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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***
+
+
+
+
+ RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY.
+
+
+[Illustration: Longfellow and Appleton]
+
+
+
+
+ RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY
+ AS SEEN IN 1866-’67 BY APPLETON AND LONGFELLOW, TWO YOUNG TRAVELLERS
+ FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, WHO HAD BEEN OFFICERS IN THE UNION
+ ARMY, AND A JOURNEY TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS IN 1869.
+
+
+[Illustration: An ornamental monogram of the letters "NA" enclosed
+within a decorative shield-shaped frame.]
+
+ WITH SKETCHES OF ALEXANDER II. AND ABRAHAM LINCOLN, AND EMANCIPATION IN
+ THE EMPIRE OF RUSSIA AND THE REPUBLIC OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.
+
+
+ PREPARED BY
+
+ BREVET CAPTAIN NATHAN APPLETON
+
+ AUTHOR OF
+
+ “HARVARD COLLEGE DURING THE WAR.”
+
+ BOSTON, 1904.
+
+
+ Copyright, 1904
+ BY NATHAN APPLETON.
+ (_All Rights Reserved._)
+
+
+ Press of Murray and Emery Company Boston, Massachusetts
+
+
+ TO
+
+ PRINCESS J—— G——
+
+ IN PLEASANT RECOLLECTION OF SKATING AT MOSCOW. JANUARY, 1867, THIS BOOK
+ IS DEDICATED BY
+
+ THE AUTHOR
+
+ BOSTON, 1904.
+
+
+
+
+ CONTENTS
+
+
+ CHAPTER FIRST
+ PAGE
+ Arrival in Paris and Adieu. The Yacht Alice 9
+
+ CHAPTER SECOND
+ Lincoln and Emancipation 43
+
+ CHAPTER THIRD
+ Brussels, Berlin, Königsburg, Wilna 68
+
+ CHAPTER FOURTH
+ St. Petersburg. Tsar Alexander II., Gortschakoff, Cronstadt 81
+
+ CHAPTER FIFTH
+ Moscow. The City and Environs. Trotting in Russia 100
+
+ CHAPTER SIXTH
+ St. Petersburg. The Neva. Novgorod. Poland 133
+
+ CHAPTER SEVENTH
+ Charles Appleton Longfellow 156
+
+ CHAPTER EIGHTH
+ France. Last Days of the Empire. To Russia with Gen. Banks 160
+
+ CHAPTER NINTH
+ Alexander II. and Emancipation 184
+
+ CHAPTER TENTH
+ Europe and America in 1870. Demetrius Goubareff. Russia and the
+ United States 207
+
+
+
+
+ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+ Longfellow and Appleton _Frontispiece._
+ OP. PAGE
+ Yacht Alice, Cowes, I. W., 1866 18
+ Captain, Passengers and Crew of the Alice 19
+ Rue de la Paix, à Paris 24
+ Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race 31
+ Troika 38
+ Abraham Lincoln 43
+ Wilna 68
+ Statue of Kant, Königsburg, 1866 73
+ Single Sleigh 74
+ Nevski Prospect, St. Petersburg 81
+ Hon. Cassius M. Clay, Minister to Russia 82
+ Bolshaja Morskaja (Great Sea Street) 86
+ Christmas Shopping in St. Petersburg 87
+ The Kremlin, Moscow 100
+ Drinking Tea 105
+ A Coursier 110
+ The Staigg Portrait 117
+ Rosalie 125
+ The Blessing of the Neva 133
+ The Midnight Drive 140
+ Skating in the Yousoupoff Garden 141
+ Circassian Uniform 142
+ Sledge Drawn by Reindeer 151
+ Drosky 153
+ Charles Appleton Longfellow 156
+ Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks, Representative from
+ Massachusetts 160
+ Ferdinand de Lesseps 179
+ Alexander II., 1866 184
+ Odessa, 1899 207
+ Port Said. Opening of the Suez Canal 225
+
+
+
+
+ RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER FIRST.
+ ARRIVAL IN PARIS AND ADIEU. THE YACHT ALICE.
+
+ “Our trusty friend, our true ally
+ Through varied change and chance:
+ So fill your flashing goblets high,
+ I give you, vive la France.”
+ —_Oliver Wendell Holmes._
+
+
+I sailed from New York early in October, 1866, in the French line
+steamer _Ville de Paris_, Captain Surmont. Time about eleven days to
+Brest. Cloudy weather, and the last four or five days no observation, so
+one morning we found ourselves near the Scilly Islands, and from there
+steamed over to Brest, arriving in the afternoon. I had a room with
+Frank Burgess of Boston, whom I then knew but slightly, and, as we found
+that we liked each other and had the same objects in view at Paris, we
+went there and took rooms together at the Hotel de la Paix, since torn
+down for the Place du Nouvel Opera, corner Rue de la Paix and the
+Boulevard. The month I passed there until going to Russia was one of my
+liveliest and pleasantest in Paris.
+
+The voyage across the ocean was the same old story so often and often
+described. There was the same queer medley of passengers as always, and
+they told the same stories they always do, and passed their time in the
+same old way. There was the knowing Yankee buyer, going on his hurried
+autumn business tour through Europe, who gave every one to understand
+that this was his forty-seventh voyage across the Atlantic, and that he
+knew pretty well how to take care of himself. He had been in nearly
+every steamship of every line between Europe and America, and gave
+advice freely as to their relative merits. He always could tell the
+exact position of the ship, in fog or shine, better than the Captain
+himself, and was most active in getting up, every day after lunch, pools
+on the ship’s run, after which he would rush about making his “book,”
+buying and selling tickets to increase his chances of winning.
+
+Then there was the jolly _paterfamilias_, who had been passing the last
+four months at the Fifth Avenue Hotel, looking after his investments,
+and was now returning, to join his family who were living in Paris, and
+who would gladly welcome him and his full purse. He was always around,
+and very attentive to and a great favorite with the ladies, young and
+old.
+
+There was the same group of Cubans smoking cigarettes and talking
+Spanish together with wild gesticulations, but keeping aloof from the
+other passengers. And, oh! the pretty French actress, returning for the
+winter season in Paris at the Folies Dramatiques or the Palais Royal,
+fresh from the applause and bouquets in New York, Chicago and San
+Francisco. She was dark, she was petite, she had arched eyebrows and the
+slightest touch of paint under her sparkling orbs. She never appeared on
+deck until near dinner time and then in a lovely toilette, as if she
+were just going to take a drive at the Bois. And how at the concert,
+organized a few nights before sighting the coast of _la belle_ France,
+she charmed all as she sang some of her opera bouffe songs.
+
+Of course the precocious youth was aboard, going out for the fourth time
+to see the Coliseum, and what wonderful information he imparted to such
+listeners as he could get. When the wind was aft he assured you that the
+boat was making at least fifteen knots, and that we should arrive at
+Brest in time to take the eight o’clock train for Paris; then, again,
+when the wind was dead ahead he consoled you with the thought that it
+made the fires draw well, which was a good thing; but if it struck the
+boat on either beam he could conclusively prove that the sails being
+well filled the steamer was steady in her movements, which, after all,
+was better than rolling about too fast. If it chanced to rain he cheered
+the disconsolate passengers by stating that it would help beat down the
+waves and make the sea less rough! Every day, too, he seemed to
+think,—nor did he keep this sagacious thought to himself,—lightened the
+ship of so much coal, and then as for the advantages of fogs or
+icebergs, no possible question on the subject could puzzle him.
+
+Pretty girls flitted here and there, or were spread out in their chairs
+and looked uncomfortable. “Swells” gloomily lounged around: enthusiastic
+young travellers were always on hand at everything which turned up in
+the ship’s management, especially the throwing the log and taking the
+observations, as if determined at the outset to lose none of their
+money’s worth of sight-seeing.
+
+A clever lady from Washington was always posed in a corner of the
+saloon, a half read novel in hand, her _flacon_ and fan on either side,
+and she herself happy at any time, morning, afternoon or evening, to
+enter with you into a long conversation on any subject.
+
+A French priest and a Western parson kept theology well argued as an
+appetizer for your meals, while in the smoking room the poker party was
+going on all through the voyage with scarcely an intermission.
+
+The bluff old Captain was ever about with a pleasant smile and word for
+all, inspiring those of whom he was the ten-day autocrat, with a feeling
+of security by his own solid and comfortable appearance.
+
+A system for passing the time on shipboard I found worked very well, and
+I am only too glad to recommend it to any who choose to try it for
+themselves.
+
+Take your coffee about nine in bed in your state room propped up with
+numerous pillows, then go through the operation of being shaved if the
+offices of a Figaro are required, who may be one of the ship’s stewards.
+After this a couple of hours or so may be passed in reading, and for
+this a selection of a dozen books or so you may have had placed on the
+shelf over your couch, so that you can choose any one which happens to
+suit your mood, or, scratch off your thoughts on a block of paper,
+always to be carried on your travels, thus taking down rambling notes
+where-ever you go. Rising about half an hour before lunch time, you get
+up an appetite by sniffing the sea air and chatting with those who are
+about. Next comes lunch itself, an important item in the day, which with
+its subsequent cigar or pipe can be made to dispose of nearly two hours.
+Then approaches the toughest part of the twenty-four portions into which
+day and night are subdivided, the time between lunch and dinner. A hand
+at poker or _vingt-et-un_ helps it along, a conversation with some fair
+one in that favorite spot behind the wheelhouse is a powerful auxiliary,
+and, if nothing else turns up, a lazy novel or a siesta would annihilate
+the moments until the first bell ringing gives the welcome intimation
+that the time for toilette is at hand.
+
+Dinner, with or without appetite it makes no difference for go through
+the form of remaining at table you must, would next take its regular
+place in the programme, and that and a cigar well over and digested, you
+are ready to sit down to your evening party of whist. Than this there is
+no better recreation for passing the hours after dark, and the selection
+of a good set of players at an early stage of the voyage is an important
+and not to be neglected duty. Is it not probable that the great
+Talleyrand, when he advised the young man to learn thoroughly this king
+of games at cards out of regard for his declining years, remembered with
+pleasure the hours he had thus passed in his journeys by water? So the
+evening goes along, the ladies retire, the lights are put out in the
+saloon, and the male portion of the community is free to take possession
+of the smoking room, there to sit well into the night and to recount
+story after story.
