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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f57f44 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,13 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text +*.htm text +*.html text +*.png binary +*.jpg binary +*.svg text +*.pdf binary +*.bmp binary +*.zip binary +*.midi binary +*.mp3 binary diff --git a/79273-0.txt b/79273-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f6a074 --- /dev/null +++ b/79273-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8400 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 *** + + + + + RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY. + + +[Illustration: Longfellow and Appleton] + + + + + RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY + AS SEEN IN 1866-’67 BY APPLETON AND LONGFELLOW, TWO YOUNG TRAVELLERS + FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, WHO HAD BEEN OFFICERS IN THE UNION + ARMY, AND A JOURNEY TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS IN 1869. + + +[Illustration: An ornamental monogram of the letters "NA" enclosed +within a decorative shield-shaped frame.] + + WITH SKETCHES OF ALEXANDER II. AND ABRAHAM LINCOLN, AND EMANCIPATION IN + THE EMPIRE OF RUSSIA AND THE REPUBLIC OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. + + + PREPARED BY + + BREVET CAPTAIN NATHAN APPLETON + + AUTHOR OF + + “HARVARD COLLEGE DURING THE WAR.” + + BOSTON, 1904. + + + Copyright, 1904 + BY NATHAN APPLETON. + (_All Rights Reserved._) + + + Press of Murray and Emery Company Boston, Massachusetts + + + TO + + PRINCESS J—— G—— + + IN PLEASANT RECOLLECTION OF SKATING AT MOSCOW. JANUARY, 1867, THIS BOOK + IS DEDICATED BY + + THE AUTHOR + + BOSTON, 1904. + + + + + CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER FIRST + PAGE + Arrival in Paris and Adieu. The Yacht Alice 9 + + CHAPTER SECOND + Lincoln and Emancipation 43 + + CHAPTER THIRD + Brussels, Berlin, Königsburg, Wilna 68 + + CHAPTER FOURTH + St. Petersburg. Tsar Alexander II., Gortschakoff, Cronstadt 81 + + CHAPTER FIFTH + Moscow. The City and Environs. Trotting in Russia 100 + + CHAPTER SIXTH + St. Petersburg. The Neva. Novgorod. Poland 133 + + CHAPTER SEVENTH + Charles Appleton Longfellow 156 + + CHAPTER EIGHTH + France. Last Days of the Empire. To Russia with Gen. Banks 160 + + CHAPTER NINTH + Alexander II. and Emancipation 184 + + CHAPTER TENTH + Europe and America in 1870. Demetrius Goubareff. Russia and the + United States 207 + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Longfellow and Appleton _Frontispiece._ + OP. PAGE + Yacht Alice, Cowes, I. W., 1866 18 + Captain, Passengers and Crew of the Alice 19 + Rue de la Paix, à Paris 24 + Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race 31 + Troika 38 + Abraham Lincoln 43 + Wilna 68 + Statue of Kant, Königsburg, 1866 73 + Single Sleigh 74 + Nevski Prospect, St. Petersburg 81 + Hon. Cassius M. Clay, Minister to Russia 82 + Bolshaja Morskaja (Great Sea Street) 86 + Christmas Shopping in St. Petersburg 87 + The Kremlin, Moscow 100 + Drinking Tea 105 + A Coursier 110 + The Staigg Portrait 117 + Rosalie 125 + The Blessing of the Neva 133 + The Midnight Drive 140 + Skating in the Yousoupoff Garden 141 + Circassian Uniform 142 + Sledge Drawn by Reindeer 151 + Drosky 153 + Charles Appleton Longfellow 156 + Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks, Representative from + Massachusetts 160 + Ferdinand de Lesseps 179 + Alexander II., 1866 184 + Odessa, 1899 207 + Port Said. Opening of the Suez Canal 225 + + + + + RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY + + + + + CHAPTER FIRST. + ARRIVAL IN PARIS AND ADIEU. THE YACHT ALICE. + + “Our trusty friend, our true ally + Through varied change and chance: + So fill your flashing goblets high, + I give you, vive la France.” + —_Oliver Wendell Holmes._ + + +I sailed from New York early in October, 1866, in the French line +steamer _Ville de Paris_, Captain Surmont. Time about eleven days to +Brest. Cloudy weather, and the last four or five days no observation, so +one morning we found ourselves near the Scilly Islands, and from there +steamed over to Brest, arriving in the afternoon. I had a room with +Frank Burgess of Boston, whom I then knew but slightly, and, as we found +that we liked each other and had the same objects in view at Paris, we +went there and took rooms together at the Hotel de la Paix, since torn +down for the Place du Nouvel Opera, corner Rue de la Paix and the +Boulevard. The month I passed there until going to Russia was one of my +liveliest and pleasantest in Paris. + +The voyage across the ocean was the same old story so often and often +described. There was the same queer medley of passengers as always, and +they told the same stories they always do, and passed their time in the +same old way. There was the knowing Yankee buyer, going on his hurried +autumn business tour through Europe, who gave every one to understand +that this was his forty-seventh voyage across the Atlantic, and that he +knew pretty well how to take care of himself. He had been in nearly +every steamship of every line between Europe and America, and gave +advice freely as to their relative merits. He always could tell the +exact position of the ship, in fog or shine, better than the Captain +himself, and was most active in getting up, every day after lunch, pools +on the ship’s run, after which he would rush about making his “book,” +buying and selling tickets to increase his chances of winning. + +Then there was the jolly _paterfamilias_, who had been passing the last +four months at the Fifth Avenue Hotel, looking after his investments, +and was now returning, to join his family who were living in Paris, and +who would gladly welcome him and his full purse. He was always around, +and very attentive to and a great favorite with the ladies, young and +old. + +There was the same group of Cubans smoking cigarettes and talking +Spanish together with wild gesticulations, but keeping aloof from the +other passengers. And, oh! the pretty French actress, returning for the +winter season in Paris at the Folies Dramatiques or the Palais Royal, +fresh from the applause and bouquets in New York, Chicago and San +Francisco. She was dark, she was petite, she had arched eyebrows and the +slightest touch of paint under her sparkling orbs. She never appeared on +deck until near dinner time and then in a lovely toilette, as if she +were just going to take a drive at the Bois. And how at the concert, +organized a few nights before sighting the coast of _la belle_ France, +she charmed all as she sang some of her opera bouffe songs. + +Of course the precocious youth was aboard, going out for the fourth time +to see the Coliseum, and what wonderful information he imparted to such +listeners as he could get. When the wind was aft he assured you that the +boat was making at least fifteen knots, and that we should arrive at +Brest in time to take the eight o’clock train for Paris; then, again, +when the wind was dead ahead he consoled you with the thought that it +made the fires draw well, which was a good thing; but if it struck the +boat on either beam he could conclusively prove that the sails being +well filled the steamer was steady in her movements, which, after all, +was better than rolling about too fast. If it chanced to rain he cheered +the disconsolate passengers by stating that it would help beat down the +waves and make the sea less rough! Every day, too, he seemed to +think,—nor did he keep this sagacious thought to himself,—lightened the +ship of so much coal, and then as for the advantages of fogs or +icebergs, no possible question on the subject could puzzle him. + +Pretty girls flitted here and there, or were spread out in their chairs +and looked uncomfortable. “Swells” gloomily lounged around: enthusiastic +young travellers were always on hand at everything which turned up in +the ship’s management, especially the throwing the log and taking the +observations, as if determined at the outset to lose none of their +money’s worth of sight-seeing. + +A clever lady from Washington was always posed in a corner of the +saloon, a half read novel in hand, her _flacon_ and fan on either side, +and she herself happy at any time, morning, afternoon or evening, to +enter with you into a long conversation on any subject. + +A French priest and a Western parson kept theology well argued as an +appetizer for your meals, while in the smoking room the poker party was +going on all through the voyage with scarcely an intermission. + +The bluff old Captain was ever about with a pleasant smile and word for +all, inspiring those of whom he was the ten-day autocrat, with a feeling +of security by his own solid and comfortable appearance. + +A system for passing the time on shipboard I found worked very well, and +I am only too glad to recommend it to any who choose to try it for +themselves. + +Take your coffee about nine in bed in your state room propped up with +numerous pillows, then go through the operation of being shaved if the +offices of a Figaro are required, who may be one of the ship’s stewards. +After this a couple of hours or so may be passed in reading, and for +this a selection of a dozen books or so you may have had placed on the +shelf over your couch, so that you can choose any one which happens to +suit your mood, or, scratch off your thoughts on a block of paper, +always to be carried on your travels, thus taking down rambling notes +where-ever you go. Rising about half an hour before lunch time, you get +up an appetite by sniffing the sea air and chatting with those who are +about. Next comes lunch itself, an important item in the day, which with +its subsequent cigar or pipe can be made to dispose of nearly two hours. +Then approaches the toughest part of the twenty-four portions into which +day and night are subdivided, the time between lunch and dinner. A hand +at poker or _vingt-et-un_ helps it along, a conversation with some fair +one in that favorite spot behind the wheelhouse is a powerful auxiliary, +and, if nothing else turns up, a lazy novel or a siesta would annihilate +the moments until the first bell ringing gives the welcome intimation +that the time for toilette is at hand. + +Dinner, with or without appetite it makes no difference for go through +the form of remaining at table you must, would next take its regular +place in the programme, and that and a cigar well over and digested, you +are ready to sit down to your evening party of whist. Than this there is +no better recreation for passing the hours after dark, and the selection +of a good set of players at an early stage of the voyage is an important +and not to be neglected duty. Is it not probable that the great +Talleyrand, when he advised the young man to learn thoroughly this king +of games at cards out of regard for his declining years, remembered with +pleasure the hours he had thus passed in his journeys by water? So the +evening goes along, the ladies retire, the lights are put out in the +saloon, and the male portion of the community is free to take possession +of the smoking room, there to sit well into the night and to recount +story after story. + +It was thus we existed the ten days of our passage, making pleasant +acquaintances in that free offhand way which gives no binding claim for +future continuance. You meet, you take each other for what you are +worth, you separate, it may be to see each other again some time, it may +be never, and intimacies under such circumstances are quickly formed, +and as quickly forgotten. + +Before we were well aware of it, so speedily the last days on the ocean +flew by, all the passengers being well and overflowing with good +spirits, the bright coast of France loomed up before our eyes in the +distance, the green fields could almost be scented afar off, and there +was bustle and activity in the _Ville de Paris_. Trunks were being +brought up, and people who did not in the least care for each other were +saying good by a dozen times. + +Down goes the anchor with a plunge, the quai at Brest is swarming with +officials and idlers, all chattering like mad, the tug boat sweeps up +before the _douane_, we step ashore, and find ourselves in France. + + + GAY, GAY PARIS. + +How the heart of the American beats with joy whenever he enters Paris, +that queen city of cities, which he regards as almost a second home, +feeling a genuine pride of possession in its beautiful monuments, its +long avenues, its brilliant fêtes, and all its institutions of +instruction and amusement. And cannot a probable reason why the American +takes to it so much more than to any other foreign city,—why the asphalt +of the boulevard is to him almost as dear as the flag-stones of +Broadway,—be found in the fact of the _real democracy_ of the _social +life_ in Paris and France? The government may be a despotism or a +revolution: the annoyances of bureaucracy and red tape are nowhere +greater than there; the petty details of business life amuse and vex +you, but in spite of all, the social life of the people, whether natives +or strangers, is as free as free can be, provided none of the laws of +the land are broken. You come, you go, you do this or you do that, you +can dine at one o’clock on beef and cabbage, or at seven on woodcock +with truffles; you can live in a palace or a _cinquième_; you can go to +the opera in evening dress or blouse; you can study medicine or you can +study pleasure; you can drive in a four-in-hand or in a fiacre; you can +do everything or nothing: whoever you are, or whatever your fortune may +be, no one will interfere; your eccentricities will cause little remark, +you will be unmolested, for all are too much occupied with themselves to +pay much attention to others, and you may be certain that, do your best +to astonish those about you, it will not be easy to offer them a new +sensation. + +I had been there before,—this was my third voyage across the +Atlantic,—and had seen the guide-book sights of the city, and +congratulated myself heartily upon the accomplishment, for it was off my +mind and I would be spared from doing it now. + +One is not likely to forget the sensations experienced during the long +drive from the railroad station to the hotel when first arriving at +Paris, especially if it be after dark, through the brilliantly lighted +streets, across the great squares, full as they always are of the gayest +hearted people in the world, with apparently nothing to do except treat +life as a continual holiday, and I went through it again with the +freshness of a first visit, as we were taken the distance which +separates the _Gare de l’Ouest_ from the Grand Hotel, at which place we +had decided to camp for the night, and leave hunting up some snug +apartment until the morrow. The clock was just striking nine as the +little omnibus came with a clatter and cracking of whip into the +spacious court-yard, and after supper and a short stroll on the +boulevard, I “turned in,” my imagination picturing in rose-colored +dreams all we would do and see. + + + A LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + + Paris, October 22, 1866. + + Dear Mamma: + + My last note must, I think, have been rather unsatisfactory, and I + hasten to do amends with a longer one. The fact was that I arrived in + Paris at the Hotel just about half an hour before the French mail for + the Cunard steamer closed, and I had either to drop just one line to + announce my safe arrival or nothing at all. The voyage over was, like + all, very tedious, and we had pretty bad weather on the whole. Not + knowing where we were at length we ran into a light on the English + coast, and from there made our way down south to Brest, where I landed + and ran right up to Paris. I like the steamer better than the Cunard, + she is very fast, and is much more adapted to the comfort of a + gentleman, especially as there is a cozy little smoking room where you + could play whist in the evenings; also a barber’s shop, and the state + rooms are better arranged. I came up to Paris with Frank Burgess and + Maurice Le Ray (one of the Newport jockeys of the past summer, attaché + to the French legation at Washington, who was a passenger on the + steamer), and Burgess and I have taken some very nice rooms. + + Yesterday morning Charlie Longfellow (Charles Appleton Longfellow, + late lieutenant in the 1st Mass. Cavalry, wounded at Mt. Hope Church, + Va., Nov. 27, 1863. He was the son of the poet Henry W. Longfellow, + who married my half-sister Frances, so was my half-nephew, a year and + some months younger than I), and Harry Stanfield tumbled in upon us, + as they had that very night come over from London, and they gave us + jolly accounts of the doings of the _Alice_ during the past summer. + Brother Tom (Thomas Gold Appleton) and Arthur Clark (Captain of the + _Alice_) sail for home the last of the month. Charlie likes the idea + of going off to Saint Petersburg by and by, so as to get there in the + height of the winter, which time they say is really the best to see + the place, but he wants to stay here a while to brush up his French. + So I think I shall be quartered in Paris for some little time, perhaps + a month, and pitch right into the study of French, and then start off + with him for the cold regions of Europe. + + Tuesday: After writing thus much yesterday I went round to the bank + (Bowles, Drevet & Cie at that time 24 Rue de la Paix) where I found + your letter awaiting me, and I must say that considering you had only + two or three days you have managed to pick up a vast amount of + interesting items. The first Bostonian I met was Hollis Hunnewell. I + have seen my classmates (at Harvard) (Charles C.) Jackson and (Frank + L.) Higginson, and yesterday I called on the Harry Sargents. The + weather is charming now, just right for driving about, and I hope it + will continue so for a month, when we ought to expect the drizzly + rains which will drive me off. There are so many from the “Hub” here + now that Brother Tom’s last _bon mot_ is said to be “All Parisians are + Bostonians.” + + Au revoir. + + Nate. + + + THE YACHT ALICE. + +The sloop yacht _Alice_ was owned by Thomas Gold Appleton. She was about +fifty feet in length and was built by Townsend at Portsmouth, R. I., in +1866. When last heard from she was a trader off the coast of Maine. + +The _Alice_ left Nahant July 12, 1866, arrived at the Needles July 30th, +and Cowes Roads July 31st. It was a remarkable trip and faster than that +of any kind of vessel made across the Atlantic ocean with the then time +allowance. + +Captain Arthur H. Clark was in command, and she carried Charles A. +Longfellow, the owner’s nephew, Harry Stanfield, a crew of three men and +a Chinese steward. The owner, then fifty-four years old, crossed in the +Cunarder _China_, and, joining the _Alice_ at Cowes, cruised off the +French coast and the Channel islands, see _A Cruise of the Alice_ in _A +Sheaf of Papers_, by T. G. Appleton, 1875. + +One of the first business despatches sent by the cable across the +Atlantic, the _Great Eastern_ having successfully landed the cable at +Newfoundland on July 27, 1866, was the safe arrival of the _Alice_, by +C. A. Longfellow. + +The owner thus addresses the beautiful yacht in his collection of poems +called _Faded Leaves_: + +[Illustration: + + YACHT ALICE. +] + + “Away! the cloven waves unite + Behind in murmuring braids of snow, + And seething whispers of delight, + As through the glassy fields we go; + And curtseying with a grace her own + Her bows of beauty in reply, + The white-winged creature moves alone, + Swan-like between the wave and sky. + + · · · · · + + Farewell, dear friend, my floating home; + A menacing finger in the sky + Bids us through summer seas to roam + No more, and from harsh winters fly. + Sleep! dreaming of the violet deep, + And think of us and happy hours, + While we through icy nights shall keep + Thoughts of the sails that once were ours.” + +[Illustration: + + CAPTAIN, PASSENGERS AND CREW OF THE ALICE. +] + +The yacht wintered at Cowes and was brought back the next spring. + + + FROM BROTHER TOM IN LONDON. + + Many thanks, my dear Naty, for your letter and the one enclosed. I + would have been sorry to have missed it, as it is from an old friend, + and in peculiar circumstances, and it would not have been well to have + the letter go astray. And thanks for yours, too, though only + announcing your arrival, and a sketch of your plans. You will do well + to take Charlie and Harry if they will go, and in the winter Saint + Petersburg must be fine, though after all not much beyond in cold + splendor dear old Boston. I am reading a new book on Russia, by Henry + Morley, and find much in it interesting. Today is so dark no one is + up, and I am writing alone.... Who should be here but Townsend, my + boat builder. He could not be quiet, hearing so much of the _Alice_. + Tell Charlie he has gone to Cowes. Don’t you wish you loved yachting, + and could have had the nice time we have had? It beats fancy wagons + and top boots, I assure you. + + Remember me to Charlie and Harry and bid them take care and be prudent + and get into no scrapes. + + Farewell and prosper, and do not leave your whiskers in the snows of + Russia. + + Yr. aff. brother, T. G. Appleton. + + Charing X Hotel, 25th October. + +To my mother I wrote again from Paris, October 26, 1866, Friday:— + + I give you a short letter now which will make two for this week, + enough certainly to satisfy the most rapacious of mothers! I have got + pretty well settled into my life here now, of which one very important + object is the study of French. I take a lesson every morning from a + very good teacher, and go to a theatre most every evening, and I think + I shall make rapid progress, in fact, as we ought to know a good deal + before starting for Russia, it is advantageous to stay here a month + and pitch into it. I have got quite a nice little French phaeton, with + which I can rattle about the town, and drive up to the Bois in the + afternoon, and the great difficulty is to find a decent horse to hire; + my own at home being so very superior my taste has been quite ruined. + I saw all the Imperial cortège out yesterday driving, but I think they + all go to Compiègne soon, so that the season won’t begin here for some + time. + + General de Trobriand is here, and I handed him his commission, whereat + he was in great doubt whether to go home or no. He wants to accept the + commission of colonel of the 31st Infantry U. S. A. Let me know + anything you would like to have me get you in Paris. I can easily find + time to get it. Exchange is so different from when I was here before + (On leave of absence on account of wound during the war.) that one can + well be extravagant. + + Nathan. + + + GENERAL DE TROBRIAND. + + General de Trobriand, author of _Quatre ans de campagnes à l’armée du + Potomac_ (_Four Years in the Army of the Potomac_) 1867, Paris, + Bruxelles, (translated) whose full name is Philippe Regis Denis de + Kerodem, Baron de Trobriand, was born near Tours, France, June 4, + 1816. In the United States he was known as Philippe Regis de + Trobriand. From 1849 to 1861, in New York, he was editorially + connected with first the _Revue de Nouveau Monde_, of which he was + publisher, and then the _Courrier des Etats Unis_, as associate + editor. In August, 1861, he was placed in command of the 55th New York + Regiment, U. S. V. of the Third Corps, promoted to Brigadier General + in January, 1864, and from May to June of that year had charge of the + defenses of New York City. He was brevetted Major General U. S. V. + April 9, 1865, and was in command of a Division at Lee’s surrender. In + 1867, he was made colonel in the Regular army and placed in command of + the 31st Regt. U. S. Infantry, brevetted Brigadier General in the same + year, commanding the district of Dakota, and in 1869, was transferred + to the district of Montana and the colonelcy of the 13th U. S. + Infantry. Later he was ordered to Green River. + + I visited him at Camp Douglas, near Salt Lake City, in October, 1870, + and had a good opportunity of observing western army life and the + institution of Mormonism. The camp was prettily placed on the slope of + a hill, with quarters comfortably arranged. Several of the officers + had their wives with them which made quite a little society. I stayed + in the General’s house and had a horse at my disposal whenever I + wanted to take a ride, and so I explored some of the picturesque and + grand scenery of the neighborhood with the snow capped mountains quite + near. To go into the city we generally took the headquarters wagon and + did the thing in style. + + General de Trobriand was the father-in-law of my friend and classmate + Albert Kintzing Post, so naturally our relations were most friendly, + and I have often met him on both sides of the ocean. He was in New + Orleans in 1875, during the reconstruction period, after he retired + from service on account of age, having been stationed there for some + years. + + In 1885, during the Cotton Exposition I lunched with him at his house + in New Orleans, and met him and some friends one day at the grounds, + where we strolled about, and had a picnic repast under the trees. In + 1887, at Paris I saw him again. It was in the summer, and at my + suggestion he joined the “Franco-American,” known first as the + “Washington,” Club, and he enjoyed dining there at the _table d’hôte_ + with agreeable companions. + + The General came on to Class Day at Harvard, to hear the poem + delivered by his grandson Waldron Kintzing Post, the son of my old + classmate, when he graduated in June, 1890, to attend the “spread” and + other festivities, and then one evening we had a little family dinner + at the Somerset Club. After passing a few days at the “Masconomo,” + Manchester-by-the-Sea, with his daughter and her family, he went to + the Reunion of the Society of the Army of the Potomac, at Portland, + Maine, July 3d and 4th, where he was enthusiastically received by the + comrades of his old Corps the Third, and elected vice president of the + Society to represent the Third Corps, Army of the Potomac. At that + meeting I was elected a vice president in behalf of the Fifth Corps, + it being the custom to elect every year, in addition to the president, + vice presidents and other officers of the society, a vice president + from each army corps that was in the Army of the Potomac. + + My last meeting with General de Trobriand was at the wedding of his + grand daughter Lina Beatrice Post to Hamilton Fish Webster, at the + Long Island summer home of the Posts. This was the autumn of 1891, and + a pretty wedding it was in the little church, and a breakfast later + under a large marquee. Of the grandparents of the young couple present + at the wedding, besides General de Trobriand, there were Mrs. Armand + de Macarty, grandmother of the bride, and the Hon. Hamilton Fish, + grandfather of the groom. + + General de Trobriand died at the home of his daughter in Bayport, Long + Island, July 15, 1897. + + + TO MY MOTHER. + + Hotel de la Paix, Paris, + October 31, 1866. + + My dear Mamma: + +I have been calling on several of our good old Boston citizens, but have +not found many of them at home. I went to the Louvre the other day, and +found that lots of new galleries had been added, with all my friends of +the French school put together, and I reveled in Watteau, Boucher, and +Fragonard. I do not do much sight-seeing, and don’t care to, but +tomorrow I am going out to Versailles with a party of ladies to finish +up the chateau. This afternoon Charlie Longfellow goes with me driving +in the Bois. Yesterday evening Charlie, Stanfield and Burgess and I went +to the “Lyrique” and saw Faust very well put upon the stage. It was the +first time I had ever seen or heard the opera, and I thought it very +fine. Charlie and I shall start off for Russia probably in the course of +a month, as we are not in any hurry and we are to find out about what +will be the best season to be there and then hit it. Charlie is studying +his French very industriously, and oddly enough he has tumbled into the +very same rooms that Erny (His brother Ernest Longfellow.) had a year +ago. I got a letter from brother Tom at London, a few days before he +sailed. He seemed in good spirits over the triumphs of the _Alice_. + +Friday Morn: Yesterday I had a very good though somewhat fatiguing day +at Versailles, and I should have enjoyed the pictures very much if I +could see them by degrees; but there are so many millions that one +glance at them was all you could get. Some of those illustrating the +wars of the present emperor in the Crimea, Italy and Algeria, are very +fine. We had a young French “swell” to chaperon us, and of course saw +all the best things, such as the private apartments of the Louis’ and +Marie Antoinette. I visited with Charlie, on Wednesday, Jerome +Napoleon’s Pompeiian villa, which is now a concert room and well repays +a visit. I don’t think the Pompeiian magnates themselves had anything +quite up to it. Charlie and H. Stanfield still keep up their yachting +fever and go to Asniéres on the Seine quite near Paris, and sail in a +small yacht which some French count whom they met at Dieppe, has placed +at their disposition. The de Trobriands leave for Brest in a few days, +to pass the winter there as the General wishes quiet to finish his book +before rejoining the army. + + + LATER: RESOLVE IN FAVOR OF ST. PETERSBURG. + +Here I am at my desk, having finished my French lessons, and having +written a long business letter, to find something to put upon paper in +reply to “No. 3.” + +The Boulevard and the Rue de la Paix with the Grand Opera and the Grand +Hotel are just opposite, and below in the streets there is a continual +excitement of passing objects; vehicles and pedestrians, soldiers and +beggars, but principally Americans. There is always so much going on all +around, that our apartment is not, perhaps, the best adapted for the +quiet pursuit of literature. You see I am still in Paris, and perhaps +you wonder whether I mean to leave at all. Know then that Charlie and I +have made a vigorous resolution to pack up and be off the 25th of this +month, stopping at Brussels, Berlin, Königsberg on the Baltic, and +Wilna, to Saint Petersburg, and then Moscow, thus seeing the real winter +life of the Russians. I think it will be a plendid trip. From Moscow we +may go to Odessa, etc., but this is very doubtful, and we shall probably +return viâ Warsaw to Dresden, where we separate—I for Vienna, and he +back to Paris. + +[Illustration: + + RUE DE LA PAIX À PARIS +] + + A REVIEW BY NAPOLEON III. + + Thursday Eve: A few days ago, Charlie Jackson drove out with me to + Longchamps, where the Emperor had quite a large review of the troops + around Paris. There were, perhaps, fifteen thousand troops there, and + as it was the first thing of the kind I had seen in Europe, it was + very interesting and imposing, and brought back something of the old + military ardor. The Emperor and Prince were there, but Napoleon looked + rather shakey. He is no longer young. + + I saw Mr. T. B. Curtis for a few minutes yesterday and thought he was + seeming quite well after his sickness. He told me particularly to “go + it, while” I was “young,” adding that he “had had his time.” His + advice is certainty good. At the American chapel last Sunday were + crowds and crowds of people, but very, very few whom I recognized. The + same day Robert H. Stevenson and I went to the last races of the + season, and saw a very fair steeple chase, but as it was some ways out + of Paris there were not many there. + + + A LETTER FROM MY MOTHER. + +My mother in Boston wrote me in Paris, Nov. 11, 1866,—... “And Charlie +Longfellow is in Paris! All that is left in Boston will soon find its +way there. I had a very pleasant visit from your brother Tom last +evening, telling me of the _Alice_, and of all his doings. Ristori +(tragedienne) has reigned supreme here for two weeks, and everybody has +cried to their satisfaction. I did not dare to see her for I felt that I +should not sleep for a month after it.” + + + ADELAIDE RISTORI. + + I first saw Adelaide Ristori, mentioned in my mother’s letter, at the + theatre at Havana, in Medea, when I was there in February, 1868, and I + met her and her daughter Bianca at a reception given at the hotel. + Later, in the summer of 1884, at Paris, I was taken to her apartment + by Mr. Henry F. Gillig, president of the American Exchange in Europe, + and saw her and her husband the Marquis Giuliano Capranica del Grillo, + just as they were preparing to leave the city for their trip to + America. I remember that the rooms were encumbered with their baggage, + which was in every stage of packing for their departure. The following + winter 1884–5, when I was living at the Vendome Hotel, Boston, I + called upon them at the Tremont House, and introduced to them Mr. C. + C. Perkins, one of our citizens most prominent in music, art, + literature, etc., who was very desirous of meeting the great + tragedienne. He chatted with her in her native language, as he had + long resided in Italy, and had written several books when there. + + + LA DIVA, CAFÉ NAPOLITAINE. + TO MY MOTHER FROM PARIS, NOV. 15, 1866. + +Charlie dropped in yesterday just before dinner, and we decided to start +on the 24th, 25th, or 26th, for Brussels, and then have a look at +Waterloo; thence to Berlin to buy fur coats, and so to Russia. Went to +the Italian opera last night and heard “Crispino e la Camare” (“The +Cobbler and the Fairy.”) sung by dear little Patti. She has improved +much since I saw her two or three years ago in America, and quite +captivated me. I should make her acquaintance if I was to remain long, +as she prides herself on being American, and goes to Mrs. John Bigelow’s +soirées. At the Café Napolitaine later a crowd of Boston men tumbled in. +It is our favorite resort for smoking our nocturnal cigar,—George Weld, +Ned Johnson, Bob Stevenson, and others. The great talk is the winter +ocean race between three of the New York Club yachts, the _Henrietta_ +(owned by James Gordon Bennett, Jr.), _Fleetwing_, and _Vesta_. (The +_Henrietta_ with her owner on board won the race.) In that case the +_Alice_ will have to be put afloat again. Well, adieu for a week, and +then my last from Paris. + + Nathan. + +Adelina Patti, now (1904) Baroness Cederstrom, was in Boston in 1885, +and I happened to be introduced to her early in that year when I was +living at the Vendome. She was with her second husband, Nicolini. + + + THE NEW YORK YACHT CLUB. + + May 17, 1866, I was notified that at a meeting held that day I was + admitted a member of the New York Yacht Club. The yacht _Henrietta_, + owned by James Gordon Bennett Jr., belonged to the squadron. Bennett’s + colors were a blue diamond and a red crescent on white ribbons. + + I once had the pleasure of calling upon Mr. James Gordon Bennett + Senior. It was one Sunday morning, in the spring of 1872, when I was + on a visit to America. I was strolling up Fifth Avenue with Mr. + Leonard W. Jerome. As we came to Mr. Bennett’s house on the corner of + 38th street, he proposed that we should go in and pay a visit to the + old gentleman, who was then very infirm and evidently destined not + long to live. I was delighted at the opportunity of seeing him, for + although I had stayed with his son at their fine place at Washington + Heights, and often dined at the city mansion, I had never been able to + be introduced to the father, as he was quite unwell, and generally + confined to his room. + + We were shown up stairs to a small study, where Mr. Bennett was seated + in a comfortable easy chair, in a loose dressing gown, with a quantity + of the daily newspapers lying around him. We sat there conversing with + him some time, and I remember his speaking of the proposed plan of + rapid transit for New York, and how he had, years before, advocated + the idea in his paper, the New York _Herald_. He spoke very strongly + of the future growth of the city. It was only a few months after I saw + him that he died. + + + THE FOUR-IN-HAND CLUB. + + Near Mr. Bennett’s place at Washington Heights and the Hudson River + the Four-in Hand Club had a house for several years. I remember + driving there for a ball the autumn of 1870, with Colonel William Jay + and a party of ladies, and then returning through some of the + unfinished roads, nearly upsetting on the way. The Club was started, + as far as I can remember in 1866. I was elected a member January 20th + of that year; the idea of membership being any one who had a + “four-in-hand,” “spike,” or “unicorn,”—three horses, two in the pole + and one on the lead,—“tandem,” i. e. something different from the + ordinary single horse or pair hitch. I had a tandem at the time. The + president was George Griswold Gray, whom I had known at Newport. The + Club came to an end, but I cannot say what year. The Coaching or + Four-in-Hand Club of New York has taken its place. + + + JAMES GORDON BENNETT, JR. + + My first recollection of meeting Mr. James Gordon Bennett Jr., was on + the deck of his yacht _Henrietta_, at the spring meeting of the New + York Yacht Club, June 19, 1866. + + I had been the guest, on his yacht, of Commodore McVickar (W. H. + McVickar, one of the incorporators of the New York Yacht Club and its + commodore in 1866. He died in New York, Nov. 25, 1896, aged 78.) when + Mr. William C. Otis was fleet captain, and some time during the + afternoon we paid a call upon the young captain of the _Henrietta_. + This was in the harbor of New York, and a very pretty scene it was. + Later on, i. e. during the summer of 1870, on my return from Europe, + where I had often seen Mr. Bennett in Paris at the Washington Club, he + invited me to join a party on his new yacht the _Dauntless_ at New + London, and make the cruise from there to Newport, which I did. + + We were a jolly party,—Lawrence Jerome, Harry Stanfield, A. W. + Knapp and others. With reference to James Gordon Bennett Jr., in a + letter from Newport to the Boston _Globe_ in August 1876, I + remarked:—“Newport certainly owes a great deal this year to the + enterprise of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, in introducing the games + of polo and la crosse, for the afternoon reunions at the polo + grounds have become one of the most delightful features of the + life here this summer, and Mr. Bennett has proved himself to be as + much at home astride of his pony, as he was not many years ago on + the deck of his yacht, when he gallantly offered his services to + the government during the civil war, (He was with the blockading + fleet in his yacht from 1861 to 1865.) or when he pluckily scudded + across the Atlantic in mid-winter for the great ocean race.” + + In 1881 and 1882, I remember dining at his house, the old Brooks + greystone mansion on Bellevue Avenue, Newport, where he entertained + with generous hospitality, as also, at his New York home, Fifth Avenue + corner of 38th street. He had a fine, old fashioned family butler, who + seemed to take delight in looking after the comfort of his friends and + guests. The last time I was in the New York house was at lunch with + the Austin Corbins, who had then rented and afterwards purchased it. + This was in 1886. Austin Corbin, financier and philanthropist was + killed by being thrown from his carriage at his country place at + Newport, N. H., in June, 1896, aged 69. + + In Paris too, I would occasionally meet Mr. Bennett, and he generally + made some enquiry about the Panama Canal. + + + POLO AND HORSE-RACING. + +What I have seen both of polo and horse-racing has made me consider them +both, if not actually cruel sports for horses, at least those in which a +great deal of unnecessary hard treatment is inflicted upon the poor +animals who try to do their best. In polo they seem to be jerked about +indiscriminately, and whacked over the head and body by the polo +mallets. In running races the use of the whip and spur is often an +abomination. I have seen a horse straining his utmost and at the same +time receiving the cruel blows of the whip in a way which might +naturally discourage him from making his best efforts, but which in +addition to this, by cramping his nerves and muscles, must actually keep +him back instead of leading him on. Often, too, this is done to some +horse so far behind that he can have no chance of winning the race. I +believe horses are frequently demoralized and even made vicious from the +senseless and inhuman treatment they receive. To get the best out of a +horse you have only to encourage, not discourage him. He understands +more than we give him credit for. + +My only experience as the owner of a race horse was during the spring of +1866, when I had bought a very pretty and graceful little animal, which +had the name of “Carolina Filly.” She had been secured after the war by +General Joseph J. Bartlett, who sold her to Mr. George W. Weld, from +whom I bought her. She ran under my colors, blue and silver, once at +Clyde Park, now the Country Club, but was not victorious. + + + RACES ON THE NEWPORT BEACH. + +At 4.30 p. m. on the 30th of August, 1866, there was a flat race and +steeple chase at Newport, at which 13 horses were entered, and an +account of which appeared in the local press, as follows:— + +[Illustration: + + GENTLEMEN RIDERS OF THE NEWPORT RACE +] + + Newport has really had another sensation, in fact has been convulsed + to its “head” centre. (Allusion to Fenianism then very rampant.) Yes, + the old town has been startled by the spectacle of no less a modern + invention than a hurdle race! + + “Is Saratoga to do all the racing?” muttered the Newport Jockey Club, + “Are there not greener laurels to be gathered in other fields? We have + no track it is true, yet we can make tracks. Our horses have not + received a university education, but what of that? _We_ have. We will + show them how to surmount difficulties. We will be our own jockeys, + and risk our own gentlemanly lives. It shall be neck or nothing.” + + So it was settled there should be a race, and for the past week + Fashion has talked itself eloquent over the matter of hurdles. On + Thursday the excitement culminated when Easton’s Beach, where Channing + once drew inspiration, and where since, the lesser mortals have “drawn + their slow length along” in the moist costume of the sea, found itself + transformed into a race course, and its classic sands desecrated by + the presence of hurdles! + + One great charm of the affair was to be its selectness. Only you and I + and our dear five hundred friends were to know anything about it. It + was to be a _bonne bouche_ for our private eating. Yet, strange to + say, five hundred people never can keep a secret, and the little + family party turned out to be the largest concourse of bipeds and + quadrupeds that Newport has seen for many a day. Fashion glittered and + shone, respectable elderly parties fairly thrilled with excitement. + Newport rich and Newport poor, stood side by side in every species of + vehicle, from barouche to butcher’s wagon. (There were about 7000 + spectators and 500 carriages.) The way in which most of the horses + shied around the hurdles, bolted and did everything but go over them, + was delectable. Yet, let not the Jockey Club be disparaged. + Considering the circumstances its gallant members covered themselves + with glory,—a few of them were additionally covered with something of + a more clinging nature. One daring rider (Nathan Appleton) landed on + his head, another (Prince Ourousoff) mingled himself with the sands of + the sea, but all lived to tell the short but moving tale, and the + winner (Baron de Mesnil of Belgium) lived to receive a silver cup from + the hands of the lady (Mrs. Paran Stevens) who had been most actively + interested in the day’s sport. Thus does beauty reward the brave. In + honor of the _fait accompli_ the Jockey Club will give a fête the + beginning of next week. (Captain Harry Russell of Narragansett Avenue + was declared winner of the second race, which was a steeple chase, the + first one having been over a flat course of beach.) Pursuant to this + announcement cards were issued by the Gentlemen Riders of the Newport + Race, inviting their friends to the Jockeys’ Ball on Monday, September + 3d, 1866, at the Academy of Music. + + + TEN YEARS LATER. A RETROSPECT. + +Speaking of horse races in a letter from Newport to the Boston _Globe_, +under date of August 26, 1876, I called to mind the events of ten years +previous:— + + “We have only to look up the records of ten years ago, and we will + find that then at least, perhaps even long before, they had taken + place. Ah! It was a brilliant season, that of 1866. We were a jolly + crowd, representing the _jeunesse dorée_ of many nations. There was a + young Russian Prince, several Frenchmen,—one representative of the old + _noblesse_ and another of the Napoleonic regime,—a sturdy Belgian, and + plenty of Americans, some fresh from the excitement of the war a year + before. And we had races on the beach when many were the mishaps that + befell the riders. One of them, needless to say who, had a + hard-mouthed horse which he could not control, and so, near the + finish, rushing up among the assembled crowd of carriages he + distinguished himself by leaping clear over a pony-phaeton, in which + were two young ladies, and then depositing himself half-stunned in the + sand. The account of this may be found in the old files of the Newport + _News_ but a better souvenir of it still remains for those who took + part, in the shape of a colored print now in the Country Club in + Brookline, which was published by one of the riders, an Irish + nobleman, Viscount Southwell, from his own sketch, in which he gives a + fanciful representation of the great race for a cup presented by Mrs. + Paran Stevens, the lady who then, as now (1876) presided so graciously + over many of Newport’s hospitalities and festivities, and whose + charming villa could tell many a tale of ‘vanished summer glory.’” + + + THE RACE AT NEWPORT. + +The colored print of the race in the Country Club, by Viscount +Southwell, represents the race as if it was on the turf instead of the +sands of the beach, as was actually the case, but this was to make it +more natural, as it was the only kind of race to which he was +accustomed. In fact racing on the beach was a new departure, and I have +heard it stated that this was the first one with “gentlemen riders” +which had ever occurred, in the Northern States at least. He brought in +on the slope of the hill leading down to the beach, the coach and +four-in-hand of Hon. August Belmont, who had at that time the most +correct equipages to be found in our country. Mr. Belmont in those days +drove occasionally “en daumont,” i.e. four horses attached to an open +barouche with _postillons_ dressed for summer in jackets, top boots and +tall white hats, as you see them in Europe. + +Mr. G. G. Gray would at times bring out his open break with five horses, +three at the wheel, then two, and one on the lead, a very fanciful and +effective rig. I must not forget that at the Country Club there is also +a satin programme of the race, with the names of the horses, their +owners and riders, contributed by some other person. It makes the affair +complete, and it is a valuable relic of those old days of gayety. + +In the summer of 1882, Mr. Ely Goddard had some marvellous turnouts. He +had a fancy for horses of bay and white, like those you see in the +circus, and often call “wishing horses,” and managed to drive them +four-in-hand, unicorn, three abreast, tandem, a pair, or even one alone. +It was really remarkable how he could find so many of these variegated +animals to serve his purpose. + + + THE WASHINGTON CLUB. + +As far as I can remember, the Washington Club in Paris, to which I refer +in my recollections of James Gordon Bennett Jr., was started in the +winter of 1868 and ’69, the idea being to have it a purely American +club, on the same principles as those in the United States. I was not +one of the incorporators, but joined it shortly after it was organized, +and May 8, 1869, was elected one of the board of direction. + +I hardly know what to say of the Washington Club, so many souvenirs does +it now recall. Mr. Willett, always known as “Bronnie” Willett, was the +first secretary, and I succeeded him in the first year, 1869, and +continued until 1872. Mr. W. Pembroke Fetridge and I were the two most +active persons in bringing Americans there, and having them join as +temporary or permanent members. + +While I held the position of secretary I kept the records very +carefully, and one of the notes regarding membership I have now in my +scrapbook from the pen of Mr. A. J. Drexel, of the banking house of +Drexel, Harjes & Co.:— + + 3 Rue Scribe, Paris. + January 4, 1869 + + My dear Sir. + + I am in receipt of the notification of my election to the “Washington + Club.” + + After authorizing Mr. Bowles to propose my name, upon reflecting that + my stay here would be so short that it would be of no use to me to + join, I concluded to ask him when I saw him again, not to do so, and + therefore prefer declining to become a member, altho’ the Club has my + hearty sympathy. + + Wishing, however, that one of our firm should become a member, I beg + of you to propose the name of our Mr. Eugene Winthrop in my place. + Hoping this substitution will be satisfactory to you + + I remain very truly yours, + A. J. Drexel. + + N. Appleton, Esq. + +The first apartment the Washington Club occupied was a good suite of +rooms, well adapted to its uses at that time, belonging to Dr. Thomas W. +Evans in the Rue Auber, which he offered to the Club free of rent. They +were, however, too high up, on the third floor, and not quite large +enough, and during the summer of 1869, it was decided to take an +apartment at the corner of the old Rue de la Paix, by the opening, or +rather the beginning of the Avenue de l’Opera, diagonally across from +the Grand Hotel, the first floor over the _entresol_. + +When I returned from Egypt and the opening of the Suez Canal, I wrote my +sister in Boston, December 19th, 1869, “We Americans have just got into +our new club rooms on the corner of the Boulevard, what was formerly the +Rue de la Paix (Now Place de l’Opera), and a new street cut through to +the Bourse. It is the finest situation in Paris, and we are in a most +prosperous state, and begin to wonder how we ever got on without a club +before.” + +It soon became popular in the American colony, and a rendezvous for the +transient travellers. + +Mr. Lorillard Spencer was the president, and Mr. J. F. Loubat the +treasurer. I have preserved the receipt of my payment of 500 francs for +membership. It is number 7, dated May 28, 1869, and signed by J. F. +Loubat, who at the present time (1904) is le Duc de Loubat, a title he +received from the Pope. + +In New York, on September 28, 1873, he presented to me his book entitled +“Narrative of the Mission to Russia in 1866, of the Hon. Gustavus Vasa +Fox, Assistant Secretary of the Navy. From the Journal and Notes of J. +F. Loubat.” + +Mr. Wm. Pembroke Fetridge, Mr. Alfred Lockwood, Mr. de la Chaise, Dr. +“Tom” Pratt, Mr. Sheppard, Armand Voisin, the Lorillards, George and +Louis, Elisha Riggs, John Garcia and Augustus Samanos, both Cubans, +Lloyd Phœnix, James Gordon Bennett, and others, were active members of +the Club. Indeed the membership included many noted and rich Americans, +with the Minister, Consul General, and other officials of the U. S. +Government, as honorary members. + +At that time there was no restaurant, but reading and card rooms, a +billiard table and bar, and plenty of American newspapers. + +The rooms extended around the corner of the Boulevard des Italiens. When +I returned to Paris about a week or ten days after the collapse of the +Commune, in May, 1871, I was one of the first to look in upon the old +club, and it was in many respects a scene of desolation. + +The Versailles troops who came down the Rue Auber, found it right in +their line of shooting, as they attacked the Communists, and many were +the broken windows and glasses in the different rooms. + +I picked up a lot of bullets, or found them in the walls, and, knowing +how soon they would be lost or disappear, had them neatly arranged in a +case under glass, to preserve them, an interesting relic of the Commune. + +Several of us members of the club met there one afternoon, and were +endeavoring in various ways to be reasonably gay under the +circumstances, when one who was by his family partly related to France +appeared, and thought it was all wrong for us to be so light-hearted in +the day of France’s trouble. We said, on the contrary, that we thought +we ought all to make the best of the situation, and so help retrieve the +sadness of the past, and so we did. + +The club still exists, and we old members have been given the privilege +of life membership, so that we can avail ourselves of its rooms whenever +we may happen to be in Paris. This adds much to the comfort of a sojourn +there, as the table d’hôte breakfast at twelve, and dinner at seven, +were as good as any to be had in Paris, while the view from the balcony +is a perpetual delight. + +I have often been there since, but the club name has been changed to +that of “Le Cercle Franco-Américain,” so as to admit persons of various +nationalities. + +An interesting album of portraits of the prominent members, painted by +Mr. Armand Dumaresq, was one of its attractions when I was there in +1887. Mine was very good, and under my name I had written “le Champion +de Panama.” + +The autumn of 1894, part of September, all of October, and part of +November, I passed in Paris, to find out what the new Panama Canal +Company proposed to do, and also to place the bronze marker of the +Society of the Sons of the American Revolution by the grave of Lafayette +in Picpus Cemetery, Paris. While there I noticed the apartment of the +Franco-American Club was closed, and was told how it happened to be so, +but that the members could go to the “Cercle des Capucines” nearly +opposite, on the other side of the boulevard of that name. I went there +one afternoon, and sent up my card, and was cordially received by my old +friend, William Pembroke Fetridge, Lynch, Davis, and others, and +Fetridge invited me to dine with some of them which I did. + + + FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1866. + +“I have received this last week your nice letter of October 30. I read +it to Longfellow, and he was pleased to hear so much of Charlie. He +says, ‘Do caution the boys to guard their ears and noses in going to +Russia. They are frozen before one is aware of it, and once thoroughly +chilled you never recover from the effects.’ + +Monday evening: I have been to Cambridge again today. Your ‘Brother +Henry’ (Longfellow) has seen a Russian gentleman who tells him November +is too early in the season to go there.” + + + TO MY MOTHER FROM PARIS, NOVEMBER 21, 1866. + +[Illustration: + + TROIKA. +] + +This is my last from Paris for some time. I tear myself from the +distractions and gayeties, from the Bois and the dance, to meet the +frantic embrace of the Russian bear. I am quite crazy about the St. +Petersburg trip, my anticipations are so high, and we long so to be off, +and every night I fall asleep dreaming of driving troikas with three +horses about the streets of St. Petersburg and Moscow, skating the +American touch on the Neva, endless flirtations with Russian Princesses +and Polish Countesses in the salons and boudoirs of St. Petersburg. All +this, too, is a _terra incognita_, and our life is not all cut and dried +for us, as in Rome or Paris. My plan is this,—to pass the winter just +where it will be agreeable, St. P., Moscow, or Vienna, or perhaps a trip +to Greece and Constantinople, with the Carnival in Venice, but +_certainly_ return to Paris in April for the Exposition, and London for +the season, and then to America early in the summer. However, if you +want me to come, if you feel nervous or unwell, don’t hesitate a moment +to write me, and I can easily and without regret turn about. On +Saturday, at five, I leave Burgess alone, much to his regret, and +Charlie and self go to Brussels, where we arrive just exactly in time +for the “revelry by night,” a peep at Waterloo, if not too cold, and +then on to Berlin to congratulate Bismarck on the state of Europe, +through Poland to Russia, a journey of a few days only. You will be +pleased to know that I have not yet lost your little package for Eliza +Carnatz, and I doubt not that it will reach her in safety. On Friday I +dine at the T. B. Curtis’s, and on Wednesday with Weld and a lot of men +at “Philippe’s.” Have you ever heard about my horses, if they are well? +I trust they will do the winter comfortably. Don’t you want me to bring +you home a nice little French “Victoria” this summer, instead of the old +family ark? (The old family carriage imported by my uncle Samuel +Appleton and after his death, in 1853, taken by my father.) As to the +Bois, I can safely say that if I had my Boston turnout here complete +there would not be a prettier one in Paris. + +Thursday: I am reading now with my French teacher, Théophile Gautier’s +_Voyage en Russie_, and find it most entertaining and instructive, +particularly as he gives a _couleur de rose_ account of the winter +amusements.... I take up my pen for the third time to finish this, but +you know there is never the least opportunity of doing anything in +Paris, or even of finishing what is begun, and except my weekly letters +to you I have scarcely written at all. My groom has just been amusing +himself with packing up some of my traps, as I have one good sized trunk +to leave in Paris full of summer clothes, which I don’t think I shall +want, and odds and ends I have picked up here. + +Received an invitation yesterday from the Bishop of Pennsylvania, to +confer with him on matters of importance for the church in Paris. + + + ADIEU TO PARIS. + +Today is dull and dreary out, but except for the Bois it makes little +difference in P. + +I leave my phaeton, etc., at the Bank. I am going to try to find William +Hunt, the artist, today. Well, I close and take this to the mail. Adieu +to Paris and _mes beaux jours—en route_!—Russia and the North! Love to +all. + + Nate. + + + WILLIAM MORRIS HUNT. + +While he lived I regarded William M. Hunt as the first American artist, +certainly in the line of portrait painting. I wanted for a long time to +possess one of his pictures, and I would have liked to have had him +paint my own portrait, but I never had the opportunity of doing so. + +One day in 1866, just before he was to sail for Europe, I went to his +studio, and after some talk with him, he said he would let me have the +head of Lincoln, which he had painted as a study for the full length +portrait now in Faneuil Hall, for eight hundred dollars, currency. I +agreed to purchase it and the bargain was made. He told me that he +wanted to take it with him to Paris, that he might exhibit it at the +great Exhibition of 1867, and I was pleased at this, and readily acceded +to it, as I thought the portrait would have an additional interest and +value from having been there. It was understood that I should not pay +for the picture until it was delivered to me, and a bill of sale was +made out to this effect. I afterwards saw the portrait both at Mr. +Hunt’s studio at Paris, and also in the American department of the +Exhibition, where it attracted considerable attention, and I gave myself +no concern as to when I should own it. + +It so happened that the painting never came into my possession before my +financial troubles in 1872, and after that, of course, I no longer +thought of having it. + +After his death by drowning (He was found dead in the water.) at +Appledore, Isles of Shoals, N. H., Sept. 8, 1879, his widow, the late +Mrs. Louisa D. Hunt, was very disinclined to part with it, and so I +never pressed my claim. According to a provision in her will a large +number of his paintings and charcoal drawings were sold at public +auction and the Lincoln portrait was reserved at the sale in February, +1898, at the request of the Government. Mr. Hunt was a curious man, +brilliant, full of eccentricities, and very fascinating in certain +moods. His age was only fifty-five when he died. + +Regarding the portrait I received the following note, dated May 5, +1866:— + + My dear Appleton, + + If you would like my portrait of President Lincoln you will please let + me know or Mr. Jere. Abbott. My price for it is $800. I should like + the privilege of taking it to England with me, and will return it to + you in a few months in case you desire it. + + Yours truly, + Wm. M. Hunt, + 16 Summer St. + + In care of Abbott & Howard, Kilby St., Boston. + +There was at the time I refer to, 1865–1866 (It was on the list at the +sale.), a beautiful landscape of the Forest of Fontainebleau I ought to +have bought, but did not. I once had in my collection of paintings one +which had belonged to my brother, T. G. A., a small picture, with a +church in the background, and in the foreground several sheaves of +wheat, and peasants returning to their houses from the field, with the +light of a setting sun. It had the touch and the glow of the master. + +[Illustration: + + ABRAHAM LINCOLN. +] + + + + + CHAPTER SECOND + LINCOLN AND EMANCIPATION + + + ABRAHAM LINCOLN + + “All merit comes + From braving the unequal: + All glory comes from daring to begin: + Fame loves the state + That, reckless of the sequel, + Fights long and well, whether it lose or win.” + —_Eugene F. Ware_ + +I have always regretted that I never had the privilege of making the +acquaintance of President Lincoln. I remember having met him one summer +at Washington during the war, as he was driving to the Soldiers’ Home,—a +few miles out of the city where he passed the hot season,—in an open +carriage with an escort of cavalry, which was a rare sight for a +President of the United States, until the requirements of war and the +treasonable elements which pervaded society in Washington seemed to make +such a precaution advisable. This was civil war with its unseen dangers +in the nation’s capital. I can just remember his sad face, which +appeared full of the responsibilities of the situation, as he drove +along. + + + LINCOLN AND EMANCIPATION. + +The antislavery movement in the United States, began in the mountains of +the South by Benjamin Lundy, of Wheeling, West Virginia. He published a +paper called “The Genius of Universal Emancipation,” first at Mount +Pleasant, Ohio, afterwards at Jonesville, East Tennessee, and in 1824, +he removed it to Baltimore, Md. + +In 1825, Miss Frances Wright, a youthful and enthusiastic +philanthropist, established ten miles east of Memphis, Tenn., a manual +training school, in which each negro was to be freed as soon as he +proved himself capable of self support. She was a friend of Lafayette, +who was keenly interested in the plan, but it failed, and she took her +slaves to Hayti, where she settled them on land granted by the Haitian +government, freed them, and left them there. + +All this was before the organization of the New England Antislavery +Society, which was formed in 1832, by William Lloyd Garrison, returning +from Baltimore where he had been associated with Lundy. + +On December 6, 1847, Abraham Lincoln took his seat in the Thirtieth +Congress as a member from the state of Illinois. He was thirty-eight +years of age, and six feet four inches in height. His character and +principles are thus briefly and truthfully described by J. G. Holland, +in reviewing his public career:— + +“He introduced them to a new national life. He has given them a +statesman without a statesman’s craftiness, a politician without a +politician’s meannesses, a great man without a great man’s vices, a +philanthropist without a philanthropist’s impracticable dreams, a +Christian without pretensions, a ruler without the pride of place and +power, an ambitious man without selfishness, and a successful man +without vanity.” + +His position in the Thirtieth Congress on all the principal points at +issue were of the Whig party, and in the second session he began his +work for the abolishment of slavery in the District of Columbia in which +the national capital is situated, by introducing on the 16th of January, +1849, a measure which he intended as a substitute for a resolution +introduced by Mr. Gott of New York, instructing the Committee of the +District of Columbia to report a bill prohibiting the slave trade in the +District. Mr. Lincoln’s substitute provided that no person not within +the District, and no person thereafter born within the District should +be held to slavery within the District, or held to slavery without its +limits, while it provided that those holding slaves in the slave states +might bring them in and take them out again when visiting the District +on public business. It also provided for the emancipation of all the +slaves legally held within the District, at the will of their masters, +who could claim their full value at the hands of the Government, and +that the act itself should be subject to the approval of the voters of +the District. It had also a proviso to restore to their owners all +fugitive slaves escaping into the District. + +Mr. Lincoln regarded slavery as property under the Constitution. Legally +he believed slavery to be right, morally he believed it to be wrong. + +On the presentation of this bill Mr. Lincoln had a considerable number +of influential supporters in the District, but they subsequently +withdrew, and the subject was given up, to be revived again, under +circumstances impossible to be foretold, thirteen years after. + +Speaking in 1859, on the slave power, he said:—“Broken by it, I, too, +may be, bow to it I never will. The probability that we may fail in the +struggle, ought not to deter us from the support of a cause which I deem +to be just, and it shall not deter me. If ever I feel the soul within me +elevate and expand to those dimensions not wholly unworthy of its +Almighty Architect, it is when I contemplate the cause of my country, +deserted by all the world besides, and I, standing up boldly and alone, +and hurling defiance at her victorious oppressors. Here, without +contemplating consequences, before high Heaven, and in the face of the +world, I swear eternal fidelity to the just cause, as I deem it, of the +land of my life, my liberty, and my love.” + +On March 4th, 1861, Mr. Lincoln was inaugurated President of the United +States, and several of the slaveholding states rebelled against the +authority of the National Government, passed ordinances of secession, +and with other states joined to them attempted to gain possession of the +national capital, thereby bringing on the great war of 1861, which +lasted four years, and ended in the preservation of the Union and the +re-establishment of the national authority over every state and +territory. + +In the effort to reclaim the recalcitrant states and restore peace to +the country, every expedient was used, and when, by proclamation of +President Lincoln, Congress assembled in extra session on the Fourth of +July, 1861, Mr. Trumbull of Illinois introduced a bill in the Senate to +emancipate all the slaves in the rebel states. + +At that time one-eighth of the whole population of the United States +were colored slaves, located in the southern portion. They had been held +in slavery two hundred and fifty years, having originally, and as +required thereafter, been brought to this country in slave ships +principally from the coast of Africa and the brisk and remunerative +traffic still continued. The extra session closed on August 6, 1861, +having lasted but little more than a month. In the meantime Major +General John C. Fremont having been placed in command of the Department +of the West, with headquarters at St. Louis, on the 25th of July, 1861, +contemplating the restoration of order in Missouri, and the reclaiming +of the control of the Mississippi River, proclaimed martial law, +declared the property of all those who should take up arms against the +United States confiscated to the public use, and their slaves, if they +had any, were declared free men. In other words, he proclaimed freedom +to the slaves of rebels, but, fearing that this would alarm Unionists in +the South, Mr. Lincoln desired General Fremont, as of his own motion, so +to modify his proclamation as to make this freedom apply only to such +slaves as were engaged in the rebel service. + +General Fremont had taken this step without consultation or notice. The +President wished him to conform to a confiscation act passed by +Congress, but Fremont wished the President to order the change desired, +as, if he should do it of his own motion, it would imply that he thought +himself wrong, stating the difficulties under which he labored, with the +communication with the government so difficult and the development of +perplexing events so rapid in the department under his command. This the +President did in a despatch under date of September 11, 1861, in these +words:— + + “It is therefore ordered, that the said clause of said proclamation be + so modified, held and construed, as to conform to, and not to + transcend the provisions on the same subject contained in the Act of + Congress entitled ‘An Act to Confiscate Property’ ... approved August + 6, 1861, and that such act be published at length with this order.” + +Before this order had been received, or on the day following its date, +General Fremont, though acquainted with the President’s wishes, +manumitted two slaves of Thomas L. Snead of St. Louis, in accordance +with the terms of his proclamation. + +Lincoln believed that the time had not come for the liberating the +slaves of rebels by proclamation, if he had, the Act of Congress would +not have stood in the way. The Act was the embodiment of his own policy +at that time. He had undertaken to preserve the Union and the rights of +all the states. A record was to be kept of the slaves of loyal masters, +and for their repayment for them Congress would provide. Slavery could +only be interfered with as a military necessity, an essential means of +saving the Union. He was assailed on the one side for being too slow, +and on the other for being too precipitate. + +In March, 1862, the following resolution recommended by President +Lincoln passed both houses of Congress, only a few members of the border +states voting for it:— + + “Resolved, That the United States ought to coöperate with any state + which may gradually adopt abolishment of slavery, giving to such state + pecuniary aid, to be used by such state in its discretion, to + compensate for inconveniences, public and private, produced by such + change of system.” + +Before the close of the session the President invited the senators and +representatives of the slaveholding states not in rebellion, to a +conference at the White House, at which he admonished them that if they +had all voted for the resolution the war would then have been +substantially ended. + +“If the war,” said he, “continues long, as it must if the object be not +sooner attained (i. e. the restoration of the Union without disturbance +of the institution of slavery) the institution in your states will be +extinguished by mere friction and abrasion—by the mere incidents of the +war. It will be gone, and you will have nothing in lieu of it. Much of +its value is gone already. How much better for you and for your people +to take the step which at once shortens the war, and secures substantial +compensation for that which is sure to be wholly lost in any other +event.... I do not speak of emancipation at once, but of a decision at +once, to emancipate gradually. Room in South America for colonization +can be obtained cheaply, and in abundance, and when numbers shall be +large enough to be company and encouragement for one another, the freed +people will not be so reluctant to go.” + +The time for the voluntary abolishment of the slave system was at any +date previous to 1900. + +In this session slavery was abolished in the District of Columbia, +completing the work begun in 1849, and recognizing the two principles of +colonization and compensation. This session also passed the confiscation +act by which the traitor to the general government forfeited his slaves, +as well as any other property, and Congress decided in advance, that the +slaves thus confiscated and held by the government should be declared +free. + +Then the public at the north, these measures having been enacted, +demanded a sweeping proclamation of emancipation. The antislavery +element clamored for swifter and more radical recognition, aroused and +sustained by the eloquence of the spoken and written word. + +These were the clarion notes of Whittier’s “Voices of Freedom”:— + + “If we have whispered truth + Whisper no longer: + Speak as the tempest does, + Sterner and stronger. + + Still be the tones of truth + Louder and firmer: + Startling the haughty South + With the deep murmur.” + +To which the President made reply:— + +“What I do about slavery and the colored race, I do because I believe it +helps to save this Union, and what I forbear, I forbear because I do not +believe it could help to save the Union.... I intend no modification of +my oft-expressed personal wish that all men everywhere could be free.” + +He understood that his oath of office stood in the way of the present +accomplishment of that wish, but that for the preservation of the +Constitution and the Union measures otherwise unconstitutional might +become lawful. That to preserve slavery he could not permit the wreck of +government, country and constitution all together. He objected to +General Fremont’s order of emancipation because he did not then consider +it a necessity. He objected to the arming of the blacks, as suggested by +the Secretary of War, Simon Cameron, for the same reason; also to an +attempt by General David A. Hunter for a military emancipation, +believing as he did in compensated emancipation. But the border states, +toward whom he had fulfilled his whole duty, turned a deaf ear to his +expostulations, and by this attitude relieved him of further +responsibility toward them. + + + COLONIZATION. + +Congress placed at the President’s disposal a sum of money to be used +for experiments with the colonization of the blacks, his choice of +location being the Spanish American republics of Central and South +America. In August, 1862, he invited a representative company of negroes +to visit the White House and address him on the subject; the President +asserting his conviction that both the whites and negroes would suffer +by living in association with each other. He offered them the benefit of +the fund intrusted to him for the purposes of colonization. But the +Spanish American republics protested against black colonies in their +midst. Liberia and Hayti only would receive them, and the blacks were +not disposed to emigrate to those countries, and so that project faded +as all such projects have failed in relation to sending the colored +population out of the country. The President’s plan was one of +benevolent solicitude for a race which he hoped to make self-reliant and +independent. + +And it came to pass, that in the midsummer of 1862, President Lincoln +called a meeting of his Cabinet and laid before them a draft of a +proclamation of emancipation, which involved the freedom of all human +beings held in slavery in the United States, amounting to four millions +then living, and affecting untold millions then unborn, and +revolutionizing the social status of more than a third part of the +nation, but the Secretary of State, William H. Seward, while approving +of the proclamation, opposed its issue at that time, immediately after +so many reverses, and advised its postponement until it should have some +military success to support it, that it should not have the appearance +of an appeal for help. So the proclamation waited until the invasion of +Maryland brought on the battle of Antietam resulting in the victory won +by McClellan, when Mr. Lincoln brought forward his second draft of the +instrument,—even then a preliminary proclamation,—which was issued on +the 22d of September, 1862, the battle having been fought on the 17th; +Mr. Lincoln being reported as saying that he made a resolve that when +McClellan should drive Lee over the river he would send the proclamation +after him. + +This proclamation declared free the slaves of those states, and those +sections of states, which should be in rebellion on the 1st of January, +1863, thus affording an opportunity for all rebel states which wished to +preserve their ownership of slaves, to do so by returning to their +allegiance to the Federal Government. + +September 24, 1862, the President issued a proclamation suspending the +writ of _habeas corpus_, as the ordinary processes of law were not +sufficient to restrain disloyal persons from hindering the execution of +a draft of militia, which had been ordered, and from giving aid and +comfort to the insurrection. This suspension lasted for two months, or +until the 22d of November, 1862, and persons held in military custody +were released on parole. + +On the 1st of January, 1863, the final proclamation of emancipation was +issued. It was as follows:— + + + PROCLAMATION OF EMANCIPATION. + + Whereas, on the twenty-second of September, in the year of our Lord + one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, a proclamation was issued by + the President of the United States, containing, among other things, + the following, to wit: + + “That on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one + thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as slaves + within any state, or designated part of a state, the people whereof + shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be then, + thenceforward and forever free, and the executive government of the + United States, including the military and naval authority thereof, + will recognize and maintain the freedom of such persons, and will do + no act or acts to repress such persons, or any of them, in any efforts + they may make for their actual freedom. That the Executive will, on + the first day of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the + states and parts of states, if any, in which the people thereof + respectively shall then be in rebellion against the United States; and + the fact that any state or the people thereof shall on that day be in + good faith represented in the Congress of the United States by members + chosen thereto at elections wherein a majority of the qualified voters + of such state shall have participated, shall, in the absence of strong + countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evidence that such + state, and the people thereof, are not then in rebellion against the + United States.” + + Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, President of the United States, by + virtue of the power in me vested as Commander-in-Chief of the Army and + Navy of the United States in time of actual armed rebellion against + the authority and government of the United States, and as a fit and + necessary war measure for suppressing said rebellion, do, on this + first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight + hundred and sixty-three, and in accordance with my purpose so to do, + publicly proclaimed for the full period of one hundred days from the + day first above mentioned, order and designate, as the states and + parts of states wherein the people thereof respectively are this day + in rebellion against the United States, the following, to wit: + + Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana (except the parishes of St. Bernard, + Plaquemine, Jefferson, St. John, St. Charles, St. James, Ascension, + Assumption, Terre Bonne, Lafourche, St. Marie, St. Martin and Orleans, + including the city of New Orleans), Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, + Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (except the + forty-eight counties designated as West Virginia, and also the + counties of Berkely, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, + Princess Anne, and Norfolk, including the cities of Norfolk and + Portsmouth, and which excepted parts are for the present left + precisely as if this proclamation were not issued). + + And, by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid, I do order + and declare that all persons held as slaves within said designated + states and parts of states, are, and henceforward shall be free, and + that the Executive Government of the United States, including the + military and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain + the freedom of said persons. + + And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be free, to abstain + from all violence, unless in necessary self-defence, and I recommend + to them that in all cases, when allowed, they labor faithfully for + reasonable wages. + + And I further declare and make known that such persons of suitable + condition will be received into the armed service of the United States + to garrison forts, positions, stations and other places, and to man + vessels of all sorts in said service. And upon this act, sincerely + believed to be an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon + military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of mankind, and + the gracious favor of Almighty God. + + In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my name, and caused the seal + of the United States to be affixed. + + Done at the City of Washington, this first day of January, in the year + of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three and of the + + [L. S.] Independence of the United States the + eighty-seventh, + Abraham Lincoln. + + By the President. + William H. Seward, _Secretary of State_. + +In the cabinet meeting to which the preliminary proclamation was +submitted, by request of Mr. Seward the words “and maintain” were +inserted after “recognize” in the third paragraph of that document in +the second paragraph of the final proclamation, the President in his +wisdom, having omitted the words, as it was not his way to promise more +than he was sure he could perform, and he was not prepared to say that +he thought he was able to maintain this. Thus the story is told on the +best authority. + +Another paragraph is said to have been written by the Secretary of the +Treasury, Salmon P. Chase, who had prepared a proclamation from which +the President only selected the sentence beginning “And upon this Act,” +and ending with “Almighty God,” with the exception of the word +“sincerely” and the phrase “upon military necessity” which are the +President’s own. It is said that Mr. Lincoln voluntarily revealed the +authorship of the words attributed to Seward and Chase. + + + SLAVES STILL HELD IN LOYAL STATES. + +By this proclamation of emancipation the loyal slave states were allowed +to retain the institution of slavery, which was secured to them by the +Constitution, and in order to reach them certain articles of amendment +to the Constitution of the United States must be acted upon by the +legislatures of the several states, three-fourths of the number of which +would make the articles valid. No servile insurrection or tendency to +violence marked the execution of the provisions of the proclamation +relative to the arming of the negroes. + +At the session of Congress beginning in December, 1863, the Fugitive +Slave Law was repealed. + +At the national Republican convention which met at Baltimore, June 8, +1864, and nominated Lincoln for re-election, one of the resolutions +advocated a constitutional amendment abolishing slavery. Another +declared that the government owed protection to all its soldiers, +without distinction of color, and at the session of congress which +opened the following December, an amendment to the Constitution was +passed abolishing slavery in all the states. It needed now to be adopted +by the vote of the states, and the necessity was pressing, for in order +to place in their hands a weapon of self-defence against re-enslavement +the negroes must be given the right to vote. + + + THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES. FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT. + + Article XIV. Section 1. All persons born or naturalized in the United + States, and subject to the jurisdiction thereof are citizens of the + United States and of the state wherein they reside. No state shall + make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges or + immunities of citizens of the United States; nor shall any state + deprive any person of life, liberty, or property, without due process + of law, nor deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal + protection of the laws. + + Section 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among the several + states according to their respective numbers, counting the whole + number of persons in each state, excluding Indians not taxed. But when + the right to vote at any election for the choice of electors for + president and vice-president of the United States, representatives in + Congress, the executive and judicial officers of a state, or the + members of the legislature thereof, is denied to any of the male + inhabitants of such state, being twenty-one years of age, and citizens + of the United States, or in any way abridged, except for participation + in rebellion or other crime, the basis of representation therein shall + be reduced in the proportion which the number of such male citizens + shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one years of + age in such state. + + Section 3. No person shall be a senator, or representative in + congress, or elector of president, or vice-president, or hold any + office, civil or military, under the United States, or under any + state, who, having previously taken an oath, as a member of congress, + or as an officer of the United States, or as a member of any state + legislature, or as an executive or judicial officer of any state, to + support the constitution of the United States, shall have engaged in + insurrection or rebellion against the same, or given aid or comfort to + the enemies thereof. But congress may, by a vote of two-thirds of each + house, remove such disability. + + Section 4. The validity of the public debt of the United States, + authorized by law, including debts incurred for payment of pensions + and bounties for services in suppressing insurrection or rebellion, + shall not be questioned. + + But neither the United States, nor any state, shall assume or pay any + debt or obligation incurred in aid of insurrection or rebellion + against the United States, or any claim for the loss or emancipation + of any slave; but all such debts, obligations and claims shall be held + illegal and void. + + Section 5. The congress shall have power to enforce, by appropriate + legislation, the provisions of this article. + +The Fourteenth Amendment was proposed to the legislatures of the several +states by the thirty-ninth congress on June 16, 1866, and after delay +caused by withdrawals of ratifications and of rejections of +ratifications by many of the states, on July 28, 1868, it was announced +by the Secretary of State that it had become valid to all intents and +purposes, as a part of the Constitution of the United States. + + + THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES. FIFTEENTH AMENDMENT. + + Article XV. Sect. 1. The right of citizens of the United States to + vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United States, or by any + state, on account of race, color, or previous condition of servitude. + + Section 2. The congress shall have power to enforce this article by + appropriate legislation. + +The fifteenth amendment was proposed to the legislatures of the several +states by the fortieth Congress on February 27, 1869, and was declared, +in a proclamation of the Secretary of State, dated March 30, 1870, to +have been ratified by the constitutional number of states, and to have +“become valid to all intents and purposes as part of the Constitution of +the United States.” + + + AFTER EMANCIPATION. + +The history of the war shows that one hundred and seventy-eight thousand +nine hundred and seventy-five negroes, took part either in the army or +the navy of the United States, and the losses these troops sustained +from sickness, wounds, killed in battle and other casualties incident to +war, were sixty-eight thousand one hundred and seventy-eight. + +The war was over in the spring of 1865. Then came the reconstruction +period, and in 1876, the Democratic party, most influential in the +Southern States, unqualifiedly accepted in its national platform all the +results of the war, including the war amendments to the Constitution. + +Yet, while the race progressed with marvellous rapidity through +educational facilities eagerly sought for, and secured to them from +private and public sources, the condition of the freed slaves and their +descendants has not improved so materially as was anticipated. + +President Lincoln’s solicitude has not been proven false or exaggerated, +“both the whites and negroes” _have_ suffered “by living in association +with each other.” + +The tendency is to divide the whites from the blacks, the whites +avoiding those sections where the races are placed on an equality in +labor. The large plantations are being let out to colored tenants while +the landlord seeks a more congenial environment in the cities, the poor +whites seeking occupation in the manufacturing industries which have +arisen and are being developed. + +It is asserted that the number of counties in the South in which the +negroes outnumber the whites, counties containing the best cotton, +tobacco, rice and sugar lands, has risen from 237 in 1860, to 279 in +1900, and that within these counties there are, on the average, 130 +negroes to every 100 whites, and that in 1860, there were 71 counties in +which the negroes were more than twice as numerous as the whites, which +number in 1900, had increased to 108, and 92 per cent of the colored +race is found in the states which were in rebellion in 1861. + +Notwithstanding the investment with citizenship which was supposed to +remove from the slave the disqualification of having no standing in +court, from the time of emancipation to the present, negro lynchings in +the southern and western portions of the United States have shocked the +civilized world by their frequency and cruelty; victims of both sexes +having been burnt at the stake without any pretense of a form of trial, +while local juries were unwilling to indict or condemn those who thus +transgressed constitutional law. + +The Fourteenth Amendment has been virtually annulled, and the white vote +is apportioned on a fictitious representation, and based upon a black +majority. + +Measures, more or less disguised as to their purpose, have been passed +by several southern states, tending to disfranchise the negroes, showing +an inclination to gradually return to former conditions, until they have +once more assumed their original bold attitude, and in the Fifty-eighth +Congress, which assembled December 7, 1903, notice was given that the +United States Senator from Tennessee would introduce a bill for the +repeal of the Fifteenth Amendment, “with a view to a permanent solution +of the vexing negro question, by eliminating the enfranchised negro as a +political factor.” It was said that the Senator would be supported by +every Southern member in Congress, and not a few members of other +sections of the Union. An ex-governor of Virginia was quoted as saying +in New York, that there is only one solution, and that is that the +Nation must recede from its position on negro suffrage, and plans to +that effect have been announced in several southern states. + + + AN APPEAL TO THE COUNTRY. + +On their own behalf, in a mass meeting held in Boston, November 7, 1903, +forty years after Emancipation, and three years after the outside limit +of time, 1900, set in the resolution recommending the co-operation of +the Federal Government in the gradual abolishment of slavery, with +compensation, passed in March, 1862, the following appeal, involving the +rights of 10,000,000 colored people of the United States, was addressed +to the country by the Boston Negro Suffrage League:— + + “We appeal to the conscience of the country to rally to our help, to + restore to us rights bought by us with a great price, the price of + nearly three centuries of faithful service and of blood shed by us in + four wars. We appeal to the American people in their strength, to have + regard for us in our weakness, and to grant us fair play and equal + opportunities with others, to make the most and the best of ourselves + in their midst. We call upon a Christian nation to treat us as fellow + Christians, as human beings. We implore a boastfully free republic to + save us from re-enslavement, to mete out to us even-handed justice, + and to throw over us everywhere the impartial protection of her laws + and Constitution.” + + + DEATH OF LINCOLN. + + “So he grew up, a destined work to do, + And lived to do it: four long-suffering years. + Ill-fate, ill-feeling, ill-report, lived through, + And then he heard the hisses changed to cheers, + + The taunts to tribute, the abuse to praise, + And took both with the same unwavering mood: + Till, as he came on light, from darkling days, + And seemed to touch the goal from where he stood, + + A felon hand, between the goal and him, + Reached from behind his back, a trigger prest— + And those perplexed and patient eyes were dim, + Those gaunt, long-laboring limbs were laid to rest. + + · · · · · + + The Old World and the New, from sea to sea, + Utter one voice of sympathy and shame! + Sore heart, so stopped when it at last beat high, + Sad life, cut short just as its triumph came.” + + —_London Punch_, May 6, 1865. + +Re-elected President of the United States for another term of four +years, and having seen the termination of the war, Abraham Lincoln died +in Washington by the hand of an assassin. He was shot by J. Wilkes +Booth, a member of a family of actors, in a private box of Ford’s +Theatre, a few minutes past ten o’clock on the evening of April 14, +1865, and was carried across the street to a private house, 516 Tenth +Street, where he died at 7.22 the next morning without recovering +consciousness. Reverent and devout by nature, his utterances had often +impressed the people with a sense of his own firm reliance on the Divine +arm. “I have been driven many times to my knees,” he once remarked, “by +the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere else to go. My own wisdom +and that of all about me seemed insufficient for that day.” So when the +bewildering news of his death burst upon the world, that was the +characteristic most forcibly brought to mind, and “God lives” was the +chosen message flashed over the wires from a high state official to +quell the tumult of indignation which thrilled every corner of the great +Republic. At his obsequies the funeral procession was so long that the +head of it had begun to disperse at the Capitol, before the rear had +passed the Treasury Department on its way from the Executive Mansion. + +At the cemetery in Springfield, Illinois, where he was buried May 4, +1865, the procession being under the immediate charge of Major General +Joseph Hooker, Bishop Simpson quoted his words spoken in relation to the +slave power, in 1859, beginning “Broken by it, I, too, may be, bow to it +I never will.” + + + PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS. + +On the evening of April 16th, just before sunset, when the news of the +assassination came to our camp, during an exhausting march from +Appomattox Court House after Lee’s surrender, to guard the railroad at +Nottaway C. H., a courier rode up with a despatch for General Charles S. +Wainwright of whose staff I was a member, announcing the event in a few +words. + +The effect upon us was tremendous, we could not believe that it was +true, and I thought at the time that it must lead to some uprising or +revolution. It was a shock to both soldiers and citizens that they could +hardly realize. But his work was done, his life was complete, and he was +allowed to die in all the glory and dignity of an unselfish triumph. + +In a building corner of Broadway and 10th Street, New York, between what +was then Stewart’s great dry goods establishment and Grace Church, I had +from 1874 to 1879, a little den. It looked, like all my rooms, very +cozy, with a medley of boyish, college, and army trophies hanging about, +and endless souvenirs of travel and previous years experience on the +walls, and in graceful confusion. Many of my old half discarded things +had fallen into place, and I wrote under the light of a Russian double +candlestick with a soft green shade, while my gas was being put in +order. My old army toggery I had arranged in a trophy—sword, belt, sash, +cap, pistol, spurs, blouse of Second Lieutenant of Artillery (Fifth +Massachusetts Battery, Light Artillery) with the holes through the right +sleeve and the blood on the lining, corps and other military badges, +etc., and as a background the American flag, in silk, given me by some +dear friends with whom I often stayed at Weston, Mass., and which I +carried with me in the army, and had suspended in my winter quarters on +the Rappahannock River, Va., 1863-’4. As I now look at them I can see on +my sword knot the very same crape which was twisted round it by my +servant “Joe,” when all the army went into mourning for the death of +Abraham Lincoln. It is to me a precious relic, and one such as I imagine +there are few preserved. + +In April, 1879, I wrote what follows in a letter to the Boston +_Transcript_:— + +“The writer paid a visit yesterday to that remarkable picture now on +exhibition at Doll and Richards’, 2 Park Street, (Boston) by Albion H. +Bicknell, representing President Lincoln at the dedication of the +cemetery at Gettysburg. Oh, that word! What a story does it tell! It was +the central turning point of the war, just as Bull Run was the +beginning, and Appomattox the end. + +As you look at that wonderful painting, and gaze at the different men +there—men who were towers of strength for the Union,—you find, as you +count them off one by one, that more than two-thirds of those who were +there that bright autumn afternoon, November 19, 1863, have ere this +passed on,—Seward, Andrew, Everett, Meade, Chase, Wilson, Stanton, +Morton, Greeley, Sumner, Welles, Johnson, Hamlin, Fessenden,—are with us +no more. + +The landscape, with the trees and the sky and the flavor of autumn in +the air, is admirable. The grouping is simple, natural and effective, +and the likenesses of the different persons are remarkable. There they +are, honest and earnest American citizens, in the prosaic dress of the +day,—real, not ideal,—some few of them in uniform, but a majority in the +habiliments of civil life. You can almost catch the serious words of +President Lincoln, just as he delivered them in that terse speech which +will go down to posterity as his masterpiece of oratory.” + + + STATUE AT SPRINGFIELD, ILL.