructions three times over to me, with the same +goodnatur’d patience the third time as the first;—and if _tones and +manners_ have a meaning, which certainly they have, unless to hearts +which shut them out,—she seemed really interested that I should not lose +myself. + +I will not suppose it was the woman’s beauty, notwithstanding she was the +handsomest grisette, I think, I ever saw, which had much to do with the +sense I had of her courtesy; only I remember, when I told her how much I +was obliged to her, that I looked very full in her eyes,—and that I +repeated my thanks as often as she had done her instructions. + +I had not got ten paces from the door, before I found I had forgot every +tittle of what she had said;—so looking back, and seeing her still +standing in the door of the shop, as if to look whether I went right or +not,—I returned back to ask her, whether the first turn was to my right +or left,—for that I had absolutely forgot.—Is it possible! said she, half +laughing. ’Tis very possible, replied I, when a man is thinking more of +a woman than of her good advice. + +As this was the real truth—she took it, as every woman takes a matter of +right, with a slight curtsey. + +—_Attendez_! said she, laying her hand upon my arm to detain me, whilst +she called a lad out of the back shop to get ready a parcel of gloves. I +am just going to send him, said she, with a packet into that quarter, and +if you will have the complaisance to step in, it will be ready in a +moment, and he shall attend you to the place.—So I walk’d in with her to +the far side of the shop: and taking up the ruffle in my hand which she +laid upon the chair, as if I had a mind to sit, she sat down herself in +her low chair, and I instantly sat myself down beside her. + +—He will be ready, Monsieur, said she, in a moment.—And in that moment, +replied I, most willingly would I say something very civil to you for all +these courtesies. Any one may do a casual act of good nature, but a +continuation of them shows it is a part of the temperature; and +certainly, added I, if it is the same blood which comes from the heart +which descends to the extremes (touching her wrist) I am sure you must +have one of the best pulses of any woman in the world.—Feel it, said she, +holding out her arm. So laying down my hat, I took hold of her fingers +in one hand, and applied the two forefingers of my other to the artery.— + +—Would to heaven! my dear Eugenius, thou hadst passed by, and beheld me +sitting in my black coat, and in my lack-a-day-sical manner, counting the +throbs of it, one by one, with as much true devotion as if I had been +watching the critical ebb or flow of her fever.—How wouldst thou have +laugh’d and moralized upon my new profession!—and thou shouldst have +laugh’d and moralized on.—Trust me, my dear Eugenius, I should have said, +“There are worse occupations in this world _than feeling a woman’s +pulse_.”—But a grisette’s! thou wouldst have said,—and in an open shop! +Yorick— + +—So much the better: for when my views are direct, Eugenius, I care not +if all the world saw me feel it. + + + + +THE HUSBAND. +PARIS. + + +I HAD counted twenty pulsations, and was going on fast towards the +fortieth, when her husband, coming unexpected from a back parlour into +the shop, put me a little out of my reckoning.—’Twas nobody but her +husband, she said;—so I began a fresh score.—Monsieur is so good, quoth +she, as he pass’d by us, as to give himself the trouble of feeling my +pulse.—The husband took off his hat, and making me a bow, said, I did him +too much honour—and having said that, he put on his hat and walk’d out. + +Good God! said I to myself, as he went out,—and can this man be the +husband of this woman! + +Let it not torment the few who know what must have been the grounds of +this exclamation, if I explain it to those who do not. + +In London a shopkeeper and a shopkeeper’s wife seem to be one bone and +one flesh: in the several endowments of mind and body, sometimes the one, +sometimes the other has it, so as, in general, to be upon a par, and +totally with each other as nearly as man and wife need to do. + +In Paris, there are scarce two orders of beings more different: for the +legislative and executive powers of the shop not resting in the husband, +he seldom comes there:—in some dark and dismal room behind, he sits +commerce-less, in his thrum nightcap, the same rough son of Nature that +Nature left him. + +The genius of a people, where nothing but the monarchy is _salique_, +having ceded this department, with sundry others, totally to the +women,—by a continual higgling with customers of all ranks and sizes from +morning to night, like so many rough pebbles shook long together in a +bag, by amicable collisions they have worn down their asperities and +sharp angles, and not only become round and smooth, but will receive, +some of them, a polish like a brilliant:—Monsieur _le Mari_ is little +better than the stone under your foot. + +—Surely,—surely, man! it is not good for thee to sit alone:—thou wast +made for social intercourse and gentle greetings; and this improvement of +our natures from it I appeal to as my evidence. + +—And how does it beat, Monsieur? said she.—With all the benignity, said +I, looking quietly in her eyes, that I expected.—She was going to say +something civil in return—but the lad came into the shop with the +gloves.—_Apropos_, said I, I want a couple of pairs myself. + + + + +THE GLOVES. +PARIS. + + +THE beautiful grisette rose up when I said this, and going behind the +counter, reach’d down a parcel and untied it: I advanced to the side over +against her: they were all too large. The beautiful grisette measured +them one by one across my hand.—It would not alter their dimensions.—She +begg’d I would try a single pair, which seemed to be the least.—She held +it open;—my hand slipped into it at once.—It will not do, said I, shaking +my head a little.—No, said she, doing the same thing. + +There are certain combined looks of simple subtlety,—where whim, and +sense, and seriousness, and nonsense, are so blended, that all the +languages of Babel set loose together, could not express them;—they are +communicated and caught so instantaneously, that you can scarce say which +party is the infector. I leave it to your men of words to swell pages +about it—it is enough in the present to say again, the gloves would not +do; so, folding our hands within our arms, we both lolled upon the +counter—it was narrow, and there was just room for the parcel to lay +between us. + +The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then sideways to +the window, then at the gloves,—and then at me. I was not disposed to +break silence:—I followed her example: so, I looked at the gloves, then +to the window, then at the gloves, and then at her,—and so on +alternately. + +I found I lost considerably in every attack:—she had a quick black eye, +and shot through two such long and silken eyelashes with such +penetration, that she look’d into my very heart and reins.—It may seem +strange, but I could actually feel she did.— + +It is no matter, said I, taking up a couple of the pairs next me, and +putting them into my pocket. + +I was sensible the beautiful grisette had not asked above a single livre +above the price.—I wish’d she had asked a livre more, and was puzzling my +brains how to bring the matter about.—Do you think, my dear Sir, said +she, mistaking my embarrassment, that I could ask a sous too much of a +stranger—and of a stranger whose politeness, more than his want of +gloves, has done me the honour to lay himself at my mercy?—_M’en croyez +capable_?—Faith! not I, said I; and if you were, you are welcome. So +counting the money into her hand, and with a lower bow than one generally +makes to a shopkeeper’s wife, I went out, and her lad with his parcel +followed me. + + + + +THE TRANSLATION. +PARIS. + + +THERE was nobody in the box I was let into but a kindly old French +officer. I love the character, not only because I honour the man whose +manners are softened by a profession which makes bad men worse; but that +I once knew one,—for he is no more,—and why should I not rescue one page +from violation by writing his name in it, and telling the world it was +Captain Tobias Shandy, the dearest of my flock and friends, whose +philanthropy I never think of at this long distance from his death—but my +eyes gush out with tears. For his sake I have a predilection for the +whole corps of veterans; and so I strode over the two back rows of +benches and placed myself beside him. + +The old officer was reading attentively a small pamphlet, it might be the +book of the opera, with a large pair of spectacles. As soon as I sat +down, he took his spectacles off, and putting them into a shagreen case, +return’d them and the book into his pocket together. I half rose up, and +made him a bow. + +Translate this into any civilized language in the world—the sense is +this: + +“Here’s a poor stranger come into the box—he seems as if he knew nobody; +and is never likely, was he to be seven years in Paris, if every man he +comes near keeps his spectacles upon his nose:—’tis shutting the door of +conversation absolutely in his face—and using him worse than a German.” + +The French officer might as well have said it all aloud: and if he had, I +should in course have put the bow I made him into French too, and told +him, “I was sensible of his attention, and return’d him a thousand thanks +for it.” + +There is not a secret so aiding to the progress of sociality, as to get +master of this _short hand_, and to be quick in rendering the several +turns of looks and limbs with all their inflections and delineations, +into plain words. For my own part, by long habitude, I do it so +mechanically, that, when I walk the streets of London, I go translating +all the way; and have more than once stood behind in the circle, where +not three words have been said, and have brought off twenty different +dialogues with me, which I could have fairly wrote down and sworn to. + +I was going one evening to Martini’s concert at Milan, and, was just +entering the door of the hall, when the Marquisina di F— was coming out +in a sort of a hurry:—she was almost upon me before I saw her; so I gave +a spring to once side to let her pass.—She had done the same, and on the +same side too; so we ran our heads together: she instantly got to the +other side to get out: I was just as unfortunate as she had been, for I +had sprung to that side, and opposed her passage again.—We both flew +together to the other side, and then back,—and so on:—it was ridiculous: +we both blush’d intolerably: so I did at last the thing I should have +done at first;—I stood stock-still, and the Marquisina had no more +difficulty. I had no power to go into the room, till I had made her so +much reparation as to wait and follow her with my eye to the end of the +passage. She look’d back twice, and walk’d along it rather sideways, as +if she would make room for any one coming up stairs to pass her.—No, said +I—that’s a vile translation: the Marquisina has a right to the best +apology I can make her, and that opening is left for me to do it in;—so I +ran and begg’d pardon for the embarrassment I had given her, saying it +was my intention to have made her way. She answered, she was guided by +the same intention towards me;—so we reciprocally thank’d each other. +She was at the top of the stairs; and seeing no _cicisbeo_ near her, I +begg’d to hand her to her coach;—so we went down the stairs, stopping at +every third step to talk of the concert and the adventure.—Upon my word, +Madame, said I, when I had handed her in, I made six different efforts to +let you go out.—And I made six efforts, replied she, to let you enter.—I +wish to heaven you would make a seventh, said I.—With all my heart, said +she, making room.—Life is too short to be long about the forms of it,—so +I instantly stepp’d in, and she carried me home with her.—And what became +of the concert, St. Cecilia, who I suppose was at it, knows more than I. + +I will only add, that the connexion which arose out of the translation +gave me more pleasure than any one I had the honour to make in Italy. + + + + +THE DWARF. +PARIS. + + +I HAD never heard the remark made by any one in my life, except by one; +and who that was will probably come out in this chapter; so that being +pretty much unprepossessed, there must have been grounds for what struck +me the moment I cast my eyes over the parterre,—and that was, the +unaccountable sport of Nature in forming such numbers of dwarfs.—No doubt +she sports at certain times in almost every corner of the world; but in +Paris there is no end to her amusements.—The goddess seems almost as +merry as she is wise. + +As I carried my idea out of the _Opéra Comique_ with me, I measured every +body I saw walking in the streets by it.—Melancholy application! +especially where the size was extremely little,—the face extremely +dark,—the eyes quick,—the nose long,—the teeth white,—the jaw +prominent,—to see so many miserables, by force of accidents driven out of +their own proper class into the very verge of another, which it gives me +pain to write down:—every third man a pigmy!—some by rickety heads and +hump backs;—others by bandy legs;—a third set arrested by the hand of +Nature in the sixth and seventh years of their growth;—a fourth, in their +perfect and natural state like dwarf apple trees; from the first +rudiments and stamina of their existence, never meant to grow higher. + +A Medical Traveller might say, ’tis owing to undue bandages;—a Splenetic +one, to want of air;—and an Inquisitive Traveller, to fortify the system, +may measure the height of their houses,—the narrowness of their streets, +and in how few feet square in the sixth and seventh stories such numbers +of the bourgeoisie eat and sleep together; but I remember Mr. Shandy the +elder, who accounted for nothing like any body else, in speaking one +evening of these matters, averred that children, like other animals, +might be increased almost to any size, provided they came right into the +world; but the misery was, the citizens of were Paris so coop’d up, that +they had not actually room enough to get them.—I do not call it getting +anything, said he;—’tis getting nothing.—Nay, continued he, rising in his +argument, ’tis getting worse than nothing, when all you have got after +twenty or five and twenty years of the tenderest care and most nutritious +aliment bestowed upon it, shall not at last be as high as my leg. Now, +Mr. Shandy being very short, there could be nothing more said of it. + +As this is not a work of reasoning, I leave the solution as I found it, +and content myself with the truth only of the remark, which is verified +in every lane and by-lane of Paris. I was walking down that which leads +from the Carousal to the Palais Royal, and observing a little boy in some +distress at the side of the gutter which ran down the middle of it, I +took hold of his hand and help’d him over. Upon turning up his face to +look at him after, I perceived he was about forty.—Never mind, said I, +some good body will do as much for me when I am ninety. + +I feel some little principles within me which incline me to be merciful +towards this poor blighted part of my species, who have neither size nor +strength to get on in the world.—I cannot bear to see one of them trod +upon; and had scarce got seated beside my old French officer, ere the +disgust was exercised, by seeing the very thing happen under the box we +sat in. + +At the end of the orchestra, and betwixt that and the first side box, +there is a small esplanade left, where, when the house is full, numbers +of all ranks take sanctuary. Though you stand, as in the parterre, you +pay the same price as in the orchestra. A poor defenceless being of this +order had got thrust somehow or other into this luckless place;—the night +was hot, and he was surrounded by beings two feet and a half higher than +himself. The dwarf suffered inexpressibly on all sides; but the thing +which incommoded him most, was a tall corpulent German, near seven feet +high, who stood directly betwixt him and all possibility of his seeing +either the stage or the actors. The poor dwarf did all he could to get a +peep at what was going forwards, by seeking for some little opening +betwixt the German’s arm and his body, trying first on one side, then the +other; but the German stood square in the most unaccommodating posture +that can be imagined:—the dwarf might as well have been placed at the +bottom of the deepest draw-well in Paris; so he civilly reached up his +hand to the German’s sleeve, and told him his distress.—The German turn’d +his head back, looked down upon him as Goliah did upon David,—and +unfeelingly resumed his posture. + +I was just then taking a pinch of snuff out of my monk’s little horn +box.—And how would thy meek and courteous spirit, my dear monk! so +temper’d to _bear and forbear_!—how sweetly would it have lent an ear to +this poor soul’s complaint! + +The old French officer, seeing me lift up my eyes with an emotion, as I +made the apostrophe, took the liberty to ask me what was the matter?—I +told him the story in three words; and added, how inhuman it was. + +By this time the dwarf was driven to extremes, and in his first +transports, which are generally unreasonable, had told the German he +would cut off his long queue with his knife.—The German look’d back +coolly, and told him he was welcome, if he could reach it. + +An injury sharpen’d by an insult, be it to whom it will, makes every man +of sentiment a party: I could have leap’d out of the box to have +redressed it.—The old French officer did it with much less confusion; for +leaning a little over, and nodding to a sentinel, and pointing at the +same time with his finger at the distress,—the sentinel made his way to +it.—There was no occasion to tell the grievance,—the thing told himself; +so thrusting back the German instantly with his musket,—he took the poor +dwarf by the hand, and placed him before him.—This is noble! said I, +clapping my hands together.—And yet you would not permit this, said the +old officer, in England. + +—In England, dear Sir, said I, _we sit all at our ease_. + +The old French officer would have set me at unity with myself, in case I +had been at variance,—by saying it was a _bon mot_;—and, as a _bon mot_ +is always worth something at Paris, he offered me a pinch of snuff. + + + + +THE ROSE. +PARIS. + + +IT was now my turn to ask the old French officer “What was the matter?” +for a cry of “_Haussez les mains_, _Monsieur l’Abbé_!” re-echoed from a +dozen different parts of the parterre, was as unintelligible to me, as my +apostrophe to the monk had been to him. + +He told me it was some poor Abbé in one of the upper loges, who, he +supposed, had got planted perdu behind a couple of grisettes in order to +see the opera, and that the parterre espying him, were insisting upon his +holding up both his hands during the representation.—And can it be +supposed, said I, that an ecclesiastic would pick the grisettes’ pockets? +The old French officer smiled, and whispering in my ear, opened a door of +knowledge which I had no idea of. + +Good God! said I, turning pale with astonishment—is it possible, that a +people so smit with sentiment should at the same time be so unclean, and +so unlike themselves,—_Quelle grossièrté_! added I. + +The French officer told me, it was an illiberal sarcasm at the church, +which had begun in the theatre about the time the Tartuffe was given in +it by Molière: but like other remains of Gothic manners, was +declining.—Every nation, continued he, have their refinements and +_grossièrtés_, in which they take the lead, and lose it of one another by +turns:—that he had been in most countries, but never in one where he +found not some delicacies, which others seemed to want. _Le_ POUR _et +le_ CONTRE _se trouvent en chaque nation_; there is a balance, said he, +of good and bad everywhere; and nothing but the knowing it is so, can +emancipate one half of the world from the prepossession which it holds +against the other:—that the advantage of travel, as it regarded the +_sçavoir vivre_, was by seeing a great deal both of men and manners; it +taught us mutual toleration; and mutual toleration, concluded he, making +me a bow, taught us mutual love. + +The old French officer delivered this with an air of such candour and +good sense, as coincided with my first favourable impressions of his +character:—I thought I loved the man; but I fear I mistook the +object;—’twas my own way of thinking—the difference was, I could not have +expressed it half so well. + +It is alike troublesome to both the rider and his beast,—if the latter +goes pricking up his ears, and starting all the way at every object which +he never saw before.—I have as little torment of this kind as any +creature alive; and yet I honestly confess, that many a thing gave me +pain, and that I blush’d at many a word the first month,—which I found +inconsequent and perfectly innocent the second. + +Madame do Rambouliet, after an acquaintance of about six weeks with her, +had done me the honour to take me in her coach about two leagues out of +town.—Of all women, Madame de Rambouliet is the most correct; and I never +wish to see one of more virtues and purity of heart.—In our return back, +Madame de Rambouliet desired me to pull the cord.—I asked her if she +wanted anything—_Rien que pour pisser_, said Madame de Rambouliet. + +Grieve not, gentle traveller, to let Madame de Rambouliet p—ss on.—And, +ye fair mystic nymphs! go each one _pluck your rose_, and scatter them in +your path,—for Madame de Rambouliet did no more.—I handed Madame de +Rambouliet out of the coach; and had I been the priest of the chaste +Castalia, I could not have served at her fountain with a more respectful +decorum. + + + + +THE FILLE DE CHAMBRE. +PARIS. + + +WHAT the old French officer had delivered upon travelling, bringing +Polonius’s advice to his son upon the same subject into my head,—and that +bringing in Hamlet, and Hamlet the rest of Shakespeare’s works, I stopp’d +at the Quai de Conti in my return home, to purchase the whole set. + +The bookseller said he had not a set in the world. _Comment_! said I, +taking one up out of a set which lay upon the counter betwixt us.—He said +they were sent him only to be got bound, and were to be sent back to +Versailles in the morning to the Count de B—. + +—And does the Count de B—, said I, read Shakespeare? _C’est un esprit +fort_, replied the bookseller.—He loves English books! and what is more +to his honour, Monsieur, he loves the English too. You speak this so +civilly, said I, that it is enough to oblige an Englishman to lay out a +louis d’or or two at your shop.—The bookseller made a bow, and was going +to say something, when a young decent girl about twenty, who by her air +and dress seemed to be _fille de chambre_ to some devout woman of +fashion, come into the shop and asked for _Les Égarements du Cœur et de +l’Esprit_: the bookseller gave her the book directly; she pulled out a +little green satin purse run round with a riband of the same colour, and +putting her finger and thumb into it, she took out the money and paid for +it. As I had nothing more to stay me in the shop, we both walk’d out at +the door together. + +—And what have you to do, my dear, said I, with _The Wanderings of the +Heart_, who scarce know yet you have one? nor, till love has first told +you it, or some faithless shepherd has made it ache, canst thou ever be +sure it is so.—_Le Dieu m’en garde_! said the girl.—With reason, said I, +for if it is a good one, ’tis pity it should be stolen; ’tis a little +treasure to thee, and gives a better air to your face, than if it was +dress’d out with pearls. + +The young girl listened with a submissive attention, holding her satin +purse by its riband in her hand all the time.—’Tis a very small one, said +I, taking hold of the bottom of it—she held it towards me—and there is +very little in it, my dear, said I; but be but as good as thou art +handsome, and heaven will fill it. I had a parcel of crowns in my hand +to pay for Shakespeare; and, as she had let go the purse entirely, I put +a single one in; and, tying up the riband in a bow-knot, returned it to +her. + +The young girl made me more a humble courtesy than a low one:—’twas one +of those quiet, thankful sinkings, where the spirit bows itself down,—the +body does no more than tell it. I never gave a girl a crown in my life +which gave me half the pleasure. + +My advice, my dear, would not have been worth a pin to you, said I, if I +had not given this along with it: but now, when you see the crown, you’ll +remember it;—so don’t, my dear, lay it out in ribands. + +Upon my word, Sir, said the girl, earnestly, I am incapable;—in saying +which, as is usual in little bargains of honour, she gave me her +hand:—_En vérité_, _Monsieur_, _je mettrai cet argent àpart_, said she. + +When a virtuous convention is made betwixt man and woman, it sanctifies +their most private walks: so, notwithstanding it was dusky, yet as both +our roads lay the same way, we made no scruple of walking along the Quai +de Conti together. + +She made me a second courtesy in setting off, and before we got twenty +yards from the door, as if she had not done enough before, she made a +sort of a little stop to tell me again—she thank’d me. + +It was a small tribute, I told her, which I could not avoid paying to +virtue, and would not be mistaken in the person I had been rendering it +to for the world;—but I see innocence, my dear, in your face,—and foul +befall the man who ever lays a snare in its way! + +The girl seem’d affected some way or other with what I said;—she gave a +low sigh:—I found I was not empowered to enquire at all after it,—so said +nothing more till I got to the corner of the Rue de Nevers, where, we +were to part. + +—But is this the way, my dear, said I, to the Hotel de Modene? She told +me it was;—or that I might go by the Rue de Gueneguault, which was the +next turn.—Then I’ll go, my dear, by the Rue de Gueneguault, said I, for +two reasons; first, I shall please myself, and next, I shall give you the +protection of my company as far on your way as I can. The girl was +sensible I was civil—and said, she wished the Hotel de Modene was in the +Rue de St. Pierre.—You live there? said I.—She told me she was _fille de +chambre_ to Madame R—.—Good God! said I, ’tis the very lady for whom I +have brought a letter from Amiens.—The girl told me that Madame R—, she +believed, expected a stranger with a letter, and was impatient to see +him:—so I desired the girl to present my compliments to Madame R—, and +say, I would certainly wait upon her in the morning. + +We stood still at the corner of the Rue de Nevers whilst this pass’d.—We +then stopped a moment whilst she disposed of her _Égarements du Cœur_, +&c. more commodiously than carrying them in her hand—they were two +volumes: so I held the second for her whilst she put the first into her +pocket; and then she held her pocket, and I put in the other after it. + +’Tis sweet to feel by what fine spun threads our affections are drawn +together. + +We set off afresh, and as she took her third step, the girl put her hand +within my arm.—I was just bidding her,—but she did it of herself, with +that undeliberating simplicity, which show’d it was out of her head that +she had never seen me before. For my own part, I felt the conviction of +consanguinity so strongly, that I could not help turning half round to +look in her face, and see if I could trace out any thing in it of a +family likeness.—Tut! said I, are we not all relations? + +When we arrived at the turning up of the Rue de Gueneguault, I stopp’d to +bid her adieu for good and all: the girl would thank me again for my +company and kindness.—She bid me adieu twice.—I repeated it as often; and +so cordial was the parting between us, that had it happened any where +else, I’m not sure but I should have signed it with a kiss of charity, as +warm and holy as an apostle. + +But in Paris, as none kiss each other but the men,—I did, what amounted +to the same thing— + +—I bid God bless her. + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +PARIS. + + +WHEN I got home to my hotel, La Fleur told me I had been enquired after +by the Lieutenant de Police.—The deuce take it! said I,—I know the +reason. It is time the reader should know it, for in the order of things +in which it happened, it was omitted: not that it was out of my head; but +that had I told it then it might have been forgotten now;—and now is the +time I want it. + +I had left London with so much precipitation, that it never enter’d my +mind that we were at war with France; and had reached Dover, and looked +through my glass at the hills beyond Boulogne, before the idea presented +itself; and with this in its train, that there was no getting there +without a passport. Go but to the end of a street, I have a mortal +aversion for returning back no wiser than I set out; and as this was one +of the greatest efforts I had ever made for knowledge, I could less bear +the thoughts of it: so hearing the Count de —— had hired the packet, I +begg’d he would take me in his suite. The Count had some little +knowledge of me, so made little or no difficulty,—only said, his +inclination to serve me could reach no farther than Calais, as he was to +return by way of Brussels to Paris; however, when I had once pass’d +there, I might get to Paris without interruption; but that in Paris I +must make friends and shift for myself.—Let me get to Paris, Monsieur le +Count, said I,—and I shall do very well. So I embark’d, and never +thought more of the matter. + +When La Fleur told me the Lieutenant de Police had been enquiring after +me,—the thing instantly recurred;—and by the time La Fleur had well told +me, the master of the hotel came into my room to tell me the same thing, +with this addition to it, that my passport had been particularly asked +after: the master of the hotel concluded with saying, He hoped I had +one.—Not I, faith! said I. + +The master of the hotel retired three steps from me, as from an infected +person, as I declared this;—and poor La Fleur advanced three steps +towards me, and with that sort of movement which a good soul makes to +succour a distress’d one:—the fellow won my heart by it; and from that +single trait I knew his character as perfectly, and could rely upon it as +firmly, as if he had served me with fidelity for seven years. + +_Mon seigneur_! cried the master of the hotel; but recollecting himself +as he made the exclamation, he instantly changed the tone of it.—If +Monsieur, said he, has not a passport (_apparemment_) in all likelihood +he has friends in Paris who can procure him one.—Not that I know of, +quoth I, with an air of indifference.—Then _certes_, replied he, you’ll +be sent to the Bastile or the Chatelet _au moins_.—Poo! said I, the King +of France is a good natur’d soul:—he’ll hurt nobody.—_Cela n’empêche +pas_, said he—you will certainly be sent to the Bastile to-morrow +morning.—But I’ve taken your lodgings for a month, answer’d I, and I’ll +not quit them a day before the time for all the kings of France in the +world. La Fleur whispered in my ear, That nobody could oppose the king +of France. + +_Pardi_! said my host, _ces Messieurs Anglois sont des gens très +extraordinaires_;—and, having both said and sworn it,—he went out. + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +THE HOTEL AT PARIS. + + +I COULD not find in my heart to torture La Fleur’s with a serious look +upon the subject of my embarrassment, which was the reason I had treated +it so cavalierly: and to show him how light it lay upon my mind, I dropt +the subject entirely; and whilst he waited upon me at supper, talk’d to +him with more than usual gaiety about Paris, and of the Opéra Comique.—La +Fleur had been there himself, and had followed me through the streets as +far as the bookseller’s shop; but seeing me come out with the young +_fille de chambre_, and that we walk’d down the Quai de Conti together, +La Fleur deem’d it unnecessary to follow me a step further;—so making his +own reflections upon it, he took a shorter cut,—and got to the hotel in +time to be inform’d of the affair of the police against my arrival. + +As soon as the honest creature had taken away, and gone down to sup +himself, I then began to think a little seriously about my situation.— + +—And here, I know, Eugenius, thou wilt smile at the remembrance of a +short dialogue which passed betwixt us the moment I was going to set +out:—I must tell it here. + +Eugenius, knowing that I was as little subject to be overburden’d with +money as thought, had drawn me aside to interrogate me how much I had +taken care for. Upon telling him the exact sum, Eugenius shook his head, +and said it would not do; so pull’d out his purse in order to empty it +into mine.—I’ve enough in conscience, Eugenius, said I.—Indeed, Yorick, +you have not, replied Eugenius; I know France and Italy better than +you.—But you don’t consider, Eugenius, said I, refusing his offer, that +before I have been three days in Paris, I shall take care to say or do +something or other for which I shall get clapp’d up into the Bastile, and +that I shall live there a couple of months entirely at the king of +France’s expense.—I beg pardon, said Eugenius drily: really I had forgot +that resource. + +Now the event I treated gaily came seriously to my door. + +Is it folly, or nonchalance, or philosophy, or pertinacity—or what is it +in me, that, after all, when La Fleur had gone down stairs, and I was +quite alone, I could not bring down my mind to think of it otherwise than +I had then spoken of it to Eugenius? + +—And as for the Bastile; the terror is in the word.—Make the most of it +you can, said I to myself, the Bastile is but another word for a +tower;—and a tower is but another word for a house you can’t get out +of.—Mercy on the gouty! for they are in it twice a year.—But with nine +livres a day, and pen and ink, and paper, and patience, albeit a man +can’t get out, he may do very well within,—at least for a month or six +weeks; at the end of which, if he is a harmless fellow, his innocence +appears, and he comes out a better and wiser man than he went in. + +I had some occasion (I forget what) to step into the court-yard, as I +settled this account; and remember I walk’d down stairs in no small +triumph with the conceit of my reasoning.—Beshrew the sombre pencil! said +I, vauntingly—for I envy not its powers, which paints the evils of life +with so hard and deadly a colouring. The mind sits terrified at the +objects she has magnified herself, and blackened: reduce them to their +proper size and hue, she overlooks them.—’Tis true, said I, correcting +the proposition,—the Bastile is not an evil to be despised;—but strip it +of its towers—fill up the fosse,—unbarricade the doors—call it simply a +confinement, and suppose ’tis some tyrant of a distemper—and not of a +man, which holds you in it,—the evil vanishes, and you bear the other +half without complaint. + +I was interrupted in the heyday of this soliloquy, with a voice which I +took to be of a child, which complained “it could not get out.”—I look’d +up and down the passage, and seeing neither man, woman, nor child, I went +out without farther attention. + +In my return back through the passage, I heard the same words repeated +twice over; and, looking up, I saw it was a starling hung in a little +cage.—“I can’t get out,—I can’t get out,” said the starling. + +I stood looking at the bird: and to every person who came through the +passage it ran fluttering to the side towards which they approach’d it, +with the same lamentation of its captivity. “I can’t get out,” said the +starling.—God help thee! said I, but I’ll let thee out, cost what it +will; so I turned about the cage to get to the door: it was twisted and +double twisted so fast with wire, there was no getting it open without +pulling the cage to pieces.—I took both hands to it. + +The bird flew to the place where I was attempting his deliverance, and +thrusting his head through the trellis pressed his breast against it as +if impatient.—I fear, poor creature! said I, I cannot set thee at +liberty.—“No,” said the starling,— “I can’t get out—I can’t get out,” +said the starling. + +I vow I never had my affections more tenderly awakened; nor do I remember +an incident in my life, where the dissipated spirits, to which my reason +had been a bubble, were so suddenly call’d home. Mechanical as the notes +were, yet so true in tune to nature were they chanted, that in one moment +they overthrew all my systematic reasonings upon the Bastile; and I +heavily walked upstairs, unsaying every word I had said in going down +them. + +Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, Slavery! said I,—still thou art a +bitter draught! and though thousands in all ages have been made to drink +of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account.—’Tis thou, thrice sweet +and gracious goddess, addressing myself to Liberty, whom all in public or +in private worship, whose taste is grateful, and ever will be so, till +Nature herself shall change.—No _tint_ of words can spot thy snowy +mantle, or chymic power turn thy sceptre into iron:—with thee to smile +upon him as he eats his crust, the swain is happier than his monarch, +from whose court thou art exiled!—Gracious Heaven! cried I, kneeling down +upon the last step but one in my ascent, grant me but health, thou great +Bestower of it, and give me but this fair goddess as my companion,—and +shower down thy mitres, if it seems good unto thy divine providence, upon +those heads which are aching for them! + + + + +THE CAPTIVE. +PARIS. + + +THE bird in his cage pursued me into my room; I sat down close to my +table, and leaning my head upon my hand, I began to figure to myself the +miseries of confinement. I was in a right frame for it, and so I gave +full scope to my imagination. + +I was going to begin with the millions of my fellow-creatures born to no +inheritance but slavery: but finding, however affecting the picture was, +that I could not bring it near me, and that the multitude of sad groups +in it did but distract me.— + +—I took a single captive, and having first shut him up in his dungeon, I +then look’d through the twilight of his grated door to take his picture. + +I beheld his body half-wasted away with long expectation and confinement, +and felt what kind of sickness of the heart it was which arises from hope +deferr’d. Upon looking nearer I saw him pale and feverish: in thirty +years the western breeze had not once fann’d his blood;—he had seen no +sun, no moon, in all that time—nor had the voice of friend or kinsman +breathed through his lattice.—His children— + +But here my heart began to bleed—and I was forced to go on with another +part of the portrait. + +He was sitting upon the ground upon a little straw, in the furthest +corner of his dungeon, which was alternately his chair and bed: a little +calendar of small sticks were laid at the head, notch’d all over with the +dismal days and nights he had passed there;—he had one of these little +sticks in his hand, and, with a rusty nail he was etching another day of +misery to add to the heap. As I darkened the little light he had, he +lifted up a hopeless eye towards the door, then cast it down,—shook his +head, and went on with his work of affliction. I heard his chains upon +his legs, as he turned his body to lay his little stick upon the +bundle.—He gave a deep sigh.—I saw the iron enter into his soul!—I burst +into tears.—I could not sustain the picture of confinement which my fancy +had drawn.—I started up from my chair, and calling La Fleur: I bid him +bespeak me a remise, and have it ready at the door of the hotel by nine +in the morning. + +I’ll go directly, said I, myself to Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul. + +La Fleur would have put me to bed; but—not willing he should see anything +upon my cheek which would cost the honest fellow a heart-ache,—I told him +I would go to bed by myself,—and bid him go do the same. + + + + +THE STARLING. +ROAD TO VERSAILLES. + + +I GOT into my remise the hour I proposed: La Fleur got up behind, and I +bid the coachman make the best of his way to Versailles. + +As there was nothing in this road, or rather nothing which I look for in +travelling, I cannot fill up the blank better than with a short history +of this self-same bird, which became the subject of the last chapter. + +Whilst the Honourable Mr. — was waiting for a wind at Dover, it had been +caught upon the cliffs, before it could well fly, by an English lad who +was his groom; who, not caring to destroy it, had taken it in his breast +into the packet;—and, by course of feeding it, and taking it once under +his protection, in a day or two grew fond of it, and got it safe along +with him to Paris. + +At Paris the lad had laid out a livre in a little cage for the starling, +and as he had little to do better the five months his master staid there, +he taught it, in his mother’s tongue, the four simple words—(and no +more)—to which I own’d myself so much its debtor. + +Upon his master’s going on for Italy, the lad had given it to the master +of the hotel. But his little song for liberty being in an _unknown_ +language at Paris, the bird had little or no store set by him: so La +Fleur bought both him and his cage for me for a bottle of Burgundy. + +In my return from Italy I brought him with me to the country in whose +language he had learned his notes; and telling the story of him to Lord +A—, Lord A— begg’d the bird of me;—in a week Lord A— gave him to Lord B—; +Lord B— made a present of him to Lord C—; and Lord C—’s gentleman sold +him to Lord D—’s for a shilling; Lord D— gave him to Lord E—; and so +on—half round the alphabet. From that rank he pass’d into the lower +house, and pass’d the hands of as many commoners. But as all these +wanted to _get in_, and my bird wanted to _get out_, he had almost as +little store set by him in London as in Paris. + +It is impossible but many of my readers must have heard of him; and if +any by mere chance have ever seen him, I beg leave to inform them, that +that bird was my bird, or some vile copy set up to represent him. + +[Picture: The starling as the crest of arms] I have nothing farther to +add upon him, but that from that time to this I have borne this poor +starling as the crest to my arms.—Thus: + +—And let the herald’s officers twist his neck about if they dare. + + + + +THE ADDRESS. +VERSAILLES. + + +I SHOULD not like to have my enemy take a view of my mind when I am going +to ask protection of any man; for which reason I generally endeavour to +protect myself; but this going to Monsieur le Duc de C— was an act of +compulsion; had it been an act of choice, I should have done it, I +suppose, like other people. + +How many mean plans of dirty address, as I went along, did my servile +heart form! I deserved the Bastile for every one of them. + +Then nothing would serve me when I got within sight of Versailles, but +putting words and sentences together, and conceiving attitudes and tones +to wreath myself into Monsieur le Duc de C—’s good graces.—This will do, +said I.—Just as well, retorted I again, as a coat carried up to him by an +adventurous tailor, without taking his measure. Fool! continued I,—see +Monsieur le Duc’s face first;—observe what character is written in +it;—take notice in what posture he stands to hear you;—mark the turns and +expressions of his body and limbs;—and for the tone,—the first sound +which comes from his lips will give it you; and from all these together +you’ll compound an address at once upon the spot, which cannot disgust +the Duke;—the ingredients are his own, and most likely to go down. + +Well! said I, I wish it well over.—Coward again! as if man to man was not +equal throughout the whole surface of the globe; and if in the field—why +not face to face in the cabinet too? And trust me, Yorick, whenever it +is not so, man is false to himself and betrays his own succours ten times +where nature does it once. Go to the Duc de C— with the Bastile in thy +looks;—my life for it, thou wilt be sent back to Paris in half an hour +with an escort. + +I believe so, said I.—Then I’ll go to the Duke, by heaven! with all the +gaiety and debonairness in the world.— + +—And there you are wrong again, replied I.—A heart at ease, Yorick, flies +into no extremes—’tis ever on its centre.—Well! well! cried I, as the +coachman turn’d in at the gates, I find I shall do very well: and by the +time he had wheel’d round the court, and brought me up to the door, I +found myself so much the better for my own lecture, that I neither +ascended the steps like a victim to justice, who was to part with life +upon the top most,—nor did I mount them with a skip and a couple of +strides, as I do when I fly up, Eliza! to thee to meet it. + +As I entered the door of the saloon I was met by a person, who possibly +might be the _maître d’hôtel_, but had more the air of one of the under +secretaries, who told me the Duc de C— was busy.—I am utterly ignorant, +said I, of the forms of obtaining an audience, being an absolute +stranger, and what is worse in the present conjuncture of affairs, being +an Englishman too.—He replied, that did not increase the difficulty.—I +made him a slight bow, and told him, I had something of importance to say +to Monsieur le Duc. The secretary look’d towards the stairs, as if he +was about to leave me to carry up this account to some one.—But I must +not mislead you, said I,—for what I have to say is of no manner of +importance to Monsieur le Duc de C— —but of great importance to +myself.—_C’est une autre affaire_, replied he.—Not at all, said I, to a +man of gallantry.—But pray, good sir, continued I, when can a stranger +hope to have access?—In not less than two hours, said he, looking at his +watch. The number of equipages in the court-yard seemed to justify the +calculation, that I could have no nearer a prospect;—and as walking +backwards and forwards in the saloon, without a soul to commune with, was +for the time as bad as being in the Bastile itself, I instantly went back +to my remise, and bid the coachman drive me to the _Cordon Bleu_, which +was the nearest hotel. + +I think there is a fatality in it;—I seldom go to the place I set out +for. + + + + +LE PATISSIER. +VERSAILLES. + + +BEFORE I had got half way down the street I changed my mind: as I am at +Versailles, thought I, I might as well take a view of the town; so I +pull’d the cord, and ordered the coachman to drive round some of the +principal streets.—I suppose the town is not very large, said I.—The +coachman begg’d pardon for setting me right, and told me it was very +superb, and that numbers of the first dukes and marquises and counts had +hotels.—The Count de B—, of whom the bookseller at the Quai de Conti had +spoke so handsomely the night before, came instantly into my mind.—And +why should I not go, thought I, to the Count de B—, who has so high an +idea of English books and English men—and tell him my story? so I changed +my mind a second time.—In truth it was the third; for I had intended that +day for Madame de R—, in the Rue St. Pierre, and had devoutly sent her +word by her _fille de chambre_ that I would assuredly wait upon her;—but +I am governed by circumstances;—I cannot govern them: so seeing a man +standing with a basket on the other side of the street, as if he had +something to sell, I bid La Fleur go up to him, and enquire for the +Count’s hotel. + +La Fleur returned a little pale; and told me it was a Chevalier de St. +Louis selling pâtés.—It is impossible, La Fleur, said I.—La Fleur could +no more account for the phenomenon than myself; but persisted in his +story: he had seen the croix set in gold, with its red riband, he said, +tied to his buttonhole—and had looked into the basket and seen the pâtés +which the Chevalier was selling; so could not be mistaken in that. + +Such a reverse in man’s life awakens a better principle than curiosity: I +could not help looking for some time at him as I sat in the remise:—the +more I look’d at him, his croix, and his basket, the stronger they wove +themselves into my brain.—I got out of the remise, and went towards him. + +He was begirt with a clean linen apron which fell below his knees, and +with a sort of a bib that went half way up his breast; upon the top of +this, but a little below the hem, hung his croix. His basket of little +pâtés was covered over with a white damask napkin; another of the same +kind was spread at the bottom; and there was a look of _propreté_ and +neatness throughout, that one might have bought his pâtés of him, as much +from appetite as sentiment. + +He made an offer of them to neither; but stood still with them at the +corner of an hotel, for those to buy who chose it without solicitation. + +He was about forty-eight;—of a sedate look, something approaching to +gravity. I did not wonder.—I went up rather to the basket than him, and +having lifted up the napkin, and taking one of his pâtés into my hand,—I +begg’d he would explain the appearance which affected me. + +He told me in a few words, that the best part of his life had passed in +the service, in which, after spending a small patrimony, he had obtained +a company and the croix with it; but that, at the conclusion of the last +peace, his regiment being reformed, and the whole corps, with those of +some other regiments, left without any provision, he found himself in a +wide world without friends, without a livre,—and indeed, said he, without +anything but this,—(pointing, as he said it, to his croix).—The poor +Chevalier won my pity, and he finished the scene with winning my esteem +too. + +The king, he said, was the most generous of princes, but his generosity +could neither relieve nor reward everyone, and it was only his misfortune +to be amongst the number. He had a little wife, he said, whom he loved, +who did the _pâtisserie_; and added, he felt no dishonour in defending +her and himself from want in this way—unless Providence had offer’d him a +better. + +It would be wicked to withhold a pleasure from the good, in passing over +what happen’d to this poor Chevalier of St. Louis about nine months +after. + +It seems he usually took his stand near the iron gates which lead up to +the palace, and as his croix had caught the eyes of numbers, numbers had +made the same enquiry which I had done.—He had told them the same story, +and always with so much modesty and good sense, that it had reach’d at +last the king’s ears;—who, hearing the Chevalier had been a gallant +officer, and respected by the whole regiment as a man of honour and +integrity,—he broke up his little trade by a pension of fifteen hundred +livres a year. + +As I have told this to please the reader, I beg he will allow me to +relate another, out of its order, to please myself:—the two stories +reflect light upon each other,—and ’tis a pity they should be parted. + + + + +THE SWORD. +RENNES. + + +WHEN states and empires have their periods of declension, and feel in +their turns what distress and poverty is,—I stop not to tell the causes +which gradually brought the house d’E—, in Brittany, into decay. The +Marquis d’E— had fought up against his condition with great firmness; +wishing to preserve, and still show to the world, some little fragments +of what his ancestors had been;—their indiscretions had put it out of his +power. There was enough left for the little exigencies of +_obscurity_.—But he had two boys who looked up to him for _light_;—he +thought they deserved it. He had tried his sword—it could not open the +way,—the _mounting_ was too expensive,—and simple economy was not a match +for it:—there was no resource but commerce. + +In any other province in France, save Brittany, this was smiting the root +for ever of the little tree his pride and affection wish’d to see +re-blossom.—But in Brittany, there being a provision for this, he avail’d +himself of it; and, taking an occasion when the states were assembled at +Rennes, the Marquis, attended with his two boys, entered the court; and +having pleaded the right of an ancient law of the duchy, which, though +seldom claim’d, he said, was no less in force, he took his sword from his +side:—Here, said he, take it; and be trusty guardians of it, till better +times put me in condition to reclaim it. + +The president accepted the Marquis’s sword: he staid a few minutes to see +it deposited in the archives of his house—and departed. + +The Marquis and his whole family embarked the next day for Martinico, +and in about nineteen or twenty years of successful application to +business, with some unlook’d for bequests from distant branches of his +house, return home to reclaim his nobility, and to support it. + +It was an incident of good fortune which will never happen to any +traveller but a Sentimental one, that I should be at Rennes at the very +time of this solemn requisition: I call it solemn;—it was so to me. + +The Marquis entered the court with his whole family: he supported his +lady,—his eldest son supported his sister, and his youngest was at the +other extreme of the line next his mother;—he put his handkerchief to his +face twice.— + +—There was a dead silence. When the Marquis had approached within six +paces of the tribunal, he gave the Marchioness to his youngest son, and +advancing three steps before his family,—he reclaim’d his sword. His +sword was given him, and the moment he got it into his hand he drew it +almost out of the scabbard:—’twas the shining face of a friend he had +once given up—he look’d attentively along it, beginning at the hilt, as +if to see whether it was the same,—when, observing a little rust which it +had contracted near the point, he brought it near his eye, and bending +his head down over it,—I think—I saw a tear fall upon the place. I could +not be deceived by what followed. + +“I shall find,” said he, “some _other way_ to get it off.” + +When the Marquis had said this, he returned his sword into its scabbard, +made a bow to the guardians of it,—and, with his wife and daughter, and +his two sons following him, walk’d out. + +O, how I envied him his feelings! + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +VERSAILLES. + + +I FOUND no difficulty in getting admittance to Monsieur le Count de B—. +The set of Shakespeares was laid upon the table, and he was tumbling them +over. I walk’d up close to the table, and giving first such a look at +the books as to make him conceive I knew what they were,—I told him I had +come without any one to present me, knowing I should meet with a friend +in his apartment, who, I trusted, would do it for me:—it is my +countryman, the great Shakespeare, said I, pointing to his works—_et ayez +la bonté_, _mon cher ami_, apostrophizing his spirit, added I, _de me +faire cet honneur-là_.— + +The Count smiled at the singularity of the introduction; and seeing I +look’d a little pale and sickly, insisted upon my taking an arm-chair; so +I sat down; and to save him conjectures upon a visit so out of all rule, +I told him simply of the incident in the bookseller’s shop, and how that +had impelled me rather to go to him with the story of a little +embarrassment I was under, than to any other man in France.—And what is +your embarrassment? let me hear it, said the Count. So I told him the +story just as I have told it the reader. + +—And the master of my hotel, said I, as I concluded it, will needs have +it, Monsieur le Count, that I shall be sent to the Bastile;—but I have no +apprehensions, continued I;—for, in falling into the hands of the most +polish’d people in the world, and being conscious I was a true man, and +not come to spy the nakedness of the land, I scarce thought I lay at +their mercy.—It does not suit the gallantry of the French, Monsieur le +Count, said I, to show it against invalids. + +An animated blush came into the Count de B—’s cheeks as I spoke this.—_Ne +craignez rien_—Don’t fear, said he.—Indeed, I don’t, replied I +again.—Besides, continued I, a little sportingly, I have come laughing +all the way from London to Paris, and I do not think Monsieur le Duc de +Choiseul is such an enemy to mirth as to send me back crying for my +pains. + +—My application to you, Monsieur le Count de B— (making him a low bow), +is to desire he will not. + +The Count heard me with great good nature, or I had not said half as +much,—and once or twice said,—_C’est bien dit_. So I rested my cause +there—and determined to say no more about it. + +The Count led the discourse: we talk’d of indifferent things,—of books, +and politics, and men;—and then of women.—God bless them all! said I, +after much discourse about them—there is not a man upon earth who loves +them so much as I do: after all the foibles I have seen, and all the +satires I have read against them, still I love them; being firmly +persuaded that a man, who has not a sort of affection for the whole sex, +is incapable of ever loving a single one as he ought. + +_Eh bien_! _Monsieur l’Anglois_, said the Count, gaily;—you are not come +to spy the nakedness of the land;—I believe you;—_ni encore_, I dare say, +_that_ of our women!—But permit me to conjecture,—if, _par hazard_, they +fell into your way, that the prospect would not affect you. + +I have something within me which cannot bear the shock of the least +indecent insinuation: in the sportability of chit-chat I have often +endeavoured to conquer it, and with infinite pain have hazarded a +thousand things to a dozen of the sex together,—the least of which I +could not venture to a single one to gain heaven. + +Excuse me, Monsieur le Count, said I;—as for the nakedness of your land, +if I saw it, I should cast my eyes over it with tears in them;—and for +that of your women (blushing at the idea he had excited in me) I am so +evangelical in this, and have such a fellow-feeling for whatever is weak +about them, that I would cover it with a garment if I knew how to throw +it on:—But I could wish, continued I, to spy the nakedness of their +hearts, and through the different disguises of customs, climates, and +religion, find out what is good in them to fashion my own by:—and +therefore am I come. + +It is for this reason, Monsieur le Count, continued I, that I have not +seen the Palais Royal,—nor the Luxembourg,—nor the Façade of the +Louvre,—nor have attempted to swell the catalogues we have of pictures, +statues, and churches.—I conceive every fair being as a temple, and would +rather enter in, and see the original drawings and loose sketches hung up +in it, than the Transfiguration of Raphael itself. + +The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which inflames the +breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own home into France,—and +from France will lead me through Italy;—’tis a quiet journey of the heart +in pursuit of Nature, and those affections which arise out of her, which +make us love each other,—and the world, better than we do. + +The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the occasion; and +added very politely, how much he stood obliged to Shakespeare for making +me known to him.—But _à propos_, said he;—Shakespeare is full of great +things;—he forgot a small punctilio of announcing your name:—it puts you +under a necessity of doing it yourself. + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +VERSAILLES. + + +THERE is not a more perplexing affair in life to me, than to set about +telling any one who I am,—for there is scarce any body I cannot give a +better account of than myself; and I have often wished I could do it in a +single word,—and have an end of it. It was the only time and occasion in +my life I could accomplish this to any purpose;—for Shakespeare lying +upon the table, and recollecting I was in his books, I took up Hamlet, +and turning immediately to the grave-diggers’ scene in the fifth act, I +laid my finger upon Yorick, and advancing the book to the Count, with my +finger all the way over the name,—_Me voici_! said I. + +Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick’s skull was put out of the Count’s +mind by the reality of my own, or by what magic he could drop a period of +seven or eight hundred years, makes nothing in this account;—’tis certain +the French conceive better than they combine;—I wonder at nothing in this +world, and the less at this; inasmuch as one of the first of our own +Church, for whose candour and paternal sentiments I have the highest +veneration, fell into the same mistake in the very same case:—“He could +not bear,” he said, “to look into the sermons wrote by the King of +Denmark’s jester.” Good, my Lord said I; but there are two Yoricks. The +Yorick your Lordship thinks of, has been dead and buried eight hundred +years ago; he flourished in Horwendillus’s court;—the other Yorick is +myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court.—He shook his head. +Good God! said I, you might as well confound Alexander the Great with +Alexander the Coppersmith, my lord!—“’Twas all one,” he replied.— + +—If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated your Lordship, said +I, I’m sure your Lordship would not have said so. + +The poor Count de B— fell but into the same _error_. + +—_Et_, _Monsieur_, _est-il Yorick_? cried the Count.—_Je le suis_, said +I.—_Vous_?—_Moi_,—_moi qui ai l’honneur de vous parler_, _Monsieur le +Comte_.—_Mon Dieu_! said he, embracing me,—_Vous êtes Yorick_! + +The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and left me +alone in his room. + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +VERSAILLES. + + +I COULD not conceive why the Count de B— had gone so abruptly out of the +room, any more than I could conceive why he had put the Shakespeare into +his pocket.—_Mysteries which must explain themselves are not worth the +loss of time which a conjecture about them takes up_: ’twas better to +read Shakespeare; so taking up “_Much Ado About Nothing_,” I transported +myself instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in Sicily, and got so +busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, that I thought not of +Versailles, the Count, or the passport. + +Sweet pliability of man’s spirit, that can at once surrender itself to +illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow of their weary +moments!—Long,—long since had ye number’d out my days, had I not trod so +great a part of them upon this enchanted ground. When my way is too +rough for my feet, or too steep for my strength, I get off it, to some +smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered over with rosebuds of +delights; and having taken a few turns in it, come back strengthened and +refresh’d.—When evils press sore upon me, and there is no retreat from +them in this world, then I take a new course;—I leave it,—and as I have a +clearer idea of the Elysian fields than I have of heaven, I force myself, +like Æneas, into them.—I see him meet the pensive shade of his forsaken +Dido, and wish to recognise it;—I see the injured spirit wave her head, +and turn off silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours;—I +lose the feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections which were +wont to make me mourn for her when I was at school. + +_Surely this is not walking in a vain shadow—nor does man disquiet +himself_ in vain _by it_:—he oftener does so in trusting the issue of his +commotions to reason only.—I can safely say for myself, I was never able +to conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart so decisively, as +beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and gentle sensation to +fight it upon its own ground. + +When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de B— entered, with +my passport in his hand. Monsieur le Duc de C—, said the Count, is as +good a prophet, I dare say, as he is a statesman. _Un homme qui rit_, +said the Duke, _ne sera jamais dangereux_.—Had it been for any one but +the king’s jester, added the Count, I could not have got it these two +hours.—_Pardonnez moi_, Monsieur le Count, said I—I am not the king’s +jester.—But you are Yorick?—Yes.—_Et vous plaisantez_?—I answered, Indeed +I did jest,—but was not paid for it;—’twas entirely at my own expense. + +We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the last we had +was in the licentious reign of Charles II.;—since which time our manners +have been so gradually refining, that our court at present is so full of +patriots, who wish for _nothing_ but the honours and wealth of their +country;—and our ladies are all so chaste, so spotless, so good, so +devout,—there is nothing for a jester to make a jest of.— + +_Voilà un persiflage_! cried the Count. + + + + +THE PASSPORT. +VERSAILLES. + + +AS the passport was directed to all lieutenant-governors, governors, and +commandants of cities, generals of armies, justiciaries, and all officers +of justice, to let Mr. Yorick the king’s jester, and his baggage, travel +quietly along, I own the triumph of obtaining the passport was not a +little tarnish’d by the figure I cut in it.—But there is nothing unmix’d +in this world; and some of the gravest of our divines have carried it so +far as to affirm, that enjoyment itself was attended even with a +sigh,—and that the greatest _they knew of_ terminated, _in a general +way_, in little better than a convulsion. + +I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his Commentary upon the +Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks off in the middle of a note +to give an account to the world of a couple of sparrows upon the out-edge +of his window, which had incommoded him all the time he wrote, and at +last had entirely taken him off from his genealogy. + +—’Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts are certain, for I have +had the curiosity to mark them down one by one with my pen;—but the cock +sparrow, during the little time that I could have finished the other half +of this note, has actually interrupted me with the reiteration of his +caresses three-and-twenty times and a half. + +How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his creatures! + +Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be able to +write that to the world, which stains thy face with crimson to copy, even +in thy study. + +But this is nothing to my travels.—So I twice,—twice beg pardon for it. + + + + +CHARACTER. +VERSAILLES. + + +AND how do you find the French? said the Count de B—, after he had given +me the passport. + +The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of courtesy, I +could not be at a loss to say something handsome to the enquiry. + +—_Mais passe_, _pour cela_.—Speak frankly, said he: do you find all the +urbanity in the French which the world give us the honour of?—I had found +every thing, I said, which confirmed it.—_Vraiment_, said the Count, _les +François sont polis_.—To an excess, replied I. + +The Count took notice of the word _excès_; and would have it I meant more +than I said. I defended myself a long time as well as I could against +it.—He insisted I had a reserve, and that I would speak my opinion +frankly. + +I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain compass, as +well as an instrument; and that the social and other calls have occasion +by turns for every key in him; so that if you begin a note too high or +too low, there must be a want either in the upper or under part, to fill +up the system of harmony.—The Count de B— did not understand music, so +desired me to explain it some other way. A polish’d nation, my dear +Count, said I, makes every one its debtor: and besides, Urbanity itself, +like the fair sex, has so many charms, it goes against the heart to say +it can do ill; and yet, I believe, there is but a certain line of +perfection, that man, take him altogether, is empower’d to arrive at:—if +he gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than gets them. I must not +presume to say how far this has affected the French in the subject we are +speaking of;—but, should it ever be the case of the English, in the +progress of their refinements, to arrive at the same polish which +distinguishes the French, if we did not lose the _politesse du cœur_, +which inclines men more to humane actions than courteous ones,—we should +at least lose that distinct variety and originality of character, which +distinguishes them, not only from each other, but from all the world +besides. + +I had a few of King William’s shillings, as smooth as glass, in my +pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the illustration of my +hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I had proceeded so far:— + +See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them before him +upon the table,—by jingling and rubbing one against another for seventy +years together in one body’s pocket or another’s, they are become so much +alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling from another. + +The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and passing but few +people’s hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine hand of +Nature has given them;—they are not so pleasant to feel,—but in return +the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see whose image and +superscription they bear.—But the French, Monsieur le Count, added I +(wishing to soften what I had said), have so many excellences, they can +the better spare this;—they are a loyal, a gallant, a generous, an +ingenious, and good temper’d people as is under heaven;—if they have a +fault—they are too _serious_. + +_Mon Dieu_! cried the Count, rising out of his chair. + +_Mais vous plaisantez_, said he, correcting his exclamation.—I laid my +hand upon my breast, and with earnest gravity assured him it was my most +settled opinion. + +The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my reasons, +being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de C—. + +But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your soup with me, +I beg, before you leave France, I may have the pleasure of knowing you +retract your opinion,—or, in what manner you support it.—But, if you do +support it, Monsieur Anglois, said he, you must do it with all your +powers, because you have the whole world against you.—I promised the +Count I would do myself the honour of dining with him before I set out +for Italy;—so took my leave. + + + + +THE TEMPTATION. +PARIS. + + +WHEN I alighted at the hotel, the porter told me a young woman with a +bandbox had been that moment enquiring for me.—I do not know, said the +porter, whether she is gone away or not. I took the key of my chamber of +him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within ten steps of the top of +the landing before my door, I met her coming easily down. + +It was the fair _fille de chambre_ I had walked along the Quai de Conti +with; Madame de R— had sent her upon some commission to a _marchande des +modes_ within a step or two of the Hôtel de Modene; and as I had fail’d +in waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I had left Paris; and if so, +whether I had not left a letter addressed to her. + +As the fair _fille de chambre_ was so near my door, she returned back, +and went into the room with me for a moment or two whilst I wrote a card. + +It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of May,—the +crimson window curtains (which were of the same colour as those of the +bed) were drawn close:—the sun was setting, and reflected through them so +warm a tint into the fair _fille de chambre’s_ face,—I thought she +blush’d;—the idea of it made me blush myself:—we were quite alone; and +that superinduced a second blush before the first could get off. + +There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the blood is more +in fault than the man:—’tis sent impetuous from the heart, and virtue +flies after it,—not to call it back, but to make the sensation of it more +delicious to the nerves:—’tis associated.— + +But I’ll not describe it;—I felt something at first within me which was +not in strict unison with the lesson of virtue I had given her the night +before.—I sought five minutes for a card;—I knew I had not one.—I took up +a pen.—I laid it down again;—my hand trembled:—the devil was in me. + +I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we resist, he will +fly from us;—but I seldom resist him at all; from a terror, though I may +conquer, I may still get a hurt in the combat;—so I give up the triumph +for security; and, instead of thinking to make him fly, I generally fly +myself. + +The fair _fille de chambre_ came close up to the bureau where I was +looking for a card—took up first the pen I cast down, then offer’d to +hold me the ink; she offer’d it so sweetly, I was going to accept it;—but +I durst not;—I have nothing, my dear, said I, to write upon.—Write it, +said she, simply, upon anything.— + +I was just going to cry out, Then I will write it, fair girl! upon thy +lips.— + +If I do, said I, I shall perish;—so I took her by the hand, and led her +to the door, and begg’d she would not forget the lesson I had given +her.—She said, indeed she would not;—and, as she uttered it with some +earnestness, she turn’d about, and gave me both her hands, closed +together, into mine;—it was impossible not to compress them in that +situation;—I wish’d to let them go; and all the time I held them, I kept +arguing within myself against it,—and still I held them on.—In two +minutes I found I had all the battle to fight over again;—and I felt my +legs and every limb about me tremble at the idea. + +The foot of the bed was within a yard and a half of the place where we +were standing.—I had still hold of her hands—and how it happened I can +give no account; but I neither ask’d her—nor drew her—nor did I think of +the bed;—but so it did happen, we both sat down. + +I’ll just show you, said the fair _fille de chambre_, the little purse I +have been making to-day to hold your crown. So she put her hand into her +right pocket, which was next me, and felt for it some time—then into the +left.—“She had lost it.”—I never bore expectation more quietly;—it was in +her right pocket at last;—she pull’d it out; it was of green taffeta, +lined with a little bit of white quilted satin, and just big enough to +hold the crown: she put it into my hand;—it was pretty; and I held it ten +minutes with the back of my hand resting upon her lap—looking sometimes +at the purse, sometimes on one side of it. + +A stitch or two had broke out in the gathers of my stock; the fair _fille +de chambre_, without saying a word, took out her little housewife, +threaded a small needle, and sew’d it up.—I foresaw it would hazard the +glory of the day; and, as she pass’d her hand in silence across and +across my neck in the manœuvre, I felt the laurels shake which fancy had +wreath’d about my head. + +A strap had given way in her walk, and the buckle of her shoe was just +falling off.—See, said the _fille de chambre_, holding up her foot.—I +could not, for my soul but fasten the buckle in return, and putting in +the strap,—and lifting up the other foot with it, when I had done, to see +both were right,—in doing it too suddenly, it unavoidably threw the fair +_fille de chambre_ off her centre,—and then— + + + + +THE CONQUEST. + + +YES,—and then—. Ye whose clay-cold heads and luke-warm hearts can argue +down or mask your passions, tell me, what trespass is it that man should +have them? or how his spirit stands answerable to the Father of spirits +but for his conduct under them? + +If Nature has so wove her web of kindness, that some threads of love and +desire are entangled with the piece,—must the whole web be rent in +drawing them out?—Whip me such stoics, great Governor of Nature! said I +to myself:—wherever thy providence shall place me for the trials of my +virtue;—whatever is my danger,—whatever is my situation,—let me feel the +movements which rise out of it, and which belong to me as a man,—and, if +I govern them as a good one, I will trust the issues to thy justice; for +thou hast made us, and not we ourselves. + +As I finished my address, I raised the fair _fille de chambre_ up by the +hand, and led her out of the room:—she stood by me till I locked the door +and put the key in my pocket,—and then,—the victory being quite +decisive—and not till then, I press’d my lips to her cheek, and taking +her by the hand again, led her safe to the gate of the hotel. + + + + +THE MYSTERY. +PARIS. + + +If a man knows the heart, he will know it was impossible to go back +instantly to my chamber;—it was touching a cold key with a flat third to +it upon the close of a piece of music, which had call’d forth my +affections:—therefore, when I let go the hand of the _fille de chambre_, +I remained at the gate of the hotel for some time, looking at every one +who pass’d by,—and forming conjectures upon them, till my attention got +fix’d upon a single object which confounded all kind of reasoning upon +him. + +It was a tall figure of a philosophic, serious, adust look, which passed +and repass’d sedately along the street, making a turn of about sixty +paces on each side of the gate of the hotel;—the man was about +fifty-two—had a small cane under his arm—was dress’d in a dark +drab-colour’d coat, waistcoat, and breeches, which seem’d to have seen +some years service:—they were still clean, and there was a little air of +frugal _propreté_ throughout him. By his pulling off his hat, and his +attitude of accosting a good many in his way, I saw he was asking +charity: so I got a sous or two out of my pocket ready to give him, as he +took me in his turn.—He pass’d by me without asking anything—and yet did +not go five steps further before he ask’d charity of a little woman.—I +was much more likely to have given of the two.—He had scarce done with +the woman, when he pull’d off his hat to another who was coming the same +way.—An ancient gentleman came slowly—and, after him, a young smart +one.—He let them both pass, and ask’d nothing. I stood observing him +half an hour, in which time he had made a dozen turns backwards and +forwards, and found that he invariably pursued the same plan. + +There were two things very singular in this, which set my brain to work, +and to no purpose:—the first was, why the man should _only_ tell his +story to the sex;—and, secondly,—what kind of story it was, and what +species of eloquence it could be, which soften’d the hearts of the women, +which he knew ’twas to no purpose to practise upon the men. + +There were two other circumstances, which entangled this mystery;—the one +was, he told every woman what he had to say in her ear, and in a way +which had much more the air of a secret than a petition;—the other was, +it was always successful.—He never stopp’d a woman, but she pull’d out +her purse, and immediately gave him something. + +I could form no system to explain the phenomenon. + +I had got a riddle to amuse me for the rest of the evening; so I walk’d +upstairs to my chamber. + + + + +THE CASE OF CONSCIENCE. +PARIS. + + +I WAS immediately followed up by the master of the hotel, who came into +my room to tell me I must provide lodgings elsewhere.—How so, friend? +said I.—He answered, I had had a young woman lock’d up with me two hours +that evening in my bedchamber, and ’twas against the rules of his +house.—Very well, said I, we’ll all part friends then,—for the girl is no +worse,—and I am no worse,—and you will be just as I found you.—It was +enough, he said, to overthrow the credit of his hotel.—_Voyez vous_, +Monsieur, said he, pointing to the foot of the bed we had been sitting +upon.—I own it had something of the appearance of an evidence; but my +pride not suffering me to enter into any detail of the case, I exhorted +him to let his soul sleep in peace, as I resolved to let mine do that +night, and that I would discharge what I owed him at breakfast. + +I should not have minded, Monsieur, said he, if you had had twenty +girls—’Tis a score more, replied I, interrupting him, than I ever +reckon’d upon—Provided, added he, it had been but in a morning.—And does +the difference of the time of the day at Paris make a difference in the +sin?—It made a difference, he said, in the scandal.—I like a good +distinction in my heart; and cannot say I was intolerably out of temper +with the man.—I own it is necessary, resumed the master of the hotel, +that a stranger at Paris should have the opportunities presented to him +of buying lace and silk stockings and ruffles, _et tout cela_;—and ’tis +nothing if a woman comes with a band-box.—O, my conscience! said I, she +had one but I never look’d into it.—Then Monsieur, said he, has bought +nothing?—Not one earthly thing, replied I.—Because, said he, I could +recommend one to you who would use you _en conscience_.—But I must see +her this night, said I.—He made me a low bow, and walk’d down. + +Now shall I triumph over this _maître d’hôtel_, cried I,—and what then? +Then I shall let him see I know he is a dirty fellow.—And what then? +What then?—I was too near myself to say it was for the sake of others.—I +had no good answer left;—there was more of spleen than principle in my +project, and I was sick of it before the execution. + +In a few minutes the grisette came in with her box of lace.—I’ll buy +nothing, however, said I, within myself. + +The grisette would show me everything.—I was hard to please: she would +not seem to see it; she opened her little magazine, and laid all her +laces one after another before me;—unfolded and folded them up again one +by one with the most patient sweetness.—I might buy,—or not;—she would +let me have everything at my own price:—the poor creature seem’d anxious +to get a penny; and laid herself out to win me, and not so much in a +manner which seem’d artful, as in one I felt simple and caressing. + +If there is not a fund of honest gullibility in man, so much the +worse;—my heart relented, and I gave up my second resolution as quietly +as the first.—Why should I chastise one for the trespass of another? If +thou art tributary to this tyrant of an host, thought I, looking up in +her face, so much harder is thy bread. + +If I had not had more than four louis d’ors in my purse, there was no +such thing as rising up and showing her the door, till I had first laid +three of them out in a pair of ruffles. + +—The master of the hotel will share the profit with her;—no matter,—then +I have only paid as many a poor soul has _paid_ before me, for an act he +_could_ not do, or think of. + + + + +THE RIDDLE. +PARIS. + + +WHEN La Fleur came up to wait upon me at supper, he told me how sorry the +master of the hotel was for his affront to me in bidding me change my +lodgings. + +A man who values a good night’s rest will not lie down with enmity in his +heart, if he can help it.—So I bid La Fleur tell the master of the hotel, +that I was sorry on my side for the occasion I had given him;—and you may +tell him, if you will, La Fleur, added I, that if the young woman should +call again, I shall not see her. + +This was a sacrifice not to him, but myself, having resolved, after so +narrow an escape, to run no more risks, but to leave Paris, if it was +possible, with all the virtue I enter’d it. + +_C’est déroger à noblesse_, _Monsieur_, said La Fleur, making me a bow +down to the ground as he said it.—_Et encore_, _Monsieur_, said he, may +change his sentiments;—and if (_par hazard_) he should like to amuse +himself,—I find no amusement in it, said I, interrupting him.— + +_Mon Dieu_! said La Fleur,—and took away. + +In an hour’s time he came to put me to bed, and was more than commonly +officious:—something hung upon his lips to say to me, or ask me, which he +could not get off: I could not conceive what it was, and indeed gave +myself little trouble to find it out, as I had another riddle so much +more interesting upon my mind, which was that of the man’s asking charity +before the door of the hotel.—I would have given anything to have got to +the bottom of it; and that, not out of curiosity,—’tis so low a principle +of enquiry, in general, I would not purchase the gratification of it with +a two-sous piece;—but a secret, I thought, which so soon and so certainly +soften’d the heart of every woman you came near, was a secret at least +equal to the philosopher’s stone; had I both the Indies, I would have +given up one to have been master of it. + +I toss’d and turn’d it almost all night long in my brains to no manner of +purpose; and when I awoke in the morning, I found my spirits as much +troubled with my dreams, as ever the King of Babylon had been with his; +and I will not hesitate to affirm, it would have puzzled all the wise men +of Paris as much as those of Chaldea to have given its interpretation. + + + + +LE DIMANCHE. +PARIS. + + +IT was Sunday; and when La Fleur came in, in the morning, with my coffee +and roll and butter, he had got himself so gallantly array’d, I scarce +knew him. + +I had covenanted at Montreuil to give him a new hat with a silver button +and loop, and four louis d’ors, _pour s’adoniser_, when we got to Paris; +and the poor fellow, to do him justice, had done wonders with it. + +He had bought a bright, clean, good scarlet coat, and a pair of breeches +of the same.—They were not a crown worse, he said, for the wearing.—I +wish’d him hang’d for telling me.—They look’d so fresh, that though I +knew the thing could not be done, yet I would rather have imposed upon my +fancy with thinking I had bought them new for the fellow, than that they +had come out of the Rue de Friperie. + +This is a nicety which makes not the heart sore at Paris. + +He had purchased, moreover, a handsome blue satin waistcoat, fancifully +enough embroidered:—this was indeed something the worse for the service +it had done, but ’twas clean scour’d;—the gold had been touch’d up, and +upon the whole was rather showy than otherwise;—and as the blue was not +violent, it suited with the coat and breeches very well: he had squeez’d +out of the money, moreover, a new bag and a solitaire; and had insisted +with the _fripier_ upon a gold pair of garters to his breeches knees.—He +had purchased muslin ruffles, _bien brodées_, with four livres of his own +money;—and a pair of white silk stockings for five more;—and to top all, +nature had given him a handsome figure, without costing him a sous. + +He entered the room thus set off, with his hair dressed in the first +style, and with a handsome bouquet in his breast.—In a word, there was +that look of festivity in everything about him, which at once put me in +mind it was Sunday;—and, by combining both together, it instantly struck +me, that the favour he wish’d to ask of me the night before, was to spend +the day as every body in Paris spent it besides. I had scarce made the +conjecture, when La Fleur, with infinite humility, but with a look of +trust, as if I should not refuse him, begg’d I would grant him the day, +_pour faire le galant vis-à-vis de sa maîtresse_. + +Now it was the very thing I intended to do myself vis-à-vis Madame de +R—.—I had retained the remise on purpose for it, and it would not have +mortified my vanity to have had a servant so well dress’d as La Fleur +was, to have got up behind it: I never could have worse spared him. + +But we must _feel_, not argue in these embarrassments.—The sons and +daughters of Service part with liberty, but not with nature, in their +contracts; they are flesh and blood, and have their little vanities and +wishes in the midst of the house of bondage, as well as their +task-masters;—no doubt, they have set their self-denials at a price,—and +their expectations are so unreasonable, that I would often disappoint +them, but that their condition puts it so much in my power to do it. + +_Behold_,—_Behold_, _I am thy servant_—disarms me at once of the powers +of a master.— + +Thou shalt go, La Fleur! said I. + +—And what mistress, La Fleur, said I, canst thou have picked up in so +little a time at Paris? La Fleur laid his hand upon his breast, and said +’twas a _petite demoiselle_, at Monsieur le Count de B—’s.—La Fleur had a +heart made for society; and, to speak the truth of him, let as few +occasions slip him as his master;—so that somehow or other,—but +how,—heaven knows,—he had connected himself with the demoiselle upon the +landing of the staircase, during the time I was taken up with my +passport; and as there was time enough for me to win the Count to my +interest, La Fleur had contrived to make it do to win the maid to his. +The family, it seems, was to be at Paris that day, and he had made a +party with her, and two or three more of the Count’s household, upon the +boulevards. + +Happy people! that once a week at least are sure to lay down all your +cares together, and dance and sing and sport away the weights of +grievance, which bow down the spirit of other nations to the earth. + + + + +THE FRAGMENT. +PARIS. + + +LA FLEUR had left me something to amuse myself with for the day more than +I had bargain’d for, or could have enter’d either into his head or mine. + +He had brought the little print of butter upon a currant leaf: and as the +morning was warm, and he had a good step to bring it, he had begg’d a +sheet of waste paper to put betwixt the currant leaf and his hand.—As +that was plate sufficient, I bade him lay it upon the table as it was; +and as I resolved to stay within all day, I ordered him to call upon the +_traîteur_, to bespeak my dinner, and leave me to breakfast by myself. + +When I had finished the butter, I threw the currant-leaf out of the +window, and was going to do the same by the waste paper;—but stopping to +read a line first, and that drawing me on to a second and third,—I +thought it better worth; so I shut the window, and drawing a chair up to +it, I sat down to read it. + +It was in the old French of Rabelais’s time, and for aught I know might +have been wrote by him:—it was moreover in a Gothic letter, and that so +faded and gone off by damps and length of time, it cost me infinite +trouble to make anything of it.—I threw it down; and then wrote a letter +to Eugenius;—then I took it up again, and embroiled my patience with it +afresh;—and then to cure that, I wrote a letter to Eliza.—Still it kept +hold of me; and the difficulty of understanding it increased but the +desire. + +I got my dinner; and after I had enlightened my mind with a bottle of +Burgundy; I at it again,—and, after two or three hours poring upon it, +with almost as deep attention as ever Gruter or Jacob Spon did upon a +nonsensical inscription, I thought I made sense of it; but to make sure +of it, the best way, I imagined, was to turn it into English, and see how +it would look then;—so I went on leisurely, as a trifling man does, +sometimes writing a sentence,—then taking a turn or two,—and then looking +how the world went, out of the window; so that it was nine o’clock at +night before I had done it.—I then began and read it as follows. + + + + +THE FRAGMENT. +PARIS. + + +—NOW, as the notary’s wife disputed the point with the notary with too +much heat,—I wish, said the notary, (throwing down the parchment) that +there was another notary here only to set down and attest all this.— + +—And what would you do then, Monsieur? said she, rising hastily up.—The +notary’s wife was a little fume of a woman, and the notary thought it +well to avoid a hurricane by a mild reply.—I would go, answered he, to +bed.—You may go to the devil, answer’d the notary’s wife. + +Now there happening to be but one bed in the house, the other two rooms +being unfurnished, as is the custom at Paris, and the notary not caring +to lie in the same bed with a woman who had but that moment sent him pell +mell to the devil, went forth with his hat and cane and short cloak, the +night being very windy, and walk’d out, ill at ease, towards the Pont +Neuf. + +Of all the bridges which ever were built, the whole world who have pass’d +over the Pont Neuf must own, that it is the noblest,—the finest,—the +grandest,—the lightest,—the longest,—the broadest, that ever conjoin’d +land and land together upon the face of the terraqueous globe. + + [_By this it seems as if the author of the fragment had not been a + Frenchman_.] + +The worst fault which divines and the doctors of the Sorbonne can allege +against it is, that if there is but a capfull of wind in or about Paris, +’tis more blasphemously _sacre Dieu’d_ there than in any other aperture +of the whole city,—and with reason good and cogent, Messieurs; for it +comes against you without crying _garde d’eau_, and with such +unpremeditable puffs, that of the few who cross it with their hats on, +not one in fifty but hazards two livres and a half, which is its full +worth. + +The poor notary, just as he was passing by the sentry, instinctively +clapp’d his cane to the side of it, but in raising it up, the point of +his cane catching hold of the loop of the sentinel’s hat, hoisted it over +the spikes of the ballustrade clear into the Seine.— + +—’_Tis an ill wind_, said a boatman, who catched it, _which blows nobody +any good_. + +The sentry, being a Gascon, incontinently twirled up his whiskers, and +levell’d his arquebuss. + +Arquebusses in those days went off with matches; and an old woman’s paper +lantern at the end of the bridge happening to be blown out, she had +borrow’d the sentry’s match to light it:—it gave a moment’s time for the +Gascon’s blood to run cool, and turn the accident better to his +advantage.—’_Tis an ill wind_, said he, catching off the notary’s castor, +and legitimating the capture with the boatman’s adage. + +The poor notary crossed the bridge, and passing along the Rue de Dauphine +into the fauxbourgs of St. Germain, lamented himself as he walked along +in this manner:— + +Luckless man that I am! said the notary, to be the sport of hurricanes +all my days:—to be born to have the storm of ill language levell’d +against me and my profession wherever I go; to be forced into marriage by +the thunder of the church to a tempest of a woman;—to be driven forth out +of my house by domestic winds, and despoil’d of my castor by pontific +ones!—to be here, bareheaded, in a windy night, at the mercy of the ebbs +and flows of accidents!—Where am I to lay my head?—Miserable man! what +wind in the two-and-thirty points of the whole compass can blow unto +thee, as it does to the rest of thy fellow-creatures, good? + +As the notary was passing on by a dark passage, complaining in this sort, +a voice call’d out to a girl, to bid her run for the next notary.—Now the +notary being the next, and availing himself of his situation, walk’d up +the passage to the door, and passing through an old sort of a saloon, was +usher’d into a large chamber, dismantled of everything but a long +military pike,—a breastplate,—a rusty old sword, and bandoleer, hung up, +equidistant, in four different places against the wall. + +An old personage who had heretofore been a gentleman, and unless decay of +fortune taints the blood along with it, was a gentleman at that time, lay +supporting his head upon his hand in his bed; a little table with a taper +burning was set close beside it, and close by the table was placed a +chair:—the notary sat him down in it; and pulling out his inkhorn and a +sheet or two of paper which he had in his pocket, he placed them before +him; and dipping his pen in his ink, and leaning his breast over the +table, he disposed everything to make the gentleman’s last will and +testament. + +Alas! _Monsieur le Notaire_, said the gentleman, raising himself up a +little, I have nothing to bequeath, which will pay the expense of +bequeathing, except the history of myself, which I could not die in +peace, unless I left it as a legacy to the world: the profits arising out +of it I bequeath to you for the pains of taking it from me.—It is a story +so uncommon, it must be read by all mankind;—it will make the fortunes of +your house.—The notary dipp’d his pen into his inkhorn.—Almighty Director +of every event in my life! said the old gentleman, looking up earnestly, +and raising his hands towards heaven,—Thou, whose hand has led me on +through such a labyrinth of strange passages down into this scene of +desolation, assist the decaying memory of an old, infirm, and +broken-hearted man;—direct my tongue by the spirit of thy eternal truth, +that this stranger may set down nought but what is written in that BOOK, +from whose records, said he, clasping his hands together, I am to be +condemn’d or acquitted!—the notary held up the point of his pen betwixt +the taper and his eye.— + +It is a story, _Monsieur le Notaire_, said the gentleman, which will +rouse up every affection in nature;—it will kill the humane, and touch +the heart of Cruelty herself with pity.— + +—The notary was inflamed with a desire to begin, and put his pen a third +time into his ink-horn—and the old gentleman, turning a little more +towards the notary, began to dictate his story in these words:— + +—And where is the rest of it, La Fleur? said I, as he just then enter’d +the room. + + + + +THE FRAGMENT, AND THE BOUQUET. {648} +PARIS. + + +WHEN La Fleur came up close to the table, and was made to comprehend what +I wanted, he told me there were only two other sheets of it, which he had +wrapped round the stalks of a bouquet to keep it together, which he had +presented to the demoiselle upon the boulevards.—Then prithee, La Fleur, +said I, step back to her to the Count de B—’s hotel, and see if thou +canst get it.—There is no doubt of it, said La Fleur;—and away he flew. + +In a very little time the poor fellow came back quite out of breath, with +deeper marks of disappointment in his looks than could arise from the +simple irreparability of the fragment. _Juste Ciel_! in less than two +minutes that the poor fellow had taken his last tender farewell of +her—his faithless mistress had given his _gage d’amour_ to one of the +Count’s footmen,—the footman to a young sempstress,—and the sempstress to +a fiddler, with my fragment at the end of it.—Our misfortunes were +involved together:—I gave a sigh,—and La Fleur echoed it back again to my +ear. + +—How perfidious! cried La Fleur.—How unlucky! said I. + +—I should not have been mortified, Monsieur, quoth La Fleur, if she had +lost it.—Nor I, La Fleur, said I, had I found it. + +Whether I did or no will be seen hereafter. + + + + +THE ACT OF CHARITY. +PARIS. + + +THE man who either disdains or fears to walk up a dark entry may be an +excellent good man, and fit for a hundred things, but he will not do to +make a good Sentimental Traveller.—I count little of the many things I +see pass at broad noonday, in large and open streets.—Nature is shy, and +hates to act before spectators; but in such an unobserved corner you +sometimes see a single short scene of hers worth all the sentiments of a +dozen French plays compounded together,—and yet they are absolutely +fine;—and whenever I have a more brilliant affair upon my hands than +common, as they suit a preacher just as well as a hero, I generally make +my sermon out of ’em;—and for the text,—“Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, +Phrygia and Pamphylia,”—is as good as any one in the Bible. + +There is a long dark passage issuing out from the Opera Comique into a +narrow street; ’tis trod by a few who humbly wait for a _fiacre_, {649} +or wish to get off quietly o’foot when the opera is done. At the end of +it, towards the theatre, ’tis lighted by a small candle, the light of +which is almost lost before you get half-way down, but near the door—’tis +more for ornament than use: you see it as a fixed star of the least +magnitude; it burns,—but does little good to the world, that we know of. + +In returning along this passage, I discerned, as I approached within five +or six paces of the door, two ladies standing arm-in-arm with their backs +against the wall, waiting, as I imagined, for a _fiacre_;—as they were +next the door, I thought they had a prior right; so edged myself up +within a yard or little more of them, and quietly took my stand.—I was in +black, and scarce seen. + +The lady next me was a tall lean figure of a woman, of about thirty-six; +the other of the same size and make, of about forty: there was no mark of +wife or widow in any one part of either of them;—they seem’d to be two +upright vestal sisters, unsapped by caresses, unbroke in upon by tender +salutations.—I could have wish’d to have made them happy:—their happiness +was destin’d that night, to come from another quarter. + +A low voice, with a good turn of expression, and sweet cadence at the end +of it, begg’d for a twelve-sous piece betwixt them, for the love of +heaven. I thought it singular that a beggar should fix the quota of an +alms—and that the sum should be twelve times as much as what is usually +given in the dark.—They both seemed astonished at it as much as +myself.—Twelve sous! said one.—A twelve-sous piece! said the other,—and +made no reply. + +The poor man said, he knew not how to ask less of ladies of their rank; +and bow’d down his head to the ground. + +Poo! said they,—we have no money. + +The beggar remained silent for a moment or two, and renew’d his +supplication. + +—Do not, my fair young ladies, said he, stop your good ears against +me.—Upon my word, honest man! said the younger, we have no change.—Then +God bless you, said the poor man, and multiply those joys which you can +give to others without change!—I observed the elder sister put her hand +into her pocket.—I’ll see, said she, if I have a sous. A sous! give +twelve, said the supplicant; Nature has been bountiful to you, be +bountiful to a poor man. + +—I would friend, with all my heart, said the younger, if I had it. + +My fair charitable! said he, addressing himself to the elder,—what is it +but your goodness and humanity which makes your bright eyes so sweet, +that they outshine the morning even in this dark passage? and what was it +which made the Marquis de Santerre and his brother say so much of you +both as they just passed by? + +The two ladies seemed much affected; and impulsively, at the same time +they both put their hands into their pocket, and each took out a +twelve-sous piece. + +The contest betwixt them and the poor supplicant was no more;—it was +continued betwixt themselves, which of the two should give the +twelve-sous piece in charity;—and, to end the dispute, they both gave it +together, and the man went away. + + + + +THE RIDDLE EXPLAINED. +PARIS. + + +I STEPPED hastily after him: it was the very man whose success in asking +charity of the women before the door of the hotel had so puzzled me;—and +I found at once his secret, or at least the basis of it:—’twas flattery. + +Delicious essence! how refreshing art thou to Nature! how strongly are +all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side! how sweetly dost thou +mix with the blood, and help it through the most difficult and tortuous +passages to the heart! + +The poor man, as he was not straiten’d for time, had given it here in a +larger dose: ’tis certain he had a way of bringing it into a less form, +for the many sudden cases he had to do with in the streets: but how he +contrived to correct, sweeten, concentre, and qualify it,—I vex not my +spirit with the enquiry;—it is enough the beggar gained two twelve-sous +pieces—and they can best tell the rest, who have gained much greater +matters by it. + + + + +PARIS. + + +WE get forwards in the world, not so much by doing services, as receiving +them; you take a withering twig, and put it in the ground; and then you +water it, because you have planted it. + +Monsieur le Count de B—, merely because he had done me one kindness in +the affair of my passport, would go on and do me another, the few days he +was at Paris, in making me known to a few people of rank; and they were +to present me to others, and so on. + +I had got master of my _secret_ just in time to turn these honours to +some little account; otherwise, as is commonly the case, I should have +dined or supp’d a single time or two round, and then, by _translating_ +French looks and attitudes into plain English, I should presently have +seen, that I had hold of the _couvert_ {652} of some more entertaining +guest; and in course should have resigned all my places one after +another, merely upon the principle that I could not keep them.—As it was, +things did not go much amiss. + +I had the honour of being introduced to the old Marquis de B—: in days of +yore he had signalized himself by some small feats of chivalry in the +_Cour d’Amour_, and had dress’d himself out to the idea of tilts and +tournaments ever since.—The Marquis de B— wish’d to have it thought the +affair was somewhere else than in his brain. “He could like to take a +trip to England,” and asked much of the English ladies.—Stay where you +are, I beseech you, Monsieur le Marquis, said I.—_Les Messieurs Anglois_ +can scarce get a kind look from them as it is.—The Marquis invited me to +supper. + +Monsieur P—, the farmer-general, was just as inquisitive about our taxes. +They were very considerable, he heard.—If we knew but how to collect +them, said I, making him a low bow. + +I could never have been invited to Mons. P—’s concerts upon any other +terms. + +I had been misrepresented to Madame de Q— as an _esprit_.—Madame de Q— +was an _esprit_ herself: she burnt with impatience to see me, and hear me +talk. I had not taken my seat, before I saw she did not care a sous +whether I had any wit or no;—I was let in, to be convinced she had. I +call heaven to witness I never once opened the door of my lips. + +Madame de V— vow’d to every creature she met—“She had never had a more +improving conversation with a man in her life.” + +There are three epochas in the empire of a French woman.—She is +coquette,—then deist,—then _dévote_: the empire during these is never +lost,—she only changes her subjects when thirty-five years and more have +unpeopled her dominion of the slaves of love, she re-peoples it with +slaves of infidelity,—and then with the slaves of the church. + +Madame de V— was vibrating betwixt the first of those epochas: the colour +of the rose was fading fast away;—she ought to have been a deist five +years before the time I had the honour to pay my first visit. + +She placed me upon the same sofa with her, for the sake of disputing the +point of religion more closely.—In short Madame de V— told me she +believed nothing.—I told Madame de V— it might be her principle, but I +was sure it could not be her interest to level the outworks, without +which I could not conceive how such a citadel as hers could be +defended;—that there was not a more dangerous thing in the world than for +a beauty to be a deist;—that it was a debt I owed my creed not to conceal +it from her;—that I had not been five minutes sat upon the sofa beside +her, but I had begun to form designs;—and what is it, but the sentiments +of religion, and the persuasion they had excited in her breast, which +could have check’d them as they rose up? + +We are not adamant, said I, taking hold of her hand;—and there is need of +all restraints, till age in her own time steals in and lays them on +us.—But my dear lady, said I, kissing her hand,—’tis too—too soon. + +I declare I had the credit all over Paris of unperverting Madame de +V—.—She affirmed to Monsieur D— and the Abbé M—, that in one half hour I +had said more for revealed religion, than all their Encyclopædia had said +against it.—I was listed directly into Madame de V—’s _coterie_;—and she +put off the epocha of deism for two years. + +I remember it was in this _coterie_, in the middle of a discourse, in +which I was showing the necessity of a _first_ cause, when the young +Count de Faineant took me by the hand to the farthest corner of the room, +to tell me my _solitaire_ was pinn’d too straight about my neck.—It +should be _plus badinant_, said the Count, looking down upon his own;—but +a word, Monsieur Yorick, _to the wise_— + +And _from the wise_, Monsieur le Count, replied I, making him a bow,—_is +enough_. + +The Count de Faineant embraced me with more ardour than ever I was +embraced by mortal man. + +For three weeks together I was of every man’s opinion I met.—_Pardi_! _ce +Monsieur Yorick a autant d’esprit que nous autres_.—_Il raisonne bien_, +said another.—_C’est un bon enfant_, said a third.—And at this price I +could have eaten and drank and been merry all the days of my life at +Paris; but ’twas a dishonest _reckoning_;—I grew ashamed of it.—It was +the gain of a slave;—every sentiment of honour revolted against it;—the +higher I got, the more was I forced upon my _beggarly system_;—the better +the _coterie_,—the more children of Art;—I languish’d for those of +Nature: and one night, after a most vile prostitution of myself to half a +dozen different people, I grew sick,—went to bed;—order’d La Fleur to get +me horses in the morning to set out for Italy. + + + + +MARIA. +MOULINES. + + +I NEVER felt what the distress of plenty was in any one shape till +now,—to travel it through the Bourbonnois, the sweetest part of +France,—in the heyday of the vintage, when Nature is pouring her +abundance into every one’s lap, and every eye is lifted up,—a journey, +through each step of which Music beats time to _Labour_, and all her +children are rejoicing as they carry in their clusters: to pass through +this with my affections flying out, and kindling at every group before +me,—and every one of them was pregnant with adventures.— + +Just heaven!—it would fill up twenty volumes;—and alas! I have but a few +small pages left of this to crowd it into,—and half of these must be +taken up with the poor Maria my friend, Mr. Shandy, met with near +Moulines. + +The story he had told of that disordered maid affected me not a little in +the reading; but when I got within the neighbourhood where she lived, it +returned so strong into the mind, that I could not resist an impulse +which prompted me to go half a league out of the road, to the village +where her parents dwelt, to enquire after her. + +’Tis going, I own, like the Knight of the Woeful Countenance in quest of +melancholy adventures. But I know not how it is, but I am never so +perfectly conscious of the existence of a soul within me, as when I am +entangled in them. + +The old mother came to the door; her looks told me the story before she +open’d her mouth.—She had lost her husband; he had died, she said, of +anguish, for the loss of Maria’s senses, about a month before.—She had +feared at first, she added, that it would have plunder’d her poor girl of +what little understanding was left;—but, on the contrary, it had brought +her more to herself:—still, she could not rest.—Her poor daughter, she +said, crying, was wandering somewhere about the road. + +Why does my pulse beat languid as I write this? and what made La Fleur, +whose heart seem’d only to be tuned to joy, to pass the back of his hand +twice across his eyes, as the woman stood and told it? I beckoned to the +postilion to turn back into the road. + +When we had got within half a league of Moulines, at a little opening in +the road leading to a thicket, I discovered poor Maria sitting under a +poplar. She was sitting with her elbow in her lap, and her head leaning +on one side within her hand:—a small brook ran at the foot of the tree. + +I bid the postilion go on with the chaise to Moulines—and La Fleur to +bespeak my supper;—and that I would walk after him. + +She was dress’d in white, and much as my friend described her, except +that her hair hung loose, which before was twisted within a silk net.—She +had superadded likewise to her jacket, a pale green riband, which fell +across her shoulder to the waist; at the end of which hung her pipe.—Her +goat had been as faithless as her lover; and she had got a little dog in +lieu of him, which she had kept tied by a string to her girdle: as I +looked at her dog, she drew him towards her with the string.—“Thou shalt +not leave me, Sylvio,” said she. I look’d in Maria’s eyes and saw she +was thinking more of her father than of her lover, or her little goat; +for, as she utter’d them, the tears trickled down her cheeks. + +I sat down close by her; and Maria let me wipe them away as they fell, +with my handkerchief.—I then steep’d it in my own,—and then in hers,—and +then in mine,—and then I wip’d hers again;—and as I did it, I felt such +undescribable emotions within me, as I am sure could not be accounted for +from any combinations of matter and motion. + +I am positive I have a soul; nor can all the books with which +materialists have pester’d the world ever convince me to the contrary. + + + + +MARIA. + + +WHEN Maria had come a little to herself, I ask’d her if she remembered a +pale thin person of a man, who had sat down betwixt her and her goat +about two years before? She said she was unsettled much at that time, +but remembered it upon two accounts:—that ill as she was, she saw the +person pitied her; and next, that her goat had stolen his handkerchief, +and she had beat him for the theft;—she had wash’d it, she said, in the +brook, and kept it ever since in her pocket to restore it to him in case +she should ever see him again, which, she added, he had half promised +her. As she told me this, she took the handkerchief out of her pocket to +let me see it; she had folded it up neatly in a couple of vine leaves, +tied round with a tendril;—on opening it, I saw an S. marked in one of +the corners. + +She had since that, she told me, stray’d as far as Rome, and walk’d round +St. Peter’s once,—and return’d back;—that she found her way alone across +the Apennines;—had travell’d over all Lombardy, without money,—and +through the flinty roads of Savoy without shoes:—how she had borne it, +and how she had got supported, she could not tell;—but _God tempers the +wind_, said Maria, _to the shorn lamb_. + +Shorn indeed! and to the quick, said I: and wast thou in my own land, +where I have a cottage, I would take thee to it, and shelter thee: thou +shouldst eat of my own bread and drink of my own cup;—I would be kind to +thy Sylvio;—in all thy weaknesses and wanderings I would seek after thee +and bring thee back;—when the sun went down I would say my prayers: and +when I had done thou shouldst play thy evening song upon thy pipe, nor +would the incense of my sacrifice be worse accepted for entering heaven +along with that of a broken heart! + +Nature melted within me, as I utter’d this; and Maria observing, as I +took out my handkerchief, that it was steep’d too much already to be of +use, would needs go wash it in the stream.—And where will you dry it, +Maria? said I.—I’ll dry it in my bosom, said she:—’twill do me good. + +And is your heart still so warm, Maria? said I. + +I touch’d upon the string on which hung all her sorrows:—she look’d with +wistful disorder for some time in my face; and then, without saying any +thing, took her pipe and play’d her service to the Virgin.—The string I +had touched ceased to vibrate;—in a moment or two Maria returned to +herself,—let her pipe fall,—and rose up. + +And where are you going, Maria? said I.—She said, to Moulines.—Let us go, +said I, together.—Maria put her arm within mine, and lengthening the +string, to let the dog follow,—in that order we enter’d Moulines. + + + + +MARIA. +MOULINES. + + +THOUGH I hate salutations and greetings in the market-place, yet, when we +got into the middle of this, I stopp’d to take my last look and last +farewell of Maria. + +Maria, though not tall, was nevertheless of the first order of fine +forms:—affliction had touched her looks with something that was scarce +earthly;—still she was feminine;—and so much was there about her of all +that the heart wishes, or the eye looks for in woman, that could the +traces be ever worn out of her brain, and those of Eliza out of mine, she +should _not only eat of my bread and drink of my own cup_, but Maria +should lie in my bosom, and be unto me as a daughter. + +Adieu, poor luckless maiden!—Imbibe the oil and wine which the compassion +of a stranger, as he journeyeth on his way, now pours into thy +wounds;—the Being, who has twice bruised thee, can only bind them up for +ever. + + + + +THE BOURBONNNOIS. + + +THERE was nothing from which I had painted out for my self so joyous a +riot of the affections, as in this journey in the vintage, through this +part of France; but pressing through this gate, of sorrow to it, my +sufferings have totally unfitted me. In every scene of festivity, I saw +Maria in the background of the piece, sitting pensive under her poplar; +and I had got almost to Lyons before I was able to cast a shade across +her. + +—Dear Sensibility! source inexhausted of all that’s precious in our joys, +or costly in our sorrows! thou chainest thy martyr down upon his bed of +straw—and ’tis thou who lift’st him up to Heaven!—Eternal Fountain of our +feelings!—’tis here I trace thee—and this is thy “_divinity which stirs +within me_;”—not that, in some sad and sickening moments, “_my soul +shrinks back upon herself_, _and startles at destruction_;”—mere pomp of +words!—but that I feel some generous joys and generous cares beyond +myself;—all comes from thee, great—great SENSORIUM of the world! which +vibrates, if a hair of our heads but falls upon the ground, in the +remotest desert of thy creation.—Touch’d with thee, Eugenius draws my +curtain when I languish—hears my tale of symptoms, and blames the weather +for the disorder of his nerves. Thou giv’st a portion of it sometimes to +the roughest peasant who traverses the bleakest mountains;—he finds the +lacerated lamb of another’s flock.—This moment I behold him leaning with +his head against his crook, with piteous inclination looking down upon +it!—Oh! had I come one moment sooner! it bleeds to death!—his gentle +heart bleeds with it.— + +Peace to thee, generous swain!—I see thou walkest off with anguish,—but +thy joys shall balance it;—for, happy is thy cottage,—and happy is the +sharer of it,—and happy are the lambs which sport about you! + + + + +THE SUPPER. + + +A SHOE coming loose from the fore foot of the thill-horse, at the +beginning of the ascent of mount Taurira, the postilion dismounted, +twisted the shoe off, and put it in his pocket; as the ascent was of five +or six miles, and that horse our main dependence, I made a point of +having the shoe fastened on again, as well as we could; but the postilion +had thrown away the nails, and the hammer in the chaise box being of no +great use without them, I submitted to go on. + +He had not mounted half a mile higher, when, coming to a flinty piece of +road, the poor devil lost a second shoe, and from off his other fore +foot. I then got out of the chaise in good earnest; and seeing a house +about a quarter of a mile to the left hand, with a great deal to do I +prevailed upon the postilion to turn up to it. The look of the house, +and of every thing about it, as we drew nearer, soon reconciled me to the +disaster.—It was a little farm-house, surrounded with about twenty acres +of vineyard, about as much corn;—and close to the house, on one side, was +a _potagerie_ of an acre and a half, full of everything which could make +plenty in a French peasant’s house;—and, on the other side, was a little +wood, which furnished wherewithal to dress it. It was about eight in the +evening when I got to the house—so I left the postilion to manage his +point as he could;—and, for mine, I walked directly into the house. + +The family consisted of an old grey-headed man and his wife, with five or +six sons and sons-in-law, and their several wives, and a joyous genealogy +out of them. + +They were all sitting down together to their lentil-soup; a large wheaten +loaf was in the middle of the table; and a flagon of wine at each end of +it promised joy through the stages of the repast:—’twas a feast of love. + +The old man rose up to meet me, and with a respectful cordiality would +have me sit down at the table; my heart was set down the moment I enter’d +the room; so I sat down at once like a son of the family; and to invest +myself in the character as speedily as I could, I instantly borrowed the +old man’s knife, and taking up the loaf, cut myself a hearty luncheon; +and, as I did it, I saw a testimony in every eye, not only of an honest +welcome, but of a welcome mix’d with thanks that I had not seem’d to +doubt it. + +Was it this? or tell me, Nature, what else it was that made this morsel +so sweet,—and to what magic I owe it, that the draught I took of their +flagon was so delicious with it, that they remain upon my palate to this +hour? + +If the supper was to my taste,—the grace which followed it was much more +so. + + + + +THE GRACE. + + +WHEN supper was over, the old man gave a knock upon the table with the +haft of his knife, to bid them prepare for the dance: the moment the +signal was given, the women and girls ran altogether into a back +apartment to tie up their hair,—and the young men to the door to wash +their faces, and change their sabots; and in three minutes every soul was +ready upon a little esplanade before the house to begin.—The old man and +his wife came out last, and placing me betwixt them, sat down upon a sofa +of turf by the door. + +The old man had some fifty years ago been no mean performer upon the +_vielle_,—and at the age he was then of, touch’d it well enough for the +purpose. His wife sung now and then a little to the tune,—then +intermitted,—and join’d her old man again, as their children and +grand-children danced before them. + +It was not till the middle of the second dance, when, from some pauses in +the movements, wherein they all seemed to look up, I fancied I could +distinguish an elevation of spirit different from that which is the cause +or the effect of simple jollity. In a word, I thought I beheld +_Religion_ mixing in the dance:—but, as I had never seen her so engaged, +I should have look’d upon it now as one of the illusions of an +imagination which is eternally misleading me, had not the old man, as +soon as the dance ended, said, that this was their constant way; and that +all his life long he had made it a rule, after supper was over, to call +out his family to dance and rejoice; believing, he said, that a cheerful +and contented mind was the best sort of thanks to heaven that an +illiterate peasant could pay,— + +Or a learned prelate either, said I. + + + + +THE CASE OF DELICACY. + + +WHEN you have gained the top of Mount Taurira, you run presently down to +Lyons:—adieu, then, to all rapid movements! ’Tis a journey of caution; +and it fares better with sentiments, not to be in a hurry with them; so I +contracted with a _voiturin_ to take his time with a couple of mules, and +convoy me in my own chaise safe to Turin, through Savoy. + +Poor, patient, quiet, honest people! fear not: your poverty, the treasury +of your simple virtues, will not be envied you by the world, nor will +your valleys be invaded by it.—Nature! in the midst of thy disorders, +thou art still friendly to the scantiness thou hast created: with all thy +great works about thee, little hast thou left to give, either to the +scythe or to the sickle;—but to that little thou grantest safety and +protection; and sweet are the dwellings which stand so shelter’d. + +Let the way-worn traveller vent his complaints upon the sudden turns and +dangers of your roads,—your rocks,—your precipices;—the difficulties of +getting up,—the horrors of getting down,—mountains impracticable,—and +cataracts, which roll down great stones from their summits, and block his +road up.—The peasants had been all day at work in removing a fragment of +this kind between St. Michael and Madane; and, by the time my _voiturin_ +got to the place, it wanted full two hours of completing before a passage +could any how be gain’d: there was nothing but to wait with +patience;—’twas a wet and tempestuous night; so that by the delay, and +that together, the _voiturin_ found himself obliged to put up five miles +short of his stage at a little decent kind of an inn by the roadside. + +I forthwith took possession of my bedchamber—got a good fire—order’d +supper; and was thanking heaven it was no worse, when a _voiturin_ arrived +with a lady in it and her servant maid. + +As there was no other bed-chamber in the house, the hostess,—without much +nicety, led them into mine, telling them, as she usher’d them in, that +there was nobody in it but an English gentleman;—that there were two good +beds in it, and a closet within the room which held another. The accent +in which she spoke of this third bed, did not say much for it;—however, +she said there were three beds and but three people, and she durst say, +the gentleman would do anything to accommodate matters.—I left not the +lady a moment to make a conjecture about it—so instantly made a +declaration that I would do anything in my power. + +As this did not amount to an absolute surrender of my bed-chamber, I +still felt myself so much the proprietor, as to have a right to do the +honours of it;—so I desired the lady to sit down,—pressed her into the +warmest seat,—called for more wood,—desired the hostess to enlarge the +plan of the supper, and to favour us with the very best wine. + +The lady had scarce warm’d herself five minutes at the fire, before she +began to turn her head back, and give a look at the beds; and the oftener +she cast her eyes that way, the more they return’d perplexd;—I felt for +her—and for myself: for in a few minutes, what by her looks, and the case +itself, I found myself as much embarrassed as it was possible the lady +could be herself. + +That the beds we were to lie in were in one and the same room, was enough +simply by itself to have excited all this;—but the position of them, for +they stood parallel, and so very close to each other as only to allow +space for a small wicker chair betwixt them, rendered the affair still +more oppressive to us;—they were fixed up moreover near the fire; and the +projection of the chimney on one side, and a large beam which cross’d the +room on the other, formed a kind of recess for them that was no way +favourable to the nicety of our sensations:—if anything could have added +to it, it was that the two beds were both of them so very small, as to +cut us off from every idea of the lady and the maid lying together; which +in either of them, could it have been feasible, my lying beside them, +though a thing not to be wish’d, yet there was nothing in it so terrible +which the imagination might not have pass’d over without torment. + +As for the little room within, it offer’d little or no consolation to us: +’twas a damp, cold closet, with a half dismantled window-shutter, and +with a window which had neither glass nor oil paper in it to keep out the +tempest of the night. I did not endeavour to stifle my cough when the +lady gave a peep into it; so it reduced the case in course to this +alternative—That the lady should sacrifice her health to her feelings, +and take up with the closet herself, and abandon the bed next mine to her +maid,—or that the girl should take the closet, &c., &c. + +The lady was a Piedmontese of about thirty, with a glow of health in her +cheeks. The maid was a Lyonoise of twenty, and as brisk and lively a +French girl as ever moved.—There were difficulties every way,—and the +obstacle of the stone in the road, which brought us into the distress, +great as it appeared whilst the peasants were removing it, was but a +pebble to what lay in our ways now.