+
+It was thus we existed the ten days of our passage, making pleasant
+acquaintances in that free offhand way which gives no binding claim for
+future continuance. You meet, you take each other for what you are
+worth, you separate, it may be to see each other again some time, it may
+be never, and intimacies under such circumstances are quickly formed,
+and as quickly forgotten.
+
+Before we were well aware of it, so speedily the last days on the ocean
+flew by, all the passengers being well and overflowing with good
+spirits, the bright coast of France loomed up before our eyes in the
+distance, the green fields could almost be scented afar off, and there
+was bustle and activity in the _Ville de Paris_. Trunks were being
+brought up, and people who did not in the least care for each other were
+saying good by a dozen times.
+
+Down goes the anchor with a plunge, the quai at Brest is swarming with
+officials and idlers, all chattering like mad, the tug boat sweeps up
+before the _douane_, we step ashore, and find ourselves in France.
+
+
+ GAY, GAY PARIS.
+
+How the heart of the American beats with joy whenever he enters Paris,
+that queen city of cities, which he regards as almost a second home,
+feeling a genuine pride of possession in its beautiful monuments, its
+long avenues, its brilliant fêtes, and all its institutions of
+instruction and amusement. And cannot a probable reason why the American
+takes to it so much more than to any other foreign city,—why the asphalt
+of the boulevard is to him almost as dear as the flag-stones of
+Broadway,—be found in the fact of the _real democracy_ of the _social
+life_ in Paris and France? The government may be a despotism or a
+revolution: the annoyances of bureaucracy and red tape are nowhere
+greater than there; the petty details of business life amuse and vex
+you, but in spite of all, the social life of the people, whether natives
+or strangers, is as free as free can be, provided none of the laws of
+the land are broken. You come, you go, you do this or you do that, you
+can dine at one o’clock on beef and cabbage, or at seven on woodcock
+with truffles; you can live in a palace or a _cinquième_; you can go to
+the opera in evening dress or blouse; you can study medicine or you can
+study pleasure; you can drive in a four-in-hand or in a fiacre; you can
+do everything or nothing: whoever you are, or whatever your fortune may
+be, no one will interfere; your eccentricities will cause little remark,
+you will be unmolested, for all are too much occupied with themselves to
+pay much attention to others, and you may be certain that, do your best
+to astonish those about you, it will not be easy to offer them a new
+sensation.
+
+I had been there before,—this was my third voyage across the
+Atlantic,—and had seen the guide-book sights of the city, and
+congratulated myself heartily upon the accomplishment, for it was off my
+mind and I would be spared from doing it now.
+
+One is not likely to forget the sensations experienced during the long
+drive from the railroad station to the hotel when first arriving at
+Paris, especially if it be after dark, through the brilliantly lighted
+streets, across the great squares, full as they always are of the gayest
+hearted people in the world, with apparently nothing to do except treat
+life as a continual holiday, and I went through it again with the
+freshness of a first visit, as we were taken the distance which
+separates the _Gare de l’Ouest_ from the Grand Hotel, at which place we
+had decided to camp for the night, and leave hunting up some snug
+apartment until the morrow. The clock was just striking nine as the
+little omnibus came with a clatter and cracking of whip into the
+spacious court-yard, and after supper and a short stroll on the
+boulevard, I “turned in,” my imagination picturing in rose-colored
+dreams all we would do and see.
+
+
+ A LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Paris, October 22, 1866.
+
+ Dear Mamma:
+
+ My last note must, I think, have been rather unsatisfactory, and I
+ hasten to do amends with a longer one. The fact was that I arrived in
+ Paris at the Hotel just about half an hour before the French mail for
+ the Cunard steamer closed, and I had either to drop just one line to
+ announce my safe arrival or nothing at all. The voyage over was, like
+ all, very tedious, and we had pretty bad weather on the whole. Not
+ knowing where we were at length we ran into a light on the English
+ coast, and from there made our way down south to Brest, where I landed
+ and ran right up to Paris. I like the steamer better than the Cunard,
+ she is very fast, and is much more adapted to the comfort of a
+ gentleman, especially as there is a cozy little smoking room where you
+ could play whist in the evenings; also a barber’s shop, and the state
+ rooms are better arranged. I came up to Paris with Frank Burgess and
+ Maurice Le Ray (one of the Newport jockeys of the past summer, attaché
+ to the French legation at Washington, who was a passenger on the
+ steamer), and Burgess and I have taken some very nice rooms.
+
+ Yesterday morning Charlie Longfellow (Charles Appleton Longfellow,
+ late lieutenant in the 1st Mass. Cavalry, wounded at Mt. Hope Church,
+ Va., Nov. 27, 1863. He was the son of the poet Henry W. Longfellow,
+ who married my half-sister Frances, so was my half-nephew, a year and
+ some months younger than I), and Harry Stanfield tumbled in upon us,
+ as they had that very night come over from London, and they gave us
+ jolly accounts of the doings of the _Alice_ during the past summer.
+ Brother Tom (Thomas Gold Appleton) and Arthur Clark (Captain of the
+ _Alice_) sail for home the last of the month. Charlie likes the idea
+ of going off to Saint Petersburg by and by, so as to get there in the
+ height of the winter, which time they say is really the best to see
+ the place, but he wants to stay here a while to brush up his French.
+ So I think I shall be quartered in Paris for some little time, perhaps
+ a month, and pitch right into the study of French, and then start off
+ with him for the cold regions of Europe.
+
+ Tuesday: After writing thus much yesterday I went round to the bank
+ (Bowles, Drevet & Cie at that time 24 Rue de la Paix) where I found
+ your letter awaiting me, and I must say that considering you had only
+ two or three days you have managed to pick up a vast amount of
+ interesting items. The first Bostonian I met was Hollis Hunnewell. I
+ have seen my classmates (at Harvard) (Charles C.) Jackson and (Frank
+ L.) Higginson, and yesterday I called on the Harry Sargents. The
+ weather is charming now, just right for driving about, and I hope it
+ will continue so for a month, when we ought to expect the drizzly
+ rains which will drive me off. There are so many from the “Hub” here
+ now that Brother Tom’s last _bon mot_ is said to be “All Parisians are
+ Bostonians.”
+
+ Au revoir.
+
+ Nate.
+
+
+ THE YACHT ALICE.
+
+The sloop yacht _Alice_ was owned by Thomas Gold Appleton. She was about
+fifty feet in length and was built by Townsend at Portsmouth, R. I., in
+1866. When last heard from she was a trader off the coast of Maine.
+
+The _Alice_ left Nahant July 12, 1866, arrived at the Needles July 30th,
+and Cowes Roads July 31st. It was a remarkable trip and faster than that
+of any kind of vessel made across the Atlantic ocean with the then time
+allowance.
+
+Captain Arthur H. Clark was in command, and she carried Charles A.
+Longfellow, the owner’s nephew, Harry Stanfield, a crew of three men and
+a Chinese steward. The owner, then fifty-four years old, crossed in the
+Cunarder _China_, and, joining the _Alice_ at Cowes, cruised off the
+French coast and the Channel islands, see _A Cruise of the Alice_ in _A
+Sheaf of Papers_, by T. G. Appleton, 1875.
+
+One of the first business despatches sent by the cable across the
+Atlantic, the _Great Eastern_ having successfully landed the cable at
+Newfoundland on July 27, 1866, was the safe arrival of the _Alice_, by
+C. A. Longfellow.
+
+The owner thus addresses the beautiful yacht in his collection of poems
+called _Faded Leaves_:
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ YACHT ALICE.
+]
+
+ “Away! the cloven waves unite
+ Behind in murmuring braids of snow,
+ And seething whispers of delight,
+ As through the glassy fields we go;
+ And curtseying with a grace her own
+ Her bows of beauty in reply,
+ The white-winged creature moves alone,
+ Swan-like between the wave and sky.
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ Farewell, dear friend, my floating home;
+ A menacing finger in the sky
+ Bids us through summer seas to roam
+ No more, and from harsh winters fly.
+ Sleep! dreaming of the violet deep,
+ And think of us and happy hours,
+ While we through icy nights shall keep
+ Thoughts of the sails that once were ours.”
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ CAPTAIN, PASSENGERS AND CREW OF THE ALICE.
+]
+
+The yacht wintered at Cowes and was brought back the next spring.
+
+
+ FROM BROTHER TOM IN LONDON.
+
+ Many thanks, my dear Naty, for your letter and the one enclosed. I
+ would have been sorry to have missed it, as it is from an old friend,
+ and in peculiar circumstances, and it would not have been well to have
+ the letter go astray. And thanks for yours, too, though only
+ announcing your arrival, and a sketch of your plans. You will do well
+ to take Charlie and Harry if they will go, and in the winter Saint
+ Petersburg must be fine, though after all not much beyond in cold
+ splendor dear old Boston. I am reading a new book on Russia, by Henry
+ Morley, and find much in it interesting. Today is so dark no one is
+ up, and I am writing alone.... Who should be here but Townsend, my
+ boat builder. He could not be quiet, hearing so much of the _Alice_.
+ Tell Charlie he has gone to Cowes. Don’t you wish you loved yachting,
+ and could have had the nice time we have had? It beats fancy wagons
+ and top boots, I assure you.
+
+ Remember me to Charlie and Harry and bid them take care and be prudent
+ and get into no scrapes.
+
+ Farewell and prosper, and do not leave your whiskers in the snows of
+ Russia.
+
+ Yr. aff. brother, T. G. Appleton.
+
+ Charing X Hotel, 25th October.
+
+To my mother I wrote again from Paris, October 26, 1866, Friday:—
+
+ I give you a short letter now which will make two for this week,
+ enough certainly to satisfy the most rapacious of mothers! I have got
+ pretty well settled into my life here now, of which one very important
+ object is the study of French. I take a lesson every morning from a
+ very good teacher, and go to a theatre most every evening, and I think
+ I shall make rapid progress, in fact, as we ought to know a good deal
+ before starting for Russia, it is advantageous to stay here a month
+ and pitch into it. I have got quite a nice little French phaeton, with
+ which I can rattle about the town, and drive up to the Bois in the
+ afternoon, and the great difficulty is to find a decent horse to hire;
+ my own at home being so very superior my taste has been quite ruined.