— + + +GRANT’S LONGEST SPEECH. + +Early in the year 1874, a bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln was placed +over his grave at Springfield, Illinois. It was unveiled with +appropriate ceremonies and in the presence of over 25,000 people. Prayer +was offered by Bishop Wayman of the (colored) Methodist Church, and an +oration was delivered by Senator Oglesby of Illinois. President Ulysses +S. Grant, Vice President Henry Wilson, ex-Vice President Schuyler Colfax +and General William T. Sherman were present, and all made brief +addresses, that of General Grant said to be the longest speech he ever +delivered. It was as follows:— + + “Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: On an occasion like the present, + it is a duty on my part to bear testimony to the great and good + qualities of the patriotic man whose earthly remains now rest beneath + the dedicated monument. It was not my fortune to make the personal + acquaintance of Mr. Lincoln till the beginning of the last year of the + great struggle for national existence. During those years of trouble + and despondency, amongst the many patriotic men of the country, + Abraham Lincoln never for a moment doubted that the final result would + be in favor of peace, union, and freedom to every race in this broad + land. His faith in an all-wise Providence directing our arms to this + final result, was the faith of the Christian that his Redeemer liveth. + Amid obloquy, personal abuse and hate undisguised, which were given + vent to without restraint through the press, upon the stump, and in + private circles, he remained the same staunch, unyielding servant of + the people, never exhibiting revengeful feelings towards his + traducers, he, rather, pitied them, and hoped for their own sakes, and + the good name of their posterity, they might desist. It did not occur + to him for a single moment that the man Lincoln was being assailed, + but that a treasonable spirit, one waiting to destroy the fairest + government the sun ever shone upon, was giving vent to itself on him, + as the chief executive of the nation, only because he was such + executive. As a lawyer in your midst, he would have avoided all that + slander, for his life was a pure and simple one, and no doubt he would + have been a much happier man; but who can tell what might have been + the fate of the nation but for the pure, unselfish, and wise + administration of Lincoln? + + From March, 1864, to the day when the hand of an assassin opened the + grave for Mr. Lincoln when President of the United States, my personal + relations with him were as close as the nature of our respective + duties would permit. To know him personally was to love and respect + him for his great qualities of head and heart, and for his patience + and patriotism. + + With all his disappointments from failures on the part of those to + whom he intrusted command, and treachery on the part of those who had + gained his confidence but to betray it, I never heard him utter a + complaint, nor cast censure for bad conduct or bad faith. It was his + nature to find excuses for his adversaries. In his death the nation + lost its greatest head. In his death the South lost its most just + friend.” + +Lincoln said to Grant, when as Lieutenant General he placed him in +charge of all the Armies:— + + “The particulars of your plans I neither know, nor seek to know. You + are vigilant and self-reliant; and, pleased with this, I wish not to + obtrude any restraints nor constraints upon you.” + + * * * * * + +Boston is fortunate in having in Park Square the emancipation group by +Thomas Ball, of Lincoln breaking the fetters of a negro slave, the gift +of Hon. Moses Kimball to the city. + +In Chicago, October 1, 1893, during the World’s Columbian Exposition, I +went to see the statue of Abraham Lincoln by Saint Gaudens in Lincoln +Park. It is splendid in every way, one of the finest certainly in the +country and perhaps in the world, and in 1903, a bronze statue of +Lincoln, cast in heroic mould with uplifted arm, was erected on a hill +in a town in Illinois from which point it may be seen for twenty miles +in every direction. + +The theatre building where he was shot was never afterwards used for +entertainments, but for many years contained a collection of curios from +the battle fields, which was subsequently removed to the National +Museum, and it has since been attached to the War Department as an +office building for a bureau. + +August 5, 1901, I visited the house where he died, now containing the +Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, consisting of over 3000 articles +pertaining to the martyred President. + + + + + CHAPTER THIRD. + BRUSSELS. THANKSGIVING IN BERLIN. WILNA. + + “This is the place. Stand still, my steed, + Let me review the scene, + And summon from the shadowy Past + The forms that once have been.” + —_Henry W. Longfellow._ + “_A Gleam of Sunshine_,” edition of 1864. + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + + Berlin, Nov. 29, 1866, + Or, in other words, Thanksgiving Day. + +I happen to be aware of this fact, Mama, because yesterday, strolling +about the Berlin gallery we met first Mr. Urbino (Dealer in choice +foreign books in Boston) and afterwards Mr. Kellogg, (My brother +Willie’s travelling friend) the latter of whom told us that all the +Americans were to have a big Thanksgiving dinner at some hotel here, and +so we also put our names down, and mean to do “the eminent American.” + +Almost twelve and not breakfasted as yet! How lazy one does get, and we +have tickets to see the Schloss at twelve, precisely. + +Well then, to begin,—We really left Paris on Saturday, arriving at +Brussels in time to take a cup of tea, a chicken cold, and retire, and +you have no idea how nice it is again to be on the move! + +[Illustration: + + WILNA. +] + +Sunday, a drizzly day, we drove all the way out to Waterloo amidst the +hoots of the “rag, tag and bobtail” of the villages taking us for +British tourists. We scanned the scene of conflict with military gaze, +bought a cane and a lunch, chaffed the natives, and returned in time to +see Déjazet the celebrated old actress perform in a charming little +piece. Monday we strolled about the town, looked at a few pictures, +flattened our noses on the shop windows, very pretty they are, too, that +is, the things within, and would find ourselves suddenly bringing up at +some grand old cathedral, or a fascinating marketplace, with statues to +old “swells” whose heads had been discontinued there; gilt-edged houses +in which the ancient guilds and clubs held forth, crooked streets, high +hills, etc. etc. + +That evening after dinner we billeted ourselves for Berlin viâ Cologne, +and I soon had an excellent opportunity of airing my execrable German, +and thanking myself for the little I possess. + +Well, here we are in Berlin, the city of music and philosophy, and here +is Charlie,—by the way, the best travelling companion imaginable,—ready +to descend for breakfast. + +P. M. I am now in my evening harness with just time to finish this +before going to dine. Yesterday we went to the Gallery, which I liked +exceedingly, although there are only a few real masterpieces, many of +which I knew well from your book “The Berlin Gallery,” at home. The +Murillo is perhaps the finest. The building itself is charmingly +arranged, all the different schools in order, and the temperature just +right, which you won’t find in the Italian galleries. We then sauntered +along to Unter den Linden, and caused a great sensation. Whether our +reefing jackets and little hats and blue scarfs, or our truly distingué +and _chic_,—tell Willie the word is still a favorite in +Paris,—appearance were the cause, I know not. I can here say that the +Berliners are not exactly “swells,” though big on metaphysics, and now +on diplomacy and war; certain it is, however, that many were the smiles +bestowed upon us as we gaily marched along. + +In the evening we saw a very good ballet at the Victoria Theatre. Today +we have not accomplished much except the King’s old palace, and got fur +lined boots, very necessary for travelling, and filled our pockets with +roubles. Tomorrow we go to see the paintings in company with Mr. Thies +and probably in the evening start for Königsberg, where I will get you +an amber bracelet. The weather is quite mild now, but I think after +leaving Wilna it will be fresh enough. It is rather an odd city, this +Berlin, with a feeble little stream called the Spree, just under our +window. Charlie sends love to all. Good night, for I go to the feast of +Bacchus,—roast turkey and plumb pudding. + + N. A. + + * * * * * + +Professor Thies, whom I met in Berlin, had been curator of the Gray +Collection of Engravings at Harvard College, and showed to a party of us +in the second term of my Junior year the famous prints, collected by +Francis Colley Gray principally abroad, which he bequeathed to the +College, and which were then in one of the alcoves of Gore Hall, or the +Library, up stairs. Our party consisted of Professor Longfellow and his +son Charlie, George B. Shattuck and his sister, my sister and myself. It +was a great treat and gave me my first real knowledge of art. We +examined all the engravings, taking several weeks, and the remarks of +Professor Thies were full of knowledge and charm. It was an education +not only in the art of different kinds of engraving, but of painting and +sculpture, as many of them were copies of the masterpieces of these two +branches of art. The Collection was transferred to the Boston Museum of +Fine Arts when it was opened, and now forms a part of the Fogg Museum at +Harvard. + + + BERLIN IN 1866. + +In Berlin, the palaces, houses and stores on the principal +thoroughfares, stand before you as dull and unsentimental looking as the +Prussian sentinels. The people whom you meet, while appearing as +respectable and worthy as church deacons, have no elegance nor grace +about them, they come and go on every side as gravely and soberly as is +permitted to human beings, with nothing disorderly or gay in their +manner. They impress you all as being in what is called “comfortable +circumstances,” wearing a look of contented commonplaceness, and with +the most unbounded respect for things as they are in Prussia, from the +Kaiser down, and a corresponding ignorance of and pity for the situation +in other less favored countries. There is an egotistical patriotism in +this which is delicious, and which must have its merits, but it +certainly makes its supporters more objects of curiosity than of +interest to any outsiders, with whom they may come in contact. But, on +the other hand, there is a compactness in the forward march of the North +Germans as a nation, which is irresistible, and which is certain to +accomplish great results, and for it the philosophical student of +history cannot but feel an admiration which he does not accord to the +more attractive and mercurial inhabitants of other countries. He +respects intensely the Prussians, but he does not care to live among +them. + +The next morning after our arrival in Berlin we sauntered forth to see +all there was in the city, and to provide ourselves with a complete +outfit of furs: caps, coats and boots. The weather was cold and we would +need these protections for the rest of our journey, and we knew there +was no better market in Europe for obtaining them of good quality and at +reasonable prices than in the city of Frederick the Great. + + + THANKSGIVING DINNER. + + Wilna, Dec. 3, 1866. + + My dear Mamma: + +I begin you a letter here as we have some time before the train starts +for St. Petersburg which I will finish there, and will take up my story +at Berlin, where I left myself just going to dinner. + +The dinner was quite successful and amusing: about one hundred Americans +of all styles collected together, one pretty girl, Miss R. of +Springfield, my classmate Green (The distinguished oculist Dr. J. Orne +Green.), lots of old professional buffers, and a good deal of ruff skuff +in long coats and red scarfs, and several military men. Charlie and I +got an old Russian gentleman between us and talked philosophy and _la +vie Russe_. + +The minister, Mr. Wright, presided, and went through very gracefully the +rather difficult performance of drinking the health of the President! + +The Opera House at Berlin is quite stunning, and they have the best +female singer in the world, Lucca. We did not have the good fortune to +hear her. Berlin is ahead of all the world in music. In other respects I +think it rather a dull city, but then, we have not as yet shaken off the +glitter of Paris from our garments. + +[Illustration: + + STATUE OF KANT. KÖNIGSBURG, 1866. +] + +The next day we went to Königsberg on the Baltic, where we passed +twenty-four hours, and visited the Schloss where the Teutonic Knights in +ye ancient time held their revels, and where later the King and Queen of +Prussia lived when Napoleon captured Berlin and made the peace of +Tilsit. There is an old modern church in which the numberless columns +almost prevent your seeing across, and a very old cathedral, with lots +of interesting monuments. + +Yesterday we came here, a flourishing Polish town before Russia “gobbled +it up,” and go through the experience of having our trunks and passports +examined every few hours, although, when they find we are Americans, +they are very civil. They can’t quite make us out, and look upon us as +curiosities, especially stopping at Wilna. America seems to them so far +off. The Russian surveillance is very strict in the Polish cities, more +so than in Russia proper, and it was here that lots of Poles were hung +only a few years ago. Napoleon slept in the palace here the night after +Alexander left it. + +It is so awfully funny, this first taste of Russia, little sleighs just +holding one man all covered with furs, and a big hoop over the horse +like the pictures in our geography,—narrow streets with crowds of Jews, +great bulb like steeples to the churches, and everything different. They +keep the houses so warm that you almost suffer. Well, I must close for +tonight. + + N. A. + + + MY FAIRY SLEIGH. + +The spring previous to this Russian journey I received the following +note from Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, on receiving a photograph of myself +in my fancy sleigh:— + + “Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis presents her regards to Mr. Appleton, and + very much thanks him for the interesting photograph which she had + already admired. She hopes he will have more snow the next winter to + enjoy his fairy like equipage, and wishes him health and happiness as + a reward for his wounds in the service of his country.” + + Mt. Vernon Street, + 14th March, 1866. + +My pretty sleigh had the appearance of a Russian one as I had arranged +what looked like a “duga” over the saddle of the horse, with a waving +plume. I once drove down State street in it with my colored groom, the +same old “Joe” who was with me in the army, sitting behind in the +rumble, and from its striking appearance, with the white fox robes, made +a mild sensation. + + + STOP OVER AT WILNA. + +We broke the journey from Berlin to St. Petersburg, which is long and +uninteresting, by stopping over twenty-four hours at Wilna, once the +capital of Lithuania, afterwards an important Polish and at present an +unimportant Russian town. We thought we ought not to jump into the +middle of Russia at once; we ought to look a little at the edges, and +study the ways and customs of the provincials, which we were sure would +be curious and worth seeing, so it was decided that we pass a day at +Wilna. + +[Illustration: + + SINGLE SLEIGH. +] + +There is probably no part of the civilized world where the annoyances +about passports and baggage are greater than in conquered Poland. +Everyone who enters the land is looked upon with suspicion, and the +difficulty is not by any means over when you get in, for there is the +same trouble to get out again, sometimes even worse. But few tourists +stop there, and so any well-dressed stranger seen is an object of +curiosity, and is most carefully watched by the police. Particularly is +this system of espionage strong in the small cities, and one’s life +there by it becomes a burden. + +It was late at night when we arrived at the depot. Our passports were +carefully scrutinized, our names recorded, the name of the hotel where +we intended to stop was taken down, and we were told that owing to the +lateness of the hour our trunks would not be examined that night, but +that we must come for the ceremony at ten o’clock the next morning. We +were also informed that we could not leave the city without again having +our passports examined and the proper _visa_ put on. + + + THE RUSSIAN BEGGAR. + +When we looked out of our hotel window the next morning the street in +front was filled with beggars of every description, who on seeing us at +the window began going through every imaginable kind of pantomime which +might appeal to the pity or the pride of those to whom they were +addressed. Perhaps of all the types of beggars in the world, the Polish +Jew is the most striking. His long greasy hair, his longer and greasier +coat, his trowsers tucked in his boots and his peculiar cap, are +distinguishing traits. And then how he can pile on the agony in facial +expression and gesture! No imagined grief of Dante’s Inferno can excel +what the Polish Jew would make you believe are his sufferings as he +stands thus piteously addressing you. For a handful of copper coins +flung among the crowd, they fought hard and long. + + + A TOUR OF THE TOWN. + +After, with some difficulty, getting possession of our trunks, and +showing that they contained no infernal machines, nor suspicious looking +insurrectionary pamphlets, we jumped into a sleigh, as the ground here +was well covered with snow, and wrapping ourselves up in our _shubes_ +started off on a tour of inspection through the town. + +There is something very fascinating in the first suspicion of the Orient +as seen in the outlying frontier towns of the Sclavonic race. The bright +colored churches with their bulbous steeples albeit dull and in +miniature, give a suggestive hint of what the glories of Moscow and +Constantinople will be. The queer costumes of the people, neither +Asiatic or European, and their manners in which the patriarchal +reverence for authority of the East is tinged with the curiosity and +thirst for knowledge of the West, make you regard them as a sort of +stepping stone or connecting link between Eastern and Western customs +and civilization. And then it is all so different from life in the other +European capitals, where each one is more or less a stilted copy of the +others. Here you have the mixture of the European and Asiatic elements +in such a peculiar way, that something astonishing strikes you +continually, and the social relations are so vague that real adventures +are likely to befall you in all the classes of society. + +The rough wooden sleigh in which we were whisked through the place, with +its brightly painted _duga_ over the horse’s head, the light ornamented +harness, with the strange dress of the driver, made visions of winter +pleasures in St. Petersburg fill our imaginations, and we thought what a +sensation we would make could we only be transferred just as we were +into the Harlem Lane! + + + THE RUSSIAN HORSE, SLEIGH AND COACHMAN. + +Your sleigh follows you round by day and night, always within call, and +so, enveloped in the dark furs of Astrachan or Siberia, you sally forth +on your round of conquest. The horses are superb, very fast trotters, +with high knee action, and holding their heads gracefully; the favorite +colors are black or dappled gray. The ordinary sleigh, that of the +_grand seigneur_, such, indeed, as the Emperor almost always uses, as +well as those you pick up anywhere in the streets, are not unlike our +well-known Portland cutters. Between the regular seat and the dash-board +is a little narrow seat on which the driver perches, with one foot +inside, and the other in a sort of stirrup outside, from which he braces +himself to hold the horse. A fur robe, or rather a thick cloth robe +trimmed with a deep border of fur, comes over you and is fastened around +you, and hooked at the corners of the sleigh in such a way that you +cannot tumble out. The sleighs are very plain, generally of varnished +wood, not even painted. The coachman is a type quite different from what +you will see in any other country. The most stylish are stout, +impressive looking men of middle age, with a long beard like a French +_sapeur_. They wear a dark, thick garment, which in shape I can only +compare to a dressing-gown, fastened around the waist with a brilliant +sash, and then falling nearly to the feet in great plaits. + +The fashionable owners of these turnouts are seated behind their drivers +as comfortable as possible, and take as much interest in racing on the +road and passing those about them, as we do when handling the ribbons +ourselves. By far the most elegant turnout is the single sleigh with a +trotter in the shafts and a horse on each side, making three abreast, +galloping along. They are trained specially for this when young, and +they do it well; bending their heads down to the right or left, as it +may be, and rushing along madly. The Prefect of Police of St. Petersburg +had a stunning team of that kind. + +Besides all I have mentioned there are many handsome double-seated +sleighs, with a flunkey standing up behind on a board near the ground in +some gorgeous livery, and cocked hat with turkey feathers of different +colors, like a major general’s. + +I must not forget to mention the net that goes from the horse’s back to +the dash-board of the sleigh, to prevent the snow from being kicked in +your face, a most sensible idea, and one we could well copy in America. +These nets are of brilliant colors, red, blue, or green, to match the +livery and the sleigh, and the effect is fine as they float in the wind. +The winter of 1870-’1, after my return from Russia, I used the net to +keep the snow from being kicked in my face, a blue one, which I bought +in St. Petersburg. A young fellow who saw me passing and did not +understand what it was for, cried out:—“Look at that man, he’s afraid +the flies will bite his horse!”—Not a bad remark for mid-winter, and I +came to the conclusion that Russian ideas of sleighing were not +altogether appreciated in America. + + + AT WILNA. THE CHIEF OF POLICE. + +The most amusing scene of our stop over at Wilna, was at the office of +the Chief of Police. To arrange our passports for departing we went to +the office during the afternoon, but as it was _jour de fête_, as it +generally is, in honor of some saint, the bureau was closed and the head +official was absent. In consideration of the great regard Russia felt +for the United States, the second in command agreed to attend to our +case, as we were in a hurry to leave the city, with the understanding +that it must be submitted to his chief for approval. The interview was +characteristic and ludicrous. The official spoke a little bad German, +nothing else except Russian. We had both neglected our German studies +and only knew a few phrases, sufficient to demand the necessities of +life in travelling. The gaps were filled up with gestures, and the +interrogatory of name, age, residence, occupation, went on slowly and +unintelligibly enough until the hotel keeper, having heard of the +dilemma in which all parties found themselves, came to the rescue with +the little French he knew and assurances of the good character of the +persons on trial, affirming that he had conversed with us long at his +hotel and he was certain there was nothing suspicious about us. This +only confused things more, and the poor official hardly knew what to do. +He was unwilling to take so great a responsibility upon himself and +began to think he had got some important political offenders. It is +difficult to say how the interview would have ended; it began to look as +if he intended locking us up until he should have time to reflect, but +fortunately the Chief of Police at this moment came in. He was a +gentleman of education and delicacy of feeling, one of those polished +Russian officers so often met, and what was more to the point spoke both +English and French fluently. He sat down quietly at his table, and in a +dignified manner saying a few words in Russian to his now abashed +assistant, examined carefully the passports, and finding everything _en +regle_, asked us a few simple questions, which being satisfactorily +answered, he said:— + +“I must apologize, gentlemen, for the annoyance to which you have been +unavoidably subjected, but we poor officials have very strict orders in +Polish Russia, and mistakes will sometimes arise.” + +When it was time to leave we were consigned to the best attention of all +the conductors and railroad officials of the line, with orders to be +treated as became American princes. The train was well filled with +passengers, and we took our places in carriage 722, C, _première +classe_, St. Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad. + +[Illustration: + + NEVSKI PROSPECT ST. PETERSBURG. +] + + + + + CHAPTER FOURTH. + ST. PETERSBURG. TSAR ALEXANDER II. + + “I shall not be particular in stating + His journey, we’ve so many tours of late, + Suppose him then at Petersburgh; suppose + That pleasant capital of painted snows:— + + · · · · · + + Damsels and dances, revels, ready money, + Made ice seem paradise, and winter sunny.” + —_Lord Byron._ + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + +St. Petersburg, December 5, 1866. (Continuation of letter written at +Wilna.) Here we are at last, having arrived yesterday evening, and I +must say that our first impressions are in the midst of difficulties, +for on awakening this morning we found it actually thawing, and the +streets are all filled with slosh, but the funny little sleighs rush +about incessantly, and perfectly silently as there are no bells on the +horses. We have been occupied today going to the banker’s where I found +your letter, and to the American legation where we saw the minister, who +told us that my classmate, Jeremiah Curtin, had gone only yesterday to +Moscow for two or three weeks, and in looking up some kind of good +apartment. + +I think we shall stay here some time over Christmas, which I believe +comes later in the Russian calendar than with us, and devote some time +to learning Russian and continuing our French. In fact for the latter +there can be no better place than here. There are only about six or +seven hours of daylight now, and these we must give up to sight seeing, +which I mean to do thoroughly, and to skating and sleighing. In my next +I will give you a good account of Saint Petersburg and its sights. + +Till then adieu. + + Nathan. + + + TO MY SISTER. + + Saint Petersburg, December 14, 1866. + +... Well, isn’t it droll, here is your young brother established as a +gay _flâneur_ in St. P., who means to delve into all the gayeties of the +Russian life. + +Our Minister, General Cassius M. Clay, (Of Kentucky, then 56 years of +age.), presented Charlie and myself the other day to a most lovely +Russian Princess, who lives in a gorgeous palace worth about one million +roubles,—a rouble in gold is just our paper dollar. (This was true at +that time when our currency was depreciated.) After going through suites +of apartments, billiard room and salons, we found her in the boudoir, +and she received us with such a graceful cordiality that she won both +our hearts immediately, and we are now at her feet. Tomorrow General +Clay is to take us to the reception of the Spanish Ambassador, as they +are to give a ball soon to which he wants us to be invited. The Minister +seems very inclined to be attentive and kind. We shall presently be +presented in due form to the Imperial family. + +Charlie and I are very comfortably established in a nice apartment with +our books, and I want to stay here indefinitely. One must pass the +winter somewhere, and why not here, where so few Americans have tried +it? + +[Illustration: + + HON. CASSIUS M. CLAY, MINISTER TO RUSSIA. +] + +We have a jolly sleigh at our disposition, with a horse who rushes off +like mad. Vehicles are a necessity here, where the distances are so +tremendous, and no one ever walks, and you can hire excellent traps by +the day, week, or month, much cheaper than taking them by the course. +The sleighing has been splendid for the last week, and the Nevsky +Prospect any afternoon is a sight worth seeing, filled with all kinds of +sleighs. I have even seen one or two of our American cutters. All the +strange equipages you read about are actually true, and the _troika_ +with one horse trotting and the other two galloping is no uncommon +sight. The sleighing, when it once begins, lasts right along, as there +is no sun at all to melt it, the days being very short, and what little +sky there is overcast. You don’t feel the cold much either as there is +very little wind,—how I shiver when I think of the Mill Dam,—(The “Mill +Dam Road” a favorite Boston drive.), and we are learning many a wrinkle +in the art of keeping warm, which we shall bring out in America. The +shops, too, are fascinating, and I expect to invest heavily during my +stay in all kinds of Russian articles, Persian silks and Circassian +silver, Russian amulets, and the thousand and one things which you don’t +see even in the cosmopolitan shops of Paris; among others a complete +Russian harness, with a cap for the driver. There is a huge bazaar, +where everything can be found, built in a parallelogram, with shops on +the four sides. + +The most fascinating things are the hoods all the ladies wear, covering +just half their little fur caps. These are made of different colored +cloths with embroidery of gold or silver. The fur lined slippers, too, +are not bad, but I won’t tantalize you with descriptions. As I do not +anticipate coming here again soon I mean to do the thing up this time. I +skated today for the first time on a pond belonging to the Russian Yacht +Club, to which we have received tickets, but there were only a few +there, in fact the skating does not fairly begin until the Neva Skating +Club is open, which is the swell place, where all the nobility go. It is +gotten up by the English, and is a large square, fenced in with pine +trees planted in the ice, situated on the Neva in the city, with nice +houses to put on your skates and warm yourself, very necessary here, and +several times during the season they give _fêtes_ by night. We have +subscription tickets for the season, and I think it will be open in a +few days. But with all this we must not forget our art, and here we have +the magnificent gallery of the Hermitage, one of the finest though not +the best known in Europe, and we can wander a whole winter through its +endless galleries without exhausting the treasures. + +Sunday morning: I hope the little jacket and hat will be pleasing to +Master Billy, which Mr. Burgess is to bring from Paris. I will get him a +few of the Oriental and Cossack children’s dresses, which are stunning +and very plentiful here, and then I think he will make a sensation on +Beacon street. + +Well, my dear, I must close and dispatch this. Today we are to skate on +the Yacht Club Pond, as they have a _fête_ there every Sunday, and +tonight at midnight is the first _bal masqué_ at the Grand Opera. “On +with the dance,” and _vive la jeunesse_! Last evening we passed at the +English consul’s and met some very pretty young Cossacks, quite +civilized, however. Charlie sends lots of love to you both. He is now in +front of the fire with his feet in the air. Well, goodbye, and pinch +Billy’s cheeks for me. + + Nate. + +There is a pretty arrangement in Russian houses, which is not to be +found elsewhere that I know of. Part of the large drawing-room, +generally a corner by windows, is often fenced off by itself, raised on +a platform, about a foot above the rest of the floor. Here is formed a +sort of garden in the house. The light iron fence is covered with some +green, flowering vine, and inside are some exotics, palms and other +tropical plants, and the effect is enchanting. The ladies select this as +their especial haunt, transforming it into a boudoir where they read +their favorite novels, write their notes, or work at embroidery. + +I made my purchases of Circassian trinkets and toys, to send home to my +nephews and nieces, in the _Passage_, a much frequented place for the +idlers of the town, in imitation of the Burlington Arcade in London, and +the _Passage des Panoramas_ of Paris. + +Those were pleasant skating parties we had on the Neva, in the open rink +of the Club, where all the nobility and swells of the place came out to +show their agility. Thanks to much practice and many a tumble upon the +Frog Pond of Boston, I was a skillful skater, and my partners were also +proficient in that difficult accomplishment. How we dashed along over +the place where Peter the Great had often been paddled in his rough-hewn +boat, now forward together arm-in-arm, now one backward and the other +forward, each bending in time to the graceful curves of the outside +edge! + + + TO MY MOTHER. + + St. Petersburg, 27th Nov. Russian Calendar. + 9th Dec. American Calendar. + + My dear Mamma. + +Your letter containing the tribute to Charlie Smith I found at the bank +yesterday. How true and good the account of him is. You expected it +would reach me in Paris, but you see we have got off before. We are +getting somewhat settled here now, though we are not as yet fairly +_lancés_ into the gay life. This is partly on account of the horrid +weather, for ever since we have been here it has been gradually melting +into slosh and the sleighing rapidly disappearing. Sudden changes are +common, and today is cold again with snow falling. + + + GREAT SEA STREET. + +We have got a very nice little apartment on the great Moscow street, +just in the centre of the city, and the house opposite being very low we +get as much light as is possible anywhere. + +We are in a French _maison meublée_ with a very pleasant Arthur O’Leary +style of _table d’hôte_, where we meet half a dozen different gentlemen +from all kinds of countries, and we talk in French of the relative +merits of our respective nationalities. In fact, we do more French +talking here than in Paris. In the afternoon before dinner we take a +lesson in Russian, our teacher using French as the basis of instruction, +and I presume by the time I leave Russia, I shall be unable to speak any +other language. It is considerable difficult though, but I go on the +principle of learning everything. + +[Illustration: + + BOLSHAJA MORSKAJA (GREAT SEA STREET). +] + +The Church of Sault Isaac, which is about the only sight we have seen, +is perfectly gorgeous, with its huge pillars of malachite and _lapis +lazuli_ from the mines of Demidoff. You enter, and a mysterious feeling, +half oriental and half European, carries you away. The perpetual +incense, the prostrate worshipers, the delicious temperature and the +ornaments which combine the _luxe_ of Europe with the savage +gorgeousness of Asia, form a whole which the churches of Italy do not +have. Perhaps this combination of East and West is the great charm to +the life in Russia. The toilettes of the ladies have come from the brain +and fingers of Parisian _couturierès_ adapted to climate here. The +Oriental element you see strong in the livery of servants and the +uniforms of officers. The feeling of caste is very marked, and while the +London flunkey beats the world in servility, and the Italian beggar in +woe-begone dejection, the Russian servant seems to be afraid of you, +recognizing the superior man in everything. + +[Illustration: + + CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN ST. PETERSBURG. +] + + + PRETTY RUSSIAN MAIDENS. + +I have not yet had a good chance to see all the different sleighs in +their glory, but from what I have seen I think they will be stunning. We +saw two pretty little Russian maidens, with their white furs, driving +along in a jolly sleigh, the horse in the shafts trotting gaily, and one +on his left cantering beside him. + +The omnibuses have three horses, but I have not seen a swell in his +_troika_. The horses certainly trot faster than any except ours, and +some I see on the Nevsky Prospect would make a very creditable show on +the Brighton road. + +P. M. We have been out today to visit Mr. Pierce, (A relative of the +Longfellows, who had been secretary of legation during President +Pierce’s administration, and at the time we were in Russia connected +with the Winans in the railroad building business.) who lives about four +miles outside the city, and after passing the place by mistake and +returning, we succeeded in finding him, and received a most hospitable +reception. He seemed much inclined to help us in any way to have a jolly +time. The sleighing was fine and the air deliciously cold and clear. + +The Russian youths at the theatres are a most enthusiastic crowd, and I +have seen singers at the Opera, ballet dancers, or even a circus star +called out five or six times. The Grand Opera House is very fine, and +the ballet troupe gorgeous, quite as good, if not better, than the one +in Paris. There is a theatre (Saint Michel) where they give French and +German plays, so that one can have most everything. + +Well, I have lots of letters to write and no time to write any of them, +so that this must suffice you for the week. + + Nathan. + +The theatre is large and finely decorated. The Imperial box is always +ready to be occupied by the Tsar or some member of his family, the +sentries standing on each side of it in their gorgeous uniforms as +motionless as statues. The pit is filled with the _viveurs_ of the city, +young and old, who are in their stalls, lorgnettes in hand, watching +every movement on the stage. Between the acts all file out into the +smoking room, when a _papyrus_ is inhaled, and some cooling beverage +partaken of in the interlude of the play. + +The ballet itself is a masterpiece of skill in its peculiar style. The +dancers are trained carefully for years in a school under the Imperial +patronage, and only appear upon the stage after having gone through a +long apprenticeship. The story of the piece, of which the scene takes +place in Russia or some of the Oriental countries, is most carefully +worked up by the author, and entirely acted in pantomime and dance. All +the passions of love, hatred, jealousy and revenge will be exhibited by +motions aided by the changing strains of an excellent orchestra. When a +favorite _danseuse_ comes bounding across the stage, attired in Russian +costume, delineating in her movements sentiments which appeal to the +pride or patriotism of the audience, the enthusiasm of the house knows +no limit, and words and shouts of applause rend the air long and loud. + + + CHARLES K. SMITH. + +I went to New York on my seventeenth birthday, February 2, 1860, when I +was a Freshman at Harvard College, to pay a visit to the family of David +Lane, whose wife was Caroline Lamson, sister of Colonel Daniel S. +Lamson, friends of my mother, who lived at 12 East 10th Street or +Brevoort Place, as it was called. The firm was Lane, Lamson, & Co. The +American flag in my trophy was given me by one of this family. It was on +this New York visit that I made the acquaintance of Charlie Smith, and +he seemed to take a great liking to me. + +In my diary of Feb. 2, 1860, I find, “In the evening people came, it +being the Lanes’ reception evening, Mr. Smith and others.” This is the +first mention of him. One evening, shortly after this, he invited us all +to go to the Italian opera at the Academy of Music, in Brooklyn, and we +accepted, driving over and back. + +The next mention is in regard to a visit to Weston, Mass., “Feb. 16, +1860. Went to Weston in a glorious snow storm. Stunning dinner. Went for +two of the party in an ox team to the station. Took profiles in the +evening. Supper stunninger. + +Sunday, Feb. 19, 1860. There was no church but we went out in the sleigh +to see Mr. Smith’s protégé, deaf and dumb. (A boy he was interested in +and was having educated.) Good dinner.” + +Daniel S. Lamson, our especial host and entertainer in 1860, was +commissioned Major 16th Mass. Infantry, Aug. 1, 1861, Lieutenant Colonel +July 23, 1862, and resigned for disability Sept. 29, 1862. But this was +the year before the War. + +I always called him “Uncle Dan” and do so still (1904). + +Charlie Smith was about ten years my senior, and that sort of regard +from an elder is always appreciated by a boy. At the time of my visit to +New York he was stopping at the Brevoort House. He was a member of the +New York Club in Broadway, the crack one at that time, and won my heart +and esteem at once. I was devoted to him. One day we strolled down +Broadway and he treated me to oysters and a glass of beer, and I thought +I was a man of the world. + +When we met at Weston he fascinated me more than ever, with his stories +and songs, and we had many merry evenings. I was treated as a young man, +not a boy, and I look back to those old times with unmingled delight. + +The letter I received from my mother announcing Charlie Smith’s death at +San Francisco, I can now recall and explain. Of Boston parentage, he had +gone to California in the early days, and made what at that time was +considered a good fortune. He was killed accidentally by a shot when out +gunning. He was so popular in the city of San Francisco that the body +was laid in state in the rooms of the Union Club of that city, as a +tribute to the appreciation in which he was held by its members. + + + THE NEW YORK CLUB. + +The New York Club, corner of Broadway and Great Jones street, I never +visited with Charlie Smith, but during the War they moved to the Haight +house, Fifth avenue and 15th street. That was the apogee of their +greatness, and I was introduced and became a six months’ member. Great +Jones street was near property which belongs to the Jones-De +Trobriand-Post families. + + + TO MY MOTHER. + + Wednesday, Dec. 20, 1866. + Saint Petersburg. + + My dear Mamma: + +I begin you a letter now, to finish sometime if possible. Your last one +talked to me about the furs. I think you are quite right to want lots of +Russian things, as they are fascinating, and you will probably never +have as good an opportunity of getting them. Be easy, then, for I am to +buy no end of various things, and send them all off to Boston, by the +first Spring boat of Mr. Ropes. Mr. Prince, who is the head one of the +house here, is very obliging, and being a good judge of furs, I think I +can satisfy you in that line, though they won’t be in time for this +winter. I shall buy the skins only, and you can have them made up in +Boston to suit you, as the fur goods they wear here are different from +ours, and might not please you. For instance, I have not seen a pair of +cuffs in St. Petersburg. I shall get handsome, dark Siberian sable +skins, worthy of a princess, Persian table cloths, malachite ornaments, +slippers, Circassian silver, etc., etc., and also something which will +make you very happy—a little box or two of the stunning tea, which is +brought across from Pekin in caravans. + +We are to dine with Mr. Prince next Tuesday, which is Christmas day, and +have since had to decline an invitation for the same day, given us by +the English Ambassador. + + + EMPEROR ALEXANDER II.—PRESENTATION. + +Two days ago we were presented to the Emperor. We were quite alone, no +other people being presented the same day. We marched through suites of +apartments, and were formally ushered into His Majesty’s billiard room, +where we were received by two of the chamberlains, and from there we +went into the reception room where we soon had a little conversation +with the head of all the Russias in our native (?) language of French. +He is very nice, I give you my word, but we were disappointed in not +seeing the Empress, though this comes some other time. + +We have a good many occasions of airing our French in the _beau monde_ +of Russia, and I find that there is no trouble with it; the only thing +to do being to go right along regardless of errors, for I see that +although I do not speak very well, there are plenty who speak quite as +bad and worse, and this being a neutral ground of course one is bolder. +However, a great many of the well educated speak English admirably. + +All this goes to show that we are in for society now, and have to await +quietly a round of balls, operas, and dinners, and return our calls most +punctiliously, a form of etiquette about which the Russians are very +exacting. + +We went to a jolly young count’s (Koucheleff Besborodko) the other day, +who immediately made us at home with a delicious cigar. His house, take +it all in all, was about as lovely as any I have ever seen, with an +Oriental smoking room, a Pompadour boudoir, a Chinese room, a long +gallery of paintings, an immense dancing hall, and a conservatory +arranged with grottoes and cascades, a rustic bridge, and an original +old statue of a satyr, picked up in Rome. The Count is a great +connoisseur of art, and his collection in all its branches is +magnificent, with souvenirs of every city of Europe, and all the ages of +the world, enough to drive to despair any such little dabblers as +myself. + +I have met quite a charming young Austrian lady, who lives with the +Spanish Ambassador’s wife, but I shall take good care of my heart and +bring it back to Boston. + +Our acquaintances, thus far, are eminently diplomatic, as you see, the +English consul’s family especially being very attentive. + +We skated yesterday on the Neva Club place for the first time, as the +grounds are only just opened, but today it is thawing again, and we must +wait a bit for it to freeze. + +I think you would be rather frightened at the way they drive here in the +sleighs, rushing off as fast as possible, yelling to people and +carriages to get out of the way, and then bringing the horse up suddenly +with a droll sound—bhr-r-r-r!—which corresponds to “whoa” in English. In +some letter I will describe a sleigh for you, but they are all alike, +from the Emperor’s to the street cabs, except in finish. There are very +few covered vehicles here to hire, and you always go, by night and day, +in an open sleigh, so you can judge from that, that the cold is not so +awfully severe here as you imagine. We take very good care not to be +frozen, as we both have a horror of the amusement, but enough for today. + + Nate. + + + THE PRESENTATION. + +The Hon. Cassius M. Clay, the American Minister, presented C. A. +Longfellow and myself to the Emperor. + + + THE INVITATION. + + Translated from the French. + + Ministry of the Imperial Court. + Direction of Ceremonies. + St. Petersburg, 5–17 December, 1866. + + The Grand Master of Ceremonies has the honor to inform Mr. N. + Appleton, that he will have the honor of being presented to His + Majesty the Emperor tomorrow, Tuesday, 6–18 December, at half past one + in the afternoon at the Winter Palace. + + You are requested to come to the door of Her Majesty the Empress. + + [Seal] + [See binding of this book.] + +The invitation was gladly accepted, not only from the desire of meeting +in person the Autocrat of all the Russias, but also because once done +your name was put upon the list of distinguished visitors to the +capital, and, as a matter of course, you were invited to all the balls +and festivities of the season. General Clay called for us in his sleigh, +and we drove to the Winter Palace, where we were met by some of the +officers of the staff, on horseback. The regulation dress prescribed for +us was “black or blue dress coat, black vest and pantaloons, white +cravat and white kids,” as stated in a marginal note by General Clay. + +Having been ushered into the presence of the Emperor, as detailed in my +letter to my mother, we had a little chat with him, principally +answering some questions about America, and then retired, and went down +stairs. + +While waiting in the hall below for our sleigh to drive up, the Tsar +came bounding down the staircase, followed by his favorite Newfoundland +dog, with which he was often photographed, and before jumping into his +sleigh and dashing off on some call, he stopped and exchanged a few more +words with us. Indeed the whole interview made a most agreeable +impression upon me. + + + GORTSCHAKOFF. + + “The days when the great Nicholas leaned on him sweep back from the + mists of the buried years. In his old age, he is the Richelieu of + another Tsar, for Russia draws the sword in fight once more.” + + —_Col. Richard Henry Savage_ on Gortschakoff in 1876. + +I was naturally very much delighted with the prospect of being presented +to the distinguished veteran Russian diplomatist and chancellor of the +empire. This occurred in December of this year, 1866. General Clay had +arranged the interview beforehand with Count Gortschakoff, and one +morning called for us at our hotel in his sleigh to take us there. +Another person was of the party, and strangely enough a negro, a certain +Captain Chester, who was out in Russia on some special business. + +We started off through the cold, clear air, and were soon at the door of +the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, where we were expected, and ushered in. +We first met Mr. Westerman, a gentleman who for some time had been Count +Gortschakoff’s right hand man and assistant in the tremendous duties of +his office, and were then shown by him into the private cabinet of the +chancellor. + +Our interview was, of course, not lengthy, but most interesting. The old +gentleman chatted with us very pleasantly on different topics, and in +his manner and reception of us was as simple and unaffected as a child. +He looked hale and hearty, and as though he had before him many years, +which he meant to devote to aiding the development of Russian progress +and civilization, and he did live two years after the death of the Tsar +and died in Baden-Baden March 11, 1883. + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + + St. Petersburg, + Thursday, Dec. 27, 1866. + + My dear Mamma. + +Another week has glided rapidly by, finding us still at St. Petersburg, +and I have two of your letters to acknowledge, the last one bearing date +of December 9th. + + + TO CRONSTADT—AN AMERICAN PARTY. + +What have we been doing? Among other things yesterday a party of +Americans went to see Cronstadt. We were, General Roberts, U. S. A., a +good specimen of an American general (Benjamin Stone Roberts, graduate +of West Point, served in the Mexican war and the Rebellion, brevetted +Brig. Gen. U. S. A., and Major Gen. U. S. V., inventor of the Roberts +breech-loading rifle, which he was trying to introduce to the Russians. +He was a remarkably genial fellow, and had lots of good stories which he +delighted in telling.), Mr. Sawyer, correspondent of the New York +_Herald_, and a very pleasant companion, C. A. L., and myself, and we +had a Russian colonel put at our disposal to open the gates of +everything. We went down by rail to a place opposite Cronstadt, and then +crossed over the Gulf of Finland on the ice, with two funny little +Finnish ponies to each sledge, one trotting and the other galloping, but +going like the wind, and doing the five miles in less than half an hour, +without lessening speed once. It was very cold and our fur coats were +necessary. We visited some of the forts, and afterwards breakfasted at +the Navy and Army Club of the place. The whole effect of the day and the +adventures were eminently Russian. We had to get up long before +daylight, and saw the sun rise about 9 o’clock, something one does not +often see here, as we are generally asleep at that time. + + + THE IMPERIAL STABLES. + +One day last week we visited the Imperial stables, which I thought very +shabby, although many of the horses were stunning, and afterwards we +examined all the swell carriages and sledges, which have been used at +coronations, weddings and _fêtes_ from the time of Peter the Great to +the Princess Dagmar. They showed all varieties of taste, and are more +magnificent than those at the Trianon at Versailles. + +On Christmas Day Charlie and self dined with Mr. Prince, and attended +just before dinner the christening of his youngest child. It was quite a +large dinner, Anglo-American, and most decidedly respectable. It is +curious how very few American families there are living in St. +Petersburg. Last Sunday we dined with Mr. Whistler, (George W., father +of the artist James Abbott McNeill W.) who is one of the gentlemen +connected with the Winans car manufactory. There were about twelve, all +gentlemen, and all Americans, indeed it included almost all the American +males here,—General Clay, and the Consul, Mr. Winans, Mr. Pierce, and +others, and it was jolly enough. + +On Saturday next Charlie and I think of starting for Moscow, spending +ten days, or so, and then returning, as we give up the Odessa plan, but +we have not quite decided. + +Well, I must stop now, as I go in a minute to drive with the Spanish +Ambassador and his wife, the Duke and Duchess d’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, +but whether it is a “_grand diner diplomatique_” or a “_petite causerie +intime_” I know not. + +Friday morning: I have just time to finish and dispatch this now, before +going out to perform the numerous last duties on the eve of our +departure for Moscow. Cards must be sent round, etc. etc. + +The dinner yesterday was very good, rather in the heavy diplomatic line, +old swells with countless decorations, and jewelled dowagers nodding +over the table, with a sprinkling of youthful _attachés_ and officers +filling up the corners. Later in the evening I went to a ball at the +rooms of the Artists’ Club, and danced a little. + +Well, I must rush out, one is always hurried here, as I have before +observed. My next will probably be from Moscow, where I can give you an +account of our cousin Eliza, and deliver her your present; also, the +Kremlin, and the tea-drinking gardens. A hard snow storm which looks +like continuing. + + Adieu. Nate. + + + ROSS WINANS. + +In a letter from my mother visiting Baltimore in 1852, to my sister and +myself in Boston, she wrote:—“This morning we have been to see the most +superb house in the country, built by a gentleman of the name of Winans, +who has been employed by the Russian government in the construction of +railroads and cars, and has made an immense fortune.” This letter was +sealed according to the custom of the time with a red wafer. + +Ross Winans, a native of New Jersey, was an inventor and manufacturer of +railroad machines in Baltimore, and undertook the Russian railroads by +the advice of George W. Whistler. He died in Baltimore, in 1877, at the +age of eighty-one. He had two sons who went to Russia; Thomas de Kay, +who died in Newport, R. I., June 11, 1878, aged fifty-eight, and William +Louis, who never returned to this country, but went to England after the +completion of the St. Petersburg and Moscow railroad, and died in +London, June 25, 1897, aged seventy-five. + + + + + CHAPTER FIFTH. + MOSCOW. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS. + TROTTING IN RUSSIA. + + “Say, Mandarin, fresh from the Orient old, + Will they give us the queue when they give us the gold? + Rise, Curtin, arise! Let the Manchu declare— + Is he under the paw of the Great Northern Bear? + + You uncovered the Pole, brought Pan Michael to light, + Ran Sienkievitch down through the vast polar night; + Then, skirting the coast to the isles of the Celt, + You caught the sweet ballads that make the heart melt, + + Thus linking two worlds. Nate Appleton tried, + But the Gulf was too deep, or the Isthmus too wide. + Brother Pratt had the keynote—he doesn’t know which, + Art, music, the lingo of Ivanovitch.” + —_James Herbert Morse._ + + Harvard College Class of 1863. Poem at Class Dinner of 1901. + + + FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW. + +The journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow is a long ride, and in winter +when the days are short, seems to be a night which will never end. You +take the train in the afternoon and have not accomplished many scores of +versts, or disposed of many hours, before twilight fades into dark, and +the great snow plain on every side loses its brilliant whiteness, and +has a grey and mysterious look. So, too, in the morning, though late, +the sun is not more than fairly up when you behold in the distance the +gilded domes and fairy minarets of the old Russian metropolis, as they +first appear, and you feel that at last you are in the heart of the +Empire. But the hours passed in the cars are far from tedious. “Car” is +the word that can be used, for those on that railroad line much more +resembled what we have in the United States, than anything to be found +in Europe. They were divided into small rooms or compartments, a large +saloon being left in the middle, and a passage going the length of the +car, so that you could pass from one end to the other, and get off on +either platform. At that time no regular beds were made up, as in our +“sleepers,” but the cushions could be comfortably arranged and the weary +traveller repose very satisfactorily. There was, too, a room overhead +for smoking, which you entered by climbing up a narrow, ladder-like +staircase, and where the fragrant Havana could be enjoyed in security. +Double doors and windows kept out the excessive cold, and a good stove +plentifully supplied with wood made the temperature within all that was +to be desired. The buffets on the road could not be excelled, and a +_table d’hôte_ dinner was taken at one of the stations about six +o’clock, which offered a glittering array of glass and silver as you +entered on leaving the train, while the display of viands alone would +tempt one, were he not ravenous with travel. + +[Illustration: + + THE KREMLIN, MOSCOW. +] + +The occupants of the car, in an easy fellow-feeling way, soon get +acquainted with each other, and throwing off the reserve they might +otherwise have, mix together in democratic freedom. Their nationalities +are soon known, if not their names, for there is always one man aboard +who has a knack of finding them out and of communicating adroitly his +information to the others, and stories of travelling adventures in +different countries, with accounts of the queer persons met, and the +dangers escaped, beguile the hours. + +St. Petersburg is entirely a modern city, and a modern city like other +European capitals, or, rather, like the modern parts of them. The +stranger going there expects, very naturally, to see predominant the +stamp of Muscovite nationality but he does not find it, as the principal +public buildings were designed by foreign architects, and show plainly +traces of the country from which the brain that gave them birth has +come. + +Moscow, fortunately, is quite different, and is well worthy of being the +place where the Tsars are crowned. Any one who dropped down their +blindfold would, as soon as the bandage was removed from his eyes, cry +out like the soldiers of Napoleon’s army, as its green roofs and gilded +cupolas met their anxious gaze, “Moscow, Moscow!” + +No city in the world has a more marked style, which is neither of the +East nor of the West, but rather suggestions of both. Constantinople, +Venice, Vienna, all can be seen in part, and as you look at it calmly, +in awe and admiration, you can only say, “This place is unique, it +resembles nothing else,” and you know why it is so, in reflecting that +here is the old homestead of the great Slavonic race, a race +sufficiently different from all others to be well warranted in leaving +one typical city as a monument. + + + FIRST LETTER FROM MOSCOW. + +To my mother from Moscow I wrote as follows:—I cannot date this as there +is no French paper about, and also, what with the Russian and our +difference in the calendar, time is considerably mixed up. This cannot +be better shown than by the agreeable fact that we have two Christmas +Days this year, one which we passed in St. Petersburg, and the other +which comes next week, when we are to see a real German Christmas tree +at the Carnatzes. + +Well, then to begin, Mrs. Appleton, we are now in Moscow, a truly +Russian city, and as different to St. Petersburg as Boston is to Paris. +We left St. P. on Saturday afternoon, and after a journey of hours, with +several Americans in the train, we arrived here, and are comfortably +established in the Hotel Dusaux. + +I first went to find Curtin, my old classmate and the secretary of our +Legation, who was much surprised at seeing me, and said he would do his +best possible to make our stay pleasant. We then called on my cousin +Eliza Carnatz, and had no difficulty in finding her and making ourselves +known, and she was delighted at seeing her relatives and appreciated +your present, which I am happy to say has finally reached its +destination safely. This picture (The letter-head showing a colored view +of the Kremlin.) will do for your scrap book, so I will leave it entire. + +In the evening Curtin took us to a Russian party, and I think I passed +about the pleasantest evening there in Europe. It was at the house of +General Behring, a lineal descendant of the one who discovered the +Straits, and the _soirée_ began with private theatricals in Russian and +French, afterwards dancing, then the mazourka, then a sit down supper, +the universal custom at parties here, and finally the _cotillon_, +something as with us, and home between four and five. + +The General received us with charming cordiality, and would make us +believe we were doing him a favor in coming, and his lovely +daughters,—their mother being dead,—acted well in the plays, and did the +honors of the house most gracefully. + +There were several pretty Russian young ladies there, and many were the +sentiments and toasts for the friendship between Russia and America, the +two great rising nations of the world! + +The young ladies here nearly all speak English well, besides French, +German, Russian, and also, sometimes, Italian. This is true of many of +the young men, too, and although this seems to make us very ignorant, +still, in the matter of general education, the classics, philosophy, +mathematics, etc., I imagine we are their superiors. Moreover, languages +are almost a necessity here, while with us they are only a very +desirable luxury. + +Wednesday p. m.: The day after the ball we did not rise much before +dinner time, when we dined with the Carnatzes. The party consisted of +Coz. Eliza and husband, Mr. Watson, the father of his first wife, a +brother, a French lady friend, and one or two others. It seemed quite +natural there, as there were several family portraits on the walls, and +her album was filled with photographs of all of us. We had a quietly +pleasant evening, with long chats about Russia and America, family +events, literature, politics,—and drank tea indefinitely. + + + RUSSIAN TEA-DRINKING. + +Tea is the national drink of the Russians, and a genuine tea-drinking +restaurant is very curious. We went to one the other evening which is +the resort of the _isvoschiks_ (cabbies) and the peasants. Your true +Russ orders a pot of tea and another larger one of hot water, the latter +of which is often replenished, and he will sit over it several hours, +drinking fifteen or twenty cups of tea, and not finishing until he can +get no more color out of it. What do your delicate nerves think of this? + +[Illustration: + + DRINKING TEA. +] + +The tea is wonderfully good, and the commonest stuff here would put to +the blush the very best hotel article in America and much of that you +have at family tea parties also. + +Yesterday morning we went with Mr. Young, a very pleasant and attentive +young American from Niagara, who has been here several years in the +business of agricultural implements, to see the Kremlin, and all the big +bells therein, which are truly wonderful, and can make much noise when +they try, and in the evening to the Carnatz’s box at the ballet of the +Grand Theatre. The building is considered, perhaps, the finest in +Europe, and the ballet itself as is always in Russia, remarkably fine. +After the ballet Charlie and I went to a ball at the Kosakoff’s, where +we had a good idea of a fine Moscow house and the Muscovite _beau +monde_. Dancing, supper, music, etc., and finally I had for my partner +in the German cotillon the prettiest girl in Moscow, a Miss Martinoff. + + + FAST TROTTERS IN MOSCOW. + +We went out today to the race course, where they often have races in +sleighs, and saw the sports of Moscow exercising their fast trotters. +The scene was very like ours at home, and we conversed on the relative +merits of Russian and American trotters, and one enthusiastic old Russ +wanted to bet two hundred thousand roubles on his country, so that if I +buy and import “Dexter” (The fastest trotter of the time.) I can make a +goodly sum. + + + SNOW HILLS. + +The snow hills are a national institution on the same principle as our +coasting, only the hills are artificial and are all ice, and you take a +lady on the sled with you, and dash down like the wind. There are two +hills opposite, so that they go from one to the other and then return. + + Remembrance to all, + Nate. + + + THE CARNATZ CONNECTION. + +My diary when a boy of fourteen had the following entry:—“January 16, +1858. Our Russian cousin sent us some nice things; among them were a +malachite pin and sleeve buttons, and one of the medals thrown to the +peasants at the coronation of the present Emperor Alexander.” + +My mother’s mother, Mrs. Jesse Sumner, was a daughter of Mrs. Nathaniel +Coffin, whose son Thomas established himself in business in Moscow about +1829, and died in Perovo, Russia, in 1832. His daughter Eliza married +Mr. Carnatz, a German. In 1870, we received the intelligence that they +proposed to remove to Dresden. + + + THE CARNATZ CHILDREN. + +Nothing has ever shown me more conclusively how easy it is for children, +when very young, to learn and speak several languages, than my +experience with my little Carnatz cousins. Of course being Russians by +birth, that may naturally have been their first language, but their +mother, who insisted upon being an American, the country of her father, +had them at once instructed, probably by herself, in the English tongue. +Then her husband, their father, being a German the language of the +Fatherland had its proper place. After that came French, which was the +cosmopolitan language of all well-to-do people in the Russian empire. +They could rattle off these various languages “as easily as rolling off +a log,” and so can any one who begins them in childhood. + + + A RUSSIAN MANSION. + +A good type of the elegant Russian mansion was large, made of wood and +only two stories, with a long array of rooms running _en suite_. At the +door stood the ever watchful porter, ready to take the _shubes_ and +overshoes of the guests, and never forgetting to whom each belonged, +resplendent in his showy livery with the eagles embroidered in the wide +border of his cape, looking the picture of comfort as he stood by the +blazing fire, the thermometer outside showing a temperature well below +the zero of Fahrenheit. Beyond him, at the foot of the stairs, a huge, +stuffed black bear stood erect, in his paws a salver, with a pitcher and +glasses, as if bidding you welcome to the hospitalities of the house. + + + THE CITY AND ITS ENVIRONS. + +We went on many excursions in the city and its environs. The Kremlin, +with its endless interesting objects, the churches so numerous that they +say there is one for every day in the year, and the old historical +monuments from which can be gleaned a knowledge of all the phases from +barbarism to civilization through which the vast Muscovite nationality +has passed, were carefully and intelligently studied. We would ramble +for hours through the curious bazaar, the Gostinny Dvor, gazing at the +different wares exposed, talking and bargaining with the shrewd Jew +shopkeepers, and picking up many curiosities, from Persian talismans to +Siberian rugs, which had found their way to this cosmopolitan mart in +boats through the Caspian Sea and up the curving Volga River, or in +caravans all along the dreary plains and through the steep mountain +ranges, from the interior of China and Hindostan. Malachite from the +mines in the Ural Mountains, fragrant packages of high-priced tea, +chain-armor from Circassia, and quaint Albanian gems, gorgeous colored +silks, pipes of every description, in short, a perfect medley of +_bric-a-brac_, we hunted up leisurely, sending daily some newly +discovered treasure to our collections. + + + TROTTING IN RUSSIA. + +The trotting during the winter months takes place on the ice, when a +large river or pond is accessible; as, for instance, on the Neva itself +at St. Petersburg, which is the favorite place of all. But a well made +track on the frozen snow is nearly, if not quite, as good, and this can +be found and laid out anywhere. The course, which is one or two versts +long,—the Russian verst is 3501 English feet,—is in the form of an +ellipse; that is, the length of two of the curving sides is much greater +than that of the other two, as is often seen in American tracks, where a +long and narrow piece of ground only can be obtained. But now comes the +great peculiarity of the Russian race, which is, that the horses do not +start or trot together. One starts from a line in the centre of one of +the long sides of the course, while the other starts from a line exactly +opposite and on the other side. Should there be four horses entered they +have two parallel tracks close to each other, and for six horses three +of these ellipses, and so on. When there is more than one track the +effect is most peculiar: for, at the signal for starting, the horses all +seem to be rushing off in different directions. + +Then, too, the horses all start from a standstill, each one toeing the +line before the word “go” is given. Of course, in this system, there is +not the excitement of seeing the horses together, changing places, now +one ahead, and now another; those who break held in, and all trying to +secure and keep the pole from the others. They merely trot round the +course at their greatest speed and the one which returns to his goal or +starting point first, is declared the winner. In case of breaking, a +certain number of steps at a gallop only is allowed during the heat, and +any horse that is not brought down into this allotted number is thrown +out of the races by the judges, and loses his chance. It is common to +have a running horse by the side of the trotter to excite him to his +utmost speed, but generally this horse is not harnessed, but is mounted +by a skillful rider, who keeps close alongside of the other, knowing +exactly the pace at which he can go without breaking. + +The sleighs used are very light, seemingly made of some kind of +basket-work, and also very low, the driver being seated not more than a +foot off the ground or snow, bracing himself with his feet in a sort of +stirrup on either side. Low vehicles are also used for racing on the +gravel track, and primitive they are in appearance, a narrow board +supported on the axles, with four small wheels nearly the same size, and +the American twowheeled spider-sulky has come into use, as the small +wheeled vehicles detract from the speed, on account of a badly regulated +centre of gravity and excessive friction. + +For getting the greatest pulling power out of the horse with the least +fatigue, and leaving all the muscles unimpeded and in full play, the +Russian method of harnessing is excellent. The shafts of the _drosky_ or +sleigh, the collar of the horse and the duga meet at one point on the +horse’s shoulder, and at this point is all the strain of pulling. There +are neither traces nor breeching to interfere with the action. The +collar, made of wood, is carefully fitted to the horse’s neck, and while +the shafts are inclined to press it _against_ the neck, the duga exerts +a corresponding pressure out on either side, and these three parts of +the harness are so lashed together by leather thongs that they remain +firmly in place, and it is a rare sight to find a horse with his neck +galled from exercise. + +[Illustration: + + A COURSIER. +] + +The horses are put on the track very young, at the age of two, three or +four years, and after that time, are found rather to lose than increase +their speed. Perhaps there may be peculiarities in the breed which gives +them their greatest strength when young, or it may be the climate brings +out forces which in milder regions it takes more time to develop. +Certain it is that the Russian horse, of which the Orloff is the +handsomest type, when taken to a foreign country soon loses his grace of +action and fire. At home they are the _beau ideal_ of beauty, with great +natural knee action, arching necks, distended nostrils and flashing +eyes, but it has often happened that the same horse which would attract +the attention of every passer by on the Nevski Prospect, when seen in +the Bois de Boulogne or Hyde Park has lost his distinguishing traits and +seems but an ordinary animal. + +As there is always a question as to the beauty of “banging” the horse’s +tail in accordance with the English taste, or of leaving the natural +growth as was more common in America some years ago than at present, I +would state that the tail in Russia is left as nature made it, long and +waving, and sometimes even trailing on the ground. And for another +disputed question, whether or not it is beneficial to clip the horse in +winter, without touching on the numerous arguments which humanity, +convenience and preference have brought plausibly up on either side, I +will simply say that in Russia it is the universal rule to leave the +horses, whether they be for work or for pleasure, with the long-haired +coat, God has given them, untouched all through the months when they +need some protection against the cold. + + + TO HARNESS A HORSE A LA RUSSE. + +First put on the bridle, which is merely a headstall without blinders. +Saddle and surcingle together. Collar and breeching together. Put the +horse in the shafts and put on the hoop, strapping the shafts and hoop +together with a long strap, which is afterwards wound around the shafts. +There is a strap on each shaft just opposite the saddle. The one on the +left shaft goes over the saddle, passing through rings, and is wound +around the right shaft. The one on the right shaft goes through loops +under the surcingle and is wound around the left shaft. These straps +help to keep the shafts firmly in place. The horse pulls from his +collar. The ends of the shafts and hoop must just meet, the hoop going +inside of the shafts and pressing them out. Of the four straps from the +top of the hoop, two go under the check strap and fasten to the bit +ring, and the other two, with the loops through which the reins pass, +are fastened to the shafts, behind the hoop. The bit should be simple +snaffle. + +The running horse is on the left side. A strap goes from his bit to the +shaft of the wheeler, passing through the martingale ring. This strap is +quite long, and gives him considerable play. The rein, _only one_, goes +from the outside ring of the bit. + +For a pair of horses there are no saddles. The traces are fastened to +leather rings on the collar. A surcingle is fastened on the traces and +passes under each horse, close behind his forelegs. + +They always drive with four reins but this is useless. + +The ridiculous custom of having blinders over the horse’s eyes is +unknown to the Russians, except as imported from other countries. The +animal is allowed to see for himself on all sides, pleasant or ugly +sights, and is not treated like an infant, whom his human doctors +suppose is going to be frightened at what may meet his gaze. Sensible +both for horse and man is this, as the former doubtless derives pleasure +in his way from the sights of the street or the scenery of the country, +while the latter enjoys seeing what is one of the finest points of a +horse—his eye. + +Check reins are happily not a part of the Russian harness. + +The men who congregate about the race-course are pretty nearly the same +types in all the nations of the world. There are the elaborate dandies, +known as _petits crévès_ in France, who go because it is the fashion to +see and be seen, whether or not they have any taste for the racing +itself, and can tell one horse from another. There are gentlemen who +really are devoted to the noble animal, who are interested in improving +the breeds, and who, if possessed of fortune, generally have some of +their own stock taking part in the races. Then comes the sporting +fraternity of all degrees, horse dealers sharp for making a good bargain +in buying or selling, trainers, jockeys, stable boys and besides them +plenty of loafers who are there for betting on the race, or for “turning +an honest (?) penny” in any way that their wits suggest. + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + +Moscow, Dec. 27, 1866. This is dated by the Russian calendar, which is +just twelve days behind ours, so you can calculate. I have a few minutes +before going to dine with Cousin Eliza to begin this and I will dip +promiscuously into some of the events of the past week. + + + THE CHRISTMAS TREE. + +Let me see,—Christmas has come and gone for the second time this year, +and we have seen the way it is done in Russia. It is the same old +story—a tree, _arbre de Noël_,—everywhere, though the custom has been +brought here by the Germans. + +We went to the Carnatzes about half-past seven, and they being German of +course all the arrangements were _a la mode Allemande_. The tree always +comes off Christmas eve, and is generally a family gathering, gotten up +especially for the amusement of the little ones. A large tree just like +ours at home, greeted our gaze on entering, placed on a table, +brilliantly lighted, covered with all kinds of things, bonbons, gold +balls, etc., topped off with an American flag in compliment to us. The +presents were all lying around on tables, and the tree remains untouched +for a week, so that poor children can come in and enjoy it on different +days. + +Charlie and I were not forgotten, and we received each a portfolio +filled with different views of Moscow. + +Every guest, on leaving, also, takes a huge box filled with almonds, +sugar plums, cakes, etc., etc., quite enough to make you ill for a week. +The party was not very large, and we broke up just before midnight to go +to the French Catholic church to hear the mass, but the place was +jammed, and we did not stay long. Charlie and I then jumped into our +sleigh, and the great bells of the Kremlin and the neighboring churches +were booming all around. + + + THE PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL. + +We wended our way up the hill and pushed into the Patriarchal Cathedral +of Russia, where all the Tsars are crowned, and here we saw the Russian +mass. The crowd was so dense that it was impossible to penetrate more +than a few feet into the church, and we soon left. + + + THE RUSSIAN BATH. + +One evening last week we did the Russian bath. It is perfectly +delicious, a general steaming all over first, and then you are bodily +champooed by the careful attendant,—the soap suds being, so to speak, +whipped in with a bunch of rushes flourished round you,—and then recline +at your ease, as long as you please, and finally cool off with +differently moderated showers of water. + +We have made the acquaintance of a Mr. Arnoldi, who has a charming wife. +He is a great lover of horse flesh, and took us over a stable, where we +saw splendid specimens of the different types of the Russian horse, and +afterwards we went to the trotting track and saw the sports with their +fast trotters. The scene was not unlike Riverside Park at home, and very +interesting to me. They want to get up international races. + +We afterwards dined with Mr. A., quite _en famille_. + + + THE MAZOURKA. + +We have been to another party at the aunt’s of my lovely Miss M—, and I +again watched her going through the graceful slides of the mazourka. + +There are two public balls every night now during the holidays, +sometimes a masquerade at the Nobility Club or the Grand Opera, or again +a dance or concert at the German Club, and so on, but the masquerades, +after Paris, are tame. + +The holidays are much made of here, and every one celebrates them by +getting tipsy, for the Russian, besides his everlasting tea, also +manages to dispose of considerable _vodki_, the alcoholic drink of the +country. (Spelled _vodki_ and _vodka_, distilled from rye, also from +potatoes.) + +To a hard working Yankee it is odd, the slowness and want of ambition of +all. For instance, Sunday is a holiday, and the day before he prepares +himself for it, and the day after he gets sober, and as there is on the +average one fête day during the week, when the same game is tried, it +does not leave many days for work. + + + OFF TO ST. PETERSBURG. + +Thus you see the days slip along on golden wings, and your _flâneur_ +looks with horror on the bore of packing up his traps, but we may be off +on Saturday to St. Petersburg. I have your letter No. 11, with the +Boston gayeties. I will get you some nice postage stamps some time, but +for the present these will suffice. Accept, also, the photograph of +Chawls and myself _à la Russe_, with the Kremlin in the background, and +us in the front, done up in our _shubes_ and boots, and waiting the +approach of many bears. (See frontispiece.) + +Fear not for our ears and noses now, for although the thermometer keeps +down steadily in the region of “Niblo” (Meaning zero, an old joke of +First Lieutenant Peleg W. Blake of the Fifth Mass. Battery, who when +speaking of the weather always called zero “Niblo,”) we are much more +comfortable in the streets than we are at home, where it seems to be the +fashion to be cold always out of doors. + +The photographs of Moscow are the best in the world. (I had never seen +such beautifully glazed ones at that time.) We do not get much news here +about Americans, as there is no French paper in Moscow, and even if +there were there would be no time to read it, we are in such a whirl of +excitement. Going to bed at four gives you a short morning. + +[Illustration: + + THE STAIGG PORTRAIT. +] + +I read the President’s (Johnson’s) message with interest, and great +satisfaction in regard to everything except the internal politics of the +United States. How pleasant, too, is the report of the Treasury. People +here look upon our diminishing debt with perfect amazement. Indeed the +influence which our country is giving to the world is more perceptible +every day and very noticeable here. + +We are of course much interested in the great yacht race, and want +brother Tom to come over in the Spring, and give the graceful little +_Alice_ another wetting in the Channel. Tell him she must not go home in +May. I want to sail in her once in the summer. What a carnival there +will be in Paris, and how much nicer to be a “swell” in Moscow than an +individual in the former. + + Well, adieu. Nate. + + + FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON. + + + THE STAIGG PORTRAIT. + + Dec. 27, 1866. + +You can judge of my amazement, my excitement, on going up to the +drawing-room after dinner on Christmas Day, to find before my eyes a +portrait of you, my dear Nathan, gracefully standing with your arm +holding the bridle of your horse, and looking so like life that I really +started, reading the announcement, put on by Hattie:—“By Atlantic +Telegraph, St. Petersburg. A Merry Christmas!”—Why, I felt that it had +actually come from there! It is a charming picture. What a villain you +are! Of course it is not finished, and is to go back to have some +alterations. + +Oh you sly boy! Coming up from Lynn (Our summer home at the beach.) +every day to give me this delightful surprise! _I thank you._ + +We had a charming Christmas dinner, and, will you believe it? the +presents for the third time were so hid they had great difficulty in +finding them, and some were obliged to be told. + + + NEW YEAR’S DAY IN MOSCOW. + + Russ., January 2, 1867. + +I begin you this, Dear “Mum,” from Moscow, but I may finish it in St. +Petersburg. Children of chance, that we are, how dare we calculate on +even the events of a few days? With this moral question at the +beginning, I will tell you that we are still here, and have been through +various adventures. Among others was the dedication of a church in the +Russo Greek style, and the magnates of the city thought we had better +see it. I did not object, as a dinner formed an important feature. +Accordingly, one of the selectmen of Moscow routed us out of bed, and I +gave him audience in my _robe de nuit_, and after he had conversed some +time in Russ he thought matters would be expedited by an interpreter. I +soon discovered that his sleigh was at the door, and that he wanted us +to be off, so I hastened, and was ready,—Charlie following in our sleigh +with Curtin.—He wore a medal and his horse was a high stepper. We soon +reached the church, and had standing places of honor, _vide_ Moscow +_Gazette_ of the next day with our distinguished names in Russian +print,—for above three and a half hours, and we were not sorry to rattle +off to the good dinner, which the opulent merchant, who had given the +church, had had prepared for his guests. The lunch was stunning, +entirely _à la Russe_, with some little wrinkles I mean to remember, and +the _menu_ on very gorgeous frosted paper, and a photograph of the +church under each plate. We returned from our day’s work very much +satisfied. + +The society of this place is quite funny. We have got into the very +“swell” little clique of the town, the Faubourg Saint Beacon Street of +Moscow, and like the same set in our own blessed “Hub,” it is a close +oligarchy with an endless array of cousins. The other evening we saw a +most pretty phase of the holidays. About twenty young ladies and +cavaliers of this set, with one or two matrons, went round the town in +masquerade with fancy domino costumes, stopping at half a dozen +different houses, at each of which they would dance once, with a supper +later. Chawls and I went to two of the houses to see them and the effect +was stunning; a postillion rushing in first, and then the others +following in couples, Poles, Spaniards, and Tartars, Folly, a Cook, a +Baby and her Nurse, &c., and so on. The coachman and footman, even, were +in mask, to make the disguise as complete as possible, but we soon +discovered our friends. + +I think we will try it in Boston next winter. + +The society of the merchant families is quite another set, but as they +have the money now their entertainments are on a most gorgeous scale. + + + NEW YEAR’S DAY. + +After all how like people are in all countries. This is well shown by +yesterday, the Russian New Year’s Day. We got up a very “swell” trap,—a +trotter and a runner by his side,—and went about slaughtering all our +acquaintances. It was precisely the same as in New York, except that +they gave you no grub anywhere, nor wine, though we did see one +inebriate youth driving off. Every one always drives about the city and +you get into the state of being unable to walk ten steps. You wo’n’t do +it. Sleighs are very cheap, and the distances are very great, so that +you keep your sleigh about you as an indispensable companion, from +twelve noon until after midnight. The coachman follows you round like a +dog, merely going off to feed his horses some time in the afternoon. +With all this it is strange that the Russians never drive themselves, +and no matter how fine the horses of the gay youth of the city, and how +elegant his equipage, the coachman always drives. Perhaps this is +because horses are a necessity, not a luxury, and having to drive so +much every day you do not care to do it yourself. I think I, myself, +with all my fondness for horses, would soon be indisposed to drive in +Russia. + + + THE RUSSIAN GROOM. + +The “swell” groom here has a _chic_ quite his own, and totally different +from the London “tiger,” which has spread over the rest of the continent +and America. My “Tom,” with his neat tights and top boots, carefully +trimmed whiskers and square shoulders is very different from your +bearded Russian coachman, the stouter the better, with lozenged-shaped, +pin-cushion like, velvet hat, long tunic with a gorgeous colored sash +and big boots. They drive with both arms stretched out at full length, +and have four reins for a single pair of horses. + +Tuesday, p.m.: I will finish this off now and take it on with me to St. +Petersburg, tomorrow, to mail it there, as we have decided to change our +base, in fact, having slaughtered all the fair ones of Moscow, and +having left a good impression, it is much better to make our bows and +retire quickly. + +I have been skating today and yesterday with a most bright and +attractive young lady, the Princess G—— (Princess Julie Gagarine now for +years Madame la Princesse Ourousoff, one of the same great family +represented at the Races on the Newport beach in 1866.) a cousin of the +beautiful Miss M——. Being in mourning we have not seen her in society. +She goes to St. Petersburg in a few days where we shall meet her again. + +We go to our last party tonight. Private theatricals and a ball +afterwards. Last evening a _soirée musicale_ at the Martinoffs, and a +dance later at another house. + +We go to St. Petersburg to be quiet(?) as you imagine, and we shall +arrive just in time for the “Blessing of the Neva,” breakfast at the +Winter Palace, Review of Troops, etc., etc., and from now until Lent we +shall have all we want of gayety. + +Adieu, oh Moscow! with thy Kremlin and gilded turrets, thy fair +princesses, thy fast horses, thy caviar and thy mazourka. Fain would we +linger here, but the hand of time points onward, and the vague sensation +of joys now past, vibrates in the brain! + +I have some little packages for you and Hattie from Coz. Eliza, which +will I hope reach you safely some day. I am off now to bid her good bye. + + Nate. + + + FROM MY SISTER IN BOSTON. + + January 8, 1867. + +Your letter from St. Petersburg arrived by the same steamer that brought +Mr. Burgess and little Billy’s blue suit, for both of which many thanks. +I wish you could see the little man in the jacket and cap, he looks +awful cunning, and the color just suits his complexion. They are just +the right size, and all beholders say “How remarkable that a young man +like Mr. Appleton should know just what to get for a baby like that!” + +The worsted work for the old lady was also a great success. She thinks +it the funniest thing she ever saw. And all this page and not a word yet +about the picture! + + + THE STAIGG PORTRAIT. THE SURPRISE. + +... I took Elias (The old family servant.) into the secret, and he was +so important, and so excited with it that I never expected he would get +through waiting on table that dinner, without smashing something. You +know we got it into the house very quietly, during church time, and hid +it on the back piazza, and Elias got it up into the drawing-room while +we were eating dinner, and coming down made such telegraphic signals +that Erny (Ernest Longfellow) who was next me, said, “What has come over +Elias? he is winking and making such faces at you. There’s some immense +secret!” + +As I had not my “eyes” on it was unfortunately thrown away. When Mamma +did get up and saw it, she was fairly terrified, apparently thinking you +were there yourself in some incomprehensible way. I don’t know but she +will pull down “Rosalie” to have a place to hang it. Brother Tom takes a +great interest in it, and brings artists to see it, who mostly think it +Staigg’s best work.... Dear me. I have not told you about the piano we +are having constructed to match our book cases, and with Mr. Staigg’s +first sketch of you inserted in a panel,—truly lovely! + + + ON THE 11TH MY MOTHER WROTE:— + +Your brother Tom has just been in to read a letter from Charlie. He was +quite excited in hearing about Russia, and really wished he was with you +to enjoy something so new. He would have been a great addition, and +talked French and made everything as jolly as possible. He hopes that +you have made known that you were officers in the army and wounded men, +and I trust it is understood that C. A. L. is son of the “great poet.” + +Your letters stir us all up, and though this is not a regular writing +day, I could not resist telling you how much we enjoy hearing from you. + +The “presentation” must have been rather a trial, not speaking French +fluently. How T. G. A. would have rattled it off! He rather wonders that +he came home. Of course the yachting will take him out in the Spring. We +have now fine sleighing, and he is every day on the Brighton road, but +not a “fascinating hood” is to be seen; all the women with veils tied +tight over their faces. T. G. A. drives his pair and has some damsels +with him. + +Monday Eve: Little Billy (Curtis) came to see his Grandma this morning +in full French costume; his pretty blue coat and hat, and Astrachan fur. +It is lovely and very becoming to the little man. + +All are so charmed with your picture. It gives life and light to the old +house. I cannot bear to part with it, and I believe Staigg does not +consider it finished. + +I am glad you have nice quiet apartments, and are not at a hotel. Please +be moderate, and do not dash about and make yourself conspicuous. It is +foreign to the family name. + + + LETTER FROM GEO. B. SHATTUCK. + + “Boston. January 8, 1867. + + My dear Nathan. + +A visit to No. 39, a few days since, and the exhibition of your portrait +by Staigg, spurred me up to an undertaking which I have long been +proposing to myself, answering a letter which you wrote to me before +your departure and after mine from San Francisco, and which was +forwarded to me here.... I was much pleased with your picture, and +thought it an excellent likeness for the number of sittings I was told +you had. + +Of course, as is the duty of a good artist, he exerts his best effort +that your personal pulchritude may not suffer, and the war-horse, etc. +is rather in the style of General Washington. You ought to have had your +negro “Joe” brought into the picture holding the charger. The horse, as +well as I could judge from a short inspection, is well done, and +surprisingly so, if, as Mrs. Appleton told me, this is Staigg’s first +horse. I speak so at length as I suppose the thing to have been +completed since you left home.” + +[Illustration: + + ROSALIE. +] + + + ALLSTON’S ROSALIE. + +The picture of “Rosalie” by Washington Allston, mentioned in my sister’s +letter as hanging in the drawing-room at 39 Beacon street, and to which +the author addressed some exquisite verses, became mine after the death +of my father, at whose request it was painted. + +It was in 1835, that my half-sister, the wife of the poet Longfellow, +then Miss Frances Elizabeth Appleton, made a copy, which I now have in +her own handwriting, of the following verse which was added by Allston +some time after the original three verses were composed:— + + “So, at that dreamy hour of day + When the last lingering ray + Stops on the highest cloud to play, + So thought the gentle Rosalie, + As in her maiden reverie, + First fell the strain of him who stole + In music to her soul.” + +The original three verses are as follows:— + + “Oh! pour upon my soul again + That sad unearthly strain + That seems from other worlds to plain; + Thus falling, falling, from afar, + As if some melancholy star + Had mingled with her light her sighs, + And dropped them from the skies. + + · · · · · + + No—’tis not born of aught below, + That melting breath of wo + Which now doth o’er my spirit flow; + Waking the deeply-seated springs + Of silent joy; that round me flings + This nameless light—if light it be— + That veils the world I see. + + For every form around me wears + The hue of other spheres: + And something mixed of smiles and tears + Comes from the very air I breathe. + Oh, nothing, sure, the stars beneath + Can mold a sadness like to this— + So like angelic bliss.” —_Wa. Allston._ + +These three verses have the signature as given above, in the copy in my +possession. To the peculiar circumstances under which the picture was +painted, an allusion is made in a letter to my brother Tom in Paris, by +Mr. Tom Kemper Davis in Boston, a member of the legal profession with a +strong leaning toward literary pursuits. + + + THOMAS SULLY. + +“Sully, the artist,” he wrote, “is in town. I went with him yesterday +and bowed at the shrine of the divine ‘Rosalie’. Sully’s first +exclamation, after gazing some time at the picture, was,— + +‘Raphael and Titian combined!’ + +Allston, by the way, has in conversation with me frequently alluded to +your father’s purchase of this picture, and as I never heard him allude +before to any like transaction. The manner in which the thing was done +seems to have touched his heart.” + +When they went to see it, the picture hung in the drawing-room of our +old house, 39 Beacon street. That the artist Sully may have had a +personal interest in the “Rosalie,” was suggested to me by a letter from +the pen of a Washington correspondent of the New York _Daily Graphic_, +signed “Mary E. Nealy,” which I chanced to see. I, being then in London, +addressed a letter to this correspondent from 449 Strand, the Reading +Room and Exchange of Robert Bowles, dated October 26, 1875, in the +following words:— + +“I noticed in a recent number of the _Graphic_, a letter of yours from +Washington, in which you gave quite a long account of a collection of +pictures painted by Sully. My attention was attracted to it by what you +say of ‘Rosalie’, and the verses written by Allston, because I am the +owner of the painting of ‘Rosalie’, which Washington Allston painted, +and for which he wrote the verses. + +This picture was painted for my late father and hung by the direction of +Allston himself at our house, where it has remained many years, the +admiration of all. Should you ever go to Boston, I think it will give +you pleasure to see it. + +I always supposed that the name was merely a fancy one, but what you say +of Allston’s intimacy with Sully and his family, makes me believe that +quite probably the name was taken from one of Sully’s daughters, and as +such it may even be a sort of portrait of her.” + +I closed by asking for further information in regard to the original of +the picture, and received the following reply:— + + + MARY E. NEALY TO N. A. + + 618 Sixth Street, Washington City, D. C. + Nov. 18, 1875. + + Your letter of enquiry in regard to the portrait of “Rosalie” by + Allston was duly received. Colonel Wheeler does not know about it, and + Mrs. Wheeler, formerly Ellen Sully, being married before her sister + Rosalie was grown, does not _know_ that the verses were inspired by + her sister, but thinks it highly probable, as Mr. Allston admired her + very much. She was very beautiful, as well as talented, but died at an + early age. Mrs. Wheeler could tell you certainly about your picture if + she could see a photograph of it. + + I will be happy to call and see the picture if I ever go to Boston, + and thank you kindly for the privilege and the invitation. I have been + intensely interested in his pictures, and think that few artists ever + created more lovely female heads. I have an old annual called _The + Gift_, published in Philadelphia, in 1842. On the title page is a + lovely vignette head, which Col. Wheeler says is Rosalie Sully. If I + could send it to you without spoiling my book I would do so. But the + more simple way would be for you to photograph your painting. + + P. S. This is a handsome and youthful brunette, with a spirited yet + most lovely and womanly expression. Her hand supports her head, and + the dark rich curls fall carelessly about her face. Sully painted his + daughters in many positions and in various characters, and many female + heads of his, supposed to be imaginary, are portraits of his own loved + ones. + +_The Gift_, edition of 1842, is in the Boston Athenæum Library. The +second picture on the title page really does look like “Rosalie” but +younger. + +Allston died in Cambridge, Mass., July 9, 1843. Mrs. Jameson, the +English author, in her Memoir of Washington Allston, January 1, 1844, +gives the following description:— + + “‘Rosalie Listening to Music.’ The figure of a young girl, life-size + and three-quarters. She has been reading. The hand which holds the + book has dropped: the other is pressed on her bosom. The head a little + raised. Rapt, yet melancholy attention in the opening eyes and parted + lips. The coloring deep, delicate, rich. + + When I first saw this picture, in the drawing-room of Mr. Appleton of + Boston, I had never seen Allston, did not even recollect his name. It + at once so captivated my attention, that I could not take my eyes from + it, even though one who might well have sat for a Rosalie was at my + side. I thought I had never beheld such a _countenance_, except in + some of the female heads of Titian or Palma. Yet the face was not what + would be termed _beautiful_; and oh, how far from the sentimental, + ringletted prettiness of our fashionable painters! + + When I afterwards asked Mr. Allston whether his poem of ‘Rosalie’ had + suggested the picture, or the picture the stanzas, he replied, that, + ‘as well as he could recollect, the conception of the poem and of the + picture had been simultaneous in his mind.’ He received for this + picture 1,200 dollars, about £250.” + +The “Rosalie” was exhibited at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition in +1876, and a lithograph was published by James R. Osgood & Co., Boston, +in a collection entitled “Massachusetts Artists’ Centennial Album, +1876.” The description is as follows:— + + “This picture was painted in 1835. It represents a beautiful girl + seated, facing the spectator, with one hand upon her bosom, and the + fingers of the other between the leaves of a red book which she holds + upon one knee. A piece of dark-brown drapery thrown across the lap + nearly hides the blue of the skirt. The waist of the dress is of gray, + with white sleeves, and is bound to the form by a yellow girdle. The + background is a dull red curtain with a gray column at the left. The + picture is owned by Mr. Nathan Appleton. The illustration is a + heliotype made from the original.” + +I loaned it for some years to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and in +1893, it was exhibited at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. I +afterward sold it to my brother W. S. Appleton, and it is now at 462 +Beacon Street, Boston. + + + MY BROTHER TOM AND ALLSTON. + LETTER FROM T. G. A. TO MRS. SAMUEL APPLETON. + + 31st August, 1844. + Ashby de la Zouch. + +I have been a week with Lady S. and her husband Mr. Smith Wright, not +far from here. Lady S. is famous for her taste in flowers. Her +conservatory is superb, and her white “yackas” unrivalled. She has a +sister like “_ma chere Mire_” in Miss Bremer, with a wonderful face for +energy. She is 87, but quick as a girl, a very clever botanist as well, +and corresponding with all the best botanists in England. I drove and +rode and walked over the country; magnetized a little, and drew a +little, and so the hours flew. The Everetts were there a bit, and then +flew to Scotland. To show how kind a man Mr. Smith Wright is,—he it was +at Rome who got the Protestant burial ground enclosed, and did away with +the burial by torchlight of old time. He is president of the Mechanics’ +Institute at Nottingham. I shall hope to see these excellent friends +again. I am the first American who ever visited them. + +Yesterday Lady S. drove me to Sir George Beaumont’s, wishing herself to +see Allston’s picture, I had so interested her in him. On the way there +she told me how odd a person the present Sir George was,—the nephew of +the famous art patron,—He received us at his superb porch in a blouse, +with a funny white hat on, and was in great spirits to see us.... He +took us over the fine house, a miracle of taste, as was everything of +his uncle’s, and at length into a glass conservatory-like gallery he had +built to hold the over abounding pictures. Here were all the first good +things of Wilkie, Leslie, etc., which Sir George bought to encourage the +young artists, but Sir G.’s own sketches were as interesting as any, and +as good. The last one he was upon when he fell with apoplexy was +peculiarly so. It represented boys playing over water upon a fallen +tree, and every figure was in danger. Sir G. considered this very +curious, so anticipating his own situation. + +I mentioned Allston. He jumped. “I’ll show you a picture of his,”—and he +ran for the key. It is in a lovely gray stone church, close to the +house, a sort of guardian angel to the place. + +Allston’s picture is the only one in the church. It is the one he often +spoke to me about. It is ill placed, and ill lit, but wonderfully fine. +An angel in white with sky blue scarf fluttering, points, while standing +on the steps, to the prison door with a radiant hand, while Peter lifts +a majestic face, heavy with sleep, upon the Angelus from between his +bent and drowsy guards. + +There is a huge _patine_ of moonlight breaking through the grates of the +prison above.... The angel’s hair is nut brown and a little too pretty +for so sacred a subject. It reminded me of “Rosalie’s” which is womanly, +not angelic. The figures are life size and the picture one of Allston’s +fine ones tho’ not equal to the “Jeremiah,” “Miriam” or “Balshazzar.” + +We spent hours in wandering through the grounds.... + +Oh! the dairy, you should see that! An arched alcove, all _tiles_ above +and below, rows of huge cream bowls standing upon marble slabs, and a +fountain coolly splashing from an antique mask at one end. This gem of a +dairy was dead Lady Beaumont’s doing. + +There were poems of Wordsworth cut in stone about the walks. He was a +great friend of the former Sir George, and I saw a stone seat, the rock +cut, in which he wrote many of his poems. When one thinks of this lovely +place and the great men, Sir George, Allston, Wordsworth, and Beaumont +and Fletcher,—this is one of the family,—perhaps Shakespeare, one must +allow this to be almost unmatched as a country seat. + +On page 67, of brother Tom’s volume of poems entitled “Faded Leaves,” in +one addressed to Allston after seeing his “Peter delivered from Prison” +at Colcorton Hall, in Wordsworth’s winter garden, may be found the +following stanzas:— + + “A portion of thy soul divine + Is fitly shrined in yon meek aisle + Where arching roofs in prayer incline, + And chasten all the silent pile. + + · · · · · + + Ah! yes, dear Allston, from the bars + And dungeon of this mortal sphere, + At length thy spirit seeks the stars, + Free in their happier atmosphere.” + + + FROM MY MOTHER AT BOSTON. + + “February 24, 1867. + +I do think you are having splendid times. The last princess seems to be +the loveliest. And then the furs, and the slippers, and the table +covers, and the malachite! Oh, what a boy! + +Mr. Sayles (Henry Sayles) and Ned Brown (Edward Ingersol Brown) called +to see me and were so much pleased with your picture. (Staigg portrait.) + +They were told you _really sent_ a telegram from St. Petersburg on +Christmas Day, and thought it so like you to do it. W. S. A. is in +pursuit of a second pair for his four-in-hand. I do not approve so much +display.” + +In another letter my mother observes parenthetically:—“You must remember +I am an old lady and belong to the old school of manners and propriety, +which has sadly changed since my day.” + +[Illustration: + + THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA. ILL. LONDON NEWS. +] + + + + + CHAPTER SIXTH. + ST. PETERSBURG. THE NEVA. NOVGOROD. POLAND. + + “We look into each other’s eyes, + And see a friendly peace which says, + While on the snowy Cossack flies, + ‘Rave ye without, here Quiet stays.’ + + This silent, unexpressed delight + Glows brighter so severely set: + Heart-warm against the stormy white, + The Rose of Joy burns warmer yet.” + —_Thomas Gold Appleton_ + _A Snow Storm_, Jan. 17, 1867. + + + THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA. + + St. Petersburg, Jan’y 20, 1867. + + My dear Mama. + +Here we are back at the capital, where we were most enthusiastically +received by our hostess Madame Octavie, who expressed great joy at +seeing her “little Americans” safely returned, and installed us into our +old apartments. + +Your letters came the next day, with accounts of Christmas festivities +at home, and the prospective party for New Year. + +I am so glad that the portrait _à la militaire_ has been accomplished +enough to show what it is, and that the likeness is good, and the whole +thing gives pleasure. I rather pride myself upon it, for the idea of the +composition and pose was quite my own, and the secrecy with which it has +all been done is commendable. + +Driving down the Nevski from the Moscow station St. Petersburg looked +_so_ funny, not in the least like a Russian city, but a great, sprawling +capital, and they tell us it is not gay here at all, especially after +Moscow. No balls at Court as yet, as the government is not very rich +just now, and after the tremendous expenses of entertaining our fleet +last summer, and later all the gorgeous display connected with the +wedding of the Tsarevitch, they are really trying to economize a bit. +This is good theoretically, but not for us individually, and I hope we +shall see one big ball at the Winter Palace. + +The morning after our return was the day of the ceremony of the baptism +of the Neva, which the Emperor attends. We received invitations to the +Palace to go with the Diplomatic Corps, and although we could not see +much of the performance outside,—and how the poor fellows, Tsar, +priests, and “strikers” have to suffer with uncovered heads in the +bitter cold,—we got a very good idea of the male portion of the Russian +court in the Palace, and afterwards enjoyed an excellent breakfast. It +was quite striking to see us, the only two civilians in the big throng +of officers, courtiers and diplomats, and it was a pleasant feeling that +the grandeur of America does not go in for outside display. + +We dined yesterday at the English Club with Curtin, the best one in the +city, and English only in name, and later played Russian nine-pins with +a party of officers. + +I skated, also, on the Neva Club grounds, which have been carefully +arranged during our absence, and it was very jolly there, with music and +all the swells of the city. The costumes are very effective, and add +much to the brilliancy of the scene, those of the gentlemen being quite +as elaborate as of the ladies, velvet jackets and tight fitting tunics +trimmed with fur and slashed _à la Polenaise_, with Knickerbockers and +leggings. It is strange that if a gentleman with us should attempt to +wear such a costume, elegant, comfortable, and appropriate for the ice, +he would be set down as a snob. The democratic principle of every one +always wearing the same style of raiment on all occasions may, perhaps, +be good, but it certainly takes away much from the beauty of any +assemblage of human beings. + +The ladies were much as in New York or Jamaica Pond, with the addition +of the omnipresent _basilisk_ or hood, made of different colored cloth, +and trimmed with gold or silver braid. We mean to bring several of them +home, as there is nothing prettier or more genuinely Russian here to +take away, and for a lady to wear sleigh-riding they are perfect. I hope +to see some of my own on the Brighton road next winter. + +Today was held the first race of the season on the river, but it was so +very cold that it was not particularly amusing to witness. The horses +look fine, parading about covered with Persian blankets. Monday morning. +Very early! We start in a few minutes on an excursion of two or three +days to Novgorod the Great, once the capital of Russia, and I have just +time to seal this up without finishing it. + + Therefore in haste, Nathan. + + + FOX’S MISSION TO RUSSIA. + +The reference in my letter to our fleet and its presence in Russia is to +Fox’s mission. On the 16th of May, 1866, the President of the United +States, Andrew Johnson, signed a joint resolution passed by Congress, +congratulating the twenty million serfs upon the providential escape +from assassination of the Emperor Alexander II., by the hand of an enemy +of emancipation, and in order to give additional significance to the +act, Congress selected the Hon. Gustavus Vasa Fox, assistant secretary +of the navy during the entire period of the war for the Preservation of +the Union, to perform the delicate mission of carrying this resolution +to the Emperor of Russia. He was sent in the two turreted monitor +_Miantonomoh_, a class of vessel which had never before crossed the +Atlantic, and the _Augusta_ and _Ashuelot_, two wooden men-of-war, +accompanied the _Miantonomoh_. + +August 6 (July 23) 1866, the fleet arrived in the harbor of Cronstadt, +on the 17th the Tsar sent the address acknowledging the visit of Mr. +Fox, and on Saturday, September 15 (3d) Mr. Fox left Saint Petersburg, +after a farewell breakfast given on the Russian yacht _Rurik_ at which +Lieutenant General Greig said in a speech while presenting a medal +struck in memory of the enfranchisement of the peasants:— + +“He will see on it the likeness of our blessed sovereign, and the effigy +of a nobleman and of a peasant.” + +A narrative of this mission to Russia from the Journal and Notes of J. +F. Loubat (Duc deLoubat) was published in 1873, and presented to me in +New York, by the author, September 28th of the same year. + + + THE CEREMONY OF BLESSING THE WATERS. + +In some notes made in February, 1879, and printed in the Boston +_Advertiser_ under the title “_Outre Mer_,” I referred to the occasion +of the annual benediction of the Neva, a rite of the Orthodox Church +commemorative of the baptism of the Saviour, when the Tsar takes his +position in an open chapel built out on the quay, and the ice below +having been broken the Metropolitan blesses the waters and the cross is +dipped therein three times:— + +“It takes place just opposite the Winter Palace, and all the guests +witness it comfortably from the windows of one of the large rooms of the +palace, while the Tsar and the priests and those who actually +participate in it have to go out with bare heads in the cold and take +some of the water from the frozen Neva, which they can only get through +a hole made in the ice. It is principally a religious service, with +rites performed upon a handsome platform, with a canopy above, erected +for it between the palace and the water. It does not last long, and in +this instance the Emperor and his suite might well have been glad to get +out of the intense cold when it was over. + +We had some difficulty that day, my companion and myself, in getting up +to the door of the Winter Palace. We had our cards of invitation all +correct, indicating where we should go, and we supposed that our +_invostchik_, or the driver of the sleigh we used every day, understood +it perfectly. But it seems he did not, and we were stopped by a mounted +soldier to whom we could not talk a word, while we brandished the card +before him. But this did not work, and we had to turn back. We were at +our wits’ ends, determined if possible not to miss the sight, and I +suggested that we should drive at once to the United States Minister’s +residence, General Clay, to see if we could not find his servant, or +some one who would act as pilot. On the road we met our commissionaire +whom we had dismissed at the hotel, thinking we should not need him, and +took him in front with the driver. + + + “A FRIEND AT COURT.” + +As it was then rather late we drove up to the nearest door of the +palace, but not the one designated for us to enter on the card. There we +met one of the young officers of the imperial household whose +acquaintance we had made at our regular presentation to the Tsar some +weeks before, and, explaining to him our dilemma he said it was all +right, and put us in charge of a _chasseur_, who was to conduct us to +our proper places. He was a gorgeously dressed fellow, with a very tall +plume in his hat, and slowly took us along through the endless _salons_ +of the building, which were filled with people,—ladies in the +galleries,—and at length reached the room set apart for the Diplomatic +Corps and distinguished strangers who happened to be in St. Petersburg, +where we had a view of the ceremonies.” + + + A COUSINLY VIEW. + FROM MY COUSIN AT MOSCOW TO MY MOTHER. + + Moscow, January 22, 1867. + + My dear Cousin. + +About a month ago, as I was standing at the window, I saw two gentlemen +stop at our door, with very English faces as I thought. I was surprised, +for I expected no visitors from abroad, but how much greater was my +surprise when the two gentlemen were introduced as Mr. Appleton and Mr. +Longfellow. + +You may well imagine my joy at seeing some of my American relations at +last. Their stay in Moscow was for me a perfect enjoyment. I had such +pleasure in seeing them, and saw them as often as was possible, for they +had so many invitations from all sides that they could hardly find time +to answer them all: they went very much among the nobility. + +Nathan admired the Russian ladies much and teased me all the time by +saying he would marry a Russian Princess or a Polish countess. I said I +would not acknowledge him after that, he must remain constant to the +American beauties. He left Moscow, however, with the firm intention of +falling desperately in love with the first fairy princess he met in St. +Petersburg. I trust, however, that the 30 degrees of frost we have at +the present moment will freeze his heart so as not to admit any warmer +feeling into it, and prevent melting away those he brought with him from +America. + +You may well think, dear cousin, how much Nathan and Charles had to tell +us about you all, and it seems as if since I know them the ocean has +disappeared between us, and we are brought nearer to each other. How +much I should like to see you and know you all, and always will regret +not to have gone over to Boston during the three months I stayed in +Ostend, some twelve years ago. I should have then seen our dear +Grandmamma, let me call her thus, dear cousin, for she was to me more +than ever an aunt could be. + +How much I value the beautiful pin you sent me is needless to say. +Receive my warmest and sincerest thanks for this kind attention, and +believe me, dear cousin, that I shall always wear the pin, so dear to +me, in remembrance of our dear Grandmamma and of yourself. + +How do you like Nathan’s and Charles’s photograph in their furs? (See +frontispiece.) We admire it much, and I claimed one for my album. + +Kiss the dear baby for me. I sent him a pair of little red Russian +boots, which I hope he will be able to wear by the time they reach him. + +Good bye, dear cousin, write to me sometimes, and tell me something +about our travellers that interest me much. My husband begs to be kindly +remembered to you and your dear family. + + Most affectionately, + Eliza Carnatz. + + + NOVGOROD. + TO MY MOTHER. + + Saint Petersburg, + January 28, 1867. + + _Ma chère Maman._ + +Our little trip to Novgorod was most successful. We went down the +railroad about 70 miles, to Tchudova, and there took the _troikas_ and +the funniest vehicle imaginable, in which you lie down on the hay and +are covered up with felt and skins. We made our forty-five miles in a +few hours, arriving at the town in time for supper and bed. + +The next morning we set about seeing the sights of the place, which are +very few, the old church of St. Sophia and the modern monument +celebrating the 1000th anniversary of Russia. + +What a quaint old place, with its Kremlin, and its white yellow +churches, and everything so Russian! + +[Illustration: + + THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE. +] + +I found a fascinating antiquary, who would have driven Billy crazy, in +his gown and skull cap. He had a book store in his house, with +curiosities and minerals, and I bought a Russian missal of the 14th +century (I afterwards gave it to the Boston Public Library.) and a few +coins and odds and ends. + +[Illustration: + + SKATING IN THE YOUSOUPOFF GARDEN. +] + + + THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE. + +We made the journey home by night, with the mercury near zero, and cold +enough it was. I had two pairs of gloves on, and mittens over them, and +was just comfortable. We rattled along over the snow, with a bright +moon, and clear, cold stars, stopping now and then at wayside inns to +drink tea and warm up. + +Nothing have we done more Russ than our midnight drive from Novgorod. + +Yesterday we dined with the Count Besborodko, the one who owns the +“swell” palace I mentioned in a previous letter. The dinner was good, +the company gay, the Countess charming, and never in my life was I so +_en train_ to speak French easily. I surprised myself. We came home +early, changed our dress, and went for a little while to the fête of the +Yacht Club Skating ground, which was brilliantly illuminated with +lanterns, grottoes of ice with Bengal lights thrown upon them, stuffed +bears, pretty toilettes, etc. etc.