—I have only to add, that it did not +lessen the weight which hung upon our spirits, that we were both too +delicate to communicate what we felt to each other upon the occasion. + +We sat down to supper; and had we not had more generous wine to it than a +little inn in Savoy could have furnish’d, our tongues had been tied up, +till necessity herself had set them at liberty;—but the lady having a few +bottles of Burgundy in her voiture, sent down her _fille de chambre_ for +a couple of them; so that by the time supper was over, and we were left +alone, we felt ourselves inspired with a strength of mind sufficient to +talk, at least, without reserve upon our situation. We turn’d it every +way, and debated and considered it in all kinds of lights in the course +of a two hours’ negotiation; at the end of which the articles were +settled finally betwixt us, and stipulated for in form and manner of a +treaty of peace,—and I believe with as much religion and good faith on +both sides as in any treaty which has yet had the honour of being handed +down to posterity. + +They were as follow:— + +First, as the right of the bed-chamber is in Monsieur,—and he thinking +the bed next to the fire to be the warmest, he insists upon the +concession on the lady’s side of taking up with it. + +Granted, on the part of Madame; with a proviso, That as the curtains of +that bed are of a flimsy transparent cotton, and appear likewise too +scanty to draw close, that the _fille de chambre_ shall fasten up the +opening, either by corking pins, or needle and thread, in such manner as +shall be deem’d a sufficient barrier on the side of Monsieur. + +2dly. It is required on the part of Madame, that Monsieur shall lie the +whole night through in his _robe de chambre_. + +Rejected: inasmuch as Monsieur is not worth a _robe de chambre_; he +having nothing in his portmanteau but six shirts and a black silk pair of +breeches. + +The mentioning the silk pair of breeches made an entire change of the +article,—for the breeches were accepted as an equivalent for the _robe de +chambre_; and so it was stipulated and agreed upon, that I should lie in +my black silk breeches all night. + +3dly. It was insisted upon and stipulated for by the lady, that after +Monsieur was got to bed, and the candle and fire extinguished, that +Monsieur should not speak one single word the whole night. + +Granted; provided Monsieur’s saying his prayers might not be deemed an +infraction of the treaty. + +There was but one point forgot in this treaty, and that was the manner in +which the lady and myself should be obliged to undress and get to +bed;—there was but one way of doing it, and that I leave to the reader to +devise; protesting as I do it, that if it is not the most delicate in +nature, ’tis the fault of his own imagination,—against which this is not +my first complaint. + +Now, when we were got to bed, whether it was the novelty of the +situation, or what it was, I know not; but so it was, I could not shut my +eyes; I tried this side, and that, and turn’d and turn’d again, till a +full hour after midnight; when Nature and patience both wearing out,—O, +my God! said I. + +—You have broke the treaty, Monsieur, said the lady, who had no more +slept than myself.—I begg’d a thousand pardons—but insisted it was no +more than an ejaculation. She maintained ’twas an entire infraction of +the treaty—I maintain’d it was provided for in the clause of the third +article. + +The lady would by no means give up her point, though she weaken’d her +barrier by it; for in the warmth of the dispute, I could hear two or +three corking pins fall out of the curtain to the ground. + +Upon my word and honour, Madame, said I,—stretching my arm out of bed by +way of asseveration.— + +(I was going to have added, that I would not have trespassed against the +remotest idea of decorum for the world);— + +But the _fille de chambre_ hearing there were words between us, and +fearing that hostilities would ensue in course, had crept silently out of +her closet, and it being totally dark, had stolen so close to our beds, +that she had got herself into the narrow passage which separated them, +and had advanced so far up as to be in a line betwixt her mistress and +me:— + +So that when I stretch’d out my hand I caught hold of the _fille de +chambre’s_— + + * * * * * + + THE END + + * * * * * + + + + +FOOTNOTES. + + +{557} All the effects of strangers (Swiss and Scotch excepted) dying in +France, are seized by virtue of this law, though the heir be upon the +spot—the profit of these contingencies being farmed, there is no redress. + +{562} A chaise, so called, in France, from its holding but one person. + +{580} Vide S—’s Travels: [_i.e._ Dr. Smollett’s “Travels through France +and Italy.”—ED.] + +{588} Post-horse. + +{648} Nosegay. + +{649} Hackney coach. + +{652} Plate, napkin, knife, fork and spoon. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: A Sentimental Journey through France and Italy</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Laurence Sterne</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Editor: Henry Morley</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: February 12, 1997 [eBook #804]<br /> +[Most recently updated: October 24, 2021]</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: David Price</div> +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY ***</div> + +<h1><span class="GutSmall">A</span><br /> +SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THROUGH</span><br /> +FRANCE AND ITALY;</h1> +<p style="text-align: center">BY MR. YORICK.</p> + +<p style="text-align: center">[THE REV. LAURENCE STERNE, +M.A.]</p> + +<p style="text-align: center">[<span class="smcap">First +published in</span> 1768.]</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">They</span> order, said I, this matter better in +France.—You have been in France? said my gentleman, turning +quick upon me, with the most civil triumph in the +world.—Strange! quoth I, debating the matter with myself, +That one and twenty miles sailing, for ’tis absolutely no +further from Dover to Calais, should give a man these +rights:—I’ll look into them: so, giving up the +argument,—I went straight to my lodgings, put up half a +dozen shirts and a black pair of silk breeches,—“the +coat I have on,” said I, looking at the sleeve, “will +do;”—took a place in the Dover stage; and the packet +sailing at nine the next morning,—by three I had got sat +down to my dinner upon a fricaseed chicken, so incontestably in +France, that had I died that night of an indigestion, the whole +world could not have suspended the effects of the <i>droits +d’aubaine</i>; <a name="citation557"></a><a +href="#footnote557" class="citation">[557]</a>—my shirts, +and black pair of silk breeches,—portmanteau and all, must +have gone to the King of France;—even the little picture +which I have so long worn, and so often have told thee, Eliza, I +would carry with me into my grave, would have been torn from my +neck!—Ungenerous! to seize upon the wreck of an unwary +passenger, whom your subjects had beckoned to their +coast!—By heaven! Sire, it is not well done; and much does +it grieve me, ’tis the monarch of a people so civilized and +courteous, and so renowned for sentiment and fine feelings, that +I have to reason with!—</p> + +<p>But I have scarce set a foot in your dominions.—</p> + +<h2>CALAIS.</h2> + +<p>When I had fished my dinner, and drank the King of +France’s health, to satisfy my mind that I bore him no +spleen, but, on the contrary, high honour for the humanity of his +temper,—I rose up an inch taller for the accommodation.</p> + +<p>—No—said I—the Bourbon is by no means a +cruel race: they may be misled, like other people; but there is a +mildness in their blood. As I acknowledged this, I felt a +suffusion of a finer kind upon my cheek—more warm and +friendly to man, than what Burgundy (at least of two livres a +bottle, which was such as I had been drinking) could have +produced.</p> + +<p>—Just God! said I, kicking my portmanteau aside, what is +there in this world’s goods which should sharpen our +spirits, and make so many kind-hearted brethren of us fall out so +cruelly as we do by the way?</p> + +<p>When man is at peace with man, how much lighter than a feather +is the heaviest of metals in his hand! he pulls out his purse, +and holding it airily and uncompressed, looks round him, as if he +sought for an object to share it with.—In doing this, I +felt every vessel in my frame dilate,—the arteries beat all +cheerily together, and every power which sustained life, +performed it with so little friction, that ’twould have +confounded the most <i>physical précieuse</i> in France; +with all her materialism, she could scarce have called me a +machine.—</p> + +<p>I’m confident, said I to myself, I should have overset +her creed.</p> + +<p>The accession of that idea carried nature, at that time, as +high as she could go;—I was at peace with the world before, +and this finish’d the treaty with myself.—</p> + +<p>—Now, was I King of France, cried I—what a +moment for an orphan to have begg’d his father’s +portmanteau of me!</p> + +<h2>THE MONK.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> scarce uttered the words, +when a poor monk of the order of St. Francis came into the room +to beg something for his convent. No man cares to have his +virtues the sport of contingencies—or one man may be +generous, as another is puissant;—<i>sed non quoad +hanc</i>—or be it as it may,—for there is no regular +reasoning upon the ebbs and flows of our humours; they may depend +upon the same causes, for aught I know, which influence the tides +themselves: ’twould oft be no discredit to us, to suppose +it was so: I’m sure at least for myself, that in many a +case I should be more highly satisfied, to have it said by the +world, “I had had an affair with the moon, in which there +was neither sin nor shame,” than have it pass altogether as +my own act and deed, wherein there was so much of both.</p> + +<p>—But, be this as it may,—the moment I cast my eyes +upon him, I was predetermined not to give him a single sous; and, +accordingly, I put my purse into my pocket—buttoned +it—set myself a little more upon my centre, and advanced up +gravely to him; there was something, I fear, forbidding in my +look: I have his figure this moment before my eyes, and think +there was that in it which deserved better.</p> + +<p>The monk, as I judged by the break in his tonsure, a few +scattered white hairs upon his temples, being all that remained +of it, might be about seventy;—but from his eyes, and that +sort of fire which was in them, which seemed more temper’d +by courtesy than years, could be no more than sixty:—Truth +might lie between—He was certainly sixty-five; and the +general air of his countenance, notwithstanding something +seem’d to have been planting wrinkles in it before their +time, agreed to the account.</p> + +<p>It was one of those heads which Guido has often +painted,—mild, pale—penetrating, free from all +commonplace ideas of fat contented ignorance looking downwards upon +the earth;—it look’d forwards; but look’d as if +it look’d at something beyond this world.—How one of +his order came by it, heaven above, who let it fall upon a +monk’s shoulders best knows: but it would have suited a +Bramin, and had I met it upon the plains of Indostan, I had +reverenced it.</p> + +<p>The rest of his outline may be given in a few strokes; one +might put it into the hands of any one to design, for ’twas +neither elegant nor otherwise, but as character and expression +made it so: it was a thin, spare form, something above the common +size, if it lost not the distinction by a bend forward in the +figure,—but it was the attitude of Intreaty; and, as it now +stands presented to my imagination, it gained more than it lost +by it.</p> + +<p>When he had entered the room three paces, he stood still; and +laying his left hand upon his breast (a slender white staff with +which he journey’d being in his right)—when I had got +close up to him, he introduced himself with the little story of +the wants of his convent, and the poverty of his order;—and +did it with so simple a grace,—and such an air of +deprecation was there in the whole cast of his look and +figure,—I was bewitch’d not to have been struck with +it.</p> + +<p>—A better reason was, I had predetermined not to give +him a single sous.</p> + +<h2>THE MONK.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p>—’<span class="smcap">Tis</span> very true, said +I, replying to a cast upwards with his eyes, with which he had +concluded his address;—’tis very true,—and +heaven be their resource who have no other but the charity of the +world, the stock of which, I fear, is no way sufficient for the +many <i>great claims</i> which are hourly made upon it.</p> + +<p>As I pronounced the words <i>great claims</i>, he gave a +slight glance with his eye downwards upon the sleeve of his +tunic:—I felt the full force of the appeal—I +acknowledge it, said I:—a coarse habit, and that but once +in three years with meagre diet,—are no great matters; and the +true point of pity is, as they can be earn’d in the world +with so little industry, that your order should wish to procure +them by pressing upon a fund which is the property of the lame, +the blind, the aged and the infirm;—the captive who lies +down counting over and over again the days of his afflictions, +languishes also for his share of it; and had you been of the +<i>order of mercy</i>, instead of the order of St. Francis, poor +as I am, continued I, pointing at my portmanteau, full cheerfully +should it have been open’d to you, for the ransom of the +unfortunate.—The monk made me a bow.—But of all +others, resumed I, the unfortunate of our own country, surely, +have the first rights; and I have left thousands in distress upon +our own shore.—The monk gave a cordial wave with his +head,—as much as to say, No doubt there is misery enough in +every corner of the world, as well as within our +convent—But we distinguish, said I, laying my hand upon the +sleeve of his tunic, in return for his appeal—we +distinguish, my good father! betwixt those who wish only to eat +the bread of their own labour—and those who eat the bread +of other people’s, and have no other plan in life, but to +get through it in sloth and ignorance, <i>for the love of +God</i>.</p> + +<p>The poor Franciscan made no reply: a hectic of a moment +pass’d across his cheek, but could not tarry—Nature +seemed to have done with her resentments in him;—he showed +none:—but letting his staff fall within his arms, he +pressed both his hands with resignation upon his breast, and +retired.</p> + +<h2>THE MONK.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">My</span> heart smote me the moment he +shut the door—Psha! said I, with an air of carelessness, +three several times—but it would not do: every ungracious +syllable I had utter’d crowded back into my imagination: I +reflected, I had no right over the poor Franciscan, but to deny +him; and that the punishment of that was enough to the +disappointed, without the addition of unkind language.—I +consider’d his gray hairs—his courteous figure seem’d +to re-enter and gently ask me what injury he had done +me?—and why I could use him thus?—I would have given +twenty livres for an advocate.—I have behaved very ill, +said I within myself; but I have only just set out upon my +travels; and shall learn better manners as I get along.</p> + +<h2>THE DESOBLIGEANT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> a man is discontented with +himself, it has one advantage however, that it puts him into an +excellent frame of mind for making a bargain. Now there +being no travelling through France and Italy without a +chaise,—and nature generally prompting us to the thing we +are fittest for, I walk’d out into the coach-yard to buy or +hire something of that kind to my purpose: an old +<i>désobligeant</i> <a name="citation562"></a><a +href="#footnote562" class="citation">[562]</a> in the furthest +corner of the court, hit my fancy at first sight, so I instantly +got into it, and finding it in tolerable harmony with my +feelings, I ordered the waiter to call Monsieur Dessein, the +master of the hotel:—but Monsieur Dessein being gone to +vespers, and not caring to face the Franciscan, whom I saw on the +opposite side of the court, in conference with a lady just +arrived at the inn,—I drew the taffeta curtain betwixt us, +and being determined to write my journey, I took out my pen and +ink and wrote the preface to it in the +<i>désobligeant</i>.</p> + +<h2>PREFACE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">IN THE DESOBLIGEANT.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> must have been observed by many +a peripatetic philosopher, That nature has set up by her own +unquestionable authority certain boundaries and fences to +circumscribe the discontent of man; she has effected her purpose +in the quietest and easiest manner by laying him under almost +insuperable obligations to work out his ease, and to sustain his +sufferings at home. It is there only that she has provided +him with the most suitable objects to partake of his happiness, +and bear a part of that burden which in all countries and ages +has ever been too heavy for one pair of shoulders. +’Tis true, we are endued with an imperfect power of +spreading our happiness sometimes beyond <i>her</i> limits, but +’tis so ordered, that, from the want of languages, +connections, and dependencies, and from the difference in +education, customs, and habits, we lie under so many impediments +in communicating our sensations out of our own sphere, as often +amount to a total impossibility.</p> + +<p>It will always follow from hence, that the balance of +sentimental commerce is always against the expatriated +adventurer: he must buy what he has little occasion for, at their +own price;—his conversation will seldom be taken in +exchange for theirs without a large discount,—and this, by +the by, eternally driving him into the hands of more equitable +brokers, for such conversation as he can find, it requires no +great spirit of divination to guess at his party—</p> + +<p>This brings me to my point; and naturally leads me (if the +see-saw of this <i>désobligeant</i> will but let me get +on) into the efficient as well as final causes of +travelling—</p> + +<p>Your idle people that leave their native country, and go +abroad for some reason or reasons which may be derived from one +of these general causes:—</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Infirmity of body,<br /> +Imbecility of mind, or<br /> +Inevitable necessity.</p> + +<p>The first two include all those who travel by land or by +water, labouring with pride, curiosity, vanity, or spleen, +subdivided and combined <i>ad infinitum</i>.</p> + +<p>The third class includes the whole army of peregrine martyrs; +more especially those travellers who set out upon their travels +with the benefit of the clergy, either as delinquents travelling +under the direction of governors recommended by the +magistrate;—or young gentlemen transported by the cruelty +of parents and guardians, and travelling under the direction of +governors recommended by Oxford, Aberdeen, and Glasgow.</p> + +<p>There is a fourth class, but their number is so small that they would +not deserve a distinction, were it not necessary in a work of +this nature to observe the greatest precision and nicety, to +avoid a confusion of character. And these men I speak of, +are such as cross the seas and sojourn in a land of strangers, +with a view of saving money for various reasons and upon various +pretences: but as they might also save themselves and others a +great deal of unnecessary trouble by saving their money at +home,—and as their reasons for travelling are the least +complex of any other species of emigrants, I shall distinguish +these gentlemen by the name of</p> + +<p style="text-align: center">Simple Travellers.</p> + +<p>Thus the whole circle of travellers may be reduced to the +following <i>heads</i>:—</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Idle Travellers,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Inquisitive Travellers,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Lying Travellers,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Proud Travellers,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Vain Travellers,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">Splenetic Travellers.</p> + +<p>Then follow:</p> + +<p class="gutindent">The Travellers of Necessity,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">The Delinquent and Felonious Traveller,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">The Unfortunate and Innocent Traveller,</p> + +<p class="gutindent">The Simple Traveller,</p> + +<p>And last of all (if you please) The Sentimental Traveller, +(meaning thereby myself) who have travell’d, and of which I +am now sitting down to give an account,—as much out of +<i>Necessity</i>, and the <i>besoin de Voyager</i>, as any one in +the class.</p> + +<p>I am well aware, at the same time, as both my travels and +observations will be altogether of a different cast from any of +my forerunners, that I might have insisted upon a whole nitch +entirely to myself;—but I should break in upon the confines +of the <i>Vain</i> Traveller, in wishing to draw attention +towards me, till I have some better grounds for it than the mere +<i>Novelty of my Vehicle</i>.</p> + +<p>It is sufficient for my reader, if he has been a traveller +himself, that with study and reflection hereupon he may be able +to determine his own place and rank in the catalogue;—it will be +one step towards knowing himself; as it is great odds but he +retains some tincture and resemblance, of what he imbibed or +carried out, to the present hour.</p> + +<p>The man who first transplanted the grape of Burgundy to the +Cape of Good Hope (observe he was a Dutchman) never dreamt of +drinking the same wine at the Cape, that the same grape produced +upon the French mountains,—he was too phlegmatic for +that—but undoubtedly he expected to drink some sort of +vinous liquor; but whether good or bad, or indifferent,—he +knew enough of this world to know, that it did not depend upon +his choice, but that what is generally called <i>choice</i>, was +to decide his success: however, he hoped for the best; and in +these hopes, by an intemperate confidence in the fortitude of his +head, and the depth of his discretion, <i>Mynheer</i> might +possibly oversee both in his new vineyard; and by discovering his +nakedness, become a laughing stock to his people.</p> + +<p>Even so it fares with the Poor Traveller, sailing and posting +through the politer kingdoms of the globe, in pursuit of +knowledge and improvements.</p> + +<p>Knowledge and improvements are to be got by sailing and +posting for that purpose; but whether useful knowledge and real +improvements is all a lottery;—and even where the +adventurer is successful, the acquired stock must be used with +caution and sobriety, to turn to any profit:—but, as the +chances run prodigiously the other way, both as to the +acquisition and application, I am of opinion, That a man would +act as wisely, if he could prevail upon himself to live contented +without foreign knowledge or foreign improvements, especially if +he lives in a country that has no absolute want of +either;—and indeed, much grief of heart has it oft and many +a time cost me, when I have observed how many a foul step the +Inquisitive Traveller has measured to see sights and look into +discoveries; all which, as Sancho Panza said to Don Quixote, they +might have seen dry-shod at home. It is an age so full of +light, that there is scarce a country or corner in Europe whose +beams are not crossed and interchanged with +others.—Knowledge in most of its branches, and in most +affairs, is like music in an Italian street, whereof +those may partake who pay nothing.—But there is no nation +under heaven—and God is my record (before whose tribunal I +must one day come and give an account of this work)—that I +do not speak it vauntingly,—but there is no nation under +heaven abounding with more variety of learning,—where the +sciences may be more fitly woo’d, or more surely won, than +here,—where art is encouraged, and will so soon rise +high,—where Nature (take her altogether) has so little to +answer for,—and, to close all, where there is more wit and +variety of character to feed the mind with:—Where then, my +dear countrymen, are you going?—</p> + +<p>We are only looking at this chaise, said they.—Your most +obedient servant, said I, skipping out of it, and pulling off my +hat.—We were wondering, said one of them, who, I found was +an <i>Inquisitive Traveller</i>,—what could occasion its +motion.—’Twas the agitation, said I, coolly, of +writing a preface.—I never heard, said the other, who was a +<i>Simple Traveller</i>, of a preface wrote in a +<i>désobligeant</i>.—It would have been better, said +I, in a <i>vis-a-vis</i>.</p> + +<p>—<i>As an Englishman does not travel to see +Englishmen</i>, I retired to my room.</p> + +<h2>CALAIS.</h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">perceived</span> that something +darken’d the passage more than myself, as I stepp’d +along it to my room; it was effectually Mons. Dessein, the master +of the hôtel, who had just returned from vespers, and with +his hat under his arm, was most complaisantly following me, to +put me in mind of my wants. I had wrote myself pretty well +out of conceit with the <i>désobligeant</i>, and Mons. +Dessein speaking of it, with a shrug, as if it would no way suit +me, it immediately struck my fancy that it belong’d to some +<i>Innocent Traveller</i>, who, on his return home, had left it +to Mons. Dessein’s honour to make the most of. Four +months had elapsed since it had finished its career of Europe in +the corner of Mons. Dessein’s coach-yard; and having +sallied out from thence but a vampt-up business at the first, +though it had been twice taken to pieces on Mount Sennis, it had +not profited much by its adventures,—but by none so +little as the standing so many months unpitied in the corner of +Mons. Dessein’s coach-yard. Much indeed was not to be +said for it,—but something might;—and when a few +words will rescue misery out of her distress, I hate the man who +can be a churl of them.</p> + +<p>—Now was I the master of this hôtel, said I, +laying the point of my fore-finger on Mons. Dessein’s +breast, I would inevitably make a point of getting rid of this +unfortunate <i>désobligeant</i>;—it stands swinging +reproaches at you every time you pass by it.</p> + +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! said Mons. Dessein,—I have no +interest—Except the interest, said I, which men of a +certain turn of mind take, Mons. Dessein, in their own +sensations,—I’m persuaded, to a man who feels for +others as well as for himself, every rainy night, disguise it as +you will, must cast a damp upon your spirits:—You suffer, +Mons. Dessein, as much as the machine—</p> + +<p>I have always observed, when there is as much <i>sour</i> as +<i>sweet</i> in a compliment, that an Englishman is eternally at +a loss within himself, whether to take it, or let it alone: a +Frenchman never is: Mons. Dessein made me a bow.</p> + +<p><i>C’est bien vrai</i>, said he.—But in this case +I should only exchange one disquietude for another, and with +loss: figure to yourself, my dear Sir, that in giving you a +chaise which would fall to pieces before you had got half-way to +Paris,—figure to yourself how much I should suffer, in +giving an ill impression of myself to a man of honour, and lying +at the mercy, as I must do, <i>d’un homme +d’esprit</i>.</p> + +<p>The dose was made up exactly after my own prescription; so I +could not help tasting it,—and, returning Mons. Dessein his +bow, without more casuistry we walk’d together towards his +Remise, to take a view of his magazine of chaises.</p> + +<h2>IN THE STREET.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> must needs be a hostile kind of +a world, when the buyer (if it be but of a sorry post-chaise) +cannot go forth with the seller thereof into the street to +terminate the difference betwixt them, but he instantly falls into +the same frame of mind, and views his conventionist with the same +sort of eye, as if he was going along with him to Hyde-park +corner to fight a duel. For my own part, being but a poor +swordsman, and no way a match for Monsieur Dessein, I felt the +rotation of all the movements within me, to which the situation +is incident;—I looked at Monsieur Dessein through and +through—eyed him as he walk’d along in +profile,—then, <i>en face</i>;—thought like a +Jew,—then a Turk,—disliked his wig,—cursed him +by my gods,—wished him at the devil.—</p> + +<p>—And is all this to be lighted up in the heart for a +beggarly account of three or four louis d’ors, which is the +most I can be overreached in?—Base passion! said I, turning +myself about, as a man naturally does upon a sudden reverse of +sentiment,—base, ungentle passion! thy hand is against +every man, and every man’s hand against thee.—Heaven +forbid! said she, raising her hand up to her forehead, for I had +turned full in front upon the lady whom I had seen in conference +with the monk:—she had followed us +unperceived.—Heaven forbid, indeed! said I, offering her my +own;—she had a black pair of silk gloves, open only at the +thumb and two fore-fingers, so accepted it without +reserve,—and I led her up to the door of the Remise.</p> + +<p>Monsieur Dessein had <i>diabled</i> the key above fifty times +before he had found out he had come with a wrong one in his hand: +we were as impatient as himself to have it opened; and so +attentive to the obstacle that I continued holding her hand +almost without knowing it: so that Monsieur Dessein left us +together with her hand in mine, and with our faces turned towards +the door of the Remise, and said he would be back in five +minutes.</p> + +<p>Now a colloquy of five minutes, in such a situation, is worth +one of as many ages, with your faces turned towards the street: +in the latter case, ’tis drawn from the objects and +occurrences without;—when your eyes are fixed upon a dead +blank,—you draw purely from yourselves. A silence of +a single moment upon Mons. Dessein’s leaving us, had been +fatal to the situation—she had infallibly turned +about;—so I begun the conversation instantly.—</p> + +<p>—But what were the temptations (as I write not to +apologize for the weaknesses of my heart in this tour,—but +to give an account of them)—shall be described with the +same simplicity with which I felt them.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I told the reader that I did +not care to get out of the <i>désobligeant</i>, because I +saw the monk in close conference with a lady just arrived at the +inn—I told him the truth,—but I did not tell him the +whole truth; for I was as full as much restrained by the +appearance and figure of the lady he was talking to. +Suspicion crossed my brain and said, he was telling her what had +passed: something jarred upon it within me,—I wished him at +his convent.</p> + +<p>When the heart flies out before the understanding, it saves +the judgment a world of pains.—I was certain she was of a +better order of beings;—however, I thought no more of her, +but went on and wrote my preface.</p> + +<p>The impression returned upon my encounter with her in the +street; a guarded frankness with which she gave me her hand, +showed, I thought, her good education and her good sense; and as +I led her on, I felt a pleasurable ductility about her, which +spread a calmness over all my spirits—</p> + +<p>—Good God! how a man might lead such a creature as this +round the world with him!—</p> + +<p>I had not yet seen her face—’twas not material: +for the drawing was instantly set about, and long before we had +got to the door of the Remise, <i>Fancy</i> had finished the +whole head, and pleased herself as much with its fitting her +goddess, as if she had dived into the Tiber for it;—but +thou art a seduced, and a seducing slut; and albeit thou cheatest +us seven times a day with thy pictures and images, yet with so +many charms dost thou do it, and thou deckest out thy pictures in +the shapes of so many angels of light, ’tis a shame to +break with thee.</p> + +<p>When we had got to the door of the Remise, she withdrew her hand +from across her forehead, and let me see the original:—it +was a face of about six-and-twenty,—of a clear transparent +brown, simply set off without rouge or powder;—it was not +critically handsome, but there was that in it, which, in the +frame of mind I was in, attached me much more to it,—it was +interesting: I fancied it wore the characters of a widow’d +look, and in that state of its declension, which had passed the +two first paroxysms of sorrow, and was quietly beginning to +reconcile itself to its loss;—but a thousand other +distresses might have traced the same lines; I wish’d to +know what they had been—and was ready to inquire, (had the +same <i>bon ton</i> of conversation permitted, as in the days of +Esdras)—“<i>What aileth thee</i>? <i>and why art thou +disquieted</i>? <i>and why is thy understanding +troubled</i>?”—In a word, I felt benevolence for her; +and resolv’d some way or other to throw in my mite of +courtesy,—if not of service.</p> + +<p>Such were my temptations;—and in this disposition to +give way to them, was I left alone with the lady with her hand in +mine, and with our faces both turned closer to the door of the +Remise than what was absolutely necessary.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> certainly, fair lady, said I, +raising her hand up little lightly as I began, must be one of +Fortune’s whimsical doings; to take two utter strangers by +their hands,—of different sexes, and perhaps from different +corners of the globe, and in one moment place them together in +such a cordial situation as Friendship herself could scarce have +achieved for them, had she projected it for a month.</p> + +<p>—And your reflection upon it shows how much, Monsieur, +she has embarrassed you by the adventure—</p> + +<p>When the situation is what we would wish, nothing is so +ill-timed as to hint at the circumstances which make it so: you +thank Fortune, continued she—you had reason—the heart +knew it, and was satisfied; and who but an English philosopher +would have sent notice of it to the brain to reverse the +judgment?</p> + +<p>In saying this, she disengaged her hand with a look which I thought +a sufficient commentary upon the text.</p> + +<p>It is a miserable picture which I am going to give of the +weakness of my heart, by owning, that it suffered a pain, which +worthier occasions could not have inflicted.—I was +mortified with the loss of her hand, and the manner in which I +had lost it carried neither oil nor wine to the wound: I never +felt the pain of a sheepish inferiority so miserably in my +life.</p> + +<p>The triumphs of a true feminine heart are short upon these +discomfitures. In a very few seconds she laid her hand upon +the cuff of my coat, in order to finish her reply; so, some way +or other, God knows how, I regained my situation.</p> + +<p>—She had nothing to add.</p> + +<p>I forthwith began to model a different conversation for the +lady, thinking from the spirit as well as moral of this, that I +had been mistaken in her character; but upon turning her face +towards me, the spirit which had animated the reply was +fled,—the muscles relaxed, and I beheld the same +unprotected look of distress which first won me to her +interest:—melancholy! to see such sprightliness the prey of +sorrow,—I pitied her from my soul; and though it may seem +ridiculous enough to a torpid heart,—I could have taken her +into my arms, and cherished her, though it was in the open +street, without blushing.</p> + +<p>The pulsations of the arteries along my fingers pressing +across hers, told her what was passing within me: she looked +down—a silence of some moments followed.</p> + +<p>I fear in this interval, I must have made some slight efforts +towards a closer compression of her hand, from a subtle sensation +I felt in the palm of my own,—not as if she was going to +withdraw hers—but as if she thought about it;—and I +had infallibly lost it a second time, had not instinct more than +reason directed me to the last resource in these +dangers,—to hold it loosely, and in a manner as if I was +every moment going to release it, of myself; so she let it +continue, till Monsieur Dessein returned with the key; and in the +mean time I set myself to consider how I should undo the ill +impressions which the poor monk’s story, in case he had +told it her, must have planted in her breast against me.</p> + +<h2>THE SNUFF BOX.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> good old monk was within six +paces of us, as the idea of him crossed my mind; and was +advancing towards us a little out of the line, as if uncertain +whether he should break in upon us or no.—He stopp’d, +however, as soon as he came up to us, with a world of frankness: +and having a horn snuff box in his hand, he presented it open to +me.—You shall taste mine—said I, pulling out my box +(which was a small tortoise one) and putting it into his +hand.—’Tis most excellent, said the monk. Then +do me the favour, I replied, to accept of the box and all, and +when you take a pinch out of it, sometimes recollect it was the +peace offering of a man who once used you unkindly, but not from +his heart.</p> + +<p>The poor monk blush’d as red as scarlet. <i>Mon +Dieu</i>! said he, pressing his hands together—you never +used me unkindly.—I should think, said the lady, he is not +likely. I blush’d in my turn; but from what +movements, I leave to the few who feel, to analyze.—Excuse +me, Madame, replied I,—I treated him most unkindly; and +from no provocations.—’Tis impossible, said the +lady.—My God! cried the monk, with a warmth of asseveration +which seem’d not to belong to him—the fault was in +me, and in the indiscretion of my zeal.—The lady opposed +it, and I joined with her in maintaining it was impossible, that +a spirit so regulated as his, could give offence to any.</p> + +<p>I knew not that contention could be rendered so sweet and +pleasurable a thing to the nerves as I then felt it.—We +remained silent, without any sensation of that foolish pain which +takes place, when, in such a circle, you look for ten minutes in +one another’s faces without saying a word. Whilst +this lasted, the monk rubbed his horn box upon the sleeve of his +tunic; and as soon as it had acquired a little air of brightness +by the friction—he made me a low bow, and said, ’twas +too late to say whether it was the weakness or goodness of our +tempers which had involved us in this contest—but be it as +it would,—he begg’d we might exchange boxes.—In saying +this, he presented his to me with one hand, as he took mine from +me in the other, and having kissed it,—with a stream of +good nature in his eyes, he put it into his bosom,—and took +his leave.</p> + +<p>I guard this box, as I would the instrumental parts of my +religion, to help my mind on to something better: in truth, I +seldom go abroad without it; and oft and many a time have I +called up by it the courteous spirit of its owner to regulate my +own, in the justlings of the world: they had found full +employment for his, as I learnt from his story, till about the +forty-fifth year of his age, when upon some military services ill +requited, and meeting at the same time with a disappointment in +the tenderest of passions, he abandoned the sword and the sex +together, and took sanctuary not so much in his convent as in +himself.</p> + +<p>I feel a damp upon my spirits, as I am going to add, that in +my last return through Calais, upon enquiring after Father +Lorenzo, I heard he had been dead near three months, and was +buried, not in his convent, but, according to his desire, in a +little cemetery belonging to it, about two leagues off: I had a +strong desire to see where they had laid him,—when, upon +pulling out his little horn box, as I sat by his grave, and +plucking up a nettle or two at the head of it, which had no +business to grow there, they all struck together so forcibly upon +my affections, that I burst into a flood of tears:—but I am +as weak as a woman; and I beg the world not to smile, but to pity +me.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> never quitted the +lady’s hand all this time, and had held it so long, that it +would have been indecent to have let it go, without first +pressing it to my lips: the blood and spirits, which had suffered +a revulsion from her, crowded back to her as I did it.</p> + +<p>Now the two travellers, who had spoke to me in the coach-yard, +happening at that crisis to be passing by, and observing our +communications, naturally took it into their heads that we must +be <i>man and wife</i> at least; so, stopping as soon as they +came up to the door of the Remise, the one of them who was the +Inquisitive Traveller, ask’d us, if we set out for Paris +the next morning?—I could only answer for myself, I said; +and the lady added, she was for Amiens.—We dined there +yesterday, said the Simple Traveller.—You go directly +through the town, added the other, in your road to Paris. I +was going to return a thousand thanks for the intelligence, +<i>that Amiens was in the road to Paris</i>, but, upon pulling +out my poor monk’s little horn box to take a pinch of +snuff, I made them a quiet bow, and wishing them a good passage +to Dover.—They left us alone.—</p> + +<p>—Now where would be the harm, said I to myself, if I +were to beg of this distressed lady to accept of half of my +chaise?—and what mighty mischief could ensue?</p> + +<p>Every dirty passion, and bad propensity in my nature took the +alarm, as I stated the proposition.—It will oblige you to +have a third horse, said Avarice, which will put twenty livres +out of your pocket;—You know not what she is, said +Caution;—or what scrapes the affair may draw you into, +whisper’d Cowardice.—</p> + +<p>Depend upon it, Yorick! said Discretion, ’twill be said +you went off with a mistress, and came by assignation to Calais +for that purpose;—</p> + +<p>—You can never after, cried Hypocrisy aloud, show your +face in the world;—or rise, quoth Meanness, in the +church;—or be any thing in it, said Pride, but a lousy +prebendary.</p> + +<p>But ’tis a civil thing, said I;—and as I generally +act from the first impulse, and therefore seldom listen to these +cabals, which serve no purpose, that I know of, but to encompass +the heart with adamant—I turned instantly about to the +lady.—</p> + +<p>—But she had glided off unperceived, as the cause was +pleading, and had made ten or a dozen paces down the street, by +the time I had made the determination; so I set off after her +with a long stride, to make her the proposal, with the best +address I was master of: but observing she walk’d with her cheek half resting upon the palm +of her hand,—with the slow short-measur’d step of +thoughtfulness,—and with her eyes, as she went step by +step, fixed upon the ground, it struck me she was trying the same +cause herself.—God help her! said I, she has some +mother-in-law, or tartufish aunt, or nonsensical old woman, to +consult upon the occasion, as well as myself: so not caring to +interrupt the process, and deeming it more gallant to take her at +discretion than by surprise, I faced about and took a short turn +or two before the door of the Remise, whilst she walk’d +musing on one side.</p> + +<h2>IN THE STREET.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span>, on the first sight of the +lady, settled the affair in my fancy “that she was of the +better order of beings;”—and then laid it down as a +second axiom, as indisputable as the first, that she was a widow, +and wore a character of distress,—I went no further; I got +ground enough for the situation which pleased me;—and had +she remained close beside my elbow till midnight, I should have +held true to my system, and considered her only under that +general idea.</p> + +<p>She had scarce got twenty paces distant from me, ere something +within me called out for a more particular enquiry;—it +brought on the idea of a further separation:—I might +possibly never see her more:—The heart is for saving what +it can; and I wanted the traces through which my wishes might +find their way to her, in case I should never rejoin her myself; +in a word, I wished to know her name,—her +family’s—her condition; and as I knew the place to +which she was going, I wanted to know from whence she came: but +there was no coming at all this intelligence; a hundred little +delicacies stood in the way. I form’d a score +different plans.—There was no such thing as a man’s +asking her directly;—the thing was impossible.</p> + +<p>A little French <i>débonnaire</i> captain, who came +dancing down the street, showed me it was the easiest thing in +the world: for, popping in betwixt us, just as the lady was returning +back to the door of the Remise, he introduced himself to my +acquaintance, and before he had well got announced, begg’d +I would do him the honour to present him to the lady.—I had +not been presented myself;—so turning about to her, he did +it just as well, by asking her if she had come from Paris? +No: she was going that route, she said.—<i>Vous +n’êtes pas de Londres</i>?—She was not, she +replied.—Then Madame must have come through +Flanders.—<i>Apparemment vous êtes Flammande</i>? +said the French captain.—The lady answered, she +was.—<i>Peut être de Lisle</i>? added he.—She +said, she was not of Lisle.—Nor Arras?—nor +Cambray?—nor Ghent?—nor Brussels?—She answered, +she was of Brussels.</p> + +<p>He had had the honour, he said, to be at the bombardment of it +last war;—that it was finely situated, <i>pour +cela</i>,—and full of noblesse when the Imperialists were +driven out by the French (the lady made a slight +courtesy)—so giving her an account of the affair, and of +the share he had had in it,—he begg’d the honour to +know her name,—so made his bow.</p> + +<p>—<i>Et Madame a son Mari</i>?—said he, looking +back when he had made two steps,—and, without staying for +an answer—danced down the street.</p> + +<p>Had I served seven years apprenticeship to good breeding, I +could not have done as much.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p>As the little French captain left us, Mons. Dessein came up +with the key of the Remise in his hand, and forthwith let us into +his magazine of chaises.</p> + +<p>The first object which caught my eye, as Mons. Dessein +open’d the door of the Remise, was another old +tatter’d <i>désobligeant</i>; and notwithstanding it +was the exact picture of that which had hit my fancy so much in +the coach-yard but an hour before,—the very sight of it +stirr’d up a disagreeable sensation within me now; and I +thought ’twas a churlish beast into whose heart the idea +could first enter, to construct such a machine; nor had I much more +charity for the man who could think of using it.</p> + +<p>I observed the lady was as little taken with it as myself: so +Mons. Dessein led us on to a couple of chaises which stood +abreast, telling us, as he recommended them, that they had been +purchased by my lord A. and B. to go the grand tour, but had gone +no further than Paris, so were in all respects as good as +new.—They were too good;—so I pass’d on to a +third, which stood behind, and forthwith begun to chaffer for the +price.—But ’twill scarce hold two, said I, opening +the door and getting in.—Have the goodness, Madame, said +Mons. Dessein, offering his arm, to step in.—The lady +hesitated half a second, and stepped in; and the waiter that +moment beckoning to speak to Mon. Dessein, he shut the door of +the chaise upon us, and left us.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap"><i>C’est</i></span><i> bien +comique</i>, ’tis very droll, said the lady, smiling, from +the reflection that this was the second time we had been left +together by a parcel of nonsensical +contingencies,—<i>c’est bien comique</i>, said +she.—</p> + +<p>—There wants nothing, said I, to make it so but the +comic use which the gallantry of a Frenchman would put it +to,—to make love the first moment, and an offer of his +person the second.</p> + +<p>’Tis their <i>fort</i>, replied the lady.</p> + +<p>It is supposed so at least;—and how it has come to pass, +continued I, I know not; but they have certainly got the credit +of understanding more of love, and making it better than any +other nation upon earth; but, for my own part, I think them +arrant bunglers, and in truth the worst set of marksmen that ever +tried Cupid’s patience.</p> + +<p>—To think of making love by <i>sentiments</i>!</p> + +<p>I should as soon think of making a genteel suit of clothes out +of remnants:—and to do it—pop—at first sight, +by declaration—is submitting the offer, and themselves with +it, to be sifted with all their <i>pours</i> and <i>contres</i>, +by an unheated mind.</p> + +<p>The lady attended as if she expected I should go on.</p> + +<p>Consider then, Madame, continued I, laying my hand upon +hers:—</p> + +<p>That grave people hate love for the name’s +sake;—</p> + +<p>That selfish people hate it for their own;—</p> + +<p>Hypocrites for heaven’s;—</p> + +<p>And that all of us, both old and young, being ten times worse +frightened than hurt by the very <i>report</i>,—what a want +of knowledge in this branch of commerce a man betrays, whoever +lets the word come out of his lips, till an hour or two, at +least, after the time that his silence upon it becomes +tormenting. A course of small, quiet attentions, not so +pointed as to alarm,—nor so vague as to be +misunderstood—with now and then a look of kindness, and +little or nothing said upon it,—leaves nature for your +mistress, and she fashions it to her mind.—</p> + +<p>Then I solemnly declare, said the lady, blushing, you have +been making love to me all this while.</p> + +<h2>THE REMISE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Monsieur Dessein</span> came back to let +us out of the chaise, and acquaint the lady, the count de +L—, her brother, was just arrived at the hotel. +Though I had infinite good will for the lady, I cannot say that I +rejoiced in my heart at the event—and could not help +telling her so;—for it is fatal to a proposal, Madame, said +I, that I was going to make to you—</p> + +<p>—You need not tell me what the proposal was, said she, +laying her hand upon both mine, as she interrupted me.—A +man my good Sir, has seldom an offer of kindness to make to a +woman, but she has a presentiment of it some moments +before.—</p> + +<p>Nature arms her with it, said I, for immediate +preservation.—But I think, said she, looking in my face, I +had no evil to apprehend,—and, to deal frankly with you, +had determined to accept it.—If I had—(she stopped a +moment)—I believe your good will would have drawn a story from +me, which would have made pity the only dangerous thing in the +journey.</p> + +<p>In saying this, she suffered me to kiss her hand twice, and +with a look of sensibility mixed with concern, she got out of the +chaise,—and bid adieu.</p> + +<h2>IN THE STREET.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">CALAIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">never</span> finished a twelve guinea +bargain so expeditiously in my life: my time seemed heavy, upon +the loss of the lady, and knowing every moment of it would be as +two, till I put myself into motion,—I ordered post horses +directly, and walked towards the hotel.</p> + +<p>Lord! said I, hearing the town clock strike four, and +recollecting that I had been little more than a single hour in +Calais,—</p> + +<p>—What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within +this little span of life by him who interests his heart in every +thing, and who, having eyes to see what time and chance are +perpetually holding out to him as he journeyeth on his way, +misses nothing he can <i>fairly</i> lay his hands on!</p> + +<p>—If this won’t turn out something,—another +will;—no matter,—’tis an assay upon human +nature—I get my labour for my pains,—’tis +enough;—the pleasure of the experiment has kept my senses +and the best part of my blood awake, and laid the gross to +sleep.</p> + +<p>I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and cry, +’Tis all barren;—and so it is: and so is all the +world to him who will not cultivate the fruits it offers. I +declare, said I, clapping my hands cheerily together, that were I +in a desert, I would find out wherewith in it to call forth my +affections:—if I could not do better, I would fasten them +upon some sweet myrtle, or seek some melancholy cypress to +connect myself to;—I would court their shade, and greet +them kindly for their protection.—I would cut my name upon +them, and swear they were the loveliest trees throughout the +desert: if their leaves wither’d, I would teach myself +to mourn; and, when they rejoiced, I would rejoice along with +them.</p> + +<p>The learned Smelfungus travelled from Boulogne to +Paris,—from Paris to Rome,—and so on;—but he +set out with the spleen and jaundice, and every object he +pass’d by was discoloured or distorted.—He wrote an +account of them, but ’twas nothing but the account of his +miserable feelings.</p> + +<p>I met Smelfungus in the grand portico of the +Pantheon:—he was just coming out of it.—’<i>Tis +nothing but a huge cockpit</i>, <a name="citation580"></a><a +href="#footnote580" class="citation">[580]</a> said he:—I +wish you had said nothing worse of the Venus of Medicis, replied +I;—for in passing through Florence, I had heard he had +fallen foul upon the goddess, and used her worse than a common +strumpet, without the least provocation in nature.</p> + +<p>I popp’d upon Smelfungus again at Turin, in his return +home; and a sad tale of sorrowful adventures had he to tell, +“wherein he spoke of moving accidents by flood and field, +and of the cannibals that each other eat: the +Anthropophagi:”—he had been flayed alive, and +bedevil’d, and used worse than St. Bartholomew, at every +stage he had come at.—</p> + +<p>—I’ll tell it, cried Smelfungus, to the +world. You had better tell it, said I, to your +physician.</p> + +<p>Mundungus, with an immense fortune, made the whole tour; going +on from Rome to Naples,—from Naples to Venice,—from +Venice to Vienna,—to Dresden, to Berlin, without one +generous connection or pleasurable anecdote to tell of; but he +had travell’d straight on, looking neither to his right +hand nor his left, lest Love or Pity should seduce him out of his +road.</p> + +<p>Peace be to them! if it is to be found; but heaven itself, +were it possible to get there with such tempers, would want +objects to give it; every gentle spirit would come flying upon +the wings of Love to hail their arrival.—Nothing would the +souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus hear of, but fresh anthems of +joy, fresh raptures of love, and fresh congratulations of their +common felicity.—I heartily pity them; they have brought up +no faculties for this work; and, were the happiest mansion in heaven +to be allotted to Smelfungus and Mundungus, they would be so far +from being happy, that the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus +would do penance there to all eternity!</p> + +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> once lost my portmanteau from +behind my chaise, and twice got out in the rain, and one of the +times up to the knees in dirt, to help the postilion to tie it +on, without being able to find out what was wanting.—Nor +was it till I got to Montreuil, upon the landlord’s asking +me if I wanted not a servant, that it occurred to me, that that +was the very thing.</p> + +<p>A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I.—Because, +Monsieur, said the landlord, there is a clever young fellow, who +would be very proud of the honour to serve an +Englishman.—But why an English one, more than any +other?—They are so generous, said the +landlord.—I’ll be shot if this is not a livre out of +my pocket, quoth I to myself, this very night.—But they +have wherewithal to be so, Monsieur, added he.—Set down one +livre more for that, quoth I.—It was but last night, said +the landlord, <i>qu’un milord Anglois présentoit un +écu à la fille de chambre</i>.—<i>Tant pis +pour Mademoiselle Janatone</i>, said I.</p> + +<p>Now Janatone, being the landlord’s daughter, and the +landlord supposing I was young in French, took the liberty to +inform me, I should not have said <i>tant pis</i>—but, +<i>tant mieux</i>. <i>Tant mieux</i>, <i>toujours</i>, +<i>Monsieur</i>, said he, when there is any thing to be +got—<i>tant pis</i>, when there is nothing. It comes +to the same thing, said I. <i>Pardonnez-moi</i>, said the +landlord.</p> + +<p>I cannot take a fitter opportunity to observe, once for all, +that <i>tant pis</i> and <i>tant mieux</i>, being two of the +great hinges in French conversation, a stranger would do well to +set himself right in the use of them, before he gets to +Paris.</p> + +<p>A prompt French marquis at our ambassador’s table +demanded of Mr. H—, if he was H— the poet? No, +said Mr. H—, mildly.—<i>Tant pis</i>, replied the +marquis.</p> + +<p>It is H— the historian, said another,—<i>Tant mieux</i>, +said the marquis. And Mr. H—, who is a man of an +excellent heart, return’d thanks for both.</p> + +<p>When the landlord had set me right in this matter, he called +in La Fleur, which was the name of the young man he had spoke +of,—saying only first, That as for his talents he would +presume to say nothing,—Monsieur was the best judge what +would suit him; but for the fidelity of La Fleur he would stand +responsible in all he was worth.</p> + +<p>The landlord deliver’d this in a manner which instantly +set my mind to the business I was upon;—and La Fleur, who +stood waiting without, in that breathless expectation which every +son of nature of us have felt in our turns, came in.</p> + +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">am</span> apt to be taken with all kinds +of people at first sight; but never more so than when a poor +devil comes to offer his service to so poor a devil as myself; +and as I know this weakness, I always suffer my judgment to draw +back something on that very account,—and this more or less, +according to the mood I am in, and the case;—and I may add, +the gender too, of the person I am to govern.</p> + +<p>When La Fleur entered the room, after every discount I could +make for my soul, the genuine look and air of the fellow +determined the matter at once in his favour; so I hired him +first,—and then began to enquire what he could do: But I +shall find out his talents, quoth I, as I want +them,—besides, a Frenchman can do every thing.</p> + +<p>Now poor La Fleur could do nothing in the world but beat a +drum, and play a march or two upon the fife. I was +determined to make his talents do; and can’t say my +weakness was ever so insulted by my wisdom as in the attempt.</p> + +<p>La Fleur had set out early in life, as gallantly as most +Frenchmen do, with <i>serving</i> for a few years; at the end of +which, having satisfied the sentiment, and found, moreover, That +the honour of beating a drum was likely to be its own reward, as +it open’d no further track of glory to him,—he retired +<i>à ses terres</i>, and lived <i>comme il plaisoit à Dieu</i>;—that is to +say, upon nothing.</p> + +<p>—And so, quoth Wisdom, you have hired a drummer to +attend you in this tour of yours through France and +Italy!—Psha! said I, and do not one half of our gentry go +with a humdrum <i>compagnon du voyage</i> the same round, and +have the piper and the devil and all to pay besides? When +man can extricate himself with an <i>équivoque</i> in such +an unequal match,—he is not ill off.—But you can do +something else, La Fleur? said I.—<i>O qu’oui</i>! he +could make spatterdashes, and play a little upon the +fiddle.—Bravo! said Wisdom.—Why, I play a bass +myself, said I;—we shall do very well. You can shave, +and dress a wig a little, La Fleur?—He had all the +dispositions in the world.—It is enough for heaven! said I, +interrupting him,—and ought to be enough for me.—So, +supper coming in, and having a frisky English spaniel on one side +of my chair, and a French valet, with as much hilarity in his +countenance as ever Nature painted in one, on the other,—I +was satisfied to my heart’s content with my empire; and if +monarchs knew what they would be at, they might be as satisfied +as I was.</p> + +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> La Fleur went the whole tour of +France and Italy with me, and will be often upon the stage, I +must interest the reader a little further in his behalf, by +saying, that I had never less reason to repent of the impulses +which generally do determine me, than in regard to this +fellow;—he was a faithful, affectionate, simple soul as +ever trudged after the heels of a philosopher; and, +notwithstanding his talents of drum beating and +spatterdash-making, which, though very good in themselves, +happened to be of no great service to me, yet was I hourly +recompensed by the festivity of his temper;—it supplied all +defects:—I had a constant resource in his looks in all +difficulties and distresses of my own—I was going to have +added of his too; but La Fleur was out of the reach of every +thing; for, whether ’twas hunger or thirst, or cold or +nakedness, or watchings, or whatever stripes of ill luck La Fleur +met with in our journeyings, there was no index in his +physiognomy to point them out by,—he was eternally the +same; so that if I am a piece of a philosopher, which Satan now +and then puts it into my head I am,—it always mortifies the +pride of the conceit, by reflecting how much I owe to the +complexional philosophy of this poor fellow, for shaming me into +one of a better kind. With all this, La Fleur had a small +cast of the coxcomb,—but he seemed at first sight to be +more a coxcomb of nature than of art; and, before I had been +three days in Paris with him,—he seemed to be no coxcomb at +all.</p> + +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> next morning, La Fleur entering +upon his employment, I delivered to him the key of my +portmanteau, with an inventory of my half a dozen shirts and silk +pair of breeches, and bid him fasten all upon the +chaise,—get the horses put to,—and desire the +landlord to come in with his bill.</p> + +<p><i>C’est un garcon de bonne fortune</i>, said the +landlord, pointing through the window to half a dozen wenches who +had got round about La Fleur, and were most kindly taking their +leave of him, as the postilion was leading out the horses. +La Fleur kissed all their hands round and round again, and thrice +he wiped his eyes, and thrice he promised he would bring them all +pardons from Rome.</p> + +<p>—The young fellow, said the landlord, is beloved by all +the town, and there is scarce a corner in Montreuil where the +want of him will not be felt: he has but one misfortune in the +world, continued he, “he is always in love.”—I +am heartily glad of it, said I,—’twill save me the +trouble every night of putting my breeches under my head. +In saying this, I was making not so much La Fleur’s eloge +as my own, having been in love with one princess or another +almost all my life, and I hope I shall go on so till I die, being +firmly persuaded, that if ever I do a mean action, it must be in +some interval betwixt one passion and another: whilst this +interregnum lasts, I always perceive my heart locked up,—I +can scarce find in it to give Misery a sixpence; and therefore I +always get out of it as fast as I can—and the moment I am +rekindled, I am all generosity and good-will again; and would do +anything in the world, either for or with any one, if they will +but satisfy me there is no sin in it.</p> + +<p>—But in saying this,—sure I am commanding the +passion,—not myself.</p> + +<h2>A FRAGMENT.</h2> + +<p>—<span class="smcap">The</span> town of Abdera, +notwithstanding Democritus lived there, trying all the powers of +irony and laughter to reclaim it, was the vilest and most +profligate town in all Thrace. What for poisons, +conspiracies, and assassinations,—libels, pasquinades, and +tumults, there was no going there by day—’twas worse +by night.</p> + +<p>Now, when things were at the worst, it came to pass that the +Andromeda of Euripides being represented at Abdera, the whole +orchestra was delighted with it: but of all the passages which +delighted them, nothing operated more upon their imaginations +than the tender strokes of nature which the poet had wrought up +in that pathetic speech of Perseus, <i>O Cupid</i>, <i>prince of +gods and men</i>! &c. Every man almost spoke pure +iambics the next day, and talked of nothing but Perseus his +pathetic address,—“<i>O Cupid! prince of gods and +men</i>!”—in every street of Abdera, in every house, +“O Cupid! Cupid!”—in every mouth, like +the natural notes of some sweet melody which drop from it, +whether it will or no,—nothing but “Cupid! Cupid! +prince of gods and men!”—The fire caught—and +the whole city, like the heart of one man, open’d itself to +Love.</p> + +<p>No pharmacopolist could sell one grain of hellebore,—not +a single armourer had a heart to forge one instrument of +death;—Friendship and Virtue met together, and kiss’d +each other in the street; the golden age returned, and hung over +the town of Abdera—every Abderite took his eaten pipe, and +every Abderitish woman left her purple web, and chastely sat her +down and listened to the song.</p> + +<p>’Twas only in the power, says the Fragment, of the God +whose empire extendeth from heaven to earth, and even to the +depths of the sea, to have done this.</p> + +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> all is ready, and every +article is disputed and paid for in the inn, unless you are a +little sour’d by the adventure, there is always a matter to +compound at the door, before you can get into your chaise; and +that is with the sons and daughters of poverty, who surround +you. Let no man say, “Let them go to the +devil!”—’tis a cruel journey to send a few +miserables, and they have had sufferings enow without it: I +always think it better to take a few sous out in my hand; and I +would counsel every gentle traveller to do so likewise: he need +not be so exact in setting down his motives for giving +them;—They will be registered elsewhere.</p> + +<p>For my own part, there is no man gives so little as I do; for +few, that I know, have so little to give; but as this was the +first public act of my charity in France, I took the more notice +of it.</p> + +<p>A well-a-way! said I,—I have but eight sous in the +world, showing them in my hand, and there are eight poor men and +eight poor women for ’em.</p> + +<p>A poor tatter’d soul, without a shirt on, instantly +withdrew his claim, by retiring two steps out of the circle, and +making a disqualifying bow on his part. Had the whole +<i>parterre</i> cried out, <i>Place aux dames</i>, with one +voice, it would not have conveyed the sentiment of a deference +for the sex with half the effect.</p> + +<p>Just Heaven! for what wise reasons hast thou ordered it, that +beggary and urbanity, which are at such variance in other +countries, should find a way to be at unity in this?</p> + +<p>—I insisted upon presenting him with a single sous, +merely for his <i>politesse</i>.</p> + +<p>A poor little dwarfish brisk fellow, who stood over against me +in the circle, putting something first under his arm, which had +once been a hat, took his snuff-box out of his pocket, and +generously offer’d a pinch on both sides of him: it was a +gift of consequence, and modestly declined.—The poor little +fellow pressed it upon them with a nod of +welcomeness.—<i>Prenez en—prenez</i>, said he, +looking another way; so they each took a pinch.—Pity thy +box should ever want one! said I to myself; so I put a couple of +sous into it—taking a small pinch out of his box, to +enhance their value, as I did it. He felt the weight of the +second obligation more than of the first,—’twas doing +him an honour,—the other was only doing him a +charity;—and he made me a bow down to the ground for +it.</p> + +<p>—Here! said I to an old soldier with one hand, who had +been campaigned and worn out to death in the +service—here’s a couple of sous for +thee.—<i>Vive le Roi</i>! said the old soldier.</p> + +<p>I had then but three sous left: so I gave one, simply, <i>pour +l’amour de Dieu</i>, which was the footing on which it was +begg’d.—The poor woman had a dislocated hip; so it +could not be well upon any other motive.</p> + +<p><i>Mon cher et très-charitable +Monsieur</i>.—There’s no opposing this, said I.</p> + +<p><i>Milord Anglois</i>—the very sound was worth the +money;—so I gave <i>my last sous for it</i>. But in +the eagerness of giving, I had overlooked a <i>pauvre +honteux</i>, who had had no one to ask a sous for him, and who, I +believe, would have perished, ere he could have ask’d one +for himself: he stood by the chaise a little without the circle, +and wiped a tear from a face which I thought had seen better +days.—Good God! said I—and I have not one single sous +left to give him.—But you have a thousand! cried all the +powers of nature, stirring within me;—so I gave +him—no matter what—I am ashamed to say <i>how +much</i> now,—and was ashamed to think how little, then: +so, if the reader can form any conjecture of my disposition, as +these two fixed points are given him, he may judge within a livre +or two what was the precise sum.</p> + +<p>I could afford nothing for the rest, but <i>Dieu vous +bénisse</i>!</p> + +<p>—<i>Et le bon Dieu vous bénisse encore</i>, said +the old soldier, the dwarf, &c. The <i>pauvre +honteux</i> could say nothing;—he pull’d out a little +handkerchief, and wiped his face as he turned away—and I +thought he thanked me more than them all.</p> + +<h2>THE BIDET.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> settled all these little +matters, I got into my post-chaise with more ease than ever I got +into a post-chaise in my life; and La Fleur having got one large +jack-boot on the far side of a little <i>bidet</i>, <a +name="citation588"></a><a href="#footnote588" +class="citation">[588]</a> and another on this (for I count +nothing of his legs)—he canter’d away before me as +happy and as perpendicular as a prince.—But what is +happiness! what is grandeur in this painted scene of life! +A dead ass, before we had got a league, put a sudden stop to La +Fleur’s career;—his bidet would not pass by +it,—a contention arose betwixt them, and the poor fellow +was kick’d out of his jack-boots the very first kick.</p> + +<p>La Fleur bore his fall like a French Christian, saying neither +more nor less upon it, than <i>Diable</i>! So presently got +up, and came to the charge again astride his bidet, beating him +up to it as he would have beat his drum.</p> + +<p>The bidet flew from one side of the road to the other, then +back again,—then this way, then that way, and in short, +every way but by the dead ass:—La Fleur insisted upon the +thing—and the bidet threw him.</p> + +<p>What’s the matter, La Fleur, said I, with this bidet of +thine? Monsieur, said he, <i>c’est un cheval le plus +opiniâtre du monde</i>.—Nay, if he is a conceited +beast, he must go his own way, replied I. So La Fleur got +off him, and giving him a good sound lash, the bidet took me at +my word, and away he scampered back to +Montreuil.—<i>Peste</i>! said La Fleur.</p> + +<p>It is not <i>mal-à-propos</i> to take notice here, that +though La Fleur availed himself but of two different terms of +exclamation in this encounter,—namely, <i>Diable</i>! and +<i>Peste</i>! that there are, nevertheless, three in the French +language: like the positive, comparative, and superlative, one or +the other of which serves for every unexpected throw of the dice +in life.</p> + +<p><i>Le Diable</i>! which is the first, and positive degree, is +generally used upon ordinary emotions of the mind, where small +things only fall out contrary to your expectations; such +as—the throwing once doublets—La Fleur’s being +kick’d off his horse, and so forth.—Cuckoldom, for +the same reason, is always—<i>Le Diable</i>!</p> + +<p>But, in cases where the cast has something provoking in it, as +in that of the bidet’s running away after, and leaving La +Fleur aground in jack-boots,—’tis the second +degree.</p> + +<p>’Tis then <i>Peste</i>!</p> + +<p>And for the third—</p> + +<p>—But here my heart is wrung with pity and fellow +feeling, when I reflect what miseries must have been their lot, +and how bitterly so refined a people must have smarted, to have +forced them upon the use of it.—</p> + +<p>Grant me, O ye powers which touch the tongue with eloquence in +distress!—what ever is my <i>cast</i>, grant me but decent +words to exclaim in, and I will give my nature way.</p> + +<p>—But as these were not to be had in France, I resolved +to take every evil just as it befell me, without any exclamation +at all.</p> + +<p>La Fleur, who had made no such covenant with himself, followed +the bidet with his eyes till it was got out of sight,—and +then, you may imagine, if you please, with what word he closed +the whole affair.</p> + +<p>As there was no hunting down a frightened horse in jack-boots, +there remained no alternative but taking La Fleur either behind +the chaise, or into it.—</p> + +<p>I preferred the latter, and in half an hour we got to the +post-house at Nampont.</p> + +<h2>NAMPONT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE DEAD ASS.</span></h2> + +<p>—<span class="smcap">And</span> this, said he, putting +the remains of a crust into his wallet—and this should have +been thy portion, said he, hadst thou been alive to have shared +it with me.—I thought, by the accent, it had been an +apostrophe to his child; but ’twas to his ass, and to the +very ass we had seen dead in the road, which had occasioned La +Fleur’s misadventure. The man seemed to lament it +much; and it instantly brought into my mind Sancho’s +lamentation for his; but he did it with more true touches of +nature.</p> + +<p>The mourner was sitting upon a stone bench at the door, with +the ass’s pannel and its bridle on one side, which he took +up from time to time,—then laid them +down,—look’d at them, and shook his head. He +then took his crust of bread out of his wallet again, as if to +eat it; held it some time in his hand,—then laid it upon +the bit of his ass’s bridle,—looked wistfully at the +little arrangement he had made—and then gave a sigh.</p> + +<p>The simplicity of his grief drew numbers about him, and La +Fleur amongst the rest, whilst the horses were getting ready; as +I continued sitting in the post-chaise, I could see and hear over +their heads.</p> + +<p>—He said he had come last from Spain, where he had been +from the furthest borders of Franconia; and had got so far on his +return home, when his ass died. Every one seemed desirous +to know what business could have taken so old and poor a man so +far a journey from his own home.</p> + +<p>It had pleased heaven, he said, to bless him with three sons, +the finest lads in Germany; but having in one week lost two of +the eldest of them by the small-pox, and the youngest falling ill +of the same distemper, he was afraid of being bereft of them all; +and made a vow, if heaven would not take him from him also, he +would go in gratitude to St. Iago in Spain.</p> + +<p>When the mourner got thus far on his story, he stopp’d +to pay Nature her tribute,—and wept bitterly.</p> + +<p>He said, heaven had accepted the conditions; and that he had +set out from his cottage with this poor creature, who had been a +patient partner of his journey;—that it had eaten the same +bread with him all the way, and was unto him as a friend.</p> + +<p>Every body who stood about, heard the poor fellow with +concern.—La Fleur offered him money.—The mourner said +he did not want it;—it was not the value of the +ass—but the loss of him.—The ass, he said, he was +assured, loved him;—and upon this told them a long story of +a mischance upon their passage over the Pyrenean mountains, +which had separated them from each other three days; during which +time the ass had sought him as much as he had sought the ass, and +that they had scarce either eaten or drank till they met.</p> + +<p>Thou hast one comfort, friend, said I, at least, in the loss +of thy poor beast; I’m sure thou hast been a merciful +master to him.—Alas! said the mourner, I thought so when he +was alive;—but now that he is dead, I think +otherwise.—I fear the weight of myself and my afflictions +together have been too much for him,—they have shortened +the poor creature’s days, and I fear I have them to answer +for.—Shame on the world! said I to myself.—Did we but +love each other as this poor soul loved his +ass—’twould be something.—</p> + +<h2>NAMPONT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE POSTILION.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> concern which the poor +fellow’s story threw me into required some attention; the +postilion paid not the least to it, but set off upon the +<i>pavé</i> in a full gallop.</p> + +<p>The thirstiest soul in the most sandy desert of Arabia could +not have wished more for a cup of cold water, than mine did for +grave and quiet movements; and I should have had an high opinion +of the postilion had he but stolen off with me in something like +a pensive pace.—On the contrary, as the mourner finished +his lamentation, the fellow gave an unfeeling lash to each of his +beasts, and set off clattering like a thousand devils.</p> + +<p>I called to him as loud as I could, for heaven’s sake to +go slower:—and the louder I called, the more unmercifully +he galloped.—The deuce take him and his galloping +too—said I,—he’ll go on tearing my nerves to +pieces till he has worked me into a foolish passion, and then +he’ll go slow that I may enjoy the sweets of it.</p> + +<p>The postilion managed the point to a miracle: by the time he +had got to the foot of a steep hill, about half a league from +Nampont,—he had put me out of temper with him,—and +then with myself, for being so.</p> + +<p>My case then required a different treatment; and a good +rattling gallop would have been of real service to me.—</p> + +<p>—Then, prithee, get on—get on, my good lad, said +I.</p> + +<p>The postilion pointed to the hill.—I then tried to +return back to the story of the poor German and his ass—but +I had broke the clue,—and could no more get into it again, +than the postilion could into a trot.</p> + +<p>—The deuce go, said I, with it all! Here am I +sitting as candidly disposed to make the best of the worst, as +ever wight was, and all runs counter.</p> + +<p>There is one sweet lenitive at least for evils, which Nature +holds out to us: so I took it kindly at her hands, and fell +asleep; and the first word which roused me was <i>Amiens</i>.</p> + +<p>—Bless me! said I, rubbing my eyes,—this is the +very town where my poor lady is to come.</p> + +<h2>AMIENS.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> words were scarce out of my +mouth when the Count de L—’s post-chaise, with his +sister in it, drove hastily by: she had just time to make me a +bow of recognition,—and of that particular kind of it, +which told me she had not yet done with me. She was as good +as her look; for, before I had quite finished my supper, her +brother’s servant came into the room with a billet, in +which she said she had taken the liberty to charge me with a +letter, which I was to present myself to Madame R— the +first morning I had nothing to do at Paris. There was only +added, she was sorry, but from what <i>penchant</i> she had not +considered, that she had been prevented telling me her +story,—that she still owed it to me; and if my route should +ever lay through Brussels, and I had not by then forgot the name +of Madame de L—,—that Madame de L— would be +glad to discharge her obligation.</p> + +<p>Then I will meet thee, said I, fair spirit! at +Brussels;—’tis only returning from Italy through +Germany to Holland, by the route of Flanders, +home;—’twill scarce be ten posts out of my way; but, +were it ten thousand! with what a moral delight will it crown my +journey, in sharing in the sickening incidents of a tale +of misery told to me by such a sufferer? To see her weep! +and, though I cannot dry up the fountain of her tears, what an +exquisite sensation is there still left, in wiping them away from +off the cheeks of the first and fairest of women, as I’m +sitting with my handkerchief in my hand in silence the whole +night beside her?</p> + +<p>There was nothing wrong in the sentiment; and yet I instantly +reproached my heart with it in the bitterest and most reprobate +of expressions.</p> + +<p>It had ever, as I told the reader, been one of the singular +blessings of my life, to be almost every hour of it miserably in +love with some one; and my last flame happening to be blown out +by a whiff of jealousy on the sudden turn of a corner, I had +lighted it up afresh at the pure taper of Eliza but about three +months before,—swearing, as I did it, that it should last +me through the whole journey.—Why should I dissemble the +matter? I had sworn to her eternal fidelity;—she had +a right to my whole heart:—to divide my affections was to +lessen them;—to expose them was to risk them: where there +is risk there may be loss:—and what wilt thou have, Yorick, +to answer to a heart so full of trust and confidence—so +good, so gentle, and unreproaching!</p> + +<p>—I will not go to Brussels, replied I, interrupting +myself.—But my imagination went on,—I recalled her +looks at that crisis of our separation, when neither of us had +power to say adieu! I look’d at the picture she had +tied in a black riband about my neck,—and blush’d as +I look’d at it.—I would have given the world to have +kiss’d it,—but was ashamed.—And shall this +tender flower, said I, pressing it between my hands,—shall +it be smitten to its very root,—and smitten, Yorick! by +thee, who hast promised to shelter it in thy breast?</p> + +<p>Eternal Fountain of Happiness! said I, kneeling down upon the +ground,—be thou my witness—and every pure spirit +which tastes it, be my witness also, That I would not travel to +Brussels, unless Eliza went along with me, did the road lead me +towards heaven!</p> + +<p>In transports of this kind, the heart, in spite of the +understanding, will always say too much.</p> + +<h2>THE LETTER.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AMIENS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fortune</span> had not smiled upon La +Fleur; for he had been unsuccessful in his feats of +chivalry,—and not one thing had offered to signalise his +zeal for my service from the time that he had entered into it, +which was almost four-and-twenty hours. The poor soul +burn’d with impatience; and the Count de L—’s +servant coming with the letter, being the first practicable +occasion which offer’d, La Fleur had laid hold of it; and, +in order to do honour to his master, had taken him into a back +parlour in the auberge, and treated him with a cup or two of the +best wine in Picardy; and the Count de L—’s servant, +in return, and not to be behindhand in politeness with La Fleur, +had taken him back with him to the Count’s hotel. La +Fleur’s <i>prevenancy</i> (for there was a passport in his +very looks) soon set every servant in the kitchen at ease with +him; and as a Frenchman, whatever be his talents, has no sort of +prudery in showing them, La Fleur, in less than five minutes, had +pulled out his fife, and leading off the dance himself with the +first note, set the <i>fille de chambre</i>, the <i>maître +d’hôtel</i>, the cook, the scullion, and all the +house-hold, dogs and cats, besides an old monkey, a dancing: I +suppose there never was a merrier kitchen since the flood.</p> + +<p>Madame de L—, in passing from her brother’s +apartments to her own, hearing so much jollity below stairs, rung +up her <i>fille de chambre</i> to ask about it; and, hearing it +was the English gentleman’s servant, who had set the whole +house merry with his pipe, she ordered him up.</p> + +<p>As the poor fellow could not present himself empty, he had +loaded himself in going up stairs with a thousand compliments to +Madame de L—, on the part of his master,—added a long +apocrypha of inquiries after Madame de L—’s +health,—told her, that Monsieur his master was <i>au +désespoire</i> for her re-establishment from the fatigues +of her journey,—and, to close all, that Monsieur had +received the letter which Madame had done him the honour—And +he has done me the honour, said Madame de L—, interrupting +La Fleur, to send a billet in return.</p> + +<p>Madame de L— had said this with such a tone of reliance +upon the fact, that La Fleur had not power to disappoint her +expectations;—he trembled for my honour,—and possibly +might not altogether be unconcerned for his own, as a man capable +of being attached to a master who could be wanting <i>en +égards vis à vis d’une femme</i>! so that +when Madame de L— asked La Fleur if he had brought a +letter,—<i>O qu’oui</i>, said La Fleur: so laying +down his hat upon the ground, and taking hold of the flap of his +right side pocket with his left hand, he began to search for the +letter with his right;—then +contrariwise.—<i>Diable</i>! then sought every +pocket—pocket by pocket, round, not forgetting his +fob:—<i>Peste</i>!—then La Fleur emptied them upon +the floor,—pulled out a dirty cravat,—a +handkerchief,—a comb,—a whip lash,—a +nightcap,—then gave a peep into his hat,—<i>Quelle +étourderie</i>! He had left the letter upon the +table in the auberge;—he would run for it, and be back with +it in three minutes.</p> + +<p>I had just finished my supper when La Fleur came in to give me +an account of his adventure: he told the whole story simply as it +was: and only added that if Monsieur had forgot (<i>par +hazard</i>) to answer Madame’s letter, the arrangement gave +him an opportunity to recover the <i>faux pas</i>;—and if +not, that things were only as they were.</p> + +<p>Now I was not altogether sure of my <i>étiquette</i>, +whether I ought to have wrote or no;—but if I had,—a +devil himself could not have been angry: ’twas but the +officious zeal of a well meaning creature for my honour; and, +however he might have mistook the road,—or embarrassed me +in so doing,—his heart was in no fault,—I was under +no necessity to write;—and, what weighed more than +all,—he did not look as if he had done amiss.</p> + +<p>—’Tis all very well, La Fleur, said +I.—’Twas sufficient. La Fleur flew out of the +room like lightning, and returned with pen, ink, and paper, in +his hand; and, coming up to the table, laid them close before me, +with such a delight in his countenance, that I could not help +taking up the pen.</p> + +<p> +I began and began again; and, though I had nothing to say, and that +nothing might have been expressed in half a dozen lines, I made +half a dozen different beginnings, and could no way please +myself.</p> + +<p>In short, I was in no mood to write.</p> + +<p>La Fleur stepp’d out and brought a little water in a +glass to dilute my ink,—then fetch’d sand and +seal-wax.—It was all one; I wrote, and blotted, and tore +off, and burnt, and wrote again.—<i>Le diable +l’emporte</i>! said I, half to myself,—I cannot write +this self-same letter, throwing the pen down despairingly as I +said it.</p> + +<p>As soon as I had cast down my pen, La Fleur advanced with the +most respectful carriage up to the table, and making a thousand +apologies for the liberty he was going to take, told me he had a +letter in his pocket wrote by a drummer in his regiment to a +corporal’s wife, which he durst say would suit the +occasion.</p> + +<p>I had a mind to let the poor fellow have his +humour.—Then prithee, said I, let me see it.</p> + +<p>La Fleur instantly pulled out a little dirty pocket book +cramm’d full of small letters and billet-doux in a sad +condition, and laying it upon the table, and then untying the +string which held them all together, run them over, one by one, +till he came to the letter in question,—<i>La voila</i>! +said he, clapping his hands: so, unfolding it first, he laid it +open before me, and retired three steps from the table whilst I +read it.</p> + +<h2>THE LETTER.</h2> + +<p>Madame,</p> + +<p>Je suis pénétré de la douleur la plus +vive, et réduit en même temps au désespoir +par ce retour imprévù du Caporal qui rend notre +entrevûe de ce soir la chose du monde la plus +impossible.</p> + +<p>Mais vive la joie! et toute la mienne sera de penser à +vous.</p> + +<p>L’amour n’est <i>rien</i> sans sentiment.</p> + +<p>Et le sentiment est encore <i>moins</i> sans amour.</p> + +<p>On dit qu’on ne doit jamais se +désesperér.</p> + +<p>On dit aussi que Monsieur le Caporal monte la garde Mercredi: +alors ce cera mon tour.</p> + +<p style="text-align: center"><i>Chacun à son tour</i>.</p> + +<p>En attendant—Vive l’amour! et vive la +bagatelle!</p> + +<p style="text-align: right">Je suis, Madame,<br /> +Avec tous les sentimens les plus<br /> +respectueux et les plus tendres,<br /> +tout à vous,<br /> +<span class="smcap">Jaques Roque</span>.</p> + +<p>It was but changing the Corporal into the Count,—and +saying nothing about mounting guard on Wednesday,—and the +letter was neither right nor wrong:—so, to gratify the poor +fellow, who stood trembling for my honour, his own, and the +honour of his letter,—I took the cream gently off it, and +whipping it up in my own way, I seal’d it up and sent him +with it to Madame de L—;—and the next morning we +pursued our journey to Paris.</p> + +<h2>PARIS.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> a man can contest the point by +dint of equipage, and carry all on floundering before him with +half a dozen of lackies and a couple of cooks—’tis +very well in such a place as Paris,—he may drive in at +which end of a street he will.</p> + +<p>A poor prince who is weak in cavalry, and whose whole infantry +does not exceed a single man, had best quit the field, and +signalize himself in the cabinet, if he can get up into +it;—I say <i>up into it</i>—for there is no +descending perpendicular amongst ’em with a “<i>Me +voici</i>! <i>mes enfans</i>”—here I +am—whatever many may think.</p> + +<p>I own my first sensations, as soon as I was left solitary and +alone in my own chamber in the hotel, were far from being so +flattering as I had prefigured them. I walked up gravely to +the window in my dusty black coat, and looking through the glass +saw all the world in yellow, blue, and green, running at the ring +of pleasure.—The old with broken lances, and in helmets +which had lost their vizards;—the young in armour bright +which shone like gold, beplumed with each gay feather of the +east,—all,—all, tilting at it like fascinated knights +in tournaments of yore for fame and love.—</p> + +<p> +Alas, poor Yorick! cried I, what art thou doing here? On the very +first onset of all this glittering clatter thou art reduced to an +atom;—seek,—seek some winding alley, with a +tourniquet at the end of it, where chariot never rolled or +flambeau shot its rays;—there thou mayest solace thy soul +in converse sweet with some kind grisette of a barber’s +wife, and get into such coteries!—</p> + +<p>—May I perish! if I do, said I, pulling out the letter +which I had to present to Madame de R—.—I’ll +wait upon this lady, the very first thing I do. So I called +La Fleur to go seek me a barber directly,—and come back and +brush my coat.</p> + +<h2>THE WIG.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> the barber came, he absolutely +refused to have any thing to do with my wig: ’twas either +above or below his art: I had nothing to do but to take one ready +made of his own recommendation.</p> + +<p>—But I fear, friend! said I, this buckle won’t +stand.—You may emerge it, replied he, into the ocean, and +it will stand.—</p> + +<p>What a great scale is every thing upon in this city thought +I.—The utmost stretch of an English periwig-maker’s +ideas could have gone no further than to have “dipped it +into a pail of water.”—What difference! ’tis +like Time to Eternity!</p> + +<p>I confess I do hate all cold conceptions, as I do the puny +ideas which engender them; and am generally so struck with the +great works of nature, that for my own part, if I could help it, +I never would make a comparison less than a mountain at +least. All that can be said against the French sublime, in +this instance of it, is this:—That the grandeur is +<i>more</i> in the <i>word</i>, and <i>less</i> in the +<i>thing</i>. No doubt, the ocean fills the mind with vast +ideas; but Paris being so far inland, it was not likely I should +run post a hundred miles out of it, to try the +experiment;—the Parisian barber meant nothing.—</p> + +<p>The pail of water standing beside the great deep, makes, certainly, +but a sorry figure in speech;—but, ’twill be +said,—it has one advantage—’tis in the next +room, and the truth of the buckle may be tried in it, without +more ado, in a single moment.</p> + +<p>In honest truth, and upon a more candid revision of the +matter, <i>The French expression professes more than it +performs</i>.</p> + +<p>I think I can see the precise and distinguishing marks of +national characters more in these nonsensical +<i>minutiæ</i> than in the most important matters of state; +where great men of all nations talk and stalk so much alike, that +I would not give ninepence to choose amongst them.</p> + +<p>I was so long in getting from under my barber’s hands, +that it was too late to think of going with my letter to Madame +R— that night: but when a man is once dressed at all points +for going out, his reflections turn to little account; so taking +down the name of the Hôtel de Modene, where I lodged, I +walked forth without any determination where to go;—I shall +consider of that, said I, as I walk along.</p> + +<h2>THE PULSE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hail</span>, ye small sweet courtesies of +life, for smooth do ye make the road of it! like grace and +beauty, which beget inclinations to love at first sight: +’tis ye who open this door and let the stranger in.</p> + +<p>—Pray, Madame, said I, have the goodness to tell me +which way I must turn to go to the Opéra +Comique?—Most willingly, Monsieur, said she, laying aside +her work.—</p> + +<p>I had given a cast with my eye into half a dozen shops, as I +came along, in search of a face not likely to be disordered by +such an interruption: till at last, this, hitting my fancy, I had +walked in.</p> + +<p>She was working a pair of ruffles, as she sat in a low chair, +on the far side of the shop, facing the door.</p> + +<p>—<i>Très volontiers</i>, most willingly, said she, +laying her work down upon a chair next her, and rising up from +the low chair she was sitting in, with so cheerful a movement, +and so cheerful a look, that had I been laying out fifty louis +d’ors with her, I should have said—“This woman +is grateful.”</p> + +<p>You must turn, Monsieur, said she, going with me to the door +of the shop, and pointing the way down the street I was to +take,—you must turn first to your left hand,—<i>mais +prenez garde</i>—there are two turns; and be so good as to +take the second—then go down a little way and you’ll +see a church: and, when you are past it, give yourself the +trouble to turn directly to the right, and that will lead you to +the foot of the Pont Neuf, which you must cross—and there +any one will do himself the pleasure to show you.—</p> + +<p>She repeated her instructions three times over to me, with the +same goodnatur’d patience the third time as the +first;—and if <i>tones and manners</i> have a meaning, +which certainly they have, unless to hearts which shut them +out,—she seemed really interested that I should not lose +myself.</p> + +<p>I will not suppose it was the woman’s beauty, +notwithstanding she was the handsomest grisette, I think, I ever +saw, which had much to do with the sense I had of her courtesy; +only I remember, when I told her how much I was obliged to her, +that I looked very full in her eyes,—and that I repeated my +thanks as often as she had done her instructions.</p> + +<p>I had not got ten paces from the door, before I found I had +forgot every tittle of what she had said;—so looking back, +and seeing her still standing in the door of the shop, as if to +look whether I went right or not,—I returned back to ask +her, whether the first turn was to my right or left,—for +that I had absolutely forgot.—Is it possible! said she, +half laughing. ’Tis very possible, replied I, when a +man is thinking more of a woman than of her good advice.</p> + +<p>As this was the real truth—she took it, as every woman +takes a matter of right, with a slight curtsey.</p> + +<p>—<i>Attendez</i>! said she, laying her hand upon my arm +to detain me, whilst she called a lad out of the back shop to get +ready a parcel of gloves. I am just going to send him, said +she, with a packet into that quarter, and if you will have the +complaisance to step in, it will be ready in a moment, and he +shall attend you to the place.—So I walk’d in with +her to the far side of the shop: and taking up the ruffle in my +hand which she laid upon the chair, as if I had a mind to sit, she sat +down herself in her low chair, and I instantly sat myself down +beside her.</p> + +<p>—He will be ready, Monsieur, said she, in a +moment.—And in that moment, replied I, most willingly would +I say something very civil to you for all these courtesies. +Any one may do a casual act of good nature, but a continuation of +them shows it is a part of the temperature; and certainly, added +I, if it is the same blood which comes from the heart which +descends to the extremes (touching her wrist) I am sure you must +have one of the best pulses of any woman in the world.—Feel +it, said she, holding out her arm. So laying down my hat, I +took hold of her fingers in one hand, and applied the two +forefingers of my other to the artery.—</p> + +<p>—Would to heaven! my dear Eugenius, thou hadst passed +by, and beheld me sitting in my black coat, and in my +lack-a-day-sical manner, counting the throbs of it, one by one, +with as much true devotion as if I had been watching the critical +ebb or flow of her fever.—How wouldst thou have +laugh’d and moralized upon my new profession!—and +thou shouldst have laugh’d and moralized on.—Trust +me, my dear Eugenius, I should have said, “There are worse +occupations in this world <i>than feeling a woman’s +pulse</i>.”—But a grisette’s! thou wouldst have +said,—and in an open shop! Yorick—</p> + +<p>—So much the better: for when my views are direct, +Eugenius, I care not if all the world saw me feel it.</p> + +<h2>THE HUSBAND.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> counted twenty pulsations, +and was going on fast towards the fortieth, when her husband, +coming unexpected from a back parlour into the shop, put me a +little out of my reckoning.—’Twas nobody but her +husband, she said;—so I began a fresh score.—Monsieur +is so good, quoth she, as he pass’d by us, as to give +himself the trouble of feeling my pulse.—The husband took +off his hat, and making me a bow, said, I did him too much +honour—and having said that, he put on his hat +and walk’d out.</p> + +<p>Good God! said I to myself, as he went out,—and can this +man be the husband of this woman!</p> + +<p>Let it not torment the few who know what must have been the +grounds of this exclamation, if I explain it to those who do +not.</p> + +<p>In London a shopkeeper and a shopkeeper’s wife seem to +be one bone and one flesh: in the several endowments of mind and +body, sometimes the one, sometimes the other has it, so as, in +general, to be upon a par, and totally with each other as nearly +as man and wife need to do.</p> + +<p>In Paris, there are scarce two orders of beings more +different: for the legislative and executive powers of the shop +not resting in the husband, he seldom comes there:—in some +dark and dismal room behind, he sits commerce-less, in his thrum +nightcap, the same rough son of Nature that Nature left him.</p> + +<p>The genius of a people, where nothing but the monarchy is +<i>salique</i>, having ceded this department, with sundry others, +totally to the women,—by a continual higgling with +customers of all ranks and sizes from morning to night, like so +many rough pebbles shook long together in a bag, by amicable +collisions they have worn down their asperities and sharp angles, +and not only become round and smooth, but will receive, some of +them, a polish like a brilliant:—Monsieur <i>le Mari</i> is +little better than the stone under your foot.</p> + +<p>—Surely,—surely, man! it is not good for thee to +sit alone:—thou wast made for social intercourse and gentle +greetings; and this improvement of our natures from it I appeal +to as my evidence.</p> + +<p>—And how does it beat, Monsieur? said she.—With +all the benignity, said I, looking quietly in her eyes, that I +expected.—She was going to say something civil in +return—but the lad came into the shop with the +gloves.—<i>Apropos</i>, said I, I want a couple of +pairs myself.</p> + +<h2>THE GLOVES.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> beautiful grisette rose up when +I said this, and going behind the counter, reach’d down a +parcel and untied it: I advanced to the side over against her: +they were all too large. The beautiful grisette measured +them one by one across my hand.—It would not alter their +dimensions.—She begg’d I would try a single pair, +which seemed to be the least.—She held it open;—my +hand slipped into it at once.—It will not do, said I, +shaking my head a little.—No, said she, doing the same +thing.</p> + +<p>There are certain combined looks of simple +subtlety,—where whim, and sense, and seriousness, and +nonsense, are so blended, that all the languages of Babel set +loose together, could not express them;—they are +communicated and caught so instantaneously, that you can scarce +say which party is the infector. I leave it to your men of +words to swell pages about it—it is enough in the present +to say again, the gloves would not do; so, folding our hands +within our arms, we both lolled upon the counter—it was +narrow, and there was just room for the parcel to lay between +us.</p> + +<p>The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then +sideways to the window, then at the gloves,—and then at +me. I was not disposed to break silence:—I followed +her example: so, I looked at the gloves, then to the window, then +at the gloves, and then at her,—and so on alternately.</p> + +<p>I found I lost considerably in every attack:—she had a +quick black eye, and shot through two such long and silken +eyelashes with such penetration, that she look’d into my +very heart and reins.—It may seem strange, but I could +actually feel she did.—</p> + +<p>It is no matter, said I, taking up a couple of the pairs next +me, and putting them into my pocket.</p> + +<p>I was sensible the beautiful grisette had not asked above a +single livre above the price.—I wish’d she had asked +a livre more, and was puzzling my brains how to bring the +matter about.—Do you think, my dear Sir, said she, +mistaking my embarrassment, that I could ask a sous too much of a +stranger—and of a stranger whose politeness, more than his +want of gloves, has done me the honour to lay himself at my +mercy?—<i>M’en croyez capable</i>?—Faith! not +I, said I; and if you were, you are welcome. So counting +the money into her hand, and with a lower bow than one generally +makes to a shopkeeper’s wife, I went out, and her lad with +his parcel followed me.</p> + +<h2>THE TRANSLATION.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> was nobody in the box I was +let into but a kindly old French officer. I love the +character, not only because I honour the man whose manners are +softened by a profession which makes bad men worse; but that I +once knew one,—for he is no more,—and why should I +not rescue one page from violation by writing his name in it, and +telling the world it was Captain Tobias Shandy, the dearest of my +flock and friends, whose philanthropy I never think of at this +long distance from his death—but my eyes gush out with +tears. For his sake I have a predilection for the whole +corps of veterans; and so I strode over the two back rows of +benches and placed myself beside him.</p> + +<p>The old officer was reading attentively a small pamphlet, it +might be the book of the opera, with a large pair of +spectacles. As soon as I sat down, he took his spectacles +off, and putting them into a shagreen case, return’d them +and the book into his pocket together. I half rose up, and +made him a bow.</p> + +<p>Translate this into any civilized language in the +world—the sense is this:</p> + +<p>“Here’s a poor stranger come into the box—he +seems as if he knew nobody; and is never likely, was he to be +seven years in Paris, if every man he comes near keeps his +spectacles upon his nose:—’tis shutting the door of +conversation absolutely in his face—and using him worse +than a German.”</p> + +<p>The French officer might as well have said it all aloud: and if he +had, I should in course have put the bow I made him into French +too, and told him, “I was sensible of his attention, and +return’d him a thousand thanks for it.”</p> + +<p>There is not a secret so aiding to the progress of sociality, +as to get master of this <i>short hand</i>, and to be quick in +rendering the several turns of looks and limbs with all their +inflections and delineations, into plain words. For my own +part, by long habitude, I do it so mechanically, that, when I +walk the streets of London, I go translating all the way; and +have more than once stood behind in the circle, where not three +words have been said, and have brought off twenty different +dialogues with me, which I could have fairly wrote down and sworn +to.</p> + +<p>I was going one evening to Martini’s concert at Milan, +and, was just entering the door of the hall, when the Marquisina +di F— was coming out in a sort of a hurry:—she was +almost upon me before I saw her; so I gave a spring to once side +to let her pass.—She had done the same, and on the same +side too; so we ran our heads together: she instantly got to the +other side to get out: I was just as unfortunate as she had been, +for I had sprung to that side, and opposed her passage +again.—We both flew together to the other side, and then +back,—and so on:—it was ridiculous: we both +blush’d intolerably: so I did at last the thing I should +have done at first;—I stood stock-still, and the Marquisina +had no more difficulty. I had no power to go into the room, +till I had made her so much reparation as to wait and follow her +with my eye to the end of the passage. She look’d +back twice, and walk’d along it rather sideways, as if she +would make room for any one coming up stairs to pass +her.—No, said I—that’s a vile translation: the +Marquisina has a right to the best apology I can make her, and +that opening is left for me to do it in;—so I ran and +begg’d pardon for the embarrassment I had given her, saying +it was my intention to have made her way. She answered, she +was guided by the same intention towards me;—so we +reciprocally thank’d each other. She was at the top +of the stairs; and seeing no <i>cicisbeo</i> near her, I +begg’d to hand her to her coach;—so we went down the +stairs, stopping at every third step to talk of the concert +and the adventure.—Upon my word, Madame, said I, when I had +handed her in, I made six different efforts to let you go +out.—And I made six efforts, replied she, to let you +enter.—I wish to heaven you would make a seventh, said +I.—With all my heart, said she, making room.—Life is +too short to be long about the forms of it,—so I instantly +stepp’d in, and she carried me home with her.—And +what became of the concert, St. Cecilia, who I suppose was at it, +knows more than I.</p> + +<p>I will only add, that the connexion which arose out of the +translation gave me more pleasure than any one I had the honour +to make in Italy.</p> + +<h2>THE DWARF.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">had</span> never heard the remark made +by any one in my life, except by one; and who that was will +probably come out in this chapter; so that being pretty much +unprepossessed, there must have been grounds for what struck me +the moment I cast my eyes over the parterre,—and that was, +the unaccountable sport of Nature in forming such numbers of +dwarfs.—No doubt she sports at certain times in almost +every corner of the world; but in Paris there is no end to her +amusements.—The goddess seems almost as merry as she is +wise.</p> + +<p>As I carried my idea out of the <i>Opéra Comique</i> with me, +I measured every body I saw walking in the streets by +it.—Melancholy application! especially where the size was +extremely little,—the face extremely dark,—the eyes +quick,—the nose long,—the teeth white,—the jaw +prominent,—to see so many miserables, by force of accidents +driven out of their own proper class into the very verge of +another, which it gives me pain to write down:—every third +man a pigmy!—some by rickety heads and hump +backs;—others by bandy legs;—a third set arrested by +the hand of Nature in the sixth and seventh years of their +growth;—a fourth, in their perfect and natural state like +dwarf apple trees; from the first rudiments and stamina of their +existence, never meant to grow higher.</p> + +<p>A Medical Traveller might say, ’tis owing to undue +bandages;—a Splenetic one, to want of air;—and an +Inquisitive Traveller, to fortify the system, may measure the +height of their houses,—the narrowness of their streets, +and in how few feet square in the sixth and seventh stories such +numbers of the bourgeoisie eat and sleep together; but I remember +Mr. Shandy the elder, who accounted for nothing like any body +else, in speaking one evening of these matters, averred that +children, like other animals, might be increased almost to any +size, provided they came right into the world; but the misery +was, the citizens of were Paris so coop’d up, that they had +not actually room enough to get them.—I do not call it +getting anything, said he;—’tis getting +nothing.—Nay, continued he, rising in his argument, +’tis getting worse than nothing, when all you have got +after twenty or five and twenty years of the tenderest care and +most nutritious aliment bestowed upon it, shall not at last be as +high as my leg. Now, Mr. Shandy being very short, there +could be nothing more said of it.</p> + +<p>As this is not a work of reasoning, I leave the solution as I +found it, and content myself with the truth only of the remark, +which is verified in every lane and by-lane of Paris. I was +walking down that which leads from the Carousal to the Palais +Royal, and observing a little boy in some distress at the side of +the gutter which ran down the middle of it, I took hold of his +hand and help’d him over. Upon turning up his face to +look at him after, I perceived he was about forty.—Never +mind, said I, some good body will do as much for me when I am +ninety.</p> + +<p>I feel some little principles within me which incline me to be +merciful towards this poor blighted part of my species, who have +neither size nor strength to get on in the world.—I cannot +bear to see one of them trod upon; and had scarce got seated +beside my old French officer, ere the disgust was exercised, by +seeing the very thing happen under the box we sat in.</p> + +<p>At the end of the orchestra, and betwixt that and the first +side box, there is a small esplanade left, where, when the house +is full, numbers of all ranks take sanctuary. Though you +stand, as in the parterre, you pay the same price as in the +orchestra. A poor defenceless being of this order had got +thrust somehow or other into this luckless place;—the night +was hot, and he was surrounded by beings two feet and a half +higher than himself. The dwarf suffered inexpressibly on +all sides; but the thing which incommoded him most, was a tall +corpulent German, near seven feet high, who stood directly +betwixt him and all possibility of his seeing either the stage or +the actors. The poor dwarf did all he could to get a peep +at what was going forwards, by seeking for some little opening +betwixt the German’s arm and his body, trying first on one +side, then the other; but the German stood square in the most +unaccommodating posture that can be imagined:—the dwarf +might as well have been placed at the bottom of the deepest +draw-well in Paris; so he civilly reached up his hand to the +German’s sleeve, and told him his distress.—The +German turn’d his head back, looked down upon him as Goliah +did upon David,—and unfeelingly resumed his posture.</p> + +<p>I was just then taking a pinch of snuff out of my monk’s +little horn box.—And how would thy meek and courteous +spirit, my dear monk! so temper’d to <i>bear and +forbear</i>!—how sweetly would it have lent an ear to this +poor soul’s complaint!</p> + +<p>The old French officer, seeing me lift up my eyes with an +emotion, as I made the apostrophe, took the liberty to ask me +what was the matter?—I told him the story in three words; +and added, how inhuman it was.</p> + +<p>By this time the dwarf was driven to extremes, and in his +first transports, which are generally unreasonable, had told the +German he would cut off his long queue with his knife.—The +German look’d back coolly, and told him he was welcome, if +he could reach it.</p> + +<p>An injury sharpen’d by an insult, be it to whom it will, +makes every man of sentiment a party: I could have leap’d +out of the box to have redressed it.—The old French officer +did it with much less confusion; for leaning a little over, and +nodding to a sentinel, and pointing at the same time with his +finger at the distress,—the sentinel made his +way to it.—There was no occasion to tell the +grievance,—the thing told himself; so thrusting back the +German instantly with his musket,—he took the poor dwarf by +the hand, and placed him before him.—This is noble! said I, +clapping my hands together.—And yet you would not permit +this, said the old officer, in England.</p> + +<p>—In England, dear Sir, said I, <i>we sit all at our +ease</i>.</p> + +<p>The old French officer would have set me at unity with myself, +in case I had been at variance,—by saying it was a <i>bon +mot</i>;—and, as a <i>bon mot</i> is always worth something +at Paris, he offered me a pinch of snuff.</p> + +<h2>THE ROSE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was now my turn to ask the old +French officer “What was the matter?” for a cry of +“<i>Haussez les mains</i>, <i>Monsieur +l’Abbé</i>!” re-echoed from a dozen different +parts of the parterre, was as unintelligible to me, as my +apostrophe to the monk had been to him.</p> + +<p>He told me it was some poor Abbé in one of the upper +loges, who, he supposed, had got planted perdu behind a couple of +grisettes in order to see the opera, and that the parterre +espying him, were insisting upon his holding up both his hands +during the representation.—And can it be supposed, said I, +that an ecclesiastic would pick the grisettes’ +pockets? The old French officer smiled, and whispering in +my ear, opened a door of knowledge which I had no idea of.</p> + +<p>Good God! said I, turning pale with astonishment—is it +possible, that a people so smit with sentiment should at the same +time be so unclean, and so unlike themselves,—<i>Quelle +grossièrté</i>! added I.</p> + +<p>The French officer told me, it was an illiberal sarcasm at the +church, which had begun in the theatre about the time the +Tartuffe was given in it by Molière: but like other +remains of Gothic manners, was declining.—Every nation, +continued he, have their refinements and <i>grossièrtés</i>, in which they take +the lead, and lose it of one another by turns:—that he had +been in most countries, but never in one where he found not some +delicacies, which others seemed to want. <i>Le</i> <span +class="GutSmall">POUR</span> <i>et le</i> <span +class="GutSmall">CONTRE</span> <i>se trouvent en chaque +nation</i>; there is a balance, said he, of good and bad +everywhere; and nothing but the knowing it is so, can emancipate +one half of the world from the prepossession which it holds +against the other:—that the advantage of travel, as it +regarded the <i>sçavoir vivre</i>, was by seeing a great +deal both of men and manners; it taught us mutual toleration; and +mutual toleration, concluded he, making me a bow, taught us +mutual love.</p> + +<p>The old French officer delivered this with an air of such +candour and good sense, as coincided with my first favourable +impressions of his character:—I thought I loved the man; +but I fear I mistook the object;—’twas my own way of +thinking—the difference was, I could not have expressed it +half so well.</p> + +<p>It is alike troublesome to both the rider and his +beast,—if the latter goes pricking up his ears, and +starting all the way at every object which he never saw +before.—I have as little torment of this kind as any +creature alive; and yet I honestly confess, that many a thing +gave me pain, and that I blush’d at many a word the first +month,—which I found inconsequent and perfectly innocent +the second.</p> + +<p>Madame do Rambouliet, after an acquaintance of about six weeks +with her, had done me the honour to take me in her coach about +two leagues out of town.—Of all women, Madame de Rambouliet +is the most correct; and I never wish to see one of more virtues +and purity of heart.—In our return back, Madame de +Rambouliet desired me to pull the cord.—I asked her if she +wanted anything—<i>Rien que pour pisser</i>, said Madame de +Rambouliet.</p> + +<p>Grieve not, gentle traveller, to let Madame de Rambouliet +p—ss on.—And, ye fair mystic nymphs! go each one +<i>pluck your rose</i>, and scatter them in your path,—for +Madame de Rambouliet did no more.—I handed Madame de +Rambouliet out of the coach; and had I been the priest of the +chaste Castalia, I could not have served at her fountain with a +more respectful decorum.</p> + +<h2>THE FILLE DE CHAMBRE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">What</span> the old French officer had +delivered upon travelling, bringing Polonius’s advice to +his son upon the same subject into my head,—and that +bringing in Hamlet, and Hamlet the rest of Shakespeare’s +works, I stopp’d at the Quai de Conti in my return home, to +purchase the whole set.</p> + +<p>The bookseller said he had not a set in the world. +<i>Comment</i>! said I, taking one up out of a set which lay upon +the counter betwixt us.—He said they were sent him only to +be got bound, and were to be sent back to Versailles in the +morning to the Count de B—.</p> + +<p>—And does the Count de B—, said I, read +Shakespeare? <i>C’est un esprit fort</i>, replied the +bookseller.—He loves English books! and what is more to his +honour, Monsieur, he loves the English too. You speak this +so civilly, said I, that it is enough to oblige an Englishman to +lay out a louis d’or or two at your shop.—The +bookseller made a bow, and was going to say something, when a +young decent girl about twenty, who by her air and dress seemed +to be <i>fille de chambre</i> to some devout woman of fashion, +come into the shop and asked for <i>Les Égarements du Cœur +et de l’Esprit</i>: the bookseller gave her the book +directly; she pulled out a little green satin purse run round +with a riband of the same colour, and putting her finger and +thumb into it, she took out the money and paid for it. As I +had nothing more to stay me in the shop, we both walk’d out +at the door together.</p> + +<p>—And what have you to do, my dear, said I, with <i>The +Wanderings of the Heart</i>, who scarce know yet you have one? +nor, till love has first told you it, or some faithless shepherd +has made it ache, canst thou ever be sure it is so.—<i>Le +Dieu m’en garde</i>! said the girl.—With reason, said +I, for if it is a good one, ’tis pity it should be stolen; +’tis a little treasure to thee, and gives a better air to +your face, than if it was dress’d out with pearls.</p> + +<p> +The young girl listened with a submissive attention, holding her +satin purse by its riband in her hand all the +time.—’Tis a very small one, said I, taking hold of +the bottom of it—she held it towards me—and there is +very little in it, my dear, said I; but be but as good as thou +art handsome, and heaven will fill it. I had a parcel of +crowns in my hand to pay for Shakespeare; and, as she had let go +the purse entirely, I put a single one in; and, tying up the +riband in a bow-knot, returned it to her.</p> + +<p>The young girl made me more a humble courtesy than a low +one:—’twas one of those quiet, thankful sinkings, +where the spirit bows itself down,—the body does no more +than tell it. I never gave a girl a crown in my life which +gave me half the pleasure.</p> + +<p>My advice, my dear, would not have been worth a pin to you, +said I, if I had not given this along with it: but now, when you +see the crown, you’ll remember it;—so don’t, my +dear, lay it out in ribands.</p> + +<p>Upon my word, Sir, said the girl, earnestly, I am +incapable;—in saying which, as is usual in little bargains +of honour, she gave me her hand:—<i>En +vérité</i>, <i>Monsieur</i>, <i>je mettrai cet +argent àpart</i>, said she.</p> + +<p>When a virtuous convention is made betwixt man and woman, it +sanctifies their most private walks: so, notwithstanding it was +dusky, yet as both our roads lay the same way, we made no scruple +of walking along the Quai de Conti together.</p> + +<p>She made me a second courtesy in setting off, and before we +got twenty yards from the door, as if she had not done enough +before, she made a sort of a little stop to tell me +again—she thank’d me.</p> + +<p>It was a small tribute, I told her, which I could not avoid +paying to virtue, and would not be mistaken in the person I had +been rendering it to for the world;—but I see innocence, my +dear, in your face,—and foul befall the man who ever lays a +snare in its way!</p> + +<p>The girl seem’d affected some way or other with what I +said;—she gave a low sigh:—I found I was not +empowered to enquire at all after it,—so said nothing more +till I got to the corner of the Rue de Nevers, where, we were to +part.</p> + +<p>—But is this the way, my dear, said I, to the +Hotel de Modene? She told me it was;—or that I might +go by the Rue de Gueneguault, which was the next turn.—Then +I’ll go, my dear, by the Rue de Gueneguault, said I, for +two reasons; first, I shall please myself, and next, I shall give +you the protection of my company as far on your way as I +can. The girl was sensible I was civil—and said, she +wished the Hotel de Modene was in the Rue de St. +Pierre.—You live there? said I.—She told me she was +<i>fille de chambre</i> to Madame R—.—Good God! said +I, ’tis the very lady for whom I have brought a letter from +Amiens.—The girl told me that Madame R—, she +believed, expected a stranger with a letter, and was impatient to +see him:—so I desired the girl to present my compliments to +Madame R—, and say, I would certainly wait upon her in the +morning.</p> + +<p>We stood still at the corner of the Rue de Nevers whilst this +pass’d.—We then stopped a moment whilst she disposed +of her <i>Égarements du Cœur</i>, &c. more commodiously +than carrying them in her hand—they were two volumes: so I +held the second for her whilst she put the first into her pocket; +and then she held her pocket, and I put in the other after +it.</p> + +<p>’Tis sweet to feel by what fine spun threads our +affections are drawn together.</p> + +<p>We set off afresh, and as she took her third step, the girl +put her hand within my arm.—I was just bidding +her,—but she did it of herself, with that undeliberating +simplicity, which show’d it was out of her head that she +had never seen me before. For my own part, I felt the +conviction of consanguinity so strongly, that I could not help +turning half round to look in her face, and see if I could trace +out any thing in it of a family likeness.—Tut! said I, are +we not all relations?</p> + +<p>When we arrived at the turning up of the Rue de Gueneguault, I +stopp’d to bid her adieu for good and all: the girl would +thank me again for my company and kindness.—She bid me +adieu twice.—I repeated it as often; and so cordial was the +parting between us, that had it happened any where else, +I’m not sure but I should have signed it with a kiss of +charity, as warm and holy as an apostle.</p> + +<p> +But in Paris, as none kiss each other but the men,—I did, what +amounted to the same thing—</p> + +<p>—I bid God bless her.</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I got home to my hotel, La +Fleur told me I had been enquired after by the Lieutenant de +Police.—The deuce take it! said I,—I know the +reason. It is time the reader should know it, for in the +order of things in which it happened, it was omitted: not that it +was out of my head; but that had I told it then it might have +been forgotten now;—and now is the time I want it.</p> + +<p>I had left London with so much precipitation, that it never +enter’d my mind that we were at war with France; and had +reached Dover, and looked through my glass at the hills beyond +Boulogne, before the idea presented itself; and with this in its +train, that there was no getting there without a passport. +Go but to the end of a street, I have a mortal aversion for +returning back no wiser than I set out; and as this was one of +the greatest efforts I had ever made for knowledge, I could less +bear the thoughts of it: so hearing the Count de —— had hired +the packet, I begg’d he would take me in his suite. +The Count had some little knowledge of me, so made little or no +difficulty,—only said, his inclination to serve me could +reach no farther than Calais, as he was to return by way of +Brussels to Paris; however, when I had once pass’d there, I +might get to Paris without interruption; but that in Paris I must +make friends and shift for myself.—Let me get to Paris, +Monsieur le Count, said I,—and I shall do very well. +So I embark’d, and never thought more of the matter.</p> + +<p>When La Fleur told me the Lieutenant de Police had been +enquiring after me,—the thing instantly recurred;—and +by the time La Fleur had well told me, the master of the hotel +came into my room to tell me the same thing, with this addition +to it, that my passport had been particularly asked +after: the master of the hotel concluded with saying, He hoped I +had one.—Not I, faith! said I.</p> + +<p>The master of the hotel retired three steps from me, as from +an infected person, as I declared this;—and poor La Fleur +advanced three steps towards me, and with that sort of movement +which a good soul makes to succour a distress’d +one:—the fellow won my heart by it; and from that single +trait I knew his character as perfectly, and could rely upon it +as firmly, as if he had served me with fidelity for seven +years.</p> + +<p><i>Mon seigneur</i>! cried the master of the hotel; but +recollecting himself as he made the exclamation, he instantly +changed the tone of it.—If Monsieur, said he, has not a +passport (<i>apparemment</i>) in all likelihood he has friends in +Paris who can procure him one.—Not that I know of, quoth I, +with an air of indifference.—Then <i>certes</i>, replied +he, you’ll be sent to the Bastile or the Chatelet <i>au +moins</i>.—Poo! said I, the King of France is a good +natur’d soul:—he’ll hurt nobody.—<i>Cela +n’empêche pas</i>, said he—you will certainly +be sent to the Bastile to-morrow morning.—But I’ve +taken your lodgings for a month, answer’d I, and I’ll +not quit them a day before the time for all the kings of France +in the world. La Fleur whispered in my ear, That nobody +could oppose the king of France.</p> + +<p><i>Pardi</i>! said my host, <i>ces Messieurs Anglois sont des +gens très extraordinaires</i>;—and, having both said +and sworn it,—he went out.</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE HOTEL AT PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">could</span> not find in my heart to +torture La Fleur’s with a serious look upon the subject of +my embarrassment, which was the reason I had treated it so +cavalierly: and to show him how light it lay upon my mind, I +dropt the subject entirely; and whilst he waited upon me at +supper, talk’d to him with more than usual gaiety about +Paris, and of the Opéra Comique.—La Fleur had been +there himself, and had followed me through the streets as far as +the bookseller’s shop; but seeing me come out with +the young <i>fille de chambre</i>, and that we walk’d down +the Quai de Conti together, La Fleur deem’d it unnecessary +to follow me a step further;—so making his own reflections +upon it, he took a shorter cut,—and got to the hotel in +time to be inform’d of the affair of the police against my +arrival.</p> + +<p>As soon as the honest creature had taken away, and gone down +to sup himself, I then began to think a little seriously about my +situation.—</p> + +<p>—And here, I know, Eugenius, thou wilt smile at the +remembrance of a short dialogue which passed betwixt us the +moment I was going to set out:—I must tell it here.</p> + +<p>Eugenius, knowing that I was as little subject to be +overburden’d with money as thought, had drawn me aside to +interrogate me how much I had taken care for. Upon telling +him the exact sum, Eugenius shook his head, and said it would not +do; so pull’d out his purse in order to empty it into +mine.—I’ve enough in conscience, Eugenius, said +I.—Indeed, Yorick, you have not, replied Eugenius; I know +France and Italy better than you.—But you don’t +consider, Eugenius, said I, refusing his offer, that before I +have been three days in Paris, I shall take care to say or do +something or other for which I shall get clapp’d up into +the Bastile, and that I shall live there a couple of months +entirely at the king of France’s expense.—I beg +pardon, said Eugenius drily: really I had forgot that +resource.</p> + +<p>Now the event I treated gaily came seriously to my door.</p> + +<p>Is it folly, or nonchalance, or philosophy, or +pertinacity—or what is it in me, that, after all, when La +Fleur had gone down stairs, and I was quite alone, I could not +bring down my mind to think of it otherwise than I had then +spoken of it to Eugenius?