+ I saw all the Imperial cortège out yesterday driving, but I think they
+ all go to Compiègne soon, so that the season won’t begin here for some
+ time.
+
+ General de Trobriand is here, and I handed him his commission, whereat
+ he was in great doubt whether to go home or no. He wants to accept the
+ commission of colonel of the 31st Infantry U. S. A. Let me know
+ anything you would like to have me get you in Paris. I can easily find
+ time to get it. Exchange is so different from when I was here before
+ (On leave of absence on account of wound during the war.) that one can
+ well be extravagant.
+
+ Nathan.
+
+
+ GENERAL DE TROBRIAND.
+
+ General de Trobriand, author of _Quatre ans de campagnes à l’armée du
+ Potomac_ (_Four Years in the Army of the Potomac_) 1867, Paris,
+ Bruxelles, (translated) whose full name is Philippe Regis Denis de
+ Kerodem, Baron de Trobriand, was born near Tours, France, June 4,
+ 1816. In the United States he was known as Philippe Regis de
+ Trobriand. From 1849 to 1861, in New York, he was editorially
+ connected with first the _Revue de Nouveau Monde_, of which he was
+ publisher, and then the _Courrier des Etats Unis_, as associate
+ editor. In August, 1861, he was placed in command of the 55th New York
+ Regiment, U. S. V. of the Third Corps, promoted to Brigadier General
+ in January, 1864, and from May to June of that year had charge of the
+ defenses of New York City. He was brevetted Major General U. S. V.
+ April 9, 1865, and was in command of a Division at Lee’s surrender. In
+ 1867, he was made colonel in the Regular army and placed in command of
+ the 31st Regt. U. S. Infantry, brevetted Brigadier General in the same
+ year, commanding the district of Dakota, and in 1869, was transferred
+ to the district of Montana and the colonelcy of the 13th U. S.
+ Infantry. Later he was ordered to Green River.
+
+ I visited him at Camp Douglas, near Salt Lake City, in October, 1870,
+ and had a good opportunity of observing western army life and the
+ institution of Mormonism. The camp was prettily placed on the slope of
+ a hill, with quarters comfortably arranged. Several of the officers
+ had their wives with them which made quite a little society. I stayed
+ in the General’s house and had a horse at my disposal whenever I
+ wanted to take a ride, and so I explored some of the picturesque and
+ grand scenery of the neighborhood with the snow capped mountains quite
+ near. To go into the city we generally took the headquarters wagon and
+ did the thing in style.
+
+ General de Trobriand was the father-in-law of my friend and classmate
+ Albert Kintzing Post, so naturally our relations were most friendly,
+ and I have often met him on both sides of the ocean. He was in New
+ Orleans in 1875, during the reconstruction period, after he retired
+ from service on account of age, having been stationed there for some
+ years.
+
+ In 1885, during the Cotton Exposition I lunched with him at his house
+ in New Orleans, and met him and some friends one day at the grounds,
+ where we strolled about, and had a picnic repast under the trees. In
+ 1887, at Paris I saw him again. It was in the summer, and at my
+ suggestion he joined the “Franco-American,” known first as the
+ “Washington,” Club, and he enjoyed dining there at the _table d’hôte_
+ with agreeable companions.
+
+ The General came on to Class Day at Harvard, to hear the poem
+ delivered by his grandson Waldron Kintzing Post, the son of my old
+ classmate, when he graduated in June, 1890, to attend the “spread” and
+ other festivities, and then one evening we had a little family dinner
+ at the Somerset Club. After passing a few days at the “Masconomo,”
+ Manchester-by-the-Sea, with his daughter and her family, he went to
+ the Reunion of the Society of the Army of the Potomac, at Portland,
+ Maine, July 3d and 4th, where he was enthusiastically received by the
+ comrades of his old Corps the Third, and elected vice president of the
+ Society to represent the Third Corps, Army of the Potomac. At that
+ meeting I was elected a vice president in behalf of the Fifth Corps,
+ it being the custom to elect every year, in addition to the president,
+ vice presidents and other officers of the society, a vice president
+ from each army corps that was in the Army of the Potomac.
+
+ My last meeting with General de Trobriand was at the wedding of his
+ grand daughter Lina Beatrice Post to Hamilton Fish Webster, at the
+ Long Island summer home of the Posts. This was the autumn of 1891, and
+ a pretty wedding it was in the little church, and a breakfast later
+ under a large marquee. Of the grandparents of the young couple present
+ at the wedding, besides General de Trobriand, there were Mrs. Armand
+ de Macarty, grandmother of the bride, and the Hon. Hamilton Fish,
+ grandfather of the groom.
+
+ General de Trobriand died at the home of his daughter in Bayport, Long
+ Island, July 15, 1897.
+
+
+ TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Hotel de la Paix, Paris,
+ October 31, 1866.
+
+ My dear Mamma:
+
+I have been calling on several of our good old Boston citizens, but have
+not found many of them at home. I went to the Louvre the other day, and
+found that lots of new galleries had been added, with all my friends of
+the French school put together, and I reveled in Watteau, Boucher, and
+Fragonard. I do not do much sight-seeing, and don’t care to, but
+tomorrow I am going out to Versailles with a party of ladies to finish
+up the chateau. This afternoon Charlie Longfellow goes with me driving
+in the Bois. Yesterday evening Charlie, Stanfield and Burgess and I went
+to the “Lyrique” and saw Faust very well put upon the stage. It was the
+first time I had ever seen or heard the opera, and I thought it very
+fine. Charlie and I shall start off for Russia probably in the course of
+a month, as we are not in any hurry and we are to find out about what
+will be the best season to be there and then hit it. Charlie is studying
+his French very industriously, and oddly enough he has tumbled into the
+very same rooms that Erny (His brother Ernest Longfellow.) had a year
+ago. I got a letter from brother Tom at London, a few days before he
+sailed. He seemed in good spirits over the triumphs of the _Alice_.
+
+Friday Morn: Yesterday I had a very good though somewhat fatiguing day
+at Versailles, and I should have enjoyed the pictures very much if I
+could see them by degrees; but there are so many millions that one
+glance at them was all you could get. Some of those illustrating the
+wars of the present emperor in the Crimea, Italy and Algeria, are very
+fine. We had a young French “swell” to chaperon us, and of course saw
+all the best things, such as the private apartments of the Louis’ and
+Marie Antoinette. I visited with Charlie, on Wednesday, Jerome
+Napoleon’s Pompeiian villa, which is now a concert room and well repays
+a visit. I don’t think the Pompeiian magnates themselves had anything
+quite up to it. Charlie and H. Stanfield still keep up their yachting
+fever and go to Asniéres on the Seine quite near Paris, and sail in a
+small yacht which some French count whom they met at Dieppe, has placed
+at their disposition. The de Trobriands leave for Brest in a few days,
+to pass the winter there as the General wishes quiet to finish his book
+before rejoining the army.
+
+
+ LATER: RESOLVE IN FAVOR OF ST. PETERSBURG.
+
+Here I am at my desk, having finished my French lessons, and having
+written a long business letter, to find something to put upon paper in
+reply to “No. 3.”
+
+The Boulevard and the Rue de la Paix with the Grand Opera and the Grand
+Hotel are just opposite, and below in the streets there is a continual
+excitement of passing objects; vehicles and pedestrians, soldiers and
+beggars, but principally Americans. There is always so much going on all
+around, that our apartment is not, perhaps, the best adapted for the
+quiet pursuit of literature. You see I am still in Paris, and perhaps
+you wonder whether I mean to leave at all. Know then that Charlie and I
+have made a vigorous resolution to pack up and be off the 25th of this
+month, stopping at Brussels, Berlin, Königsberg on the Baltic, and
+Wilna, to Saint Petersburg, and then Moscow, thus seeing the real winter
+life of the Russians. I think it will be a plendid trip. From Moscow we
+may go to Odessa, etc., but this is very doubtful, and we shall probably
+return viâ Warsaw to Dresden, where we separate—I for Vienna, and he
+back to Paris.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ RUE DE LA PAIX À PARIS
+]
+
+ A REVIEW BY NAPOLEON III.
+
+ Thursday Eve: A few days ago, Charlie Jackson drove out with me to
+ Longchamps, where the Emperor had quite a large review of the troops
+ around Paris. There were, perhaps, fifteen thousand troops there, and
+ as it was the first thing of the kind I had seen in Europe, it was
+ very interesting and imposing, and brought back something of the old
+ military ardor. The Emperor and Prince were there, but Napoleon looked
+ rather shakey. He is no longer young.
+
+ I saw Mr. T. B. Curtis for a few minutes yesterday and thought he was
+ seeming quite well after his sickness. He told me particularly to “go
+ it, while” I was “young,” adding that he “had had his time.” His
+ advice is certainty good. At the American chapel last Sunday were
+ crowds and crowds of people, but very, very few whom I recognized. The
+ same day Robert H. Stevenson and I went to the last races of the
+ season, and saw a very fair steeple chase, but as it was some ways out
+ of Paris there were not many there.
+
+
+ A LETTER FROM MY MOTHER.
+
+My mother in Boston wrote me in Paris, Nov. 11, 1866,—... “And Charlie
+Longfellow is in Paris! All that is left in Boston will soon find its
+way there. I had a very pleasant visit from your brother Tom last
+evening, telling me of the _Alice_, and of all his doings. Ristori
+(tragedienne) has reigned supreme here for two weeks, and everybody has
+cried to their satisfaction. I did not dare to see her for I felt that I
+should not sleep for a month after it.”
+
+
+ ADELAIDE RISTORI.
+
+ I first saw Adelaide Ristori, mentioned in my mother’s letter, at the
+ theatre at Havana, in Medea, when I was there in February, 1868, and I
+ met her and her daughter Bianca at a reception given at the hotel.
+ Later, in the summer of 1884, at Paris, I was taken to her apartment
+ by Mr. Henry F. Gillig, president of the American Exchange in Europe,
+ and saw her and her husband the Marquis Giuliano Capranica del Grillo,
+ just as they were preparing to leave the city for their trip to
+ America. I remember that the rooms were encumbered with their baggage,
+ which was in every stage of packing for their departure. The following
+ winter 1884–5, when I was living at the Vendome Hotel, Boston, I
+ called upon them at the Tremont House, and introduced to them Mr. C.