—music. + + + ISLA. + +But even this was not enough for the evening, so off we go to Isla, a +café, theatre, skating ground combined, a few miles into the country, +where there are life size statues made of ice in the garden. + +Shall we go to the _bal masqué_ at the Opera House? No, it will hardly +pay to put on our funereals twice the same evening, so go to bed +quietly, and good night! + +Since my last return here I have been making many purchases preparatory +to leaving the place. + +Your beautiful sables have been selected, paid for and packed up, and I +hope they will come home in safety. + + + MY CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM. + + “‘Brave in battle,’ ‘eloquent in assembly,’ are great titles in + Circassia. But he who is the ‘most hospitable’ wears the brightest + crown of all.... A Circassian is always a Circassian.” + + —_Colonel Richard Henry Savage._ + + “A land of the sword and spear, of the chase and mighty + woodcraft—Circassia.” + + —_R. H. S._ 1876. + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER CONTINUED. + +I have got Master Will a Circassian overcoat for winter, and myself a +Circassian uniform, for fancy balls at home, very handsome and effective +it is too. Charlie has had a Russian dress made for the same object. I +have picked up in the Bazaar some nice things in the way of +arms,—pistols, daggers and swords, and am looking for some chain armor. +Today I bought all the malachite I want, a few pretty pieces only. My +Russian harness has come, and very nice it is, so light and graceful. +Look out for me on the avenue next summer crying “_berages_,” Russian +for “Look out!” “Take care!” + +I have bought you a lovely Persian table cloth and myself a cover for an +easy chair for smoking. + +[Illustration: + + CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM. +] + +We went the other evening to see the Davenport Brothers, who are here +now, and as luck would have it I was drawn by lot to tie one of them in +the box. Funny that way out in Russia they should be tied up by a fellow +countryman. There was quite a party of us Americans there, and we +chatted with them after the performance. It was very good and just what +I have often seen. + +29th. Morning:—I have just received a big packet of letters; among them +one from Georgie Shattuck. He gives me a very good idea of just what is +going on in Boston. + +Last eve we were again at the Opera, in the Pierces’ box. The Barber of +Seville—I have often heard it—with an ugly prima-donna. Tonight we go +first to a ballet, “Meteora,” and after to a ball at Lady Buchanan’s the +English ambassadress, and, perhaps, at two o’clock, to a costume ball at +one of the Clubs. Saturday next is my birthday, and I am to give a +gentlemen’s dinner to Russians and Americans. + +I have many things here which are not completed, and I want all my +purchases well packed up and directed, before I leave the place, and, +try as hard as you please, it is difficult to accomplish much each day. + +We made the acquaintance a few days past of the Souworoff family, the +descendants of the great old fighter whose sabre rang all over Europe. +The young princess was very nice and jolly, and did not like it that her +mother would not let her skate and flirt. The old party was eminently +proper and conservative in all her ideas, and reminded me of several +ladies in Boston I might perhaps mention. + +We passed one evening last week quietly with Mr. Prince, as he was very +desirous we should. What are you going to do this summer? Will quiet +Lynn content you, or is it Niagara, Saratoga, or Newport? Go in for a +house there, and I will come home by the first of August, in time for +the season. I hear the Americans are cutting great rigs in Paris. Thank +Mr. Burgess for me for the arrival of the package. Breakfast being +ready, 12 m., I will say in the last words of many French comedies, “à +table”. + + Nate. + + + THE COSTUME BALL AT DELMONICO’S. + + “Send me a dream tonight, + A dream of the boy-time days, + Stop for me the shuttle of Time + That ever so swiftly plays— + A dream of the other days, + When the sky was ever bright— + Unravel the warp and woof of years— + Send me a dream tonight.” + —_Baltimore American_, April, 1900. + +From a journal of a visit to New York and Philadelphia, made in March +and April, 1875, I extract the following written in my den, 788 +Broadway, Room 16, New York, April 11th:— + +“Since I left Boston, nearly three weeks ago, I have been through some +such interesting experiences that I must certainly record them in my +diary. But it is no easy thing to catch them as they go by, so rapid a +life do we lead in the great cities and so full of movement is the time, +still, I will try.” + +The event of the season among the few hundred persons who make up the +fashionables of New York society, was the _Bal Costumé_ given at +Delmonico’s by thirty gentlemen on Easter Monday, March 29, 1875. + +I was invited to take part in the Oriental Quadrille gotten up by Miss +Minnie Stevens (Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Paran Stevens, and afterwards +wife of Arthur Henry Fitzroy Paget.) as I had a fine Circassian +officer’s dress, which I had had made years ago in Saint Petersburg, +just for occasions of the kind. + +The Sunday before the ball I dined at Mr. S. L. M. Barlow’s, No. 1 +Madison Avenue, as my partner in the quadrille was to be Miss Barlow, +and it was a kind attention on their part to invite me to dinner. + +The other guests were Mr. Manton Marble and Mr. Hurlburt of the New York +_World_, one of the organs of the Democratic party. These gentlemen, +with Messrs. Barlow, Belmont and others, were very intimate, and all +leading spirits of the Manhattan Club. + +After dessert, I took occasion to say, in a conversation in which some +of the leaders were being discussed, that the Democratic party to +succeed must get rid of many of its old planks, which would not support +any one today; that there were plenty of young fellows like myself and +others, who had been in the war, and were now growing up to take part in +public matters, who could not, and would not, place confidence in the +men whose record had been such as that of the leaders of the Northern +Democrats, the last fifteen years. + +But how I have departed from the ball! + +Instead of describing it particularly I insert here a drawing and notice +of it from Frank Leslie’s paper, also the card of invitation, etc. (The +illustration represented the ball room with the ball in progress, +showing many of the finest costumes.) + +The invitation was for a _Bal Costumé—costume de rigueur_,—signed by H. +S. Fearing, secretary, and the time was nine o’clock. The reverse of the +card bore the names of twenty-eight gentlemen; among them August +Belmont, W. W. Astor, and A. Thorndike Rice. + +The representative of _Frank Leslie’s_ said in his report:— + + “All that bright flowers, perfumed air, sweet music, flashing + diamonds, manly beauty, female loveliness, elegant costumes, and grace + and refinement could contribute to such a scene, were found there.... + One of the features of the evening was an Eastern quadrille of which + Miss Stevens of Fifth Avenue was queen. The costumes of the eight + forming the set were superb!” + +The note from Miss Minnie Stevens to me with regard to the ball, was as +follows:— + + “I write you some time ahead to know if it is possible for you to be + in New York a week from Monday, that is to say, the Monday before the + ball. We have arranged to dance the quadrille at our place on that + evening, for you have no idea how little any one knows about dancing + it, and, as the audience will be large, it would be very mortifying to + make several mistakes. As there is to be a procession formed, we have + also to know our partners and our places. I hope you will be able to + get here for the rehearsal on Monday the 22d as I would like all the + sixteen to come together. I am in despair about my dress, it is so + difficult to get up. Hoping soon to have the pleasure of seeing you, + + I am sincerely yours, + Minnie Stevens.” + +This was the handsomest ball of the kind I ever saw, as nearly all the +costumes were remarkable for richness, and few or none of them had a +cheap or tawdry look. The march in of all of us who took part in the +opening quadrille, was a brilliant sight. + +Before going to it I went to show myself off in costume at the +Appletons’, 3 Madison Avenue, and also at the Beckwiths’ on Fifth Avenue +and 18th Street, whence I escorted Miss Helen Beckwith (Now Mrs. Dudley +Leigh.) in the dress of a Circassian slave across the street to the +Belmonts’, where there was a large reception, for those in costume +particularly, for the benefit of the invalid daughter who could not go +to the ball, but naturally wanted to see the people and the dresses. I +was glad to have the chance of paying a call at the house. Mrs. Belmont +looked remarkably well, and her other daughter (Now Mrs. Samuel S. +Howland.) too, as pretty as possible in Pompadour costume. + +At the ball I sat at a supper table with Mrs. Strong,—née +Ruggles,—chatting and looking at the different persons as they passed +by; also, with Mrs. General Barlow née Shaw. This was a quiet and +comfortable way of enjoying the fête. Then I danced the “_cotillon_” +with Mrs. Kemys—the cotillon which was led by Jimmy Otis with all the +animation of twenty years before. + +Strolling to my den through 14th street and Broadway, just as the day +was dawning, I got into bed, well tired, a little before six o’clock. + + + FROM MISS STEVENS ON RECEIPT OF THE PHOTOGRAPH, 1877. + + “So many thanks for the charming photograph just received. It was very + kind of you to have remembered me, and so justly divined my wish. + + The ‘Circassian’ shall join its companions in the album of the + oriental quadrille. We are going to England some time this spring, but + I hope only to return for the summer at dear old Newport, which we all + must acknowledge has no rivals.” + + + THE LOOM OF THE EAST. + +I wore my Circassian costume again at my brother’s house, 10 +Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, at the meeting of the Bric-a-Brac Club, +January 17th, 1877, when I read his paper on “The Loom of the East” +(Fifth chapter of “Windfalls” by Thomas Gold Appleton, author of “A +Sheaf of Papers,” “A Nile Journal,” “Syrian Sunshine” etc.) my brother +suffering from a fall at the time. + + + MY TWENTY-FOURTH BIRTHDAY. + FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, SUNDAY, FEB. 3, 1867. + +“Your birthday (February 2d) was not forgotten, and as I sat at my +lonely meal, I could only wish you, my boy, many years of happiness,—not +the giddy enjoyment of the present hour, but solid days of reality, when +the heart shall be satisfied, and all this fascination of travel and +society shall have lost some of its freshness, and you will not care for +a ‘spike’ team, or a ‘four-in-hand’.” + + + THE LAST LETTER FROM RUSSIA IN ’67. + + St. Petersburg, February 3, 1867. + +Yes, Mamma, it is here. We are off tomorrow for Warsaw. We leave this +delightful place, with its cold climate and its warm hearts. Willingly +would I linger here a week or two more, but Charles is resolute, and has +been saying for the last few days that he _will_ go tomorrow, and can’t +be stopped. + +Our boxes are packed, our bills paid, and as it would be quite +impossible to find a time when we would not like to stay longer, perhaps +it is as well to go now as ever. + + + “20 AND 30 BELOW.” + +It is mild today, but the four days before have been such cold as I +never experienced; the mercury being all the time between twenty and +thirty below the zero of Fahrenheit. In fact the people here say they +have not had such a snap for years. We were fortunate not to get frozen, +for our _isvoschik_ was in a continued state of freeze,—which he did not +seem to mind,—notwithstanding the neckkerchief and mittens we gave him. + +The intense cold interferes little with your life, and wrapped up in our +_shubes_ we spend the day calling or shopping, or by night go from +ballet to ball till late in the morning. They have huge fires built in +front of the Opera House, and the Winter Palace, for the coachmen to +keep warm. + + + RUSSIAN FOOTMEN. + +The life of a footman here is odd enough. Their principal duty is to +look after the cloaks and overshoes of their masters and mistresses, and +they follow them about all day and night, sitting and sleeping in the +entries of private houses during a visit and the duration of a ball, and +in the foyer of the theatre for the entire performance of the opera or +play. + +The carriages, too, are always drawn up in line at the theatre or ball, +and stay there all night instead of going home and returning at a +certain hour. What would the tender coachmen and hackmen of Boston say +to that, who do not like to wait half an hour? + +This is strange, when it is so cold, especially for the horses, but they +are never clipped, and the men are very thickly dressed. + +At all the “swell” houses they have an impressive flunkey in the entry, +with a huge knobbed stick like a drum major or beadle, dressed in +gorgeous livery, a red sash a foot wide and covered with embroidered +black, double-headed eagles. All he does is to open and shut the front +door. In fact, at all houses, shops, and hotels, they have a porter, +generally an old soldier covered with medals, to take off and put on +overcoats and boots and goloshes. + +Every house in Russia is double windowed and treble doored, and between +the two panes of the windows there are artificial flowers. + +The houses are too hot, and the air bad, so that they use incense +everywhere in the country. + + + LADY BUCHANAN’S BALL. + +The ball at the British embassy was very good, and we were introduced to +the prettiest girl in the city, the little Countess Apraxine. We met, +also, a charming young lady, the Princess Ourousoff, a cousin of my +friend at Newport last summer. + +Today we have been lunching at the Prince Galitzine’s, with a crowd of +jolly young dogs; among them the son of the celebrated Gortschakoff. + + + TSARSKOË SELO. + +We passed one day last week at Tsarskoë Selo, visiting the palace, a +summer residence of the Emperor; also, the arsenal with splendid armor, +and the imperial dairy, where we ate cheese and drank imperial milk. We +afterwards dined with Gen. Gogol, the commander of the department, who +was very strong on the _entente cordiale_ between us, with a most +healthy detestation of England. He was another good specimen of that +well-known type of humanity, the Russian general. + +[Illustration: + + SLEDGE DRAWN BY REINDEER. +] + +The Palace was the best I ever saw, they being generally cold, +cheerless, all alike, and a bore, but this looked like a habitable +place, with a blue and silver boudoir, a room entirely made of Japan +wood, with panels, pictures, furniture, all Japanese; one room papered +with amber, and at last a Persian smoking room, small and cozy, filled +with bits of armor and pipes, divans, and a tiny fountain sunk in the +middle of the room. + +I have been doing up sights rapidly, preparatory to leaving; for +instance, the Admiralty, where an officer showed us all the models, +interesting to Charles, especially the Yankee cutters; the Academy of +Fine Arts from which, however, the best paintings have already been sent +to Paris. (For the Exposition.) I wanted to get a fair idea of the +Russian school, as it is now very little known out of the country, but +headed by Zitchy, a genius. I have photographs which will give you an +idea of his talent. + +The Imperial Library one day I slaughtered, well repaying a visit, but +finally, today, we gave a hurried half-hour to a last, lingering gaze at +the treasures in the Hermitage. + + + A DRIVE WITH REINDEER. + +Yesterday, in all the cold, we took a five minute drive in a sledge +drawn by three reindeer on the Neva, just to say we had done it. + +Midnight and after:—I take up my festive quill for the last time in +Petersburg, to finish a family epistle. + +We have been to see our last ballet tonight, and then out to Tivoli, a +restaurant in the suburbs of the city, with a “swell” skating pond under +glass. We have been meaning to see the place for a long while, but have +not accomplished it before our last eve. + +We have our government permission to leave the country, and nothing now +remains for us to do but gracefully take off our hats and give a parting +kiss to Russia. + + Nate. + +Please see that all my military traps are safely returned from the +studio of Staigg,—sword, bridle, jacket, belt, etc. Ask T. G. A. to +write me his opinion of the picture. + + + GAS-LIGHTING IN MOSCOW. + FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, FEB. 10, 1867. + +“Did you witness the lighting of Moscow with gas? It must have been a +great occasion from the newspaper accounts. It seems strange it should +not have been done before this. + + + GIFTS TO THE SOUTH. + +Mr. George Peabody has made a munificent gift to the country of +$1,500,000 for educational purposes in the South, so that I am sure the +North may feel relieved of all responsibility. + +I read in this evening’s _Transcript_, that the largest room in the +world is in St. Petersburg, did you see it? Twenty thousand wax tapers +are required to light it properly. + +[Illustration: + + DROSKY. +] + +It is simply ridiculous the way people are to be off, there will be +eight or nine vacant houses at Nahant.” + +Later, in a letter dated March 31, 1867, my mother mentioned the gift of +100,000 volumes of school books, which the New York Appleton firm had +added to the educational gift of Mr. Peabody. + + + “POOR POLAND.” + + “Good Kosciusko! thy great name alone + Is a full harvest whence to reap high feeling; + It comes upon us like the glorious pealing + Of the wide spheres—an everlasting tone.” + —_John Keats._ _To Kosciusko._ + + + LETTER TO MY MOTHER. + + Vienna, Feb. 12, 1867. + +From Saint Petersburg to here, a long pull, is it not? and what a change +in temperature from the icy zero of the Neva to that which seems almost +like summer! We saw the snow disappear on our way, and wheels gradually +take the place of runners, and now that I am far away, and in a city, +which like most European ones, is an attempted copy of Paris, how +brilliantly indeed do the peculiarities of Russia stand forth. + +We left St. P. one morning and the evening of the next day were in +Warsaw. Returning to our hotel late from a ball, we were accosted and +stopped by a policeman of whom I asked the way, and he very politely +took us all (Mr. W. F. Nisbet, an American gentleman who came with us +from Russia, C. A. L. and myself.) to the station house. It seems no one +in Warsaw is allowed to be out after midnight without a “pass,” and we +had neglected to get them. + +We coolly entered and sat down and burst out laughing, and at length I +explained in my bad German, to an official who talked an equally bad +lingo, our situation, impressing him with the fact of the greatness of +the Amerikanski alliance, and we were soon escorted home. + +The next day we rambled about the town, saw the palaces and the pretty +ladies, and were attended to by some young Russian swells to whom we had +letters from St. Petersburg. In the theatre we saw the Mazourka most +gorgeously danced in true Polish national costume, which was not allowed +here a few years ago. + +Poor old Poland! What is left of her former greatness? Alas, nothing but +the mazourka. As can be aptly said, how like to Byron’s Greece:— + + We have the Polish dance as yet, + Where is the Polish phalanx gone? + +Better this than nothing, as it helps keep up still the nationality of +the people. + +The next morning Charles and I were off to Cracow, the old capital of +Poland, and one of the most interesting and quaint old towns I had ever +seen, with its Square and Schloss, and the church where all the kings of +Poland have been crowned and buried, and we mysteriously descended the +vault, and saw the tombs of Jagellon, Paniatowski, and our good friend +Kosciusko. + +This is an Austrian territory, where the rule is much less rigid, and we +saw many old Poles in faded frogged coats and square caps, and the +antique equipages and livery of families once the greatest in Europe. + +I was never so impressed before with the hard fate of Poland, a great +nation actually annihilated, and I got up my sympathy more on my journey +by reading a most interesting history of Poland by Mickiewicz. + +There happens to be a big salt mine near Cracow, and as we had never +seen anything of the sort before, we descended with Bengal lights and +what not, and did the whole thing: illuminated chambers, ferried across +the Styx, crystal dance halls, and all, hundreds of feet below ground. + + + PARTING COMPANY. + +The next morning we were up early for the train, and Charles and I, +after two and more most agreeable months together, parted company; he +for Dresden and then Paris, and I for Vienna. + + + + + CHAPTER SEVENTH. + CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW. + + “Friend of my youth! when young we roved, + Like striplings, mutually beloved, + With friendship’s purest glow, + The bliss which winged those rosy hours + Was such as pleasure seldom showers + On mortals here below.” + “To Lord Clare”—Byron’s _Hours of Idleness_. + + + IN VIRGINIA. + THREE YEARS PREVIOUS. THE PAIN OF BATTLE. + +It was the movement of General George G. Meade called the Mine Run +Expedition, Nov. 26, 1863. On the morning of the 27th the First Mass. +Cavalry under command of General John I. Gregg, marched to Parker’s +Store on the Orange Plank Road, where it met a column of Meade’s +infantry, the Fifth Corps, under command of General George Sykes, passed +them, and marched ahead of them on the Gordonsville road, leading the +column through the Wilderness. At New Hope Church they met the enemy’s +cavalry pickets, but the country was so densely wooded they could only +fight dismounted. + +Brevet Col. B. W. Crowninshield in his History of the First Mass. +Cavalry, says:—“As the force advanced, the ground became rougher and +well wooded at times, with occasional openings. Charges were made, and +prisoners were taken from what proved to be Walker’s North Carolina +Brigade of Infantry. + +[Illustration: + + CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW. +] + +Lieutenant C. A. Longfellow of Company A, was badly wounded, at first +supposed mortally.... + +When the 5th Corps infantry came up and relieved the cavalry the enemy +had been pushed back nearly to his works on Mine Run.... In the fight +the 1st Mass. Cavalry lost one officer and four men killed, and two +officers and eleven men wounded.” + + + FROM THE HISTORY OF THE FIFTH MASS. BATTERY, LIGHT ARTILLERY. + LETTER OF LIEUT. APPLETON P. 747. + THE CROSSING OF THE RAPIDAN. NEW HOPE CHURCH. + +“On the 27th (Nov. 1863.) off at daybreak, struck a dirt road, which +soon led to another plank road parallel to the first, and also in the +direction of Orange Court House. On, on, we trudged, and soon we heard +heavy cannonading, which every minute grew nearer, mixed now and then +with the sharp cracks of the carbine. We soon came to the little village +of New Hope Church, where the Corps rushed on at ‘double quick’ to +relieve the shattered squadrons of Gregg, and a splendid sight it was. +The cavalry formed in squares by the road side, right glad to be +relieved by the ‘Doughboys’ and our artillery rushing on to the front. +Captain Martin (Capt. A. P. Martin commanding the Artillery Brigade) +soon got the batteries in posish, and in fact the only fighting our +Corps did was done by the artillery. I soon heard that Charlie +Longfellow had been wounded, and stole the first minute I could get to +run off to the hospital, New Hope Church, where I saw the dear boy, +lying on the pulpit, and surrounded by the officers of the regiment. +(First Mass. Cavalry.) He looked and talked well, but I did not have but +a minute to stay with him, as my biz. then was on the field.... I went +again to the hospital in the evening, but Charlie had gone, as they had +taken off all except the worst cases. I assure you it was not a pleasant +sight. Charlie and Bowditch (Captain Henry Pickering Bowditch shot in +the right forearm) went off together. Charlie was wounded by a ball just +under the shoulder blade, injuring the spine, but missing the vital +parts.” + + * * * * * + +Previous to his connection with the First Mass. Cavalry he joined the +First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, at the front, as a private, but +was not mustered in, and at the age of 19 was commissioned in the +Cavalry. His record in the Adjutant General’s office of the State of +Massachusetts, is as follows:— + + “Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned 2nd Lieut., Co. + G., 1st Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, March 27, 1863; mustered March 27, + 1863, for 3 years. Commissioned 1st Lieut. to date January 24, 1864, + not mustered; discharged February 15, 1864, as 2nd Lieutenant. + + Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned 1st Lieut. in + Co. G, 5th Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, January 7, 1864. He declined the + commission.” + +The Fifth Cavalry was a Regiment composed of men of African descent. + +In August, 1863, he was Acting Adjutant. + +The wound affected him all his life, he was never in condition to rejoin +the army, and it prevented him from going on the ill fated expedition of +Captain George Washington De Long in the _Jeanette_, to the North Pole. +He had begged his great friend James Gordon Bennett to go as a volunteer +on the expedition, but the surgeon who examined all those who were to +take part in it, did not consider him fit to stand the probable +exposure, and so would not pass him, greatly to his own disappointment +but to the relief of his family and friends. As he would doubtless have +been in the boat with Captain De Long he was saved the suffering and +terrible death of those brave men. + +After much travelling and residence in many lands, shortly after his +return from a trip to Tahiti with his friend T. Watson Merrill, in the +spring of 1892, he had a sudden stroke of paralysis, from which he never +recovered. + +Passing the summer with his sister Miss Alice Longfellow, at the old +Nahant Cottage, he returned with her in the autumn to the historic home +at Cambridge, formerly Washington’s headquarters, and after living all +the winter and appearing somewhat better, he died April 13, 1893, at the +age of forty-nine. He was born June 9, 1844. + + + + + CHAPTER EIGHTH. + FRANCE. LAST DAYS OF THE EMPIRE. TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS. + + + I + + “Friend of the fair old days, + Have you forgotten me? + Back through the pleasant ways, + Oft in my memory, + Gladly I turn again. + Hearing the sounds that blew + Over the meadows then— + Oft at the side of you + Dreaming old dreams, I gaze + Worshipping all I see— + Friend of the fair old days, + Have you forgotten me? + + II + + · · · · · + Do you remember me? + · · · · · + Deeming you great and wise— + Questions I asked you then? + There where the green hills rise + Often your gaze was cast + Down on me tenderly— + Friend of the dear old past, + May you remember me?” + —_S. E. Kiser._ + + + THE GUESTS OF FRANCE. + +I wrote home June 5th, 1867, the year of the Great Exposition:—“It does +not pay just now to be away from Paris, for it is in a most exceptional +state, filled with Europeans—Kings, Princes, and all kinds of +celebrities. All other places are deserted and quieter than usual, and +moreover they will all keep for the future, but probably not for years +will Paris see such another sight. + +[Illustration: + + HON. NATHANIEL P. BANKS. + + REPRESENTATIVE FROM MASSACHUSETTS. +] + +The last few steamers have brought over crowds of ‘Yanks’; others have +come up from Italy and Germany, and I find that since the short time ago +that I left here for England, my many friends have turned up and prices, +too, have run up very fast. + +The race for the Grand Prix on last Sunday, was probably the most +brilliant assemblage of the sort the world has ever seen, and the road +home from the tribune itself to the Place de la Concorde, was a solid +mass of vehicles five or six rows in breadth, and all going in the same +direction. + +My friend the Tsar Alexander II. was there, and I recognized other +Russian friends, but I shall let you get the accounts from the papers, +and not from me, of all the grand doings of the season. There is to be +held at the race course at Long Champs a huge review of military. + + + THE REVIEW. + +Thursday. Midnight: I must finish this for you tonight to dispatch it by +tomorrow morning. + +The Review (Longchamps June 6, 1867, Review of the French Army.) was +superb. It was, perhaps, the proudest day of Napoleon Third’s career, +having on one side of him, as he reviewed the troops, the King of +Prussia, and on the other the Emperor of Russia. + +I was late in driving up, but afterwards had a fine view of it all at +the apartments of Paul Forbes and his family of New York, on the avenue. + +Returning to Paris after the Review, the carriage in which the Tsar was +seated passed me somewhere in the Bois de Boulogne, as I too, was +returning from the pageant. I was so full of the delightful time I had +had in Russia, a few months before, that I took off my hat as we passed +and gave him a bow. My salutation was so very marked that he looked at +me intently, as if trying to make out just who I was, but I do not +suppose he could bring me back to his recollection, though of course he +returned the salutation. + +The weather is delightful now, and the days so long that it is not dark +at nine o’clock, and Paris is one prolonged fête, each day and night +more astonishing than the last. + +There is a vague rumor floating about that some crazy Pole attempted to +assassinate the Tsar at the Review. + +June 12, 1867: This marvellous life of Paris runs along, getting more +extraordinary every day! + +How well Napoleon III. has succeeded in his undertaking. He invites +rulers of all descriptions to come and visit him in his home, to see the +Paris of ’67. + +They accept, and he quietly sits twirling his moustache, surrounded by +Tsars, Popes, Queens, Sultans, Kings, Grand Dukes and Princes! What a +shrewd and wonderful stroke of diplomacy it all is, thus showing to the +world the marvels of his great capital! Balls, fêtes, races, reviews, +come and go, but how it will all end one cannot say, for I think the +French people will be tired of the tremendous expense before the summer +is over. + +Yesterday I went with a party to Fontainebleau, but it so happened the +Imperialist party were all there the same morning, and the Palace was +closed for visitors. We breakfasted, and drove through the forest, +expecting to see a _chasse_, but, shortly after reaching the +“Rendezvous” we found it was abandoned on account of the heat, and dogs +and huntsmen all marched home. + +It is almost too warm for theatres now, but tonight I have been to see a +piece called _La Dame aux Camélias_, which was a great success in Paris +ten or fifteen years ago. (Vaudeville Theatre, Paris, February 2, 1852, +Madame Eugénie Doche was the first Marguerite Gautier.) + +July 4. 1867:—Here we have the great day of American independence, but, +owing to the death of Maximilian, all festivities, both for the Sultan, +and even our own “Fourth of July” celebration, are postponed. I must say +this seems rather unnecessary, but I am inclined to think that yesterday +morning Napoleon III did not have a very good appetite for breakfast. +(The Emperor Maximilian was executed in Mexico, where he bravely +insisted upon remaining to meet his fate when the army of Napoleon III +had been withdrawn.) + +Paris is one of those places into which you tumble very easily, and then +find it almost impossible to get out of it. People are packing up now, +however, and the fashionable resort this summer, for Bostonians +especially, seems to be the baths about Salzburg in the Tyrol. + +Funny thing life is here in Paris. You wake up in the morning without +any idea what you will do during the day. Invitations come, one thing +succeeds another, and the hours slip along. + +July 10, 1867: The death of Maximilian has caused a very deep feeling in +Europe, and most of the festivities arranged for the Sultan have been +countermanded. This makes it rather quieter in Paris now than was +expected. + +I went out yesterday to Saint Cloud, and saw some rowing regattas +between boats of various nationalities, but there were few persons +present, and not much excitement.” + + * * * * * + +The year of the great Exposition of 1867, may be regarded as the apogee +of the Second Empire, and soon after it ominous rumblings were heard in +the political clouds. The disastrous and humiliating expedition to +Mexico doubtless contributed to the beginning of the downfall, and even +the sight of Napoleon at the Longchamps Review in 1867, with the Emperor +of Russia and the King of Prussia on either side, could not bolster up +popular opinion as to the prestige of French military glory. + +I never considered that the people of France endorsed the expedition to +Mexico, or believed in it. No, it was part of the personal ambition of +Napoleon to take advantage of our troubles, and try to foist an empire +upon one of the nations of the Western hemisphere, where it was not +wanted, would have been out of place, and could not last long. It was a +miserable business from beginning to end, and did much to weaken the +ties of friendship between France and the United States, as was shown +many years later by the opposition of our government and people to the +peaceful work of Mr. de Lesseps in his herculean efforts in behalf of +the Panama Canal. + +Napoleon was at the height of his tinsel glory in 1867, but the triumph +of the Empress Eugénie was reached in 1869, at the fêtes in Egypt +attending the opening of the Suez Canal, certainly in her case a +well-merited one, her efforts as a relative of de Lesseps having +contributed so much to the success of that great enterprise. One would +hardly have imagined then, while looking upon her in all her grace and +loveliness, in every way the queen of the festivities, that the +over-throwing of the Empire was so soon to follow. + +The celebration of our “Fourth of July” at the Pré Catalan in the Bois +de Boulogne was omitted in 1867, as noted, and I have heard that this +was done at the especial request of the French government, and I suppose +it was made in such a way that it would not have been easy or in good +taste to refuse. All the same I could not understand what our +celebration had to do with the death of Maximilian, and I regretted +extremely that our representative succumbed to the pressure brought to +bear. I never learned whether it was the result of orders from +Washington, or if our Minister took the responsibility, for such an act +does not seem to harmonize with the character of General John A. Dix, +though he was the most courteous of gentlemen. + + + PARIS IN 1869. + +On the 21st of May, 1869, I wrote my sister—“Paris is now filled with +American diplomats, Washburn, Jay, Burlingame, Marsh, etc., most of whom +I have seen. Burlingame dined with me ten days ago, and expatiated on +the charms of everything in California.” + +Among my guests at my apartment just off the Boulevard, were members of +congress, prominent men of business and science, diplomatic +representatives, and others, meeting there as they turned up in Paris on +their European trips for relaxation. They were generally Americans, as +my ambitions were all identified with my native country, but I would +often have a sprinkling of Frenchmen or English to give variety and +there, in the neutral territory of my smoking-room, all restraint thrown +aside, men who at home belonged to political parties sometimes in bitter +opposition, would meet and express their opinions in a way that would +have been impossible in New York or Washington. Sparks of wit would fly +off from the fast working grindstone of this unpretentious salon, and +there was plenty of valuable information to be picked up by any one who +would take the trouble to go there with his eyes and ears open. + + + BURLINGAME AND CHINA. + +At a farewell banquet given to Major General John A. Dix, U. S. Minister +to France, at the Grand Hotel, June 1st, 1869, by the American residents +at Paris, the Hon. Anson Burlingame was present and was introduced by +the presiding officer Hon. Elliot C. Cowdin, as one who “pleaded for the +rights of four millions of slaves until their last fetter fell. He now +in loftier tones pleads before the nations the cause of four hundred +millions of men.” + +In 1867, Prince Kung, regent of the Empire of China, offered to appoint +Burlingame, who was United States Minister to China appointed by +President Lincoln, special envoy to the United States and the great +European powers, for the purpose of framing treaties of amity with these +nations, an honor never before conferred upon a foreigner. + +He resigned as U. S. Minister to accept this mission around the world, +and arrived at the United States the head of a numerous party, in March, +1868. + +In the course of his remarks the following year at the banquet to +General Dix, he said:— + +“While we do not interfere in other people’s affairs, nor permit them to +interfere in ours, we cannot forget that we are a great nation, that we +cannot abdicate our responsibilities, that we must take our part in the +peaceful police of the sea and the land, and in the maintenance of those +principles of international law, which recognize the equality of nations +as we recognize the equality of men. That, as it is the highest duty of +every society to protect the weak from the strong, so the weak nations +and struggling peoples should find ample protection in that sense of +justice of the strong nations which they cannot lose and prosper.” + +Mr. Burlingame visited St. Petersburg the last of the European capitals, +and died there at forty-eight years of age, on Washington’s birthday, +1870, about a year after the original departure from China. I first met +him when he had the Chinese Embassy in London, then frequently in Paris, +and the last time in Stockholm before we left. + + + THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD. + +In the speech of Ex-Governor Alexander H. Bullock at this banquet, he +said with reference to the mission of Burlingame, and the Union Pacific +Railroad just completed:— + +“The great work is done, and hereafter the states are a unit in commerce +as in government. Before my friend Mr. Burlingame has half completed his +cosmopolitan mission, the freight trains have been made up at San +Francisco, laden with the product of China, and by the time he shall +have unpacked his trunks at Berlin, he may drink at the breakfast table +his favorite tea, which, thanks to the irrepressible and irresistible +Yankees, has been brought round to him the other way.” + + + THE CURTIN-DREXEL DINNER. + +My first thought of seeing _Le Canal de Suez_, of going to the opening +ceremonies which took place on the 17th November, 1869, was the result +of a dinner given at the rooms of Bowles Brothers & Co. early in July of +that year. + +The dinner was given in honor of Governor Andrew G. Curtin of +Pennsylvania, who had been appointed U. S. Minister to the Russian court +at St. Petersburg, and was then _en route_ to his post, and to Mr. +Anthony J. Drexel of Philadelphia, who was making his first visit to +Paris after the establishment there of the branch house of Drexel, +Harjes & Co. + +Among the guests present I can now recall the Hon. Elihu B. Washburn U. +S. Minister at Paris, Hon. Anson Burlingame at the head of the Chinese +Embassy, Major General the Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks M. C., Hon. Zachariah +Chandler U. S. Senator, Hon. Fernando Wood M. C., Mr. John C. Lee, of +Lee, Higginson & Co., and Mr. S. Endicott Peabody afterwards a partner +in the house of J. S. Morgan & Co. + +Charles Bowles then and there suggested that General Banks and I go to +the opening of the Suez Canal. I talked with the General about it and we +agreed to meet in Paris the middle of September, and start on the trip. + +We went first to Hamburg, then to Copenhagen, where we arrived about the +20th of September, and met General Waldemar Rudolph Raasloff, Chargé +d’Affaires from Denmark to the United States, 1858 to 1862, Envoy +Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary 1864 to 1866, and then on to +Stockholm, where we saw a great deal of Mr. Burlingame, who had just +arrived with the Chinese Embassy. + + + AT STOCKHOLM. + +From a letter written to my sister from Stockholm I take what follows +under date of October 4, 1869:—“You will be, doubtless, somewhat +surprised at seeing from the heading of this, how far I have managed to +get from my beloved Paris without any previous warning. With General N. +P. Banks M. C. from Massachusetts, I set out on the trip which he was +very desirous of accomplishing, first through the north countries of +Europe, and then through Russia to Constantinople and the opening of the +Suez Canal. + +There is not a man in the United States just now who is a more valuable +companion for such a trip. + +We have been passing several days here very pleasantly though quietly, +and tonight after dining with the U. S. Minister, General C. C. Andrews, +we take the steamer direct for Saint Petersburg, where I shall have an +opportunity of revisiting and seeing in a more summer like garb the +scenes of my former triumphs. + +Mr. Burlingame happens to be here with all the Chinese, and they cause +an immense sensation in the city. The square in front of our hotel is +continually crowded with groups of curious ones, trying to catch a +glimpse of the Celestials, as they sit complacently at their windows and +gaze and smile benignly on the people below. + +Mr. Burlingame, General Banks and I have long talks, lasting late into +the night, about everything, which generally end in glorifying the +grandeur of the great Republic.” + + + GENERAL BANKS, DENMARK AND SWEDEN. + +There is to be held this year (1904) a Shakesperian celebration marking +the 300th anniversary of the first printed edition of the tragedy of +Hamlet, and a portrait statue of Shakespere is to be erected on the road +to Kronborg Castle, the foundations of which are now said to be insecure +through the undermining of the tides. I remember well after our visit to +Hamlet’s castle at Elsinore, and promenade on the terrace, when we +returned to the hotel, and had dined, and were in adjoining rooms, +before retiring, the General was full of the inspiration of the scene, +and repeated to me many of the lines of Hamlet appropriate to the place +and occasion. It seemed to me as if he knew the whole play by heart. + +At Stockholm the house he especially wanted to see was that of +Swedenborg,—founder of the Swedenborg religion,—and we went there one +day. It was a simple dwelling as I now recall it after these many years. +We made an excursion, also, to the town of Upsala, famous for its +university. + +The American Minister Gen. Christopher Columbus Andrews, of Minnesota, +who had but recently been appointed, gave us a dinner, and all in his +power to make our sojourn agreeable and instructive. + + + A REVIEW OF THE ARMY. + +We saw a review of the army by King Oscar, and were told afterwards how +much he regretted he had not known we were there, so that he could have +invited us to join his staff, and take part in it. + + + RAASLOFF, BANKS AND THE ISLANDS. + +In Copenhagen at the Raasloff lunch of perhaps 20, after he was elected +deputy, General Banks made at table one of his effective impromptu short +speeches. General Raasloff was the only candidate, and thus his election +was not difficult, but he never recovered from the disappointment of our +government not taking the island of St. Thomas, when he supposed it was +all settled between the United States and Denmark. Banks was elected +member of congress from Massachusetts in 1853, and 1855, Governor of the +state from 1858 to 1861, elected member of congress again, with the +exception of the election of 1872, from 1865 to 1877. In 1888, he was +again elected, and served until 1890. He was chairman of the committee +on foreign affairs of the U. S. House of Representatives in 1865 and +later, including the years General Raasloff was minister from Denmark to +the United States. I had heard him often speak of the purchase of Saint +Thomas, and the disappointment of his friend General Raasloff at its +nonaccomplishment. + +In his judgment we ought to own or control all the islands of the West +Indies, showing the danger to us, as proved by the action of England +during our civil war, of their being in the possession of governments +that might be hostile. The blockade runners were almost entirely English +ships, making money out of our troubles by supplying the Confederates +with articles they needed, and receiving principally cotton in return, +which was then selling at a tremendous price. + +If the advice of Banks had been followed, the War with Spain in 1898, +which began by the desire to assist Cuba in gaining its independence, +could not have occurred. He was one of the strongest advocates of the +purchase of Alaska. + +During my travels with General Banks, then 53 years of age, from the +middle of September, 1869, to the early part of December, I always found +him a very abstemious man. I do not remember that he ever took a glass +of spirits; I mean by this what are called hard liquors. At dinner he +would take a little wine, and when I asked him what he preferred he +would say, “Well, you know, I consider champagne the most agreeable,” +and so once or twice a week we would have a bottle. Occasionally, at +night, he would indulge in a glass of beer. + +Nor did he smoke at all. He would say to me, “I cannot smoke.” This +reminds me that he never clipped expressions of the kind, i. e. he +always said “I do not,” “I will not,” “I shall not,” instead of “I +can’t,” “I don’t,” etc. It was a good lesson for me which I have tried +to follow, for the abbreviations always seem to me cheap and +undignified, especially when used in a speech or in writing. Of course +in ordinary conversation it may be to a certain extent different, but, +all the same, I prefer the two words to the shortening them into one. + + + TO ST. PETERSBURG. + +Crossing the Gulf of Finland, we stopped at several small towns on the +way to St. Petersburg, where our new minister, Ex-Governor Curtin and +the Secretary of Legation Mr. Titian J. Coffey of Pennsylvania, both of +whom had been but a short time in the country, treated us most +hospitably. + + + THE PRESENTATIONS. + +Writing from St. Petersburg on this date I said: “The 27th of October +will be remembered by Americans as a day of great interest.” + +Today at 2 o’clock at the Winter Palace, our new minister Ex-Governor A. +G. Curtin presented his credentials and was formally received by the +Emperor Alexander II. + +Our minister’s speech and the reply by the Tsar, were short but to the +point, and replete with sentiments of increasing friendship between the +two great continental nations of the world, and the happy remarks about +President Grant and the Emperor Alexander will be appreciated by the +people of both countries. The secretary Mr. Titian J. Coffey, was +presented at the same time, and the United States legation at Russia can +well be proud of its representatives. + + + THE REVIEW. + +Another event of the day was the review of military forces stationed in +and about the city, to the number of thirty-five thousand, which took +place on the Champ de Mars. Two great reviews are held yearly in Saint +Petersburg, one in the early spring and the other in January. The review +of today was especially ordered by the Emperor, out of regular course, +and whether or not it has any political significance was subject of +speculation. + +The display was, as such things always are here, very fine, the beauty +and strength of the Russian horses being especially observed. + +Besides General Banks there was present General Hiram Berdan, who has +been for some time in Russia, and we understand that he has large +contracts from the Russian government for supplying them with his +improved musket and cartridges. + + + AGRICULTURAL EXHIBITION. + +In this month (October) there has been a very interesting exhibition of +the different herds of cattle raised in the Russian Empire. This is the +first exhibition of the kind ever held in the city, and it has been an +object of great interest. The prizes were awarded yesterday by the Grand +Duke Nicholas, and today the Emperor visited it in person. The ladies of +the Court have been much interested in its success, and many of the +farms in the neighborhood of the city where the finest stock is raised, +are owned by members of the Imperial family. Its object is to improve +the breed of all kinds of stock, and to assist as much as possible the +Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, especially in +everything that relates to preparing animal food for the market. + + + THE REVIEW OF THE TROOPS. + +I went to the Review with General Banks as if attached to his staff. We +were both in uniform, he as a major general of United States Volunteers, +and I as a captain of Light Artillery, in accordance with an Act of +Congress which allows all honorably discharged officers of the Union +army to appear in their highest brevet rank on any and all occasions +during life when a uniform is the appropriate dress. + +As a general rule the other armies of Europe follow the customs of the +great nations, and when the head of the government ordinarily wears a +uniform of course the officers follow the example, making it their +habitual dress. The Russian government dresses its men in the best of +all colors, gray, and besides the trimness and inconspicuousness of the +uniform itself they have many simple appliances, as for instance, the +hood or basilisk, for the comfort of the soldier, for adopting which the +rigorous climate of the country has doubtless contributed a great deal. +The result is, that for thorough winter work I doubt if there is any +soldier in Europe as well prepared as the Russians. + +Horses were there ready for us, and we rode along the lines and between +the squares, on the staff of the Emperor himself. It was a fine sight +and I was specially struck with the enthusiasm of the troops for their +chief the Tsar. In no country is this carried to such a pitch as in +Russia. The shouts of the men as he approaches are astonishing in their +half-barbaric ecstasy, platoon after platoon taking up the cry in turn. +The shouts of these strange looking Russians I thought at the time +implied a power and assurance of fighting well for their country and the +Tsar, whenever the time should come, different from the _élan_ of the +French, the dogged determinedness of the English, or the severe +discipline of the Prussians. Subsequent events proved that I was not +wrong in my deductions. + +The army was under the command of the Tsar’s brother, the Grand Duke +Nicholas, who turned it over to its real head as he came down at the +last moment in his open drosky, and mounted his horse which was in +readiness for him there. + +In connection with this review I recollect an amusing incident. It was +in the month of October, and the weather was consequently becoming +rather cold, and so a day or two before a general order was issued for +the troops to appear in their overcoats. This made it a matter of +etiquette for us, also, to wear some kind of overcoat, and as we neither +of us had one of a military style, we went with our good-natured consul +George Pomutz to a tailor, where we each ordered a little dark blue cape +which must be made in a day’s time, and we thought would serve our +purpose. They did do very well, and I have often used mine since in the +militia, and once lent it to a lady to wear going to a dinner party, +fastened with a bright brass button. + + + GENERAL HIRAM BERDAN. + +General Berdan, of rifle renown, happened then to be in St. Petersburg +with one of his famous guns he was offering for the consideration of the +Russian government, and he, too, was at the Review. + + + THE LOST SWORD. + +Fortunately I did not have with me my precious army sword, but one I had +bought at Paris just before starting, an historic sword as the +proprietor of the little shop in the Rue St. Honoré,—on the right from +the Rue Castiglione, as you go towards the Rue Royale,—where I got it, +told me that it had belonged to one of the suite of Napoleon at St. +Helena, and that one of the family had brought it back. + +Just before General Banks and I left Saint Petersburg for Moscow, we +heard that the railroad bridge over one of the great rivers had been +burned. This was indeed the case as we found on arriving there shortly +after dark, and we had to pass the night on the train where we were, and +traverse the stream the next day in boats, rafts, or any way we could. + +As we had reached the southern side, and were stepping on to the bank +from the boat, the sword slipped out of my bundle of rugs, and fell into +the river, where I have no doubt it has remained to the present time. +Morijiks tried to find it for me, but the water was very deep, the +current swift, and it could not be recovered. I doubt if it was ever +known how, or by whom and for just what purpose the bridge was fired, +for it was generally believed to have been the work of an incendiary. + +A short time before, the railroad had been sold by the Winans people of +Baltimore, who had built and largely owned it, for 7,000,000 roubles +cash to the Court clique, headed by Count Strogonoff, who, by the way, +came down on the same train with us to see what was the matter. + +All the old employés were discharged for some reason or other, and their +places filled by Poles taken from the St. Petersburg and Warsaw +railroad, and so very likely one, or several, of the men turned off, +devised and carried out this plan of revenge. + +I remember that Governor Curtin and the Secretary Mr. Coffey, whom we +had often seen during our stay in St. Petersburg, came to see us off at +the station. We experienced great difficulty in getting any kind of +information as to the situation, but we were determined to start and run +the chance, as we had but little time to catch our boat at Odessa. As it +was, we lost about twenty-four hours, reaching Moscow just one day later +than we should. + +It was during our sojourn at St. Petersburg that I received, thanks to +Mr. Charles Bowles then in America, an invitation from the Board of +Trade of my native city of Boston, of which the Hon. Alexander H. Rice +was then president, to be its delegate for the opening ceremonies of the +Suez Canal, and to write a report thereon. I consider this as the +beginning of my service in the interest of a canal across the American +Isthmus, for instead of going to Egypt merely as a tourist and +spectator, I had some work to do by which my attention was specially +called to the subject of ship canals. Certain it is that since that time +with many other occupations it has constantly been before my mind and is +so now. + + + INDIVIDUAL ENTERPRISE. + +To beguile the time on board ship I jotted down the following notes, +Odessa, Nov. 7, 1869:— + +“The idea strikes me forcibly here—that of individual enterprise, or +rather great results accomplished by individuals—because the prosperity +of this city is mainly due to the unaided efforts of two persons. First +the Duke de Richelieu, a French nobleman who may be regarded as its +founder, and, secondly, Prince Woronzoff, for many years the Russian +governor of the province. + +How much any one man can accomplish if he will devote himself entirely +to the attempt, and what a field there is today for such ambition in the +United States of America! We must have the Darien Canal cut, we must +have our commerce stimulated by a changed tariff; we must have cheaper +internal transportation for our products, and then there will be little +talk about the national debt. The Secretary of the Treasury will not +have to sell gold in Wall street.” + + + ON THE WAY TO SUEZ. + +Passing in our journey from the cold autumn weather of Russia, partly by +rail and partly by boat and across the Mediterranean, we reached the +glorious sun of Constantinople and the tropical warmth of Egypt. + +[Illustration: + + FERDINAND DE LESSEPS, 1869. +] + +At Odessa we joined an excursion party in one of the boats of the +Russian Navigation Company the “General Kotzebue,” to Constantinople, +Rhodes, Port Said, Ismailia, Suez, passing through the canal, Cairo by +rail, Alexandria, and then by Brindisi and the Mount Cenis Tunnel back +to Paris in December. + +General Banks ought to have been invited to represent the government of +the nation, he was then member of congress and chairman of the committee +on foreign affairs in the house of representatives, but he was not +appointed. + +It was on this occasion that I made the acquaintance of Count Ferdinand +de Lesseps, the hero of the canal, and my journey with General Banks +deserves more than a passing notice, for his varied experience of the +past, and his penetrating observation of the present, had given him +facilities for seeing and judging things in a manner which could not +fail to be instructive. The strong American stamp of his character, +while exciting my youthful enthusiasm did not bias him in his judgment +of European or Oriental customs or forms of government. From his mind +wonderful photographs were taken as we travelled together from the North +to the South, and his quiet and dignified encouragement of my +aspirations so naturally given in the offhand intimacy of a journey, +with the mixture of petty pleasures and annoyances, were a stimulus +which came very opportune to me and which I was not likely to forget. + +Accidentally, too, at different stages of our wanderings, we were thrown +in with several other marked and representative types of Americans; +among them at Stockholm the noble Burlingame since then taken away in +the midst of his grand work of Chinese regeneration; Governor Curtin the +war governor of Pennsylvania, the genial, kindly, bright, wiry type of +American politician, and the well-known American dentist of Paris, Dr. +Thomas W. Evans, whose intimacy with the French Emperor Napoleon III, +and knowledge of the inner history of the past twenty years in Paris, +made him an agreeable and valued companion. + +With the healthy glow of travel, at the most delightful season of the +year, and the excitement of military reviews and gala fêtes at the +different capitals visited, all ending with the gorgeous Aladdin-like +enchantments of the week in Egypt, when Europe, Asia, Africa, aye and +America, came at the invitation of the Khedive, and led by the graceful +Empress Eugénie, offered their congratulations at the completion of that +international work of peace, the Suez Canal,—and the opportunity of +seeing these sights in the presence of many of the most distinguished +personages alive, and of discussing them with advanced minds amid the +surroundings of attractive places,—what than this could be a better +phase of education? + + + CONSTANTINOPLE. + +On arriving at Constantinople the captain of the steamer gave all the +passengers a couple of days to spend in seeing the wonders of this +extraordinary city before continuing our journey. + +We went to the best hotel, and, after breakfasting, whom should we meet +in the hall but my old Harvard classmate Jeremiah Curtin vice consul at +St. Petersburg. Curtin is the translator of “Quo Vadis” by the Polish +author Henryk Sienkiewicz, published by Little, Brown & Co. of +Boston,—John Murray Brown our classmate being a member of the firm,—and +dedicated to another member of our class Auguste Comte of San Francisco. + +I had seen Curtin in Moscow, when I was there in January, 1867. General +Banks had known him in Washington, Curtin’s headquarters when not on his +journeys of investigation, and he was very glad to meet us both. What he +was doing in Turkey we could not quite make out, but I think in the +interest of Russia he was quietly watching the movements of the Slavonic +elements there, and through the Danubian principalities. Besides this he +was writing letters for one of the great New York papers. Mr. Curtin +told us that for the morning he met us he was to have by appointment an +interview with the Patriarch of Constantinople the head of the Greek +Church there, and invited us to accompany him, and we were only too glad +to thus have an opportunity for seeing this distinguished personage. + +The Metropolitan of Moscow and the Patriarch of Constantinople are two +of the heads of the Greek Church. We went to see the Patriarch simply as +the head of the Turkish branch of the Church. + +We started from the hotel on horseback, and, winding down some narrow +streets to the water, crossed it at the Golden Horn, and were soon in +the old part of the city on the other side, threading our way to where +the Patriarch lived, amidst the ancient houses and quaint shops which +were swarming with inhabitants, until we arrived at the door. + +We were taken up into quite a large room with divans all around it, and +ushered into the presence of the Patriarch, who sat tranquilly in one +corner. + +He was an aged, fine looking gentleman, with long, flowing locks and +beard, and received us most graciously. + +We talked, through an interpreter, on various matters, and, after +partaking of sweetmeats and coffee, retired very much gratified with the +interview. + +His dress, as also that of the interpreter, was curious; being a +combination of Oriental robes and church trappings like all the +religious officers of the Greek Church. It is striking and effective. + + + ARRIVAL AT PORT SAID. + +It was on November 15th a little before sundown that our vessel the +“General Kotzebue” entered the harbor of Port Said, with a very +agreeable company of Russians, and came to anchor in its proper place +about seven o’clock. + +We took our position on the right in entering. The Emperor of Austria +had entered just before us. Salutes were fired. + +We went on shore to see the U. S. Consul, but he was not at home. Left +cards on Mr. de Lesseps and strolled about the town. Left cards on the +Vice Roi in his yacht, and saw Nuba Pacha. Met Dr. Evans and Dr. Edward +A. Crane,—a well known member of the American colony in Paris and for +many years editor of _The American Register_ of that city owned by Dr. +Evans,—on the street at Port Said. Later we go to the reception in the +yacht of the Vice Roi or Khedive, a splendid boat, and I was there +presented to the enterprising ruler of Egypt, and first met Mr. de +Lesseps himself, who from that time has been one of my favorite heroes, +and who I am free to admit I consider the most remarkable man of our +day. + +As I now look back through many years to that week of fêtes in the land +of the Pharaohs, I have a kaleidoscopic vision of enchantment worthy of +the Arabian Nights, and perceive through the charm and mystery of the +Orient, a work of practical modern progress which it softens and adorns. + + + RETURN TO PARIS. + +I was with General Banks in Paris after our return from Egypt about ten +days in December, 1869, when he and I, with Paul Forbes, Anthoine de +Gogorza, Alexandre Boyer, two Erlangers, Emile and Louis Count +Excelmans, Dr. Evans, General Charles B. Norton, and others, were +organizing the Darien Canal Company. Then he went to Washington for the +session of congress, and I remained in Paris. + + + + + CHAPTER NINTH. + ALEXANDER II. AND EMANCIPATION. + + “Though watery deserts hold apart + The worlds of East and West, + Still beats the self-same human heart + In each proud nation’s breast. + + Our floating turret tempts the main + And dares the howling blast, + To clasp more close the golden chain + That long has bound them fast. + + In vain the gales of ocean sweep, + In vain the billows roar, + That chain the wild and stormy steep + Of storied Elsinore. + + She comes! She comes! Her banner dips + In Neva’s flashing tide, + With greetings on her cannon’s lips + The storm-god’s iron bride. + + · · · · · + + No prairies heaped their garnered store + To fill her sunless hold. + Not rich Nevada’s gleaming ore + Its hidden caves enfold. + + But lightly as the sea bird swings + She floats the depth above; + A breath of flame to lend her wings— + Her freight, a people’s love. + + When darkness hid the stormy skies + In war’s long winter night, + One ray still cheered our straining eyes, + The far off northern light. + + And now the friendly rays return + From lights that glow afar, + Those clustered lamps of heaven that burn + Around the western star. + + A nation’s love in tears and smiles + We bear across the sea: + O! Neva of the banded isles, + We moor our hearts to thee.” + + —_Oliver Wendell Holmes on Fox’s Mission to Russia_, 1866. + + +[Illustration: + + ALEXANDER II., 1866 +] + + + THE TERRITORY OF RUSSIA. + +Forty-two years have passed since in Novgorod, the oldest town, Russia +celebrated the one thousandth anniversary of its birth, and erected a +monument consisting of an enormous globe, in the midst of emblematic and +historical figures. The original Russia was a republic. It occupied a +small district near the sources of the Dneiper and Western Dvina, and +the site of the future city of Novgorod. Its name was derived from Rūs +the patronymic of three brothers of a Variag tribe belonging to the +settlement. The oldest brother was called Rurik. + +More than six hundred years had passed, when in the South, Ivan III. +united the independent principalities of Moscow, and, in 1505, cast off +the Tartar yoke from these states, whose rulers proclaimed themselves +Tsars, and which were accidentally discovered in 1553, on the White Sea, +by an English navigator seeking for a short route to China and India. A +commercial acquaintance was formed which has been intermittently +sustained ever since with England. + +In 1570, was inaugurated the Russian principle of expansion, by +conquering the republic of the North and annexing it to Moscow. In this +process it is said 60,000 human beings were sacrificed. In a circular +recently issued by the Ministry of Public Instruction through the +curators of the several educational districts, instructing the directors +of secondary schools to instil into the minds of their pupils a correct +theory of the war of the present year (1904) emphasis is given to the +method of treatment of the Russian colonies compared with that received +by those pertaining to other countries. + +It says:—“The western European states draw from their colonies an +immense income, they live on them. Russia expends on her periphery a +very considerable sum annually, and receives nothing from them in +return. The Russian periphery flourishes at the expense of the centre.” + +This periphery embraces the colonies of Finland, the Caucasus, the +Central Asiatic possessions and Manchuria. + +During the reign of Alexander I. the Grand Duchy of Finland, which +stretches from the Gulf of Finland to the Polar Sea, by the peace of +Friederichshamm was ceded to Russia by Sweden in 1809, and Poland was +acquired in 1814. In 1867, Russia possessed about 106,951 Russian square +miles in Europe and the Caucasus, 248,470 in Asia, and 24,210 square +miles which were ceded to the United States in that year. Now behold a +great empire with a territory stretching from the Baltic to the Northern +Pacific, and from the Polar Sea to the frontiers of Turkey, Persia, +Afghanistan and China, crossed by systematically extended lines of +railway, and divided as in the United States of America, into two +portions, whose sources of development, difference in soil, character of +colonization and products, call for constant reference to the +distinctive titles of “the North” and “the South.” Moscow, the +commercial and industrial capital of the empire, which has remained the +home of passive conservatism and an asylum for the discontented, +preserves the tombs of the Grand Princes, and the palace in which the +Tsars of Muscovy lived and other monuments made sacred by tradition, six +centuries of historical associations surrounding the Kremlin. + +St. Petersburg, a cosmopolitan city was built on a European design +especially favoring French models, with the purpose frankly avowed by +Peter the Great of having “a window by which the Russians might look +into civilized Europe.” Like Odessa it has more of a foreign than a +Russian character, but not more than one tenth of the population are +dwellers in the city, while the agricultural element is ever expanding. + + + THE SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT. + +The historical development of Russia has been peculiar, and her social +and political organization differs radically from that of the countries +of western Europe. Its autocracy is founded on the unbounded hereditary +devotion of the people,—peasantry and nobles alike. The entire +government of the vast empire is administered from St. Petersburg, on +the principle that the people are incapable of understanding the methods +of governing their local affairs, and from that or from other reasons, +are not to be trusted with them, so that the local self government is +anomalous. Created by autocratic power through a commission appointed +for the purpose of “conferring more unity and independence on the local +economic administration,” it has not grown into an institution from +popular wants publicly declared, petitioned for and advocated, but +derives its main motive power and maintenance from the Central +Government which controls it. Peter the Great (1682–1725) introduced +uniformity and symmetry into the administration of public affairs. After +the death of Patriarch Adrian of the Greek Church, and an interregnum of +twenty years, Peter supplied his place by an ecclesiastical council a +synod which still remains the highest ecclesiastical authority, in which +as a contemporary observed “the mainspring was Peter’s power, and the +pendulum his understanding.” + +The members of the Synod are appointed by the Tsar who is accountable to +no one. Next to him in temporal power come the Council of State, the +Committee of Ministers, and the Senate, which is the sole Court of +Revision for the Justice of Peace Courts and for the Regular Tribunals, +and is the regulator of the whole judicial system of the empire. Below +these are ten ministries, viz., the Ministries of the Interior, Public +Works, State Demesnes, Finance, Justice, Public Instruction, War, Navy, +Foreign Affairs, and the Imperial Court. + +The territorial administration is divided into provinces, and each +province into districts, all varying greatly in size. Over each province +is a governor, vice-governor, and council. The governor is the local +representative of the Ministry of the Interior and each of the other +ministries have their bureaus and representatives in the provinces drawn +chiefly from the nobility and the clergy. Every province and each of the +ten districts into which it is divided, has an assembly of deputies and +an executive bureau elected by the assembly from among its members, but +the president of the assembly is a Marshal of the Noblesse, and a limit +is placed to the taxation of trade and industry. The deputies are +elected by the landed proprietors of the rural communes, composed of +peasants, and the municipal corporations. The members of the Assembly +for the provinces are elected by the District Assemblies. The system of +government for the towns differs essentially from that of the country, +the towns receiving the advantage of the development of trade and +industry, the establishment of schools, etc. They are of three kinds, +“Government towns,” “District towns,” and supernumerary, each divided +into merchants, nondescript, and artisans, the artisans being partly +made up from the population of the agricultural districts. The towns +have a mayor and council. + + + THE SERFS. + +Moscow has been described as the centre from which serfage radiated, +decreasing toward the north, east, and south. + +According to the documents of the several periods and the statements of +travellers, the rural population of Russia was composed originally of +three classes, viz., slaves who were made so by various causes—some +prisoners of war, others freemen who had sold themselves as slaves, +others insolvent debtors and convicts. One grade higher were the free +farm hands who wandered from place to place, wherever they could find +work, and then the peasants or small farmers, a distinct class by +themselves, who were highest in the social scale, and who were +possessors of land and of their personal liberty. But in the eighteenth +century these distinctions gradually became obliterated on account of +the disproportion between the small number of laborers and the large +amount of irreclaimable land, systematized immigration being impossible, +and all the classes were rolled into one under the name of “serfs,” who +were owned by the great landed proprietors or by the state, and being +held as property were bought and sold in families and singly, and were +deprived of legal protection by the Government according to the ukazes +of October 13, 1675, and June 25, 1682, which sanctioned the practice of +selling peasants and the exaction of the payment to the Government of +dues on the sales of slaves. Free peasants were often kidnapped from +weaker by more powerful proprietors and made serfs, while the same class +although nominally free were so valuable to those who possessed their +services that they were not allowed to leave their borders, so by this +means, and often by reason of debts contracted to the proprietor a large +number became practically serfs before serfage was established by law, +_i.e._ before the Tsars discharged their obligations to the nobles by +bestowing upon them a certain amount of land with a certain number of +laborers attached, thus legalizing serfage and the return of fugitive +slaves. A small proportion of the nobles who lived on their estates held +the peasants as slaves. + +Under Peter the Great (1682–1725) and his immediate successor every man +was compelled to serve the state, and every proprietor paid the poll tax +of his serfs, who were thus reckoned as taxable property, and every +unattached laborer was arrested as a vagrant. In 1766, by imperial +ukaze, the proprietors or masters had a right to transport unruly serfs +to Siberia for life without trial. In 1767 and 1781, it was ordered that +those who entered complaints against their masters, should be punished +with the knout or sent to the mines, or, what they feared most, made to +join the Army as recruits. In extreme cases of the cruelty of +proprietors, the authorities interfered by direction of the Tsar, who +happened to be informed of it. In 1792, the serfs were bought and sold, +and given away as part of the masters’ working capital, in large and +small numbers, with and without the land, but they were not allowed to +be sold by auction, nor to be offered for sale at the time of the +conscriptions. From 1792 to 1861, the estimate of a noble’s fortune was +based on the number of serfs he owned. + +The Emperor Paul toward the close of the 18th century (1796–1801) +desiring to limit the authority of the proprietors, issued an ukaze that +the serfs should not be forced to work for their masters more than three +days in the week, but many paid no attention to it, and the serfs still +had no legal standing in court in order to make a complaint. There were +indeed enlightened, humane proprietors who protected those for whom they +were responsible from outside interference, and under whose management +the life of the serf was much easier than that of agricultural laborers +in some countries who are free, but serfage generally, was the reverse +of this type. The worst suffering was from the hands of speculators who +bought up the land in order to make money in the shortest possible time, +and parted with the land and the families on it indiscriminately. + +Even among uncivilized tribes the Russian peasant is good natured, +easily conciliated, and patient under extreme hardship. He readily +adapts himself to circumstances. + +In the ordinary relations which existed between the serf and the +proprietor the manor land and the communal land were kept separate. From +the laborers on the rural commune land or village system,—the rural +commune contains five-sixths of the population,—where a share of land +was distributed to each serf, labor dues, a certain number of days’ +labor per week, were exacted, also, dues consisting of the products of +the farm and the spinning wheel, in the case of the absence of the serfs +who were at work in the cities or larger towns but retaining, whether +they desired it or not, their membership in the commune. A large +proportion of the serfs could read and write and were enterprising, +self-reliant, and independent. + + + EMANCIPATION OF THE SERFS. + +The Russian proverb, “A story is soon told but a thing is not soon +done,” may be consistently applied to their great reform, one of the +most interesting events of modern history,—the Emancipation of the +Serfs. An effort was made for freedom in 1762, by an insurrection led by +a Cossack with a scheme for creating a peasant empire, but he soon met +with defeat and his plan failed. + +In 1801, Alexander I. attempted to ameliorate the condition of the +serfs, and entertained several projects for a general emancipation, and +Nicholas encouraged the consideration of the question by permitting six +committees to be formed for the purpose. The result was that some +thousands of serfs were emancipated, the custom of giving grants of land +with peasants was abolished, a number of the worst masters were removed +from their estates, and some, convicted of murder, were sent to Siberia. +Yet, when a general emancipation was really inaugurated, the leading +organs of the press acknowledged indebtedness to the Crimean War for +opening the eyes of the country to the dark side of their political and +social organization. It produced an intellectual movement and a moral +revival which led to gigantic results. Their foes in the Crimea, said a +Russian writer of the time, whose manuscript was widely circulated but +never printed, were “British statesmen,” “the crowned conspirator of +France,” “treacherous Austria,” and “Western Europe generally.” Militia +regiments were everywhere raised throughout the country, and many landed +proprietors spent large sums in equipping volunteer corps, but +unscrupulous members of the commissary department enriched themselves at +the expense of these patriotic efforts, and the deficiency of the +country in regard to the resources necessary for a prolonged conflict, +were soon manifest. “Another year of war,” wrote an eye witness in 1855, +“and the whole of Southern Russia will be ruined.” + +In this conflict it was the aim of the Tsar Nicholas to realize the +grand idea of Catherine II., consort of Peter III. who succeeded to his +throne, of driving the Turks out of Europe, but the Allies were +victorious, and even the despised Turks made a successful stand on the +line of the Danube, and when he, the “Iron Tsar,” the sworn enemy of +liberalism, died in a soldier’s humble quarters in the Crimea, the +system he created,—which through the sacrifice of the intelligence of +the people to the increase of military power proved the chief cause it +was claimed of the national disasters,—died with him, and as soon as +peace had been concluded Alexander II. accepting the responsibility of +the dying words of Nicholas, “my successor may do as he pleases, but I +cannot change,” began a reign by which the public administration of +affairs was to be improved, in the words of his manifesto “by the +combined efforts of the Government and the people,” not secretly by the +Administration as had been the custom in making slight changes. + +In March, 1856, soon after the close of the Crimean War Alexander II. +addressed to the Marshals of the Noblesse of Moscow the following +words:— + +“For the removal of certain unfounded reports I consider it necessary to +declare to you that I have not at present the intention of annihilating +serfage, but, certainly, as you yourselves know, the existing manner of +possessing serfs cannot remain unchanged. It is better to abolish +serfage from above, than to await the time when it will begin to abolish +itself from below. I request you, gentlemen, to consider how this can be +put into execution, and to submit my words to the noblesse for their +consideration.” + +These enunciations were received with indifference, and further action +was indefinitely postponed, to the great disappointment of the Tsar, who +at once instituted a committee called “Chief Committee of Peasant +Affairs,” composed of high officers of the state, and great land owners, +among them the Grand Duke Constantine, who should privately work for +these ends, and who would make a study of the subject for six months, +and on the assumption that the Lithuanian provinces where the serfs were +in a miserable condition desired it, “The Rescript of Nazimof” was +prepared, empowering the proprietors to form committees for the study of +this project with a view to definite results in effecting the gradual +abolition of serfage, and four days later a circular was sent by +direction of the Tsar, to the Governors and Marshals of Noblesse all +over Russia, informing them of the action relative to the Lithuanian +Provinces, and a copy of the rescript was furnished them in case they +were disposed to follow suit. This circular produced an immense +sensation. Its meaning was unmistakable, and convincing to loyal +subjects of the Tsar, for a few weeks later he made public announcement +of his wish that, with the help of God, and the co-operation of the +Noblesse, the great work would be accomplished. The public press most +enthusiastically sustained this liberal movement for the amelioration of +the condition of so large a proportion of the population and welcomed +the dawn of a glorious epoch for the nation in which this obstacle to +moral progress, a relic of barbarism, should be removed, and Russia be +placed on equality with the nations of the West, and with these +advocates were joined a majority of the noblesse, among whom were +numerous educated young enthusiasts, while some still clung to serfage +as an indispensable source of revenue not to be obtained except under +the rigid rule of the master, and a part of the land was to be let go to +the peasants. These considerations formed an adverse current which was +felt throughout the country, but no open opposition to the will of the +Tsar was allowed to manifest itself, because of its utter futility. +Still, when in 1857, it became evident that the emancipation of the +serfs was really at hand the prospect raised terrible forebodings in the +minds of masters, stewards, and employers of serfs. By law, it appeared +that the peasants would receive the land which they occupied on +sufferance, comprising half of the entire arable land of some estates, +but no pasturage, and it was feared that the emancipated peasants would +be content to live by the cultivation of their own land, and would not +consent on any terms to work for their former masters. + +During the year 1858, committees were formed for the purposes of +emancipation in every province where serfage existed, the projects which +they proposed being always subject to revision and approval or rejection +by the Government. The fundamental principles of the movement were +intended to accomplish the work of emancipation by allowing the serfs to +remain for a time on the land subject to the authority of the +proprietors, and during this time they should become possessors, by many +payments or by labor, of their houses and gardens, and have the +temporary use of a certain quantity of land sufficient for their own +support, and their taxes to the proprietors and the State. The limit of +this transition period does not seem to have been prescribed. The next +move was the appointment of an “Elaboration Commission,” composed of +officials and landed proprietors named by the Tsar, which formulated a +new plan, approved by the Tsar, in which the idea of gradual +emancipation was eliminated, and its place was supplied by a general law +for the complete abolition of the authority of the proprietor over the +serf. Thus the serfs were to be transformed into small proprietors of a +commune or village, possessing a house and garden and a section of +communal land. The serf was to be declared personally free, and a price +was to be fixed by Government for the rent of the land. As to the +amount, that was limited to the land actually enjoyed by the peasants. +Before the project became a law, deputies from the Provincial Committees +were summoned to St. Petersburg for consultation in matters of detail +before the commission, but this was a mere formality and added nothing +to the influence of the Provincial Committees, or to future results. The +autocratic power remained supreme. In the opinion of the Tsar, “The +autocratic power created serfage, and the autocratic power ought to +abolish it.” + +In 1861, as the time drew nearer there was great excitement all over +Russia. An actor in one of the St. Petersburg theatres shouted from the +stage,—“Let us proclaim throughout all Russia that the time has come for +tearing up evil by the roots!” And the audience responded with frantic +demonstrations of enthusiasm. Speech was free, open, and unrestrained by +police or press censors, and public attention was absorbed by the great +practical issues of the day. The Crimean war had shown the necessity of +constructing railroads, improving roads, and steamboat communication on +the rivers, of developing the natural resources, and had taught them the +lesson that even an efficient army could not be produced from an +ignorant population. Accordingly in current speech and in the public +press different methods of education were discussed, and reforms in all +the branches of the civil service, and as a result of all this they +expected an increase of military power and the consequent respect of +Western nations. + +For the furtherance of these reforming projects, for the reason that +twenty millions of the people, one third of the population, were in a +state of bondage, precedence was given to the question of the condition +of the serfs. There were 100,247 landed proprietors, and of these more +than 41,000 were possessors of less than twenty-one male serfs. A +proprietor who was owner of 500 serfs was not considered very rich, and +there were only 3,803 of these. There were a few whose possessions were +enormous. One of the nobles possessed more than 150,000 male serfs, more +than 300,000 souls; the latter estimate naturally including females, +though the Russians have a popular saying that “Women have no souls at +all, but only a vapor.” Another noble owned more than half a million of +acres of land, another extensive mines, but there were few very rich +families. By far the greater part of the territory belonged to the +state, and one-half of the rural population were state peasants whose +condition differed from the other serfs in that they had more land and +more liberty, and their position was not so precarious. + +Agriculture and the industries languished for the lack of free labor, +and upon the nation’s honor was the stigma of slavery. + +The emancipation law which was signed February 19, 1861, Old Style, or +March 3d as we reckon time, liberated twenty millions of serfs. The +manifesto with which the peasantry is said to have been disappointed, +was read in all the churches and contained these fundamental principles, +to wit:— + +“1. That the serfs should at once receive the civil rights of the free +rural classes, and that the authority of the proprietors should be +replaced by communal self-government. + +2. That the rural communes should as far as possible retain the land +they actually held, and should in return pay to the proprietor certain +yearly dues in money or labor. + +3. That the Government should by means of credit, assist the communes to +redeem these dues, or, in other words, to purchase the lands ceded to +them in usufruct.” + +The domestic serfs should continue to serve their masters two years, and +thereafter they should be completely free, but would have no claim on +the land. The disappointment in the minds of the peasants was in the +disposition of the land. Many desired that all the land should be given +to the Communes, making the emancipation in accordance with traditional +right and their material advantage, instead of which they were still to +pay dues on land they believed to be their own by right. The Noblesse +were well pleased with the manifesto. + +After a delay of three months, “Arbiters of the Peace” were appointed, +to regulate the future relations between the proprietors and peasantry +and in the interval cases of insubordination were frequent, and even +riots, when order was preserved by the calling out of the troops. The +“Arbiters of the Peace” when organized restored order and regulated the +land question, issued charters, etc. between the proprietors and serfs, +legalizing the new agreements, with or without their consent. In this +reconstruction many differences were to be reconciled owing to the +distrust of the freed serfs, but gradually they came to know the +situation better and to help in the progress of the work, which has +advanced slowly but surely, notwithstanding the complaints in some +instances of the Noblesse, through the wonderful tact of the +conscientious “Arbiters of the Peace.” + +The law relating to the dues was as follows:—The dues were capitalised +at six per cent and the Government paid at once to the proprietors +four-fifths of the whole sum. The peasants were to pay to the proprietor +the remaining fifth, either at once or in installments, and to the +Government six per cent, for forty-nine years, on the sum advanced. This +arrangement was willingly acceded to by the proprietors but the peasants +were so backward in their payments, that in most cases their fifth had +to be remitted. + +Of this gigantic, though gradual, reform the Tsar Alexander II. is +acknowledged by all to be the chief and most energetic and judicious +promoter. He was ably assisted by his brother the Grand Duke Constantine +and the Grand Duchess Helena, a German Princess, aided by the Noblesse +and the landed proprietors, who when assured that emancipation was +inevitable joined enthusiastically in its execution, and also by the +peasantry of the better sort as soon as they comprehended the advantages +of the law which gave them back their original status in the social +scale, and made them once more personally free. + + + AFTER EMANCIPATION. + +It was so-called freedom in 1861, but they had to serve as they had done +for two years longer, for the law had a provision enjoining them to obey +and work as hard as of old until some new arrangement should be made. On +appealing to the authorities the field work was executed, after a +fashion, but the harvest suffered for a few years, until the peasants +began to realize the burden of the taxes they were obliged to pay on the +land, as well as support themselves, and consented to work in the fields +of their former owners for a moderate compensation, taking advantage of +the scarcity of labor, and taking their leave on a word or two too much +from their employers, who are dependent upon them. Previous to +emancipation it was said that the Russians had little or no practical +acquaintance with pauperism, but now some became fugitives, and made it +a permanent condition of life, wandering through the cities and villages +as professing pilgrims or beggars, and were supported by the alms giving +of the merchants, the public generally and the monasteries. + + + THE RURAL COMMUNES. + +The government of the Rural Commune or Mir, as established by the Act of +Emancipation, is by a Village Assembly and a Village Elder, but the +Elder’s authority is limited by the heads of households, all having a +common responsibility and paying a fixed sum into the common treasury; +even the time of planting, mowing and harvesting, being regulated by the +Assembly, and all the households are equally responsible for the taxes +and dues. The consent of the Assembly must be obtained if a peasant +desires to work in the larger towns, for his liabilities must be made +secure. + +Every year the Village has to pay a certain sum into the Imperial +Treasury, according to the number of male peasants; each Village +distributing the land, according to its own judgment, with taxes and +dues in proportion to the land, sometimes according to the working power +of the families, which may change every few years, males and females +alike working on the land. + +In the meetings of the assemblies the majority rules, and is decided by +a Court of the members, composed of heads of households of both sexes, +standing in groups out of doors. + +The office of Village Elder is sometimes elective, at others he is +appointed by the landed proprietor. The office is not sought for, the +duties being troublesome and annoying, and the pay small. In the +allotment of the land the number of shares of which may or may not be of +advantage, according to the peculiar circumstances of each, the decision +of the Commune is accepted without demur. Some of these divisions take +place annually, others at irregular intervals. The system compels the +peasant to possess land whether he or she desires it or not. Every +peasant, by the simple fact of his birth, possesses an inalienable right +to a share of the land. + +All that is necessary for their existence, their houses, land, +agricultural implements etc., are exempt from sequestration, and cannot +be taken for debt. The peasants on the land belonging to the state, have +no masters, but are not allowed to change their official domicile. They +pay taxes and dues. Many of them have left the villages and have amassed +fortunes in the cities, still retaining their hold on the land by paying +the taxes. The remaining land belongs to rich nobles, who rarely visit +their estates, and the condition of the peasants is much the same as +that of the state peasants, while others live on their estates. + +Now, forty-three of the forty-nine years have passed, and in January, +1904, the Tsar Nicholas II. grandson of Alexander II., in response to +calls for legislation relative to a new draft of the present code, with +complaints of arbitrary conduct by the administrative machinery from the +highest assemblies to the local committees, stipulates that changes on +three points shall be reserved from discussion, namely, that the peasant +class must remain entirely separate, legally, from the other classes; +that the Commune is to remain untouched by legislation, and that the +peasant lands are to remain inalienable. The autocratic power still +remains supreme. March 3, 1904, for the first time since the +Emancipation of the serfs the anniversary was officially observed +throughout the empire as a general holiday and with special services in +the churches. Thousands stood in the open air, uncovered, in the great +central market of St. Petersburg chanting a Te Deum. + + + DEATH OF ALEXANDER II. + +I was returning to my room in Paris, late one Sunday night in March, +1881, having passed an agreeable evening, first dining at my old +classmate’s, E. D. Boit’s, then listening to some music and meeting some +pleasant people at the house of another artist Mr. G. P. A. Healy, and +last calling with Wad Longfellow upon the Kings, when I heard a newsman +on the boulevard crying out something exciting though I could not catch +what it was. I bought his extra, “le Soir,” took it to my room, and +found that the news was nothing less than this time the successful +assassination on the 13th of the Emperor of Russia. + +It made quite an impression upon me as I thought it over, not only +because I had met the Tsar two or three times, but also from the +interest I felt he had taken in the cause of the Union during our civil +war; that he among the crowned heads of the world had been, if not our +only, at least our out-spoken friend and sympathizer. + +How much in common there was both in the life and death of Alexander II. +and Abraham Lincoln! Each of these men in his own land had been the +originator and bold champion of a plan of emancipation, and each of them +had at length fallen by the hand of an assassin! + +Prince Kropotkin in 1899, gave to the _Atlantic Monthly_ the following +account of the death of the Tsar:— + +“A bomb was thrown under the Tsar’s iron-clad carriage. Several +Circassians of the escort were wounded. Rysakoff, who flung the bomb, +was arrested on the spot. Then, although the coachman of the Tsar +earnestly advised him not to get out, saying that he could drive him +still in the slightly damaged carriage, he stepped out. He felt that his +military dignity required him to see the wounded Circassians, to condole +with them, as he had done with the wounded during the Turkish war, when +a mad storming of Plevna, doomed to end in terrible disaster, was made +on the day of his fête. + +He approached Rysakoff and asked him something, and as he passed close +by another young man, Grinevetsky, the latter threw his bomb at their +feet, between himself and Alexander II., so that both of them should be +killed by the terrible engine. They lived but a few hours. + +There Alexander II. lay upon the snow, profusely bleeding, abandoned by +every one of his followers! All had disappeared. It was cadets, +returning from the parade, who lifted the bleeding Tsar from the snow, +and put him in a sledge, covering his shivering body with a cadet +mantle, and his bare head with a cadet cap. And it was one of the +Terrorists, Emelianoff, with a bomb wrapped in a paper under his arm, +who, at the risk of being arrested on the spot and hanged, rushed with +the cadets to help the wounded man! Human nature is full of these +contrasts.” + +It was at the canal bridge near the Nevski Prospect that the bomb which +shattered the body of the Tsar below the waist was thrown, and he died +within an hour at his rooms in the Winter Palace. It is said that these +rooms and their contents have never been disturbed in the least since +the murdered Tsar left them for his drive. The hands of the clock on the +mantel still point to 33 minutes past 3, the moment the Tsar expired. + + + MONUMENT AT MOSCOW. + +August 28, 1898, a monument to Tsar Alexander II. was unveiled at +Moscow. His grandson, the present Tsar, Nicholas II. issued a ukase +referring to the event and eulogizing the deeds of the deceased, notably +the liberation of the peasants from bondage, which earned him the title +of “The Deliverer,” in the mouth of a grateful people. The closing words +were as follows:— + + + MEDALS MADE HEREDITARY. + + “Wishing to seal more firmly the memory of this historical deed, we + have resolved to make hereditary the wearing and possession of the + medals he conferred upon his co-operators, as a sign of his gracious + acknowledgment of their labors.” + +The Tsar also sent to M. Constantin Pobiedonostseff, Procurator General +of the Holy Synod, the decoration of the Order of St. Andrew, together +with an imperial rescript reminding him that he, of all the close +co-operators with the deceased monarch, alone remained in possession of +the chiefship of the administrative department then intrusted to him. + +The monument was unveiled by Emperor Nicholas II. at 3 o’clock in the +afternoon, in the presence of the Czarina, the Queen of the Hellenes, +the Cabinet, the German and Austrian Ambassadors, deputations from all +the land and naval forces of Russia and the Austrian Uhlans Regiment. + +The entire audience knelt while the clergy recited a prayer in memory of +the deceased. + +At the moment of the unveiling the troops presented arms, and a salute +of 320 guns was fired. Then the troops, with the Emperor at the head, +marched past the monument amid the enthusiastic cheers of the people. + +[Illustration: + + ODESSA, 1899. +] + + + + + CHAPTER TENTH. + EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870. DEMETRIUS GOUBAREFF. RUSSIA AND THE UNITED + STATES. + + “Peace—but the ships of steel increase, + And statesmen watch, perplexed: + What is the thing we folk term ‘peace’? + Where will the war be next?” + —_Edwin L. Sabin._ + + + IN LONDON, PARIS AND NICE. + INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. + +The ideas I give of Europe contained in the following sketch written in +London in April, 1870, came to me from a residence of two years there, +during which time I had been constantly watching events, and had been +thrown with many of the leading statesmen and financiers of the United +States. + +What I pretended to know of the Eastern question, I learned from the +journey I made the previous autumn through Russia, Turkey and Egypt, +with General Banks. It then struck me that it would be well to open the +eyes of the American people to what was passing there as impartially as +possible, as thus far the English accounts had been one-sided. I may +appear to favor Russia too strongly, but the boat in which we made the +journey from Odessa to Egypt, and then through the Suez Canal, was +filled with Russian representatives, persons representing almost all the +Russian interests, and they spoke to us, being Americans, most freely on +these subjects, and in such a way that we were much impressed with the +high ambitions of that empire. It would have been difficult to have made +the journey under more favorable auspices. + +The picture I drew of the future of the United States was very strong, +but the more one lives away from America, the more he appreciates her +greatness, and the position she must surely hold among the nations of +the world, and I thought it good to put the plain facts and statistics +before Europeans as well as Americans. + +This paper, which I offered to the press, did not appear originally in +the form of a contribution, as the war suddenly broke out between France +and Prussia before this was accomplished, but I had copies of it printed +in a pamphlet for private circulation, and in that way it was quite +generally read and discussed. + +I was of the opinion that neither Americans nor Europeans were +sufficiently alive to the position which the United States was destined +soon to hold among the nations of the world, and that they ought to be +diligently preparing themselves for it. + +Having faith that the Great Republic will not only remain undivided, but +increase in territory, population and strength, it logically follows +that she must later be the controlling power. In her, humanity, +commingled together and then reorganized, will practically carry out the +idea of self-government, and such a government, if successful, will be +irresistible. + + + “EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870.” + + “Wars and rumors of wars must be, it would seem, for many years to + come the staple of talk in Europe. Nor is this remarkable, so many + different nationalities and languages, so much intelligence and + energy, and so many shades of ambition being concentrated in a small + space of territory. Thus far in the history of the Old World those in + power have generally sought by arms or state craft to strengthen the + country in whose destiny they were interested. Constant wars have been + the result. + + The principles of international interest, of working in harmony to + develop the resources of the globe, of which perhaps the best exponent + is trade and the necessary concomitant peace, have been unfortunately + considered beneath the dignity of those who by birth, by fortune, or + by talent, have been able to hold leading positions. Happily this is + being changed. The great discoveries of the last fifty years have + given the world such an impulse as it never received before. The + comparative ease of making money and of possessing it in safety, has + caused persons to look after their own interest more than that of + those who chanced to be their rulers. But the process of change is + slow, and emperors and kings are still able to make wars even in + opposition to the will of their subjects. Wars are still not only a + possibility, but a probability, and every one is on the lookout for + them. When there is lack of other business, the cabinets of Europe + will turn their attention to the always vexed question of the balance + of power. + + When newspaper editors are in want of interesting matter to fill their + sheets, they can ever bring out a glowing statement of the Eastern + question, or dilate upon the relations existing between France and + Prussia. + + The map of Europe never ceases to be an entertaining study, and so a + slight review of the present state of affairs there, as seen and + judged by the disinterested traveller, may perhaps offer some points + of interest to those who are unable to make the journey themselves. + + No one nation in Europe, today, seems to have a preponderating + influence over the others. + + + ENGLAND AND FRANCE. + + England and France for a long time the most powerful have not, during + the last ten years, been making any international progress, and if + they have not by this been actually losing their influence, they have + remained in a state of inaction, while others have made great advances + to equal or eclipse them. Nor is there to be seen in them any prospect + of changing their policy. + + England is so much occupied with domestic questions, especially those + relating to Ireland, that she can give little time or thought to + anything else, unless of very great import. + + In France the holding the various discordant elements in check, and + forming out of them a strong and popular government, is absorbing all + the talent of her statesmen. The aggressive enterprises that the + existing government, or rather that its head, has lately undertaken, + have been so fruitless and so doubtfully indorsed by the people, that + it is not probable anything of the kind will again be tried unless + upon an almost certainty of success. + + + PRUSSIA. + + Prussia may with a certain show of reason consider herself the leader, + but her, so to speak, inland position, and the consequent difficulty + of her having great naval or commercial power, prevent her from taking + that place to which her arms and politics might entitle her. Besides + this her relations with both Northern and Southern Germany are in a + preparatory state, and the uncertainty of her future movements, and of + how they will be accepted, is a present point of weakness. She is + recognized to be the strongest German nation, but the smaller + independencies, certain though they may be of becoming eventually + absorbed, are tenacious of preserving their individuality as long as + possible. They hesitate about siding with or against Prussia, and as + she cannot well now press the question, matters are more or less at a + standstill. + + + AUSTRIA. + + Austria cannot, since the Peace of Prague, be regarded as a + first-class power of Europe; she must regain her lost strength first, + and for some time to come she will best attempt this by solidifying + her relations with Hungary, and by infusing more advanced principles + of government into the authorities at Vienna. + + + SPAIN. + + In Spain, affairs are still holding their uneasy course, and the world + looks on astonished at the way the country is taking care of itself; + so many forms of government proposed by so many different candidates + that, in reality, there is next to none whatever, but, to balance + this, a fair amount of contentment among the people. Not knowing what + they wish, the Spaniards drift on very well with what they have. + + + ITALY. + + In Italy, economy is so necessary to preserve the country, that no + thought can be given to any foreign ventures, while at Rome all other + questions are dropped, so long as the Ecumenical Council is sitting + there in state. + + + DENMARK, NORWAY AND SWEDEN. + + Denmark, Norway and Sweden, are engaged in discussing topics of much + local interest, and which may perhaps, result in the unity of the + three nations, but they will have little influence upon the general + march of events in Europe. + + + RUSSIA. + + Russia remains, as the last great nation to be discussed, and here, on + the stepping stone between Eastern and Western ideas and + civilizations, can be found the germs of those movements which if not + immediately forthcoming, will, when they burst forth, startle the + world with their grandeur, and essentially change the features of the + map of Europe. + + The Russian Empire as it exists today,—the Russia of Alexander II. and + Gortschakoff,—the country which has emancipated twenty million serfs + and offered an equal trial by jury to all its citizens, this nation, + which, day by day is increasing its territory and influence at home, + and which during a civil war in the other hemisphere extended a kindly + though many will say a not disinterested hand to the party which + represented progressive principles, the Russian Empire, the friend of + the American Republic, has many qualities which might justly entitle + it to leadership, but the strange mixture of European and Asiatic + elements in that country, so great in extent and so ambitious of + progress, as interpreted by it, is the cause of a confusion of ideas, + and prevents that unanimity of action which is necessary to insure the + respect and obedience of others. + + Moreover, although the spirit of the people is extremely democratic, + the policy of the government is autocratic, and in the latter part of + this century it is impossible for any but a government founded on + popular principles and supported by the people themselves, to command + the esteem and the envy of the masses in other portions of the + civilized world, and thus to give them laws. The seeds of dominion are + there, but it will take time for them to ripen and bear their fruit. + + + THE EQUIPOISE OF POWER. + + From this slight review of the position of the European nations in + 1870, one cannot help being impressed with the equipoise of power, and + concluding that this itself is a strong guarantee of peace, but, in + reality the peace is not well founded, and cannot be abiding. It is an + armed peace, and as such, may cause the people deep anxiety. Several + millions of men in Europe, today, are wearing the dress and drawing + the pay of soldiers, and all for nothing. Disarming is continually + talked of, but is not being begun, nor will it be, as long as the + nations are mutually afraid of each other. The pursuits of industry + and commerce, which would develop with increasing force if peace were + secure for ten or twenty years, are now, to a great extent, held in + check. Capitalists are afraid of embarking in great enterprises, as + they know not what may take place before they will be completed. + Thousands of laborers, able-bodied and intelligent, through fear of + being drawn into military service are leaving the lands of their birth + and emigrating to distant shores, there to seek their fortunes: a + great gain to the countries which receive them, but a more than + proportionate loss to those they leave, as their places cannot be + filled. + + One should not seriously wish for war, except in the most extreme + cases, and where the prospect of the good to follow seems more than to + compensate for the immediate evil. + + + LOOKING INTO THE FUTURE. + + Without admitting this to be the case now, but believing that the + present peace cannot, from the press of circumstances last many years, + let us look a little into the future, and try to divine where it will + be first broken, and what will be the results. It is to the East of + Europe we must turn our thoughts, and here it seems as if great events + would soon be in motion. The problem to be solved is the dismemberment + of the Ottoman Empire, and the consequent independence of one nation, + and the increase in power of several others. + + The actors in the drama will be Turkey, Russia, Egypt, Greece, and + perhaps the Slavonic portions of Austria, the theatre will be parts of + Europe, Asia, and Africa, and the most interested spectators will be + France, England, and the United States. + + + THE POSSESSION OF CONSTANTINOPLE. + + It must be well borne in mind that the integrity of Turkey has been + guaranteed for many years, if not actually preserved, by the cabinets + of France and England. So many pamphlets and articles have been + written by those representing the interests of those governments on + one side, and so little has been said on the opposite side, that it + has almost become an acknowledged fact that the carrying out of this + idea is necessary for the peace of Europe and of the world. Their + arguments are strong, but will not influence him who visits + Constantinople with an unprejudiced mind. The key to the riddle is the + possession of that city. England and France know that they themselves + cannot obtain it, and this being the case, they are determined to do + all in their power to prevent any other nation from doing so. It is + almost impossible for one who has not been there himself, to form a + fair opinion of what should be the future of that beautiful city of + the East, but once there, the decision is soon reached that it should + no longer belong to the Turks, but to some people, whoever they may + be, who will do justice to the advantages Nature has given it. + + Constantinople is so placed that it is one of the keys of the waters + of the world, and as such it ought to be a great commercial centre. + The city, as it now is, renders this impossible, and the Turks, + judging from their antecedents and their present manner of existence, + are incapable of change. + + A distinguished statesman of the United States (Gen. N. P. Banks) one + day asked the Turkish minister at Washington, if in his country there + were many persons celebrated for their success in finance or business. + + The Minister slowly opened his dark mysterious eyes, and with a + half-amused, half-pitying gaze, replied:— + + ‘Sir, my countrymen know nothing of affairs, the Turks are warriors.’ + + In the quiet answer of that Turk, a man who held not only a high + position in his own country, but had also seen the active life in + America, there is a meaning which one cannot well appreciate who has + not been among the people of whom he spoke. They seem to belong to a + different age and world from ours. They know almost nothing of the + wonderful things every day done in this nineteenth century, and, if + they are told, they take but little interest, and are incapable of + comprehending them. + + As already stated the city of Constantinople, until radically changed, + does not admit of greatness. Some of the civilizing appliances of this + century judiciously put in movement, would soon change the mysterious + city of the Orient, replete with the souvenirs of Constantine and + Mohammed, into a great commercial mart. The past would be sacrificed + for the future, but the sacrifice would be justifiable. Useless + Romance would drop her fascinating garment, and stand arrayed as the + goddess of Practical Progress. + + The question then is, who will begin the work? + + The Turks will certainly not; indeed, their opposition to it will be + so strong that it cannot well be undertaken until they see that their + empire is broken, and that their natural refuge is over the water into + Asia, where they belong. + + The mover of all this will be a nation which has the most to gain from + the results,—Russia, and fortunately a nation fired with the ambitions + of progress, and with sufficient power to be able to carry them out. + The intelligent men of Russia know that it is needful to the dignity + of the nation, as a sentiment, to its safety militarily, and to its + commercial prosperity, to have all the water rights and privileges in + the Black Sea, and in the straits which connect it with those waters + which are acknowledged to be the common property of mankind. Until + this is brought about their machinery is clogged, and for this the + possession of Constantinople is so important as almost to be a + necessity. + + The Russians are already at the work, and the faster it advances the + better. Slowly and steadily since the peace was signed at the end of + the Crimean War, the government at St. Petersburg, deeply humbled + then, is preparing for the struggle which will restore her lost + rights, and give her many additional ones. Day by day, she is + spreading out her net-work of railroads, steamboats, telegraphs, and + post-roads; imperceptibly she is increasing her territory, and this on + principles so judiciously arranged for the conquered, that each fresh + Asiatic horde absorbed, soon becomes as proud of the grandeur of + Russia as if it had always been a part of the empire. Vessels for the + navy and commerce are being built on her northern and southern seas, + and her large inland rivers; her grain-trade is rapidly increasing, + and her rich mines and other resources are being developed. Besides + all this, she has a strong point of safety in the intense feeling of + nationality, daily swelling, which pervades all the Muscovites. In + sentiment the army is a unit, and the entire population of the vast + empire shout wildly on every occasion for the health and prosperity of + the Tsar. + + There may be something barbaric in all this, but it is the stuff out + of which national greatness can be made, and it may cause anxiety to + those countries where such a feeling does not exist. + + + THE COUNTRY OF THE PHARAOHS. + + The nation most interested after Russia, in the division of Turkey, + perhaps as much or even more interested, because her own independence + is the prize she can win, is Egypt, that historic land, which, once + the mistress of the world, but today a vassal, has in the future as + fine a destiny as could be desired. The canal lately opened through + the Isthmus of Suez, has done more for Egypt than fifty ordinary years + might have accomplished. + + It has turned the thoughts of civilized Europe for more than ten years + upon that country; it has kept their attention interested, and the + result has been more than satisfactory. + + Europe has not, in modern days, expected to find much good in the + country of the Pharaohs, but it has found that although matters there + are not what the sanguine might wish, they are still unquestionably in + every point where comparison is possible, very far in advance of + Turkey. + + The infusion of Western ideas into the inhabitants of a land who have + been brought up for centuries to despise them, is no easy task, but + this the Vice Roi of Egypt has been attempting, and with fair success. + He appreciates the age in which he lives as any one who has visited + Cairo can plainly see, and he feels his superiority over the Sultan so + strongly, that he is merely waiting for the time to be ripe, to openly + disobey the orders from Constantinople, and assert his independence. + Many thought, and with reason, that at the opening of the Suez Canal + the time for this action had come, but nothing was then done, perhaps + because the armed force of the Khedive was insufficient for the + attempt, or that having accomplished a great commercial success, he + hesitated risking a military failure, or, more probably still, because + the diplomatic complications were such that he could not make an + advantageous alliance. + + For what is to be done Egypt should go hand-in-hand with Russia, but + at the present time this is a difficult combination to form. + + In constructing the Suez Canal, France has done everything for Egypt, + and the presence of the Empress Eugénie at the opening ceremonies was + the natural culmination of the work. + + An alliance between France and Egypt, strong enough to give France a + foothold in the East, and thereby to checkmate the power of England, + but not binding her to make a rupture with the rulers at + Constantinople on the question of Egyptian independence, would be a + fine thing for Napoleon, but would do Ismail little good. A rational + alliance between Russia and Egypt, each country working for itself and + the other, would be desirable enough, but for this it would be + necessary to give France the cold shoulder, and in return receive her + resentment. + + Russia, France, and Egypt, cannot now combine together. The results of + the Crimean war are not forgotten at St. Petersburg, and, besides + this, the existing relations between Russia and Prussia on other + European questions are such that the former cannot yet offer France a + friendly hand. + + The ambition of Napoleon is boundless, but he knows that the prestige + he would acquire in working out the independence of Egypt, would be + overbalanced by what would fall to the share of the Emperor of Russia. + + England, too, could not keep out of the dispute, and although lately + she has been very silent on the Eastern question, at the moment of + action, regardless of what she has done in the past, and of her + half-promises for the future, she would bring great force to bear, and + in such a way as to derive advantage for herself alone. + + The Austro-Hungarian Empire and Greece have both something to gain + from the dismemberment of the Ottoman Empire, but, in their present + condition, they must move in the wake of others, they cannot lead the + operations. A masterly brain and arm might unite the different + Slavonic elements on the banks of the Danube, part of which now belong + to Turkey, and amalgamate them into the Austrian Empire, but it is + doubtful if this would be a desirable move, for, while it would give + strength in territory and population to Austria, it would tend to + weaken the German element of the country, and this would be fatal if + she wishes to be regarded as the great South-German nation. + + The title of Kaiser of Germans, always has and could still give + prestige, but the same title held by one whose empire was in reality + composed of Slavs, would not, but on the contrary aid the government + of Prussia in its plans of German unity, and unity on a more + democratic basis. Austria’s best course, therefore, would be to take + no active part, but to await the results and turn them as best she + could to her advantage. + + The Greeks and Turks have never loved each other, and while Greece is + too weak for definite action at first, she could later lend a helping + hand in the movements which would result in restoring to her the + provinces of Thessaly and Epirus, which though under the dominion of + Turkey are Greek in everything but the name. Greece thus regenerated, + might again become quite an important country, and with the commerce + which the Suez Canal opens to her with the Indies, take her place as a + growing maritime nation. + + There are no other important moves now apparent in the horizon of + European politics. As mentioned above, the great powers are too much + interested in domestic affairs to be able to give much thought to what + their neighbors are doing. + + It has been expected by many that the continued growling heard both + from France and Prussia, would sooner or later end in open rupture and + war, (The Franco-Prussian war broke out three months later, July 19, + 1870.) but one who watches the course of events closely can see that + while they both say they are ready, neither of them desires to break + the peace. Neither will be the first to sound the alarm, for they both + know they have almost nothing to gain from the result, for, should the + war come, it would accomplish little but the destruction of the lives + of many thousand soldiers. Whichever side was victorious, the boundary + line between the two nations would be but slightly changed. The + existing line is the natural one, for it is the line of language and + race, and, although war could move it on one side or the other, for a + time, it would soon fall back again to the plane from which it + started. The strength of the two nations is so nearly equal that + neither can absorb portions of the other. The Rhine is a German river, + and neither diplomacy nor war can make it French. + + + THE NON-INTERVENTION OF THE UNITED STATES. + + And now, in conclusion, what position should the Government, or rather + the people of the United States, take in relation to the march of + events in Europe? Are we to hold forever to our established principle + of non-intervention, when we conscientiously believe that judicious + intervention would often advance the cause of progress? + + Better at least keep the right of speaking and acting as we please, + but use it sparingly, and never hesitate to give sympathy and moral + aid,—sometimes more helpful than actual assistance,—to the parties in + any struggle which we believe to have justice on their side. + + But when we look into the future, and a no very distant future at + that, and consider that at the end of this century we shall be a + nation of one hundred millions, thinking persons can easily see that + the preponderance of strength in our favor will be so overwhelming, + that non-intervention will be a practical impossibility. The weak of + the earth will come to us for protection, and we shall not wish to + throw them off. + + What a country it will be in 1900! + + One hundred million people, all with a strong sense of liberty, but + not of license; all educated, or desirous and able to become so; all + ambitious, because the highest prizes are within their reach; nearly + all speaking one language: with private fortunes greater than the + world has ever seen, and with the natural resources of the country + then in their flower. + + One cannot dwell upon this prospect without swelling with pride, and + at the same time almost trembling at its very grandeur. + + The mighty Republic of the United States, which sprang into existence + less than a century ago, will be the acknowledged law-giver and + arbiter of the entire world. + + Perhaps at no time has the temptation for us to mix in the affairs of + Europe been so strong as today, because, selfishly speaking, we have + everything to gain and nothing to lose. (It must be remembered that + _every word_ of this article was written in 1870.) A mere spark which + could any moment be struck at Washington would in three months’ time + set Europe in flames. + + An excuse like the Cuban difficulty (The independence of Cuba, + achieved at the close of the century by the assistance of the United + States in its war with Spain), the long pending question of the + Alabama Claims, (Claims of the United States upon Great Britain for + damages by the _Alabama_ and other Confederate cruisers, settled in + 1872, at Geneva, by a court of arbitration.) the relations between the + Sultan and the Khedive, or the foolishness now between France and the + United States about the postal treaty or the Atlantic cable. Any of + these would be sufficient to do the work, and what would be the + result? (The postal union was formed by a congress of delegates + representing the principal governments of Europe and the United + States, assembled at Berne, Switzerland, in September, 1874. A treaty + was concluded establishing a uniform rate of postage for letters of 5 + cents per half ounce.) + + Thousands and thousands of able-bodied men, with no taste for war, and + especially war for the gratification of crowned heads, would seize + every opportunity of leaving their native lands and hastening to + America. It would be impossible to prevent them. + + Millions and millions of treasure seeking safe investment, would find + its way to the United States, and all that is wanted to develop the + country, is hands to work the natural resources and money to pay for + it. + + America would become what England has been for many years, the strong + box of the world. England can be so no more. + + Telegraph communication and steam have put her so near the continent + of Europe, that she can no longer be regarded as a sure land of refuge + for men or money. Nay, it is doubtful if she could actually keep out + of the conflict. The safe must be separated from the combatants by a + broader piece of water than the Straits of Dover. Three thousand miles + are not too much for perfect security. The action of the United States + could bring on any war it wished, but the country itself would have + nothing to fear. Its strength is so great that it could meet fairly in + the field any possible combination of the nations of Europe. The + feeling of animosity between the northern and southern states, which + has existed during the civil war, but which is happily now almost + over, would end in fraternal enthusiasm if the country should engage + in a popular war against any other nation. But the carnage once begun + in Europe could not be carried over the Atlantic, as there would be + enough to keep it there. The United States would be in any case the + attacked and not the attacking party, and modern warfare has arrived + at the point that, other things being equal, the party which attacks a + distant land is almost sure to be worsted. + + What would fall to the lot of the United States would be the business + of the world. The carrying trade of the nations would be done by her, + and the problem of the revival of her shipping be by the action of + others solved. All the merchant vessels which plough the Atlantic and + Pacific oceans, would claim the protection of the Stars and Stripes, + and this means limitless sums of money poured into her treasury, + wealth to the country, and wealth to private individuals. The prestige + of her flag would be such as none ever had before. + + + THE PATH OF PEACE. + + Such is the prospect which opens before the vision of the people of + the United States today. Deeply conscious of our great power, let us + be equally conscious of our responsibility in best employing that + power for the benefit of mankind. Let us remember that our path is the + path of peace, and not that of war, let us endeavor not to be turned + from it by the constant temptations of false glory, for, if we are, we + shall ourselves suffer for it later, and cause others to suffer. + + It is for its to show to Europe, not what advantages can be derived + from war and diplomacy, which are the weapons of the past, but what + greater advantages can be derived from the weapons of the present and + the future,—the weapons of our own peculiar fabrication,—such as the + nobility of labor and universal education and freedom. Only by acting + thus shall we be able to prove to the nations who are even now + ‘hanging breathless on our fate,’ that we truly carry with us a + grander civilization than has ever yet been seen.” + + + FROM A LETTER TO MY SISTER AT MANCHESTER. + +“Club House, Newport, August 7, 1870: I was in Boston yesterday, and had +just about ten minutes at 39 Beacon street, where I found your nice +letter. I am very comfortably established here, in a little apartment +with my friend Bob. Winthrop of New York, and here I mean to have my +headquarters, running off occasionally to New York or Boston and I hope +before long to turn up at ‘Sharksmouth.’ I have been really very much +occupied the last month, what with my own affairs, _la haute finance_ at +Washington and New York, with the thermometer at 90°, and with +occasional visits to my friends, and have been very happy with all the +work. I have my old horse ‘Trumps’ from South Carolina, and he is in as +fine a condition as when I left him, more than two years ago. He reposes +in solitary dignity in the stable. + +Poor Europe in 1870, is terribly changed! + +I am going to print my little article in a pamphlet by itself, with an +introduction suited to the times, and will send you a copy when it +appears. I came to the conclusion that to alter it to suit the ever +changing news from Europe would be impossible, and would really spoil +it, and so I will let it remain as it is as one of my first literary +attempts. + +I have been to Long Branch, and it is the most extraordinary American +political rendezvous I ever saw. + +The war in Europe sickens me, so many thousand poor fellows to be +murdered and maimed for wicked personal ambition. The whole business of +the world is thrown into our hands,—I mean the United States of +America,—if we only take it.” + + + GOUBAREFF THE RUSSIAN. + +Demetrius Goubareff was a very intelligent Russian, to whom I was +first introduced in 1871 or 1872. As a young man he had liberated +his serfs before the emancipation action of Alexander II. and had +been a progressive man in every way. He wrote a book entitled +“Philosophie—Religion.” He had, I believe, taken part in the +Crimean war, and then again in 1879, entered the service of his +country at the time of the later attempt to obtain possession of +Constantinople, which I have been informed was balked only by the +interposition of Bismarck. The matter I thought ought to have been +settled then and there. + +Mr. Goubareff lived much at Nice and Paris, and often visited London. He +kept up an extensive correspondence with many interesting persons. + +He passed Sunday with me at Vevey, Switzerland, in March, 1876, and we +had an excellent chance to talk there quietly and at our leisure. I +found that he was much interested in the “Association for the +Codification and Reform of the Law of Nations,” of which, on my +proposing him, he became a member. I was very glad of this because he +proposed to make a good deal of occupation for himself out of it, +getting acquainted, and opening correspondence with many of the +distinguished persons who were on the list of its members, and would +prove a very valuable addition to the organization. + +The following month in Paris Mr. Goubareff introduced me to the Golovine +family, and we dined with them and strolled together in the beautiful +gardens of St. Germain. + + + RUSSIA AND THE UNITED STATES. + WRITTEN IN BOSTON IN 1873. + + “A good deal has been said and written the last ten years, about the + strong friendship existing between Russia and the United States, the + coquetting, as it has been called, of these two nations with each + other. + + That such an _entente cordiale_ has existed is beyond all dispute, but + the causes of it open a wide field for discussion. + + The nations of Europe who have watched its progress with some evident + alarm for themselves, have come forward with many unasked-for + explanations, to clearly prove that such a thing is out of all reason, + that it should not be, that it is all nonsense, thereby admitting all + the more plainly the ugly fact. Particularly kind and disinterested + have they been in their advice to the youthful United States, warning + her to be careful, lest she be outwitted by the shrewd diplomacy of + the Muscovite Cabinet, telling her that it was all a smart trick on + the part of the Russian government, from which they only wanted to + carry out their own ambitious ends, and this done, they would be ready + at any moment to give the innocent and confiding Americans the slip. + + It is pleasant, as a citizen of the United States to feel what good + friends we have on the other side of the Atlantic,—real friends, + too,—who are ready to come forward, now that we are out of the woods, + to save us from the terrible fate of being killed by too much + kindness. + + Like the almost historic personage who was talked to death, perhaps + there is danger in store for the American Republic of being _advised_ + to death by her older brothers and sisters. + + It does not take an over-intelligent person to see that between a + military autocracy, under the sway of an almost absolute ruler, and a + government of the people, intrusting the management of its affairs + temporarily to its chosen representatives, there cannot be, + theoretically, certainly, much genuine and heartfelt sympathy. This is + superficially the view which any one would take. But deeper reflection + on the traits, or, better still, living among the people of whom such + a comparison is made, will show that this curious sympathy is not by + any means a matter of government alone,—important as that is to aid + it,—but lies hidden in the life of the people themselves, only to be + brought out by a curious combination of circumstances. + + + THE DOUBLE EVENT OF EMANCIPATION. + + At times the spark will be struck, and blaze forth into a great + conflagration. Such a time was the late civil war in North America, + which was the cause of the emancipation of the slaves in the Southern + states, when, to correspond with it, at about the same epoch, but from + entirely different causes, came the liberation of the serfs all + through Russia. + + Alexander II. and Abraham Lincoln then found a bond of fellowship + existing between them, which nothing could break, and the masses in + Russia and in the United States, were only too ready to take up the + double event and magnify it in their feeling to an unlimited extent. + Then many other points of similarity were discovered; the great extent + of territory of both nations, giving each a future in the development + of the resources placed there by nature, whether on the surface of the + earth or under it, which restricted limits had denied to the other + nations of the continent. This same vastness of land, educating many + to be merchants, and farmers, and miners, and railroad owners on a + grand scale, caused a corresponding freedom of thought and + independence of action,—in other words democratized the people who had + come under its influence,—in a way which cannot well be appreciated by + those whose life is passed in crowded cities alone, where the prestige + of courts and the presence of cliques make individuality much less + marked. + + The two nations, the republic and the empire, owned a wide frontage on + the Pacific ocean, which they came in imagination to regard as a huge + lake, and this their common property. Other events, too, at this time + were used with great effect; such as the arrival of the Russian + squadron in America (The Russian fleet in New York, Boston, and San + Francisco in 1863.), the visit of Assistant Secretary of the Navy Fox + in 1866, and that of Admiral Farragut in 1867, (Admiral Farragut was + in Russia the greater part of August in that year, and it was said the + friendship and courtesy of both government and people were especially + marked.) the purchase of Alaska (In 1867, organized July 27, 1868.) + and the return call of the Grand Duke Alexis to the United States. + (The third son of the Emperor Alexander II. of Russia visited this + country in December 1871, and at a banquet Oliver Wendell Holmes + welcomed him with the following words:— + + ‘Bleak are our shores with the blasts of December, + Fettered and chill is the rivulet’s flow, + But throbbing and warm are the hearts that remember + Who was our friend when the world was our foe.’ + + There was a gift to the poor of New York when the Russian squadron + took leave of New York in 1863, a voluntary subscription of $4,760 + from the officers, and during the famine in Russia in 1891, our + government sent over five large steamers loaded with grain collected + from almost every state in the Union.) + + But, supposing there were no characteristics in common, it will not + soon be forgotten in America that, during the long years of the + terrible war, while many of the nations of Europe were clinging to the + policy of keeping an uncompromising but none the less watchful armed + neutrality, rulers and aristocracies in their hearts against the cause + of the North, while the lower classes everywhere went with it, Russia, + of all the great nations, alone came forward, and gave openly its + sympathy to the side which represented a more advanced civilization, + and which as such, in spite of its many disheartening defeats, was + bound to triumph in the end. A person who is hard pressed in life, + when a friend comes up to give him encouragement, does not stop to + reflect why it is given, and try to put a selfish construction on the + offer, he accepts it on the spot, and is not apt to forget the donor + in a hurry. So Americans are not to be easily persuaded that Russia’s + assistance to them at that critical period in their country’s history, + was a mere diplomatic sham and meaningless parade. They are willing to + be ignorant still, if this is so, and need more powerful arguments to + disprove them than have yet been raised by their officious + counsellors.” + + + THE RUSSO-AMERICAN FEVER. + +In the year of my first journey to Russia, 1866, the Russo-American +fever was at its height, and it was a very pleasant thing for those who +caught it when travelling in the other country. They were fêted and +hugged, and wined, and tossed, according to the customs of the people, +and their nationality alone was a sufficient passport to pass them along +the lines of sight-seeing and pleasure, passing unchallenged,—nay, +rather invited in. The entire nation was in the attitude of “present +arms” to him from the other country who desired to pass through on a +tour of inspection. + + * * * * * + + “And the great ships sail outward and return, + Bending and bowing o’er the billowy swells, + And ever joyful, as they see it burn, + They wave their silent welcomes and farewells.” + —_Henry W. Longfellow, The Lighthouse._ + + + FINIS. + +[Illustration: + + PORT SAID. OPENING OF THE SUEZ CANAL. +] + + + + + INDEX + TO + PERSONS, PLACES, AND SUBJECTS + + + Academy of Fine Arts, St. Petersburg, 151. + + Academy of Music, Brooklyn, N. Y., 90. + + Academy of Music, Newport, R. I., 32. + + Admiralty, St. Petersburg, 151. + + After Emancipation, 58, 200. + + Agricultural Exhibition, 174. + + Alabama Claims, 219. + + Alaska, 172, 186, 225. + + Albania, 108. + + Alexander I., 186, 192. + + Alexander II., 77, 81, 92, 94–96, 106, 134, 136–138, 161, 162, 164, + 173–175, 184, 194–197, 200, 211, 216, 222, 224, 225. + + Alexander II., Death of, 203–205. + + Alexander II., Monument, 205. + + Alexandria, 179. + + Alice, yacht, 17–19, 23, 25, 27, 117. + + Allston, Washington, 125–132. + + Andrews, Christopher Columbus, 169, 170. + + Appleton, D. & Co., 146, 153. + + Appleton, Thomas Gold, 17–20, 23, 25, 42, 117, 123, 126, 129–132, 148. + + Appomattox Court House, Va., 62, 64. + + Army of the Potomac, 21, 22, 156, 158. + + Artillery Brigade, 157. + + Artists’ Club, St. Petersburg, 99. + + Ashuelot, man-of-war, 136. + + Asniéres, 24. + + Astor, W. W., 146. + + Augusta, man-of-war, 136. + + Avenue de l’Opera, Paris, 35. + + + Ball, Thomas, 66. + + Baltic Sea, 24, 73, 186. + + Baltimore, Md., 44, 55, 99. + + Banks, Nathaniel P., 160, 168–174, 176, 179, 181, 183, 207, 213. + + Barlow, S. L. M., 145. + + Bartlett, Joseph J., 30. + + Battle of Antietam, 52. + + Beaumont, Sir George, 130, 131. + + Behring Straits, 103. + + Behring, Vitus, discoverer, 103. + + Bellevue Avenue, Newport, R. I., 29. + + Belmont, August, 33, 145–147. + + Bennett, James Gordon, 27, 28. + + Bennett, James Gordon, Jr., 27–29, 34, 36, 159. + + Berdan, Hiram, 173, 176. + + Berlin, 24, 26, 39, 68–74, 167. + + Besborodko, Koucheleff, Count, 93, 141. + + Bicknell, Albion H., 64. + + Bismarck-Schonhausen, Otto Edward Leopold, Prince von, Chancellor of + the Empire, 222. + + Black Sea, 214. + + Bois de Boulogne, 20, 23, 38–40, 111, 162, 165. + + Boit, Edward D., 203. + + Boston, 9, 19, 66, 103, 116, 119, 127, 128, 221, 224. + + Boston Athenæum, 128. + + Boston Board of Trade, 177. + + Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 129. + + Boston Public Library, 141. + + Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, 36. + + Bowditch, Henry P., 158. + + Bowles Brothers & Co., Bankers, 168. + + Bowles, Charles, 34, 168, 177. + + Bowles, Drevet & Cie, Paris, 17. + + Bowles, Robert, 127. + + Boyer, Alexandre, 183. + + Brest, 9, 11, 14, 16, 24. + + Brevoort House, New York, 90. + + Brevoort Place, New York, 89. + + Bric-a-Brac Club, Boston, 148. + + Brighton Road, Brighton District, Boston, 87, 123, 135. + + Brindisi, 179. + + Brown, Edward Ingersol, 132. + + Brown, John Murray, 181. + + Brussels, 24, 26, 39, 68. + + Bullock, Alexander H., 167. + + Burgess, Frank, 9, 16, 23, 39, 84, 122, 144. + + Burlingame, Anson, 165–169, 180. + + Burlington Arcade, London, 85. + + + Café Napolitaine, Paris, 26, 27. + + Cairo, Egypt, 179, 216. + + Cambridge, Mass., 159. + + Cameron, Simon, 50. + + Camp Douglas, 21. + + Carnatz Connection, 106. + + Carolina Filly, 30. + + Caspian Sea, 108. + + Catherine II., 193. + + Caucasus, 186. + + Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia, 129. + + Cercle des Capucines, 38. + + Cercle Franco-Américain, 37, 38. + + Champ de Mars, St. Petersburg, 173. + + Chandler, Zachariah, 168. + + Charing Cross Hotel, London, 20. + + Chase, Salmon P., 55, 64. + + Chicago, 10. + + Chicago Exposition, 66, 129. + + China, steamship, 18. + + Chinese Embassy, 167–169. + + Christmas Day, 81, 92, 98, 103, 113, 114, 122, 132, 133. + + Church of Saint Sophia, 140. + + Church of Sault Isaac, 86, 87. + + Circassia, 83, 85, 92, 108, 142, 145, 147, 204. + + Clark, Arthur H., 17, 18. + + Clay, Cassius M., 82, 94–96, 98, 137. + + Clyde Park, 30. + + Coaching Club, 28. + + Coffey, Titian J., 172, 173, 177. + + Colfax, Schuyler, 65. + + Cologne, 69. + + Commune, France, 36, 37. + + Commune, or Mir, Russia, 201–203. + + Compiègne, 20. + + Comte, Auguste, 181. + + Constantinople, 39, 76, 102, 169, 179, 180, 213–216, 222. + + Copenhagen, 168, 171. + + Corbin, Austin, 29. + + Costume Ball, 144–147. + + Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, 21. + + Country Club, Brookline, Mass., 30, 32, 33. + + Cowdin, Elliot C., 166. + + Cowes, 18, 19. + + Cowes Roads, 18. + + Cracow, 154, 155. + + Crane, Edward A., 182. + + Crimea, 23, 193, 194. + + Crimean War, 193, 194, 197, 215, 216, 222. + + Cronstadt, 97, 136. + + Crowninshield, B. W., 156. + + Cuba, 26, 172. + + Curtin, Andrew G., 168, 172, 173, 177, 180. + + Curtin, Jeremiah, 81, 103, 118, 134, 181. + + Curtis, T. B., 25, 39. + + + Danube River, 181, 217. + + Dauntless, yacht, 29. + + Davis, Tom Kemper, 126. + + De Gogorza, Anthoine, 183. + + De Lesseps, Ferdinand, Count, 164, 165, 179, 182, 183. + + Delmonico’s, New York, 144. + + De Long, George W., 159. + + Demidoff Mines, 87. + + De Richelieu, Armand Emanuel du Plessis, Duke, 178. + + De Trobriand, Philippe Regis, 20, 21, 24, 91. + + Dieppe, 24. + + District of Columbia, 45, 49. + + Dix, John A., 165–167. + + Dneiper River, 185. + + D’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, Duke, Spanish Ambassador, 82, 93, 98. + + Dresden, 25, 106, 155. + + Drexel, A. J., 34, 35, 168. + + Drexel, Harjes & Co., 34, 168. + + Dumaresq, Armand, 37. + + Dvina River, 185. + + + Easton’s Beach, Newport, R. I., 31. + + Elsinore, 170, 184. + + Emancipation, Compensated, 48–50, 60, 196, 197, 199. + + Emancipation, Double Event of, 224. + + Emancipation, Gradual, 48–50, 196, 197. + + Emancipation Law of Russia, Manifesto, 198, 199, 200. + + Emancipation, Proclamation in the United States, 52–54. + + Emancipation, Result of War, 50, 193. + + Emperor of Austria, Franz Joseph I., 182. + + English Channel, 18, 117. + + English Club, St. Petersburg, 134. + + Erlanger, Emile, 183. + + Erlanger, Louis, Count Excelmans, 183. + + Europe and America in 1870, 207, 209–222. + + Evans, Thomas W., 35, 180, 182, 183. + + Executive Mansion or White House, 48, 51, 62. + + + Faneuil Hall, Boston, 41. + + Farragut, David Glasgow, Admiral, 224. + + Fearing, H. S., 145. + + Fetridge, William Pembroke, 34, 36, 38. + + Fifth Avenue, New York, 29. + + Fifth Corps, Army of the Potomac, Union Forces, War of 1861-’65, 156, + 157, 158. + + Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, 63, 116, 157. + + Fifteenth Amendment, 57, 58, 60. + + Fifty-fifth N. Y. Regt. Inf., 21. + + Finland, 186. + + Finland, Grand Duchy of, 186. + + Finland, Gulf of, 97, 172, 186. + + First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, 158. + + First Mass. Cavalry, 16, 156–158. + + Fish, Hamilton, 22. + + Fleetwing, yacht, 27. + + Fogg Museum, Harvard College, 71. + + Folies Dramatiques, Paris, 10. + + Fontainebleau, 162. + + Forbes, Paul, 161, 183. + + Ford’s Theatre, Washington, D. C., 61, 66. + + Forest of Fontainebleau, 42. + + Four-in-Hand Club, 28. + + Fourteenth Amendment, 56, 57, 59. + + Fox, Gustavus Vasa, 36, 135, 136, 185, 224. + + Fox’s Mission, 135, 136. + + Fremont, John C., 47, 48, 50. + + Friederichshamm, Peace of, 186. + + Frog Pond, Boston Common, 85. + + Fugitive Slave Law, repeal of, 55. + + + Gagarine, Julie, Princess, 121. + + Galitzine, Prince, 150. + + Garcia, John, 36. + + Gare de l’ Ouest, Paris, 15. + + Garrison, William Lloyd, 44. + + Gautier, Théophile, 40. + + General Kotzebue, steamship, 179, 182. + + German Club, Moscow, 115. + + Gettysburg, Penn., 64. + + Gillig, Henry F., 26. + + Goddard, Ely, 33. + + Golden Horn, 181. + + Gortschakoff, Alexander Michailowitsch, Prince, 95, 96, 150, 211. + + Gostinny Dvor, Moscow, 108. + + Gott, Daniel, 45. + + Goubareff, Demetrius, 222, 223. + + Grand Duchess Helena, 200. + + Grand Duke Alexis, 225. + + Grand Duke Constantine, 194, 200. + + Grand Duke Nicholas, 174. + + Grand Hotel, Paris, 15, 16, 24, 35, 166. + + Grand Opera, Moscow, 115. + + Grand Opera, Paris, 24. + + Grand Opera, St. Petersburg, 84, 88, 141, 143, 149. + + Grand Prix, Paris, 161. + + Grand Theatre, Moscow, 105. + + Grant, Ulysses S., 65, 66, 173. + + Gray Collection of Engravings, 70, 71. + + Gray, Francis Colley, 70. + + Gray, George Griswold, 28, 33. + + Great Eastern, steamship, 18. + + Greek Church, 181, 182, 188. + + Green, J. Orne, 72. + + Gregg, John I., 156, 157. + + + Hamburg, 168. + + Harvard College, 22, 70, 89. + + Havana, Cuba, 26. + + Hayti, 44, 51. + + Healy, G. P. A., 203. + + Henrietta, yacht, 27, 28. + + Hereditary Medals, 205. + + Hermitage, 84, 151. + + Higginson, Frank L., 17. + + Holland, J. G., 44. + + Holy Synod, 188, 205, 206. + + Hooker, Joseph, 62. + + Hotel de la Paix, 9. + + Hotel Dusaux, Moscow, 103. + + Hudson River, 28. + + Hunnewell, Hollis, 17. + + Hunt, William Morris, 40–42. + + Hunter, David A., 50. + + Hurlburt, William Henry, 145. + + Hyde Park, London, 111. + + + Imperial Library, St. Petersburg, 151. + + Invitation, Note of, 94. + + Isla, 141. + + Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, 216. + + Ismailia, 179. + + Ivan III., 185. + + + Jackson, Charles C., 17, 25. + + Jagellon, Duke of Lithuania, 154. + + Jamaica Pond, Roxbury, Mass., 135. + + Jay, William, 28. + + Jeannette, steamship, 159. + + Jerome, Lawrence, 29. + + Jerome, Leonard W., 27. + + Jockeys’ Ball, 32. + + Johnson, Andrew, 117, 136. + + Johnson, “Ned”, 27. + + Jonesville, East Tennessee, 44. + + + Khedive, 180, 182, 216, 219. + + Kimball, Moses, 66. + + King of Prussia, William I., 161, 164. + + Knapp, A. W., 29. + + Königsberg, 24, 70, 73. + + Kosciusko, Thaddeus, 153, 154. + + Kremlin, Moscow, 103, 105, 107, 108, 114, 116, 121, 187. + + Kremlin, Novgorod, 140. + + Kronborg Castle, 170. + + Kropotkin, Prince, 204. + + Kung, Prince, 166. + + + Lafayette, Gilbert Motier de, 37, 44. + + Lamson, Daniel S., 89, 90. + + Lane, David, 89. + + Lee, John C., 168. + + Lee, Robert E., 21, 52, 62. + + Le Ray, Maurice, 16. + + Lincoln, Abraham, 41–67, 166, 204, 224. + + Lincoln, Abraham, Death of, 61–63. + + Lincoln, Abraham, Statues of, 64, 66. + + Lithuanian Provinces, 74, 194. + + Lockwood, Alfred, 36. + + London, Eng., 17, 23, 39, 120, 207, 222. + + Long Branch, New Jersey, 221. + + Longchamps, 25, 161. + + Longfellow, Charles A., 16–19, 23–25, 26, 38, 39, 69, 70, 72, 82, 84, + 94, 97, 98, 105, 114, 118, 119, 123, 138–140, 142, 148, 151, + 153–159. + + Longfellow, Ernest, 23, 122. + + Longfellow, Henry W., 16, 38, 70, 88, 125. + + Lorillard, George, 36. + + Lorillard, Louis, 36. + + Loubat, J. F., Duc de, 35, 36, 136. + + Louvre, Paris, 23. + + Lundy, Benjamin, 43. + + Lyrique, Paris, 23. + + + Manchuria, 186. + + Manhattan Club, New York, 145. + + Manifesto of Emancipation, Russia, 198. + + Marble, Manton, 145. + + Martin, Augustus P., 157. + + Maximilian, Ferdinand Joseph, Emperor of Mexico, 163. + + Mazourka, 115, 121, 154. + + McClellan, George B., 52. + + McVickar, William H., 28. + + Meade, George G., 156. + + Mediterranean Sea, 179. + + Merrill, T. Watson, 159. + + Mesnil, Baron de, 31. + + Metropolitan, Moscow, 181. + + Metropolitan, St. Petersburg, 137. + + Miantonomoh, monitor, 136. + + Mickiewicz, Adam, 155. + + Mill Dam Road, Boston, 83. + + Mine Run, 156, 157. + + Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Russia, 96, 188. + + Ministry of Public Instruction, Russia, 186, 188. + + Mississippi River, 47. + + Morley, Henry, 19. + + Moscow, 24, 38, 39, 76, 81, 86, 98–103, 105, 114, 116–118, 121, 134, + 139, 176, 177, 181, 185, 187, 189, 194, 205. + + Moscow, gas-lighting of, 152. + + Mount Cenis Tunnel, 179. + + Mount Pleasant, Ohio, 44. + + Muscovy, 187. + + + Nahant, Mass., 18, 153, 159. + + Napoleon Bonaparte, 73, 102, 176. + + Napoleon III., 25, 161–164, 180, 216, 217. + + Narragansett Avenue, Newport, R. I., 32. + + National Museum, Washington, D. C., 67. + + Navy and Army Club, Cronstadt, 97. + + Neva Club, 134. + + Neva River, 39, 84, 85, 108, 137, 151, 153, 184, 185. + + Neva Skating Club, 84, 85, 93. + + Nevski Prospect, St. Petersburg, 83, 87, 111, 134, 205. + + Newfoundland, 18. + + New or Mount Hope Church, Va., 16, 156–158. + + New London, Conn., 29. + + New Orleans, La., 21. + + Newport, N. H., 29. + + Newport, R. I., 16, 28–33, 147, 150, 221. + + Newport, R. I., Beach, 30–33, 121. + + Newport, R. I., Jockey Club, 31. + + New York City, 9, 10, 14, 21, 28, 29, 36, 60, 63, 77, 89, 90, 120, 135, + 136, 166, 221, 224, 225. + + New York Club, 90, 91. + + New York Yacht Club, 27, 28. + + Nice, 207, 222. + + Nicholas I., 95, 192, 193, 194. + + Nicholas II., 202, 203, 205, 206. + + Nisbet, W. F., 153. + + Nobility Club, 115. + + Non-Intervention of the United States, 218–220. + + Norton, Charles B., 183. + + Nottaway Court House, Va., 62. + + Novgorod, 135, 140, 141, 185. + + Nuba Pasha, 182. + + + Odessa, 24, 98, 177–179, 187, 208. + + Oglesby, R. J., 65. + + Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, 67. + + Opera House, Berlin, 72. + + Oriental Quadrille, 144, 146, 147. + + Oscar, King of Sweden and Norway, 170. + + Otis, James, 147. + + Otis, William C., 28. + + Ourousoff, Prince, 31, 121, 150. + + Ourousoff, Princess, 150. + + + Palais Royal, Paris, 10. + + Panama Canal, 29, 37, 164, 178, 183. + + Paris, 9–11, 14–17, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 34–40, 68, 69, 73, 83, 85, 86, + 88, 103, 115, 117, 126, 153, 155, 161–169, 176, 179, 183, 203, 207, + 222, 223. + + Paris Exposition of 1867, 39, 41, 151, 160, 164. + + Passage, St. Petersburg, 85. + + Passage des Panoramas, Paris, 85. + + Patriarch Adrian, 188. + + Patriarch of Constantinople, 181, 182. + + Patriarchal Cathedral, 114. + + Patti, Adelina, 26, 27. + + Paul, Emperor, 191. + + Peabody, George, 152, 153. + + Peabody, S. Endicott, 168. + + Perkins, C. C., 26. + + Peter the Great, 85, 98, 187, 188, 190. + + Peter III., 193. + + Philippe’s, Paris, 39. + + Phœnix, Lloyd, 36. + + Picpus Cemetery, Paris, 37. + + Pierce, Josiah, Jr., 88. + + Place de la Concorde, Paris, 161. + + Place de l’Opera, Paris, 35. + + Place du Nouvel Opera, Paris, 9. + + Plevna, 204. + + Poland, 75, 80, 153–155, 186, 195. + + Polar Sea, 186. + + Pompeiian Villa, 24. + + Pomutz, George, 176. + + Port Said, 179, 182, 226. + + Post, Albert Kintzing, 21. + + Postal Union, 219. + + Post, Waldron Kintzing, 22. + + Prague, Peace of, 210. + + Pratt, Thomas, 36. + + Pré Catalan, 165. + + Presentation, 92, 173. + + Proclamation of Emancipation, 52–54. + + + Raasloff, Waldemar Rudolph, 168, 171. + + Rappahannock River, Va., 63. + + Rescript of Nazimof, 195. + + Review of Troops in France, 161, 162. + + Review of Troops in Russia, 121, 173–176. + + Review of Troops in Sweden, 170. + + Rhodes, 179. + + Rice, Alexander H., 177. + + Rice, A. Thorndike, 146. + + Riggs, Elisha, 36. + + Ristori, Adelaide, 25, 26. + + River Rhine, 218. + + Riverside Park, Cambridgeport, Mass., 115. + + Roberts, Benjamin Stone, 97. + + Rome, 39, 87, 93, 130, 211. + + Rosalie, 123, 125–129, 131. + + Rue Auber, Paris, 36. + + Rue Castiglione, Paris, 176. + + Rue de là Paix, Paris, 9, 17, 24, 35. + + Rue Royale, Paris, 176. + + Rue St. Honoré, Paris, 176. + + Rurik, yacht, 136, original settler, 185. + + Russell, Harry, 32. + + Russia and the United States, 186, 223–225. + + Russian Beggar, 75, 201. + + Russian Horse, 77, 78, 81, 97, 98, 105, 106, 108–113, 115, 120, 121, + 150. + + Russian Navigation Company, 179. + + Russian Sleigh, 77, 78, 81, 83, 87, 94, 105, 120, 149. + + Russian Yacht Club, 84. + + + Saint Cloud, 164. + + Saint Gaudens, Augustus, 66. + + Saint Germain, 223. + + Saint Louis, Mo., 47. + + Saint Michel Theatre, St. Petersburg, 88. + + Saint Petersburg, 17, 19, 24, 38, 39, 72, 74, 78, 81, 82, 91, 92, 96, + 98, 102, 103, 108, 116–118, 121, 122, 132–134, 136, 138, 139, 143, + 145, 152–154, 167–169, 172, 173, 176, 177, 181, 187, 197, 203, 215, + 216. + + Saint Petersburg and Moscow Railroad, 99, 101, 177. + + Saint Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad, 80, 177. + + Saint Thomas, island, 171. + + Samanos, Augustus, 36. + + San Francisco, 10, 91, 124, 167, 181, 224. + + Sargent, Harry, 17. + + Sayles, Henry, 132. + + Scilly Islands, 9. + + Secession of Southern States, 46. + + Serfs, 189–191. + + Serfs, Emancipation of, 192–203. + + Seward, William H., 51, 54, 55, 64. + + Shattuck, George B., 70, 124, 143. + + Sherman, William T., 65. + + Siberia, 191, 193. + + Simpson, Matthew, 62. + + Sixteenth Mass. Infantry, 90. + + Smith, Charles K., 86, 89–91. + + Snead, Thomas L., 48. + + Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D. C., 43. + + Somerset Club, Boston, 22. + + Southwell, Viscount, 32, 33. + + Souworoff, or Suwarrow, Alexander Vasilievitch, Count Rymnikski, 143. + + Spanish Ambassador, St. Petersburg, 93, 98, 99. + + Spencer, Lorillard, 35. + + Springfield, Ill., 62. + + Staigg Portrait, 117, 122, 124, 132, 133. + + Staigg, Richard M., 123, 124, 152. + + Stanfield, Harry, 17–19, 23, 24, 29. + + Stevenson, Robert H., 25, 27. + + Stockholm, Sweden, 167, 169, 170, 180. + + Straits of Dover, 220. + + Strogonoff, Count, 177. + + Suez Canal, 35, 164, 168, 169, 178–180, 208, 215–217, 226. + + Sully, Thomas, 126–128. + + Sultan of Turkey, Abdul-Aziz, 162, 163, 216, 219. + + Sykes, George, 156. + + Synod, Holy, 188, 205, 206. + + System of Government in Russia, 187–189. + + + Talleyrand-Perigord, Charles Maurice, Prince of Benevento, 13. + + Tchudova, 140. + + Thies, Louis, 70. + + Thirteenth U. S. Infantry, 21. + + Thirty-first U. S. Infantry, 20, 21. + + Tilsit, Peace of, 73. + + Tivoli, 152. + + Trumbull, Lyman, 46. + + Tsarskoë Selo, 150. + + + Union Club, San Francisco, 91. + + Union Pacific Railroad, 167. + + United States Treasury, 62, 117, 178. + + Upsala, 170. + + Ural Mountains, 108. + + + Venice, 102. + + Versailles, 23, 36, 98. + + Vesta, yacht, 27. + + Vevey, Switzerland, 222. + + Vice Roi of Egypt, 182, 216. + + Victoria Theatre, Berlin, 70. + + Vienna, 25, 39, 102, 153, 155. + + Ville de Paris, steamship, 9, 14. + + Virginia, 156. + + Voisin, Armand, 36. + + Volga River, 108. + + + Wainwright, Charles S., 62. + + War Department, Washington, D. C., 67. + + Warsaw, 24, 148, 153. + + War with Spain, 172, 219. + + Washburn, Elihu B., 165, 168. + + Washington Club, Paris, 22, 29, 34–38. + + Washington, D. C., 11, 16, 43, 61, 127, 165, 166, 181, 183, 213, 219. + + Washington Heights, 27, 28. + + Waterloo, 26, 39, 68. + + Wayman, Bishop, 65. + + Wheeling, West Virginia, 43. + + Whistler, George W., 98, 99. + + Whistler, James A. McN., 98. + + White Sea, 185. + + Willett, “Bronnie,” 34. + + Wilna, 24, 70, 73, 74, 79. + + Wilson, Henry, 65. + + Winans, Ross, 88, 98, 99, 177. + + Winans, Thomas de Kay, 99. + + Winans, William Louis, 99. + + Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, 95, 121, 134, 137, 149, 173, 205. + + Winthrop, Eugene, 35. + + Winthrop, Robert, 221. + + Wood, Fernando, 168. + + Wordsworth, William, 131, 132. + + Woronzoff, Prince, 178. + + Wright, Frances, 44. + + Wright, Joseph A., 72. + + Wright, Smith, 129, 130. + + + Yacht Club Pond, 84. + + Yacht Club Skating Ground, 141. + + Young, Samuel P., 105. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + ● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 *** diff --git a/79273-h/79273-h.htm b/79273-h/79273-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd64653 --- /dev/null +++ b/79273-h/79273-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10600 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> + <head> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title>Russian Life and Society | Project Gutenberg</title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + body { margin-left: 8%; 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+ clear: both; overflow-x: auto; } + .pageno {font-size: small; background-color:#ffffff; } + div.titlepage {text-align: center; page-break-before: always; + page-break-after: always; } + div.titlepage p {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; + line-height: 1.5; margin-top: 3em; } + .ph1 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; + margin: .67em auto; page-break-before: always; } + .ph2 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; + page-break-before: always; } + .x-ebookmaker p.dropcap:first-letter { float: left; } + </style> + </head> + + <body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***</div> + + +<div class='tnotes covernote'> + +<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p> + +<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p> + +</div> + +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div id='Frontispiece' class='c002 figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt='Longfellow and Appleton' class='ig001'> +</div> +<div class='c001'></div> +<main> +<div class='titlepage'> + +<div> + <h1 class='c003'>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY<br> <span class='large'>AS SEEN IN 1866-’67 BY APPLETON AND LONGFELLOW, TWO YOUNG TRAVELLERS FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, WHO HAD BEEN OFFICERS IN THE UNION ARMY, AND A JOURNEY TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS IN 1869.</span></h1> +</div> + +<div class='c002 figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_title.jpg' alt='An ornamental monogram of the letters "NA" enclosed within a decorative shield-shaped frame.' class='ig001'> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='large'>WITH SKETCHES OF ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> AND ABRAHAM LINCOLN, AND EMANCIPATION IN THE EMPIRE OF RUSSIA AND THE REPUBLIC OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Prepared by</span></span></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>BREVET CAPTAIN NATHAN APPLETON</span></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Author of</span></span></div> + <div class='c004'>“HARVARD COLLEGE DURING THE WAR.”</div> + <div class='c004'>BOSTON, 1904.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c002'> + <div><span class='small'>Copyright, 1904</span></div> + <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>By Nathan Appleton.</span></span></div> + <div><span class='small'>(<cite>All Rights Reserved.</cite>)</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='small'>Press of Murray and Emery Company Boston, Massachusetts</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c002'> + <div>TO</div> + <div class='c004'><span class='large'>PRINCESS J—— G——</span></div> + <div class='c004'>IN PLEASANT RECOLLECTION OF SKATING AT MOSCOW. JANUARY, 1867, THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='c005'>THE AUTHOR</div> +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Boston, 1904.</span></span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='c001'></div> +<nav data-epub-type="toc"> +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>CONTENTS</h2> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter First</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'></td> + <th class='c009'><span class='fss'>PAGE</span></th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Arrival in Paris and Adieu. The Yacht Alice</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Second</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Lincoln and Emancipation</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_43'>43</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Third</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Brussels, Berlin, Königsburg, Wilna</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Fourth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Gortschakoff, Cronstadt</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Fifth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Moscow. The City and Environs. Trotting in Russia</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Sixth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. The Neva. Novgorod. Poland</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_133'>133</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Seventh</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Charles Appleton Longfellow</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Eighth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>France. Last Days of the Empire. To Russia with Gen. Banks</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_160'>160</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Ninth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Emancipation</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_184'>184</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'> </td> + <td class='c009'> </td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Tenth</span></td></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Europe and America in 1870. Demetrius Goubareff. Russia and the United States</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_207'>207</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +</nav> + +<div class='c001'></div> +<nav data-epub-type="loi"> +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c006'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Longfellow and Appleton</td> + <td class='c009'><em><a href='#Frontispiece'>Frontispiece.</a></em></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'></td> + <th class='c009'>OP. PAGE</th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Yacht Alice, Cowes, I. W., 1866</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_018'>18</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Captain, Passengers and Crew of the Alice</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_019'>19</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'><span lang="fr">Rue de la Paix, à Paris</span></td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_024'>24</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_031'>31</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Troika</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_038'>38</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Abraham Lincoln</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_043'>43</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Wilna</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_068'>68</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Statue of Kant, Königsburg, 1866</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_073'>73</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Single Sleigh</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_074'>74</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Nevski Prospect, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_081'>81</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Hon. Cassius M. Clay, Minister to Russia</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_082'>82</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Bolshaja Morskaja (Great Sea Street)</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_086'>86</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Christmas Shopping in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_087'>87</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>The Kremlin, Moscow</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_100'>100</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Drinking Tea</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_104'>105</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>A Coursier</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_110'>110</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>The Staigg Portrait</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_117'>117</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Rosalie</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_125'>125</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>The Blessing of the Neva</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_133'>133</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>The Midnight Drive</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_140'>140</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Skating in the Yousoupoff Garden</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_141'>141</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Circassian Uniform</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_142'>142</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Sledge Drawn by Reindeer</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_151'>151</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Drosky</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_153'>153</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Charles Appleton Longfellow</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_156'>156</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks, Representative from Massachusetts</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_160'>160</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Ferdinand de Lesseps</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_179'>179</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, 1866</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_184'>184</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Odessa, 1899</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_207'>207</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c008'>Port Said. Opening of the Suez Canal</td> + <td class='c009'><a href='#i_226'>225</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +</nav> + +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FIRST.<br> <span class='c010'>ARRIVAL IN PARIS AND ADIEU. THE YACHT ALICE.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Our trusty friend, our true ally</div> + <div class='line in2'>Through varied change and chance:</div> + <div class='line'>So fill your flashing goblets high,</div> + <div class='line in2'>I give you, vive la France.”</div> + <div class='line in22'>—<em>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c012'>I sailed from New York early in October, 1866, +in the French line steamer <em>Ville de Paris</em>, Captain +Surmont. Time about eleven days to Brest. +Cloudy weather, and the last four or five days no +observation, so one morning we found ourselves +near the Scilly Islands, and from there steamed +over to Brest, arriving in the afternoon. I had a +room with Frank Burgess of Boston, whom I then +knew but slightly, and, as we found that we liked +each other and had the same objects in view at +Paris, we went there and took rooms together at +the Hotel de la Paix, since torn down for the Place +du Nouvel Opera, corner Rue de la Paix and the +Boulevard. The month I passed there until going +to Russia was one of my liveliest and pleasantest +in Paris.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The voyage across the ocean was the same old +story so often and often described. There was +the same queer medley of passengers as always, +and they told the same stories they always do, +and passed their time in the same old way. There +<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>was the knowing Yankee buyer, going on his hurried +autumn business tour through Europe, who +gave every one to understand that this was his +forty-seventh voyage across the Atlantic, and that +he knew pretty well how to take care of himself. +He had been in nearly every steamship of every +line between Europe and America, and gave advice +freely as to their relative merits. He always could +tell the exact position of the ship, in fog or shine, +better than the Captain himself, and was most +active in getting up, every day after lunch, pools +on the ship’s run, after which he would rush about +making his “book,” buying and selling tickets to +increase his chances of winning.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Then there was the jolly <em>paterfamilias</em>, who had +been passing the last four months at the Fifth +Avenue Hotel, looking after his investments, and +was now returning, to join his family who were +living in Paris, and who would gladly welcome +him and his full purse. He was always around, +and very attentive to and a great favorite with +the ladies, young and old.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There was the same group of Cubans smoking +cigarettes and talking Spanish together with wild +gesticulations, but keeping aloof from the other +passengers. And, oh! the pretty French actress, +returning for the winter season in Paris at the +Folies Dramatiques or the Palais Royal, fresh +from the applause and bouquets in New York, +Chicago and San Francisco. She was dark, she +was petite, she had arched eyebrows and the +slightest touch of paint under her sparkling orbs. +She never appeared on deck until near dinner +time and then in a lovely toilette, as if she were +just going to take a drive at the Bois. And how +at the concert, organized a few nights before sighting +<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>the coast of <em><span lang="fr">la belle</span></em> France, she charmed all as +she sang some of her opera bouffe songs.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Of course the precocious youth was aboard, going +out for the fourth time to see the Coliseum, and +what wonderful information he imparted to such +listeners as he could get. When the wind was aft +he assured you that the boat was making at least +fifteen knots, and that we should arrive at Brest in +time to take the eight o’clock train for Paris; then, +again, when the wind was dead ahead he consoled +you with the thought that it made the fires draw +well, which was a good thing; but if it struck the +boat on either beam he could conclusively prove +that the sails being well filled the steamer was +steady in her movements, which, after all, was +better than rolling about too fast. If it chanced +to rain he cheered the disconsolate passengers by +stating that it would help beat down the waves +and make the sea less rough! Every day, too, +he seemed to think,—nor did he keep this sagacious +thought to himself,—lightened the ship of +so much coal, and then as for the advantages of +fogs or icebergs, no possible question on the subject +could puzzle him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Pretty girls flitted here and there, or were spread +out in their chairs and looked uncomfortable. +“Swells” gloomily lounged around: enthusiastic +young travellers were always on hand at everything +which turned up in the ship’s management, +especially the throwing the log and taking the +observations, as if determined at the outset to +lose none of their money’s worth of sight-seeing.</p> + +<p class='c013'>A clever lady from Washington was always +posed in a corner of the saloon, a half read novel +in hand, her <em>flacon</em> and fan on either side, and +she herself happy at any time, morning, afternoon +<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>or evening, to enter with you into a long conversation +on any subject.</p> + +<p class='c013'>A French priest and a Western parson kept +theology well argued as an appetizer for your +meals, while in the smoking room the poker party +was going on all through the voyage with scarcely +an intermission.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The bluff old Captain was ever about with a +pleasant smile and word for all, inspiring those +of whom he was the ten-day autocrat, with a +feeling of security by his own solid and comfortable +appearance.</p> + +<p class='c013'>A system for passing the time on shipboard I +found worked very well, and I am only too glad +to recommend it to any who choose to try it for +themselves.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Take your coffee about nine in bed in your +state room propped up with numerous pillows, +then go through the operation of being shaved +if the offices of a Figaro are required, who may +be one of the ship’s stewards. After this a couple +of hours or so may be passed in reading, and for +this a selection of a dozen books or so you may +have had placed on the shelf over your couch, so +that you can choose any one which happens to +suit your mood, or, scratch off your thoughts on +a block of paper, always to be carried on your +travels, thus taking down rambling notes where-ever +you go. Rising about half an hour before +lunch time, you get up an appetite by sniffing the +sea air and chatting with those who are about. +Next comes lunch itself, an important item in +the day, which with its subsequent cigar or pipe +can be made to dispose of nearly two hours. Then +approaches the toughest part of the twenty-four +portions into which day and night are subdivided, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>the time between lunch and dinner. A +hand at poker or <em><span lang="fr">vingt-et-un</span></em> helps it along, a conversation +with some fair one in that favorite spot +behind the wheelhouse is a powerful auxiliary, +and, if nothing else turns up, a lazy novel or a +siesta would annihilate the moments until the +first bell ringing gives the welcome intimation +that the time for toilette is at hand.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Dinner, with or without appetite it makes no +difference for go through the form of remaining +at table you must, would next take its regular +place in the programme, and that and a cigar well +over and digested, you are ready to sit down to +your evening party of whist. Than this there is +no better recreation for passing the hours after +dark, and the selection of a good set of players +at an early stage of the voyage is an important +and not to be neglected duty. Is it not probable +that the great Talleyrand, when he advised the +young man to learn thoroughly this king of games +at cards out of regard for his declining years, +remembered with pleasure the hours he had thus +passed in his journeys by water? So the evening +goes along, the ladies retire, the lights are put out +in the saloon, and the male portion of the community +is free to take possession of the smoking +room, there to sit well into the night and to recount +story after story.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was thus we existed the ten days of our passage, +making pleasant acquaintances in that free +offhand way which gives no binding claim for +future continuance. You meet, you take each +other for what you are worth, you separate, it may +be to see each other again some time, it may be +never, and intimacies under such circumstances +are quickly formed, and as quickly forgotten.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>Before we were well aware of it, so speedily the +last days on the ocean flew by, all the passengers +being well and overflowing with good spirits, the +bright coast of France loomed up before our eyes +in the distance, the green fields could almost be +scented afar off, and there was bustle and activity +in the <em>Ville de Paris</em>. Trunks were being brought +up, and people who did not in the least care for +each other were saying good by a dozen times.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Down goes the anchor with a plunge, the quai +at Brest is swarming with officials and idlers, all +chattering like mad, the tug boat sweeps up before +the <em>douane</em>, we step ashore, and find ourselves in +France.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gay, Gay Paris.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>How the heart of the American beats with joy +whenever he enters Paris, that queen city of cities, +which he regards as almost a second home, feeling +a genuine pride of possession in its beautiful monuments, +its long avenues, its brilliant fêtes, and +all its institutions of instruction and amusement. +And cannot a probable reason why the American +takes to it so much more than to any other foreign +city,—why the asphalt of the boulevard is to him +almost as dear as the flag-stones of Broadway,—be +found in the fact of the <em>real democracy</em> of the +<em>social life</em> in Paris and France? The government +may be a despotism or a revolution: the annoyances +of bureaucracy and red tape are nowhere greater +than there; the petty details of business life amuse +and vex you, but in spite of all, the social life of +the people, whether natives or strangers, is as +free as free can be, provided none of the laws of +the land are broken. You come, you go, you do +this or you do that, you can dine at one o’clock +<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>on beef and cabbage, or at seven on woodcock +with truffles; you can live in a palace or a <em><span lang="fr">cinquième</span></em>; +you can go to the opera in evening dress +or blouse; you can study medicine or you can +study pleasure; you can drive in a four-in-hand +or in a fiacre; you can do everything or nothing: +whoever you are, or whatever your fortune may +be, no one will interfere; your eccentricities will +cause little remark, you will be unmolested, for +all are too much occupied with themselves to pay +much attention to others, and you may be certain +that, do your best to astonish those about you, +it will not be easy to offer them a new sensation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I had been there before,—this was my third +voyage across the Atlantic,—and had seen the +guide-book sights of the city, and congratulated +myself heartily upon the accomplishment, for it +was off my mind and I would be spared from +doing it now.</p> + +<p class='c013'>One is not likely to forget the sensations experienced +during the long drive from the railroad +station to the hotel when first arriving at Paris, +especially if it be after dark, through the brilliantly +lighted streets, across the great squares, full as +they always are of the gayest hearted people in +the world, with apparently nothing to do except +treat life as a continual holiday, and I went +through it again with the freshness of a first visit, +as we were taken the distance which separates +the <em><span lang="fr">Gare de l’Ouest</span></em> from the Grand Hotel, at +which place we had decided to camp for the night, +and leave hunting up some snug apartment until +the morrow. The clock was just striking nine as +the little omnibus came with a clatter and cracking +of whip into the spacious court-yard, and after +supper and a short stroll on the boulevard, I +<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>“turned in,” my imagination picturing in rose-colored +dreams all we would do and see.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Letter To My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Paris, October 22, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Dear Mamma:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>My last note must, I think, have been rather +unsatisfactory, and I hasten to do amends with +a longer one. The fact was that I arrived in +Paris at the Hotel just about half an hour before +the French mail for the Cunard steamer closed, +and I had either to drop just one line to announce +my safe arrival or nothing at all. The voyage +over was, like all, very tedious, and we had pretty +bad weather on the whole. Not knowing where +we were at length we ran into a light on the English +coast, and from there made our way down +south to Brest, where I landed and ran right up +to Paris. I like the steamer better than the +Cunard, she is very fast, and is much more adapted +to the comfort of a gentleman, especially as there +is a cozy little smoking room where you could +play whist in the evenings; also a barber’s shop, +and the state rooms are better arranged. I came +up to Paris with Frank Burgess and Maurice Le +Ray (one of the Newport jockeys of the past +summer, attaché to the French legation at Washington, +who was a passenger on the steamer), and +Burgess and I have taken some very nice rooms.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday morning Charlie Longfellow (Charles +Appleton Longfellow, late lieutenant in the 1st +Mass. Cavalry, wounded at Mt. Hope Church, +Va., Nov. 27, 1863. He was the son of the poet +Henry W. Longfellow, who married my half-sister +Frances, so was my half-nephew, a year +<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>and some months younger than I), and Harry +Stanfield tumbled in upon us, as they had that +very night come over from London, and they +gave us jolly accounts of the doings of the <em>Alice</em> +during the past summer. Brother Tom (Thomas +Gold Appleton) and Arthur Clark (Captain of the +<em>Alice</em>) sail for home the last of the month. Charlie +likes the idea of going off to Saint Petersburg by +and by, so as to get there in the height of the winter, +which time they say is really the best to see the +place, but he wants to stay here a while to brush +up his French. So I think I shall be quartered in +Paris for some little time, perhaps a month, and +pitch right into the study of French, and then +start off with him for the cold regions of Europe.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Tuesday: After writing thus much yesterday +I went round to the bank (Bowles, Drevet & Cie +at that time 24 Rue de la Paix) where I found +your letter awaiting me, and I must say that considering +you had only two or three days you have +managed to pick up a vast amount of interesting +items. The first Bostonian I met was Hollis +Hunnewell. I have seen my classmates (at Harvard) +(Charles C.) Jackson and (Frank L.) Higginson, +and yesterday I called on the Harry Sargents. +The weather is charming now, just right +for driving about, and I hope it will continue so +for a month, when we ought to expect the drizzly +rains which will drive me off. There are so many +from the “Hub” here now that Brother Tom’s +last <em><span lang="fr">bon mot</span></em> is said to be “All Parisians are Bostonians.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span lang="fr">Au revoir.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Yacht Alice.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>The sloop yacht <em>Alice</em> was owned by Thomas +Gold Appleton. She was about fifty feet in length +and was built by Townsend at Portsmouth, <abbr title='Rhode Island'>R. I.</abbr>, +in 1866. When last heard from she was a trader +off the coast of Maine.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The <em>Alice</em> left Nahant July 12, 1866, arrived +at the Needles July 30th, and Cowes Roads July +31st. It was a remarkable trip and faster than +that of any kind of vessel made across the Atlantic +ocean with the then time allowance.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Captain Arthur H. Clark was in command, and she +carried Charles A. Longfellow, the owner’s nephew, +Harry Stanfield, a crew of three men and a Chinese +steward. The owner, then fifty-four years old, +crossed in the Cunarder <em>China</em>, and, joining the <em>Alice</em> +at Cowes, cruised off the French coast and the Channel +islands, see <cite>A Cruise of the Alice</cite> in <cite>A Sheaf of +Papers</cite>, by T. G. Appleton, 1875.</p> + +<p class='c013'>One of the first business despatches sent by the +cable across the Atlantic, the <em>Great Eastern</em> having +successfully landed the cable at Newfoundland +on July 27, 1866, was the safe arrival of the <em>Alice</em>, +by C. A. Longfellow.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The owner thus addresses the beautiful yacht +in his collection of poems called <cite>Faded Leaves</cite>:</p> + +<div id='i_018' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_018.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>YACHT ALICE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Away! the cloven waves unite</div> + <div class='line'>Behind in murmuring braids of snow,</div> + <div class='line'>And seething whispers of delight,</div> + <div class='line'>As through the glassy fields we go;</div> + <div class='line'>And curtseying with a grace her own</div> + <div class='line'>Her bows of beauty in reply,</div> + <div class='line'>The white-winged creature moves alone,</div> + <div class='line'>Swan-like between the wave and sky.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Farewell, dear friend, my floating home;</div> + <div class='line'>A menacing finger in the sky</div> + <div class='line'>Bids us through summer seas to roam</div> + <div class='line'>No more, and from harsh winters fly.</div> + <div class='line'>Sleep! dreaming of the violet deep,</div> + <div class='line'>And think of us and happy hours,</div> + <div class='line'>While we through icy nights shall keep</div> + <div class='line'>Thoughts of the sails that once were ours.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div id='i_019' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_019.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>CAPTAIN, PASSENGERS AND CREW OF THE ALICE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The yacht wintered at Cowes and was brought +back the next spring.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From Brother Tom in London.</span></h3> +</div> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Many thanks, my dear Naty, for your letter +and the one enclosed. I would have been sorry +to have missed it, as it is from an old friend, and +in peculiar circumstances, and it would not have +been well to have the letter go astray. And +thanks for yours, too, though only announcing +your arrival, and a sketch of your plans. You +will do well to take Charlie and Harry if they will +go, and in the winter Saint Petersburg must be +fine, though after all not much beyond in cold +splendor dear old Boston. I am reading a new +book on Russia, by Henry Morley, and find much +in it interesting. Today is so dark no one is up, +and I am writing alone.... Who should be here +but Townsend, my boat builder. He could not +be quiet, hearing so much of the <em>Alice</em>. Tell +Charlie he has gone to Cowes. Don’t you wish +you loved yachting, and could have had the nice +time we have had? It beats fancy wagons and +top boots, I assure you.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Remember me to Charlie and Harry and bid +them take care and be prudent and get into no +scrapes.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>Farewell and prosper, and do not leave your +whiskers in the snows of Russia.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Yr. aff. brother, T. G. Appleton.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c017'>Charing X Hotel, 25th October.</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>To my mother I wrote again from Paris, October +26, 1866, Friday:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>I give you a short letter now which will make +two for this week, enough certainly to satisfy the +most rapacious of mothers! I have got pretty +well settled into my life here now, of which one +very important object is the study of French. +I take a lesson every morning from a very good +teacher, and go to a theatre most every evening, +and I think I shall make rapid progress, in fact, +as we ought to know a good deal before starting +for Russia, it is advantageous to stay here a month +and pitch into it. I have got quite a nice little +French phaeton, with which I can rattle about +the town, and drive up to the Bois in the afternoon, +and the great difficulty is to find a decent horse +to hire; my own at home being so very superior +my taste has been quite ruined. I saw all the +Imperial cortège out yesterday driving, but I +think they all go to Compiègne soon, so that the +season won’t begin here for some time.</p> + +<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand is here, and I handed +him his commission, whereat he was in great +doubt whether to go home or no. He wants to +accept the commission of colonel of the 31st +Infantry <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr> Let me know anything you +would like to have me get you in Paris. I can +easily find time to get it. Exchange is so different +from when I was here before (On leave of absence +on account of wound during the war.) that one +can well be extravagant.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General de Trobriand.</span></h3> +</div> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand, author of <cite><span lang="fr">Quatre ans de campagnes +à l’armée du Potomac</span></cite> (<cite>Four Years in the Army of +the Potomac</cite>) 1867, Paris, Bruxelles, (translated) whose +full name is Philippe Regis Denis de Kerodem, Baron de +Trobriand, was born near Tours, France, June 4, 1816. In +the United States he was known as Philippe Regis de +Trobriand. From 1849 to 1861, in New York, he was +editorially connected with first the <cite>Revue de Nouveau +Monde</cite>, of which he was publisher, and then the <cite>Courrier +des Etats Unis</cite>, as associate editor. In August, 1861, he +was placed in command of the 55th New York Regiment, +<abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr> of the Third Corps, promoted to Brigadier General +in January, 1864, and from May to June of that year had +charge of the defenses of New York City. He was brevetted +Major General <abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr> April 9, 1865, and was in +command of a Division at Lee’s surrender. In 1867, he +was made colonel in the Regular army and placed in command +of the 31st Regt. U. S. Infantry, brevetted Brigadier +General in the same year, commanding the district of +Dakota, and in 1869, was transferred to the district of +Montana and the colonelcy of the 13th U. S. Infantry. +Later he was ordered to Green River.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I visited him at Camp Douglas, near Salt Lake City, in +October, 1870, and had a good opportunity of observing +western army life and the institution of Mormonism. The +camp was prettily placed on the slope of a hill, with +quarters comfortably arranged. Several of the officers +had their wives with them which made quite a little +society. I stayed in the General’s house and had a horse +at my disposal whenever I wanted to take a ride, and so I +explored some of the picturesque and grand scenery of the +neighborhood with the snow capped mountains quite near. +To go into the city we generally took the headquarters +wagon and did the thing in style.</p> + +<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand was the father-in-law of my friend +and classmate Albert Kintzing Post, so naturally our +relations were most friendly, and I have often met him on +both sides of the ocean. He was in New Orleans in 1875, +during the reconstruction period, after he retired from +service on account of age, having been stationed there for +some years.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1885, during the Cotton Exposition I lunched with +him at his house in New Orleans, and met him and some +<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>friends one day at the grounds, where we strolled about, +and had a picnic repast under the trees. In 1887, at +Paris I saw him again. It was in the summer, and at my +suggestion he joined the “Franco-American,” known first +as the “Washington,” Club, and he enjoyed dining there +at the <em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em> with agreeable companions.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The General came on to Class Day at Harvard, to hear +the poem delivered by his grandson Waldron Kintzing +Post, the son of my old classmate, when he graduated in +June, 1890, to attend the “spread” and other festivities, +and then one evening we had a little family dinner at the +Somerset Club. After passing a few days at the “Masconomo,” +Manchester-by-the-Sea, with his daughter and +her family, he went to the Reunion of the Society of the +Army of the Potomac, at Portland, Maine, July 3d and +4th, where he was enthusiastically received by the comrades +of his old Corps the Third, and elected vice president +of the Society to represent the Third Corps, Army of the +Potomac. At that meeting I was elected a vice president +in behalf of the Fifth Corps, it being the custom to elect +every year, in addition to the president, vice presidents +and other officers of the society, a vice president from each +army corps that was in the Army of the Potomac.</p> + +<p class='c013'>My last meeting with General de Trobriand was at the +wedding of his grand daughter Lina Beatrice Post to +Hamilton Fish Webster, at the Long Island summer home +of the Posts. This was the autumn of 1891, and a pretty +wedding it was in the little church, and a breakfast later +under a large marquee. Of the grandparents of the +young couple present at the wedding, besides General de +Trobriand, there were Mrs. Armand de Macarty, grandmother +of the bride, and the Hon. Hamilton Fish, grandfather +of the groom.</p> + +<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand died at the home of his daughter +in Bayport, Long Island, July 15, 1897.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Hotel de la Paix, Paris,</div> + <div class='line in8'>October 31, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I have been calling on several of our good old +Boston citizens, but have not found many of them +<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>at home. I went to the Louvre the other day, +and found that lots of new galleries had been +added, with all my friends of the French school +put together, and I reveled in Watteau, Boucher, +and Fragonard. I do not do much sight-seeing, +and don’t care to, but tomorrow I am going out +to Versailles with a party of ladies to finish up +the chateau. This afternoon Charlie Longfellow +goes with me driving in the Bois. Yesterday +evening Charlie, Stanfield and Burgess and I went +to the “Lyrique” and saw Faust very well put +upon the stage. It was the first time I had ever +seen or heard the opera, and I thought it very +fine. Charlie and I shall start off for Russia probably +in the course of a month, as we are not in +any hurry and we are to find out about what will +be the best season to be there and then hit it. +Charlie is studying his French very industriously, +and oddly enough he has tumbled into the very +same rooms that Erny (His brother Ernest Longfellow.) +had a year ago. I got a letter from brother +Tom at London, a few days before he sailed. He +seemed in good spirits over the triumphs of the +<em>Alice</em>.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Friday Morn: Yesterday I had a very good +though somewhat fatiguing day at Versailles, and +I should have enjoyed the pictures very much if +I could see them by degrees; but there are so many +millions that one glance at them was all you could +get. Some of those illustrating the wars of the +present emperor in the Crimea, Italy and Algeria, +are very fine. We had a young French “swell” +to chaperon us, and of course saw all the best +things, such as the private apartments of the +Louis’ and Marie Antoinette. I visited with +Charlie, on Wednesday, Jerome Napoleon’s Pompeiian +<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>villa, which is now a concert room and well +repays a visit. I don’t think the Pompeiian +magnates themselves had anything quite up to it. +Charlie and H. Stanfield still keep up their yachting +fever and go to Asniéres on the Seine quite +near Paris, and sail in a small yacht which some +French count whom they met at Dieppe, has +placed at their disposition. The de Trobriands +leave for Brest in a few days, to pass the winter +there as the General wishes quiet to finish his +book before rejoining the army.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Later: Resolve in Favor of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Here I am at my desk, having finished my +French lessons, and having written a long business +letter, to find something to put upon paper +in reply to “No. 3.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Boulevard and the Rue de la Paix with +the Grand Opera and the Grand Hotel are just +opposite, and below in the streets there is a continual +excitement of passing objects; vehicles and pedestrians, +soldiers and beggars, but principally Americans. +There is always so much going on all around, +that our apartment is not, perhaps, the best +adapted for the quiet pursuit of literature. You +see I am still in Paris, and perhaps you wonder +whether I mean to leave at all. Know then that +Charlie and I have made a vigorous resolution to +pack up and be off the 25th of this month, stopping +at Brussels, Berlin, Königsberg on the Baltic, +and Wilna, to Saint Petersburg, and then Moscow, +thus seeing the real winter life of the Russians. +I think it will be a plendid trip. From Moscow +we may go to Odessa, etc., but this is very doubtful, +and we shall probably return viâ Warsaw to +Dresden, where we separate—I for Vienna, and +he back to Paris.</p> + +<div id='i_024' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_024.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p><span lang="fr">RUE DE LA PAIX À PARIS</span></p> +</div> +</div> + +<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span></div> +<blockquote> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='sc'>A Review by Napoleon III.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Thursday Eve: A few days ago, Charlie Jackson +drove out with me to Longchamps, where the +Emperor had quite a large review of the troops +around Paris. There were, perhaps, fifteen thousand +troops there, and as it was the first thing of +the kind I had seen in Europe, it was very interesting +and imposing, and brought back something +of the old military ardor. The Emperor and +Prince were there, but Napoleon looked rather +shakey. He is no longer young.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I saw Mr. T. B. Curtis for a few minutes yesterday +and thought he was seeming quite well after +his sickness. He told me particularly to “go it, +while” I was “young,” adding that he “had had +his time.” His advice is certainty good. At the +American chapel last Sunday were crowds and +crowds of people, but very, very few whom I +recognized. The same day Robert H. Stevenson +and I went to the last races of the season, and saw +a very fair steeple chase, but as it was some ways +out of Paris there were not many there.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Letter from My Mother.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>My mother in Boston wrote me in Paris, Nov. +11, 1866,—... “And Charlie Longfellow is in +Paris! All that is left in Boston will soon find +its way there. I had a very pleasant visit from +your brother Tom last evening, telling me of the +<em>Alice</em>, and of all his doings. Ristori (tragedienne) +has reigned supreme here for two weeks, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>everybody has cried to their satisfaction. I did +not dare to see her for I felt that I should not sleep +for a month after it.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Adelaide Ristori.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>I first saw Adelaide Ristori, mentioned in my mother’s +letter, at the theatre at Havana, in Medea, when I was +there in February, 1868, and I met her and her daughter +Bianca at a reception given at the hotel. Later, in the +summer of 1884, at Paris, I was taken to her apartment by +Mr. Henry F. Gillig, president of the American Exchange +in Europe, and saw her and her husband the Marquis +Giuliano Capranica del Grillo, just as they were preparing +to leave the city for their trip to America. I remember +that the rooms were encumbered with their baggage, +which was in every stage of packing for their departure. +The following winter 1884–5, when I was living at the +Vendome Hotel, Boston, I called upon them at the Tremont +House, and introduced to them Mr. C. C. Perkins, +one of our citizens most prominent in music, art, literature, +etc., who was very desirous of meeting the great tragedienne. +He chatted with her in her native language, as +he had long resided in Italy, and had written several +books when there.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>La Diva, Café Napolitaine.</span><br> <span class='sc'>To My Mother from Paris, Nov. 15, 1866.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Charlie dropped in yesterday just before dinner, +and we decided to start on the 24th, 25th, or +26th, for Brussels, and then have a look at Waterloo; +thence to Berlin to buy fur coats, and so to +Russia. Went to the Italian opera last night and +heard “<span lang="it">Crispino e la Camare</span>” (“The Cobbler and +the Fairy.”) sung by dear little Patti. She has +improved much since I saw her two or three years +ago in America, and quite captivated me. I +should make her acquaintance if I was to remain +<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>long, as she prides herself on being American, +and goes to Mrs. John Bigelow’s soirées. At the +Café Napolitaine later a crowd of Boston men +tumbled in. It is our favorite resort for smoking +our nocturnal cigar,—George Weld, Ned Johnson, +Bob Stevenson, and others. The great talk +is the winter ocean race between three of the New +York Club yachts, the <em>Henrietta</em> (owned by James +Gordon Bennett, Jr.), <em>Fleetwing</em>, and <em>Vesta</em>. (The +<em>Henrietta</em> with her owner on board won the race.) +In that case the <em>Alice</em> will have to be put afloat +again. Well, adieu for a week, and then my last +from Paris.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Adelina Patti, now (1904) Baroness Cederstrom, +was in Boston in 1885, and I happened to be +introduced to her early in that year when I was +living at the Vendome. She was with her second +husband, Nicolini.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The New York Yacht Club.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>May 17, 1866, I was notified that at a meeting held that +day I was admitted a member of the New York Yacht +Club. The yacht <em>Henrietta</em>, owned by James Gordon +Bennett Jr., belonged to the squadron. Bennett’s colors +were a blue diamond and a red crescent on white ribbons.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I once had the pleasure of calling upon Mr. James Gordon +Bennett Senior. It was one Sunday morning, in the +spring of 1872, when I was on a visit to America. I was +strolling up Fifth Avenue with Mr. Leonard W. Jerome. +As we came to Mr. Bennett’s house on the corner of 38th +street, he proposed that we should go in and pay a visit to +the old gentleman, who was then very infirm and evidently +destined not long to live. I was delighted at the opportunity +of seeing him, for although I had stayed with his son +at their fine place at Washington Heights, and often dined +at the city mansion, I had never been able to be introduced +to the father, as he was quite unwell, and generally confined +to his room.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>We were shown up stairs to a small study, where Mr. +Bennett was seated in a comfortable easy chair, in a loose +dressing gown, with a quantity of the daily newspapers +lying around him. We sat there conversing with him +some time, and I remember his speaking of the proposed +plan of rapid transit for New York, and how he had, years +before, advocated the idea in his paper, the New York +<cite>Herald</cite>. He spoke very strongly of the future growth of +the city. It was only a few months after I saw him that +he died.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Four-in-Hand Club.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Near Mr. Bennett’s place at Washington Heights and +the Hudson River the Four-in Hand Club had a house for +several years. I remember driving there for a ball the +autumn of 1870, with Colonel William Jay and a party of +ladies, and then returning through some of the unfinished +roads, nearly upsetting on the way. The Club was started, +as far as I can remember in 1866. I was elected a member +January 20th of that year; the idea of membership being +any one who had a “four-in-hand,” “spike,” or “unicorn,”—three +horses, two in the pole and one on the lead,—“tandem,” +i. e. something different from the ordinary +single horse or pair hitch. I had a tandem at the time. +The president was George Griswold Gray, whom I had +known at Newport. The Club came to an end, but I cannot +say what year. The Coaching or Four-in-Hand Club +of New York has taken its place.