</p> + +<p>—And as for the Bastile; the terror is in the +word.—Make the most of it you can, said I to myself, the +Bastile is but another word for a tower;—and a tower is but +another word for a house you can’t get out of.—Mercy +on the gouty! for they are in it twice a year.—But with +nine livres a day, and pen and ink, and paper, and patience, +albeit a man can’t get out, he may do very well +within,—at least for a month or six weeks; at the end of +which, if he is a harmless fellow, his innocence appears, and he +comes out a better and wiser man than he went in.</p> + +<p>I had some occasion (I forget what) to step into the +court-yard, as I settled this account; and remember I +walk’d down stairs in no small triumph with the conceit of +my reasoning.—Beshrew the sombre pencil! said I, +vauntingly—for I envy not its powers, which paints the +evils of life with so hard and deadly a colouring. The mind +sits terrified at the objects she has magnified herself, and +blackened: reduce them to their proper size and hue, she +overlooks them.—’Tis true, said I, correcting the +proposition,—the Bastile is not an evil to be +despised;—but strip it of its towers—fill up the +fosse,—unbarricade the doors—call it simply a +confinement, and suppose ’tis some tyrant of a +distemper—and not of a man, which holds you in +it,—the evil vanishes, and you bear the other half without +complaint.</p> + +<p>I was interrupted in the heyday of this soliloquy, with a +voice which I took to be of a child, which complained “it +could not get out.”—I look’d up and down the +passage, and seeing neither man, woman, nor child, I went out +without farther attention.</p> + +<p>In my return back through the passage, I heard the same words +repeated twice over; and, looking up, I saw it was a starling +hung in a little cage.—“I can’t get +out,—I can’t get out,” said the starling.</p> + +<p>I stood looking at the bird: and to every person who came +through the passage it ran fluttering to the side towards which +they approach’d it, with the same lamentation of its +captivity. “I can’t get out,” said the +starling.—God help thee! said I, but I’ll let thee +out, cost what it will; so I turned about the cage to get to the +door: it was twisted and double twisted so fast with wire, there +was no getting it open without pulling the cage to +pieces.—I took both hands to it.</p> + +<p>The bird flew to the place where I was attempting his +deliverance, and thrusting his head through the trellis pressed +his breast against it as if impatient.—I fear, poor +creature! said I, I cannot set thee at +liberty.—“No,” said the starling,— +“I can’t get out—I can’t get out,” +said the starling.</p> + +<p> +I vow I never had my affections more tenderly awakened; nor do I +remember an incident in my life, where the dissipated spirits, to +which my reason had been a bubble, were so suddenly call’d +home. Mechanical as the notes were, yet so true in tune to +nature were they chanted, that in one moment they overthrew all +my systematic reasonings upon the Bastile; and I heavily walked +upstairs, unsaying every word I had said in going down them.</p> + +<p>Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, Slavery! said +I,—still thou art a bitter draught! and though thousands in +all ages have been made to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter +on that account.—’Tis thou, thrice sweet and gracious +goddess, addressing myself to Liberty, whom all in public or in +private worship, whose taste is grateful, and ever will be so, +till Nature herself shall change.—No <i>tint</i> of words +can spot thy snowy mantle, or chymic power turn thy sceptre into +iron:—with thee to smile upon him as he eats his crust, the +swain is happier than his monarch, from whose court thou art +exiled!—Gracious Heaven! cried I, kneeling down upon the +last step but one in my ascent, grant me but health, thou great +Bestower of it, and give me but this fair goddess as my +companion,—and shower down thy mitres, if it seems good +unto thy divine providence, upon those heads which are aching for +them!</p> + +<h2>THE CAPTIVE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> bird in his cage pursued me +into my room; I sat down close to my table, and leaning my head +upon my hand, I began to figure to myself the miseries of +confinement. I was in a right frame for it, and so I gave +full scope to my imagination.</p> + +<p>I was going to begin with the millions of my fellow-creatures +born to no inheritance but slavery: but finding, however +affecting the picture was, that I could not bring it near me, and +that the multitude of sad groups in it did but distract +me.—</p> + +<p> +—I took a single captive, and having first shut +him up in his dungeon, I then look’d through the twilight +of his grated door to take his picture.</p> + +<p>I beheld his body half-wasted away with long expectation and +confinement, and felt what kind of sickness of the heart it was +which arises from hope deferr’d. Upon looking nearer +I saw him pale and feverish: in thirty years the western breeze +had not once fann’d his blood;—he had seen no sun, no +moon, in all that time—nor had the voice of friend or +kinsman breathed through his lattice.—His +children—</p> + +<p>But here my heart began to bleed—and I was forced to go +on with another part of the portrait.</p> + +<p>He was sitting upon the ground upon a little straw, in the +furthest corner of his dungeon, which was alternately his chair +and bed: a little calendar of small sticks were laid at the head, +notch’d all over with the dismal days and nights he had +passed there;—he had one of these little sticks in his +hand, and, with a rusty nail he was etching another day of misery +to add to the heap. As I darkened the little light he had, +he lifted up a hopeless eye towards the door, then cast it +down,—shook his head, and went on with his work of +affliction. I heard his chains upon his legs, as he turned +his body to lay his little stick upon the bundle.—He gave a +deep sigh.—I saw the iron enter into his soul!—I +burst into tears.—I could not sustain the picture of +confinement which my fancy had drawn.—I started up from my +chair, and calling La Fleur: I bid him bespeak me a remise, and +have it ready at the door of the hotel by nine in the +morning.</p> + +<p>I’ll go directly, said I, myself to Monsieur le Duc de +Choiseul.</p> + +<p>La Fleur would have put me to bed; but—not willing he +should see anything upon my cheek which would cost the honest +fellow a heart-ache,—I told him I would go to bed by +myself,—and bid him go do the same.</p> + +<h2>THE STARLING.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">ROAD TO VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">got</span> into my remise the hour I +proposed: La Fleur got up behind, and I bid the coachman make the +best of his way to Versailles.</p> + +<p>As there was nothing in this road, or rather nothing which I +look for in travelling, I cannot fill up the blank better than +with a short history of this self-same bird, which became the +subject of the last chapter.</p> + +<p>Whilst the Honourable Mr. — was waiting for a wind at +Dover, it had been caught upon the cliffs, before it could well +fly, by an English lad who was his groom; who, not caring to +destroy it, had taken it in his breast into the +packet;—and, by course of feeding it, and taking it once +under his protection, in a day or two grew fond of it, and got it +safe along with him to Paris.</p> + +<p>At Paris the lad had laid out a livre in a little cage for the +starling, and as he had little to do better the five months his +master staid there, he taught it, in his mother’s tongue, +the four simple words—(and no more)—to which I +own’d myself so much its debtor.</p> + +<p>Upon his master’s going on for Italy, the lad had given +it to the master of the hotel. But his little song for +liberty being in an <i>unknown</i> language at Paris, the bird +had little or no store set by him: so La Fleur bought both him +and his cage for me for a bottle of Burgundy.</p> + +<p>In my return from Italy I brought him with me to the country +in whose language he had learned his notes; and telling the story +of him to Lord A—, Lord A— begg’d the bird of +me;—in a week Lord A— gave him to Lord B—; Lord +B— made a present of him to Lord C—; and Lord +C—’s gentleman sold him to Lord D—’s for +a shilling; Lord D— gave him to Lord E—; and so +on—half round the alphabet. From that rank he +pass’d into the lower house, and pass’d the hands of +as many commoners. But as all these wanted to <i>get +in</i>, and my bird wanted to <i>get out</i>, he had almost as +little store set by him in London as in Paris.</p> + +<p> +It is impossible but many of my readers must have heard of him; and if +any by mere chance have ever seen him, I beg leave to inform +them, that that bird was my bird, or some vile copy set up to +represent him.</p> + +<p> +<a href="images/p621b.jpg"> +<img class='floatright' alt= +"The starling as the crest of arms" +title= +"The starling as the crest of arms" + src="images/p621s.jpg" /> +</a>I have nothing farther to add upon him, but that from that +time to this I have borne this poor starling as the crest to my +arms.—Thus:</p> + +<p>—And let the herald’s officers twist his neck +about if they dare.</p> + +<h2>THE ADDRESS.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">should</span> not like to have my enemy +take a view of my mind when I am going to ask protection of any +man; for which reason I generally endeavour to protect myself; +but this going to Monsieur le Duc de C— was an act of +compulsion; had it been an act of choice, I should have done it, +I suppose, like other people.</p> + +<p>How many mean plans of dirty address, as I went along, did my +servile heart form! I deserved the Bastile for every one of +them.</p> + +<p>Then nothing would serve me when I got within sight of +Versailles, but putting words and sentences together, and +conceiving attitudes and tones to wreath myself into Monsieur le +Duc de C—’s good graces.—This will do, said +I.—Just as well, retorted I again, as a coat carried up to +him by an adventurous tailor, without taking his measure. +Fool! continued I,—see Monsieur le Duc’s face +first;—observe what character is written in it;—take +notice in what posture he stands to hear you;—mark the +turns and expressions of his body and limbs;—and for the +tone,—the first sound which comes from his lips will give +it you; and from all these together you’ll compound an +address at once upon the spot, which cannot disgust the +Duke;—the ingredients are his own, and most likely to go +down.</p> + +<p> +Well! said I, I wish it well over.—Coward again! as if man to man +was not equal throughout the whole surface of the globe; and if +in the field—why not face to face in the cabinet too? +And trust me, Yorick, whenever it is not so, man is false to +himself and betrays his own succours ten times where nature does +it once. Go to the Duc de C— with the Bastile in thy +looks;—my life for it, thou wilt be sent back to Paris in +half an hour with an escort.</p> + +<p>I believe so, said I.—Then I’ll go to the Duke, by +heaven! with all the gaiety and debonairness in the +world.—</p> + +<p>—And there you are wrong again, replied I.—A heart +at ease, Yorick, flies into no extremes—’tis ever on +its centre.—Well! well! cried I, as the coachman +turn’d in at the gates, I find I shall do very well: and by +the time he had wheel’d round the court, and brought me up +to the door, I found myself so much the better for my own +lecture, that I neither ascended the steps like a victim to +justice, who was to part with life upon the top most,—nor +did I mount them with a skip and a couple of strides, as I do +when I fly up, Eliza! to thee to meet it.</p> + +<p>As I entered the door of the saloon I was met by a person, who +possibly might be the <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, +but had more the air of one of the under secretaries, who told me +the Duc de C— was busy.—I am utterly ignorant, said +I, of the forms of obtaining an audience, being an absolute +stranger, and what is worse in the present conjuncture of +affairs, being an Englishman too.—He replied, that did not +increase the difficulty.—I made him a slight bow, and told +him, I had something of importance to say to Monsieur le +Duc. The secretary look’d towards the stairs, as if +he was about to leave me to carry up this account to some +one.—But I must not mislead you, said I,—for what I +have to say is of no manner of importance to Monsieur le Duc de +C— —but of great importance to +myself.—<i>C’est une autre affaire</i>, replied +he.—Not at all, said I, to a man of gallantry.—But +pray, good sir, continued I, when can a stranger hope to have +access?—In not less than two hours, said he, looking at his +watch. The number of equipages in the court-yard seemed to +justify the calculation, that I could have no nearer a +prospect;—and as walking backwards and forwards in the +saloon, without a soul to commune with, was for the time as bad +as being in the Bastile itself, I instantly went back to my +remise, and bid the coachman drive me to the <i>Cordon Bleu</i>, +which was the nearest hotel.</p> + +<p>I think there is a fatality in it;—I seldom go to the +place I set out for.</p> + +<h2>LE PATISSIER.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> I had got half way down the +street I changed my mind: as I am at Versailles, thought I, I +might as well take a view of the town; so I pull’d the +cord, and ordered the coachman to drive round some of the +principal streets.—I suppose the town is not very large, +said I.—The coachman begg’d pardon for setting me +right, and told me it was very superb, and that numbers of the +first dukes and marquises and counts had hotels.—The Count +de B—, of whom the bookseller at the Quai de Conti had +spoke so handsomely the night before, came instantly into my +mind.—And why should I not go, thought I, to the Count de +B—, who has so high an idea of English books and English +men—and tell him my story? so I changed my mind a second +time.—In truth it was the third; for I had intended that +day for Madame de R—, in the Rue St. Pierre, and had +devoutly sent her word by her <i>fille de chambre</i> that I +would assuredly wait upon her;—but I am governed by +circumstances;—I cannot govern them: so seeing a man +standing with a basket on the other side of the street, as if he +had something to sell, I bid La Fleur go up to him, and enquire +for the Count’s hotel.</p> + +<p>La Fleur returned a little pale; and told me it was a +Chevalier de St. Louis selling pâtés.—It is +impossible, La Fleur, said I.—La Fleur could no more +account for the phenomenon than myself; but persisted in his +story: he had seen the croix set in gold, with its red riband, he +said, tied to his buttonhole—and had looked into the basket +and seen the pâtés which the Chevalier was selling; so could +not be mistaken in that.</p> + +<p>Such a reverse in man’s life awakens a better principle +than curiosity: I could not help looking for some time at him as +I sat in the remise:—the more I look’d at him, his +croix, and his basket, the stronger they wove themselves into my +brain.—I got out of the remise, and went towards him.</p> + +<p>He was begirt with a clean linen apron which fell below his +knees, and with a sort of a bib that went half way up his breast; +upon the top of this, but a little below the hem, hung his +croix. His basket of little pâtés was covered +over with a white damask napkin; another of the same kind was +spread at the bottom; and there was a look of +<i>propreté</i> and neatness throughout, that one might +have bought his pâtés of him, as much from appetite +as sentiment.</p> + +<p>He made an offer of them to neither; but stood still with them +at the corner of an hotel, for those to buy who chose it without +solicitation.</p> + +<p>He was about forty-eight;—of a sedate look, something +approaching to gravity. I did not wonder.—I went up +rather to the basket than him, and having lifted up the napkin, +and taking one of his pâtés into my hand,—I +begg’d he would explain the appearance which affected +me.</p> + +<p>He told me in a few words, that the best part of his life had +passed in the service, in which, after spending a small +patrimony, he had obtained a company and the croix with it; but +that, at the conclusion of the last peace, his regiment being +reformed, and the whole corps, with those of some other +regiments, left without any provision, he found himself in a wide +world without friends, without a livre,—and indeed, said +he, without anything but this,—(pointing, as he said it, to +his croix).—The poor Chevalier won my pity, and he finished +the scene with winning my esteem too.</p> + +<p>The king, he said, was the most generous of princes, but his +generosity could neither relieve nor reward everyone, and it was +only his misfortune to be amongst the number. He had a +little wife, he said, whom he loved, who did the <i>pâtisserie</i>; and added, he felt no +dishonour in defending her and himself from want in this +way—unless Providence had offer’d him a better.</p> + +<p>It would be wicked to withhold a pleasure from the good, in +passing over what happen’d to this poor Chevalier of St. +Louis about nine months after.</p> + +<p>It seems he usually took his stand near the iron gates which +lead up to the palace, and as his croix had caught the eyes of +numbers, numbers had made the same enquiry which I had +done.—He had told them the same story, and always with so +much modesty and good sense, that it had reach’d at last +the king’s ears;—who, hearing the Chevalier had been +a gallant officer, and respected by the whole regiment as a man +of honour and integrity,—he broke up his little trade by a +pension of fifteen hundred livres a year.</p> + +<p>As I have told this to please the reader, I beg he will allow +me to relate another, out of its order, to please +myself:—the two stories reflect light upon each +other,—and ’tis a pity they should be parted.</p> + +<h2>THE SWORD.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">RENNES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> states and empires have their +periods of declension, and feel in their turns what distress and +poverty is,—I stop not to tell the causes which gradually +brought the house d’E—, in Brittany, into +decay. The Marquis d’E— had fought up against +his condition with great firmness; wishing to preserve, and still +show to the world, some little fragments of what his ancestors +had been;—their indiscretions had put it out of his +power. There was enough left for the little exigencies of +<i>obscurity</i>.—But he had two boys who looked up to him +for <i>light</i>;—he thought they deserved it. He had +tried his sword—it could not open the way,—the +<i>mounting</i> was too expensive,—and simple economy was +not a match for it:—there was no resource but commerce.</p> + +<p> +In any other province in France, save Brittany, this was smiting the +root for ever of the little tree his pride and affection +wish’d to see re-blossom.—But in Brittany, there +being a provision for this, he avail’d himself of it; and, +taking an occasion when the states were assembled at Rennes, the +Marquis, attended with his two boys, entered the court; and +having pleaded the right of an ancient law of the duchy, which, +though seldom claim’d, he said, was no less in force, he +took his sword from his side:—Here, said he, take it; and +be trusty guardians of it, till better times put me in condition +to reclaim it.</p> + +<p>The president accepted the Marquis’s sword: he staid a +few minutes to see it deposited in the archives of his +house—and departed.</p> + +<p>The Marquis and his whole family embarked the next day for +Martinico, and in about nineteen or twenty years of successful +application to business, with some unlook’d for bequests +from distant branches of his house, return home to reclaim his +nobility, and to support it.</p> + +<p>It was an incident of good fortune which will never happen to +any traveller but a Sentimental one, that I should be at Rennes +at the very time of this solemn requisition: I call it +solemn;—it was so to me.</p> + +<p>The Marquis entered the court with his whole family: he +supported his lady,—his eldest son supported his sister, +and his youngest was at the other extreme of the line next his +mother;—he put his handkerchief to his face +twice.—</p> + +<p>—There was a dead silence. When the Marquis had +approached within six paces of the tribunal, he gave the +Marchioness to his youngest son, and advancing three steps before +his family,—he reclaim’d his sword. His sword +was given him, and the moment he got it into his hand he drew it +almost out of the scabbard:—’twas the shining face of +a friend he had once given up—he look’d attentively +along it, beginning at the hilt, as if to see whether it was the +same,—when, observing a little rust which it had contracted +near the point, he brought it near his eye, and bending his head +down over it,—I think—I saw a tear fall upon the +place. I could not be deceived by what followed.</p> + +<p>“I shall find,” said he, “some <i>other +way</i> to get it off.”</p> + +<p> +When the Marquis had said this, he returned his sword into its +scabbard, made a bow to the guardians of it,—and, with his +wife and daughter, and his two sons following him, walk’d +out.</p> + +<p>O, how I envied him his feelings!</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">found</span> no difficulty in getting +admittance to Monsieur le Count de B—. The set of +Shakespeares was laid upon the table, and he was tumbling them +over. I walk’d up close to the table, and giving +first such a look at the books as to make him conceive I knew +what they were,—I told him I had come without any one to +present me, knowing I should meet with a friend in his apartment, +who, I trusted, would do it for me:—it is my countryman, +the great Shakespeare, said I, pointing to his works—<i>et +ayez la bonté</i>, <i>mon cher ami</i>, apostrophizing his +spirit, added I, <i>de me faire cet +honneur-là</i>.—</p> + +<p>The Count smiled at the singularity of the introduction; and +seeing I look’d a little pale and sickly, insisted upon my +taking an arm-chair; so I sat down; and to save him conjectures +upon a visit so out of all rule, I told him simply of the +incident in the bookseller’s shop, and how that had +impelled me rather to go to him with the story of a little +embarrassment I was under, than to any other man in +France.—And what is your embarrassment? let me hear it, +said the Count. So I told him the story just as I have told +it the reader.</p> + +<p>—And the master of my hotel, said I, as I concluded it, +will needs have it, Monsieur le Count, that I shall be sent to +the Bastile;—but I have no apprehensions, continued +I;—for, in falling into the hands of the most +polish’d people in the world, and being conscious I was a +true man, and not come to spy the nakedness of the land, I scarce +thought I lay at their mercy.—It does not suit the +gallantry of the French, Monsieur le Count, said I, to show it +against invalids.</p> + +<p> +An animated blush came into the Count de B—’s cheeks as +I spoke this.—<i>Ne craignez rien</i>—Don’t +fear, said he.—Indeed, I don’t, replied I +again.—Besides, continued I, a little sportingly, I have +come laughing all the way from London to Paris, and I do not +think Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul is such an enemy to mirth as to +send me back crying for my pains.</p> + +<p>—My application to you, Monsieur le Count de B— +(making him a low bow), is to desire he will not.</p> + +<p>The Count heard me with great good nature, or I had not said +half as much,—and once or twice said,—<i>C’est +bien dit</i>. So I rested my cause there—and +determined to say no more about it.</p> + +<p>The Count led the discourse: we talk’d of indifferent +things,—of books, and politics, and men;—and then of +women.—God bless them all! said I, after much discourse +about them—there is not a man upon earth who loves them so +much as I do: after all the foibles I have seen, and all the +satires I have read against them, still I love them; being firmly +persuaded that a man, who has not a sort of affection for the +whole sex, is incapable of ever loving a single one as he +ought.</p> + +<p><i>Eh bien</i>! <i>Monsieur l’Anglois</i>, said +the Count, gaily;—you are not come to spy the nakedness of +the land;—I believe you;—<i>ni encore</i>, I dare +say, <i>that</i> of our women!—But permit me to +conjecture,—if, <i>par hazard</i>, they fell into your way, +that the prospect would not affect you.</p> + +<p>I have something within me which cannot bear the shock of the +least indecent insinuation: in the sportability of chit-chat I +have often endeavoured to conquer it, and with infinite pain have +hazarded a thousand things to a dozen of the sex +together,—the least of which I could not venture to a +single one to gain heaven.</p> + +<p>Excuse me, Monsieur le Count, said I;—as for the +nakedness of your land, if I saw it, I should cast my eyes over +it with tears in them;—and for that of your women (blushing +at the idea he had excited in me) I am so evangelical in this, +and have such a fellow-feeling for whatever is weak about them, +that I would cover it with a garment if I knew how to throw it +on:—But I could wish, continued I, to spy the nakedness of +their hearts, and through the different disguises of customs, +climates, and religion, find out what is good in them to fashion +my own by:—and therefore am I come.</p> + +<p>It is for this reason, Monsieur le Count, continued I, that I +have not seen the Palais Royal,—nor the +Luxembourg,—nor the Façade of the Louvre,—nor +have attempted to swell the catalogues we have of pictures, +statues, and churches.—I conceive every fair being as a +temple, and would rather enter in, and see the original drawings +and loose sketches hung up in it, than the Transfiguration of +Raphael itself.</p> + +<p>The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which +inflames the breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own +home into France,—and from France will lead me through +Italy;—’tis a quiet journey of the heart in pursuit +of Nature, and those affections which arise out of her, which +make us love each other,—and the world, better than we +do.</p> + +<p>The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the +occasion; and added very politely, how much he stood obliged to +Shakespeare for making me known to him.—But <i>à +propos</i>, said he;—Shakespeare is full of great +things;—he forgot a small punctilio of announcing your +name:—it puts you under a necessity of doing it +yourself.</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is not a more perplexing +affair in life to me, than to set about telling any one who I +am,—for there is scarce any body I cannot give a better +account of than myself; and I have often wished I could do it in +a single word,—and have an end of it. It was the only +time and occasion in my life I could accomplish this to any +purpose;—for Shakespeare lying upon the table, and +recollecting I was in his books, I took up Hamlet, and turning +immediately to the grave-diggers’ scene in the fifth act, I +laid my finger upon Yorick, and advancing the book to the Count, with my +finger all the way over the name,—<i>Me voici</i>! said +I.</p> + +<p>Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick’s skull was put out +of the Count’s mind by the reality of my own, or by what +magic he could drop a period of seven or eight hundred years, +makes nothing in this account;—’tis certain the +French conceive better than they combine;—I wonder at +nothing in this world, and the less at this; inasmuch as one of +the first of our own Church, for whose candour and paternal +sentiments I have the highest veneration, fell into the same +mistake in the very same case:—“He could not +bear,” he said, “to look into the sermons wrote by +the King of Denmark’s jester.” Good, my Lord +said I; but there are two Yoricks. The Yorick your Lordship +thinks of, has been dead and buried eight hundred years ago; he +flourished in Horwendillus’s court;—the other Yorick +is myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court.—He +shook his head. Good God! said I, you might as well +confound Alexander the Great with Alexander the Coppersmith, my +lord!—“’Twas all one,” he +replied.—</p> + +<p>—If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated +your Lordship, said I, I’m sure your Lordship would not +have said so.</p> + +<p>The poor Count de B— fell but into the same +<i>error</i>.</p> + +<p>—<i>Et</i>, <i>Monsieur</i>, <i>est-il Yorick</i>? cried +the Count.—<i>Je le suis</i>, said +I.—<i>Vous</i>?—<i>Moi</i>,—<i>moi qui ai +l’honneur de vous parler</i>, <i>Monsieur le +Comte</i>.—<i>Mon Dieu</i>! said he, embracing +me,—<i>Vous êtes Yorick</i>!</p> + +<p>The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and +left me alone in his room.</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">could</span> not conceive why the Count +de B— had gone so abruptly out of the room, any more than I +could conceive why he had put the Shakespeare into his +pocket.—<i>Mysteries which must explain themselves are not +worth the loss of time which a conjecture about them takes +up</i>: ’twas better to read Shakespeare; so taking up +“<i>Much Ado About Nothing</i>,” I transported myself +instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in Sicily, and got +so busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, that I +thought not of Versailles, the Count, or the passport.</p> + +<p>Sweet pliability of man’s spirit, that can at once +surrender itself to illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow +of their weary moments!—Long,—long since had ye +number’d out my days, had I not trod so great a part of +them upon this enchanted ground. When my way is too rough +for my feet, or too steep for my strength, I get off it, to some +smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered over with rosebuds +of delights; and having taken a few turns in it, come back +strengthened and refresh’d.—When evils press sore +upon me, and there is no retreat from them in this world, then I +take a new course;—I leave it,—and as I have a +clearer idea of the Elysian fields than I have of heaven, I force +myself, like Æneas, into them.—I see him meet the +pensive shade of his forsaken Dido, and wish to recognise +it;—I see the injured spirit wave her head, and turn off +silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours;—I +lose the feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections +which were wont to make me mourn for her when I was at +school.</p> + +<p><i>Surely this is not walking in a vain shadow—nor does +man disquiet himself</i> in vain <i>by it</i>:—he oftener +does so in trusting the issue of his commotions to reason +only.—I can safely say for myself, I was never able to +conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart so decisively, +as beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and gentle +sensation to fight it upon its own ground.</p> + +<p>When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de +B— entered, with my passport in his hand. Monsieur le +Duc de C—, said the Count, is as good a prophet, I dare +say, as he is a statesman. <i>Un homme qui rit</i>, said +the Duke, <i>ne sera jamais dangereux</i>.—Had it been for +any one but the king’s jester, added the Count, I could not +have got it these two hours.—<i>Pardonnez moi</i>, Monsieur +le Count, said I—I am not the king’s +jester.—But you are Yorick?—Yes.—<i>Et +vous plaisantez</i>?—I answered, Indeed I did +jest,—but was not paid for it;—’twas entirely +at my own expense.</p> + +<p>We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the +last we had was in the licentious reign of Charles +II.;—since which time our manners have been so gradually +refining, that our court at present is so full of patriots, who +wish for <i>nothing</i> but the honours and wealth of their +country;—and our ladies are all so chaste, so spotless, so +good, so devout,—there is nothing for a jester to make a +jest of.—</p> + +<p><i>Voilà un persiflage</i>! cried the Count.</p> + +<h2>THE PASSPORT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> the passport was directed to all +lieutenant-governors, governors, and commandants of cities, +generals of armies, justiciaries, and all officers of justice, to +let Mr. Yorick the king’s jester, and his baggage, travel +quietly along, I own the triumph of obtaining the passport was +not a little tarnish’d by the figure I cut in it.—But +there is nothing unmix’d in this world; and some of the +gravest of our divines have carried it so far as to affirm, that +enjoyment itself was attended even with a sigh,—and that +the greatest <i>they knew of</i> terminated, <i>in a general +way</i>, in little better than a convulsion.</p> + +<p>I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his +Commentary upon the Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks +off in the middle of a note to give an account to the world of a +couple of sparrows upon the out-edge of his window, which had +incommoded him all the time he wrote, and at last had entirely +taken him off from his genealogy.</p> + +<p>—’Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts +are certain, for I have had the curiosity to mark them down one +by one with my pen;—but the cock sparrow, during the little +time that I could have finished the other half of this note, +has actually interrupted me with the reiteration of his caresses +three-and-twenty times and a half.</p> + +<p>How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his +creatures!</p> + +<p>Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be +able to write that to the world, which stains thy face with +crimson to copy, even in thy study.</p> + +<p>But this is nothing to my travels.—So I +twice,—twice beg pardon for it.</p> + +<h2>CHARACTER.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">VERSAILLES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">And</span> how do you find the French? +said the Count de B—, after he had given me the +passport.</p> + +<p>The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of +courtesy, I could not be at a loss to say something handsome to +the enquiry.</p> + +<p>—<i>Mais passe</i>, <i>pour cela</i>.—Speak +frankly, said he: do you find all the urbanity in the French +which the world give us the honour of?—I had found every +thing, I said, which confirmed it.—<i>Vraiment</i>, said +the Count, <i>les François sont polis</i>.—To an +excess, replied I.</p> + +<p>The Count took notice of the word <i>excès</i>; and +would have it I meant more than I said. I defended myself a +long time as well as I could against it.—He insisted I had +a reserve, and that I would speak my opinion frankly.</p> + +<p>I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain +compass, as well as an instrument; and that the social and other +calls have occasion by turns for every key in him; so that if you +begin a note too high or too low, there must be a want either in +the upper or under part, to fill up the system of +harmony.—The Count de B— did not understand music, so +desired me to explain it some other way. A polish’d +nation, my dear Count, said I, makes every one its debtor: and +besides, Urbanity itself, like the fair sex, has so many charms, +it goes against the heart to say it can do ill; and yet, I +believe, there is but a certain line of perfection, that man, +take him altogether, is empower’d to arrive at:—if +he gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than gets +them. I must not presume to say how far this has affected +the French in the subject we are speaking of;—but, should +it ever be the case of the English, in the progress of their +refinements, to arrive at the same polish which distinguishes the +French, if we did not lose the <i>politesse du cœur</i>, +which inclines men more to humane actions than courteous +ones,—we should at least lose that distinct variety and +originality of character, which distinguishes them, not only from +each other, but from all the world besides.</p> + +<p>I had a few of King William’s shillings, as smooth as +glass, in my pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the +illustration of my hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I +had proceeded so far:—</p> + +<p>See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them +before him upon the table,—by jingling and rubbing one +against another for seventy years together in one body’s +pocket or another’s, they are become so much alike, you can +scarce distinguish one shilling from another.</p> + +<p>The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and passing +but few people’s hands, preserve the first sharpnesses +which the fine hand of Nature has given them;—they are not +so pleasant to feel,—but in return the legend is so +visible, that at the first look you see whose image and +superscription they bear.—But the French, Monsieur le +Count, added I (wishing to soften what I had said), have so many +excellences, they can the better spare this;—they are a +loyal, a gallant, a generous, an ingenious, and good +temper’d people as is under heaven;—if they have a +fault—they are too <i>serious</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! cried the Count, rising out of his chair.</p> + +<p><i>Mais vous plaisantez</i>, said he, correcting his +exclamation.—I laid my hand upon my breast, and with +earnest gravity assured him it was my most settled opinion.</p> + +<p>The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my +reasons, being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de +C—.</p> + +<p>But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your +soup with me, I beg, before you leave France, I may have the +pleasure of knowing you retract your opinion,—or, in what manner +you support it.—But, if you do support it, Monsieur +Anglois, said he, you must do it with all your powers, because +you have the whole world against you.—I promised the Count +I would do myself the honour of dining with him before I set out +for Italy;—so took my leave.</p> + +<h2>THE TEMPTATION.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I alighted at the hotel, the +porter told me a young woman with a bandbox had been that moment +enquiring for me.—I do not know, said the porter, whether +she is gone away or not. I took the key of my chamber of +him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within ten steps of +the top of the landing before my door, I met her coming easily +down.</p> + +<p>It was the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> I had walked along the +Quai de Conti with; Madame de R— had sent her upon some +commission to a <i>marchande des modes</i> within a step or two +of the Hôtel de Modene; and as I had fail’d in +waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I had left Paris; and if +so, whether I had not left a letter addressed to her.</p> + +<p>As the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> was so near my door, she +returned back, and went into the room with me for a moment or two +whilst I wrote a card.</p> + +<p>It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of +May,—the crimson window curtains (which were of the same +colour as those of the bed) were drawn close:—the sun was +setting, and reflected through them so warm a tint into the fair +<i>fille de chambre’s</i> face,—I thought she +blush’d;—the idea of it made me blush +myself:—we were quite alone; and that superinduced a second +blush before the first could get off.</p> + +<p>There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the +blood is more in fault than the man:—’tis sent +impetuous from the heart, and virtue flies after it,—not to +call it back, but to make the sensation of it more delicious to +the nerves:—’tis associated.—</p> + +<p> +But I’ll not describe it;—I felt something at first +within me which was not in strict unison with the lesson of +virtue I had given her the night before.—I sought five +minutes for a card;—I knew I had not one.—I took up a +pen.—I laid it down again;—my hand +trembled:—the devil was in me.</p> + +<p>I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we +resist, he will fly from us;—but I seldom resist him at +all; from a terror, though I may conquer, I may still get a hurt +in the combat;—so I give up the triumph for security; and, +instead of thinking to make him fly, I generally fly myself.</p> + +<p>The fair <i>fille de chambre</i> came close up to the bureau +where I was looking for a card—took up first the pen I cast +down, then offer’d to hold me the ink; she offer’d it +so sweetly, I was going to accept it;—but I durst +not;—I have nothing, my dear, said I, to write +upon.—Write it, said she, simply, upon anything.—</p> + +<p>I was just going to cry out, Then I will write it, fair girl! +upon thy lips.—</p> + +<p>If I do, said I, I shall perish;—so I took her by the +hand, and led her to the door, and begg’d she would not +forget the lesson I had given her.—She said, indeed she +would not;—and, as she uttered it with some earnestness, +she turn’d about, and gave me both her hands, closed +together, into mine;—it was impossible not to compress them +in that situation;—I wish’d to let them go; and all +the time I held them, I kept arguing within myself against +it,—and still I held them on.—In two minutes I found +I had all the battle to fight over again;—and I felt my +legs and every limb about me tremble at the idea.</p> + +<p>The foot of the bed was within a yard and a half of the place +where we were standing.—I had still hold of her +hands—and how it happened I can give no account; but I +neither ask’d her—nor drew her—nor did I think +of the bed;—but so it did happen, we both sat down.</p> + +<p>I’ll just show you, said the fair <i>fille de +chambre</i>, the little purse I have been making to-day to hold +your crown. So she put her hand into her right pocket, +which was next me, and felt for it some time—then into the +left.—“She had lost it.”—I +never bore expectation more quietly;—it was in her right +pocket at last;—she pull’d it out; it was of green +taffeta, lined with a little bit of white quilted satin, and just +big enough to hold the crown: she put it into my hand;—it +was pretty; and I held it ten minutes with the back of my hand +resting upon her lap—looking sometimes at the purse, +sometimes on one side of it.</p> + +<p>A stitch or two had broke out in the gathers of my stock; the +fair <i>fille de chambre</i>, without saying a word, took out her +little housewife, threaded a small needle, and sew’d it +up.—I foresaw it would hazard the glory of the day; and, as +she pass’d her hand in silence across and across my neck in +the manœuvre, I felt the laurels shake which fancy had +wreath’d about my head.</p> + +<p>A strap had given way in her walk, and the buckle of her shoe +was just falling off.—See, said the <i>fille de +chambre</i>, holding up her foot.—I could not, for my soul +but fasten the buckle in return, and putting in the +strap,—and lifting up the other foot with it, when I had +done, to see both were right,—in doing it too suddenly, it +unavoidably threw the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> off her +centre,—and then—</p> + +<h2>THE CONQUEST.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Yes</span>,—and then—. +Ye whose clay-cold heads and luke-warm hearts can argue down or +mask your passions, tell me, what trespass is it that man should +have them? or how his spirit stands answerable to the Father of +spirits but for his conduct under them?</p> + +<p>If Nature has so wove her web of kindness, that some threads +of love and desire are entangled with the piece,—must the +whole web be rent in drawing them out?—Whip me such stoics, +great Governor of Nature! said I to myself:—wherever thy +providence shall place me for the trials of my +virtue;—whatever is my danger,—whatever is my +situation,—let me feel the movements which rise out of it, +and which belong to me as a man,—and, if I govern them +as a good one, I will trust the issues to thy justice; for thou +hast made us, and not we ourselves.</p> + +<p>As I finished my address, I raised the fair <i>fille de +chambre</i> up by the hand, and led her out of the +room:—she stood by me till I locked the door and put the +key in my pocket,—and then,—the victory being quite +decisive—and not till then, I press’d my lips to her +cheek, and taking her by the hand again, led her safe to the gate +of the hotel.</p> + +<h2>THE MYSTERY.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>If a man knows the heart, he will know it was impossible to go +back instantly to my chamber;—it was touching a cold key +with a flat third to it upon the close of a piece of music, which +had call’d forth my affections:—therefore, when I let +go the hand of the <i>fille de chambre</i>, I remained at the +gate of the hotel for some time, looking at every one who +pass’d by,—and forming conjectures upon them, till my +attention got fix’d upon a single object which confounded +all kind of reasoning upon him.</p> + +<p>It was a tall figure of a philosophic, serious, adust look, +which passed and repass’d sedately along the street, making +a turn of about sixty paces on each side of the gate of the +hotel;—the man was about fifty-two—had a small cane +under his arm—was dress’d in a dark +drab-colour’d coat, waistcoat, and breeches, which +seem’d to have seen some years service:—they were +still clean, and there was a little air of frugal +<i>propreté</i> throughout him. By his pulling off +his hat, and his attitude of accosting a good many in his way, I +saw he was asking charity: so I got a sous or two out of my +pocket ready to give him, as he took me in his turn.—He +pass’d by me without asking anything—and yet did not +go five steps further before he ask’d charity of a little +woman.—I was much more likely to have given of the +two.—He had scarce done with the woman, when he +pull’d off his hat to another who was coming the same +way.—An ancient gentleman came slowly—and, after +him, a young smart one.—He let them both pass, and +ask’d nothing. I stood observing him half an hour, in +which time he had made a dozen turns backwards and forwards, and +found that he invariably pursued the same plan.</p> + +<p>There were two things very singular in this, which set my +brain to work, and to no purpose:—the first was, why the +man should <i>only</i> tell his story to the sex;—and, +secondly,—what kind of story it was, and what species of +eloquence it could be, which soften’d the hearts of the +women, which he knew ’twas to no purpose to practise upon +the men.</p> + +<p>There were two other circumstances, which entangled this +mystery;—the one was, he told every woman what he had to +say in her ear, and in a way which had much more the air of a +secret than a petition;—the other was, it was always +successful.—He never stopp’d a woman, but she +pull’d out her purse, and immediately gave him +something.</p> + +<p>I could form no system to explain the phenomenon.</p> + +<p>I had got a riddle to amuse me for the rest of the evening; so +I walk’d upstairs to my chamber.</p> + +<h2>THE CASE OF CONSCIENCE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">was</span> immediately followed up by +the master of the hotel, who came into my room to tell me I must +provide lodgings elsewhere.—How so, friend? said +I.—He answered, I had had a young woman lock’d up +with me two hours that evening in my bedchamber, and ’twas +against the rules of his house.—Very well, said I, +we’ll all part friends then,—for the girl is no +worse,—and I am no worse,—and you will be just as I +found you.—It was enough, he said, to overthrow the credit +of his hotel.—<i>Voyez vous</i>, Monsieur, said he, +pointing to the foot of the bed we had been sitting upon.—I +own it had something of the appearance of an evidence; but my +pride not suffering me to enter into any detail of the case, I exhorted +him to let his soul sleep in peace, as I resolved to let mine do +that night, and that I would discharge what I owed him at +breakfast.</p> + +<p>I should not have minded, Monsieur, said he, if you had had +twenty girls—’Tis a score more, replied I, +interrupting him, than I ever reckon’d upon—Provided, +added he, it had been but in a morning.—And does the +difference of the time of the day at Paris make a difference in +the sin?—It made a difference, he said, in the +scandal.—I like a good distinction in my heart; and cannot +say I was intolerably out of temper with the man.—I own it +is necessary, resumed the master of the hotel, that a stranger at +Paris should have the opportunities presented to him of buying +lace and silk stockings and ruffles, <i>et tout +cela</i>;—and ’tis nothing if a woman comes with a +band-box.—O, my conscience! said I, she had one but I never +look’d into it.—Then Monsieur, said he, has bought +nothing?—Not one earthly thing, replied I.—Because, +said he, I could recommend one to you who would use you <i>en +conscience</i>.—But I must see her this night, said +I.—He made me a low bow, and walk’d down.</p> + +<p>Now shall I triumph over this <i>maître +d’hôtel</i>, cried I,—and what then? Then +I shall let him see I know he is a dirty fellow.—And what +then? What then?—I was too near myself to say it was +for the sake of others.—I had no good answer +left;—there was more of spleen than principle in my +project, and I was sick of it before the execution.</p> + +<p>In a few minutes the grisette came in with her box of +lace.—I’ll buy nothing, however, said I, within +myself.</p> + +<p>The grisette would show me everything.—I was hard to +please: she would not seem to see it; she opened her little +magazine, and laid all her laces one after another before +me;—unfolded and folded them up again one by one with the +most patient sweetness.—I might buy,—or +not;—she would let me have everything at my own +price:—the poor creature seem’d anxious to get a +penny; and laid herself out to win me, and not so much in a +manner which seem’d artful, as in one I felt simple and +caressing.</p> + +<p>If there is not a fund of honest gullibility in man, so much +the worse;—my heart relented, and I gave up my second +resolution as quietly as the first.—Why should I chastise +one for the trespass of another? If thou art tributary to +this tyrant of an host, thought I, looking up in her face, so +much harder is thy bread.</p> + +<p>If I had not had more than four louis d’ors in my purse, +there was no such thing as rising up and showing her the door, +till I had first laid three of them out in a pair of ruffles.</p> + +<p>—The master of the hotel will share the profit with +her;—no matter,—then I have only paid as many a poor +soul has <i>paid</i> before me, for an act he <i>could</i> not +do, or think of.</p> + +<h2>THE RIDDLE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> La Fleur came up to wait upon +me at supper, he told me how sorry the master of the hotel was +for his affront to me in bidding me change my lodgings.</p> + +<p>A man who values a good night’s rest will not lie down +with enmity in his heart, if he can help it.—So I bid La +Fleur tell the master of the hotel, that I was sorry on my side +for the occasion I had given him;—and you may tell him, if +you will, La Fleur, added I, that if the young woman should call +again, I shall not see her.</p> + +<p>This was a sacrifice not to him, but myself, having resolved, +after so narrow an escape, to run no more risks, but to leave +Paris, if it was possible, with all the virtue I enter’d +it.</p> + +<p><i>C’est déroger à noblesse</i>, +<i>Monsieur</i>, said La Fleur, making me a bow down to the +ground as he said it.—<i>Et encore</i>, <i>Monsieur</i>, +said he, may change his sentiments;—and if (<i>par +hazard</i>) he should like to amuse himself,—I find no +amusement in it, said I, interrupting him.—</p> + +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! said La Fleur,—and took away.</p> + +<p>In an hour’s time he came to put me to bed, and was more +than commonly officious:—something hung upon his lips to +say to me, or ask me, which he could not get off: I could not +conceive what it was, and indeed gave myself little trouble to +find it out, as I had another riddle so much more interesting upon my +mind, which was that of the man’s asking charity before the +door of the hotel.—I would have given anything to have got +to the bottom of it; and that, not out of +curiosity,—’tis so low a principle of enquiry, in +general, I would not purchase the gratification of it with a +two-sous piece;—but a secret, I thought, which so soon and +so certainly soften’d the heart of every woman you came +near, was a secret at least equal to the philosopher’s +stone; had I both the Indies, I would have given up one to have +been master of it.</p> + +<p>I toss’d and turn’d it almost all night long in my +brains to no manner of purpose; and when I awoke in the morning, +I found my spirits as much troubled with my dreams, as ever the +King of Babylon had been with his; and I will not hesitate to +affirm, it would have puzzled all the wise men of Paris as much +as those of Chaldea to have given its interpretation.</p> + +<h2>LE DIMANCHE.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was Sunday; and when La Fleur +came in, in the morning, with my coffee and roll and butter, he +had got himself so gallantly array’d, I scarce knew +him.</p> + +<p>I had covenanted at Montreuil to give him a new hat with a +silver button and loop, and four louis d’ors, <i>pour +s’adoniser</i>, when we got to Paris; and the poor fellow, +to do him justice, had done wonders with it.</p> + +<p>He had bought a bright, clean, good scarlet coat, and a pair +of breeches of the same.—They were not a crown worse, he +said, for the wearing.—I wish’d him hang’d for +telling me.—They look’d so fresh, that though I knew +the thing could not be done, yet I would rather have imposed upon +my fancy with thinking I had bought them new for the fellow, than +that they had come out of the Rue de Friperie.</p> + +<p>This is a nicety which makes not the heart sore at Paris.</p> + +<p> +He had purchased, moreover, a handsome blue satin waistcoat, +fancifully enough embroidered:—this was indeed something +the worse for the service it had done, but ’twas clean +scour’d;—the gold had been touch’d up, and upon +the whole was rather showy than otherwise;—and as the blue +was not violent, it suited with the coat and breeches very well: +he had squeez’d out of the money, moreover, a new bag and a +solitaire; and had insisted with the <i>fripier</i> upon a gold +pair of garters to his breeches knees.—He had purchased +muslin ruffles, <i>bien brodées</i>, with four livres of +his own money;—and a pair of white silk stockings for five +more;—and to top all, nature had given him a handsome +figure, without costing him a sous.</p> + +<p>He entered the room thus set off, with his hair dressed in the +first style, and with a handsome bouquet in his breast.—In +a word, there was that look of festivity in everything about him, +which at once put me in mind it was Sunday;—and, by +combining both together, it instantly struck me, that the favour +he wish’d to ask of me the night before, was to spend the +day as every body in Paris spent it besides. I had scarce +made the conjecture, when La Fleur, with infinite humility, but +with a look of trust, as if I should not refuse him, begg’d +I would grant him the day, <i>pour faire le galant +vis-à-vis de sa maîtresse</i>.</p> + +<p>Now it was the very thing I intended to do myself +vis-à-vis Madame de R—.—I had retained the +remise on purpose for it, and it would not have mortified my +vanity to have had a servant so well dress’d as La Fleur +was, to have got up behind it: I never could have worse spared +him.</p> + +<p>But we must <i>feel</i>, not argue in these +embarrassments.—The sons and daughters of Service part with +liberty, but not with nature, in their contracts; they are flesh +and blood, and have their little vanities and wishes in the midst +of the house of bondage, as well as their task-masters;—no +doubt, they have set their self-denials at a price,—and +their expectations are so unreasonable, that I would often +disappoint them, but that their condition puts it so much in my +power to do it.</p> + +<p><i>Behold</i>,—<i>Behold</i>, <i>I am thy +servant</i>—disarms me at once of the powers of a +master.—</p> + +<p> +Thou shalt go, La Fleur! said I.</p> + +<p>—And what mistress, La Fleur, said I, canst thou have +picked up in so little a time at Paris? La Fleur laid his +hand upon his breast, and said ’twas a <i>petite +demoiselle</i>, at Monsieur le Count de +B—’s.—La Fleur had a heart made for society; +and, to speak the truth of him, let as few occasions slip him as +his master;—so that somehow or other,—but +how,—heaven knows,—he had connected himself with the +demoiselle upon the landing of the staircase, during the time I +was taken up with my passport; and as there was time enough for +me to win the Count to my interest, La Fleur had contrived to +make it do to win the maid to his. The family, it seems, +was to be at Paris that day, and he had made a party with her, +and two or three more of the Count’s household, upon the +boulevards.</p> + +<p>Happy people! that once a week at least are sure to lay down +all your cares together, and dance and sing and sport away the +weights of grievance, which bow down the spirit of other nations +to the earth.</p> + +<h2>THE FRAGMENT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">La Fleur</span> had left me something to +amuse myself with for the day more than I had bargain’d +for, or could have enter’d either into his head or +mine.</p> + +<p>He had brought the little print of butter upon a currant leaf: +and as the morning was warm, and he had a good step to bring it, +he had begg’d a sheet of waste paper to put betwixt the +currant leaf and his hand.—As that was plate sufficient, I +bade him lay it upon the table as it was; and as I resolved to +stay within all day, I ordered him to call upon the +<i>traîteur</i>, to bespeak my dinner, and leave me to +breakfast by myself.</p> + +<p>When I had finished the butter, I threw the currant-leaf out +of the window, and was going to do the same by the waste +paper;—but stopping to read a line first, and that drawing +me on to a second and third,—I thought it better +worth; so I shut the window, and drawing a chair up to it, I sat +down to read it.</p> + +<p>It was in the old French of Rabelais’s time, and for +aught I know might have been wrote by him:—it was moreover +in a Gothic letter, and that so faded and gone off by damps and +length of time, it cost me infinite trouble to make anything of +it.—I threw it down; and then wrote a letter to +Eugenius;—then I took it up again, and embroiled my +patience with it afresh;—and then to cure that, I wrote a +letter to Eliza.—Still it kept hold of me; and the +difficulty of understanding it increased but the desire.</p> + +<p>I got my dinner; and after I had enlightened my mind with a +bottle of Burgundy; I at it again,—and, after two or three +hours poring upon it, with almost as deep attention as ever +Gruter or Jacob Spon did upon a nonsensical inscription, I +thought I made sense of it; but to make sure of it, the best way, +I imagined, was to turn it into English, and see how it would +look then;—so I went on leisurely, as a trifling man does, +sometimes writing a sentence,—then taking a turn or +two,—and then looking how the world went, out of the +window; so that it was nine o’clock at night before I had +done it.—I then began and read it as follows.</p> + +<h2>THE FRAGMENT.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>—<span class="smcap">Now</span>, as the notary’s +wife disputed the point with the notary with too much +heat,—I wish, said the notary, (throwing down the +parchment) that there was another notary here only to set down +and attest all this.—</p> + +<p>—And what would you do then, Monsieur? said she, rising +hastily up.—The notary’s wife was a little fume of a +woman, and the notary thought it well to avoid a hurricane by a +mild reply.—I would go, answered he, to bed.—You may +go to the devil, answer’d the notary’s wife.</p> + +<p>Now there happening to be but one bed in the house, the other +two rooms being unfurnished, as is the custom at Paris, and the +notary not caring to lie in the same bed with a woman who had but +that moment sent him pell mell to the devil, went forth with his +hat and cane and short cloak, the night being very windy, and +walk’d out, ill at ease, towards the Pont Neuf.</p> + +<p>Of all the bridges which ever were built, the whole world who +have pass’d over the Pont Neuf must own, that it is the +noblest,—the finest,—the grandest,—the +lightest,—the longest,—the broadest, that ever +conjoin’d land and land together upon the face of the +terraqueous globe.</p> + +<p style="text-align: center">[<i>By this it seems as if the +author of the fragment had not been a Frenchman</i>.]</p> + +<p>The worst fault which divines and the doctors of the Sorbonne +can allege against it is, that if there is but a capfull of wind +in or about Paris, ’tis more blasphemously <i>sacre +Dieu’d</i> there than in any other aperture of the whole +city,—and with reason good and cogent, Messieurs; for it +comes against you without crying <i>garde d’eau</i>, and +with such unpremeditable puffs, that of the few who cross it with +their hats on, not one in fifty but hazards two livres and a +half, which is its full worth.</p> + +<p>The poor notary, just as he was passing by the sentry, +instinctively clapp’d his cane to the side of it, but in +raising it up, the point of his cane catching hold of the loop of +the sentinel’s hat, hoisted it over the spikes of the +ballustrade clear into the Seine.—</p> + +<p>—’<i>Tis an ill wind</i>, said a boatman, who +catched it, <i>which blows nobody any good</i>.</p> + +<p>The sentry, being a Gascon, incontinently twirled up his +whiskers, and levell’d his arquebuss.</p> + +<p>Arquebusses in those days went off with matches; and an old +woman’s paper lantern at the end of the bridge happening to +be blown out, she had borrow’d the sentry’s match to +light it:—it gave a moment’s time for the +Gascon’s blood to run cool, and turn the accident better to +his advantage.—’<i>Tis an ill wind</i>, said he, +catching off the notary’s castor, and legitimating the +capture with the boatman’s adage.</p> + +<p>The poor notary crossed the bridge, and passing along the Rue de +Dauphine into the fauxbourgs of St. Germain, lamented himself as +he walked along in this manner:—</p> + +<p>Luckless man that I am! said the notary, to be the sport of +hurricanes all my days:—to be born to have the storm of ill +language levell’d against me and my profession wherever I +go; to be forced into marriage by the thunder of the church to a +tempest of a woman;—to be driven forth out of my house by +domestic winds, and despoil’d of my castor by pontific +ones!—to be here, bareheaded, in a windy night, at the +mercy of the ebbs and flows of accidents!—Where am I to lay +my head?—Miserable man! what wind in the two-and-thirty +points of the whole compass can blow unto thee, as it does to the +rest of thy fellow-creatures, good?</p> + +<p>As the notary was passing on by a dark passage, complaining in +this sort, a voice call’d out to a girl, to bid her run for +the next notary.—Now the notary being the next, and +availing himself of his situation, walk’d up the passage to +the door, and passing through an old sort of a saloon, was +usher’d into a large chamber, dismantled of everything but +a long military pike,—a breastplate,—a rusty old +sword, and bandoleer, hung up, equidistant, in four different +places against the wall.</p> + +<p>An old personage who had heretofore been a gentleman, and +unless decay of fortune taints the blood along with it, was a +gentleman at that time, lay supporting his head upon his hand in +his bed; a little table with a taper burning was set close beside +it, and close by the table was placed a chair:—the notary +sat him down in it; and pulling out his inkhorn and a sheet or +two of paper which he had in his pocket, he placed them before +him; and dipping his pen in his ink, and leaning his breast over +the table, he disposed everything to make the gentleman’s +last will and testament.</p> + +<p>Alas! <i>Monsieur le Notaire</i>, said the gentleman, +raising himself up a little, I have nothing to bequeath, which +will pay the expense of bequeathing, except the history of +myself, which I could not die in peace, unless I left it as a +legacy to the world: the profits arising out of it I bequeath to +you for the pains of taking it from me.—It is a story so +uncommon, it must be read by all mankind;—it will make the +fortunes of your house.—The notary dipp’d his pen +into his inkhorn.—Almighty Director of every event in my +life! said the old gentleman, looking up earnestly, and raising +his hands towards heaven,—Thou, whose hand has led me on +through such a labyrinth of strange passages down into this scene +of desolation, assist the decaying memory of an old, infirm, and +broken-hearted man;—direct my tongue by the spirit of thy +eternal truth, that this stranger may set down nought but what is +written in that <span class="smcap">Book</span>, from whose +records, said he, clasping his hands together, I am to be +condemn’d or acquitted!—the notary held up the point +of his pen betwixt the taper and his eye.—</p> + +<p>It is a story, <i>Monsieur le Notaire</i>, said the gentleman, +which will rouse up every affection in nature;—it will kill +the humane, and touch the heart of Cruelty herself with +pity.—</p> + +<p>—The notary was inflamed with a desire to begin, and put +his pen a third time into his ink-horn—and the old +gentleman, turning a little more towards the notary, began to +dictate his story in these words:—</p> + +<p>—And where is the rest of it, La Fleur? said I, as he +just then enter’d the room.</p> + +<h2>THE FRAGMENT, AND THE BOUQUET. <a name="citation648"></a><a +href="#footnote648" class="citation">[648]</a><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> La Fleur came up close to the +table, and was made to comprehend what I wanted, he told me there +were only two other sheets of it, which he had wrapped round the +stalks of a bouquet to keep it together, which he had presented +to the demoiselle upon the boulevards.—Then prithee, La +Fleur, said I, step back to her to the Count de B—’s +hotel, and see if thou canst get it.—There is no doubt of +it, said La Fleur;—and away he flew.</p> + +<p>In a very little time the poor fellow came back quite out of +breath, with deeper marks of disappointment in his looks +than could arise from the simple irreparability of the +fragment. <i>Juste Ciel</i>! in less than two minutes that +the poor fellow had taken his last tender farewell of +her—his faithless mistress had given his <i>gage +d’amour</i> to one of the Count’s footmen,—the +footman to a young sempstress,—and the sempstress to a +fiddler, with my fragment at the end of it.—Our misfortunes +were involved together:—I gave a sigh,—and La Fleur +echoed it back again to my ear.</p> + +<p>—How perfidious! cried La Fleur.—How unlucky! said +I.</p> + +<p>—I should not have been mortified, Monsieur, quoth La +Fleur, if she had lost it.—Nor I, La Fleur, said I, had I +found it.</p> + +<p>Whether I did or no will be seen hereafter.</p> + +<h2>THE ACT OF CHARITY.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> man who either disdains or +fears to walk up a dark entry may be an excellent good man, and +fit for a hundred things, but he will not do to make a good +Sentimental Traveller.—I count little of the many things I +see pass at broad noonday, in large and open +streets.—Nature is shy, and hates to act before spectators; +but in such an unobserved corner you sometimes see a single short +scene of hers worth all the sentiments of a dozen French plays +compounded together,—and yet they are absolutely +fine;—and whenever I have a more brilliant affair upon my +hands than common, as they suit a preacher just as well as a +hero, I generally make my sermon out of ’em;—and for +the text,—“Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, Phrygia and +Pamphylia,”—is as good as any one in the Bible.</p> + +<p>There is a long dark passage issuing out from the Opera +Comique into a narrow street; ’tis trod by a few who humbly +wait for a <i>fiacre</i>, <a name="citation649"></a><a +href="#footnote649" class="citation">[649]</a> or wish to get off +quietly o’foot when the opera is done. At the end +of it, towards the theatre, ’tis lighted by a small candle, +the light of which is almost lost before you get half-way down, +but near the door—’tis more for ornament than use: +you see it as a fixed star of the least magnitude; it +burns,—but does little good to the world, that we know +of.</p> + +<p>In returning along this passage, I discerned, as I approached +within five or six paces of the door, two ladies standing +arm-in-arm with their backs against the wall, waiting, as I +imagined, for a <i>fiacre</i>;—as they were next the door, +I thought they had a prior right; so edged myself up within a +yard or little more of them, and quietly took my stand.—I +was in black, and scarce seen.</p> + +<p>The lady next me was a tall lean figure of a woman, of about +thirty-six; the other of the same size and make, of about forty: +there was no mark of wife or widow in any one part of either of +them;—they seem’d to be two upright vestal sisters, +unsapped by caresses, unbroke in upon by tender +salutations.—I could have wish’d to have made them +happy:—their happiness was destin’d that night, to +come from another quarter.</p> + +<p>A low voice, with a good turn of expression, and sweet cadence +at the end of it, begg’d for a twelve-sous piece betwixt +them, for the love of heaven. I thought it singular that a +beggar should fix the quota of an alms—and that the sum +should be twelve times as much as what is usually given in the +dark.—They both seemed astonished at it as much as +myself.—Twelve sous! said one.—A twelve-sous piece! +said the other,—and made no reply.</p> + +<p>The poor man said, he knew not how to ask less of ladies of +their rank; and bow’d down his head to the ground.</p> + +<p>Poo! said they,—we have no money.</p> + +<p>The beggar remained silent for a moment or two, and +renew’d his supplication.</p> + +<p>—Do not, my fair young ladies, said he, stop your good +ears against me.—Upon my word, honest man! said the +younger, we have no change.—Then God bless you, said the +poor man, and multiply those joys which you can give to others +without change!—I observed the elder sister put her hand +into her pocket.—I’ll see, said she, if I have a +sous. A sous! give twelve, said the supplicant; Nature has +been bountiful to you, be bountiful to a poor man.</p> + +<p>—I would friend, with all my heart, said the younger, if +I had it.</p> + +<p>My fair charitable! said he, addressing himself to the +elder,—what is it but your goodness and humanity which +makes your bright eyes so sweet, that they outshine the morning +even in this dark passage? and what was it which made the Marquis +de Santerre and his brother say so much of you both as they just +passed by?</p> + +<p>The two ladies seemed much affected; and impulsively, at the +same time they both put their hands into their pocket, and each +took out a twelve-sous piece.</p> + +<p>The contest betwixt them and the poor supplicant was no +more;—it was continued betwixt themselves, which of the two +should give the twelve-sous piece in charity;—and, to end +the dispute, they both gave it together, and the man went +away.</p> + +<h2>THE RIDDLE EXPLAINED.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PARIS.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">stepped</span> hastily after him: it was +the very man whose success in asking charity of the women before +the door of the hotel had so puzzled me;—and I found at +once his secret, or at least the basis of it:—’twas +flattery.</p> + +<p>Delicious essence! how refreshing art thou to Nature! how +strongly are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side! +how sweetly dost thou mix with the blood, and help it through the +most difficult and tortuous passages to the heart!</p> + +<p>The poor man, as he was not straiten’d for time, had +given it here in a larger dose: ’tis certain he had a way +of bringing it into a less form, for the many sudden cases he had +to do with in the streets: but how he contrived to correct, +sweeten, concentre, and qualify it,—I vex not my spirit +with the enquiry;—it is enough the beggar gained two +twelve-sous pieces—and they can best tell the rest, who +have gained much greater matters by it.</p> + +<h2>PARIS.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> get forwards in the world, not +so much by doing services, as receiving them; you take a +withering twig, and put it in the ground; and then you water it, +because you have planted it.</p> + +<p>Monsieur le Count de B—, merely because he had done me +one kindness in the affair of my passport, would go on and do me +another, the few days he was at Paris, in making me known to a +few people of rank; and they were to present me to others, and so +on.</p> + +<p>I had got master of my <i>secret</i> just in time to turn +these honours to some little account; otherwise, as is commonly +the case, I should have dined or supp’d a single time or +two round, and then, by <i>translating</i> French looks and +attitudes into plain English, I should presently have seen, that +I had hold of the <i>couvert</i> <a name="citation652"></a><a +href="#footnote652" class="citation">[652]</a> of some more +entertaining guest; and in course should have resigned all my +places one after another, merely upon the principle that I could +not keep them.—As it was, things did not go much amiss.</p> + +<p>I had the honour of being introduced to the old Marquis de +B—: in days of yore he had signalized himself by some small +feats of chivalry in the <i>Cour d’Amour</i>, and had +dress’d himself out to the idea of tilts and tournaments +ever since.—The Marquis de B— wish’d to have it +thought the affair was somewhere else than in his brain. +“He could like to take a trip to England,” and asked +much of the English ladies.—Stay where you are, I beseech +you, Monsieur le Marquis, said I.—<i>Les Messieurs +Anglois</i> can scarce get a kind look from them as it +is.—The Marquis invited me to supper.</p> + +<p>Monsieur P—, the farmer-general, was just as inquisitive +about our taxes. They were very considerable, he +heard.—If we knew but how to collect them, said +I, making him a low bow.</p> + +<p>I could never have been invited to Mons. P—’s +concerts upon any other terms.</p> + +<p>I had been misrepresented to Madame de Q— as an +<i>esprit</i>.—Madame de Q— was an <i>esprit</i> +herself: she burnt with impatience to see me, and hear me +talk. I had not taken my seat, before I saw she did not +care a sous whether I had any wit or no;—I was let in, to +be convinced she had. I call heaven to witness I never once +opened the door of my lips.</p> + +<p>Madame de V— vow’d to every creature she +met—“She had never had a more improving conversation +with a man in her life.”</p> + +<p>There are three epochas in the empire of a French +woman.—She is coquette,—then deist,—then +<i>dévote</i>: the empire during these is never +lost,—she only changes her subjects when thirty-five years +and more have unpeopled her dominion of the slaves of love, she +re-peoples it with slaves of infidelity,—and then with the +slaves of the church.</p> + +<p>Madame de V— was vibrating betwixt the first of those +epochas: the colour of the rose was fading fast away;—she +ought to have been a deist five years before the time I had the +honour to pay my first visit.</p> + +<p>She placed me upon the same sofa with her, for the sake of +disputing the point of religion more closely.—In short +Madame de V— told me she believed nothing.—I told +Madame de V— it might be her principle, but I was sure it +could not be her interest to level the outworks, without which I +could not conceive how such a citadel as hers could be +defended;—that there was not a more dangerous thing in the +world than for a beauty to be a deist;—that it was a debt I +owed my creed not to conceal it from her;—that I had not +been five minutes sat upon the sofa beside her, but I had begun +to form designs;—and what is it, but the sentiments of +religion, and the persuasion they had excited in her breast, +which could have check’d them as they rose up?</p> + +<p>We are not adamant, said I, taking hold of her hand;—and +there is need of all restraints, till age in her own time steals +in and lays them on us.—But my dear lady, said I, kissing +her hand,—’tis too—too soon.</p> + +<p>I declare I had the credit all over Paris of unperverting +Madame de V—.—She affirmed to Monsieur D— and +the Abbé M—, that in one half hour I had said more +for revealed religion, than all their Encyclopædia had said +against it.—I was listed directly into Madame de +V—’s <i>coterie</i>;—and she put off the epocha +of deism for two years.</p> + +<p>I remember it was in this <i>coterie</i>, in the middle of a +discourse, in which I was showing the necessity of a <i>first</i> +cause, when the young Count de Faineant took me by the hand to +the farthest corner of the room, to tell me my <i>solitaire</i> +was pinn’d too straight about my neck.—It should be +<i>plus badinant</i>, said the Count, looking down upon his +own;—but a word, Monsieur Yorick, <i>to the +wise</i>—</p> + +<p>And <i>from the wise</i>, Monsieur le Count, replied I, making +him a bow,—<i>is enough</i>.</p> + +<p>The Count de Faineant embraced me with more ardour than ever I +was embraced by mortal man.</p> + +<p>For three weeks together I was of every man’s opinion I +met.—<i>Pardi</i>! <i>ce Monsieur Yorick a autant +d’esprit que nous autres</i>.—<i>Il raisonne +bien</i>, said another.—<i>C’est un bon enfant</i>, +said a third.—And at this price I could have eaten and +drank and been merry all the days of my life at Paris; but +’twas a dishonest <i>reckoning</i>;—I grew ashamed of +it.—It was the gain of a slave;—every sentiment of +honour revolted against it;—the higher I got, the more was +I forced upon my <i>beggarly system</i>;—the better the +<i>coterie</i>,—the more children of Art;—I +languish’d for those of Nature: and one night, after a most +vile prostitution of myself to half a dozen different people, I +grew sick,—went to bed;—order’d La Fleur to get +me horses in the morning to set out for Italy.</p> + +<h2>MARIA.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">MOULINES.</span></h2> + +<p>I <span class="smcap">never</span> felt what the distress of +plenty was in any one shape till now,—to travel it through +the Bourbonnois, the sweetest part of France,—in the heyday +of the vintage, when Nature is pouring her abundance into every +one’s lap, and every eye is lifted up,—a journey, +through each step of which Music beats time to <i>Labour</i>, and +all her children are rejoicing as they carry in their clusters: +to pass through this with my affections flying out, and kindling +at every group before me,—and every one of them was +pregnant with adventures.—</p> + +<p>Just heaven!—it would fill up twenty volumes;—and +alas! I have but a few small pages left of this to crowd it +into,—and half of these must be taken up with the poor +Maria my friend, Mr. Shandy, met with near Moulines.</p> + +<p>The story he had told of that disordered maid affected me not +a little in the reading; but when I got within the neighbourhood +where she lived, it returned so strong into the mind, that I +could not resist an impulse which prompted me to go half a league +out of the road, to the village where her parents dwelt, to +enquire after her.</p> + +<p>’Tis going, I own, like the Knight of the Woeful +Countenance in quest of melancholy adventures. But I know +not how it is, but I am never so perfectly conscious of the +existence of a soul within me, as when I am entangled in +them.</p> + +<p>The old mother came to the door; her looks told me the story +before she open’d her mouth.—She had lost her +husband; he had died, she said, of anguish, for the loss of +Maria’s senses, about a month before.—She had feared +at first, she added, that it would have plunder’d her poor +girl of what little understanding was left;—but, on the +contrary, it had brought her more to herself:—still, she +could not rest.—Her poor daughter, she said, crying, was +wandering somewhere about the road.</p> + +<p>Why does my pulse beat languid as I write this? and what made +La Fleur, whose heart seem’d only to be tuned to joy, to +pass the back of his hand twice across his eyes, as the woman +stood and told it? I beckoned to the postilion to turn back +into the road.</p> + +<p>When we had got within half a league of Moulines, at a little +opening in the road leading to a thicket, I discovered poor Maria +sitting under a poplar. She was sitting with her elbow in +her lap, and her head leaning on one side within her +hand:—a small brook ran at the foot of the tree.</p> + +<p>I bid the postilion go on with the chaise to +Moulines—and La Fleur to bespeak my supper;—and that +I would walk after him.</p> + +<p>She was dress’d in white, and much as my friend +described her, except that her hair hung loose, which before was +twisted within a silk net.—She had superadded likewise to +her jacket, a pale green riband, which fell across her shoulder +to the waist; at the end of which hung her pipe.—Her goat +had been as faithless as her lover; and she had got a little dog +in lieu of him, which she had kept tied by a string to her +girdle: as I looked at her dog, she drew him towards her with the +string.—“Thou shalt not leave me, Sylvio,” said +she. I look’d in Maria’s eyes and saw she was +thinking more of her father than of her lover, or her little +goat; for, as she utter’d them, the tears trickled down her +cheeks.</p> + +<p>I sat down close by her; and Maria let me wipe them away as +they fell, with my handkerchief.—I then steep’d it in +my own,—and then in hers,—and then in mine,—and +then I wip’d hers again;—and as I did it, I felt such +undescribable emotions within me, as I am sure could not be +accounted for from any combinations of matter and motion.</p> + +<p>I am positive I have a soul; nor can all the books with which +materialists have pester’d the world ever convince me to +the contrary.</p> + +<h2>MARIA.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> Maria had come a little to +herself, I ask’d her if she remembered a pale thin person +of a man, who had sat down betwixt her and her goat about two +years before? She said she was unsettled much at +that time, but remembered it upon two accounts:—that ill as +she was, she saw the person pitied her; and next, that her goat +had stolen his handkerchief, and she had beat him for the +theft;—she had wash’d it, she said, in the brook, and +kept it ever since in her pocket to restore it to him in case she +should ever see him again, which, she added, he had half promised +her. As she told me this, she took the handkerchief out of +her pocket to let me see it; she had folded it up neatly in a +couple of vine leaves, tied round with a tendril;—on +opening it, I saw an S. marked in one of the corners.</p> + +<p>She had since that, she told me, stray’d as far as Rome, +and walk’d round St. Peter’s once,—and +return’d back;—that she found her way alone across +the Apennines;—had travell’d over all Lombardy, +without money,—and through the flinty roads of Savoy +without shoes:—how she had borne it, and how she had got +supported, she could not tell;—but <i>God tempers the +wind</i>, said Maria, <i>to the shorn lamb</i>.</p> + +<p>Shorn indeed! and to the quick, said I: and wast thou in my +own land, where I have a cottage, I would take thee to it, and +shelter thee: thou shouldst eat of my own bread and drink of my +own cup;—I would be kind to thy Sylvio;—in all thy +weaknesses and wanderings I would seek after thee and bring thee +back;—when the sun went down I would say my prayers: and +when I had done thou shouldst play thy evening song upon thy +pipe, nor would the incense of my sacrifice be worse accepted for +entering heaven along with that of a broken heart!</p> + +<p>Nature melted within me, as I utter’d this; and Maria +observing, as I took out my handkerchief, that it was +steep’d too much already to be of use, would needs go wash +it in the stream.—And where will you dry it, Maria? said +I.—I’ll dry it in my bosom, said +she:—’twill do me good.</p> + +<p>And is your heart still so warm, Maria? said I.</p> + +<p>I touch’d upon the string on which hung all her +sorrows:—she look’d with wistful disorder for some +time in my face; and then, without saying any thing, took her +pipe and play’d her service to the Virgin.—The string +I had touched ceased to vibrate;—in a moment or two +Maria returned to herself,—let her pipe fall,—and +rose up.</p> + +<p>And where are you going, Maria? said I.—She said, to +Moulines.—Let us go, said I, together.—Maria put her +arm within mine, and lengthening the string, to let the dog +follow,—in that order we enter’d Moulines.</p> + +<h2>MARIA.<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">MOULINES.</span></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">Though</span> I hate salutations and +greetings in the market-place, yet, when we got into the middle +of this, I stopp’d to take my last look and last farewell +of Maria.</p> + +<p>Maria, though not tall, was nevertheless of the first order of +fine forms:—affliction had touched her looks with something +that was scarce earthly;—still she was feminine;—and +so much was there about her of all that the heart wishes, or the +eye looks for in woman, that could the traces be ever worn out of +her brain, and those of Eliza out of mine, she should <i>not only +eat of my bread and drink of my own cup</i>, but Maria should lie +in my bosom, and be unto me as a daughter.</p> + +<p>Adieu, poor luckless maiden!—Imbibe the oil and wine +which the compassion of a stranger, as he journeyeth on his way, +now pours into thy wounds;—the Being, who has twice bruised +thee, can only bind them up for ever.</p> + +<h2>THE BOURBONNNOIS.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> was nothing from which I had +painted out for my self so joyous a riot of the affections, as in +this journey in the vintage, through this part of France; but +pressing through this gate, of sorrow to it, my sufferings have +totally unfitted me. In every scene of festivity, I saw +Maria in the background of the piece, sitting pensive under her +poplar; and I had got almost to Lyons before I was able to cast a +shade across her.</p> + +<p>—Dear Sensibility! source inexhausted of all +that’s precious in our joys, or costly in our sorrows! thou +chainest thy martyr down upon his bed of straw—and +’tis thou who lift’st him up to Heaven!—Eternal +Fountain of our feelings!—’tis here I trace +thee—and this is thy “<i>divinity which stirs within +me</i>;”—not that, in some sad and sickening moments, +“<i>my soul shrinks back upon herself</i>, <i>and startles +at destruction</i>;”—mere pomp of words!—but +that I feel some generous joys and generous cares beyond +myself;—all comes from thee, great—great <span +class="smcap">Sensorium</span> of the world! which vibrates, if a +hair of our heads but falls upon the ground, in the remotest +desert of thy creation.—Touch’d with thee, Eugenius +draws my curtain when I languish—hears my tale of symptoms, +and blames the weather for the disorder of his nerves. Thou +giv’st a portion of it sometimes to the roughest peasant +who traverses the bleakest mountains;—he finds the +lacerated lamb of another’s flock.—This moment I +behold him leaning with his head against his crook, with piteous +inclination looking down upon it!—Oh! had I come one moment +sooner! it bleeds to death!—his gentle heart bleeds with +it.—</p> + +<p>Peace to thee, generous swain!—I see thou walkest off +with anguish,—but thy joys shall balance it;—for, +happy is thy cottage,—and happy is the sharer of +it,—and happy are the lambs which sport about you!</p> + +<h2>THE SUPPER.</h2> + +<p>A <span class="smcap">shoe</span> coming loose from the fore +foot of the thill-horse, at the beginning of the ascent of mount +Taurira, the postilion dismounted, twisted the shoe off, and put +it in his pocket; as the ascent was of five or six miles, and +that horse our main dependence, I made a point of having the shoe +fastened on again, as well as we could; but the postilion had +thrown away the nails, and the hammer in the chaise box being of +no great use without them, I submitted to go on.</p> + +<p>He had not mounted half a mile higher, when, coming to a flinty +piece of road, the poor devil lost a second shoe, and from off +his other fore foot. I then got out of the chaise in good +earnest; and seeing a house about a quarter of a mile to the left +hand, with a great deal to do I prevailed upon the postilion to +turn up to it. The look of the house, and of every thing +about it, as we drew nearer, soon reconciled me to the +disaster.—It was a little farm-house, surrounded with about +twenty acres of vineyard, about as much corn;—and close to +the house, on one side, was a <i>potagerie</i> of an acre and a +half, full of everything which could make plenty in a French +peasant’s house;—and, on the other side, was a little +wood, which furnished wherewithal to dress it. It was about +eight in the evening when I got to the house—so I left the +postilion to manage his point as he could;—and, for mine, I +walked directly into the house.</p> + +<p>The family consisted of an old grey-headed man and his wife, +with five or six sons and sons-in-law, and their several wives, +and a joyous genealogy out of them.</p> + +<p>They were all sitting down together to their lentil-soup; a +large wheaten loaf was in the middle of the table; and a flagon +of wine at each end of it promised joy through the stages of the +repast:—’twas a feast of love.</p> + +<p>The old man rose up to meet me, and with a respectful +cordiality would have me sit down at the table; my heart was set +down the moment I enter’d the room; so I sat down at once +like a son of the family; and to invest myself in the character +as speedily as I could, I instantly borrowed the old man’s +knife, and taking up the loaf, cut myself a hearty luncheon; and, +as I did it, I saw a testimony in every eye, not only of an +honest welcome, but of a welcome mix’d with thanks that I +had not seem’d to doubt it.</p> + +<p>Was it this? or tell me, Nature, what else it was that made +this morsel so sweet,—and to what magic I owe it, that the +draught I took of their flagon was so delicious with it, that +they remain upon my palate to this hour?</p> + +<p>If the supper was to my taste,—the grace which followed +it was much more so.</p> + +<h2>THE GRACE.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> supper was over, the old man +gave a knock upon the table with the haft of his knife, to bid +them prepare for the dance: the moment the signal was given, the +women and girls ran altogether into a back apartment to tie up +their hair,—and the young men to the door to wash their +faces, and change their sabots; and in three minutes every soul +was ready upon a little esplanade before the house to +begin.—The old man and his wife came out last, and placing +me betwixt them, sat down upon a sofa of turf by the door.</p> + +<p>The old man had some fifty years ago been no mean performer +upon the <i>vielle</i>,—and at the age he was then of, +touch’d it well enough for the purpose. His wife sung +now and then a little to the tune,—then +intermitted,—and join’d her old man again, as their +children and grand-children danced before them.</p> + +<p>It was not till the middle of the second dance, when, from +some pauses in the movements, wherein they all seemed to look up, +I fancied I could distinguish an elevation of spirit different +from that which is the cause or the effect of simple +jollity. In a word, I thought I beheld <i>Religion</i> +mixing in the dance:—but, as I had never seen her so +engaged, I should have look’d upon it now as one of the +illusions of an imagination which is eternally misleading me, had +not the old man, as soon as the dance ended, said, that this was +their constant way; and that all his life long he had made it a +rule, after supper was over, to call out his family to dance and +rejoice; believing, he said, that a cheerful and contented mind +was the best sort of thanks to heaven that an illiterate peasant +could pay,—</p> + +<p>Or a learned prelate either, said I.</p> + +<h2>THE CASE OF DELICACY.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> you have gained the top of +Mount Taurira, you run presently down to Lyons:—adieu, +then, to all rapid movements! ’Tis a journey of +caution; and it fares better with sentiments, not to be in a +hurry with them; so I contracted with a <i>voiturin</i> to take his time +with a couple of mules, and convoy me in my own chaise safe to +Turin, through Savoy.</p> + +<p>Poor, patient, quiet, honest people! fear not: your poverty, +the treasury of your simple virtues, will not be envied you by +the world, nor will your valleys be invaded by it.—Nature! +in the midst of thy disorders, thou art still friendly to the +scantiness thou hast created: with all thy great works about +thee, little hast thou left to give, either to the scythe or to +the sickle;—but to that little thou grantest safety and +protection; and sweet are the dwellings which stand so +shelter’d.</p> + +<p>Let the way-worn traveller vent his complaints upon the sudden +turns and dangers of your roads,—your rocks,—your +precipices;—the difficulties of getting up,—the +horrors of getting down,—mountains impracticable,—and +cataracts, which roll down great stones from their summits, and +block his road up.—The peasants had been all day at work in +removing a fragment of this kind between St. Michael and Madane; +and, by the time my <i>voiturin</i> got to the place, it wanted full two +hours of completing before a passage could any how be +gain’d: there was nothing but to wait with +patience;—’twas a wet and tempestuous night; so that +by the delay, and that together, the <i>voiturin</i> found himself +obliged to put up five miles short of his stage at a little +decent kind of an inn by the roadside.</p> + +<p>I forthwith took possession of my bedchamber—got a good +fire—order’d supper; and was thanking heaven it was +no worse, when a <i>voiturin</i> arrived with a lady in it and her +servant maid.</p> + +<p>As there was no other bed-chamber in the house, the +hostess,—without much nicety, led them into mine, telling +them, as she usher’d them in, that there was nobody in it +but an English gentleman;—that there were two good beds in it, and +a closet within the room which held another. The accent in +which she spoke of this third bed, did not say much for +it;—however, she said there were three beds and but three +people, and she durst say, the gentleman would do anything to +accommodate matters.—I left not the lady a moment to make a +conjecture about it—so instantly made a declaration that I +would do anything in my power.</p> + +<p>As this did not amount to an absolute surrender of my +bed-chamber, I still felt myself so much the proprietor, as to +have a right to do the honours of it;—so I desired the lady +to sit down,—pressed her into the warmest +seat,—called for more wood,—desired the hostess to +enlarge the plan of the supper, and to favour us with the very +best wine.</p> + +<p>The lady had scarce warm’d herself five minutes at the +fire, before she began to turn her head back, and give a look at +the beds; and the oftener she cast her eyes that way, the more +they return’d perplexd;—I felt for her—and for +myself: for in a few minutes, what by her looks, and the case +itself, I found myself as much embarrassed as it was possible the +lady could be herself.</p> + +<p>That the beds we were to lie in were in one and the same room, +was enough simply by itself to have excited all this;—but +the position of them, for they stood parallel, and so very close +to each other as only to allow space for a small wicker chair +betwixt them, rendered the affair still more oppressive to +us;—they were fixed up moreover near the fire; and the +projection of the chimney on one side, and a large beam which +cross’d the room on the other, formed a kind of recess for +them that was no way favourable to the nicety of our +sensations:—if anything could have added to it, it was that +the two beds were both of them so very small, as to cut us off +from every idea of the lady and the maid lying together; which in +either of them, could it have been feasible, my lying beside +them, though a thing not to be wish’d, yet there was +nothing in it so terrible which the imagination might not have +pass’d over without torment.</p> + +<p>As for the little room within, it offer’d little or no +consolation to us: ’twas a damp, cold closet, with a half +dismantled window-shutter, and with a window which had neither +glass nor oil paper in it to keep out the tempest of the +night. I did not endeavour to stifle my cough when the lady +gave a peep into it; so it reduced the case in course to this +alternative—That the lady should sacrifice her health to +her feelings, and take up with the closet herself, and abandon +the bed next mine to her maid,—or that the girl should take +the closet, &c., &c.</p> + +<p>The lady was a Piedmontese of about thirty, with a glow of +health in her cheeks. The maid was a Lyonoise of twenty, +and as brisk and lively a French girl as ever moved.—There +were difficulties every way,—and the obstacle of the stone +in the road, which brought us into the distress, great as it +appeared whilst the peasants were removing it, was but a pebble +to what lay in our ways now.—I have only to add, that it +did not lessen the weight which hung upon our spirits, that we +were both too delicate to communicate what we felt to each other +upon the occasion.</p> + +<p>We sat down to supper; and had we not had more generous wine +to it than a little inn in Savoy could have furnish’d, our +tongues had been tied up, till necessity herself had set them at +liberty;—but the lady having a few bottles of Burgundy in +her voiture, sent down her <i>fille de chambre</i> for a couple +of them; so that by the time supper was over, and we were left +alone, we felt ourselves inspired with a strength of mind +sufficient to talk, at least, without reserve upon our +situation. We turn’d it every way, and debated and +considered it in all kinds of lights in the course of a two +hours’ negotiation; at the end of which the articles were +settled finally betwixt us, and stipulated for in form and manner +of a treaty of peace,—and I believe with as much religion +and good faith on both sides as in any treaty which has yet had +the honour of being handed down to posterity.</p> + +<p>They were as follow:—</p> + +<p>First, as the right of the bed-chamber is in +Monsieur,—and he thinking the bed next to the fire to be +the warmest, he insists upon the concession on the lady’s +side of taking up with it.</p> + +<p>Granted, on the part of Madame; with a proviso, That as +the curtains of that bed are of a flimsy transparent cotton, and +appear likewise too scanty to draw close, that the <i>fille de +chambre</i> shall fasten up the opening, either by corking pins, +or needle and thread, in such manner as shall be deem’d a +sufficient barrier on the side of Monsieur.</p> + +<p>2dly. It is required on the part of Madame, that +Monsieur shall lie the whole night through in his <i>robe de +chambre</i>.</p> + +<p>Rejected: inasmuch as Monsieur is not worth a <i>robe de +chambre</i>; he having nothing in his portmanteau but six shirts +and a black silk pair of breeches.</p> + +<p>The mentioning the silk pair of breeches made an entire change +of the article,—for the breeches were accepted as an +equivalent for the <i>robe de chambre</i>; and so it was +stipulated and agreed upon, that I should lie in my black silk +breeches all night.</p> + +<p>3dly. It was insisted upon and stipulated for by the +lady, that after Monsieur was got to bed, and the candle and fire +extinguished, that Monsieur should not speak one single word the +whole night.</p> + +<p>Granted; provided Monsieur’s saying his prayers might +not be deemed an infraction of the treaty.</p> + +<p>There was but one point forgot in this treaty, and that was +the manner in which the lady and myself should be obliged to +undress and get to bed;—there was but one way of doing it, +and that I leave to the reader to devise; protesting as I do it, +that if it is not the most delicate in nature, ’tis the +fault of his own imagination,—against which this is not my +first complaint.</p> + +<p>Now, when we were got to bed, whether it was the novelty of +the situation, or what it was, I know not; but so it was, I could +not shut my eyes; I tried this side, and that, and turn’d +and turn’d again, till a full hour after midnight; when +Nature and patience both wearing out,—O, my God! said +I.</p> + +<p>—You have broke the treaty, Monsieur, said the lady, who +had no more slept than myself.—I begg’d a thousand +pardons—but insisted it was no more than an +ejaculation. She maintained ’twas an entire +infraction of the treaty—I maintain’d it was provided +for in the clause of the third article.</p> + +<p>The lady would by no means give up her point, though she +weaken’d her barrier by it; for in the warmth of the +dispute, I could hear two or three corking pins fall out of the +curtain to the ground.</p> + +<p>Upon my word and honour, Madame, said I,—stretching my +arm out of bed by way of asseveration.—</p> + +<p>(I was going to have added, that I would not have trespassed +against the remotest idea of decorum for the world);—</p> + +<p>But the <i>fille de chambre</i> hearing there were words +between us, and fearing that hostilities would ensue in course, +had crept silently out of her closet, and it being totally dark, +had stolen so close to our beds, that she had got herself into +the narrow passage which separated them, and had advanced so far +up as to be in a line betwixt her mistress and me:—</p> + +<p>So that when I stretch’d out my hand I caught hold of +the <i>fille de chambre’s</i>—</p> + + +<p style="text-align: center"><b>THE END</b></p> + +<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2> + +<p><a name="footnote557"></a><a href="#citation557" +class="footnote">[557]</a> All the effects of strangers +(Swiss and Scotch excepted) dying in France, are seized by virtue +of this law, though the heir be upon the spot—the profit of +these contingencies being farmed, there is no redress.</p> + +<p><a name="footnote562"></a><a href="#citation562" +class="footnote">[562]</a> A chaise, so called, in France, +from its holding but one person.</p> + +<p><a name="footnote580"></a><a href="#citation580" +class="footnote">[580]</a> Vide S—’s Travels: +[<i>i.e.</i> Dr. Smollett’s “Travels through France +and Italy.”—<span class="smcap">Ed</span>.]</p> + +<p><a name="footnote588"></a><a href="#citation588" +class="footnote">[588]</a> Post-horse.</p> + +<p><a name="footnote648"></a><a href="#citation648" +class="footnote">[648]</a> Nosegay.</p> + +<p><a name="footnote649"></a><a href="#citation649" +class="footnote">[649]</a> Hackney coach.</p> + +<p><a name="footnote652"></a><a href="#citation652" +class="footnote">[652]</a> Plate, napkin, knife, fork and +spoon.</p> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +A Sentimental Journey by Laurence Sterne +Scanned and proofed by David Price +ccx074@coventry.ac.uk + + + +This is version senjr09 because all the italicized words in the +text are still CAPITALIZED, and we hope to leave only the words +capitialized that were for EMPHASIS in senjr10. . .Michael Hart + + + + + +A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY + + + + +THEY order, said I, this matter better in France. - You have been +in France? said my gentleman, turning quick upon me, with the most +civil triumph in the world. - Strange! quoth I, debating the matter +with myself, That one and twenty miles sailing, for 'tis absolutely +no further from Dover to Calais, should give a man these rights: - +I'll look into them: so, giving up the argument, - I went straight +to my lodgings, put up half a dozen shirts and a black pair of silk +breeches, - "the coat I have on," said I, looking at the sleeve, +"will do;" - took a place in the Dover stage; and the packet +sailing at nine the next morning, - by three I had got sat down to +my dinner upon a fricaseed chicken, so incontestably in France, +that had I died that night of an indigestion, the whole world could +not have suspended the effects of the DROITS D'AUBAINE; - my +shirts, and black pair of silk breeches, - portmanteau and all, +must have gone to the King of France; - even the little picture +which I have so long worn, and so often have told thee, Eliza, I +would carry with me into my grave, would have been torn from my +neck! - Ungenerous! to seize upon the wreck of an unwary passenger, +whom your subjects had beckoned to their coast! - By heaven! Sire, +it is not well done; and much does it grieve me, 'tis the monarch +of a people so civilized and courteous, and so renowned for +sentiment and fine feelings, that I have to reason with! - + +But I have scarce set a foot in your dominions. - + + +CALAIS. + + +WHEN I had fished my dinner, and drank the King of France's health, +to satisfy my mind that I bore him no spleen, but, on the contrary, +high honour for the humanity of his temper, - I rose up an inch +taller for the accommodation. + +- No - said I - the Bourbon is by no means a cruel race: they may +be misled, like other people; but there is a mildness in their +blood. As I acknowledged this, I felt a suffusion of a finer kind +upon my cheek - more warm and friendly to man, than what Burgundy +(at least of two livres a bottle, which was such as I had been +drinking) could have produced. + +- Just God! said I, kicking my portmanteau aside, what is there in +this world's goods which should sharpen our spirits, and make so +many kind-hearted brethren of us fall out so cruelly as we do by +the way? + +When man is at peace with man, how much lighter than a feather is +the heaviest of metals in his hand! he pulls out his purse, and +holding it airily and uncompressed, looks round him, as if he +sought for an object to share it with. - In doing this, I felt +every vessel in my frame dilate, - the arteries beat all cheerily +together, and every power which sustained life, performed it with +so little friction, that 'twould have confounded the most PHYSICAL +PRECIEUSE in France; with all her materialism, she could scarce +have called me a machine. - + +I'm confident, said I to myself, I should have overset her creed. + +The accession of that idea carried nature, at that time, as high as +she could go; - I was at peace with the world before, and this +finish'd the treaty with myself. - + +- Now, was I King of France, cried I - what a moment for an orphan +to have begg'd his father's portmanteau of me! + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +I HAD scarce uttered the words, when a poor monk of the order of +St. Francis came into the room to beg something for a his convent. +No man cares to have his virtues the sport of contingencies - or +one man may be generous, as another is puissant; - SED NON QUOAD +HANC - or be it as it may, - for there is no regular reasoning upon +the ebbs and flows of our humours; they may depend upon the same +causes, for aught I know, which influence the tides themselves: +'twould oft be no discredit to us, to suppose it was so: I'm sure +at least for myself, that in many a case I should be more highly +satisfied, to have it said by the world, "I had had an affair with +the moon, in which there was neither sin nor shame," than have it +pass altogether as my own act and deed, wherein there was so much +of both. + +- But, be this as it may, - the moment I cast my eyes upon him, I +was predetermined not to give him a single sous; and, accordingly, +I put my purse into my pocket - buttoned it - set myself a little +more upon my centre, and advanced up gravely to him; there was +something, I fear, forbidding in my look: I have his figure this +moment before my eyes, and think there was that in it which +deserved better. + +The monk, as I judged by the break in his tonsure, a few scattered +white hairs upon his temples, being all that remained of it, might +be about seventy; - but from his eyes, and that sort of fire which +was in them, which seemed more temper'd by courtesy than years, +could be no more than sixty: - Truth might lie between - He was +certainly sixty-five; and the general air of his countenance, +notwithstanding something seem'd to have been planting-wrinkles in +it before their time, agreed to the account. + +It was one of those heads which Guido has often painted, - mild, +pale - penetrating, free from all commonplace ideas of fat +contented ignorance looking downwards upon the earth; - it look'd +forwards; but look'd as if it look'd at something beyond this +world. - How one of his order came by it, heaven above, who let it +fall upon a monk's shoulders best knows: but it would have suited a +Bramin, and had I met it upon the plains of Indostan, I had +reverenced it. + +The rest of his outline may be given in a few strokes; one might +put it into the hands of any one to design, for 'twas neither +elegant nor otherwise, but as character and expression made it so: +it was a thin, spare form, something above the common size, if it +lost not the distinction by a bend forward in the figure, - but it +was the attitude of Intreaty; and, as it now stands presented to my +imagination, it gained more than it lost by it. + +When he had entered the room three paces, he stood still; and +laying his left hand upon his breast (a slender white staff with +which he journey'd being in his right) - when I had got close up to +him, he introduced himself with the little story of the wants of +his convent, and the poverty of his order; - and did it with so +simple a grace, - and such an air of deprecation was there in the +whole cast of his look and figure, - I was bewitch'd not to have +been struck with it. + +- A better reason was, I had predetermined not to give him a single +sous. + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +- 'Tis very true, said I, replying to a cast upwards with his eyes, +with which he had concluded his address; - 'tis very true, - and +heaven be their resource who have no other but the charity of the +world, the stock of which, I fear, is no way sufficient for the +many GREAT CLAIMS which are hourly made upon it. + +As I pronounced the words GREAT CLAIMS, he gave a slight glance +with his eye downwards upon the sleeve of his tunic: - I felt the +full force of the appeal - I acknowledge it, said I: - a coarse +habit, and that but once in three years with meagre diet, - are no +great matters; and the true point of pity is, as they can be earn'd +in the world with so little industry, that your order should wish +to procure them by pressing upon a fund which is the property of +the lame, the blind, the aged and the infirm; - the captive who +lies down counting over and over again the days of his afflictions, +languishes also for his share of it; and had you been of the ORDER +OF MERCY, instead of the order of St. Francis, poor as I am, +continued I, pointing at my portmanteau, full cheerfully should it +have been open'd to you, for the ransom of the unfortunate. - The +monk made me a bow. - But of all others, resumed I, the unfortunate +of our own country, surely, have the first rights; and I have left +thousands in distress upon our own shore. - The monk gave a cordial +wave with his head, - as much as to say, No doubt there is misery +enough in every corner of the world, as well as within our convent +- But we distinguish, said I, laying my hand upon the sleeve of his +tunic, in return for his appeal - we distinguish, my good father! +betwixt those who wish only to eat the bread of their own labour - +and those who eat the bread of other people's, and have no other +plan in life, but to get through it in sloth and ignorance, FOR THE +LOVE OF GOD. + +The poor Franciscan made no reply: a hectic of a moment pass'd +across his cheek, but could not tarry - Nature seemed to have done +with her resentments in him; - he showed none: - but letting his +staff fall within his arms, he pressed both his hands with +resignation upon his breast, and retired. + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +MY heart smote me the moment he shut the door - Psha! said I, with +an air of carelessness, three several times - but it would not do: +every ungracious syllable I had utter'd crowded back into my +imagination: I reflected, I had no right over the poor Franciscan, +but to deny him; and that the punishment of that was enough to the +disappointed, without the addition of unkind language. - I +consider'd his gray hairs - his courteous figure seem'd to re-enter +and gently ask me what injury he had done me? - and why I could use +him thus? - I would have given twenty livres for an advocate. - I +have behaved very ill, said I within myself; but I have only just +set out upon my travels; and shall learn better manners as I get +along. + + +THE DESOBLIGEANT. CALAIS. + + +WHEN a man is discontented with himself, it has one advantage +however, that it puts him into an excellent frame of mind for +making a bargain. Now there being no travelling through France and +Italy without a chaise, - and nature generally prompting us to the +thing we are fittest for, I walk'd out into the coach-yard to buy +or hire something of that kind to my purpose: an old DESOBLIGEANT +in the furthest corner of the court, hit my fancy at first sight, +so I instantly got into it, and finding it in tolerable harmony +with my feelings, I ordered the waiter to call Monsieur Dessein, +the master of the hotel: - but Monsieur Dessein being gone to +vespers, and not caring to face the Franciscan, whom I saw on the +opposite side of the court, in conference with a lady just arrived +at the inn, - I drew the taffeta curtain betwixt us, and being +determined to write my journey, I took out my pen and ink and wrote +the preface to it in the DESOBLIGEANT. + + +PREFACE. IN THE DESOBLIGEANT. + + +IT must have been observed by many a peripatetic philosopher, That +nature has set up by her own unquestionable authority certain +boundaries and fences to circumscribe the discontent of man; she +has effected her purpose in the quietest and easiest manner by +laying him under almost insuperable obligations to work out his +ease, and to sustain his sufferings at home. It is there only that +she has provided him with the most suitable objects to partake of +his happiness, and bear a part of that burden which in all +countries and ages has ever been too heavy for one pair of +shoulders. 'Tis true, we are endued with an imperfect power of +spreading our happiness sometimes beyond HER limits, but 'tis so +ordered, that, from the want of languages, connections, and +dependencies, and from the difference in education, customs, and +habits, we lie under so many impediments in communicating our +sensations out of our own sphere, as often amount to a total +impossibility. + +It will always follow from hence, that the balance of sentimental +commerce is always against the expatriated adventurer: he must buy +what he has little occasion for, at their own price; - his +conversation will seldom be taken in exchange for theirs without a +large discount, - and this, by the by, eternally driving him into +the hands of more equitable brokers, for such conversation as he +can find, it requires no great spirit of divination to guess at his +party - + +This brings me to my point; and naturally leads me (if the see-saw +of this DESOBLIGEANT will but let me get on) into the efficient as +well as final causes of travelling - + +Your idle people that leave their native country, and go abroad for +some reason or reasons which may be derived from one of these +general causes:- + + +Infirmity of body, +Imbecility of mind, or +Inevitable necessity. + + +The first two include all those who travel by land or by water, +labouring with pride, curiosity, vanity, or spleen, subdivided and +combined AD INFINITUM. + +The third class includes the whole army of peregrine martyrs; more +especially those travellers who set out upon their travels with the +benefit of the clergy, either as delinquents travelling under the +direction of governors recommended by the magistrate; - or young +gentlemen transported by the cruelty of parents and guardians, and +travelling under the direction of governors recommended by Oxford, +Aberdeen, and Glasgow. + +There is a fourth class, but their number is so small that they +would not deserve a distinction, were it not necessary in a work of +this nature to observe the greatest precision and nicety, to avoid +a confusion of character. And these men I speak of, are such as +cross the seas and sojourn in a land of strangers, with a view of +saving money for various reasons and upon various pretences: but as +they might also save themselves and others a great deal of +unnecessary trouble by saving their money at home, - and as their +reasons for travelling are the least complex of any other species +of emigrants, I shall distinguish these gentlemen by the name of + + +Simple Travellers. + + +Thus the whole circle of travellers may be reduced to the following +HEADS:- + + +Idle Travellers, +Inquisitive Travellers, +Lying Travellers, +Proud Travellers, +Vain Travellers, +Splenetic Travellers. + + +Then follow: + + +The Travellers of Necessity, +The Delinquent and Felonious Traveller, +The Unfortunate and Innocent Traveller, +The Simple Traveller, + + +And last of all (if you please) The Sentimental Traveller, (meaning +thereby myself) who have travell'd, and of which I am now sitting +down to give an account, - as much out of NECESSITY, and the BESOIN +DE VOYAGER, as any one in the class. + +I am well aware, at the same time, as both my travels and +observations will be altogether of a different cast from any of my +forerunners, that I might have insisted upon a whole nitch entirely +to myself; - but I should break in upon the confines of the VAIN +Traveller, in wishing to draw attention towards me, till I have +some better grounds for it than the mere NOVELTY OF MY VEHICLE. + +It is sufficient for my reader, if he has been a traveller himself, +that with study and reflection hereupon he may be able to determine +his own place and rank in the catalogue; - it will be one step +towards knowing himself; as it is great odds but he retains some +tincture and resemblance, of what he imbibed or carried out, to the +present hour. + +The man who first transplanted the grape of Burgundy to the Cape of +Good Hope (observe he was a Dutchman) never dreamt of drinking the +same wine at the Cape, that the same grape produced upon the French +mountains, - he was too phlegmatic for that - but undoubtedly he +expected to drink some sort of vinous liquor; but whether good or +bad, or indifferent, - he knew enough of this world to know, that +it did not depend upon his choice, but that what is generally +called CHOICE, was to decide his success: however, he hoped for the +best; and in these hopes, by an intemperate confidence in the +fortitude of his head, and the depth of his discretion, MYNHEER +might possibly oversee both in his new vineyard; and by discovering +his nakedness, become a laughing stock to his people. + +Even so it fares with the Poor Traveller, sailing and posting +through the politer kingdoms of the globe, in pursuit of knowledge +and improvements. + +Knowledge and improvements are to be got by sailing and posting for +that purpose; but whether useful knowledge and real improvements is +all a lottery; - and even where the adventurer is successful, the +acquired stock must be used with caution and sobriety, to turn to +any profit: - but, as the chances run prodigiously the other way, +both as to the acquisition and application, I am of opinion, That a +man would act as wisely, if he could prevail upon himself to live +contented without foreign knowledge or foreign improvements, +especially if he lives in a country that has no absolute want of +either; - and indeed, much grief of heart has it oft and many a +time cost me, when I have observed how many a foul step the +Inquisitive Traveller has measured to see sights and look into +discoveries; all which, as Sancho Panza said to Don Quixote, they +might have seen dry-shod at home. It is an age so full of light, +that there is scarce a country or corner in Europe whose beams are +not crossed and interchanged with others. - Knowledge in most of +its branches, and in most affairs, is like music in an Italian +street, whereof those may partake who pay nothing. - But there is +no nation under heaven - and God is my record (before whose +tribunal I must one day come and give an account of this work) - +that I do not speak it vauntingly, - but there is no nation under +heaven abounding with more variety of learning, - where the +sciences may be more fitly woo'd, or more surely won, than here, - +where art is encouraged, and will so soon rise high, - where Nature +(take her altogether) has so little to answer for, - and, to close +all, where there is more wit and variety of character to feed the +mind with: - Where then, my dear countrymen, are you going? - + +We are only looking at this chaise, said they. - Your most obedient +servant, said I, skipping out of it, and pulling off my hat. - We +were wondering, said one of them, who, I found was an INQUISITIVE +TRAVELLER, - what could occasion its motion. - 'Twas the agitation, +said I, coolly, of writing a preface. - I never heard, said the +other, who was a SIMPLE TRAVELLER, of a preface wrote in a +DESOBLIGEANT. - It would have been better, said I, in a VIS-A-VIS. + +- AS AN ENGLISHMAN DOES NOT TRAVEL TO SEE ENGLISHMEN, I retired to +my room. + + +CALAIS. + + +I PERCEIVED that something darken'd the passage more than myself, +as I stepp'd along it to my room; it was effectually Mons. Dessein, +the master of the hotel, who had just returned from vespers, and +with his hat under his arm, was most complaisantly following me, to +put me in mind of my wants. I had wrote myself pretty well out of +conceit with the DESOBLIGEANT, and Mons. Dessein speaking of it, +with a shrug, as if it would no way suit me, it immediately struck +my fancy that it belong'd to some INNOCENT TRAVELLER, who, on his +return home, had left it to Mons. Dessein's honour to make the most +of. Four months had elapsed since it had finished its career of +Europe in the corner of Mons. Dessein's coach-yard; and having +sallied out from thence but a vampt-up business at the first, +though it had been twice taken to pieces on Mount Sennis, it had +not profited much by its adventures, - but by none so little as the +standing so many months unpitied in the corner of Mons. Dessein's +coach-yard. Much indeed was not to be said for it, - but something +might; - and when a few words will rescue misery out of her +distress, I hate the man who can be a churl of them. + +- Now was I the master of this hotel, said I, laying the point of +my fore-finger on Mons. Dessein's breast, I would inevitably make a +point of getting rid of this unfortunate DESOBLIGEANT; - it stands +swinging reproaches at you every time you pass by it. + +MON DIEU! said Mons. Dessein, - I have no interest - Except the +interest, said I, which men of a certain turn of mind take, Mons. +Dessein, in their own sensations, - I'm persuaded, to a man who +feels for others as well as for himself, every rainy night, +disguise it as you will, must cast a damp upon your spirits: - You +suffer, Mons. Dessein, as much as the machine - + +I have always observed, when there is as much SOUR as SWEET in a +compliment, that an Englishman is eternally at a loss within +himself, whether to take it, or let it alone: a Frenchman never is: +Mons. Dessein made me a bow. + +C'EST BIEN VRAI, said he. - But in this case I should only exchange +one disquietude for another, and with loss: figure to yourself, my +dear Sir, that in giving you a chaise which would fall to pieces +before you had got half-way to Paris, - figure to yourself how much +I should suffer, in giving an ill impression of myself to a man of +honour, and lying at the mercy, as I must do, D'UN HOMME D'ESPRIT. + +The dose was made up exactly after my own prescription; so I could +not help tasting it, - and, returning Mons. Dessein his bow, +without more casuistry we walk'd together towards his Remise, to +take a view of his magazine of chaises. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +IT must needs be a hostile kind of a world, when the buyer (if it +be but of a sorry post-chaise) cannot go forth with the seller +thereof into the street to terminate the difference betwixt them, +but he instantly falls into the same frame of mind, and views his +conventionist with the same sort of eye, as if he was going along +with him to Hyde-park corner to fight a duel. For my own part, +being but a poor swordsman, and no way a match for Monsieur +Dessein, I felt the rotation of all the movements within me, to +which the situation is incident; - I looked at Monsieur Dessein +through and through - eyed him as he walk'd along in profile, - +then, EN FACE; - thought like a Jew, - then a Turk, - disliked his +wig, - cursed him by my gods, - wished him at the devil. - + +- And is all this to be lighted up in the heart for a beggarly +account of three or four louis d'ors, which is the most I can be +overreached in? - Base passion! said I, turning myself about, as a +man naturally does upon a sudden reverse of sentiment, - base, +ungentle passion! thy hand is against every man, and every man's +hand against thee. - Heaven forbid! said she, raising her hand up +to her forehead, for I had turned full in front upon the lady whom +I had seen in conference with the monk: - she had followed us +unperceived. - Heaven forbid, indeed! said I, offering her my own; +- she had a black pair of silk gloves, open only at the thumb and +two fore-fingers, so accepted it without reserve, - and I led her +up to the door of the Remise. + +Monsieur Dessein had DIABLED the key above fifty times before he +had found out he had come with a wrong one in his hand: we were as +impatient as himself to have it opened; and so attentive to the +obstacle that I continued holding her hand almost without knowing +it: so that Monsieur Dessein left us together with her hand in +mine, and with our faces turned towards the door of the Remise, and +said he would be back in five minutes. + +Now a colloquy of five minutes, in such a situation, is worth one +of as many ages, with your faces turned towards the street: in the +latter case, 'tis drawn from the objects and occurrences without; - +when your eyes are fixed upon a dead blank, - you draw purely from +yourselves. A silence of a single moment upon Mons. Dessein's +leaving us, had been fatal to the situation - she had infallibly +turned about; - so I begun the conversation instantly. - + +- But what were the temptations (as I write not to apologize for +the weaknesses of my heart in this tour, - but to give an account +of them) - shall be described with the same simplicity with which I +felt them. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +WHEN I told the reader that I did not care to get out of the +DESOBLIGEANT, because I saw the monk in close conference with a +lady just arrived at the inn - I told him the truth, - but I did +not tell him the whole truth; for I was as full as much restrained +by the appearance and figure of the lady he was talking to. +Suspicion crossed my brain and said, he was telling her what had +passed: something jarred upon it within me, - I wished him at his +convent. + +When the heart flies out before the understanding, it saves the +judgment a world of pains. - I was certain she was of a better +order of beings; - however, I thought no more of her, but went on +and wrote my preface. + +The impression returned upon my encounter with her in the street; a +guarded frankness with which she gave me her hand, showed, I +thought, her good education and her good sense; and as I led her +on, I felt a pleasurable ductility about her, which spread a +calmness over all my spirits - + +- Good God! how a man might lead such a creature as this round the +world with him! - + +I had not yet seen her face - 'twas not material: for the drawing +was instantly set about, and long before we had got to the door of +the Remise, FANCY had finished the whole head, and pleased herself +as much with its fitting her goddess, as if she had dived into the +Tiber for it; - but thou art a seduced, and a seducing slut; and +albeit thou cheatest us seven times a day with thy pictures and +images, yet with so many charms dost thou do it, and thou deckest +out thy pictures in the shapes of so many angels of light, 'tis a +shame to break with thee. + +When we had got to the door of the Remise, she withdrew her hand +from across her forehead, and let me see the original: - it was a +face of about six-and-twenty, - of a clear transparent brown, +simply set off without rouge or powder; - it was not critically +handsome, but there was that in it, which, in the frame of mind I +was in, attached me much more to it, - it was interesting: I +fancied it wore the characters of a widow'd look, and in that state +of its declension, which had passed the two first paroxysms of +sorrow, and was quietly beginning to reconcile itself to its loss; +- but a thousand other distresses might have traced the same lines; +I wish'd to know what they had been - and was ready to inquire, +(had the same BON TON of conversation permitted, as in the days of +Esdras) - "WHAT AILELH THEE? AND WHY ART THOU DISQUIETED? AND WHY +IS THY UNDERSTANDING TROUBLED?" - In a word, I felt benevolence for +her; and resolv'd some way or other to throw in my mite of +courtesy, - if not of service. + +Such were my temptations; - and in this disposition to give way to +them, was I left alone with the lady with her hand in mine, and +with our faces both turned closer to the door of the Remise than +what was absolutely necessary. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +THIS certainly, fair lady, said I, raising her hand up little +lightly as I began, must be one of Fortune's whimsical doings; to +take two utter strangers by their hands, - of different sexes, and +perhaps from different corners of the globe, and in one moment +place them together in such a cordial situation as Friendship +herself could scarce have achieved for them, had she projected it +for a month. + +- And your reflection upon it shows how much, Monsieur, she has +embarrassed you by the adventure - + +When the situation is what we would wish, nothing is so ill-timed +as to hint at the circumstances which make it so: you thank +Fortune, continued she - you had reason - the heart knew it, and +was satisfied; and who but an English philosopher would have sent +notice of it to the brain to reverse the judgment? + +In saying this, she disengaged her hand with a look which I thought +a sufficient commentary upon the text. + +It is a miserable picture which I am going to give of the weakness +of my heart, by owning, that it suffered a pain, which worthier +occasions could not have inflicted. - I was mortified with the loss +of her hand, and the manner in which I had lost it carried neither +oil nor wine to the wound: I never felt the pain of a sheepish +inferiority so miserably in my life. + +The triumphs of a true feminine heart are short upon these +discomfitures. In a very few seconds she laid her hand upon the +cuff of my coat, in order to finish her reply; so, some way or +other, God knows how, I regained my situation. + +- She had nothing to add. + +I forthwith began to model a different conversation for the lady, +thinking from the spirit as well as moral of this, that I had been +mistaken in her character; but upon turning her face towards me, +the spirit which had animated the reply was fled, - the muscles +relaxed, and I beheld the same unprotected look of distress which +first won me to her interest: - melancholy! to see such +sprightliness the prey of sorrow, - I pitied her from my soul; and +though it may seem ridiculous enough to a torpid heart, - I could +have taken her into my arms, and cherished her, though it was in +the open street, without brushing. + +The pulsations of the arteries along my fingers pressing across +hers, told her what was passing within me: she looked down - a +silence of some moments followed. + +I fear in this interval, I must have made some slight efforts +towards a closer compression of her hand, from a subtle sensation I +felt in the palm of my own, - not as if she was going to withdraw +hers - but as if she thought about it; - and I had infallibly lost +it a second time, had not instinct more than reason directed me to +the last resource in these dangers, - to hold it loosely, and in a +manner as if I was every moment going to release it, of myself; so +she let it continue, till Monsieur Dessein returned with the key; +and in the mean time I set myself to consider how I should undo the +ill impressions which the poor monk's story, in case he had told it +her, must have planted in her breast against me. + + +THE SNUFF BOX. CALAIS. + + +THE good old monk was within six paces of us, as the idea of him +crossed my mind; and was advancing towards us a little out of the +line, as if uncertain whether he should break in upon us or no. - +He stopp'd, however, as soon as he came up to us, with a world of +frankness: and having a horn snuff box in his hand, he presented it +open to me. - You shall taste mine - said I, pulling out my box +(which was a small tortoise one) and putting it into his hand. - +'Tis most excellent, said the monk. Then do me the favour, I +replied, to accept of the box and all, and when you take a pinch +out of it, sometimes recollect it was the peace offering of a man +who once used you unkindly, but not from his heart. + +The poor monk blush'd as red as scarlet. MON DIEU! said he, +pressing his hands together - you never used me unkindly. - I +should think, said the lady, he is not likely. I blush'd in my +turn; but from what movements, I leave to the few who feel, to +analyze. - Excuse me, Madame, replied I, - I treated him most +unkindly; and from no provocations. - 'Tis impossible, said the +lady. - My God! cried the monk, with a warmth of asseveration which +seem'd not to belong to him - the fault was in me, and in the +indiscretion of my zeal. - The lady opposed it, and I joined with +her in maintaining it was impossible, that a spirit so regulated as +his, could give offence to any. + +I knew not that contention could be rendered so sweet and +pleasurable a thing to the nerves as I then felt it. - We remained +silent, without any sensation of that foolish pain which takes +place, when, in such a circle, you look for ten minutes in one +another's faces without saying a word. Whilst this lasted, the +monk rubbed his horn box upon the sleeve of his tunic; and as soon +as it had acquired a little air of brightness by the friction - he +made me a low bow, and said, 'twas too late to say whether it was +the weakness or goodness of our tempers which had involved us in +this contest - but be it as it would, - he begg'd we might exchange +boxes. - In saying this, he presented his to me with one hand, as +he took mine from me in the other, and having kissed it, - with a +stream of good nature in his eyes, he put it into his bosom, - and +took his leave. + +I guard this box, as I would the instrumental parts of my religion, +to help my mind on to something better: in truth, I seldom go +abroad without it; and oft and many a time have I called up by it +the courteous spirit of its owner to regulate my own, in the +justlings of the world: they had found full employment for his, as +I learnt from his story, till about the forty-fifth year of his +age, when upon some military services ill requited, and meeting at +the same time with a disappointment in the tenderest of passions, +he abandoned the sword and the sex together, and took sanctuary not +so much in his convent as in himself. + +I feel a damp upon my spirits, as I am going to add, that in my +last return through Calais, upon enquiring after Father Lorenzo, I +heard he had been dead near three months, and was buried, not in +his convent, but, according to his desire, in a little cemetery +belonging to it, about two leagues off: I had a strong desire to +see where they had laid him, - when, upon pulling out his little +horn box, as I sat by his grave, and plucking up a nettle or two at +the head of it, which had no business to grow there, they all +struck together so forcibly upon my affections, that I burst into a +flood of tears: - but I am as weak as a woman; and I beg the world +not to smile, but to pity me. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +I HAD never quitted the lady's hand all this time, and had held it +so long, that it would have been indecent to have let it go, +without first pressing it to my lips: the blood and spirits, which +had suffered a revulsion from her, crowded back to her as I did it. + +Now the two travellers, who had spoke to me in the coach-yard, +happening at that crisis to be passing by, and observing our +communications, naturally took it into their heads that we must be +MAN AND WIFE at least; so, stopping as soon as they came up to the +door of the Remise, the one of them who was the Inquisitive +Traveller, ask'd us, if we set out for Paris the next morning? - I +could only answer for myself, I said; and the lady added, she was +for Amiens. - We dined there yesterday, said the Simple Traveller. +- You go directly through the town, added the other, in your road +to Paris. I was going to return a thousand thanks for the +intelligence, THAT AMIENS WAS IN THE ROAD TO PARIS, but, upon +pulling out my poor monk's little horn box to take a pinch of +snuff, I made them a quiet bow, and wishing them a good passage to +Dover. - They left us alone. - + +- Now where would be the harm, said I to myself, if I were to beg +of this distressed lady to accept of half of my chaise? - and what +mighty mischief could ensue? + +Every dirty passion, and bad propensity in my nature took the +alarm, as I stated the proposition. - It will oblige you to have a +third horse, said Avarice, which will put twenty livres out of your +pocket; - You know not what she is, said Caution; - or what scrapes +the affair may draw you into, whisper'd Cowardice. - + +Depend upon it, Yorick! said Discretion, 'twill be said you went +off with a mistress, and came by assignation to Calais for that +purpose; - + +- You can never after, cried Hypocrisy aloud, show your face in the +world; - or rise, quoth Meanness, in the church; - or be any thing +in it, said Pride, but a lousy prebendary. + +But 'tis a civil thing, said I; - and as I generally act from the +first impulse, and therefore seldom listen to these cabals, which +serve no purpose, that I know of, but to encompass the heart with +adamant - I turned instantly about to the lady. - + +- But she had glided off unperceived, as the cause was pleading, +and had made ten or a dozen paces down the street, by the time I +had made the determination; so I set off after her with a long +stride, to make her the proposal, with the best address I was +master of: but observing she walk'd with her cheek half resting +upon the palm of her hand, - with the slow short-measur'd step of +thoughtfulness, - and with her eyes, as she went step by step, +fixed upon the ground, it struck me she was trying the same cause +herself. - God help her! said I, she has some mother-in-law, or +tartufish aunt, or nonsensical old woman, to consult upon the +occasion, as well as myself: so not caring to interrupt the +process, and deeming it more gallant to take her at discretion than +by surprise, I faced about and took a short turn or two before the +door of the Remise, whilst she walk'd musing on one side. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +HAVING, on the first sight of the lady, settled the affair in my +fancy "that she was of the better order of beings;" - and then laid +it down as a second axiom, as indisputable as the first, that she +was a widow, and wore a character of distress, - I went no further; +I got ground enough for the situation which pleased me; - and had +she remained close beside my elbow till midnight, I should have +held true to my system, and considered her only under that general +idea. + +She had scarce got twenty paces distant from me, ere something +within me called out for a more particular enquiry; - it brought on +the idea of a further separation: - I might possibly never see her +more: - The heart is for saving what it can; and I wanted the +traces through which my wishes might find their way to her, in case +I should never rejoin her myself; in a word, I wished to know her +name, - her family's - her condition; and as I knew the place to +which she was going, I wanted to know from whence she came: but +there was no coming at all this intelligence; a hundred little +delicacies stood in the way. I form'd a score different plans. - +There was no such thing as a man's asking her directly; - the thing +was impossible. + +A little French DEBONNAIRE captain, who came dancing down the +street, showed me it was the easiest thing in the world: for, +popping in betwixt us, just as the lady was returning back to the +door of the Remise, he introduced himself to my acquaintance, and +before he had well got announced, begg'd I would do him the honour +to present him to the lady. - I had not been presented myself; - so +turning about to her, he did it just as well, by asking her if she +had come from Paris? No: she was going that route, she said. - +VOUS N'ETES PAS DE LONDRES? - She was not, she replied. - Then +Madame must have come through Flanders. - APPAREMMENT VOUS ETES +FLAMMANDE? said the French captain. - The lady answered, she was. - +PEUT ETRE DE LISLE? added he. - She said, she was not of Lisle. - +Nor Arras? - nor Cambray? - nor Ghent? - nor Brussels? - She +answered, she was of Brussels. + +He had had the honour, he said, to be at the bombardment of it last +war; - that it was finely situated, POUR CELA, - and full of +noblesse when the Imperialists were driven out by the French (the +lady made a slight courtesy) - so giving her an account of the +affair, and of the share he had had in it, - he begg'd the honour +to know her name, - so made his bow. + +- ET MADAME A SON MARI? - said he, looking back when he had made +two steps, - and, without staying for an answer - danced down the +street. + +Had I served seven years apprenticeship to good breeding, I could +not have done as much. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +AS the little French captain left us, Mons. Dessein came up with +the key of the Remise in his hand, and forthwith let us into his +magazine of chaises. + +The first object which caught my eye, as Mons. Dessein open'd the +door of the Remise, was another old tatter'd DESOBLIGEANT; and +notwithstanding it was the exact picture of that which had hit my +fancy so much in the coach-yard but an hour before, - the very +sight of it stirr'd up a disagreeable sensation within me now; and +I thought 'twas a churlish beast into whose heart the idea could +first enter, to construct such a machine; nor had I much more +charity for the man who could think of using it. + +I observed the lady was as little taken with it as myself: so Mons. +Dessein led us on to a couple of chaises which stood abreast, +telling us, as he recommended them, that they had been purchased by +my lord A. and B. to go the grand tour, but had gone no further +than Paris, so were in all respects as good as new. - They were too +good; - so I pass'd on to a third, which stood behind, and +forthwith begun to chaffer for the price. - But 'twill scarce hold +two, said I, opening the door and getting in. - Have the goodness, +Madame, said Mons. Dessein, offering his arm, to step in. - The +lady hesitated half a second, and stepped in; and the waiter that +moment beckoning to speak to Mon. Dessein, he shut the door of the +chaise upon us, and left us. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +C'EST BIEN COMIQUE, 'tis very droll, said the lady, smiling, from +the reflection that this was the second time we a had been left +together by a parcel of nonsensical contingencies, - C'EST BIEN +COMIQUE, said she. - + +- There wants nothing, said I, to make it so but the comic use +which the gallantry of a Frenchman would put it to, - to make love +the first moment, and an offer of his person the second. + +'Tis their FORT, replied the lady. + +It is supposed so at least; - and how it has come to pass, +continued I, I know not; but they have certainly got the credit of +understanding more of love, and making it better than any other +nation upon earth; but, for my own part, I think them arrant +bunglers, and in truth the worst set of marksmen that ever tried +Cupid's patience. + +- To think of making love by SENTIMENTS! + +I should as soon think of making a genteel suit of clothes out of +remnants: - and to do it - pop - at first sight, by declaration - +is submitting the offer, and themselves with it, to be sifted with +all their POURS and CONTRES, by an unheated mind. + +The lady attended as if she expected I should go on. + +Consider then, Madame, continued I, laying my hand upon hers:- + +That grave people hate love for the name's sake; - + +That selfish people hate it for their own; - + +Hypocrites for heaven's; - + +And that all of us, both old and young, being ten times worse +frightened than hurt by the very REPORT, - what a want of knowledge +in this branch of commence a man betrays, whoever lets the word +come out of his lips, till an hour or two, at least, after the time +that his silence upon it becomes tormenting. A course of small, +quiet attentions, not so pointed as to alarm, - nor so vague as to +be misunderstood - with now and then a look of kindness, and little +or nothing said upon it, - leaves nature for your mistress, and she +fashions it to her mind. - + +Then I solemnly declare, said the lady, blushing, you have been +making love to me all this while. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +MONSIEUR DESSEIN came back to let us out of the chaise, and +acquaint the lady, the count de L-, her brother, was just arrived +at the hotel. Though I had infinite good will for the lady, I +cannot say that I rejoiced in my heart at the event - and could not +help telling her so; - for it is fatal to a proposal, Madame, said +I, that I was going to make to you - + +- You need not tell me what the proposal was, said she, laying her +hand upon both mine, as she interrupted me. - A man my good Sir, +has seldom an offer of kindness to make to a woman, but she has a +presentiment of it some moments before. - + +Nature arms her with it, said I, for immediate preservation. - But +I think, said she, looking in my face, I had no evil to apprehend, +-and, to deal frankly with you, had determined to accept it. - If I +had - (she stopped a moment) - I believe your good will would have +drawn a story from me, which would have made pity the only +dangerous thing in the journey. + +In saying this, she suffered me to kiss her hand twice, and with a +look of sensibility mixed with concern, she got out of the chaise, +- and bid adieu. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +I NEVER finished a twelve guinea bargain so expeditiously in my +life: my time seemed heavy, upon the loss of the lady, and knowing +every moment of it would be as two, till I put myself into motion, +- I ordered post horses directly, and walked towards the hotel. + +Lord! said I, hearing the town clock strike four, and recollecting +that I had been little more than a single hour in Calais, - + +- What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this +little span of life by him who interests his heart in every thing, +and who, having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually +holding out to him as he journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he +can FAIRLY lay his hands on! + +- If this won't turn out something, - another will; - no matter, - +'tis an assay upon human nature - I get my labour for my pains, - +'tis enough; - the pleasure of the experiment has kept my senses +and the best part of my blood awake, and laid the gross to sleep. + +I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and cry, 'Tis +all barren; - and so it is: and so is all the world to him who will +not cultivate the fruits it offers. I declare, said I, clapping my +hands cheerily together, that were I in a desert, I would find out +wherewith in it to call forth my affections: - if I could not do +better, I would fasten them upon some sweet myrtle, or seek some +melancholy cypress to connect myself to; - I would court their +shade, and greet them kindly for their protection. - I would cut my +name upon them, and swear they were the loveliest trees throughout +the desert: if their leaves wither'd, I would teach myself to +mourn; and, when they rejoiced, I would rejoice along with them. + +The learned Smelfungus travelled from Boulogne to Paris, - from +Paris to Rome, - and so on; - but he set out with the spleen and +jaundice, and every object he pass'd by was discoloured or +distorted. - He wrote an account of them, but 'twas nothing but the +account of his miserable feelings. + +I met Smelfungus in the grand portico of the Pantheon: - he was +just coming out of it. - 'TIS NOTHING BUT A HUGE COCKPIT, said he: +- I wish you had said nothing worse of the Venus of Medicis, +replied I; - for in passing through Florence, I had heard he had +fallen foul upon the goddess, and used her worse than a common +strumpet, without the least provocation in nature. + +I popp'd upon Smelfungus again at Turin, in his return home; and a +sad tale of sorrowful adventures had he to tell, "wherein he spoke +of moving accidents by flood and field, and of the cannibals that +each other eat: the Anthropophagi:" - he had been flayed alive, and +bedevil'd, and used worse than St. Bartholomew, at every stage he +had come at. - + +- I'll tell it, cried Smelfungus, to the world. You had better +tell it, said I, to your physician. + +Mundungus, with an immense fortune, made the whole tour; going on +from Rome to Naples, - from Naples to Venice, - from Venice to +Vienna, - to Dresden, to Berlin, without one generous connection or +pleasurable anecdote to tell of; but he had travell'd straight on, +looking neither to his right hand nor his left, lest Love or Pity +should seduce him out of his road. + +Peace be to them! if it is to be found; but heaven itself, were it +possible to get there with such tempers, would want objects to give +it; every gentle spirit would come flying upon the wings of Love to +hail their arrival. - Nothing would the souls of Smelfungus and +Mundungus hear of, but fresh anthems of joy, fresh raptures of +love, and fresh congratulations of their common felicity. - I +heartily pity them; they have brought up no faculties for this +work; and, were the happiest mansion in heaven to be allotted to +Smelfungus and Mundungus, they would be so far from being happy, +that the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus would do penance there +to all eternity! + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I HAD once lost my portmanteau from behind my chaise, and twice got +out in the rain, and one of the times up to the knees in dirt, to +help the postilion to tie it on, without being able to find out +what was wanting. - Nor was it till I got to Montreuil, upon the +landlord's asking me if I wanted not a servant, that it occurred to +me, that that was the very thing. + +A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I. - Because, Monsieur, +said the landlord, there is a clever young fellow, who would be +very proud of the honour to serve an Englishman. - But why an +English one, more than any other? - They are so generous, said the +landlord. - I'll be shot if this is not a livre out of my pocket, +quoth I to myself, this very night. - But they have wherewithal to +be so, Monsieur, added he. - Set down one livre more for that, +quoth I. - It was but last night, said the landlord, QU'UN MILORD +ANGLOIS PRESENTOIT UN ECU E LA FILLE DE CHAMBRE. - TANT PIS POUR +MADEMOISELLE JANATONE, said I. + +Now Janatone, being the landlord's daughter, and the landlord +supposing I was young in French, took the liberty to inform me, I +should not have said TANT PIS - but, TANT MIEUX. TANT MIEUX, +TOUJOURS, MONSIEUR, said he, when there is any thing to be got - +TANT PIS, when there is nothing. It comes to the same thing, said +I. PARDONNEZ-MOI, said the landlord. + +I cannot take a fitter opportunity to observe, once for all, that +TANT PIS and TANT MIEUX, being two of the great hinges in French +conversation, a stranger would do well to set himself right in the +use of them, before he gets to Paris. + +A prompt French marquis at our ambassador's table demanded of Mr. +H-, if he was H- the poet? No, said Mr. H-, mildly. - TANT PIS, +replied the marquis. + +It is H- the historian, said another, - TANT MIEUX, said the +marquis. And Mr. H-, who is a man of an excellent heart, return'd +thanks for both. + +When the landlord had set me right in this matter, he called in La +Fleur, which was the name of the young man he had spoke of, - +saying only first, That as for his talents he would presume to say +nothing, - Monsieur was the best judge what would suit him; but for +the fidelity of La Fleur he would stand responsible in all he was +worth. + +The landlord deliver'd this in a manner which instantly set my mind +to the business I was upon; - and La Fleur, who stood waiting +without, in that breathless expectation which every son of nature +of us have felt in our turns, came in. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I AM apt to be taken with all kinds of people at first sight; but +never more so than when a poor devil comes to offer his service to +so poor a devil as myself; and as I know this weakness, I always +suffer my judgment to draw back something on that very account, - +and this more or less, according to the mood I am in, and the case; +- and I may add, the gender too, of the person I am to govern. + +When La Fleur entered the room, after every discount I could make +for my soul, the genuine look and air of the fellow determined the +matter at once in his favour; so I hired him first, - and then +began to enquire what he could do: But I shall find out his +talents, quoth I, as I want them, - besides, a Frenchman can do +every thing. + +Now poor La Fleur could do nothing in the world but beat a drum, +and play a march or two upon the fife. I was determined to make +his talents do; and can't say my weakness was ever so insulted by +my wisdom as in the attempt. + +La Fleur had set out early in life, as gallantly as most Frenchmen +do, with SERVING for a few years; at the end of which, having +satisfied the sentiment, and found, moreover, That the honour of +beating a drum was likely to be its own reward, as it open'd no +further track of glory to him, - he retired E SES TERRES, and lived +COMME IL PLAISOIT E DIEU; - that is to say, upon nothing. + +- And so, quoth Wisdom, you have hired a drummer to attend you in +this tour of yours through France and Italy! - Psha! said I, and do +not one half of our gentry go with a humdrum COMPAGNON DU VOYAGE +the same round, and have the piper and the devil and all to pay +besides? When man can extricate himself with an EQUIVOQUE in such +an unequal match, - he is not ill off. - But you can do something +else, La Fleur? said I. - O QU'OUI! he could make spatterdashes, +and play a little upon the fiddle. - Bravo! said Wisdom. - Why, I +play a bass myself, said I; - we shall do very well. You can +shave, and dress a wig a little, La Fleur? - He had all the +dispositions in the world. - It is enough for heaven! said I, +interrupting him, - and ought to be enough for me. - So, supper +coming in, and having a frisky English spaniel on one side of my +chair, and a French valet, with as much hilarity in his countenance +as ever Nature painted in one, on the other, - I was satisfied to +my heart's content with my empire; and if monarchs knew what they +would be at, they might be as satisfied as I was. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +AS La Fleur went the whole tour of France and Italy with me, and +will be often upon the stage, I must interest the reader a little +further in his behalf, by saying, that I had never less reason to +repent of the impulses which generally do determine me, than in +regard to this fellow; - he was a faithful, affectionate, simple +soul as ever trudged after the heels of a philosopher; and, +notwithstanding his talents of drum beating and spatterdash-making, +which, though very good in themselves, happened to be of no great +service to me, yet was I hourly recompensed by the festivity of his +temper; - it supplied all defects: - I had a constant resource in +his looks in all difficulties and distresses of my own - I was +going to have added of his too; but La Fleur was out of the reach +of every thing; for, whether 'twas hunger or thirst, or cold or +nakedness, or watchings, or whatever stripes of ill luck La Fleur +met with in our journeyings, there was no index in his physiognomy +to point them out by, - he was eternally the same; so that if I am +a piece of a philosopher, which Satan now and then puts it into my +head I am, - it always mortifies the pride of the conceit, by +reflecting how much I owe to the complexional philosophy of this +poor fellow, for shaming me into one of a better kind. With all +this, La Fleur had a small cast of the coxcomb, - but he seemed at +first sight to be more a coxcomb of nature than of art; and, before +I had been three days in Paris with him, - he seemed to be no +coxcomb at all. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +THE next morning, La Fleur entering upon his employment, I +delivered to him the key of my portmanteau, with an inventory of my +half a dozen shirts and silk pair of breeches, and bid him fasten +all upon the chaise, - get the horses put to, - and desire the +landlord to come in with his bill. + +C'EST UN GARCON DE BONNE FORTUNE, said the landlord, pointing +through the window to half a dozen wenches who had got round about +La Fleur, and were most kindly taking their leave of him, as the +postilion was leading out the horses. La Fleur kissed all their +hands round and round again, and thrice he wiped his eyes, and +thrice he promised he would bring them all pardons from Rome. + +- The young fellow, said the landlord, is beloved by all the town, +and there is scarce a corner in Montreuil where the want of him +will not be felt: he has but one misfortune in the world, continued +he, "he is always in love." - I am heartily glad of it, said I, - +'twill save me the trouble every night of putting my breeches under +my head. In saying this, I was making not so much La Fleur's eloge +as my own, having been in love with one princess or another almost +all my life, and I hope I shall go on so till I die, being firmly +persuaded, that if ever I do a mean action, it must be in some +interval betwixt one passion and another: whilst this interregnum +lasts, I always perceive my heart locked up, - I can scarce find in +it to give Misery a sixpence; and therefore I always get out of it +as fast as I can - and the moment I am rekindled, I am all +generosity and good-will again; and would do anything in the world, +either for or with any one, if they will but satisfy me there is no +sin in it. + +- But in saying this, - sure I am commanding the passion, - not +myself. + + +A FRAGMENT. + + +- THE town of Abdera, notwithstanding Democritus lived there, +trying all the powers of irony and laughter to reclaim it, was the +vilest and most profligate town in all Thrace. What for poisons, +conspiracies, and assassinations, - libels, pasquinades, and +tumults, there was no going there by day - 'twas worse by night. + +Now, when things were at the worst, it came to pass that the +Andromeda of Euripides being represented at Abdera, the whole +orchestra was delighted with it: but of all the passages which +delighted them, nothing operated more upon their imaginations than +the tender strokes of nature which the poet had wrought up in that +pathetic speech of Perseus, O CUPID, PRINCE OF GODS AND MEN! &c. +Every man almost spoke pure iambics the next day, and talked of +nothing but Perseus his pathetic address, - "O CUPID! PRINCE OF +GODS AND MEN!" - in every street of Abdera, in every house, "O +Cupid! Cupid!" - in every mouth, like the natural notes of some +sweet melody which drop from it, whether it will or no, - nothing +but "Cupid! Cupid! prince of gods and men!" - The fire caught - and +the whole city, like the heart of one man, open'd itself to Love. + +No pharmacopolist could sell one grain of hellebore, - not a single +armourer had a heart to forge one instrument of death; - Friendship +and Virtue met together, and kiss'd each other in the street; the +golden age returned, and hung over the town of Abdera - every +Abderite took his eaten pipe, and every Abderitish woman left her +purple web, and chastely sat her down and listened to the song. + +'Twas only in the power, says the Fragment, of the God whose empire +extendeth from heaven to earth, and even to the depths of the sea, +to have done this. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +WHEN all is ready, and every article is disputed and paid for in +the inn, unless you are a little sour'd by the adventure, there is +always a matter to compound at the door, before you can get into +your chaise; and that is with the sons and daughters of poverty, +who surround you. Let no man say, "Let them go to the devil!" - +'tis a cruel journey to send a few miserables, and they have had +sufferings enow without it: I always think it better to take a few +sous out in my hand; and I would counsel every gentle traveller to +do so likewise: he need not be so exact in setting down his motives +for giving them; - They will be registered elsewhere. + +For my own part, there is no man gives so little as I do; for few, +that I know, have so little to give; but as this was the first +public act of my charity in France, I took the more notice of it. + +A well-a-way! said I, - I have but eight sous in the world, showing +them in my hand, and there are eight poor men and eight poor women +for 'em. + +A poor tatter'd soul, without a shirt on, instantly withdrew his +claim, by retiring two steps out of the circle, and making a +disqualifying bow on his part. Had the whole PARTERRE cried out, +PLACE AUX DAMES, with one voice, it would not have conveyed the +sentiment of a deference for the sex with half the effect. + +Just Heaven! for what wise reasons hast thou ordered it, that +beggary and urbanity, which are at such variance in other +countries, should find a way to be at unity in this? + +- I insisted upon presenting him with a single sous, merely for his +POLITESSE. + +A poor little dwarfish brisk fellow, who stood over against me in +the circle, putting something first under his arm, which had once +been a hat, took his snuff-box out of his pocket, and generously +offer'd a pinch on both sides of him: it was a gift of consequence, +and modestly declined. - The poor little fellow pressed it upon +them with a nod of welcomeness. - PRENEZ EN - PRENEZ, said he, +looking another way; so they each took a pinch. - Pity thy box +should ever want one! said I to myself; so I put a couple of sous +into it - taking a small pinch out of his box, to enhance their +value, as I did it. He felt the weight of the second obligation +more than of the first, - 'twas doing him an honour, - the other +was only doing him a charity; - and he made me a bow down to the +ground for it. + +- Here! said I to an old soldier with one hand, who had been +campaigned and worn out to death in the service - here's a couple +of sous for thee. - VIVE LE ROI! said the old soldier. + +I had then but three sous left: so I gave one, simply, POUR L'AMOUR +DE DIEU, which was the footing on which it was begg'd. - The poor +woman had a dislocated hip; so it could not be well upon any other +motive. + +MON CHER ET TRES-CHARITABLE MONSIEUR. - There's no opposing this, +said I. + +MILORD ANGLOIS - the very sound was worth the money; - so I gave MY +LAST SOUS FOR IT. But in the eagerness of giving, I had overlooked +a PAUVRE HONTEUX, who had had no one to ask a sous for him, and +who, I believe, would have perished, ere he could have ask'd one +for himself: he stood by the chaise a little without the circle, +and wiped a tear from a face which I thought had seen better days. +- Good God! said I - and I have not one single sous left to give +him. - But you have a thousand! cried all the powers of nature, +stirring within me; - so I gave him - no matter what - I am ashamed +to say HOW MUCH now, - and was ashamed to think how little, then: +so, if the reader can form any conjecture of my disposition, as +these two fixed points are given him, he may judge within a livre +or two what was the precise sum. + +I could afford nothing for the rest, but DIEU VOUS BENISSE! + +- ET LE BON DIEU VOUS BENISSE ENCORE, said the old soldier, the +dwarf, &c. The PAUVRE HONTEUX could say nothing; - he pull'd out a +little handkerchief, and wiped his face as he turned away - and I +thought he thanked me more than them all. + + +THE BIDET. + + +HAVING settled all these little matters, I got into my post-chaise +with more ease than ever I got into a post-chaise in my life; and +La Fleur having got one large jack-boot on the far side of a little +BIDET, and another on this (for I count nothing of his legs) - he +canter'd away before me as happy and as perpendicular as a prince. +- But what is happiness! what is grandeur in this painted scene of +life! A dead ass, before we had got a league, put a sudden stop to +La Fleur's career; - his bidet would not pass by it, - a contention +arose betwixt them, and the poor fellow was kick'd out of his jack- +boots the very first kick. + +La Fleur bore his fall like a French Christian, saying neither more +nor less upon it, than DIABLE! So presently got up, and came to +the charge again astride his bidet, beating him up to it as he +would have beat his drum. + +The bidet flew from one side of the road to the other, then back +again, - then this way, then that way, and in short, every way but +by the dead ass: - La Fleur insisted upon the thing - and the bidet +threw him. + +What's the matter, La Fleur, said I, with this bidet of thine? +Monsieur, said he, C'EST UN CHEVAL LE PLUS OPINIATRE DU MONDE. - +Nay, if he is a conceited beast, he must go his own way, replied I. +So La Fleur got off him, and giving him a good sound lash, the +bidet took me at my word, and away he scampered back to Montreuil. +- PESTE! said La Fleur. + +It is not MAL-E-PROPOS to take notice here, that though La Fleur +availed himself but of two different terms of exclamation in this +encounter, - namely, DIABLE! and PESTE! that there are, +nevertheless, three in the French language: like the positive, +comparative, and superlative, one or the other of which serves for +every unexpected throw of the dice in life. + +LE DIABLE! which is the first, and positive degree, is generally +used upon ordinary emotions of the mind, where small things only +fall out contrary to your expectations; such as - the throwing once +doublets - La Fleur's being kick'd off his horse, and so forth. - +Cuckoldom, for the same reason, is always - LE DIABLE! + +But, in cases where the cast has something provoking in it, as in +that of the bidet's running away after, and leaving La Fleur +aground in jack-boots, - 'tis the second degree. + +'Tis then PESTE! + +And for the third - + +- But here my heart is wrung with pity and fellow feeling, when I +reflect what miseries must have been their lot, and how bitterly so +refined a people must have smarted, to have forced them upon the +use of it. - + +Grant me, O ye powers which touch the tongue with eloquence in +distress! - what ever is my CAST, grant me but decent words to +exclaim in, and I will give my nature way. + +- But as these were not to be had in France, I resolved to take +every evil just as it befell me, without any exclamation at all. + +La Fleur, who had made no such covenant with himself, followed the +bidet with his eyes till it was got out of sight, - and then, you +may imagine, if you please, with what word he closed the whole +affair. + +As there was no hunting down a frightened horse in jack-boots, +there remained no alternative but taking La Fleur either behind the +chaise, or into it. - + +I preferred the latter, and in half an hour we got to the post- +house at Nampont. + + +NAMPONT. THE DEAD ASS. + + +- AND this, said he, putting the remains of a crust into his wallet +- and this should have been thy portion, said he, hadst thou been +alive to have shared it with me. - I thought, by the accent, it had +been an apostrophe to his child; but 'twas to his ass, and to the +very ass we had seen dead in the road, which had occasioned La +Fleur's misadventure. The man seemed to lament it much; and it +instantly brought into my mind Sancho's lamentation for his; but he +did it with more true touches of nature. + +The mourner was sitting upon a stone bench at the door, with the +ass's pannel and its bridle on one side, which he took up from time +to time, - then laid them down, - look'd at them, and shook his +head. He then took his crust of bread out of his wallet again, as +if to eat it; held it some time in his hand, - then laid it upon +the bit of his ass's bridle, - looked wistfully at the little +arrangement he had made - and then gave a sigh. + +The simplicity of his grief drew numbers about him, and La Fleur +amongst the rest, whilst the horses were getting ready; as I +continued sitting in the post-chaise, I could see and hear over +their heads. + +- He said he had come last from Spain, where he had been from the +furthest borders of Franconia; and had got so far on his return +home, when his ass died. Every one seemed desirous to know what +business could have taken so old and poor a man so far a journey +from his own home. + +It had pleased heaven, he said, to bless him with three sons, the +finest lads in Germany; but having in one week lost two of the +eldest of them by the small-pox, and the youngest falling ill of +the same distemper, he was afraid of being bereft of them all; and +made a vow, if heaven would not take him from him also, he would go +in gratitude to St. Iago in Spain. + +When the mourner got thus far on his story, he stopp'd to pay +Nature her tribute, - and wept bitterly. + +He said, heaven had accepted the conditions; and that he had set +out from his cottage with this poor creature, who had been a +patient partner of his journey; - that it had eaten the same bread +with him all the way, and was unto him as a friend. + +Every body who stood about, heard the poor fellow with concern. - +La Fleur offered him money. - The mourner said he did not want it; +- it was not the value of the ass - but the loss of him. - The ass, +he said, he was assured, loved him; - and upon this told them a +long story of a mischance upon their passage over the Pyrenean +mountains, which had separated them from each other three days; +during which time the ass had sought him as much as he had sought +the ass, and that they had scarce either eaten or drank till they +met. + +Thou hast one comfort, friend, said I, at least, in the loss of thy +poor beast; I'm sure thou hast been a merciful master to him. - +Alas! said the mourner, I thought so when he was alive; - but now +that he is dead, I think otherwise. - I fear the weight of myself +and my afflictions together have been too much for him, - they have +shortened the poor creature's days, and I fear I have them to +answer for. - Shame on the world! said I to myself. - Did we but +love each other as this poor soul loved his ass - 'twould be +something. - + + +NAMPONT. THE POSTILION. + + +THE concern which the poor fellow's story threw me into required +some attention; the postilion paid not the least to it, but set off +upon the PAVE in a full gallop. + +The thirstiest soul in the most sandy desert of Arabia could not +have wished more for a cup of cold water, than mine did for grave +and quiet movements; and I should have had an high opinion of the +postilion had he but stolen off with me in something like a pensive +pace. - On the contrary, as the mourner finished his lamentation, +the fellow gave an unfeeling lash to each of his beasts, and set +off clattering like a thousand devils. + +I called to him as loud as I could, for heaven's sake to go slower: +- and the louder I called, the more unmercifully he galloped. - The +deuce take him and his galloping too - said I, - he'll go on +tearing my nerves to pieces till he has worked me into a foolish +passion, and then he'll go slow that I may enjoy the sweets of it. + +The postilion managed the point to a miracle: by the time he had +got to the foot of a steep hill, about half a league from Nampont, +- he had put me out of temper with him, - and then with myself, for +being so. + +My case then required a different treatment; and a good rattling +gallop would have been of real service to me. - + +- Then, prithee, get on - get on, my good lad, said I. + +The postilion pointed to the hill. - I then tried to return back to +the story of the poor German and his ass - but I had broke the +clue, - and could no more get into it again, than the postilion +could into a trot. + +- The deuce go, said I, with it all! Here am I sitting as candidly +disposed to make the best of the worst, as ever wight was, and all +runs counter. + +There is one sweet lenitive at least for evils, which Nature holds +out to us: so I took it kindly at her hands, and fell asleep; and +the first word which roused me was AMIENS. + +- Bless me! said I, rubbing my eyes, - this is the very town where +my poor lady is to come. + + +AMIENS. + + +THE words were scarce out of my mouth when the Count de L-'s post- +chaise, with his sister in it, drove hastily by: she had just time +to make me a bow of recognition, - and of that particular kind of +it, which told me she had not yet done with me. She was as good as +her look; for, before I had quite finished my supper, her brother's +servant came into the room with a billet, in which she said she had +taken the liberty to charge me with a letter, which I was to +present myself to Madame R- the first morning I had nothing to do +at Paris. There was only added, she was sorry, but from what +PENCHANT she had not considered, that she had been prevented +telling me her story, - that she still owed it to me; and if my +route should ever lay through Brussels, and I had not by then +forgot the name of Madame de L-, - that Madame de L- would be glad +to discharge her obligation. + +Then I will meet thee, said I, fair spirit! at Brussels; - 'tis +only returning from Italy through Germany to Holland, by the route +of Flanders, home; - 'twill scarce be ten posts out of my way; but, +were it ten thousand! with what a moral delight will it crown my +journey, in sharing in the sickening incidents of a tale of misery +told to me by such a sufferer? To see her weep! and, though I +cannot dry up the fountain of her tears, what an exquisite +sensation is there still left, in wiping them away from off the +cheeks of the first and fairest of women, as I'm sitting with my +handkerchief in my hand in silence the whole night beside her? + +There was nothing wrong in the sentiment; and yet I instantly +reproached my heart with it in the bitterest and most reprobate of +expressions. + +It had ever, as I told the reader, been one of the singular +blessings of my life, to be almost every hour of it miserably in +love with some one; and my last flame happening to be blown out by +a whiff of jealousy on the sudden turn of a corner, I had lighted +it up afresh at the pure taper of Eliza but about three months +before, - swearing, as I did it, that it should last me through the +whole journey. - Why should I dissemble the matter? I had sworn to +her eternal fidelity; - she had a right to my whole heart: - to +divide my affections was to lessen them; - to expose them was to +risk them: where there is risk there may be loss: - and what wilt +thou have, Yorick, to answer to a heart so full of trust and +confidence - so good, so gentle, and unreproaching! + +- I will not go to Brussels, replied I, interrupting myself. - But +my imagination went on, - I recalled her looks at that crisis of +our separation, when neither of us had power to say adieu! I +look'd at the picture she had tied in a black riband about my neck, +- and blush'd as I look'd at it. - I would have given the world to +have kiss'd it, - but was ashamed. - And shall this tender flower, +said I, pressing it between my hands, - shall it be smitten to its +very root, - and smitten, Yorick! by thee, who hast promised to +shelter it in thy breast? + +Eternal Fountain of Happiness! said I, kneeling down upon the +ground, - be thou my witness - and every pure spirit which tastes +it, be my witness also, That I would not travel to Brussels, unless +Eliza went along with me, did the road lead me towards heaven! + +In transports of this kind, the heart, in spite of the +understanding, will always say too much. + + +THE LETTER. AMIENS. + + +FORTUNE had not smiled upon La Fleur; for he had been unsuccessful +in his feats of chivalry, - and not one thing had offered to +signalise his zeal for my service from the time that he had entered +into it, which was almost four-and-twenty hours. The poor soul +burn'd with impatience; and the Count de L-'s servant coming with +the letter, being the first practicable occasion which offer'd, La +Fleur had laid hold of it; and, in order to do honour to his +master, had taken him into a back parlour in the auberge, and +treated him with a cup or two of the best wine in Picardy; and the +Count de L-'s servant, in return, and not to be behindhand in +politeness with La Fleur, had taken him back with him to the +Count's hotel. La Fleur's PREVENANCY (for there was a passport in +his very looks) soon set every servant in the kitchen at ease with +him; and as a Frenchman, whatever be his talents, has no sort of +prudery in showing them, La Fleur, in less than five minutes, had +pulled out his fife, and leading off the dance himself with the +first note, set the FILLE DE CHAMBRE, the MAITRE D'HOTEL, the cook, +the scullion, and all the house-hold, dogs and cats, besides an old +monkey, a dancing: I suppose there never was a merrier kitchen +since the flood. + +Madame de L-, in passing from her brother's apartments to her own, +hearing so much jollity below stairs, rung up her FILLE DE CHAMBRE +to ask about it; and, hearing it was the English gentleman's +servant, who had set the whole house merry with his pipe, she +ordered him up. + +As the poor fellow could not present himself empty, he had loaded +himself in going up stairs with a thousand compliments to Madame de +L-, on the part of his master, - added a long apocrypha of +inquiries after Madame de L-'s health, - told her, that Monsieur +his master was AU DESESPOIRE for her re-establishment from the +fatigues of her journey, - and, to close all, that Monsieur had +received the letter which Madame had done him the honour - And he +has done me the honour, said Madame de L-, interrupting La Fleur, +to send a billet in return. + +Madame de L- had said this with such a tone of reliance upon the +fact, that La Fleur had not power to disappoint her expectations; - +he trembled for my honour, - and possibly might not altogether be +unconcerned for his own, as a man capable of being attached to a +master who could be wanting EN EGARDS VIS E VIS D'UNE FEMME! so +that when Madame de L- asked La Fleur if he had brought a letter, - +O QU'OUI, said La Fleur: so laying down his hat upon the ground, +and taking hold of the flap of his right side pocket with his left +hand, he began to search for the letter with his right; - then +contrariwise. - DIABLE! then sought every pocket - pocket by +pocket, round, not forgetting his fob: - PESTE! - then La Fleur +emptied them upon the floor, - pulled out a dirty cravat, - a +handkerchief, - a comb, - a whip lash, - a nightcap, - then gave a +peep into his hat, - QUELLE ETOURDERIE! He had left the letter +upon the table in the auberge; - he would run for it, and be back +with it in three minutes. + +I had just finished my supper when La Fleur came in to give me an +account of his adventure: he told the whole story simply as it was: +and only added that if Monsieur had forgot (PAR HAZARD) to answer +Madame's letter, the arrangement gave him an opportunity to recover +the FAUX PAS; - and if not, that things were only as they were. + +Now I was not altogether sure of my ETIQUETTE, whether I ought to +have wrote or no; - but if I had, - a devil himself could not have +been angry: 'twas but the officious zeal of a well meaning creature +for my honour; and, however he might have mistook the road, - or +embarrassed me in so doing, - his heart was in no fault, - I was +under no necessity to write; - and, what weighed more than all, - +he did not look as if he had done amiss. + +- 'Tis all very well, La Fleur, said I. - 'Twas sufficient. La +Fleur flew out of the room like lightning, and returned with pen, +ink, and paper, in his hand; and, coming up to the table, laid them +close before me, with such a delight in his countenance, that I +could not help taking up the pen. + +I began and began again; and, though I had nothing to say, and that +nothing might have been expressed in half a dozen lines, I made +half a dozen different beginnings, and could no way please myself. + +In short, I was in no mood to write. + +La Fleur stepp'd out and brought a little water in a glass to +dilute my ink, - then fetch'd sand and seal-wax. - It was all one; +I wrote, and blotted, and tore off, and burnt, and wrote again. - +LE DIABLE L'EMPORTE! said I, half to myself, - I cannot write this +self-same letter, throwing the pen down despairingly as I said it. + +As soon as I had cast down my pen, La Fleur advanced with the most +respectful carriage up to the table, and making a thousand +apologies for the liberty he was going to take, told me he had a +letter in his pocket wrote by a drummer in his regiment to a +corporal's wife, which he durst say would suit the occasion. + +I had a mind to let the poor fellow have his humour. - Then +prithee, said I, let me see it. + +La Fleur instantly pulled out a little dirty pocket book cramm'd +full of small letters and billet-doux in a sad condition, and +laying it upon the table, and then untying the string which held +them all together, run them over, one by one, till he came to the +letter in question, - LA VOILA! said he, clapping his hands: so, +unfolding it first, he laid it open before me, and retired three +steps from the table whilst I read it. + + +THE LETTER. + + +Madame, + +JE suis penetre de la douleur la plus vive, et reduit en meme temps +au desespoir par ce retour imprevu du Caporal qui rend notre +entrevue de ce soir la chose du monde la plus impossible. + +Mais vive la joie! et toute la mienne sera de penser e vous. + +L'amour n'est RIEN sans sentiment. + +Et le sentiment est encore MOINS sans amour. + +On dit qu'on ne doit jamais se desesperer. + +On dit aussi que Monsieur le Caporal monte la garde Mercredi: alors +ce cera mon tour. + +CHACUN E SON TOUR. + +En attendant - Vive l'amour! et vive la bagatelle! + +Je suis, Madame, + +Avec tous les sentimens les plus respectueux et les plus tendres, + +tout e vous, + +JAQUES ROQUE. + + +It was but changing the Corporal into the Count, - and saying +nothing about mounting guard on Wednesday, - and the letter was +neither right nor wrong: - so, to gratify the poor fellow, who +stood trembling for my honour, his own, and the honour of his +letter, - I took the cream gently off it, and whipping it up in my +own way, I seal'd it up and sent him with it to Madame de L-; - and +the next morning we pursued our journey to Paris. + + +PARIS. + + +WHEN a man can contest the point by dint of equipage, and carry all +on floundering before him with half a dozen of lackies and a couple +of cooks - 'tis very well in such a place as Paris, - he may drive +in at which end of a street he will. + +A poor prince who is weak in cavalry, and whose whole infantry does +not exceed a single man, had best quit the field, and signalize +himself in the cabinet, if he can get up into it; - I say UP INTO +IT - for there is no descending perpendicular amongst 'em with a +"ME VOICI! MES ENFANS" - here I am - whatever many may think. + +I own my first sensations, as soon as I was left solitary and alone +in my own chamber in the hotel, were far from being so flattering +as I had prefigured them. I walked up gravely to the window in my +dusty black coat, and looking through the glass saw all the world +in yellow, blue, and green, running at the ring of pleasure. - The +old with broken lances, and in helmets which had lost their +vizards; - the young in armour bright which shone like gold, +beplumed with each gay feather of the east, - all, - all, tilting +at it like fascinated knights in tournaments of yore for fame and +love. - + +Alas, poor Yorick! cried I, what art thou doing here? On the very +first onset of all this glittering clatter thou art reduced to an +atom; - seek, - seek some winding alley, with a tourniquet at the +end of it, where chariot never rolled or flambeau shot its rays; - +there thou mayest solace thy soul in converse sweet with some kind +grisette of a barber's wife, and get into such coteries! - + +- May I perish! if I do, said I, pulling out the letter which I had +to present to Madame de R- - I'll wait upon this lady, the very +first thing I do. So I called La Fleur to go seek me a barber +directly, - and come back and brush my coat. + + +THE WIG. PARIS. + + +WHEN the barber came, he absolutely refused to have any thing to do +with my wig: 'twas either above or below his art: I had nothing to +do but to take one ready made of his own recommendation. + +- But I fear, friend! said I, this buckle won't stand. - You may +emerge it, replied he, into the ocean, and it will stand. - + +What a great scale is every thing upon in this city thought I. - +The utmost stretch of an English periwig-maker's ideas could have +gone no further than to have "dipped it into a pail of water." - +What difference! 'tis like Time to Eternity! + +I confess I do hate all cold conceptions, as I do the puny ideas +which engender them; and am generally so struck with the great +works of nature, that for my own part, if I could help it, I never +would make a comparison less than a mountain at least. All that +can be said against the French sublime, in this instance of it, is +this: - That the grandeur is MORE in the WORD, and LESS in the +THING. No doubt, the ocean fills the mind with vast ideas; but +Paris being so far inland, it was not likely I should run post a +hundred miles out of it, to try the experiment; - the Parisian +barber meant nothing. - + +The pail of water standing beside the great deep, makes, certainly, +but a sorry figure in speech; - but, 'twill be said, - it has one +advantage - 'tis in the next room, and the truth of the buckle may +be tried in it, without more ado, in a single moment. + +In honest truth, and upon a more candid revision of the matter, THE +FRENCH EXPRESSION PROFESSES MORE THAN IT PERFORMS. + +I think I can see the precise and distinguishing marks of national +characters more in these nonsensical MINUTIAE than in the most +important matters of state; where great men of all nations talk and +stalk so much alike, that I would not give ninepence to choose +amongst them. + +I was so long in getting from under my barber's hands, that it was +too late to think of going with my letter to Madame R- that night: +but when a man is once dressed at all points for going out, his +reflections turn to little account; so taking down the name of the +Hotel de Modene, where I lodged, I walked forth without any +determination where to go; - I shall consider of that, said I, as I +walk along. + + +THE PULSE. PARIS. + + +HAIL, ye small sweet courtesies of life, for smooth do ye make the +road of it! like grace and beauty, which beget inclinations to love +at first sight: 'tis ye who open this door and let the stranger in. + +- Pray, Madame, said I, have the goodness to tell me which way I +must turn to go to the Opera Comique? - Most willingly, Monsieur, +said she, laying aside her work. - + +I had given a cast with my eye into half a dozen shops, as I came +along, in search of a face not likely to be disordered by such an +interruption: till at last, this, hitting my fancy, I had walked +in. + +She was working a pair of ruffles, as she sat in a low chair, on +the far side of the shop, facing the door. + +- TRES VOLONTIERS, most willingly, said she, laying her work down +upon a chair next her, and rising up from the low chair she was +sitting in, with so cheerful a movement, and so cheerful a look, +that had I been laying out fifty louis d'ors with her, I should +have said - "This woman is grateful." + +You must turn, Monsieur, said she, going with me to the door of the +shop, and pointing the way down the street I was to take, - you +must turn first to your left hand, - MAIS PRENEZ GARDE -there are +two turns; and be so good as to take the second - then go down a +little way and you'll see a church: and, when you are past it, give +yourself the trouble to turn directly to the right, and that will +lead you to the foot of the Pont Neuf, which you must cross - and +there any one will do himself the pleasure to show you. - + +She repeated her instructions three times over to me, with the same +goodnatur'd patience the third time as the first; - and if TONES +AND MANNERS have a meaning, which certainly they have, unless to +hearts which shut them out, - she seemed really interested that I +should not lose myself. + +I will not suppose it was the woman's beauty, notwithstanding she +was the handsomest grisette, I think, I ever saw, which had much to +do with the sense I had of her courtesy; only I remember, when I +told her how much I was obliged to her, that I looked very full in +her eyes, - and that I repeated my thanks as often as she had done +her instructions. + +I had not got ten paces from the door, before I found I had forgot +every tittle of what she had said; - so looking back, and seeing +her still standing in the door of the shop, as if to look whether I +went right or not, - I returned back to ask her, whether the first +turn was to my right or left, - for that I had absolutely forgot. - +Is it possible! said she, half laughing. 'Tis very possible, +replied I, when a man is thinking more of a woman than of her good +advice. + +As this was the real truth - she took it, as every woman takes a +matter of right, with a slight curtsey. + +- ATTENDEZ! said she, laying her hand upon my arm to detain me, +whilst she called a lad out of the back shop to get ready a parcel +of gloves. I am just going to send him, said she, with a packet +into that quarter, and if you will have the complaisance to step +in, it will be ready in a moment, and he shall attend you to the +place. - So I walk'd in with her to the far side of the shop: and +taking up the ruffle in my hand which she laid upon the chair, as +if I had a mind to sit, she sat down herself in her low chair, and +I instantly sat myself down beside her. + +- He will be ready, Monsieur, said she, in a moment. - And in that +moment, replied I, most willingly would I say something very civil +to you for all these courtesies. Any one may do a casual act of +good nature, but a continuation of them shows it is a part of the +temperature; and certainly, added I, if it is the same blood which +comes from the heart which descends to the extremes (touching her +wrist) I am sure you must have one of the best pulses of any woman +in the world. - Feel it, said she, holding out her arm. So laying +down my hat, I took hold of her fingers in one hand, and applied +the two forefingers of my other to the artery. - + +- Would to heaven! my dear Eugenius, thou hadst passed by, and +beheld me sitting in my black coat, and in my lack-a-day-sical +manner, counting the throbs of it, one by one, with as much true +devotion as if I had been watching the critical ebb or flow of her +fever. - How wouldst thou have laugh'd and moralized upon my new +profession! - and thou shouldst have laugh'd and moralized on. - +Trust me, my dear Eugenius, I should have said, "There are worse +occupations in this world THAN FEELING A WOMAN'S PULSE." - But a +grisette's! thou wouldst have said, - and in an open shop! Yorick +- + +- So much the better: for when my views are direct, Eugenius, I +care not if all the world saw me feel it. + + +THE HUSBAND. PARIS. + + +I HAD counted twenty pulsations, and was going on fast towards the +fortieth, when her husband, coming unexpected from a back parlour +into the shop, put me a little out of my reckoning. - 'Twas nobody +but her husband, she said; - so I began a fresh score. - Monsieur +is so good, quoth she, as he pass'd by us, as to give himself the +trouble of feeling my pulse. - The husband took off his hat, and +making me a bow, said, I did him too much honour - and having said +that, he put on his hat and walk'd out. + +Good God! said I to myself, as he went out, - and can this man be +the husband of this woman! + +Let it not torment the few who know what must have been the grounds +of this exclamation, if I explain it to those who do not. + +In London a shopkeeper and a shopkeeper's wife seem to be one bone +and one flesh: in the several endowments of mind and body, +sometimes the one, sometimes the other has it, so as, in general, +to be upon a par, and totally with each other as nearly as man and +wife need to do. + +In Paris, there are scarce two orders of beings more different: for +the legislative and executive powers of the shop not resting in the +husband, he seldom comes there: - in some dark and dismal room +behind, he sits commerce-less, in his thrum nightcap, the same +rough son of Nature that Nature left him. + +The genius of a people, where nothing but the monarchy is SALIQUE, +having ceded this department, with sundry others, totally to the +women, - by a continual higgling with customers of all ranks and +sizes from morning to night, like so many rough pebbles shook long +together in a bag, by amicable collisions they have worn down their +asperities and sharp angles, and not only become round and smooth, +but will receive, some of them, a polish like a brilliant: - +Monsieur LE MARI is little better than the stone under your foot. + +- Surely, - surely, man! it is not good for thee to sit alone: - +thou wast made for social intercourse and gentle greetings; and +this improvement of our natures from it I appeal to as my evidence. + +- And how does it beat, Monsieur? said she. - With all the +benignity, said I, looking quietly in her eyes, that I expected. - +She was going to say something civil in return - but the lad came +into the shop with the gloves. - A PROPOS, said I, I want a couple +of pairs myself. + + +THE GLOVES. PARIS. + + +THE beautiful grisette rose up when I said this, and going behind +the counter, reach'd down a parcel and untied it: I advanced to the +side over against her: they were all too large. The beautiful +grisette measured them one by one across my hand. - It would not +alter their dimensions. - She begg'd I would try a single pair, +which seemed to be the least. - She held it open; - my hand slipped +into it at once. - It will not do, said I, shaking my head a +little. - No, said she, doing the same thing. + +There are certain combined looks of simple subtlety, - where whim, +and sense, and seriousness, and nonsense, are so blended, that all +the languages of Babel set loose together, could not express them; +- they are communicated and caught so instantaneously, that you can +scarce say which party is the infector. I leave it to your men of +words to swell pages about it - it is enough in the present to say +again, the gloves would not do; so, folding our hands within our +arms, we both lolled upon the counter - it was narrow, and there +was just room for the parcel to lay between us. + +The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then +sideways to the window, then at the gloves, - and then at me. I +was not disposed to break silence: - I followed her example: so, I +looked at the gloves, then to the window, then at the gloves, and +then at her, - and so on alternately. + +I found I lost considerably in every attack: - she had a quick +black eye, and shot through two such long and silken eyelashes with +such penetration, that she look'd into my very heart and reins. - +It may seem strange, but I could actually feel she did. - + +It is no matter, said I, taking up a couple of the pairs next me, +and putting them into my pocket. + +I was sensible the beautiful grisette had not asked above a single +livre above the price. - I wish'd she had asked a livre more, and +was puzzling my brains how to bring the matter about. - Do you +think, my dear Sir, said she, mistaking my embarrassment, that I +could ask a sous too much of a stranger - and of a stranger whose +politeness, more than his want of gloves, has done me the honour to +lay himself at my mercy? - M'EN CROYEZ CAPABLE? - Faith! not I, +said I; and if you were, you are welcome. So counting the money +into her hand, and with a lower bow than one generally makes to a +shopkeeper's wife, I went out, and her lad with his parcel followed +me. + + +THE TRANSLATION. PARIS. + + +THERE was nobody in the box I was let into but a kindly old French +officer. I love the character, not only because I honour the man +whose manners are softened by a profession which makes bad men +worse; but that I once knew one, - for he is no more, - and why +should I not rescue one page from violation by writing his name in +it, and telling the world it was Captain Tobias Shandy, the dearest +of my flock and friends, whose philanthropy I never think of at +this long distance from his death - but my eyes gush out with +tears. For his sake I have a predilection for the whole corps of +veterans; and so I strode over the two back rows of benches and +placed myself beside him. + +The old officer was reading attentively a small pamphlet, it might +be the book of the opera, with a large pair of spectacles. As soon +as I sat down, he took his spectacles off, and putting them into a +shagreen case, return'd them and the book into his pocket together. +I half rose up, and made him a bow. + +Translate this into any civilized language in the world - the sense +is this: + +"Here's a poor stranger come into the box - he seems as if he knew +nobody; and is never likely, was he to be seven years in Paris, if +every man he comes near keeps his spectacles upon his nose: - 'tis +shutting the door of conversation absolutely in his face - and +using him worse than a German." + +The French officer might as well have said it all aloud: and if he +had, I should in course have put the bow I made him into French +too, and told him, "I was sensible of his attention, and return'd +him a thousand thanks for it." + +There is not a secret so aiding to the progress of sociality, as to +get master of this SHORT HAND, and to be quick in rendering the +several turns of looks and limbs with all their inflections and +delineations, into plain words. For my own part, by long habitude, +I do it so mechanically, that, when I walk the streets of London, I +go translating all the way; and have more than once stood behind in +the circle, where not three words have been said, and have brought +off twenty different dialogues with me, which I could have fairly +wrote down and sworn to. + +I was going one evening to Martini's concert at Milan, and, was +just entering the door of the hall, when the Marquisina di F- was +coming out in a sort of a hurry: - she was almost upon me before I +saw her; so I gave a spring to once side to let her pass. - She had +done the same, and on the same side too; so we ran our heads +together: she instantly got to the other side to get out: I was +just as unfortunate as she had been, for I had sprung to that side, +and opposed her passage again. - We both flew together to the other +side, and then back, - and so on: - it was ridiculous: we both +blush'd intolerably: so I did at last the thing I should have done +at first; - I stood stock-still, and the Marquisina had no more +difficulty. I had no power to go into the room, till I had made +her so much reparation as to wait and follow her with my eye to the +end of the passage. She look'd back twice, and walk'd along it +rather sideways, as if she would make room for any one coming up +stairs to pass her. - No, said I - that's a vile translation: the +Marquisina has a right to the best apology I can make her, and that +opening is left for me to do it in; - so I ran and begg'd pardon +for the embarrassment I had given her, saying it was my intention +to have made her way. She answered, she was guided by the same +intention towards me; - so we reciprocally thank'd each other. She +was at the top of the stairs; and seeing no CICISBEO near her, I +begg'd to hand her to her coach; - so we went down the stairs, +stopping at every third step to talk of the concert and the +adventure. - Upon my word, Madame, said I, when I had handed her +in, I made six different efforts to let you go out. - And I made +six efforts, replied she, to let you enter. - I wish to heaven you +would make a seventh, said I. - With all my heart, said she, making +room. - Life is too short to be long about the forms of it, - so I +instantly stepp'd in, and she carried me home with her. - And what +became of the concert, St. Cecilia, who I suppose was at it, knows +more than I. + +I will only add, that the connexion which arose out of the +translation gave me more pleasure than any one I had the honour to +make in Italy. + + +THE DWARF. PARIS. + + +I HAD never heard the remark made by any one in my life, except by +one; and who that was will probably come out in this chapter; so +that being pretty much unprepossessed, there must have been grounds +for what struck me the moment I cast my eyes over the parterre, - +and that was, the unaccountable sport of Nature in forming such +numbers of dwarfs. - No doubt she sports at certain times in almost +every corner of the world; but in Paris there is no end to her +amusements. - The goddess seems almost as merry as she is wise. + +As I carried my idea out of the Opera Comique with me, I measured +every body I saw walking in the streets by it. - Melancholy +application! especially where the size was extremely little, - the +face extremely dark, - the eyes quick, - the nose long, - the teeth +white, - the jaw prominent, - to see so many miserables, by force +of accidents driven out of their own proper class into the very +verge of another, which it gives me pain to write down: - every +third man a pigmy! - some by rickety heads and hump backs; - others +by bandy legs; - a third set arrested by the hand of Nature in the +sixth and seventh years of their growth; - a fourth, in their +perfect and natural state like dwarf apple trees; from the first +rudiments and stamina of their existence, never meant to grow +higher. + +A Medical Traveller might say, 'tis owing to undue bandages; - a +Splenetic one, to want of air; - and an Inquisitive Traveller, to +fortify the system, may measure the height of their houses, - the +narrowness of their streets, and in how few feet square in the +sixth and seventh stories such numbers of the bourgeoisie eat and +sleep together; but I remember Mr. Shandy the elder, who accounted +for nothing like any body else, in speaking one evening of these +matters, averred that children, like other animals, might be +increased almost to any size, provided they came right into the +world; but the misery was, the citizens of were Paris so coop'd up, +that they had not actually room enough to get them. - I do not call +it getting anything, said he; - 'tis getting nothing. - Nay, +continued he, rising in his argument, 'tis getting worse than +nothing, when all you have got after twenty or five and twenty +years of the tenderest care and most nutritious aliment bestowed +upon it, shall not at last be as high as my leg. Now, Mr. Shandy +being very short, there could be nothing more said of it. + +As this is not a work of reasoning, I leave the solution as I found +it, and content myself with the truth only of the remark, which is +verified in every lane and by-lane of Paris. I was walking down +that which leads from the Carousal to the Palais Royal, and +observing a little boy in some distress at the side of the gutter +which ran down the middle of it, I took hold of his hand and help'd +him over. Upon turning up his face to look at him after, I +perceived he was about forty. - Never mind, said I, some good body +will do as much for me when I am ninety. + +I feel some little principles within me which incline me to be +merciful towards this poor blighted part of my species, who have +neither size nor strength to get on in the world. - I cannot bear +to see one of them trod upon; and had scarce got seated beside my +old French officer, ere the disgust was exercised, by seeing the +very thing happen under the box we sat in. + +At the end of the orchestra, and betwixt that and the first side +box, there is a small esplanade left, where, when the house is +full, numbers of all ranks take sanctuary. Though you stand, as in +the parterre, you pay the same price as in the orchestra. A poor +defenceless being of this order had got thrust somehow or other +into this luckless place; - the night was hot, and he was +surrounded by beings two feet and a half higher than himself. The +dwarf suffered inexpressibly on all sides; but the thing which +incommoded him most, was a tall corpulent German, near seven feet +high, who stood directly betwixt him and all possibility of his +seeing either the stage or the actors. The poor dwarf did all he +could to get a peep at what was going forwards, by seeking for some +little opening betwixt the German's arm and his body, trying first +on one side, then the other; but the German stood square in the +most unaccommodating posture that can be imagined: - the dwarf +might as well have been placed at the bottom of the deepest draw- +well in Paris; so he civilly reached up his hand to the German's +sleeve, and told him his distress. - The German turn'd his head +back, looked down upon him as Goliah did upon David, - and +unfeelingly resumed his posture. + +I was just then taking a pinch of snuff out of my monk's little +horn box. - And how would thy meek and courteous spirit, my dear +monk! so temper'd to BEAR AND FORBEAR! - how sweetly would it have +lent an ear to this poor soul's complaint! + +The old French officer, seeing me lift up my eyes with an emotion, +as I made the apostrophe, took the liberty to ask me what was the +matter? - I told him the story in three words; and added, how +inhuman it was. + +By this time the dwarf was driven to extremes, and in his first +transports, which are generally unreasonable, had told the German +he would cut off his long queue with his knife. - The German look'd +back coolly, and told him he was welcome, if he could reach it. + +An injury sharpen'd by an insult, be it to whom it will, makes +every man of sentiment a party: I could have leap'd out of the box +to have redressed it. - The old French officer did it with much +less confusion; for leaning a little over, and nodding to a +sentinel, and pointing at the same time with his finger at the +distress, - the sentinel made his way to it. - There was no +occasion to tell the grievance, - the thing told himself; so +thrusting back the German instantly with his musket, - he took the +poor dwarf by the hand, and placed him before him. - This is noble! +said I, clapping my hands together. - And yet you would not permit +this, said the old officer, in England. + +- In England, dear Sir, said I, WE SIT ALL AT OUR EASE. + +The old French officer would have set me at unity with myself, in +case I had been at variance, - by saying it was a BON MOT; - and, +as a BON MOT is always worth something at Paris, he offered me a +pinch of snuff. + + +THE ROSE. PARIS. + + +IT WAS now my turn to ask the old French officer "What was the +matter?" for a cry of "HAUSSEZ LES MAINS, MONSIEUR L'ABBE!" re- +echoed from a dozen different parts of the parterre, was as +unintelligible to me, as my apostrophe to the monk had been to him. + +He told me it was some poor Abbe in one of the upper loges, who, he +supposed, had got planted perdu behind a couple of grisettes in +order to see the opera, and that the parterre espying him, were +insisting upon his holding up both his hands during the +representation. - And can it be supposed, said I, that an +ecclesiastic would pick the grisettes' pockets? The old French +officer smiled, and whispering in my ear, opened a door of +knowledge which I had no idea of. + +Good God! said I, turning pale with astonishment - is it possible, +that a people so smit with sentiment should at the same time be so +unclean, and so unlike themselves, - QUELLE GROSSIERTE! added I. + +The French officer told me, it was an illiberal sarcasm at the +church, which had begun in the theatre about the time the Tartuffe +was given in it by Moliere: but like other remains of Gothic +manners, was declining. - Every nation, continued he, have their +refinements and GROSSIERTES, in which they take the lead, and lose +it of one another by turns: - that he had been in most countries, +but never in one where he found not some delicacies, which others +seemed to want. LE POUR ET LE CONTRE SE TROUVENT EN CHAQUE NATION; +there is a balance, said he, of good and bad everywhere; and +nothing but the knowing it is so, can emancipate one half of the +world from the prepossession which it holds against the other: - +that the advantage of travel, as it regarded the SCAVOIR VIVRE, was +by seeing a great deal both of men and manners; it taught us mutual +toleration; and mutual toleration, concluded he, making me a bow, +taught us mutual love. + +The old French officer delivered this with an air of such candour +and good sense, as coincided with my first favourable impressions +of his character: - I thought I loved the man; but I fear I mistook +the object; - 'twas my own way of thinking - the difference was, I +could not have expressed it half so well. + +It is alike troublesome to both the rider and his beast, - if the +latter goes pricking up his ears, and starting all the way at every +object which he never saw before. - I have as little torment of +this kind as any creature alive; and yet I honestly confess, that +many a thing gave me pain, and that I blush'd at many a word the +first month, - which I found inconsequent and perfectly innocent +the second. + +Madame do Rambouliet, after an acquaintance of about six weeks with +her, had done me the honour to take me in her coach about two +leagues out of town. - Of all women, Madame de Rambouliet is the +most correct; and I never wish to see one of more virtues and +purity of heart. - In our return back, Madame de Rambouliet desired +me to pull the cord. - I asked her if she wanted anything - RIEN +QUE POUR PISSER, said Madame de Rambouliet. + +Grieve not, gentle traveller, to let Madame de Rambouliet p-ss on. +- And, ye fair mystic nymphs! go each one PLUCK YOUR ROSE, and +scatter them in your path, - for Madame de Rambouliet did no more. +- I handed Madame de Rambouliet out of the coach; and had I been +the priest of the chaste Castalia, I could not have served at her +fountain with a more respectful decorum. + + +THE FILLE DE CHAMBRE. PARIS. + + +WHAT the old French officer had delivered upon travelling, bringing +Polonius's advice to his son upon the same subject into my head, - +and that bringing in Hamlet, and Hamlet the rest of Shakespeare's +works, I stopp'd at the Quai de Conti in my return home, to +purchase the whole set. + +The bookseller said he had not a set in the world. COMMENT! said +I, taking one up out of a set which lay upon the counter betwixt +us. - He said they were sent him only to be got bound, and were to +be sent back to Versailles in the morning to the Count de B-. + +- And does the Count de B-, said I, read Shakespeare? C'EST UN +ESPRIT FORT, replied the bookseller. - He loves English books! and +what is more to his honour, Monsieur, he loves the English too. +You speak this so civilly, said I, that it is enough to oblige an +Englishman to lay out a louis d'or or two at your shop. - The +bookseller made a bow, and was going to say something, when a young +decent girl about twenty, who by her air and dress seemed to be +FILLE DE CHAMBRE to some devout woman of fashion, come into the +shop and asked for LES EGAREMENTS DU COEUR ET DE L'ESPRIT: the +bookseller gave her the book directly; she pulled out a little +green satin purse run round with a riband of the same colour, and +putting her finger and thumb into it, she took out the money and +paid for it. As I had nothing more to stay me in the shop, we both +walk'd out at the door together. + +- And what have you to do, my dear, said I, with THE WANDERINGS OF +THE HEART, who scarce know yet you have one? nor, till love has +first told you it, or some faithless shepherd has made it ache, +canst thou ever be sure it is so. - LE DIEU M'EN GARDE! said the +girl. - With reason, said I, for if it is a good one, 'tis pity it +should be stolen; 'tis a little treasure to thee, and gives a +better air to your face, than if it was dress'd out with pearls. + +The young girl listened with a submissive attention, holding her +satin purse by its riband in her hand all the time. - 'Tis a very +small one, said I, taking hold of the bottom of it - she held it +towards me - and there is very little in it, my dear, said I; but +be but as good as thou art handsome, and heaven will fill it. I +had a parcel of crowns in my hand to pay for Shakespeare; and, as +she had let go the purse entirely, I put a single one in; and, +tying up the riband in a bow-knot, returned it to her. + +The young girl made me more a humble courtesy than a low one: - +'twas one of those quiet, thankful sinkings, where the spirit bows +itself down, - the body does no more than tell it. I never gave a +girl a crown in my life which gave me half the pleasure. + +My advice, my dear, would not have been worth a pin to you, said I, +if I had not given this along with it: but now, when you see the +crown, you'll remember it; - so don't, my dear, lay it out in +ribands. + +Upon my word, Sir, said the girl, earnestly, I am incapable; - in +saying which, as is usual in little bargains of honour, she gave me +her hand: - EN VERITE, MONSIEUR, JE METTRAI CET ARGENT EPART, said +she. + +When a virtuous convention is made betwixt man and woman, it +sanctifies their most private walks: so, notwithstanding it was +dusky, yet as both our roads lay the same way, we made no scruple +of walking along the Quai de Conti together. + +She made me a second courtesy in setting off, and before we got +twenty yards from the door, as if she had not done enough before, +she made a sort of a little stop to tell me again - she thank'd me. + +It was a small tribute, I told her, which I could not avoid paying +to virtue, and would not be mistaken in the person I had been +rendering it to for the world; - but I see innocence, my dear, in +your face, - and foul befall the man who ever lays a snare in its +way! + +The girl seem'd affected some way or other with what I said; - she +gave a low sigh: - I found I was not empowered to enquire at all +after it, - so said nothing more till I got to the corner of the +Rue de Nevers, where, we were to part. + +- But is this the way, my dear, said I, to the Hotel de Modene? +She told me it was; - or that I might go by the Rue de Gueneguault, +which was the next turn. - Then I'll go, my dear, by the Rue de +Gueneguault, said I, for two reasons; first, I shall please myself, +and next, I shall give you the protection of my company as far on +your way as I can. The girl was sensible I was civil - and said, +she wished the Hotel de Modene was in the Rue de St. Pierre. - You +live there? said I. - She told me she was FILLE DE CHAMBRE to +Madame R-. - Good God! said I, 'tis the very lady for whom I have +brought a letter from Amiens. - The girl told me that Madame R-, +she believed, expected a stranger with a letter, and was impatient +to see him: - so I desired the girl to present my compliments to +Madame R-, and say, I would certainly wait upon her in the morning. + +We stood still at the corner of the Rue de Nevers whilst this +pass'd. - We then stopped a moment whilst she disposed of her +EGAREMENTS DU COEUR &c. more commodiously than carrying them in her +hand - they were two volumes: so I held the second for her whilst +she put the first into her pocket; and then she held her pocket, +and I put in the other after it. + +'Tis sweet to feel by what fine spun threads our affections are +drawn together. + +We set off afresh, and as she took her third step, the girl put her +hand within my arm. - I was just bidding her, - but she did it of +herself, with that undeliberating simplicity, which show'd it was +out of her head that she had never seen me before. For my own +part, I felt the conviction of consanguinity so strongly, that I +could not help turning half round to look in her face, and see if I +could trace out any thing in it of a family likeness. - Tut! said +I, are we not all relations? + +When we arrived at the turning up of the Rue de Gueneguault, I +stopp'd to bid her adieu for good and all: the girl would thank me +again for my company and kindness. - She bid me adieu twice. - I +repeated it as often; and so cordial was the parting between us, +that had it happened any where else, I'm not sure but I should have +signed it with a kiss of charity, as warm and holy as an apostle. + +But in Paris, as none kiss each other but the men, - I did, what +amounted to the same thing - + +- I bid God bless her. + + +THE PASSPORT. PARIS. + + +WHEN I got home to my hotel, La Fleur told me I had been enquired +after by the Lieutenant de Police. - The deuce take it! said I, - I +know the reason. It is time the reader should know it, for in the +order of things in which it happened, it was omitted: not that it +was out of my head; but that had I told it then it might have been +forgotten now; - and now is the time I want it. + +I had left London with so much precipitation, that it never enter'd +my mind that we were at war with France; and had reached Dover, and +looked through my glass at the hills beyond Boulogne, before the +idea presented itself; and with this in its train, that there was +no getting there without a passport. Go but to the end of a +street, I have a mortal aversion for returning back no wiser than I +set out; and as this was one of the greatest efforts I had ever +made for knowledge, I could less bear the thoughts of it: so +hearing the Count de - had hired the packet, I begg'd he would take +me in his suite. The Count had some little knowledge of me, so +made little or no difficulty, - only said, his inclination to serve +me could reach no farther than Calais, as he was to return by way +of Brussels to Paris; however, when I had once pass'd there, I +might get to Paris without interruption; but that in Paris I must +make friends and shift for myself. - Let me get to Paris, Monsieur +le Count, said I, - and I shall do very well. So I embark'd, and +never thought more of the matter. + +When La Fleur told me the Lieutenant de Police had been enquiring +after me, - the thing instantly recurred; - and by the time La +Fleur had well told me, the master of the hotel came into my room +to tell me the same thing, with this addition to it, that my +passport had been particularly asked after: the master of the hotel +concluded with saying, He hoped I had one. - Not I, faith! said I. + +The master of the hotel retired three steps from me, as from an +infected person, as I declared this; - and poor La Fleur advanced +three steps towards me, and with that sort of movement which a good +soul makes to succour a distress'd one: - the fellow won my heart +by it; and from that single trait I knew his character as +perfectly, and could rely upon it as firmly, as if he had served me +with fidelity for seven years. + +MON SEIGNEUR! cried the master of the hotel; but recollecting +himself as he made the exclamation, he instantly changed the tone +of it. - If Monsieur, said he, has not a passport (APPAREMMENT) in +all likelihood he has friends in Paris who can procure him one. - +Not that I know of, quoth I, with an air of indifference. - Then +CERTES, replied he, you'll be sent to the Bastile or the Chatelet +AU MOINS. - Poo! said I, the King of France is a good natur'd soul: +- he'll hurt nobody. - CELA N'EMPECHE PAS, said he - you will +certainly be sent to the Bastile to-morrow morning. - But I've +taken your lodgings for a month, answer'd I, and I'll not quit them +a day before the time for all the kings of France in the world. La +Fleur whispered in my ear, That nobody could oppose the king of +France. + +PARDI! said my host, CES MESSIEURS ANGLOIS SONT DES GENS TRES +EXTRAORDINAIRES; - and, having both said and sworn it, - he went +out. + + +THE PASSPORT. THE HOTEL AT PARIS. + + +I COULD not find in my heart to torture La Fleur's with a serious +look upon the subject of my embarrassment, which was the reason I +had treated it so cavalierly: and to show him how light it lay upon +my mind, I dropt the subject entirely; and whilst he waited upon me +at supper, talk'd to him with more than usual gaiety about Paris, +and of the Opera Comique. - La Fleur had been there himself, and +had followed me through the streets as far as the bookseller's +shop; but seeing me come out with the young FILLE DE CHAMBRE, and +that we walk'd down the Quai de Conti together, La Fleur deem'd it +unnecessary to follow me a step further; - so making his own +reflections upon it, he took a shorter cut, - and got to the hotel +in time to be inform'd of the affair of the police against my +arrival. + +As soon as the honest creature had taken away, and gone down to sup +himself, I then began to think a little seriously about my +situation. - + +- And here, I know, Eugenius, thou wilt smile at the remembrance of +a short dialogue which passed betwixt us the moment I was going to +set out: - I must tell it here. + +Eugenius, knowing that I was as little subject to be overburden'd +with money as thought, had drawn me aside to interrogate me how +much I had taken care for. Upon telling him the exact sum, +Eugenius shook his head, and said it would not do; so pull'd out +his purse in order to empty it into mine. - I've enough in +conscience, Eugenius, said I. - Indeed, Yorick, you have not, +replied Eugenius; I know France and Italy better than you. - But +you don't consider, Eugenius, said I, refusing his offer, that +before I have been three days in Paris, I shall take care to say or +do something or other for which I shall get clapp'd up into the +Bastile, and that I shall live there a couple of months entirely at +the king of France's expense. - I beg pardon, said Eugenius drily: +really I had forgot that resource. + +Now the event I treated gaily came seriously to my door. + +Is it folly, or nonchalance, or philosophy, or pertinacity - or +what is it in me, that, after all, when La Fleur had gone down +stairs, and I was quite alone, I could not bring down my mind to +think of it otherwise than I had then spoken of it to Eugenius? + +- And as for the Bastile; the terror is in the word. - Make the +most of it you can, said I to myself, the Bastile is but another +word for a tower; - and a tower is but another word for a house you +can't get out of. - Mercy on the gouty! for they are in it twice a +year. - But with nine livres a day, and pen and ink, and paper, and +patience, albeit a man can't get out, he may do very well within, - +at least for a mouth or six weeks; at the end of which, if he is a +harmless fellow, his innocence appears, and he comes out a better +and wiser man than he went in. + +I had some occasion (I forget what) to step into the court-yard, as +I settled this account; and remember I walk'd down stairs in no +small triumph with the conceit of my reasoning. - Beshrew the +sombre pencil! said I, vauntingly - for I envy not its powers, +which paints the evils of life with so hard and deadly a colouring. +The mind sits terrified at the objects she has magnified herself, +and blackened: reduce them to their proper size and hue, she +overlooks them. - 'Tis true, said I, correcting the proposition, - +the Bastile is not an evil to be despised; - but strip it of its +towers - fill up the fosse, - unbarricade the doors - call it +simply a confinement, and suppose 'tis some tyrant of a distemper - +and not of a man, which holds you in it, - the evil vanishes, and +you bear the other half without complaint. + +I was interrupted in the heyday of this soliloquy, with a voice +which I took to be of a child, which complained "it could not get +out." - I look'd up and down the passage, and seeing neither man, +woman, nor child, I went out without farther attention. + +In my return back through the passage, I heard the same words +repeated twice over; and, looking up, I saw it was a starling hung +in a little cage. - "I can't get out, - I can't get out," said the +starling. + +I stood looking at the bird: and to every person who came through +the passage it ran fluttering to the side towards which they +approach'd it, with the same lamentation of its captivity. "I +can't get out," said the starling. - God help thee! said I, but +I'll let thee out, cost what it will; so I turned about the cage to +get to the door: it was twisted and double twisted so fast with +wire, there was no getting it open without pulling the cage to +pieces. - I took both hands to it. + +The bird flew to the place where I was attempting his deliverance, +and thrusting his head through the trellis pressed his breast +against it as if impatient. - I fear, poor creature! said I, I +cannot set thee at liberty. - "No," said the starling, - "I can't +get out - I can't get out," said the starling. + +I vow I never had my affections more tenderly awakened; nor do I +remember an incident in my life, where the dissipated spirits, to +which my reason had been a bubble, were so suddenly call'd home. +Mechanical as the notes were, yet so true in tune to nature were +they chanted, that in one moment they overthrew all my systematic +reasonings upon the Bastile; and I heavily walked upstairs, +unsaying every word I had said in going down them. + +Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, Slavery! said I, - still thou +art a bitter draught! and though thousands in all ages have been +made to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account. - +'Tis thou, thrice sweet and gracious goddess, addressing myself to +Liberty, whom all in public or in private worship, whose taste is +grateful, and ever will be so, till Nature herself shall change. - +No TINT of words can spot thy snowy mantle, or chymic power turn +thy sceptre into iron: - with thee to smile upon him as he eats his +crust, the swain is happier than his monarch, from whose court thou +art exiled! - Gracious Heaven! cried I, kneeling down upon the last +step but one in my ascent, grant me but health, thou great Bestower +of it, and give me but this fair goddess as my companion, - and +shower down thy mitres, if it seems good unto thy divine +providence, upon those heads which are aching for them! + + +THE CAPTIVE. PARIS. + + +THE bird in his cage pursued me into my room; I sat down close to +my table, and leaning my head upon my hand, I began to figure to +myself the miseries of confinement. I was in a right frame for it, +and so I gave full scope to my imagination. + +I was going to begin with the millions of my fellow-creatures born +to no inheritance but slavery: but finding, however affecting the +picture was, that I could not bring it near me, and that the +multitude of sad groups in it did but distract me. - + +- I took a single captive, and having first shut him up in his +dungeon, I then look'd through the twilight of his grated door to +take his picture. + +I beheld his body half-wasted away with long expectation and +confinement, and felt what kind of sickness of the heart it was +which arises from hope deferr'd. Upon looking nearer I saw him +pale and feverish: in thirty years the western breeze had not once +fann'd his blood; - he had seen no sun, no moon, in all that time - +nor had the voice of friend or kinsman breathed through his +lattice. - His children - + +But here my heart began to bleed - and I was forced to go on with +another part of the portrait. + +He was sitting upon the ground upon a little straw, in the furthest +corner of his dungeon, which was alternately his chair and bed: a +little calendar of small sticks were laid at the head, notch'd all +over with the dismal days and nights he had passed there; - he had +one of these little sticks in his hand, and, with a rusty nail he +was etching another day of misery to add to the heap. As I +darkened the little light he had, he lifted up a hopeless eye +towards the door, then cast it down, - shook his head, and went on +with his work of affliction. I heard his chains upon his legs, as +he turned his body to lay his little stick upon the bundle. - He +gave a deep sigh. - I saw the iron enter into his soul! - I burst +into tears. - I could not sustain the picture of confinement which +my fancy had drawn. - I started up from my chair, and calling La +Fleur: I bid him bespeak me a remise, and have it ready at the door +of the hotel by nine in the morning. + +I'll go directly, said I, myself to Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul. + +La Fleur would have put me to bed; but - not willing he should see +anything upon my cheek which would cost the honest fellow a heart- +ache, - I told him I would go to bed by myself, - and bid him go do +the same. + + +THE STARLING. ROAD TO VERSAILLES. + + +I GOT into my remise the hour I proposed: La Fleur got up behind, +and I bid the coachman make the best of his way to Versailles. + +As there was nothing in this road, or rather nothing which I look +for in travelling, I cannot fill up the blank better than with a +short history of this self-same bird, which became the subject of +the last chapter. + +Whilst the Honourable Mr. - was waiting for a wind at Dover, it had +been caught upon the cliffs, before it could well fly, by an +English lad who was his groom; who, not caring to destroy it, had +taken it in his breast into the packet; - and, by course of feeding +it, and taking it once under his protection, in a day or two grew +fond of it, and got it safe along with him to Paris. + +At Paris the lad had laid out a livre in a little cage for the +starling, and as he had little to do better the five months his +master staid there, he taught it, in his mother's tongue, the four +simple words - (and no more) - to which I own'd myself so much its +debtor. + +Upon his master's going on for Italy, the lad had given it to the +master of the hotel. But his little song for liberty being in an +UNKNOWN language at Paris, the bird had little or no store set by +him: so La Fleur bought both him and his cage for me for a bottle +of Burgundy. + +In my return from Italy I brought him with me to the country in +whose language he had learned his notes; and telling the story of +him to Lord A-, Lord A- begg'd the bird of me; - in a week Lord A- +gave him to Lord B-; Lord B- made a present of him to Lord C-; and +Lord C-'s gentleman sold him to Lord D-'s for a shilling; Lord D- +gave him to Lord E-; and so on - half round the alphabet. From +that rank he pass'd into the lower house, and pass'd the hands of +as many commoners. But as all these wanted to GET IN, and my bird +wanted to GET OUT, he had almost as little store set by him in +London as in Paris. + +It is impossible but many of my readers must have heard of him; and +if any by mere chance have ever seen him, I beg leave to inform +them, that that bird was my bird, or some vile copy set up to +represent him. + +I have nothing farther to add upon him, but that from that time to +this I have borne this poor starling as the crest to my arms. - +Thus: + +[Picture which cannot be reproduced] + +- And let the herald's officers twist his neck about if they dare. + + +THE ADDRESS. VERSAILLES. + + +I SHOULD not like to have my enemy take a view of my mind when I am +going to ask protection of any man; for which reason I generally +endeavour to protect myself; but this going to Monsieur le Duc de +C- was an act of compulsion; had it been an act of choice, I should +have done it, I suppose, like other people. + +How many mean plans of dirty address, as I went along, did my +servile heart form! I deserved the Bastile for every one of them. + +Then nothing would serve me when I got within sight of Versailles, +but putting words and sentences together, and conceiving attitudes +and tones to wreath myself into Monsieur le Duc de C-'s good +graces. - This will do, said I. - Just as well, retorted I again, +as a coat carried up to him by an adventurous tailor, without +taking his measure. Fool! continued I, - see Monsieur le Duc's +face first; - observe what character is written in it; - take +notice in what posture he stands to hear you; - mark the turns and +expressions of his body and limbs; - and for the tone, - the first +sound which comes from his lips will give it you; and from all +these together you'll compound an address at once upon the spot, +which cannot disgust the Duke; - the ingredients are his own, and +most likely to go down. + +Well! said I, I wish it well over. - Coward again! as if man to man +was not equal throughout the whole surface of the globe; and if in +the field - why not face to face in the cabinet too? And trust me, +Yorick, whenever it is not so, man is false to himself and betrays +his own succours ten times where nature does it once. Go to the +Duc de C- with the Bastile in thy looks; - my life for it, thou +wilt be sent back to Paris in half an hour with an escort. + +I believe so, said I. - Then I'll go to the Duke, by heaven! with +all the gaiety and debonairness in the world. - + +- And there you are wrong again, replied I. - A heart at ease, +Yorick, flies into no extremes - 'tis ever on its centre. - Well! +well! cried I, as the coachman turn'd in at the gates, I find I +shall do very well: and by the time he had wheel'd round the court, +and brought me up to the door, I found myself so much the better +for my own lecture, that I neither ascended the steps like a victim +to justice, who was to part with life upon the top most, - nor did +I mount them with a skip and a couple of strides, as I do when I +fly up, Eliza! to thee to meet it. + +As I entered the door of the saloon I was met by a person, who +possibly might be the MAITRE D'HOTEL, but had more the air of one +of the under secretaries, who told me the Duc de C- was busy. - I +am utterly ignorant, said I, of the forms of obtaining an audience, +being an absolute stranger, and what is worse in the present +conjuncture of affairs, being an Englishman too. - He replied, that +did not increase the difficulty. - I made him a slight bow, and +told him, I had something of importance to say to Monsieur le Duc. +The secretary look'd towards the stairs, as if he was about to +leave me to carry up this account to some one. - But I must not +mislead you, said I, - for what I have to say is of no manner of +importance to Monsieur le Duc de C- - but of great importance to +myself. - C'EST UNE AUTRE AFFAIRE, replied he. - Not at all, said +I, to a man of gallantry. - But pray, good sir, continued I, when +can a stranger hope to have access? - In not less than two hours, +said he, looking at his watch. The number of equipages in the +court-yard seemed to justify the calculation, that I could have no +nearer a prospect; - and as walking backwards and forwards in the +saloon, without a soul to commune with, was for the time as bad as +being in the Bastile itself, I instantly went back to my remise, +and bid the coachman drive me to the CORDON BLEU, which was the +nearest hotel. + +I think there is a fatality in it; - I seldom go to the place I set +out for. + + +LE PATISSIER. VERSAILLES. + + +BEFORE I had got half way down the street I changed my mind: as I +am at Versailles, thought I, I might as well take a view of the +town; so I pull'd the cord, and ordered the coachman to drive round +some of the principal streets. - I suppose the town is not very +large, said I. - The coachman begg'd pardon for setting me right, +and told me it was very superb, and that numbers of the first dukes +and marquises and counts had hotels. - The Count de B-, of whom the +bookseller at the Quai de Conti had spoke so handsomely the night +before, came instantly into my mind. - And why should I not go, +thought I, to the Count de B-, who has so high an idea of English +books and English men - and tell him my story? so I changed my mind +a second time. - In truth it was the third; for I had intended that +day for Madame de R-, in the Rue St. Pierre, and had devoutly sent +her word by her FILLE DE CHAMBRE that I would assuredly wait upon +her; - but I am governed by circumstances; - I cannot govern them: +so seeing a man standing with a basket on the other side of the +street, as if he had something to sell, I bid La Fleur go up to +him, and enquire for the Count's hotel. + +La Fleur returned a little pale; and told me it was a Chevalier de +St. Louis selling pates. - It is impossible, La Fleur, said I. - La +Fleur could no more account for the phenomenon than myself; but +persisted in his story: he had seen the croix set in gold, with its +red riband, he said, tied to his buttonhole - and had looked into +the basket and seen the pates which the Chevalier was selling; so +could not be mistaken in that. + +Such a reverse in man's life awakens a better principle than +curiosity: I could not help looking for some time at him as I sat +in the remise: - the more I look'd at him, his croix, and his +basket, the stronger they wove themselves into my brain. - I got +out of the remise, and went towards him. + +He was begirt with a clean linen apron which fell below his knees, +and with a sort of a bib that went half way up his breast; upon the +top of this, but a little below the hem, hung his croix. His +basket of little pates was covered over with a white damask napkin; +another of the same kind was spread at the bottom; and there was a +look of PROPRETE and neatness throughout, that one might have +bought his pates of him, as much from appetite as sentiment. + +He made an offer of them to neither; but stood still with them at +the corner of an hotel, for those to buy who chose it without +solicitation. + +He was about forty-eight; - of a sedate look, something approaching +to gravity. I did not wonder. - I went up rather to the basket +than him, and having lifted up the napkin, and taking one of his +pates into my hand, - I begg'd he would explain the appearance +which affected me. + +He told me in a few words, that the best part of his life had +passed in the service, in which, after spending a small patrimony, +he had obtained a company and the croix with it; but that, at the +conclusion of the last peace, his regiment being reformed, and the +whole corps, with those of some other regiments, left without any +provision, he found himself in a wide world without friends, +without a livre, - and indeed, said he, without anything but this, +- (pointing, as he said it, to his croix). - The poor Chevalier won +my pity, and he finished the scene with winning my esteem too. + +The king, he said, was the most generous of princes, but his +generosity could neither relieve nor reward everyone, and it was +only his misfortune to be amongst the number. He had a little +wife, he said, whom he loved, who did the PATISSERIE; and added, he +felt no dishonour in defending her and himself from want in this +way - unless Providence had offer'd him a better. + +It would be wicked to withhold a pleasure from the good, in passing +over what happen'd to this poor Chevalier of St. Louis about nine +months after. + +It seems he usually took his stand near the iron gates which lead +up to the palace, and as his croix had caught the eyes of numbers, +numbers had made the same enquiry which I had done. - He had told +them the same story, and always with so much modesty and good +sense, that it had reach'd at last the king's ears; - who, hearing +the Chevalier had been a gallant officer, and respected by the +whole regiment as a man of honour and integrity, - he broke up his +little trade by a pension of fifteen hundred livres a year. + +As I have told this to please the reader, I beg he will allow me to +relate another, out of its order, to please myself: - the two +stories reflect light upon each other, - and 'tis a pity they +should be parted. + + +THE SWORD. RENNES. + + +WHEN states and empires have their periods of declension, and feel +in their turns what distress and poverty is, - I stop not to tell +the causes which gradually brought the house d'E-, in Brittany, +into decay. The Marquis d'E- had fought up against his condition +with great firmness; wishing to preserve, and still show to the +world, some little fragments of what his ancestors had been; - +their indiscretions had put it out of his power. There was enough +left for the little exigencies of OBSCURITY. - But he had two boys +who looked up to him for LIGHT; - he thought they deserved it. He +had tried his sword - it could not open the way, - the MOUNTING was +too expensive, - and simple economy was not a match for it: - there +was no resource but commerce. + +In any other province in France, save Brittany, this was smiting +the root for ever of the little tree his pride and affection wish'd +to see re-blossom. - But in Brittany, there being a provision for +this, he avail'd himself of it; and, taking an occasion when the +states were assembled at Rennes, the Marquis, attended with his two +boys, entered the court; and having pleaded the right of an ancient +law of the duchy, which, though seldom claim'd, he said, was no +less in force, he took his sword from his side: - Here, said he, +take it; and be trusty guardians of it, till better times put me in +condition to reclaim it. + +The president accepted the Marquis's sword: he staid a few minutes +to see it deposited in the archives of his house - and departed. + +The Marquis and his whole family embarked the next clay for +Martinico, and in about nineteen or twenty years of successful +application to business, with some unlook'd for bequests from +distant branches of his house, return home to reclaim his nobility, +and to support it. + +It was an incident of good fortune which will never happen to any +traveller but a Sentimental one, that I should be at Rennes at the +very time of this solemn requisition: I call it solemn; - it was so +to me. + +The Marquis entered the court with his whole family: he supported +his lady, - his eldest son supported his sister, and his youngest +was at the other extreme of the line next his mother; - he put his +handkerchief to his face twice. - + +- There was a dead silence. When the Marquis had approached within +six paces of the tribunal, he gave the Marchioness to his youngest +son, and advancing three steps before his family, - he reclaim'd +his sword. His sword was given him, and the moment he got it into +his hand he drew it almost out of the scabbard: - 'twas the shining +face of a friend he had once given up - he look'd attentively along +it, beginning at the hilt, as if to see whether it was the same, - +when, observing a little rust which it had contracted near the +point, he brought it near his eye, and bending his head down over +it, - I think - I saw a tear fall upon the place. I could not be +deceived by what followed. + +"I shall find," said he, "some OTHER WAY to get it off." + +When the Marquis had said this, he returned his sword into its +scabbard, made a bow to the guardians of it, - and, with his wife +and daughter, and his two sons following him, walk'd out. + +O, how I envied him his feelings! + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +I FOUND no difficulty in getting admittance to Monsieur le Count de +B-. The set of Shakespeares was laid upon the table, and he was +tumbling them over. I walk'd up close to the table, and giving +first such a look at the books as to make him conceive I knew what +they were, - I told him I had come without any one to present me, +knowing I should meet with a friend in his apartment, who, I +trusted, would do it for me: - it is my countryman, the great +Shakespeare, said I, pointing to his works - ET AYEZ LA BOUTE, MON +CHER AMI, apostrophizing his spirit, added I, DE ME FAIRE CET +HONNEUR-LE. - + +The Count smiled at the singularity of the introduction; and seeing +I look'd a little pale and sickly, insisted upon my taking an arm- +chair; so I sat down; and to save him conjectures upon a visit so +out of all rule, I told him simply of the incident in the +bookseller's shop, and how that had impelled me rather to go to him +with the story of a little embarrassment I was under, than to any +other man in France. - And what is your embarrassment? let me hear +it, said the Count. So I told him the story just as I have told it +the reader. + +- And the master of my hotel, said I, as I concluded it, will needs +have it, Monsieur le Count, that I shall be sent to the Bastile; - +but I have no apprehensions, continued I; - for, in falling into +the hands of the most polish'd people in the world, and being +conscious I was a true man, and not come to spy the nakedness of +the land, I scarce thought I lay at their mercy. - It does not suit +the gallantry of the French, Monsieur le Count, said I, to show it +against invalids. + +An animated blush came into the Count de B-'s cheeks as I spoke +this. - NE CRAIGNEZ RIEN - Don't fear, said he. - Indeed, I don't, +replied I again. - Besides, continued I, a little sportingly, I +have come laughing all the way from London to Paris, and I do not +think Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul is such an enemy to mirth as to +send me back crying for my pains. + +- My application to you, Monsieur le Count de B- (making him a low +bow), is to desire he will not. + +The Count heard me with great good nature, or I had not said half +as much, - and once or twice said, - C'EST BIEN DIT. So I rested +my cause there - and determined to say no more about it. + +The Count led the discourse: we talk'd of indifferent things, - of +books, and politics, and men; - and then of women. - God bless them +all! said I, after much discourse about them - there is not a man +upon earth who loves them so much as I do: after all the foibles I +have seen, and all the satires I have read against them, still I +love them; being firmly persuaded that a man, who has not a sort of +affection for the whole sex, is incapable of ever loving a single +one as he ought. + +EH BIEN! MONSIEUR L'ANGLOIS, said the Count, gaily; - you are not +come to spy the nakedness of the land; - I believe you; - NI +ENCORE, I dare say, THAT of our women! - But permit me to +conjecture, - if, PAR HAZARD, they fell into your way, that the +prospect would not affect you. + +I have something within me which cannot bear the shock of the least +indecent insinuation: in the sportability of chit-chat I have often +endeavoured to conquer it, and with infinite pain have hazarded a +thousand things to a dozen of the sex together, - the least of +which I could not venture to a single one to gain heaven. + +Excuse me, Monsieur le Count, said I; - as for the nakedness of +your land, if I saw it, I should cast my eyes over it with tears in +them; - and for that of your women (blushing at the idea he had +excited in me) I am so evangelical in this, and have such a fellow- +feeling for whatever is weak about them, that I would cover it with +a garment if I knew how to throw it on: - But I could wish, +continued I, to spy the nakedness of their hearts, and through the +different disguises of customs, climates, and religion, find out +what is good in them to fashion my own by: - and therefore am I +come. + +It is for this reason, Monsieur le Count, continued I, that I have +not seen the Palais Royal, - nor the Luxembourg, - nor the Facade +of the Louvre, - nor have attempted to swell the catalogues we have +of pictures, statues, and churches. - I conceive every fair being +as a temple, and would rather enter in, and see the original +drawings and loose sketches hung up in it, than the Transfiguration +of Raphael itself. + +The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which +inflames the breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own home +into France, - and from France will lead me through Italy; - 'tis a +quiet journey of the heart in pursuit of Nature, and those +affections which arise out of her, which make us love each other, - +and the world, better than we do. + +The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the occasion; +and added very politely, how much he stood obliged to Shakespeare +for making me known to him. - But A PROPOS, said he; - Shakespeare +is full of great things; - he forgot a small punctilio of +announcing your name: - it puts you under a necessity of doing it +yourself. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +THERE is not a more perplexing affair in life to me, than to set +about telling any one who I am, - for there is scarce any body I +cannot give a better account of than myself; and I have often +wished I could do it in a single word, - and have an end of it. It +was the only time and occasion in my life I could accomplish this +to any purpose; - for Shakespeare lying upon the table, and +recollecting I was in his books, I took up Hamlet, and turning +immediately to the grave-diggers' scene in the fifth act, I laid my +finger upon Yorick, and advancing the book to the Count, with my +finger all the way over the name, - ME VOICI! said I. + +Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick's skull was put out of the +Count's mind by the reality of my own, or by what magic he could +drop a period of seven or eight hundred years, makes nothing in +this account; - 'tis certain the French conceive better than they +combine; - I wonder at nothing in this world, and the less at this; +inasmuch as one of the first of our own Church, for whose candour +and paternal sentiments I have the highest veneration, fell into +the same mistake in the very same case: - "He could not bear," he +said, "to look into the sermons wrote by the King of Denmark's +jester." Good, my Lord said I; but there are two Yoricks. The +Yorick your Lordship thinks of, has been dead and buried eight +hundred years ago; he flourished in Horwendillus's court; - the +other Yorick is myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court. +- He shook his head. Good God! said I, you might as well confound +Alexander the Great with Alexander the Coppersmith, my lord! - +"'Twas all one," he replied. - + +- If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated your +Lordship, said I, I'm sure your Lordship would not have said so. + +The poor Count de B- fell but into the same ERROR. + +- ET, MONSIEUR, EST-IL YORICK? cried the Count. - JE LE SUIS, said +I. - VOUS? - MOI, - MOI QUI AI L'HONNEUR DE VOUS PARLER, MONSIEUR +LE COMTE. - MON DIEU! said he, embracing me, - VOUS ETES YORICK! + +The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and left +me alone in his room. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +I COULD not conceive why the Count de B- had gone so abruptly out +of the room, any more than I could conceive why he had put the +Shakespeare into his pocket. - + +MYSTERIES WHICH MUST EXPLAIN THEMSELVES ARE NOT WORTH THE LOSS OF +TIME WHICH A CONJECTURE ABOUT THEM TAKES UP: 'twas better to read +Shakespeare; so taking up "MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING," I transported +myself instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in Sicily, and +got so busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, that I +thought not of Versailles, the Count, or the passport. + +Sweet pliability of man's spirit, that can at once surrender itself +to illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow of their weary +moments! - Long, - long since had ye number'd out my days, had I +not trod so great a part of them upon this enchanted ground. When +my way is too rough for my feet, or too steep for my strength, I +get off it, to some smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered +over with rosebuds of delights; and having taken a few turns in it, +come back strengthened and refresh'd. - When evils press sore upon +me, and there is no retreat from them in this world, then I take a +new course; - I leave it, - and as I have a clearer idea of the +Elysian fields than I have of heaven, I force myself, like AEneas, +into them. - I see him meet the pensive shade of his forsaken Dido, +and wish to recognise it; - I see the injured spirit wave her head, +and turn off silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours; +- I lose the feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections +which were wont to make me mourn for her when I was at school. + +SURELY THIS IS NOT WALKING IN A VAIN SHADOW - NOR DOES MAN DISQUIET +HIMSELF in vain BY IT: -he oftener does so in trusting the issue of +his commotions to reason only. - I can safely say for myself, I was +never able to conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart so +decisively, as beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and +gentle sensation to fight it upon its own ground + +When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de B- entered, +with my passport in his hand. Monsieur le Duc de C-, said the +Count, is as good a prophet, I dare say, as he is a statesman. UN +HOMME QUI RIT, said the Duke, NE SERA JAMAIS DANGEREUX. - Had it +been for any one but the king's jester, added the Count, I could +not have got it these two hours. - PARDONNEZ MOI, Monsieur le +Count, said I - I am not the king's jester. - But you are Yorick? - +Yes. - ET VOUS PLAISANTEZ? - I answered, Indeed I did jest, - but +was not paid for it; - 'twas entirely at my own expense. + +We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the last we +had was in the licentious reign of Charles II.; - since which time +our manners have been so gradually refining, that our court at +present is so full of patriots, who wish for NOTHING but the +honours and wealth of their country; - and our ladies are all so +chaste, so spotless, so good, so devout, - there is nothing for a +jester to make a jest of. - + +VOILA UN PERSIFLAGE! cried the Count. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +AS the passport was directed to all lieutenant-governors, +governors, and commandants of cities, generals of armies, +justiciaries, and all officers of justice, to let Mr. Yorick the +king's jester, and his baggage, travel quietly along, I own the +triumph of obtaining the passport was not a little tarnish'd by the +figure I cut in it. - But there is nothing unmix'd in this world; +and some of the gravest of our divines have carried it so far as to +affirm, that enjoyment itself was attended even with a sigh, - and +that the greatest THEY KNEW OF terminated, IN A GENERAL WAY, in +little better than a convulsion. + +I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his Commentary +upon the Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks off in the +middle of a note to give an account to the world of a couple of +sparrows upon the out-edge of his window, which had incommoded him +all the time he wrote, and at last had entirely taken him off from +his genealogy. + +- 'Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts are certain, for +I have had the curiosity to mark them down one by one with my pen; +- but the cock sparrow, during the little time that I could have +finished the other half of this note, has actually interrupted me +with the reiteration of his caresses three-and-twenty times and a +half. + +How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his creatures! + +Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be able +to write that to the world, which stains thy face with crimson to +copy, even in thy study. + +But this is nothing to my travels. - So I twice, - twice beg pardon +for it. + + +CHARACTER. VERSAILLES. + + +AND how do you find the French? said the Count de B-, after he had +given me the passport. + +The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of courtesy, +I could not be at a loss to say something handsome to the enquiry. + +- MAIS PASSE, POUR CELA. - Speak frankly, said he: do you find all +the urbanity in the French which the world give us the honour of? - +I had found every thing, I said, which confirmed it. - VRAIMENT, +said the Count, LES FRANCOIS SONT POLIS. - To an excess, replied I. + +The Count took notice of the word EXCES; and would have it I meant +more than I said. I defended myself a long time as well as I could +against it. - He insisted I had a reserve, and that I would speak +my opinion frankly. + +I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain +compass, as well as an instrument; and that the social and other +calls have occasion by turns for every key in him; so that if you +begin a note too high or too low, there must be a want either in +the upper or under part, to fill up the system of harmony. - The +Count de B- did not understand music, so desired me to explain it +some other way. A polish'd nation, my dear Count, said I, makes +every one its debtor: and besides, Urbanity itself, like the fair +sex, has so many charms, it goes against the heart to say it can do +ill; and yet, I believe, there is but a certain line of perfection, +that man, take him altogether, is empower'd to arrive at: - if he +gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than gets them. I must +not presume to say how far this has affected the French in the +subject we are speaking of; - but, should it ever be the case of +the English, in the progress of their refinements, to arrive at the +same polish which distinguishes the French, if we did not lose the +POLITESSE DU COEUR, which inclines men more to humane actions than +courteous ones, - we should at least lose that distinct variety and +originality of character, which distinguishes them, not only from +each other, but from all the world besides. + +I had a few of King William's shillings, as smooth as glass, in my +pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the illustration of +my hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I had proceeded so +far: - + +See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them before +him upon the table, - by jingling and rubbing one against another +for seventy years together in one body's pocket or another's, they +are become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling +from another. + +The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and passing but +few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine +hand of Nature has given them; - they are not so pleasant to feel, +- but in return the legend is so visible, that at the first look +you see whose image and superscription they bear. - But the French, +Monsieur le Count, added I (wishing to soften what I had said), +have so many excellences, they can the better spare this; - they +are a loyal, a gallant, a generous, an ingenious, and good temper'd +people as is under heaven; - if they have a fault - they are too +SERIOUS. + +MON DIEU! cried the Count, rising out of his chair. + +MAIS VOUS PLAISANTEZ, said he, correcting his exclamation. - I laid +my hand upon my breast, and with earnest gravity assured him it was +my most settled opinion. + +The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my +reasons, being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de C- +. + +But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your soup +with me, I beg, before you leave France, I may have the pleasure of +knowing you retract your opinion, - or, in what manner you support +it. - But, if you do support it, Monsieur Anglois, said he, you +must do it with all your powers, because you have the whole world +against you. - I promised the Count I would do myself the honour of +dining with him before I set out for Italy; - so took my leave. + + +THE TEMPTATION. PARIS. + + +WHEN I alighted at the hotel, the porter told me a young woman with +a bandbox had been that moment enquiring for me. - I do not know, +said the porter, whether she is gone away or not. I took the key +of my chamber of him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within +ten steps of the top of the landing before my door, I met her +coming easily down. + +It was the fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE I had walked along the Quai de +Conti with; Madame de R- had sent her upon some commission to a +MARCHANDE DES MODES within a step or two of the Hotel de Modene; +and as I had fail'd in waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I +had left Paris; and if so, whether I had not left a letter +addressed to her. + +As the fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE was so near my door, she returned +back, and went into the room with me for a moment or two whilst I +wrote a card. + +It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of May, +- the crimson window curtains (which were of the same colour as +those of the bed) were drawn close: - the sun was setting, and +reflected through them so warm a tint into the fair FILLE DE +CHAMBRE'S face, - I thought she blush'd; - the idea of it made me +blush myself: - we were quite alone; and that superinduced a second +blush before the first could get off. + +There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the blood is +more in fault than the man: - 'tis sent impetuous from the heart, +and virtue flies after it, - not to call it back, but to make the +sensation of it more delicious to the nerves: -'tis associated. - + +But I'll not describe it; - I felt something at first within me +which was not in strict unison with the lesson of virtue I had +given her the night before. - I sought five minutes for a card; - I +knew I had not one. - I took up a pen. - I laid it down again; - my +hand trembled: - the devil was in me. + +I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we resist, +he will fly from us; - but I seldom resist him at all; from a +terror, though I may conquer, I may still get a hurt in the combat; +- so I give up the triumph for security; and, instead of thinking +to make him fly, I generally fly myself. + +The fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE came close up to the bureau where I was +looking for a card - took up first the pen I cast down, then +offer'd to hold me the ink; she offer'd it so sweetly, I was going +to accept it; - but I durst not; - I have nothing, my dear, said I, +to write upon. - Write it, said she, simply, upon anything. - + +I was just going to cry out, Then I will write it, fair girl! upon +thy lips. - + +If I do, said I, I shall perish; - so I took her by the hand, and +led her to the door, and begg'd she would not forget the lesson I +had given her. - She said, indeed she would not; - and, as she +uttered it with some earnestness, she turn'd about, and gave me +both her hands, closed together, into mine; - it was impossible not +to compress them in that situation; - I wish'd to let them go; and +all the time I held them, I kept arguing within myself against it, +- and still I held them on. - In two minutes I found I had all the +battle to fight over again; - and I felt my legs and every limb +about me tremble at the idea. + +The foot of the bed was within a yard and a half of the place where +we were standing. - I had still hold of her hands - and how it +happened I can give no account; but I neither ask'd her - nor drew +her - nor did I think of the bed; - but so it did happen, we both +sat down. + +I'll just show you, said the fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE, the little +purse I have been making to-day to hold your crown. So she put her +hand into her right pocket, which was next me, and felt for it some +time - then into the left. - "She had lost it." - I never bore +expectation more quietly; - it was in her right pocket at last; - +she pull'd it out; it was of green taffeta, lined with a little bit +of white quilted satin, and just big enough to hold the crown: she +put it into my hand; - it was pretty; and I held it ten minutes +with the back of my hand resting upon her lap - looking sometimes +at the purse, sometimes on one side of it. + +A stitch or two had broke out in the gathers of my stock; the fair +FILLE DE CHAMBRE, without saying a word, took out her little +housewife, threaded a small needle, and sew'd it up. - I foresaw it +would hazard the glory of the day; and, as she pass'd her hand in +silence across and across my neck in the manoeuvre, I felt the +laurels shake which fancy had wreath'd about my head. + +A strap had given way in her walk, and the buckle of her shoe was +just falling off. - See, said the FILLE DE CHAMBRE, holding up her +foot. - I could not, for my soul but fasten the buckle in return, +and putting in the strap, - and lifting up the other foot with it, +when I had done, to see both were right, - in doing it too +suddenly, it unavoidably threw the fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE off her +centre, - and then - + + +THE CONQUEST. + + +YES, - and then -. Ye whose clay-cold heads and luke-warm hearts +can argue down or mask your passions, tell me, what trespass is it +that man should have them? or how his spirit stands answerable to +the Father of spirits but for his conduct under them? + +If Nature has so wove her web of kindness, that some threads of +love and desire are entangled with the piece, - must the whole web +be rent in drawing them out? - Whip me such stoics, great Governor +of Nature! said I to myself: - wherever thy providence shall place +me for the trials of my virtue; - whatever is my danger, - whatever +is my situation, - let me feel the movements which rise out of it, +and which belong to me as a man, - and, if I govern them as a good +one, I will trust the issues to thy justice; for thou hast made us, +and not we ourselves. + +As I finished my address, I raised the fair FILLE DE CHAMBRE up by +the hand, and led her out of the room: - she stood by me till I +locked the door and put the key in my pocket, - and then, - the +victory being quite decisive - and not till then, I press'd my lips +to her cheek, and taking her by the hand again, led her safe to the +gate of the hotel. + + +THE MYSTERY. PARIS. + + +IF a man knows the heart, he will know it was impossible to go back +instantly to my chamber; - it was touching a cold key with a flat +third to it upon the close of a piece of music, which had call'd +forth my affections: - therefore, when I let go the hand of the +FILLE DE CHAMBRE, I remained at the gate of the hotel for some +time, looking at every one who pass'd by, - and forming conjectures +upon them, till my attention got fix'd upon a single object which +confounded all kind of reasoning upon him. + +It was a tall figure of a philosophic, serious, adust look, which +passed and repass'd sedately along the street, making a turn of +about sixty paces on each side of the gate of the hotel; - the man +was about fifty-two - had a small cane under his arm - was dress'd +in a dark drab-colour'd coat, waistcoat, and breeches, which seem'd +to have seen some years service: - they were still clean, and there +was a little air of frugal PROPRETE throughout him. By his pulling +off his hat, and his attitude of accosting a good many in his way, +I saw he was asking charity: so I got a sous or two out of my +pocket ready to give him, as he took me in his turn. - He pass'd by +me without asking anything - and yet did not go five steps further +before he ask'd charity of a little woman. - I was much more likely +to have given of the two. - He had scarce done with the woman, when +he pull'd off his hat to another who was coming the same way. - An +ancient gentleman came slowly - and, after him, a young smart one. +- He let them both pass, and ask'd nothing. I stood observing him +half an hour, in which time he had made a dozen turns backwards and +forwards, and found that he invariably pursued the same plan. + +There were two things very singular in this, which set my brain to +work, and to no purpose: - the first was, why the man should ONLY +tell his story to the sex; - and, secondly, - what kind of story it +was, and what species of eloquence it could be, which soften'd the +hearts of the women, which he knew 'twas to no purpose to practise +upon the men. + +There were two other circumstances, which entangled this mystery; - +the one was, he told every woman what he had to say in her ear, and +in a way which had much more the air of a secret than a petition; - +the other was, it was always successful. - He never stopp'd a +woman, but she pull'd out her purse, and immediately gave him +something. + +I could form no system to explain the phenomenon. + +I had got a riddle to amuse me for the rest of the evening; so I +walk'd upstairs to my chamber. + + +THE CASE OF CONSCIENCE. PARIS. + + +I WAS immediately followed up by the master of the hotel, who came +into my room to tell me I must provide lodgings elsewhere. - How +so, friend? said I. - He answered, I had had a young woman lock'd +up with me two hours that evening in my bedchamber, and 'twas +against the rules of his house. - Very well, said I, we'll all part +friends then, - for the girl is no worse, - and I am no worse, - +and you will be just as I found you. - It was enough, he said, to +overthrow the credit of his hotel. - VOYEZ VOUS, Monsieur, said he, +pointing to the foot of the bed we had been sitting upon. - I own +it had something of the appearance of an evidence; but my pride not +suffering me to enter into any detail of the case, I exhorted him +to let his soul sleep in peace, as I resolved to let mine do that +night, and that I would discharge what I owed him at breakfast. + +I should not have minded, Monsieur, said he, if you had had twenty +girls - 'Tis a score more, replied I, interrupting him, than I ever +reckon'd upon - Provided, added he, it had been but in a morning. - +And does the difference of the time of the day at Paris make a +difference in the sin? - It made a difference, he said, in the +scandal. - I like a good distinction in my heart; and cannot say I +was intolerably out of temper with the man. - I own it is +necessary, resumed the master of the hotel, that a stranger at +Paris should have the opportunities presented to him of buying lace +and silk stockings and ruffles, ET TOUT CELA; - and 'tis nothing if +a woman comes with a band-box. - O, my conscience! said I, she had +one but I never look'd into it. - Then Monsieur, said he, has +bought nothing? - Not one earthly thing, replied I. - Because, said +he, I could recommend one to you who would use you EN CONSCIENCE. - +But I must see her this night, said I. - He made me a low bow, and +walk'd down. + +Now shall I triumph over this MAITRE D'HOTEL, cried I, - and what +then? Then I shall let him see I know he is a dirty fellow. - And +what then? What then? - I was too near myself to say it was for +the sake of others. - I had no good answer left; - there was more +of spleen than principle in my project, and I was sick of it before +the execution. + +In a few minutes the grisette came in with her box of lace. - I'll +buy nothing, however, said I, within myself. + +The grisette would show me everything. - I was hard to please: she +would not seem to see it; she opened her little magazine, and laid +all her laces one after another before me; - unfolded and folded +them up again one by one with the most patient sweetness. - I might +buy, - or not; - she would let me have everything at my own price: +- the poor creature seem'd anxious to get a penny; and laid herself +out to win me, and not so much in a manner which seem'd artful, as +in one I felt simple and caressing. + +If there is not a fund of honest gullibility in man, so much the +worse; - my heart relented, and I gave up my second resolution as +quietly as the first. - Why should I chastise one for the trespass +of another? If thou art tributary to this tyrant of an host, +thought I, looking up in her face, so much harder is thy bread. + +If I had not had more than four louis d'ors in my purse, there was +no such thing as rising up and showing her the door, till I had +first laid three of them out in a pair of ruffles. + +- The master of the hotel will share the profit with her; - no +matter, - then I have only paid as many a poor soul has PAID before +me, for an act he COULD not do, or think of. + + +THE RIDDLE. PARIS. + + +WHEN La Fleur came up to wait upon me at supper, he told me how +sorry the master of the hotel was for his affront to me in bidding +me change my lodgings. + +A man who values a good night's rest will not lie down with enmity +in his heart, if he can help it. - So I bid La Fleur tell the +master of the hotel, that I was sorry on my side for the occasion I +had given him; - and you may tell him, if you will, La Fleur, added +I, that if the young woman should call again, I shall not see her. + +This was a sacrifice not to him, but myself, having resolved, after +so narrow an escape, to run no more risks, but to leave Paris, if +it was possible, with all the virtue I enter'd it. + +C'EST DEROGER E NOBLESSE, MONSIEUR, said La Fleur, making me a bow +down to the ground as he said it. - ET ENCORE, MONSIEUR, said he, +may change his sentiments; - and if (PAR HAZARD) he should like to +amuse himself, - I find no amusement in it, said I, interrupting +him. - + +MON DIEU! said La Fleur, - and took away. + +In an hour's time he came to put me to bed, and was more than +commonly officious: - something hung upon his lips to say to me, or +ask me, which he could not get off: I could not conceive what it +was, and indeed gave myself little trouble to find it out, as I had +another riddle so much more interesting upon my mind, which was +that of the man's asking charity before the door of the hotel. - I +would have given anything to have got to the bottom of it; and +that, not out of curiosity, - 'tis so low a principle of enquiry, +in general, I would not purchase the gratification of it with a +two-sous piece; - but a secret, I thought, which so soon and so +certainly soften'd the heart of every woman you came near, was a +secret at least equal to the philosopher's stone; had I both the +Indies, I would have given up one to have been master of it. + +I toss'd and turn'd it almost all night long in my brains to no +manner of purpose; and when I awoke in the morning, I found my +spirits as much troubled with my dreams, as ever the King of +Babylon had been with his; and I will not hesitate to affirm, it +would have puzzled all the wise men of Paris as much as those of +Chaldea to have given its interpretation. + + +LE DIMANCHE. PARIS. + + +IT was Sunday; and when La Fleur came in, in the morning, with my +coffee and roll and butter, he had got himself so gallantly +array'd, I scarce knew him. + +I had covenanted at Montreuil to give him a new hat with a silver +button and loop, and four louis d'ors, POUR S'ADONISER, when we got +to Paris; and the poor fellow, to do him justice, had done wonders +with it. + +He had bought a bright, clean, good scarlet coat, and a pair of +breeches of the same. - They were not a crown worse, he said, for +the wearing. - I wish'd him hang'd for telling me. - They look'd so +fresh, that though I knew the thing could not be done, yet I would +rather have imposed upon my fancy with thinking I had bought them +new for the fellow, than that they had come out of the Rue de +Friperie. + +This is a nicety which makes not the heart sore at Paris. + +He had purchased, moreover, a handsome blue satin waistcoat, +fancifully enough embroidered: - this was indeed something the +worse for the service it had done, but 'twas clean scour'd; - the +gold had been touch'd up, and upon the whole was rather showy than +otherwise; - and as the blue was not violent, it suited with the +coat and breeches very well: he had squeez'd out of the money, +moreover, a new bag and a solitaire; and had insisted with the +FRIPIER upon a gold pair of garters to his breeches knees. - He had +purchased muslin ruffles, BIEN BRODEES, with four livres of his own +money; - and a pair of white silk stockings for five more; - and to +top all, nature had given him a handsome figure, without costing +him a sous. + +He entered the room thus set off, with his hair dressed in the +first style, and with a handsome bouquet in his breast. - In a +word, there was that look of festivity in everything about him, +which at once put me in mind it was Sunday; - and, by combining +both together, it instantly struck me, that the favour he wish'd to +ask of me the night before, was to spend the day as every body in +Paris spent it besides. I had scarce made the conjecture, when La +Fleur, with infinite humility, but with a look of trust, as if I +should not refuse him, begg'd I would grant him the day, POUR FAIRE +LE GALANT VIS-E-VIS DE SA MAITRESSE. + +Now it was the very thing I intended to do myself vis-e-vis Madame +de R-. - I had retained the remise on purpose for it, and it would +not have mortified my vanity to have had a servant so well dress'd +as La Fleur was, to have got up behind it: I never could have worse +spared him. + +But we must FEEL, not argue in these embarrassments. - The sons and +daughters of Service part with liberty, but not with nature, in +their contracts; they are flesh and blood, and have their little +vanities and wishes in the midst of the house of bondage, as well +as their task-masters; - no doubt, they have set their self-denials +at a price, - and their expectations are so unreasonable, that I +would often disappoint them, but that their condition puts it so +much in my power to do it. + +BEHOLD, - BEHOLD, I AM THY SERVANT - disarms me at once of the +powers of a master. - + +Thou shalt go, La Fleur! said I. + +- And what mistress, La Fleur, said I, canst thou have picked up in +so little a time at Paris? La Fleur laid his hand upon his breast, +and said 'twas a PETITE DEMOISELLE, at Monsieur le Count de B-'s. - +La Fleur had a heart made for society; and, to speak the truth of +him, let as few occasions slip him as his master; - so that somehow +or other, - but how, - heaven knows, - he had connected himself +with the demoiselle upon the landing of the staircase, during the +time I was taken up with my passport; and as there was time enough +for me to win the Count to my interest, La Fleur had contrived to +make it do to win the maid to his. The family, it seems, was to be +at Paris that day, and he had made a party with her, and two or +three more of the Count's household, upon the boulevards. + +Happy people! that once a week at least are sure to lay down all +your cares together, and dance and sing and sport away the weights +of grievance, which bow down the spirit of other nations to the +earth. + + +THE FRAGMENT. PARIS. + + +LA FLEUR had left me something to amuse myself with for the day +more than I had bargain'd for, or could have enter'd either into +his head or mine. + +He had brought the little print of butter upon a currant leaf: and +as the morning was warm, and he had a good step to bring it, he had +begg'd a sheet of waste paper to put betwixt the currant leaf and +his hand. - As that was plate sufficient, I bade him lay it upon +the table as it was; and as I resolved to stay within all day, I +ordered him to call upon the TRAITEUR, to bespeak my dinner, and +leave me to breakfast by myself. + +When I had finished the butter, I threw the currant-leaf out of the +window, and was going to do the same by the waste paper; - but +stopping to read a line first, and that drawing me on to a second +and third, - I thought it better worth; so I shut the window, and +drawing a chair up to it, I sat down to read it. + +It was in the old French of Rabelais's time, and for aught I know +might have been wrote by him: - it was moreover in a Gothic letter, +and that so faded and gone off by damps and length of time, it cost +me infinite trouble to make anything of it. - I threw it down; and +then wrote a letter to Eugenius; - then I took it up again, and +embroiled my patience with it afresh; - and then to cure that, I +wrote a letter to Eliza. - Still it kept hold of me; and the +difficulty of understanding it increased but the desire. + +I got my dinner; and after I had enlightened my mind with a bottle +of Burgundy; I at it again, - and, after two or three hours poring +upon it, with almost as deep attention as ever Gruter or Jacob Spon +did upon a nonsensical inscription, I thought I made sense of it; +but to make sure of it, the best way, I imagined, was to turn it +into English, and see how it would look then; - so I went on +leisurely, as a trifling man does, sometimes writing a sentence, - +then taking a turn or two, - and then looking how the world went, +out of the window; so that it was nine o'clock at night before I +had done it. - I then began and read it as follows. + + +THE FRAGMENT. PARIS. + + +- NOW, as the notary's wife disputed the point with the notary with +too much heat, - I wish, said the notary, (throwing down the +parchment) that there was another notary here only to set down and +attest all this. - + +- And what would you do then, Monsieur? said she, rising hastily +up. - The notary's wife was a little fume of a woman, and the +notary thought it well to avoid a hurricane by a mild reply. - I +would go, answered he, to bed. - You may go to the devil, answer'd +the notary's wife. + +Now there happening to be but one bed in the house, the other two +rooms being unfurnished, as is the custom at Paris, and the notary +not caring to lie in the same bed with a woman who had but that +moment sent him pell mell to the devil, went forth with his hat and +cane and short cloak, the night being very windy, and walk'd out, +ill at ease, towards the Pont Neuf. + +Of all the bridges which ever were built, the whole world who have +pass'd over the Pont Neuf must own, that it is the noblest, - the +finest, - the grandest, - the lightest, - the longest, - the +broadest, that ever conjoin'd land and land together upon the face +of the terraqueous globe. + +[BY THIS IT SEEMS AS IF THE AUTHOR OF THE FRAGMENT HAD NOT BEEN A +FRENCHMAN.] + +The worst fault which divines and the doctors of the Sorbonne can +allege against it is, that if there is but a capfull of wind in or +about Paris, 'tis more blasphemously SACRE DIEU'D there than in any +other aperture of the whole city, - and with reason good and +cogent, Messieurs; for it comes against you without crying GARDE +D'EAU, and with such unpremeditable puffs, that of the few who +cross it with their hats on, not one in fifty but hazards two +livres and a half, which is its full worth. + +The poor notary, just as he was passing by the sentry, +instinctively clapp'd his cane to the side of it, but in raising it +up, the point of his cane catching hold of the loop of the +sentinel's hat, hoisted it over the spikes of the ballustrade clear +into the Seine. - + +- 'TIS AN ILL WIND, said a boatman, who catched it, WHICH BLOWS +NOBODY ANY GOOD. + +The sentry, being a Gascon, incontinently twirled up his whiskers, +and levell'd his arquebuss. + +Arquebusses in those days went off with matches; and an old woman's +paper lantern at the end of the bridge happening to be blown out, +she had borrow'd the sentry's match to light it: - it gave a +moment's time for the Gascon's blood to run cool, and turn the +accident better to his advantage. - 'TIS AN ILL WIND, said he, +catching off the notary's castor, and legitimating the capture with +the boatman's adage. + +The poor notary crossed the bridge, and passing along the Rue de +Dauphine into the fauxbourgs of St. Germain, lamented himself as he +walked along in this manner: - + +Luckless man that I am! said the notary, to be the sport of +hurricanes all my days: - to be born to have the storm of ill +language levell'd against me and my profession wherever I go; to be +forced into marriage by the thunder of the church to a tempest of a +woman; - to be driven forth out of my house by domestic winds, and +despoil'd of my castor by pontific ones! - to be here, bareheaded, +in a windy night, at the mercy of the ebbs and flows of accidents! +- Where am I to lay my head? - Miserable man! what wind in the two- +and-thirty points of the whole compass can blow unto thee, as it +does to the rest of thy fellow-creatures, good? + +As the notary was passing on by a dark passage, complaining in this +sort, a voice call'd out to a girl, to bid her run for the next +notary. - Now the notary being the next, and availing himself of +his situation, walk'd up the passage to the door, and passing +through an old sort of a saloon, was usher'd into a large chamber, +dismantled of everything but a long military pike, - a breastplate, +- a rusty old sword, and bandoleer, hung up, equidistant, in four +different places against the wall. + +An old personage who had heretofore been a gentleman, and unless +decay of fortune taints the blood along with it, was a gentleman at +that time, lay supporting his head upon his hand in his bed; a +little table with a taper burning was set close beside it, and +close by the table was placed a chair: - the notary sat him down in +it; and pulling out his inkhorn and a sheet or two of paper which +he had in his pocket, he placed them before him; and dipping his +pen in his ink, and leaning his breast over the table, he disposed +everything to make the gentleman's last will and testament + +Alas! MONSIEUR LE NOTAIRE, said the gentleman, raising himself up +a little, I have nothing to bequeath, which will pay the expense of +bequeathing, except the history of myself, which I could not die in +peace, unless I left it as a legacy to the world: the profits +arising out of it I bequeath to you for the pains of taking it from +me. - It is a story so uncommon, it must be read by all mankind; - +it will make the fortunes of your house. - The notary dipp'd his +pen into his inkhorn. - Almighty Director of every event in my +life! said the old gentleman, looking up earnestly, and raising his +hands towards heaven, - Thou, whose hand has led me on through such +a labyrinth of strange passages down into this scene of desolation, +assist the decaying memory of an old, infirm, and broken-hearted +man; - direct my tongue by the spirit of thy eternal truth, that +this stranger may set down nought but what is written in that BOOK, +from whose records, said he, clasping his hands together, I am to +be condemn'd or acquitted! - the notary held up the point of his +pen betwixt the taper and his eye. - + +It is a story, MONSIEUR LE NOTAIRE, said the gentleman, which will +rouse up every affection in nature; - it will kill the humane, and +touch the heart of Cruelty herself with pity. - + +- The notary was inflamed with a desire to begin, and put his pen a +third time into his ink-horn - and the old gentleman, turning a +little more towards the notary, began to dictate his story in these +words: - + +- And where is the rest of it, La Fleur? said I, as he just then +enter'd the room. + + +THE FRAGMENT, AND THE BOUQUET. (1) PARIS. + + +WHEN La Fleur came up close to the table, and was made to +comprehend what I wanted, he told me there were only two other +sheets of it, which he had wrapped round the stalks of a bouquet to +keep it together, which he had presented to the demoiselle upon the +boulevards. - Then prithee, La Fleur, said I, step back to her to +the Count de B-'s hotel, and see if thou canst get it. - There is +no doubt of it, said La Fleur; - and away he flew. + +In a very little time the poor fellow came back quite out of +breath, with deeper marks of disappointment in his looks than could +arise from the simple irreparability of the fragment. JUSTE CIEL! +in less than two minutes that the poor fellow had taken his last +tender farewell of her - his faithless mistress had given his GAGE +D'AMOUR to one of the Count's footmen, - the footman to a young +sempstress, - and the sempstress to a fiddler, with my fragment at +the end of it. - Our misfortunes were involved together: - I gave a +sigh, - and La Fleur echoed it back again to my ear. + +- How perfidious! cried La Fleur. - How unlucky! said I. + +- I should not have been mortified, Monsieur, quoth La Fleur, if +she had lost it. - Nor I, La Fleur, said I, had I found it. + +Whether I did or no will be seen hereafter. + + +THE ACT OF CHARITY. PARIS. + + +THE man who either disdains or fears to walk up a dark entry may be +an excellent good man, and fit for a hundred things, but he will +not do to make a good Sentimental Traveller. - I count little of +the many things I see pass at broad noonday, in large and open +streets. - Nature is shy, and hates to act before spectators; but +in such an unobserved corner you sometimes see a single short scene +of hers worth all the sentiments of a dozen French plays compounded +together, - and yet they are absolutely fine; - and whenever I have +a more brilliant affair upon my hands than common, as they suit a +preacher just as well as a hero, I generally make my sermon out of +'em; - and for the text, - "Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, Phrygia +and Pamphylia," - is as good as any one in the Bible. + +There is a long dark passage issuing out from the Opera Comique +into a narrow street; 'tis trod by a few who humbly wait for a +FIACRE, (2) or wish to get off quietly o'foot when the opera is +done. At the end of it, towards the theatre, 'tis lighted by a +small candle, the light of which is almost lost before you get +half-way down, but near the door - 'tis more for ornament than use: +you see it as a fixed star of the least magnitude; it burns, - but +does little good to the world, that we know of. + +In returning along this passage, I discerned, as I approached +within five or six paces of the door, two ladies standing arm-in- +arm with their backs against the wall, waiting, as I imagined, for +a FIACRE; - as they were next the door, I thought they had a prior +right; so edged myself up within a yard or little more of them, and +quietly took my stand. - I was in black, and scarce seen. + +The lady next me was a tall lean figure of a woman, of about +thirty-six; the other of the same size and make, of about forty: +there was no mark of wife or widow in any one part of either of +them; - they seem'd to be two upright vestal sisters, unsapped by +caresses, unbroke in upon by tender salutations. - I could have +wish'd to have made them happy: - their happiness was destin'd that +night, to come from another quarter. + +A low voice, with a good turn of expression, and sweet cadence at +the end of it, begg'd for a twelve-sous piece betwixt them, for the +love of heaven. I thought it singular that a beggar should fix the +quota of an alms - and that the sum should be twelve times as much +as what is usually given in the dark. - They both seemed astonished +at it as much as myself. - Twelve sous! said one. - A twelve-sous +piece! said the other, - and made no reply. + +The poor man said, he knew not how to ask less of ladies of their +rank; and bow'd down his head to the ground. + +Poo! said they, - we have no money. + +The beggar remained silent for a moment or two, and renew'd his +supplication. + +- Do not, my fair young ladies, said he, stop your good ears +against me. - Upon my word, honest man! said the younger, we have +no change. - Then God bless you, said the poor man, and multiply +those joys which you can give to others without change! - I +observed the elder sister put her hand into her pocket. - I'll see, +said she, if I have a sous. A sous! give twelve, said the +supplicant; Nature has been bountiful to you, be bountiful to a +poor man. + +- I would friend, with all my heart, said the younger, if I had it. + +My fair charitable! said he, addressing himself to the elder, - +what is it but your goodness and humanity which makes your bright +eyes so sweet, that they outshine the morning even in this dark +passage? and what was it which made the Marquis de Santerre and his +brother say so much of you both as they just passed by? + +The two ladies seemed much affected; and impulsively, at the same +time they both put their hands into their pocket, and each took out +a twelve-sous piece. + +The contest betwixt them and the poor supplicant was no more; - it +was continued betwixt themselves, which of the two should give the +twelve-sous piece in charity; - and, to end the dispute, they both +gave it together, and the man went away. + + +THE RIDDLE EXPLAINED. PARIS. + + +I STEPPED hastily after him: it was the very man whose success in +asking charity of the women before the door of the hotel had so +puzzled me; - and I found at once his secret, or at least the basis +of it: - 'twas flattery. + +Delicious essence! how refreshing art thou to Nature! how strongly +are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side! how sweetly +dost thou mix with the blood, and help it through the most +difficult and tortuous passages to the heart! + +The poor man, as he was not straiten'd for time, had given it here +in a larger dose: 'tis certain he had a way of bringing it into a +less form, for the many sudden cases he had to do with in the +streets: but how he contrived to correct, sweeten, concentre, and +qualify it, - I vex not my spirit with the enquiry; - it is enough +the beggar gained two twelve-sous pieces - and they can best tell +the rest, who have gained much greater matters by it. + + +PARIS. + + +WE get forwards in the world, not so much by doing services, as +receiving them; you take a withering twig, and put it in the +ground; and then you water it, because you have planted it. + +Monsieur le Count de B-, merely because he had done me one kindness +in the affair of my passport, would go on and do me another, the +few days he was at Paris, in making me known to a few people of +rank; and they were to present me to others, and so on. + +I had got master of my SECRET just in time to turn these honours to +some little account; otherwise, as is commonly the case, I should +have dined or supp'd a single time or two round, and then, by +TRANSLATING French looks and attitudes into plain English, I should +presently have seen, that I had hold of the COUVERT (3) of some +more entertaining guest; and in course should have resigned all my +places one after another, merely upon the principle that I could +not keep them. - As it was, things did not go much amiss. + +I had the honour of being introduced to the old Marquis de B-: in +days of yore he had signalized himself by some small feats of +chivalry in the COUR D'AMOUR, and had dress'd himself out to the +idea of tilts and tournaments ever since. - The Marquis de B- +wish'd to have it thought the affair was somewhere else than in his +brain. "He could like to take a trip to England," and asked much +of the English ladies. - Stay where you are, I beseech you, +Monsieur le Marquis, said I. - LES MESSIEURS ANGLOIS can scarce get +a kind look from them as it is. - The Marquis invited me to supper. + +Monsieur P-, the farmer-general, was just as inquisitive about our +taxes. They were very considerable, he heard. - If we knew but how +to collect them, said I, making him a low bow. + +I could never have been invited to Mons. P-'s concerts upon any +other terms. + +I had been misrepresented to Madame de Q- as an ESPRIT. - Madame de +Q- was an ESPRIT herself: she burnt with impatience to see me, and +hear me talk. I had not taken my seat, before I saw she did not +care a sous whether I had any wit or no; - I was let in, to be +convinced she had. I call heaven to witness I never once opened +the door of my lips. + +Madame de V- vow'd to every creature she met - "She had never had a +more improving conversation with a man in her life." + +There are three epochas in the empire of a French woman. - She is +coquette, - then deist, -then DEVOTE: the empire during these is +never lost, - she only changes her subjects when thirty-five years +and more have unpeopled her dominion of the slaves of love, she re- +peoples it with slaves of infidelity, - and then with the slaves of +the church. + +Madame de V- was vibrating betwixt the first of those epochas: the +colour of the rose was fading fast away; - she ought to have been a +deist five years before the time I had the honour to pay my first +visit. + +She placed me upon the same sofa with her, for the sake of +disputing the point of religion more closely. - In short Madame de +V- told me she believed nothing. - I told Madame de V- it might be +her principle, but I was sure it could not be her interest to level +the outworks, without which I could not conceive how such a citadel +as hers could be defended; - that there was not a more dangerous +thing in the world than for a beauty to be a deist; - that it was a +debt I owed my creed not to conceal it from her; - that I had not +been five minutes sat upon the sofa beside her, but I had begun to +form designs; - and what is it, but the sentiments of religion, and +the persuasion they had excited in her breast, which could have +check'd them as they rose up? + +We are not adamant, said I, taking hold of her hand; - and there is +need of all restraints, till age in her own time steals in and lays +them on us. - But my dear lady, said I, kissing her hand, - 'tis +too - too soon. + +I declare I had the credit all over Paris of unperverting Madame de +V-. - She affirmed to Monsieur D- and the Abbe M-, that in one half +hour I had said more for revealed religion, than all their +Encyclopaedia had said against it. - I was listed directly into +Madame de V-'s COTERIE; - and she put off the epocha of deism for +two years. + +I remember it was in this COTERIE, in the middle of a discourse, in +which I was showing the necessity of a FIRST cause, when the young +Count de Faineant took me by the hand to the farthest corner of the +room, to tell me my SOLITAIRE was pinn'd too straight about my +neck. - It should be PLUS BADINANT, said the Count, looking down +upon his own; - but a word, Monsieur Yorick, TO THE WISE - + +And FROM THE WISE, Monsieur le Count, replied I, making him a bow, +- IS ENOUGH. + +The Count de Faineant embraced me with more ardour than ever I was +embraced by mortal man. + +For three weeks together I was of every man's opinion I met. - +PARDI! CE MONSIEUR YORICK A AUTANT D'ESPRIT QUE NOUS AUTRES. - IL +RAISONNE BIEN, said another. - C'EST UN BON ENFANT, said a third. - +And at this price I could have eaten and drank and been merry all +the days of my life at Paris; but 'twas a dishonest RECKONING; - I +grew ashamed of it. - It was the gain of a slave; - every sentiment +of honour revolted against it; - the higher I got, the more was I +forced upon my BEGGARLY SYSTEM; - the better the COTERIE, - the +more children of Art; - I languish'd for those of Nature: and one +night, after a most vile prostitution of myself to half a dozen +different people, I grew sick, - went to bed; - order'd La Fleur to +get me horses in the morning to set out for Italy. + + +MARIA. MOULINES. + + +I NEVER felt what the distress of plenty was in any one shape till +now, - to travel it through the Bourbonnois, the sweetest part of +France, - in the heyday of the vintage, when Nature is pouring her +abundance into every one's lap, and every eye is lifted up, - a +journey, through each step of which Music beats time to LABOUR, and +all her children are rejoicing as they carry in their clusters: to +pass through this with my affections flying out, and kindling at +every group before me, - and every one of them was pregnant with +adventures. - + +Just heaven! - it would fill up twenty volumes; - and alas! I have +but a few small pages left of this to crowd it into, - and half of +these must be taken up with the poor Maria my friend, Mr. Shandy, +met with near Moulines. + +The story he had told of that disordered maid affected me not a +little in the reading; but when I got within the neighbourhood +where she lived, it returned so strong into the mind, that I could +not resist an impulse which prompted me to go half a league out of +the road, to the village where her parents dwelt, to enquire after +her. + +'Tis going, I own, like the Knight of the Woeful Countenance in +quest of melancholy adventures. But I know not how it is, but I am +never so perfectly conscious of the existence of a soul within me, +as when I am entangled in them. + +The old mother came to the door; her looks told me the story before +she open'd her mouth. - She had lost her husband; he had died, she +said, of anguish, for the loss of Maria's senses, about a month +before. - She had feared at first, she added, that it would have +plunder'd her poor girl of what little understanding was left; - +but, on the contrary, it had brought her more to herself: - still, +she could not rest. - Her poor daughter, she said, crying, was +wandering somewhere about the road. + +Why does my pulse beat languid as I write this? and what made La +Fleur, whose heart seem'd only to be tuned to joy, to pass the back +of his hand twice across his eyes, as the woman stood and told it? +I beckoned to the postilion to turn back into the road. + +When we had got within half a league of Moulines, at a little +opening in the road leading to a thicket, I discovered poor Maria +sitting under a poplar. She was sitting with her elbow in her lap, +and her head leaning on one side within her hand: - a small brook +ran at the foot of the tree. + +I bid the postilion go on with the chaise to Moulines - and La +Fleur to bespeak my supper; - and that I would walk after him. + +She was dress'd in white, and much as my friend described her, +except that her hair hung loose, which before was twisted within a +silk net. - She had superadded likewise to her jacket, a pale green +riband, which fell across her shoulder to the waist; at the end of +which hung her pipe. - Her goat had been as faithless as her lover; +and she had got a little dog in lieu of him, which she had kept +tied by a string to her girdle: as I looked at her dog, she drew +him towards her with the string. - "Thou shalt not leave me, +Sylvio," said she. I look'd in Maria's eyes and saw she was +thinking more of her father than of her lover, or her little goat; +for, as she utter'd them, the tears trickled down her cheeks. + +I sat down close by her; and Maria let me wipe them away as they +fell, with my handkerchief. - I then steep'd it in my own, - and +then in hers, - and then in mine, - and then I wip'd hers again; - +and as I did it, I felt such undescribable emotions within me, as I +am sure could not be accounted for from any combinations of matter +and motion. + +I am positive I have a soul; nor can all the books with which +materialists have pester'd the world ever convince me to the +contrary. + + +MARIA. + + +WHEN Maria had come a little to herself, I ask'd her if she +remembered a pale thin person of a man, who had sat down betwixt +her and her goat about two years before? She said she was +unsettled much at that time, but remembered it upon two accounts: - +that ill as she was, she saw the person pitied her; and next, that +her goat had stolen his handkerchief, and she had beat him for the +theft; - she had wash'd it, she said, in the brook, and kept it +ever since in her pocket to restore it to him in case she should +ever see him again, which, she added, he had half promised her. As +she told me this, she took the handkerchief out of her pocket to +let me see it; she had folded it up neatly in a couple of vine +leaves, tied round with a tendril; - on opening it, I saw an S. +marked in one of the corners. + +She had since that, she told me, stray'd as far as Rome, and walk'd +round St. Peter's once, - and return'd back; - that she found her +way alone across the Apennines; - had travell'd over all Lombardy, +without money, - and through the flinty roads of Savoy without +shoes: - how she had borne it, and how she had got supported, she +could not tell; - but GOD TEMPERS THE WIND, said Maria, TO THE +SHORN LAMB. + +Shorn indeed! and to the quick, said I: and wast thou in my own +land, where I have a cottage, I would take thee to it, and shelter +thee: thou shouldst eat of my own bread and drink of my own cup; - +I would be kind to thy Sylvio; - in all thy weaknesses and +wanderings I would seek after thee and bring thee back; - when the +sun went down I would say my prayers: and when I had done thou +shouldst play thy evening song upon thy pipe, nor would the incense +of my sacrifice be worse accepted for entering heaven along with +that of a broken heart! + +Nature melted within me, as I utter'd this; and Maria observing, as +I took out my handkerchief, that it was steep'd too much already to +be of use, would needs go wash it in the stream. - And where will +you dry it, Maria? said I. - I'll dry it in my bosom, said she: - +'twill do me good. + +And is your heart still so warm, Maria? said I. + +I touch'd upon the string on which hung all her sorrows: - she +look'd with wistful disorder for some time in my face; and then, +without saying any thing, took her pipe and play'd her service to +the Virgin. - The string I had touched ceased to vibrate; - in a +moment or two Maria returned to herself, - let her pipe fall, - and +rose up. + +And where are you going, Maria? said I. - She said, to Moulines. - +Let us go, said I, together. - Maria put her arm within mine, and +lengthening the string, to let the dog follow, - in that order we +enter'd Moulines. + + +MARIA. MOULINES. + + +THOUGH I hate salutations and greetings in the market-place, yet, +when we got into the middle of this, I stopp'd to take my last look +and last farewell of Maria. + +Maria, though not tall, was nevertheless of the first order of fine +forms: - affliction had touched her looks with something that was +scarce earthly; - still she was feminine; - and so much was there +about her of all that the heart wishes, or the eye looks for in +woman, that could the traces be ever worn out of her brain, and +those of Eliza out of mine, she should NOT ONLY EAT OF MY BREAD AND +DRINK OF MY OWN CUP, but Maria should lie in my bosom, and be unto +me as a daughter. + +Adieu, poor luckless maiden! - Imbibe the oil and wine which the +compassion of a stranger, as he journeyeth on his way, now pours +into thy wounds; - the Being, who has twice bruised thee, can only +bind them up for ever. + + +THE BOURBONNNOIS. + + +THERE was nothing from which I had painted out for my self so +joyous a riot of the affections, as in this journey in the vintage, +through this part of France; but pressing through this gate, of +sorrow to it, my sufferings have totally unfitted me. In every +scene of festivity, I saw Maria in the background of the piece, +sitting pensive under her poplar; and I had got almost to Lyons +before I was able to cast a shade across her. + +- Dear Sensibility! source inexhausted of all that's precious in +our joys, or costly in our sorrows! thou chainest thy martyr down +upon his bed of straw - and 'tis thou who lift'st him up to Heaven! +- Eternal Fountain of our feelings! - 'tis here I trace thee - and +this is thy "DIVINITY WHICH STIRS WITHIN ME;" - not that, in some +sad and sickening moments, "MY SOUL SHRINKS BACK UPON HERSELF, AND +STARTLES AT DESTRUCTION;" - mere pomp of words! - but that I feel +some generous joys and generous cares beyond myself; - all comes +from thee, great - great SENSORIUM of the world! which vibrates, if +a hair of our heads but falls upon the ground, in the remotest +desert of thy creation. - Touch'd with thee, Eugenius draws my +curtain when I languish - hears my tale of symptoms, and blames the +weather for the disorder of his nerves. Thou giv'st a portion of +it sometimes to the roughest peasant who traverses the bleakest +mountains; - he finds the lacerated lamb of another's flock. - This +moment I behold him leaning with his head against his crook, with +piteous inclination looking down upon it! - Oh! had I come one +moment sooner! it bleeds to death! - his gentle heart bleeds with +it. - + +Peace to thee, generous swain! - I see thou walkest off with +anguish, - but thy joys shall balance it; - for, happy is thy +cottage, - and happy is the sharer of it, - and happy are the lambs +which sport about you! + + +THE SUPPER. + + +A SHOE coming loose from the fore foot of the thill-horse, at the +beginning of the ascent of mount Taurira, the postilion dismounted, +twisted the shoe off, and put it in his pocket; as the ascent was +of five or six miles, and that horse our main dependence, I made a +point of having the shoe fastened on again, as well as we could; +but the postilion had thrown away the nails, and the hammer in the +chaise box being of no great use without them, I submitted to go +on. + +He had not mounted half a mile higher, when, coming to a flinty +piece of road, the poor devil lost a second shoe, and from off his +other fore foot. I then got out of the chaise in good earnest; and +seeing a house about a quarter of a mile to the left hand, with a +great deal to do I prevailed upon the postilion to turn up to it. +The look of the house, and of every thing about it, as we drew +nearer, soon reconciled me to the disaster. - It was a little farm- +house, surrounded with about twenty acres of vineyard, about as +much corn; - and close to the house, on one side, was a POTAGERIE +of an acre and a half, full of everything which could make plenty +in a French peasant's house; - and, on the other side, was a little +wood, which furnished wherewithal to dress it. It was about eight +in the evening when I got to the house - so I left the postilion to +manage his point as he could; - and, for mine, I walked directly +into the house. + +The family consisted of an old grey-headed man and his wife, with +five or six sons and sons-in-law, and their several wives, and a +joyous genealogy out of them. + +They were all sitting down together to their lentil-soup; a large +wheaten loaf was in the middle of the table; and a flagon of wine +at each end of it promised joy through the stages of the repast: - +'twas a feast of love. + +The old man rose up to meet me, and with a respectful cordiality +would have me sit down at the table; my heart was set down the +moment I enter'd the room; so I sat down at once like a son of the +family; and to invest myself in the character as speedily as I +could, I instantly borrowed the old man's knife, and taking up the +loaf, cut myself a hearty luncheon; and, as I did it, I saw a +testimony in every eye, not only of an honest welcome, but of a +welcome mix'd with thanks that I had not seem'd to doubt it. + +Was it this? or tell me, Nature, what else it was that made this +morsel so sweet, - and to what magic I owe it, that the draught I +took of their flagon was so delicious with it, that they remain +upon my palate to this hour? + +If the supper was to my taste, - the grace which followed it was +much more so. + + +THE GRACE. + + +WHEN supper was over, the old man gave a knock upon the table with +the haft of his knife, to bid them prepare for the dance: the +moment the signal was given, the women and girls ran altogether +into a back apartment to tie up their hair, - and the young men to +the door to wash their faces, and change their sabots; and in three +minutes every soul was ready upon a little esplanade before the +house to begin. - The old man and his wife came out last, and +placing me betwixt them, sat down upon a sofa of turf by the door. + +The old man had some fifty years ago been no mean performer upon +the vielle, - and at the age he was then of, touch'd it well enough +for the purpose. His wife sung now and then a little to the tune, +- then intermitted, - and join'd her old man again, as their +children and grand-children danced before them. + +It was not till the middle of the second dance, when, from some +pauses in the movements, wherein they all seemed to look up, I +fancied I could distinguish an elevation of spirit different from +that which is the cause or the effect of simple jollity. In a +word, I thought I beheld RELIGION mixing in the dance: - but, as I +had never seen her so engaged, I should have look'd upon it now as +one of the illusions of an imagination which is eternally +misleading me, had not the old man, as soon as the dance ended, +said, that this was their constant way; and that all his life long +he had made it a rule, after supper was over, to call out his +family to dance and rejoice; believing, he said, that a cheerful +and contented mind was the best sort of thanks to heaven that an +illiterate peasant could pay, - + +Or a learned prelate either, said I. + + +THE CASE OF DELICACY. + + +WHEN you have gained the top of Mount Taurira, you run presently +down to Lyons: - adieu, then, to all rapid movements! 'Tis a +journey of caution; and it fares better with sentiments, not to be +in a hurry with them; so I contracted with a voiturin to take his +time with a couple of mules, and convoy me in my own chaise safe to +Turin, through Savoy. + +Poor, patient, quiet, honest people! fear not: your poverty, the +treasury of your simple virtues, will not be envied you by the +world, nor will your valleys be invaded by it. - Nature! in the +midst of thy disorders, thou art still friendly to the scantiness +thou hast created: with all thy great works about thee, little hast +thou left to give, either to the scythe or to the sickle; - but to +that little thou grantest safety and protection; and sweet are the +dwellings which stand so shelter'd. + +Let the way-worn traveller vent his complaints upon the sudden +turns and dangers of your roads, - your rocks, - your precipices; - +the difficulties of getting up, - the horrors of getting down, - +mountains impracticable, - and cataracts, which roll down great +stones from their summits, and block his road up. - The peasants +had been all day at work in removing a fragment of this kind +between St. Michael and Madane; and, by the time my voiturin got to +the place, it wanted full two hours of completing before a passage +could any how be gain'd: there was nothing but to wait with +patience; - 'twas a wet and tempestuous night; so that by the +delay, and that together, the voiturin found himself obliged to put +up five miles short of his stage at a little decent kind of an inn +by the roadside. + +I forthwith took possession of my bedchamber - got a good fire - +order'd supper; and was thanking heaven it was no worse, when a +voiture arrived with a lady in it and her servant maid. + +As there was no other bed-chamber in the house, the hostess, - +without much nicety, led them into mine, telling them, as she +usher'd them in, that there was nobody in it but an English +gentleman; - that there were two good beds in it, and a closet +within the room which held another. The accent in which she spoke +of this third bed, did not say much for it; - however, she said +there were three beds and but three people, and she durst say, the +gentleman would do anything to accommodate matters. - I left not +the lady a moment to make a conjecture about it - so instantly made +a declaration that I would do anything in my power. + +As this did not amount to an absolute surrender of my bed-chamber, +I still felt myself so much the proprietor, as to have a right to +do the honours of it; - so I desired the lady to sit down, - +pressed her into the warmest seat, - called for more wood, - +desired the hostess to enlarge the plan of the supper, and to +favour us with the very best wine. + +The lady had scarce warm'd herself five minutes at the fire, before +she began to turn her head back, and give a look at the beds; and +the oftener she cast her eyes that way, the more they return'd +perplexd; - I felt for her - and for myself: for in a few minutes, +what by her looks, and the case itself, I found myself as much +embarrassed as it was possible the lady could be herself. + +That the beds we were to lie in were in one and the same room, was +enough simply by itself to have excited all this; - but the +position of them, for they stood parallel, and so very close to +each other as only to allow space for a small wicker chair betwixt +them, rendered the affair still more oppressive to us; - they were +fixed up moreover near the fire; and the projection of the chimney +on one side, and a large beam which cross'd the room on the other, +formed a kind of recess for them that was no way favourable to the +nicety of our sensations: - if anything could have added to it, it +was that the two beds were both of them so very small, as to cut us +off from every idea of the lady and the maid lying together; which +in either of them, could it have been feasible, my lying beside +them, though a thing not to be wish'd, yet there was nothing in it +so terrible which the imagination might not have pass'd over +without torment. + +As for the little room within, it offer'd little or no consolation +to us: 'twas a damp, cold closet, with a half dismantled window- +shutter, and with a window which had neither glass nor oil paper in +it to keep out the tempest of the night. I did not endeavour to +stifle my cough when the lady gave a peep into it; so it reduced +the case in course to this alternative - That the lady should +sacrifice her health to her feelings, and take up with the closet +herself, and abandon the bed next mine to her maid, - or that the +girl should take the closet, &c., &c. + +The lady was a Piedmontese of about thirty, with a glow of health +in her cheeks. The maid was a Lyonoise of twenty, and as brisk and +lively a French girl as ever moved. - There were difficulties every +way, - and the obstacle of the stone in the road, which brought us +into the distress, great as it appeared whilst the peasants were +removing it, was but a pebble to what lay in our ways now. - I have +only to add, that it did not lessen the weight which hung upon our +spirits, that we were both too delicate to communicate what we felt +to each other upon the occasion. + +We sat down to supper; and had we not had more generous wine to it +than a little inn in Savoy could have furnish'd, our tongues had +been tied up, till necessity herself had set them at liberty; - but +the lady having a few bottles of Burgundy in her voiture, sent down +her FILLE DE CHAMBRE for a couple of them; so that by the time +supper was over, and we were left alone, we felt ourselves inspired +with a strength of mind sufficient to talk, at least, without +reserve upon our situation. We turn'd it every way, and debated +and considered it in all kinds of lights in the course of a two +hours' negotiation; at the end of which the articles were settled +finally betwixt us, and stipulated for in form and manner of a +treaty of peace, - and I believe with as much religion and good +faith on both sides as in any treaty which has yet had the honour +of being handed down to posterity. + +They were as follow: - + +First, as the right of the bed-chamber is in Monsieur, - and he +thinking the bed next to the fire to be the warmest, he insists +upon the concession on the lady's side of taking up with it. + +Granted, on the part of Madame; with a proviso, That as the +curtains of that bed are of a flimsy transparent cotton, and appear +likewise too scanty to draw close, that the FILLE DE CHAMBRE shall +fasten up the opening, either by corking pins, or needle and +thread, in such manner as shall be deem'd a sufficient barrier on +the side of Monsieur. + +2dly. It is required on the part of Madame, that Monsieur shall +lie the whole night through in his ROBE DE CHAMBRE. + +Rejected: inasmuch as Monsieur is not worth a ROBE DE CHAMBRE; he +having nothing in his portmanteau but six shirts and a black silk +pair of breeches. + +The mentioning the silk pair of breeches made an entire change of +the article, - for the breeches were accepted as an equivalent for +the ROBE DE CHAMBRE; and so it was stipulated and agreed upon, that +I should lie in my black silk breeches all night. + +3dly. It was insisted upon and stipulated for by the lady, that +after Monsieur was got to bed, and the candle and fire +extinguished, that Monsieur should not speak one single word the +whole night. + +Granted; provided Monsieur's saying his prayers might not be deemed +an infraction of the treaty. + +There was but one point forgot in this treaty, and that was the +manner in which the lady and myself should be obliged to undress +and get to bed; - there was but one way of doing it, and that I +leave to the reader to devise; protesting as I do it, that if it is +not the most delicate in nature, 'tis the fault of his own +imagination, - against which this is not my first complaint. + +Now, when we were got to bed, whether it was the novelty of the +situation, or what it was, I know not; but so it was, I could not +shut my eyes; I tried this side, and that, and turn'd and turn'd +again, till a full hour after midnight; when Nature and patience +both wearing out, - O, my God! said I. + +- You have broke the treaty, Monsieur, said the lady, who had no +more slept than myself. - I begg'd a thousand pardons - but +insisted it was no more than an ejaculation. She maintained 'twas +an entire infraction of the treaty - I maintained it was provided +for in the clause of the third article. + +The lady would by no means give up her point, though she weaken'd +her barrier by it; for in the warmth of the dispute, I could hear +two or three corking pins fall out of the curtain to the ground. + +Upon my word and honour, Madame, said I, - stretching my arm out of +bed by way of asseveration. - + +(I was going to have added, that I would not have trespassed +against the remotest idea of decorum for the world); - + +But the FILLE DE CHAMBRE hearing there were words between us, and +fearing that hostilities would ensue in course, had crept silently +out of her closet, and it being totally dark, had stolen so close +to our beds, that she had got herself into the narrow passage which +separated them, and had advanced so far up as to be in a line +betwixt her mistress and me: - + +So that when I stretch'd out my hand I caught hold of the FILLE DE +CHAMBRE'S - + + +Footnotes: + +(1) Nosegay. + +(2) Hackney coach. + +(3) Plate, napkin, knife, fork and spoon. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg eText A Sentimental Journey through +France and Italy + diff --git a/old/senjr09.zip b/old/senjr09.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1f6cb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/senjr09.zip diff --git a/old/senjr10.txt b/old/senjr10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..63ef2ae --- /dev/null +++ b/old/senjr10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4807 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Sentimental Journey, by Laurence Sterne + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: A Sentimental Journey + +Author: Laurence Sterne + +Release Date: February, 1997 [EBook #804] +[This file was first posted on February 12, 1997] +[Most recently updated: September 25, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY *** + + + + +Transcribed from the 1892 George Bell and Son edition by David +Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk + + + + +A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY + + + + +They order, said I, this matter better in France.--You have been in +France? said my gentleman, turning quick upon me, with the most +civil triumph in the world.--Strange! quoth I, debating the matter +with myself, That one and twenty miles sailing, for 'tis absolutely +no further from Dover to Calais, should give a man these rights: -- +I'll look into them: so, giving up the argument,--I went straight +to my lodgings, put up half a dozen shirts and a black pair of silk +breeches,--"the coat I have on," said I, looking at the sleeve, +"will do;"--took a place in the Dover stage; and the packet sailing +at nine the next morning,--by three I had got sat down to my dinner +upon a fricaseed chicken, so incontestably in France, that had I +died that night of an indigestion, the whole world could not have +suspended the effects of the droits d'aubaine;--my shirts, and +black pair of silk breeches,--portmanteau and all, must have gone +to the King of France;--even the little picture which I have so +long worn, and so often have told thee, Eliza, I would carry with +me into my grave, would have been torn from my neck!--Ungenerous! +to seize upon the wreck of an unwary passenger, whom your subjects +had beckoned to their coast!--By heaven! Sire, it is not well +done; and much does it grieve me, 'tis the monarch of a people so +civilized and courteous, and so renowned for sentiment and fine +feelings, that I have to reason with! - + +But I have scarce set a foot in your dominions. - + + +CALAIS. + + +When I had fished my dinner, and drank the King of France's health, +to satisfy my mind that I bore him no spleen, but, on the contrary, +high honour for the humanity of his temper,--I rose up an inch +taller for the accommodation. + +- No--said I--the Bourbon is by no means a cruel race: they may be +misled, like other people; but there is a mildness in their blood. +As I acknowledged this, I felt a suffusion of a finer kind upon my +cheek--more warm and friendly to man, than what Burgundy (at least +of two livres a bottle, which was such as I had been drinking) +could have produced. + +- Just God! said I, kicking my portmanteau aside, what is there in +this world's goods which should sharpen our spirits, and make so +many kind-hearted brethren of us fall out so cruelly as we do by +the way? + +When man is at peace with man, how much lighter than a feather is +the heaviest of metals in his hand! he pulls out his purse, and +holding it airily and uncompressed, looks round him, as if he +sought for an object to share it with.--In doing this, I felt every +vessel in my frame dilate,--the arteries beat all cheerily +together, and every power which sustained life, performed it with +so little friction, that 'twould have confounded the most physical +precieuse in France; with all her materialism, she could scarce +have called me a machine. - + +I'm confident, said I to myself, I should have overset her creed. + +The accession of that idea carried nature, at that time, as high as +she could go;--I was at peace with the world before, and this +finish'd the treaty with myself. - + +- Now, was I King of France, cried I--what a moment for an orphan +to have begg'd his father's portmanteau of me! + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +I had scarce uttered the words, when a poor monk of the order of +St. Francis came into the room to beg something for a his convent. +No man cares to have his virtues the sport of contingencies--or one +man may be generous, as another is puissant;--sed non quoad hanc-- +or be it as it may,--for there is no regular reasoning upon the +ebbs and flows of our humours; they may depend upon the same +causes, for aught I know, which influence the tides themselves: +'twould oft be no discredit to us, to suppose it was so: I'm sure +at least for myself, that in many a case I should be more highly +satisfied, to have it said by the world, "I had had an affair with +the moon, in which there was neither sin nor shame," than have it +pass altogether as my own act and deed, wherein there was so much +of both. + +- But, be this as it may,--the moment I cast my eyes upon him, I +was predetermined not to give him a single sous; and, accordingly, +I put my purse into my pocket--buttoned it--set myself a little +more upon my centre, and advanced up gravely to him; there was +something, I fear, forbidding in my look: I have his figure this +moment before my eyes, and think there was that in it which +deserved better. + +The monk, as I judged by the break in his tonsure, a few scattered +white hairs upon his temples, being all that remained of it, might +be about seventy;--but from his eyes, and that sort of fire which +was in them, which seemed more temper'd by courtesy than years, +could be no more than sixty: --Truth might lie between--He was +certainly sixty-five; and the general air of his countenance, +notwithstanding something seem'd to have been planting-wrinkles in +it before their time, agreed to the account. + +It was one of those heads which Guido has often painted,--mild, +pale--penetrating, free from all commonplace ideas of fat contented +ignorance looking downwards upon the earth;--it look'd forwards; +but look'd as if it look'd at something beyond this world.--How one +of his order came by it, heaven above, who let it fall upon a +monk's shoulders best knows: but it would have suited a Bramin, +and had I met it upon the plains of Indostan, I had reverenced it. + +The rest of his outline may be given in a few strokes; one might +put it into the hands of any one to design, for 'twas neither +elegant nor otherwise, but as character and expression made it so: +it was a thin, spare form, something above the common size, if it +lost not the distinction by a bend forward in the figure,--but it +was the attitude of Intreaty; and, as it now stands presented to my +imagination, it gained more than it lost by it. + +When he had entered the room three paces, he stood still; and +laying his left hand upon his breast (a slender white staff with +which he journey'd being in his right)--when I had got close up to +him, he introduced himself with the little story of the wants of +his convent, and the poverty of his order;--and did it with so +simple a grace,--and such an air of deprecation was there in the +whole cast of his look and figure,--I was bewitch'd not to have +been struck with it. + +- A better reason was, I had predetermined not to give him a single +sous. + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +- 'Tis very true, said I, replying to a cast upwards with his eyes, +with which he had concluded his address;--'tis very true,--and +heaven be their resource who have no other but the charity of the +world, the stock of which, I fear, is no way sufficient for the +many GREAT CLAIMS which are hourly made upon it. + +As I pronounced the words GREAT CLAIMS, he gave a slight glance +with his eye downwards upon the sleeve of his tunic: --I felt the +full force of the appeal--I acknowledge it, said I: --a coarse +habit, and that but once in three years with meagre diet,--are no +great matters; and the true point of pity is, as they can be earn'd +in the world with so little industry, that your order should wish +to procure them by pressing upon a fund which is the property of +the lame, the blind, the aged and the infirm;--the captive who lies +down counting over and over again the days of his afflictions, +languishes also for his share of it; and had you been of the ORDER +OF MERCY, instead of the order of St. Francis, poor as I am, +continued I, pointing at my portmanteau, full cheerfully should it +have been open'd to you, for the ransom of the unfortunate.--The +monk made me a bow.--But of all others, resumed I, the unfortunate +of our own country, surely, have the first rights; and I have left +thousands in distress upon our own shore.--The monk gave a cordial +wave with his head,--as much as to say, No doubt there is misery +enough in every corner of the world, as well as within our convent- +-But we distinguish, said I, laying my hand upon the sleeve of his +tunic, in return for his appeal--we distinguish, my good father! +betwixt those who wish only to eat the bread of their own labour-- +and those who eat the bread of other people's, and have no other +plan in life, but to get through it in sloth and ignorance, FOR THE +LOVE OF GOD. + +The poor Franciscan made no reply: a hectic of a moment pass'd +across his cheek, but could not tarry--Nature seemed to have done +with her resentments in him;--he showed none: --but letting his +staff fall within his arms, he pressed both his hands with +resignation upon his breast, and retired. + + +THE MONK. CALAIS. + + +My heart smote me the moment he shut the door--Psha! said I, with +an air of carelessness, three several times--but it would not do: +every ungracious syllable I had utter'd crowded back into my +imagination: I reflected, I had no right over the poor Franciscan, +but to deny him; and that the punishment of that was enough to the +disappointed, without the addition of unkind language.--I +consider'd his gray hairs--his courteous figure seem'd to re-enter +and gently ask me what injury he had done me?--and why I could use +him thus?--I would have given twenty livres for an advocate.--I +have behaved very ill, said I within myself; but I have only just +set out upon my travels; and shall learn better manners as I get +along. + + +THE DESOBLIGEANT. CALAIS. + + +When a man is discontented with himself, it has one advantage +however, that it puts him into an excellent frame of mind for +making a bargain. Now there being no travelling through France and +Italy without a chaise,--and nature generally prompting us to the +thing we are fittest for, I walk'd out into the coach-yard to buy +or hire something of that kind to my purpose: an old desobligeant +in the furthest corner of the court, hit my fancy at first sight, +so I instantly got into it, and finding it in tolerable harmony +with my feelings, I ordered the waiter to call Monsieur Dessein, +the master of the hotel: --but Monsieur Dessein being gone to +vespers, and not caring to face the Franciscan, whom I saw on the +opposite side of the court, in conference with a lady just arrived +at the inn,--I drew the taffeta curtain betwixt us, and being +determined to write my journey, I took out my pen and ink and wrote +the preface to it in the desobligeant. + + +PREFACE. IN THE DESOBLIGEANT. + + +It must have been observed by many a peripatetic philosopher, That +nature has set up by her own unquestionable authority certain +boundaries and fences to circumscribe the discontent of man; she +has effected her purpose in the quietest and easiest manner by +laying him under almost insuperable obligations to work out his +ease, and to sustain his sufferings at home. It is there only that +she has provided him with the most suitable objects to partake of +his happiness, and bear a part of that burden which in all +countries and ages has ever been too heavy for one pair of +shoulders. 'Tis true, we are endued with an imperfect power of +spreading our happiness sometimes beyond HER limits, but 'tis so +ordered, that, from the want of languages, connections, and +dependencies, and from the difference in education, customs, and +habits, we lie under so many impediments in communicating our +sensations out of our own sphere, as often amount to a total +impossibility. + +It will always follow from hence, that the balance of sentimental +commerce is always against the expatriated adventurer: he must buy +what he has little occasion for, at their own price;--his +conversation will seldom be taken in exchange for theirs without a +large discount,--and this, by the by, eternally driving him into +the hands of more equitable brokers, for such conversation as he +can find, it requires no great spirit of divination to guess at his +party - + +This brings me to my point; and naturally leads me (if the see-saw +of this desobligeant will but let me get on) into the efficient as +well as final causes of travelling - + +Your idle people that leave their native country, and go abroad for +some reason or reasons which may be derived from one of these +general causes:- + + +Infirmity of body, +Imbecility of mind, or +Inevitable necessity. + + +The first two include all those who travel by land or by water, +labouring with pride, curiosity, vanity, or spleen, subdivided and +combined ad infinitum. + +The third class includes the whole army of peregrine martyrs; more +especially those travellers who set out upon their travels with the +benefit of the clergy, either as delinquents travelling under the +direction of governors recommended by the magistrate;--or young +gentlemen transported by the cruelty of parents and guardians, and +travelling under the direction of governors recommended by Oxford, +Aberdeen, and Glasgow. + +There is a fourth class, but their number is so small that they +would not deserve a distinction, were it not necessary in a work of +this nature to observe the greatest precision and nicety, to avoid +a confusion of character. And these men I speak of, are such as +cross the seas and sojourn in a land of strangers, with a view of +saving money for various reasons and upon various pretences: but +as they might also save themselves and others a great deal of +unnecessary trouble by saving their money at home,--and as their +reasons for travelling are the least complex of any other species +of emigrants, I shall distinguish these gentlemen by the name of + + +Simple Travellers. + + +Thus the whole circle of travellers may be reduced to the following +HEADS:- + + +Idle Travellers, +Inquisitive Travellers, +Lying Travellers, +Proud Travellers, +Vain Travellers, +Splenetic Travellers. + + +Then follow: + + +The Travellers of Necessity, +The Delinquent and Felonious Traveller, +The Unfortunate and Innocent Traveller, +The Simple Traveller, + + +And last of all (if you please) The Sentimental Traveller, (meaning +thereby myself) who have travell'd, and of which I am now sitting +down to give an account,--as much out of NECESSITY, and the besoin +de Voyager, as any one in the class. + +I am well aware, at the same time, as both my travels and +observations will be altogether of a different cast from any of my +forerunners, that I might have insisted upon a whole nitch entirely +to myself;--but I should break in upon the confines of the VAIN +Traveller, in wishing to draw attention towards me, till I have +some better grounds for it than the mere NOVELTY OF MY VEHICLE. + +It is sufficient for my reader, if he has been a traveller himself, +that with study and reflection hereupon he may be able to determine +his own place and rank in the catalogue;--it will be one step +towards knowing himself; as it is great odds but he retains some +tincture and resemblance, of what he imbibed or carried out, to the +present hour. + +The man who first transplanted the grape of Burgundy to the Cape of +Good Hope (observe he was a Dutchman) never dreamt of drinking the +same wine at the Cape, that the same grape produced upon the French +mountains,--he was too phlegmatic for that--but undoubtedly he +expected to drink some sort of vinous liquor; but whether good or +bad, or indifferent,--he knew enough of this world to know, that it +did not depend upon his choice, but that what is generally called +CHOICE, was to decide his success: however, he hoped for the best; +and in these hopes, by an intemperate confidence in the fortitude +of his head, and the depth of his discretion, Mynheer might +possibly oversee both in his new vineyard; and by discovering his +nakedness, become a laughing stock to his people. + +Even so it fares with the Poor Traveller, sailing and posting +through the politer kingdoms of the globe, in pursuit of knowledge +and improvements. + +Knowledge and improvements are to be got by sailing and posting for +that purpose; but whether useful knowledge and real improvements is +all a lottery;--and even where the adventurer is successful, the +acquired stock must be used with caution and sobriety, to turn to +any profit: --but, as the chances run prodigiously the other way, +both as to the acquisition and application, I am of opinion, That a +man would act as wisely, if he could prevail upon himself to live +contented without foreign knowledge or foreign improvements, +especially if he lives in a country that has no absolute want of +either;--and indeed, much grief of heart has it oft and many a time +cost me, when I have observed how many a foul step the Inquisitive +Traveller has measured to see sights and look into discoveries; all +which, as Sancho Panza said to Don Quixote, they might have seen +dry-shod at home. It is an age so full of light, that there is +scarce a country or corner in Europe whose beams are not crossed +and interchanged with others.--Knowledge in most of its branches, +and in most affairs, is like music in an Italian street, whereof +those may partake who pay nothing.--But there is no nation under +heaven--and God is my record (before whose tribunal I must one day +come and give an account of this work)--that I do not speak it +vauntingly,--but there is no nation under heaven abounding with +more variety of learning,--where the sciences may be more fitly +woo'd, or more surely won, than here,--where art is encouraged, and +will so soon rise high,--where Nature (take her altogether) has so +little to answer for,--and, to close all, where there is more wit +and variety of character to feed the mind with: --Where then, my +dear countrymen, are you going? - + +We are only looking at this chaise, said they.--Your most obedient +servant, said I, skipping out of it, and pulling off my hat.--We +were wondering, said one of them, who, I found was an Inquisitive +Traveller,--what could occasion its motion.--'Twas the agitation, +said I, coolly, of writing a preface.--I never heard, said the +other, who was a Simple Traveller, of a preface wrote in a +desobligeant.--It would have been better, said I, in a vis-a-vis. + +- As an Englishman does not travel to see Englishmen, I retired to +my room. + + +CALAIS. + + +I perceived that something darken'd the passage more than myself, +as I stepp'd along it to my room; it was effectually Mons. Dessein, +the master of the hotel, who had just returned from vespers, and +with his hat under his arm, was most complaisantly following me, to +put me in mind of my wants. I had wrote myself pretty well out of +conceit with the desobligeant, and Mons. Dessein speaking of it, +with a shrug, as if it would no way suit me, it immediately struck +my fancy that it belong'd to some Innocent Traveller, who, on his +return home, had left it to Mons. Dessein's honour to make the most +of. Four months had elapsed since it had finished its career of +Europe in the corner of Mons. Dessein's coach-yard; and having +sallied out from thence but a vampt-up business at the first, +though it had been twice taken to pieces on Mount Sennis, it had +not profited much by its adventures,--but by none so little as the +standing so many months unpitied in the corner of Mons. Dessein's +coach-yard. Much indeed was not to be said for it,--but something +might;--and when a few words will rescue misery out of her +distress, I hate the man who can be a churl of them. + +- Now was I the master of this hotel, said I, laying the point of +my fore-finger on Mons. Dessein's breast, I would inevitably make a +point of getting rid of this unfortunate desobligeant;--it stands +swinging reproaches at you every time you pass by it. + +Mon Dieu! said Mons. Dessein,--I have no interest--Except the +interest, said I, which men of a certain turn of mind take, Mons. +Dessein, in their own sensations,--I'm persuaded, to a man who +feels for others as well as for himself, every rainy night, +disguise it as you will, must cast a damp upon your spirits: --You +suffer, Mons. Dessein, as much as the machine - + +I have always observed, when there is as much sour as sweet in a +compliment, that an Englishman is eternally at a loss within +himself, whether to take it, or let it alone: a Frenchman never +is: Mons. Dessein made me a bow. + +C'est bien vrai, said he.--But in this case I should only exchange +one disquietude for another, and with loss: figure to yourself, my +dear Sir, that in giving you a chaise which would fall to pieces +before you had got half-way to Paris,--figure to yourself how much +I should suffer, in giving an ill impression of myself to a man of +honour, and lying at the mercy, as I must do, d'un homme d'esprit. + +The dose was made up exactly after my own prescription; so I could +not help tasting it,--and, returning Mons. Dessein his bow, without +more casuistry we walk'd together towards his Remise, to take a +view of his magazine of chaises. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +It must needs be a hostile kind of a world, when the buyer (if it +be but of a sorry post-chaise) cannot go forth with the seller +thereof into the street to terminate the difference betwixt them, +but he instantly falls into the same frame of mind, and views his +conventionist with the same sort of eye, as if he was going along +with him to Hyde-park corner to fight a duel. For my own part, +being but a poor swordsman, and no way a match for Monsieur +Dessein, I felt the rotation of all the movements within me, to +which the situation is incident;--I looked at Monsieur Dessein +through and through--eyed him as he walk'd along in profile,--then, +en face;--thought like a Jew,--then a Turk,--disliked his wig,-- +cursed him by my gods,--wished him at the devil. - + +- And is all this to be lighted up in the heart for a beggarly +account of three or four louis d'ors, which is the most I can be +overreached in?--Base passion! said I, turning myself about, as a +man naturally does upon a sudden reverse of sentiment,--base, +ungentle passion! thy hand is against every man, and every man's +hand against thee.--Heaven forbid! said she, raising her hand up to +her forehead, for I had turned full in front upon the lady whom I +had seen in conference with the monk: --she had followed us +unperceived.--Heaven forbid, indeed! said I, offering her my own;-- +she had a black pair of silk gloves, open only at the thumb and two +fore-fingers, so accepted it without reserve,--and I led her up to +the door of the Remise. + +Monsieur Dessein had diabled the key above fifty times before he +had found out he had come with a wrong one in his hand: we were as +impatient as himself to have it opened; and so attentive to the +obstacle that I continued holding her hand almost without knowing +it: so that Monsieur Dessein left us together with her hand in +mine, and with our faces turned towards the door of the Remise, and +said he would be back in five minutes. + +Now a colloquy of five minutes, in such a situation, is worth one +of as many ages, with your faces turned towards the street: in the +latter case, 'tis drawn from the objects and occurrences without;-- +when your eyes are fixed upon a dead blank,--you draw purely from +yourselves. A silence of a single moment upon Mons. Dessein's +leaving us, had been fatal to the situation--she had infallibly +turned about;--so I begun the conversation instantly. - + +- But what were the temptations (as I write not to apologize for +the weaknesses of my heart in this tour,--but to give an account of +them)--shall be described with the same simplicity with which I +felt them. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +When I told the reader that I did not care to get out of the +desobligeant, because I saw the monk in close conference with a +lady just arrived at the inn--I told him the truth,--but I did not +tell him the whole truth; for I was as full as much restrained by +the appearance and figure of the lady he was talking to. Suspicion +crossed my brain and said, he was telling her what had passed: +something jarred upon it within me,--I wished him at his convent. + +When the heart flies out before the understanding, it saves the +judgment a world of pains.--I was certain she was of a better order +of beings;--however, I thought no more of her, but went on and +wrote my preface. + +The impression returned upon my encounter with her in the street; a +guarded frankness with which she gave me her hand, showed, I +thought, her good education and her good sense; and as I led her +on, I felt a pleasurable ductility about her, which spread a +calmness over all my spirits - + +- Good God! how a man might lead such a creature as this round the +world with him! - + +I had not yet seen her face--'twas not material: for the drawing +was instantly set about, and long before we had got to the door of +the Remise, Fancy had finished the whole head, and pleased herself +as much with its fitting her goddess, as if she had dived into the +Tiber for it;--but thou art a seduced, and a seducing slut; and +albeit thou cheatest us seven times a day with thy pictures and +images, yet with so many charms dost thou do it, and thou deckest +out thy pictures in the shapes of so many angels of light, 'tis a +shame to break with thee. + +When we had got to the door of the Remise, she withdrew her hand +from across her forehead, and let me see the original: --it was a +face of about six-and-twenty,--of a clear transparent brown, simply +set off without rouge or powder;--it was not critically handsome, +but there was that in it, which, in the frame of mind I was in, +attached me much more to it,--it was interesting: I fancied it +wore the characters of a widow'd look, and in that state of its +declension, which had passed the two first paroxysms of sorrow, and +was quietly beginning to reconcile itself to its loss;--but a +thousand other distresses might have traced the same lines; I +wish'd to know what they had been--and was ready to inquire, (had +the same bon ton of conversation permitted, as in the days of +Esdras)--"What ailelh thee? and why art thou disquieted? and why is +thy understanding troubled?"--In a word, I felt benevolence for +her; and resolv'd some way or other to throw in my mite of +courtesy,--if not of service. + +Such were my temptations;--and in this disposition to give way to +them, was I left alone with the lady with her hand in mine, and +with our faces both turned closer to the door of the Remise than +what was absolutely necessary. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +This certainly, fair lady, said I, raising her hand up little +lightly as I began, must be one of Fortune's whimsical doings; to +take two utter strangers by their hands,--of different sexes, and +perhaps from different corners of the globe, and in one moment +place them together in such a cordial situation as Friendship +herself could scarce have achieved for them, had she projected it +for a month. + +- And your reflection upon it shows how much, Monsieur, she has +embarrassed you by the adventure - + +When the situation is what we would wish, nothing is so ill-timed +as to hint at the circumstances which make it so: you thank +Fortune, continued she--you had reason--the heart knew it, and was +satisfied; and who but an English philosopher would have sent +notice of it to the brain to reverse the judgment? + +In saying this, she disengaged her hand with a look which I thought +a sufficient commentary upon the text. + +It is a miserable picture which I am going to give of the weakness +of my heart, by owning, that it suffered a pain, which worthier +occasions could not have inflicted.--I was mortified with the loss +of her hand, and the manner in which I had lost it carried neither +oil nor wine to the wound: I never felt the pain of a sheepish +inferiority so miserably in my life. + +The triumphs of a true feminine heart are short upon these +discomfitures. In a very few seconds she laid her hand upon the +cuff of my coat, in order to finish her reply; so, some way or +other, God knows how, I regained my situation. + +- She had nothing to add. + +I forthwith began to model a different conversation for the lady, +thinking from the spirit as well as moral of this, that I had been +mistaken in her character; but upon turning her face towards me, +the spirit which had animated the reply was fled,--the muscles +relaxed, and I beheld the same unprotected look of distress which +first won me to her interest: --melancholy! to see such +sprightliness the prey of sorrow,--I pitied her from my soul; and +though it may seem ridiculous enough to a torpid heart,--I could +have taken her into my arms, and cherished her, though it was in +the open street, without brushing. + +The pulsations of the arteries along my fingers pressing across +hers, told her what was passing within me: she looked down--a +silence of some moments followed. + +I fear in this interval, I must have made some slight efforts +towards a closer compression of her hand, from a subtle sensation I +felt in the palm of my own,--not as if she was going to withdraw +hers--but as if she thought about it;--and I had infallibly lost it +a second time, had not instinct more than reason directed me to the +last resource in these dangers,--to hold it loosely, and in a +manner as if I was every moment going to release it, of myself; so +she let it continue, till Monsieur Dessein returned with the key; +and in the mean time I set myself to consider how I should undo the +ill impressions which the poor monk's story, in case he had told it +her, must have planted in her breast against me. + + +THE SNUFF BOX. CALAIS. + + +The good old monk was within six paces of us, as the idea of him +crossed my mind; and was advancing towards us a little out of the +line, as if uncertain whether he should break in upon us or no.--He +stopp'd, however, as soon as he came up to us, with a world of +frankness: and having a horn snuff box in his hand, he presented +it open to me.--You shall taste mine--said I, pulling out my box +(which was a small tortoise one) and putting it into his hand.-- +'Tis most excellent, said the monk. Then do me the favour, I +replied, to accept of the box and all, and when you take a pinch +out of it, sometimes recollect it was the peace offering of a man +who once used you unkindly, but not from his heart. + +The poor monk blush'd as red as scarlet. Mon Dieu! said he, +pressing his hands together--you never used me unkindly.--I should +think, said the lady, he is not likely. I blush'd in my turn; but +from what movements, I leave to the few who feel, to analyze.-- +Excuse me, Madame, replied I,--I treated him most unkindly; and +from no provocations.--'Tis impossible, said the lady.--My God! +cried the monk, with a warmth of asseveration which seem'd not to +belong to him--the fault was in me, and in the indiscretion of my +zeal.--The lady opposed it, and I joined with her in maintaining it +was impossible, that a spirit so regulated as his, could give +offence to any. + +I knew not that contention could be rendered so sweet and +pleasurable a thing to the nerves as I then felt it.--We remained +silent, without any sensation of that foolish pain which takes +place, when, in such a circle, you look for ten minutes in one +another's faces without saying a word. Whilst this lasted, the +monk rubbed his horn box upon the sleeve of his tunic; and as soon +as it had acquired a little air of brightness by the friction--he +made me a low bow, and said, 'twas too late to say whether it was +the weakness or goodness of our tempers which had involved us in +this contest--but be it as it would,--he begg'd we might exchange +boxes.--In saying this, he presented his to me with one hand, as he +took mine from me in the other, and having kissed it,--with a +stream of good nature in his eyes, he put it into his bosom,--and +took his leave. + +I guard this box, as I would the instrumental parts of my religion, +to help my mind on to something better: in truth, I seldom go +abroad without it; and oft and many a time have I called up by it +the courteous spirit of its owner to regulate my own, in the +justlings of the world: they had found full employment for his, as +I learnt from his story, till about the forty-fifth year of his +age, when upon some military services ill requited, and meeting at +the same time with a disappointment in the tenderest of passions, +he abandoned the sword and the sex together, and took sanctuary not +so much in his convent as in himself. + +I feel a damp upon my spirits, as I am going to add, that in my +last return through Calais, upon enquiring after Father Lorenzo, I +heard he had been dead near three months, and was buried, not in +his convent, but, according to his desire, in a little cemetery +belonging to it, about two leagues off: I had a strong desire to +see where they had laid him,--when, upon pulling out his little +horn box, as I sat by his grave, and plucking up a nettle or two at +the head of it, which had no business to grow there, they all +struck together so forcibly upon my affections, that I burst into a +flood of tears: --but I am as weak as a woman; and I beg the world +not to smile, but to pity me. + + +THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS. + + +I had never quitted the lady's hand all this time, and had held it +so long, that it would have been indecent to have let it go, +without first pressing it to my lips: the blood and spirits, which +had suffered a revulsion from her, crowded back to her as I did it. + +Now the two travellers, who had spoke to me in the coach-yard, +happening at that crisis to be passing by, and observing our +communications, naturally took it into their heads that we must be +MAN AND WIFE at least; so, stopping as soon as they came up to the +door of the Remise, the one of them who was the Inquisitive +Traveller, ask'd us, if we set out for Paris the next morning?--I +could only answer for myself, I said; and the lady added, she was +for Amiens.--We dined there yesterday, said the Simple Traveller.-- +You go directly through the town, added the other, in your road to +Paris. I was going to return a thousand thanks for the +intelligence, THAT AMIENS WAS IN THE ROAD TO PARIS, but, upon +pulling out my poor monk's little horn box to take a pinch of +snuff, I made them a quiet bow, and wishing them a good passage to +Dover.--They left us alone. - + +- Now where would be the harm, said I to myself, if I were to beg +of this distressed lady to accept of half of my chaise?--and what +mighty mischief could ensue? + +Every dirty passion, and bad propensity in my nature took the +alarm, as I stated the proposition.--It will oblige you to have a +third horse, said Avarice, which will put twenty livres out of your +pocket;--You know not what she is, said Caution;--or what scrapes +the affair may draw you into, whisper'd Cowardice. - + +Depend upon it, Yorick! said Discretion, 'twill be said you went +off with a mistress, and came by assignation to Calais for that +purpose; - + +- You can never after, cried Hypocrisy aloud, show your face in the +world;--or rise, quoth Meanness, in the church;--or be any thing in +it, said Pride, but a lousy prebendary. + +But 'tis a civil thing, said I;--and as I generally act from the +first impulse, and therefore seldom listen to these cabals, which +serve no purpose, that I know of, but to encompass the heart with +adamant--I turned instantly about to the lady. - + +- But she had glided off unperceived, as the cause was pleading, +and had made ten or a dozen paces down the street, by the time I +had made the determination; so I set off after her with a long +stride, to make her the proposal, with the best address I was +master of: but observing she walk'd with her cheek half resting +upon the palm of her hand,--with the slow short-measur'd step of +thoughtfulness,--and with her eyes, as she went step by step, fixed +upon the ground, it struck me she was trying the same cause +herself.--God help her! said I, she has some mother-in-law, or +tartufish aunt, or nonsensical old woman, to consult upon the +occasion, as well as myself: so not caring to interrupt the +process, and deeming it more gallant to take her at discretion than +by surprise, I faced about and took a short turn or two before the +door of the Remise, whilst she walk'd musing on one side. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +Having, on the first sight of the lady, settled the affair in my +fancy "that she was of the better order of beings;"--and then laid +it down as a second axiom, as indisputable as the first, that she +was a widow, and wore a character of distress,--I went no further; +I got ground enough for the situation which pleased me;--and had +she remained close beside my elbow till midnight, I should have +held true to my system, and considered her only under that general +idea. + +She had scarce got twenty paces distant from me, ere something +within me called out for a more particular enquiry;--it brought on +the idea of a further separation: --I might possibly never see her +more: --The heart is for saving what it can; and I wanted the +traces through which my wishes might find their way to her, in case +I should never rejoin her myself; in a word, I wished to know her +name,--her family's--her condition; and as I knew the place to +which she was going, I wanted to know from whence she came: but +there was no coming at all this intelligence; a hundred little +delicacies stood in the way. I form'd a score different plans.-- +There was no such thing as a man's asking her directly;--the thing +was impossible. + +A little French debonnaire captain, who came dancing down the +street, showed me it was the easiest thing in the world: for, +popping in betwixt us, just as the lady was returning back to the +door of the Remise, he introduced himself to my acquaintance, and +before he had well got announced, begg'd I would do him the honour +to present him to the lady.--I had not been presented myself;--so +turning about to her, he did it just as well, by asking her if she +had come from Paris? No: she was going that route, she said.-- +Vous n'etes pas de Londres?--She was not, she replied.--Then Madame +must have come through Flanders.--Apparemment vous etes Flammande? +said the French captain.--The lady answered, she was.--Peut etre de +Lisle? added he.--She said, she was not of Lisle.--Nor Arras?--nor +Cambray?--nor Ghent?--nor Brussels?--She answered, she was of +Brussels. + +He had had the honour, he said, to be at the bombardment of it last +war;--that it was finely situated, pour cela,--and full of noblesse +when the Imperialists were driven out by the French (the lady made +a slight courtesy)--so giving her an account of the affair, and of +the share he had had in it,--he begg'd the honour to know her +name,--so made his bow. + +- Et Madame a son Mari?--said he, looking back when he had made two +steps,--and, without staying for an answer--danced down the street. + +Had I served seven years apprenticeship to good breeding, I could +not have done as much. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +As the little French captain left us, Mons. Dessein came up with +the key of the Remise in his hand, and forthwith let us into his +magazine of chaises. + +The first object which caught my eye, as Mons. Dessein open'd the +door of the Remise, was another old tatter'd desobligeant; and +notwithstanding it was the exact picture of that which had hit my +fancy so much in the coach-yard but an hour before,--the very sight +of it stirr'd up a disagreeable sensation within me now; and I +thought 'twas a churlish beast into whose heart the idea could +first enter, to construct such a machine; nor had I much more +charity for the man who could think of using it. + +I observed the lady was as little taken with it as myself: so +Mons. Dessein led us on to a couple of chaises which stood abreast, +telling us, as he recommended them, that they had been purchased by +my lord A. and B. to go the grand tour, but had gone no further +than Paris, so were in all respects as good as new.--They were too +good;--so I pass'd on to a third, which stood behind, and forthwith +begun to chaffer for the price.--But 'twill scarce hold two, said +I, opening the door and getting in.--Have the goodness, Madame, +said Mons. Dessein, offering his arm, to step in.--The lady +hesitated half a second, and stepped in; and the waiter that moment +beckoning to speak to Mon. Dessein, he shut the door of the chaise +upon us, and left us. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +C'est bien comique, 'tis very droll, said the lady, smiling, from +the reflection that this was the second time we a had been left +together by a parcel of nonsensical contingencies,--c'est bien +comique, said she. - + +- There wants nothing, said I, to make it so but the comic use +which the gallantry of a Frenchman would put it to,--to make love +the first moment, and an offer of his person the second. + +'Tis their fort, replied the lady. + +It is supposed so at least;--and how it has come to pass, continued +I, I know not; but they have certainly got the credit of +understanding more of love, and making it better than any other +nation upon earth; but, for my own part, I think them arrant +bunglers, and in truth the worst set of marksmen that ever tried +Cupid's patience. + +- To think of making love by SENTIMENTS! + +I should as soon think of making a genteel suit of clothes out of +remnants: --and to do it--pop--at first sight, by declaration--is +submitting the offer, and themselves with it, to be sifted with all +their pours and contres, by an unheated mind. + +The lady attended as if she expected I should go on. + +Consider then, Madame, continued I, laying my hand upon hers:- + +That grave people hate love for the name's sake; - + +That selfish people hate it for their own; - + +Hypocrites for heaven's; - + +And that all of us, both old and young, being ten times worse +frightened than hurt by the very report,--what a want of knowledge +in this branch of commence a man betrays, whoever lets the word +come out of his lips, till an hour or two, at least, after the time +that his silence upon it becomes tormenting. A course of small, +quiet attentions, not so pointed as to alarm,--nor so vague as to +be misunderstood--with now and then a look of kindness, and little +or nothing said upon it,--leaves nature for your mistress, and she +fashions it to her mind. - + +Then I solemnly declare, said the lady, blushing, you have been +making love to me all this while. + + +THE REMISE. CALAIS. + + +Monsieur Dessein came back to let us out of the chaise, and +acquaint the lady, the count de L-, her brother, was just arrived +at the hotel. Though I had infinite good will for the lady, I +cannot say that I rejoiced in my heart at the event--and could not +help telling her so;--for it is fatal to a proposal, Madame, said +I, that I was going to make to you - + +- You need not tell me what the proposal was, said she, laying her +hand upon both mine, as she interrupted me.--A man my good Sir, has +seldom an offer of kindness to make to a woman, but she has a +presentiment of it some moments before. - + +Nature arms her with it, said I, for immediate preservation.--But I +think, said she, looking in my face, I had no evil to apprehend,-- +and, to deal frankly with you, had determined to accept it.--If I +had--(she stopped a moment)--I believe your good will would have +drawn a story from me, which would have made pity the only +dangerous thing in the journey. + +In saying this, she suffered me to kiss her hand twice, and with a +look of sensibility mixed with concern, she got out of the chaise,- +-and bid adieu. + + +IN THE STREET. CALAIS. + + +I never finished a twelve guinea bargain so expeditiously in my +life: my time seemed heavy, upon the loss of the lady, and knowing +every moment of it would be as two, till I put myself into motion,- +-I ordered post horses directly, and walked towards the hotel. + +Lord! said I, hearing the town clock strike four, and recollecting +that I had been little more than a single hour in Calais, - + +- What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this +little span of life by him who interests his heart in every thing, +and who, having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually +holding out to him as he journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he +can FAIRLY lay his hands on! + +- If this won't turn out something,--another will;--no matter,-- +'tis an assay upon human nature--I get my labour for my pains,-- +'tis enough;--the pleasure of the experiment has kept my senses and +the best part of my blood awake, and laid the gross to sleep. + +I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and cry, 'Tis +all barren;--and so it is: and so is all the world to him who will +not cultivate the fruits it offers. I declare, said I, clapping my +hands cheerily together, that were I in a desert, I would find out +wherewith in it to call forth my affections: --if I could not do +better, I would fasten them upon some sweet myrtle, or seek some +melancholy cypress to connect myself to;--I would court their +shade, and greet them kindly for their protection.--I would cut my +name upon them, and swear they were the loveliest trees throughout +the desert: if their leaves wither'd, I would teach myself to +mourn; and, when they rejoiced, I would rejoice along with them. + +The learned Smelfungus travelled from Boulogne to Paris,--from +Paris to Rome,--and so on;--but he set out with the spleen and +jaundice, and every object he pass'd by was discoloured or +distorted.--He wrote an account of them, but 'twas nothing but the +account of his miserable feelings. + +I met Smelfungus in the grand portico of the Pantheon: --he was +just coming out of it.--'TIS NOTHING BUT A HUGE COCKPIT, said he: - +-I wish you had said nothing worse of the Venus of Medicis, replied +I;--for in passing through Florence, I had heard he had fallen foul +upon the goddess, and used her worse than a common strumpet, +without the least provocation in nature. + +I popp'd upon Smelfungus again at Turin, in his return home; and a +sad tale of sorrowful adventures had he to tell, "wherein he spoke +of moving accidents by flood and field, and of the cannibals that +each other eat: the Anthropophagi:"--he had been flayed alive, and +bedevil'd, and used worse than St. Bartholomew, at every stage he +had come at. - + +- I'll tell it, cried Smelfungus, to the world. You had better +tell it, said I, to your physician. + +Mundungus, with an immense fortune, made the whole tour; going on +from Rome to Naples,--from Naples to Venice,--from Venice to +Vienna,--to Dresden, to Berlin, without one generous connection or +pleasurable anecdote to tell of; but he had travell'd straight on, +looking neither to his right hand nor his left, lest Love or Pity +should seduce him out of his road. + +Peace be to them! if it is to be found; but heaven itself, were it +possible to get there with such tempers, would want objects to give +it; every gentle spirit would come flying upon the wings of Love to +hail their arrival.--Nothing would the souls of Smelfungus and +Mundungus hear of, but fresh anthems of joy, fresh raptures of +love, and fresh congratulations of their common felicity.--I +heartily pity them; they have brought up no faculties for this +work; and, were the happiest mansion in heaven to be allotted to +Smelfungus and Mundungus, they would be so far from being happy, +that the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus would do penance there +to all eternity! + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I had once lost my portmanteau from behind my chaise, and twice got +out in the rain, and one of the times up to the knees in dirt, to +help the postilion to tie it on, without being able to find out +what was wanting.--Nor was it till I got to Montreuil, upon the +landlord's asking me if I wanted not a servant, that it occurred to +me, that that was the very thing. + +A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I.--Because, Monsieur, said +the landlord, there is a clever young fellow, who would be very +proud of the honour to serve an Englishman.--But why an English +one, more than any other?--They are so generous, said the +landlord.--I'll be shot if this is not a livre out of my pocket, +quoth I to myself, this very night.--But they have wherewithal to +be so, Monsieur, added he.--Set down one livre more for that, quoth +I.--It was but last night, said the landlord, qu'un milord Anglois +presentoit un ecu a la fille de chambre.--Tant pis pour +Mademoiselle Janatone, said I. + +Now Janatone, being the landlord's daughter, and the landlord +supposing I was young in French, took the liberty to inform me, I +should not have said tant pis--but, tant mieux. Tant mieux, +toujours, Monsieur, said he, when there is any thing to be got-- +tant pis, when there is nothing. It comes to the same thing, said +I. Pardonnez-moi, said the landlord. + +I cannot take a fitter opportunity to observe, once for all, that +tant pis and tant mieux, being two of the great hinges in French +conversation, a stranger would do well to set himself right in the +use of them, before he gets to Paris. + +A prompt French marquis at our ambassador's table demanded of Mr. +H-, if he was H- the poet? No, said Mr. H-, mildly.--Tant pis, +replied the marquis. + +It is H- the historian, said another,--Tant mieux, said the +marquis. And Mr. H-, who is a man of an excellent heart, return'd +thanks for both. + +When the landlord had set me right in this matter, he called in La +Fleur, which was the name of the young man he had spoke of,--saying +only first, That as for his talents he would presume to say +nothing,--Monsieur was the best judge what would suit him; but for +the fidelity of La Fleur he would stand responsible in all he was +worth. + +The landlord deliver'd this in a manner which instantly set my mind +to the business I was upon;--and La Fleur, who stood waiting +without, in that breathless expectation which every son of nature +of us have felt in our turns, came in. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +I am apt to be taken with all kinds of people at first sight; but +never more so than when a poor devil comes to offer his service to +so poor a devil as myself; and as I know this weakness, I always +suffer my judgment to draw back something on that very account,-- +and this more or less, according to the mood I am in, and the +case;--and I may add, the gender too, of the person I am to govern. + +When La Fleur entered the room, after every discount I could make +for my soul, the genuine look and air of the fellow determined the +matter at once in his favour; so I hired him first,--and then began +to enquire what he could do: But I shall find out his talents, +quoth I, as I want them,--besides, a Frenchman can do every thing. + +Now poor La Fleur could do nothing in the world but beat a drum, +and play a march or two upon the fife. I was determined to make +his talents do; and can't say my weakness was ever so insulted by +my wisdom as in the attempt. + +La Fleur had set out early in life, as gallantly as most Frenchmen +do, with SERVING for a few years; at the end of which, having +satisfied the sentiment, and found, moreover, That the honour of +beating a drum was likely to be its own reward, as it open'd no +further track of glory to him,--he retired a ses terres, and lived +comme il plaisoit a Dieu;--that is to say, upon nothing. + +- And so, quoth Wisdom, you have hired a drummer to attend you in +this tour of yours through France and Italy!--Psha! said I, and do +not one half of our gentry go with a humdrum compagnon du voyage +the same round, and have the piper and the devil and all to pay +besides? When man can extricate himself with an equivoque in such +an unequal match,--he is not ill off.--But you can do something +else, La Fleur? said I.--O qu'oui! he could make spatterdashes, and +play a little upon the fiddle.--Bravo! said Wisdom.--Why, I play a +bass myself, said I;--we shall do very well. You can shave, and +dress a wig a little, La Fleur?--He had all the dispositions in the +world.--It is enough for heaven! said I, interrupting him,--and +ought to be enough for me.--So, supper coming in, and having a +frisky English spaniel on one side of my chair, and a French valet, +with as much hilarity in his countenance as ever Nature painted in +one, on the other,--I was satisfied to my heart's content with my +empire; and if monarchs knew what they would be at, they might be +as satisfied as I was. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +As La Fleur went the whole tour of France and Italy with me, and +will be often upon the stage, I must interest the reader a little +further in his behalf, by saying, that I had never less reason to +repent of the impulses which generally do determine me, than in +regard to this fellow;--he was a faithful, affectionate, simple +soul as ever trudged after the heels of a philosopher; and, +notwithstanding his talents of drum beating and spatterdash-making, +which, though very good in themselves, happened to be of no great +service to me, yet was I hourly recompensed by the festivity of his +temper;--it supplied all defects: --I had a constant resource in +his looks in all difficulties and distresses of my own--I was going +to have added of his too; but La Fleur was out of the reach of +every thing; for, whether 'twas hunger or thirst, or cold or +nakedness, or watchings, or whatever stripes of ill luck La Fleur +met with in our journeyings, there was no index in his physiognomy +to point them out by,--he was eternally the same; so that if I am a +piece of a philosopher, which Satan now and then puts it into my +head I am,--it always mortifies the pride of the conceit, by +reflecting how much I owe to the complexional philosophy of this +poor fellow, for shaming me into one of a better kind. With all +this, La Fleur had a small cast of the coxcomb,--but he seemed at +first sight to be more a coxcomb of nature than of art; and, before +I had been three days in Paris with him,--he seemed to be no +coxcomb at all. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +The next morning, La Fleur entering upon his employment, I +delivered to him the key of my portmanteau, with an inventory of my +half a dozen shirts and silk pair of breeches, and bid him fasten +all upon the chaise,--get the horses put to,--and desire the +landlord to come in with his bill. + +C'est un garcon de bonne fortune, said the landlord, pointing +through the window to half a dozen wenches who had got round about +La Fleur, and were most kindly taking their leave of him, as the +postilion was leading out the horses. La Fleur kissed all their +hands round and round again, and thrice he wiped his eyes, and +thrice he promised he would bring them all pardons from Rome. + +- The young fellow, said the landlord, is beloved by all the town, +and there is scarce a corner in Montreuil where the want of him +will not be felt: he has but one misfortune in the world, +continued he, "he is always in love."--I am heartily glad of it, +said I,--'twill save me the trouble every night of putting my +breeches under my head. In saying this, I was making not so much +La Fleur's eloge as my own, having been in love with one princess +or another almost all my life, and I hope I shall go on so till I +die, being firmly persuaded, that if ever I do a mean action, it +must be in some interval betwixt one passion and another: whilst +this interregnum lasts, I always perceive my heart locked up,--I +can scarce find in it to give Misery a sixpence; and therefore I +always get out of it as fast as I can--and the moment I am +rekindled, I am all generosity and good-will again; and would do +anything in the world, either for or with any one, if they will but +satisfy me there is no sin in it. + +- But in saying this,--sure I am commanding the passion,--not +myself. + + +A FRAGMENT. + + +- The town of Abdera, notwithstanding Democritus lived there, +trying all the powers of irony and laughter to reclaim it, was the +vilest and most profligate town in all Thrace. What for poisons, +conspiracies, and assassinations,--libels, pasquinades, and +tumults, there was no going there by day--'twas worse by night. + +Now, when things were at the worst, it came to pass that the +Andromeda of Euripides being represented at Abdera, the whole +orchestra was delighted with it: but of all the passages which +delighted them, nothing operated more upon their imaginations than +the tender strokes of nature which the poet had wrought up in that +pathetic speech of Perseus, O Cupid, prince of gods and men! &c. +Every man almost spoke pure iambics the next day, and talked of +nothing but Perseus his pathetic address,--"O Cupid! prince of gods +and men!"--in every street of Abdera, in every house, "O Cupid! +Cupid!"--in every mouth, like the natural notes of some sweet +melody which drop from it, whether it will or no,--nothing but +"Cupid! Cupid! prince of gods and men!"--The fire caught--and the +whole city, like the heart of one man, open'd itself to Love. + +No pharmacopolist could sell one grain of hellebore,--not a single +armourer had a heart to forge one instrument of death;--Friendship +and Virtue met together, and kiss'd each other in the street; the +golden age returned, and hung over the town of Abdera--every +Abderite took his eaten pipe, and every Abderitish woman left her +purple web, and chastely sat her down and listened to the song. + +'Twas only in the power, says the Fragment, of the God whose empire +extendeth from heaven to earth, and even to the depths of the sea, +to have done this. + + +MONTREUIL. + + +When all is ready, and every article is disputed and paid for in +the inn, unless you are a little sour'd by the adventure, there is +always a matter to compound at the door, before you can get into +your chaise; and that is with the sons and daughters of poverty, +who surround you. Let no man say, "Let them go to the devil!"-- +'tis a cruel journey to send a few miserables, and they have had +sufferings enow without it: I always think it better to take a few +sous out in my hand; and I would counsel every gentle traveller to +do so likewise: he need not be so exact in setting down his +motives for giving them;--They will be registered elsewhere. + +For my own part, there is no man gives so little as I do; for few, +that I know, have so little to give; but as this was the first +public act of my charity in France, I took the more notice of it. + +A well-a-way! said I,--I have but eight sous in the world, showing +them in my hand, and there are eight poor men and eight poor women +for 'em. + +A poor tatter'd soul, without a shirt on, instantly withdrew his +claim, by retiring two steps out of the circle, and making a +disqualifying bow on his part. Had the whole parterre cried out, +Place aux dames, with one voice, it would not have conveyed the +sentiment of a deference for the sex with half the effect. + +Just Heaven! for what wise reasons hast thou ordered it, that +beggary and urbanity, which are at such variance in other +countries, should find a way to be at unity in this? + +- I insisted upon presenting him with a single sous, merely for his +politesse. + +A poor little dwarfish brisk fellow, who stood over against me in +the circle, putting something first under his arm, which had once +been a hat, took his snuff-box out of his pocket, and generously +offer'd a pinch on both sides of him: it was a gift of +consequence, and modestly declined. --The poor little fellow +pressed it upon them with a nod of welcomeness.--Prenez en--prenez, +said he, looking another way; so they each took a pinch.--Pity thy +box should ever want one! said I to myself; so I put a couple of +sous into it--taking a small pinch out of his box, to enhance their +value, as I did it. He felt the weight of the second obligation +more than of the first,--'twas doing him an honour,--the other was +only doing him a charity;--and he made me a bow down to the ground +for it. + +- Here! said I to an old soldier with one hand, who had been +campaigned and worn out to death in the service--here's a couple of +sous for thee.--Vive le Roi! said the old soldier. + +I had then but three sous left: so I gave one, simply, pour +l'amour de Dieu, which was the footing on which it was begg'd.--The +poor woman had a dislocated hip; so it could not be well upon any +other motive. + +Mon cher et tres-charitable Monsieur.--There's no opposing this, +said I. + +Milord Anglois--the very sound was worth the money;--so I gave MY +LAST SOUS FOR IT. But in the eagerness of giving, I had overlooked +a pauvre honteux, who had had no one to ask a sous for him, and +who, I believe, would have perished, ere he could have ask'd one +for himself: he stood by the chaise a little without the circle, +and wiped a tear from a face which I thought had seen better days.- +-Good God! said I--and I have not one single sous left to give +him.--But you have a thousand! cried all the powers of nature, +stirring within me;--so I gave him--no matter what--I am ashamed to +say HOW MUCH now,--and was ashamed to think how little, then: so, +if the reader can form any conjecture of my disposition, as these +two fixed points are given him, he may judge within a livre or two +what was the precise sum. + +I could afford nothing for the rest, but Dieu vous benisse! + +- Et le bon Dieu vous benisse encore, said the old soldier, the +dwarf, &c. The pauvre honteux could say nothing;--he pull'd out a +little handkerchief, and wiped his face as he turned away--and I +thought he thanked me more than them all. + + +THE BIDET. + + +Having settled all these little matters, I got into my post-chaise +with more ease than ever I got into a post-chaise in my life; and +La Fleur having got one large jack-boot on the far side of a little +bidet, and another on this (for I count nothing of his legs)--he +canter'd away before me as happy and as perpendicular as a prince.