+ C. Perkins, one of our citizens most prominent in music, art,
+ literature, etc., who was very desirous of meeting the great
+ tragedienne. He chatted with her in her native language, as he had
+ long resided in Italy, and had written several books when there.
+
+
+ LA DIVA, CAFÉ NAPOLITAINE.
+ TO MY MOTHER FROM PARIS, NOV. 15, 1866.
+
+Charlie dropped in yesterday just before dinner, and we decided to start
+on the 24th, 25th, or 26th, for Brussels, and then have a look at
+Waterloo; thence to Berlin to buy fur coats, and so to Russia. Went to
+the Italian opera last night and heard “Crispino e la Camare” (“The
+Cobbler and the Fairy.”) sung by dear little Patti. She has improved
+much since I saw her two or three years ago in America, and quite
+captivated me. I should make her acquaintance if I was to remain long,
+as she prides herself on being American, and goes to Mrs. John Bigelow’s
+soirées. At the Café Napolitaine later a crowd of Boston men tumbled in.
+It is our favorite resort for smoking our nocturnal cigar,—George Weld,
+Ned Johnson, Bob Stevenson, and others. The great talk is the winter
+ocean race between three of the New York Club yachts, the _Henrietta_
+(owned by James Gordon Bennett, Jr.), _Fleetwing_, and _Vesta_. (The
+_Henrietta_ with her owner on board won the race.) In that case the
+_Alice_ will have to be put afloat again. Well, adieu for a week, and
+then my last from Paris.
+
+ Nathan.
+
+Adelina Patti, now (1904) Baroness Cederstrom, was in Boston in 1885,
+and I happened to be introduced to her early in that year when I was
+living at the Vendome. She was with her second husband, Nicolini.
+
+
+ THE NEW YORK YACHT CLUB.
+
+ May 17, 1866, I was notified that at a meeting held that day I was
+ admitted a member of the New York Yacht Club. The yacht _Henrietta_,
+ owned by James Gordon Bennett Jr., belonged to the squadron. Bennett’s
+ colors were a blue diamond and a red crescent on white ribbons.
+
+ I once had the pleasure of calling upon Mr. James Gordon Bennett
+ Senior. It was one Sunday morning, in the spring of 1872, when I was
+ on a visit to America. I was strolling up Fifth Avenue with Mr.
+ Leonard W. Jerome. As we came to Mr. Bennett’s house on the corner of
+ 38th street, he proposed that we should go in and pay a visit to the
+ old gentleman, who was then very infirm and evidently destined not
+ long to live. I was delighted at the opportunity of seeing him, for
+ although I had stayed with his son at their fine place at Washington
+ Heights, and often dined at the city mansion, I had never been able to
+ be introduced to the father, as he was quite unwell, and generally
+ confined to his room.
+
+ We were shown up stairs to a small study, where Mr. Bennett was seated
+ in a comfortable easy chair, in a loose dressing gown, with a quantity
+ of the daily newspapers lying around him. We sat there conversing with
+ him some time, and I remember his speaking of the proposed plan of
+ rapid transit for New York, and how he had, years before, advocated
+ the idea in his paper, the New York _Herald_. He spoke very strongly
+ of the future growth of the city. It was only a few months after I saw
+ him that he died.
+
+
+ THE FOUR-IN-HAND CLUB.
+
+ Near Mr. Bennett’s place at Washington Heights and the Hudson River
+ the Four-in Hand Club had a house for several years. I remember
+ driving there for a ball the autumn of 1870, with Colonel William Jay
+ and a party of ladies, and then returning through some of the
+ unfinished roads, nearly upsetting on the way. The Club was started,
+ as far as I can remember in 1866. I was elected a member January 20th
+ of that year; the idea of membership being any one who had a
+ “four-in-hand,” “spike,” or “unicorn,”—three horses, two in the pole
+ and one on the lead,—“tandem,” i. e. something different from the
+ ordinary single horse or pair hitch. I had a tandem at the time. The
+ president was George Griswold Gray, whom I had known at Newport. The
+ Club came to an end, but I cannot say what year. The Coaching or
+ Four-in-Hand Club of New York has taken its place.
+
+
+ JAMES GORDON BENNETT, JR.
+
+ My first recollection of meeting Mr. James Gordon Bennett Jr., was on
+ the deck of his yacht _Henrietta_, at the spring meeting of the New
+ York Yacht Club, June 19, 1866.
+
+ I had been the guest, on his yacht, of Commodore McVickar (W. H.
+ McVickar, one of the incorporators of the New York Yacht Club and its
+ commodore in 1866. He died in New York, Nov. 25, 1896, aged 78.) when
+ Mr. William C. Otis was fleet captain, and some time during the
+ afternoon we paid a call upon the young captain of the _Henrietta_.
+ This was in the harbor of New York, and a very pretty scene it was.
+ Later on, i. e. during the summer of 1870, on my return from Europe,
+ where I had often seen Mr. Bennett in Paris at the Washington Club, he
+ invited me to join a party on his new yacht the _Dauntless_ at New
+ London, and make the cruise from there to Newport, which I did.
+
+ We were a jolly party,—Lawrence Jerome, Harry Stanfield, A. W.
+ Knapp and others. With reference to James Gordon Bennett Jr., in a
+ letter from Newport to the Boston _Globe_ in August 1876, I
+ remarked:—“Newport certainly owes a great deal this year to the
+ enterprise of Mr. James Gordon Bennett, in introducing the games
+ of polo and la crosse, for the afternoon reunions at the polo
+ grounds have become one of the most delightful features of the
+ life here this summer, and Mr. Bennett has proved himself to be as
+ much at home astride of his pony, as he was not many years ago on
+ the deck of his yacht, when he gallantly offered his services to
+ the government during the civil war, (He was with the blockading
+ fleet in his yacht from 1861 to 1865.) or when he pluckily scudded
+ across the Atlantic in mid-winter for the great ocean race.”
+
+ In 1881 and 1882, I remember dining at his house, the old Brooks
+ greystone mansion on Bellevue Avenue, Newport, where he entertained
+ with generous hospitality, as also, at his New York home, Fifth Avenue
+ corner of 38th street. He had a fine, old fashioned family butler, who
+ seemed to take delight in looking after the comfort of his friends and
+ guests. The last time I was in the New York house was at lunch with
+ the Austin Corbins, who had then rented and afterwards purchased it.
+ This was in 1886. Austin Corbin, financier and philanthropist was
+ killed by being thrown from his carriage at his country place at
+ Newport, N. H., in June, 1896, aged 69.
+
+ In Paris too, I would occasionally meet Mr. Bennett, and he generally
+ made some enquiry about the Panama Canal.
+
+
+ POLO AND HORSE-RACING.
+
+What I have seen both of polo and horse-racing has made me consider them
+both, if not actually cruel sports for horses, at least those in which a
+great deal of unnecessary hard treatment is inflicted upon the poor
+animals who try to do their best. In polo they seem to be jerked about
+indiscriminately, and whacked over the head and body by the polo
+mallets. In running races the use of the whip and spur is often an
+abomination. I have seen a horse straining his utmost and at the same
+time receiving the cruel blows of the whip in a way which might
+naturally discourage him from making his best efforts, but which in
+addition to this, by cramping his nerves and muscles, must actually keep
+him back instead of leading him on. Often, too, this is done to some
+horse so far behind that he can have no chance of winning the race. I
+believe horses are frequently demoralized and even made vicious from the
+senseless and inhuman treatment they receive. To get the best out of a
+horse you have only to encourage, not discourage him. He understands
+more than we give him credit for.
+
+My only experience as the owner of a race horse was during the spring of
+1866, when I had bought a very pretty and graceful little animal, which
+had the name of “Carolina Filly.” She had been secured after the war by
+General Joseph J. Bartlett, who sold her to Mr. George W. Weld, from
+whom I bought her. She ran under my colors, blue and silver, once at
+Clyde Park, now the Country Club, but was not victorious.
+
+
+ RACES ON THE NEWPORT BEACH.
+
+At 4.30 p. m. on the 30th of August, 1866, there was a flat race and
+steeple chase at Newport, at which 13 horses were entered, and an
+account of which appeared in the local press, as follows:—
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ GENTLEMEN RIDERS OF THE NEWPORT RACE
+]
+
+ Newport has really had another sensation, in fact has been convulsed
+ to its “head” centre. (Allusion to Fenianism then very rampant.) Yes,
+ the old town has been startled by the spectacle of no less a modern
+ invention than a hurdle race!
+
+ “Is Saratoga to do all the racing?” muttered the Newport Jockey Club,
+ “Are there not greener laurels to be gathered in other fields? We have
+ no track it is true, yet we can make tracks. Our horses have not
+ received a university education, but what of that? _We_ have. We will
+ show them how to surmount difficulties. We will be our own jockeys,
+ and risk our own gentlemanly lives. It shall be neck or nothing.”
+
+ So it was settled there should be a race, and for the past week
+ Fashion has talked itself eloquent over the matter of hurdles. On
+ Thursday the excitement culminated when Easton’s Beach, where Channing
+ once drew inspiration, and where since, the lesser mortals have “drawn
+ their slow length along” in the moist costume of the sea, found itself
+ transformed into a race course, and its classic sands desecrated by
+ the presence of hurdles!
+
+ One great charm of the affair was to be its selectness. Only you and I
+ and our dear five hundred friends were to know anything about it. It
+ was to be a _bonne bouche_ for our private eating. Yet, strange to
+ say, five hundred people never can keep a secret, and the little
+ family party turned out to be the largest concourse of bipeds and
+ quadrupeds that Newport has seen for many a day. Fashion glittered and
+ shone, respectable elderly parties fairly thrilled with excitement.
+ Newport rich and Newport poor, stood side by side in every species of
+ vehicle, from barouche to butcher’s wagon. (There were about 7000
+ spectators and 500 carriages.) The way in which most of the horses
+ shied around the hurdles, bolted and did everything but go over them,
+ was delectable. Yet, let not the Jockey Club be disparaged.