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>James Gordon Bennett, Jr.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>My first recollection of meeting Mr. James Gordon Bennett +Jr., was on the deck of his yacht <em>Henrietta</em>, at the +spring meeting of the New York Yacht Club, June 19, +1866.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I had been the guest, on his yacht, of Commodore McVickar +(W. H. McVickar, one of the incorporators of the +New York Yacht Club and its commodore in 1866. He +died in New York, Nov. 25, 1896, aged 78.) when Mr. +William C. Otis was fleet captain, and some time during +the afternoon we paid a call upon the young captain of +the <em>Henrietta</em>. This was in the harbor of New York, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>a very pretty scene it was. Later on, i. e. during the +summer of 1870, on my return from Europe, where I had +often seen Mr. Bennett in Paris at the Washington Club, +he invited me to join a party on his new yacht the <em>Dauntless</em> +at New London, and make the cruise from there to +Newport, which I did.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We were a jolly party,—Lawrence Jerome, Harry +Stanfield, A. W. Knapp and others. With reference to +James Gordon Bennett Jr., in a letter from Newport to the +Boston <cite>Globe</cite> in August 1876, I remarked:—“Newport +certainly owes a great deal this year to the enterprise of +Mr. James Gordon Bennett, in introducing the games of +polo and la crosse, for the afternoon reunions at the polo +grounds have become one of the most delightful features +of the life here this summer, and Mr. Bennett has proved +himself to be as much at home astride of his pony, as he +was not many years ago on the deck of his yacht, when he +gallantly offered his services to the government during the +civil war, (He was with the blockading fleet in his yacht +from 1861 to 1865.) or when he pluckily scudded across +the Atlantic in mid-winter for the great ocean race.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1881 and 1882, I remember dining at his house, the +old Brooks greystone mansion on Bellevue Avenue, Newport, +where he entertained with generous hospitality, as +also, at his New York home, Fifth Avenue corner of 38th +street. He had a fine, old fashioned family butler, who +seemed to take delight in looking after the comfort of his +friends and guests. The last time I was in the New York +house was at lunch with the Austin Corbins, who had then +rented and afterwards purchased it. This was in 1886. +Austin Corbin, financier and philanthropist was killed by +being thrown from his carriage at his country place at +Newport, N. H., in June, 1896, aged 69.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In Paris too, I would occasionally meet Mr. Bennett, +and he generally made some enquiry about the Panama +Canal.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Polo and Horse-Racing.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>What I have seen both of polo and horse-racing +has made me consider them both, if not actually +cruel sports for horses, at least those in which +a great deal of unnecessary hard treatment is +inflicted upon the poor animals who try to do +<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>their best. In polo they seem to be jerked about +indiscriminately, and whacked over the head and +body by the polo mallets. In running races the +use of the whip and spur is often an abomination. +I have seen a horse straining his utmost and at +the same time receiving the cruel blows of the +whip in a way which might naturally discourage +him from making his best efforts, but which in +addition to this, by cramping his nerves and +muscles, must actually keep him back instead +of leading him on. Often, too, this is done to +some horse so far behind that he can have +no chance of winning the race. I believe horses +are frequently demoralized and even made vicious +from the senseless and inhuman treatment they +receive. To get the best out of a horse you have +only to encourage, not discourage him. He +understands more than we give him credit for.</p> + +<p class='c013'>My only experience as the owner of a race horse +was during the spring of 1866, when I had bought +a very pretty and graceful little animal, which +had the name of “Carolina Filly.” She had been +secured after the war by General Joseph J. Bartlett, +who sold her to Mr. George W. Weld, from +whom I bought her. She ran under my colors, +blue and silver, once at Clyde Park, now the Country +Club, but was not victorious.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Races on the Newport Beach.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>At 4.30 p. m. on the 30th of August, 1866, there +was a flat race and steeple chase at Newport, at +which 13 horses were entered, and an account of +which appeared in the local press, as follows:—</p> + +<div id='i_031' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_031.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>GENTLEMEN RIDERS OF THE NEWPORT RACE</p> +</div> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Newport has really had another sensation, in fact has +been convulsed to its “head” centre. (Allusion to Fenianism +<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>then very rampant.) Yes, the old town has been +startled by the spectacle of no less a modern invention +than a hurdle race!</p> + +<p class='c013'>“Is Saratoga to do all the racing?” muttered the Newport +Jockey Club, “Are there not greener laurels to be +gathered in other fields? We have no track it is true, yet +we can make tracks. Our horses have not received a +university education, but what of that? <em>We</em> have. We +will show them how to surmount difficulties. We will be +our own jockeys, and risk our own gentlemanly lives. It +shall be neck or nothing.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>So it was settled there should be a race, and for the past +week Fashion has talked itself eloquent over the matter +of hurdles. On Thursday the excitement culminated +when Easton’s Beach, where Channing once drew inspiration, +and where since, the lesser mortals have “drawn +their slow length along” in the moist costume of the sea, +found itself transformed into a race course, and its classic +sands desecrated by the presence of hurdles!</p> + +<p class='c013'>One great charm of the affair was to be its selectness. +Only you and I and our dear five hundred friends were to +know anything about it. It was to be a <em><span lang="fr">bonne bouche</span></em> for +our private eating. Yet, strange to say, five hundred +people never can keep a secret, and the little family party +turned out to be the largest concourse of bipeds and +quadrupeds that Newport has seen for many a day. +Fashion glittered and shone, respectable elderly parties +fairly thrilled with excitement. Newport rich and Newport +poor, stood side by side in every species of vehicle, +from barouche to butcher’s wagon. (There were about +7000 spectators and 500 carriages.) The way in which +most of the horses shied around the hurdles, bolted and +did everything but go over them, was delectable. Yet, +let not the Jockey Club be disparaged. Considering the +circumstances its gallant members covered themselves +with glory,—a few of them were additionally covered +with something of a more clinging nature. One daring +rider (Nathan Appleton) landed on his head, another +(Prince Ourousoff) mingled himself with the sands of the +sea, but all lived to tell the short but moving tale, and the +winner (Baron de Mesnil of Belgium) lived to receive a +silver cup from the hands of the lady (Mrs. Paran Stevens) +who had been most actively interested in the day’s sport. +Thus does beauty reward the brave. In honor of the <em><span lang="fr">fait +accompli</span></em> the Jockey Club will give a fête the beginning of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>next week. (Captain Harry Russell of Narragansett +Avenue was declared winner of the second race, which was +a steeple chase, the first one having been over a flat course +of beach.) Pursuant to this announcement cards were +issued by the Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race, +inviting their friends to the Jockeys’ Ball on Monday, +September 3d, 1866, at the Academy of Music.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Ten Years Later. A Retrospect.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Speaking of horse races in a letter from Newport +to the Boston <cite>Globe</cite>, under date of August +26, 1876, I called to mind the events of ten years +previous:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“We have only to look up the records of ten years ago, +and we will find that then at least, perhaps even long +before, they had taken place. Ah! It was a brilliant season, +that of 1866. We were a jolly crowd, representing +the <em><span lang="fr">jeunesse dorée</span></em> of many nations. There was a young +Russian Prince, several Frenchmen,—one representative +of the old <em>noblesse</em> and another of the Napoleonic regime,—a +sturdy Belgian, and plenty of Americans, some fresh +from the excitement of the war a year before. And we +had races on the beach when many were the mishaps that +befell the riders. One of them, needless to say who, had a +hard-mouthed horse which he could not control, and so, +near the finish, rushing up among the assembled crowd of +carriages he distinguished himself by leaping clear over a +pony-phaeton, in which were two young ladies, and then +depositing himself half-stunned in the sand. The account +of this may be found in the old files of the Newport <cite>News</cite> +but a better souvenir of it still remains for those who took +part, in the shape of a colored print now in the Country +Club in Brookline, which was published by one of the +riders, an Irish nobleman, Viscount Southwell, from his +own sketch, in which he gives a fanciful representation of +the great race for a cup presented by Mrs. Paran Stevens, +the lady who then, as now (1876) presided so graciously +over many of Newport’s hospitalities and festivities, and +whose charming villa could tell many a tale of ‘vanished +summer glory.’”</p> +</blockquote> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Race at Newport.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>The colored print of the race in the Country +Club, by Viscount Southwell, represents the race +as if it was on the turf instead of the sands of the +beach, as was actually the case, but this was to +make it more natural, as it was the only kind of +race to which he was accustomed. In fact racing +on the beach was a new departure, and I have +heard it stated that this was the first one with +“gentlemen riders” which had ever occurred, in +the Northern States at least. He brought in on +the slope of the hill leading down to the beach, +the coach and four-in-hand of Hon. August Belmont, +who had at that time the most correct +equipages to be found in our country. Mr. Belmont +in those days drove occasionally “en daumont,” +i.e. four horses attached to an open +barouche with <em><span lang="fr">postillons</span></em> dressed for summer in +jackets, top boots and tall white hats, as you +see them in Europe.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. G. G. Gray would at times bring out his +open break with five horses, three at the wheel, +then two, and one on the lead, a very fanciful and +effective rig. I must not forget that at the Country +Club there is also a satin programme of the +race, with the names of the horses, their owners +and riders, contributed by some other person. +It makes the affair complete, and it is a valuable +relic of those old days of gayety.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the summer of 1882, Mr. Ely Goddard had +some marvellous turnouts. He had a fancy for +horses of bay and white, like those you see in the +circus, and often call “wishing horses,” and +managed to drive them four-in-hand, unicorn, +three abreast, tandem, a pair, or even one alone. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>It was really remarkable how he could find so +many of these variegated animals to serve his +purpose.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Washington Club.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>As far as I can remember, the Washington +Club in Paris, to which I refer in my recollections +of James Gordon Bennett Jr., was started in the +winter of 1868 and ’69, the idea being to have it +a purely American club, on the same principles +as those in the United States. I was not one of +the incorporators, but joined it shortly after it +was organized, and May 8, 1869, was elected one +of the board of direction.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I hardly know what to say of the Washington +Club, so many souvenirs does it now recall. Mr. +Willett, always known as “Bronnie” Willett, +was the first secretary, and I succeeded him in +the first year, 1869, and continued until 1872. +Mr. W. Pembroke Fetridge and I were the two most +active persons in bringing Americans there, and +having them join as temporary or permanent +members.</p> + +<p class='c013'>While I held the position of secretary I kept +the records very carefully, and one of the notes +regarding membership I have now in my scrapbook +from the pen of Mr. A. J. Drexel, of the +banking house of Drexel, Harjes & Co.:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>3 Rue Scribe, Paris.</div> + <div class='line in4'>January 4, 1869</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Sir.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I am in receipt of the notification of my election to the +“Washington Club.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>After authorizing Mr. Bowles to propose my name, upon +reflecting that my stay here would be so short that it would +be of no use to me to join, I concluded to ask him when I +<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>saw him again, not to do so, and therefore prefer declining +to become a member, altho’ the Club has my hearty +sympathy.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Wishing, however, that one of our firm should become a +member, I beg of you to propose the name of our Mr. +Eugene Winthrop in my place. Hoping this substitution +will be satisfactory to you</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>I remain very truly yours,</div> + <div class='line in12'>A. J. Drexel.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>N. Appleton, Esq.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The first apartment the Washington Club occupied +was a good suite of rooms, well adapted to +its uses at that time, belonging to Dr. Thomas +W. Evans in the Rue Auber, which he offered to +the Club free of rent. They were, however, too +high up, on the third floor, and not quite large +enough, and during the summer of 1869, it was +decided to take an apartment at the corner of the +old Rue de la Paix, by the opening, or rather +the beginning of the Avenue de l’Opera, diagonally +across from the Grand Hotel, the first +floor over the <em>entresol</em>.</p> + +<p class='c013'>When I returned from Egypt and the opening +of the Suez Canal, I wrote my sister in Boston, +December 19th, 1869, “We Americans have just +got into our new club rooms on the corner of the +Boulevard, what was formerly the Rue de la Paix +(Now Place de l’Opera), and a new street cut +through to the Bourse. It is the finest situation +in Paris, and we are in a most prosperous state, +and begin to wonder how we ever got on without +a club before.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>It soon became popular in the American colony, +and a rendezvous for the transient travellers.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Lorillard Spencer was the president, and +Mr. J. F. Loubat the treasurer. I have preserved +the receipt of my payment of 500 francs for membership. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>It is number 7, dated May 28, 1869, +and signed by J. F. Loubat, who at the present +time (1904) is le Duc de Loubat, a title he received +from the Pope.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In New York, on September 28, 1873, he presented +to me his book entitled “Narrative of the +Mission to Russia in 1866, of the Hon. Gustavus +Vasa Fox, Assistant Secretary of the Navy. +From the Journal and Notes of J. F. Loubat.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Wm. Pembroke Fetridge, Mr. Alfred Lockwood, +Mr. de la Chaise, Dr. “Tom” Pratt, Mr. +Sheppard, Armand Voisin, the Lorillards, George +and Louis, Elisha Riggs, John Garcia and Augustus +Samanos, both Cubans, Lloyd Phœnix, James +Gordon Bennett, and others, were active members +of the Club. Indeed the membership included +many noted and rich Americans, with the Minister, +Consul General, and other officials of the +U. S. Government, as honorary members.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At that time there was no restaurant, but reading +and card rooms, a billiard table and bar, and +plenty of American newspapers.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The rooms extended around the corner of the +Boulevard des Italiens. When I returned to Paris +about a week or ten days after the collapse of the +Commune, in May, 1871, I was one of the first to +look in upon the old club, and it was in many +respects a scene of desolation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Versailles troops who came down the Rue +Auber, found it right in their line of shooting, as +they attacked the Communists, and many were +the broken windows and glasses in the different +rooms.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I picked up a lot of bullets, or found them in +the walls, and, knowing how soon they would be +lost or disappear, had them neatly arranged in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>a case under glass, to preserve them, an interesting +relic of the Commune.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Several of us members of the club met there one +afternoon, and were endeavoring in various ways +to be reasonably gay under the circumstances, +when one who was by his family partly related +to France appeared, and thought it was all wrong +for us to be so light-hearted in the day of France’s +trouble. We said, on the contrary, that we +thought we ought all to make the best of the situation, +and so help retrieve the sadness of the past, +and so we did.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The club still exists, and we old members have +been given the privilege of life membership, so +that we can avail ourselves of its rooms whenever +we may happen to be in Paris. This adds much +to the comfort of a sojourn there, as the table +d’hôte breakfast at twelve, and dinner at seven, +were as good as any to be had in Paris, while the +view from the balcony is a perpetual delight.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have often been there since, but the club +name has been changed to that of “Le Cercle +Franco-Américain,” so as to admit persons of +various nationalities.</p> + +<p class='c013'>An interesting album of portraits of the prominent +members, painted by Mr. Armand Dumaresq, +was one of its attractions when I was there in +1887. Mine was very good, and under my name +I had written “le Champion de Panama.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The autumn of 1894, part of September, all of +October, and part of November, I passed in Paris, +to find out what the new Panama Canal Company +proposed to do, and also to place the bronze +marker of the Society of the Sons of the American +Revolution by the grave of Lafayette in Picpus +Cemetery, Paris. While there I noticed the apartment +<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>of the Franco-American Club was closed, +and was told how it happened to be so, but that +the members could go to the “Cercle des Capucines” +nearly opposite, on the other side of the +boulevard of that name. I went there one afternoon, +and sent up my card, and was cordially +received by my old friend, William Pembroke +Fetridge, Lynch, Davis, and others, and Fetridge +invited me to dine with some of them which I did.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Sunday, November 18, 1866.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“I have received this last week your nice letter +of October 30. I read it to Longfellow, and he +was pleased to hear so much of Charlie. He +says, ‘Do caution the boys to guard their ears +and noses in going to Russia. They are frozen +before one is aware of it, and once thoroughly +chilled you never recover from the effects.’</p> + +<p class='c013'>Monday evening: I have been to Cambridge +again today. Your ‘Brother Henry’ (Longfellow) +has seen a Russian gentleman who tells him +November is too early in the season to go there.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother from Paris, November 21, 1866.</span></h3> + +<div id='i_038' class='c004 figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_038.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>TROIKA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>This is my last from Paris for some time. I +tear myself from the distractions and gayeties, +from the Bois and the dance, to meet the frantic +embrace of the Russian bear. I am quite crazy +about the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg trip, my anticipations +are so high, and we long so to be off, and every night +I fall asleep dreaming of driving troikas with +three horses about the streets of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg +and Moscow, skating the American touch on the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>Neva, endless flirtations with Russian Princesses +and Polish Countesses in the salons and boudoirs +of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. All this, too, is a <em><span lang="fr">terra incognita</span></em>, +and our life is not all cut and dried for us, +as in Rome or Paris. My plan is this,—to pass +the winter just where it will be agreeable, <abbr title='Saint Petersburg'>St. P.</abbr>, +Moscow, or Vienna, or perhaps a trip to Greece +and Constantinople, with the Carnival in Venice, +but <em>certainly</em> return to Paris in April for the Exposition, +and London for the season, and then to +America early in the summer. However, if you +want me to come, if you feel nervous or unwell, +don’t hesitate a moment to write me, and I can +easily and without regret turn about. On Saturday, +at five, I leave Burgess alone, much to his +regret, and Charlie and self go to Brussels, where +we arrive just exactly in time for the “revelry +by night,” a peep at Waterloo, if not too cold, +and then on to Berlin to congratulate Bismarck +on the state of Europe, through Poland to Russia, +a journey of a few days only. You will be +pleased to know that I have not yet lost your +little package for Eliza Carnatz, and I doubt not +that it will reach her in safety. On Friday I +dine at the T. B. Curtis’s, and on Wednesday with +Weld and a lot of men at “Philippe’s.” Have +you ever heard about my horses, if they are well? +I trust they will do the winter comfortably. +Don’t you want me to bring you home a nice little +French “Victoria” this summer, instead of the +old family ark? (The old family carriage imported +by my uncle Samuel Appleton and after his death, +in 1853, taken by my father.) As to the Bois, I +can safely say that if I had my Boston turnout +here complete there would not be a prettier one +in Paris.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>Thursday: I am reading now with my French +teacher, Théophile Gautier’s <cite>Voyage en Russie</cite>, +and find it most entertaining and instructive, +particularly as he gives a <em><span lang="fr">couleur de rose</span></em> account +of the winter amusements.... I take up my +pen for the third time to finish this, but you know +there is never the least opportunity of doing anything +in Paris, or even of finishing what is begun, +and except my weekly letters to you I have +scarcely written at all. My groom has just been +amusing himself with packing up some of my +traps, as I have one good sized trunk to leave in +Paris full of summer clothes, which I don’t think +I shall want, and odds and ends I have picked +up here.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Received an invitation yesterday from the +Bishop of Pennsylvania, to confer with him on +matters of importance for the church in Paris.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Adieu to Paris.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Today is dull and dreary out, but except for +the Bois it makes little difference in P.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I leave my phaeton, etc., at the Bank. I am +going to try to find William Hunt, the artist, +today. Well, I close and take this to the mail. +Adieu to Paris and <em><span lang="fr">mes beaux jours—en route</span></em>!—Russia +and the North! Love to all.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>William Morris Hunt.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>While he lived I regarded William M. Hunt +as the first American artist, certainly in the line +of portrait painting. I wanted for a long time +to possess one of his pictures, and I would have +<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>liked to have had him paint my own portrait, +but I never had the opportunity of doing so.</p> + +<p class='c013'>One day in 1866, just before he was to sail for +Europe, I went to his studio, and after some talk +with him, he said he would let me have the head +of Lincoln, which he had painted as a study for +the full length portrait now in Faneuil Hall, for +eight hundred dollars, currency. I agreed to purchase +it and the bargain was made. He told +me that he wanted to take it with him to Paris, +that he might exhibit it at the great Exhibition +of 1867, and I was pleased at this, and readily +acceded to it, as I thought the portrait would +have an additional interest and value from having +been there. It was understood that I should not +pay for the picture until it was delivered to me, +and a bill of sale was made out to this effect. I +afterwards saw the portrait both at Mr. Hunt’s +studio at Paris, and also in the American department +of the Exhibition, where it attracted considerable +attention, and I gave myself no concern +as to when I should own it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It so happened that the painting never came +into my possession before my financial troubles +in 1872, and after that, of course, I no longer +thought of having it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>After his death by drowning (He was found +dead in the water.) at Appledore, Isles of Shoals, +N. H., Sept. 8, 1879, his widow, the late Mrs. +Louisa D. Hunt, was very disinclined to part +with it, and so I never pressed my claim. According +to a provision in her will a large number of his +paintings and charcoal drawings were sold at public +auction and the Lincoln portrait was reserved at +the sale in February, 1898, at the request of the +Government. Mr. Hunt was a curious man, brilliant, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>full of eccentricities, and very fascinating +in certain moods. His age was only fifty-five +when he died.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Regarding the portrait I received the following +note, dated May 5, 1866:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Appleton,</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>If you would like my portrait of President Lincoln you +will please let me know or Mr. Jere. Abbott. My price for +it is $800. I should like the privilege of taking it to England +with me, and will return it to you in a few months in +case you desire it.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Yours truly,</div> + <div class='line in16'>Wm. M. Hunt,</div> + <div class='line in20'>16 Summer <abbr title='Street'>St.</abbr></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>In care of Abbott & Howard, Kilby <abbr title='Street'>St.</abbr>, Boston.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>There was at the time I refer to, 1865–1866 +(It was on the list at the sale.), a beautiful landscape +of the Forest of Fontainebleau I ought to +have bought, but did not. I once had in my +collection of paintings one which had belonged +to my brother, T. G. A., a small picture, with a +church in the background, and in the foreground +several sheaves of wheat, and peasants returning +to their houses from the field, with the light of a +setting sun. It had the touch and the glow of +the master.</p> + +<div id='i_043' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_043.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>ABRAHAM LINCOLN.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SECOND<br> <span class='c010'><span class='sc'>Lincoln and Emancipation</span></span></h2> +</div> +<h3 class='c014'>ABRAHAM LINCOLN</h3> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'>“All merit comes</div> + <div class='line in4'>From braving the unequal:</div> + <div class='line'>All glory comes from daring to begin:</div> + <div class='line in4'>Fame loves the state</div> + <div class='line in4'>That, reckless of the sequel,</div> + <div class='line'>Fights long and well, whether it lose or win.”</div> + <div class='line in26'>—<em>Eugene F. Ware</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I have always regretted that I never had the +privilege of making the acquaintance of President +Lincoln. I remember having met him one summer +at Washington during the war, as he was driving +to the Soldiers’ Home,—a few miles out of the +city where he passed the hot season,—in an open +carriage with an escort of cavalry, which was a rare +sight for a President of the United States, until the +requirements of war and the treasonable elements +which pervaded society in Washington seemed to +make such a precaution advisable. This was civil +war with its unseen dangers in the nation’s capital. +I can just remember his sad face, which appeared +full of the responsibilities of the situation, as he +drove along.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Lincoln and Emancipation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The antislavery movement in the United States, +began in the mountains of the South by Benjamin +Lundy, of Wheeling, West Virginia. He published +a paper called “The Genius of Universal +<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>Emancipation,” first at Mount Pleasant, Ohio, +afterwards at Jonesville, East Tennessee, and in +1824, he removed it to Baltimore, Md.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1825, Miss Frances Wright, a youthful and +enthusiastic philanthropist, established ten miles +east of Memphis, Tenn., a manual training school, +in which each negro was to be freed as soon as he +proved himself capable of self support. She was a +friend of Lafayette, who was keenly interested in +the plan, but it failed, and she took her slaves to +Hayti, where she settled them on land granted by +the Haitian government, freed them, and left them +there.</p> + +<p class='c013'>All this was before the organization of the New +England Antislavery Society, which was formed in +1832, by William Lloyd Garrison, returning from +Baltimore where he had been associated with +Lundy.</p> + +<p class='c013'>On December 6, 1847, Abraham Lincoln took his +seat in the Thirtieth Congress as a member from the +state of Illinois. He was thirty-eight years of age, +and six feet four inches in height. His character +and principles are thus briefly and truthfully +described by J. G. Holland, in reviewing his public +career:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“He introduced them to a new national life. He +has given them a statesman without a statesman’s +craftiness, a politician without a politician’s meannesses, +a great man without a great man’s vices, a +philanthropist without a philanthropist’s impracticable +dreams, a Christian without pretensions, +a ruler without the pride of place and power, an +ambitious man without selfishness, and a successful +man without vanity.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>His position in the Thirtieth Congress on all the +principal points at issue were of the Whig party, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>and in the second session he began his work for the +abolishment of slavery in the District of Columbia +in which the national capital is situated, by introducing +on the 16th of January, 1849, a measure +which he intended as a substitute for a resolution +introduced by Mr. Gott of New York, instructing +the Committee of the District of Columbia to report +a bill prohibiting the slave trade in the District. +Mr. Lincoln’s substitute provided that no person +not within the District, and no person thereafter +born within the District should be held to slavery +within the District, or held to slavery without its +limits, while it provided that those holding slaves +in the slave states might bring them in and take +them out again when visiting the District on public +business. It also provided for the emancipation of +all the slaves legally held within the District, at +the will of their masters, who could claim their full +value at the hands of the Government, and that +the act itself should be subject to the approval of +the voters of the District. It had also a proviso +to restore to their owners all fugitive slaves escaping +into the District.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Lincoln regarded slavery as property under +the Constitution. Legally he believed slavery to +be right, morally he believed it to be wrong.</p> + +<p class='c013'>On the presentation of this bill Mr. Lincoln had +a considerable number of influential supporters in +the District, but they subsequently withdrew, and +the subject was given up, to be revived again, under +circumstances impossible to be foretold, thirteen +years after.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Speaking in 1859, on the slave power, he said:—“Broken +by it, I, too, may be, bow to it I never +will. The probability that we may fail in the +struggle, ought not to deter us from the support of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>a cause which I deem to be just, and it shall not +deter me. If ever I feel the soul within me elevate +and expand to those dimensions not wholly +unworthy of its Almighty Architect, it is when I +contemplate the cause of my country, deserted by +all the world besides, and I, standing up boldly and +alone, and hurling defiance at her victorious oppressors. +Here, without contemplating consequences, +before high Heaven, and in the face of the world, I +swear eternal fidelity to the just cause, as I deem it, +of the land of my life, my liberty, and my love.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>On March 4th, 1861, Mr. Lincoln was inaugurated +President of the United States, and several of the +slaveholding states rebelled against the authority +of the National Government, passed ordinances of +secession, and with other states joined to them +attempted to gain possession of the national capital, +thereby bringing on the great war of 1861, which +lasted four years, and ended in the preservation of +the Union and the re-establishment of the national +authority over every state and territory.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the effort to reclaim the recalcitrant states +and restore peace to the country, every expedient +was used, and when, by proclamation of President +Lincoln, Congress assembled in extra session on the +Fourth of July, 1861, Mr. Trumbull of Illinois +introduced a bill in the Senate to emancipate all +the slaves in the rebel states.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At that time one-eighth of the whole population +of the United States were colored slaves, located in +the southern portion. They had been held in +slavery two hundred and fifty years, having originally, +and as required thereafter, been brought to +this country in slave ships principally from the +coast of Africa and the brisk and remunerative +traffic still continued. The extra session closed on +<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>August 6, 1861, having lasted but little more than +a month. In the meantime Major General John +C. Fremont having been placed in command of the +Department of the West, with headquarters at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +Louis, on the 25th of July, 1861, contemplating the +restoration of order in Missouri, and the reclaiming +of the control of the Mississippi River, proclaimed +martial law, declared the property of all those who +should take up arms against the United States +confiscated to the public use, and their slaves, if +they had any, were declared free men. In other +words, he proclaimed freedom to the slaves of +rebels, but, fearing that this would alarm Unionists +in the South, Mr. Lincoln desired General Fremont, +as of his own motion, so to modify his proclamation +as to make this freedom apply only to such slaves +as were engaged in the rebel service.</p> + +<p class='c013'>General Fremont had taken this step without +consultation or notice. The President wished him +to conform to a confiscation act passed by Congress, +but Fremont wished the President to order the +change desired, as, if he should do it of his own +motion, it would imply that he thought himself +wrong, stating the difficulties under which he +labored, with the communication with the government +so difficult and the development of perplexing +events so rapid in the department under his command. +This the President did in a despatch under +date of September 11, 1861, in these words:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“It is therefore ordered, that the said clause of said proclamation +be so modified, held and construed, as to conform +to, and not to transcend the provisions on the same +subject contained in the Act of Congress entitled ‘An Act +to Confiscate Property’ ... approved August 6, +1861, and that such act be published at length with this +order.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>Before this order had been received, or on the +day following its date, General Fremont, though +acquainted with the President’s wishes, manumitted +two slaves of Thomas L. Snead of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Louis, +in accordance with the terms of his proclamation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Lincoln believed that the time had not come for +the liberating the slaves of rebels by proclamation, +if he had, the Act of Congress would not have stood +in the way. The Act was the embodiment of his +own policy at that time. He had undertaken to +preserve the Union and the rights of all the states. +A record was to be kept of the slaves of loyal +masters, and for their repayment for them Congress +would provide. Slavery could only be interfered +with as a military necessity, an essential means of +saving the Union. He was assailed on the one side +for being too slow, and on the other for being too +precipitate.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In March, 1862, the following resolution recommended +by President Lincoln passed both houses +of Congress, only a few members of the border +states voting for it:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Resolved, That the United States ought to coöperate +with any state which may gradually adopt abolishment +of slavery, giving to such state pecuniary aid, to be used +by such state in its discretion, to compensate for inconveniences, +public and private, produced by such change +of system.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>Before the close of the session the President +invited the senators and representatives of the +slaveholding states not in rebellion, to a conference +at the White House, at which he admonished them +that if they had all voted for the resolution the war +would then have been substantially ended.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>“If the war,” said he, “continues long, as it must +if the object be not sooner attained (i. e. the restoration +of the Union without disturbance of the +institution of slavery) the institution in your states +will be extinguished by mere friction and abrasion—by +the mere incidents of the war. It will be +gone, and you will have nothing in lieu of it. +Much of its value is gone already. How much +better for you and for your people to take the step +which at once shortens the war, and secures substantial +compensation for that which is sure to be +wholly lost in any other event.... I do not +speak of emancipation at once, but of a decision at +once, to emancipate gradually. Room in South +America for colonization can be obtained cheaply, +and in abundance, and when numbers shall be large +enough to be company and encouragement for one +another, the freed people will not be so reluctant +to go.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The time for the voluntary abolishment of the +slave system was at any date previous to 1900.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In this session slavery was abolished in the +District of Columbia, completing the work begun +in 1849, and recognizing the two principles of +colonization and compensation. This session also +passed the confiscation act by which the traitor to +the general government forfeited his slaves, as well +as any other property, and Congress decided in +advance, that the slaves thus confiscated and held +by the government should be declared free.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Then the public at the north, these measures +having been enacted, demanded a sweeping proclamation +of emancipation. The antislavery element +clamored for swifter and more radical recognition, +aroused and sustained by the eloquence of +the spoken and written word.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>These were the clarion notes of Whittier’s +“Voices of Freedom”:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“If we have whispered truth</div> + <div class='line in4'>Whisper no longer:</div> + <div class='line'>Speak as the tempest does,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Sterner and stronger.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Still be the tones of truth</div> + <div class='line in4'>Louder and firmer:</div> + <div class='line'>Startling the haughty South</div> + <div class='line in4'>With the deep murmur.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>To which the President made reply:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“What I do about slavery and the colored race, +I do because I believe it helps to save this Union, +and what I forbear, I forbear because I do not +believe it could help to save the Union.... I +intend no modification of my oft-expressed personal +wish that all men everywhere could be free.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>He understood that his oath of office stood in the +way of the present accomplishment of that wish, +but that for the preservation of the Constitution +and the Union measures otherwise unconstitutional +might become lawful. That to preserve +slavery he could not permit the wreck of government, +country and constitution all together. He +objected to General Fremont’s order of emancipation +because he did not then consider it a necessity. +He objected to the arming of the blacks, as suggested +by the Secretary of War, Simon Cameron, +for the same reason; also to an attempt by General +David A. Hunter for a military emancipation, +believing as he did in compensated emancipation. +But the border states, toward whom he had fulfilled +his whole duty, turned a deaf ear to his +expostulations, and by this attitude relieved him of +further responsibility toward them.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Colonization.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>Congress placed at the President’s disposal a sum +of money to be used for experiments with the +colonization of the blacks, his choice of location +being the Spanish American republics of Central +and South America. In August, 1862, he invited +a representative company of negroes to visit the +White House and address him on the subject; the +President asserting his conviction that both the +whites and negroes would suffer by living in association +with each other. He offered them the benefit +of the fund intrusted to him for the purposes of +colonization. But the Spanish American republics +protested against black colonies in their midst. +Liberia and Hayti only would receive them, and +the blacks were not disposed to emigrate to those +countries, and so that project faded as all such +projects have failed in relation to sending the +colored population out of the country. The President’s +plan was one of benevolent solicitude for a +race which he hoped to make self-reliant and +independent.</p> + +<p class='c013'>And it came to pass, that in the midsummer of +1862, President Lincoln called a meeting of his +Cabinet and laid before them a draft of a proclamation +of emancipation, which involved the freedom +of all human beings held in slavery in the United +States, amounting to four millions then living, and +affecting untold millions then unborn, and revolutionizing +the social status of more than a third part +of the nation, but the Secretary of State, William +H. Seward, while approving of the proclamation, +opposed its issue at that time, immediately after so +many reverses, and advised its postponement until +it should have some military success to support it, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>that it should not have the appearance of an appeal +for help. So the proclamation waited until the +invasion of Maryland brought on the battle of +Antietam resulting in the victory won by McClellan, +when Mr. Lincoln brought forward his second +draft of the instrument,—even then a preliminary +proclamation,—which was issued on the 22d of +September, 1862, the battle having been fought on +the 17th; Mr. Lincoln being reported as saying that +he made a resolve that when McClellan should drive +Lee over the river he would send the proclamation +after him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>This proclamation declared free the slaves of +those states, and those sections of states, which +should be in rebellion on the 1st of January, 1863, +thus affording an opportunity for all rebel states +which wished to preserve their ownership of slaves, +to do so by returning to their allegiance to the +Federal Government.</p> + +<p class='c013'>September 24, 1862, the President issued a proclamation +suspending the writ of <em>habeas corpus</em>, as +the ordinary processes of law were not sufficient to +restrain disloyal persons from hindering the execution +of a draft of militia, which had been ordered, +and from giving aid and comfort to the insurrection. +This suspension lasted for two months, or until the +22d of November, 1862, and persons held in military +custody were released on parole.</p> + +<p class='c013'>On the 1st of January, 1863, the final proclamation +of emancipation was issued. It was as +follows:—</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Proclamation of Emancipation.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Whereas, on the twenty-second of September, in the +year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, +a proclamation was issued by the President of the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>United States, containing, among other things, the following, +to wit:</p> + +<p class='c013'>“That on the first day of January, in the year of our +Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all +persons held as slaves within any state, or designated part +of a state, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion +against the United States, shall be then, thenceforward +and forever free, and the executive government of the +United States, including the military and naval authority +thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of such +persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such persons, +or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their +actual freedom. That the Executive will, on the first day +of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the +states and parts of states, if any, in which the people +thereof respectively shall then be in rebellion against the +United States; and the fact that any state or the people +thereof shall on that day be in good faith represented in +the Congress of the United States by members chosen +thereto at elections wherein a majority of the qualified +voters of such state shall have participated, shall, in the +absence of strong countervailing testimony, be deemed +conclusive evidence that such state, and the people thereof, +are not then in rebellion against the United States.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, President of the +United States, by virtue of the power in me vested as +Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Navy of the United +States in time of actual armed rebellion against the authority +and government of the United States, and as a fit and +necessary war measure for suppressing said rebellion, do, +on this first day of January, in the year of our Lord one +thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, and in accordance +with my purpose so to do, publicly proclaimed for the full +period of one hundred days from the day first above +mentioned, order and designate, as the states and parts of +states wherein the people thereof respectively are this day +in rebellion against the United States, the following, to +wit:</p> + +<p class='c013'>Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana (except the parishes of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +Bernard, Plaquemine, Jefferson, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> John, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Charles, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +James, Ascension, Assumption, Terre Bonne, Lafourche, +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Marie, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Martin and Orleans, including the city of +New Orleans), Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, +South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (except the +forty-eight counties designated as West Virginia, and also +<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>the counties of Berkely, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth +City, York, Princess Anne, and Norfolk, including +the cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth, and which excepted +parts are for the present left precisely as if this proclamation +were not issued).</p> + +<p class='c013'>And, by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid, +I do order and declare that all persons held as slaves +within said designated states and parts of states, are, +and henceforward shall be free, and that the Executive +Government of the United States, including the military +and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain +the freedom of said persons.</p> + +<p class='c013'>And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be +free, to abstain from all violence, unless in necessary self-defence, +and I recommend to them that in all cases, when +allowed, they labor faithfully for reasonable wages.</p> + +<p class='c013'>And I further declare and make known that such persons +of suitable condition will be received into the armed service +of the United States to garrison forts, positions, +stations and other places, and to man vessels of all sorts in +said service. And upon this act, sincerely believed to be +an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon +military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of +mankind, and the gracious favor of Almighty God.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my name, and +caused the seal of the United States to be affixed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Done at the City of Washington, this first day of January, +in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred +and sixty-three and of the</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>[<span class='fss'>L. S.</span>] Independence of the United States the</div> + <div class='line in12'>eighty-seventh,</div> + <div class='line in40'>Abraham Lincoln.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in8'>By the President.</div> + <div class='line'>William H. Seward, <em>Secretary of State</em>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>In the cabinet meeting to which the preliminary +proclamation was submitted, by request of Mr. +Seward the words “and maintain” were inserted +after “recognize” in the third paragraph of that +document in the second paragraph of the final +proclamation, the President in his wisdom, having +omitted the words, as it was not his way to promise +more than he was sure he could perform, and he was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>not prepared to say that he thought he was able to +maintain this. Thus the story is told on the best +authority.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Another paragraph is said to have been written +by the Secretary of the Treasury, Salmon P. Chase, +who had prepared a proclamation from which the +President only selected the sentence beginning +“And upon this Act,” and ending with “Almighty +God,” with the exception of the word “sincerely” +and the phrase “upon military necessity” which +are the President’s own. It is said that Mr. Lincoln +voluntarily revealed the authorship of the +words attributed to Seward and Chase.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Slaves Still Held in Loyal States.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>By this proclamation of emancipation the loyal +slave states were allowed to retain the institution +of slavery, which was secured to them by the Constitution, +and in order to reach them certain articles +of amendment to the Constitution of the United +States must be acted upon by the legislatures of +the several states, three-fourths of the number of +which would make the articles valid. No servile +insurrection or tendency to violence marked the +execution of the provisions of the proclamation +relative to the arming of the negroes.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At the session of Congress beginning in December, +1863, the Fugitive Slave Law was repealed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At the national Republican convention which +met at Baltimore, June 8, 1864, and nominated +Lincoln for re-election, one of the resolutions +advocated a constitutional amendment abolishing +slavery. Another declared that the government +owed protection to all its soldiers, without distinction +of color, and at the session of congress which +<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>opened the following December, an amendment to +the Constitution was passed abolishing slavery in +all the states. It needed now to be adopted by the +vote of the states, and the necessity was pressing, +for in order to place in their hands a weapon of self-defence +against re-enslavement the negroes must +be given the right to vote.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Constitution of the United States. Fourteenth Amendment.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Article XIV. Section 1. All persons born or naturalized +in the United States, and subject to the jurisdiction thereof +are citizens of the United States and of the state wherein +they reside. No state shall make or enforce any law +which shall abridge the privileges or immunities of citizens +of the United States; nor shall any state deprive any person +of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law, nor +deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal protection +of the laws.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Section 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among +the several states according to their respective numbers, +counting the whole number of persons in each state, +excluding Indians not taxed. But when the right to vote +at any election for the choice of electors for president +and vice-president of the United States, representatives +in Congress, the executive and judicial officers of a state, or +the members of the legislature thereof, is denied to any +of the male inhabitants of such state, being twenty-one +years of age, and citizens of the United States, or in any +way abridged, except for participation in rebellion or other +crime, the basis of representation therein shall be reduced +in the proportion which the number of such male citizens +shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one +years of age in such state.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Section 3. No person shall be a senator, or representative +in congress, or elector of president, or vice-president, +or hold any office, civil or military, under the United States, +or under any state, who, having previously taken an oath, +as a member of congress, or as an officer of the United +States, or as a member of any state legislature, or as an +executive or judicial officer of any state, to support the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>constitution of the United States, shall have engaged in +insurrection or rebellion against the same, or given aid or +comfort to the enemies thereof. But congress may, by a +vote of two-thirds of each house, remove such disability.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Section 4. The validity of the public debt of the United +States, authorized by law, including debts incurred for +payment of pensions and bounties for services in suppressing +insurrection or rebellion, shall not be questioned.</p> + +<p class='c013'>But neither the United States, nor any state, shall +assume or pay any debt or obligation incurred in aid of +insurrection or rebellion against the United States, or any +claim for the loss or emancipation of any slave; but all +such debts, obligations and claims shall be held illegal and +void.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Section 5. The congress shall have power to enforce, +by appropriate legislation, the provisions of this article.</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The Fourteenth Amendment was proposed to +the legislatures of the several states by the thirty-ninth +congress on June 16, 1866, and after delay +caused by withdrawals of ratifications and of rejections +of ratifications by many of the states, on July +28, 1868, it was announced by the Secretary of +State that it had become valid to all intents and +purposes, as a part of the Constitution of the +United States.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Constitution of the United States. Fifteenth Amendment.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>Article XV. Sect. 1. The right of citizens of the United +States to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United +States, or by any state, on account of race, color, or previous +condition of servitude.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Section 2. The congress shall have power to enforce +this article by appropriate legislation.</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The fifteenth amendment was proposed to the +legislatures of the several states by the fortieth +Congress on February 27, 1869, and was declared, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>in a proclamation of the Secretary of State, dated +March 30, 1870, to have been ratified by the constitutional +number of states, and to have “become +valid to all intents and purposes as part of the +Constitution of the United States.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>After Emancipation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The history of the war shows that one hundred +and seventy-eight thousand nine hundred and +seventy-five negroes, took part either in the army +or the navy of the United States, and the losses these +troops sustained from sickness, wounds, killed in +battle and other casualties incident to war, were +sixty-eight thousand one hundred and seventy-eight.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The war was over in the spring of 1865. Then +came the reconstruction period, and in 1876, the +Democratic party, most influential in the Southern +States, unqualifiedly accepted in its national platform +all the results of the war, including the war +amendments to the Constitution.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yet, while the race progressed with marvellous +rapidity through educational facilities eagerly +sought for, and secured to them from private and +public sources, the condition of the freed slaves and +their descendants has not improved so materially as +was anticipated.</p> + +<p class='c013'>President Lincoln’s solicitude has not been +proven false or exaggerated, “both the whites and +negroes” <em>have</em> suffered “by living in association +with each other.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The tendency is to divide the whites from the +blacks, the whites avoiding those sections where +the races are placed on an equality in labor. The +large plantations are being let out to colored tenants +<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>while the landlord seeks a more congenial environment +in the cities, the poor whites seeking occupation +in the manufacturing industries which have +arisen and are being developed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It is asserted that the number of counties in the +South in which the negroes outnumber the whites, +counties containing the best cotton, tobacco, rice +and sugar lands, has risen from 237 in 1860, to 279 +in 1900, and that within these counties there are, on +the average, 130 negroes to every 100 whites, and +that in 1860, there were 71 counties in which the +negroes were more than twice as numerous as the +whites, which number in 1900, had increased to +108, and 92 per cent of the colored race is found in +the states which were in rebellion in 1861.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Notwithstanding the investment with citizenship +which was supposed to remove from the slave the +disqualification of having no standing in court, +from the time of emancipation to the present, negro +lynchings in the southern and western portions of +the United States have shocked the civilized world +by their frequency and cruelty; victims of both +sexes having been burnt at the stake without any +pretense of a form of trial, while local juries were +unwilling to indict or condemn those who thus transgressed +constitutional law.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Fourteenth Amendment has been virtually +annulled, and the white vote is apportioned on a +fictitious representation, and based upon a black +majority.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Measures, more or less disguised as to their purpose, +have been passed by several southern states, +tending to disfranchise the negroes, showing an +inclination to gradually return to former conditions, +until they have once more assumed their original +bold attitude, and in the Fifty-eighth Congress, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>which assembled December 7, 1903, notice was +given that the United States Senator from Tennessee +would introduce a bill for the repeal of the Fifteenth +Amendment, “with a view to a permanent +solution of the vexing negro question, by eliminating +the enfranchised negro as a political factor.” +It was said that the Senator would be supported by +every Southern member in Congress, and not a few +members of other sections of the Union. An ex-governor +of Virginia was quoted as saying in New +York, that there is only one solution, and that is +that the Nation must recede from its position on +negro suffrage, and plans to that effect have been +announced in several southern states.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>An Appeal to the Country.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>On their own behalf, in a mass meeting held in +Boston, November 7, 1903, forty years after Emancipation, +and three years after the outside limit of +time, 1900, set in the resolution recommending the +co-operation of the Federal Government in the +gradual abolishment of slavery, with compensation, +passed in March, 1862, the following appeal, involving +the rights of 10,000,000 colored people of the +United States, was addressed to the country by the +Boston Negro Suffrage League:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“We appeal to the conscience of the country to rally to +our help, to restore to us rights bought by us with a great +price, the price of nearly three centuries of faithful service +and of blood shed by us in four wars. We appeal to the +American people in their strength, to have regard for us +in our weakness, and to grant us fair play and equal +opportunities with others, to make the most and the best +of ourselves in their midst. We call upon a Christian +nation to treat us as fellow Christians, as human beings. +We implore a boastfully free republic to save us from +<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>re-enslavement, to mete out to us even-handed justice, +and to throw over us everywhere the impartial protection +of her laws and Constitution.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Death of Lincoln.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“So he grew up, a destined work to do,</div> + <div class='line in2'>And lived to do it: four long-suffering years.</div> + <div class='line'>Ill-fate, ill-feeling, ill-report, lived through,</div> + <div class='line in2'>And then he heard the hisses changed to cheers,</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The taunts to tribute, the abuse to praise,</div> + <div class='line in2'>And took both with the same unwavering mood:</div> + <div class='line'>Till, as he came on light, from darkling days,</div> + <div class='line in2'>And seemed to touch the goal from where he stood,</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A felon hand, between the goal and him,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Reached from behind his back, a trigger prest—</div> + <div class='line'>And those perplexed and patient eyes were dim,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Those gaunt, long-laboring limbs were laid to rest.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The Old World and the New, from sea to sea,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Utter one voice of sympathy and shame!</div> + <div class='line'>Sore heart, so stopped when it at last beat high,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Sad life, cut short just as its triumph came.”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>—<cite>London Punch</cite>, May 6, 1865.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Re-elected President of the United States for +another term of four years, and having seen the +termination of the war, Abraham Lincoln died in +Washington by the hand of an assassin. He was +shot by J. Wilkes Booth, a member of a family of +actors, in a private box of Ford’s Theatre, a few +minutes past ten o’clock on the evening of April 14, +1865, and was carried across the street to a private +house, 516 Tenth Street, where he died at 7.22 the +next morning without recovering consciousness. +Reverent and devout by nature, his utterances had +often impressed the people with a sense of his own +<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>firm reliance on the Divine arm. “I have been +driven many times to my knees,” he once remarked, +“by the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere +else to go. My own wisdom and that of all +about me seemed insufficient for that day.” So +when the bewildering news of his death burst upon +the world, that was the characteristic most forcibly +brought to mind, and “God lives” was the chosen +message flashed over the wires from a high state +official to quell the tumult of indignation which +thrilled every corner of the great Republic. At his +obsequies the funeral procession was so long that the +head of it had begun to disperse at the Capitol, before +the rear had passed the Treasury Department +on its way from the Executive Mansion.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At the cemetery in Springfield, Illinois, where he +was buried May 4, 1865, the procession being under +the immediate charge of Major General Joseph +Hooker, Bishop Simpson quoted his words spoken +in relation to the slave power, in 1859, beginning +“Broken by it, I, too, may be, bow to it I never +will.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Personal Recollections.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>On the evening of April 16th, just before sunset, +when the news of the assassination came to our +camp, during an exhausting march from Appomattox +Court House after Lee’s surrender, to guard the +railroad at Nottaway C. H., a courier rode up with +a despatch for General Charles S. Wainwright of +whose staff I was a member, announcing the event +in a few words.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The effect upon us was tremendous, we could not +believe that it was true, and I thought at the time +that it must lead to some uprising or revolution. It +was a shock to both soldiers and citizens that they +<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>could hardly realize. But his work was done, his +life was complete, and he was allowed to die in all +the glory and dignity of an unselfish triumph.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In a building corner of Broadway and 10th Street, +New York, between what was then Stewart’s great +dry goods establishment and Grace Church, I had +from 1874 to 1879, a little den. It looked, like all +my rooms, very cozy, with a medley of boyish, +college, and army trophies hanging about, and endless +souvenirs of travel and previous years experience +on the walls, and in graceful confusion. +Many of my old half discarded things had fallen +into place, and I wrote under the light of a Russian +double candlestick with a soft green shade, while +my gas was being put in order. My old army +toggery I had arranged in a trophy—sword, belt, +sash, cap, pistol, spurs, blouse of Second Lieutenant +of Artillery (Fifth Massachusetts Battery, +Light Artillery) with the holes through the right +sleeve and the blood on the lining, corps and other +military badges, etc., and as a background the +American flag, in silk, given me by some dear +friends with whom I often stayed at Weston, +Mass., and which I carried with me in the army, +and had suspended in my winter quarters on the +Rappahannock River, Va., 1863-’4. As I now +look at them I can see on my sword knot the very +same crape which was twisted round it by my +servant “Joe,” when all the army went into mourning +for the death of Abraham Lincoln. It is to +me a precious relic, and one such as I imagine +there are few preserved.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In April, 1879, I wrote what follows in a letter +to the Boston <cite>Transcript</cite>:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“The writer paid a visit yesterday to that +remarkable picture now on exhibition at Doll and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>Richards’, 2 Park Street, (Boston) by Albion H. +Bicknell, representing President Lincoln at the +dedication of the cemetery at Gettysburg. Oh, +that word! What a story does it tell! It was +the central turning point of the war, just as Bull +Run was the beginning, and Appomattox the end.</p> + +<p class='c013'>As you look at that wonderful painting, and +gaze at the different men there—men who were +towers of strength for the Union,—you find, as +you count them off one by one, that more than +two-thirds of those who were there that bright +autumn afternoon, November 19, 1863, have ere +this passed on,—Seward, Andrew, Everett, Meade, +Chase, Wilson, Stanton, Morton, Greeley, Sumner, +Welles, Johnson, Hamlin, Fessenden,—are with +us no more.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The landscape, with the trees and the sky and +the flavor of autumn in the air, is admirable. +The grouping is simple, natural and effective, and +the likenesses of the different persons are remarkable. +There they are, honest and earnest American +citizens, in the prosaic dress of the day,—real, +not ideal,—some few of them in uniform, +but a majority in the habiliments of civil life. You +can almost catch the serious words of President +Lincoln, just as he delivered them in that terse +speech which will go down to posterity as his masterpiece +of oratory.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Statue at Springfield, Ill.</span>—<br></h3> +<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>Grant’s Longest Speech.</span></p> + +<p class='c013'>Early in the year 1874, a bronze statue of Abraham +Lincoln was placed over his grave at Springfield, +Illinois. It was unveiled with appropriate +<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>ceremonies and in the presence of over 25,000 people. +Prayer was offered by Bishop Wayman of the +(colored) Methodist Church, and an oration was +delivered by Senator Oglesby of Illinois. President +Ulysses S. Grant, Vice President Henry Wilson, +ex-Vice President Schuyler Colfax and General +William T. Sherman were present, and all made +brief addresses, that of General Grant said to be the +longest speech he ever delivered. It was as follows:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: On an occasion +like the present, it is a duty on my part to bear testimony +to the great and good qualities of the patriotic man whose +earthly remains now rest beneath the dedicated monument. +It was not my fortune to make the personal acquaintance +of Mr. Lincoln till the beginning of the last year of the +great struggle for national existence. During those years +of trouble and despondency, amongst the many patriotic +men of the country, Abraham Lincoln never for a moment +doubted that the final result would be in favor of peace, +union, and freedom to every race in this broad land. His +faith in an all-wise Providence directing our arms to this +final result, was the faith of the Christian that his Redeemer +liveth. Amid obloquy, personal abuse and hate +undisguised, which were given vent to without restraint +through the press, upon the stump, and in private circles, +he remained the same staunch, unyielding servant of the +people, never exhibiting revengeful feelings towards his +traducers, he, rather, pitied them, and hoped for their own +sakes, and the good name of their posterity, they might +desist. It did not occur to him for a single moment that +the man Lincoln was being assailed, but that a treasonable +spirit, one waiting to destroy the fairest government the +sun ever shone upon, was giving vent to itself on him, as +the chief executive of the nation, only because he was such +executive. As a lawyer in your midst, he would have +avoided all that slander, for his life was a pure and simple +one, and no doubt he would have been a much happier +man; but who can tell what might have been the fate of +the nation but for the pure, unselfish, and wise administration +of Lincoln?</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>From March, 1864, to the day when the hand of an +assassin opened the grave for Mr. Lincoln when President +of the United States, my personal relations with him were +as close as the nature of our respective duties would permit. +To know him personally was to love and respect him +for his great qualities of head and heart, and for his +patience and patriotism.</p> + +<p class='c013'>With all his disappointments from failures on the part +of those to whom he intrusted command, and treachery on +the part of those who had gained his confidence but to +betray it, I never heard him utter a complaint, nor cast +censure for bad conduct or bad faith. It was his nature +to find excuses for his adversaries. In his death the nation +lost its greatest head. In his death the South lost its most +just friend.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>Lincoln said to Grant, when as Lieutenant General +he placed him in charge of all the Armies:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“The particulars of your plans I neither know, nor seek +to know. You are vigilant and self-reliant; and, pleased +with this, I wish not to obtrude any restraints nor constraints +upon you.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<hr class='c018'> + +<p class='c013'>Boston is fortunate in having in Park Square the +emancipation group by Thomas Ball, of Lincoln +breaking the fetters of a negro slave, the gift of +Hon. Moses Kimball to the city.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In Chicago, October 1, 1893, during the World’s +Columbian Exposition, I went to see the statue of +Abraham Lincoln by Saint Gaudens in Lincoln +Park. It is splendid in every way, one of the finest +certainly in the country and perhaps in the world, +and in 1903, a bronze statue of Lincoln, cast in +heroic mould with uplifted arm, was erected on a +hill in a town in Illinois from which point it may be +seen for twenty miles in every direction.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The theatre building where he was shot was never +afterwards used for entertainments, but for many +<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>years contained a collection of curios from the battle +fields, which was subsequently removed to the +National Museum, and it has since been attached to +the War Department as an office building for a +bureau.</p> + +<p class='c013'>August 5, 1901, I visited the house where he +died, now containing the Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial +Collection, consisting of over 3000 articles pertaining +to the martyred President.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER THIRD.<br> <span class='c010'>BRUSSELS. THANKSGIVING IN BERLIN. WILNA.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in12'>“This is the place. Stand still, my steed,</div> + <div class='line in14'>Let me review the scene,</div> + <div class='line in12'>And summon from the shadowy Past</div> + <div class='line in14'>The forms that once have been.”</div> + <div class='line in30'>—<em>Henry W. Longfellow.</em></div> + <div class='line'>“<cite>A Gleam of Sunshine</cite>,” edition of 1864.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother</span>.</h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in10'>Berlin, Nov. 29, 1866,</div> + <div class='line'>Or, in other words, Thanksgiving Day.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I happen to be aware of this fact, Mama, because +yesterday, strolling about the Berlin gallery we met +first Mr. Urbino (Dealer in choice foreign books in +Boston) and afterwards Mr. Kellogg, (My brother +Willie’s travelling friend) the latter of whom told +us that all the Americans were to have a big Thanksgiving +dinner at some hotel here, and so we also put +our names down, and mean to do “the eminent +American.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Almost twelve and not breakfasted as yet! How +lazy one does get, and we have tickets to see the +Schloss at twelve, precisely.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well then, to begin,—We really left Paris on +Saturday, arriving at Brussels in time to take a cup +of tea, a chicken cold, and retire, and you have no +idea how nice it is again to be on the move!</p> + +<div id='i_068' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_068.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>WILNA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Sunday, a drizzly day, we drove all the way out +to Waterloo amidst the hoots of the “rag, tag and +bobtail” of the villages taking us for British +<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>tourists. We scanned the scene of conflict with +military gaze, bought a cane and a lunch, chaffed +the natives, and returned in time to see Déjazet +the celebrated old actress perform in a charming +little piece. Monday we strolled about the town, +looked at a few pictures, flattened our noses on the +shop windows, very pretty they are, too, that is, +the things within, and would find ourselves suddenly +bringing up at some grand old cathedral, or a +fascinating marketplace, with statues to old “swells” +whose heads had been discontinued there; gilt-edged +houses in which the ancient guilds and clubs +held forth, crooked streets, high hills, etc. etc.</p> + +<p class='c013'>That evening after dinner we billeted ourselves +for Berlin viâ Cologne, and I soon had an excellent +opportunity of airing my execrable German, and +thanking myself for the little I possess.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, here we are in Berlin, the city of music and +philosophy, and here is Charlie,—by the way, the +best travelling companion imaginable,—ready to +descend for breakfast.</p> + +<p class='c013'>P. M. I am now in my evening harness with +just time to finish this before going to dine. Yesterday +we went to the Gallery, which I liked +exceedingly, although there are only a few real +masterpieces, many of which I knew well from your +book “The Berlin Gallery,” at home. The Murillo +is perhaps the finest. The building itself is charmingly +arranged, all the different schools in order, +and the temperature just right, which you won’t +find in the Italian galleries. We then sauntered +along to Unter den Linden, and caused a great +sensation. Whether our reefing jackets and little +hats and blue scarfs, or our truly distingué and +<em>chic</em>,—tell Willie the word is still a favorite in +Paris,—appearance were the cause, I know not. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>I can here say that the Berliners are not exactly +“swells,” though big on metaphysics, and now on +diplomacy and war; certain it is, however, that +many were the smiles bestowed upon us as we gaily +marched along.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the evening we saw a very good ballet at the +Victoria Theatre. Today we have not accomplished +much except the King’s old palace, and got +fur lined boots, very necessary for travelling, and +filled our pockets with roubles. Tomorrow we go +to see the paintings in company with Mr. Thies and +probably in the evening start for Königsberg, +where I will get you an amber bracelet. The +weather is quite mild now, but I think after leaving +Wilna it will be fresh enough. It is rather an odd +city, this Berlin, with a feeble little stream called +the Spree, just under our window. Charlie sends +love to all. Good night, for I go to the feast of +Bacchus,—roast turkey and plumb pudding.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>N. A.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<hr class='c018'> + +<p class='c013'>Professor Thies, whom I met in Berlin, had been +curator of the Gray Collection of Engravings at +Harvard College, and showed to a party of us in +the second term of my Junior year the famous +prints, collected by Francis Colley Gray principally +abroad, which he bequeathed to the College, and +which were then in one of the alcoves of Gore Hall, +or the Library, up stairs. Our party consisted of +Professor Longfellow and his son Charlie, George +B. Shattuck and his sister, my sister and myself. +It was a great treat and gave me my first real +knowledge of art. We examined all the engravings, +taking several weeks, and the remarks of +Professor Thies were full of knowledge and charm. +It was an education not only in the art of different +<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>kinds of engraving, but of painting and sculpture, +as many of them were copies of the masterpieces +of these two branches of art. The Collection was +transferred to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts +when it was opened, and now forms a part of the +Fogg Museum at Harvard.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Berlin in 1866.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In Berlin, the palaces, houses and stores on the +principal thoroughfares, stand before you as dull +and unsentimental looking as the Prussian sentinels. +The people whom you meet, while appearing as +respectable and worthy as church deacons, have +no elegance nor grace about them, they come and +go on every side as gravely and soberly as is permitted +to human beings, with nothing disorderly +or gay in their manner. They impress you all as +being in what is called “comfortable circumstances,” +wearing a look of contented commonplaceness, +and with the most unbounded respect +for things as they are in Prussia, from the Kaiser +down, and a corresponding ignorance of and pity +for the situation in other less favored countries. +There is an egotistical patriotism in this which is +delicious, and which must have its merits, but it +certainly makes its supporters more objects of curiosity +than of interest to any outsiders, with whom +they may come in contact. But, on the other +hand, there is a compactness in the forward march +of the North Germans as a nation, which is irresistible, +and which is certain to accomplish great +results, and for it the philosophical student of +history cannot but feel an admiration which he +does not accord to the more attractive and mercurial +inhabitants of other countries. He respects +<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>intensely the Prussians, but he does not care to live +among them.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The next morning after our arrival in Berlin we +sauntered forth to see all there was in the city, and +to provide ourselves with a complete outfit of furs: +caps, coats and boots. The weather was cold and +we would need these protections for the rest of our +journey, and we knew there was no better market +in Europe for obtaining them of good quality and +at reasonable prices than in the city of Frederick +the Great.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Thanksgiving Dinner.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Wilna, Dec. 3, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I begin you a letter here as we have some time +before the train starts for <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg which I +will finish there, and will take up my story at +Berlin, where I left myself just going to dinner.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The dinner was quite successful and amusing: +about one hundred Americans of all styles collected +together, one pretty girl, Miss R. of Springfield, my +classmate Green (The distinguished oculist Dr. J. +Orne Green.), lots of old professional buffers, and a +good deal of ruff skuff in long coats and red scarfs, +and several military men. Charlie and I got an old +Russian gentleman between us and talked philosophy +and <em><span lang="fr">la vie Russe</span></em>.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The minister, Mr. Wright, presided, and went +through very gracefully the rather difficult performance +of drinking the health of the President!</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Opera House at Berlin is quite stunning, and +they have the best female singer in the world, +Lucca. We did not have the good fortune to hear +her. Berlin is ahead of all the world in music. In +other respects I think it rather a dull city, but then, +we have not as yet shaken off the glitter of Paris +from our garments.</p> + +<div id='i_073' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_073.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>STATUE OF KANT. KÖNIGSBURG, 1866.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>The next day we went to Königsberg on the +Baltic, where we passed twenty-four hours, and +visited the Schloss where the Teutonic Knights in +ye ancient time held their revels, and where later +the King and Queen of Prussia lived when Napoleon +captured Berlin and made the peace of Tilsit. +There is an old modern church in which the numberless +columns almost prevent your seeing across, and +a very old cathedral, with lots of interesting +monuments.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday we came here, a flourishing Polish +town before Russia “gobbled it up,” and go +through the experience of having our trunks and +passports examined every few hours, although, +when they find we are Americans, they are very +civil. They can’t quite make us out, and look +upon us as curiosities, especially stopping at Wilna. +America seems to them so far off. The Russian +surveillance is very strict in the Polish cities, more +so than in Russia proper, and it was here that lots +of Poles were hung only a few years ago. Napoleon +slept in the palace here the night after Alexander +left it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It is so awfully funny, this first taste of Russia, +little sleighs just holding one man all covered with +furs, and a big hoop over the horse like the pictures +in our geography,—narrow streets with crowds of +Jews, great bulb like steeples to the churches, and +everything different. They keep the houses so +warm that you almost suffer. Well, I must close +for tonight.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>N. A.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Fairy Sleigh.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>The spring previous to this Russian journey I +received the following note from Mrs. Harrison +Gray Otis, on receiving a photograph of myself in +my fancy sleigh:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis presents her regards to Mr. +Appleton, and very much thanks him for the interesting +photograph which she had already admired. She hopes +he will have more snow the next winter to enjoy his fairy +like equipage, and wishes him health and happiness as a +reward for his wounds in the service of his country.”</p> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Mt. Vernon Street,</div> + <div class='line in2'>14th March, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>My pretty sleigh had the appearance of a Russian +one as I had arranged what looked like a “duga” +over the saddle of the horse, with a waving plume. +I once drove down State street in it with my +colored groom, the same old “Joe” who was with +me in the army, sitting behind in the rumble, and +from its striking appearance, with the white fox +robes, made a mild sensation.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Stop Over at Wilna.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We broke the journey from Berlin to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, +which is long and uninteresting, by stopping +over twenty-four hours at Wilna, once the +capital of Lithuania, afterwards an important +Polish and at present an unimportant Russian +town. We thought we ought not to jump into the +middle of Russia at once; we ought to look a little +at the edges, and study the ways and customs of +the provincials, which we were sure would be +curious and worth seeing, so it was decided that we +pass a day at Wilna.</p> + +<div id='i_074' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_074.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>SINGLE SLEIGH.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>There is probably no part of the civilized world +where the annoyances about passports and baggage +are greater than in conquered Poland. Everyone +who enters the land is looked upon with suspicion, +and the difficulty is not by any means over when +you get in, for there is the same trouble to get out +again, sometimes even worse. But few tourists +stop there, and so any well-dressed stranger seen is +an object of curiosity, and is most carefully watched +by the police. Particularly is this system of +espionage strong in the small cities, and one’s life +there by it becomes a burden.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was late at night when we arrived at the depot. +Our passports were carefully scrutinized, our names +recorded, the name of the hotel where we intended +to stop was taken down, and we were told that +owing to the lateness of the hour our trunks would +not be examined that night, but that we must come +for the ceremony at ten o’clock the next morning. +We were also informed that we could not leave the +city without again having our passports examined +and the proper <em>visa</em> put on.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Beggar.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>When we looked out of our hotel window the next +morning the street in front was filled with beggars +of every description, who on seeing us at the window +began going through every imaginable kind of +pantomime which might appeal to the pity or the +pride of those to whom they were addressed. +Perhaps of all the types of beggars in the world, the +Polish Jew is the most striking. His long greasy +hair, his longer and greasier coat, his trowsers +tucked in his boots and his peculiar cap, are distinguishing +traits. And then how he can pile on +<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>the agony in facial expression and gesture! No +imagined grief of Dante’s Inferno can excel what +the Polish Jew would make you believe are his +sufferings as he stands thus piteously addressing +you. For a handful of copper coins flung among +the crowd, they fought hard and long.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Tour of the Town.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>After, with some difficulty, getting possession +of our trunks, and showing that they contained +no infernal machines, nor suspicious looking insurrectionary +pamphlets, we jumped into a sleigh, as +the ground here was well covered with snow, and +wrapping ourselves up in our <em>shubes</em> started off on a +tour of inspection through the town.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There is something very fascinating in the first +suspicion of the Orient as seen in the outlying +frontier towns of the Sclavonic race. The bright +colored churches with their bulbous steeples albeit +dull and in miniature, give a suggestive hint of +what the glories of Moscow and Constantinople will +be. The queer costumes of the people, neither +Asiatic or European, and their manners in which +the patriarchal reverence for authority of the East +is tinged with the curiosity and thirst for knowledge +of the West, make you regard them as a sort of +stepping stone or connecting link between Eastern +and Western customs and civilization. And then +it is all so different from life in the other European +capitals, where each one is more or less a stilted +copy of the others. Here you have the mixture of +the European and Asiatic elements in such a +peculiar way, that something astonishing strikes +you continually, and the social relations are so +vague that real adventures are likely to befall you +in all the classes of society.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>The rough wooden sleigh in which we were +whisked through the place, with its brightly +painted <em>duga</em> over the horse’s head, the light +ornamented harness, with the strange dress of the +driver, made visions of winter pleasures in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +Petersburg fill our imaginations, and we thought +what a sensation we would make could we only be +transferred just as we were into the Harlem Lane!</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Horse, Sleigh and Coachman.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Your sleigh follows you round by day and night, +always within call, and so, enveloped in the dark +furs of Astrachan or Siberia, you sally forth on +your round of conquest. The horses are superb, +very fast trotters, with high knee action, and holding +their heads gracefully; the favorite colors are +black or dappled gray. The ordinary sleigh, that +of the <em><span lang="fr">grand seigneur</span></em>, such, indeed, as the Emperor +almost always uses, as well as those you pick up +anywhere in the streets, are not unlike our well-known +Portland cutters. Between the regular +seat and the dash-board is a little narrow seat on +which the driver perches, with one foot inside, and +the other in a sort of stirrup outside, from which +he braces himself to hold the horse. A fur robe, +or rather a thick cloth robe trimmed with a deep +border of fur, comes over you and is fastened +around you, and hooked at the corners of the +sleigh in such a way that you cannot tumble out. +The sleighs are very plain, generally of varnished +wood, not even painted. The coachman is a type +quite different from what you will see in any other +country. The most stylish are stout, impressive +looking men of middle age, with a long beard like +a French <em>sapeur</em>. They wear a dark, thick garment, +which in shape I can only compare to a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>dressing-gown, fastened around the waist with a +brilliant sash, and then falling nearly to the feet in +great plaits.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The fashionable owners of these turnouts are +seated behind their drivers as comfortable as possible, +and take as much interest in racing on the +road and passing those about them, as we do when +handling the ribbons ourselves. By far the most +elegant turnout is the single sleigh with a trotter +in the shafts and a horse on each side, making three +abreast, galloping along. They are trained specially +for this when young, and they do it well; bending +their heads down to the right or left, as it may +be, and rushing along madly. The Prefect of +Police of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg had a stunning team of +that kind.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Besides all I have mentioned there are many +handsome double-seated sleighs, with a flunkey +standing up behind on a board near the ground in +some gorgeous livery, and cocked hat with turkey +feathers of different colors, like a major general’s.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I must not forget to mention the net that goes +from the horse’s back to the dash-board of the +sleigh, to prevent the snow from being kicked in +your face, a most sensible idea, and one we could +well copy in America. These nets are of brilliant +colors, red, blue, or green, to match the livery and +the sleigh, and the effect is fine as they float in the +wind. The winter of 1870-’1, after my return from +Russia, I used the net to keep the snow from being +kicked in my face, a blue one, which I bought in +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. A young fellow who saw me passing +and did not understand what it was for, cried +out:—“Look at that man, he’s afraid the flies will +bite his horse!”—Not a bad remark for mid-winter, +and I came to the conclusion that Russian +<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>ideas of sleighing were not altogether appreciated +in America.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>At Wilna. The Chief of Police.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The most amusing scene of our stop over at +Wilna, was at the office of the Chief of Police. To +arrange our passports for departing we went to the +office during the afternoon, but as it was <em><span lang="fr">jour de +fête</span></em>, as it generally is, in honor of some saint, the +bureau was closed and the head official was absent. +In consideration of the great regard Russia felt for +the United States, the second in command agreed +to attend to our case, as we were in a hurry to leave +the city, with the understanding that it must be +submitted to his chief for approval. The interview +was characteristic and ludicrous. The official +spoke a little bad German, nothing else except +Russian. We had both neglected our German +studies and only knew a few phrases, sufficient to +demand the necessities of life in travelling. The +gaps were filled up with gestures, and the interrogatory +of name, age, residence, occupation, +went on slowly and unintelligibly enough until the +hotel keeper, having heard of the dilemma in which +all parties found themselves, came to the rescue +with the little French he knew and assurances of +the good character of the persons on trial, affirming +that he had conversed with us long at his hotel and +he was certain there was nothing suspicious about +us. This only confused things more, and the poor +official hardly knew what to do. He was unwilling +to take so great a responsibility upon himself and +began to think he had got some important political +offenders. It is difficult to say how the interview +would have ended; it began to look as if he intended +<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>locking us up until he should have time to reflect, +but fortunately the Chief of Police at this moment +came in. He was a gentleman of education and +delicacy of feeling, one of those polished Russian +officers so often met, and what was more to the +point spoke both English and French fluently. He +sat down quietly at his table, and in a dignified +manner saying a few words in Russian to his now +abashed assistant, examined carefully the passports, +and finding everything <em><span lang="fr">en regle</span></em>, asked us a +few simple questions, which being satisfactorily +answered, he said:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“I must apologize, gentlemen, for the annoyance +to which you have been unavoidably subjected, +but we poor officials have very strict orders in +Polish Russia, and mistakes will sometimes arise.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>When it was time to leave we were consigned to +the best attention of all the conductors and railroad +officials of the line, with orders to be treated as +became American princes. The train was well +filled with passengers, and we took our places in +carriage 722, C, <em><span lang="fr">première classe</span></em>, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburgh +and Warsaw Railroad.</p> + +<div id='i_081' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_081.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>NEVSKI PROSPECT ST. PETERSBURG.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FOURTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ST. PETERSBURG. TSAR ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“I shall not be particular in stating</div> + <div class='line'>His journey, we’ve so many tours of late,</div> + <div class='line'>Suppose him then at Petersburgh; suppose</div> + <div class='line'>That pleasant capital of painted snows:—</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Damsels and dances, revels, ready money,</div> + <div class='line'>Made ice seem paradise, and winter sunny.”</div> + <div class='line in32'>—<em>Lord Byron.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, December 5, 1866. (Continuation +of letter written at Wilna.) Here we are at +last, having arrived yesterday evening, and I must +say that our first impressions are in the midst of +difficulties, for on awakening this morning we found +it actually thawing, and the streets are all filled with +slosh, but the funny little sleighs rush about incessantly, +and perfectly silently as there are no bells +on the horses. We have been occupied today +going to the banker’s where I found your letter, and +to the American legation where we saw the minister, +who told us that my classmate, Jeremiah Curtin, +had gone only yesterday to Moscow for two or +three weeks, and in looking up some kind of good +apartment.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I think we shall stay here some time over Christmas, +which I believe comes later in the Russian +calendar than with us, and devote some time to +learning Russian and continuing our French. In +fact for the latter there can be no better place than +<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>here. There are only about six or seven hours of +daylight now, and these we must give up to sight +seeing, which I mean to do thoroughly, and to +skating and sleighing. In my next I will give you +a good account of Saint Petersburg and its sights.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Till then adieu.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Sister.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Saint Petersburg, December 14, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>... Well, isn’t it droll, here is your young +brother established as a gay <em>flâneur</em> in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P., who +means to delve into all the gayeties of the Russian +life.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Our Minister, General Cassius M. Clay, (Of +Kentucky, then 56 years of age.), presented Charlie +and myself the other day to a most lovely Russian +Princess, who lives in a gorgeous palace worth +about one million roubles,—a rouble in gold is +just our paper dollar. (This was true at that time +when our currency was depreciated.) After going +through suites of apartments, billiard room and +salons, we found her in the boudoir, and she +received us with such a graceful cordiality that she +won both our hearts immediately, and we are now +at her feet. Tomorrow General Clay is to take us +to the reception of the Spanish Ambassador, as +they are to give a ball soon to which he wants us +to be invited. The Minister seems very inclined +to be attentive and kind. We shall presently be +presented in due form to the Imperial family.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Charlie and I are very comfortably established +in a nice apartment with our books, and I want to +stay here indefinitely. One must pass the winter +somewhere, and why not here, where so few Americans +have tried it?</p> + +<div id='i_082' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_082.