- +-But what is happiness! what is grandeur in this painted scene of +life! A dead ass, before we had got a league, put a sudden stop to +La Fleur's career;--his bidet would not pass by it,--a contention +arose betwixt them, and the poor fellow was kick'd out of his jack- +boots the very first kick. + +La Fleur bore his fall like a French Christian, saying neither more +nor less upon it, than Diable! So presently got up, and came to +the charge again astride his bidet, beating him up to it as he +would have beat his drum. + +The bidet flew from one side of the road to the other, then back +again,--then this way, then that way, and in short, every way but +by the dead ass: --La Fleur insisted upon the thing--and the bidet +threw him. + +What's the matter, La Fleur, said I, with this bidet of thine? +Monsieur, said he, c'est un cheval le plus opiniatre du monde.-- +Nay, if he is a conceited beast, he must go his own way, replied I. +So La Fleur got off him, and giving him a good sound lash, the +bidet took me at my word, and away he scampered back to Montreuil.- +-Peste! said La Fleur. + +It is not mal-a-propos to take notice here, that though La Fleur +availed himself but of two different terms of exclamation in this +encounter,--namely, Diable! and Peste! that there are, +nevertheless, three in the French language: like the positive, +comparative, and superlative, one or the other of which serves for +every unexpected throw of the dice in life. + +Le Diable! which is the first, and positive degree, is generally +used upon ordinary emotions of the mind, where small things only +fall out contrary to your expectations; such as--the throwing once +doublets--La Fleur's being kick'd off his horse, and so forth.-- +Cuckoldom, for the same reason, is always--Le Diable! + +But, in cases where the cast has something provoking in it, as in +that of the bidet's running away after, and leaving La Fleur +aground in jack-boots,--'tis the second degree. + +'Tis then Peste! + +And for the third - + +- But here my heart is wrung with pity and fellow feeling, when I +reflect what miseries must have been their lot, and how bitterly so +refined a people must have smarted, to have forced them upon the +use of it. - + +Grant me, O ye powers which touch the tongue with eloquence in +distress!--what ever is my CAST, grant me but decent words to +exclaim in, and I will give my nature way. + +- But as these were not to be had in France, I resolved to take +every evil just as it befell me, without any exclamation at all. + +La Fleur, who had made no such covenant with himself, followed the +bidet with his eyes till it was got out of sight,--and then, you +may imagine, if you please, with what word he closed the whole +affair. + +As there was no hunting down a frightened horse in jack-boots, +there remained no alternative but taking La Fleur either behind the +chaise, or into it. - + +I preferred the latter, and in half an hour we got to the post- +house at Nampont. + + +NAMPONT. THE DEAD ASS. + + +- And this, said he, putting the remains of a crust into his +wallet--and this should have been thy portion, said he, hadst thou +been alive to have shared it with me.--I thought, by the accent, it +had been an apostrophe to his child; but 'twas to his ass, and to +the very ass we had seen dead in the road, which had occasioned La +Fleur's misadventure. The man seemed to lament it much; and it +instantly brought into my mind Sancho's lamentation for his; but he +did it with more true touches of nature. + +The mourner was sitting upon a stone bench at the door, with the +ass's pannel and its bridle on one side, which he took up from time +to time,--then laid them down,--look'd at them, and shook his head. +He then took his crust of bread out of his wallet again, as if to +eat it; held it some time in his hand,--then laid it upon the bit +of his ass's bridle,--looked wistfully at the little arrangement he +had made--and then gave a sigh. + +The simplicity of his grief drew numbers about him, and La Fleur +amongst the rest, whilst the horses were getting ready; as I +continued sitting in the post-chaise, I could see and hear over +their heads. + +- He said he had come last from Spain, where he had been from the +furthest borders of Franconia; and had got so far on his return +home, when his ass died. Every one seemed desirous to know what +business could have taken so old and poor a man so far a journey +from his own home. + +It had pleased heaven, he said, to bless him with three sons, the +finest lads in Germany; but having in one week lost two of the +eldest of them by the small-pox, and the youngest falling ill of +the same distemper, he was afraid of being bereft of them all; and +made a vow, if heaven would not take him from him also, he would go +in gratitude to St. Iago in Spain. + +When the mourner got thus far on his story, he stopp'd to pay +Nature her tribute,--and wept bitterly. + +He said, heaven had accepted the conditions; and that he had set +out from his cottage with this poor creature, who had been a +patient partner of his journey;--that it had eaten the same bread +with him all the way, and was unto him as a friend. + +Every body who stood about, heard the poor fellow with concern.--La +Fleur offered him money.--The mourner said he did not want it;--it +was not the value of the ass--but the loss of him.--The ass, he +said, he was assured, loved him;--and upon this told them a long +story of a mischance upon their passage over the Pyrenean +mountains, which had separated them from each other three days; +during which time the ass had sought him as much as he had sought +the ass, and that they had scarce either eaten or drank till they +met. + +Thou hast one comfort, friend, said I, at least, in the loss of thy +poor beast; I'm sure thou hast been a merciful master to him.-- +Alas! said the mourner, I thought so when he was alive;--but now +that he is dead, I think otherwise.--I fear the weight of myself +and my afflictions together have been too much for him,--they have +shortened the poor creature's days, and I fear I have them to +answer for.--Shame on the world! said I to myself.--Did we but love +each other as this poor soul loved his ass--'twould be something. - + + +NAMPONT. THE POSTILION. + + +The concern which the poor fellow's story threw me into required +some attention; the postilion paid not the least to it, but set off +upon the pave in a full gallop. + +The thirstiest soul in the most sandy desert of Arabia could not +have wished more for a cup of cold water, than mine did for grave +and quiet movements; and I should have had an high opinion of the +postilion had he but stolen off with me in something like a pensive +pace.--On the contrary, as the mourner finished his lamentation, +the fellow gave an unfeeling lash to each of his beasts, and set +off clattering like a thousand devils. + +I called to him as loud as I could, for heaven's sake to go slower: +--and the louder I called, the more unmercifully he galloped.--The +deuce take him and his galloping too--said I,--he'll go on tearing +my nerves to pieces till he has worked me into a foolish passion, +and then he'll go slow that I may enjoy the sweets of it. + +The postilion managed the point to a miracle: by the time he had +got to the foot of a steep hill, about half a league from Nampont,- +-he had put me out of temper with him,--and then with myself, for +being so. + +My case then required a different treatment; and a good rattling +gallop would have been of real service to me. - + +- Then, prithee, get on--get on, my good lad, said I. + +The postilion pointed to the hill.--I then tried to return back to +the story of the poor German and his ass--but I had broke the +clue,--and could no more get into it again, than the postilion +could into a trot. + +- The deuce go, said I, with it all! Here am I sitting as candidly +disposed to make the best of the worst, as ever wight was, and all +runs counter. + +There is one sweet lenitive at least for evils, which Nature holds +out to us: so I took it kindly at her hands, and fell asleep; and +the first word which roused me was Amiens. + +- Bless me! said I, rubbing my eyes,--this is the very town where +my poor lady is to come. + + +AMIENS. + + +The words were scarce out of my mouth when the Count de L-'s post- +chaise, with his sister in it, drove hastily by: she had just time +to make me a bow of recognition,--and of that particular kind of +it, which told me she had not yet done with me. She was as good as +her look; for, before I had quite finished my supper, her brother's +servant came into the room with a billet, in which she said she had +taken the liberty to charge me with a letter, which I was to +present myself to Madame R- the first morning I had nothing to do +at Paris. There was only added, she was sorry, but from what +penchant she had not considered, that she had been prevented +telling me her story,--that she still owed it to me; and if my +route should ever lay through Brussels, and I had not by then +forgot the name of Madame de L-,--that Madame de L- would be glad +to discharge her obligation. + +Then I will meet thee, said I, fair spirit! at Brussels;--'tis only +returning from Italy through Germany to Holland, by the route of +Flanders, home;--'twill scarce be ten posts out of my way; but, +were it ten thousand! with what a moral delight will it crown my +journey, in sharing in the sickening incidents of a tale of misery +told to me by such a sufferer? To see her weep! and, though I +cannot dry up the fountain of her tears, what an exquisite +sensation is there still left, in wiping them away from off the +cheeks of the first and fairest of women, as I'm sitting with my +handkerchief in my hand in silence the whole night beside her? + +There was nothing wrong in the sentiment; and yet I instantly +reproached my heart with it in the bitterest and most reprobate of +expressions. + +It had ever, as I told the reader, been one of the singular +blessings of my life, to be almost every hour of it miserably in +love with some one; and my last flame happening to be blown out by +a whiff of jealousy on the sudden turn of a corner, I had lighted +it up afresh at the pure taper of Eliza but about three months +before,--swearing, as I did it, that it should last me through the +whole journey.--Why should I dissemble the matter? I had sworn to +her eternal fidelity;--she had a right to my whole heart: --to +divide my affections was to lessen them;--to expose them was to +risk them: where there is risk there may be loss: --and what wilt +thou have, Yorick, to answer to a heart so full of trust and +confidence--so good, so gentle, and unreproaching! + +- I will not go to Brussels, replied I, interrupting myself.--But +my imagination went on,--I recalled her looks at that crisis of our +separation, when neither of us had power to say adieu! I look'd at +the picture she had tied in a black riband about my neck,--and +blush'd as I look'd at it.--I would have given the world to have +kiss'd it,--but was ashamed.--And shall this tender flower, said I, +pressing it between my hands,--shall it be smitten to its very +root,--and smitten, Yorick! by thee, who hast promised to shelter +it in thy breast? + +Eternal Fountain of Happiness! said I, kneeling down upon the +ground,--be thou my witness--and every pure spirit which tastes it, +be my witness also, That I would not travel to Brussels, unless +Eliza went along with me, did the road lead me towards heaven! + +In transports of this kind, the heart, in spite of the +understanding, will always say too much. + + +THE LETTER. AMIENS. + + +Fortune had not smiled upon La Fleur; for he had been unsuccessful +in his feats of chivalry,--and not one thing had offered to +signalise his zeal for my service from the time that he had entered +into it, which was almost four-and-twenty hours. The poor soul +burn'd with impatience; and the Count de L-'s servant coming with +the letter, being the first practicable occasion which offer'd, La +Fleur had laid hold of it; and, in order to do honour to his +master, had taken him into a back parlour in the auberge, and +treated him with a cup or two of the best wine in Picardy; and the +Count de L-'s servant, in return, and not to be behindhand in +politeness with La Fleur, had taken him back with him to the +Count's hotel. La Fleur's PREVENANCY (for there was a passport in +his very looks) soon set every servant in the kitchen at ease with +him; and as a Frenchman, whatever be his talents, has no sort of +prudery in showing them, La Fleur, in less than five minutes, had +pulled out his fife, and leading off the dance himself with the +first note, set the fille de chambre, the maitre d'hotel, the cook, +the scullion, and all the house-hold, dogs and cats, besides an old +monkey, a dancing: I suppose there never was a merrier kitchen +since the flood. + +Madame de L-, in passing from her brother's apartments to her own, +hearing so much jollity below stairs, rung up her fille de chambre +to ask about it; and, hearing it was the English gentleman's +servant, who had set the whole house merry with his pipe, she +ordered him up. + +As the poor fellow could not present himself empty, he had loaded +himself in going up stairs with a thousand compliments to Madame de +L-, on the part of his master,--added a long apocrypha of inquiries +after Madame de L-'s health,--told her, that Monsieur his master +was au desespoire for her re-establishment from the fatigues of her +journey,--and, to close all, that Monsieur had received the letter +which Madame had done him the honour--And he has done me the +honour, said Madame de L-, interrupting La Fleur, to send a billet +in return. + +Madame de L- had said this with such a tone of reliance upon the +fact, that La Fleur had not power to disappoint her expectations;-- +he trembled for my honour,--and possibly might not altogether be +unconcerned for his own, as a man capable of being attached to a +master who could be wanting en egards vis a vis d'une femme! so +that when Madame de L- asked La Fleur if he had brought a letter,-- +O qu'oui, said La Fleur: so laying down his hat upon the ground, +and taking hold of the flap of his right side pocket with his left +hand, he began to search for the letter with his right;--then +contrariwise.--Diable! then sought every pocket--pocket by pocket, +round, not forgetting his fob: --Peste!--then La Fleur emptied them +upon the floor,--pulled out a dirty cravat,--a handkerchief,--a +comb,--a whip lash,--a nightcap,--then gave a peep into his hat,-- +Quelle etourderie! He had left the letter upon the table in the +auberge;--he would run for it, and be back with it in three +minutes. + +I had just finished my supper when La Fleur came in to give me an +account of his adventure: he told the whole story simply as it +was: and only added that if Monsieur had forgot (par hazard) to +answer Madame's letter, the arrangement gave him an opportunity to +recover the faux pas;--and if not, that things were only as they +were. + +Now I was not altogether sure of my etiquette, whether I ought to +have wrote or no;--but if I had,--a devil himself could not have +been angry: 'twas but the officious zeal of a well meaning +creature for my honour; and, however he might have mistook the +road,--or embarrassed me in so doing,--his heart was in no fault,-- +I was under no necessity to write;--and, what weighed more than +all,--he did not look as if he had done amiss. + +- 'Tis all very well, La Fleur, said I.--'Twas sufficient. La +Fleur flew out of the room like lightning, and returned with pen, +ink, and paper, in his hand; and, coming up to the table, laid them +close before me, with such a delight in his countenance, that I +could not help taking up the pen. + +I began and began again; and, though I had nothing to say, and that +nothing might have been expressed in half a dozen lines, I made +half a dozen different beginnings, and could no way please myself. + +In short, I was in no mood to write. + +La Fleur stepp'd out and brought a little water in a glass to +dilute my ink,--then fetch'd sand and seal-wax.--It was all one; I +wrote, and blotted, and tore off, and burnt, and wrote again.--Le +diable l'emporte! said I, half to myself,--I cannot write this +self-same letter, throwing the pen down despairingly as I said it. + +As soon as I had cast down my pen, La Fleur advanced with the most +respectful carriage up to the table, and making a thousand +apologies for the liberty he was going to take, told me he had a +letter in his pocket wrote by a drummer in his regiment to a +corporal's wife, which he durst say would suit the occasion. + +I had a mind to let the poor fellow have his humour.--Then prithee, +said I, let me see it. + +La Fleur instantly pulled out a little dirty pocket book cramm'd +full of small letters and billet-doux in a sad condition, and +laying it upon the table, and then untying the string which held +them all together, run them over, one by one, till he came to the +letter in question,--La voila! said he, clapping his hands: so, +unfolding it first, he laid it open before me, and retired three +steps from the table whilst I read it. + + +THE LETTER. + + +Madame, + +Je suis penetre de la douleur la plus vive, et reduit en meme temps +au desespoir par ce retour imprevu du Caporal qui rend notre +entrevue de ce soir la chose du monde la plus impossible. + +Mais vive la joie! et toute la mienne sera de penser a vous. + +L'amour n'est rien sans sentiment. + +Et le sentiment est encore moins sans amour. + +On dit qu'on ne doit jamais se desesperer. + +On dit aussi que Monsieur le Caporal monte la garde Mercredi: +alors ce cera mon tour. + +Chacun a son tour. + +En attendant--Vive l'amour! et vive la bagatelle! + +Je suis, Madame, + +Avec tous les sentimens les plus respectueux et les plus tendres, + +tout a vous, + +JAQUES ROQUE. + + +It was but changing the Corporal into the Count,--and saying +nothing about mounting guard on Wednesday,--and the letter was +neither right nor wrong: --so, to gratify the poor fellow, who +stood trembling for my honour, his own, and the honour of his +letter,--I took the cream gently off it, and whipping it up in my +own way, I seal'd it up and sent him with it to Madame de L-;--and +the next morning we pursued our journey to Paris. + + +PARIS. + + +When a man can contest the point by dint of equipage, and carry all +on floundering before him with half a dozen of lackies and a couple +of cooks--'tis very well in such a place as Paris,--he may drive in +at which end of a street he will. + +A poor prince who is weak in cavalry, and whose whole infantry does +not exceed a single man, had best quit the field, and signalize +himself in the cabinet, if he can get up into it;--I say UP INTO +IT--for there is no descending perpendicular amongst 'em with a "Me +voici! mes enfans"--here I am--whatever many may think. + +I own my first sensations, as soon as I was left solitary and alone +in my own chamber in the hotel, were far from being so flattering +as I had prefigured them. I walked up gravely to the window in my +dusty black coat, and looking through the glass saw all the world +in yellow, blue, and green, running at the ring of pleasure.--The +old with broken lances, and in helmets which had lost their +vizards;--the young in armour bright which shone like gold, +beplumed with each gay feather of the east,--all,--all, tilting at +it like fascinated knights in tournaments of yore for fame and +love. - + +Alas, poor Yorick! cried I, what art thou doing here? On the very +first onset of all this glittering clatter thou art reduced to an +atom;--seek,--seek some winding alley, with a tourniquet at the end +of it, where chariot never rolled or flambeau shot its rays;--there +thou mayest solace thy soul in converse sweet with some kind +grisette of a barber's wife, and get into such coteries! - + +- May I perish! if I do, said I, pulling out the letter which I had +to present to Madame de R- --I'll wait upon this lady, the very +first thing I do. So I called La Fleur to go seek me a barber +directly,--and come back and brush my coat. + + +THE WIG. PARIS. + + +When the barber came, he absolutely refused to have any thing to do +with my wig: 'twas either above or below his art: I had nothing +to do but to take one ready made of his own recommendation. + +- But I fear, friend! said I, this buckle won't stand.--You may +emerge it, replied he, into the ocean, and it will stand. - + +What a great scale is every thing upon in this city thought I.--The +utmost stretch of an English periwig-maker's ideas could have gone +no further than to have "dipped it into a pail of water."--What +difference! 'tis like Time to Eternity! + +I confess I do hate all cold conceptions, as I do the puny ideas +which engender them; and am generally so struck with the great +works of nature, that for my own part, if I could help it, I never +would make a comparison less than a mountain at least. All that +can be said against the French sublime, in this instance of it, is +this: --That the grandeur is MORE in the WORD, and LESS in the +THING. No doubt, the ocean fills the mind with vast ideas; but +Paris being so far inland, it was not likely I should run post a +hundred miles out of it, to try the experiment;--the Parisian +barber meant nothing. - + +The pail of water standing beside the great deep, makes, certainly, +but a sorry figure in speech;--but, 'twill be said,--it has one +advantage--'tis in the next room, and the truth of the buckle may +be tried in it, without more ado, in a single moment. + +In honest truth, and upon a more candid revision of the matter, THE +FRENCH EXPRESSION PROFESSES MORE THAN IT PERFORMS. + +I think I can see the precise and distinguishing marks of national +characters more in these nonsensical minutiae than in the most +important matters of state; where great men of all nations talk and +stalk so much alike, that I would not give ninepence to choose +amongst them. + +I was so long in getting from under my barber's hands, that it was +too late to think of going with my letter to Madame R- that night: +but when a man is once dressed at all points for going out, his +reflections turn to little account; so taking down the name of the +Hotel de Modene, where I lodged, I walked forth without any +determination where to go;--I shall consider of that, said I, as I +walk along. + + +THE PULSE. PARIS. + + +Hail, ye small sweet courtesies of life, for smooth do ye make the +road of it! like grace and beauty, which beget inclinations to love +at first sight: 'tis ye who open this door and let the stranger +in. + +- Pray, Madame, said I, have the goodness to tell me which way I +must turn to go to the Opera Comique?--Most willingly, Monsieur, +said she, laying aside her work. - + +I had given a cast with my eye into half a dozen shops, as I came +along, in search of a face not likely to be disordered by such an +interruption: till at last, this, hitting my fancy, I had walked +in. + +She was working a pair of ruffles, as she sat in a low chair, on +the far side of the shop, facing the door. + +- Tres volontiers, most willingly, said she, laying her work down +upon a chair next her, and rising up from the low chair she was +sitting in, with so cheerful a movement, and so cheerful a look, +that had I been laying out fifty louis d'ors with her, I should +have said--"This woman is grateful." + +You must turn, Monsieur, said she, going with me to the door of the +shop, and pointing the way down the street I was to take,--you must +turn first to your left hand,--mais prenez garde--there are two +turns; and be so good as to take the second--then go down a little +way and you'll see a church: and, when you are past it, give +yourself the trouble to turn directly to the right, and that will +lead you to the foot of the Pont Neuf, which you must cross--and +there any one will do himself the pleasure to show you. - + +She repeated her instructions three times over to me, with the same +goodnatur'd patience the third time as the first;--and if TONES AND +MANNERS have a meaning, which certainly they have, unless to hearts +which shut them out,--she seemed really interested that I should +not lose myself. + +I will not suppose it was the woman's beauty, notwithstanding she +was the handsomest grisette, I think, I ever saw, which had much to +do with the sense I had of her courtesy; only I remember, when I +told her how much I was obliged to her, that I looked very full in +her eyes,--and that I repeated my thanks as often as she had done +her instructions. + +I had not got ten paces from the door, before I found I had forgot +every tittle of what she had said;--so looking back, and seeing her +still standing in the door of the shop, as if to look whether I +went right or not,--I returned back to ask her, whether the first +turn was to my right or left,--for that I had absolutely forgot.-- +Is it possible! said she, half laughing. 'Tis very possible, +replied I, when a man is thinking more of a woman than of her good +advice. + +As this was the real truth--she took it, as every woman takes a +matter of right, with a slight curtsey. + +- Attendez! said she, laying her hand upon my arm to detain me, +whilst she called a lad out of the back shop to get ready a parcel +of gloves. I am just going to send him, said she, with a packet +into that quarter, and if you will have the complaisance to step +in, it will be ready in a moment, and he shall attend you to the +place.--So I walk'd in with her to the far side of the shop: and +taking up the ruffle in my hand which she laid upon the chair, as +if I had a mind to sit, she sat down herself in her low chair, and +I instantly sat myself down beside her. + +- He will be ready, Monsieur, said she, in a moment.--And in that +moment, replied I, most willingly would I say something very civil +to you for all these courtesies. Any one may do a casual act of +good nature, but a continuation of them shows it is a part of the +temperature; and certainly, added I, if it is the same blood which +comes from the heart which descends to the extremes (touching her +wrist) I am sure you must have one of the best pulses of any woman +in the world.--Feel it, said she, holding out her arm. So laying +down my hat, I took hold of her fingers in one hand, and applied +the two forefingers of my other to the artery. - + +- Would to heaven! my dear Eugenius, thou hadst passed by, and +beheld me sitting in my black coat, and in my lack-a-day-sical +manner, counting the throbs of it, one by one, with as much true +devotion as if I had been watching the critical ebb or flow of her +fever.--How wouldst thou have laugh'd and moralized upon my new +profession!--and thou shouldst have laugh'd and moralized on.-- +Trust me, my dear Eugenius, I should have said, "There are worse +occupations in this world THAN FEELING A WOMAN'S PULSE."--But a +grisette's! thou wouldst have said,--and in an open shop! Yorick - + +- So much the better: for when my views are direct, Eugenius, I +care not if all the world saw me feel it. + + +THE HUSBAND. PARIS. + + +I had counted twenty pulsations, and was going on fast towards the +fortieth, when her husband, coming unexpected from a back parlour +into the shop, put me a little out of my reckoning.--'Twas nobody +but her husband, she said;--so I began a fresh score.--Monsieur is +so good, quoth she, as he pass'd by us, as to give himself the +trouble of feeling my pulse.--The husband took off his hat, and +making me a bow, said, I did him too much honour--and having said +that, he put on his hat and walk'd out. + +Good God! said I to myself, as he went out,--and can this man be +the husband of this woman! + +Let it not torment the few who know what must have been the grounds +of this exclamation, if I explain it to those who do not. + +In London a shopkeeper and a shopkeeper's wife seem to be one bone +and one flesh: in the several endowments of mind and body, +sometimes the one, sometimes the other has it, so as, in general, +to be upon a par, and totally with each other as nearly as man and +wife need to do. + +In Paris, there are scarce two orders of beings more different: +for the legislative and executive powers of the shop not resting in +the husband, he seldom comes there: --in some dark and dismal room +behind, he sits commerce-less, in his thrum nightcap, the same +rough son of Nature that Nature left him. + +The genius of a people, where nothing but the monarchy is salique, +having ceded this department, with sundry others, totally to the +women,--by a continual higgling with customers of all ranks and +sizes from morning to night, like so many rough pebbles shook long +together in a bag, by amicable collisions they have worn down their +asperities and sharp angles, and not only become round and smooth, +but will receive, some of them, a polish like a brilliant: -- +Monsieur le Mari is little better than the stone under your foot. + +- Surely,--surely, man! it is not good for thee to sit alone: -- +thou wast made for social intercourse and gentle greetings; and +this improvement of our natures from it I appeal to as my evidence. + +- And how does it beat, Monsieur? said she.--With all the +benignity, said I, looking quietly in her eyes, that I expected.-- +She was going to say something civil in return--but the lad came +into the shop with the gloves.--A propos, said I, I want a couple +of pairs myself. + + +THE GLOVES. PARIS. + + +The beautiful grisette rose up when I said this, and going behind +the counter, reach'd down a parcel and untied it: I advanced to +the side over against her: they were all too large. The beautiful +grisette measured them one by one across my hand.--It would not +alter their dimensions.--She begg'd I would try a single pair, +which seemed to be the least.--She held it open;--my hand slipped +into it at once.--It will not do, said I, shaking my head a +little.--No, said she, doing the same thing. + +There are certain combined looks of simple subtlety,--where whim, +and sense, and seriousness, and nonsense, are so blended, that all +the languages of Babel set loose together, could not express them;- +-they are communicated and caught so instantaneously, that you can +scarce say which party is the infector. I leave it to your men of +words to swell pages about it--it is enough in the present to say +again, the gloves would not do; so, folding our hands within our +arms, we both lolled upon the counter--it was narrow, and there was +just room for the parcel to lay between us. + +The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then +sideways to the window, then at the gloves,--and then at me. I was +not disposed to break silence: --I followed her example: so, I +looked at the gloves, then to the window, then at the gloves, and +then at her,--and so on alternately. + +I found I lost considerably in every attack: --she had a quick +black eye, and shot through two such long and silken eyelashes with +such penetration, that she look'd into my very heart and reins.--It +may seem strange, but I could actually feel she did. - + +It is no matter, said I, taking up a couple of the pairs next me, +and putting them into my pocket. + +I was sensible the beautiful grisette had not asked above a single +livre above the price.--I wish'd she had asked a livre more, and +was puzzling my brains how to bring the matter about.--Do you +think, my dear Sir, said she, mistaking my embarrassment, that I +could ask a sous too much of a stranger--and of a stranger whose +politeness, more than his want of gloves, has done me the honour to +lay himself at my mercy?--M'en croyez capable?--Faith! not I, said +I; and if you were, you are welcome. So counting the money into +her hand, and with a lower bow than one generally makes to a +shopkeeper's wife, I went out, and her lad with his parcel followed +me. + + +THE TRANSLATION. PARIS. + + +There was nobody in the box I was let into but a kindly old French +officer. I love the character, not only because I honour the man +whose manners are softened by a profession which makes bad men +worse; but that I once knew one,--for he is no more,--and why +should I not rescue one page from violation by writing his name in +it, and telling the world it was Captain Tobias Shandy, the dearest +of my flock and friends, whose philanthropy I never think of at +this long distance from his death--but my eyes gush out with tears. +For his sake I have a predilection for the whole corps of veterans; +and so I strode over the two back rows of benches and placed myself +beside him. + +The old officer was reading attentively a small pamphlet, it might +be the book of the opera, with a large pair of spectacles. As soon +as I sat down, he took his spectacles off, and putting them into a +shagreen case, return'd them and the book into his pocket together. +I half rose up, and made him a bow. + +Translate this into any civilized language in the world--the sense +is this: + +"Here's a poor stranger come into the box--he seems as if he knew +nobody; and is never likely, was he to be seven years in Paris, if +every man he comes near keeps his spectacles upon his nose: --'tis +shutting the door of conversation absolutely in his face--and using +him worse than a German." + +The French officer might as well have said it all aloud: and if he +had, I should in course have put the bow I made him into French +too, and told him, "I was sensible of his attention, and return'd +him a thousand thanks for it." + +There is not a secret so aiding to the progress of sociality, as to +get master of this SHORT HAND, and to be quick in rendering the +several turns of looks and limbs with all their inflections and +delineations, into plain words. For my own part, by long habitude, +I do it so mechanically, that, when I walk the streets of London, I +go translating all the way; and have more than once stood behind in +the circle, where not three words have been said, and have brought +off twenty different dialogues with me, which I could have fairly +wrote down and sworn to. + +I was going one evening to Martini's concert at Milan, and, was +just entering the door of the hall, when the Marquisina di F- was +coming out in a sort of a hurry: --she was almost upon me before I +saw her; so I gave a spring to once side to let her pass.--She had +done the same, and on the same side too; so we ran our heads +together: she instantly got to the other side to get out: I was +just as unfortunate as she had been, for I had sprung to that side, +and opposed her passage again.--We both flew together to the other +side, and then back,--and so on: --it was ridiculous: we both +blush'd intolerably: so I did at last the thing I should have done +at first;--I stood stock-still, and the Marquisina had no more +difficulty. I had no power to go into the room, till I had made +her so much reparation as to wait and follow her with my eye to the +end of the passage. She look'd back twice, and walk'd along it +rather sideways, as if she would make room for any one coming up +stairs to pass her.--No, said I--that's a vile translation: the +Marquisina has a right to the best apology I can make her, and that +opening is left for me to do it in;--so I ran and begg'd pardon for +the embarrassment I had given her, saying it was my intention to +have made her way. She answered, she was guided by the same +intention towards me;--so we reciprocally thank'd each other. She +was at the top of the stairs; and seeing no cicisbeo near her, I +begg'd to hand her to her coach;--so we went down the stairs, +stopping at every third step to talk of the concert and the +adventure.--Upon my word, Madame, said I, when I had handed her in, +I made six different efforts to let you go out.--And I made six +efforts, replied she, to let you enter.--I wish to heaven you would +make a seventh, said I.--With all my heart, said she, making room.- +-Life is too short to be long about the forms of it,--so I +instantly stepp'd in, and she carried me home with her.--And what +became of the concert, St. Cecilia, who I suppose was at it, knows +more than I. + +I will only add, that the connexion which arose out of the +translation gave me more pleasure than any one I had the honour to +make in Italy. + + +THE DWARF. PARIS. + + +I had never heard the remark made by any one in my life, except by +one; and who that was will probably come out in this chapter; so +that being pretty much unprepossessed, there must have been grounds +for what struck me the moment I cast my eyes over the parterre,-- +and that was, the unaccountable sport of Nature in forming such +numbers of dwarfs.--No doubt she sports at certain times in almost +every corner of the world; but in Paris there is no end to her +amusements.--The goddess seems almost as merry as she is wise. + +As I carried my idea out of the Opera Comique with me, I measured +every body I saw walking in the streets by it.--Melancholy +application! especially where the size was extremely little,--the +face extremely dark,--the eyes quick,--the nose long,--the teeth +white,--the jaw prominent,--to see so many miserables, by force of +accidents driven out of their own proper class into the very verge +of another, which it gives me pain to write down: --every third man +a pigmy!--some by rickety heads and hump backs;--others by bandy +legs;--a third set arrested by the hand of Nature in the sixth and +seventh years of their growth;--a fourth, in their perfect and +natural state like dwarf apple trees; from the first rudiments and +stamina of their existence, never meant to grow higher. + +A Medical Traveller might say, 'tis owing to undue bandages;--a +Splenetic one, to want of air;--and an Inquisitive Traveller, to +fortify the system, may measure the height of their houses,--the +narrowness of their streets, and in how few feet square in the +sixth and seventh stories such numbers of the bourgeoisie eat and +sleep together; but I remember Mr. Shandy the elder, who accounted +for nothing like any body else, in speaking one evening of these +matters, averred that children, like other animals, might be +increased almost to any size, provided they came right into the +world; but the misery was, the citizens of were Paris so coop'd up, +that they had not actually room enough to get them.--I do not call +it getting anything, said he;--'tis getting nothing.--Nay, +continued he, rising in his argument, 'tis getting worse than +nothing, when all you have got after twenty or five and twenty +years of the tenderest care and most nutritious aliment bestowed +upon it, shall not at last be as high as my leg. Now, Mr. Shandy +being very short, there could be nothing more said of it. + +As this is not a work of reasoning, I leave the solution as I found +it, and content myself with the truth only of the remark, which is +verified in every lane and by-lane of Paris. I was walking down +that which leads from the Carousal to the Palais Royal, and +observing a little boy in some distress at the side of the gutter +which ran down the middle of it, I took hold of his hand and help'd +him over. Upon turning up his face to look at him after, I +perceived he was about forty.--Never mind, said I, some good body +will do as much for me when I am ninety. + +I feel some little principles within me which incline me to be +merciful towards this poor blighted part of my species, who have +neither size nor strength to get on in the world.--I cannot bear to +see one of them trod upon; and had scarce got seated beside my old +French officer, ere the disgust was exercised, by seeing the very +thing happen under the box we sat in. + +At the end of the orchestra, and betwixt that and the first side +box, there is a small esplanade left, where, when the house is +full, numbers of all ranks take sanctuary. Though you stand, as in +the parterre, you pay the same price as in the orchestra. A poor +defenceless being of this order had got thrust somehow or other +into this luckless place;--the night was hot, and he was surrounded +by beings two feet and a half higher than himself. The dwarf +suffered inexpressibly on all sides; but the thing which incommoded +him most, was a tall corpulent German, near seven feet high, who +stood directly betwixt him and all possibility of his seeing either +the stage or the actors. The poor dwarf did all he could to get a +peep at what was going forwards, by seeking for some little opening +betwixt the German's arm and his body, trying first on one side, +then the other; but the German stood square in the most +unaccommodating posture that can be imagined: --the dwarf might as +well have been placed at the bottom of the deepest draw-well in +Paris; so he civilly reached up his hand to the German's sleeve, +and told him his distress.--The German turn'd his head back, looked +down upon him as Goliah did upon David,--and unfeelingly resumed +his posture. + +I was just then taking a pinch of snuff out of my monk's little +horn box.--And how would thy meek and courteous spirit, my dear +monk! so temper'd to BEAR AND FORBEAR!--how sweetly would it have +lent an ear to this poor soul's complaint! + +The old French officer, seeing me lift up my eyes with an emotion, +as I made the apostrophe, took the liberty to ask me what was the +matter?--I told him the story in three words; and added, how +inhuman it was. + +By this time the dwarf was driven to extremes, and in his first +transports, which are generally unreasonable, had told the German +he would cut off his long queue with his knife.--The German look'd +back coolly, and told him he was welcome, if he could reach it. + +An injury sharpen'd by an insult, be it to whom it will, makes +every man of sentiment a party: I could have leap'd out of the box +to have redressed it.--The old French officer did it with much less +confusion; for leaning a little over, and nodding to a sentinel, +and pointing at the same time with his finger at the distress,--the +sentinel made his way to it.--There was no occasion to tell the +grievance,--the thing told himself; so thrusting back the German +instantly with his musket,--he took the poor dwarf by the hand, and +placed him before him.--This is noble! said I, clapping my hands +together.--And yet you would not permit this, said the old officer, +in England. + +- In England, dear Sir, said I, WE SIT ALL AT OUR EASE. + +The old French officer would have set me at unity with myself, in +case I had been at variance,--by saying it was a bon mot;--and, as +a bon mot is always worth something at Paris, he offered me a pinch +of snuff. + + +THE ROSE. PARIS. + + +It was now my turn to ask the old French officer "What was the +matter?" for a cry of "Haussez les mains, Monsieur l'Abbe!" re- +echoed from a dozen different parts of the parterre, was as +unintelligible to me, as my apostrophe to the monk had been to him. + +He told me it was some poor Abbe in one of the upper loges, who, he +supposed, had got planted perdu behind a couple of grisettes in +order to see the opera, and that the parterre espying him, were +insisting upon his holding up both his hands during the +representation.--And can it be supposed, said I, that an +ecclesiastic would pick the grisettes' pockets? The old French +officer smiled, and whispering in my ear, opened a door of +knowledge which I had no idea of. + +Good God! said I, turning pale with astonishment--is it possible, +that a people so smit with sentiment should at the same time be so +unclean, and so unlike themselves,--Quelle grossierte! added I. + +The French officer told me, it was an illiberal sarcasm at the +church, which had begun in the theatre about the time the Tartuffe +was given in it by Moliere: but like other remains of Gothic +manners, was declining.--Every nation, continued he, have their +refinements and grossiertes, in which they take the lead, and lose +it of one another by turns: --that he had been in most countries, +but never in one where he found not some delicacies, which others +seemed to want. Le POUR et le CONTRE se trouvent en chaque nation; +there is a balance, said he, of good and bad everywhere; and +nothing but the knowing it is so, can emancipate one half of the +world from the prepossession which it holds against the other: -- +that the advantage of travel, as it regarded the scavoir vivre, was +by seeing a great deal both of men and manners; it taught us mutual +toleration; and mutual toleration, concluded he, making me a bow, +taught us mutual love. + +The old French officer delivered this with an air of such candour +and good sense, as coincided with my first favourable impressions +of his character: --I thought I loved the man; but I fear I mistook +the object;--'twas my own way of thinking--the difference was, I +could not have expressed it half so well. + +It is alike troublesome to both the rider and his beast,--if the +latter goes pricking up his ears, and starting all the way at every +object which he never saw before.--I have as little torment of this +kind as any creature alive; and yet I honestly confess, that many a +thing gave me pain, and that I blush'd at many a word the first +month,--which I found inconsequent and perfectly innocent the +second. + +Madame do Rambouliet, after an acquaintance of about six weeks with +her, had done me the honour to take me in her coach about two +leagues out of town.--Of all women, Madame de Rambouliet is the +most correct; and I never wish to see one of more virtues and +purity of heart.--In our return back, Madame de Rambouliet desired +me to pull the cord.--I asked her if she wanted anything--Rien que +pour pisser, said Madame de Rambouliet. + +Grieve not, gentle traveller, to let Madame de Rambouliet p-ss on.- +-And, ye fair mystic nymphs! go each one PLUCK YOUR ROSE, and +scatter them in your path,--for Madame de Rambouliet did no more.-- +I handed Madame de Rambouliet out of the coach; and had I been the +priest of the chaste Castalia, I could not have served at her +fountain with a more respectful decorum. + + +THE FILLE DE CHAMBRE. PARIS. + + +What the old French officer had delivered upon travelling, bringing +Polonius's advice to his son upon the same subject into my head,-- +and that bringing in Hamlet, and Hamlet the rest of Shakespeare's +works, I stopp'd at the Quai de Conti in my return home, to +purchase the whole set. + +The bookseller said he had not a set in the world. Comment! said +I, taking one up out of a set which lay upon the counter betwixt +us.--He said they were sent him only to be got bound, and were to +be sent back to Versailles in the morning to the Count de B-. + +- And does the Count de B-, said I, read Shakespeare? C'est un +esprit fort, replied the bookseller.--He loves English books! and +what is more to his honour, Monsieur, he loves the English too. +You speak this so civilly, said I, that it is enough to oblige an +Englishman to lay out a louis d'or or two at your shop.--The +bookseller made a bow, and was going to say something, when a young +decent girl about twenty, who by her air and dress seemed to be +fille de chambre to some devout woman of fashion, come into the +shop and asked for Les Egarements du Coeur et de l'Esprit: the +bookseller gave her the book directly; she pulled out a little +green satin purse run round with a riband of the same colour, and +putting her finger and thumb into it, she took out the money and +paid for it. As I had nothing more to stay me in the shop, we both +walk'd out at the door together. + +- And what have you to do, my dear, said I, with The Wanderings of +the Heart, who scarce know yet you have one? nor, till love has +first told you it, or some faithless shepherd has made it ache, +canst thou ever be sure it is so.--Le Dieu m'en garde! said the +girl.--With reason, said I, for if it is a good one, 'tis pity it +should be stolen; 'tis a little treasure to thee, and gives a +better air to your face, than if it was dress'd out with pearls. + +The young girl listened with a submissive attention, holding her +satin purse by its riband in her hand all the time.--'Tis a very +small one, said I, taking hold of the bottom of it--she held it +towards me--and there is very little in it, my dear, said I; but be +but as good as thou art handsome, and heaven will fill it. I had a +parcel of crowns in my hand to pay for Shakespeare; and, as she had +let go the purse entirely, I put a single one in; and, tying up the +riband in a bow-knot, returned it to her. + +The young girl made me more a humble courtesy than a low one: -- +'twas one of those quiet, thankful sinkings, where the spirit bows +itself down,--the body does no more than tell it. I never gave a +girl a crown in my life which gave me half the pleasure. + +My advice, my dear, would not have been worth a pin to you, said I, +if I had not given this along with it: but now, when you see the +crown, you'll remember it;--so don't, my dear, lay it out in +ribands. + +Upon my word, Sir, said the girl, earnestly, I am incapable;--in +saying which, as is usual in little bargains of honour, she gave me +her hand: --En verite, Monsieur, je mettrai cet argent apart, said +she. + +When a virtuous convention is made betwixt man and woman, it +sanctifies their most private walks: so, notwithstanding it was +dusky, yet as both our roads lay the same way, we made no scruple +of walking along the Quai de Conti together. + +She made me a second courtesy in setting off, and before we got +twenty yards from the door, as if she had not done enough before, +she made a sort of a little stop to tell me again--she thank'd me. + +It was a small tribute, I told her, which I could not avoid paying +to virtue, and would not be mistaken in the person I had been +rendering it to for the world;--but I see innocence, my dear, in +your face,--and foul befall the man who ever lays a snare in its +way! + +The girl seem'd affected some way or other with what I said;--she +gave a low sigh: --I found I was not empowered to enquire at all +after it,--so said nothing more till I got to the corner of the Rue +de Nevers, where, we were to part. + +- But is this the way, my dear, said I, to the Hotel de Modene? +She told me it was;--or that I might go by the Rue de Gueneguault, +which was the next turn.--Then I'll go, my dear, by the Rue de +Gueneguault, said I, for two reasons; first, I shall please myself, +and next, I shall give you the protection of my company as far on +your way as I can. The girl was sensible I was civil--and said, +she wished the Hotel de Modene was in the Rue de St. Pierre.--You +live there? said I.--She told me she was fille de chambre to Madame +R-.--Good God! said I, 'tis the very lady for whom I have brought a +letter from Amiens.--The girl told me that Madame R-, she believed, +expected a stranger with a letter, and was impatient to see him: -- +so I desired the girl to present my compliments to Madame R-, and +say, I would certainly wait upon her in the morning. + +We stood still at the corner of the Rue de Nevers whilst this +pass'd.--We then stopped a moment whilst she disposed of her +Egarements du Coeur &c. more commodiously than carrying them in her +hand--they were two volumes: so I held the second for her whilst +she put the first into her pocket; and then she held her pocket, +and I put in the other after it. + +'Tis sweet to feel by what fine spun threads our affections are +drawn together. + +We set off afresh, and as she took her third step, the girl put her +hand within my arm.--I was just bidding her,--but she did it of +herself, with that undeliberating simplicity, which show'd it was +out of her head that she had never seen me before. For my own +part, I felt the conviction of consanguinity so strongly, that I +could not help turning half round to look in her face, and see if I +could trace out any thing in it of a family likeness.--Tut! said I, +are we not all relations? + +When we arrived at the turning up of the Rue de Gueneguault, I +stopp'd to bid her adieu for good and all: the girl would thank me +again for my company and kindness.--She bid me adieu twice.--I +repeated it as often; and so cordial was the parting between us, +that had it happened any where else, I'm not sure but I should have +signed it with a kiss of charity, as warm and holy as an apostle. + +But in Paris, as none kiss each other but the men,--I did, what +amounted to the same thing - + +- I bid God bless her. + + +THE PASSPORT. PARIS. + + +When I got home to my hotel, La Fleur told me I had been enquired +after by the Lieutenant de Police.--The deuce take it! said I,--I +know the reason. It is time the reader should know it, for in the +order of things in which it happened, it was omitted: not that it +was out of my head; but that had I told it then it might have been +forgotten now;--and now is the time I want it. + +I had left London with so much precipitation, that it never enter'd +my mind that we were at war with France; and had reached Dover, and +looked through my glass at the hills beyond Boulogne, before the +idea presented itself; and with this in its train, that there was +no getting there without a passport. Go but to the end of a +street, I have a mortal aversion for returning back no wiser than I +set out; and as this was one of the greatest efforts I had ever +made for knowledge, I could less bear the thoughts of it: so +hearing the Count de--had hired the packet, I begg'd he would take +me in his suite. The Count had some little knowledge of me, so +made little or no difficulty,--only said, his inclination to serve +me could reach no farther than Calais, as he was to return by way +of Brussels to Paris; however, when I had once pass'd there, I +might get to Paris without interruption; but that in Paris I must +make friends and shift for myself.--Let me get to Paris, Monsieur +le Count, said I,--and I shall do very well. So I embark'd, and +never thought more of the matter. + +When La Fleur told me the Lieutenant de Police had been enquiring +after me,--the thing instantly recurred;--and by the time La Fleur +had well told me, the master of the hotel came into my room to tell +me the same thing, with this addition to it, that my passport had +been particularly asked after: the master of the hotel concluded +with saying, He hoped I had one.--Not I, faith! said I. + +The master of the hotel retired three steps from me, as from an +infected person, as I declared this;--and poor La Fleur advanced +three steps towards me, and with that sort of movement which a good +soul makes to succour a distress'd one: --the fellow won my heart +by it; and from that single trait I knew his character as +perfectly, and could rely upon it as firmly, as if he had served me +with fidelity for seven years. + +Mon seigneur! cried the master of the hotel; but recollecting +himself as he made the exclamation, he instantly changed the tone +of it.--If Monsieur, said he, has not a passport (apparemment) in +all likelihood he has friends in Paris who can procure him one.-- +Not that I know of, quoth I, with an air of indifference.--Then +certes, replied he, you'll be sent to the Bastile or the Chatelet +au moins.--Poo! said I, the King of France is a good natur'd soul: +--he'll hurt nobody.--Cela n'empeche pas, said he--you will +certainly be sent to the Bastile to-morrow morning.--But I've taken +your lodgings for a month, answer'd I, and I'll not quit them a day +before the time for all the kings of France in the world. La Fleur +whispered in my ear, That nobody could oppose the king of France. + +Pardi! said my host, ces Messieurs Anglois sont des gens tres +extraordinaires;--and, having both said and sworn it,--he went out. + + +THE PASSPORT. THE HOTEL AT PARIS. + + +I could not find in my heart to torture La Fleur's with a serious +look upon the subject of my embarrassment, which was the reason I +had treated it so cavalierly: and to show him how light it lay +upon my mind, I dropt the subject entirely; and whilst he waited +upon me at supper, talk'd to him with more than usual gaiety about +Paris, and of the Opera Comique.--La Fleur had been there himself, +and had followed me through the streets as far as the bookseller's +shop; but seeing me come out with the young fille de chambre, and +that we walk'd down the Quai de Conti together, La Fleur deem'd it +unnecessary to follow me a step further;--so making his own +reflections upon it, he took a shorter cut,--and got to the hotel +in time to be inform'd of the affair of the police against my +arrival. + +As soon as the honest creature had taken away, and gone down to sup +himself, I then began to think a little seriously about my +situation. - + +- And here, I know, Eugenius, thou wilt smile at the remembrance of +a short dialogue which passed betwixt us the moment I was going to +set out: --I must tell it here. + +Eugenius, knowing that I was as little subject to be overburden'd +with money as thought, had drawn me aside to interrogate me how +much I had taken care for. Upon telling him the exact sum, +Eugenius shook his head, and said it would not do; so pull'd out +his purse in order to empty it into mine.--I've enough in +conscience, Eugenius, said I.--Indeed, Yorick, you have not, +replied Eugenius; I know France and Italy better than you.--But you +don't consider, Eugenius, said I, refusing his offer, that before I +have been three days in Paris, I shall take care to say or do +something or other for which I shall get clapp'd up into the +Bastile, and that I shall live there a couple of months entirely at +the king of France's expense.--I beg pardon, said Eugenius drily: +really I had forgot that resource. + +Now the event I treated gaily came seriously to my door. + +Is it folly, or nonchalance, or philosophy, or pertinacity--or what +is it in me, that, after all, when La Fleur had gone down stairs, +and I was quite alone, I could not bring down my mind to think of +it otherwise than I had then spoken of it to Eugenius? + +- And as for the Bastile; the terror is in the word.--Make the most +of it you can, said I to myself, the Bastile is but another word +for a tower;--and a tower is but another word for a house you can't +get out of.--Mercy on the gouty! for they are in it twice a year.-- +But with nine livres a day, and pen and ink, and paper, and +patience, albeit a man can't get out, he may do very well within,-- +at least for a mouth or six weeks; at the end of which, if he is a +harmless fellow, his innocence appears, and he comes out a better +and wiser man than he went in. + +I had some occasion (I forget what) to step into the court-yard, as +I settled this account; and remember I walk'd down stairs in no +small triumph with the conceit of my reasoning.--Beshrew the sombre +pencil! said I, vauntingly--for I envy not its powers, which paints +the evils of life with so hard and deadly a colouring. The mind +sits terrified at the objects she has magnified herself, and +blackened: reduce them to their proper size and hue, she overlooks +them.--'Tis true, said I, correcting the proposition,--the Bastile +is not an evil to be despised;--but strip it of its towers--fill up +the fosse,--unbarricade the doors--call it simply a confinement, +and suppose 'tis some tyrant of a distemper--and not of a man, +which holds you in it,--the evil vanishes, and you bear the other +half without complaint. + +I was interrupted in the heyday of this soliloquy, with a voice +which I took to be of a child, which complained "it could not get +out."--I look'd up and down the passage, and seeing neither man, +woman, nor child, I went out without farther attention. + +In my return back through the passage, I heard the same words +repeated twice over; and, looking up, I saw it was a starling hung +in a little cage.--"I can't get out,--I can't get out," said the +starling. + +I stood looking at the bird: and to every person who came through +the passage it ran fluttering to the side towards which they +approach'd it, with the same lamentation of its captivity. "I +can't get out," said the starling.--God help thee! said I, but I'll +let thee out, cost what it will; so I turned about the cage to get +to the door: it was twisted and double twisted so fast with wire, +there was no getting it open without pulling the cage to pieces.--I +took both hands to it. + +The bird flew to the place where I was attempting his deliverance, +and thrusting his head through the trellis pressed his breast +against it as if impatient.--I fear, poor creature! said I, I +cannot set thee at liberty.--"No," said the starling,-- "I can't +get out--I can't get out," said the starling. + +I vow I never had my affections more tenderly awakened; nor do I +remember an incident in my life, where the dissipated spirits, to +which my reason had been a bubble, were so suddenly call'd home. +Mechanical as the notes were, yet so true in tune to nature were +they chanted, that in one moment they overthrew all my systematic +reasonings upon the Bastile; and I heavily walked upstairs, +unsaying every word I had said in going down them. + +Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, Slavery! said I,--still thou +art a bitter draught! and though thousands in all ages have been +made to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account.-- +'Tis thou, thrice sweet and gracious goddess, addressing myself to +Liberty, whom all in public or in private worship, whose taste is +grateful, and ever will be so, till Nature herself shall change.-- +No TINT of words can spot thy snowy mantle, or chymic power turn +thy sceptre into iron: --with thee to smile upon him as he eats his +crust, the swain is happier than his monarch, from whose court thou +art exiled!--Gracious Heaven! cried I, kneeling down upon the last +step but one in my ascent, grant me but health, thou great Bestower +of it, and give me but this fair goddess as my companion,--and +shower down thy mitres, if it seems good unto thy divine +providence, upon those heads which are aching for them! + + +THE CAPTIVE. PARIS. + + +The bird in his cage pursued me into my room; I sat down close to +my table, and leaning my head upon my hand, I began to figure to +myself the miseries of confinement. I was in a right frame for it, +and so I gave full scope to my imagination. + +I was going to begin with the millions of my fellow-creatures born +to no inheritance but slavery: but finding, however affecting the +picture was, that I could not bring it near me, and that the +multitude of sad groups in it did but distract me. - + +- I took a single captive, and having first shut him up in his +dungeon, I then look'd through the twilight of his grated door to +take his picture. + +I beheld his body half-wasted away with long expectation and +confinement, and felt what kind of sickness of the heart it was +which arises from hope deferr'd. Upon looking nearer I saw him +pale and feverish: in thirty years the western breeze had not once +fann'd his blood;--he had seen no sun, no moon, in all that time-- +nor had the voice of friend or kinsman breathed through his +lattice.--His children - + +But here my heart began to bleed--and I was forced to go on with +another part of the portrait. + +He was sitting upon the ground upon a little straw, in the furthest +corner of his dungeon, which was alternately his chair and bed: a +little calendar of small sticks were laid at the head, notch'd all +over with the dismal days and nights he had passed there;--he had +one of these little sticks in his hand, and, with a rusty nail he +was etching another day of misery to add to the heap. As I +darkened the little light he had, he lifted up a hopeless eye +towards the door, then cast it down,--shook his head, and went on +with his work of affliction. I heard his chains upon his legs, as +he turned his body to lay his little stick upon the bundle.--He +gave a deep sigh.--I saw the iron enter into his soul!--I burst +into tears.--I could not sustain the picture of confinement which +my fancy had drawn.--I started up from my chair, and calling La +Fleur: I bid him bespeak me a remise, and have it ready at the +door of the hotel by nine in the morning. + +I'll go directly, said I, myself to Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul. + +La Fleur would have put me to bed; but--not willing he should see +anything upon my cheek which would cost the honest fellow a heart- +ache,--I told him I would go to bed by myself,--and bid him go do +the same. + + +THE STARLING. ROAD TO VERSAILLES. + + +I got into my remise the hour I proposed: La Fleur got up behind, +and I bid the coachman make the best of his way to Versailles. + +As there was nothing in this road, or rather nothing which I look +for in travelling, I cannot fill up the blank better than with a +short history of this self-same bird, which became the subject of +the last chapter. + +Whilst the Honourable Mr.--was waiting for a wind at Dover, it had +been caught upon the cliffs, before it could well fly, by an +English lad who was his groom; who, not caring to destroy it, had +taken it in his breast into the packet;--and, by course of feeding +it, and taking it once under his protection, in a day or two grew +fond of it, and got it safe along with him to Paris. + +At Paris the lad had laid out a livre in a little cage for the +starling, and as he had little to do better the five months his +master staid there, he taught it, in his mother's tongue, the four +simple words--(and no more)--to which I own'd myself so much its +debtor. + +Upon his master's going on for Italy, the lad had given it to the +master of the hotel. But his little song for liberty being in an +UNKNOWN language at Paris, the bird had little or no store set by +him: so La Fleur bought both him and his cage for me for a bottle +of Burgundy. + +In my return from Italy I brought him with me to the country in +whose language he had learned his notes; and telling the story of +him to Lord A-, Lord A- begg'd the bird of me;--in a week Lord A- +gave him to Lord B-; Lord B- made a present of him to Lord C-; and +Lord C-'s gentleman sold him to Lord D-'s for a shilling; Lord D- +gave him to Lord E-; and so on--half round the alphabet. From that +rank he pass'd into the lower house, and pass'd the hands of as +many commoners. But as all these wanted to GET IN, and my bird +wanted to GET OUT, he had almost as little store set by him in +London as in Paris. + +It is impossible but many of my readers must have heard of him; and +if any by mere chance have ever seen him, I beg leave to inform +them, that that bird was my bird, or some vile copy set up to +represent him. + +I have nothing farther to add upon him, but that from that time to +this I have borne this poor starling as the crest to my arms.-- +Thus: + +[Picture which cannot be reproduced] + +- And let the herald's officers twist his neck about if they dare. + + +THE ADDRESS. VERSAILLES. + + +I should not like to have my enemy take a view of my mind when I am +going to ask protection of any man; for which reason I generally +endeavour to protect myself; but this going to Monsieur le Duc de +C- was an act of compulsion; had it been an act of choice, I should +have done it, I suppose, like other people. + +How many mean plans of dirty address, as I went along, did my +servile heart form! I deserved the Bastile for every one of them. + +Then nothing would serve me when I got within sight of Versailles, +but putting words and sentences together, and conceiving attitudes +and tones to wreath myself into Monsieur le Duc de C-'s good +graces.--This will do, said I.--Just as well, retorted I again, as +a coat carried up to him by an adventurous tailor, without taking +his measure. Fool! continued I,--see Monsieur le Duc's face +first;--observe what character is written in it;--take notice in +what posture he stands to hear you;--mark the turns and expressions +of his body and limbs;--and for the tone,--the first sound which +comes from his lips will give it you; and from all these together +you'll compound an address at once upon the spot, which cannot +disgust the Duke;--the ingredients are his own, and most likely to +go down. + +Well! said I, I wish it well over.--Coward again! as if man to man +was not equal throughout the whole surface of the globe; and if in +the field--why not face to face in the cabinet too? And trust me, +Yorick, whenever it is not so, man is false to himself and betrays +his own succours ten times where nature does it once. Go to the +Duc de C- with the Bastile in thy looks;--my life for it, thou wilt +be sent back to Paris in half an hour with an escort. + +I believe so, said I.--Then I'll go to the Duke, by heaven! with +all the gaiety and debonairness in the world. - + +- And there you are wrong again, replied I.--A heart at ease, +Yorick, flies into no extremes--'tis ever on its centre.--Well! +well! cried I, as the coachman turn'd in at the gates, I find I +shall do very well: and by the time he had wheel'd round the +court, and brought me up to the door, I found myself so much the +better for my own lecture, that I neither ascended the steps like a +victim to justice, who was to part with life upon the top most,-- +nor did I mount them with a skip and a couple of strides, as I do +when I fly up, Eliza! to thee to meet it. + +As I entered the door of the saloon I was met by a person, who +possibly might be the maitre d'hotel, but had more the air of one +of the under secretaries, who told me the Duc de C- was busy.--I am +utterly ignorant, said I, of the forms of obtaining an audience, +being an absolute stranger, and what is worse in the present +conjuncture of affairs, being an Englishman too.--He replied, that +did not increase the difficulty.--I made him a slight bow, and told +him, I had something of importance to say to Monsieur le Duc. The +secretary look'd towards the stairs, as if he was about to leave me +to carry up this account to some one.--But I must not mislead you, +said I,--for what I have to say is of no manner of importance to +Monsieur le Duc de C---but of great importance to myself.--C'est +une autre affaire, replied he.--Not at all, said I, to a man of +gallantry.--But pray, good sir, continued I, when can a stranger +hope to have access?--In not less than two hours, said he, looking +at his watch. The number of equipages in the court-yard seemed to +justify the calculation, that I could have no nearer a prospect;-- +and as walking backwards and forwards in the saloon, without a soul +to commune with, was for the time as bad as being in the Bastile +itself, I instantly went back to my remise, and bid the coachman +drive me to the Cordon Bleu, which was the nearest hotel. + +I think there is a fatality in it;--I seldom go to the place I set +out for. + + +LE PATISSIER. VERSAILLES. + + +Before I had got half way down the street I changed my mind: as I +am at Versailles, thought I, I might as well take a view of the +town; so I pull'd the cord, and ordered the coachman to drive round +some of the principal streets.--I suppose the town is not very +large, said I.--The coachman begg'd pardon for setting me right, +and told me it was very superb, and that numbers of the first dukes +and marquises and counts had hotels.--The Count de B-, of whom the +bookseller at the Quai de Conti had spoke so handsomely the night +before, came instantly into my mind.--And why should I not go, +thought I, to the Count de B-, who has so high an idea of English +books and English men--and tell him my story? so I changed my mind +a second time.--In truth it was the third; for I had intended that +day for Madame de R-, in the Rue St. Pierre, and had devoutly sent +her word by her fille de chambre that I would assuredly wait upon +her;--but I am governed by circumstances;--I cannot govern them: +so seeing a man standing with a basket on the other side of the +street, as if he had something to sell, I bid La Fleur go up to +him, and enquire for the Count's hotel. + +La Fleur returned a little pale; and told me it was a Chevalier de +St. Louis selling pates.--It is impossible, La Fleur, said I.--La +Fleur could no more account for the phenomenon than myself; but +persisted in his story: he had seen the croix set in gold, with +its red riband, he said, tied to his buttonhole--and had looked +into the basket and seen the pates which the Chevalier was selling; +so could not be mistaken in that. + +Such a reverse in man's life awakens a better principle than +curiosity: I could not help looking for some time at him as I sat +in the remise: --the more I look'd at him, his croix, and his +basket, the stronger they wove themselves into my brain.--I got out +of the remise, and went towards him. + +He was begirt with a clean linen apron which fell below his knees, +and with a sort of a bib that went half way up his breast; upon the +top of this, but a little below the hem, hung his croix. His +basket of little pates was covered over with a white damask napkin; +another of the same kind was spread at the bottom; and there was a +look of proprete and neatness throughout, that one might have +bought his pates of him, as much from appetite as sentiment. + +He made an offer of them to neither; but stood still with them at +the corner of an hotel, for those to buy who chose it without +solicitation. + +He was about forty-eight;--of a sedate look, something approaching +to gravity. I did not wonder.--I went up rather to the basket than +him, and having lifted up the napkin, and taking one of his pates +into my hand,--I begg'd he would explain the appearance which +affected me. + +He told me in a few words, that the best part of his life had +passed in the service, in which, after spending a small patrimony, +he had obtained a company and the croix with it; but that, at the +conclusion of the last peace, his regiment being reformed, and the +whole corps, with those of some other regiments, left without any +provision, he found himself in a wide world without friends, +without a livre,--and indeed, said he, without anything but this,-- +(pointing, as he said it, to his croix).--The poor Chevalier won my +pity, and he finished the scene with winning my esteem too. + +The king, he said, was the most generous of princes, but his +generosity could neither relieve nor reward everyone, and it was +only his misfortune to be amongst the number. He had a little +wife, he said, whom he loved, who did the patisserie; and added, he +felt no dishonour in defending her and himself from want in this +way--unless Providence had offer'd him a better. + +It would be wicked to withhold a pleasure from the good, in passing +over what happen'd to this poor Chevalier of St. Louis about nine +months after. + +It seems he usually took his stand near the iron gates which lead +up to the palace, and as his croix had caught the eyes of numbers, +numbers had made the same enquiry which I had done.--He had told +them the same story, and always with so much modesty and good +sense, that it had reach'd at last the king's ears;--who, hearing +the Chevalier had been a gallant officer, and respected by the +whole regiment as a man of honour and integrity,--he broke up his +little trade by a pension of fifteen hundred livres a year. + +As I have told this to please the reader, I beg he will allow me to +relate another, out of its order, to please myself: --the two +stories reflect light upon each other,--and 'tis a pity they should +be parted. + + +THE SWORD. RENNES. + + +When states and empires have their periods of declension, and feel +in their turns what distress and poverty is,--I stop not to tell +the causes which gradually brought the house d'E-, in Brittany, +into decay. The Marquis d'E- had fought up against his condition +with great firmness; wishing to preserve, and still show to the +world, some little fragments of what his ancestors had been;--their +indiscretions had put it out of his power. There was enough left +for the little exigencies of OBSCURITY.--But he had two boys who +looked up to him for LIGHT;--he thought they deserved it. He had +tried his sword--it could not open the way,--the MOUNTING was too +expensive,--and simple economy was not a match for it: --there was +no resource but commerce. + +In any other province in France, save Brittany, this was smiting +the root for ever of the little tree his pride and affection wish'd +to see re-blossom.--But in Brittany, there being a provision for +this, he avail'd himself of it; and, taking an occasion when the +states were assembled at Rennes, the Marquis, attended with his two +boys, entered the court; and having pleaded the right of an ancient +law of the duchy, which, though seldom claim'd, he said, was no +less in force, he took his sword from his side: --Here, said he, +take it; and be trusty guardians of it, till better times put me in +condition to reclaim it. + +The president accepted the Marquis's sword: he staid a few minutes +to see it deposited in the archives of his house--and departed. + +The Marquis and his whole family embarked the next clay for +Martinico, and in about nineteen or twenty years of successful +application to business, with some unlook'd for bequests from +distant branches of his house, return home to reclaim his nobility, +and to support it. + +It was an incident of good fortune which will never happen to any +traveller but a Sentimental one, that I should be at Rennes at the +very time of this solemn requisition: I call it solemn;--it was so +to me. + +The Marquis entered the court with his whole family: he supported +his lady,--his eldest son supported his sister, and his youngest +was at the other extreme of the line next his mother;--he put his +handkerchief to his face twice. - + +- There was a dead silence. When the Marquis had approached within +six paces of the tribunal, he gave the Marchioness to his youngest +son, and advancing three steps before his family,--he reclaim'd his +sword. His sword was given him, and the moment he got it into his +hand he drew it almost out of the scabbard: --'twas the shining +face of a friend he had once given up--he look'd attentively along +it, beginning at the hilt, as if to see whether it was the same,-- +when, observing a little rust which it had contracted near the +point, he brought it near his eye, and bending his head down over +it,--I think--I saw a tear fall upon the place. I could not be +deceived by what followed. + +"I shall find," said he, "some OTHER WAY to get it off." + +When the Marquis had said this, he returned his sword into its +scabbard, made a bow to the guardians of it,--and, with his wife +and daughter, and his two sons following him, walk'd out. + +O, how I envied him his feelings! + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +I found no difficulty in getting admittance to Monsieur le Count de +B-. The set of Shakespeares was laid upon the table, and he was +tumbling them over. I walk'd up close to the table, and giving +first such a look at the books as to make him conceive I knew what +they were,--I told him I had come without any one to present me, +knowing I should meet with a friend in his apartment, who, I +trusted, would do it for me: --it is my countryman, the great +Shakespeare, said I, pointing to his works--et ayez la boute, mon +cher ami, apostrophizing his spirit, added I, de me faire cet +honneur-la. - + +The Count smiled at the singularity of the introduction; and seeing +I look'd a little pale and sickly, insisted upon my taking an arm- +chair; so I sat down; and to save him conjectures upon a visit so +out of all rule, I told him simply of the incident in the +bookseller's shop, and how that had impelled me rather to go to him +with the story of a little embarrassment I was under, than to any +other man in France.--And what is your embarrassment? let me hear +it, said the Count. So I told him the story just as I have told it +the reader. + +- And the master of my hotel, said I, as I concluded it, will needs +have it, Monsieur le Count, that I shall be sent to the Bastile;-- +but I have no apprehensions, continued I;--for, in falling into the +hands of the most polish'd people in the world, and being conscious +I was a true man, and not come to spy the nakedness of the land, I +scarce thought I lay at their mercy.--It does not suit the +gallantry of the French, Monsieur le Count, said I, to show it +against invalids. + +An animated blush came into the Count de B-'s cheeks as I spoke +this.--Ne craignez rien--Don't fear, said he.--Indeed, I don't, +replied I again.--Besides, continued I, a little sportingly, I have +come laughing all the way from London to Paris, and I do not think +Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul is such an enemy to mirth as to send me +back crying for my pains. + +- My application to you, Monsieur le Count de B- (making him a low +bow), is to desire he will not. + +The Count heard me with great good nature, or I had not said half +as much,--and once or twice said,--C'est bien dit. So I rested my +cause there--and determined to say no more about it. + +The Count led the discourse: we talk'd of indifferent things,--of +books, and politics, and men;--and then of women.--God bless them +all! said I, after much discourse about them--there is not a man +upon earth who loves them so much as I do: after all the foibles I +have seen, and all the satires I have read against them, still I +love them; being firmly persuaded that a man, who has not a sort of +affection for the whole sex, is incapable of ever loving a single +one as he ought. + +Eh bien! Monsieur l'Anglois, said the Count, gaily;--you are not +come to spy the nakedness of the land;--I believe you;--ni encore, +I dare say, THAT of our women!--But permit me to conjecture,--if, +par hazard, they fell into your way, that the prospect would not +affect you. + +I have something within me which cannot bear the shock of the least +indecent insinuation: in the sportability of chit-chat I have +often endeavoured to conquer it, and with infinite pain have +hazarded a thousand things to a dozen of the sex together,--the +least of which I could not venture to a single one to gain heaven. + +Excuse me, Monsieur le Count, said I;--as for the nakedness of your +land, if I saw it, I should cast my eyes over it with tears in +them;--and for that of your women (blushing at the idea he had +excited in me) I am so evangelical in this, and have such a fellow- +feeling for whatever is weak about them, that I would cover it with +a garment if I knew how to throw it on: --But I could wish, +continued I, to spy the nakedness of their hearts, and through the +different disguises of customs, climates, and religion, find out +what is good in them to fashion my own by: --and therefore am I +come. + +It is for this reason, Monsieur le Count, continued I, that I have +not seen the Palais Royal,--nor the Luxembourg,--nor the Facade of +the Louvre,--nor have attempted to swell the catalogues we have of +pictures, statues, and churches.--I conceive every fair being as a +temple, and would rather enter in, and see the original drawings +and loose sketches hung up in it, than the Transfiguration of +Raphael itself. + +The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which +inflames the breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own home +into France,--and from France will lead me through Italy;--'tis a +quiet journey of the heart in pursuit of Nature, and those +affections which arise out of her, which make us love each other,-- +and the world, better than we do. + +The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the occasion; +and added very politely, how much he stood obliged to Shakespeare +for making me known to him.--But a propos, said he;--Shakespeare is +full of great things;--he forgot a small punctilio of announcing +your name: --it puts you under a necessity of doing it yourself. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +There is not a more perplexing affair in life to me, than to set +about telling any one who I am,--for there is scarce any body I +cannot give a better account of than myself; and I have often +wished I could do it in a single word,--and have an end of it. It +was the only time and occasion in my life I could accomplish this +to any purpose;--for Shakespeare lying upon the table, and +recollecting I was in his books, I took up Hamlet, and turning +immediately to the grave-diggers' scene in the fifth act, I laid my +finger upon Yorick, and advancing the book to the Count, with my +finger all the way over the name,--Me voici! said I. + +Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick's skull was put out of the +Count's mind by the reality of my own, or by what magic he could +drop a period of seven or eight hundred years, makes nothing in +this account;--'tis certain the French conceive better than they +combine;--I wonder at nothing in this world, and the less at this; +inasmuch as one of the first of our own Church, for whose candour +and paternal sentiments I have the highest veneration, fell into +the same mistake in the very same case: --"He could not bear," he +said, "to look into the sermons wrote by the King of Denmark's +jester." Good, my Lord said I; but there are two Yoricks. The +Yorick your Lordship thinks of, has been dead and buried eight +hundred years ago; he flourished in Horwendillus's court;--the +other Yorick is myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court.- +-He shook his head. Good God! said I, you might as well confound +Alexander the Great with Alexander the Coppersmith, my lord!-- +"'Twas all one," he replied. - + +- If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated your +Lordship, said I, I'm sure your Lordship would not have said so. + +The poor Count de B- fell but into the same ERROR. + +- Et, Monsieur, est-il Yorick? cried the Count.--Je le suis, said +I.--Vous?--Moi,--moi qui ai l'honneur de vous parler, Monsieur le +Comte.--Mon Dieu! said he, embracing me,--Vous etes Yorick! + +The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and left +me alone in his room. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +I could not conceive why the Count de B- had gone so abruptly out +of the room, any more than I could conceive why he had put the +Shakespeare into his pocket. - + +Mysteries which must explain themselves are not worth the loss of +time which a conjecture about them takes up: 'twas better to read +Shakespeare; so taking up "Much Ado About Nothing," I transported +myself instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in Sicily, and +got so busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, that I +thought not of Versailles, the Count, or the passport. + +Sweet pliability of man's spirit, that can at once surrender itself +to illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow of their weary +moments!--Long,--long since had ye number'd out my days, had I not +trod so great a part of them upon this enchanted ground. When my +way is too rough for my feet, or too steep for my strength, I get +off it, to some smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered over +with rosebuds of delights; and having taken a few turns in it, come +back strengthened and refresh'd.--When evils press sore upon me, +and there is no retreat from them in this world, then I take a new +course;--I leave it,--and as I have a clearer idea of the Elysian +fields than I have of heaven, I force myself, like AEneas, into +them.--I see him meet the pensive shade of his forsaken Dido, and +wish to recognise it;--I see the injured spirit wave her head, and +turn off silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours;--I +lose the feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections which +were wont to make me mourn for her when I was at school. + +SURELY THIS IS NOT WALKING IN A VAIN SHADOW--NOR DOES MAN DISQUIET +HIMSELF in vain BY IT: --he oftener does so in trusting the issue +of his commotions to reason only.--I can safely say for myself, I +was never able to conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart +so decisively, as beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and +gentle sensation to fight it upon its own ground + +When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de B- entered, +with my passport in his hand. Monsieur le Duc de C-, said the +Count, is as good a prophet, I dare say, as he is a statesman. Un +homme qui rit, said the Duke, ne sera jamais dangereux.--Had it +been for any one but the king's jester, added the Count, I could +not have got it these two hours.--Pardonnez moi, Monsieur le Count, +said I--I am not the king's jester.--But you are Yorick?--Yes.--Et +vous plaisantez?--I answered, Indeed I did jest,--but was not paid +for it;--'twas entirely at my own expense. + +We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the last we +had was in the licentious reign of Charles II.;--since which time +our manners have been so gradually refining, that our court at +present is so full of patriots, who wish for NOTHING but the +honours and wealth of their country;--and our ladies are all so +chaste, so spotless, so good, so devout,--there is nothing for a +jester to make a jest of. - + +Voila un persiflage! cried the Count. + + +THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES. + + +As the passport was directed to all lieutenant-governors, +governors, and commandants of cities, generals of armies, +justiciaries, and all officers of justice, to let Mr. Yorick the +king's jester, and his baggage, travel quietly along, I own the +triumph of obtaining the passport was not a little tarnish'd by the +figure I cut in it.--But there is nothing unmix'd in this world; +and some of the gravest of our divines have carried it so far as to +affirm, that enjoyment itself was attended even with a sigh,--and +that the greatest THEY KNEW OF terminated, IN A GENERAL WAY, in +little better than a convulsion. + +I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his Commentary +upon the Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks off in the +middle of a note to give an account to the world of a couple of +sparrows upon the out-edge of his window, which had incommoded him +all the time he wrote, and at last had entirely taken him off from +his genealogy. + +- 'Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts are certain, for +I have had the curiosity to mark them down one by one with my pen;- +-but the cock sparrow, during the little time that I could have +finished the other half of this note, has actually interrupted me +with the reiteration of his caresses three-and-twenty times and a +half. + +How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his creatures! + +Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be able +to write that to the world, which stains thy face with crimson to +copy, even in thy study. + +But this is nothing to my travels.--So I twice,--twice beg pardon +for it. + + +CHARACTER. VERSAILLES. + + +And how do you find the French? said the Count de B-, after he had +given me the passport. + +The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of courtesy, +I could not be at a loss to say something handsome to the enquiry. + +- Mais passe, pour cela.--Speak frankly, said he: do you find all +the urbanity in the French which the world give us the honour of?-- +I had found every thing, I said, which confirmed it.--Vraiment, +said the Count, les Francois sont polis.--To an excess, replied I. + +The Count took notice of the word exces; and would have it I meant +more than I said. I defended myself a long time as well as I could +against it.--He insisted I had a reserve, and that I would speak my +opinion frankly. + +I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain +compass, as well as an instrument; and that the social and other +calls have occasion by turns for every key in him; so that if you +begin a note too high or too low, there must be a want either in +the upper or under part, to fill up the system of harmony.--The +Count de B- did not understand music, so desired me to explain it +some other way. A polish'd nation, my dear Count, said I, makes +every one its debtor: and besides, Urbanity itself, like the fair +sex, has so many charms, it goes against the heart to say it can do +ill; and yet, I believe, there is but a certain line of perfection, +that man, take him altogether, is empower'd to arrive at: --if he +gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than gets them. I must +not presume to say how far this has affected the French in the +subject we are speaking of;--but, should it ever be the case of the +English, in the progress of their refinements, to arrive at the +same polish which distinguishes the French, if we did not lose the +politesse du coeur, which inclines men more to humane actions than +courteous ones,--we should at least lose that distinct variety and +originality of character, which distinguishes them, not only from +each other, but from all the world besides. + +I had a few of King William's shillings, as smooth as glass, in my +pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the illustration of +my hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I had proceeded so +far: - + +See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them before +him upon the table,--by jingling and rubbing one against another +for seventy years together in one body's pocket or another's, they +are become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling +from another. + +The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and passing but +few people's hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine +hand of Nature has given them;--they are not so pleasant to feel,-- +but in return the legend is so visible, that at the first look you +see whose image and superscription they bear.--But the French, +Monsieur le Count, added I (wishing to soften what I had said), +have so many excellences, they can the better spare this;--they are +a loyal, a gallant, a generous, an ingenious, and good temper'd +people as is under heaven;--if they have a fault--they are too +SERIOUS. + +Mon Dieu! cried the Count, rising out of his chair. + +Mais vous plaisantez, said he, correcting his exclamation.--I laid +my hand upon my breast, and with earnest gravity assured him it was +my most settled opinion. + +The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my +reasons, being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de C- +. + +But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your soup +with me, I beg, before you leave France, I may have the pleasure of +knowing you retract your opinion,--or, in what manner you support +it.--But, if you do support it, Monsieur Anglois, said he, you must +do it with all your powers, because you have the whole world +against you.--I promised the Count I would do myself the honour of +dining with him before I set out for Italy;--so took my leave. + + +THE TEMPTATION. PARIS. + + +When I alighted at the hotel, the porter told me a young woman with +a bandbox had been that moment enquiring for me.--I do not know, +said the porter, whether she is gone away or not. I took the key +of my chamber of him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within +ten steps of the top of the landing before my door, I met her +coming easily down. + +It was the fair fille de chambre I had walked along the Quai de +Conti with; Madame de R- had sent her upon some commission to a +marchande des modes within a step or two of the Hotel de Modene; +and as I had fail'd in waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I +had left Paris; and if so, whether I had not left a letter +addressed to her. + +As the fair fille de chambre was so near my door, she returned +back, and went into the room with me for a moment or two whilst I +wrote a card. + +It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of May,- +-the crimson window curtains (which were of the same colour as +those of the bed) were drawn close: --the sun was setting, and +reflected through them so warm a tint into the fair fille de +chambre's face,--I thought she blush'd;--the idea of it made me +blush myself: --we were quite alone; and that superinduced a second +blush before the first could get off. + +There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the blood is +more in fault than the man: --'tis sent impetuous from the heart, +and virtue flies after it,--not to call it back, but to make the +sensation of it more delicious to the nerves: --'tis associated. - + +But I'll not describe it;--I felt something at first within me +which was not in strict unison with the lesson of virtue I had +given her the night before.--I sought five minutes for a card;--I +knew I had not one.--I took up a pen.--I laid it down again;--my +hand trembled: --the devil was in me. + +I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we resist, +he will fly from us;--but I seldom resist him at all; from a +terror, though I may conquer, I may still get a hurt in the +combat;--so I give up the triumph for security; and, instead of +thinking to make him fly, I generally fly myself. + +The fair fille de chambre came close up to the bureau where I was +looking for a card--took up first the pen I cast down, then offer'd +to hold me the ink; she offer'd it so sweetly, I was going to +accept it;--but I durst not;--I have nothing, my dear, said I, to +write upon.--Write it, said she, simply, upon anything. - + +I was just going to cry out, Then I will write it, fair girl! upon +thy lips. - + +If I do, said I, I shall perish;--so I took her by the hand, and +led her to the door, and begg'd she would not forget the lesson I +had given her.--She said, indeed she would not;--and, as she +uttered it with some earnestness, she turn'd about, and gave me +both her hands, closed together, into mine;--it was impossible not +to compress them in that situation;--I wish'd to let them go; and +all the time I held them, I kept arguing within myself against it,- +-and still I held them on.--In two minutes I found I had all the +battle to fight over again;--and I felt my legs and every limb +about me tremble at the idea. + +The foot of the bed was within a yard and a half of the place where +we were standing.--I had still hold of her hands--and how it +happened I can give no account; but I neither ask'd her--nor drew +her--nor did I think of the bed;--but so it did happen, we both sat +down. + +I'll just show you, said the fair fille de chambre, the little +purse I have been making to-day to hold your crown. So she put her +hand into her right pocket, which was next me, and felt for it some +time--then into the left.--"She had lost it."--I never bore +expectation more quietly;--it was in her right pocket at last;--she +pull'd it out; it was of green taffeta, lined with a little bit of +white quilted satin, and just big enough to hold the crown: she +put it into my hand;--it was pretty; and I held it ten minutes with +the back of my hand resting upon her lap--looking sometimes at the +purse, sometimes on one side of it. + +A stitch or two had broke out in the gathers of my stock; the fair +fille de chambre, without saying a word, took out her little +housewife, threaded a small needle, and sew'd it up.--I foresaw it +would hazard the glory of the day; and, as she pass'd her hand in +silence across and across my neck in the manoeuvre, I felt the +laurels shake which fancy had wreath'd about my head. + +A strap had given way in her walk, and the buckle of her shoe was +just falling off.--See, said the fille de chambre, holding up her +foot.--I could not, for my soul but fasten the buckle in return, +and putting in the strap,--and lifting up the other foot with it, +when I had done, to see both were right,--in doing it too suddenly, +it unavoidably threw the fair fille de chambre off her centre,--and +then - + + +THE CONQUEST. + + +Yes,--and then -. Ye whose clay-cold heads and luke-warm hearts +can argue down or mask your passions, tell me, what trespass is it +that man should have them? or how his spirit stands answerable to +the Father of spirits but for his conduct under them? + +If Nature has so wove her web of kindness, that some threads of +love and desire are entangled with the piece,--must the whole web +be rent in drawing them out?--Whip me such stoics, great Governor +of Nature! said I to myself: --wherever thy providence shall place +me for the trials of my virtue;--whatever is my danger,--whatever +is my situation,--let me feel the movements which rise out of it, +and which belong to me as a man,--and, if I govern them as a good +one, I will trust the issues to thy justice; for thou hast made us, +and not we ourselves. + +As I finished my address, I raised the fair fille de chambre up by +the hand, and led her out of the room: --she stood by me till I +locked the door and put the key in my pocket,--and then,--the +victory being quite decisive--and not till then, I press'd my lips +to her cheek, and taking her by the hand again, led her safe to the +gate of the hotel. + + +THE MYSTERY. PARIS. + + +If a man knows the heart, he will know it was impossible to go back +instantly to my chamber;--it was touching a cold key with a flat +third to it upon the close of a piece of music, which had call'd +forth my affections: --therefore, when I let go the hand of the +fille de chambre, I remained at the gate of the hotel for some +time, looking at every one who pass'd by,--and forming conjectures +upon them, till my attention got fix'd upon a single object which +confounded all kind of reasoning upon him. + +It was a tall figure of a philosophic, serious, adust look, which +passed and repass'd sedately along the street, making a turn of +about sixty paces on each side of the gate of the hotel;--the man +was about fifty-two--had a small cane under his arm--was dress'd in +a dark drab-colour'd coat, waistcoat, and breeches, which seem'd to +have seen some years service: --they were still clean, and there +was a little air of frugal proprete throughout him. By his pulling +off his hat, and his attitude of accosting a good many in his way, +I saw he was asking charity: so I got a sous or two out of my +pocket ready to give him, as he took me in his turn.--He pass'd by +me without asking anything--and yet did not go five steps further +before he ask'd charity of a little woman.--I was much more likely +to have given of the two.--He had scarce done with the woman, when +he pull'd off his hat to another who was coming the same way.--An +ancient gentleman came slowly--and, after him, a young smart one.-- +He let them both pass, and ask'd nothing. I stood observing him +half an hour, in which time he had made a dozen turns backwards and +forwards, and found that he invariably pursued the same plan. + +There were two things very singular in this, which set my brain to +work, and to no purpose: --the first was, why the man should ONLY +tell his story to the sex;--and, secondly,--what kind of story it +was, and what species of eloquence it could be, which soften'd the +hearts of the women, which he knew 'twas to no purpose to practise +upon the men. + +There were two other circumstances, which entangled this mystery;-- +the one was, he told every woman what he had to say in her ear, and +in a way which had much more the air of a secret than a petition;-- +the other was, it was always successful.--He never stopp'd a woman, +but she pull'd out her purse, and immediately gave him something. + +I could form no system to explain the phenomenon. + +I had got a riddle to amuse me for the rest of the evening; so I +walk'd upstairs to my chamber. + + +THE CASE OF CONSCIENCE. PARIS. + + +I was immediately followed up by the master of the hotel, who came +into my room to tell me I must provide lodgings elsewhere.--How so, +friend? said I.--He answered, I had had a young woman lock'd up +with me two hours that evening in my bedchamber, and 'twas against +the rules of his house.--Very well, said I, we'll all part friends +then,--for the girl is no worse,--and I am no worse,--and you will +be just as I found you.--It was enough, he said, to overthrow the +credit of his hotel.--Voyez vous, Monsieur, said he, pointing to +the foot of the bed we had been sitting upon.--I own it had +something of the appearance of an evidence; but my pride not +suffering me to enter into any detail of the case, I exhorted him +to let his soul sleep in peace, as I resolved to let mine do that +night, and that I would discharge what I owed him at breakfast. + +I should not have minded, Monsieur, said he, if you had had twenty +girls--'Tis a score more, replied I, interrupting him, than I ever +reckon'd upon--Provided, added he, it had been but in a morning.-- +And does the difference of the time of the day at Paris make a +difference in the sin?--It made a difference, he said, in the +scandal.--I like a good distinction in my heart; and cannot say I +was intolerably out of temper with the man.--I own it is necessary, +resumed the master of the hotel, that a stranger at Paris should +have the opportunities presented to him of buying lace and silk +stockings and ruffles, et tout cela;--and 'tis nothing if a woman +comes with a band-box.--O, my conscience! said I, she had one but I +never look'd into it.--Then Monsieur, said he, has bought nothing?- +-Not one earthly thing, replied I.--Because, said he, I could +recommend one to you who would use you en conscience.--But I must +see her this night, said I.--He made me a low bow, and walk'd down. + +Now shall I triumph over this maitre d'hotel, cried I,--and what +then? Then I shall let him see I know he is a dirty fellow.--And +what then? What then?--I was too near myself to say it was for the +sake of others.--I had no good answer left;--there was more of +spleen than principle in my project, and I was sick of it before +the execution. + +In a few minutes the grisette came in with her box of lace.--I'll +buy nothing, however, said I, within myself. + +The grisette would show me everything.--I was hard to please: she +would not seem to see it; she opened her little magazine, and laid +all her laces one after another before me;--unfolded and folded +them up again one by one with the most patient sweetness.--I might +buy,--or not;--she would let me have everything at my own price: -- +the poor creature seem'd anxious to get a penny; and laid herself +out to win me, and not so much in a manner which seem'd artful, as +in one I felt simple and caressing. + +If there is not a fund of honest gullibility in man, so much the +worse;--my heart relented, and I gave up my second resolution as +quietly as the first.--Why should I chastise one for the trespass +of another? If thou art tributary to this tyrant of an host, +thought I, looking up in her face, so much harder is thy bread. + +If I had not had more than four louis d'ors in my purse, there was +no such thing as rising up and showing her the door, till I had +first laid three of them out in a pair of ruffles. + +- The master of the hotel will share the profit with her;--no +matter,--then I have only paid as many a poor soul has PAID before +me, for an act he COULD not do, or think of. + + +THE RIDDLE. PARIS. + + +When La Fleur came up to wait upon me at supper, he told me how +sorry the master of the hotel was for his affront to me in bidding +me change my lodgings. + +A man who values a good night's rest will not lie down with enmity +in his heart, if he can help it.--So I bid La Fleur tell the master +of the hotel, that I was sorry on my side for the occasion I had +given him;--and you may tell him, if you will, La Fleur, added I, +that if the young woman should call again, I shall not see her. + +This was a sacrifice not to him, but myself, having resolved, after +so narrow an escape, to run no more risks, but to leave Paris, if +it was possible, with all the virtue I enter'd it. + +C'est deroger a noblesse, Monsieur, said La Fleur, making me a bow +down to the ground as he said it.--Et encore, Monsieur, said he, +may change his sentiments;--and if (par hazard) he should like to +amuse himself,--I find no amusement in it, said I, interrupting +him. - + +Mon Dieu! said La Fleur,--and took away. + +In an hour's time he came to put me to bed, and was more than +commonly officious: --something hung upon his lips to say to me, or +ask me, which he could not get off: I could not conceive what it +was, and indeed gave myself little trouble to find it out, as I had +another riddle so much more interesting upon my mind, which was +that of the man's asking charity before the door of the hotel.--I +would have given anything to have got to the bottom of it; and +that, not out of curiosity,--'tis so low a principle of enquiry, in +general, I would not purchase the gratification of it with a two- +sous piece;--but a secret, I thought, which so soon and so +certainly soften'd the heart of every woman you came near, was a +secret at least equal to the philosopher's stone; had I both the +Indies, I would have given up one to have been master of it. + +I toss'd and turn'd it almost all night long in my brains to no +manner of purpose; and when I awoke in the morning, I found my +spirits as much troubled with my dreams, as ever the King of +Babylon had been with his; and I will not hesitate to affirm, it +would have puzzled all the wise men of Paris as much as those of +Chaldea to have given its interpretation. + + +LE DIMANCHE. PARIS. + + +It was Sunday; and when La Fleur came in, in the morning, with my +coffee and roll and butter, he had got himself so gallantly +array'd, I scarce knew him. + +I had covenanted at Montreuil to give him a new hat with a silver +button and loop, and four louis d'ors, pour s'adoniser, when we got +to Paris; and the poor fellow, to do him justice, had done wonders +with it. + +He had bought a bright, clean, good scarlet coat, and a pair of +breeches of the same.--They were not a crown worse, he said, for +the wearing.--I wish'd him hang'd for telling me.--They look'd so +fresh, that though I knew the thing could not be done, yet I would +rather have imposed upon my fancy with thinking I had bought them +new for the fellow, than that they had come out of the Rue de +Friperie. + +This is a nicety which makes not the heart sore at Paris. + +He had purchased, moreover, a handsome blue satin waistcoat, +fancifully enough embroidered: --this was indeed something the +worse for the service it had done, but 'twas clean scour'd;--the +gold had been touch'd up, and upon the whole was rather showy than +otherwise;--and as the blue was not violent, it suited with the +coat and breeches very well: he had squeez'd out of the money, +moreover, a new bag and a solitaire; and had insisted with the +fripier upon a gold pair of garters to his breeches knees.--He had +purchased muslin ruffles, bien brodees, with four livres of his own +money;--and a pair of white silk stockings for five more;--and to +top all, nature had given him a handsome figure, without costing +him a sous. + +He entered the room thus set off, with his hair dressed in the +first style, and with a handsome bouquet in his breast.--In a word, +there was that look of festivity in everything about him, which at +once put me in mind it was Sunday;--and, by combining both +together, it instantly struck me, that the favour he wish'd to ask +of me the night before, was to spend the day as every body in Paris +spent it besides. I had scarce made the conjecture, when La Fleur, +with infinite humility, but with a look of trust, as if I should +not refuse him, begg'd I would grant him the day, pour faire le +galant vis-a-vis de sa maitresse. + +Now it was the very thing I intended to do myself vis-a-vis Madame +de R-.--I had retained the remise on purpose for it, and it would +not have mortified my vanity to have had a servant so well dress'd +as La Fleur was, to have got up behind it: I never could have +worse spared him. + +But we must FEEL, not argue in these embarrassments.--The sons and +daughters of Service part with liberty, but not with nature, in +their contracts; they are flesh and blood, and have their little +vanities and wishes in the midst of the house of bondage, as well +as their task-masters;--no doubt, they have set their self-denials +at a price,--and their expectations are so unreasonable, that I +would often disappoint them, but that their condition puts it so +much in my power to do it. + +BEHOLD,--BEHOLD, I AM THY SERVANT--disarms me at once of the powers +of a master. - + +Thou shalt go, La Fleur! said I. + +- And what mistress, La Fleur, said I, canst thou have picked up in +so little a time at Paris? La Fleur laid his hand upon his breast, +and said 'twas a petite demoiselle, at Monsieur le Count de B-'s.-- +La Fleur had a heart made for society; and, to speak the truth of +him, let as few occasions slip him as his master;--so that somehow +or other,--but how,--heaven knows,--he had connected himself with +the demoiselle upon the landing of the staircase, during the time I +was taken up with my passport; and as there was time enough for me +to win the Count to my interest, La Fleur had contrived to make it +do to win the maid to his. The family, it seems, was to be at +Paris that day, and he had made a party with her, and two or three +more of the Count's household, upon the boulevards. + +Happy people! that once a week at least are sure to lay down all +your cares together, and dance and sing and sport away the weights +of grievance, which bow down the spirit of other nations to the +earth. + + +THE FRAGMENT. PARIS. + + +La Fleur had left me something to amuse myself with for the day +more than I had bargain'd for, or could have enter'd either into +his head or mine. + +He had brought the little print of butter upon a currant leaf: and +as the morning was warm, and he had a good step to bring it, he had +begg'd a sheet of waste paper to put betwixt the currant leaf and +his hand.--As that was plate sufficient, I bade him lay it upon the +table as it was; and as I resolved to stay within all day, I +ordered him to call upon the traiteur, to bespeak my dinner, and +leave me to breakfast by myself. + +When I had finished the butter, I threw the currant-leaf out of the +window, and was going to do the same by the waste paper;--but +stopping to read a line first, and that drawing me on to a second +and third,--I thought it better worth; so I shut the window, and +drawing a chair up to it, I sat down to read it. + +It was in the old French of Rabelais's time, and for aught I know +might have been wrote by him: --it was moreover in a Gothic letter, +and that so faded and gone off by damps and length of time, it cost +me infinite trouble to make anything of it.--I threw it down; and +then wrote a letter to Eugenius;--then I took it up again, and +embroiled my patience with it afresh;--and then to cure that, I +wrote a letter to Eliza.--Still it kept hold of me; and the +difficulty of understanding it increased but the desire. + +I got my dinner; and after I had enlightened my mind with a bottle +of Burgundy; I at it again,--and, after two or three hours poring +upon it, with almost as deep attention as ever Gruter or Jacob Spon +did upon a nonsensical inscription, I thought I made sense of it; +but to make sure of it, the best way, I imagined, was to turn it +into English, and see how it would look then;--so I went on +leisurely, as a trifling man does, sometimes writing a sentence,-- +then taking a turn or two,--and then looking how the world went, +out of the window; so that it was nine o'clock at night before I +had done it.--I then began and read it as follows. + + +THE FRAGMENT. PARIS. + + +- Now, as the notary's wife disputed the point with the notary with +too much heat,--I wish, said the notary, (throwing down the +parchment) that there was another notary here only to set down and +attest all this. - + +- And what would you do then, Monsieur? said she, rising hastily +up.--The notary's wife was a little fume of a woman, and the notary +thought it well to avoid a hurricane by a mild reply.--I would go, +answered he, to bed.--You may go to the devil, answer'd the +notary's wife. + +Now there happening to be but one bed in the house, the other two +rooms being unfurnished, as is the custom at Paris, and the notary +not caring to lie in the same bed with a woman who had but that +moment sent him pell mell to the devil, went forth with his hat and +cane and short cloak, the night being very windy, and walk'd out, +ill at ease, towards the Pont Neuf. + +Of all the bridges which ever were built, the whole world who have +pass'd over the Pont Neuf must own, that it is the noblest,--the +finest,--the grandest,--the lightest,--the longest,--the broadest, +that ever conjoin'd land and land together upon the face of the +terraqueous globe. + +[By this it seems as if the author of the fragment had not been a +Frenchman.] + +The worst fault which divines and the doctors of the Sorbonne can +allege against it is, that if there is but a capfull of wind in or +about Paris, 'tis more blasphemously sacre Dieu'd there than in any +other aperture of the whole city,--and with reason good and cogent, +Messieurs; for it comes against you without crying garde d'eau, and +with such unpremeditable puffs, that of the few who cross it with +their hats on, not one in fifty but hazards two livres and a half, +which is its full worth. + +The poor notary, just as he was passing by the sentry, +instinctively clapp'd his cane to the side of it, but in raising it +up, the point of his cane catching hold of the loop of the +sentinel's hat, hoisted it over the spikes of the ballustrade clear +into the Seine. - + +- 'TIS AN ILL WIND, said a boatman, who catched it, WHICH BLOWS +NOBODY ANY GOOD. + +The sentry, being a Gascon, incontinently twirled up his whiskers, +and levell'd his arquebuss. + +Arquebusses in those days went off with matches; and an old woman's +paper lantern at the end of the bridge happening to be blown out, +she had borrow'd the sentry's match to light it: --it gave a +moment's time for the Gascon's blood to run cool, and turn the +accident better to his advantage.--'TIS AN ILL WIND, said he, +catching off the notary's castor, and legitimating the capture with +the boatman's adage. + +The poor notary crossed the bridge, and passing along the Rue de +Dauphine into the fauxbourgs of St. Germain, lamented himself as he +walked along in this manner: - + +Luckless man that I am! said the notary, to be the sport of +hurricanes all my days: --to be born to have the storm of ill +language levell'd against me and my profession wherever I go; to be +forced into marriage by the thunder of the church to a tempest of a +woman;--to be driven forth out of my house by domestic winds, and +despoil'd of my castor by pontific ones!--to be here, bareheaded, +in a windy night, at the mercy of the ebbs and flows of accidents!- +-Where am I to lay my head?--Miserable man! what wind in the two- +and-thirty points of the whole compass can blow unto thee, as it +does to the rest of thy fellow-creatures, good? + +As the notary was passing on by a dark passage, complaining in this +sort, a voice call'd out to a girl, to bid her run for the next +notary.--Now the notary being the next, and availing himself of his +situation, walk'd up the passage to the door, and passing through +an old sort of a saloon, was usher'd into a large chamber, +dismantled of everything but a long military pike,--a breastplate,- +-a rusty old sword, and bandoleer, hung up, equidistant, in four +different places against the wall. + +An old personage who had heretofore been a gentleman, and unless +decay of fortune taints the blood along with it, was a gentleman at +that time, lay supporting his head upon his hand in his bed; a +little table with a taper burning was set close beside it, and +close by the table was placed a chair: --the notary sat him down in +it; and pulling out his inkhorn and a sheet or two of paper which +he had in his pocket, he placed them before him; and dipping his +pen in his ink, and leaning his breast over the table, he disposed +everything to make the gentleman's last will and testament + +Alas! Monsieur le Notaire, said the gentleman, raising himself up +a little, I have nothing to bequeath, which will pay the expense of +bequeathing, except the history of myself, which I could not die in +peace, unless I left it as a legacy to the world: the profits +arising out of it I bequeath to you for the pains of taking it from +me.--It is a story so uncommon, it must be read by all mankind;--it +will make the fortunes of your house.--The notary dipp'd his pen +into his inkhorn.--Almighty Director of every event in my life! +said the old gentleman, looking up earnestly, and raising his hands +towards heaven,--Thou, whose hand has led me on through such a +labyrinth of strange passages down into this scene of desolation, +assist the decaying memory of an old, infirm, and broken-hearted +man;--direct my tongue by the spirit of thy eternal truth, that +this stranger may set down nought but what is written in that BOOK, +from whose records, said he, clasping his hands together, I am to +be condemn'd or acquitted!--the notary held up the point of his pen +betwixt the taper and his eye. - + +It is a story, Monsieur le Notaire, said the gentleman, which will +rouse up every affection in nature;--it will kill the humane, and +touch the heart of Cruelty herself with pity. - + +- The notary was inflamed with a desire to begin, and put his pen a +third time into his ink-horn--and the old gentleman, turning a +little more towards the notary, began to dictate his story in these +words: - + +- And where is the rest of it, La Fleur? said I, as he just then +enter'd the room. + + +THE FRAGMENT, AND THE BOUQUET. {1} PARIS. + + +When La Fleur came up close to the table, and was made to +comprehend what I wanted, he told me there were only two other +sheets of it, which he had wrapped round the stalks of a bouquet to +keep it together, which he had presented to the demoiselle upon the +boulevards.--Then prithee, La Fleur, said I, step back to her to +the Count de B-'s hotel, and see if thou canst get it.--There is no +doubt of it, said La Fleur;--and away he flew. + +In a very little time the poor fellow came back quite out of +breath, with deeper marks of disappointment in his looks than could +arise from the simple irreparability of the fragment. Juste Ciel! +in less than two minutes that the poor fellow had taken his last +tender farewell of her--his faithless mistress had given his gage +d'amour to one of the Count's footmen,--the footman to a young +sempstress,--and the sempstress to a fiddler, with my fragment at +the end of it.--Our misfortunes were involved together: --I gave a +sigh,--and La Fleur echoed it back again to my ear. + +- How perfidious! cried La Fleur.--How unlucky! said I. + +- I should not have been mortified, Monsieur, quoth La Fleur, if +she had lost it.--Nor I, La Fleur, said I, had I found it. + +Whether I did or no will be seen hereafter. + + +THE ACT OF CHARITY. PARIS. + + +The man who either disdains or fears to walk up a dark entry may be +an excellent good man, and fit for a hundred things, but he will +not do to make a good Sentimental Traveller.--I count little of the +many things I see pass at broad noonday, in large and open +streets.--Nature is shy, and hates to act before spectators; but in +such an unobserved corner you sometimes see a single short scene of +hers worth all the sentiments of a dozen French plays compounded +together,--and yet they are absolutely fine;--and whenever I have a +more brilliant affair upon my hands than common, as they suit a +preacher just as well as a hero, I generally make my sermon out of +'em;--and for the text,--"Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, Phrygia and +Pamphylia,"--is as good as any one in the Bible. + +There is a long dark passage issuing out from the Opera Comique +into a narrow street; 'tis trod by a few who humbly wait for a +fiacre, {2} or wish to get off quietly o'foot when the opera is +done. At the end of it, towards the theatre, 'tis lighted by a +small candle, the light of which is almost lost before you get +half-way down, but near the door--'tis more for ornament than use: +you see it as a fixed star of the least magnitude; it burns,--but +does little good to the world, that we know of. + +In returning along this passage, I discerned, as I approached +within five or six paces of the door, two ladies standing arm-in- +arm with their backs against the wall, waiting, as I imagined, for +a fiacre;--as they were next the door, I thought they had a prior +right; so edged myself up within a yard or little more of them, and +quietly took my stand.--I was in black, and scarce seen. + +The lady next me was a tall lean figure of a woman, of about +thirty-six; the other of the same size and make, of about forty: +there was no mark of wife or widow in any one part of either of +them;--they seem'd to be two upright vestal sisters, unsapped by +caresses, unbroke in upon by tender salutations.--I could have +wish'd to have made them happy: --their happiness was destin'd that +night, to come from another quarter. + +A low voice, with a good turn of expression, and sweet cadence at +the end of it, begg'd for a twelve-sous piece betwixt them, for the +love of heaven. I thought it singular that a beggar should fix the +quota of an alms--and that the sum should be twelve times as much +as what is usually given in the dark.--They both seemed astonished +at it as much as myself.--Twelve sous! said one.--A twelve-sous +piece! said the other,--and made no reply. + +The poor man said, he knew not how to ask less of ladies of their +rank; and bow'd down his head to the ground. + +Poo! said they,--we have no money. + +The beggar remained silent for a moment or two, and renew'd his +supplication. + +- Do not, my fair young ladies, said he, stop your good ears +against me.--Upon my word, honest man! said the younger, we have no +change.--Then God bless you, said the poor man, and multiply those +joys which you can give to others without change!--I observed the +elder sister put her hand into her pocket.--I'll see, said she, if +I have a sous. A sous! give twelve, said the supplicant; Nature +has been bountiful to you, be bountiful to a poor man. + +- I would friend, with all my heart, said the younger, if I had it. + +My fair charitable! said he, addressing himself to the elder,--what +is it but your goodness and humanity which makes your bright eyes +so sweet, that they outshine the morning even in this dark passage? +and what was it which made the Marquis de Santerre and his brother +say so much of you both as they just passed by? + +The two ladies seemed much affected; and impulsively, at the same +time they both put their hands into their pocket, and each took out +a twelve-sous piece. + +The contest betwixt them and the poor supplicant was no more;--it +was continued betwixt themselves, which of the two should give the +twelve-sous piece in charity;--and, to end the dispute, they both +gave it together, and the man went away. + + +THE RIDDLE EXPLAINED. PARIS. + + +I stepped hastily after him: it was the very man whose success in +asking charity of the women before the door of the hotel had so +puzzled me;--and I found at once his secret, or at least the basis +of it: --'twas flattery. + +Delicious essence! how refreshing art thou to Nature! how strongly +are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side! how sweetly +dost thou mix with the blood, and help it through the most +difficult and tortuous passages to the heart! + +The poor man, as he was not straiten'd for time, had given it here +in a larger dose: 'tis certain he had a way of bringing it into a +less form, for the many sudden cases he had to do with in the +streets: but how he contrived to correct, sweeten, concentre, and +qualify it,--I vex not my spirit with the enquiry;--it is enough +the beggar gained two twelve-sous pieces--and they can best tell +the rest, who have gained much greater matters by it. + + +PARIS. + + +We get forwards in the world, not so much by doing services, as +receiving them; you take a withering twig, and put it in the +ground; and then you water it, because you have planted it. + +Monsieur le Count de B-, merely because he had done me one kindness +in the affair of my passport, would go on and do me another, the +few days he was at Paris, in making me known to a few people of +rank; and they were to present me to others, and so on. + +I had got master of my SECRET just in time to turn these honours to +some little account; otherwise, as is commonly the case, I should +have dined or supp'd a single time or two round, and then, by +TRANSLATING French looks and attitudes into plain English, I should +presently have seen, that I had hold of the couvert {3} of some +more entertaining guest; and in course should have resigned all my +places one after another, merely upon the principle that I could +not keep them.--As it was, things did not go much amiss. + +I had the honour of being introduced to the old Marquis de B-: in +days of yore he had signalized himself by some small feats of +chivalry in the Cour d'Amour, and had dress'd himself out to the +idea of tilts and tournaments ever since.