+ Considering the circumstances its gallant members covered themselves
+ with glory,—a few of them were additionally covered with something of
+ a more clinging nature. One daring rider (Nathan Appleton) landed on
+ his head, another (Prince Ourousoff) mingled himself with the sands of
+ the sea, but all lived to tell the short but moving tale, and the
+ winner (Baron de Mesnil of Belgium) lived to receive a silver cup from
+ the hands of the lady (Mrs. Paran Stevens) who had been most actively
+ interested in the day’s sport. Thus does beauty reward the brave. In
+ honor of the _fait accompli_ the Jockey Club will give a fête the
+ beginning of next week. (Captain Harry Russell of Narragansett Avenue
+ was declared winner of the second race, which was a steeple chase, the
+ first one having been over a flat course of beach.) Pursuant to this
+ announcement cards were issued by the Gentlemen Riders of the Newport
+ Race, inviting their friends to the Jockeys’ Ball on Monday, September
+ 3d, 1866, at the Academy of Music.
+
+
+ TEN YEARS LATER. A RETROSPECT.
+
+Speaking of horse races in a letter from Newport to the Boston _Globe_,
+under date of August 26, 1876, I called to mind the events of ten years
+previous:—
+
+ “We have only to look up the records of ten years ago, and we will
+ find that then at least, perhaps even long before, they had taken
+ place. Ah! It was a brilliant season, that of 1866. We were a jolly
+ crowd, representing the _jeunesse dorée_ of many nations. There was a
+ young Russian Prince, several Frenchmen,—one representative of the old
+ _noblesse_ and another of the Napoleonic regime,—a sturdy Belgian, and
+ plenty of Americans, some fresh from the excitement of the war a year
+ before. And we had races on the beach when many were the mishaps that
+ befell the riders. One of them, needless to say who, had a
+ hard-mouthed horse which he could not control, and so, near the
+ finish, rushing up among the assembled crowd of carriages he
+ distinguished himself by leaping clear over a pony-phaeton, in which
+ were two young ladies, and then depositing himself half-stunned in the
+ sand. The account of this may be found in the old files of the Newport
+ _News_ but a better souvenir of it still remains for those who took
+ part, in the shape of a colored print now in the Country Club in
+ Brookline, which was published by one of the riders, an Irish
+ nobleman, Viscount Southwell, from his own sketch, in which he gives a
+ fanciful representation of the great race for a cup presented by Mrs.
+ Paran Stevens, the lady who then, as now (1876) presided so graciously
+ over many of Newport’s hospitalities and festivities, and whose
+ charming villa could tell many a tale of ‘vanished summer glory.’”
+
+
+ THE RACE AT NEWPORT.
+
+The colored print of the race in the Country Club, by Viscount
+Southwell, represents the race as if it was on the turf instead of the
+sands of the beach, as was actually the case, but this was to make it
+more natural, as it was the only kind of race to which he was
+accustomed. In fact racing on the beach was a new departure, and I have
+heard it stated that this was the first one with “gentlemen riders”
+which had ever occurred, in the Northern States at least. He brought in
+on the slope of the hill leading down to the beach, the coach and
+four-in-hand of Hon. August Belmont, who had at that time the most
+correct equipages to be found in our country. Mr. Belmont in those days
+drove occasionally “en daumont,” i.e. four horses attached to an open
+barouche with _postillons_ dressed for summer in jackets, top boots and
+tall white hats, as you see them in Europe.
+
+Mr. G. G. Gray would at times bring out his open break with five horses,
+three at the wheel, then two, and one on the lead, a very fanciful and
+effective rig. I must not forget that at the Country Club there is also
+a satin programme of the race, with the names of the horses, their
+owners and riders, contributed by some other person. It makes the affair
+complete, and it is a valuable relic of those old days of gayety.
+
+In the summer of 1882, Mr. Ely Goddard had some marvellous turnouts. He
+had a fancy for horses of bay and white, like those you see in the
+circus, and often call “wishing horses,” and managed to drive them
+four-in-hand, unicorn, three abreast, tandem, a pair, or even one alone.
+It was really remarkable how he could find so many of these variegated
+animals to serve his purpose.
+
+
+ THE WASHINGTON CLUB.
+
+As far as I can remember, the Washington Club in Paris, to which I refer
+in my recollections of James Gordon Bennett Jr., was started in the
+winter of 1868 and ’69, the idea being to have it a purely American
+club, on the same principles as those in the United States. I was not
+one of the incorporators, but joined it shortly after it was organized,
+and May 8, 1869, was elected one of the board of direction.
+
+I hardly know what to say of the Washington Club, so many souvenirs does
+it now recall. Mr. Willett, always known as “Bronnie” Willett, was the
+first secretary, and I succeeded him in the first year, 1869, and
+continued until 1872. Mr. W. Pembroke Fetridge and I were the two most
+active persons in bringing Americans there, and having them join as
+temporary or permanent members.
+
+While I held the position of secretary I kept the records very
+carefully, and one of the notes regarding membership I have now in my
+scrapbook from the pen of Mr. A. J. Drexel, of the banking house of
+Drexel, Harjes & Co.:—
+
+ 3 Rue Scribe, Paris.
+ January 4, 1869
+
+ My dear Sir.
+
+ I am in receipt of the notification of my election to the “Washington
+ Club.”
+
+ After authorizing Mr. Bowles to propose my name, upon reflecting that
+ my stay here would be so short that it would be of no use to me to
+ join, I concluded to ask him when I saw him again, not to do so, and
+ therefore prefer declining to become a member, altho’ the Club has my
+ hearty sympathy.
+
+ Wishing, however, that one of our firm should become a member, I beg
+ of you to propose the name of our Mr. Eugene Winthrop in my place.
+ Hoping this substitution will be satisfactory to you
+
+ I remain very truly yours,
+ A. J. Drexel.
+
+ N. Appleton, Esq.
+
+The first apartment the Washington Club occupied was a good suite of
+rooms, well adapted to its uses at that time, belonging to Dr. Thomas W.
+Evans in the Rue Auber, which he offered to the Club free of rent. They
+were, however, too high up, on the third floor, and not quite large
+enough, and during the summer of 1869, it was decided to take an
+apartment at the corner of the old Rue de la Paix, by the opening, or
+rather the beginning of the Avenue de l’Opera, diagonally across from
+the Grand Hotel, the first floor over the _entresol_.
+
+When I returned from Egypt and the opening of the Suez Canal, I wrote my
+sister in Boston, December 19th, 1869, “We Americans have just got into
+our new club rooms on the corner of the Boulevard, what was formerly the
+Rue de la Paix (Now Place de l’Opera), and a new street cut through to
+the Bourse. It is the finest situation in Paris, and we are in a most
+prosperous state, and begin to wonder how we ever got on without a club
+before.”
+
+It soon became popular in the American colony, and a rendezvous for the
+transient travellers.
+
+Mr. Lorillard Spencer was the president, and Mr. J. F. Loubat the
+treasurer. I have preserved the receipt of my payment of 500 francs for
+membership. It is number 7, dated May 28, 1869, and signed by J. F.
+Loubat, who at the present time (1904) is le Duc de Loubat, a title he
+received from the Pope.
+
+In New York, on September 28, 1873, he presented to me his book entitled
+“Narrative of the Mission to Russia in 1866, of the Hon. Gustavus Vasa
+Fox, Assistant Secretary of the Navy. From the Journal and Notes of J.
+F. Loubat.”
+
+Mr. Wm. Pembroke Fetridge, Mr. Alfred Lockwood, Mr. de la Chaise, Dr.
+“Tom” Pratt, Mr. Sheppard, Armand Voisin, the Lorillards, George and
+Louis, Elisha Riggs, John Garcia and Augustus Samanos, both Cubans,
+Lloyd Phœnix, James Gordon Bennett, and others, were active members of
+the Club. Indeed the membership included many noted and rich Americans,
+with the Minister, Consul General, and other officials of the U. S.
+Government, as honorary members.
+
+At that time there was no restaurant, but reading and card rooms, a
+billiard table and bar, and plenty of American newspapers.
+
+The rooms extended around the corner of the Boulevard des Italiens. When
+I returned to Paris about a week or ten days after the collapse of the
+Commune, in May, 1871, I was one of the first to look in upon the old
+club, and it was in many respects a scene of desolation.
+
+The Versailles troops who came down the Rue Auber, found it right in
+their line of shooting, as they attacked the Communists, and many were
+the broken windows and glasses in the different rooms.
+
+I picked up a lot of bullets, or found them in the walls, and, knowing
+how soon they would be lost or disappear, had them neatly arranged in a
+case under glass, to preserve them, an interesting relic of the Commune.
+
+Several of us members of the club met there one afternoon, and were
+endeavoring in various ways to be reasonably gay under the
+circumstances, when one who was by his family partly related to France
+appeared, and thought it was all wrong for us to be so light-hearted in
+the day of France’s trouble. We said, on the contrary, that we thought
+we ought all to make the best of the situation, and so help retrieve the
+sadness of the past, and so we did.
+
+The club still exists, and we old members have been given the privilege
+of life membership, so that we can avail ourselves of its rooms whenever
+we may happen to be in Paris. This adds much to the comfort of a sojourn
+there, as the table d’hôte breakfast at twelve, and dinner at seven,
+were as good as any to be had in Paris, while the view from the balcony
+is a perpetual delight.
+
+I have often been there since, but the club name has been changed to
+that of “Le Cercle Franco-Américain,” so as to admit persons of various
+nationalities.
+
+An interesting album of portraits of the prominent members, painted by
+Mr. Armand Dumaresq, was one of its attractions when I was there in
+1887. Mine was very good, and under my name I had written “le Champion
+de Panama.”
+
+The autumn of 1894, part of September, all of October, and part of
+November, I passed in Paris, to find out what the new Panama Canal
+Company proposed to do, and also to place the bronze marker of the
+Society of the Sons of the American Revolution by the grave of Lafayette
+in Picpus Cemetery, Paris. While there I noticed the apartment of the
+Franco-American Club was closed, and was told how it happened to be so,
+but that the members could go to the “Cercle des Capucines” nearly
+opposite, on the other side of the boulevard of that name. I went there
+one afternoon, and sent up my card, and was cordially received by my old
+friend, William Pembroke Fetridge, Lynch, Davis, and others, and
+Fetridge invited me to dine with some of them which I did.
+
+
+ FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 1866.