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>HON. CASSIUS M. CLAY, MINISTER TO RUSSIA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>We have a jolly sleigh at our disposition, with a +horse who rushes off like mad. Vehicles are a +necessity here, where the distances are so tremendous, +and no one ever walks, and you can hire +excellent traps by the day, week, or month, much +cheaper than taking them by the course. The +sleighing has been splendid for the last week, and +the Nevsky Prospect any afternoon is a sight worth +seeing, filled with all kinds of sleighs. I have even +seen one or two of our American cutters. All the +strange equipages you read about are actually true, +and the <em>troika</em> with one horse trotting and the other +two galloping is no uncommon sight. The sleighing, +when it once begins, lasts right along, as there +is no sun at all to melt it, the days being very short, +and what little sky there is overcast. You don’t +feel the cold much either as there is very little +wind,—how I shiver when I think of the Mill +Dam,—(The “Mill Dam Road” a favorite Boston +drive.), and we are learning many a wrinkle in the +art of keeping warm, which we shall bring out in +America. The shops, too, are fascinating, and I +expect to invest heavily during my stay in all kinds +of Russian articles, Persian silks and Circassian +silver, Russian amulets, and the thousand and one +things which you don’t see even in the cosmopolitan +shops of Paris; among others a complete Russian +harness, with a cap for the driver. There is a huge +bazaar, where everything can be found, built in a +parallelogram, with shops on the four sides.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The most fascinating things are the hoods all the +ladies wear, covering just half their little fur caps. +These are made of different colored cloths with +embroidery of gold or silver. The fur lined slippers, +too, are not bad, but I won’t tantalize you +with descriptions. As I do not anticipate coming +<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>here again soon I mean to do the thing up this +time. I skated today for the first time on a pond +belonging to the Russian Yacht Club, to which we +have received tickets, but there were only a few +there, in fact the skating does not fairly begin until +the Neva Skating Club is open, which is the swell +place, where all the nobility go. It is gotten up +by the English, and is a large square, fenced in +with pine trees planted in the ice, situated on the +Neva in the city, with nice houses to put on your +skates and warm yourself, very necessary here, +and several times during the season they give <em>fêtes</em> +by night. We have subscription tickets for the +season, and I think it will be open in a few days. +But with all this we must not forget our art, and +here we have the magnificent gallery of the Hermitage, +one of the finest though not the best known +in Europe, and we can wander a whole winter +through its endless galleries without exhausting +the treasures.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Sunday morning: I hope the little jacket and hat +will be pleasing to Master Billy, which Mr. Burgess +is to bring from Paris. I will get him a few of the +Oriental and Cossack children’s dresses, which are +stunning and very plentiful here, and then I think +he will make a sensation on Beacon street.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, my dear, I must close and dispatch this. +Today we are to skate on the Yacht Club Pond, as +they have a <em>fête</em> there every Sunday, and tonight +at midnight is the first <em><span lang="fr">bal masqué</span></em> at the Grand +Opera. “On with the dance,” and <em><span lang="fr">vive la jeunesse</span></em>! +Last evening we passed at the English consul’s and +met some very pretty young Cossacks, quite civilized, +however. Charlie sends lots of love to you +both. He is now in front of the fire with his feet +in the air. Well, goodbye, and pinch Billy’s +cheeks for me.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>There is a pretty arrangement in Russian houses, +which is not to be found elsewhere that I know of. +Part of the large drawing-room, generally a corner +by windows, is often fenced off by itself, raised on +a platform, about a foot above the rest of the floor. +Here is formed a sort of garden in the house. The +light iron fence is covered with some green, flowering +vine, and inside are some exotics, palms and +other tropical plants, and the effect is enchanting. +The ladies select this as their especial haunt, transforming +it into a boudoir where they read their +favorite novels, write their notes, or work at +embroidery.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I made my purchases of Circassian trinkets and +toys, to send home to my nephews and nieces, in +the <em><span lang="fr">Passage</span></em>, a much frequented place for the idlers +of the town, in imitation of the Burlington Arcade +in London, and the <em><span lang="fr">Passage des Panoramas</span></em> of +Paris.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Those were pleasant skating parties we had on +the Neva, in the open rink of the Club, where all +the nobility and swells of the place came out to +show their agility. Thanks to much practice and +many a tumble upon the Frog Pond of Boston, I +was a skillful skater, and my partners were also +proficient in that difficult accomplishment. How +we dashed along over the place where Peter the +Great had often been paddled in his rough-hewn +boat, now forward together arm-in-arm, now one +backward and the other forward, each bending in +time to the graceful curves of the outside edge!</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, 27th Nov. Russian Calendar.</div> + <div class='line in19'>9th Dec. American Calendar.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mamma.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Your letter containing the tribute to Charlie +Smith I found at the bank yesterday. How true +and good the account of him is. You expected +it would reach me in Paris, but you see we have got +off before. We are getting somewhat settled here +now, though we are not as yet fairly <em><span lang="fr">lancés</span></em> into the +gay life. This is partly on account of the horrid +weather, for ever since we have been here it has +been gradually melting into slosh and the sleighing +rapidly disappearing. Sudden changes are common, +and today is cold again with snow falling.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Great Sea Street.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We have got a very nice little apartment on the +great Moscow street, just in the centre of the city, +and the house opposite being very low we get as +much light as is possible anywhere.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We are in a French <em><span lang="fr">maison meublée</span></em> with a very +pleasant Arthur O’Leary style of <em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em>, where +we meet half a dozen different gentlemen from all +kinds of countries, and we talk in French of the +relative merits of our respective nationalities. In +fact, we do more French talking here than in Paris. +In the afternoon before dinner we take a lesson in +Russian, our teacher using French as the basis of +instruction, and I presume by the time I leave +Russia, I shall be unable to speak any other language. +It is considerable difficult though, but I +go on the principle of learning everything.</p> + +<div id='i_086' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_086.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>BOLSHAJA MORSKAJA (GREAT SEA STREET).</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The Church of Sault Isaac, which is about the +only sight we have seen, is perfectly gorgeous, with +its huge pillars of malachite and <em>lapis lazuli</em> from +the mines of Demidoff. You enter, and a mysterious +feeling, half oriental and half European, +carries you away. The perpetual incense, the +prostrate worshipers, the delicious temperature and +the ornaments which combine the <em>luxe</em> of Europe +with the savage gorgeousness of Asia, form a whole +which the churches of Italy do not have. Perhaps +this combination of East and West is the great +charm to the life in Russia. The toilettes of the +ladies have come from the brain and fingers of +Parisian <em><span lang="fr">couturierès</span></em> adapted to climate here. The +Oriental element you see strong in the livery of +servants and the uniforms of officers. The feeling +of caste is very marked, and while the London +flunkey beats the world in servility, and the Italian +beggar in woe-begone dejection, the Russian servant +seems to be afraid of you, recognizing the +superior man in everything.</p> + +<div id='i_087' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_087.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN ST. PETERSBURG.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Pretty Russian Maidens.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>I have not yet had a good chance to see all the +different sleighs in their glory, but from what I +have seen I think they will be stunning. We saw +two pretty little Russian maidens, with their white +furs, driving along in a jolly sleigh, the horse in the +shafts trotting gaily, and one on his left cantering +beside him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The omnibuses have three horses, but I have +not seen a swell in his <em>troika</em>. The horses certainly +trot faster than any except ours, and some I see on +the Nevsky Prospect would make a very creditable +show on the Brighton road.</p> + +<p class='c013'>P. M. We have been out today to visit Mr. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>Pierce, (A relative of the Longfellows, who had +been secretary of legation during President Pierce’s +administration, and at the time we were in Russia +connected with the Winans in the railroad building +business.) who lives about four miles outside the +city, and after passing the place by mistake and +returning, we succeeded in finding him, and received +a most hospitable reception. He seemed much +inclined to help us in any way to have a jolly time. +The sleighing was fine and the air deliciously cold +and clear.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Russian youths at the theatres are a most +enthusiastic crowd, and I have seen singers at the +Opera, ballet dancers, or even a circus star called +out five or six times. The Grand Opera House is +very fine, and the ballet troupe gorgeous, quite as +good, if not better, than the one in Paris. There +is a theatre (Saint Michel) where they give French +and German plays, so that one can have most +everything.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, I have lots of letters to write and no time +to write any of them, so that this must suffice you +for the week.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The theatre is large and finely decorated. The +Imperial box is always ready to be occupied by the +Tsar or some member of his family, the sentries +standing on each side of it in their gorgeous uniforms +as motionless as statues. The pit is filled +with the <em>viveurs</em> of the city, young and old, who +are in their stalls, lorgnettes in hand, watching +every movement on the stage. Between the acts +all file out into the smoking room, when a <em>papyrus</em> +is inhaled, and some cooling beverage partaken of +in the interlude of the play.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The ballet itself is a masterpiece of skill in its +<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>peculiar style. The dancers are trained carefully +for years in a school under the Imperial patronage, +and only appear upon the stage after having gone +through a long apprenticeship. The story of the +piece, of which the scene takes place in Russia or +some of the Oriental countries, is most carefully +worked up by the author, and entirely acted in +pantomime and dance. All the passions of love, +hatred, jealousy and revenge will be exhibited by +motions aided by the changing strains of an excellent +orchestra. When a favorite <em>danseuse</em> comes +bounding across the stage, attired in Russian +costume, delineating in her movements sentiments +which appeal to the pride or patriotism of the +audience, the enthusiasm of the house knows no +limit, and words and shouts of applause rend the +air long and loud.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Charles K. Smith.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I went to New York on my seventeenth birthday, +February 2, 1860, when I was a Freshman at +Harvard College, to pay a visit to the family of +David Lane, whose wife was Caroline Lamson, +sister of Colonel Daniel S. Lamson, friends of my +mother, who lived at 12 East 10th Street or Brevoort +Place, as it was called. The firm was Lane, +Lamson, & Co. The American flag in my trophy +was given me by one of this family. It was on this +New York visit that I made the acquaintance of +Charlie Smith, and he seemed to take a great liking +to me.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In my diary of Feb. 2, 1860, I find, “In the evening +people came, it being the Lanes’ reception +evening, Mr. Smith and others.” This is the first +mention of him. One evening, shortly after this, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>he invited us all to go to the Italian opera at the +Academy of Music, in Brooklyn, and we accepted, +driving over and back.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The next mention is in regard to a visit to Weston, +Mass., “Feb. 16, 1860. Went to Weston in a +glorious snow storm. Stunning dinner. Went for +two of the party in an ox team to the station. +Took profiles in the evening. Supper stunninger.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Sunday, Feb. 19, 1860. There was no church +but we went out in the sleigh to see Mr. Smith’s +protégé, deaf and dumb. (A boy he was interested +in and was having educated.) Good dinner.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Daniel S. Lamson, our especial host and entertainer +in 1860, was commissioned Major 16th +Mass. Infantry, Aug. 1, 1861, Lieutenant Colonel +July 23, 1862, and resigned for disability Sept. +29, 1862. But this was the year before the War.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I always called him “Uncle Dan” and do so +still (1904).</p> + +<p class='c013'>Charlie Smith was about ten years my senior, +and that sort of regard from an elder is always +appreciated by a boy. At the time of my visit to +New York he was stopping at the Brevoort House. +He was a member of the New York Club in Broadway, +the crack one at that time, and won my +heart and esteem at once. I was devoted to him. +One day we strolled down Broadway and he treated +me to oysters and a glass of beer, and I thought +I was a man of the world.</p> + +<p class='c013'>When we met at Weston he fascinated me more +than ever, with his stories and songs, and we had +many merry evenings. I was treated as a young +man, not a boy, and I look back to those old +times with unmingled delight.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The letter I received from my mother announcing +Charlie Smith’s death at San Francisco, I can +<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>now recall and explain. Of Boston parentage, +he had gone to California in the early days, and +made what at that time was considered a good +fortune. He was killed accidentally by a shot +when out gunning. He was so popular in the +city of San Francisco that the body was laid in +state in the rooms of the Union Club of that +city, as a tribute to the appreciation in which he +was held by its members.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The New York Club.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The New York Club, corner of Broadway and +Great Jones street, I never visited with Charlie +Smith, but during the War they moved to the +Haight house, Fifth avenue and 15th street. That +was the apogee of their greatness, and I was introduced +and became a six months’ member. Great +Jones street was near property which belongs to the +Jones-De Trobriand-Post families.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Wednesday, Dec. 20, 1866.</div> + <div class='line in8'>Saint Petersburg.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I begin you a letter now, to finish sometime if +possible. Your last one talked to me about the +furs. I think you are quite right to want lots of +Russian things, as they are fascinating, and you +will probably never have as good an opportunity +of getting them. Be easy, then, for I am to buy +no end of various things, and send them all off to +Boston, by the first Spring boat of Mr. Ropes. +Mr. Prince, who is the head one of the house here, +is very obliging, and being a good judge of furs, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>I think I can satisfy you in that line, though they +won’t be in time for this winter. I shall buy the +skins only, and you can have them made up in +Boston to suit you, as the fur goods they wear +here are different from ours, and might not please +you. For instance, I have not seen a pair of cuffs +in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I shall get handsome, dark +Siberian sable skins, worthy of a princess, Persian +table cloths, malachite ornaments, slippers, Circassian +silver, etc., etc., and also something which +will make you very happy—a little box or two of +the stunning tea, which is brought across from +Pekin in caravans.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We are to dine with Mr. Prince next Tuesday, +which is Christmas day, and have since had to +decline an invitation for the same day, given us by +the English Ambassador.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>—Presentation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Two days ago we were presented to the Emperor. +We were quite alone, no other people being presented +the same day. We marched through suites +of apartments, and were formally ushered into +His Majesty’s billiard room, where we were received +by two of the chamberlains, and from there we +went into the reception room where we soon had +a little conversation with the head of all the Russias +in our native (?) language of French. He +is very nice, I give you my word, but we were +disappointed in not seeing the Empress, though +this comes some other time.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We have a good many occasions of airing our +French in the <em><span lang="fr">beau monde</span></em> of Russia, and I find +that there is no trouble with it; the only thing to +do being to go right along regardless of errors, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>for I see that although I do not speak very well, +there are plenty who speak quite as bad and worse, +and this being a neutral ground of course one is +bolder. However, a great many of the well +educated speak English admirably.</p> + +<p class='c013'>All this goes to show that we are in for society +now, and have to await quietly a round of balls, +operas, and dinners, and return our calls most +punctiliously, a form of etiquette about which the +Russians are very exacting.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We went to a jolly young count’s (Koucheleff +Besborodko) the other day, who immediately +made us at home with a delicious cigar. His +house, take it all in all, was about as lovely as +any I have ever seen, with an Oriental smoking +room, a Pompadour boudoir, a Chinese room, a +long gallery of paintings, an immense dancing hall, +and a conservatory arranged with grottoes and +cascades, a rustic bridge, and an original old statue +of a satyr, picked up in Rome. The Count is a +great connoisseur of art, and his collection in all +its branches is magnificent, with souvenirs of every +city of Europe, and all the ages of the world, +enough to drive to despair any such little dabblers +as myself.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have met quite a charming young Austrian +lady, who lives with the Spanish Ambassador’s +wife, but I shall take good care of my heart and +bring it back to Boston.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Our acquaintances, thus far, are eminently diplomatic, +as you see, the English consul’s family +especially being very attentive.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We skated yesterday on the Neva Club place +for the first time, as the grounds are only just +opened, but today it is thawing again, and we +must wait a bit for it to freeze.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>I think you would be rather frightened at the +way they drive here in the sleighs, rushing off as +fast as possible, yelling to people and carriages +to get out of the way, and then bringing the horse +up suddenly with a droll sound—bhr-r-r-r!—which +corresponds to “whoa” in English. In some letter +I will describe a sleigh for you, but they are all +alike, from the Emperor’s to the street cabs, except +in finish. There are very few covered vehicles +here to hire, and you always go, by night and day, +in an open sleigh, so you can judge from that, that +the cold is not so awfully severe here as you imagine. +We take very good care not to be frozen, as +we both have a horror of the amusement, but +enough for today.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Presentation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The Hon. Cassius M. Clay, the American Minister, +presented C. A. Longfellow and myself to +the Emperor.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Invitation.</span></h3> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c004'> + <div>Translated from the French.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Ministry of the Imperial Court.</div> + <div class='line in4'>Direction of Ceremonies.</div> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, 5–17 December, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The Grand Master of Ceremonies has the honor to +inform Mr. N. Appleton, that he will have the honor of +being presented to His Majesty the Emperor tomorrow, +Tuesday, 6–18 December, at half past one in the afternoon +at the Winter Palace.</p> + +<p class='c013'>You are requested to come to the door of Her Majesty +the Empress.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in10'>[Seal]</div> + <div class='line'>[See binding of this book.]</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>The invitation was gladly accepted, not only +from the desire of meeting in person the Autocrat +of all the Russias, but also because once done your +name was put upon the list of distinguished visitors +to the capital, and, as a matter of course, you +were invited to all the balls and festivities of the +season. General Clay called for us in his sleigh, +and we drove to the Winter Palace, where we were +met by some of the officers of the staff, on horseback. +The regulation dress prescribed for us was +“black or blue dress coat, black vest and pantaloons, +white cravat and white kids,” as stated +in a marginal note by General Clay.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Having been ushered into the presence of the +Emperor, as detailed in my letter to my mother, +we had a little chat with him, principally answering +some questions about America, and then retired, +and went down stairs.</p> + +<p class='c013'>While waiting in the hall below for our sleigh to +drive up, the Tsar came bounding down the staircase, +followed by his favorite Newfoundland dog, +with which he was often photographed, and before +jumping into his sleigh and dashing off on some +call, he stopped and exchanged a few more words +with us. Indeed the whole interview made a most +agreeable impression upon me.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gortschakoff.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“The days when the great Nicholas leaned on him +sweep back from the mists of the buried years. In his +old age, he is the Richelieu of another Tsar, for Russia +draws the sword in fight once more.”</p> + +<p class='c017'>—<em>Col. Richard Henry Savage</em> on Gortschakoff in 1876.</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>I was naturally very much delighted with the +prospect of being presented to the distinguished +<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>veteran Russian diplomatist and chancellor of +the empire. This occurred in December of this +year, 1866. General Clay had arranged the interview +beforehand with Count Gortschakoff, and +one morning called for us at our hotel in his sleigh +to take us there. Another person was of the party, +and strangely enough a negro, a certain Captain +Chester, who was out in Russia on some special +business.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We started off through the cold, clear air, and +were soon at the door of the Ministry of Foreign +Affairs, where we were expected, and ushered in. +We first met Mr. Westerman, a gentleman who +for some time had been Count Gortschakoff’s right +hand man and assistant in the tremendous duties +of his office, and were then shown by him into the +private cabinet of the chancellor.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Our interview was, of course, not lengthy, but +most interesting. The old gentleman chatted +with us very pleasantly on different topics, and +in his manner and reception of us was as simple +and unaffected as a child. He looked hale and +hearty, and as though he had before him many +years, which he meant to devote to aiding the +development of Russian progress and civilization, +and he did live two years after the death of the +Tsar and died in Baden-Baden March 11, 1883.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to my Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Thursday, Dec. 27, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mamma.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Another week has glided rapidly by, finding us +still at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and I have two of your +letters to acknowledge, the last one bearing date +of December 9th.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To Cronstadt—An American Party.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>What have we been doing? Among other things +yesterday a party of Americans went to see Cronstadt. +We were, General Roberts, <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr>, a +good specimen of an American general (Benjamin +Stone Roberts, graduate of West Point, served in +the Mexican war and the Rebellion, brevetted +Brig. Gen. <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr>, and Major Gen. <abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr>, +inventor of the Roberts breech-loading rifle, which +he was trying to introduce to the Russians. He +was a remarkably genial fellow, and had lots of +good stories which he delighted in telling.), Mr. +Sawyer, correspondent of the New York <cite>Herald</cite>, +and a very pleasant companion, C. A. L., and +myself, and we had a Russian colonel put at our +disposal to open the gates of everything. We +went down by rail to a place opposite Cronstadt, +and then crossed over the Gulf of Finland on the +ice, with two funny little Finnish ponies to each +sledge, one trotting and the other galloping, +but going like the wind, and doing the five miles +in less than half an hour, without lessening speed +once. It was very cold and our fur coats were +necessary. We visited some of the forts, and +afterwards breakfasted at the Navy and Army +Club of the place. The whole effect of the day and +the adventures were eminently Russian. We had +to get up long before daylight, and saw the sun +rise about 9 o’clock, something one does not often +see here, as we are generally asleep at that time.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Imperial Stables.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>One day last week we visited the Imperial +stables, which I thought very shabby, although +<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>many of the horses were stunning, and afterwards +we examined all the swell carriages and sledges, +which have been used at coronations, weddings +and <em>fêtes</em> from the time of Peter the Great to the +Princess Dagmar. They showed all varieties of +taste, and are more magnificent than those at the +Trianon at Versailles.</p> + +<p class='c013'>On Christmas Day Charlie and self dined with +Mr. Prince, and attended just before dinner the +christening of his youngest child. It was quite +a large dinner, Anglo-American, and most decidedly +respectable. It is curious how very few +American families there are living in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. +Last Sunday we dined with Mr. Whistler, +(George W., father of the artist James Abbott +McNeill W.) who is one of the gentlemen connected +with the Winans car manufactory. There +were about twelve, all gentlemen, and all Americans, +indeed it included almost all the American +males here,—General Clay, and the Consul, Mr. +Winans, Mr. Pierce, and others, and it was jolly +enough.</p> + +<p class='c013'>On Saturday next Charlie and I think of starting +for Moscow, spending ten days, or so, and then +returning, as we give up the Odessa plan, but we +have not quite decided.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, I must stop now, as I go in a minute to +drive with the Spanish Ambassador and his wife, +the Duke and Duchess d’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, +but whether it is a “<em><span lang="fr">grand diner diplomatique</span></em>” or a +“<em><span lang="fr">petite causerie intime</span></em>” I know not.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Friday morning: I have just time to finish and +dispatch this now, before going out to perform the +numerous last duties on the eve of our departure +for Moscow. Cards must be sent round, etc. etc.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The dinner yesterday was very good, rather in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>the heavy diplomatic line, old swells with countless +decorations, and jewelled dowagers nodding +over the table, with a sprinkling of youthful +<em><span lang="fr">attachés</span></em> and officers filling up the corners. Later +in the evening I went to a ball at the rooms of +the Artists’ Club, and danced a little.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, I must rush out, one is always hurried +here, as I have before observed. My next will +probably be from Moscow, where I can give you +an account of our cousin Eliza, and deliver her +your present; also, the Kremlin, and the tea-drinking +gardens. A hard snow storm which looks like +continuing.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Adieu.      Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Ross Winans.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In a letter from my mother visiting Baltimore +in 1852, to my sister and myself in Boston, she +wrote:—“This morning we have been to see the +most superb house in the country, built by a gentleman +of the name of Winans, who has been +employed by the Russian government in the construction +of railroads and cars, and has made an +immense fortune.” This letter was sealed according +to the custom of the time with a red wafer.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Ross Winans, a native of New Jersey, was an +inventor and manufacturer of railroad machines +in Baltimore, and undertook the Russian railroads +by the advice of George W. Whistler. He died +in Baltimore, in 1877, at the age of eighty-one. +He had two sons who went to Russia; Thomas +de Kay, who died in Newport, R. I., June 11, 1878, +aged fifty-eight, and William Louis, who never +returned to this country, but went to England +after the completion of the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg and +Moscow railroad, and died in London, June 25, +1897, aged seventy-five.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FIFTH.<br> <span class='c010'>MOSCOW. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS.<br> TROTTING IN RUSSIA.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='c002'></div> +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Say, Mandarin, fresh from the Orient old,</div> + <div class='line'>Will they give us the queue when they give us the gold?</div> + <div class='line'>Rise, Curtin, arise! Let the Manchu declare—</div> + <div class='line'>Is he under the paw of the Great Northern Bear?</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>You uncovered the Pole, brought Pan Michael to light,</div> + <div class='line'>Ran Sienkievitch down through the vast polar night;</div> + <div class='line'>Then, skirting the coast to the isles of the Celt,</div> + <div class='line'>You caught the sweet ballads that make the heart melt,</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Thus linking two worlds. Nate Appleton tried,</div> + <div class='line'>But the Gulf was too deep, or the Isthmus too wide.</div> + <div class='line'>Brother Pratt had the keynote—he doesn’t know which,</div> + <div class='line'>Art, music, the lingo of Ivanovitch.”</div> + <div class='line in31'>—<em>James Herbert Morse.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Harvard College Class of 1863. Poem at Class Dinner of +1901.</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to Moscow.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The journey from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to Moscow +is a long ride, and in winter when the days are +short, seems to be a night which will never end. +You take the train in the afternoon and have not +accomplished many scores of versts, or disposed +of many hours, before twilight fades into dark, +and the great snow plain on every side loses its +brilliant whiteness, and has a grey and mysterious +look. So, too, in the morning, though late, the +sun is not more than fairly up when you behold +in the distance the gilded domes and fairy minarets +of the old Russian metropolis, as they first appear, +and you feel that at last you are in the heart of +the Empire. But the hours passed in the cars +are far from tedious. “Car” is the word that can +be used, for those on that railroad line much more +resembled what we have in the United States, than +anything to be found in Europe. They were +divided into small rooms or compartments, a large +saloon being left in the middle, and a passage +going the length of the car, so that you could pass +from one end to the other, and get off on either +platform. At that time no regular beds were +made up, as in our “sleepers,” but the cushions +could be comfortably arranged and the weary +traveller repose very satisfactorily. There was, +too, a room overhead for smoking, which you +entered by climbing up a narrow, ladder-like staircase, +and where the fragrant Havana could be +enjoyed in security. Double doors and windows +kept out the excessive cold, and a good stove +plentifully supplied with wood made the temperature +within all that was to be desired. The +buffets on the road could not be excelled, and a +<em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em> dinner was taken at one of the stations +about six o’clock, which offered a glittering array +of glass and silver as you entered on leaving the +train, while the display of viands alone would +tempt one, were he not ravenous with travel.</p> + +<div id='i_100' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_100.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>THE KREMLIN, MOSCOW.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>The occupants of the car, in an easy fellow-feeling +way, soon get acquainted with each other, +and throwing off the reserve they might otherwise +have, mix together in democratic freedom. +Their nationalities are soon known, if not their +names, for there is always one man aboard who +has a knack of finding them out and of communicating +<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>adroitly his information to the others, +and stories of travelling adventures in different +countries, with accounts of the queer persons met, +and the dangers escaped, beguile the hours.</p> + +<p class='c013'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg is entirely a modern city, and +a modern city like other European capitals, or, +rather, like the modern parts of them. The +stranger going there expects, very naturally, to +see predominant the stamp of Muscovite nationality +but he does not find it, as the principal public +buildings were designed by foreign architects, and +show plainly traces of the country from which +the brain that gave them birth has come.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Moscow, fortunately, is quite different, and is +well worthy of being the place where the Tsars +are crowned. Any one who dropped down their +blindfold would, as soon as the bandage was +removed from his eyes, cry out like the soldiers +of Napoleon’s army, as its green roofs and gilded +cupolas met their anxious gaze, “Moscow, Moscow!”</p> + +<p class='c013'>No city in the world has a more marked style, +which is neither of the East nor of the West, but +rather suggestions of both. Constantinople, Venice, +Vienna, all can be seen in part, and as you look +at it calmly, in awe and admiration, you can only +say, “This place is unique, it resembles nothing +else,” and you know why it is so, in reflecting that +here is the old homestead of the great Slavonic +race, a race sufficiently different from all others +to be well warranted in leaving one typical city +as a monument.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>First Letter from Moscow.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>To my mother from Moscow I wrote as follows:—I +cannot date this as there is no French paper +<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>about, and also, what with the Russian and our +difference in the calendar, time is considerably +mixed up. This cannot be better shown than +by the agreeable fact that we have two Christmas +Days this year, one which we passed in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, +and the other which comes next week, when +we are to see a real German Christmas tree at the +Carnatzes.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Well, then to begin, Mrs. Appleton, we are now +in Moscow, a truly Russian city, and as different +to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg as Boston is to Paris. We left +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P. on Saturday afternoon, and after a journey +of hours, with several Americans in the train, we +arrived here, and are comfortably established in +the Hotel Dusaux.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I first went to find Curtin, my old classmate and +the secretary of our Legation, who was much surprised +at seeing me, and said he would do his best +possible to make our stay pleasant. We then +called on my cousin Eliza Carnatz, and had no +difficulty in finding her and making ourselves +known, and she was delighted at seeing her relatives +and appreciated your present, which I am +happy to say has finally reached its destination +safely. This picture (The letter-head showing a +colored view of the Kremlin.) will do for your +scrap book, so I will leave it entire.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the evening Curtin took us to a Russian +party, and I think I passed about the pleasantest +evening there in Europe. It was at the house of +General Behring, a lineal descendant of the one +who discovered the Straits, and the <em><span lang="fr">soirée</span></em> began +with private theatricals in Russian and French, +afterwards dancing, then the mazourka, then a +sit down supper, the universal custom at parties +here, and finally the <em>cotillon</em>, something as with +us, and home between four and five.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>The General received us with charming cordiality, +and would make us believe we were doing +him a favor in coming, and his lovely daughters,—their +mother being dead,—acted well in the plays, +and did the honors of the house most gracefully.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There were several pretty Russian young ladies +there, and many were the sentiments and toasts +for the friendship between Russia and America, +the two great rising nations of the world!</p> + +<p class='c013'>The young ladies here nearly all speak English +well, besides French, German, Russian, and also, +sometimes, Italian. This is true of many of the +young men, too, and although this seems to make +us very ignorant, still, in the matter of general +education, the classics, philosophy, mathematics, +etc., I imagine we are their superiors. Moreover, +languages are almost a necessity here, while with +us they are only a very desirable luxury.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Wednesday p. m.: The day after the ball we +did not rise much before dinner time, when we +dined with the Carnatzes. The party consisted +of Coz. Eliza and husband, Mr. Watson, the +father of his first wife, a brother, a French lady +friend, and one or two others. It seemed quite +natural there, as there were several family portraits +on the walls, and her album was filled with +photographs of all of us. We had a quietly +pleasant evening, with long chats about Russia +and America, family events, literature, politics,—and +drank tea indefinitely.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russian Tea-drinking.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Tea is the national drink of the Russians, and +a genuine tea-drinking restaurant is very curious. +We went to one the other evening which is the +resort of the <em>isvoschiks</em> (cabbies) and the peasants. +Your true Russ orders a pot of tea and another +larger one of hot water, the latter of which is often +replenished, and he will sit over it several hours, +drinking fifteen or twenty cups of tea, and not +finishing until he can get no more color out of it. +What do your delicate nerves think of this?</p> + +<div id='i_104' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_104.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>DRINKING TEA.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>The tea is wonderfully good, and the commonest +stuff here would put to the blush the very best +hotel article in America and much of that you +have at family tea parties also.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday morning we went with Mr. Young, +a very pleasant and attentive young American +from Niagara, who has been here several years in +the business of agricultural implements, to see +the Kremlin, and all the big bells therein, which +are truly wonderful, and can make much noise +when they try, and in the evening to the Carnatz’s +box at the ballet of the Grand Theatre. The +building is considered, perhaps, the finest in +Europe, and the ballet itself as is always in Russia, +remarkably fine. After the ballet Charlie and +I went to a ball at the Kosakoff’s, where we had +a good idea of a fine Moscow house and the Muscovite +<em><span lang="fr">beau monde</span></em>. Dancing, supper, music, etc., +and finally I had for my partner in the German +cotillon the prettiest girl in Moscow, a Miss Martinoff.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Fast Trotters in Moscow.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We went out today to the race course, where +they often have races in sleighs, and saw the sports +of Moscow exercising their fast trotters. The +scene was very like ours at home, and we conversed +on the relative merits of Russian and American +<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>trotters, and one enthusiastic old Russ wanted +to bet two hundred thousand roubles on his country, +so that if I buy and import “Dexter” (The +fastest trotter of the time.) I can make a goodly +sum.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Snow Hills.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The snow hills are a national institution on the +same principle as our coasting, only the hills are +artificial and are all ice, and you take a lady on +the sled with you, and dash down like the wind. +There are two hills opposite, so that they go from +one to the other and then return.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Remembrance to all,</div> + <div class='line in16'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Carnatz Connection.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>My diary when a boy of fourteen had the following +entry:—“January 16, 1858. Our Russian +cousin sent us some nice things; among them were +a malachite pin and sleeve buttons, and one of +the medals thrown to the peasants at the coronation +of the present Emperor Alexander.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>My mother’s mother, Mrs. Jesse Sumner, was +a daughter of Mrs. Nathaniel Coffin, whose son +Thomas established himself in business in Moscow +about 1829, and died in Perovo, Russia, in +1832. His daughter Eliza married Mr. Carnatz, +a German. In 1870, we received the intelligence +that they proposed to remove to Dresden.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Carnatz Children.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Nothing has ever shown me more conclusively +how easy it is for children, when very young, to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>learn and speak several languages, than my experience +with my little Carnatz cousins. Of course +being Russians by birth, that may naturally have +been their first language, but their mother, who +insisted upon being an American, the country of her +father, had them at once instructed, probably by +herself, in the English tongue. Then her husband, +their father, being a German the language of the +Fatherland had its proper place. After that came +French, which was the cosmopolitan language of +all well-to-do people in the Russian empire. They +could rattle off these various languages “as easily +as rolling off a log,” and so can any one who begins +them in childhood.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Russian Mansion.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>A good type of the elegant Russian mansion +was large, made of wood and only two stories, +with a long array of rooms running <em><span lang="fr">en suite</span></em>. At +the door stood the ever watchful porter, ready +to take the <em>shubes</em> and overshoes of the guests, +and never forgetting to whom each belonged, +resplendent in his showy livery with the eagles +embroidered in the wide border of his cape, looking +the picture of comfort as he stood by the blazing +fire, the thermometer outside showing a temperature +well below the zero of Fahrenheit. +Beyond him, at the foot of the stairs, a huge, +stuffed black bear stood erect, in his paws a salver, +with a pitcher and glasses, as if bidding you welcome +to the hospitalities of the house.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The City and its Environs.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We went on many excursions in the city and +its environs. The Kremlin, with its endless interesting +<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>objects, the churches so numerous that they +say there is one for every day in the year, and +the old historical monuments from which can be +gleaned a knowledge of all the phases from barbarism +to civilization through which the vast +Muscovite nationality has passed, were carefully +and intelligently studied. We would ramble for +hours through the curious bazaar, the Gostinny +Dvor, gazing at the different wares exposed, talking +and bargaining with the shrewd Jew shopkeepers, +and picking up many curiosities, from +Persian talismans to Siberian rugs, which had +found their way to this cosmopolitan mart in +boats through the Caspian Sea and up the curving +Volga River, or in caravans all along the dreary +plains and through the steep mountain ranges, +from the interior of China and Hindostan. Malachite +from the mines in the Ural Mountains, +fragrant packages of high-priced tea, chain-armor +from Circassia, and quaint Albanian gems, gorgeous +colored silks, pipes of every description, in short, +a perfect medley of <em>bric-a-brac</em>, we hunted up +leisurely, sending daily some newly discovered +treasure to our collections.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Trotting in Russia.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The trotting during the winter months takes +place on the ice, when a large river or pond is +accessible; as, for instance, on the Neva itself at +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, which is the favorite place of all. +But a well made track on the frozen snow is nearly, +if not quite, as good, and this can be found and +laid out anywhere. The course, which is one or +two versts long,—the Russian verst is 3501 English +feet,—is in the form of an ellipse; that is, the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>length of two of the curving sides is much greater +than that of the other two, as is often seen in +American tracks, where a long and narrow piece +of ground only can be obtained. But now comes +the great peculiarity of the Russian race, which +is, that the horses do not start or trot together. +One starts from a line in the centre of one of the +long sides of the course, while the other starts +from a line exactly opposite and on the other side. +Should there be four horses entered they have two +parallel tracks close to each other, and for six +horses three of these ellipses, and so on. When +there is more than one track the effect is most +peculiar: for, at the signal for starting, the horses +all seem to be rushing off in different directions.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Then, too, the horses all start from a standstill, +each one toeing the line before the word “go” is +given. Of course, in this system, there is not the +excitement of seeing the horses together, changing +places, now one ahead, and now another; those who +break held in, and all trying to secure and keep +the pole from the others. They merely trot round +the course at their greatest speed and the one +which returns to his goal or starting point first, +is declared the winner. In case of breaking, a +certain number of steps at a gallop only is allowed +during the heat, and any horse that is not brought +down into this allotted number is thrown out of +the races by the judges, and loses his chance. It +is common to have a running horse by the side +of the trotter to excite him to his utmost speed, +but generally this horse is not harnessed, but is +mounted by a skillful rider, who keeps close alongside +of the other, knowing exactly the pace at +which he can go without breaking.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The sleighs used are very light, seemingly made +<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>of some kind of basket-work, and also very low, +the driver being seated not more than a foot off +the ground or snow, bracing himself with his feet +in a sort of stirrup on either side. Low vehicles +are also used for racing on the gravel track, and +primitive they are in appearance, a narrow board +supported on the axles, with four small wheels +nearly the same size, and the American twowheeled +spider-sulky has come into use, as the +small wheeled vehicles detract from the speed, on +account of a badly regulated centre of gravity and +excessive friction.</p> + +<p class='c013'>For getting the greatest pulling power out of +the horse with the least fatigue, and leaving all +the muscles unimpeded and in full play, the Russian +method of harnessing is excellent. The shafts +of the <em>drosky</em> or sleigh, the collar of the horse and +the duga meet at one point on the horse’s shoulder, +and at this point is all the strain of pulling. There +are neither traces nor breeching to interfere with +the action. The collar, made of wood, is carefully +fitted to the horse’s neck, and while the shafts +are inclined to press it <em>against</em> the neck, the duga +exerts a corresponding pressure out on either side, +and these three parts of the harness are so lashed +together by leather thongs that they remain firmly +in place, and it is a rare sight to find a horse with +his neck galled from exercise.</p> + +<div id='i_110' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_110.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>A COURSIER.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The horses are put on the track very young, at +the age of two, three or four years, and after that +time, are found rather to lose than increase their +speed. Perhaps there may be peculiarities in the +breed which gives them their greatest strength +when young, or it may be the climate brings out +forces which in milder regions it takes more time +to develop. Certain it is that the Russian horse, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>of which the Orloff is the handsomest type, when +taken to a foreign country soon loses his grace of +action and fire. At home they are the <em><span lang="fr">beau ideal</span></em> +of beauty, with great natural knee action, arching +necks, distended nostrils and flashing eyes, but it +has often happened that the same horse which +would attract the attention of every passer by on +the Nevski Prospect, when seen in the Bois de +Boulogne or Hyde Park has lost his distinguishing +traits and seems but an ordinary animal.</p> + +<p class='c013'>As there is always a question as to the beauty +of “banging” the horse’s tail in accordance with +the English taste, or of leaving the natural growth +as was more common in America some years ago +than at present, I would state that the tail in Russia +is left as nature made it, long and waving, and +sometimes even trailing on the ground. And for +another disputed question, whether or not it is +beneficial to clip the horse in winter, without +touching on the numerous arguments which humanity, +convenience and preference have brought plausibly +up on either side, I will simply say that in +Russia it is the universal rule to leave the horses, +whether they be for work or for pleasure, with the +long-haired coat, God has given them, untouched +all through the months when they need some protection +against the cold.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To Harness a Horse a la Russe.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>First put on the bridle, which is merely a headstall +without blinders. Saddle and surcingle together. +Collar and breeching together. Put the +horse in the shafts and put on the hoop, strapping +the shafts and hoop together with a long +strap, which is afterwards wound around the shafts. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>There is a strap on each shaft just opposite the +saddle. The one on the left shaft goes over the +saddle, passing through rings, and is wound around +the right shaft. The one on the right shaft goes +through loops under the surcingle and is wound +around the left shaft. These straps help to keep +the shafts firmly in place. The horse pulls from +his collar. The ends of the shafts and hoop must +just meet, the hoop going inside of the shafts and +pressing them out. Of the four straps from the +top of the hoop, two go under the check strap and +fasten to the bit ring, and the other two, with the +loops through which the reins pass, are fastened +to the shafts, behind the hoop. The bit should +be simple snaffle.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The running horse is on the left side. A strap +goes from his bit to the shaft of the wheeler, passing +through the martingale ring. This strap is +quite long, and gives him considerable play. The +rein, <em>only one</em>, goes from the outside ring of the bit.</p> + +<p class='c013'>For a pair of horses there are no saddles. The +traces are fastened to leather rings on the collar. +A surcingle is fastened on the traces and passes +under each horse, close behind his forelegs.</p> + +<p class='c013'>They always drive with four reins but this is +useless.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The ridiculous custom of having blinders over +the horse’s eyes is unknown to the Russians, +except as imported from other countries. The +animal is allowed to see for himself on all sides, +pleasant or ugly sights, and is not treated like an +infant, whom his human doctors suppose is going +to be frightened at what may meet his gaze. Sensible +both for horse and man is this, as the former +doubtless derives pleasure in his way from the +sights of the street or the scenery of the country, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>while the latter enjoys seeing what is one of the +finest points of a horse—his eye.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Check reins are happily not a part of the Russian +harness.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The men who congregate about the race-course +are pretty nearly the same types in all the nations +of the world. There are the elaborate dandies, +known as <em><span lang="fr">petits crévès</span></em> in France, who go because +it is the fashion to see and be seen, whether or not +they have any taste for the racing itself, and can +tell one horse from another. There are gentlemen +who really are devoted to the noble animal, +who are interested in improving the breeds, and +who, if possessed of fortune, generally have some +of their own stock taking part in the races. Then +comes the sporting fraternity of all degrees, horse +dealers sharp for making a good bargain in buying +or selling, trainers, jockeys, stable boys and besides +them plenty of loafers who are there for betting +on the race, or for “turning an honest (?) penny” +in any way that their wits suggest.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to my Mother.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Moscow, Dec. 27, 1866. This is dated by the +Russian calendar, which is just twelve days behind +ours, so you can calculate. I have a few minutes +before going to dine with Cousin Eliza to begin +this and I will dip promiscuously into some of the +events of the past week.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Christmas Tree.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Let me see,—Christmas has come and gone for +the second time this year, and we have seen the +way it is done in Russia. It is the same old story—a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>tree, <em><span lang="fr">arbre de Noël</span></em>,—everywhere, though the custom +has been brought here by the Germans.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We went to the Carnatzes about half-past seven, +and they being German of course all the arrangements +were <em><span lang="fr">a la mode Allemande</span></em>. The tree always +comes off Christmas eve, and is generally a family +gathering, gotten up especially for the amusement +of the little ones. A large tree just like ours at +home, greeted our gaze on entering, placed on a +table, brilliantly lighted, covered with all kinds of +things, bonbons, gold balls, etc., topped off with +an American flag in compliment to us. The presents +were all lying around on tables, and the tree +remains untouched for a week, so that poor children +can come in and enjoy it on different days.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Charlie and I were not forgotten, and we received +each a portfolio filled with different views of Moscow.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Every guest, on leaving, also, takes a huge box +filled with almonds, sugar plums, cakes, etc., etc., +quite enough to make you ill for a week. The +party was not very large, and we broke up just +before midnight to go to the French Catholic +church to hear the mass, but the place was jammed, +and we did not stay long. Charlie and I then +jumped into our sleigh, and the great bells of the +Kremlin and the neighboring churches were booming +all around.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Patriarchal Cathedral.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We wended our way up the hill and pushed into +the Patriarchal Cathedral of Russia, where all the +Tsars are crowned, and here we saw the Russian +mass. The crowd was so dense that it was impossible +to penetrate more than a few feet into the +church, and we soon left.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Bath.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>One evening last week we did the Russian bath. +It is perfectly delicious, a general steaming all over +first, and then you are bodily champooed by the +careful attendant,—the soap suds being, so to +speak, whipped in with a bunch of rushes flourished +round you,—and then recline at your ease, +as long as you please, and finally cool off with +differently moderated showers of water.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We have made the acquaintance of a Mr. Arnoldi, +who has a charming wife. He is a great lover of +horse flesh, and took us over a stable, where we +saw splendid specimens of the different types of +the Russian horse, and afterwards we went to the +trotting track and saw the sports with their fast +trotters. The scene was not unlike Riverside +Park at home, and very interesting to me. They +want to get up international races.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We afterwards dined with Mr. A., quite <em><span lang="fr">en famille</span></em>.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Mazourka.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We have been to another party at the aunt’s +of my lovely Miss M—, and I again watched her +going through the graceful slides of the mazourka.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There are two public balls every night now during +the holidays, sometimes a masquerade at the +Nobility Club or the Grand Opera, or again a +dance or concert at the German Club, and so on, +but the masquerades, after Paris, are tame.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The holidays are much made of here, and every +one celebrates them by getting tipsy, for the Russian, +besides his everlasting tea, also manages to +dispose of considerable <em>vodki</em>, the alcoholic drink +<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>of the country. (Spelled <em>vodki</em> and <em>vodka</em>, distilled +from rye, also from potatoes.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>To a hard working Yankee it is odd, the slowness +and want of ambition of all. For instance, +Sunday is a holiday, and the day before he prepares +himself for it, and the day after he gets sober, +and as there is on the average one fête day during +the week, when the same game is tried, it does not +leave many days for work.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Off to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Thus you see the days slip along on golden wings, +and your <em>flâneur</em> looks with horror on the bore of +packing up his traps, but we may be off on Saturday +to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I have your letter No. 11, +with the Boston gayeties. I will get you some +nice postage stamps some time, but for the present +these will suffice. Accept, also, the photograph +of Chawls and myself <em><span lang="fr">à la Russe</span></em>, with the +Kremlin in the background, and us in the front, +done up in our <em>shubes</em> and boots, and waiting the +approach of many bears. (See frontispiece.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>Fear not for our ears and noses now, for although +the thermometer keeps down steadily in the region +of “Niblo” (Meaning zero, an old joke of First +Lieutenant Peleg W. Blake of the Fifth Mass. +Battery, who when speaking of the weather always +called zero “Niblo,”) we are much more comfortable +in the streets than we are at home, where it +seems to be the fashion to be cold always out of +doors.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The photographs of Moscow are the best in the +world. (I had never seen such beautifully glazed +ones at that time.) We do not get much news +here about Americans, as there is no French paper +in Moscow, and even if there were there would be +no time to read it, we are in such a whirl of excitement. +Going to bed at four gives you a short +morning.</p> + +<div id='i_117' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_117.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>THE STAIGG PORTRAIT.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>I read the President’s (Johnson’s) message with +interest, and great satisfaction in regard to everything +except the internal politics of the United +States. How pleasant, too, is the report of the +Treasury. People here look upon our diminishing +debt with perfect amazement. Indeed the influence +which our country is giving to the world is +more perceptible every day and very noticeable +here.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We are of course much interested in the great +yacht race, and want brother Tom to come over +in the Spring, and give the graceful little <em>Alice</em> +another wetting in the Channel. Tell him she +must not go home in May. I want to sail in her +once in the summer. What a carnival there will +be in Paris, and how much nicer to be a “swell” +in Moscow than an individual in the former.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Well, adieu.      Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston.</span></h3> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Staigg Portrait.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Dec. 27, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>You can judge of my amazement, my excitement, +on going up to the drawing-room after +dinner on Christmas Day, to find before my eyes +a portrait of you, my dear Nathan, gracefully +standing with your arm holding the bridle of your +horse, and looking so like life that I really started, +reading the announcement, put on by Hattie:—“By +Atlantic Telegraph, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. A Merry +<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>Christmas!”—Why, I felt that it had actually +come from there! It is a charming picture. What +a villain you are! Of course it is not finished, +and is to go back to have some alterations.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Oh you sly boy! Coming up from Lynn (Our +summer home at the beach.) every day to give me +this delightful surprise! <em>I thank you.</em></p> + +<p class='c013'>We had a charming Christmas dinner, and, will +you believe it? the presents for the third time were +so hid they had great difficulty in finding them, +and some were obliged to be told.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>New Year’s Day in Moscow.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Russia'>Russ.</abbr>, January 2, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I begin you this, Dear “Mum,” from Moscow, +but I may finish it in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Children +of chance, that we are, how dare we calculate on +even the events of a few days? With this moral +question at the beginning, I will tell you that we +are still here, and have been through various +adventures. Among others was the dedication +of a church in the Russo Greek style, and the +magnates of the city thought we had better see +it. I did not object, as a dinner formed an important +feature. Accordingly, one of the selectmen +of Moscow routed us out of bed, and I gave him +audience in my <em><span lang="fr">robe de nuit</span></em>, and after he had conversed +some time in Russ he thought matters +would be expedited by an interpreter. I soon +discovered that his sleigh was at the door, and +that he wanted us to be off, so I hastened, and +was ready,—Charlie following in our sleigh with +Curtin.—He wore a medal and his horse was a +high stepper. We soon reached the church, and +had standing places of honor, <em>vide</em> Moscow <cite>Gazette</cite> +<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>of the next day with our distinguished names in +Russian print,—for above three and a half hours, +and we were not sorry to rattle off to the good +dinner, which the opulent merchant, who had +given the church, had had prepared for his guests. +The lunch was stunning, entirely <em><span lang="fr">à la Russe</span></em>, with +some little wrinkles I mean to remember, and the +<em>menu</em> on very gorgeous frosted paper, and a photograph +of the church under each plate. We returned +from our day’s work very much satisfied.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The society of this place is quite funny. We +have got into the very “swell” little clique of the +town, the Faubourg Saint Beacon Street of Moscow, +and like the same set in our own blessed +“Hub,” it is a close oligarchy with an endless +array of cousins. The other evening we saw a +most pretty phase of the holidays. About twenty +young ladies and cavaliers of this set, with one or +two matrons, went round the town in masquerade +with fancy domino costumes, stopping at half a +dozen different houses, at each of which they would +dance once, with a supper later. Chawls and I +went to two of the houses to see them and the +effect was stunning; a postillion rushing in first, +and then the others following in couples, Poles, +Spaniards, and Tartars, Folly, a Cook, a Baby and +her Nurse, &c., and so on. The coachman and +footman, even, were in mask, to make the disguise +as complete as possible, but we soon discovered +our friends.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I think we will try it in Boston next winter.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The society of the merchant families is quite +another set, but as they have the money now their +entertainments are on a most gorgeous scale.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>New Year’s Day.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>After all how like people are in all countries. +This is well shown by yesterday, the Russian New +Year’s Day. We got up a very “swell” trap,—a +trotter and a runner by his side,—and went about +slaughtering all our acquaintances. It was precisely +the same as in New York, except that they +gave you no grub anywhere, nor wine, though we +did see one inebriate youth driving off. Every +one always drives about the city and you get into +the state of being unable to walk ten steps. You +wo’n’t do it. Sleighs are very cheap, and the distances +are very great, so that you keep your sleigh +about you as an indispensable companion, from +twelve noon until after midnight. The coachman +follows you round like a dog, merely going off to +feed his horses some time in the afternoon. With +all this it is strange that the Russians never drive +themselves, and no matter how fine the horses of +the gay youth of the city, and how elegant his +equipage, the coachman always drives. Perhaps +this is because horses are a necessity, not a luxury, +and having to drive so much every day you do not +care to do it yourself. I think I, myself, with all +my fondness for horses, would soon be indisposed +to drive in Russia.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Groom.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The “swell” groom here has a <em>chic</em> quite his own, +and totally different from the London “tiger,” +which has spread over the rest of the continent +and America. My “Tom,” with his neat tights +and top boots, carefully trimmed whiskers and +square shoulders is very different from your +<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>bearded Russian coachman, the stouter the better, +with lozenged-shaped, pin-cushion like, velvet hat, +long tunic with a gorgeous colored sash and big +boots. They drive with both arms stretched out +at full length, and have four reins for a single pair +of horses.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Tuesday, p.m.: I will finish this off now and +take it on with me to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, tomorrow, +to mail it there, as we have decided to change our +base, in fact, having slaughtered all the fair ones of +Moscow, and having left a good impression, it is +much better to make our bows and retire quickly.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have been skating today and yesterday with a +most bright and attractive young lady, the Princess +G—— (Princess Julie Gagarine now for years +Madame la Princesse Ourousoff, one of the same +great family represented at the Races on the Newport +beach in 1866.) a cousin of the beautiful Miss +M——. Being in mourning we have not seen her in +society. She goes to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg in a few days +where we shall meet her again.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We go to our last party tonight. Private theatricals +and a ball afterwards. Last evening a +<em><span lang="fr">soirée musicale</span></em> at the Martinoffs, and a dance later +at another house.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We go to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to be quiet(?) as you +imagine, and we shall arrive just in time for the +“Blessing of the Neva,” breakfast at the Winter +Palace, Review of Troops, etc., etc., and from now +until Lent we shall have all we want of gayety.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Adieu, oh Moscow! with thy Kremlin and gilded +turrets, thy fair princesses, thy fast horses, thy +caviar and thy mazourka. Fain would we linger +here, but the hand of time points onward, and the +vague sensation of joys now past, vibrates in the +brain!</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>I have some little packages for you and Hattie +from Coz. Eliza, which will I hope reach you safely +some day. I am off now to bid her good bye.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Sister in Boston.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>January 8, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Your letter from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg arrived by the +same steamer that brought Mr. Burgess and little +Billy’s blue suit, for both of which many thanks. +I wish you could see the little man in the jacket +and cap, he looks awful cunning, and the color just +suits his complexion. They are just the right size, +and all beholders say “How remarkable that a +young man like Mr. Appleton should know just +what to get for a baby like that!”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The worsted work for the old lady was also a +great success. She thinks it the funniest thing she +ever saw. And all this page and not a word yet +about the picture!</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Staigg Portrait. The Surprise.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>... I took Elias (The old family servant.) +into the secret, and he was so important, and so +excited with it that I never expected he would get +through waiting on table that dinner, without +smashing something. You know we got it into the +house very quietly, during church time, and hid it +on the back piazza, and Elias got it up into the +drawing-room while we were eating dinner, and +coming down made such telegraphic signals that +Erny (Ernest Longfellow) who was next me, said, +“What has come over Elias? he is winking and +making such faces at you. There’s some immense +secret!”</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>As I had not my “eyes” on it was unfortunately +thrown away. When Mamma did get up and saw +it, she was fairly terrified, apparently thinking you +were there yourself in some incomprehensible way. +I don’t know but she will pull down “Rosalie” to +have a place to hang it. Brother Tom takes a +great interest in it, and brings artists to see it, who +mostly think it Staigg’s best work.... Dear +me. I have not told you about the piano we are +having constructed to match our book cases, and +with Mr. Staigg’s first sketch of you inserted in a +panel,—truly lovely!</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>On the 11th My Mother Wrote</span>:—</h3> + +<p class='c015'>Your brother Tom has just been in to read a +letter from Charlie. He was quite excited in hearing +about Russia, and really wished he was with +you to enjoy something so new. He would have +been a great addition, and talked French and made +everything as jolly as possible. He hopes that +you have made known that you were officers in the +army and wounded men, and I trust it is understood +that C. A. L. is son of the “great poet.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Your letters stir us all up, and though this is not +a regular writing day, I could not resist telling you +how much we enjoy hearing from you.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The “presentation” must have been rather a +trial, not speaking French fluently. How T. G. A. +would have rattled it off! He rather wonders that +he came home. Of course the yachting will take +him out in the Spring. We have now fine sleighing, +and he is every day on the Brighton road, but +not a “fascinating hood” is to be seen; all the +women with veils tied tight over their faces. T. G. +A. drives his pair and has some damsels with him.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>Monday Eve: Little Billy (Curtis) came to see +his Grandma this morning in full French costume; +his pretty blue coat and hat, and Astrachan fur. +It is lovely and very becoming to the little man.</p> + +<p class='c013'>All are so charmed with your picture. It gives +life and light to the old house. I cannot bear to +part with it, and I believe Staigg does not consider +it finished.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I am glad you have nice quiet apartments, and +are not at a hotel. Please be moderate, and do not +dash about and make yourself conspicuous. It is +foreign to the family name.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter from Geo. B. Shattuck.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Boston. January 8, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>A visit to No. 39, a few days since, and the +exhibition of your portrait by Staigg, spurred me +up to an undertaking which I have long been proposing +to myself, answering a letter which you +wrote to me before your departure and after mine +from San Francisco, and which was forwarded to +me here.... I was much pleased with your +picture, and thought it an excellent likeness for the +number of sittings I was told you had.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Of course, as is the duty of a good artist, he +exerts his best effort that your personal pulchritude +may not suffer, and the war-horse, etc. is rather in +the style of General Washington. You ought to +have had your negro “Joe” brought into the +picture holding the charger. The horse, as well as +I could judge from a short inspection, is well done, +and surprisingly so, if, as Mrs. Appleton told me, +this is Staigg’s first horse. I speak so at length as +I suppose the thing to have been completed since +you left home.”</p> + +<div id='i_125' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_125.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>ROSALIE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Allston’s Rosalie.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>The picture of “Rosalie” by Washington Allston, +mentioned in my sister’s letter as hanging in the +drawing-room at 39 Beacon street, and to which +the author addressed some exquisite verses, became +mine after the death of my father, at whose request +it was painted.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was in 1835, that my half-sister, the wife of +the poet Longfellow, then Miss Frances Elizabeth +Appleton, made a copy, which I now have in her +own handwriting, of the following verse which was +added by Allston some time after the original three +verses were composed:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“So, at that dreamy hour of day</div> + <div class='line'>When the last lingering ray</div> + <div class='line'>Stops on the highest cloud to play,</div> + <div class='line'>So thought the gentle Rosalie,</div> + <div class='line'>As in her maiden reverie,</div> + <div class='line'>First fell the strain of him who stole</div> + <div class='line'>In music to her soul.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>The original three verses are as follows:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Oh! pour upon my soul again</div> + <div class='line'>That sad unearthly strain</div> + <div class='line'>That seems from other worlds to plain;</div> + <div class='line'>Thus falling, falling, from afar,</div> + <div class='line'>As if some melancholy star</div> + <div class='line'>Had mingled with her light her sighs,</div> + <div class='line'>And dropped them from the skies.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>No—’tis not born of aught below,</div> + <div class='line in4'>That melting breath of wo</div> + <div class='line'>Which now doth o’er my spirit flow;</div> + <div class='line in4'>Waking the deeply-seated springs</div> + <div class='line'>Of silent joy; that round me flings</div> + <div class='line'>This nameless light—if light it be—</div> + <div class='line'>That veils the world I see.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>For every form around me wears</div> + <div class='line in4'>The hue of other spheres:</div> + <div class='line'>And something mixed of smiles and tears</div> + <div class='line'>Comes from the very air I breathe.</div> + <div class='line'>Oh, nothing, sure, the stars beneath</div> + <div class='line'>Can mold a sadness like to this—</div> + <div class='line in4'>So like angelic bliss.”    —<em>Wa. Allston.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>These three verses have the signature as given +above, in the copy in my possession. To the +peculiar circumstances under which the picture was +painted, an allusion is made in a letter to my +brother Tom in Paris, by Mr. Tom Kemper Davis +in Boston, a member of the legal profession with a +strong leaning toward literary pursuits.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Thomas Sully.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“Sully, the artist,” he wrote, “is in town. I +went with him yesterday and bowed at the shrine +of the divine ‘Rosalie’. Sully’s first exclamation, +after gazing some time at the picture, was,—</p> + +<p class='c013'>‘Raphael and Titian combined!’</p> + +<p class='c013'>Allston, by the way, has in conversation with me +frequently alluded to your father’s purchase of this +picture, and as I never heard him allude before to +any like transaction. The manner in which the +thing was done seems to have touched his heart.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>When they went to see it, the picture hung in the +drawing-room of our old house, 39 Beacon street. +That the artist Sully may have had a personal +interest in the “Rosalie,” was suggested to me by +a letter from the pen of a Washington correspondent +of the New York <cite>Daily Graphic</cite>, signed “Mary +E. Nealy,” which I chanced to see. I, being then +in London, addressed a letter to this correspondent +from 449 Strand, the Reading Room and Exchange +<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>of Robert Bowles, dated October 26, 1875, in the +following words:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“I noticed in a recent number of the <cite>Graphic</cite>, a +letter of yours from Washington, in which you +gave quite a long account of a collection of pictures +painted by Sully. My attention was attracted to +it by what you say of ‘Rosalie’, and the verses +written by Allston, because I am the owner of the +painting of ‘Rosalie’, which Washington Allston +painted, and for which he wrote the verses.</p> + +<p class='c013'>This picture was painted for my late father and +hung by the direction of Allston himself at our +house, where it has remained many years, the +admiration of all. Should you ever go to Boston, +I think it will give you pleasure to see it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I always supposed that the name was merely a +fancy one, but what you say of Allston’s intimacy +with Sully and his family, makes me believe that +quite probably the name was taken from one of +Sully’s daughters, and as such it may even be a +sort of portrait of her.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>I closed by asking for further information in +regard to the original of the picture, and received +the following reply:—</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Mary E. Nealy to N. A.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>618 Sixth Street, Washington City, <abbr title='District of Columbia'>D. C.</abbr></div> + <div class='line in24'>Nov. 18, 1875.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Your letter of enquiry in regard to the portrait of +“Rosalie” by Allston was duly received. Colonel Wheeler +does not know about it, and Mrs. Wheeler, formerly Ellen +Sully, being married before her sister Rosalie was grown, +does not <em>know</em> that the verses were inspired by her sister, +but thinks it highly probable, as Mr. Allston admired her +very much. She was very beautiful, as well as talented, +but died at an early age. Mrs. Wheeler could tell you +certainly about your picture if she could see a photograph +of it.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>I will be happy to call and see the picture if I ever go to +Boston, and thank you kindly for the privilege and the +invitation. I have been intensely interested in his +pictures, and think that few artists ever created more +lovely female heads. I have an old annual called <cite>The +Gift</cite>, published in Philadelphia, in 1842. On the title page +is a lovely vignette head, which Col. Wheeler says is +Rosalie Sully. If I could send it to you without spoiling +my book I would do so. But the more simple way would +be for you to photograph your painting.</p> + +<p class='c013'>P. S. This is a handsome and youthful brunette, with +a spirited yet most lovely and womanly expression. Her +hand supports her head, and the dark rich curls fall carelessly +about her face. Sully painted his daughters in +many positions and in various characters, and many +female heads of his, supposed to be imaginary, are portraits +of his own loved ones.</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'><cite>The Gift</cite>, edition of 1842, is in the Boston +Athenæum Library. The second picture on the +title page really does look like “Rosalie” but +younger.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Allston died in Cambridge, Mass., July 9, 1843. +Mrs. Jameson, the English author, in her Memoir +of Washington Allston, January 1, 1844, gives the +following description:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“‘Rosalie Listening to Music.’ The figure of a young +girl, life-size and three-quarters. She has been reading. +The hand which holds the book has dropped: the other is +pressed on her bosom. The head a little raised. Rapt, +yet melancholy attention in the opening eyes and parted +lips. The coloring deep, delicate, rich.</p> + +<p class='c013'>When I first saw this picture, in the drawing-room of Mr. +Appleton of Boston, I had never seen Allston, did not even +recollect his name. It at once so captivated my attention, +that I could not take my eyes from it, even though one +who might well have sat for a Rosalie was at my side. I +thought I had never beheld such a <em>countenance</em>, except in +some of the female heads of Titian or Palma. Yet the +face was not what would be termed <em>beautiful</em>; and oh, how +far from the sentimental, ringletted prettiness of our +fashionable painters!</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>When I afterwards asked Mr. Allston whether his poem +of ‘Rosalie’ had suggested the picture, or the picture the +stanzas, he replied, that, ‘as well as he could recollect, the +conception of the poem and of the picture had been +simultaneous in his mind.’ He received for this picture +1,200 dollars, about £250.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The “Rosalie” was exhibited at the Philadelphia +Centennial Exposition in 1876, and a lithograph +was published by James R. Osgood & Co., Boston, +in a collection entitled “Massachusetts Artists’ +Centennial Album, 1876.” The description is as +follows:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“This picture was painted in 1835. It represents a +beautiful girl seated, facing the spectator, with one hand +upon her bosom, and the fingers of the other between the +leaves of a red book which she holds upon one knee. A +piece of dark-brown drapery thrown across the lap nearly +hides the blue of the skirt. The waist of the dress is of +gray, with white sleeves, and is bound to the form by a +yellow girdle. The background is a dull red curtain with +a gray column at the left. The picture is owned by Mr. +Nathan Appleton. The illustration is a heliotype made +from the original.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>I loaned it for some years to the Boston Museum +of Fine Arts, and in 1893, it was exhibited at the +World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. I +afterward sold it to my brother W. S. Appleton, +and it is now at 462 Beacon Street, Boston.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Brother Tom and Allston.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Letter from T. G. A. to Mrs. Samuel Appleton.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>31st August, 1844.</div> + <div class='line in4'>Ashby de la Zouch.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I have been a week with Lady S. and her husband +Mr. Smith Wright, not far from here. Lady S. is +famous for her taste in flowers. Her conservatory +<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>is superb, and her white “yackas” unrivalled. +She has a sister like “<em><span lang="fr">ma chere Mire</span></em>” in Miss +Bremer, with a wonderful face for energy. She is +87, but quick as a girl, a very clever botanist as +well, and corresponding with all the best botanists +in England. I drove and rode and walked over +the country; magnetized a little, and drew a little, +and so the hours flew. The Everetts were there a +bit, and then flew to Scotland. To show how kind +a man Mr. Smith Wright is,—he it was at Rome +who got the Protestant burial ground enclosed, and +did away with the burial by torchlight of old time. +He is president of the Mechanics’ Institute at +Nottingham. I shall hope to see these excellent +friends again. I am the first American who ever +visited them.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday Lady S. drove me to Sir George Beaumont’s, +wishing herself to see Allston’s picture, I +had so interested her in him. On the way there +she told me how odd a person the present Sir +George was,—the nephew of the famous art +patron,—He received us at his superb porch in a +blouse, with a funny white hat on, and was in great +spirits to see us.... He took us over the fine +house, a miracle of taste, as was everything of his +uncle’s, and at length into a glass conservatory-like +gallery he had built to hold the over abounding +pictures. Here were all the first good things of +Wilkie, Leslie, etc., which Sir George bought to +encourage the young artists, but Sir G.’s own +sketches were as interesting as any, and as good. +The last one he was upon when he fell with apoplexy +was peculiarly so. It represented boys +playing over water upon a fallen tree, and every +figure was in danger. Sir G. considered this very +curious, so anticipating his own situation.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>I mentioned Allston. He jumped. “I’ll show +you a picture of his,”—and he ran for the key. +It is in a lovely gray stone church, close to the +house, a sort of guardian angel to the place.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Allston’s picture is the only one in the church. +It is the one he often spoke to me about. It is ill +placed, and ill lit, but wonderfully fine. An angel +in white with sky blue scarf fluttering, points, +while standing on the steps, to the prison door with +a radiant hand, while Peter lifts a majestic face, +heavy with sleep, upon the Angelus from between +his bent and drowsy guards.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There is a huge <em>patine</em> of moonlight breaking +through the grates of the prison above.... The +angel’s hair is nut brown and a little too pretty for +so sacred a subject. It reminded me of “Rosalie’s” +which is womanly, not angelic. The figures are +life size and the picture one of Allston’s fine ones +tho’ not equal to the “Jeremiah,” “Miriam” or +“Balshazzar.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>We spent hours in wandering through the +grounds....</p> + +<p class='c013'>Oh! the dairy, you should see that! An arched +alcove, all <em>tiles</em> above and below, rows of huge +cream bowls standing upon marble slabs, and a +fountain coolly splashing from an antique mask at +one end. This gem of a dairy was dead Lady +Beaumont’s doing.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There were poems of Wordsworth cut in stone +about the walks. He was a great friend of the +former Sir George, and I saw a stone seat, the rock +cut, in which he wrote many of his poems. When +one thinks of this lovely place and the great men, +Sir George, Allston, Wordsworth, and Beaumont +and Fletcher,—this is one of the family,—perhaps +Shakespeare, one must allow this to be almost +unmatched as a country seat.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>On page 67, of brother Tom’s volume of poems +entitled “Faded Leaves,” in one addressed to +Allston after seeing his “Peter delivered from +Prison” at Colcorton Hall, in Wordsworth’s winter +garden, may be found the following stanzas:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“A portion of thy soul divine</div> + <div class='line'>Is fitly shrined in yon meek aisle</div> + <div class='line'>Where arching roofs in prayer incline,</div> + <div class='line'>And chasten all the silent pile.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Ah! yes, dear Allston, from the bars</div> + <div class='line'>And dungeon of this mortal sphere,</div> + <div class='line'>At length thy spirit seeks the stars,</div> + <div class='line'>Free in their happier atmosphere.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother at Boston.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“February 24, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I do think you are having splendid times. The +last princess seems to be the loveliest. And then +the furs, and the slippers, and the table covers, and +the malachite! Oh, what a boy!</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Sayles (Henry Sayles) and Ned Brown +(Edward Ingersol Brown) called to see me and were +so much pleased with your picture. (Staigg +portrait.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>They were told you <em>really sent</em> a telegram from +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg on Christmas Day, and thought it +so like you to do it. W. S. A. is in pursuit of a +second pair for his four-in-hand. I do not approve +so much display.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>In another letter my mother observes parenthetically:—“You +must remember I am an old lady +and belong to the old school of manners and +propriety, which has sadly changed since my day.”</p> + +<div id='i_133' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_133.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA. ILL. LONDON NEWS.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SIXTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ST. PETERSBURG. THE NEVA. NOVGOROD. POLAND.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“We look into each other’s eyes,</div> + <div class='line'>And see a friendly peace which says,</div> + <div class='line'>While on the snowy Cossack flies,</div> + <div class='line'>‘Rave ye without, here Quiet stays.’</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>This silent, unexpressed delight</div> + <div class='line'>Glows brighter so severely set:</div> + <div class='line'>Heart-warm against the stormy white,</div> + <div class='line'>The Rose of Joy burns warmer yet.”</div> + <div class='line in20'>—<em>Thomas Gold Appleton</em></div> + <div class='line in16'><cite>A Snow Storm</cite>, Jan. 17, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Blessing of The Neva.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, Jan’y 20, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Mama.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Here we are back at the capital, where we were +most enthusiastically received by our hostess +Madame Octavie, who expressed great joy at seeing +her “little Americans” safely returned, and +installed us into our old apartments.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Your letters came the next day, with accounts +of Christmas festivities at home, and the prospective +party for New Year.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I am so glad that the portrait <em><span lang="fr">à la militaire</span></em> has +been accomplished enough to show what it is, and +that the likeness is good, and the whole thing gives +pleasure. I rather pride myself upon it, for the +idea of the composition and pose was quite my own, +and the secrecy with which it has all been done is +commendable.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>Driving down the Nevski from the Moscow +station <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg looked <em>so</em> funny, not in the +least like a Russian city, but a great, sprawling +capital, and they tell us it is not gay here at all, +especially after Moscow. No balls at Court as yet, +as the government is not very rich just now, and +after the tremendous expenses of entertaining our +fleet last summer, and later all the gorgeous display +connected with the wedding of the Tsarevitch, they +are really trying to economize a bit. This is good +theoretically, but not for us individually, and I +hope we shall see one big ball at the Winter Palace.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The morning after our return was the day of the +ceremony of the baptism of the Neva, which the +Emperor attends. We received invitations to the +Palace to go with the Diplomatic Corps, and +although we could not see much of the performance +outside,—and how the poor fellows, Tsar, priests, +and “strikers” have to suffer with uncovered heads +in the bitter cold,—we got a very good idea of +the male portion of the Russian court in the Palace, +and afterwards enjoyed an excellent breakfast. +It was quite striking to see us, the only two civilians +in the big throng of officers, courtiers and +diplomats, and it was a pleasant feeling that the +grandeur of America does not go in for outside +display.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We dined yesterday at the English Club with +Curtin, the best one in the city, and English only +in name, and later played Russian nine-pins with +a party of officers.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I skated, also, on the Neva Club grounds, which +have been carefully arranged during our absence, +and it was very jolly there, with music and all the +swells of the city. The costumes are very effective, +and add much to the brilliancy of the scene, those +<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>of the gentlemen being quite as elaborate as of the +ladies, velvet jackets and tight fitting tunics +trimmed with fur and slashed <em><span lang="fr">à la Polenaise</span></em>, with +Knickerbockers and leggings. It is strange that +if a gentleman with us should attempt to wear such +a costume, elegant, comfortable, and appropriate +for the ice, he would be set down as a snob. The +democratic principle of every one always wearing +the same style of raiment on all occasions may, +perhaps, be good, but it certainly takes away much +from the beauty of any assemblage of human +beings.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The ladies were much as in New York or Jamaica +Pond, with the addition of the omnipresent <em>basilisk</em> +or hood, made of different colored cloth, and +trimmed with gold or silver braid. We mean to +bring several of them home, as there is nothing +prettier or more genuinely Russian here to take +away, and for a lady to wear sleigh-riding they are +perfect. I hope to see some of my own on the +Brighton road next winter.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Today was held the first race of the season on +the river, but it was so very cold that it was not +particularly amusing to witness. The horses look +fine, parading about covered with Persian blankets. +Monday morning. Very early! We start in a few +minutes on an excursion of two or three days to +Novgorod the Great, once the capital of Russia, +and I have just time to seal this up without finishing +it.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Therefore in haste,      Nathan.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Fox’s Mission to Russia.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The reference in my letter to our fleet and its +presence in Russia is to Fox’s mission. On the +16th of May, 1866, the President of the United +<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>States, Andrew Johnson, signed a joint resolution +passed by Congress, congratulating the twenty +million serfs upon the providential escape from +assassination of the Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, by the +hand of an enemy of emancipation, and in order to +give additional significance to the act, Congress +selected the Hon. Gustavus Vasa Fox, assistant +secretary of the navy during the entire period of +the war for the Preservation of the Union, to perform +the delicate mission of carrying this resolution +to the Emperor of Russia. He was sent in the two +turreted monitor <em>Miantonomoh</em>, a class of vessel +which had never before crossed the Atlantic, and +the <em>Augusta</em> and <cite>Ashuelot</cite>, two wooden men-of-war, +accompanied the <em>Miantonomoh</em>.</p> + +<p class='c013'>August 6 (July 23) 1866, the fleet arrived in the +harbor of Cronstadt, on the 17th the Tsar sent the +address acknowledging the visit of Mr. Fox, and on +Saturday, September 15 (3d) Mr. Fox left Saint +Petersburg, after a farewell breakfast given on the +Russian yacht <em>Rurik</em> at which Lieutenant General +Greig said in a speech while presenting a medal +struck in memory of the enfranchisement of the +peasants:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“He will see on it the likeness of our blessed +sovereign, and the effigy of a nobleman and of a +peasant.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>A narrative of this mission to Russia from the +Journal and Notes of J. F. Loubat (Duc deLoubat) +was published in 1873, and presented to me in New +York, by the author, September 28th of the same +year.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Ceremony of Blessing the Waters.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In some notes made in February, 1879, and +printed in the Boston <cite>Advertiser</cite> under the title +<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>“<cite>Outre Mer</cite>,” I referred to the occasion of the +annual benediction of the Neva, a rite of the Orthodox +Church commemorative of the baptism of the +Saviour, when the Tsar takes his position in an +open chapel built out on the quay, and the ice +below having been broken the Metropolitan blesses +the waters and the cross is dipped therein three +times:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“It takes place just opposite the Winter Palace, +and all the guests witness it comfortably from the +windows of one of the large rooms of the palace, +while the Tsar and the priests and those who +actually participate in it have to go out with bare +heads in the cold and take some of the water from +the frozen Neva, which they can only get through +a hole made in the ice. It is principally a religious +service, with rites performed upon a handsome +platform, with a canopy above, erected for it +between the palace and the water. It does not +last long, and in this instance the Emperor and his +suite might well have been glad to get out of the +intense cold when it was over.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We had some difficulty that day, my companion +and myself, in getting up to the door of the Winter +Palace. We had our cards of invitation all correct, +indicating where we should go, and we supposed +that our <em>invostchik</em>, or the driver of the sleigh +we used every day, understood it perfectly. But +it seems he did not, and we were stopped by a +mounted soldier to whom we could not talk a word, +while we brandished the card before him. But this +did not work, and we had to turn back. We were +at our wits’ ends, determined if possible not to miss +the sight, and I suggested that we should drive at +once to the United States Minister’s residence, +General Clay, to see if we could not find his servant, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>or some one who would act as pilot. On the road +we met our commissionaire whom we had dismissed +at the hotel, thinking we should not need +him, and took him in front with the driver.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>A Friend at Court.</span>”</h3> + +<p class='c015'>As it was then rather late we drove up to the +nearest door of the palace, but not the one designated +for us to enter on the card. There we met +one of the young officers of the imperial household +whose acquaintance we had made at our regular +presentation to the Tsar some weeks before, and, +explaining to him our dilemma he said it was all +right, and put us in charge of a <em>chasseur</em>, who was +to conduct us to our proper places. He was a +gorgeously dressed fellow, with a very tall plume +in his hat, and slowly took us along through the +endless <em>salons</em> of the building, which were filled +with people,—ladies in the galleries,—and at +length reached the room set apart for the Diplomatic +Corps and distinguished strangers who +happened to be in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, where we had a +view of the ceremonies.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Cousinly View.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Cousin at Moscow to My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Moscow, January 22, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>My dear Cousin.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>About a month ago, as I was standing at the +window, I saw two gentlemen stop at our door, with +very English faces as I thought. I was surprised, +for I expected no visitors from abroad, but how +much greater was my surprise when the two gentlemen +were introduced as Mr. Appleton and Mr. +Longfellow.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>You may well imagine my joy at seeing some of +my American relations at last. Their stay in +Moscow was for me a perfect enjoyment. I had +such pleasure in seeing them, and saw them as +often as was possible, for they had so many invitations +from all sides that they could hardly find +time to answer them all: they went very much +among the nobility.