--The Marquis de B- wish'd +to have it thought the affair was somewhere else than in his brain. +"He could like to take a trip to England," and asked much of the +English ladies.--Stay where you are, I beseech you, Monsieur le +Marquis, said I.--Les Messieurs Anglois can scarce get a kind look +from them as it is.--The Marquis invited me to supper. + +Monsieur P-, the farmer-general, was just as inquisitive about our +taxes. They were very considerable, he heard.--If we knew but how +to collect them, said I, making him a low bow. + +I could never have been invited to Mons. P-'s concerts upon any +other terms. + +I had been misrepresented to Madame de Q- as an esprit.--Madame de +Q- was an esprit herself: she burnt with impatience to see me, and +hear me talk. I had not taken my seat, before I saw she did not +care a sous whether I had any wit or no;--I was let in, to be +convinced she had. I call heaven to witness I never once opened +the door of my lips. + +Madame de V- vow'd to every creature she met--"She had never had a +more improving conversation with a man in her life." + +There are three epochas in the empire of a French woman.--She is +coquette,--then deist,--then devote: the empire during these is +never lost,--she only changes her subjects when thirty-five years +and more have unpeopled her dominion of the slaves of love, she re- +peoples it with slaves of infidelity,--and then with the slaves of +the church. + +Madame de V- was vibrating betwixt the first of those epochas: the +colour of the rose was fading fast away;--she ought to have been a +deist five years before the time I had the honour to pay my first +visit. + +She placed me upon the same sofa with her, for the sake of +disputing the point of religion more closely.--In short Madame de +V- told me she believed nothing.--I told Madame de V- it might be +her principle, but I was sure it could not be her interest to level +the outworks, without which I could not conceive how such a citadel +as hers could be defended;--that there was not a more dangerous +thing in the world than for a beauty to be a deist;--that it was a +debt I owed my creed not to conceal it from her;--that I had not +been five minutes sat upon the sofa beside her, but I had begun to +form designs;--and what is it, but the sentiments of religion, and +the persuasion they had excited in her breast, which could have +check'd them as they rose up? + +We are not adamant, said I, taking hold of her hand;--and there is +need of all restraints, till age in her own time steals in and lays +them on us.--But my dear lady, said I, kissing her hand,--'tis too- +-too soon. + +I declare I had the credit all over Paris of unperverting Madame de +V-.--She affirmed to Monsieur D- and the Abbe M-, that in one half +hour I had said more for revealed religion, than all their +Encyclopaedia had said against it.--I was listed directly into +Madame de V-'s coterie;--and she put off the epocha of deism for +two years. + +I remember it was in this coterie, in the middle of a discourse, in +which I was showing the necessity of a FIRST cause, when the young +Count de Faineant took me by the hand to the farthest corner of the +room, to tell me my solitaire was pinn'd too straight about my +neck.--It should be plus badinant, said the Count, looking down +upon his own;--but a word, Monsieur Yorick, TO THE WISE - + +And FROM THE WISE, Monsieur le Count, replied I, making him a bow,- +-IS ENOUGH. + +The Count de Faineant embraced me with more ardour than ever I was +embraced by mortal man. + +For three weeks together I was of every man's opinion I met.-- +Pardi! ce Monsieur Yorick a autant d'esprit que nous autres.--Il +raisonne bien, said another.--C'est un bon enfant, said a third.-- +And at this price I could have eaten and drank and been merry all +the days of my life at Paris; but 'twas a dishonest RECKONING;--I +grew ashamed of it.--It was the gain of a slave;--every sentiment +of honour revolted against it;--the higher I got, the more was I +forced upon my BEGGARLY SYSTEM;--the better the coterie,--the more +children of Art;--I languish'd for those of Nature: and one night, +after a most vile prostitution of myself to half a dozen different +people, I grew sick,--went to bed;--order'd La Fleur to get me +horses in the morning to set out for Italy. + + +MARIA. MOULINES. + + +I never felt what the distress of plenty was in any one shape till +now,--to travel it through the Bourbonnois, the sweetest part of +France,--in the heyday of the vintage, when Nature is pouring her +abundance into every one's lap, and every eye is lifted up,--a +journey, through each step of which Music beats time to Labour, and +all her children are rejoicing as they carry in their clusters: to +pass through this with my affections flying out, and kindling at +every group before me,--and every one of them was pregnant with +adventures. - + +Just heaven!--it would fill up twenty volumes;--and alas! I have +but a few small pages left of this to crowd it into,--and half of +these must be taken up with the poor Maria my friend, Mr. Shandy, +met with near Moulines. + +The story he had told of that disordered maid affected me not a +little in the reading; but when I got within the neighbourhood +where she lived, it returned so strong into the mind, that I could +not resist an impulse which prompted me to go half a league out of +the road, to the village where her parents dwelt, to enquire after +her. + +'Tis going, I own, like the Knight of the Woeful Countenance in +quest of melancholy adventures. But I know not how it is, but I am +never so perfectly conscious of the existence of a soul within me, +as when I am entangled in them. + +The old mother came to the door; her looks told me the story before +she open'd her mouth.--She had lost her husband; he had died, she +said, of anguish, for the loss of Maria's senses, about a month +before.--She had feared at first, she added, that it would have +plunder'd her poor girl of what little understanding was left;-- +but, on the contrary, it had brought her more to herself: --still, +she could not rest.--Her poor daughter, she said, crying, was +wandering somewhere about the road. + +Why does my pulse beat languid as I write this? and what made La +Fleur, whose heart seem'd only to be tuned to joy, to pass the back +of his hand twice across his eyes, as the woman stood and told it? +I beckoned to the postilion to turn back into the road. + +When we had got within half a league of Moulines, at a little +opening in the road leading to a thicket, I discovered poor Maria +sitting under a poplar. She was sitting with her elbow in her lap, +and her head leaning on one side within her hand: --a small brook +ran at the foot of the tree. + +I bid the postilion go on with the chaise to Moulines--and La Fleur +to bespeak my supper;--and that I would walk after him. + +She was dress'd in white, and much as my friend described her, +except that her hair hung loose, which before was twisted within a +silk net.--She had superadded likewise to her jacket, a pale green +riband, which fell across her shoulder to the waist; at the end of +which hung her pipe.--Her goat had been as faithless as her lover; +and she had got a little dog in lieu of him, which she had kept +tied by a string to her girdle: as I looked at her dog, she drew +him towards her with the string.--"Thou shalt not leave me, +Sylvio," said she. I look'd in Maria's eyes and saw she was +thinking more of her father than of her lover, or her little goat; +for, as she utter'd them, the tears trickled down her cheeks. + +I sat down close by her; and Maria let me wipe them away as they +fell, with my handkerchief.--I then steep'd it in my own,--and then +in hers,--and then in mine,--and then I wip'd hers again;--and as I +did it, I felt such undescribable emotions within me, as I am sure +could not be accounted for from any combinations of matter and +motion. + +I am positive I have a soul; nor can all the books with which +materialists have pester'd the world ever convince me to the +contrary. + + +MARIA. + + +When Maria had come a little to herself, I ask'd her if she +remembered a pale thin person of a man, who had sat down betwixt +her and her goat about two years before? She said she was +unsettled much at that time, but remembered it upon two accounts: - +-that ill as she was, she saw the person pitied her; and next, that +her goat had stolen his handkerchief, and she had beat him for the +theft;--she had wash'd it, she said, in the brook, and kept it ever +since in her pocket to restore it to him in case she should ever +see him again, which, she added, he had half promised her. As she +told me this, she took the handkerchief out of her pocket to let me +see it; she had folded it up neatly in a couple of vine leaves, +tied round with a tendril;--on opening it, I saw an S. marked in +one of the corners. + +She had since that, she told me, stray'd as far as Rome, and walk'd +round St. Peter's once,--and return'd back;--that she found her way +alone across the Apennines;--had travell'd over all Lombardy, +without money,--and through the flinty roads of Savoy without +shoes: --how she had borne it, and how she had got supported, she +could not tell;--but GOD TEMPERS THE WIND, said Maria, TO THE SHORN +LAMB. + +Shorn indeed! and to the quick, said I: and wast thou in my own +land, where I have a cottage, I would take thee to it, and shelter +thee: thou shouldst eat of my own bread and drink of my own cup;-- +I would be kind to thy Sylvio;--in all thy weaknesses and +wanderings I would seek after thee and bring thee back;--when the +sun went down I would say my prayers: and when I had done thou +shouldst play thy evening song upon thy pipe, nor would the incense +of my sacrifice be worse accepted for entering heaven along with +that of a broken heart! + +Nature melted within me, as I utter'd this; and Maria observing, as +I took out my handkerchief, that it was steep'd too much already to +be of use, would needs go wash it in the stream.--And where will +you dry it, Maria? said I.--I'll dry it in my bosom, said she: -- +'twill do me good. + +And is your heart still so warm, Maria? said I. + +I touch'd upon the string on which hung all her sorrows: --she +look'd with wistful disorder for some time in my face; and then, +without saying any thing, took her pipe and play'd her service to +the Virgin.--The string I had touched ceased to vibrate;--in a +moment or two Maria returned to herself,--let her pipe fall,--and +rose up. + +And where are you going, Maria? said I.--She said, to Moulines.-- +Let us go, said I, together.--Maria put her arm within mine, and +lengthening the string, to let the dog follow,--in that order we +enter'd Moulines. + + +MARIA. MOULINES. + + +Though I hate salutations and greetings in the market-place, yet, +when we got into the middle of this, I stopp'd to take my last look +and last farewell of Maria. + +Maria, though not tall, was nevertheless of the first order of fine +forms: --affliction had touched her looks with something that was +scarce earthly;--still she was feminine;--and so much was there +about her of all that the heart wishes, or the eye looks for in +woman, that could the traces be ever worn out of her brain, and +those of Eliza out of mine, she should NOT ONLY EAT OF MY BREAD AND +DRINK OF MY OWN CUP, but Maria should lie in my bosom, and be unto +me as a daughter. + +Adieu, poor luckless maiden!--Imbibe the oil and wine which the +compassion of a stranger, as he journeyeth on his way, now pours +into thy wounds;--the Being, who has twice bruised thee, can only +bind them up for ever. + + +THE BOURBONNNOIS. + + +There was nothing from which I had painted out for my self so +joyous a riot of the affections, as in this journey in the vintage, +through this part of France; but pressing through this gate, of +sorrow to it, my sufferings have totally unfitted me. In every +scene of festivity, I saw Maria in the background of the piece, +sitting pensive under her poplar; and I had got almost to Lyons +before I was able to cast a shade across her. + +- Dear Sensibility! source inexhausted of all that's precious in +our joys, or costly in our sorrows! thou chainest thy martyr down +upon his bed of straw--and 'tis thou who lift'st him up to Heaven!- +-Eternal Fountain of our feelings!--'tis here I trace thee--and +this is thy "DIVINITY WHICH STIRS WITHIN ME;"--not that, in some +sad and sickening moments, "MY SOUL SHRINKS BACK UPON HERSELF, AND +STARTLES AT DESTRUCTION;"--mere pomp of words!--but that I feel +some generous joys and generous cares beyond myself;--all comes +from thee, great--great SENSORIUM of the world! which vibrates, if +a hair of our heads but falls upon the ground, in the remotest +desert of thy creation.--Touch'd with thee, Eugenius draws my +curtain when I languish--hears my tale of symptoms, and blames the +weather for the disorder of his nerves. Thou giv'st a portion of +it sometimes to the roughest peasant who traverses the bleakest +mountains;--he finds the lacerated lamb of another's flock.--This +moment I behold him leaning with his head against his crook, with +piteous inclination looking down upon it!--Oh! had I come one +moment sooner! it bleeds to death!--his gentle heart bleeds with +it. - + +Peace to thee, generous swain!--I see thou walkest off with +anguish,--but thy joys shall balance it;--for, happy is thy +cottage,--and happy is the sharer of it,--and happy are the lambs +which sport about you! + + +THE SUPPER. + + +A shoe coming loose from the fore foot of the thill-horse, at the +beginning of the ascent of mount Taurira, the postilion dismounted, +twisted the shoe off, and put it in his pocket; as the ascent was +of five or six miles, and that horse our main dependence, I made a +point of having the shoe fastened on again, as well as we could; +but the postilion had thrown away the nails, and the hammer in the +chaise box being of no great use without them, I submitted to go +on. + +He had not mounted half a mile higher, when, coming to a flinty +piece of road, the poor devil lost a second shoe, and from off his +other fore foot. I then got out of the chaise in good earnest; and +seeing a house about a quarter of a mile to the left hand, with a +great deal to do I prevailed upon the postilion to turn up to it. +The look of the house, and of every thing about it, as we drew +nearer, soon reconciled me to the disaster.--It was a little farm- +house, surrounded with about twenty acres of vineyard, about as +much corn;--and close to the house, on one side, was a potagerie of +an acre and a half, full of everything which could make plenty in a +French peasant's house;--and, on the other side, was a little wood, +which furnished wherewithal to dress it. It was about eight in the +evening when I got to the house--so I left the postilion to manage +his point as he could;--and, for mine, I walked directly into the +house. + +The family consisted of an old grey-headed man and his wife, with +five or six sons and sons-in-law, and their several wives, and a +joyous genealogy out of them. + +They were all sitting down together to their lentil-soup; a large +wheaten loaf was in the middle of the table; and a flagon of wine +at each end of it promised joy through the stages of the repast: -- +'twas a feast of love. + +The old man rose up to meet me, and with a respectful cordiality +would have me sit down at the table; my heart was set down the +moment I enter'd the room; so I sat down at once like a son of the +family; and to invest myself in the character as speedily as I +could, I instantly borrowed the old man's knife, and taking up the +loaf, cut myself a hearty luncheon; and, as I did it, I saw a +testimony in every eye, not only of an honest welcome, but of a +welcome mix'd with thanks that I had not seem'd to doubt it. + +Was it this? or tell me, Nature, what else it was that made this +morsel so sweet,--and to what magic I owe it, that the draught I +took of their flagon was so delicious with it, that they remain +upon my palate to this hour? + +If the supper was to my taste,--the grace which followed it was +much more so. + + +THE GRACE. + + +When supper was over, the old man gave a knock upon the table with +the haft of his knife, to bid them prepare for the dance: the +moment the signal was given, the women and girls ran altogether +into a back apartment to tie up their hair,--and the young men to +the door to wash their faces, and change their sabots; and in three +minutes every soul was ready upon a little esplanade before the +house to begin.--The old man and his wife came out last, and +placing me betwixt them, sat down upon a sofa of turf by the door. + +The old man had some fifty years ago been no mean performer upon +the vielle,--and at the age he was then of, touch'd it well enough +for the purpose. His wife sung now and then a little to the tune,- +-then intermitted,--and join'd her old man again, as their children +and grand-children danced before them. + +It was not till the middle of the second dance, when, from some +pauses in the movements, wherein they all seemed to look up, I +fancied I could distinguish an elevation of spirit different from +that which is the cause or the effect of simple jollity. In a +word, I thought I beheld Religion mixing in the dance: --but, as I +had never seen her so engaged, I should have look'd upon it now as +one of the illusions of an imagination which is eternally +misleading me, had not the old man, as soon as the dance ended, +said, that this was their constant way; and that all his life long +he had made it a rule, after supper was over, to call out his +family to dance and rejoice; believing, he said, that a cheerful +and contented mind was the best sort of thanks to heaven that an +illiterate peasant could pay, - + +Or a learned prelate either, said I. + + +THE CASE OF DELICACY. + + +When you have gained the top of Mount Taurira, you run presently +down to Lyons: --adieu, then, to all rapid movements! 'Tis a +journey of caution; and it fares better with sentiments, not to be +in a hurry with them; so I contracted with a voiturin to take his +time with a couple of mules, and convoy me in my own chaise safe to +Turin, through Savoy. + +Poor, patient, quiet, honest people! fear not: your poverty, the +treasury of your simple virtues, will not be envied you by the +world, nor will your valleys be invaded by it.--Nature! in the +midst of thy disorders, thou art still friendly to the scantiness +thou hast created: with all thy great works about thee, little +hast thou left to give, either to the scythe or to the sickle;--but +to that little thou grantest safety and protection; and sweet are +the dwellings which stand so shelter'd. + +Let the way-worn traveller vent his complaints upon the sudden +turns and dangers of your roads,--your rocks,--your precipices;-- +the difficulties of getting up,--the horrors of getting down,-- +mountains impracticable,--and cataracts, which roll down great +stones from their summits, and block his road up.--The peasants had +been all day at work in removing a fragment of this kind between +St. Michael and Madane; and, by the time my voiturin got to the +place, it wanted full two hours of completing before a passage +could any how be gain'd: there was nothing but to wait with +patience;--'twas a wet and tempestuous night; so that by the delay, +and that together, the voiturin found himself obliged to put up +five miles short of his stage at a little decent kind of an inn by +the roadside. + +I forthwith took possession of my bedchamber--got a good fire-- +order'd supper; and was thanking heaven it was no worse, when a +voiture arrived with a lady in it and her servant maid. + +As there was no other bed-chamber in the house, the hostess,-- +without much nicety, led them into mine, telling them, as she +usher'd them in, that there was nobody in it but an English +gentleman;--that there were two good beds in it, and a closet +within the room which held another. The accent in which she spoke +of this third bed, did not say much for it;--however, she said +there were three beds and but three people, and she durst say, the +gentleman would do anything to accommodate matters.--I left not the +lady a moment to make a conjecture about it--so instantly made a +declaration that I would do anything in my power. + +As this did not amount to an absolute surrender of my bed-chamber, +I still felt myself so much the proprietor, as to have a right to +do the honours of it;--so I desired the lady to sit down,--pressed +her into the warmest seat,--called for more wood,--desired the +hostess to enlarge the plan of the supper, and to favour us with +the very best wine. + +The lady had scarce warm'd herself five minutes at the fire, before +she began to turn her head back, and give a look at the beds; and +the oftener she cast her eyes that way, the more they return'd +perplexd;--I felt for her--and for myself: for in a few minutes, +what by her looks, and the case itself, I found myself as much +embarrassed as it was possible the lady could be herself. + +That the beds we were to lie in were in one and the same room, was +enough simply by itself to have excited all this;--but the position +of them, for they stood parallel, and so very close to each other +as only to allow space for a small wicker chair betwixt them, +rendered the affair still more oppressive to us;--they were fixed +up moreover near the fire; and the projection of the chimney on one +side, and a large beam which cross'd the room on the other, formed +a kind of recess for them that was no way favourable to the nicety +of our sensations: --if anything could have added to it, it was +that the two beds were both of them so very small, as to cut us off +from every idea of the lady and the maid lying together; which in +either of them, could it have been feasible, my lying beside them, +though a thing not to be wish'd, yet there was nothing in it so +terrible which the imagination might not have pass'd over without +torment. + +As for the little room within, it offer'd little or no consolation +to us: 'twas a damp, cold closet, with a half dismantled window- +shutter, and with a window which had neither glass nor oil paper in +it to keep out the tempest of the night. I did not endeavour to +stifle my cough when the lady gave a peep into it; so it reduced +the case in course to this alternative--That the lady should +sacrifice her health to her feelings, and take up with the closet +herself, and abandon the bed next mine to her maid,--or that the +girl should take the closet, &c., &c. + +The lady was a Piedmontese of about thirty, with a glow of health +in her cheeks. The maid was a Lyonoise of twenty, and as brisk and +lively a French girl as ever moved.--There were difficulties every +way,--and the obstacle of the stone in the road, which brought us +into the distress, great as it appeared whilst the peasants were +removing it, was but a pebble to what lay in our ways now.--I have +only to add, that it did not lessen the weight which hung upon our +spirits, that we were both too delicate to communicate what we felt +to each other upon the occasion. + +We sat down to supper; and had we not had more generous wine to it +than a little inn in Savoy could have furnish'd, our tongues had +been tied up, till necessity herself had set them at liberty;--but +the lady having a few bottles of Burgundy in her voiture, sent down +her fille de chambre for a couple of them; so that by the time +supper was over, and we were left alone, we felt ourselves inspired +with a strength of mind sufficient to talk, at least, without +reserve upon our situation. We turn'd it every way, and debated +and considered it in all kinds of lights in the course of a two +hours' negotiation; at the end of which the articles were settled +finally betwixt us, and stipulated for in form and manner of a +treaty of peace,--and I believe with as much religion and good +faith on both sides as in any treaty which has yet had the honour +of being handed down to posterity. + +They were as follow: - + +First, as the right of the bed-chamber is in Monsieur,--and he +thinking the bed next to the fire to be the warmest, he insists +upon the concession on the lady's side of taking up with it. + +Granted, on the part of Madame; with a proviso, That as the +curtains of that bed are of a flimsy transparent cotton, and appear +likewise too scanty to draw close, that the fille de chambre shall +fasten up the opening, either by corking pins, or needle and +thread, in such manner as shall be deem'd a sufficient barrier on +the side of Monsieur. + +2dly. It is required on the part of Madame, that Monsieur shall +lie the whole night through in his robe de chambre. + +Rejected: inasmuch as Monsieur is not worth a robe de chambre; he +having nothing in his portmanteau but six shirts and a black silk +pair of breeches. + +The mentioning the silk pair of breeches made an entire change of +the article,--for the breeches were accepted as an equivalent for +the robe de chambre; and so it was stipulated and agreed upon, that +I should lie in my black silk breeches all night. + +3dly. It was insisted upon and stipulated for by the lady, that +after Monsieur was got to bed, and the candle and fire +extinguished, that Monsieur should not speak one single word the +whole night. + +Granted; provided Monsieur's saying his prayers might not be deemed +an infraction of the treaty. + +There was but one point forgot in this treaty, and that was the +manner in which the lady and myself should be obliged to undress +and get to bed;--there was but one way of doing it, and that I +leave to the reader to devise; protesting as I do it, that if it is +not the most delicate in nature, 'tis the fault of his own +imagination,--against which this is not my first complaint. + +Now, when we were got to bed, whether it was the novelty of the +situation, or what it was, I know not; but so it was, I could not +shut my eyes; I tried this side, and that, and turn'd and turn'd +again, till a full hour after midnight; when Nature and patience +both wearing out,--O, my God! said I. + +- You have broke the treaty, Monsieur, said the lady, who had no +more slept than myself.--I begg'd a thousand pardons--but insisted +it was no more than an ejaculation. She maintained 'twas an entire +infraction of the treaty--I maintained it was provided for in the +clause of the third article. + +The lady would by no means give up her point, though she weaken'd +her barrier by it; for in the warmth of the dispute, I could hear +two or three corking pins fall out of the curtain to the ground. + +Upon my word and honour, Madame, said I,--stretching my arm out of +bed by way of asseveration. - + +(I was going to have added, that I would not have trespassed +against the remotest idea of decorum for the world); - + +But the fille de chambre hearing there were words between us, and +fearing that hostilities would ensue in course, had crept silently +out of her closet, and it being totally dark, had stolen so close +to our beds, that she had got herself into the narrow passage which +separated them, and had advanced so far up as to be in a line +betwixt her mistress and me: - + +So that when I stretch'd out my hand I caught hold of the fille de +chambre's - + + +Footnotes: + +{1} Nosegay. + +{2} Hackney coach. + +{3} Plate, napkin, knife, fork and spoon. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY *** + +This file should be named senjr10.txt or senjr10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, senjr11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, senjr10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: A Sentimental Journey + +Author: Laurence Sterne + +Release Date: February, 1997 [EBook #804] +[This file was first posted on February 12, 1997] +[Most recently updated: September 25, 2002] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1892 George Bell and Son edition by David Price, +email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines3"><br /><br /><br /></div> +<h1>A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY</h1> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines3"><br /><br /><br /></div> +<p>They order, said I, this matter better in France. - You have been +in France? said my gentleman, turning quick upon me, with the most civil +triumph in the world. - Strange! quoth I, debating the matter with myself, +That one and twenty miles sailing, for ’tis absolutely no further +from Dover to Calais, should give a man these rights: - I’ll look +into them: so, giving up the argument, - I went straight to my lodgings, +put up half a dozen shirts and a black pair of silk breeches, - “the +coat I have on,” said I, looking at the sleeve, “will do;” +- took a place in the Dover stage; and the packet sailing at nine the +next morning, - by three I had got sat down to my dinner upon a fricaseed +chicken, so incontestably in France, that had I died that night of an +indigestion, the whole world could not have suspended the effects of +the <i>droits d’aubaine</i>; - my shirts, and black pair of silk +breeches, - portmanteau and all, must have gone to the King of France; +- even the little picture which I have so long worn, and so often have +told thee, Eliza, I would carry with me into my grave, would have been +torn from my neck! - Ungenerous! to seize upon the wreck of an unwary +passenger, whom your subjects had beckoned to their coast! - By heaven! +Sire, it is not well done; and much does it grieve me, ’tis the +monarch of a people so civilized and courteous, and so renowned for +sentiment and fine feelings, that I have to reason with! -</p> +<p>But I have scarce set a foot in your dominions. -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When I had fished my dinner, and drank the King of France’s +health, to satisfy my mind that I bore him no spleen, but, on the contrary, +high honour for the humanity of his temper, - I rose up an inch taller +for the accommodation.</p> +<p>- No - said I - the Bourbon is by no means a cruel race: they may +be misled, like other people; but there is a mildness in their blood. +As I acknowledged this, I felt a suffusion of a finer kind upon my cheek +- more warm and friendly to man, than what Burgundy (at least of two +livres a bottle, which was such as I had been drinking) could have produced.</p> +<p>- Just God! said I, kicking my portmanteau aside, what is there in +this world’s goods which should sharpen our spirits, and make +so many kind-hearted brethren of us fall out so cruelly as we do by +the way?</p> +<p>When man is at peace with man, how much lighter than a feather is +the heaviest of metals in his hand! he pulls out his purse, and holding +it airily and uncompressed, looks round him, as if he sought for an +object to share it with. - In doing this, I felt every vessel in my +frame dilate, - the arteries beat all cheerily together, and every power +which sustained life, performed it with so little friction, that ’twould +have confounded the most <i>physical précieuse</i> in France; +with all her materialism, she could scarce have called me a machine. +-</p> +<p>I’m confident, said I to myself, I should have overset her +creed.</p> +<p>The accession of that idea carried nature, at that time, as high +as she could go; - I was at peace with the world before, and this finish’d +the treaty with myself. -</p> +<p>- Now, was I King of France, cried I - what a moment for an orphan +to have begg’d his father’s portmanteau of me!</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE MONK. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I had scarce uttered the words, when a poor monk of the order of +St. Francis came into the room to beg something for a his convent. +No man cares to have his virtues the sport of contingencies - or one +man may be generous, as another is puissant; - <i>sed non quoad hanc</i> +- or be it as it may, - for there is no regular reasoning upon the ebbs +and flows of our humours; they may depend upon the same causes, for +aught I know, which influence the tides themselves: ’twould oft +be no discredit to us, to suppose it was so: I’m sure at least +for myself, that in many a case I should be more highly satisfied, to +have it said by the world, “I had had an affair with the moon, +in which there was neither sin nor shame,” than have it pass altogether +as my own act and deed, wherein there was so much of both.</p> +<p>- But, be this as it may, - the moment I cast my eyes upon him, I +was predetermined not to give him a single sous; and, accordingly, I +put my purse into my pocket - buttoned it - set myself a little more +upon my centre, and advanced up gravely to him; there was something, +I fear, forbidding in my look: I have his figure this moment before +my eyes, and think there was that in it which deserved better.</p> +<p>The monk, as I judged by the break in his tonsure, a few scattered +white hairs upon his temples, being all that remained of it, might be +about seventy; - but from his eyes, and that sort of fire which was +in them, which seemed more temper’d by courtesy than years, could +be no more than sixty: - Truth might lie between - He was certainly +sixty-five; and the general air of his countenance, notwithstanding +something seem’d to have been planting-wrinkles in it before their +time, agreed to the account.</p> +<p>It was one of those heads which Guido has often painted, - mild, +pale - penetrating, free from all commonplace ideas of fat contented +ignorance looking downwards upon the earth; - it look’d forwards; +but look’d as if it look’d at something beyond this world. +- How one of his order came by it, heaven above, who let it fall upon +a monk’s shoulders best knows: but it would have suited a Bramin, +and had I met it upon the plains of Indostan, I had reverenced it.</p> +<p>The rest of his outline may be given in a few strokes; one might +put it into the hands of any one to design, for ’twas neither +elegant nor otherwise, but as character and expression made it so: it +was a thin, spare form, something above the common size, if it lost +not the distinction by a bend forward in the figure, - but it was the +attitude of Intreaty; and, as it now stands presented to my imagination, +it gained more than it lost by it.</p> +<p>When he had entered the room three paces, he stood still; and laying +his left hand upon his breast (a slender white staff with which he journey’d +being in his right) - when I had got close up to him, he introduced +himself with the little story of the wants of his convent, and the poverty +of his order; - and did it with so simple a grace, - and such an air +of deprecation was there in the whole cast of his look and figure, - +I was bewitch’d not to have been struck with it.</p> +<p>- A better reason was, I had predetermined not to give him a single +sous.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE MONK. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>- ’Tis very true, said I, replying to a cast upwards with his +eyes, with which he had concluded his address; - ’tis very true, +- and heaven be their resource who have no other but the charity of +the world, the stock of which, I fear, is no way sufficient for the +many <i>great claims</i> which are hourly made upon it.</p> +<p>As I pronounced the words <i>great claims</i>, he gave a slight glance +with his eye downwards upon the sleeve of his tunic: - I felt the full +force of the appeal - I acknowledge it, said I: - a coarse habit, and +that but once in three years with meagre diet, - are no great matters; +and the true point of pity is, as they can be earn’d in the world +with so little industry, that your order should wish to procure them +by pressing upon a fund which is the property of the lame, the blind, +the aged and the infirm; - the captive who lies down counting over and +over again the days of his afflictions, languishes also for his share +of it; and had you been of the <i>order of mercy</i>, instead of the +order of St. Francis, poor as I am, continued I, pointing at my portmanteau, +full cheerfully should it have been open’d to you, for the ransom +of the unfortunate. - The monk made me a bow. - But of all others, resumed +I, the unfortunate of our own country, surely, have the first rights; +and I have left thousands in distress upon our own shore. - The monk +gave a cordial wave with his head, - as much as to say, No doubt there +is misery enough in every corner of the world, as well as within our +convent - But we distinguish, said I, laying my hand upon the sleeve +of his tunic, in return for his appeal - we distinguish, my good father! +betwixt those who wish only to eat the bread of their own labour - and +those who eat the bread of other people’s, and have no other plan +in life, but to get through it in sloth and ignorance, <i>for the love +of God</i>.</p> +<p>The poor Franciscan made no reply: a hectic of a moment pass’d +across his cheek, but could not tarry - Nature seemed to have done with +her resentments in him; - he showed none: - but letting his staff fall +within his arms, he pressed both his hands with resignation upon his +breast, and retired.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE MONK. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>My heart smote me the moment he shut the door - Psha! said I, with +an air of carelessness, three several times - but it would not do: every +ungracious syllable I had utter’d crowded back into my imagination: +I reflected, I had no right over the poor Franciscan, but to deny him; +and that the punishment of that was enough to the disappointed, without +the addition of unkind language. - I consider’d his gray hairs +- his courteous figure seem’d to re-enter and gently ask me what +injury he had done me? - and why I could use him thus? - I would have +given twenty livres for an advocate. - I have behaved very ill, said +I within myself; but I have only just set out upon my travels; and shall +learn better manners as I get along.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE DESOBLIGEANT. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When a man is discontented with himself, it has one advantage however, +that it puts him into an excellent frame of mind for making a bargain. +Now there being no travelling through France and Italy without a chaise, +- and nature generally prompting us to the thing we are fittest for, +I walk’d out into the coach-yard to buy or hire something of that +kind to my purpose: an old <i>désobligeant</i> in the furthest +corner of the court, hit my fancy at first sight, so I instantly got +into it, and finding it in tolerable harmony with my feelings, I ordered +the waiter to call Monsieur Dessein, the master of the hotel: - but +Monsieur Dessein being gone to vespers, and not caring to face the Franciscan, +whom I saw on the opposite side of the court, in conference with a lady +just arrived at the inn, - I drew the taffeta curtain betwixt us, and +being determined to write my journey, I took out my pen and ink and +wrote the preface to it in the <i>désobligeant.</i></p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>PREFACE. IN THE DESOBLIGEANT.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>It must have been observed by many a peripatetic philosopher, That +nature has set up by her own unquestionable authority certain boundaries +and fences to circumscribe the discontent of man; she has effected her +purpose in the quietest and easiest manner by laying him under almost +insuperable obligations to work out his ease, and to sustain his sufferings +at home. It is there only that she has provided him with the most +suitable objects to partake of his happiness, and bear a part of that +burden which in all countries and ages has ever been too heavy for one +pair of shoulders. ’Tis true, we are endued with an imperfect +power of spreading our happiness sometimes beyond <i>her</i> limits, +but ’tis so ordered, that, from the want of languages, connections, +and dependencies, and from the difference in education, customs, and +habits, we lie under so many impediments in communicating our sensations +out of our own sphere, as often amount to a total impossibility.</p> +<p>It will always follow from hence, that the balance of sentimental +commerce is always against the expatriated adventurer: he must buy what +he has little occasion for, at their own price; - his conversation will +seldom be taken in exchange for theirs without a large discount, - and +this, by the by, eternally driving him into the hands of more equitable +brokers, for such conversation as he can find, it requires no great +spirit of divination to guess at his party -</p> +<p>This brings me to my point; and naturally leads me (if the see-saw +of this <i>désobligeant</i> will but let me get on) into the +efficient as well as final causes of travelling -</p> +<p>Your idle people that leave their native country, and go abroad for +some reason or reasons which may be derived from one of these general +causes:-</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Infirmity of body,<br />Imbecility of mind, or<br />Inevitable necessity.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The first two include all those who travel by land or by water, labouring +with pride, curiosity, vanity, or spleen, subdivided and combined <i>ad +infinitum</i>.</p> +<p>The third class includes the whole army of peregrine martyrs; more +especially those travellers who set out upon their travels with the +benefit of the clergy, either as delinquents travelling under the direction +of governors recommended by the magistrate; - or young gentlemen transported +by the cruelty of parents and guardians, and travelling under the direction +of governors recommended by Oxford, Aberdeen, and Glasgow.</p> +<p>There is a fourth class, but their number is so small that they would +not deserve a distinction, were it not necessary in a work of this nature +to observe the greatest precision and nicety, to avoid a confusion of +character. And these men I speak of, are such as cross the seas +and sojourn in a land of strangers, with a view of saving money for +various reasons and upon various pretences: but as they might also save +themselves and others a great deal of unnecessary trouble by saving +their money at home, - and as their reasons for travelling are the least +complex of any other species of emigrants, I shall distinguish these +gentlemen by the name of</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Simple Travellers.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Thus the whole circle of travellers may be reduced to the following +<i>heads</i>:-</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Idle Travellers,<br />Inquisitive Travellers,<br />Lying Travellers,<br />Proud +Travellers,<br />Vain Travellers,<br />Splenetic Travellers.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Then follow:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The Travellers of Necessity,<br />The Delinquent and Felonious Traveller,<br />The +Unfortunate and Innocent Traveller,<br />The Simple Traveller,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>And last of all (if you please) The Sentimental Traveller, (meaning +thereby myself) who have travell’d, and of which I am now sitting +down to give an account, - as much out of <i>Necessity</i>, and the +<i>besoin de Voyager</i>, as any one in the class.</p> +<p>I am well aware, at the same time, as both my travels and observations +will be altogether of a different cast from any of my forerunners, that +I might have insisted upon a whole nitch entirely to myself; - but I +should break in upon the confines of the <i>Vain</i> Traveller, in wishing +to draw attention towards me, till I have some better grounds for it +than the mere <i>Novelty of my Vehicle.</i></p> +<p>It is sufficient for my reader, if he has been a traveller himself, +that with study and reflection hereupon he may be able to determine +his own place and rank in the catalogue; - it will be one step towards +knowing himself; as it is great odds but he retains some tincture and +resemblance, of what he imbibed or carried out, to the present hour.</p> +<p>The man who first transplanted the grape of Burgundy to the Cape +of Good Hope (observe he was a Dutchman) never dreamt of drinking the +same wine at the Cape, that the same grape produced upon the French +mountains, - he was too phlegmatic for that - but undoubtedly he expected +to drink some sort of vinous liquor; but whether good or bad, or indifferent, +- he knew enough of this world to know, that it did not depend upon +his choice, but that what is generally called <i>choice</i>, was to +decide his success: however, he hoped for the best; and in these hopes, +by an intemperate confidence in the fortitude of his head, and the depth +of his discretion, <i>Mynheer</i> might possibly oversee both in his +new vineyard; and by discovering his nakedness, become a laughing stock +to his people.</p> +<p>Even so it fares with the Poor Traveller, sailing and posting through +the politer kingdoms of the globe, in pursuit of knowledge and improvements.</p> +<p>Knowledge and improvements are to be got by sailing and posting for +that purpose; but whether useful knowledge and real improvements is +all a lottery; - and even where the adventurer is successful, the acquired +stock must be used with caution and sobriety, to turn to any profit: +- but, as the chances run prodigiously the other way, both as to the +acquisition and application, I am of opinion, That a man would act as +wisely, if he could prevail upon himself to live contented without foreign +knowledge or foreign improvements, especially if he lives in a country +that has no absolute want of either; - and indeed, much grief of heart +has it oft and many a time cost me, when I have observed how many a +foul step the Inquisitive Traveller has measured to see sights and look +into discoveries; all which, as Sancho Panza said to Don Quixote, they +might have seen dry-shod at home. It is an age so full of light, +that there is scarce a country or corner in Europe whose beams are not +crossed and interchanged with others. - Knowledge in most of its branches, +and in most affairs, is like music in an Italian street, whereof those +may partake who pay nothing. - But there is no nation under heaven - +and God is my record (before whose tribunal I must one day come and +give an account of this work) - that I do not speak it vauntingly, - +but there is no nation under heaven abounding with more variety of learning, +- where the sciences may be more fitly woo’d, or more surely won, +than here, - where art is encouraged, and will so soon rise high, - +where Nature (take her altogether) has so little to answer for, - and, +to close all, where there is more wit and variety of character to feed +the mind with: - Where then, my dear countrymen, are you going? -</p> +<p>We are only looking at this chaise, said they. - Your most obedient +servant, said I, skipping out of it, and pulling off my hat. - We were +wondering, said one of them, who, I found was an <i>Inquisitive Traveller</i>, +- what could occasion its motion. - ’Twas the agitation, said +I, coolly, of writing a preface. - I never heard, said the other, who +was a <i>Simple Traveller</i>, of a preface wrote in a <i>désobligeant</i>. +- It would have been better, said I, in a <i>vis-a-vis.</i></p> +<p><i>- As an Englishman does not travel to see Englishmen</i>, I retired +to my room.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I perceived that something darken’d the passage more than myself, +as I stepp’d along it to my room; it was effectually Mons. Dessein, +the master of the hôtel, who had just returned from vespers, and +with his hat under his arm, was most complaisantly following me, to +put me in mind of my wants. I had wrote myself pretty well out +of conceit with the <i>désobligeant</i>, and Mons. Dessein speaking +of it, with a shrug, as if it would no way suit me, it immediately struck +my fancy that it belong’d to some <i>Innocent Traveller</i>, who, +on his return home, had left it to Mons. Dessein’s honour to make +the most of. Four months had elapsed since it had finished its +career of Europe in the corner of Mons. Dessein’s coach-yard; +and having sallied out from thence but a vampt-up business at the first, +though it had been twice taken to pieces on Mount Sennis, it had not +profited much by its adventures, - but by none so little as the standing +so many months unpitied in the corner of Mons. Dessein’s coach-yard. +Much indeed was not to be said for it, - but something might; - and +when a few words will rescue misery out of her distress, I hate the +man who can be a churl of them.</p> +<p>- Now was I the master of this hôtel, said I, laying the point +of my fore-finger on Mons. Dessein’s breast, I would inevitably +make a point of getting rid of this unfortunate <i>désobligeant</i>; +- it stands swinging reproaches at you every time you pass by it.</p> +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! said Mons. Dessein, - I have no interest - Except +the interest, said I, which men of a certain turn of mind take, Mons. +Dessein, in their own sensations, - I’m persuaded, to a man who +feels for others as well as for himself, every rainy night, disguise +it as you will, must cast a damp upon your spirits: - You suffer, Mons. +Dessein, as much as the machine -</p> +<p>I have always observed, when there is as much <i>sour</i> as <i>sweet</i> +in a compliment, that an Englishman is eternally at a loss within himself, +whether to take it, or let it alone: a Frenchman never is: Mons. Dessein +made me a bow.</p> +<p><i>C’est bien vrai</i>, said he. - But in this case I should +only exchange one disquietude for another, and with loss: figure to +yourself, my dear Sir, that in giving you a chaise which would fall +to pieces before you had got half-way to Paris, - figure to yourself +how much I should suffer, in giving an ill impression of myself to a +man of honour, and lying at the mercy, as I must do, <i>d’un homme +d’esprit</i>.</p> +<p>The dose was made up exactly after my own prescription; so I could +not help tasting it, - and, returning Mons. Dessein his bow, without +more casuistry we walk’d together towards his Remise, to take +a view of his magazine of chaises.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>IN THE STREET. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>It must needs be a hostile kind of a world, when the buyer (if it +be but of a sorry post-chaise) cannot go forth with the seller thereof +into the street to terminate the difference betwixt them, but he instantly +falls into the same frame of mind, and views his conventionist with +the same sort of eye, as if he was going along with him to Hyde-park +corner to fight a duel. For my own part, being but a poor swordsman, +and no way a match for Monsieur Dessein, I felt the rotation of all +the movements within me, to which the situation is incident; - I looked +at Monsieur Dessein through and through - eyed him as he walk’d +along in profile, - then, <i>en face</i>; - thought like a Jew, - then +a Turk, - disliked his wig, - cursed him by my gods, - wished him at +the devil. -</p> +<p>- And is all this to be lighted up in the heart for a beggarly account +of three or four louis d’ors, which is the most I can be overreached +in? - Base passion! said I, turning myself about, as a man naturally +does upon a sudden reverse of sentiment, - base, ungentle passion! thy +hand is against every man, and every man’s hand against thee. +- Heaven forbid! said she, raising her hand up to her forehead, for +I had turned full in front upon the lady whom I had seen in conference +with the monk: - she had followed us unperceived. - Heaven forbid, indeed! +said I, offering her my own; - she had a black pair of silk gloves, +open only at the thumb and two fore-fingers, so accepted it without +reserve, - and I led her up to the door of the Remise.</p> +<p>Monsieur Dessein had <i>diabled</i> the key above fifty times before +he had found out he had come with a wrong one in his hand: we were as +impatient as himself to have it opened; and so attentive to the obstacle +that I continued holding her hand almost without knowing it: so that +Monsieur Dessein left us together with her hand in mine, and with our +faces turned towards the door of the Remise, and said he would be back +in five minutes.</p> +<p>Now a colloquy of five minutes, in such a situation, is worth one +of as many ages, with your faces turned towards the street: in the latter +case, ’tis drawn from the objects and occurrences without; - when +your eyes are fixed upon a dead blank, - you draw purely from yourselves. +A silence of a single moment upon Mons. Dessein’s leaving us, +had been fatal to the situation - she had infallibly turned about; - +so I begun the conversation instantly. -</p> +<p>- But what were the temptations (as I write not to apologize for +the weaknesses of my heart in this tour, - but to give an account of +them) - shall be described with the same simplicity with which I felt +them.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When I told the reader that I did not care to get out of the <i>désobligeant</i>, +because I saw the monk in close conference with a lady just arrived +at the inn - I told him the truth, - but I did not tell him the whole +truth; for I was as full as much restrained by the appearance and figure +of the lady he was talking to. Suspicion crossed my brain and +said, he was telling her what had passed: something jarred upon it within +me, - I wished him at his convent.</p> +<p>When the heart flies out before the understanding, it saves the judgment +a world of pains. - I was certain she was of a better order of beings; +- however, I thought no more of her, but went on and wrote my preface.</p> +<p>The impression returned upon my encounter with her in the street; +a guarded frankness with which she gave me her hand, showed, I thought, +her good education and her good sense; and as I led her on, I felt a +pleasurable ductility about her, which spread a calmness over all my +spirits -</p> +<p>- Good God! how a man might lead such a creature as this round the +world with him! -</p> +<p>I had not yet seen her face - ’twas not material: for the drawing +was instantly set about, and long before we had got to the door of the +Remise, <i>Fancy</i> had finished the whole head, and pleased herself +as much with its fitting her goddess, as if she had dived into the Tiber +for it; - but thou art a seduced, and a seducing slut; and albeit thou +cheatest us seven times a day with thy pictures and images, yet with +so many charms dost thou do it, and thou deckest out thy pictures in +the shapes of so many angels of light, ’tis a shame to break with +thee.</p> +<p>When we had got to the door of the Remise, she withdrew her hand +from across her forehead, and let me see the original: - it was a face +of about six-and-twenty, - of a clear transparent brown, simply set +off without rouge or powder; - it was not critically handsome, but there +was that in it, which, in the frame of mind I was in, attached me much +more to it, - it was interesting: I fancied it wore the characters of +a widow’d look, and in that state of its declension, which had +passed the two first paroxysms of sorrow, and was quietly beginning +to reconcile itself to its loss; - but a thousand other distresses might +have traced the same lines; I wish’d to know what they had been +- and was ready to inquire, (had the same <i>bon ton</i> of conversation +permitted, as in the days of Esdras) - “<i>What ailelh thee? and +why art thou disquieted? and why is thy understanding troubled</i>?” +- In a word, I felt benevolence for her; and resolv’d some way +or other to throw in my mite of courtesy, - if not of service.</p> +<p>Such were my temptations; - and in this disposition to give way to +them, was I left alone with the lady with her hand in mine, and with +our faces both turned closer to the door of the Remise than what was +absolutely necessary.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>This certainly, fair lady, said I, raising her hand up little lightly +as I began, must be one of Fortune’s whimsical doings; to take +two utter strangers by their hands, - of different sexes, and perhaps +from different corners of the globe, and in one moment place them together +in such a cordial situation as Friendship herself could scarce have +achieved for them, had she projected it for a month.</p> +<p>- And your reflection upon it shows how much, Monsieur, she has embarrassed +you by the adventure -</p> +<p>When the situation is what we would wish, nothing is so ill-timed +as to hint at the circumstances which make it so: you thank Fortune, +continued she - you had reason - the heart knew it, and was satisfied; +and who but an English philosopher would have sent notice of it to the +brain to reverse the judgment?</p> +<p>In saying this, she disengaged her hand with a look which I thought +a sufficient commentary upon the text.</p> +<p>It is a miserable picture which I am going to give of the weakness +of my heart, by owning, that it suffered a pain, which worthier occasions +could not have inflicted. - I was mortified with the loss of her hand, +and the manner in which I had lost it carried neither oil nor wine to +the wound: I never felt the pain of a sheepish inferiority so miserably +in my life.</p> +<p>The triumphs of a true feminine heart are short upon these discomfitures. +In a very few seconds she laid her hand upon the cuff of my coat, in +order to finish her reply; so, some way or other, God knows how, I regained +my situation.</p> +<p>- She had nothing to add.</p> +<p>I forthwith began to model a different conversation for the lady, +thinking from the spirit as well as moral of this, that I had been mistaken +in her character; but upon turning her face towards me, the spirit which +had animated the reply was fled, - the muscles relaxed, and I beheld +the same unprotected look of distress which first won me to her interest: +- melancholy! to see such sprightliness the prey of sorrow, - I pitied +her from my soul; and though it may seem ridiculous enough to a torpid +heart, - I could have taken her into my arms, and cherished her, though +it was in the open street, without brushing.</p> +<p>The pulsations of the arteries along my fingers pressing across hers, +told her what was passing within me: she looked down - a silence of +some moments followed.</p> +<p>I fear in this interval, I must have made some slight efforts towards +a closer compression of her hand, from a subtle sensation I felt in +the palm of my own, - not as if she was going to withdraw hers - but +as if she thought about it; - and I had infallibly lost it a second +time, had not instinct more than reason directed me to the last resource +in these dangers, - to hold it loosely, and in a manner as if I was +every moment going to release it, of myself; so she let it continue, +till Monsieur Dessein returned with the key; and in the mean time I +set myself to consider how I should undo the ill impressions which the +poor monk’s story, in case he had told it her, must have planted +in her breast against me.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE SNUFF BOX. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The good old monk was within six paces of us, as the idea of him +crossed my mind; and was advancing towards us a little out of the line, +as if uncertain whether he should break in upon us or no. - He stopp’d, +however, as soon as he came up to us, with a world of frankness: and +having a horn snuff box in his hand, he presented it open to me. - You +shall taste mine - said I, pulling out my box (which was a small tortoise +one) and putting it into his hand. - ’Tis most excellent, said +the monk. Then do me the favour, I replied, to accept of the box +and all, and when you take a pinch out of it, sometimes recollect it +was the peace offering of a man who once used you unkindly, but not +from his heart.</p> +<p>The poor monk blush’d as red as scarlet. <i>Mon Dieu</i>! +said he, pressing his hands together - you never used me unkindly. - +I should think, said the lady, he is not likely. I blush’d +in my turn; but from what movements, I leave to the few who feel, to +analyze. - Excuse me, Madame, replied I, - I treated him most unkindly; +and from no provocations. - ’Tis impossible, said the lady. - +My God! cried the monk, with a warmth of asseveration which seem’d +not to belong to him - the fault was in me, and in the indiscretion +of my zeal. - The lady opposed it, and I joined with her in maintaining +it was impossible, that a spirit so regulated as his, could give offence +to any.</p> +<p>I knew not that contention could be rendered so sweet and pleasurable +a thing to the nerves as I then felt it. - We remained silent, without +any sensation of that foolish pain which takes place, when, in such +a circle, you look for ten minutes in one another’s faces without +saying a word. Whilst this lasted, the monk rubbed his horn box +upon the sleeve of his tunic; and as soon as it had acquired a little +air of brightness by the friction - he made me a low bow, and said, +’twas too late to say whether it was the weakness or goodness +of our tempers which had involved us in this contest - but be it as +it would, - he begg’d we might exchange boxes. - In saying this, +he presented his to me with one hand, as he took mine from me in the +other, and having kissed it, - with a stream of good nature in his eyes, +he put it into his bosom, - and took his leave.</p> +<p>I guard this box, as I would the instrumental parts of my religion, +to help my mind on to something better: in truth, I seldom go abroad +without it; and oft and many a time have I called up by it the courteous +spirit of its owner to regulate my own, in the justlings of the world: +they had found full employment for his, as I learnt from his story, +till about the forty-fifth year of his age, when upon some military +services ill requited, and meeting at the same time with a disappointment +in the tenderest of passions, he abandoned the sword and the sex together, +and took sanctuary not so much in his convent as in himself.</p> +<p>I feel a damp upon my spirits, as I am going to add, that in my last +return through Calais, upon enquiring after Father Lorenzo, I heard +he had been dead near three months, and was buried, not in his convent, +but, according to his desire, in a little cemetery belonging to it, +about two leagues off: I had a strong desire to see where they had laid +him, - when, upon pulling out his little horn box, as I sat by his grave, +and plucking up a nettle or two at the head of it, which had no business +to grow there, they all struck together so forcibly upon my affections, +that I burst into a flood of tears: - but I am as weak as a woman; and +I beg the world not to smile, but to pity me.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE DOOR. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I had never quitted the lady’s hand all this time, and had +held it so long, that it would have been indecent to have let it go, +without first pressing it to my lips: the blood and spirits, which had +suffered a revulsion from her, crowded back to her as I did it.</p> +<p>Now the two travellers, who had spoke to me in the coach-yard, happening +at that crisis to be passing by, and observing our communications, naturally +took it into their heads that we must be <i>man and wife</i> at least; +so, stopping as soon as they came up to the door of the Remise, the +one of them who was the Inquisitive Traveller, ask’d us, if we +set out for Paris the next morning? - I could only answer for myself, +I said; and the lady added, she was for Amiens. - We dined there yesterday, +said the Simple Traveller. - You go directly through the town, added +the other, in your road to Paris. I was going to return a thousand +thanks for the intelligence, <i>that Amiens was in</i> <i>the road to +Paris</i>, but, upon pulling out my poor monk’s little horn box +to take a pinch of snuff, I made them a quiet bow, and wishing them +a good passage to Dover. - They left us alone. -</p> +<p>- Now where would be the harm, said I to myself, if I were to beg +of this distressed lady to accept of half of my chaise? - and what mighty +mischief could ensue?</p> +<p>Every dirty passion, and bad propensity in my nature took the alarm, +as I stated the proposition. - It will oblige you to have a third horse, +said Avarice, which will put twenty livres out of your pocket; - You +know not what she is, said Caution; - or what scrapes the affair may +draw you into, whisper’d Cowardice. -</p> +<p>Depend upon it, Yorick! said Discretion, ’twill be said you +went off with a mistress, and came by assignation to Calais for that +purpose; -</p> +<p>- You can never after, cried Hypocrisy aloud, show your face in the +world; - or rise, quoth Meanness, in the church; - or be any thing in +it, said Pride, but a lousy prebendary.</p> +<p>But ’tis a civil thing, said I; - and as I generally act from +the first impulse, and therefore seldom listen to these cabals, which +serve no purpose, that I know of, but to encompass the heart with adamant +- I turned instantly about to the lady. -</p> +<p>- But she had glided off unperceived, as the cause was pleading, +and had made ten or a dozen paces down the street, by the time I had +made the determination; so I set off after her with a long stride, to +make her the proposal, with the best address I was master of: but observing +she walk’d with her cheek half resting upon the palm of her hand, +- with the slow short-measur’d step of thoughtfulness, - and with +her eyes, as she went step by step, fixed upon the ground, it struck +me she was trying the same cause herself. - God help her! said I, she +has some mother-in-law, or tartufish aunt, or nonsensical old woman, +to consult upon the occasion, as well as myself: so not caring to interrupt +the process, and deeming it more gallant to take her at discretion than +by surprise, I faced about and took a short turn or two before the door +of the Remise, whilst she walk’d musing on one side.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>IN THE STREET. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Having, on the first sight of the lady, settled the affair in my +fancy “that she was of the better order of beings;” - and +then laid it down as a second axiom, as indisputable as the first, that +she was a widow, and wore a character of distress, - I went no further; +I got ground enough for the situation which pleased me; - and had she +remained close beside my elbow till midnight, I should have held true +to my system, and considered her only under that general idea.</p> +<p>She had scarce got twenty paces distant from me, ere something within +me called out for a more particular enquiry; - it brought on the idea +of a further separation: - I might possibly never see her more: - The +heart is for saving what it can; and I wanted the traces through which +my wishes might find their way to her, in case I should never rejoin +her myself; in a word, I wished to know her name, - her family’s +- her condition; and as I knew the place to which she was going, I wanted +to know from whence she came: but there was no coming at all this intelligence; +a hundred little delicacies stood in the way. I form’d a +score different plans. - There was no such thing as a man’s asking +her directly; - the thing was impossible.</p> +<p>A little French <i>débonnaire</i> captain, who came dancing +down the street, showed me it was the easiest thing in the world: for, +popping in betwixt us, just as the lady was returning back to the door +of the Remise, he introduced himself to my acquaintance, and before +he had well got announced, begg’d I would do him the honour to +present him to the lady. - I had not been presented myself; - so turning +about to her, he did it just as well, by asking her if she had come +from Paris? No: she was going that route, she said. - <i>Vous +n’êtes pas de Londres</i>? - She was not, she replied. - +Then Madame must have come through Flanders. - <i>Apparemment vous êtes +Flammande</i>? said the French captain. - The lady answered, she was. +- <i>Peut être de Lisle</i>? added he. - She said, she was not +of Lisle. - Nor Arras? - nor Cambray? - nor Ghent? - nor Brussels? - +She answered, she was of Brussels.</p> +<p>He had had the honour, he said, to be at the bombardment of it last +war; - that it was finely situated, <i>pour cela</i>, - and full of +noblesse when the Imperialists were driven out by the French (the lady +made a slight courtesy) - so giving her an account of the affair, and +of the share he had had in it, - he begg’d the honour to know +her name, - so made his bow.</p> +<p>- <i>Et Madame a son Mari</i>? - said he, looking back when he had +made two steps, - and, without staying for an answer - danced down the +street.</p> +<p>Had I served seven years apprenticeship to good breeding, I could +not have done as much.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>As the little French captain left us, Mons. Dessein came up with +the key of the Remise in his hand, and forthwith let us into his magazine +of chaises.</p> +<p>The first object which caught my eye, as Mons. Dessein open’d +the door of the Remise, was another old tatter’d <i>désobligeant</i>; +and notwithstanding it was the exact picture of that which had hit my +fancy so much in the coach-yard but an hour before, - the very sight +of it stirr’d up a disagreeable sensation within me now; and I +thought ’twas a churlish beast into whose heart the idea could +first enter, to construct such a machine; nor had I much more charity +for the man who could think of using it.</p> +<p>I observed the lady was as little taken with it as myself: so Mons. +Dessein led us on to a couple of chaises which stood abreast, telling +us, as he recommended them, that they had been purchased by my lord +A. and B. to go the grand tour, but had gone no further than Paris, +so were in all respects as good as new. - They were too good; - so I +pass’d on to a third, which stood behind, and forthwith begun +to chaffer for the price. - But ’twill scarce hold two, said I, +opening the door and getting in. - Have the goodness, Madame, said Mons. +Dessein, offering his arm, to step in. - The lady hesitated half a second, +and stepped in; and the waiter that moment beckoning to speak to Mon. +Dessein, he shut the door of the chaise upon us, and left us.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p><i>C’est bien comique</i>, ’tis very droll, said the +lady, smiling, from the reflection that this was the second time we +a had been left together by a parcel of nonsensical contingencies, - +<i>c’est bien comique</i>, said she. -</p> +<p>- There wants nothing, said I, to make it so but the comic use which +the gallantry of a Frenchman would put it to, - to make love the first +moment, and an offer of his person the second.</p> +<p>’Tis their <i>fort</i>, replied the lady.</p> +<p>It is supposed so at least; - and how it has come to pass, continued +I, I know not; but they have certainly got the credit of understanding +more of love, and making it better than any other nation upon earth; +but, for my own part, I think them arrant bunglers, and in truth the +worst set of marksmen that ever tried Cupid’s patience.</p> +<p>- To think of making love by <i>sentiments</i>!</p> +<p>I should as soon think of making a genteel suit of clothes out of +remnants: - and to do it - pop - at first sight, by declaration - is +submitting the offer, and themselves with it, to be sifted with all +their <i>pours</i> and <i>contres</i>, by an unheated mind.</p> +<p>The lady attended as if she expected I should go on.</p> +<p>Consider then, Madame, continued I, laying my hand upon hers:-</p> +<p>That grave people hate love for the name’s sake; -</p> +<p>That selfish people hate it for their own; -</p> +<p>Hypocrites for heaven’s; -</p> +<p>And that all of us, both old and young, being ten times worse frightened +than hurt by the very <i>report</i>, - what a want of knowledge in this +branch of commence a man betrays, whoever lets the word come out of +his lips, till an hour or two, at least, after the time that his silence +upon it becomes tormenting. A course of small, quiet attentions, +not so pointed as to alarm, - nor so vague as to be misunderstood - +with now and then a look of kindness, and little or nothing said upon +it, - leaves nature for your mistress, and she fashions it to her mind. +-</p> +<p>Then I solemnly declare, said the lady, blushing, you have been making +love to me all this while.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE REMISE. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Monsieur Dessein came back to let us out of the chaise, and acquaint +the lady, the count de L-, her brother, was just arrived at the hotel. +Though I had infinite good will for the lady, I cannot say that I rejoiced +in my heart at the event - and could not help telling her so; - for +it is fatal to a proposal, Madame, said I, that I was going to make +to you -</p> +<p>- You need not tell me what the proposal was, said she, laying her +hand upon both mine, as she interrupted me. - A man my good Sir, has +seldom an offer of kindness to make to a woman, but she has a presentiment +of it some moments before. -</p> +<p>Nature arms her with it, said I, for immediate preservation. - But +I think, said she, looking in my face, I had no evil to apprehend, - +and, to deal frankly with you, had determined to accept it. - If I had +- (she stopped a moment) - I believe your good will would have drawn +a story from me, which would have made pity the only dangerous thing +in the journey.</p> +<p>In saying this, she suffered me to kiss her hand twice, and with +a look of sensibility mixed with concern, she got out of the chaise, +- and bid adieu.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>IN THE STREET. CALAIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I never finished a twelve guinea bargain so expeditiously in my life: +my time seemed heavy, upon the loss of the lady, and knowing every moment +of it would be as two, till I put myself into motion, - I ordered post +horses directly, and walked towards the hotel.</p> +<p>Lord! said I, hearing the town clock strike four, and recollecting +that I had been little more than a single hour in Calais, -</p> +<p>- What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this little +span of life by him who interests his heart in every thing, and who, +having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out +to him as he journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he can <i>fairly</i> +lay his hands on!</p> +<p>- If this won’t turn out something, - another will; - no matter, +- ’tis an assay upon human nature - I get my labour for my pains, +- ’tis enough; - the pleasure of the experiment has kept my senses +and the best part of my blood awake, and laid the gross to sleep.</p> +<p>I pity the man who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and cry, ’Tis +all barren; - and so it is: and so is all the world to him who will +not cultivate the fruits it offers. I declare, said I, clapping +my hands cheerily together, that were I in a desert, I would find out +wherewith in it to call forth my affections: - if I could not do better, +I would fasten them upon some sweet myrtle, or seek some melancholy +cypress to connect myself to; - I would court their shade, and greet +them kindly for their protection. - I would cut my name upon them, and +swear they were the loveliest trees throughout the desert: if their +leaves wither’d, I would teach myself to mourn; and, when they +rejoiced, I would rejoice along with them.</p> +<p>The learned Smelfungus travelled from Boulogne to Paris, - from Paris +to Rome, - and so on; - but he set out with the spleen and jaundice, +and every object he pass’d by was discoloured or distorted. - +He wrote an account of them, but ’twas nothing but the account +of his miserable feelings.</p> +<p>I met Smelfungus in the grand portico of the Pantheon: - he was just +coming out of it. - ’<i>Tis nothing but a huge cockpit</i>, said +he: - I wish you had said nothing worse of the Venus of Medicis, replied +I; - for in passing through Florence, I had heard he had fallen foul +upon the goddess, and used her worse than a common strumpet, without +the least provocation in nature.</p> +<p>I popp’d upon Smelfungus again at Turin, in his return home; +and a sad tale of sorrowful adventures had he to tell, “wherein +he spoke of moving accidents by flood and field, and of the cannibals +that each other eat: the Anthropophagi:” - he had been flayed +alive, and bedevil’d, and used worse than St. Bartholomew, at +every stage he had come at. -</p> +<p>- I’ll tell it, cried Smelfungus, to the world. You had +better tell it, said I, to your physician.</p> +<p>Mundungus, with an immense fortune, made the whole tour; going on +from Rome to Naples, - from Naples to Venice, - from Venice to Vienna, +- to Dresden, to Berlin, without one generous connection or pleasurable +anecdote to tell of; but he had travell’d straight on, looking +neither to his right hand nor his left, lest Love or Pity should seduce +him out of his road.</p> +<p>Peace be to them! if it is to be found; but heaven itself, were it +possible to get there with such tempers, would want objects to give +it; every gentle spirit would come flying upon the wings of Love to +hail their arrival. - Nothing would the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus +hear of, but fresh anthems of joy, fresh raptures of love, and fresh +congratulations of their common felicity. - I heartily pity them; they +have brought up no faculties for this work; and, were the happiest mansion +in heaven to be allotted to Smelfungus and Mundungus, they would be +so far from being happy, that the souls of Smelfungus and Mundungus +would do penance there to all eternity!</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I had once lost my portmanteau from behind my chaise, and twice got +out in the rain, and one of the times up to the knees in dirt, to help +the postilion to tie it on, without being able to find out what was +wanting. - Nor was it till I got to Montreuil, upon the landlord’s +asking me if I wanted not a servant, that it occurred to me, that that +was the very thing.</p> +<p>A servant! That I do most sadly, quoth I. - Because, Monsieur, +said the landlord, there is a clever young fellow, who would be very +proud of the honour to serve an Englishman. - But why an English one, +more than any other? - They are so generous, said the landlord. - I’ll +be shot if this is not a livre out of my pocket, quoth I to myself, +this very night. - But they have wherewithal to be so, Monsieur, added +he. - Set down one livre more for that, quoth I. - It was but last night, +said the landlord, <i>qu’un milord Anglois présentoit un +écu à la fille de chambre. - Tant pis pour Mademoiselle +Janatone</i>, said I.</p> +<p>Now Janatone, being the landlord’s daughter, and the landlord +supposing I was young in French, took the liberty to inform me, I should +not have said <i>tant pis</i> - but, <i>tant mieux</i>. <i>Tant +mieux, toujours, Monsieur</i>, said he, when there is any thing to be +got - <i>tant pis</i>, when there is nothing. It comes to the +same thing, said I. <i>Pardonnez-moi</i>, said the landlord.</p> +<p>I cannot take a fitter opportunity to observe, once for all, that +<i>tant pis</i> and <i>tant mieux</i>, being two of the great hinges +in French conversation, a stranger would do well to set himself right +in the use of them, before he gets to Paris.</p> +<p>A prompt French marquis at our ambassador’s table demanded +of Mr. H-, if he was H- the poet? No, said Mr. H-, mildly. - <i>Tant +pis</i>, replied the marquis.</p> +<p>It is H- the historian, said another, - <i>Tant mieux</i>, said the +marquis. And Mr. H-, who is a man of an excellent heart, return’d +thanks for both.</p> +<p>When the landlord had set me right in this matter, he called in La +Fleur, which was the name of the young man he had spoke of, - saying +only first, That as for his talents he would presume to say nothing, +- Monsieur was the best judge what would suit him; but for the fidelity +of La Fleur he would stand responsible in all he was worth.</p> +<p>The landlord deliver’d this in a manner which instantly set +my mind to the business I was upon; - and La Fleur, who stood waiting +without, in that breathless expectation which every son of nature of +us have felt in our turns, came in.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I am apt to be taken with all kinds of people at first sight; but +never more so than when a poor devil comes to offer his service to so +poor a devil as myself; and as I know this weakness, I always suffer +my judgment to draw back something on that very account, - and this +more or less, according to the mood I am in, and the case; - and I may +add, the gender too, of the person I am to govern.</p> +<p>When La Fleur entered the room, after every discount I could make +for my soul, the genuine look and air of the fellow determined the matter +at once in his favour; so I hired him first, - and then began to enquire +what he could do: But I shall find out his talents, quoth I, as I want +them, - besides, a Frenchman can do every thing.</p> +<p>Now poor La Fleur could do nothing in the world but beat a drum, +and play a march or two upon the fife. I was determined to make +his talents do; and can’t say my weakness was ever so insulted +by my wisdom as in the attempt.</p> +<p>La Fleur had set out early in life, as gallantly as most Frenchmen +do, with <i>serving</i> for a few years; at the end of which, having +satisfied the sentiment, and found, moreover, That the honour of beating +a drum was likely to be its own reward, as it open’d no further +track of glory to him, - he retired <i>à ses terres</i>, and +lived <i>comme il plaisoit à Dieu</i>; - that is to say, upon +nothing.</p> +<p>- And so, quoth Wisdom, you have hired a drummer to attend you in +this tour of yours through France and Italy! - Psha! said I, and do +not one half of our gentry go with a humdrum <i>compagnon du voyage</i> +the same round, and have the piper and the devil and all to pay besides? +When man can extricate himself with an <i>équivoque</i> in such +an unequal match, - he is not ill off. - But you can do something else, +La Fleur? said I. - <i>O qu’oui</i>! he could make spatterdashes, +and play a little upon the fiddle. - Bravo! said Wisdom. - Why, I play +a bass myself, said I; - we shall do very well. You can shave, +and dress a wig a little, La Fleur? - He had all the dispositions in +the world. - It is enough for heaven! said I, interrupting him, - and +ought to be enough for me. - So, supper coming in, and having a frisky +English spaniel on one side of my chair, and a French valet, with as +much hilarity in his countenance as ever Nature painted in one, on the +other, - I was satisfied to my heart’s content with my empire; +and if monarchs knew what they would be at, they might be as satisfied +as I was.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>As La Fleur went the whole tour of France and Italy with me, and +will be often upon the stage, I must interest the reader a little further +in his behalf, by saying, that I had never less reason to repent of +the impulses which generally do determine me, than in regard to this +fellow; - he was a faithful, affectionate, simple soul as ever trudged +after the heels of a philosopher; and, notwithstanding his talents of +drum beating and spatterdash-making, which, though very good in themselves, +happened to be of no great service to me, yet was I hourly recompensed +by the festivity of his temper; - it supplied all defects: - I had a +constant resource in his looks in all difficulties and distresses of +my own - I was going to have added of his too; but La Fleur was out +of the reach of every thing; for, whether ’twas hunger or thirst, +or cold or nakedness, or watchings, or whatever stripes of ill luck +La Fleur met with in our journeyings, there was no index in his physiognomy +to point them out by, - he was eternally the same; so that if I am a +piece of a philosopher, which Satan now and then puts it into my head +I am, - it always mortifies the pride of the conceit, by reflecting +how much I owe to the complexional philosophy of this poor fellow, for +shaming me into one of a better kind. With all this, La Fleur +had a small cast of the coxcomb, - but he seemed at first sight to be +more a coxcomb of nature than of art; and, before I had been three days +in Paris with him, - he seemed to be no coxcomb at all.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The next morning, La Fleur entering upon his employment, I delivered +to him the key of my portmanteau, with an inventory of my half a dozen +shirts and silk pair of breeches, and bid him fasten all upon the chaise, +- get the horses put to, - and desire the landlord to come in with his +bill.</p> +<p><i>C’est un garcon de bonne fortune</i>, said the landlord, +pointing through the window to half a dozen wenches who had got round +about La Fleur, and were most kindly taking their leave of him, as the +postilion was leading out the horses. La Fleur kissed all their +hands round and round again, and thrice he wiped his eyes, and thrice +he promised he would bring them all pardons from Rome.</p> +<p>- The young fellow, said the landlord, is beloved by all the town, +and there is scarce a corner in Montreuil where the want of him will +not be felt: he has but one misfortune in the world, continued he, “he +is always in love.” - I am heartily glad of it, said I, - ’twill +save me the trouble every night of putting my breeches under my head. +In saying this, I was making not so much La Fleur’s eloge as my +own, having been in love with one princess or another almost all my +life, and I hope I shall go on so till I die, being firmly persuaded, +that if ever I do a mean action, it must be in some interval betwixt +one passion and another: whilst this interregnum lasts, I always perceive +my heart locked up, - I can scarce find in it to give Misery a sixpence; +and therefore I always get out of it as fast as I can - and the moment +I am rekindled, I am all generosity and good-will again; and would do +anything in the world, either for or with any one, if they will but +satisfy me there is no sin in it.</p> +<p>- But in saying this, - sure I am commanding the passion, - not myself.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>A FRAGMENT.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>- The town of Abdera, notwithstanding Democritus lived there, trying +all the powers of irony and laughter to reclaim it, was the vilest and +most profligate town in all Thrace. What for poisons, conspiracies, +and assassinations, - libels, pasquinades, and tumults, there was no +going there by day - ’twas worse by night.</p> +<p>Now, when things were at the worst, it came to pass that the Andromeda +of Euripides being represented at Abdera, the whole orchestra was delighted +with it: but of all the passages which delighted them, nothing operated +more upon their imaginations than the tender strokes of nature which +the poet had wrought up in that pathetic speech of Perseus, <i>O Cupid, +prince of gods and men</i>! &c. Every man almost spoke pure +iambics the next day, and talked of nothing but Perseus his pathetic +address, - “<i>O Cupid! prince of gods and men</i>!” - in +every street of Abdera, in every house, “O Cupid! Cupid!” +- in every mouth, like the natural notes of some sweet melody which +drop from it, whether it will or no, - nothing but “Cupid! Cupid! +prince of gods and men!” - The fire caught - and the whole city, +like the heart of one man, open’d itself to Love.</p> +<p>No pharmacopolist could sell one grain of hellebore, - not a single +armourer had a heart to forge one instrument of death; - Friendship +and Virtue met together, and kiss’d each other in the street; +the golden age returned, and hung over the town of Abdera - every Abderite +took his eaten pipe, and every Abderitish woman left her purple web, +and chastely sat her down and listened to the song.</p> +<p>’Twas only in the power, says the Fragment, of the God whose +empire extendeth from heaven to earth, and even to the depths of the +sea, to have done this.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MONTREUIL.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When all is ready, and every article is disputed and paid for in +the inn, unless you are a little sour’d by the adventure, there +is always a matter to compound at the door, before you can get into +your chaise; and that is with the sons and daughters of poverty, who +surround you. Let no man say, “Let them go to the devil!” +- ’tis a cruel journey to send a few miserables, and they have +had sufferings enow without it: I always think it better to take a few +sous out in my hand; and I would counsel every gentle traveller to do +so likewise: he need not be so exact in setting down his motives for +giving them; - They will be registered elsewhere.</p> +<p>For my own part, there is no man gives so little as I do; for few, +that I know, have so little to give; but as this was the first public +act of my charity in France, I took the more notice of it.</p> +<p>A well-a-way! said I, - I have but eight sous in the world, showing +them in my hand, and there are eight poor men and eight poor women for +’em.</p> +<p>A poor tatter’d soul, without a shirt on, instantly withdrew +his claim, by retiring two steps out of the circle, and making a disqualifying +bow on his part. Had the whole <i>parterre</i> cried out, <i>Place +aux dames</i>, with one voice, it would not have conveyed the sentiment +of a deference for the sex with half the effect.</p> +<p>Just Heaven! for what wise reasons hast thou ordered it, that beggary +and urbanity, which are at such variance in other countries, should +find a way to be at unity in this?</p> +<p>- I insisted upon presenting him with a single sous, merely for his +<i>politesse.</i></p> +<p>A poor little dwarfish brisk fellow, who stood over against me in +the circle, putting something first under his arm, which had once been +a hat, took his snuff-box out of his pocket, and generously offer’d +a pinch on both sides of him: it was a gift of consequence, and modestly +declined. - The poor little fellow pressed it upon them with a +nod of welcomeness. - <i>Prenez en - prenez</i>, said he, looking another +way; so they each took a pinch. - Pity thy box should ever want one! +said I to myself; so I put a couple of sous into it - taking a small +pinch out of his box, to enhance their value, as I did it. He +felt the weight of the second obligation more than of the first, - ’twas +doing him an honour, - the other was only doing him a charity; - and +he made me a bow down to the ground for it.</p> +<p>- Here! said I to an old soldier with one hand, who had been campaigned +and worn out to death in the service - here’s a couple of sous +for thee. - <i>Vive le Roi</i>! said the old soldier.</p> +<p>I had then but three sous left: so I gave one, simply, <i>pour l’amour +de Dieu</i>, which was the footing on which it was begg’d. - The +poor woman had a dislocated hip; so it could not be well upon any other +motive.</p> +<p><i>Mon cher et très-charitable Monsieur</i>. - There’s +no opposing this, said I.</p> +<p><i>Milord Anglois</i> - the very sound was worth the money; - so +I gave <i>my last sous for it</i>. But in the eagerness of giving, +I had overlooked a <i>pauvre honteux</i>, who had had no one to ask +a sous for him, and who, I believe, would have perished, ere he could +have ask’d one for himself: he stood by the chaise a little without +the circle, and wiped a tear from a face which I thought had seen better +days. - Good God! said I - and I have not one single sous left to give +him. - But you have a thousand! cried all the powers of nature, stirring +within me; - so I gave him - no matter what - I am ashamed to say <i>how +much</i> now, - and was ashamed to think how little, then: so, if the +reader can form any conjecture of my disposition, as these two fixed +points are given him, he may judge within a livre or two what was the +precise sum.</p> +<p>I could afford nothing for the rest, but <i>Dieu vous bénisse</i>!</p> +<p>- <i>Et le bon Dieu vous bénisse encore</i>, said the old +soldier, the dwarf, &c. The <i>pauvre honteux</i> could say +nothing; - he pull’d out a little handkerchief, and wiped his +face as he turned away - and I thought he thanked me more than them +all.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE BIDET.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Having settled all these little matters, I got into my post-chaise +with more ease than ever I got into a post-chaise in my life; and La +Fleur having got one large jack-boot on the far side of a little <i>bidet</i>, +and another on this (for I count nothing of his legs) - he canter’d +away before me as happy and as perpendicular as a prince. - But what +is happiness! what is grandeur in this painted scene of life! +A dead ass, before we had got a league, put a sudden stop to La Fleur’s +career; - his bidet would not pass by it, - a contention arose betwixt +them, and the poor fellow was kick’d out of his jack-boots the +very first kick.</p> +<p>La Fleur bore his fall like a French Christian, saying neither more +nor less upon it, than <i>Diable</i>! So presently got up, and +came to the charge again astride his bidet, beating him up to it as +he would have beat his drum.</p> +<p>The bidet flew from one side of the road to the other, then back +again, - then this way, then that way, and in short, every way but by +the dead ass: - La Fleur insisted upon the thing - and the bidet threw +him.</p> +<p>What’s the matter, La Fleur, said I, with this bidet of thine? +Monsieur, said he, <i>c’est un cheval le plus opiniâtre +du monde</i>. - Nay, if he is a conceited beast, he must go his own +way, replied I. So La Fleur got off him, and giving him a good +sound lash, the bidet took me at my word, and away he scampered back +to Montreuil. - <i>Peste</i>! said La Fleur.</p> +<p>It is not <i>mal-à-propos</i> to take notice here, that though +La Fleur availed himself but of two different terms of exclamation in +this encounter, - namely, <i>Diable</i>! and <i>Peste</i>! that there +are, nevertheless, three in the French language: like the positive, +comparative, and superlative, one or the other of which serves for every +unexpected throw of the dice in life.</p> +<p><i>Le Diable</i>! which is the first, and positive degree, is generally +used upon ordinary emotions of the mind, where small things only fall +out contrary to your expectations; such as - the throwing once doublets +- La Fleur’s being kick’d off his horse, and so forth. - +Cuckoldom, for the same reason, is always - <i>Le Diable</i>!</p> +<p>But, in cases where the cast has something provoking in it, as in +that of the bidet’s running away after, and leaving La Fleur aground +in jack-boots, - ’tis the second degree.</p> +<p>’Tis then <i>Peste</i>!</p> +<p>And for the third -</p> +<p>- But here my heart is wrung with pity and fellow feeling, when I +reflect what miseries must have been their lot, and how bitterly so +refined a people must have smarted, to have forced them upon the use +of it. -</p> +<p>Grant me, O ye powers which touch the tongue with eloquence in distress! +- what ever is my <i>cast</i>, grant me but decent words to exclaim +in, and I will give my nature way.</p> +<p>- But as these were not to be had in France, I resolved to take every +evil just as it befell me, without any exclamation at all.</p> +<p>La Fleur, who had made no such covenant with himself, followed the +bidet with his eyes till it was got out of sight, - and then, you may +imagine, if you please, with what word he closed the whole affair.</p> +<p>As there was no hunting down a frightened horse in jack-boots, there +remained no alternative but taking La Fleur either behind the chaise, +or into it. -</p> +<p>I preferred the latter, and in half an hour we got to the post-house +at Nampont.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>NAMPONT. THE DEAD ASS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>- And this, said he, putting the remains of a crust into his wallet +- and this should have been thy portion, said he, hadst thou been alive +to have shared it with me. - I thought, by the accent, it had been an +apostrophe to his child; but ’twas to his ass, and to the very +ass we had seen dead in the road, which had occasioned La Fleur’s +misadventure. The man seemed to lament it much; and it instantly +brought into my mind Sancho’s lamentation for his; but he did +it with more true touches of nature.</p> +<p>The mourner was sitting upon a stone bench at the door, with the +ass’s pannel and its bridle on one side, which he took up from +time to time, - then laid them down, - look’d at them, and shook +his head. He then took his crust of bread out of his wallet again, +as if to eat it; held it some time in his hand, - then laid it upon +the bit of his ass’s bridle, - looked wistfully at the little +arrangement he had made - and then gave a sigh.</p> +<p>The simplicity of his grief drew numbers about him, and La Fleur +amongst the rest, whilst the horses were getting ready; as I continued +sitting in the post-chaise, I could see and hear over their heads.</p> +<p>- He said he had come last from Spain, where he had been from the +furthest borders of Franconia; and had got so far on his return home, +when his ass died. Every one seemed desirous to know what business +could have taken so old and poor a man so far a journey from his own +home.</p> +<p>It had pleased heaven, he said, to bless him with three sons, the +finest lads in Germany; but having in one week lost two of the eldest +of them by the small-pox, and the youngest falling ill of the same distemper, +he was afraid of being bereft of them all; and made a vow, if heaven +would not take him from him also, he would go in gratitude to St. Iago +in Spain.</p> +<p>When the mourner got thus far on his story, he stopp’d to pay +Nature her tribute, - and wept bitterly.</p> +<p>He said, heaven had accepted the conditions; and that he had set +out from his cottage with this poor creature, who had been a patient +partner of his journey; - that it had eaten the same bread with him +all the way, and was unto him as a friend.</p> +<p>Every body who stood about, heard the poor fellow with concern. - +La Fleur offered him money. - The mourner said he did not want it; - +it was not the value of the ass - but the loss of him. - The ass, he +said, he was assured, loved him; - and upon this told them a long story +of a mischance upon their passage over the Pyrenean mountains, which +had separated them from each other three days; during which time the +ass had sought him as much as he had sought the ass, and that they had +scarce either eaten or drank till they met.</p> +<p>Thou hast one comfort, friend, said I, at least, in the loss of thy +poor beast; I’m sure thou hast been a merciful master to him. +- Alas! said the mourner, I thought so when he was alive; - but now +that he is dead, I think otherwise. - I fear the weight of myself and +my afflictions together have been too much for him, - they have shortened +the poor creature’s days, and I fear I have them to answer for. +- Shame on the world! said I to myself. - Did we but love each other +as this poor soul loved his ass - ’twould be something. -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>NAMPONT. THE POSTILION.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The concern which the poor fellow’s story threw me into required +some attention; the postilion paid not the least to it, but set off +upon the <i>pavé</i> in a full gallop.</p> +<p>The thirstiest soul in the most sandy desert of Arabia could not +have wished more for a cup of cold water, than mine did for grave and +quiet movements; and I should have had an high opinion of the postilion +had he but stolen off with me in something like a pensive pace. - On +the contrary, as the mourner finished his lamentation, the fellow gave +an unfeeling lash to each of his beasts, and set off clattering like +a thousand devils.</p> +<p>I called to him as loud as I could, for heaven’s sake to go +slower: - and the louder I called, the more unmercifully he galloped. +- The deuce take him and his galloping too - said I, - he’ll go +on tearing my nerves to pieces till he has worked me into a foolish +passion, and then he’ll go slow that I may enjoy the sweets of +it.</p> +<p>The postilion managed the point to a miracle: by the time he had +got to the foot of a steep hill, about half a league from Nampont, - +he had put me out of temper with him, - and then with myself, for being +so.</p> +<p>My case then required a different treatment; and a good rattling +gallop would have been of real service to me. -</p> +<p>- Then, prithee, get on - get on, my good lad, said I.</p> +<p>The postilion pointed to the hill. - I then tried to return back +to the story of the poor German and his ass - but I had broke the clue, +- and could no more get into it again, than the postilion could into +a trot.</p> +<p>- The deuce go, said I, with it all! Here am I sitting as candidly +disposed to make the best of the worst, as ever wight was, and all runs +counter.</p> +<p>There is one sweet lenitive at least for evils, which Nature holds +out to us: so I took it kindly at her hands, and fell asleep; and the +first word which roused me was <i>Amiens.</i></p> +<p>- Bless me! said I, rubbing my eyes, - this is the very town where +my poor lady is to come.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>AMIENS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The words were scarce out of my mouth when the Count de L-’s +post-chaise, with his sister in it, drove hastily by: she had just time +to make me a bow of recognition, - and of that particular kind of it, +which told me she had not yet done with me. She was as good as +her look; for, before I had quite finished my supper, her brother’s +servant came into the room with a billet, in which she said she had +taken the liberty to charge me with a letter, which I was to present +myself to Madame R- the first morning I had nothing to do at Paris. +There was only added, she was sorry, but from what <i>penchant</i> she +had not considered, that she had been prevented telling me her story, +- that she still owed it to me; and if my route should ever lay through +Brussels, and I had not by then forgot the name of Madame de L-, - that +Madame de L- would be glad to discharge her obligation.</p> +<p>Then I will meet thee, said I, fair spirit! at Brussels; - ’tis +only returning from Italy through Germany to Holland, by the route of +Flanders, home; - ’twill scarce be ten posts out of my way; but, +were it ten thousand! with what a moral delight will it crown my journey, +in sharing in the sickening incidents of a tale of misery told to me +by such a sufferer? To see her weep! and, though I cannot dry +up the fountain of her tears, what an exquisite sensation is there still +left, in wiping them away from off the cheeks of the first and fairest +of women, as I’m sitting with my handkerchief in my hand in silence +the whole night beside her?</p> +<p>There was nothing wrong in the sentiment; and yet I instantly reproached +my heart with it in the bitterest and most reprobate of expressions.</p> +<p>It had ever, as I told the reader, been one of the singular blessings +of my life, to be almost every hour of it miserably in love with some +one; and my last flame happening to be blown out by a whiff of jealousy +on the sudden turn of a corner, I had lighted it up afresh at the pure +taper of Eliza but about three months before, - swearing, as I did it, +that it should last me through the whole journey. - Why should I dissemble +the matter? I had sworn to her eternal fidelity; - she had a right +to my whole heart: - to divide my affections was to lessen them; - to +expose them was to risk them: where there is risk there may be loss: +- and what wilt thou have, Yorick, to answer to a heart so full of trust +and confidence - so good, so gentle, and unreproaching!</p> +<p>- I will not go to Brussels, replied I, interrupting myself. - But +my imagination went on, - I recalled her looks at that crisis of our +separation, when neither of us had power to say adieu! I look’d +at the picture she had tied in a black riband about my neck, - and blush’d +as I look’d at it. - I would have given the world to have kiss’d +it, - but was ashamed. - And shall this tender flower, said I, pressing +it between my hands, - shall it be smitten to its very root, - and smitten, +Yorick! by thee, who hast promised to shelter it in thy breast?</p> +<p>Eternal Fountain of Happiness! said I, kneeling down upon the ground, +- be thou my witness - and every pure spirit which tastes it, be my +witness also, That I would not travel to Brussels, unless Eliza went +along with me, did the road lead me towards heaven!</p> +<p>In transports of this kind, the heart, in spite of the understanding, +will always say too much.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE LETTER. AMIENS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Fortune had not smiled upon La Fleur; for he had been unsuccessful +in his feats of chivalry, - and not one thing had offered to signalise +his zeal for my service from the time that he had entered into it, which +was almost four-and-twenty hours. The poor soul burn’d with +impatience; and the Count de L-’s servant coming with the letter, +being the first practicable occasion which offer’d, La Fleur had +laid hold of it; and, in order to do honour to his master, had taken +him into a back parlour in the auberge, and treated him with a cup or +two of the best wine in Picardy; and the Count de L-’s servant, +in return, and not to be behindhand in politeness with La Fleur, had +taken him back with him to the Count’s hotel. La Fleur’s +<i>prevenancy</i> (for there was a passport in his very looks) soon +set every servant in the kitchen at ease with him; and as a Frenchman, +whatever be his talents, has no sort of prudery in showing them, La +Fleur, in less than five minutes, had pulled out his fife, and leading +off the dance himself with the first note, set the <i>fille de chambre</i>, +the <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, the cook, the scullion, +and all the house-hold, dogs and cats, besides an old monkey, a dancing: +I suppose there never was a merrier kitchen since the flood.</p> +<p>Madame de L-, in passing from her brother’s apartments to her +own, hearing so much jollity below stairs, rung up her <i>fille de chambre</i> +to ask about it; and, hearing it was the English gentleman’s servant, +who had set the whole house merry with his pipe, she ordered him up.</p> +<p>As the poor fellow could not present himself empty, he had loaded +himself in going up stairs with a thousand compliments to Madame de +L-, on the part of his master, - added a long apocrypha of inquiries +after Madame de L-’s health, - told her, that Monsieur his master +was <i>au désespoire</i> for her re-establishment from the fatigues +of her journey, - and, to close all, that Monsieur had received the +letter which Madame had done him the honour - And he has done me the +honour, said Madame de L-, interrupting La Fleur, to send a billet in +return.</p> +<p>Madame de L- had said this with such a tone of reliance upon the +fact, that La Fleur had not power to disappoint her expectations; - +he trembled for my honour, - and possibly might not altogether be unconcerned +for his own, as a man capable of being attached to a master who could +be wanting <i>en égards vis à vis d’une femme</i>! +so that when Madame de L- asked La Fleur if he had brought a letter, +- <i>O qu’oui</i>, said La Fleur: so laying down his hat upon +the ground, and taking hold of the flap of his right side pocket with +his left hand, he began to search for the letter with his right; - then +contrariwise. - <i>Diable</i>! then sought every pocket - pocket by +pocket, round, not forgetting his fob: - <i>Peste</i>! - then La Fleur +emptied them upon the floor, - pulled out a dirty cravat, - a handkerchief, +- a comb, - a whip lash, - a nightcap, - then gave a peep into his hat, +- <i>Quelle étourderie</i>! He had left the letter upon +the table in the auberge; - he would run for it, and be back with it +in three minutes.</p> +<p>I had just finished my supper when La Fleur came in to give me an +account of his adventure: he told the whole story simply as it was: +and only added that if Monsieur had forgot (<i>par hazard</i>) to answer +Madame’s letter, the arrangement gave him an opportunity to recover +the <i>faux pas</i>; - and if not, that things were only as they were.</p> +<p>Now I was not altogether sure of my <i>étiquette</i>, whether +I ought to have wrote or no; - but if I had, - a devil himself could +not have been angry: ’twas but the officious zeal of a well meaning +creature for my honour; and, however he might have mistook the road, +- or embarrassed me in so doing, - his heart was in no fault, - I was +under no necessity to write; - and, what weighed more than all, - he +did not look as if he had done amiss.</p> +<p>- ’Tis all very well, La Fleur, said I. - ’Twas sufficient. +La Fleur flew out of the room like lightning, and returned with pen, +ink, and paper, in his hand; and, coming up to the table, laid them +close before me, with such a delight in his countenance, that I could +not help taking up the pen.</p> +<p>I began and began again; and, though I had nothing to say, and that +nothing might have been expressed in half a dozen lines, I made half +a dozen different beginnings, and could no way please myself.</p> +<p>In short, I was in no mood to write.</p> +<p>La Fleur stepp’d out and brought a little water in a glass +to dilute my ink, - then fetch’d sand and seal-wax. - It was all +one; I wrote, and blotted, and tore off, and burnt, and wrote again. +- <i>Le diable l’emporte</i>! said I, half to myself, - I cannot +write this self-same letter, throwing the pen down despairingly as I +said it.</p> +<p>As soon as I had cast down my pen, La Fleur advanced with the most +respectful carriage up to the table, and making a thousand apologies +for the liberty he was going to take, told me he had a letter in his +pocket wrote by a drummer in his regiment to a corporal’s wife, +which he durst say would suit the occasion.</p> +<p>I had a mind to let the poor fellow have his humour. - Then prithee, +said I, let me see it.</p> +<p>La Fleur instantly pulled out a little dirty pocket book cramm’d +full of small letters and billet-doux in a sad condition, and laying +it upon the table, and then untying the string which held them all together, +run them over, one by one, till he came to the letter in question, - +<i>La voila</i>! said he, clapping his hands: so, unfolding it first, +he laid it open before me, and retired three steps from the table whilst +I read it.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE LETTER.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Madame,</p> +<p>Je suis pénétré de la douleur la plus vive, +et réduit en même temps au désespoir par ce retour +imprévù du Caporal qui rend notre entrevûe de ce +soir la chose du monde la plus impossible.</p> +<p>Mais vive la joie! et toute la mienne sera de penser à vous.</p> +<p>L’amour n’est <i>rien</i> sans sentiment.</p> +<p>Et le sentiment est encore <i>moins</i> sans amour.</p> +<p>On dit qu’on ne doit jamais se désesperér.</p> +<p>On dit aussi que Monsieur le Caporal monte la garde Mercredi: alors +ce cera mon tour.</p> +<p><i>Chacun à son tour</i>.</p> +<p>En attendant - Vive l’amour! et vive la bagatelle!</p> +<p>Je suis, Madame,</p> +<p>Avec tous les sentimens les plus respectueux et les plus tendres,</p> +<p>tout à vous,</p> +<p>JAQUES ROQUE.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>It was but changing the Corporal into the Count, - and saying nothing +about mounting guard on Wednesday, - and the letter was neither right +nor wrong: - so, to gratify the poor fellow, who stood trembling for +my honour, his own, and the honour of his letter, - I took the cream +gently off it, and whipping it up in my own way, I seal’d it up +and sent him with it to Madame de L-; - and the next morning we pursued +our journey to Paris.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When a man can contest the point by dint of equipage, and carry all +on floundering before him with half a dozen of lackies and a couple +of cooks - ’tis very well in such a place as Paris, - he may drive +in at which end of a street he will.</p> +<p>A poor prince who is weak in cavalry, and whose whole infantry does +not exceed a single man, had best quit the field, and signalize himself +in the cabinet, if he can get up into it; - I say <i>up into it</i> +- for there is no descending perpendicular amongst ’em with a +“<i>Me voici</i>! <i>mes enfans</i>” - here I am - whatever +many may think.</p> +<p>I own my first sensations, as soon as I was left solitary and alone +in my own chamber in the hotel, were far from being so flattering as +I had prefigured them. I walked up gravely to the window in my +dusty black coat, and looking through the glass saw all the world in +yellow, blue, and green, running at the ring of pleasure. - The old +with broken lances, and in helmets which had lost their vizards; - the +young in armour bright which shone like gold, beplumed with each gay +feather of the east, - all, - all, tilting at it like fascinated knights +in tournaments of yore for fame and love. -</p> +<p>Alas, poor Yorick! cried I, what art thou doing here? On the +very first onset of all this glittering clatter thou art reduced to +an atom; - seek, - seek some winding alley, with a tourniquet at the +end of it, where chariot never rolled or flambeau shot its rays; - there +thou mayest solace thy soul in converse sweet with some kind grisette +of a barber’s wife, and get into such coteries! -</p> +<p>- May I perish! if I do, said I, pulling out the letter which I had +to present to Madame de R- - I’ll wait upon this lady, the +very first thing I do. So I called La Fleur to go seek me a barber +directly, - and come back and brush my coat.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE WIG. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When the barber came, he absolutely refused to have any thing to +do with my wig: ’twas either above or below his art: I had nothing +to do but to take one ready made of his own recommendation.</p> +<p>- But I fear, friend! said I, this buckle won’t stand. - You +may emerge it, replied he, into the ocean, and it will stand. -</p> +<p>What a great scale is every thing upon in this city thought I. - +The utmost stretch of an English periwig-maker’s ideas could have +gone no further than to have “dipped it into a pail of water.” +- What difference! ’tis like Time to Eternity!</p> +<p>I confess I do hate all cold conceptions, as I do the puny ideas +which engender them; and am generally so struck with the great works +of nature, that for my own part, if I could help it, I never would make +a comparison less than a mountain at least. All that can be said +against the French sublime, in this instance of it, is this: - That +the grandeur is <i>more</i> in the <i>word</i>, and <i>less</i> in the +<i>thing</i>. No doubt, the ocean fills the mind with vast ideas; +but Paris being so far inland, it was not likely I should run post a +hundred miles out of it, to try the experiment; - the Parisian barber +meant nothing. -</p> +<p>The pail of water standing beside the great deep, makes, certainly, +but a sorry figure in speech; - but, ’twill be said, - it has +one advantage - ’tis in the next room, and the truth of the buckle +may be tried in it, without more ado, in a single moment.</p> +<p>In honest truth, and upon a more candid revision of the matter, <i>The +French expression professes more than it performs.</i></p> +<p>I think I can see the precise and distinguishing marks of national +characters more in these nonsensical <i>minutiae</i> than in the most +important matters of state; where great men of all nations talk and +stalk so much alike, that I would not give ninepence to choose amongst +them.</p> +<p>I was so long in getting from under my barber’s hands, that +it was too late to think of going with my letter to Madame R- that night: +but when a man is once dressed at all points for going out, his reflections +turn to little account; so taking down the name of the Hôtel de +Modene, where I lodged, I walked forth without any determination where +to go; - I shall consider of that, said I, as I walk along.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PULSE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Hail, ye small sweet courtesies of life, for smooth do ye make the +road of it! like grace and beauty, which beget inclinations to love +at first sight: ’tis ye who open this door and let the stranger +in.</p> +<p>- Pray, Madame, said I, have the goodness to tell me which way I +must turn to go to the Opéra Comique? - Most willingly, Monsieur, +said she, laying aside her work. -</p> +<p>I had given a cast with my eye into half a dozen shops, as I came +along, in search of a face not likely to be disordered by such an interruption: +till at last, this, hitting my fancy, I had walked in.</p> +<p>She was working a pair of ruffles, as she sat in a low chair, on +the far side of the shop, facing the door.</p> +<p>- <i>Tres volontiers</i>, most willingly, said she, laying her work +down upon a chair next her, and rising up from the low chair she was +sitting in, with so cheerful a movement, and so cheerful a look, that +had I been laying out fifty louis d’ors with her, I should have +said - “This woman is grateful.”</p> +<p>You must turn, Monsieur, said she, going with me to the door of the +shop, and pointing the way down the street I was to take, - you must +turn first to your left hand, - <i>mais prenez garde</i> - there are +two turns; and be so good as to take the second - then go down a little +way and you’ll see a church: and, when you are past it, give yourself +the trouble to turn directly to the right, and that will lead you to +the foot of the Pont Neuf, which you must cross - and there any one +will do himself the pleasure to show you. -</p> +<p>She repeated her instructions three times over to me, with the same +goodnatur’d patience the third time as the first; - and if <i>tones +and</i> <i>manners</i> have a meaning, which certainly they have, unless +to hearts which shut them out, - she seemed really interested that I +should not lose myself.</p> +<p>I will not suppose it was the woman’s beauty, notwithstanding +she was the handsomest grisette, I think, I ever saw, which had much +to do with the sense I had of her courtesy; only I remember, when I +told her how much I was obliged to her, that I looked very full in her +eyes, - and that I repeated my thanks as often as she had done her instructions.</p> +<p>I had not got ten paces from the door, before I found I had forgot +every tittle of what she had said; - so looking back, and seeing her +still standing in the door of the shop, as if to look whether I went +right or not, - I returned back to ask her, whether the first turn was +to my right or left, - for that I had absolutely forgot. - Is it possible! +said she, half laughing. ’Tis very possible, replied I, +when a man is thinking more of a woman than of her good advice.</p> +<p>As this was the real truth - she took it, as every woman takes a +matter of right, with a slight curtsey.</p> +<p>- <i>Attendez</i>! said she, laying her hand upon my arm to detain +me, whilst she called a lad out of the back shop to get ready a parcel +of gloves. I am just going to send him, said she, with a packet +into that quarter, and if you will have the complaisance to step in, +it will be ready in a moment, and he shall attend you to the place. +- So I walk’d in with her to the far side of the shop: and taking +up the ruffle in my hand which she laid upon the chair, as if I had +a mind to sit, she sat down herself in her low chair, and I instantly +sat myself down beside her.</p> +<p>- He will be ready, Monsieur, said she, in a moment. - And in that +moment, replied I, most willingly would I say something very civil to +you for all these courtesies. Any one may do a casual act of good +nature, but a continuation of them shows it is a part of the temperature; +and certainly, added I, if it is the same blood which comes from the +heart which descends to the extremes (touching her wrist) I am sure +you must have one of the best pulses of any woman in the world. - Feel +it, said she, holding out her arm. So laying down my hat, I took +hold of her fingers in one hand, and applied the two forefingers of +my other to the artery. -</p> +<p>- Would to heaven! my dear Eugenius, thou hadst passed by, and beheld +me sitting in my black coat, and in my lack-a-day-sical manner, counting +the throbs of it, one by one, with as much true devotion as if I had +been watching the critical ebb or flow of her fever. - How wouldst thou +have laugh’d and moralized upon my new profession! - and thou +shouldst have laugh’d and moralized on. - Trust me, my dear Eugenius, +I should have said, “There are worse occupations in this world +<i>than feeling a woman’s pulse</i>.” - But a grisette’s! +thou wouldst have said, - and in an open shop! Yorick -</p> +<p>- So much the better: for when my views are direct, Eugenius, I care +not if all the world saw me feel it.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE HUSBAND. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I had counted twenty pulsations, and was going on fast towards the +fortieth, when her husband, coming unexpected from a back parlour into +the shop, put me a little out of my reckoning. - ’Twas nobody +but her husband, she said; - so I began a fresh score. - Monsieur is +so good, quoth she, as he pass’d by us, as to give himself the +trouble of feeling my pulse. - The husband took off his hat, and making +me a bow, said, I did him too much honour - and having said that, he +put on his hat and walk’d out.</p> +<p>Good God! said I to myself, as he went out, - and can this man be +the husband of this woman!</p> +<p>Let it not torment the few who know what must have been the grounds +of this exclamation, if I explain it to those who do not.</p> +<p>In London a shopkeeper and a shopkeeper’s wife seem to be one +bone and one flesh: in the several endowments of mind and body, sometimes +the one, sometimes the other has it, so as, in general, to be upon a +par, and totally with each other as nearly as man and wife need to do.</p> +<p>In Paris, there are scarce two orders of beings more different: for +the legislative and executive powers of the shop not resting in the +husband, he seldom comes there: - in some dark and dismal room behind, +he sits commerce-less, in his thrum nightcap, the same rough son of +Nature that Nature left him.</p> +<p>The genius of a people, where nothing but the monarchy is <i>salique</i>, +having ceded this department, with sundry others, totally to the women, +- by a continual higgling with customers of all ranks and sizes from +morning to night, like so many rough pebbles shook long together in +a bag, by amicable collisions they have worn down their asperities and +sharp angles, and not only become round and smooth, but will receive, +some of them, a polish like a brilliant: - Monsieur <i>le Mari</i> is +little better than the stone under your foot.</p> +<p>- Surely, - surely, man! it is not good for thee to sit alone: - +thou wast made for social intercourse and gentle greetings; and this +improvement of our natures from it I appeal to as my evidence.</p> +<p>- And how does it beat, Monsieur? said she. - With all the benignity, +said I, looking quietly in her eyes, that I expected. - She was going +to say something civil in return - but the lad came into the shop with +the gloves. - <i>Á propos</i>, said I, I want a couple of pairs +myself.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE GLOVES. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The beautiful grisette rose up when I said this, and going behind +the counter, reach’d down a parcel and untied it: I advanced to +the side over against her: they were all too large. The beautiful +grisette measured them one by one across my hand. - It would not alter +their dimensions. - She begg’d I would try a single pair, which +seemed to be the least. - She held it open; - my hand slipped into it +at once. - It will not do, said I, shaking my head a little. - No, said +she, doing the same thing.</p> +<p>There are certain combined looks of simple subtlety, - where whim, +and sense, and seriousness, and nonsense, are so blended, that all the +languages of Babel set loose together, could not express them; - they +are communicated and caught so instantaneously, that you can scarce +say which party is the infector. I leave it to your men of words +to swell pages about it - it is enough in the present to say again, +the gloves would not do; so, folding our hands within our arms, we both +lolled upon the counter - it was narrow, and there was just room for +the parcel to lay between us.</p> +<p>The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then sideways +to the window, then at the gloves, - and then at me. I was not +disposed to break silence: - I followed her example: so, I looked at +the gloves, then to the window, then at the gloves, and then at her, +- and so on alternately.</p> +<p>I found I lost considerably in every attack: - she had a quick black +eye, and shot through two such long and silken eyelashes with such penetration, +that she look’d into my very heart and reins. - It may seem strange, +but I could actually feel she did. -</p> +<p>It is no matter, said I, taking up a couple of the pairs next me, +and putting them into my pocket.</p> +<p>I was sensible the beautiful grisette had not asked above a single +livre above the price. - I wish’d she had asked a livre more, +and was puzzling my brains how to bring the matter about. - Do you think, +my dear Sir, said she, mistaking my embarrassment, that I could ask +a sous too much of a stranger - and of a stranger whose politeness, +more than his want of gloves, has done me the honour to lay himself +at my mercy? - <i>M’en croyez capable</i>? - Faith! not I, said +I; and if you were, you are welcome. So counting the money into +her hand, and with a lower bow than one generally makes to a shopkeeper’s +wife, I went out, and her lad with his parcel followed me.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE TRANSLATION. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>There was nobody in the box I was let into but a kindly old French +officer. I love the character, not only because I honour the man +whose manners are softened by a profession which makes bad men worse; +but that I once knew one, - for he is no more, - and why should I not +rescue one page from violation by writing his name in it, and telling +the world it was Captain Tobias Shandy, the dearest of my flock and +friends, whose philanthropy I never think of at this long distance from +his death - but my eyes gush out with tears. For his sake I have +a predilection for the whole corps of veterans; and so I strode over +the two back rows of benches and placed myself beside him.</p> +<p>The old officer was reading attentively a small pamphlet, it might +be the book of the opera, with a large pair of spectacles. As +soon as I sat down, he took his spectacles off, and putting them into +a shagreen case, return’d them and the book into his pocket together. +I half rose up, and made him a bow.</p> +<p>Translate this into any civilized language in the world - the sense +is this:</p> +<p>“Here’s a poor stranger come into the box - he seems +as if he knew nobody; and is never likely, was he to be seven years +in Paris, if every man he comes near keeps his spectacles upon his nose: +- ’tis shutting the door of conversation absolutely in his face +- and using him worse than a German.”</p> +<p>The French officer might as well have said it all aloud: and if he +had, I should in course have put the bow I made him into French too, +and told him, “I was sensible of his attention, and return’d +him a thousand thanks for it.”</p> +<p>There is not a secret so aiding to the progress of sociality, as +to get master of this <i>short hand</i>, and to be quick in rendering +the several turns of looks and limbs with all their inflections and +delineations, into plain words. For my own part, by long habitude, +I do it so mechanically, that, when I walk the streets of London, I +go translating all the way; and have more than once stood behind in +the circle, where not three words have been said, and have brought off +twenty different dialogues with me, which I could have fairly wrote +down and sworn to.