+
+“I have received this last week your nice letter of October 30. I read
+it to Longfellow, and he was pleased to hear so much of Charlie. He
+says, ‘Do caution the boys to guard their ears and noses in going to
+Russia. They are frozen before one is aware of it, and once thoroughly
+chilled you never recover from the effects.’
+
+Monday evening: I have been to Cambridge again today. Your ‘Brother
+Henry’ (Longfellow) has seen a Russian gentleman who tells him November
+is too early in the season to go there.”
+
+
+ TO MY MOTHER FROM PARIS, NOVEMBER 21, 1866.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ TROIKA.
+]
+
+This is my last from Paris for some time. I tear myself from the
+distractions and gayeties, from the Bois and the dance, to meet the
+frantic embrace of the Russian bear. I am quite crazy about the St.
+Petersburg trip, my anticipations are so high, and we long so to be off,
+and every night I fall asleep dreaming of driving troikas with three
+horses about the streets of St. Petersburg and Moscow, skating the
+American touch on the Neva, endless flirtations with Russian Princesses
+and Polish Countesses in the salons and boudoirs of St. Petersburg. All
+this, too, is a _terra incognita_, and our life is not all cut and dried
+for us, as in Rome or Paris. My plan is this,—to pass the winter just
+where it will be agreeable, St. P., Moscow, or Vienna, or perhaps a trip
+to Greece and Constantinople, with the Carnival in Venice, but
+_certainly_ return to Paris in April for the Exposition, and London for
+the season, and then to America early in the summer. However, if you
+want me to come, if you feel nervous or unwell, don’t hesitate a moment
+to write me, and I can easily and without regret turn about. On
+Saturday, at five, I leave Burgess alone, much to his regret, and
+Charlie and self go to Brussels, where we arrive just exactly in time
+for the “revelry by night,” a peep at Waterloo, if not too cold, and
+then on to Berlin to congratulate Bismarck on the state of Europe,
+through Poland to Russia, a journey of a few days only. You will be
+pleased to know that I have not yet lost your little package for Eliza
+Carnatz, and I doubt not that it will reach her in safety. On Friday I
+dine at the T. B. Curtis’s, and on Wednesday with Weld and a lot of men
+at “Philippe’s.” Have you ever heard about my horses, if they are well?
+I trust they will do the winter comfortably. Don’t you want me to bring
+you home a nice little French “Victoria” this summer, instead of the old
+family ark? (The old family carriage imported by my uncle Samuel
+Appleton and after his death, in 1853, taken by my father.) As to the
+Bois, I can safely say that if I had my Boston turnout here complete
+there would not be a prettier one in Paris.
+
+Thursday: I am reading now with my French teacher, Théophile Gautier’s
+_Voyage en Russie_, and find it most entertaining and instructive,
+particularly as he gives a _couleur de rose_ account of the winter
+amusements.... I take up my pen for the third time to finish this, but
+you know there is never the least opportunity of doing anything in
+Paris, or even of finishing what is begun, and except my weekly letters
+to you I have scarcely written at all. My groom has just been amusing
+himself with packing up some of my traps, as I have one good sized trunk
+to leave in Paris full of summer clothes, which I don’t think I shall
+want, and odds and ends I have picked up here.
+
+Received an invitation yesterday from the Bishop of Pennsylvania, to
+confer with him on matters of importance for the church in Paris.
+
+
+ ADIEU TO PARIS.
+
+Today is dull and dreary out, but except for the Bois it makes little
+difference in P.
+
+I leave my phaeton, etc., at the Bank. I am going to try to find William
+Hunt, the artist, today. Well, I close and take this to the mail. Adieu
+to Paris and _mes beaux jours—en route_!—Russia and the North! Love to
+all.
+
+ Nate.
+
+
+ WILLIAM MORRIS HUNT.
+
+While he lived I regarded William M. Hunt as the first American artist,
+certainly in the line of portrait painting. I wanted for a long time to
+possess one of his pictures, and I would have liked to have had him
+paint my own portrait, but I never had the opportunity of doing so.
+
+One day in 1866, just before he was to sail for Europe, I went to his
+studio, and after some talk with him, he said he would let me have the
+head of Lincoln, which he had painted as a study for the full length
+portrait now in Faneuil Hall, for eight hundred dollars, currency. I
+agreed to purchase it and the bargain was made. He told me that he
+wanted to take it with him to Paris, that he might exhibit it at the
+great Exhibition of 1867, and I was pleased at this, and readily acceded
+to it, as I thought the portrait would have an additional interest and
+value from having been there. It was understood that I should not pay
+for the picture until it was delivered to me, and a bill of sale was
+made out to this effect. I afterwards saw the portrait both at Mr.
+Hunt’s studio at Paris, and also in the American department of the
+Exhibition, where it attracted considerable attention, and I gave myself
+no concern as to when I should own it.
+
+It so happened that the painting never came into my possession before my
+financial troubles in 1872, and after that, of course, I no longer
+thought of having it.
+
+After his death by drowning (He was found dead in the water.) at
+Appledore, Isles of Shoals, N. H., Sept. 8, 1879, his widow, the late
+Mrs. Louisa D. Hunt, was very disinclined to part with it, and so I
+never pressed my claim. According to a provision in her will a large
+number of his paintings and charcoal drawings were sold at public
+auction and the Lincoln portrait was reserved at the sale in February,
+1898, at the request of the Government. Mr. Hunt was a curious man,
+brilliant, full of eccentricities, and very fascinating in certain
+moods. His age was only fifty-five when he died.
+
+Regarding the portrait I received the following note, dated May 5,
+1866:—
+
+ My dear Appleton,
+
+ If you would like my portrait of President Lincoln you will please let
+ me know or Mr. Jere. Abbott. My price for it is $800. I should like
+ the privilege of taking it to England with me, and will return it to
+ you in a few months in case you desire it.
+
+ Yours truly,
+ Wm. M. Hunt,
+ 16 Summer St.
+
+ In care of Abbott & Howard, Kilby St., Boston.
+
+There was at the time I refer to, 1865–1866 (It was on the list at the
+sale.), a beautiful landscape of the Forest of Fontainebleau I ought to
+have bought, but did not. I once had in my collection of paintings one
+which had belonged to my brother, T. G. A., a small picture, with a
+church in the background, and in the foreground several sheaves of
+wheat, and peasants returning to their houses from the field, with the
+light of a setting sun. It had the touch and the glow of the master.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ ABRAHAM LINCOLN.
+]
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER SECOND
+ LINCOLN AND EMANCIPATION
+
+
+ ABRAHAM LINCOLN
+
+ “All merit comes
+ From braving the unequal:
+ All glory comes from daring to begin:
+ Fame loves the state
+ That, reckless of the sequel,
+ Fights long and well, whether it lose or win.”
+ —_Eugene F. Ware_
+
+I have always regretted that I never had the privilege of making the
+acquaintance of President Lincoln. I remember having met him one summer
+at Washington during the war, as he was driving to the Soldiers’ Home,—a
+few miles out of the city where he passed the hot season,—in an open
+carriage with an escort of cavalry, which was a rare sight for a
+President of the United States, until the requirements of war and the
+treasonable elements which pervaded society in Washington seemed to make
+such a precaution advisable. This was civil war with its unseen dangers
+in the nation’s capital. I can just remember his sad face, which
+appeared full of the responsibilities of the situation, as he drove
+along.
+
+
+ LINCOLN AND EMANCIPATION.
+
+The antislavery movement in the United States, began in the mountains of
+the South by Benjamin Lundy, of Wheeling, West Virginia. He published a
+paper called “The Genius of Universal Emancipation,” first at Mount
+Pleasant, Ohio, afterwards at Jonesville, East Tennessee, and in 1824,
+he removed it to Baltimore, Md.
+
+In 1825, Miss Frances Wright, a youthful and enthusiastic
+philanthropist, established ten miles east of Memphis, Tenn., a manual
+training school, in which each negro was to be freed as soon as he
+proved himself capable of self support. She was a friend of Lafayette,
+who was keenly interested in the plan, but it failed, and she took her
+slaves to Hayti, where she settled them on land granted by the Haitian
+government, freed them, and left them there.
+
+All this was before the organization of the New England Antislavery
+Society, which was formed in 1832, by William Lloyd Garrison, returning
+from Baltimore where he had been associated with Lundy.
+
+On December 6, 1847, Abraham Lincoln took his seat in the Thirtieth
+Congress as a member from the state of Illinois. He was thirty-eight
+years of age, and six feet four inches in height. His character and
+principles are thus briefly and truthfully described by J. G. Holland,
+in reviewing his public career:—
+
+“He introduced them to a new national life. He has given them a
+statesman without a statesman’s craftiness, a politician without a
+politician’s meannesses, a great man without a great man’s vices, a
+philanthropist without a philanthropist’s impracticable dreams, a
+Christian without pretensions, a ruler without the pride of place and
+power, an ambitious man without selfishness, and a successful man
+without vanity.”
+
+His position in the Thirtieth Congress on all the principal points at
+issue were of the Whig party, and in the second session he began his
+work for the abolishment of slavery in the District of Columbia in which
+the national capital is situated, by introducing on the 16th of January,
+1849, a measure which he intended as a substitute for a resolution
+introduced by Mr. Gott of New York, instructing the Committee of the
+District of Columbia to report a bill prohibiting the slave trade in the
+District. Mr. Lincoln’s substitute provided that no person not within
+the District, and no person thereafter born within the District should
+be held to slavery within the District, or held to slavery without its
+limits, while it provided that those holding slaves in the slave states
+might bring them in and take them out again when visiting the District
+on public business. It also provided for the emancipation of all the
+slaves legally held within the District, at the will of their masters,
+who could claim their full value at the hands of the Government, and
+that the act itself should be subject to the approval of the voters of
+the District. It had also a proviso to restore to their owners all
+fugitive slaves escaping into the District.
+
+Mr. Lincoln regarded slavery as property under the Constitution. Legally
+he believed slavery to be right, morally he believed it to be wrong.
+
+On the presentation of this bill Mr. Lincoln had a considerable number
+of influential supporters in the District, but they subsequently
+withdrew, and the subject was given up, to be revived again, under
+circumstances impossible to be foretold, thirteen years after.