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Nathan admired the Russian ladies much and +teased me all the time by saying he would marry +a Russian Princess or a Polish countess. I said I +would not acknowledge him after that, he must +remain constant to the American beauties. He +left Moscow, however, with the firm intention of +falling desperately in love with the first fairy +princess he met in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I trust, however, +that the 30 degrees of frost we have at the +present moment will freeze his heart so as not to +admit any warmer feeling into it, and prevent +melting away those he brought with him from +America.</p> + +<p class='c013'>You may well think, dear cousin, how much +Nathan and Charles had to tell us about you all, +and it seems as if since I know them the ocean has +disappeared between us, and we are brought nearer +to each other. How much I should like to see you +and know you all, and always will regret not to +have gone over to Boston during the three months +I stayed in Ostend, some twelve years ago. I +should have then seen our dear Grandmamma, let +me call her thus, dear cousin, for she was to me +more than ever an aunt could be.</p> + +<p class='c013'>How much I value the beautiful pin you sent me +is needless to say. Receive my warmest and +sincerest thanks for this kind attention, and believe +me, dear cousin, that I shall always wear the pin, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>so dear to me, in remembrance of our dear Grandmamma +and of yourself.</p> + +<p class='c013'>How do you like Nathan’s and Charles’s photograph +in their furs? (See frontispiece.) We admire +it much, and I claimed one for my album.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Kiss the dear baby for me. I sent him a pair of +little red Russian boots, which I hope he will be +able to wear by the time they reach him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Good bye, dear cousin, write to me sometimes, +and tell me something about our travellers that +interest me much. My husband begs to be kindly +remembered to you and your dear family.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Most affectionately,</div> + <div class='line in14'>Eliza Carnatz.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Novgorod.</span><br> <span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Saint Petersburg,</div> + <div class='line in4'>January 28, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><em><span lang="fr">Ma chère Maman.</span></em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Our little trip to Novgorod was most successful. +We went down the railroad about 70 miles, to +Tchudova, and there took the <em>troikas</em> and the +funniest vehicle imaginable, in which you lie down +on the hay and are covered up with felt and skins. +We made our forty-five miles in a few hours, arriving +at the town in time for supper and bed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The next morning we set about seeing the sights +of the place, which are very few, the old church of +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Sophia and the modern monument celebrating +the 1000th anniversary of Russia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>What a quaint old place, with its Kremlin, and +its white yellow churches, and everything so +Russian!</p> + +<div id='i_140' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_140.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>I found a fascinating antiquary, who would have +driven Billy crazy, in his gown and skull cap. He +had a book store in his house, with curiosities and +minerals, and I bought a Russian missal of the 14th +century (I afterwards gave it to the Boston Public +Library.) and a few coins and odds and ends.</p> + +<div id='i_141' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_141.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>SKATING IN THE YOUSOUPOFF GARDEN.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Midnight Drive.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>We made the journey home by night, with the +mercury near zero, and cold enough it was. I had +two pairs of gloves on, and mittens over them, and +was just comfortable. We rattled along over the +snow, with a bright moon, and clear, cold stars, +stopping now and then at wayside inns to drink tea +and warm up.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Nothing have we done more Russ than our midnight +drive from Novgorod.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday we dined with the Count Besborodko, +the one who owns the “swell” palace I mentioned +in a previous letter. The dinner was good, the +company gay, the Countess charming, and never +in my life was I so <em><span lang="fr">en train</span></em> to speak French easily. +I surprised myself. We came home early, changed +our dress, and went for a little while to the fête of +the Yacht Club Skating ground, which was brilliantly +illuminated with lanterns, grottoes of ice +with Bengal lights thrown upon them, stuffed +bears, pretty toilettes, etc. etc.—music.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Isla.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>But even this was not enough for the evening, so +off we go to Isla, a café, theatre, skating ground +combined, a few miles into the country, where +there are life size statues made of ice in the garden.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Shall we go to the <em><span lang="fr">bal masqué</span></em> at the Opera House? +<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>No, it will hardly pay to put on our funereals twice +the same evening, so go to bed quietly, and good +night!</p> + +<p class='c013'>Since my last return here I have been making +many purchases preparatory to leaving the place.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Your beautiful sables have been selected, paid +for and packed up, and I hope they will come home +in safety.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Circassian Uniform.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“‘Brave in battle,’ ‘eloquent in assembly,’ are great +titles in Circassia. But he who is the ‘most hospitable’ +wears the brightest crown of all.... A Circassian is +always a Circassian.”</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>—<em>Colonel Richard Henry Savage.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“A land of the sword and spear, of the chase and mighty +woodcraft—Circassia.”</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>—<em>R. H. S.</em> 1876.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother Continued.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I have got Master Will a Circassian overcoat for +winter, and myself a Circassian uniform, for fancy +balls at home, very handsome and effective it is +too. Charlie has had a Russian dress made for the +same object. I have picked up in the Bazaar some +nice things in the way of arms,—pistols, daggers +and swords, and am looking for some chain armor. +Today I bought all the malachite I want, a few +pretty pieces only. My Russian harness has come, +and very nice it is, so light and graceful. Look out +for me on the avenue next summer crying “<em><span lang="ru">berages</span></em>,” +Russian for “Look out!” “Take care!”</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have bought you a lovely Persian table cloth +and myself a cover for an easy chair for smoking.</p> + +<div id='i_142' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_142.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>We went the other evening to see the Davenport +Brothers, who are here now, and as luck would have +<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>it I was drawn by lot to tie one of them in the box. +Funny that way out in Russia they should be tied +up by a fellow countryman. There was quite a +party of us Americans there, and we chatted with +them after the performance. It was very good and +just what I have often seen.</p> + +<p class='c013'>29th. Morning:—I have just received a big +packet of letters; among them one from Georgie +Shattuck. He gives me a very good idea of just +what is going on in Boston.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Last eve we were again at the Opera, in the +Pierces’ box. The Barber of Seville—I have often +heard it—with an ugly prima-donna. Tonight +we go first to a ballet, “Meteora,” and after to a +ball at Lady Buchanan’s the English ambassadress, +and, perhaps, at two o’clock, to a costume ball at +one of the Clubs. Saturday next is my birthday, +and I am to give a gentlemen’s dinner to Russians +and Americans.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have many things here which are not completed, +and I want all my purchases well packed +up and directed, before I leave the place, and, try +as hard as you please, it is difficult to accomplish +much each day.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We made the acquaintance a few days past of +the Souworoff family, the descendants of the great +old fighter whose sabre rang all over Europe. The +young princess was very nice and jolly, and did not +like it that her mother would not let her skate and +flirt. The old party was eminently proper and conservative +in all her ideas, and reminded me of +several ladies in Boston I might perhaps mention.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We passed one evening last week quietly with +Mr. Prince, as he was very desirous we should. +What are you going to do this summer? Will +quiet Lynn content you, or is it Niagara, Saratoga, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>or Newport? Go in for a house there, and I will +come home by the first of August, in time for the +season. I hear the Americans are cutting great +rigs in Paris. Thank Mr. Burgess for me for the +arrival of the package. Breakfast being ready, +12 m., I will say in the last words of many French +comedies, “<span lang="fr">à table</span>”.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Costume Ball at Delmonico’s.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Send me a dream tonight,</div> + <div class='line'>A dream of the boy-time days,</div> + <div class='line'>Stop for me the shuttle of Time</div> + <div class='line in4'>That ever so swiftly plays—</div> + <div class='line'>A dream of the other days,</div> + <div class='line'>When the sky was ever bright—</div> + <div class='line'>Unravel the warp and woof of years—</div> + <div class='line in4'>Send me a dream tonight.”</div> + <div class='line in8'>—<cite>Baltimore American</cite>, April, 1900.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>From a journal of a visit to New York and +Philadelphia, made in March and April, 1875, I +extract the following written in my den, 788 Broadway, +Room 16, New York, April 11th:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“Since I left Boston, nearly three weeks ago, I +have been through some such interesting experiences +that I must certainly record them in my +diary. But it is no easy thing to catch them as +they go by, so rapid a life do we lead in the great +cities and so full of movement is the time, still, I +will try.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The event of the season among the few hundred +persons who make up the fashionables of New York +society, was the <em><span lang="fr">Bal Costumé</span></em> given at Delmonico’s +by thirty gentlemen on Easter Monday, March 29, +1875.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I was invited to take part in the Oriental Quadrille +gotten up by Miss Minnie Stevens (Daughter +<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>of Mr. and Mrs. Paran Stevens, and afterwards wife +of Arthur Henry Fitzroy Paget.) as I had a fine +Circassian officer’s dress, which I had had made +years ago in Saint Petersburg, just for occasions of +the kind.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Sunday before the ball I dined at Mr. S. L. +M. Barlow’s, No. 1 Madison Avenue, as my partner +in the quadrille was to be Miss Barlow, and it was +a kind attention on their part to invite me to dinner.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The other guests were Mr. Manton Marble and +Mr. Hurlburt of the New York <cite>World</cite>, one of the +organs of the Democratic party. These gentlemen, +with Messrs. Barlow, Belmont and others, +were very intimate, and all leading spirits of the +Manhattan Club.</p> + +<p class='c013'>After dessert, I took occasion to say, in a conversation +in which some of the leaders were being +discussed, that the Democratic party to succeed +must get rid of many of its old planks, which would +not support any one today; that there were plenty +of young fellows like myself and others, who had +been in the war, and were now growing up to take +part in public matters, who could not, and would +not, place confidence in the men whose record had +been such as that of the leaders of the Northern +Democrats, the last fifteen years.</p> + +<p class='c013'>But how I have departed from the ball!</p> + +<p class='c013'>Instead of describing it particularly I insert here +a drawing and notice of it from Frank Leslie’s +paper, also the card of invitation, etc. (The +illustration represented the ball room with the ball +in progress, showing many of the finest costumes.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>The invitation was for a <em><span lang="fr">Bal Costumé—costume +de rigueur</span></em>,—signed by H. S. Fearing, secretary, +and the time was nine o’clock. The reverse of the +card bore the names of twenty-eight gentlemen; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>among them August Belmont, W. W. Astor, and +A. Thorndike Rice.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The representative of <em>Frank Leslie’s</em> said in his +report:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“All that bright flowers, perfumed air, sweet music, +flashing diamonds, manly beauty, female loveliness, +elegant costumes, and grace and refinement could contribute +to such a scene, were found there.... One +of the features of the evening was an Eastern quadrille of +which Miss Stevens of Fifth Avenue was queen. The +costumes of the eight forming the set were superb!”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The note from Miss Minnie Stevens to me with +regard to the ball, was as follows:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“I write you some time ahead to know if it is possible +for you to be in New York a week from Monday, that is to +say, the Monday before the ball. We have arranged to +dance the quadrille at our place on that evening, for you +have no idea how little any one knows about dancing it, +and, as the audience will be large, it would be very mortifying +to make several mistakes. As there is to be a procession +formed, we have also to know our partners and our +places. I hope you will be able to get here for the rehearsal +on Monday the 22d as I would like all the sixteen to come +together. I am in despair about my dress, it is so difficult +to get up. Hoping soon to have the pleasure of seeing +you,</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>I am sincerely yours,</div> + <div class='line in18'>Minnie Stevens.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>This was the handsomest ball of the kind I ever +saw, as nearly all the costumes were remarkable for +richness, and few or none of them had a cheap or +tawdry look. The march in of all of us who took +part in the opening quadrille, was a brilliant sight.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Before going to it I went to show myself off in +costume at the Appletons’, 3 Madison Avenue, and +also at the Beckwiths’ on Fifth Avenue and 18th +Street, whence I escorted Miss Helen Beckwith +<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>(Now Mrs. Dudley Leigh.) in the dress of a Circassian +slave across the street to the Belmonts’, where +there was a large reception, for those in costume +particularly, for the benefit of the invalid daughter +who could not go to the ball, but naturally wanted +to see the people and the dresses. I was glad to +have the chance of paying a call at the house. Mrs. +Belmont looked remarkably well, and her other +daughter (Now Mrs. Samuel S. Howland.) too, as +pretty as possible in Pompadour costume.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At the ball I sat at a supper table with Mrs. +Strong,—née Ruggles,—chatting and looking +at the different persons as they passed by; also, +with Mrs. General Barlow née Shaw. This was a +quiet and comfortable way of enjoying the fête. +Then I danced the “<em>cotillon</em>” with Mrs. Kemys—the +cotillon which was led by Jimmy Otis with all +the animation of twenty years before.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Strolling to my den through 14th street and +Broadway, just as the day was dawning, I got into +bed, well tired, a little before six o’clock.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From Miss Stevens on Receipt of the Photograph, 1877.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“So many thanks for the charming photograph just +received. It was very kind of you to have remembered +me, and so justly divined my wish.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The ‘Circassian’ shall join its companions in the album +of the oriental quadrille. We are going to England some +time this spring, but I hope only to return for the summer +at dear old Newport, which we all must acknowledge has +no rivals.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Loom of the East.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I wore my Circassian costume again at my +brother’s house, 10 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>at the meeting of the Bric-a-Brac Club, January +17th, 1877, when I read his paper on “The Loom +of the East” (Fifth chapter of “Windfalls” by +Thomas Gold Appleton, author of “A Sheaf of +Papers,” “A Nile Journal,” “Syrian Sunshine” +etc.) my brother suffering from a fall at the time.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Twenty-Fourth Birthday.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Sunday, Feb. 3, 1867.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“Your birthday (February 2d) was not forgotten, +and as I sat at my lonely meal, I could only +wish you, my boy, many years of happiness,—not +the giddy enjoyment of the present hour, but solid +days of reality, when the heart shall be satisfied, +and all this fascination of travel and society shall +have lost some of its freshness, and you will not +care for a ‘spike’ team, or a ‘four-in-hand’.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Last Letter from Russia in ’67.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, February 3, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Yes, Mamma, it is here. We are off tomorrow +for Warsaw. We leave this delightful place, with +its cold climate and its warm hearts. Willingly +would I linger here a week or two more, but Charles +is resolute, and has been saying for the last few +days that he <em>will</em> go tomorrow, and can’t be stopped.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Our boxes are packed, our bills paid, and as it +would be quite impossible to find a time when we +would not like to stay longer, perhaps it is as well +to go now as ever.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span> + <h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>20 and 30 Below.</span>”</h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>It is mild today, but the four days before have +been such cold as I never experienced; the mercury +being all the time between twenty and thirty below +the zero of Fahrenheit. In fact the people here +say they have not had such a snap for years. We +were fortunate not to get frozen, for our <em>isvoschik</em> +was in a continued state of freeze,—which he did +not seem to mind,—notwithstanding the neckkerchief +and mittens we gave him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The intense cold interferes little with your life, +and wrapped up in our <em>shubes</em> we spend the day +calling or shopping, or by night go from ballet to +ball till late in the morning. They have huge fires +built in front of the Opera House, and the Winter +Palace, for the coachmen to keep warm.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russian Footmen.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The life of a footman here is odd enough. Their +principal duty is to look after the cloaks and overshoes +of their masters and mistresses, and they +follow them about all day and night, sitting and +sleeping in the entries of private houses during a +visit and the duration of a ball, and in the foyer of +the theatre for the entire performance of the opera +or play.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The carriages, too, are always drawn up in line +at the theatre or ball, and stay there all night +instead of going home and returning at a certain +hour. What would the tender coachmen and hackmen +of Boston say to that, who do not like to wait +half an hour?</p> + +<p class='c013'>This is strange, when it is so cold, especially for +<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>the horses, but they are never clipped, and the men +are very thickly dressed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At all the “swell” houses they have an impressive +flunkey in the entry, with a huge knobbed +stick like a drum major or beadle, dressed in +gorgeous livery, a red sash a foot wide and covered +with embroidered black, double-headed eagles. +All he does is to open and shut the front door. In +fact, at all houses, shops, and hotels, they have a +porter, generally an old soldier covered with +medals, to take off and put on overcoats and boots +and goloshes.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Every house in Russia is double windowed and +treble doored, and between the two panes of the +windows there are artificial flowers.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The houses are too hot, and the air bad, so that +they use incense everywhere in the country.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Lady Buchanan’s Ball.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The ball at the British embassy was very good, +and we were introduced to the prettiest girl in the +city, the little Countess Apraxine. We met, also, +a charming young lady, the Princess Ourousoff, a +cousin of my friend at Newport last summer.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Today we have been lunching at the Prince +Galitzine’s, with a crowd of jolly young dogs; +among them the son of the celebrated Gortschakoff.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Tsarskoë Selo.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We passed one day last week at Tsarskoë Selo, +visiting the palace, a summer residence of the +Emperor; also, the arsenal with splendid armor, +and the imperial dairy, where we ate cheese and +drank imperial milk. We afterwards dined with +Gen. Gogol, the commander of the department, who +was very strong on the <em><span lang="fr">entente cordiale</span></em> between us, +with a most healthy detestation of England. He +was another good specimen of that well-known +type of humanity, the Russian general.</p> + +<div id='i_151' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_151.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>SLEDGE DRAWN BY REINDEER.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>The Palace was the best I ever saw, they being +generally cold, cheerless, all alike, and a bore, but +this looked like a habitable place, with a blue and +silver boudoir, a room entirely made of Japan wood, +with panels, pictures, furniture, all Japanese; one +room papered with amber, and at last a Persian +smoking room, small and cozy, filled with bits of +armor and pipes, divans, and a tiny fountain sunk +in the middle of the room.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have been doing up sights rapidly, preparatory +to leaving; for instance, the Admiralty, where an +officer showed us all the models, interesting to +Charles, especially the Yankee cutters; the Academy +of Fine Arts from which, however, the best +paintings have already been sent to Paris. (For +the Exposition.) I wanted to get a fair idea of the +Russian school, as it is now very little known out +of the country, but headed by Zitchy, a genius. I +have photographs which will give you an idea of +his talent.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Imperial Library one day I slaughtered, well +repaying a visit, but finally, today, we gave a +hurried half-hour to a last, lingering gaze at the +treasures in the Hermitage.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Drive with Reindeer.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Yesterday, in all the cold, we took a five minute +drive in a sledge drawn by three reindeer on the +Neva, just to say we had done it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Midnight and after:—I take up my festive quill +<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>for the last time in Petersburg, to finish a family +epistle.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We have been to see our last ballet tonight, and +then out to Tivoli, a restaurant in the suburbs of +the city, with a “swell” skating pond under glass. +We have been meaning to see the place for a long +while, but have not accomplished it before our +last eve.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We have our government permission to leave +the country, and nothing now remains for us to do +but gracefully take off our hats and give a parting +kiss to Russia.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Nate.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Please see that all my military traps are safely +returned from the studio of Staigg,—sword, bridle, +jacket, belt, etc. Ask T. G. A. to write me his +opinion of the picture.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gas-Lighting in Moscow.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Feb. 10, 1867.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“Did you witness the lighting of Moscow with +gas? It must have been a great occasion from the +newspaper accounts. It seems strange it should +not have been done before this.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gifts to the South.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Mr. George Peabody has made a munificent gift +to the country of $1,500,000 for educational purposes +in the South, so that I am sure the North +may feel relieved of all responsibility.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I read in this evening’s <cite>Transcript</cite>, that the +largest room in the world is in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, did +you see it? Twenty thousand wax tapers are +required to light it properly.</p> + +<div id='i_153' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_153.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>DROSKY.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>It is simply ridiculous the way people are to be +<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>off, there will be eight or nine vacant houses at +Nahant.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Later, in a letter dated March 31, 1867, my +mother mentioned the gift of 100,000 volumes of +school books, which the New York Appleton firm +had added to the educational gift of Mr. Peabody.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>Poor Poland.</span>”</h3> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Good Kosciusko! thy great name alone</div> + <div class='line in2'>Is a full harvest whence to reap high feeling;</div> + <div class='line in2'>It comes upon us like the glorious pealing</div> + <div class='line'>Of the wide spheres—an everlasting tone.”</div> + <div class='line in20'>—<em>John Keats.</em> <cite>To Kosciusko.</cite></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother.</span></h3> + +<div class='lg-container-r c004'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Vienna, Feb. 12, 1867.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>From Saint Petersburg to here, a long pull, is it +not? and what a change in temperature from the +icy zero of the Neva to that which seems almost +like summer! We saw the snow disappear on our +way, and wheels gradually take the place of runners, +and now that I am far away, and in a city, +which like most European ones, is an attempted +copy of Paris, how brilliantly indeed do the peculiarities +of Russia stand forth.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We left <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P. one morning and the evening of +the next day were in Warsaw. Returning to our +hotel late from a ball, we were accosted and stopped +by a policeman of whom I asked the way, and he +very politely took us all (Mr. W. F. Nisbet, an +American gentleman who came with us from Russia, +C. A. L. and myself.) to the station house. It +seems no one in Warsaw is allowed to be out after +midnight without a “pass,” and we had neglected +to get them.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>We coolly entered and sat down and burst out +laughing, and at length I explained in my bad +German, to an official who talked an equally bad +lingo, our situation, impressing him with the fact +of the greatness of the Amerikanski alliance, and +we were soon escorted home.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The next day we rambled about the town, saw +the palaces and the pretty ladies, and were attended +to by some young Russian swells to whom we had +letters from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. In the theatre we saw +the Mazourka most gorgeously danced in true +Polish national costume, which was not allowed +here a few years ago.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Poor old Poland! What is left of her former +greatness? Alas, nothing but the mazourka. As +can be aptly said, how like to Byron’s Greece:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>We have the Polish dance as yet,</div> + <div class='line'>Where is the Polish phalanx gone?</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>Better this than nothing, as it helps keep up still +the nationality of the people.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The next morning Charles and I were off to +Cracow, the old capital of Poland, and one of the +most interesting and quaint old towns I had ever +seen, with its Square and Schloss, and the church +where all the kings of Poland have been crowned +and buried, and we mysteriously descended the +vault, and saw the tombs of Jagellon, Paniatowski, +and our good friend Kosciusko.</p> + +<p class='c013'>This is an Austrian territory, where the rule is +much less rigid, and we saw many old Poles in +faded frogged coats and square caps, and the +antique equipages and livery of families once the +greatest in Europe.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I was never so impressed before with the hard +<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>fate of Poland, a great nation actually annihilated, +and I got up my sympathy more on my journey by +reading a most interesting history of Poland by +Mickiewicz.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There happens to be a big salt mine near Cracow, +and as we had never seen anything of the sort +before, we descended with Bengal lights and what +not, and did the whole thing: illuminated chambers, +ferried across the Styx, crystal dance halls, and all, +hundreds of feet below ground.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Parting Company.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The next morning we were up early for the train, +and Charles and I, after two and more most agreeable +months together, parted company; he for +Dresden and then Paris, and I for Vienna.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SEVENTH.<br> <span class='c010'>CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Friend of my youth! when young we roved,</div> + <div class='line'>Like striplings, mutually beloved,</div> + <div class='line in5'>With friendship’s purest glow,</div> + <div class='line'>The bliss which winged those rosy hours</div> + <div class='line'>Was such as pleasure seldom showers</div> + <div class='line in4'>On mortals here below.”</div> + <div class='line'>“To Lord Clare”—Byron’s <cite>Hours of Idleness</cite>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>In Virginia.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Three Years Previous. The Pain of Battle.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>It was the movement of General George G. +Meade called the Mine Run Expedition, Nov. 26, +1863. On the morning of the 27th the First Mass. +Cavalry under command of General John I. Gregg, +marched to Parker’s Store on the Orange Plank +Road, where it met a column of Meade’s infantry, +the Fifth Corps, under command of General George +Sykes, passed them, and marched ahead of them +on the Gordonsville road, leading the column +through the Wilderness. At New Hope Church +they met the enemy’s cavalry pickets, but the +country was so densely wooded they could only +fight dismounted.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Brevet Col. B. W. Crowninshield in his History +of the First Mass. Cavalry, says:—“As the force +advanced, the ground became rougher and well +wooded at times, with occasional openings. +Charges were made, and prisoners were taken from +what proved to be Walker’s North Carolina Brigade +of Infantry.</p> + +<div id='i_156' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_156.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>Lieutenant C. A. Longfellow of Company A, was +badly wounded, at first supposed mortally....</p> + +<p class='c013'>When the 5th Corps infantry came up and +relieved the cavalry the enemy had been pushed +back nearly to his works on Mine Run.... In the +fight the 1st Mass. Cavalry lost one officer and four +men killed, and two officers and eleven men +wounded.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From the History of the Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Letter of Lieut. Appleton p. 747.</span><br> <span class='sc'>The Crossing of the Rapidan. New Hope Church.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“On the 27th (Nov. 1863.) off at daybreak, +struck a dirt road, which soon led to another plank +road parallel to the first, and also in the direction +of Orange Court House. On, on, we trudged, and +soon we heard heavy cannonading, which every +minute grew nearer, mixed now and then with the +sharp cracks of the carbine. We soon came to the +little village of New Hope Church, where the Corps +rushed on at ‘double quick’ to relieve the shattered +squadrons of Gregg, and a splendid sight it was. +The cavalry formed in squares by the road side, +right glad to be relieved by the ‘Doughboys’ and +our artillery rushing on to the front. Captain +Martin (Capt. A. P. Martin commanding the +Artillery Brigade) soon got the batteries in posish, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>and in fact the only fighting our Corps did was done +by the artillery. I soon heard that Charlie Longfellow +had been wounded, and stole the first minute +I could get to run off to the hospital, New Hope +Church, where I saw the dear boy, lying on the +pulpit, and surrounded by the officers of the regiment. +(First Mass. Cavalry.) He looked and +talked well, but I did not have but a minute to stay +with him, as my biz. then was on the field.... I +went again to the hospital in the evening, but +Charlie had gone, as they had taken off all except +the worst cases. I assure you it was not a pleasant +sight. Charlie and Bowditch (Captain Henry +Pickering Bowditch shot in the right forearm) went +off together. Charlie was wounded by a ball just +under the shoulder blade, injuring the spine, but +missing the vital parts.”</p> + +<hr class='c018'> + +<p class='c013'>Previous to his connection with the First Mass. +Cavalry he joined the First Mass. Battery, Light +Artillery, at the front, as a private, but was not +mustered in, and at the age of 19 was commissioned +in the Cavalry. His record in the Adjutant +General’s office of the State of Massachusetts, is as +follows:—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned +2nd Lieut., Co. G., 1st Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, +March 27, 1863; mustered March 27, 1863, for 3 years. +Commissioned 1st Lieut. to date January 24, 1864, not +mustered; discharged February 15, 1864, as 2nd Lieutenant.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned +1st Lieut. in Co. G, 5th Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, January +7, 1864. He declined the commission.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The Fifth Cavalry was a Regiment composed of +men of African descent.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>In August, 1863, he was Acting Adjutant.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The wound affected him all his life, he was never +in condition to rejoin the army, and it prevented +him from going on the ill fated expedition of +Captain George Washington De Long in the <em>Jeanette</em>, +to the North Pole. He had begged his great +friend James Gordon Bennett to go as a volunteer +on the expedition, but the surgeon who examined +all those who were to take part in it, did not consider +him fit to stand the probable exposure, and +so would not pass him, greatly to his own disappointment +but to the relief of his family and friends. +As he would doubtless have been in the boat with +Captain De Long he was saved the suffering and +terrible death of those brave men.</p> + +<p class='c013'>After much travelling and residence in many +lands, shortly after his return from a trip to Tahiti +with his friend T. Watson Merrill, in the spring of +1892, he had a sudden stroke of paralysis, from +which he never recovered.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Passing the summer with his sister Miss Alice +Longfellow, at the old Nahant Cottage, he returned +with her in the autumn to the historic home at +Cambridge, formerly Washington’s headquarters, +and after living all the winter and appearing somewhat +better, he died April 13, 1893, at the age of +forty-nine. He was born June 9, 1844.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER EIGHTH.<br> <span class='c010'>FRANCE. LAST DAYS OF THE EMPIRE. TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in12'>I</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Friend of the fair old days,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Have you forgotten me?</div> + <div class='line'>Back through the pleasant ways,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Oft in my memory,</div> + <div class='line'>Gladly I turn again.</div> + <div class='line in4'>Hearing the sounds that blew</div> + <div class='line'>Over the meadows then—</div> + <div class='line in4'>Oft at the side of you</div> + <div class='line'>Dreaming old dreams, I gaze</div> + <div class='line in4'>Worshipping all I see—</div> + <div class='line in2'>Friend of the fair old days,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Have you forgotten me?</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in12'>II</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + <div class='line'>Do you remember me?</div> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + <div class='line in4'>Deeming you great and wise—</div> + <div class='line'>Questions I asked you then?</div> + <div class='line in4'>There where the green hills rise</div> + <div class='line'>Often your gaze was cast</div> + <div class='line in4'>Down on me tenderly—</div> + <div class='line'>Friend of the dear old past,</div> + <div class='line in4'>May you remember me?”</div> + <div class='line in20'>—<em>S. E. Kiser.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Guests of France.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I wrote home June 5th, 1867, the year of the +Great Exposition:—“It does not pay just now to +be away from Paris, for it is in a most exceptional +state, filled with Europeans—Kings, Princes, and +all kinds of celebrities. All other places are +deserted and quieter than usual, and moreover +they will all keep for the future, but probably not +for years will Paris see such another sight.</p> + +<div id='i_160' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_160.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>HON. NATHANIEL P. BANKS.<br> <br> REPRESENTATIVE FROM MASSACHUSETTS.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>The last few steamers have brought over crowds +of ‘Yanks’; others have come up from Italy and +Germany, and I find that since the short time ago +that I left here for England, my many friends have +turned up and prices, too, have run up very fast.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The race for the Grand Prix on last Sunday, was +probably the most brilliant assemblage of the sort +the world has ever seen, and the road home from +the tribune itself to the Place de la Concorde, was +a solid mass of vehicles five or six rows in breadth, +and all going in the same direction.</p> + +<p class='c013'>My friend the Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> was there, and +I recognized other Russian friends, but I shall let +you get the accounts from the papers, and not from +me, of all the grand doings of the season. There +is to be held at the race course at Long Champs a +huge review of military.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Thursday. Midnight: I must finish this for +you tonight to dispatch it by tomorrow morning.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Review (Longchamps June 6, 1867, Review +of the French Army.) was superb. It was, perhaps, +the proudest day of Napoleon Third’s career, +having on one side of him, as he reviewed the +troops, the King of Prussia, and on the other the +Emperor of Russia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I was late in driving up, but afterwards had a +fine view of it all at the apartments of Paul Forbes +and his family of New York, on the avenue.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>Returning to Paris after the Review, the carriage +in which the Tsar was seated passed me somewhere +in the Bois de Boulogne, as I too, was returning +from the pageant. I was so full of the delightful +time I had had in Russia, a few months before, that +I took off my hat as we passed and gave him a bow. +My salutation was so very marked that he looked +at me intently, as if trying to make out just who I +was, but I do not suppose he could bring me back +to his recollection, though of course he returned the +salutation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The weather is delightful now, and the days so +long that it is not dark at nine o’clock, and Paris +is one prolonged fête, each day and night more +astonishing than the last.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There is a vague rumor floating about that some +crazy Pole attempted to assassinate the Tsar at +the Review.</p> + +<p class='c013'>June 12, 1867: This marvellous life of Paris +runs along, getting more extraordinary every day!</p> + +<p class='c013'>How well Napoleon <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> has succeeded in his +undertaking. He invites rulers of all descriptions +to come and visit him in his home, to see the Paris +of ’67.</p> + +<p class='c013'>They accept, and he quietly sits twirling his +moustache, surrounded by Tsars, Popes, Queens, +Sultans, Kings, Grand Dukes and Princes! What +a shrewd and wonderful stroke of diplomacy it all +is, thus showing to the world the marvels of his +great capital! Balls, fêtes, races, reviews, come +and go, but how it will all end one cannot say, for +I think the French people will be tired of the +tremendous expense before the summer is over.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Yesterday I went with a party to Fontainebleau, +but it so happened the Imperialist party were all +there the same morning, and the Palace was closed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>for visitors. We breakfasted, and drove through +the forest, expecting to see a <em>chasse</em>, but, shortly +after reaching the “Rendezvous” we found it was +abandoned on account of the heat, and dogs and +huntsmen all marched home.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It is almost too warm for theatres now, but +tonight I have been to see a piece called <cite>La Dame +aux Camélias</cite>, which was a great success in Paris +ten or fifteen years ago. (Vaudeville Theatre, +Paris, February 2, 1852, Madame Eugénie Doche +was the first Marguerite Gautier.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>July 4. 1867:—Here we have the great day of +American independence, but, owing to the death of +Maximilian, all festivities, both for the Sultan, and +even our own “Fourth of July” celebration, are +postponed. I must say this seems rather unnecessary, +but I am inclined to think that yesterday +morning Napoleon III did not have a very good +appetite for breakfast. (The Emperor Maximilian +was executed in Mexico, where he bravely insisted +upon remaining to meet his fate when the army of +Napoleon III had been withdrawn.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>Paris is one of those places into which you tumble +very easily, and then find it almost impossible to +get out of it. People are packing up now, however, +and the fashionable resort this summer, for Bostonians +especially, seems to be the baths about Salzburg +in the Tyrol.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Funny thing life is here in Paris. You wake up in +the morning without any idea what you will do +during the day. Invitations come, one thing +succeeds another, and the hours slip along.</p> + +<p class='c013'>July 10, 1867: The death of Maximilian has +caused a very deep feeling in Europe, and most of +the festivities arranged for the Sultan have been +<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>countermanded. This makes it rather quieter in +Paris now than was expected.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I went out yesterday to Saint Cloud, and saw +some rowing regattas between boats of various +nationalities, but there were few persons present, +and not much excitement.”</p> + +<hr class='c018'> + +<p class='c013'>The year of the great Exposition of 1867, may +be regarded as the apogee of the Second Empire, +and soon after it ominous rumblings were heard in +the political clouds. The disastrous and humiliating +expedition to Mexico doubtless contributed to +the beginning of the downfall, and even the sight +of Napoleon at the Longchamps Review in 1867, +with the Emperor of Russia and the King of +Prussia on either side, could not bolster up popular +opinion as to the prestige of French military glory.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I never considered that the people of France +endorsed the expedition to Mexico, or believed in +it. No, it was part of the personal ambition of +Napoleon to take advantage of our troubles, and +try to foist an empire upon one of the nations of the +Western hemisphere, where it was not wanted, +would have been out of place, and could not last +long. It was a miserable business from beginning +to end, and did much to weaken the ties of friendship +between France and the United States, as was +shown many years later by the opposition of our +government and people to the peaceful work of Mr. +de Lesseps in his herculean efforts in behalf of the +Panama Canal.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Napoleon was at the height of his tinsel glory in +1867, but the triumph of the Empress Eugénie was +reached in 1869, at the fêtes in Egypt attending the +opening of the Suez Canal, certainly in her case a +well-merited one, her efforts as a relative of de +<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>Lesseps having contributed so much to the success +of that great enterprise. One would hardly have +imagined then, while looking upon her in all her +grace and loveliness, in every way the queen of the +festivities, that the over-throwing of the Empire +was so soon to follow.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The celebration of our “Fourth of July” at the +Pré Catalan in the Bois de Boulogne was omitted +in 1867, as noted, and I have heard that this was +done at the especial request of the French government, +and I suppose it was made in such a way that +it would not have been easy or in good taste to +refuse. All the same I could not understand what +our celebration had to do with the death of Maximilian, +and I regretted extremely that our representative +succumbed to the pressure brought to +bear. I never learned whether it was the result of +orders from Washington, or if our Minister took the +responsibility, for such an act does not seem to +harmonize with the character of General John A. +Dix, though he was the most courteous of gentlemen.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Paris in 1869.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>On the 21st of May, 1869, I wrote my sister—“Paris +is now filled with American diplomats, +Washburn, Jay, Burlingame, Marsh, etc., most of +whom I have seen. Burlingame dined with me ten +days ago, and expatiated on the charms of everything +in California.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Among my guests at my apartment just off the +Boulevard, were members of congress, prominent +men of business and science, diplomatic representatives, +and others, meeting there as they turned up +in Paris on their European trips for relaxation. +They were generally Americans, as my ambitions +<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>were all identified with my native country, but I +would often have a sprinkling of Frenchmen or +English to give variety and there, in the neutral +territory of my smoking-room, all restraint thrown +aside, men who at home belonged to political +parties sometimes in bitter opposition, would meet +and express their opinions in a way that would have +been impossible in New York or Washington. +Sparks of wit would fly off from the fast working +grindstone of this unpretentious salon, and there +was plenty of valuable information to be picked up +by any one who would take the trouble to go there +with his eyes and ears open.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Burlingame and China.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>At a farewell banquet given to Major General +John A. Dix, U. S. Minister to France, at the Grand +Hotel, June 1st, 1869, by the American residents +at Paris, the Hon. Anson Burlingame was present +and was introduced by the presiding officer Hon. +Elliot C. Cowdin, as one who “pleaded for the +rights of four millions of slaves until their last fetter +fell. He now in loftier tones pleads before the +nations the cause of four hundred millions of men.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1867, Prince Kung, regent of the Empire of +China, offered to appoint Burlingame, who was +United States Minister to China appointed by +President Lincoln, special envoy to the United +States and the great European powers, for the +purpose of framing treaties of amity with these +nations, an honor never before conferred upon a +foreigner.</p> + +<p class='c013'>He resigned as U. S. Minister to accept this mission +around the world, and arrived at the United +States the head of a numerous party, in March, +1868.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>In the course of his remarks the following year +at the banquet to General Dix, he said:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“While we do not interfere in other people’s +affairs, nor permit them to interfere in ours, we +cannot forget that we are a great nation, that we +cannot abdicate our responsibilities, that we must +take our part in the peaceful police of the sea and +the land, and in the maintenance of those principles +of international law, which recognize the equality +of nations as we recognize the equality of men. +That, as it is the highest duty of every society to +protect the weak from the strong, so the weak +nations and struggling peoples should find ample +protection in that sense of justice of the strong +nations which they cannot lose and prosper.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame visited <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg the last +of the European capitals, and died there at forty-eight +years of age, on Washington’s birthday, 1870, +about a year after the original departure from +China. I first met him when he had the Chinese +Embassy in London, then frequently in Paris, and +the last time in Stockholm before we left.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Union Pacific Railroad.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In the speech of Ex-Governor Alexander H. +Bullock at this banquet, he said with reference to +the mission of Burlingame, and the Union Pacific +Railroad just completed:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“The great work is done, and hereafter the states +are a unit in commerce as in government. Before +my friend Mr. Burlingame has half completed his +cosmopolitan mission, the freight trains have been +made up at San Francisco, laden with the product +of China, and by the time he shall have unpacked +his trunks at Berlin, he may drink at the breakfast +<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>table his favorite tea, which, thanks to the irrepressible +and irresistible Yankees, has been brought +round to him the other way.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Curtin-Drexel Dinner.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>My first thought of seeing <em><span lang="fr">Le Canal de Suez</span></em>, of +going to the opening ceremonies which took place +on the 17th November, 1869, was the result of a +dinner given at the rooms of Bowles Brothers & +Co. early in July of that year.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The dinner was given in honor of Governor +Andrew G. Curtin of Pennsylvania, who had been +appointed U. S. Minister to the Russian court at +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and was then <em><span lang="fr">en route</span></em> to his post, +and to Mr. Anthony J. Drexel of Philadelphia, who +was making his first visit to Paris after the establishment +there of the branch house of Drexel, +Harjes & Co.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Among the guests present I can now recall the +Hon. Elihu B. Washburn U. S. Minister at Paris, +Hon. Anson Burlingame at the head of the Chinese +Embassy, Major General the Hon. Nathaniel P. +Banks M. C., Hon. Zachariah Chandler U. S. +Senator, Hon. Fernando Wood M. C., Mr. John C. +Lee, of Lee, Higginson & Co., and Mr. S. Endicott +Peabody afterwards a partner in the house of J. S. +Morgan & Co.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Charles Bowles then and there suggested that +General Banks and I go to the opening of the Suez +Canal. I talked with the General about it and we +agreed to meet in Paris the middle of September, +and start on the trip.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We went first to Hamburg, then to Copenhagen, +where we arrived about the 20th of September, and +met General Waldemar Rudolph Raasloff, Chargé +<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>d’Affaires from Denmark to the United States, 1858 +to 1862, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary +1864 to 1866, and then on to Stockholm, +where we saw a great deal of Mr. Burlingame, who +had just arrived with the Chinese Embassy.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>At Stockholm.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>From a letter written to my sister from Stockholm +I take what follows under date of October 4, +1869:—“You will be, doubtless, somewhat surprised +at seeing from the heading of this, how far I +have managed to get from my beloved Paris without +any previous warning. With General N. P. +Banks M. C. from Massachusetts, I set out on the +trip which he was very desirous of accomplishing, +first through the north countries of Europe, and +then through Russia to Constantinople and the +opening of the Suez Canal.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There is not a man in the United States just now +who is a more valuable companion for such a trip.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We have been passing several days here very +pleasantly though quietly, and tonight after dining +with the U. S. Minister, General C. C. Andrews, we +take the steamer direct for Saint Petersburg, where +I shall have an opportunity of revisiting and seeing +in a more summer like garb the scenes of my former +triumphs.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame happens to be here with all the +Chinese, and they cause an immense sensation in +the city. The square in front of our hotel is continually +crowded with groups of curious ones, trying +to catch a glimpse of the Celestials, as they sit +complacently at their windows and gaze and smile +benignly on the people below.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame, General Banks and I have long +<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>talks, lasting late into the night, about everything, +which generally end in glorifying the grandeur of +the great Republic.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General Banks, Denmark and Sweden.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>There is to be held this year (1904) a Shakesperian + celebration marking the 300th anniversary +of the first printed edition of the tragedy of Hamlet, +and a portrait statue of Shakespere is to be erected +on the road to Kronborg Castle, the foundations of +which are now said to be insecure through the +undermining of the tides. I remember well after +our visit to Hamlet’s castle at Elsinore, and promenade +on the terrace, when we returned to the +hotel, and had dined, and were in adjoining rooms, +before retiring, the General was full of the inspiration +of the scene, and repeated to me many of the +lines of Hamlet appropriate to the place and +occasion. It seemed to me as if he knew the whole +play by heart.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At Stockholm the house he especially wanted to +see was that of Swedenborg,—founder of the +Swedenborg religion,—and we went there one day. +It was a simple dwelling as I now recall it after +these many years. We made an excursion, also, +to the town of Upsala, famous for its university.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The American Minister Gen. Christopher Columbus +Andrews, of Minnesota, who had but recently +been appointed, gave us a dinner, and all in his +power to make our sojourn agreeable and instructive.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Review of the Army.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>We saw a review of the army by King Oscar, and +were told afterwards how much he regretted he had +<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>not known we were there, so that he could have +invited us to join his staff, and take part in it.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Raasloff, Banks and the Islands.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In Copenhagen at the Raasloff lunch of perhaps +20, after he was elected deputy, General Banks +made at table one of his effective impromptu short +speeches. General Raasloff was the only candidate, +and thus his election was not difficult, but +he never recovered from the disappointment of +our government not taking the island of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +Thomas, when he supposed it was all settled +between the United States and Denmark. Banks +was elected member of congress from Massachusetts +in 1853, and 1855, Governor of the state from +1858 to 1861, elected member of congress again, +with the exception of the election of 1872, from +1865 to 1877. In 1888, he was again elected, and +served until 1890. He was chairman of the committee +on foreign affairs of the U. S. House of +Representatives in 1865 and later, including the +years General Raasloff was minister from Denmark +to the United States. I had heard him often speak +of the purchase of Saint Thomas, and the disappointment +of his friend General Raasloff at its nonaccomplishment.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In his judgment we ought to own or control all +the islands of the West Indies, showing the danger +to us, as proved by the action of England during +our civil war, of their being in the possession of +governments that might be hostile. The blockade +runners were almost entirely English ships, making +money out of our troubles by supplying the Confederates +with articles they needed, and receiving +principally cotton in return, which was then selling +at a tremendous price.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>If the advice of Banks had been followed, the +War with Spain in 1898, which began by the desire +to assist Cuba in gaining its independence, could +not have occurred. He was one of the strongest +advocates of the purchase of Alaska.</p> + +<p class='c013'>During my travels with General Banks, then 53 +years of age, from the middle of September, 1869, +to the early part of December, I always found him +a very abstemious man. I do not remember that +he ever took a glass of spirits; I mean by this what +are called hard liquors. At dinner he would take +a little wine, and when I asked him what he preferred +he would say, “Well, you know, I consider +champagne the most agreeable,” and so once or +twice a week we would have a bottle. Occasionally, +at night, he would indulge in a glass of beer.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Nor did he smoke at all. He would say to me, +“I cannot smoke.” This reminds me that he +never clipped expressions of the kind, i. e. he always +said “I do not,” “I will not,” “I shall not,” +instead of “I can’t,” “I don’t,” etc. It was a +good lesson for me which I have tried to follow, +for the abbreviations always seem to me cheap +and undignified, especially when used in a speech +or in writing. Of course in ordinary conversation +it may be to a certain extent different, but, all the +same, I prefer the two words to the shortening +them into one.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Crossing the Gulf of Finland, we stopped at +several small towns on the way to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, +where our new minister, Ex-Governor Curtin and +the Secretary of Legation Mr. Titian J. Coffey of +Pennsylvania, both of whom had been but a short +time in the country, treated us most hospitably.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Presentations.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>Writing from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg on this date I said: +“The 27th of October will be remembered by +Americans as a day of great interest.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>Today at 2 o’clock at the Winter Palace, our new +minister Ex-Governor A. G. Curtin presented his +credentials and was formally received by the +Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></p> + +<p class='c013'>Our minister’s speech and the reply by the Tsar, +were short but to the point, and replete with sentiments +of increasing friendship between the two +great continental nations of the world, and the +happy remarks about President Grant and the +Emperor Alexander will be appreciated by the +people of both countries. The secretary Mr. +Titian J. Coffey, was presented at the same time, +and the United States legation at Russia can well +be proud of its representatives.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Another event of the day was the review of +military forces stationed in and about the city, to +the number of thirty-five thousand, which took +place on the Champ de Mars. Two great reviews +are held yearly in Saint Petersburg, one in the early +spring and the other in January. The review of +today was especially ordered by the Emperor, out +of regular course, and whether or not it has any +political significance was subject of speculation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The display was, as such things always are here, +very fine, the beauty and strength of the Russian +horses being especially observed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Besides General Banks there was present General +Hiram Berdan, who has been for some time in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>Russia, and we understand that he has large contracts +from the Russian government for supplying +them with his improved musket and cartridges.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Agricultural Exhibition.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In this month (October) there has been a very +interesting exhibition of the different herds of +cattle raised in the Russian Empire. This is the +first exhibition of the kind ever held in the city, +and it has been an object of great interest. The +prizes were awarded yesterday by the Grand Duke +Nicholas, and today the Emperor visited it in +person. The ladies of the Court have been much +interested in its success, and many of the farms in +the neighborhood of the city where the finest stock +is raised, are owned by members of the Imperial +family. Its object is to improve the breed of all +kinds of stock, and to assist as much as possible +the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to +Animals, especially in everything that relates to +preparing animal food for the market.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review of the Troops.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I went to the Review with General Banks as if +attached to his staff. We were both in uniform, +he as a major general of United States Volunteers, +and I as a captain of Light Artillery, in accordance +with an Act of Congress which allows all honorably +discharged officers of the Union army to appear in +their highest brevet rank on any and all occasions +during life when a uniform is the appropriate dress.</p> + +<p class='c013'>As a general rule the other armies of Europe +follow the customs of the great nations, and when +the head of the government ordinarily wears a +uniform of course the officers follow the example, +making it their habitual dress. The Russian +<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>government dresses its men in the best of all colors, +gray, and besides the trimness and inconspicuousness +of the uniform itself they have many simple +appliances, as for instance, the hood or basilisk, for +the comfort of the soldier, for adopting which the +rigorous climate of the country has doubtless contributed +a great deal. The result is, that for +thorough winter work I doubt if there is any soldier +in Europe as well prepared as the Russians.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Horses were there ready for us, and we rode along +the lines and between the squares, on the staff of +the Emperor himself. It was a fine sight and I +was specially struck with the enthusiasm of the +troops for their chief the Tsar. In no country is +this carried to such a pitch as in Russia. The +shouts of the men as he approaches are astonishing +in their half-barbaric ecstasy, platoon after platoon +taking up the cry in turn. The shouts of these +strange looking Russians I thought at the time +implied a power and assurance of fighting well for +their country and the Tsar, whenever the time +should come, different from the <em>élan</em> of the French, +the dogged determinedness of the English, or the +severe discipline of the Prussians. Subsequent +events proved that I was not wrong in my deductions.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The army was under the command of the Tsar’s +brother, the Grand Duke Nicholas, who turned it +over to its real head as he came down at the last +moment in his open drosky, and mounted his horse +which was in readiness for him there.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In connection with this review I recollect an +amusing incident. It was in the month of October, +and the weather was consequently becoming rather +cold, and so a day or two before a general order was +issued for the troops to appear in their overcoats. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>This made it a matter of etiquette for us, also, to +wear some kind of overcoat, and as we neither of +us had one of a military style, we went with our +good-natured consul George Pomutz to a tailor, +where we each ordered a little dark blue cape +which must be made in a day’s time, and we +thought would serve our purpose. They did do +very well, and I have often used mine since in the +militia, and once lent it to a lady to wear going to +a dinner party, fastened with a bright brass button.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General Hiram Berdan.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>General Berdan, of rifle renown, happened then +to be in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg with one of his famous guns +he was offering for the consideration of the Russian +government, and he, too, was at the Review.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Lost Sword.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Fortunately I did not have with me my precious +army sword, but one I had bought at Paris just +before starting, an historic sword as the proprietor +of the little shop in the Rue <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Honoré,—on the +right from the Rue Castiglione, as you go towards +the Rue Royale,—where I got it, told me that it +had belonged to one of the suite of Napoleon at +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Helena, and that one of the family had brought +it back.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Just before General Banks and I left Saint +Petersburg for Moscow, we heard that the railroad +bridge over one of the great rivers had been burned. +This was indeed the case as we found on arriving +there shortly after dark, and we had to pass the +night on the train where we were, and traverse the +stream the next day in boats, rafts, or any way we +could.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>As we had reached the southern side, and were +stepping on to the bank from the boat, the sword +slipped out of my bundle of rugs, and fell into the +river, where I have no doubt it has remained to +the present time. Morijiks tried to find it for me, +but the water was very deep, the current swift, and +it could not be recovered. I doubt if it was ever +known how, or by whom and for just what purpose +the bridge was fired, for it was generally believed +to have been the work of an incendiary.</p> + +<p class='c013'>A short time before, the railroad had been sold +by the Winans people of Baltimore, who had built +and largely owned it, for 7,000,000 roubles cash to +the Court clique, headed by Count Strogonoff, who, +by the way, came down on the same train with us +to see what was the matter.</p> + +<p class='c013'>All the old employés were discharged for some +reason or other, and their places filled by Poles +taken from the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg and Warsaw railroad, +and so very likely one, or several, of the men +turned off, devised and carried out this plan of +revenge.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I remember that Governor Curtin and the Secretary +Mr. Coffey, whom we had often seen during +our stay in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, came to see us off at the +station. We experienced great difficulty in getting +any kind of information as to the situation, but we +were determined to start and run the chance, as we +had but little time to catch our boat at Odessa. +As it was, we lost about twenty-four hours, reaching +Moscow just one day later than we should.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was during our sojourn at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg that +I received, thanks to Mr. Charles Bowles then in +America, an invitation from the Board of Trade of +my native city of Boston, of which the Hon. +Alexander H. Rice was then president, to be its +<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>delegate for the opening ceremonies of the Suez +Canal, and to write a report thereon. I consider +this as the beginning of my service in the interest +of a canal across the American Isthmus, for instead +of going to Egypt merely as a tourist and spectator, +I had some work to do by which my attention was +specially called to the subject of ship canals. +Certain it is that since that time with many other +occupations it has constantly been before my mind +and is so now.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Individual Enterprise.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>To beguile the time on board ship I jotted down +the following notes, Odessa, Nov. 7, 1869:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“The idea strikes me forcibly here—that of +individual enterprise, or rather great results accomplished +by individuals—because the prosperity +of this city is mainly due to the unaided efforts of +two persons. First the Duke de Richelieu, a +French nobleman who may be regarded as its +founder, and, secondly, Prince Woronzoff, for +many years the Russian governor of the province.</p> + +<p class='c013'>How much any one man can accomplish if he +will devote himself entirely to the attempt, and +what a field there is today for such ambition in the +United States of America! We must have the +Darien Canal cut, we must have our commerce +stimulated by a changed tariff; we must have +cheaper internal transportation for our products, +and then there will be little talk about the national +debt. The Secretary of the Treasury will not have +to sell gold in Wall street.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>On the Way to Suez.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Passing in our journey from the cold autumn +weather of Russia, partly by rail and partly by +boat and across the Mediterranean, we reached the +glorious sun of Constantinople and the tropical +warmth of Egypt.</p> + +<div id='i_179' class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_179.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>FERDINAND DE LESSEPS, 1869.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>At Odessa we joined an excursion party in one +of the boats of the Russian Navigation Company +the “General Kotzebue,” to Constantinople, Rhodes, +Port Said, Ismailia, Suez, passing through the +canal, Cairo by rail, Alexandria, and then by +Brindisi and the Mount Cenis Tunnel back to Paris +in December.</p> + +<p class='c013'>General Banks ought to have been invited to +represent the government of the nation, he was +then member of congress and chairman of the +committee on foreign affairs in the house of representatives, +but he was not appointed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was on this occasion that I made the acquaintance +of Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, the hero of the +canal, and my journey with General Banks deserves +more than a passing notice, for his varied experience +of the past, and his penetrating observation of the +present, had given him facilities for seeing and +judging things in a manner which could not fail +to be instructive. The strong American stamp +of his character, while exciting my youthful enthusiasm +did not bias him in his judgment of European +or Oriental customs or forms of government. +From his mind wonderful photographs were taken +as we travelled together from the North to the +South, and his quiet and dignified encouragement +of my aspirations so naturally given in the offhand +intimacy of a journey, with the mixture of petty +pleasures and annoyances, were a stimulus which +came very opportune to me and which I was not +likely to forget.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Accidentally, too, at different stages of our +<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>wanderings, we were thrown in with several other +marked and representative types of Americans; +among them at Stockholm the noble Burlingame +since then taken away in the midst of his grand +work of Chinese regeneration; Governor Curtin the +war governor of Pennsylvania, the genial, kindly, +bright, wiry type of American politician, and the +well-known American dentist of Paris, Dr. Thomas +W. Evans, whose intimacy with the French +Emperor Napoleon III, and knowledge of the inner +history of the past twenty years in Paris, made +him an agreeable and valued companion.</p> + +<p class='c013'>With the healthy glow of travel, at the most +delightful season of the year, and the excitement +of military reviews and gala fêtes at the different +capitals visited, all ending with the gorgeous +Aladdin-like enchantments of the week in Egypt, +when Europe, Asia, Africa, aye and America, came +at the invitation of the Khedive, and led by the +graceful Empress Eugénie, offered their congratulations +at the completion of that international +work of peace, the Suez Canal,—and the opportunity +of seeing these sights in the presence of +many of the most distinguished personages alive, +and of discussing them with advanced minds amid +the surroundings of attractive places,—what than +this could be a better phase of education?</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Constantinople.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>On arriving at Constantinople the captain of +the steamer gave all the passengers a couple of +days to spend in seeing the wonders of this extraordinary +city before continuing our journey.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We went to the best hotel, and, after breakfasting, +whom should we meet in the hall but my old +<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>Harvard classmate Jeremiah Curtin vice consul +at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Curtin is the translator of +“Quo Vadis” by the Polish author Henryk Sienkiewicz, +published by Little, Brown & Co. of +Boston,—John Murray Brown our classmate +being a member of the firm,—and dedicated to +another member of our class Auguste Comte of San +Francisco.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I had seen Curtin in Moscow, when I was there +in January, 1867. General Banks had known him +in Washington, Curtin’s headquarters when not on +his journeys of investigation, and he was very glad +to meet us both. What he was doing in Turkey +we could not quite make out, but I think in the +interest of Russia he was quietly watching the +movements of the Slavonic elements there, and +through the Danubian principalities. Besides this +he was writing letters for one of the great New +York papers. Mr. Curtin told us that for the +morning he met us he was to have by appointment +an interview with the Patriarch of Constantinople +the head of the Greek Church there, and invited +us to accompany him, and we were only too glad +to thus have an opportunity for seeing this distinguished +personage.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Metropolitan of Moscow and the Patriarch +of Constantinople are two of the heads of the Greek +Church. We went to see the Patriarch simply as +the head of the Turkish branch of the Church.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We started from the hotel on horseback, and, +winding down some narrow streets to the water, +crossed it at the Golden Horn, and were soon in +the old part of the city on the other side, threading +our way to where the Patriarch lived, amidst the +ancient houses and quaint shops which were +swarming with inhabitants, until we arrived at the +door.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>We were taken up into quite a large room with +divans all around it, and ushered into the presence +of the Patriarch, who sat tranquilly in one corner.</p> + +<p class='c013'>He was an aged, fine looking gentleman, with +long, flowing locks and beard, and received us most +graciously.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We talked, through an interpreter, on various +matters, and, after partaking of sweetmeats and +coffee, retired very much gratified with the interview.</p> + +<p class='c013'>His dress, as also that of the interpreter, was +curious; being a combination of Oriental robes and +church trappings like all the religious officers of the +Greek Church. It is striking and effective.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Arrival at Port Said.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>It was on November 15th a little before sundown +that our vessel the “General Kotzebue” +entered the harbor of Port Said, with a very agreeable +company of Russians, and came to anchor in +its proper place about seven o’clock.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We took our position on the right in entering. +The Emperor of Austria had entered just before +us. Salutes were fired.</p> + +<p class='c013'>We went on shore to see the U. S. Consul, but he +was not at home. Left cards on Mr. de Lesseps +and strolled about the town. Left cards on the +Vice Roi in his yacht, and saw Nuba Pacha. Met +Dr. Evans and Dr. Edward A. Crane,—a well +known member of the American colony in Paris +and for many years editor of <cite>The American Register</cite> +of that city owned by Dr. Evans,—on the street +at Port Said. Later we go to the reception in the +yacht of the Vice Roi or Khedive, a splendid boat, +and I was there presented to the enterprising ruler +<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>of Egypt, and first met Mr. de Lesseps himself, who +from that time has been one of my favorite heroes, +and who I am free to admit I consider the most +remarkable man of our day.</p> + +<p class='c013'>As I now look back through many years to that +week of fêtes in the land of the Pharaohs, I have +a kaleidoscopic vision of enchantment worthy of +the Arabian Nights, and perceive through the +charm and mystery of the Orient, a work of practical +modern progress which it softens and adorns.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Return to Paris.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I was with General Banks in Paris after our +return from Egypt about ten days in December, +1869, when he and I, with Paul Forbes, Anthoine +de Gogorza, Alexandre Boyer, two Erlangers, +Emile and Louis Count Excelmans, Dr. Evans, +General Charles B. Norton, and others, were +organizing the Darien Canal Company. Then he +went to Washington for the session of congress, +and I remained in Paris.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER NINTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> AND EMANCIPATION.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Though watery deserts hold apart</div> + <div class='line in2'>The worlds of East and West,</div> + <div class='line'>Still beats the self-same human heart</div> + <div class='line in2'>In each proud nation’s breast.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Our floating turret tempts the main</div> + <div class='line in2'>And dares the howling blast,</div> + <div class='line'>To clasp more close the golden chain</div> + <div class='line in2'>That long has bound them fast.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>In vain the gales of ocean sweep,</div> + <div class='line in2'>In vain the billows roar,</div> + <div class='line'>That chain the wild and stormy steep</div> + <div class='line in2'>Of storied Elsinore.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>She comes! She comes! Her banner dips</div> + <div class='line in2'>In Neva’s flashing tide,</div> + <div class='line'>With greetings on her cannon’s lips</div> + <div class='line in2'>The storm-god’s iron bride.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>No prairies heaped their garnered store</div> + <div class='line in2'>To fill her sunless hold.</div> + <div class='line'>Not rich Nevada’s gleaming ore</div> + <div class='line in2'>Its hidden caves enfold.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>But lightly as the sea bird swings</div> + <div class='line in2'>She floats the depth above;</div> + <div class='line'>A breath of flame to lend her wings—</div> + <div class='line in2'>Her freight, a people’s love.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>When darkness hid the stormy skies</div> + <div class='line in2'>In war’s long winter night,</div> + <div class='line'>One ray still cheered our straining eyes,</div> + <div class='line in2'>The far off northern light.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>And now the friendly rays return</div> + <div class='line in2'>From lights that glow afar,</div> + <div class='line'>Those clustered lamps of heaven that burn</div> + <div class='line in2'>Around the western star.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A nation’s love in tears and smiles</div> + <div class='line in2'>We bear across the sea:</div> + <div class='line'>O! Neva of the banded isles,</div> + <div class='line in2'>We moor our hearts to thee.”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>—<cite>Oliver Wendell Holmes on Fox’s Mission to Russia</cite>, 1866.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div id='i_184' class='c002 figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_184.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, 1866</p> +</div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Territory of Russia.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Forty-two years have passed since in Novgorod, +the oldest town, Russia celebrated the one thousandth +anniversary of its birth, and erected a monument +consisting of an enormous globe, in the midst +of emblematic and historical figures. The original +Russia was a republic. It occupied a small district +near the sources of the Dneiper and Western +Dvina, and the site of the future city of Novgorod. +Its name was derived from Rūs the patronymic of +three brothers of a Variag tribe belonging to the +settlement. The oldest brother was called Rurik.</p> + +<p class='c013'>More than six hundred years had passed, when in +the South, Ivan <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> united the independent principalities +of Moscow, and, in 1505, cast off the Tartar +yoke from these states, whose rulers proclaimed +themselves Tsars, and which were accidentally +discovered in 1553, on the White Sea, by an English +navigator seeking for a short route to China +and India. A commercial acquaintance was +formed which has been intermittently sustained +ever since with England.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1570, was inaugurated the Russian principle +of expansion, by conquering the republic of the +North and annexing it to Moscow. In this process +<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>it is said 60,000 human beings were sacrificed. In +a circular recently issued by the Ministry of Public +Instruction through the curators of the several +educational districts, instructing the directors of +secondary schools to instil into the minds of their +pupils a correct theory of the war of the present +year (1904) emphasis is given to the method of +treatment of the Russian colonies compared with +that received by those pertaining to other countries.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It says:—“The western European states draw +from their colonies an immense income, they live +on them. Russia expends on her periphery a very +considerable sum annually, and receives nothing +from them in return. The Russian periphery +flourishes at the expense of the centre.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>This periphery embraces the colonies of Finland, +the Caucasus, the Central Asiatic possessions and +Manchuria.</p> + +<p class='c013'>During the reign of Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr> the Grand +Duchy of Finland, which stretches from the Gulf +of Finland to the Polar Sea, by the peace of Friederichshamm +was ceded to Russia by Sweden in +1809, and Poland was acquired in 1814. In 1867, +Russia possessed about 106,951 Russian square +miles in Europe and the Caucasus, 248,470 in Asia, +and 24,210 square miles which were ceded to the +United States in that year. Now behold a great +empire with a territory stretching from the Baltic +to the Northern Pacific, and from the Polar Sea to +the frontiers of Turkey, Persia, Afghanistan and +China, crossed by systematically extended lines of +railway, and divided as in the United States of +America, into two portions, whose sources of development, +difference in soil, character of colonization +and products, call for constant reference to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>distinctive titles of “the North” and “the South.” +Moscow, the commercial and industrial capital of +the empire, which has remained the home of passive +conservatism and an asylum for the discontented, +preserves the tombs of the Grand Princes, and the +palace in which the Tsars of Muscovy lived and +other monuments made sacred by tradition, six +centuries of historical associations surrounding the +Kremlin.</p> + +<p class='c013'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, a cosmopolitan city was built on +a European design especially favoring French +models, with the purpose frankly avowed by Peter +the Great of having “a window by which the +Russians might look into civilized Europe.” Like +Odessa it has more of a foreign than a Russian +character, but not more than one tenth of the population +are dwellers in the city, while the agricultural +element is ever expanding.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The System of Government.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The historical development of Russia has been +peculiar, and her social and political organization +differs radically from that of the countries of +western Europe. Its autocracy is founded on the +unbounded hereditary devotion of the people,—peasantry +and nobles alike. The entire government +of the vast empire is administered from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> +Petersburg, on the principle that the people are +incapable of understanding the methods of governing +their local affairs, and from that or from other +reasons, are not to be trusted with them, so that +the local self government is anomalous. Created +by autocratic power through a commission appointed +for the purpose of “conferring more unity +and independence on the local economic administration,” +<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>it has not grown into an institution +from popular wants publicly declared, petitioned +for and advocated, but derives its main motive +power and maintenance from the Central Government +which controls it. Peter the Great (1682–1725) +introduced uniformity and symmetry into the +administration of public affairs. After the death +of Patriarch Adrian of the Greek Church, and an +interregnum of twenty years, Peter supplied his +place by an ecclesiastical council a synod which +still remains the highest ecclesiastical authority, in +which as a contemporary observed “the mainspring +was Peter’s power, and the pendulum his +understanding.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The members of the Synod are appointed by the +Tsar who is accountable to no one. Next to him +in temporal power come the Council of State, the +Committee of Ministers, and the Senate, which is +the sole Court of Revision for the Justice of Peace +Courts and for the Regular Tribunals, and is the +regulator of the whole judicial system of the empire. +Below these are ten ministries, viz., the +Ministries of the Interior, Public Works, State +Demesnes, Finance, Justice, Public Instruction, +War, Navy, Foreign Affairs, and the Imperial +Court.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The territorial administration is divided into +provinces, and each province into districts, all +varying greatly in size. Over each province is a +governor, vice-governor, and council. The governor +is the local representative of the Ministry of +the Interior and each of the other ministries have +their bureaus and representatives in the provinces +drawn chiefly from the nobility and the clergy. +Every province and each of the ten districts into +which it is divided, has an assembly of deputies +<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>and an executive bureau elected by the assembly +from among its members, but the president of the +assembly is a Marshal of the Noblesse, and a limit +is placed to the taxation of trade and industry. +The deputies are elected by the landed proprietors +of the rural communes, composed of peasants, and +the municipal corporations. The members of the +Assembly for the provinces are elected by the District +Assemblies. The system of government for +the towns differs essentially from that of the country, +the towns receiving the advantage of the development +of trade and industry, the establishment of +schools, etc. They are of three kinds, “Government +towns,” “District towns,” and supernumerary, +each divided into merchants, nondescript, +and artisans, the artisans being partly made up +from the population of the agricultural districts. +The towns have a mayor and council.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Serfs.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Moscow has been described as the centre from +which serfage radiated, decreasing toward the +north, east, and south.</p> + +<p class='c013'>According to the documents of the several periods +and the statements of travellers, the rural population +of Russia was composed originally of three +classes, viz., slaves who were made so by various +causes—some prisoners of war, others freemen who +had sold themselves as slaves, others insolvent debtors +and convicts. One grade higher were the free +farm hands who wandered from place to place, +wherever they could find work, and then the peasants +or small farmers, a distinct class by themselves, +who were highest in the social scale, and +who were possessors of land and of their personal +<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>liberty. But in the eighteenth century these distinctions +gradually became obliterated on account +of the disproportion between the small number of +laborers and the large amount of irreclaimable +land, systematized immigration being impossible, +and all the classes were rolled into one under the +name of “serfs,” who were owned by the great +landed proprietors or by the state, and being held +as property were bought and sold in families and +singly, and were deprived of legal protection by +the Government according to the ukazes of October +13, 1675, and June 25, 1682, which sanctioned the +practice of selling peasants and the exaction of +the payment to the Government of dues on the +sales of slaves. Free peasants were often kidnapped +from weaker by more powerful proprietors +and made serfs, while the same class although +nominally free were so valuable to those who possessed +their services that they were not allowed to +leave their borders, so by this means, and often +by reason of debts contracted to the proprietor +a large number became practically serfs before +serfage was established by law, <em>i.e.</em> before the +Tsars discharged their obligations to the nobles by +bestowing upon them a certain amount of land +with a certain number of laborers attached, thus +legalizing serfage and the return of fugitive slaves. +A small proportion of the nobles who lived on their +estates held the peasants as slaves.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Under Peter the Great (1682–1725) and his +immediate successor every man was compelled to +serve the state, and every proprietor paid the poll +tax of his serfs, who were thus reckoned as taxable +property, and every unattached laborer was +arrested as a vagrant. In 1766, by imperial +ukaze, the proprietors or masters had a right to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>transport unruly serfs to Siberia for life without +trial. In 1767 and 1781, it was ordered that those +who entered complaints against their masters, +should be punished with the knout or sent to the +mines, or, what they feared most, made to join the +Army as recruits. In extreme cases of the cruelty +of proprietors, the authorities interfered by direction +of the Tsar, who happened to be informed of it. +In 1792, the serfs were bought and sold, and given +away as part of the masters’ working capital, in +large and small numbers, with and without the +land, but they were not allowed to be sold by +auction, nor to be offered for sale at the time of +the conscriptions. From 1792 to 1861, the estimate +of a noble’s fortune was based on the number +of serfs he owned.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Emperor Paul toward the close of the 18th +century (1796–1801) desiring to limit the authority +of the proprietors, issued an ukaze that the serfs +should not be forced to work for their masters more +than three days in the week, but many paid no +attention to it, and the serfs still had no legal standing +in court in order to make a complaint. There +were indeed enlightened, humane proprietors who +protected those for whom they were responsible +from outside interference, and under whose management +the life of the serf was much easier than +that of agricultural laborers in some countries who +are free, but serfage generally, was the reverse of +this type. The worst suffering was from the +hands of speculators who bought up the land in +order to make money in the shortest possible time, +and parted with the land and the families on it +indiscriminately.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Even among uncivilized tribes the Russian peasant +is good natured, easily conciliated, and patient +<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>under extreme hardship. He readily adapts himself +to circumstances.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the ordinary relations which existed between +the serf and the proprietor the manor land and +the communal land were kept separate. From +the laborers on the rural commune land or village +system,—the rural commune contains five-sixths +of the population,—where a share of land was +distributed to each serf, labor dues, a certain number +of days’ labor per week, were exacted, also, +dues consisting of the products of the farm and +the spinning wheel, in the case of the absence of +the serfs who were at work in the cities or larger +towns but retaining, whether they desired it or +not, their membership in the commune. A large +proportion of the serfs could read and write and +were enterprising, self-reliant, and independent.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Emancipation of the Serfs.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The Russian proverb, “A story is soon told but +a thing is not soon done,” may be consistently +applied to their great reform, one of the most +interesting events of modern history,—the Emancipation +of the Serfs. An effort was made for +freedom in 1762, by an insurrection led by a Cossack +with a scheme for creating a peasant empire, +but he soon met with defeat and his plan failed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1801, Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr> attempted to ameliorate +the condition of the serfs, and entertained +several projects for a general emancipation, and +Nicholas encouraged the consideration of the question +by permitting six committees to be formed +for the purpose. The result was that some thousands +of serfs were emancipated, the custom of +giving grants of land with peasants was abolished, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>a number of the worst masters were removed +from their estates, and some, convicted of murder, +were sent to Siberia. Yet, when a general emancipation +was really inaugurated, the leading +organs of the press acknowledged indebtedness +to the Crimean War for opening the eyes +of the country to the dark side of their political +and social organization. It produced an intellectual +movement and a moral revival which led +to gigantic results. Their foes in the Crimea, said +a Russian writer of the time, whose manuscript +was widely circulated but never printed, were +“British statesmen,” “the crowned conspirator of +France,” “treacherous Austria,” and “Western +Europe generally.” Militia regiments were everywhere +raised throughout the country, and many +landed proprietors spent large sums in equipping +volunteer corps, but unscrupulous members of the +commissary department enriched themselves at the +expense of these patriotic efforts, and the deficiency +of the country in regard to the resources necessary +for a prolonged conflict, were soon manifest. “Another +year of war,” wrote an eye witness in 1855, +“and the whole of Southern Russia will be ruined.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>In this conflict it was the aim of the Tsar Nicholas +to realize the grand idea of Catherine <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, consort +of Peter <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> who succeeded to his throne, of +driving the Turks out of Europe, but the Allies +were victorious, and even the despised Turks +made a successful stand on the line of the Danube, +and when he, the “Iron Tsar,” the sworn enemy +of liberalism, died in a soldier’s humble quarters +in the Crimea, the system he created,—which +through the sacrifice of the intelligence of the +people to the increase of military power proved +the chief cause it was claimed of the national disasters,—died +<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>with him, and as soon as peace had +been concluded Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> accepting the responsibility +of the dying words of Nicholas, “my successor +may do as he pleases, but I cannot change,” +began a reign by which the public administration +of affairs was to be improved, in the words of his +manifesto “by the combined efforts of the Government +and the people,” not secretly by the +Administration as had been the custom in making +slight changes.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In March, 1856, soon after the close of the +Crimean War Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> addressed to the +Marshals of the Noblesse of Moscow the following +words:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“For the removal of certain unfounded reports +I consider it necessary to declare to you that I +have not at present the intention of annihilating +serfage, but, certainly, as you yourselves know, +the existing manner of possessing serfs cannot +remain unchanged. It is better to abolish serfage +from above, than to await the time when it will +begin to abolish itself from below. I request you, +gentlemen, to consider how this can be put into +execution, and to submit my words to the noblesse +for their consideration.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>These enunciations were received with indifference, +and further action was indefinitely postponed, +to the great disappointment of the Tsar, who at +once instituted a committee called “Chief Committee +of Peasant Affairs,” composed of high +officers of the state, and great land owners, among +them the Grand Duke Constantine, who should +privately work for these ends, and who would +make a study of the subject for six months, and +on the assumption that the Lithuanian provinces +where the serfs were in a miserable condition +<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>desired it, “The Rescript of Nazimof” was prepared, +empowering the proprietors to form committees +for the study of this project with a view +to definite results in effecting the gradual abolition +of serfage, and four days later a circular was sent +by direction of the Tsar, to the Governors and +Marshals of Noblesse all over Russia, informing +them of the action relative to the Lithuanian Provinces, +and a copy of the rescript was furnished +them in case they were disposed to follow suit. +This circular produced an immense sensation. Its +meaning was unmistakable, and convincing to +loyal subjects of the Tsar, for a few weeks later he +made public announcement of his wish that, with +the help of God, and the co-operation of the +Noblesse, the great work would be accomplished. +The public press most enthusiastically sustained +this liberal movement for the amelioration of the +condition of so large a proportion of the population +and welcomed the dawn of a glorious epoch +for the nation in which this obstacle to moral +progress, a relic of barbarism, should be removed, +and Russia be placed on equality with the nations +of the West, and with these advocates were joined +a majority of the noblesse, among whom were +numerous educated young enthusiasts, while some +still clung to serfage as an indispensable source +of revenue not to be obtained except under the +rigid rule of the master, and a part of the land +was to be let go to the peasants. These considerations +formed an adverse current which was felt +throughout the country, but no open opposition +to the will of the Tsar was allowed to manifest +itself, because of its utter futility. Still, when in +1857, it became evident that the emancipation of +the serfs was really at hand the prospect raised +<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>terrible forebodings in the minds of masters, stewards, +and employers of serfs. By law, it appeared +that the peasants would receive the land which +they occupied on sufferance, comprising half of +the entire arable land of some estates, but no pasturage, +and it was feared that the emancipated +peasants would be content to live by the cultivation +of their own land, and would not consent on +any terms to work for their former masters.