</p> +<p>I was going one evening to Martini’s concert at Milan, and, +was just entering the door of the hall, when the Marquisina di F- was +coming out in a sort of a hurry: - she was almost upon me before I saw +her; so I gave a spring to once side to let her pass. - She had done +the same, and on the same side too; so we ran our heads together: she +instantly got to the other side to get out: I was just as unfortunate +as she had been, for I had sprung to that side, and opposed her passage +again. - We both flew together to the other side, and then back, - and +so on: - it was ridiculous: we both blush’d intolerably: so I +did at last the thing I should have done at first; - I stood stock-still, +and the Marquisina had no more difficulty. I had no power to go +into the room, till I had made her so much reparation as to wait and +follow her with my eye to the end of the passage. She look’d +back twice, and walk’d along it rather sideways, as if she would +make room for any one coming up stairs to pass her. - No, said I - that’s +a vile translation: the Marquisina has a right to the best apology I +can make her, and that opening is left for me to do it in; - so I ran +and begg’d pardon for the embarrassment I had given her, saying +it was my intention to have made her way. She answered, she was +guided by the same intention towards me; - so we reciprocally thank’d +each other. She was at the top of the stairs; and seeing no <i>cicisbeo</i> +near her, I begg’d to hand her to her coach; - so we went down +the stairs, stopping at every third step to talk of the concert and +the adventure. - Upon my word, Madame, said I, when I had handed her +in, I made six different efforts to let you go out. - And I made six +efforts, replied she, to let you enter. - I wish to heaven you would +make a seventh, said I. - With all my heart, said she, making room. +- Life is too short to be long about the forms of it, - so I instantly +stepp’d in, and she carried me home with her. - And what became +of the concert, St. Cecilia, who I suppose was at it, knows more than +I.</p> +<p>I will only add, that the connexion which arose out of the translation +gave me more pleasure than any one I had the honour to make in Italy.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE DWARF. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I had never heard the remark made by any one in my life, except by +one; and who that was will probably come out in this chapter; so that +being pretty much unprepossessed, there must have been grounds for what +struck me the moment I cast my eyes over the parterre, - and that was, +the unaccountable sport of Nature in forming such numbers of dwarfs. +- No doubt she sports at certain times in almost every corner of the +world; but in Paris there is no end to her amusements. - The goddess +seems almost as merry as she is wise.</p> +<p>As I carried my idea out of the Opéra Comique with me, I measured +every body I saw walking in the streets by it. - Melancholy application! +especially where the size was extremely little, - the face extremely +dark, - the eyes quick, - the nose long, - the teeth white, - the jaw +prominent, - to see so many miserables, by force of accidents driven +out of their own proper class into the very verge of another, which +it gives me pain to write down: - every third man a pigmy! - some by +rickety heads and hump backs; - others by bandy legs; - a third set +arrested by the hand of Nature in the sixth and seventh years of their +growth; - a fourth, in their perfect and natural state like dwarf apple +trees; from the first rudiments and stamina of their existence, never +meant to grow higher.</p> +<p>A Medical Traveller might say, ’tis owing to undue bandages; +- a Splenetic one, to want of air; - and an Inquisitive Traveller, to +fortify the system, may measure the height of their houses, - the narrowness +of their streets, and in how few feet square in the sixth and seventh +stories such numbers of the bourgeoisie eat and sleep together; but +I remember Mr. Shandy the elder, who accounted for nothing like any +body else, in speaking one evening of these matters, averred that children, +like other animals, might be increased almost to any size, provided +they came right into the world; but the misery was, the citizens of +were Paris so coop’d up, that they had not actually room enough +to get them. - I do not call it getting anything, said he; - ’tis +getting nothing. - Nay, continued he, rising in his argument, ’tis +getting worse than nothing, when all you have got after twenty or five +and twenty years of the tenderest care and most nutritious aliment bestowed +upon it, shall not at last be as high as my leg. Now, Mr. Shandy +being very short, there could be nothing more said of it.</p> +<p>As this is not a work of reasoning, I leave the solution as I found +it, and content myself with the truth only of the remark, which is verified +in every lane and by-lane of Paris. I was walking down that which +leads from the Carousal to the Palais Royal, and observing a little +boy in some distress at the side of the gutter which ran down the middle +of it, I took hold of his hand and help’d him over. Upon +turning up his face to look at him after, I perceived he was about forty. +- Never mind, said I, some good body will do as much for me when I am +ninety.</p> +<p>I feel some little principles within me which incline me to be merciful +towards this poor blighted part of my species, who have neither size +nor strength to get on in the world. - I cannot bear to see one of them +trod upon; and had scarce got seated beside my old French officer, ere +the disgust was exercised, by seeing the very thing happen under the +box we sat in.</p> +<p>At the end of the orchestra, and betwixt that and the first side +box, there is a small esplanade left, where, when the house is full, +numbers of all ranks take sanctuary. Though you stand, as in the +parterre, you pay the same price as in the orchestra. A poor defenceless +being of this order had got thrust somehow or other into this luckless +place; - the night was hot, and he was surrounded by beings two feet +and a half higher than himself. The dwarf suffered inexpressibly +on all sides; but the thing which incommoded him most, was a tall corpulent +German, near seven feet high, who stood directly betwixt him and all +possibility of his seeing either the stage or the actors. The +poor dwarf did all he could to get a peep at what was going forwards, +by seeking for some little opening betwixt the German’s arm and +his body, trying first on one side, then the other; but the German stood +square in the most unaccommodating posture that can be imagined: - the +dwarf might as well have been placed at the bottom of the deepest draw-well +in Paris; so he civilly reached up his hand to the German’s sleeve, +and told him his distress. - The German turn’d his head back, +looked down upon him as Goliah did upon David, - and unfeelingly resumed +his posture.</p> +<p>I was just then taking a pinch of snuff out of my monk’s little +horn box. - And how would thy meek and courteous spirit, my dear monk! +so temper’d to <i>bear and forbear</i>! - how sweetly would it +have lent an ear to this poor soul’s complaint!</p> +<p>The old French officer, seeing me lift up my eyes with an emotion, +as I made the apostrophe, took the liberty to ask me what was the matter? +- I told him the story in three words; and added, how inhuman it was.</p> +<p>By this time the dwarf was driven to extremes, and in his first transports, +which are generally unreasonable, had told the German he would cut off +his long queue with his knife. - The German look’d back coolly, +and told him he was welcome, if he could reach it.</p> +<p>An injury sharpen’d by an insult, be it to whom it will, makes +every man of sentiment a party: I could have leap’d out of the +box to have redressed it. - The old French officer did it with much +less confusion; for leaning a little over, and nodding to a sentinel, +and pointing at the same time with his finger at the distress, - the +sentinel made his way to it. - There was no occasion to tell the grievance, +- the thing told himself; so thrusting back the German instantly with +his musket, - he took the poor dwarf by the hand, and placed him before +him. - This is noble! said I, clapping my hands together. - And yet +you would not permit this, said the old officer, in England.</p> +<p>- In England, dear Sir, said I, <i>we sit all at our ease</i>.</p> +<p>The old French officer would have set me at unity with myself, in +case I had been at variance, - by saying it was a <i>bon mot</i>; - +and, as a <i>bon mot</i> is always worth something at Paris, he offered +me a pinch of snuff.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE ROSE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>It was now my turn to ask the old French officer “What was +the matter?” for a cry of “<i>Haussez les mains, Monsieur +l’Abbé</i>!” re-echoed from a dozen different parts +of the parterre, was as unintelligible to me, as my apostrophe to the +monk had been to him.</p> +<p>He told me it was some poor Abbé in one of the upper loges, +who, he supposed, had got planted perdu behind a couple of grisettes +in order to see the opera, and that the parterre espying him, were insisting +upon his holding up both his hands during the representation. - And +can it be supposed, said I, that an ecclesiastic would pick the grisettes’ +pockets? The old French officer smiled, and whispering in my ear, +opened a door of knowledge which I had no idea of.</p> +<p>Good God! said I, turning pale with astonishment - is it possible, +that a people so smit with sentiment should at the same time be so unclean, +and so unlike themselves, - <i>Quelle grossièrté</i>! +added I.</p> +<p>The French officer told me, it was an illiberal sarcasm at the church, +which had begun in the theatre about the time the Tartuffe was given +in it by Molière: but like other remains of Gothic manners, was +declining. - Every nation, continued he, have their refinements and +<i>grossièrtés</i>, in which they take the lead, and lose +it of one another by turns: - that he had been in most countries, but +never in one where he found not some delicacies, which others seemed +to want. <i>Le</i> POUR <i>et le</i> CONTRE <i>se trouvent en +chaque nation</i>; there is a balance, said he, of good and bad everywhere; +and nothing but the knowing it is so, can emancipate one half of the +world from the prepossession which it holds against the other: - that +the advantage of travel, as it regarded the <i>sçavoir vivre</i>, +was by seeing a great deal both of men and manners; it taught us mutual +toleration; and mutual toleration, concluded he, making me a bow, taught +us mutual love.</p> +<p>The old French officer delivered this with an air of such candour +and good sense, as coincided with my first favourable impressions of +his character: - I thought I loved the man; but I fear I mistook the +object; - ’twas my own way of thinking - the difference was, I +could not have expressed it half so well.</p> +<p>It is alike troublesome to both the rider and his beast, - if the +latter goes pricking up his ears, and starting all the way at every +object which he never saw before. - I have as little torment of this +kind as any creature alive; and yet I honestly confess, that many a +thing gave me pain, and that I blush’d at many a word the first +month, - which I found inconsequent and perfectly innocent the second.</p> +<p>Madame do Rambouliet, after an acquaintance of about six weeks with +her, had done me the honour to take me in her coach about two leagues +out of town. - Of all women, Madame de Rambouliet is the most correct; +and I never wish to see one of more virtues and purity of heart. - In +our return back, Madame de Rambouliet desired me to pull the cord. - +I asked her if she wanted anything - <i>Rien que pour pisser</i>, said +Madame de Rambouliet.</p> +<p>Grieve not, gentle traveller, to let Madame de Rambouliet p-ss on. +- And, ye fair mystic nymphs! go each one <i>pluck your rose</i>, and +scatter them in your path, - for Madame de Rambouliet did no more. - +I handed Madame de Rambouliet out of the coach; and had I been the priest +of the chaste Castalia, I could not have served at her fountain with +a more respectful decorum.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE FILLE DE CHAMBRE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>What the old French officer had delivered upon travelling, bringing +Polonius’s advice to his son upon the same subject into my head, +- and that bringing in Hamlet, and Hamlet the rest of Shakespeare’s +works, I stopp’d at the Quai de Conti in my return home, to purchase +the whole set.</p> +<p>The bookseller said he had not a set in the world. <i>Comment</i>! +said I, taking one up out of a set which lay upon the counter betwixt +us. - He said they were sent him only to be got bound, and were to be +sent back to Versailles in the morning to the Count de B-.</p> +<p>- And does the Count de B-, said I, read Shakespeare? <i>C’est +un esprit fort</i>, replied the bookseller. - He loves English books! +and what is more to his honour, Monsieur, he loves the English too. +You speak this so civilly, said I, that it is enough to oblige an Englishman +to lay out a louis d’or or two at your shop. - The bookseller +made a bow, and was going to say something, when a young decent girl +about twenty, who by her air and dress seemed to be <i>fille de chambre</i> +to some devout woman of fashion, come into the shop and asked for <i>Les +Egarements du Coeur et de l’Esprit</i>: the bookseller gave her +the book directly; she pulled out a little green satin purse run round +with a riband of the same colour, and putting her finger and thumb into +it, she took out the money and paid for it. As I had nothing more +to stay me in the shop, we both walk’d out at the door together.</p> +<p>- And what have you to do, my dear, said I, with <i>The Wanderings +of the Heart</i>, who scarce know yet you have one? nor, till love has +first told you it, or some faithless shepherd has made it ache, canst +thou ever be sure it is so. - <i>Le Dieu m’en garde</i>! said +the girl. - With reason, said I, for if it is a good one, ’tis +pity it should be stolen; ’tis a little treasure to thee, and +gives a better air to your face, than if it was dress’d out with +pearls.</p> +<p>The young girl listened with a submissive attention, holding her +satin purse by its riband in her hand all the time. - ’Tis a very +small one, said I, taking hold of the bottom of it - she held it towards +me - and there is very little in it, my dear, said I; but be but as +good as thou art handsome, and heaven will fill it. I had a parcel +of crowns in my hand to pay for Shakespeare; and, as she had let go +the purse entirely, I put a single one in; and, tying up the riband +in a bow-knot, returned it to her.</p> +<p>The young girl made me more a humble courtesy than a low one: - ’twas +one of those quiet, thankful sinkings, where the spirit bows itself +down, - the body does no more than tell it. I never gave a girl +a crown in my life which gave me half the pleasure.</p> +<p>My advice, my dear, would not have been worth a pin to you, said +I, if I had not given this along with it: but now, when you see the +crown, you’ll remember it; - so don’t, my dear, lay it out +in ribands.</p> +<p>Upon my word, Sir, said the girl, earnestly, I am incapable; - in +saying which, as is usual in little bargains of honour, she gave me +her hand: - <i>En vérité, Monsieur, je mettrai cet argent +àpart</i>, said she.</p> +<p>When a virtuous convention is made betwixt man and woman, it sanctifies +their most private walks: so, notwithstanding it was dusky, yet as both +our roads lay the same way, we made no scruple of walking along the +Quai de Conti together.</p> +<p>She made me a second courtesy in setting off, and before we got twenty +yards from the door, as if she had not done enough before, she made +a sort of a little stop to tell me again - she thank’d me.</p> +<p>It was a small tribute, I told her, which I could not avoid paying +to virtue, and would not be mistaken in the person I had been rendering +it to for the world; - but I see innocence, my dear, in your face, - +and foul befall the man who ever lays a snare in its way!</p> +<p>The girl seem’d affected some way or other with what I said; +- she gave a low sigh: - I found I was not empowered to enquire at all +after it, - so said nothing more till I got to the corner of the Rue +de Nevers, where, we were to part.</p> +<p>- But is this the way, my dear, said I, to the Hotel de Modene? +She told me it was; - or that I might go by the Rue de Gueneguault, +which was the next turn. - Then I’ll go, my dear, by the Rue de +Gueneguault, said I, for two reasons; first, I shall please myself, +and next, I shall give you the protection of my company as far on your +way as I can. The girl was sensible I was civil - and said, she +wished the Hotel de Modene was in the Rue de St. Pierre. - You live +there? said I. - She told me she was <i>fille de chambre</i> to Madame +R-. - Good God! said I, ’tis the very lady for whom I have brought +a letter from Amiens. - The girl told me that Madame R-, she believed, +expected a stranger with a letter, and was impatient to see him: - so +I desired the girl to present my compliments to Madame R-, and say, +I would certainly wait upon her in the morning.</p> +<p>We stood still at the corner of the Rue de Nevers whilst this pass’d. +- We then stopped a moment whilst she disposed of her <i>Egarements +du Coeur</i> &c. more commodiously than carrying them in her hand +- they were two volumes: so I held the second for her whilst she put +the first into her pocket; and then she held her pocket, and I put in +the other after it.</p> +<p>’Tis sweet to feel by what fine spun threads our affections +are drawn together.</p> +<p>We set off afresh, and as she took her third step, the girl put her +hand within my arm. - I was just bidding her, - but she did it of herself, +with that undeliberating simplicity, which show’d it was out of +her head that she had never seen me before. For my own part, I +felt the conviction of consanguinity so strongly, that I could not help +turning half round to look in her face, and see if I could trace out +any thing in it of a family likeness. - Tut! said I, are we not all +relations?</p> +<p>When we arrived at the turning up of the Rue de Gueneguault, I stopp’d +to bid her adieu for good and all: the girl would thank me again for +my company and kindness. - She bid me adieu twice. - I repeated it as +often; and so cordial was the parting between us, that had it happened +any where else, I’m not sure but I should have signed it with +a kiss of charity, as warm and holy as an apostle.</p> +<p>But in Paris, as none kiss each other but the men, - I did, what +amounted to the same thing -</p> +<p>- I bid God bless her.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When I got home to my hotel, La Fleur told me I had been enquired +after by the Lieutenant de Police. - The deuce take it! said I, - I +know the reason. It is time the reader should know it, for in +the order of things in which it happened, it was omitted: not that it +was out of my head; but that had I told it then it might have been forgotten +now; - and now is the time I want it.</p> +<p>I had left London with so much precipitation, that it never enter’d +my mind that we were at war with France; and had reached Dover, and +looked through my glass at the hills beyond Boulogne, before the idea +presented itself; and with this in its train, that there was no getting +there without a passport. Go but to the end of a street, I have +a mortal aversion for returning back no wiser than I set out; and as +this was one of the greatest efforts I had ever made for knowledge, +I could less bear the thoughts of it: so hearing the Count de - had +hired the packet, I begg’d he would take me in his suite. +The Count had some little knowledge of me, so made little or no difficulty, +- only said, his inclination to serve me could reach no farther than +Calais, as he was to return by way of Brussels to Paris; however, when +I had once pass’d there, I might get to Paris without interruption; +but that in Paris I must make friends and shift for myself. - Let me +get to Paris, Monsieur le Count, said I, - and I shall do very well. +So I embark’d, and never thought more of the matter.</p> +<p>When La Fleur told me the Lieutenant de Police had been enquiring +after me, - the thing instantly recurred; - and by the time La Fleur +had well told me, the master of the hotel came into my room to tell +me the same thing, with this addition to it, that my passport had been +particularly asked after: the master of the hotel concluded with saying, +He hoped I had one. - Not I, faith! said I.</p> +<p>The master of the hotel retired three steps from me, as from an infected +person, as I declared this; - and poor La Fleur advanced three steps +towards me, and with that sort of movement which a good soul makes to +succour a distress’d one: - the fellow won my heart by it; and +from that single trait I knew his character as perfectly, and could +rely upon it as firmly, as if he had served me with fidelity for seven +years.</p> +<p><i>Mon seigneur</i>! cried the master of the hotel; but recollecting +himself as he made the exclamation, he instantly changed the tone of +it. - If Monsieur, said he, has not a passport (<i>apparemment</i>) +in all likelihood he has friends in Paris who can procure him one. - +Not that I know of, quoth I, with an air of indifference. - Then <i>certes</i>, +replied he, you’ll be sent to the Bastile or the Chatelet <i>au +moins</i>. - Poo! said I, the King of France is a good natur’d +soul: - he’ll hurt nobody. - <i>Cela n’empêche pas</i>, +said he - you will certainly be sent to the Bastile to-morrow morning. +- But I’ve taken your lodgings for a month, answer’d I, +and I’ll not quit them a day before the time for all the kings +of France in the world. La Fleur whispered in my ear, That nobody +could oppose the king of France.</p> +<p><i>Pardi</i>! said my host, <i>ces Messieurs Anglois sont des gens +très extraordinaires</i>; - and, having both said and sworn it, +- he went out.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. THE HOTEL AT PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I could not find in my heart to torture La Fleur’s with a serious +look upon the subject of my embarrassment, which was the reason I had +treated it so cavalierly: and to show him how light it lay upon my mind, +I dropt the subject entirely; and whilst he waited upon me at supper, +talk’d to him with more than usual gaiety about Paris, and of +the Opéra Comique. - La Fleur had been there himself, and had +followed me through the streets as far as the bookseller’s shop; +but seeing me come out with the young <i>fille de chambre</i>, and that +we walk’d down the Quai de Conti together, La Fleur deem’d +it unnecessary to follow me a step further; - so making his own reflections +upon it, he took a shorter cut, - and got to the hotel in time to be +inform’d of the affair of the police against my arrival.</p> +<p>As soon as the honest creature had taken away, and gone down to sup +himself, I then began to think a little seriously about my situation. +-</p> +<p>- And here, I know, Eugenius, thou wilt smile at the remembrance +of a short dialogue which passed betwixt us the moment I was going to +set out: - I must tell it here.</p> +<p>Eugenius, knowing that I was as little subject to be overburden’d +with money as thought, had drawn me aside to interrogate me how much +I had taken care for. Upon telling him the exact sum, Eugenius +shook his head, and said it would not do; so pull’d out his purse +in order to empty it into mine. - I’ve enough in conscience, Eugenius, +said I. - Indeed, Yorick, you have not, replied Eugenius; I know France +and Italy better than you. - But you don’t consider, Eugenius, +said I, refusing his offer, that before I have been three days in Paris, +I shall take care to say or do something or other for which I shall +get clapp’d up into the Bastile, and that I shall live there a +couple of months entirely at the king of France’s expense. - I +beg pardon, said Eugenius drily: really I had forgot that resource.</p> +<p>Now the event I treated gaily came seriously to my door.</p> +<p>Is it folly, or nonchalance, or philosophy, or pertinacity - or what +is it in me, that, after all, when La Fleur had gone down stairs, and +I was quite alone, I could not bring down my mind to think of it otherwise +than I had then spoken of it to Eugenius?</p> +<p>- And as for the Bastile; the terror is in the word. - Make the most +of it you can, said I to myself, the Bastile is but another word for +a tower; - and a tower is but another word for a house you can’t +get out of. - Mercy on the gouty! for they are in it twice a year. - +But with nine livres a day, and pen and ink, and paper, and patience, +albeit a man can’t get out, he may do very well within, - at least +for a mouth or six weeks; at the end of which, if he is a harmless fellow, +his innocence appears, and he comes out a better and wiser man than +he went in.</p> +<p>I had some occasion (I forget what) to step into the court-yard, +as I settled this account; and remember I walk’d down stairs in +no small triumph with the conceit of my reasoning. - Beshrew the sombre +pencil! said I, vauntingly - for I envy not its powers, which paints +the evils of life with so hard and deadly a colouring. The mind +sits terrified at the objects she has magnified herself, and blackened: +reduce them to their proper size and hue, she overlooks them. - ’Tis +true, said I, correcting the proposition, - the Bastile is not an evil +to be despised; - but strip it of its towers - fill up the fosse, - +unbarricade the doors - call it simply a confinement, and suppose ’tis +some tyrant of a distemper - and not of a man, which holds you in it, +- the evil vanishes, and you bear the other half without complaint.</p> +<p>I was interrupted in the heyday of this soliloquy, with a voice which +I took to be of a child, which complained “it could not get out.” +- I look’d up and down the passage, and seeing neither man, woman, +nor child, I went out without farther attention.</p> +<p>In my return back through the passage, I heard the same words repeated +twice over; and, looking up, I saw it was a starling hung in a little +cage. - “I can’t get out, - I can’t get out,” +said the starling.</p> +<p>I stood looking at the bird: and to every person who came through +the passage it ran fluttering to the side towards which they approach’d +it, with the same lamentation of its captivity. “I can’t +get out,” said the starling. - God help thee! said I, but I’ll +let thee out, cost what it will; so I turned about the cage to get to +the door: it was twisted and double twisted so fast with wire, there +was no getting it open without pulling the cage to pieces. - I took +both hands to it.</p> +<p>The bird flew to the place where I was attempting his deliverance, +and thrusting his head through the trellis pressed his breast against +it as if impatient. - I fear, poor creature! said I, I cannot set thee +at liberty. - “No,” said the starling, - “I +can’t get out - I can’t get out,” said the starling.</p> +<p>I vow I never had my affections more tenderly awakened; nor do I +remember an incident in my life, where the dissipated spirits, to which +my reason had been a bubble, were so suddenly call’d home. +Mechanical as the notes were, yet so true in tune to nature were they +chanted, that in one moment they overthrew all my systematic reasonings +upon the Bastile; and I heavily walked upstairs, unsaying every word +I had said in going down them.</p> +<p>Disguise thyself as thou wilt, still, Slavery! said I, - still thou +art a bitter draught! and though thousands in all ages have been made +to drink of thee, thou art no less bitter on that account. - ’Tis +thou, thrice sweet and gracious goddess, addressing myself to Liberty, +whom all in public or in private worship, whose taste is grateful, and +ever will be so, till Nature herself shall change. - No <i>tint</i> +of words can spot thy snowy mantle, or chymic power turn thy sceptre +into iron: - with thee to smile upon him as he eats his crust, the swain +is happier than his monarch, from whose court thou art exiled! - Gracious +Heaven! cried I, kneeling down upon the last step but one in my ascent, +grant me but health, thou great Bestower of it, and give me but this +fair goddess as my companion, - and shower down thy mitres, if it seems +good unto thy divine providence, upon those heads which are aching for +them!</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE CAPTIVE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The bird in his cage pursued me into my room; I sat down close to +my table, and leaning my head upon my hand, I began to figure to myself +the miseries of confinement. I was in a right frame for it, and +so I gave full scope to my imagination.</p> +<p>I was going to begin with the millions of my fellow-creatures born +to no inheritance but slavery: but finding, however affecting the picture +was, that I could not bring it near me, and that the multitude of sad +groups in it did but distract me. -</p> +<p>- I took a single captive, and having first shut him up in his dungeon, +I then look’d through the twilight of his grated door to take +his picture.</p> +<p>I beheld his body half-wasted away with long expectation and confinement, +and felt what kind of sickness of the heart it was which arises from +hope deferr’d. Upon looking nearer I saw him pale and feverish: +in thirty years the western breeze had not once fann’d his blood; +- he had seen no sun, no moon, in all that time - nor had the voice +of friend or kinsman breathed through his lattice. - His children -</p> +<p>But here my heart began to bleed - and I was forced to go on with +another part of the portrait.</p> +<p>He was sitting upon the ground upon a little straw, in the furthest +corner of his dungeon, which was alternately his chair and bed: a little +calendar of small sticks were laid at the head, notch’d all over +with the dismal days and nights he had passed there; - he had one of +these little sticks in his hand, and, with a rusty nail he was etching +another day of misery to add to the heap. As I darkened the little +light he had, he lifted up a hopeless eye towards the door, then cast +it down, - shook his head, and went on with his work of affliction. +I heard his chains upon his legs, as he turned his body to lay his little +stick upon the bundle. - He gave a deep sigh. - I saw the iron enter +into his soul! - I burst into tears. - I could not sustain the picture +of confinement which my fancy had drawn. - I started up from my chair, +and calling La Fleur: I bid him bespeak me a remise, and have it ready +at the door of the hotel by nine in the morning.</p> +<p>I’ll go directly, said I, myself to Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul.</p> +<p>La Fleur would have put me to bed; but - not willing he should see +anything upon my cheek which would cost the honest fellow a heart-ache, +- I told him I would go to bed by myself, - and bid him go do the same.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE STARLING. ROAD TO VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I got into my remise the hour I proposed: La Fleur got up behind, +and I bid the coachman make the best of his way to Versailles.</p> +<p>As there was nothing in this road, or rather nothing which I look +for in travelling, I cannot fill up the blank better than with a short +history of this self-same bird, which became the subject of the last +chapter.</p> +<p>Whilst the Honourable Mr. - was waiting for a wind at Dover, it had +been caught upon the cliffs, before it could well fly, by an English +lad who was his groom; who, not caring to destroy it, had taken it in +his breast into the packet; - and, by course of feeding it, and taking +it once under his protection, in a day or two grew fond of it, and got +it safe along with him to Paris.</p> +<p>At Paris the lad had laid out a livre in a little cage for the starling, +and as he had little to do better the five months his master staid there, +he taught it, in his mother’s tongue, the four simple words - +(and no more) - to which I own’d myself so much its debtor.</p> +<p>Upon his master’s going on for Italy, the lad had given it +to the master of the hotel. But his little song for liberty being +in an <i>unknown</i> language at Paris, the bird had little or no store +set by him: so La Fleur bought both him and his cage for me for a bottle +of Burgundy.</p> +<p>In my return from Italy I brought him with me to the country in whose +language he had learned his notes; and telling the story of him to Lord +A-, Lord A- begg’d the bird of me; - in a week Lord A- gave him +to Lord B-; Lord B- made a present of him to Lord C-; and Lord C-’s +gentleman sold him to Lord D-’s for a shilling; Lord D- gave him +to Lord E-; and so on - half round the alphabet. From that rank +he pass’d into the lower house, and pass’d the hands of +as many commoners. But as all these wanted to <i>get in</i>, and +my bird wanted to <i>get out</i>, he had almost as little store set +by him in London as in Paris.</p> +<p>It is impossible but many of my readers must have heard of him; and +if any by mere chance have ever seen him, I beg leave to inform them, +that that bird was my bird, or some vile copy set up to represent him.</p> +<p>I have nothing farther to add upon him, but that from that time to +this I have borne this poor starling as the crest to my arms. - Thus:</p> +<p>[Picture which cannot be reproduced]</p> +<p>- And let the herald’s officers twist his neck about if they +dare.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE ADDRESS. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I should not like to have my enemy take a view of my mind when I +am going to ask protection of any man; for which reason I generally +endeavour to protect myself; but this going to Monsieur le Duc de C- +was an act of compulsion; had it been an act of choice, I should have +done it, I suppose, like other people.</p> +<p>How many mean plans of dirty address, as I went along, did my servile +heart form! I deserved the Bastile for every one of them.</p> +<p>Then nothing would serve me when I got within sight of Versailles, +but putting words and sentences together, and conceiving attitudes and +tones to wreath myself into Monsieur le Duc de C-’s good graces. +- This will do, said I. - Just as well, retorted I again, as a coat +carried up to him by an adventurous tailor, without taking his measure. +Fool! continued I, - see Monsieur le Duc’s face first; - observe +what character is written in it; - take notice in what posture he stands +to hear you; - mark the turns and expressions of his body and limbs; +- and for the tone, - the first sound which comes from his lips will +give it you; and from all these together you’ll compound an address +at once upon the spot, which cannot disgust the Duke; - the ingredients +are his own, and most likely to go down.</p> +<p>Well! said I, I wish it well over. - Coward again! as if man to man +was not equal throughout the whole surface of the globe; and if in the +field - why not face to face in the cabinet too? And trust me, +Yorick, whenever it is not so, man is false to himself and betrays his +own succours ten times where nature does it once. Go to the Duc +de C- with the Bastile in thy looks; - my life for it, thou wilt be +sent back to Paris in half an hour with an escort.</p> +<p>I believe so, said I. - Then I’ll go to the Duke, by heaven! +with all the gaiety and debonairness in the world. -</p> +<p>- And there you are wrong again, replied I. - A heart at ease, Yorick, +flies into no extremes - ’tis ever on its centre. - Well! well! +cried I, as the coachman turn’d in at the gates, I find I shall +do very well: and by the time he had wheel’d round the court, +and brought me up to the door, I found myself so much the better for +my own lecture, that I neither ascended the steps like a victim to justice, +who was to part with life upon the top most, - nor did I mount them +with a skip and a couple of strides, as I do when I fly up, Eliza! to +thee to meet it.</p> +<p>As I entered the door of the saloon I was met by a person, who possibly +might be the <i>maître</i> <i>d’hôtel</i>, but had +more the air of one of the under secretaries, who told me the Duc de +C- was busy. - I am utterly ignorant, said I, of the forms of obtaining +an audience, being an absolute stranger, and what is worse in the present +conjuncture of affairs, being an Englishman too. - He replied, that +did not increase the difficulty. - I made him a slight bow, and told +him, I had something of importance to say to Monsieur le Duc. +The secretary look’d towards the stairs, as if he was about to +leave me to carry up this account to some one. - But I must not mislead +you, said I, - for what I have to say is of no manner of importance +to Monsieur le Duc de C- - but of great importance to myself. - <i>C’est +une autre affaire</i>, replied he. - Not at all, said I, to a man of +gallantry. - But pray, good sir, continued I, when can a stranger hope +to have access? - In not less than two hours, said he, looking at his +watch. The number of equipages in the court-yard seemed to justify +the calculation, that I could have no nearer a prospect; - and as walking +backwards and forwards in the saloon, without a soul to commune with, +was for the time as bad as being in the Bastile itself, I instantly +went back to my remise, and bid the coachman drive me to the <i>Cordon +Bleu</i>, which was the nearest hotel.</p> +<p>I think there is a fatality in it; - I seldom go to the place I set +out for.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>LE PATISSIER. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Before I had got half way down the street I changed my mind: as I +am at Versailles, thought I, I might as well take a view of the town; +so I pull’d the cord, and ordered the coachman to drive round +some of the principal streets. - I suppose the town is not very large, +said I. - The coachman begg’d pardon for setting me right, and +told me it was very superb, and that numbers of the first dukes and +marquises and counts had hotels. - The Count de B-, of whom the bookseller +at the Quai de Conti had spoke so handsomely the night before, came +instantly into my mind. - And why should I not go, thought I, to the +Count de B-, who has so high an idea of English books and English men +- and tell him my story? so I changed my mind a second time. - In truth +it was the third; for I had intended that day for Madame de R-, in the +Rue St. Pierre, and had devoutly sent her word by her <i>fille de chambre</i> +that I would assuredly wait upon her; - but I am governed by circumstances; +- I cannot govern them: so seeing a man standing with a basket on the +other side of the street, as if he had something to sell, I bid La Fleur +go up to him, and enquire for the Count’s hotel.</p> +<p>La Fleur returned a little pale; and told me it was a Chevalier de +St. Louis selling pâtés. - It is impossible, La Fleur, +said I. - La Fleur could no more account for the phenomenon than myself; +but persisted in his story: he had seen the croix set in gold, with +its red riband, he said, tied to his buttonhole - and had looked into +the basket and seen the pâtés which the Chevalier was selling; +so could not be mistaken in that.</p> +<p>Such a reverse in man’s life awakens a better principle than +curiosity: I could not help looking for some time at him as I sat in +the remise: - the more I look’d at him, his croix, and his basket, +the stronger they wove themselves into my brain. - I got out of the +remise, and went towards him.</p> +<p>He was begirt with a clean linen apron which fell below his knees, +and with a sort of a bib that went half way up his breast; upon the +top of this, but a little below the hem, hung his croix. His basket +of little pâtés was covered over with a white damask napkin; +another of the same kind was spread at the bottom; and there was a look +of <i>propreté</i> and neatness throughout, that one might have +bought his pâtés of him, as much from appetite as sentiment.</p> +<p>He made an offer of them to neither; but stood still with them at +the corner of an hotel, for those to buy who chose it without solicitation.</p> +<p>He was about forty-eight; - of a sedate look, something approaching +to gravity. I did not wonder. - I went up rather to the basket +than him, and having lifted up the napkin, and taking one of his pâtés +into my hand, - I begg’d he would explain the appearance which +affected me.</p> +<p>He told me in a few words, that the best part of his life had passed +in the service, in which, after spending a small patrimony, he had obtained +a company and the croix with it; but that, at the conclusion of the +last peace, his regiment being reformed, and the whole corps, with those +of some other regiments, left without any provision, he found himself +in a wide world without friends, without a livre, - and indeed, said +he, without anything but this, - (pointing, as he said it, to his croix). +- The poor Chevalier won my pity, and he finished the scene with winning +my esteem too.</p> +<p>The king, he said, was the most generous of princes, but his generosity +could neither relieve nor reward everyone, and it was only his misfortune +to be amongst the number. He had a little wife, he said, whom +he loved, who did the <i>pâtisserie</i>; and added, he felt no +dishonour in defending her and himself from want in this way - unless +Providence had offer’d him a better.</p> +<p>It would be wicked to withhold a pleasure from the good, in passing +over what happen’d to this poor Chevalier of St. Louis about nine +months after.</p> +<p>It seems he usually took his stand near the iron gates which lead +up to the palace, and as his croix had caught the eyes of numbers, numbers +had made the same enquiry which I had done. - He had told them the same +story, and always with so much modesty and good sense, that it had reach’d +at last the king’s ears; - who, hearing the Chevalier had been +a gallant officer, and respected by the whole regiment as a man of honour +and integrity, - he broke up his little trade by a pension of fifteen +hundred livres a year.</p> +<p>As I have told this to please the reader, I beg he will allow me +to relate another, out of its order, to please myself: - the two stories +reflect light upon each other, - and ’tis a pity they should be +parted.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE SWORD. RENNES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When states and empires have their periods of declension, and feel +in their turns what distress and poverty is, - I stop not to tell the +causes which gradually brought the house d’E-, in Brittany, into +decay. The Marquis d’E- had fought up against his condition +with great firmness; wishing to preserve, and still show to the world, +some little fragments of what his ancestors had been; - their indiscretions +had put it out of his power. There was enough left for the little +exigencies of <i>obscurity</i>. - But he had two boys who looked up +to him for <i>light</i>; - he thought they deserved it. He had +tried his sword - it could not open the way, - the <i>mounting</i> was +too expensive, - and simple economy was not a match for it: - there +was no resource but commerce.</p> +<p>In any other province in France, save Brittany, this was smiting +the root for ever of the little tree his pride and affection wish’d +to see re-blossom. - But in Brittany, there being a provision for this, +he avail’d himself of it; and, taking an occasion when the states +were assembled at Rennes, the Marquis, attended with his two boys, entered +the court; and having pleaded the right of an ancient law of the duchy, +which, though seldom claim’d, he said, was no less in force, he +took his sword from his side: - Here, said he, take it; and be trusty +guardians of it, till better times put me in condition to reclaim it.</p> +<p>The president accepted the Marquis’s sword: he staid a few +minutes to see it deposited in the archives of his house - and departed.</p> +<p>The Marquis and his whole family embarked the next clay for Martinico, +and in about nineteen or twenty years of successful application to business, +with some unlook’d for bequests from distant branches of his house, +return home to reclaim his nobility, and to support it.</p> +<p>It was an incident of good fortune which will never happen to any +traveller but a Sentimental one, that I should be at Rennes at the very +time of this solemn requisition: I call it solemn; - it was so to me.</p> +<p>The Marquis entered the court with his whole family: he supported +his lady, - his eldest son supported his sister, and his youngest was +at the other extreme of the line next his mother; - he put his handkerchief +to his face twice. -</p> +<p>- There was a dead silence. When the Marquis had approached +within six paces of the tribunal, he gave the Marchioness to his youngest +son, and advancing three steps before his family, - he reclaim’d +his sword. His sword was given him, and the moment he got it into +his hand he drew it almost out of the scabbard: - ’twas the shining +face of a friend he had once given up - he look’d attentively +along it, beginning at the hilt, as if to see whether it was the same, +- when, observing a little rust which it had contracted near the point, +he brought it near his eye, and bending his head down over it, - I think +- I saw a tear fall upon the place. I could not be deceived by +what followed.</p> +<p>“I shall find,” said he, “some <i>other way</i> +to get it off.”</p> +<p>When the Marquis had said this, he returned his sword into its scabbard, +made a bow to the guardians of it, - and, with his wife and daughter, +and his two sons following him, walk’d out.</p> +<p>O, how I envied him his feelings!</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I found no difficulty in getting admittance to Monsieur le Count +de B-. The set of Shakespeares was laid upon the table, and he +was tumbling them over. I walk’d up close to the table, +and giving first such a look at the books as to make him conceive I +knew what they were, - I told him I had come without any one to present +me, knowing I should meet with a friend in his apartment, who, I trusted, +would do it for me: - it is my countryman, the great Shakespeare, said +I, pointing to his works - <i>et ayez la bouté, mon cher ami</i>, +apostrophizing his spirit, added I, <i>de me faire cet honneur-là</i>. +-</p> +<p>The Count smiled at the singularity of the introduction; and seeing +I look’d a little pale and sickly, insisted upon my taking an +arm-chair; so I sat down; and to save him conjectures upon a visit so +out of all rule, I told him simply of the incident in the bookseller’s +shop, and how that had impelled me rather to go to him with the story +of a little embarrassment I was under, than to any other man in France. +- And what is your embarrassment? let me hear it, said the Count. +So I told him the story just as I have told it the reader.</p> +<p>- And the master of my hotel, said I, as I concluded it, will needs +have it, Monsieur le Count, that I shall be sent to the Bastile; - but +I have no apprehensions, continued I; - for, in falling into the hands +of the most polish’d people in the world, and being conscious +I was a true man, and not come to spy the nakedness of the land, I scarce +thought I lay at their mercy. - It does not suit the gallantry of the +French, Monsieur le Count, said I, to show it against invalids.</p> +<p>An animated blush came into the Count de B-’s cheeks as I spoke +this. - <i>Ne craignez rien</i> - Don’t fear, said he. - Indeed, +I don’t, replied I again. - Besides, continued I, a little sportingly, +I have come laughing all the way from London to Paris, and I do not +think Monsieur le Duc de Choiseul is such an enemy to mirth as to send +me back crying for my pains.</p> +<p>- My application to you, Monsieur le Count de B- (making him a low +bow), is to desire he will not.</p> +<p>The Count heard me with great good nature, or I had not said half +as much, - and once or twice said, - <i>C’est bien dit</i>. +So I rested my cause there - and determined to say no more about it.</p> +<p>The Count led the discourse: we talk’d of indifferent things, +- of books, and politics, and men; - and then of women. - God bless +them all! said I, after much discourse about them - there is not a man +upon earth who loves them so much as I do: after all the foibles I have +seen, and all the satires I have read against them, still I love them; +being firmly persuaded that a man, who has not a sort of affection for +the whole sex, is incapable of ever loving a single one as he ought.</p> +<p><i>Eh bien</i>! <i>Monsieur l’Anglois</i>, said the Count, +gaily; - you are not come to spy the nakedness of the land; - I believe +you; - <i>ni encore</i>, I dare say, <i>that</i> of our women! - But +permit me to conjecture, - if, <i>par hazard</i>, they fell into your +way, that the prospect would not affect you.</p> +<p>I have something within me which cannot bear the shock of the least +indecent insinuation: in the sportability of chit-chat I have often +endeavoured to conquer it, and with infinite pain have hazarded a thousand +things to a dozen of the sex together, - the least of which I could +not venture to a single one to gain heaven.</p> +<p>Excuse me, Monsieur le Count, said I; - as for the nakedness of your +land, if I saw it, I should cast my eyes over it with tears in them; +- and for that of your women (blushing at the idea he had excited in +me) I am so evangelical in this, and have such a fellow-feeling for +whatever is weak about them, that I would cover it with a garment if +I knew how to throw it on: - But I could wish, continued I, to spy the +nakedness of their hearts, and through the different disguises of customs, +climates, and religion, find out what is good in them to fashion my +own by: - and therefore am I come.</p> +<p>It is for this reason, Monsieur le Count, continued I, that I have +not seen the Palais Royal, - nor the Luxembourg, - nor the Façade +of the Louvre, - nor have attempted to swell the catalogues we have +of pictures, statues, and churches. - I conceive every fair being as +a temple, and would rather enter in, and see the original drawings and +loose sketches hung up in it, than the Transfiguration of Raphael itself.</p> +<p>The thirst of this, continued I, as impatient as that which inflames +the breast of the connoisseur, has led me from my own home into France, +- and from France will lead me through Italy; - ’tis a quiet journey +of the heart in pursuit of Nature, and those affections which arise +out of her, which make us love each other, - and the world, better than +we do.</p> +<p>The Count said a great many civil things to me upon the occasion; +and added very politely, how much he stood obliged to Shakespeare for +making me known to him. - But <i>a propos</i>, said he; - Shakespeare +is full of great things; - he forgot a small punctilio of announcing +your name: - it puts you under a necessity of doing it yourself.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>There is not a more perplexing affair in life to me, than to set +about telling any one who I am, - for there is scarce any body I cannot +give a better account of than myself; and I have often wished I could +do it in a single word, - and have an end of it. It was the only +time and occasion in my life I could accomplish this to any purpose; +- for Shakespeare lying upon the table, and recollecting I was in his +books, I took up Hamlet, and turning immediately to the grave-diggers’ +scene in the fifth act, I laid my finger upon Yorick, and advancing +the book to the Count, with my finger all the way over the name, - <i>Me +voici</i>! said I.</p> +<p>Now, whether the idea of poor Yorick’s skull was put out of +the Count’s mind by the reality of my own, or by what magic he +could drop a period of seven or eight hundred years, makes nothing in +this account; - ’tis certain the French conceive better than they +combine; - I wonder at nothing in this world, and the less at this; +inasmuch as one of the first of our own Church, for whose candour and +paternal sentiments I have the highest veneration, fell into the same +mistake in the very same case: - “He could not bear,” he +said, “to look into the sermons wrote by the King of Denmark’s +jester.” Good, my Lord said I; but there are two Yoricks. +The Yorick your Lordship thinks of, has been dead and buried eight hundred +years ago; he flourished in Horwendillus’s court; - the other +Yorick is myself, who have flourished, my Lord, in no court. - He shook +his head. Good God! said I, you might as well confound Alexander +the Great with Alexander the Coppersmith, my lord! - “’Twas +all one,” he replied. -</p> +<p>- If Alexander, King of Macedon, could have translated your Lordship, +said I, I’m sure your Lordship would not have said so.</p> +<p>The poor Count de B- fell but into the same <i>error</i>.</p> +<p>- <i>Et, Monsieur, est-il Yorick</i>? cried the Count. - <i>Je le +suis</i>, said I. - <i>Vous? - Moi, - moi qui ai l’honneur de +vous parler, Monsieur le Comte</i>. - <i>Mon Dieu</i>! said he, embracing +me, - <i>Vous êtes Yorick</i>!</p> +<p>The Count instantly put the Shakespeare into his pocket, and left +me alone in his room.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I could not conceive why the Count de B- had gone so abruptly out +of the room, any more than I could conceive why he had put the Shakespeare +into his pocket. -</p> +<p><i>Mysteries which must explain themselves are not worth the loss +of time which a conjecture about them takes up</i>: ’twas better +to read Shakespeare; so taking up “<i>Much Ado About</i> <i>Nothing</i>,” +I transported myself instantly from the chair I sat in to Messina in +Sicily, and got so busy with Don Pedro, and Benedict, and Beatrice, +that I thought not of Versailles, the Count, or the passport.</p> +<p>Sweet pliability of man’s spirit, that can at once surrender +itself to illusions, which cheat expectation and sorrow of their weary +moments! - Long, - long since had ye number’d out my days, had +I not trod so great a part of them upon this enchanted ground. +When my way is too rough for my feet, or too steep for my strength, +I get off it, to some smooth velvet path, which Fancy has scattered +over with rosebuds of delights; and having taken a few turns in it, +come back strengthened and refresh’d. - When evils press sore +upon me, and there is no retreat from them in this world, then I take +a new course; - I leave it, - and as I have a clearer idea of the Elysian +fields than I have of heaven, I force myself, like AEneas, into them. +- I see him meet the pensive shade of his forsaken Dido, and wish to +recognise it; - I see the injured spirit wave her head, and turn off +silent from the author of her miseries and dishonours; - I lose the +feelings for myself in hers, and in those affections which were wont +to make me mourn for her when I was at school.</p> +<p><i>Surely this is not walking in a vain shadow - nor does man disquiet +himself</i> in vain<i> by it</i>: - he oftener does so in trusting the +issue of his commotions to reason only. - I can safely say for myself, +I was never able to conquer any one single bad sensation in my heart +so decisively, as beating up as fast as I could for some kindly and +gentle sensation to fight it upon its own ground</p> +<p>When I had got to the end of the third act the Count de B- entered, +with my passport in his hand. Monsieur le Duc de C-, said the +Count, is as good a prophet, I dare say, as he is a statesman. +<i>Un homme qui rit</i>, said the Duke, <i>ne sera jamais dangereux</i>. +- Had it been for any one but the king’s jester, added the Count, +I could not have got it these two hours. - <i>Pardonnez moi</i>, Monsieur +le Count, said I - I am not the king’s jester. - But you are Yorick? +- Yes. - <i>Et vous plaisantez</i>? - I answered, Indeed I did jest, +- but was not paid for it; - ’twas entirely at my own expense.</p> +<p>We have no jester at court, Monsieur le Count, said I; the last we +had was in the licentious reign of Charles II.; - since which time our +manners have been so gradually refining, that our court at present is +so full of patriots, who wish for <i>nothing</i> but the honours and +wealth of their country; - and our ladies are all so chaste, so spotless, +so good, so devout, - there is nothing for a jester to make a jest of. +-</p> +<p><i>Voila un persiflage</i>! cried the Count.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE PASSPORT. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>As the passport was directed to all lieutenant-governors, governors, +and commandants of cities, generals of armies, justiciaries, and all +officers of justice, to let Mr. Yorick the king’s jester, and +his baggage, travel quietly along, I own the triumph of obtaining the +passport was not a little tarnish’d by the figure I cut in it. +- But there is nothing unmix’d in this world; and some of the +gravest of our divines have carried it so far as to affirm, that enjoyment +itself was attended even with a sigh, - and that the greatest <i>they +knew of</i> terminated, <i>in a general way</i>, in little better than +a convulsion.</p> +<p>I remember the grave and learned Bevoriskius, in his Commentary upon +the Generations from Adam, very naturally breaks off in the middle of +a note to give an account to the world of a couple of sparrows upon +the out-edge of his window, which had incommoded him all the time he +wrote, and at last had entirely taken him off from his genealogy.</p> +<p>- ’Tis strange! writes Bevoriskius; but the facts are certain, +for I have had the curiosity to mark them down one by one with my pen; +- but the cock sparrow, during the little time that I could have finished +the other half of this note, has actually interrupted me with the reiteration +of his caresses three-and-twenty times and a half.</p> +<p>How merciful, adds Bevoriskius, is heaven to his creatures!</p> +<p>Ill fated Yorick! that the gravest of thy brethren should be able +to write that to the world, which stains thy face with crimson to copy, +even in thy study.</p> +<p>But this is nothing to my travels. - So I twice, - twice beg pardon +for it.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>CHARACTER. VERSAILLES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>And how do you find the French? said the Count de B-, after he had +given me the passport.</p> +<p>The reader may suppose, that after so obliging a proof of courtesy, +I could not be at a loss to say something handsome to the enquiry.</p> +<p><i>- Mais passe, pour cela</i>. - Speak frankly, said he: do you +find all the urbanity in the French which the world give us the honour +of? - I had found every thing, I said, which confirmed it. - <i>Vraiment</i>, +said the Count, <i>les François sont polis</i>. - To an excess, +replied I.</p> +<p>The Count took notice of the word <i>excès</i>; and would +have it I meant more than I said. I defended myself a long time +as well as I could against it. - He insisted I had a reserve, and that +I would speak my opinion frankly.</p> +<p>I believe, Monsieur le Count, said I, that man has a certain compass, +as well as an instrument; and that the social and other calls have occasion +by turns for every key in him; so that if you begin a note too high +or too low, there must be a want either in the upper or under part, +to fill up the system of harmony. - The Count de B- did not understand +music, so desired me to explain it some other way. A polish’d +nation, my dear Count, said I, makes every one its debtor: and besides, +Urbanity itself, like the fair sex, has so many charms, it goes against +the heart to say it can do ill; and yet, I believe, there is but a certain +line of perfection, that man, take him altogether, is empower’d +to arrive at: - if he gets beyond, he rather exchanges qualities than +gets them. I must not presume to say how far this has affected +the French in the subject we are speaking of; - but, should it ever +be the case of the English, in the progress of their refinements, to +arrive at the same polish which distinguishes the French, if we did +not lose the <i>politesse du coeur</i>, which inclines men more to humane +actions than courteous ones, - we should at least lose that distinct +variety and originality of character, which distinguishes them, not +only from each other, but from all the world besides.</p> +<p>I had a few of King William’s shillings, as smooth as glass, +in my pocket; and foreseeing they would be of use in the illustration +of my hypothesis, I had got them into my hand when I had proceeded so +far: -</p> +<p>See, Monsieur le Count, said I, rising up, and laying them before +him upon the table, - by jingling and rubbing one against another for +seventy years together in one body’s pocket or another’s, +they are become so much alike, you can scarce distinguish one shilling +from another.</p> +<p>The English, like ancient medals, kept more apart, and passing but +few people’s hands, preserve the first sharpnesses which the fine +hand of Nature has given them; - they are not so pleasant to feel, - +but in return the legend is so visible, that at the first look you see +whose image and superscription they bear. - But the French, Monsieur +le Count, added I (wishing to soften what I had said), have so many +excellences, they can the better spare this; - they are a loyal, a gallant, +a generous, an ingenious, and good temper’d people as is under +heaven; - if they have a fault - they are too <i>serious.</i></p> +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! cried the Count, rising out of his chair.</p> +<p><i>Mais vous plaisantez</i>, said he, correcting his exclamation. +- I laid my hand upon my breast, and with earnest gravity assured him +it was my most settled opinion.</p> +<p>The Count said he was mortified he could not stay to hear my reasons, +being engaged to go that moment to dine with the Duc de C-.</p> +<p>But if it is not too far to come to Versailles to eat your soup with +me, I beg, before you leave France, I may have the pleasure of knowing +you retract your opinion, - or, in what manner you support it. - But, +if you do support it, Monsieur Anglois, said he, you must do it with +all your powers, because you have the whole world against you. - I promised +the Count I would do myself the honour of dining with him before I set +out for Italy; - so took my leave.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE TEMPTATION. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When I alighted at the hotel, the porter told me a young woman with +a bandbox had been that moment enquiring for me. - I do not know, said +the porter, whether she is gone away or not. I took the key of +my chamber of him, and went upstairs; and when I had got within ten +steps of the top of the landing before my door, I met her coming easily +down.</p> +<p>It was the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> I had walked along the Quai +de Conti with; Madame de R- had sent her upon some commission to a <i>marchande +des modes</i> within a step or two of the Hôtel de Modene; and +as I had fail’d in waiting upon her, had bid her enquire if I +had left Paris; and if so, whether I had not left a letter addressed +to her.</p> +<p>As the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> was so near my door, she returned +back, and went into the room with me for a moment or two whilst I wrote +a card.</p> +<p>It was a fine still evening in the latter end of the month of May, +- the crimson window curtains (which were of the same colour as those +of the bed) were drawn close: - the sun was setting, and reflected through +them so warm a tint into the fair <i>fille de chambre’s</i> face, +- I thought she blush’d; - the idea of it made me blush myself: +- we were quite alone; and that superinduced a second blush before the +first could get off.</p> +<p>There is a sort of a pleasing half guilty blush, where the blood +is more in fault than the man: - ’tis sent impetuous from the +heart, and virtue flies after it, - not to call it back, but to make +the sensation of it more delicious to the nerves: - ’tis associated. +-</p> +<p>But I’ll not describe it; - I felt something at first within +me which was not in strict unison with the lesson of virtue I had given +her the night before. - I sought five minutes for a card; - I knew I +had not one. - I took up a pen. - I laid it down again; - my hand trembled: +- the devil was in me.</p> +<p>I know as well as any one he is an adversary, whom, if we resist, +he will fly from us; - but I seldom resist him at all; from a terror, +though I may conquer, I may still get a hurt in the combat; - so I give +up the triumph for security; and, instead of thinking to make him fly, +I generally fly myself.</p> +<p>The fair <i>fille de chambre</i> came close up to the bureau where +I was looking for a card - took up first the pen I cast down, then offer’d +to hold me the ink; she offer’d it so sweetly, I was going to +accept it; - but I durst not; - I have nothing, my dear, said I, to +write upon. - Write it, said she, simply, upon anything. -</p> +<p>I was just going to cry out, Then I will write it, fair girl! upon +thy lips. -</p> +<p>If I do, said I, I shall perish; - so I took her by the hand, and +led her to the door, and begg’d she would not forget the lesson +I had given her. - She said, indeed she would not; - and, as she uttered +it with some earnestness, she turn’d about, and gave me both her +hands, closed together, into mine; - it was impossible not to compress +them in that situation; - I wish’d to let them go; and all the +time I held them, I kept arguing within myself against it, - and still +I held them on. - In two minutes I found I had all the battle to fight +over again; - and I felt my legs and every limb about me tremble at +the idea.</p> +<p>The foot of the bed was within a yard and a half of the place where +we were standing. - I had still hold of her hands - and how it happened +I can give no account; but I neither ask’d her - nor drew her +- nor did I think of the bed; - but so it did happen, we both sat down.</p> +<p>I’ll just show you, said the fair <i>fille de chambre</i>, +the little purse I have been making to-day to hold your crown. +So she put her hand into her right pocket, which was next me, and felt +for it some time - then into the left. - “She had lost it.” +- I never bore expectation more quietly; - it was in her right pocket +at last; - she pull’d it out; it was of green taffeta, lined with +a little bit of white quilted satin, and just big enough to hold the +crown: she put it into my hand; - it was pretty; and I held it ten minutes +with the back of my hand resting upon her lap - looking sometimes at +the purse, sometimes on one side of it.</p> +<p>A stitch or two had broke out in the gathers of my stock; the fair +<i>fille de chambre</i>, without saying a word, took out her little +housewife, threaded a small needle, and sew’d it up. - I foresaw +it would hazard the glory of the day; and, as she pass’d her hand +in silence across and across my neck in the manoeuvre, I felt the laurels +shake which fancy had wreath’d about my head.</p> +<p>A strap had given way in her walk, and the buckle of her shoe was +just falling off. - See, said the <i>fille de</i> <i>chambre</i>, holding +up her foot. - I could not, for my soul but fasten the buckle in return, +and putting in the strap, - and lifting up the other foot with it, when +I had done, to see both were right, - in doing it too suddenly, it unavoidably +threw the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> off her centre, - and then -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE CONQUEST.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Yes, - and then -. Ye whose clay-cold heads and luke-warm hearts +can argue down or mask your passions, tell me, what trespass is it that +man should have them? or how his spirit stands answerable to the Father +of spirits but for his conduct under them?</p> +<p>If Nature has so wove her web of kindness, that some threads of love +and desire are entangled with the piece, - must the whole web be rent +in drawing them out? - Whip me such stoics, great Governor of Nature! +said I to myself: - wherever thy providence shall place me for the trials +of my virtue; - whatever is my danger, - whatever is my situation, - +let me feel the movements which rise out of it, and which belong to +me as a man, - and, if I govern them as a good one, I will trust the +issues to thy justice; for thou hast made us, and not we ourselves.</p> +<p>As I finished my address, I raised the fair <i>fille de chambre</i> +up by the hand, and led her out of the room: - she stood by me till +I locked the door and put the key in my pocket, - and then, - the victory +being quite decisive - and not till then, I press’d my lips to +her cheek, and taking her by the hand again, led her safe to the gate +of the hotel.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE MYSTERY. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>If a man knows the heart, he will know it was impossible to go back +instantly to my chamber; - it was touching a cold key with a flat third +to it upon the close of a piece of music, which had call’d forth +my affections: - therefore, when I let go the hand of the <i>fille de +chambre</i>, I remained at the gate of the hotel for some time, looking +at every one who pass’d by, - and forming conjectures upon them, +till my attention got fix’d upon a single object which confounded +all kind of reasoning upon him.</p> +<p>It was a tall figure of a philosophic, serious, adust look, which +passed and repass’d sedately along the street, making a turn of +about sixty paces on each side of the gate of the hotel; - the man was +about fifty-two - had a small cane under his arm - was dress’d +in a dark drab-colour’d coat, waistcoat, and breeches, which seem’d +to have seen some years service: - they were still clean, and there +was a little air of frugal <i>propreté</i> throughout him. +By his pulling off his hat, and his attitude of accosting a good many +in his way, I saw he was asking charity: so I got a sous or two out +of my pocket ready to give him, as he took me in his turn. - He pass’d +by me without asking anything - and yet did not go five steps further +before he ask’d charity of a little woman. - I was much more likely +to have given of the two. - He had scarce done with the woman, when +he pull’d off his hat to another who was coming the same way. +- An ancient gentleman came slowly - and, after him, a young smart one. +- He let them both pass, and ask’d nothing. I stood observing +him half an hour, in which time he had made a dozen turns backwards +and forwards, and found that he invariably pursued the same plan.</p> +<p>There were two things very singular in this, which set my brain to +work, and to no purpose: - the first was, why the man should <i>only</i> +tell his story to the sex; - and, secondly, - what kind of story it +was, and what species of eloquence it could be, which soften’d +the hearts of the women, which he knew ’twas to no purpose to +practise upon the men.</p> +<p>There were two other circumstances, which entangled this mystery; +- the one was, he told every woman what he had to say in her ear, and +in a way which had much more the air of a secret than a petition; - +the other was, it was always successful. - He never stopp’d a +woman, but she pull’d out her purse, and immediately gave him +something.</p> +<p>I could form no system to explain the phenomenon.</p> +<p>I had got a riddle to amuse me for the rest of the evening; so I +walk’d upstairs to my chamber.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE CASE OF CONSCIENCE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I was immediately followed up by the master of the hotel, who came +into my room to tell me I must provide lodgings elsewhere. - How so, +friend? said I. - He answered, I had had a young woman lock’d +up with me two hours that evening in my bedchamber, and ’twas +against the rules of his house. - Very well, said I, we’ll all +part friends then, - for the girl is no worse, - and I am no worse, +- and you will be just as I found you. - It was enough, he said, to +overthrow the credit of his hotel. - <i>Voyez vous</i>, Monsieur, said +he, pointing to the foot of the bed we had been sitting upon. - I own +it had something of the appearance of an evidence; but my pride not +suffering me to enter into any detail of the case, I exhorted him to +let his soul sleep in peace, as I resolved to let mine do that night, +and that I would discharge what I owed him at breakfast.</p> +<p>I should not have minded, Monsieur, said he, if you had had twenty +girls - ’Tis a score more, replied I, interrupting him, than I +ever reckon’d upon - Provided, added he, it had been but in a +morning. - And does the difference of the time of the day at Paris make +a difference in the sin? - It made a difference, he said, in the scandal. +- I like a good distinction in my heart; and cannot say I was intolerably +out of temper with the man. - I own it is necessary, resumed the master +of the hotel, that a stranger at Paris should have the opportunities +presented to him of buying lace and silk stockings and ruffles, <i>et +tout cela</i>; - and ’tis nothing if a woman comes with a band-box. +- O, my conscience! said I, she had one but I never look’d into +it. - Then Monsieur, said he, has bought nothing? - Not one earthly +thing, replied I. - Because, said he, I could recommend one to you who +would use you <i>en conscience</i>. - But I must see her this night, +said I. - He made me a low bow, and walk’d down.</p> +<p>Now shall I triumph over this <i>maître d’hôtel</i>, +cried I, - and what then? Then I shall let him see I know he is +a dirty fellow. - And what then? What then? - I was too near myself +to say it was for the sake of others. - I had no good answer left; - +there was more of spleen than principle in my project, and I was sick +of it before the execution.</p> +<p>In a few minutes the grisette came in with her box of lace. - I’ll +buy nothing, however, said I, within myself.</p> +<p>The grisette would show me everything. - I was hard to please: she +would not seem to see it; she opened her little magazine, and laid all +her laces one after another before me; - unfolded and folded them up +again one by one with the most patient sweetness. - I might buy, - or +not; - she would let me have everything at my own price: - the poor +creature seem’d anxious to get a penny; and laid herself out to +win me, and not so much in a manner which seem’d artful, as in +one I felt simple and caressing.</p> +<p>If there is not a fund of honest gullibility in man, so much the +worse; - my heart relented, and I gave up my second resolution as quietly +as the first. - Why should I chastise one for the trespass of another? +If thou art tributary to this tyrant of an host, thought I, looking +up in her face, so much harder is thy bread.</p> +<p>If I had not had more than four louis d’ors in my purse, there +was no such thing as rising up and showing her the door, till I had +first laid three of them out in a pair of ruffles.</p> +<p>- The master of the hotel will share the profit with her; - no matter, +- then I have only paid as many a poor soul has <i>paid</i> before me, +for an act he <i>could</i> not do, or think of.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE RIDDLE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When La Fleur came up to wait upon me at supper, he told me how sorry +the master of the hotel was for his affront to me in bidding me change +my lodgings.</p> +<p>A man who values a good night’s rest will not lie down with +enmity in his heart, if he can help it. - So I bid La Fleur tell the +master of the hotel, that I was sorry on my side for the occasion I +had given him; - and you may tell him, if you will, La Fleur, added +I, that if the young woman should call again, I shall not see her.</p> +<p>This was a sacrifice not to him, but myself, having resolved, after +so narrow an escape, to run no more risks, but to leave Paris, if it +was possible, with all the virtue I enter’d it.</p> +<p><i>C’est déroger à noblesse</i>, <i>Monsieur</i>, +said La Fleur, making me a bow down to the ground as he said it. - <i>Et +encore</i>, <i>Monsieur</i>, said he, may change his sentiments; - and +if (<i>par hazard</i>) he should like to amuse himself, - I find no +amusement in it, said I, interrupting him. -</p> +<p><i>Mon Dieu</i>! said La Fleur, - and took away.</p> +<p>In an hour’s time he came to put me to bed, and was more than +commonly officious: - something hung upon his lips to say to me, or +ask me, which he could not get off: I could not conceive what it was, +and indeed gave myself little trouble to find it out, as I had another +riddle so much more interesting upon my mind, which was that of the +man’s asking charity before the door of the hotel. - I would have +given anything to have got to the bottom of it; and that, not out of +curiosity, - ’tis so low a principle of enquiry, in general, I +would not purchase the gratification of it with a two-sous piece; - +but a secret, I thought, which so soon and so certainly soften’d +the heart of every woman you came near, was a secret at least equal +to the philosopher’s stone; had I both the Indies, I would have +given up one to have been master of it.</p> +<p>I toss’d and turn’d it almost all night long in my brains +to no manner of purpose; and when I awoke in the morning, I found my +spirits as much troubled with my dreams, as ever the King of Babylon +had been with his; and I will not hesitate to affirm, it would have +puzzled all the wise men of Paris as much as those of Chaldea to have +given its interpretation.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>LE DIMANCHE. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>It was Sunday; and when La Fleur came in, in the morning, with my +coffee and roll and butter, he had got himself so gallantly array’d, +I scarce knew him.</p> +<p>I had covenanted at Montreuil to give him a new hat with a silver +button and loop, and four louis d’ors, <i>pour s’adoniser</i>, +when we got to Paris; and the poor fellow, to do him justice, had done +wonders with it.</p> +<p>He had bought a bright, clean, good scarlet coat, and a pair of breeches +of the same. - They were not a crown worse, he said, for the wearing. +- I wish’d him hang’d for telling me. - They look’d +so fresh, that though I knew the thing could not be done, yet I would +rather have imposed upon my fancy with thinking I had bought them new +for the fellow, than that they had come out of the Rue de Friperie.</p> +<p>This is a nicety which makes not the heart sore at Paris.</p> +<p>He had purchased, moreover, a handsome blue satin waistcoat, fancifully +enough embroidered: - this was indeed something the worse for the service +it had done, but ’twas clean scour’d; - the gold had been +touch’d up, and upon the whole was rather showy than otherwise; +- and as the blue was not violent, it suited with the coat and breeches +very well: he had squeez’d out of the money, moreover, a new bag +and a solitaire; and had insisted with the <i>fripier</i> upon a gold +pair of garters to his breeches knees. - He had purchased muslin ruffles, +<i>bien brodées</i>, with four livres of his own money; - and +a pair of white silk stockings for five more; - and to top all, nature +had given him a handsome figure, without costing him a sous.</p> +<p>He entered the room thus set off, with his hair dressed in the first +style, and with a handsome bouquet in his breast. - In a word, there +was that look of festivity in everything about him, which at once put +me in mind it was Sunday; - and, by combining both together, it instantly +struck me, that the favour he wish’d to ask of me the night before, +was to spend the day as every body in Paris spent it besides. +I had scarce made the conjecture, when La Fleur, with infinite humility, +but with a look of trust, as if I should not refuse him, begg’d +I would grant him the day, <i>pour faire le galant vis-à-vis +de sa maîtresse</i>.</p> +<p>Now it was the very thing I intended to do myself vis-à-vis +Madame de R-. - I had retained the remise on purpose for it, and it +would not have mortified my vanity to have had a servant so well dress’d +as La Fleur was, to have got up behind it: I never could have worse +spared him.</p> +<p>But we must <i>feel</i>, not argue in these embarrassments. - The +sons and daughters of Service part with liberty, but not with nature, +in their contracts; they are flesh and blood, and have their little +vanities and wishes in the midst of the house of bondage, as well as +their task-masters; - no doubt, they have set their self-denials at +a price, - and their expectations are so unreasonable, that I would +often disappoint them, but that their condition puts it so much in my +power to do it.</p> +<p><i>Behold</i>, - <i>Behold</i>, <i>I am thy servant</i> - disarms +me at once of the powers of a master. -</p> +<p>Thou shalt go, La Fleur! said I.</p> +<p>- And what mistress, La Fleur, said I, canst thou have picked up +in so little a time at Paris? La Fleur laid his hand upon his +breast, and said ’twas a <i>petite demoiselle</i>, at Monsieur +le Count de B-’s. - La Fleur had a heart made for society; and, +to speak the truth of him, let as few occasions slip him as his master; +- so that somehow or other, - but how, - heaven knows, - he had connected +himself with the demoiselle upon the landing of the staircase, during +the time I was taken up with my passport; and as there was time enough +for me to win the Count to my interest, La Fleur had contrived to make +it do to win the maid to his. The family, it seems, was to be +at Paris that day, and he had made a party with her, and two or three +more of the Count’s household, upon the boulevards.</p> +<p>Happy people! that once a week at least are sure to lay down all +your cares together, and dance and sing and sport away the weights of +grievance, which bow down the spirit of other nations to the earth.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE FRAGMENT. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>La Fleur had left me something to amuse myself with for the day more +than I had bargain’d for, or could have enter’d either into +his head or mine.</p> +<p>He had brought the little print of butter upon a currant leaf: and +as the morning was warm, and he had a good step to bring it, he had +begg’d a sheet of waste paper to put betwixt the currant leaf +and his hand. - As that was plate sufficient, I bade him lay it upon +the table as it was; and as I resolved to stay within all day, I ordered +him to call upon the <i>traîteur</i>, to bespeak my dinner, and +leave me to breakfast by myself.</p> +<p>When I had finished the butter, I threw the currant-leaf out of the +window, and was going to do the same by the waste paper; - but stopping +to read a line first, and that drawing me on to a second and third, +- I thought it better worth; so I shut the window, and drawing a chair +up to it, I sat down to read it.</p> +<p>It was in the old French of Rabelais’s time, and for aught +I know might have been wrote by him: - it was moreover in a Gothic letter, +and that so faded and gone off by damps and length of time, it cost +me infinite trouble to make anything of it. - I threw it down; and then +wrote a letter to Eugenius; - then I took it up again, and embroiled +my patience with it afresh; - and then to cure that, I wrote a letter +to Eliza. - Still it kept hold of me; and the difficulty of understanding +it increased but the desire.</p> +<p>I got my dinner; and after I had enlightened my mind with a bottle +of Burgundy; I at it again, - and, after two or three hours poring upon +it, with almost as deep attention as ever Gruter or Jacob Spon did upon +a nonsensical inscription, I thought I made sense of it; but to make +sure of it, the best way, I imagined, was to turn it into English, and +see how it would look then; - so I went on leisurely, as a trifling +man does, sometimes writing a sentence, - then taking a turn or two, +- and then looking how the world went, out of the window; so that it +was nine o’clock at night before I had done it. - I then began +and read it as follows.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE FRAGMENT. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>- Now, as the notary’s wife disputed the point with the notary +with too much heat, - I wish, said the notary, (throwing down the parchment) +that there was another notary here only to set down and attest all this. +-</p> +<p>- And what would you do then, Monsieur? said she, rising hastily +up. - The notary’s wife was a little fume of a woman, and the +notary thought it well to avoid a hurricane by a mild reply. - I would +go, answered he, to bed. - You may go to the devil, answer’d the +notary’s wife.</p> +<p>Now there happening to be but one bed in the house, the other two +rooms being unfurnished, as is the custom at Paris, and the notary not +caring to lie in the same bed with a woman who had but that moment sent +him pell mell to the devil, went forth with his hat and cane and short +cloak, the night being very windy, and walk’d out, ill at ease, +towards the Pont Neuf.</p> +<p>Of all the bridges which ever were built, the whole world who have +pass’d over the Pont Neuf must own, that it is the noblest, - +the finest, - the grandest, - the lightest, - the longest, - the broadest, +that ever conjoin’d land and land together upon the face of the +terraqueous globe.</p> +<p>[<i>By this it seems as if the author of the fragment had not been +a Frenchman</i>.]</p> +<p>The worst fault which divines and the doctors of the Sorbonne can +allege against it is, that if there is but a capfull of wind in or about +Paris, ’tis more blasphemously <i>sacre Dieu’d</i> there +than in any other aperture of the whole city, - and with reason good +and cogent, Messieurs; for it comes against you without crying <i>garde +d’eau</i>, and with such unpremeditable puffs, that of the few +who cross it with their hats on, not one in fifty but hazards two livres +and a half, which is its full worth.</p> +<p>The poor notary, just as he was passing by the sentry, instinctively +clapp’d his cane to the side of it, but in raising it up, the +point of his cane catching hold of the loop of the sentinel’s +hat, hoisted it over the spikes of the ballustrade clear into the Seine. +-</p> +<p>- ’<i>Tis an ill wind</i>, said a boatman, who catched it, +<i>which blows nobody any good</i>.</p> +<p>The sentry, being a Gascon, incontinently twirled up his whiskers, +and levell’d his arquebuss.</p> +<p>Arquebusses in those days went off with matches; and an old woman’s +paper lantern at the end of the bridge happening to be blown out, she +had borrow’d the sentry’s match to light it: - it gave a +moment’s time for the Gascon’s blood to run cool, and turn +the accident better to his advantage. - ’<i>Tis an ill wind</i>, +said he, catching off the notary’s castor, and legitimating the +capture with the boatman’s adage.</p> +<p>The poor notary crossed the bridge, and passing along the Rue de +Dauphine into the fauxbourgs of St. Germain, lamented himself as he +walked along in this manner: -</p> +<p>Luckless man that I am! said the notary, to be the sport of hurricanes +all my days: - to be born to have the storm of ill language levell’d +against me and my profession wherever I go; to be forced into marriage +by the thunder of the church to a tempest of a woman; - to be driven +forth out of my house by domestic winds, and despoil’d of my castor +by pontific ones! - to be here, bareheaded, in a windy night, at the +mercy of the ebbs and flows of accidents! - Where am I to lay my head? +- Miserable man! what wind in the two-and-thirty points of the whole +compass can blow unto thee, as it does to the rest of thy fellow-creatures, +good?</p> +<p>As the notary was passing on by a dark passage, complaining in this +sort, a voice call’d out to a girl, to bid her run for the next +notary. - Now the notary being the next, and availing himself of his +situation, walk’d up the passage to the door, and passing through +an old sort of a saloon, was usher’d into a large chamber, dismantled +of everything but a long military pike, - a breastplate, - a rusty old +sword, and bandoleer, hung up, equidistant, in four different places +against the wall.</p> +<p>An old personage who had heretofore been a gentleman, and unless +decay of fortune taints the blood along with it, was a gentleman at +that time, lay supporting his head upon his hand in his bed; a little +table with a taper burning was set close beside it, and close by the +table was placed a chair: - the notary sat him down in it; and pulling +out his inkhorn and a sheet or two of paper which he had in his pocket, +he placed them before him; and dipping his pen in his ink, and leaning +his breast over the table, he disposed everything to make the gentleman’s +last will and testament</p> +<p>Alas! <i>Monsieur le Notaire</i>, said the gentleman, raising +himself up a little, I have nothing to bequeath, which will pay the +expense of bequeathing, except the history of myself, which I could +not die in peace, unless I left it as a legacy to the world: the profits +arising out of it I bequeath to you for the pains of taking it from +me. - It is a story so uncommon, it must be read by all mankind; - it +will make the fortunes of your house. - The notary dipp’d his +pen into his inkhorn. - Almighty Director of every event in my life! +said the old gentleman, looking up earnestly, and raising his hands +towards heaven, - Thou, whose hand has led me on through such a labyrinth +of strange passages down into this scene of desolation, assist the decaying +memory of an old, infirm, and broken-hearted man; - direct my tongue +by the spirit of thy eternal truth, that this stranger may set down +nought but what is written in that BOOK, from whose records, said he, +clasping his hands together, I am to be condemn’d or acquitted! +- the notary held up the point of his pen betwixt the taper and his +eye. -</p> +<p>It is a story, <i>Monsieur le Notaire</i>, said the gentleman, which +will rouse up every affection in nature; - it will kill the humane, +and touch the heart of Cruelty herself with pity. -</p> +<p>- The notary was inflamed with a desire to begin, and put his pen +a third time into his ink-horn - and the old gentleman, turning a little +more towards the notary, began to dictate his story in these words: +-</p> +<p>- And where is the rest of it, La Fleur? said I, as he just then +enter’d the room.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE FRAGMENT, AND THE BOUQUET. <a name="citation1"></a><a href="#footnote1">{1}</a> +PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When La Fleur came up close to the table, and was made to comprehend +what I wanted, he told me there were only two other sheets of it, which +he had wrapped round the stalks of a bouquet to keep it together, which +he had presented to the demoiselle upon the boulevards. - Then prithee, +La Fleur, said I, step back to her to the Count de B-’s hotel, +and see if thou canst get it. - There is no doubt of it, said La Fleur; +- and away he flew.</p> +<p>In a very little time the poor fellow came back quite out of breath, +with deeper marks of disappointment in his looks than could arise from +the simple irreparability of the fragment. <i>Juste Ciel</i>! +in less than two minutes that the poor fellow had taken his last tender +farewell of her - his faithless mistress had given his <i>gage d’amour</i> +to one of the Count’s footmen, - the footman to a young sempstress, +- and the sempstress to a fiddler, with my fragment at the end of it. +- Our misfortunes were involved together: - I gave a sigh, - and La +Fleur echoed it back again to my ear.</p> +<p>- How perfidious! cried La Fleur. - How unlucky! said I.</p> +<p>- I should not have been mortified, Monsieur, quoth La Fleur, if +she had lost it. - Nor I, La Fleur, said I, had I found it.</p> +<p>Whether I did or no will be seen hereafter.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE ACT OF CHARITY. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The man who either disdains or fears to walk up a dark entry may +be an excellent good man, and fit for a hundred things, but he will +not do to make a good Sentimental Traveller. - I count little of the +many things I see pass at broad noonday, in large and open streets. +- Nature is shy, and hates to act before spectators; but in such an +unobserved corner you sometimes see a single short scene of hers worth +all the sentiments of a dozen French plays compounded together, - and +yet they are absolutely fine; - and whenever I have a more brilliant +affair upon my hands than common, as they suit a preacher just as well +as a hero, I generally make my sermon out of ’em; - and for the +text, - “Cappadocia, Pontus and Asia, Phrygia and Pamphylia,” +- is as good as any one in the Bible.</p> +<p>There is a long dark passage issuing out from the Opera Comique into +a narrow street; ’tis trod by a few who humbly wait for a <i>fiacre</i>, +<a name="citation2"></a><a href="#footnote2">{2}</a> or wish to get +off quietly o’foot when the opera is done. At the end of +it, towards the theatre, ’tis lighted by a small candle, the light +of which is almost lost before you get half-way down, but near the door +- ’tis more for ornament than use: you see it as a fixed star +of the least magnitude; it burns, - but does little good to the world, +that we know of.</p> +<p>In returning along this passage, I discerned, as I approached within +five or six paces of the door, two ladies standing arm-in-arm with their +backs against the wall, waiting, as I imagined, for a <i>fiacre</i>; +- as they were next the door, I thought they had a prior right; so edged +myself up within a yard or little more of them, and quietly took my +stand. - I was in black, and scarce seen.</p> +<p>The lady next me was a tall lean figure of a woman, of about thirty-six; +the other of the same size and make, of about forty: there was no mark +of wife or widow in any one part of either of them; - they seem’d +to be two upright vestal sisters, unsapped by caresses, unbroke in upon +by tender salutations. - I could have wish’d to have made them +happy: - their happiness was destin’d that night, to come from +another quarter.</p> +<p>A low voice, with a good turn of expression, and sweet cadence at +the end of it, begg’d for a twelve-sous piece betwixt them, for +the love of heaven. I thought it singular that a beggar should +fix the quota of an alms - and that the sum should be twelve times as +much as what is usually given in the dark. - They both seemed astonished +at it as much as myself. - Twelve sous! said one. - A twelve-sous piece! +said the other, - and made no reply.</p> +<p>The poor man said, he knew not how to ask less of ladies of their +rank; and bow’d down his head to the ground.</p> +<p>Poo! said they, - we have no money.</p> +<p>The beggar remained silent for a moment or two, and renew’d +his supplication.</p> +<p>- Do not, my fair young ladies, said he, stop your good ears against +me. - Upon my word, honest man! said the younger, we have no change. +- Then God bless you, said the poor man, and multiply those joys which +you can give to others without change! - I observed the elder sister +put her hand into her pocket. - I’ll see, said she, if I have +a sous. A sous! give twelve, said the supplicant; Nature has been +bountiful to you, be bountiful to a poor man.</p> +<p>- I would friend, with all my heart, said the younger, if I had it.</p> +<p>My fair charitable! said he, addressing himself to the elder, - what +is it but your goodness and humanity which makes your bright eyes so +sweet, that they outshine the morning even in this dark passage? and +what was it which made the Marquis de Santerre and his brother say so +much of you both as they just passed by?</p> +<p>The two ladies seemed much affected; and impulsively, at the same +time they both put their hands into their pocket, and each took out +a twelve-sous piece.</p> +<p>The contest betwixt them and the poor supplicant was no more; - it +was continued betwixt themselves, which of the two should give the twelve-sous +piece in charity; - and, to end the dispute, they both gave it together, +and the man went away.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE RIDDLE EXPLAINED. PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I stepped hastily after him: it was the very man whose success in +asking charity of the women before the door of the hotel had so puzzled +me; - and I found at once his secret, or at least the basis of it: - +’twas flattery.</p> +<p>Delicious essence! how refreshing art thou to Nature! how strongly +are all its powers and all its weaknesses on thy side! how sweetly dost +thou mix with the blood, and help it through the most difficult and +tortuous passages to the heart!</p> +<p>The poor man, as he was not straiten’d for time, had given +it here in a larger dose: ’tis certain he had a way of bringing +it into a less form, for the many sudden cases he had to do with in +the streets: but how he contrived to correct, sweeten, concentre, and +qualify it, - I vex not my spirit with the enquiry; - it is enough the +beggar gained two twelve-sous pieces - and they can best tell the rest, +who have gained much greater matters by it.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>PARIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>We get forwards in the world, not so much by doing services, as receiving +them; you take a withering twig, and put it in the ground; and then +you water it, because you have planted it.</p> +<p>Monsieur le Count de B-, merely because he had done me one kindness +in the affair of my passport, would go on and do me another, the few +days he was at Paris, in making me known to a few people of rank; and +they were to present me to others, and so on.</p> +<p>I had got master of my <i>secret</i> just in time to turn these honours +to some little account; otherwise, as is commonly the case, I should +have dined or supp’d a single time or two round, and then, by +<i>translating</i> French looks and attitudes into plain English, I +should presently have seen, that I had hold of the <i>couvert</i> <a name="citation3"></a><a href="#footnote3">{3}</a> +of some more entertaining guest; and in course should have resigned +all my places one after another, merely upon the principle that I could +not keep them. - As it was, things did not go much amiss.</p> +<p>I had the honour of being introduced to the old Marquis de B-: in +days of yore he had signalized himself by some small feats of chivalry +in the <i>Cour d’Amour</i>, and had dress’d himself out +to the idea of tilts and tournaments ever since. - The Marquis de B- +wish’d to have it thought the affair was somewhere else than in +his brain. “He could like to take a trip to England,” +and asked much of the English ladies. - Stay where you are, I beseech +you, Monsieur le Marquis, said I. - <i>Les Messieurs</i> <i>Anglois</i> +can scarce get a kind look from them as it is. - The Marquis invited +me to supper.</p> +<p>Monsieur P-, the farmer-general, was just as inquisitive about our +taxes. They were very considerable, he heard. - If we knew but +how to collect them, said I, making him a low bow.</p> +<p>I could never have been invited to Mons. P-’s concerts upon +any other terms.</p> +<p>I had been misrepresented to Madame de Q- as an <i>esprit</i>. - +Madame de Q- was an <i>esprit</i> herself: she burnt with impatience +to see me, and hear me talk. I had not taken my seat, before I +saw she did not care a sous whether I had any wit or no; - I was let +in, to be convinced she had. I call heaven to witness I never +once opened the door of my lips.</p> +<p>Madame de V- vow’d to every creature she met - “She had +never had a more improving conversation with a man in her life.”</p> +<p>There are three epochas in the empire of a French woman. - She is +coquette, - then deist, - then <i>dévote</i>: the empire during +these is never lost, - she only changes her subjects when thirty-five +years and more have unpeopled her dominion of the slaves of love, she +re-peoples it with slaves of infidelity, - and then with the slaves +of the church.</p> +<p>Madame de V- was vibrating betwixt the first of those epochas: the +colour of the rose was fading fast away; - she ought to have been a +deist five years before the time I had the honour to pay my first visit.</p> +<p>She placed me upon the same sofa with her, for the sake of disputing +the point of religion more closely. - In short Madame de V- told me +she believed nothing. - I told Madame de V- it might be her principle, +but I was sure it could not be her interest to level the outworks, without +which I could not conceive how such a citadel as hers could be defended; +- that there was not a more dangerous thing in the world than for a +beauty to be a deist; - that it was a debt I owed my creed not to conceal +it from her; - that I had not been five minutes sat upon the sofa beside +her, but I had begun to form designs; - and what is it, but the sentiments +of religion, and the persuasion they had excited in her breast, which +could have check’d them as they rose up?</p> +<p>We are not adamant, said I, taking hold of her hand; - and there +is need of all restraints, till age in her own time steals in and lays +them on us. - But my dear lady, said I, kissing her hand, - ’tis +too - too soon.</p> +<p>I declare I had the credit all over Paris of unperverting Madame +de V-. - She affirmed to Monsieur D- and the Abbé M-, that in +one half hour I had said more for revealed religion, than all their +Encyclopaedia had said against it. - I was listed directly into Madame +de V-’s <i>coterie</i>; - and she put off the epocha of deism +for two years.</p> +<p>I remember it was in this <i>coterie</i>, in the middle of a discourse, +in which I was showing the necessity of a <i>first</i> cause, when the +young Count de Faineant took me by the hand to the farthest corner of +the room, to tell me my <i>solitaire</i> was pinn’d too straight +about my neck. - It should be <i>plus badinant</i>, said the Count, +looking down upon his own; - but a word, Monsieur Yorick, <i>to the +wise</i> -</p> +<p>And <i>from the wise</i>, Monsieur le Count, replied I, making him +a bow, - <i>is enough</i>.</p> +<p>The Count de Faineant embraced me with more ardour than ever I was +embraced by mortal man.</p> +<p>For three weeks together I was of every man’s opinion I met. +- <i>Pardi</i>! <i>ce Monsieur Yorick a autant d’esprit que nous +autres. - Il raisonne bien</i>, said another. - <i>C’est un bon +enfant</i>, said a third. - And at this price I could have eaten and +drank and been merry all the days of my life at Paris; but ’twas +a dishonest <i>reckoning</i>; - I grew ashamed of it. - It was the gain +of a slave; - every sentiment of honour revolted against it; - the higher +I got, the more was I forced upon my <i>beggarly system</i>; - the better +the <i>coterie</i>, - the more children of Art; - I languish’d +for those of Nature: and one night, after a most vile prostitution of +myself to half a dozen different people, I grew sick, - went to bed; +- order’d La Fleur to get me horses in the morning to set out +for Italy.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MARIA. MOULINES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I never felt what the distress of plenty was in any one shape till +now, - to travel it through the Bourbonnois, the sweetest part of France, +- in the heyday of the vintage, when Nature is pouring her abundance +into every one’s lap, and every eye is lifted up, - a journey, +through each step of which Music beats time to <i>Labour</i>, and all +her children are rejoicing as they carry in their clusters: to pass +through this with my affections flying out, and kindling at every group +before me, - and every one of them was pregnant with adventures. -</p> +<p>Just heaven! - it would fill up twenty volumes; - and alas! I have +but a few small pages left of this to crowd it into, - and half of these +must be taken up with the poor Maria my friend, Mr. Shandy, met with +near Moulines.</p> +<p>The story he had told of that disordered maid affected me not a little +in the reading; but when I got within the neighbourhood where she lived, +it returned so strong into the mind, that I could not resist an impulse +which prompted me to go half a league out of the road, to the village +where her parents dwelt, to enquire after her.</p> +<p>’Tis going, I own, like the Knight of the Woeful Countenance +in quest of melancholy adventures. But I know not how it is, but +I am never so perfectly conscious of the existence of a soul within +me, as when I am entangled in them.</p> +<p>The old mother came to the door; her looks told me the story before +she open’d her mouth. - She had lost her husband; he had died, +she said, of anguish, for the loss of Maria’s senses, about a +month before. - She had feared at first, she added, that it would have +plunder’d her poor girl of what little understanding was left; +- but, on the contrary, it had brought her more to herself: - still, +she could not rest. - Her poor daughter, she said, crying, was wandering +somewhere about the road.</p> +<p>Why does my pulse beat languid as I write this? and what made La +Fleur, whose heart seem’d only to be tuned to joy, to pass the +back of his hand twice across his eyes, as the woman stood and told +it? I beckoned to the postilion to turn back into the road.</p> +<p>When we had got within half a league of Moulines, at a little opening +in the road leading to a thicket, I discovered poor Maria sitting under +a poplar. She was sitting with her elbow in her lap, and her head +leaning on one side within her hand: - a small brook ran at the foot +of the tree.</p> +<p>I bid the postilion go on with the chaise to Moulines - and La Fleur +to bespeak my supper; - and that I would walk after him.</p> +<p>She was dress’d in white, and much as my friend described her, +except that her hair hung loose, which before was twisted within a silk +net. - She had superadded likewise to her jacket, a pale green riband, +which fell across her shoulder to the waist; at the end of which hung +her pipe. - Her goat had been as faithless as her lover; and she had +got a little dog in lieu of him, which she had kept tied by a string +to her girdle: as I looked at her dog, she drew him towards her with +the string. - “Thou shalt not leave me, Sylvio,” said she. +I look’d in Maria’s eyes and saw she was thinking more of +her father than of her lover, or her little goat; for, as she utter’d +them, the tears trickled down her cheeks.</p> +<p>I sat down close by her; and Maria let me wipe them away as they +fell, with my handkerchief. - I then steep’d it in my own, - and +then in hers, - and then in mine, - and then I wip’d hers again; +- and as I did it, I felt such undescribable emotions within me, as +I am sure could not be accounted for from any combinations of matter +and motion.</p> +<p>I am positive I have a soul; nor can all the books with which materialists +have pester’d the world ever convince me to the contrary.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MARIA.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When Maria had come a little to herself, I ask’d her if she +remembered a pale thin person of a man, who had sat down betwixt her +and her goat about two years before? She said she was unsettled +much at that time, but remembered it upon two accounts: - that ill as +she was, she saw the person pitied her; and next, that her goat had +stolen his handkerchief, and she had beat him for the theft; - she had +wash’d it, she said, in the brook, and kept it ever since in her +pocket to restore it to him in case she should ever see him again, which, +she added, he had half promised her. As she told me this, she +took the handkerchief out of her pocket to let me see it; she had folded +it up neatly in a couple of vine leaves, tied round with a tendril; +- on opening it, I saw an S. marked in one of the corners.</p> +<p>She had since that, she told me, stray’d as far as Rome, and +walk’d round St. Peter’s once, - and return’d back; +- that she found her way alone across the Apennines; - had travell’d +over all Lombardy, without money, - and through the flinty roads of +Savoy without shoes: - how she had borne it, and how she had got supported, +she could not tell; - but <i>God tempers the wind</i>, said Maria, <i>to +the shorn lamb</i>.</p> +<p>Shorn indeed! and to the quick, said I: and wast thou in my own land, +where I have a cottage, I would take thee to it, and shelter thee: thou +shouldst eat of my own bread and drink of my own cup; - I would be kind +to thy Sylvio; - in all thy weaknesses and wanderings I would seek after +thee and bring thee back; - when the sun went down I would say my prayers: +and when I had done thou shouldst play thy evening song upon thy pipe, +nor would the incense of my sacrifice be worse accepted for entering +heaven along with that of a broken heart!</p> +<p>Nature melted within me, as I utter’d this; and Maria observing, +as I took out my handkerchief, that it was steep’d too much already +to be of use, would needs go wash it in the stream. - And where will +you dry it, Maria? said I. - I’ll dry it in my bosom, said she: +- ’twill do me good.</p> +<p>And is your heart still so warm, Maria? said I.</p> +<p>I touch’d upon the string on which hung all her sorrows: - +she look’d with wistful disorder for some time in my face; and +then, without saying any thing, took her pipe and play’d her service +to the Virgin. - The string I had touched ceased to vibrate; - in a +moment or two Maria returned to herself, - let her pipe fall, - and +rose up.</p> +<p>And where are you going, Maria? said I. - She said, to Moulines. +- Let us go, said I, together. - Maria put her arm within mine, and +lengthening the string, to let the dog follow, - in that order we enter’d +Moulines.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>MARIA. MOULINES.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Though I hate salutations and greetings in the market-place, yet, +when we got into the middle of this, I stopp’d to take my last +look and last farewell of Maria.</p> +<p>Maria, though not tall, was nevertheless of the first order of fine +forms: - affliction had touched her looks with something that was scarce +earthly; - still she was feminine; - and so much was there about her +of all that the heart wishes, or the eye looks for in woman, that could +the traces be ever worn out of her brain, and those of Eliza out of +mine, she should <i>not only eat of my bread and drink of my own cup</i>, +but Maria should lie in my bosom, and be unto me as a daughter.</p> +<p>Adieu, poor luckless maiden! - Imbibe the oil and wine which the +compassion of a stranger, as he journeyeth on his way, now pours into +thy wounds; - the Being, who has twice bruised thee, can only bind them +up for ever.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE BOURBONNNOIS.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>There was nothing from which I had painted out for my self so joyous +a riot of the affections, as in this journey in the vintage, through +this part of France; but pressing through this gate, of sorrow to it, +my sufferings have totally unfitted me. In every scene of festivity, +I saw Maria in the background of the piece, sitting pensive under her +poplar; and I had got almost to Lyons before I was able to cast a shade +across her.</p> +<p>- Dear Sensibility! source inexhausted of all that’s precious +in our joys, or costly in our sorrows! thou chainest thy martyr down +upon his bed of straw - and ’tis thou who lift’st him up +to Heaven! - Eternal Fountain of our feelings! - ’tis here I trace +thee - and this is thy “<i>divinity which stirs within me</i>;” +- not that, in some sad and sickening moments, “<i>my soul shrinks +back upon herself, and startles at destruction</i>;” - mere pomp +of words! - but that I feel some generous joys and generous cares beyond +myself; - all comes from thee, great - great SENSORIUM of the world! +which vibrates, if a hair of our heads but falls upon the ground, in +the remotest desert of thy creation. - Touch’d with thee, Eugenius +draws my curtain when I languish - hears my tale of symptoms, and blames +the weather for the disorder of his nerves. Thou giv’st +a portion of it sometimes to the roughest peasant who traverses the +bleakest mountains; - he finds the lacerated lamb of another’s +flock. - This moment I behold him leaning with his head against his +crook, with piteous inclination looking down upon it! - Oh! had I come +one moment sooner! it bleeds to death! - his gentle heart bleeds with +it. -</p> +<p>Peace to thee, generous swain! - I see thou walkest off with anguish, +- but thy joys shall balance it; - for, happy is thy cottage, - and +happy is the sharer of it, - and happy are the lambs which sport about +you!</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE SUPPER.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>A shoe coming loose from the fore foot of the thill-horse, at the +beginning of the ascent of mount Taurira, the postilion dismounted, +twisted the shoe off, and put it in his pocket; as the ascent was of +five or six miles, and that horse our main dependence, I made a point +of having the shoe fastened on again, as well as we could; but the postilion +had thrown away the nails, and the hammer in the chaise box being of +no great use without them, I submitted to go on.</p> +<p>He had not mounted half a mile higher, when, coming to a flinty piece +of road, the poor devil lost a second shoe, and from off his other fore +foot. I then got out of the chaise in good earnest; and seeing +a house about a quarter of a mile to the left hand, with a great deal +to do I prevailed upon the postilion to turn up to it. The look +of the house, and of every thing about it, as we drew nearer, soon reconciled +me to the disaster. - It was a little farm-house, surrounded with about +twenty acres of vineyard, about as much corn; - and close to the house, +on one side, was a <i>potagerie</i> of an acre and a half, full of everything +which could make plenty in a French peasant’s house; - and, on +the other side, was a little wood, which furnished wherewithal to dress +it. It was about eight in the evening when I got to the house +- so I left the postilion to manage his point as he could; - and, for +mine, I walked directly into the house.</p> +<p>The family consisted of an old grey-headed man and his wife, with +five or six sons and sons-in-law, and their several wives, and a joyous +genealogy out of them.</p> +<p>They were all sitting down together to their lentil-soup; a large +wheaten loaf was in the middle of the table; and a flagon of wine at +each end of it promised joy through the stages of the repast: - ’twas +a feast of love.</p> +<p>The old man rose up to meet me, and with a respectful cordiality +would have me sit down at the table; my heart was set down the moment +I enter’d the room; so I sat down at once like a son of the family; +and to invest myself in the character as speedily as I could, I instantly +borrowed the old man’s knife, and taking up the loaf, cut myself +a hearty luncheon; and, as I did it, I saw a testimony in every eye, +not only of an honest welcome, but of a welcome mix’d with thanks +that I had not seem’d to doubt it.</p> +<p>Was it this? or tell me, Nature, what else it was that made this +morsel so sweet, - and to what magic I owe it, that the draught I took +of their flagon was so delicious with it, that they remain upon my palate +to this hour?</p> +<p>If the supper was to my taste, - the grace which followed it was +much more so.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE GRACE.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When supper was over, the old man gave a knock upon the table with +the haft of his knife, to bid them prepare for the dance: the moment +the signal was given, the women and girls ran altogether into a back +apartment to tie up their hair, - and the young men to the door to wash +their faces, and change their sabots; and in three minutes every soul +was ready upon a little esplanade before the house to begin. - The old +man and his wife came out last, and placing me betwixt them, sat down +upon a sofa of turf by the door.</p> +<p>The old man had some fifty years ago been no mean performer upon +the vielle, - and at the age he was then of, touch’d it well enough +for the purpose. His wife sung now and then a little to the tune, +- then intermitted, - and join’d her old man again, as their children +and grand-children danced before them.</p> +<p>It was not till the middle of the second dance, when, from some pauses +in the movements, wherein they all seemed to look up, I fancied I could +distinguish an elevation of spirit different from that which is the +cause or the effect of simple jollity. In a word, I thought I +beheld <i>Religion</i> mixing in the dance: - but, as I had never seen +her so engaged, I should have look’d upon it now as one of the +illusions of an imagination which is eternally misleading me, had not +the old man, as soon as the dance ended, said, that this was their constant +way; and that all his life long he had made it a rule, after supper +was over, to call out his family to dance and rejoice; believing, he +said, that a cheerful and contented mind was the best sort of thanks +to heaven that an illiterate peasant could pay, -</p> +<p>Or a learned prelate either, said I.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<h2>THE CASE OF DELICACY.</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>When you have gained the top of Mount Taurira, you run presently +down to Lyons: - adieu, then, to all rapid movements! ’Tis +a journey of caution; and it fares better with sentiments, not to be +in a hurry with them; so I contracted with a voiturin to take his time +with a couple of mules, and convoy me in my own chaise safe to Turin, +through Savoy.</p> +<p>Poor, patient, quiet, honest people! fear not: your poverty, the +treasury of your simple virtues, will not be envied you by the world, +nor will your valleys be invaded by it. - Nature! in the midst of thy +disorders, thou art still friendly to the scantiness thou hast created: +with all thy great works about thee, little hast thou left to give, +either to the scythe or to the sickle; - but to that little thou grantest +safety and protection; and sweet are the dwellings which stand so shelter’d.</p> +<p>Let the way-worn traveller vent his complaints upon the sudden turns +and dangers of your roads, - your rocks, - your precipices; - the difficulties +of getting up, - the horrors of getting down, - mountains impracticable, +- and cataracts, which roll down great stones from their summits, and +block his road up. - The peasants had been all day at work in removing +a fragment of this kind between St. Michael and Madane; and, by the +time my voiturin got to the place, it wanted full two hours of completing +before a passage could any how be gain’d: there was nothing but +to wait with patience; - ’twas a wet and tempestuous night; so +that by the delay, and that together, the voiturin found himself obliged +to put up five miles short of his stage at a little decent kind of an +inn by the roadside.</p> +<p>I forthwith took possession of my bedchamber - got a good fire - +order’d supper; and was thanking heaven it was no worse, when +a voiture arrived with a lady in it and her servant maid.</p> +<p>As there was no other bed-chamber in the house, the hostess, - without +much nicety, led them into mine, telling them, as she usher’d +them in, that there was nobody in it but an English gentleman; - that +there were two good beds in it, and a closet within the room which held +another. The accent in which she spoke of this third bed, did +not say much for it; - however, she said there were three beds and but +three people, and she durst say, the gentleman would do anything to +accommodate matters. - I left not the lady a moment to make a conjecture +about it - so instantly made a declaration that I would do anything +in my power.</p> +<p>As this did not amount to an absolute surrender of my bed-chamber, +I still felt myself so much the proprietor, as to have a right to do +the honours of it; - so I desired the lady to sit down, - pressed her +into the warmest seat, - called for more wood, - desired the hostess +to enlarge the plan of the supper, and to favour us with the very best +wine.</p> +<p>The lady had scarce warm’d herself five minutes at the fire, +before she began to turn her head back, and give a look at the beds; +and the oftener she cast her eyes that way, the more they return’d +perplexd; - I felt for her - and for myself: for in a few minutes, what +by her looks, and the case itself, I found myself as much embarrassed +as it was possible the lady could be herself.</p> +<p>That the beds we were to lie in were in one and the same room, was +enough simply by itself to have excited all this; - but the position +of them, for they stood parallel, and so very close to each other as +only to allow space for a small wicker chair betwixt them, rendered +the affair still more oppressive to us; - they were fixed up moreover +near the fire; and the projection of the chimney on one side, and a +large beam which cross’d the room on the other, formed a kind +of recess for them that was no way favourable to the nicety of our sensations: +- if anything could have added to it, it was that the two beds were +both of them so very small, as to cut us off from every idea of the +lady and the maid lying together; which in either of them, could it +have been feasible, my lying beside them, though a thing not to be wish’d, +yet there was nothing in it so terrible which the imagination might +not have pass’d over without torment.</p> +<p>As for the little room within, it offer’d little or no consolation +to us: ’twas a damp, cold closet, with a half dismantled window-shutter, +and with a window which had neither glass nor oil paper in it to keep +out the tempest of the night. I did not endeavour to stifle my +cough when the lady gave a peep into it; so it reduced the case in course +to this alternative - That the lady should sacrifice her health to her +feelings, and take up with the closet herself, and abandon the bed next +mine to her maid, - or that the girl should take the closet, &c., +&c.</p> +<p>The lady was a Piedmontese of about thirty, with a glow of health +in her cheeks. The maid was a Lyonoise of twenty, and as brisk +and lively a French girl as ever moved. - There were difficulties every +way, - and the obstacle of the stone in the road, which brought us into +the distress, great as it appeared whilst the peasants were removing +it, was but a pebble to what lay in our ways now. - I have only to add, +that it did not lessen the weight which hung upon our spirits, that +we were both too delicate to communicate what we felt to each other +upon the occasion.</p> +<p>We sat down to supper; and had we not had more generous wine to it +than a little inn in Savoy could have furnish’d, our tongues had +been tied up, till necessity herself had set them at liberty; - but +the lady having a few bottles of Burgundy in her voiture, sent down +her <i>fille de chambre</i> for a couple of them; so that by the time +supper was over, and we were left alone, we felt ourselves inspired +with a strength of mind sufficient to talk, at least, without reserve +upon our situation. We turn’d it every way, and debated +and considered it in all kinds of lights in the course of a two hours’ +negotiation; at the end of which the articles were settled finally betwixt +us, and stipulated for in form and manner of a treaty of peace, - and +I believe with as much religion and good faith on both sides as in any +treaty which has yet had the honour of being handed down to posterity.</p> +<p>They were as follow: -</p> +<p>First, as the right of the bed-chamber is in Monsieur, - and he thinking +the bed next to the fire to be the warmest, he insists upon the concession +on the lady’s side of taking up with it.</p> +<p>Granted, on the part of Madame; with a proviso, That as the curtains +of that bed are of a flimsy transparent cotton, and appear likewise +too scanty to draw close, that the <i>fille de chambre</i> shall fasten +up the opening, either by corking pins, or needle and thread, in such +manner as shall be deem’d a sufficient barrier on the side of +Monsieur.</p> +<p>2dly. It is required on the part of Madame, that Monsieur shall +lie the whole night through in his <i>robe de chambre</i>.</p> +<p>Rejected: inasmuch as Monsieur is not worth a <i>robe de chambre</i>; +he having nothing in his portmanteau but six shirts and a black silk +pair of breeches.</p> +<p>The mentioning the silk pair of breeches made an entire change of +the article, - for the breeches were accepted as an equivalent for the +<i>robe de chambre</i>; and so it was stipulated and agreed upon, that +I should lie in my black silk breeches all night.</p> +<p>3dly. It was insisted upon and stipulated for by the lady, +that after Monsieur was got to bed, and the candle and fire extinguished, +that Monsieur should not speak one single word the whole night.</p> +<p>Granted; provided Monsieur’s saying his prayers might not be +deemed an infraction of the treaty.</p> +<p>There was but one point forgot in this treaty, and that was the manner +in which the lady and myself should be obliged to undress and get to +bed; - there was but one way of doing it, and that I leave to the reader +to devise; protesting as I do it, that if it is not the most delicate +in nature, ’tis the fault of his own imagination, - against which +this is not my first complaint.</p> +<p>Now, when we were got to bed, whether it was the novelty of the situation, +or what it was, I know not; but so it was, I could not shut my eyes; +I tried this side, and that, and turn’d and turn’d again, +till a full hour after midnight; when Nature and patience both wearing +out, - O, my God! said I.</p> +<p>- You have broke the treaty, Monsieur, said the lady, who had no +more slept than myself. - I begg’d a thousand pardons - but insisted +it was no more than an ejaculation. She maintained ’twas +an entire infraction of the treaty - I maintained it was provided for +in the clause of the third article.</p> +<p>The lady would by no means give up her point, though she weaken’d +her barrier by it; for in the warmth of the dispute, I could hear two +or three corking pins fall out of the curtain to the ground.</p> +<p>Upon my word and honour, Madame, said I, - stretching my arm out +of bed by way of asseveration. -</p> +<p>(I was going to have added, that I would not have trespassed against +the remotest idea of decorum for the world); -</p> +<p>But the <i>fille de chambre</i> hearing there were words between +us, and fearing that hostilities would ensue in course, had crept silently +out of her closet, and it being totally dark, had stolen so close to +our beds, that she had got herself into the narrow passage which separated +them, and had advanced so far up as to be in a line betwixt her mistress +and me: -</p> +<p>So that when I stretch’d out my hand I caught hold of the <i>fille +de chambre’s</i> -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Footnotes:</p> +<p><a name="footnote1"></a><a href="#citation1">{1}</a> Nosegay.</p> +<p><a name="footnote2"></a><a href="#citation2">{2}</a> Hackney +coach.</p> +<p><a name="footnote3"></a><a href="#citation3">{3}</a> Plate, +napkin, knife, fork and spoon.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines3"><br /><br /><br /></div> +<p>End of the Project Gutenberg eBook A Sentimental Journey through +France and Italy</p> +<p>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, A SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY ***</p> +<pre> + +******This file should be named senjr10h.htm or senjr10h.zip****** +Corrected EDITIONS of our EBooks get a new NUMBER, senjr11h.htm +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, senjr10ah.htm + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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