+
+Speaking in 1859, on the slave power, he said:—“Broken by it, I, too,
+may be, bow to it I never will. The probability that we may fail in the
+struggle, ought not to deter us from the support of a cause which I deem
+to be just, and it shall not deter me. If ever I feel the soul within me
+elevate and expand to those dimensions not wholly unworthy of its
+Almighty Architect, it is when I contemplate the cause of my country,
+deserted by all the world besides, and I, standing up boldly and alone,
+and hurling defiance at her victorious oppressors. Here, without
+contemplating consequences, before high Heaven, and in the face of the
+world, I swear eternal fidelity to the just cause, as I deem it, of the
+land of my life, my liberty, and my love.”
+
+On March 4th, 1861, Mr. Lincoln was inaugurated President of the United
+States, and several of the slaveholding states rebelled against the
+authority of the National Government, passed ordinances of secession,
+and with other states joined to them attempted to gain possession of the
+national capital, thereby bringing on the great war of 1861, which
+lasted four years, and ended in the preservation of the Union and the
+re-establishment of the national authority over every state and
+territory.
+
+In the effort to reclaim the recalcitrant states and restore peace to
+the country, every expedient was used, and when, by proclamation of
+President Lincoln, Congress assembled in extra session on the Fourth of
+July, 1861, Mr. Trumbull of Illinois introduced a bill in the Senate to
+emancipate all the slaves in the rebel states.
+
+At that time one-eighth of the whole population of the United States
+were colored slaves, located in the southern portion. They had been held
+in slavery two hundred and fifty years, having originally, and as
+required thereafter, been brought to this country in slave ships
+principally from the coast of Africa and the brisk and remunerative
+traffic still continued. The extra session closed on August 6, 1861,
+having lasted but little more than a month. In the meantime Major
+General John C. Fremont having been placed in command of the Department
+of the West, with headquarters at St. Louis, on the 25th of July, 1861,
+contemplating the restoration of order in Missouri, and the reclaiming
+of the control of the Mississippi River, proclaimed martial law,
+declared the property of all those who should take up arms against the
+United States confiscated to the public use, and their slaves, if they
+had any, were declared free men. In other words, he proclaimed freedom
+to the slaves of rebels, but, fearing that this would alarm Unionists in
+the South, Mr. Lincoln desired General Fremont, as of his own motion, so
+to modify his proclamation as to make this freedom apply only to such
+slaves as were engaged in the rebel service.
+
+General Fremont had taken this step without consultation or notice. The
+President wished him to conform to a confiscation act passed by
+Congress, but Fremont wished the President to order the change desired,
+as, if he should do it of his own motion, it would imply that he thought
+himself wrong, stating the difficulties under which he labored, with the
+communication with the government so difficult and the development of
+perplexing events so rapid in the department under his command. This the
+President did in a despatch under date of September 11, 1861, in these
+words:—
+
+ “It is therefore ordered, that the said clause of said proclamation be
+ so modified, held and construed, as to conform to, and not to
+ transcend the provisions on the same subject contained in the Act of
+ Congress entitled ‘An Act to Confiscate Property’ ... approved August
+ 6, 1861, and that such act be published at length with this order.”
+
+Before this order had been received, or on the day following its date,
+General Fremont, though acquainted with the President’s wishes,
+manumitted two slaves of Thomas L. Snead of St. Louis, in accordance
+with the terms of his proclamation.
+
+Lincoln believed that the time had not come for the liberating the
+slaves of rebels by proclamation, if he had, the Act of Congress would
+not have stood in the way. The Act was the embodiment of his own policy
+at that time. He had undertaken to preserve the Union and the rights of
+all the states. A record was to be kept of the slaves of loyal masters,
+and for their repayment for them Congress would provide. Slavery could
+only be interfered with as a military necessity, an essential means of
+saving the Union. He was assailed on the one side for being too slow,
+and on the other for being too precipitate.
+
+In March, 1862, the following resolution recommended by President
+Lincoln passed both houses of Congress, only a few members of the border
+states voting for it:—
+
+ “Resolved, That the United States ought to coöperate with any state
+ which may gradually adopt abolishment of slavery, giving to such state
+ pecuniary aid, to be used by such state in its discretion, to
+ compensate for inconveniences, public and private, produced by such
+ change of system.”
+
+Before the close of the session the President invited the senators and
+representatives of the slaveholding states not in rebellion, to a
+conference at the White House, at which he admonished them that if they
+had all voted for the resolution the war would then have been
+substantially ended.
+
+“If the war,” said he, “continues long, as it must if the object be not
+sooner attained (i. e. the restoration of the Union without disturbance
+of the institution of slavery) the institution in your states will be
+extinguished by mere friction and abrasion—by the mere incidents of the
+war. It will be gone, and you will have nothing in lieu of it. Much of
+its value is gone already. How much better for you and for your people
+to take the step which at once shortens the war, and secures substantial
+compensation for that which is sure to be wholly lost in any other
+event.... I do not speak of emancipation at once, but of a decision at
+once, to emancipate gradually. Room in South America for colonization
+can be obtained cheaply, and in abundance, and when numbers shall be
+large enough to be company and encouragement for one another, the freed
+people will not be so reluctant to go.”
+
+The time for the voluntary abolishment of the slave system was at any
+date previous to 1900.
+
+In this session slavery was abolished in the District of Columbia,
+completing the work begun in 1849, and recognizing the two principles of
+colonization and compensation. This session also passed the confiscation
+act by which the traitor to the general government forfeited his slaves,
+as well as any other property, and Congress decided in advance, that the
+slaves thus confiscated and held by the government should be declared
+free.
+
+Then the public at the north, these measures having been enacted,
+demanded a sweeping proclamation of emancipation. The antislavery
+element clamored for swifter and more radical recognition, aroused and
+sustained by the eloquence of the spoken and written word.
+
+These were the clarion notes of Whittier’s “Voices of Freedom”:—
+
+ “If we have whispered truth
+ Whisper no longer:
+ Speak as the tempest does,
+ Sterner and stronger.
+
+ Still be the tones of truth
+ Louder and firmer:
+ Startling the haughty South
+ With the deep murmur.”
+
+To which the President made reply:—
+
+“What I do about slavery and the colored race, I do because I believe it
+helps to save this Union, and what I forbear, I forbear because I do not
+believe it could help to save the Union.... I intend no modification of
+my oft-expressed personal wish that all men everywhere could be free.”
+
+He understood that his oath of office stood in the way of the present
+accomplishment of that wish, but that for the preservation of the
+Constitution and the Union measures otherwise unconstitutional might
+become lawful. That to preserve slavery he could not permit the wreck of
+government, country and constitution all together. He objected to
+General Fremont’s order of emancipation because he did not then consider
+it a necessity. He objected to the arming of the blacks, as suggested by
+the Secretary of War, Simon Cameron, for the same reason; also to an
+attempt by General David A. Hunter for a military emancipation,
+believing as he did in compensated emancipation. But the border states,
+toward whom he had fulfilled his whole duty, turned a deaf ear to his
+expostulations, and by this attitude relieved him of further
+responsibility toward them.
+
+
+ COLONIZATION.
+
+Congress placed at the President’s disposal a sum of money to be used
+for experiments with the colonization of the blacks, his choice of
+location being the Spanish American republics of Central and South
+America. In August, 1862, he invited a representative company of negroes
+to visit the White House and address him on the subject; the President
+asserting his conviction that both the whites and negroes would suffer
+by living in association with each other. He offered them the benefit of
+the fund intrusted to him for the purposes of colonization. But the
+Spanish American republics protested against black colonies in their
+midst. Liberia and Hayti only would receive them, and the blacks were
+not disposed to emigrate to those countries, and so that project faded
+as all such projects have failed in relation to sending the colored
+population out of the country. The President’s plan was one of
+benevolent solicitude for a race which he hoped to make self-reliant and
+independent.
+
+And it came to pass, that in the midsummer of 1862, President Lincoln
+called a meeting of his Cabinet and laid before them a draft of a
+proclamation of emancipation, which involved the freedom of all human
+beings held in slavery in the United States, amounting to four millions
+then living, and affecting untold millions then unborn, and
+revolutionizing the social status of more than a third part of the
+nation, but the Secretary of State, William H. Seward, while approving
+of the proclamation, opposed its issue at that time, immediately after
+so many reverses, and advised its postponement until it should have some
+military success to support it, that it should not have the appearance
+of an appeal for help. So the proclamation waited until the invasion of
+Maryland brought on the battle of Antietam resulting in the victory won
+by McClellan, when Mr. Lincoln brought forward his second draft of the
+instrument,—even then a preliminary proclamation,—which was issued on
+the 22d of September, 1862, the battle having been fought on the 17th;
+Mr. Lincoln being reported as saying that he made a resolve that when
+McClellan should drive Lee over the river he would send the proclamation
+after him.
+
+This proclamation declared free the slaves of those states, and those
+sections of states, which should be in rebellion on the 1st of January,
+1863, thus affording an opportunity for all rebel states which wished to
+preserve their ownership of slaves, to do so by returning to their
+allegiance to the Federal Government.
+
+September 24, 1862, the President issued a proclamation suspending the
+writ of _habeas corpus_, as the ordinary processes of law were not
+sufficient to restrain disloyal persons from hindering the execution of
+a draft of militia, which had been ordered, and from giving aid and
+comfort to the insurrection. This suspension lasted for two months, or
+until the 22d of November, 1862, and persons held in military custody
+were released on parole.
+
+On the 1st of January, 1863, the final proclamation of emancipation was
+issued. It was as follows:—
+
+
+ PROCLAMATION OF EMANCIPATION.
+
+ Whereas, on the twenty-second of September, in the year of our Lord
+ one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, a proclamation was issued by
+ the President of the United States, containing, among other things,
+ the following, to wit:
+
+ “That on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one
+ thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as slaves
+ within any state, or designated part of a state, the people whereof
+ shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be then,
+ thenceforward and forever free, and the executive government of the
+ United States, including the military and naval authority thereof,
+ will recognize and maintain the freedom of such persons, and will do
+ no act or acts to repress such persons, or any of them, in any efforts
+ they may make for their actual freedom. That the Executive will, on
+ the first day of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the
+ states and parts of states, if any, in which the people thereof
+ respectively shall then be in rebellion against the United States; and
+ the fact that any state or the people thereof shall on that day be in
+ good faith represented in the Congress of the United States by members
+ chosen thereto at elections wherein a majority of the qualified voters
+ of such state shall have participated, shall, in the absence of strong
+ countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evidence that such
+ state, and the people thereof, are not then in rebellion against the
+ United States.”