</p> + +<p class='c013'>During the year 1858, committees were formed +for the purposes of emancipation in every province +where serfage existed, the projects which they proposed +being always subject to revision and approval +or rejection by the Government. The fundamental +principles of the movement were intended +to accomplish the work of emancipation by allowing +the serfs to remain for a time on the land subject +to the authority of the proprietors, and during +this time they should become possessors, by many +payments or by labor, of their houses and gardens, +and have the temporary use of a certain quantity +of land sufficient for their own support, and their +taxes to the proprietors and the State. The limit +of this transition period does not seem to have +been prescribed. The next move was the appointment +of an “Elaboration Commission,” composed +of officials and landed proprietors named by the +Tsar, which formulated a new plan, approved by +the Tsar, in which the idea of gradual emancipation +was eliminated, and its place was supplied by +a general law for the complete abolition of the +authority of the proprietor over the serf. Thus +the serfs were to be transformed into small proprietors +of a commune or village, possessing a +house and garden and a section of communal land. +The serf was to be declared personally free, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>a price was to be fixed by Government for the +rent of the land. As to the amount, that was +limited to the land actually enjoyed by the peasants. +Before the project became a law, deputies +from the Provincial Committees were summoned +to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg for consultation in matters of +detail before the commission, but this was a mere +formality and added nothing to the influence of +the Provincial Committees, or to future results. +The autocratic power remained supreme. In the +opinion of the Tsar, “The autocratic power created +serfage, and the autocratic power ought to abolish +it.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>In 1861, as the time drew nearer there was great +excitement all over Russia. An actor in one of the +<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg theatres shouted from the stage,—“Let +us proclaim throughout all Russia that the +time has come for tearing up evil by the roots!” +And the audience responded with frantic demonstrations +of enthusiasm. Speech was free, open, +and unrestrained by police or press censors, and +public attention was absorbed by the great practical +issues of the day. The Crimean war had shown +the necessity of constructing railroads, improving +roads, and steamboat communication on the rivers, +of developing the natural resources, and had taught +them the lesson that even an efficient army could +not be produced from an ignorant population. +Accordingly in current speech and in the public +press different methods of education were discussed, +and reforms in all the branches of the civil service, +and as a result of all this they expected an increase +of military power and the consequent respect of +Western nations.</p> + +<p class='c013'>For the furtherance of these reforming projects, +for the reason that twenty millions of the people, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>one third of the population, were in a state of +bondage, precedence was given to the question of +the condition of the serfs. There were 100,247 +landed proprietors, and of these more than 41,000 +were possessors of less than twenty-one male serfs. +A proprietor who was owner of 500 serfs was not +considered very rich, and there were only 3,803 +of these. There were a few whose possessions +were enormous. One of the nobles possessed +more than 150,000 male serfs, more than 300,000 +souls; the latter estimate naturally including +females, though the Russians have a popular saying +that “Women have no souls at all, but only +a vapor.” Another noble owned more than half a +million of acres of land, another extensive mines, +but there were few very rich families. By far +the greater part of the territory belonged to the +state, and one-half of the rural population were +state peasants whose condition differed from the +other serfs in that they had more land and more +liberty, and their position was not so precarious.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Agriculture and the industries languished for the +lack of free labor, and upon the nation’s honor was +the stigma of slavery.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The emancipation law which was signed February +19, 1861, Old Style, or March 3d as we reckon time, +liberated twenty millions of serfs. The manifesto +with which the peasantry is said to have been disappointed, +was read in all the churches and contained +these fundamental principles, to wit:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“1. That the serfs should at once receive the +civil rights of the free rural classes, and that the +authority of the proprietors should be replaced by +communal self-government.</p> + +<p class='c013'>2. That the rural communes should as far as +possible retain the land they actually held, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>should in return pay to the proprietor certain +yearly dues in money or labor.</p> + +<p class='c013'>3. That the Government should by means of +credit, assist the communes to redeem these dues, +or, in other words, to purchase the lands ceded to +them in usufruct.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The domestic serfs should continue to serve +their masters two years, and thereafter they should +be completely free, but would have no claim on the +land. The disappointment in the minds of the +peasants was in the disposition of the land. Many +desired that all the land should be given to the +Communes, making the emancipation in accordance +with traditional right and their material advantage, +instead of which they were still to pay dues on land +they believed to be their own by right. The +Noblesse were well pleased with the manifesto.</p> + +<p class='c013'>After a delay of three months, “Arbiters of the +Peace” were appointed, to regulate the future relations +between the proprietors and peasantry and in +the interval cases of insubordination were frequent, +and even riots, when order was preserved by the +calling out of the troops. The “Arbiters of the +Peace” when organized restored order and regulated +the land question, issued charters, etc. between +the proprietors and serfs, legalizing the new +agreements, with or without their consent. In this +reconstruction many differences were to be reconciled +owing to the distrust of the freed serfs, but +gradually they came to know the situation better +and to help in the progress of the work, which has +advanced slowly but surely, notwithstanding the +complaints in some instances of the Noblesse, +through the wonderful tact of the conscientious +“Arbiters of the Peace.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>The law relating to the dues was as follows:—The +<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>dues were capitalised at six per cent and the +Government paid at once to the proprietors four-fifths +of the whole sum. The peasants were to pay +to the proprietor the remaining fifth, either at once +or in installments, and to the Government six per +cent, for forty-nine years, on the sum advanced. +This arrangement was willingly acceded to by the +proprietors but the peasants were so backward in +their payments, that in most cases their fifth had +to be remitted.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Of this gigantic, though gradual, reform the +Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> is acknowledged by all to be the +chief and most energetic and judicious promoter. +He was ably assisted by his brother the Grand Duke +Constantine and the Grand Duchess Helena, a +German Princess, aided by the Noblesse and the +landed proprietors, who when assured that emancipation +was inevitable joined enthusiastically in +its execution, and also by the peasantry of the better +sort as soon as they comprehended the advantages +of the law which gave them back their original +status in the social scale, and made them once more +personally free.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>After Emancipation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>It was so-called freedom in 1861, but they had to +serve as they had done for two years longer, for the +law had a provision enjoining them to obey and +work as hard as of old until some new arrangement +should be made. On appealing to the authorities +the field work was executed, after a fashion, but +the harvest suffered for a few years, until the peasants +began to realize the burden of the taxes they +were obliged to pay on the land, as well as support +themselves, and consented to work in the fields of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>their former owners for a moderate compensation, +taking advantage of the scarcity of labor, and taking +their leave on a word or two too much from +their employers, who are dependent upon them. +Previous to emancipation it was said that the +Russians had little or no practical acquaintance +with pauperism, but now some became fugitives, +and made it a permanent condition of life, wandering +through the cities and villages as professing +pilgrims or beggars, and were supported by the +alms giving of the merchants, the public generally +and the monasteries.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Rural Communes.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The government of the Rural Commune or Mir, +as established by the Act of Emancipation, is by a +Village Assembly and a Village Elder, but the +Elder’s authority is limited by the heads of households, +all having a common responsibility and paying +a fixed sum into the common treasury; even +the time of planting, mowing and harvesting, being +regulated by the Assembly, and all the households +are equally responsible for the taxes and dues. +The consent of the Assembly must be obtained if a +peasant desires to work in the larger towns, for his +liabilities must be made secure.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Every year the Village has to pay a certain sum +into the Imperial Treasury, according to the number +of male peasants; each Village distributing the +land, according to its own judgment, with taxes +and dues in proportion to the land, sometimes +according to the working power of the families, +which may change every few years, males and +females alike working on the land.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the meetings of the assemblies the majority +<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>rules, and is decided by a Court of the members, +composed of heads of households of both sexes, +standing in groups out of doors.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The office of Village Elder is sometimes elective, +at others he is appointed by the landed proprietor. +The office is not sought for, the duties being troublesome +and annoying, and the pay small. In the +allotment of the land the number of shares of which +may or may not be of advantage, according to the +peculiar circumstances of each, the decision of the +Commune is accepted without demur. Some of +these divisions take place annually, others at irregular +intervals. The system compels the peasant +to possess land whether he or she desires it or not. +Every peasant, by the simple fact of his birth, +possesses an inalienable right to a share of the land.</p> + +<p class='c013'>All that is necessary for their existence, their +houses, land, agricultural implements etc., are +exempt from sequestration, and cannot be taken +for debt. The peasants on the land belonging to +the state, have no masters, but are not allowed to +change their official domicile. They pay taxes and +dues. Many of them have left the villages and +have amassed fortunes in the cities, still retaining +their hold on the land by paying the taxes. The +remaining land belongs to rich nobles, who rarely +visit their estates, and the condition of the peasants +is much the same as that of the state peasants, +while others live on their estates.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Now, forty-three of the forty-nine years have +passed, and in January, 1904, the Tsar Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> +grandson of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, in response to calls for +legislation relative to a new draft of the present +code, with complaints of arbitrary conduct by the +administrative machinery from the highest assemblies +to the local committees, stipulates that changes +<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>on three points shall be reserved from discussion, +namely, that the peasant class must remain entirely +separate, legally, from the other classes; that the +Commune is to remain untouched by legislation, +and that the peasant lands are to remain inalienable. +The autocratic power still remains supreme. +March 3, 1904, for the first time since the Emancipation +of the serfs the anniversary was officially +observed throughout the empire as a general holiday +and with special services in the churches. +Thousands stood in the open air, uncovered, in the +great central market of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg chanting a +Te Deum.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Death of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>I was returning to my room in Paris, late one +Sunday night in March, 1881, having passed an +agreeable evening, first dining at my old classmate’s, +E. D. Boit’s, then listening to some music +and meeting some pleasant people at the house of +another artist Mr. G. P. A. Healy, and last calling +with Wad Longfellow upon the Kings, when I +heard a newsman on the boulevard crying out something +exciting though I could not catch what it was. +I bought his extra, “le Soir,” took it to my room, +and found that the news was nothing less than +this time the successful assassination on the 13th of +the Emperor of Russia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It made quite an impression upon me as I thought +it over, not only because I had met the Tsar two or +three times, but also from the interest I felt he had +taken in the cause of the Union during our civil +war; that he among the crowned heads of the world +had been, if not our only, at least our out-spoken +friend and sympathizer.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>How much in common there was both in the life +and death of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Abraham Lincoln! +Each of these men in his own land had been the +originator and bold champion of a plan of emancipation, +and each of them had at length fallen by +the hand of an assassin!</p> + +<p class='c013'>Prince Kropotkin in 1899, gave to the <cite>Atlantic +Monthly</cite> the following account of the death of the +Tsar:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>“A bomb was thrown under the Tsar’s iron-clad +carriage. Several Circassians of the escort were +wounded. Rysakoff, who flung the bomb, was +arrested on the spot. Then, although the coachman +of the Tsar earnestly advised him not to get +out, saying that he could drive him still in the +slightly damaged carriage, he stepped out. He +felt that his military dignity required him to see the +wounded Circassians, to condole with them, as he +had done with the wounded during the Turkish +war, when a mad storming of Plevna, doomed to +end in terrible disaster, was made on the day of his +fête.</p> + +<p class='c013'>He approached Rysakoff and asked him something, +and as he passed close by another young +man, Grinevetsky, the latter threw his bomb at their +feet, between himself and Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, so that +both of them should be killed by the terrible engine. +They lived but a few hours.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> lay upon the snow, profusely +bleeding, abandoned by every one of his +followers! All had disappeared. It was cadets, +returning from the parade, who lifted the bleeding +Tsar from the snow, and put him in a sledge, covering +his shivering body with a cadet mantle, and his +bare head with a cadet cap. And it was one of the +Terrorists, Emelianoff, with a bomb wrapped in a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>paper under his arm, who, at the risk of being +arrested on the spot and hanged, rushed with the +cadets to help the wounded man! Human nature +is full of these contrasts.”</p> + +<p class='c013'>It was at the canal bridge near the Nevski Prospect +that the bomb which shattered the body of +the Tsar below the waist was thrown, and he died +within an hour at his rooms in the Winter Palace. +It is said that these rooms and their contents have +never been disturbed in the least since the murdered +Tsar left them for his drive. The hands of the +clock on the mantel still point to 33 minutes past 3, +the moment the Tsar expired.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Monument at Moscow.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>August 28, 1898, a monument to Tsar Alexander +<abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> was unveiled at Moscow. His grandson, the +present Tsar, Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> issued a ukase referring +to the event and eulogizing the deeds of the deceased, +notably the liberation of the peasants from +bondage, which earned him the title of “The Deliverer,” +in the mouth of a grateful people. The closing +words were as follows:—</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Medals Made Hereditary.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Wishing to seal more firmly the memory of this historical +deed, we have resolved to make hereditary the wearing +and possession of the medals he conferred upon his co-operators, +as a sign of his gracious acknowledgment of +their labors.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='c013'>The Tsar also sent to M. Constantin Pobiedonostseff, +Procurator General of the Holy Synod, the +decoration of the Order of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Andrew, together +with an imperial rescript reminding him that he, of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>all the close co-operators with the deceased monarch, +alone remained in possession of the chiefship +of the administrative department then intrusted to +him.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The monument was unveiled by Emperor Nicholas +<abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, in the presence +of the Czarina, the Queen of the Hellenes, the +Cabinet, the German and Austrian Ambassadors, +deputations from all the land and naval forces of +Russia and the Austrian Uhlans Regiment.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The entire audience knelt while the clergy recited +a prayer in memory of the deceased.</p> + +<p class='c013'>At the moment of the unveiling the troops presented +arms, and a salute of 320 guns was fired. +Then the troops, with the Emperor at the head, +marched past the monument amid the enthusiastic +cheers of the people.</p> + +<div id='i_207' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_207.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>ODESSA, 1899.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span> + <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER TENTH.<br> <span class='c010'>EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870. DEMETRIUS GOUBAREFF. RUSSIA AND THE UNITED STATES.</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c011'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Peace—but the ships of steel increase,</div> + <div class='line in2'>And statesmen watch, perplexed:</div> + <div class='line'>What is the thing we folk term ‘peace’?</div> + <div class='line in2'>Where will the war be next?”</div> + <div class='line in24'>—<em>Edwin L. Sabin.</em></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>In London, Paris and Nice.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Introductory Remarks.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The ideas I give of Europe contained in the following +sketch written in London in April, 1870, +came to me from a residence of two years there, during +which time I had been constantly watching +events, and had been thrown with many of the +leading statesmen and financiers of the United +States.</p> + +<p class='c013'>What I pretended to know of the Eastern question, +I learned from the journey I made the previous +autumn through Russia, Turkey and Egypt, +with General Banks. It then struck me that it +would be well to open the eyes of the American +people to what was passing there as impartially as +possible, as thus far the English accounts had been +one-sided. I may appear to favor Russia too +strongly, but the boat in which we made the journey +<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>from Odessa to Egypt, and then through the Suez +Canal, was filled with Russian representatives, persons +representing almost all the Russian interests, +and they spoke to us, being Americans, most freely +on these subjects, and in such a way that we were +much impressed with the high ambitions of that +empire. It would have been difficult to have made +the journey under more favorable auspices.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The picture I drew of the future of the United +States was very strong, but the more one lives +away from America, the more he appreciates her +greatness, and the position she must surely hold +among the nations of the world, and I thought it +good to put the plain facts and statistics before +Europeans as well as Americans.</p> + +<p class='c013'>This paper, which I offered to the press, did not +appear originally in the form of a contribution, as +the war suddenly broke out between France and +Prussia before this was accomplished, but I had +copies of it printed in a pamphlet for private circulation, +and in that way it was quite generally read +and discussed.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I was of the opinion that neither Americans nor +Europeans were sufficiently alive to the position +which the United States was destined soon to hold +among the nations of the world, and that they ought +to be diligently preparing themselves for it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Having faith that the Great Republic will not +only remain undivided, but increase in territory, +population and strength, it logically follows that +she must later be the controlling power. In her, +humanity, commingled together and then reorganized, +will practically carry out the idea of self-government, +and such a government, if successful, +will be irresistible.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span> + <h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>Europe and America in 1870.</span>”</h3> +</div> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“Wars and rumors of wars must be, it would seem, for +many years to come the staple of talk in Europe. Nor is +this remarkable, so many different nationalities and languages, +so much intelligence and energy, and so many +shades of ambition being concentrated in a small space of +territory. Thus far in the history of the Old World those +in power have generally sought by arms or state craft to +strengthen the country in whose destiny they were interested. +Constant wars have been the result.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The principles of international interest, of working in +harmony to develop the resources of the globe, of which +perhaps the best exponent is trade and the necessary concomitant +peace, have been unfortunately considered +beneath the dignity of those who by birth, by fortune, or +by talent, have been able to hold leading positions. +Happily this is being changed. The great discoveries +of the last fifty years have given the world such an impulse +as it never received before. The comparative ease of +making money and of possessing it in safety, has caused +persons to look after their own interest more than that of +those who chanced to be their rulers. But the process of +change is slow, and emperors and kings are still able to +make wars even in opposition to the will of their subjects. +Wars are still not only a possibility, but a probability, and +every one is on the lookout for them. When there is lack +of other business, the cabinets of Europe will turn their +attention to the always vexed question of the balance of +power.</p> + +<p class='c013'>When newspaper editors are in want of interesting +matter to fill their sheets, they can ever bring out a glowing +statement of the Eastern question, or dilate upon the +relations existing between France and Prussia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The map of Europe never ceases to be an entertaining +study, and so a slight review of the present state of affairs +there, as seen and judged by the disinterested traveller, +may perhaps offer some points of interest to those who are +unable to make the journey themselves.</p> + +<p class='c013'>No one nation in Europe, today, seems to have a preponderating +influence over the others.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>England and France.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>England and France for a long time the most powerful +have not, during the last ten years, been making any international +<span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>progress, and if they have not by this been actually +losing their influence, they have remained in a state +of inaction, while others have made great advances to +equal or eclipse them. Nor is there to be seen in them +any prospect of changing their policy.</p> + +<p class='c013'>England is so much occupied with domestic questions, +especially those relating to Ireland, that she can give little +time or thought to anything else, unless of very great +import.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In France the holding the various discordant elements +in check, and forming out of them a strong and popular +government, is absorbing all the talent of her statesmen. +The aggressive enterprises that the existing government, +or rather that its head, has lately undertaken, have been +so fruitless and so doubtfully indorsed by the people, that +it is not probable anything of the kind will again be tried +unless upon an almost certainty of success.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Prussia.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Prussia may with a certain show of reason consider +herself the leader, but her, so to speak, inland position, +and the consequent difficulty of her having great naval +or commercial power, prevent her from taking that place +to which her arms and politics might entitle her. Besides +this her relations with both Northern and Southern Germany +are in a preparatory state, and the uncertainty of +her future movements, and of how they will be accepted, +is a present point of weakness. She is recognized to be +the strongest German nation, but the smaller independencies, +certain though they may be of becoming eventually +absorbed, are tenacious of preserving their individuality +as long as possible. They hesitate about siding with +or against Prussia, and as she cannot well now press the +question, matters are more or less at a standstill.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Austria.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Austria cannot, since the Peace of Prague, be regarded +as a first-class power of Europe; she must regain her lost +strength first, and for some time to come she will best +attempt this by solidifying her relations with Hungary, +and by infusing more advanced principles of government +into the authorities at Vienna.</p> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span> + <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Spain.</span></h3> +</div> + +<p class='c015'>In Spain, affairs are still holding their uneasy course, +and the world looks on astonished at the way the country +is taking care of itself; so many forms of government +proposed by so many different candidates that, in reality, +there is next to none whatever, but, to balance this, a fair +amount of contentment among the people. Not knowing +what they wish, the Spaniards drift on very well with +what they have.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Italy.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In Italy, economy is so necessary to preserve the +country, that no thought can be given to any foreign +ventures, while at Rome all other questions are dropped, +so long as the Ecumenical Council is sitting there in state.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Denmark, Norway and Sweden.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Denmark, Norway and Sweden, are engaged in discussing +topics of much local interest, and which may +perhaps, result in the unity of the three nations, but they +will have little influence upon the general march of events +in Europe.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russia.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Russia remains, as the last great nation to be discussed, +and here, on the stepping stone between Eastern and +Western ideas and civilizations, can be found the germs +of those movements which if not immediately forthcoming, +will, when they burst forth, startle the world with their +grandeur, and essentially change the features of the map +of Europe.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Russian Empire as it exists today,—the Russia +of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Gortschakoff,—the country which +has emancipated twenty million serfs and offered an equal +trial by jury to all its citizens, this nation, which, day by +day is increasing its territory and influence at home, and +which during a civil war in the other hemisphere extended +a kindly though many will say a not disinterested hand +to the party which represented progressive principles, the +Russian Empire, the friend of the American Republic, has +many qualities which might justly entitle it to leadership, +but the strange mixture of European and Asiatic elements +<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>in that country, so great in extent and so ambitious of +progress, as interpreted by it, is the cause of a confusion +of ideas, and prevents that unanimity of action which is +necessary to insure the respect and obedience of others.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Moreover, although the spirit of the people is extremely +democratic, the policy of the government is autocratic, +and in the latter part of this century it is impossible for +any but a government founded on popular principles and +supported by the people themselves, to command the +esteem and the envy of the masses in other portions of the +civilized world, and thus to give them laws. The seeds +of dominion are there, but it will take time for them to +ripen and bear their fruit.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Equipoise of Power.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>From this slight review of the position of the European +nations in 1870, one cannot help being impressed with the +equipoise of power, and concluding that this itself is a +strong guarantee of peace, but, in reality the peace is not +well founded, and cannot be abiding. It is an armed +peace, and as such, may cause the people deep anxiety. +Several millions of men in Europe, today, are wearing the +dress and drawing the pay of soldiers, and all for nothing. +Disarming is continually talked of, but is not being begun, +nor will it be, as long as the nations are mutually afraid +of each other. The pursuits of industry and commerce, +which would develop with increasing force if peace were +secure for ten or twenty years, are now, to a great extent, +held in check. Capitalists are afraid of embarking in +great enterprises, as they know not what may take place +before they will be completed. Thousands of laborers, +able-bodied and intelligent, through fear of being drawn +into military service are leaving the lands of their birth +and emigrating to distant shores, there to seek their +fortunes: a great gain to the countries which receive them, +but a more than proportionate loss to those they leave, +as their places cannot be filled.</p> + +<p class='c013'>One should not seriously wish for war, except in the +most extreme cases, and where the prospect of the good +to follow seems more than to compensate for the immediate +evil.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Looking into the Future.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Without admitting this to be the case now, but believing +that the present peace cannot, from the press of circumstances +<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>last many years, let us look a little into the future, +and try to divine where it will be first broken, and what +will be the results. It is to the East of Europe we must +turn our thoughts, and here it seems as if great events +would soon be in motion. The problem to be solved is +the dismemberment of the Ottoman Empire, and the consequent +independence of one nation, and the increase in +power of several others.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The actors in the drama will be Turkey, Russia, Egypt, +Greece, and perhaps the Slavonic portions of Austria, the +theatre will be parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa, and the +most interested spectators will be France, England, and +the United States.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Possession of Constantinople.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>It must be well borne in mind that the integrity of +Turkey has been guaranteed for many years, if not actually +preserved, by the cabinets of France and England. +So many pamphlets and articles have been written by +those representing the interests of those governments on +one side, and so little has been said on the opposite side, +that it has almost become an acknowledged fact that the +carrying out of this idea is necessary for the peace of +Europe and of the world. Their arguments are strong, +but will not influence him who visits Constantinople with +an unprejudiced mind. The key to the riddle is the +possession of that city. England and France know that +they themselves cannot obtain it, and this being the case, +they are determined to do all in their power to prevent any +other nation from doing so. It is almost impossible for +one who has not been there himself, to form a fair opinion +of what should be the future of that beautiful city of the +East, but once there, the decision is soon reached that it +should no longer belong to the Turks, but to some people, +whoever they may be, who will do justice to the advantages +Nature has given it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Constantinople is so placed that it is one of the keys of +the waters of the world, and as such it ought to be a great +commercial centre. The city, as it now is, renders this +impossible, and the Turks, judging from their antecedents +and their present manner of existence, are incapable of +change.</p> + +<p class='c013'>A distinguished statesman of the United States (Gen. +N. P. Banks) one day asked the Turkish minister at Washington, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>if in his country there were many persons celebrated +for their success in finance or business.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Minister slowly opened his dark mysterious eyes, +and with a half-amused, half-pitying gaze, replied:—</p> + +<p class='c013'>‘Sir, my countrymen know nothing of affairs, the Turks +are warriors.’</p> + +<p class='c013'>In the quiet answer of that Turk, a man who held not +only a high position in his own country, but had also seen +the active life in America, there is a meaning which one +cannot well appreciate who has not been among the people +of whom he spoke. They seem to belong to a different +age and world from ours. They know almost nothing +of the wonderful things every day done in this nineteenth +century, and, if they are told, they take but little interest, +and are incapable of comprehending them.</p> + +<p class='c013'>As already stated the city of Constantinople, until +radically changed, does not admit of greatness. Some +of the civilizing appliances of this century judiciously put +in movement, would soon change the mysterious city of +the Orient, replete with the souvenirs of Constantine and +Mohammed, into a great commercial mart. The past +would be sacrificed for the future, but the sacrifice would +be justifiable. Useless Romance would drop her fascinating +garment, and stand arrayed as the goddess of +Practical Progress.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The question then is, who will begin the work?</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Turks will certainly not; indeed, their opposition +to it will be so strong that it cannot well be undertaken +until they see that their empire is broken, and that their +natural refuge is over the water into Asia, where they +belong.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The mover of all this will be a nation which has the most +to gain from the results,—Russia, and fortunately a +nation fired with the ambitions of progress, and with +sufficient power to be able to carry them out. The intelligent +men of Russia know that it is needful to the dignity +of the nation, as a sentiment, to its safety militarily, and +to its commercial prosperity, to have all the water rights +and privileges in the Black Sea, and in the straits which +connect it with those waters which are acknowledged to +be the common property of mankind. Until this is +brought about their machinery is clogged, and for this the +possession of Constantinople is so important as almost to +be a necessity.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Russians are already at the work, and the faster it +<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>advances the better. Slowly and steadily since the peace +was signed at the end of the Crimean War, the government +at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, deeply humbled then, is preparing for +the struggle which will restore her lost rights, and give her +many additional ones. Day by day, she is spreading out +her net-work of railroads, steamboats, telegraphs, and +post-roads; imperceptibly she is increasing her territory, +and this on principles so judiciously arranged for the +conquered, that each fresh Asiatic horde absorbed, soon +becomes as proud of the grandeur of Russia as if it had +always been a part of the empire. Vessels for the navy +and commerce are being built on her northern and southern +seas, and her large inland rivers; her grain-trade is rapidly +increasing, and her rich mines and other resources are +being developed. Besides all this, she has a strong point +of safety in the intense feeling of nationality, daily swelling, +which pervades all the Muscovites. In sentiment +the army is a unit, and the entire population of the vast +empire shout wildly on every occasion for the health and +prosperity of the Tsar.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There may be something barbaric in all this, but it is the +stuff out of which national greatness can be made, and it +may cause anxiety to those countries where such a feeling +does not exist.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Country of the Pharaohs.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>The nation most interested after Russia, in the division +of Turkey, perhaps as much or even more interested, +because her own independence is the prize she can win, +is Egypt, that historic land, which, once the mistress of +the world, but today a vassal, has in the future as fine a +destiny as could be desired. The canal lately opened +through the Isthmus of Suez, has done more for Egypt +than fifty ordinary years might have accomplished.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It has turned the thoughts of civilized Europe for more +than ten years upon that country; it has kept their attention +interested, and the result has been more than satisfactory.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Europe has not, in modern days, expected to find much +good in the country of the Pharaohs, but it has found that +although matters there are not what the sanguine might +wish, they are still unquestionably in every point where +comparison is possible, very far in advance of Turkey.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>The infusion of Western ideas into the inhabitants of a +land who have been brought up for centuries to despise +them, is no easy task, but this the Vice Roi of Egypt has +been attempting, and with fair success. He appreciates +the age in which he lives as any one who has visited Cairo +can plainly see, and he feels his superiority over the Sultan +so strongly, that he is merely waiting for the time to be +ripe, to openly disobey the orders from Constantinople, +and assert his independence. Many thought, and with +reason, that at the opening of the Suez Canal the time for +this action had come, but nothing was then done, perhaps +because the armed force of the Khedive was insufficient +for the attempt, or that having accomplished a great +commercial success, he hesitated risking a military failure, +or, more probably still, because the diplomatic complications +were such that he could not make an advantageous +alliance.</p> + +<p class='c013'>For what is to be done Egypt should go hand-in-hand +with Russia, but at the present time this is a difficult +combination to form.</p> + +<p class='c013'>In constructing the Suez Canal, France has done everything +for Egypt, and the presence of the Empress Eugénie +at the opening ceremonies was the natural culmination of +the work.</p> + +<p class='c013'>An alliance between France and Egypt, strong enough +to give France a foothold in the East, and thereby to +checkmate the power of England, but not binding her to +make a rupture with the rulers at Constantinople on the +question of Egyptian independence, would be a fine thing +for Napoleon, but would do Ismail little good. A rational +alliance between Russia and Egypt, each country working +for itself and the other, would be desirable enough, but for +this it would be necessary to give France the cold shoulder, +and in return receive her resentment.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Russia, France, and Egypt, cannot now combine +together. The results of the Crimean war are not forgotten +at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and, besides this, the existing +relations between Russia and Prussia on other European +questions are such that the former cannot yet offer France +a friendly hand.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The ambition of Napoleon is boundless, but he knows +that the prestige he would acquire in working out the +independence of Egypt, would be overbalanced by what +would fall to the share of the Emperor of Russia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>England, too, could not keep out of the dispute, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>although lately she has been very silent on the Eastern +question, at the moment of action, regardless of what she +has done in the past, and of her half-promises for the +future, she would bring great force to bear, and in such +a way as to derive advantage for herself alone.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Austro-Hungarian Empire and Greece have both +something to gain from the dismemberment of the Ottoman +Empire, but, in their present condition, they must +move in the wake of others, they cannot lead the operations. +A masterly brain and arm might unite the different +Slavonic elements on the banks of the Danube, part +of which now belong to Turkey, and amalgamate them +into the Austrian Empire, but it is doubtful if this would +be a desirable move, for, while it would give strength in +territory and population to Austria, it would tend to +weaken the German element of the country, and this +would be fatal if she wishes to be regarded as the great +South-German nation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The title of Kaiser of Germans, always has and could +still give prestige, but the same title held by one whose +empire was in reality composed of Slavs, would not, but +on the contrary aid the government of Prussia in its plans +of German unity, and unity on a more democratic basis. +Austria’s best course, therefore, would be to take no +active part, but to await the results and turn them as +best she could to her advantage.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The Greeks and Turks have never loved each other, +and while Greece is too weak for definite action at first, +she could later lend a helping hand in the movements +which would result in restoring to her the provinces of +Thessaly and Epirus, which though under the dominion +of Turkey are Greek in everything but the name. Greece +thus regenerated, might again become quite an important +country, and with the commerce which the Suez Canal +opens to her with the Indies, take her place as a growing +maritime nation.</p> + +<p class='c013'>There are no other important moves now apparent in +the horizon of European politics. As mentioned above, +the great powers are too much interested in domestic +affairs to be able to give much thought to what their +neighbors are doing.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It has been expected by many that the continued growling +heard both from France and Prussia, would sooner +or later end in open rupture and war, (The Franco-Prussian +war broke out three months later, July 19, 1870.) +<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>but one who watches the course of events closely can see +that while they both say they are ready, neither of them +desires to break the peace. Neither will be the first to +sound the alarm, for they both know they have almost +nothing to gain from the result, for, should the war come, +it would accomplish little but the destruction of the lives +of many thousand soldiers. Whichever side was victorious, +the boundary line between the two nations would be but +slightly changed. The existing line is the natural one, +for it is the line of language and race, and, although war +could move it on one side or the other, for a time, it +would soon fall back again to the plane from which it +started. The strength of the two nations is so nearly +equal that neither can absorb portions of the other. +The Rhine is a German river, and neither diplomacy nor +war can make it French.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Non-intervention of the United States.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>And now, in conclusion, what position should the Government, +or rather the people of the United States, take +in relation to the march of events in Europe? Are we +to hold forever to our established principle of non-intervention, +when we conscientiously believe that judicious +intervention would often advance the cause of progress?</p> + +<p class='c013'>Better at least keep the right of speaking and acting +as we please, but use it sparingly, and never hesitate to +give sympathy and moral aid,—sometimes more helpful +than actual assistance,—to the parties in any struggle +which we believe to have justice on their side.</p> + +<p class='c013'>But when we look into the future, and a no very distant +future at that, and consider that at the end of this century +we shall be a nation of one hundred millions, thinking +persons can easily see that the preponderance of strength +in our favor will be so overwhelming, that non-intervention +will be a practical impossibility. The weak of the +earth will come to us for protection, and we shall not +wish to throw them off.</p> + +<p class='c013'>What a country it will be in 1900!</p> + +<p class='c013'>One hundred million people, all with a strong sense of +liberty, but not of license; all educated, or desirous and +able to become so; all ambitious, because the highest +prizes are within their reach; nearly all speaking one language: +with private fortunes greater than the world has +ever seen, and with the natural resources of the country +then in their flower.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>One cannot dwell upon this prospect without swelling +with pride, and at the same time almost trembling at its +very grandeur.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The mighty Republic of the United States, which sprang +into existence less than a century ago, will be the acknowledged +law-giver and arbiter of the entire world.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Perhaps at no time has the temptation for us to mix +in the affairs of Europe been so strong as today, because, +selfishly speaking, we have everything to gain and nothing +to lose. (It must be remembered that <em>every word</em> of this +article was written in 1870.) A mere spark which could +any moment be struck at Washington would in three +months’ time set Europe in flames.</p> + +<p class='c013'>An excuse like the Cuban difficulty (The independence +of Cuba, achieved at the close of the century by the assistance +of the United States in its war with Spain), the long +pending question of the Alabama Claims, (Claims of the +United States upon Great Britain for damages by the +<em>Alabama</em> and other Confederate cruisers, settled in 1872, +at Geneva, by a court of arbitration.) the relations between +the Sultan and the Khedive, or the foolishness now between +France and the United States about the postal treaty or +the Atlantic cable. Any of these would be sufficient to +do the work, and what would be the result? (The postal +union was formed by a congress of delegates representing +the principal governments of Europe and the United +States, assembled at Berne, Switzerland, in September, +1874. A treaty was concluded establishing a uniform +rate of postage for letters of 5 cents per half ounce.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>Thousands and thousands of able-bodied men, with +no taste for war, and especially war for the gratification +of crowned heads, would seize every opportunity of +leaving their native lands and hastening to America. +It would be impossible to prevent them.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Millions and millions of treasure seeking safe investment, +would find its way to the United States, and all +that is wanted to develop the country, is hands to work +the natural resources and money to pay for it.</p> + +<p class='c013'>America would become what England has been for +many years, the strong box of the world. England can +be so no more.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Telegraph communication and steam have put her so +near the continent of Europe, that she can no longer be +regarded as a sure land of refuge for men or money. +Nay, it is doubtful if she could actually keep out of the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>conflict. The safe must be separated from the combatants +by a broader piece of water than the Straits of Dover. +Three thousand miles are not too much for perfect security. +The action of the United States could bring on any +war it wished, but the country itself would have nothing +to fear. Its strength is so great that it could meet fairly +in the field any possible combination of the nations of +Europe. The feeling of animosity between the northern +and southern states, which has existed during the civil +war, but which is happily now almost over, would end +in fraternal enthusiasm if the country should engage in +a popular war against any other nation. But the carnage +once begun in Europe could not be carried over the +Atlantic, as there would be enough to keep it there. The +United States would be in any case the attacked and not +the attacking party, and modern warfare has arrived at +the point that, other things being equal, the party which +attacks a distant land is almost sure to be worsted.</p> + +<p class='c013'>What would fall to the lot of the United States would +be the business of the world. The carrying trade of the +nations would be done by her, and the problem of the +revival of her shipping be by the action of others solved. +All the merchant vessels which plough the Atlantic and +Pacific oceans, would claim the protection of the Stars +and Stripes, and this means limitless sums of money +poured into her treasury, wealth to the country, and +wealth to private individuals. The prestige of her flag +would be such as none ever had before.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Path of Peace.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Such is the prospect which opens before the vision of the +people of the United States today. Deeply conscious of +our great power, let us be equally conscious of our responsibility +in best employing that power for the benefit of +mankind. Let us remember that our path is the path of +peace, and not that of war, let us endeavor not to be turned +from it by the constant temptations of false glory, for, if +we are, we shall ourselves suffer for it later, and cause +others to suffer.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It is for its to show to Europe, not what advantages can +be derived from war and diplomacy, which are the weapons +of the past, but what greater advantages can be derived +from the weapons of the present and the future,—the +weapons of our own peculiar fabrication,—such as the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>nobility of labor and universal education and freedom. +Only by acting thus shall we be able to prove to the nations +who are even now ‘hanging breathless on our fate,’ that +we truly carry with us a grander civilization than has ever +yet been seen.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From a Letter to My Sister at Manchester.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>“Club House, Newport, August 7, 1870: I was in +Boston yesterday, and had just about ten minutes +at 39 Beacon street, where I found your nice letter. +I am very comfortably established here, in a little +apartment with my friend Bob. Winthrop of New +York, and here I mean to have my headquarters, +running off occasionally to New York or Boston +and I hope before long to turn up at ‘Sharksmouth.’ +I have been really very much occupied +the last month, what with my own affairs, <em><span lang="fr">la haute +finance</span></em> at Washington and New York, with the +thermometer at 90°, and with occasional visits to +my friends, and have been very happy with all the +work. I have my old horse ‘Trumps’ from South +Carolina, and he is in as fine a condition as when I +left him, more than two years ago. He reposes in +solitary dignity in the stable.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Poor Europe in 1870, is terribly changed!</p> + +<p class='c013'>I am going to print my little article in a pamphlet +by itself, with an introduction suited to the +times, and will send you a copy when it appears. +I came to the conclusion that to alter it to suit the +ever changing news from Europe would be impossible, +and would really spoil it, and so I will let it +remain as it is as one of my first literary attempts.</p> + +<p class='c013'>I have been to Long Branch, and it is the most +extraordinary American political rendezvous I ever +saw.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>The war in Europe sickens me, so many thousand +poor fellows to be murdered and maimed for +wicked personal ambition. The whole business of +the world is thrown into our hands,—I mean the +United States of America,—if we only take it.”</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Goubareff the Russian.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>Demetrius Goubareff was a very intelligent +Russian, to whom I was first introduced in 1871 or +1872. As a young man he had liberated his serfs +before the emancipation action of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> +and had been a progressive man in every way. He +wrote a book entitled “Philosophie—Religion.” +He had, I believe, taken part in the Crimean war, +and then again in 1879, entered the service of his +country at the time of the later attempt to obtain +possession of Constantinople, which I have been +informed was balked only by the interposition of +Bismarck. The matter I thought ought to have +been settled then and there.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Mr. Goubareff lived much at Nice and Paris, and +often visited London. He kept up an extensive +correspondence with many interesting persons.</p> + +<p class='c013'>He passed Sunday with me at Vevey, Switzerland, +in March, 1876, and we had an excellent +chance to talk there quietly and at our leisure. I +found that he was much interested in the “Association +for the Codification and Reform of the +Law of Nations,” of which, on my proposing him, +he became a member. I was very glad of this because +he proposed to make a good deal of occupation +for himself out of it, getting acquainted, and +opening correspondence with many of the distinguished +persons who were on the list of its members, +and would prove a very valuable addition to the +organization.</p> + +<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>The following month in Paris Mr. Goubareff +introduced me to the Golovine family, and we +dined with them and strolled together in the beautiful +gardens of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Germain.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russia and the United States.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Written in Boston in 1873.</span></h3> + +<div class='c004'></div> +<blockquote> +<p class='c013'>“A good deal has been said and written the last ten +years, about the strong friendship existing between Russia +and the United States, the coquetting, as it has been called, +of these two nations with each other.</p> + +<p class='c013'>That such an <em><span lang="fr">entente cordiale</span></em> has existed is beyond all +dispute, but the causes of it open a wide field for discussion.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The nations of Europe who have watched its progress +with some evident alarm for themselves, have come forward +with many unasked-for explanations, to clearly +prove that such a thing is out of all reason, that it should +not be, that it is all nonsense, thereby admitting all the +more plainly the ugly fact. Particularly kind and disinterested +have they been in their advice to the youthful +United States, warning her to be careful, lest she be outwitted +by the shrewd diplomacy of the Muscovite Cabinet, +telling her that it was all a smart trick on the part of the +Russian government, from which they only wanted to +carry out their own ambitious ends, and this done, they +would be ready at any moment to give the innocent and +confiding Americans the slip.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It is pleasant, as a citizen of the United States to feel +what good friends we have on the other side of the Atlantic,—real +friends, too,—who are ready to come forward, +now that we are out of the woods, to save us from the +terrible fate of being killed by too much kindness.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Like the almost historic personage who was talked to +death, perhaps there is danger in store for the American +Republic of being <em>advised</em> to death by her older brothers +and sisters.</p> + +<p class='c013'>It does not take an over-intelligent person to see that +between a military autocracy, under the sway of an almost +absolute ruler, and a government of the people, intrusting +the management of its affairs temporarily to its chosen +representatives, there cannot be, theoretically, certainly, +much genuine and heartfelt sympathy. This is superficially +<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>the view which any one would take. But deeper +reflection on the traits, or, better still, living among the +people of whom such a comparison is made, will show that +this curious sympathy is not by any means a matter of +government alone,—important as that is to aid it,—but +lies hidden in the life of the people themselves, only to be +brought out by a curious combination of circumstances.</p> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Double Event of Emancipation.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>At times the spark will be struck, and blaze forth into a +great conflagration. Such a time was the late civil war +in North America, which was the cause of the emancipation +of the slaves in the Southern states, when, to correspond +with it, at about the same epoch, but from entirely +different causes, came the liberation of the serfs all through +Russia.</p> + +<p class='c013'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Abraham Lincoln then found a bond +of fellowship existing between them, which nothing could +break, and the masses in Russia and in the United States, +were only too ready to take up the double event and magnify +it in their feeling to an unlimited extent. Then +many other points of similarity were discovered; the great +extent of territory of both nations, giving each a future in +the development of the resources placed there by nature, +whether on the surface of the earth or under it, which +restricted limits had denied to the other nations of the +continent. This same vastness of land, educating many +to be merchants, and farmers, and miners, and railroad +owners on a grand scale, caused a corresponding freedom +of thought and independence of action,—in other words +democratized the people who had come under its influence,—in +a way which cannot well be appreciated by those +whose life is passed in crowded cities alone, where the +prestige of courts and the presence of cliques make individuality +much less marked.</p> + +<p class='c013'>The two nations, the republic and the empire, owned a +wide frontage on the Pacific ocean, which they came in +imagination to regard as a huge lake, and this their common +property. Other events, too, at this time were used +with great effect; such as the arrival of the Russian squadron +in America (The Russian fleet in New York, Boston, +and San Francisco in 1863.), the visit of Assistant Secretary +of the Navy Fox in 1866, and that of Admiral Farragut +in 1867, (Admiral Farragut was in Russia the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>greater part of August in that year, and it was said the +friendship and courtesy of both government and people +were especially marked.) the purchase of Alaska (In 1867, +organized July 27, 1868.) and the return call of the Grand +Duke Alexis to the United States. (The third son of the +Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> of Russia visited this country in +December 1871, and at a banquet Oliver Wendell Holmes +welcomed him with the following words:—</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>‘Bleak are our shores with the blasts of December,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Fettered and chill is the rivulet’s flow,</div> + <div class='line'>But throbbing and warm are the hearts that remember</div> + <div class='line in2'>Who was our friend when the world was our foe.’</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c013'>There was a gift to the poor of New York when the +Russian squadron took leave of New York in 1863, a voluntary +subscription of $4,760 from the officers, and during +the famine in Russia in 1891, our government sent over +five large steamers loaded with grain collected from +almost every state in the Union.)</p> + +<p class='c013'>But, supposing there were no characteristics in common, +it will not soon be forgotten in America that, during the +long years of the terrible war, while many of the nations of +Europe were clinging to the policy of keeping an uncompromising +but none the less watchful armed neutrality, +rulers and aristocracies in their hearts against the cause +of the North, while the lower classes everywhere went with +it, Russia, of all the great nations, alone came forward, +and gave openly its sympathy to the side which represented +a more advanced civilization, and which as such, in spite +of its many disheartening defeats, was bound to triumph +in the end. A person who is hard pressed in life, when a +friend comes up to give him encouragement, does not stop +to reflect why it is given, and try to put a selfish construction +on the offer, he accepts it on the spot, and is not apt +to forget the donor in a hurry. So Americans are not to be +easily persuaded that Russia’s assistance to them at that +critical period in their country’s history, was a mere diplomatic +sham and meaningless parade. They are willing +to be ignorant still, if this is so, and need more powerful +arguments to disprove them than have yet been raised by +their officious counsellors.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russo-American Fever.</span></h3> + +<p class='c015'>In the year of my first journey to Russia, 1866, +the Russo-American fever was at its height, and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>it was a very pleasant thing for those who caught +it when travelling in the other country. They +were fêted and hugged, and wined, and tossed, +according to the customs of the people, and their +nationality alone was a sufficient passport to pass +them along the lines of sight-seeing and pleasure, +passing unchallenged,—nay, rather invited in. +The entire nation was in the attitude of “present +arms” to him from the other country who desired +to pass through on a tour of inspection.</p> + +<hr class='c018'> + +<div class='lg-container-b c016'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“And the great ships sail outward and return,</div> + <div class='line in2'>Bending and bowing o’er the billowy swells,</div> + <div class='line'>And ever joyful, as they see it burn,</div> + <div class='line in2'>They wave their silent welcomes and farewells.”</div> + <div class='line in8'>—<cite>Henry W. Longfellow, The Lighthouse.</cite></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c002'> + <div>FINIS.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div id='i_226' class='figcenter id004'> +<img src='images/i_226.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>PORT SAID. OPENING OF THE SUEZ CANAL.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='c001'></div> +<nav data-epub-type="index"> +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span> + <h2 class='c006'>INDEX<br> <span class='small'>TO</span><br> <span class='large'>PERSONS, PLACES, AND SUBJECTS</span></h2> +</div> + +<ul class='index c002'> + <li class='c019'>Academy of Fine Arts, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Academy of Music, Brooklyn, <abbr title='New York'>N. Y.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Academy of Music, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Admiralty, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>After Emancipation, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Agricultural Exhibition, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alabama Claims, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alaska, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Albania, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>–96, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>–138, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>–175, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>–197, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Death of, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>–205.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Monument, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alexandria, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Alice, yacht, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Allston, Washington, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>–132.</li> + <li class='c019'>Andrews, Christopher Columbus, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Appleton, D. & Co., <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Appleton, Thomas Gold, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–20, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>–132, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Appomattox Court House, Va., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Army of the Potomac, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Artillery Brigade, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Artists’ Club, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ashuelot, man-of-war, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Asniéres, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Astor, W. W., <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Augusta, man-of-war, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Avenue de l’Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Ball, Thomas, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Baltic Sea, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Baltimore, Md., <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Banks, Nathaniel P., <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>–174, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Barlow, S. L. M., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bartlett, Joseph J., <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Battle of Antietam, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Beaumont, Sir George, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Behring Straits, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Behring, Vitus, discoverer, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bellevue Avenue, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Belmont, August, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>–147.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bennett, James Gordon, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bennett, James Gordon, Jr., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>–29, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Berdan, Hiram, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Berlin, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>–74, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Besborodko, Koucheleff, Count, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bicknell, Albion H., <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bismarck-Schonhausen, Otto Edward Leopold, Prince von, Chancellor of the Empire, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Black Sea, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bois de Boulogne, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>–40, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boit, Edward D., <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boston, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boston Athenæum, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boston Board of Trade, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boston Museum of Fine Arts, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boston Public Library, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bowditch, Henry P., <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bowles Brothers & Co., Bankers, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bowles, Charles, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bowles, Drevet & Cie, Paris, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bowles, Robert, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Boyer, Alexandre, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brest, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brevoort House, New York, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brevoort Place, New York, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bric-a-Brac Club, Boston, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brighton Road, Brighton District, Boston, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brindisi, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brown, Edward Ingersol, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Brown, John Murray, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>Brussels, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Bullock, Alexander H., <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Burgess, Frank, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Burlingame, Anson, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>–169, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Burlington Arcade, London, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Café Napolitaine, Paris, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cairo, Egypt, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cambridge, Mass., <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cameron, Simon, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Camp Douglas, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Carnatz Connection, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Carolina Filly, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Caspian Sea, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Catherine <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Caucasus, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cercle des Capucines, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cercle Franco-Américain, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Champ de Mars, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Chandler, Zachariah, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Charing Cross Hotel, London, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Chase, Salmon P., <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Chicago, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Chicago Exposition, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>China, steamship, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Chinese Embassy, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>–169.</li> + <li class='c019'>Christmas Day, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Church of Saint Sophia, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Church of Sault Isaac, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Circassia, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Clark, Arthur H., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Clay, Cassius M., <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>–96, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Clyde Park, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Coaching Club, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Coffey, Titian J., <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Colfax, Schuyler, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cologne, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Commune, France, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Commune, or Mir, Russia, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>–203.</li> + <li class='c019'>Compiègne, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Comte, Auguste, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Constantinople, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>–216, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Copenhagen, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Corbin, Austin, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Costume Ball, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>–147.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Country Club, Brookline, Mass., <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cowdin, Elliot C., <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cowes, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cowes Roads, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cracow, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Crane, Edward A., <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Crimea, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Crimean War, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cronstadt, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Crowninshield, B. W., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Cuba, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Curtin, Andrew G., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Curtin, Jeremiah, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Curtis, T. B., <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Danube River, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dauntless, yacht, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Davis, Tom Kemper, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>De Gogorza, Anthoine, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>De Lesseps, Ferdinand, Count, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Delmonico’s, New York, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>De Long, George W., <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Demidoff Mines, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>De Richelieu, Armand Emanuel du Plessis, Duke, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>De Trobriand, Philippe Regis, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dieppe, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>District of Columbia, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dix, John A., <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>–167.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dneiper River, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>D’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, Duke, Spanish Ambassador, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dresden, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Drexel, A. J., <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Drexel, Harjes & Co., <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dumaresq, Armand, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Dvina River, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Easton’s Beach, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Elsinore, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Compensated, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>–50, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Double Event of, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Gradual, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>–50, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation Law of Russia, Manifesto, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Proclamation in the United States, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>–54.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Result of War, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Emperor of Austria, Franz Joseph <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>English Channel, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>English Club, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Erlanger, Emile, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Erlanger, Louis, Count Excelmans, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Europe and America in 1870, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>–222.</li> + <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>Evans, Thomas W., <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Executive Mansion or White House, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Faneuil Hall, Boston, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Farragut, David Glasgow, Admiral, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fearing, H. S., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fetridge, William Pembroke, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fifth Avenue, New York, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fifth Corps, Army of the Potomac, Union Forces, War of 1861-’65, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fifteenth Amendment, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fifty-fifth N. Y. Regt. Inf., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Finland, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Finland, Grand Duchy of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Finland, Gulf of, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>First Mass. Cavalry, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>–158.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fish, Hamilton, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fleetwing, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fogg Museum, Harvard College, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Folies Dramatiques, Paris, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fontainebleau, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Forbes, Paul, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ford’s Theatre, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Forest of Fontainebleau, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Four-in-Hand Club, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fourteenth Amendment, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fox, Gustavus Vasa, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fox’s Mission, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fremont, John C., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Friederichshamm, Peace of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Frog Pond, Boston Common, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Fugitive Slave Law, repeal of, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Gagarine, Julie, Princess, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Galitzine, Prince, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Garcia, John, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gare de l’ Ouest, Paris, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Garrison, William Lloyd, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gautier, Théophile, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>General Kotzebue, steamship, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>German Club, Moscow, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gettysburg, Penn., <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gillig, Henry F., <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Goddard, Ely, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Golden Horn, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gortschakoff, Alexander Michailowitsch, Prince, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gostinny Dvor, Moscow, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gott, Daniel, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Goubareff, Demetrius, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Duchess Helena, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Alexis, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Constantine, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Nicholas, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Hotel, Paris, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, Moscow, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Prix, Paris, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grand Theatre, Moscow, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Grant, Ulysses S., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gray Collection of Engravings, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gray, Francis Colley, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gray, George Griswold, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Great Eastern, steamship, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Greek Church, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Green, J. Orne, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Gregg, John I., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Hamburg, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Harvard College, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Havana, Cuba, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hayti, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Healy, G. P. A., <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Henrietta, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hereditary Medals, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hermitage, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Higginson, Frank L., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Holland, J. G., <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Holy Synod, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hooker, Joseph, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hotel de la Paix, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hotel Dusaux, Moscow, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hudson River, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hunnewell, Hollis, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hunt, William Morris, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>–42.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hunter, David A., <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hurlburt, William Henry, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Hyde Park, London, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Imperial Library, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Invitation, Note of, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Isla, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ismailia, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ivan <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Jackson, Charles C., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jagellon, Duke of Lithuania, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jamaica Pond, Roxbury, Mass., <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jay, William, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jeannette, steamship, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jerome, Lawrence, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jerome, Leonard W., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>Jockeys’ Ball, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Johnson, Andrew, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Johnson, “Ned”, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Jonesville, East Tennessee, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Khedive, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kimball, Moses, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>King of Prussia, William <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Knapp, A. W., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Königsberg, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kosciusko, Thaddeus, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kremlin, Moscow, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kremlin, Novgorod, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kronborg Castle, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kropotkin, Prince, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Kung, Prince, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Lafayette, Gilbert Motier de, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lamson, Daniel S., <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lane, David, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lee, John C., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lee, Robert E., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Le Ray, Maurice, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>–67, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, Death of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>–63.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, Statues of, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lithuanian Provinces, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lockwood, Alfred, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>London, Eng., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Long Branch, New Jersey, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Longchamps, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Charles A., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>–25, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>–140, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>–159.</li> + <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Ernest, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Henry W., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lorillard, George, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lorillard, Louis, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Loubat, J. F., Duc de, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Louvre, Paris, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lundy, Benjamin, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Lyrique, Paris, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Manchuria, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Manhattan Club, New York, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Manifesto of Emancipation, Russia, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Marble, Manton, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Martin, Augustus P., <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Maximilian, Ferdinand Joseph, Emperor of Mexico, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mazourka, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>McClellan, George B., <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>McVickar, William H., <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Meade, George G., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mediterranean Sea, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Merrill, T. Watson, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mesnil, Baron de, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Metropolitan, Moscow, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Metropolitan, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Miantonomoh, monitor, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mickiewicz, Adam, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mill Dam Road, Boston, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mine Run, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Russia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ministry of Public Instruction, Russia, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mississippi River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Morley, Henry, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Moscow, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>–103, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>–118, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Moscow, gas-lighting of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mount Cenis Tunnel, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Mount Pleasant, Ohio, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Muscovy, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Nahant, Mass., <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Napoleon Bonaparte, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Napoleon <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>–164, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Narragansett Avenue, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>National Museum, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Navy and Army Club, Cronstadt, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Neva Club, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Neva River, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Neva Skating Club, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nevski Prospect, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Newfoundland, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>New or Mount Hope Church, Va., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>–158.</li> + <li class='c019'>New London, Conn., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>New Orleans, La., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Newport, N. H., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>–33, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., Beach, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>–33, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., Jockey Club, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>New York City, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>New York Club, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>New York Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nice, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nicholas <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nisbet, W. F., <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>Nobility Club, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Non-Intervention of the United States, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>–220.</li> + <li class='c019'>Norton, Charles B., <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nottaway Court House, Va., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Novgorod, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Nuba Pasha, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Odessa, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>–179, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Oglesby, R. J., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Opera House, Berlin, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Oriental Quadrille, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Oscar, King of Sweden and Norway, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Otis, James, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Otis, William C., <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ourousoff, Prince, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ourousoff, Princess, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Palais Royal, Paris, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Panama Canal, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Paris, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>–11, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>–17, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>–40, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>–169, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Paris Exposition of 1867, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Passage, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Passage des Panoramas, Paris, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Patriarch Adrian, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Patriarch of Constantinople, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Patriarchal Cathedral, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Patti, Adelina, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Paul, Emperor, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Peabody, George, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Peabody, S. Endicott, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Perkins, C. C., <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Peter the Great, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Peter <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Philippe’s, Paris, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Phœnix, Lloyd, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Picpus Cemetery, Paris, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Pierce, Josiah, Jr., <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Place de la Concorde, Paris, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Place de l’Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Place du Nouvel Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Plevna, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Poland, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>–155, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Polar Sea, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Pompeiian Villa, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Pomutz, George, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Port Said, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Post, Albert Kintzing, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Postal Union, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Post, Waldron Kintzing, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Prague, Peace of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Pratt, Thomas, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Pré Catalan, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Presentation, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Proclamation of Emancipation, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>–54.</li> + <li class='c002'>Raasloff, Waldemar Rudolph, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rappahannock River, Va., <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rescript of Nazimof, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in France, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in Russia, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>–176.</li> + <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in Sweden, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rhodes, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rice, Alexander H., <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rice, A. Thorndike, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Riggs, Elisha, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ristori, Adelaide, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>River Rhine, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Riverside Park, Cambridgeport, Mass., <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Roberts, Benjamin Stone, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rome, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rosalie, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>–129, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Auber, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Castiglione, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue de là Paix, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Royale, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Honoré, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Rurik, yacht, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, original settler, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russell, Harry, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russia and the United States, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>–225.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russian Beggar, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russian Horse, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>–113, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russian Navigation Company, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russian Sleigh, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Russian Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Saint Cloud, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Gaudens, Augustus, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Germain, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Louis, Mo., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Michel Theatre, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburg, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>–118, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>–134, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>–154, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>–169, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburg and Moscow Railroad, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>Saint Thomas, island, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Samanos, Augustus, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>San Francisco, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sargent, Harry, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sayles, Henry, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Scilly Islands, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Secession of Southern States, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Serfs, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>–191.</li> + <li class='c019'>Serfs, Emancipation of, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>–203.</li> + <li class='c019'>Seward, William H., <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Shattuck, George B., <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sherman, William T., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Siberia, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Simpson, Matthew, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sixteenth Mass. Infantry, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Smith, Charles K., <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>–91.</li> + <li class='c019'>Snead, Thomas L., <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Somerset Club, Boston, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Southwell, Viscount, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Souworoff, or Suwarrow, Alexander Vasilievitch, Count Rymnikski, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Spanish Ambassador, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Spencer, Lorillard, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Springfield, Ill., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Staigg Portrait, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Staigg, Richard M., <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Stanfield, Harry, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Stevenson, Robert H., <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Stockholm, Sweden, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Straits of Dover, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Strogonoff, Count, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Suez Canal, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>–180, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>–217, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sully, Thomas, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>–128.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sultan of Turkey, Abdul-Aziz, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Sykes, George, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Synod, Holy, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>System of Government in Russia, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>–189.</li> + <li class='c002'>Talleyrand-Perigord, Charles Maurice, Prince of Benevento, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Tchudova, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Thies, Louis, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Thirteenth U. S. Infantry, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Thirty-first U. S. Infantry, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Tilsit, Peace of, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Tivoli, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Trumbull, Lyman, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Tsarskoë Selo, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Union Club, San Francisco, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Union Pacific Railroad, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>United States Treasury, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Upsala, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ural Mountains, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Venice, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Versailles, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Vesta, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Vevey, Switzerland, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Vice Roi of Egypt, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Victoria Theatre, Berlin, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Vienna, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Ville de Paris, steamship, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Virginia, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Voisin, Armand, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Volga River, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Wainwright, Charles S., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>War Department, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Warsaw, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>War with Spain, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Washburn, Elihu B., <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Washington Club, Paris, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>–38.</li> + <li class='c019'>Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Washington Heights, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Waterloo, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wayman, Bishop, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wheeling, West Virginia, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Whistler, George W., <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Whistler, James A. McN., <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>White Sea, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Willett, “Bronnie,” <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wilna, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wilson, Henry, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winans, Ross, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winans, Thomas de Kay, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winans, William Louis, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winter Palace, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winthrop, Eugene, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Winthrop, Robert, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wood, Fernando, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wordsworth, William, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Woronzoff, Prince, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wright, Frances, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wright, Joseph A., <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Wright, Smith, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li> + <li class='c002'>Yacht Club Pond, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Yacht Club Skating Ground, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li> + <li class='c019'>Young, Samuel P., <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li> +</ul> +</nav> +</main> + +<div class='pbb'> + <hr class='pb c004'> +</div> +<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'> + +<div class='chapter ph2'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + + <ul class='ul_1 c002'> + <li>Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + </li> + </ul> + +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***</div> +</body> +<!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-08-04 14:27:00 GMT --> +</html> diff --git a/79273-h/images/cover.jpg b/79273-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0ac5b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/79273-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/79273-h/images/i_018.jpg b/79273-h/images/i_018.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ad725de --- /dev/null +++ b/79273-h/images/i_018.jpg diff --git a/79273-h/images/i_019.jpg b/79273-h/images/i_019.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dee5e98 --- /dev/null +++ b/79273-h/images/i_019.jpg diff --git a/79273-h/images/i_024.jpg b/79273-h/images/i_024.jpg 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