+
+ Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, President of the United States, by
+ virtue of the power in me vested as Commander-in-Chief of the Army and
+ Navy of the United States in time of actual armed rebellion against
+ the authority and government of the United States, and as a fit and
+ necessary war measure for suppressing said rebellion, do, on this
+ first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
+ hundred and sixty-three, and in accordance with my purpose so to do,
+ publicly proclaimed for the full period of one hundred days from the
+ day first above mentioned, order and designate, as the states and
+ parts of states wherein the people thereof respectively are this day
+ in rebellion against the United States, the following, to wit:
+
+ Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana (except the parishes of St. Bernard,
+ Plaquemine, Jefferson, St. John, St. Charles, St. James, Ascension,
+ Assumption, Terre Bonne, Lafourche, St. Marie, St. Martin and Orleans,
+ including the city of New Orleans), Mississippi, Alabama, Florida,
+ Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (except the
+ forty-eight counties designated as West Virginia, and also the
+ counties of Berkely, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth City, York,
+ Princess Anne, and Norfolk, including the cities of Norfolk and
+ Portsmouth, and which excepted parts are for the present left
+ precisely as if this proclamation were not issued).
+
+ And, by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid, I do order
+ and declare that all persons held as slaves within said designated
+ states and parts of states, are, and henceforward shall be free, and
+ that the Executive Government of the United States, including the
+ military and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain
+ the freedom of said persons.
+
+ And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be free, to abstain
+ from all violence, unless in necessary self-defence, and I recommend
+ to them that in all cases, when allowed, they labor faithfully for
+ reasonable wages.
+
+ And I further declare and make known that such persons of suitable
+ condition will be received into the armed service of the United States
+ to garrison forts, positions, stations and other places, and to man
+ vessels of all sorts in said service. And upon this act, sincerely
+ believed to be an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon
+ military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of mankind, and
+ the gracious favor of Almighty God.
+
+ In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my name, and caused the seal
+ of the United States to be affixed.
+
+ Done at the City of Washington, this first day of January, in the year
+ of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three and of the
+
+ [L. S.] Independence of the United States the
+ eighty-seventh,
+ Abraham Lincoln.
+
+ By the President.
+ William H. Seward, _Secretary of State_.
+
+In the cabinet meeting to which the preliminary proclamation was
+submitted, by request of Mr. Seward the words “and maintain” were
+inserted after “recognize” in the third paragraph of that document in
+the second paragraph of the final proclamation, the President in his
+wisdom, having omitted the words, as it was not his way to promise more
+than he was sure he could perform, and he was not prepared to say that
+he thought he was able to maintain this. Thus the story is told on the
+best authority.
+
+Another paragraph is said to have been written by the Secretary of the
+Treasury, Salmon P. Chase, who had prepared a proclamation from which
+the President only selected the sentence beginning “And upon this Act,”
+and ending with “Almighty God,” with the exception of the word
+“sincerely” and the phrase “upon military necessity” which are the
+President’s own. It is said that Mr. Lincoln voluntarily revealed the
+authorship of the words attributed to Seward and Chase.
+
+
+ SLAVES STILL HELD IN LOYAL STATES.
+
+By this proclamation of emancipation the loyal slave states were allowed
+to retain the institution of slavery, which was secured to them by the
+Constitution, and in order to reach them certain articles of amendment
+to the Constitution of the United States must be acted upon by the
+legislatures of the several states, three-fourths of the number of which
+would make the articles valid. No servile insurrection or tendency to
+violence marked the execution of the provisions of the proclamation
+relative to the arming of the negroes.
+
+At the session of Congress beginning in December, 1863, the Fugitive
+Slave Law was repealed.
+
+At the national Republican convention which met at Baltimore, June 8,
+1864, and nominated Lincoln for re-election, one of the resolutions
+advocated a constitutional amendment abolishing slavery. Another
+declared that the government owed protection to all its soldiers,
+without distinction of color, and at the session of congress which
+opened the following December, an amendment to the Constitution was
+passed abolishing slavery in all the states. It needed now to be adopted
+by the vote of the states, and the necessity was pressing, for in order
+to place in their hands a weapon of self-defence against re-enslavement
+the negroes must be given the right to vote.
+
+
+ THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES. FOURTEENTH AMENDMENT.
+
+ Article XIV. Section 1. All persons born or naturalized in the United
+ States, and subject to the jurisdiction thereof are citizens of the
+ United States and of the state wherein they reside. No state shall
+ make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges or
+ immunities of citizens of the United States; nor shall any state
+ deprive any person of life, liberty, or property, without due process
+ of law, nor deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal
+ protection of the laws.
+
+ Section 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among the several
+ states according to their respective numbers, counting the whole
+ number of persons in each state, excluding Indians not taxed. But when
+ the right to vote at any election for the choice of electors for
+ president and vice-president of the United States, representatives in
+ Congress, the executive and judicial officers of a state, or the
+ members of the legislature thereof, is denied to any of the male
+ inhabitants of such state, being twenty-one years of age, and citizens
+ of the United States, or in any way abridged, except for participation
+ in rebellion or other crime, the basis of representation therein shall
+ be reduced in the proportion which the number of such male citizens
+ shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one years of
+ age in such state.
+
+ Section 3. No person shall be a senator, or representative in
+ congress, or elector of president, or vice-president, or hold any
+ office, civil or military, under the United States, or under any
+ state, who, having previously taken an oath, as a member of congress,
+ or as an officer of the United States, or as a member of any state
+ legislature, or as an executive or judicial officer of any state, to
+ support the constitution of the United States, shall have engaged in
+ insurrection or rebellion against the same, or given aid or comfort to
+ the enemies thereof. But congress may, by a vote of two-thirds of each
+ house, remove such disability.
+
+ Section 4. The validity of the public debt of the United States,
+ authorized by law, including debts incurred for payment of pensions
+ and bounties for services in suppressing insurrection or rebellion,
+ shall not be questioned.
+
+ But neither the United States, nor any state, shall assume or pay any
+ debt or obligation incurred in aid of insurrection or rebellion
+ against the United States, or any claim for the loss or emancipation
+ of any slave; but all such debts, obligations and claims shall be held
+ illegal and void.
+
+ Section 5. The congress shall have power to enforce, by appropriate
+ legislation, the provisions of this article.
+
+The Fourteenth Amendment was proposed to the legislatures of the several
+states by the thirty-ninth congress on June 16, 1866, and after delay
+caused by withdrawals of ratifications and of rejections of
+ratifications by many of the states, on July 28, 1868, it was announced
+by the Secretary of State that it had become valid to all intents and
+purposes, as a part of the Constitution of the United States.
+
+
+ THE CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES. FIFTEENTH AMENDMENT.
+
+ Article XV. Sect. 1. The right of citizens of the United States to
+ vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United States, or by any
+ state, on account of race, color, or previous condition of servitude.
+
+ Section 2. The congress shall have power to enforce this article by
+ appropriate legislation.
+
+The fifteenth amendment was proposed to the legislatures of the several
+states by the fortieth Congress on February 27, 1869, and was declared,
+in a proclamation of the Secretary of State, dated March 30, 1870, to
+have been ratified by the constitutional number of states, and to have
+“become valid to all intents and purposes as part of the Constitution of
+the United States.”
+
+
+ AFTER EMANCIPATION.
+
+The history of the war shows that one hundred and seventy-eight thousand
+nine hundred and seventy-five negroes, took part either in the army or
+the navy of the United States, and the losses these troops sustained
+from sickness, wounds, killed in battle and other casualties incident to
+war, were sixty-eight thousand one hundred and seventy-eight.
+
+The war was over in the spring of 1865. Then came the reconstruction
+period, and in 1876, the Democratic party, most influential in the
+Southern States, unqualifiedly accepted in its national platform all the
+results of the war, including the war amendments to the Constitution.
+
+Yet, while the race progressed with marvellous rapidity through
+educational facilities eagerly sought for, and secured to them from
+private and public sources, the condition of the freed slaves and their
+descendants has not improved so materially as was anticipated.
+
+President Lincoln’s solicitude has not been proven false or exaggerated,
+“both the whites and negroes” _have_ suffered “by living in association
+with each other.”
+
+The tendency is to divide the whites from the blacks, the whites
+avoiding those sections where the races are placed on an equality in
+labor. The large plantations are being let out to colored tenants while
+the landlord seeks a more congenial environment in the cities, the poor
+whites seeking occupation in the manufacturing industries which have
+arisen and are being developed.
+
+It is asserted that the number of counties in the South in which the
+negroes outnumber the whites, counties containing the best cotton,
+tobacco, rice and sugar lands, has risen from 237 in 1860, to 279 in
+1900, and that within these counties there are, on the average, 130
+negroes to every 100 whites, and that in 1860, there were 71 counties in
+which the negroes were more than twice as numerous as the whites, which
+number in 1900, had increased to 108, and 92 per cent of the colored
+race is found in the states which were in rebellion in 1861.
+
+Notwithstanding the investment with citizenship which was supposed to
+remove from the slave the disqualification of having no standing in
+court, from the time of emancipation to the present, negro lynchings in
+the southern and western portions of the United States have shocked the
+civilized world by their frequency and cruelty; victims of both sexes
+having been burnt at the stake without any pretense of a form of trial,
+while local juries were unwilling to indict or condemn those who thus
+transgressed constitutional law.
+
+The Fourteenth Amendment has been virtually annulled, and the white vote
+is apportioned on a fictitious representation, and based upon a black
+majority.
+
+Measures, more or less disguised as to their purpose, have been passed
+by several southern states, tending to disfranchise the negroes, showing
+an inclination to gradually return to former conditions, until they have
+once more assumed their original bold attitude, and in the Fifty-eighth
+Congress, which assembled December 7, 1903, notice was given that the
+United States Senator from Tennessee would introduce a bill for the
+repeal of the Fifteenth Amendment, “with a view to a permanent solution
+of the vexing negro question, by eliminating the enfranchised negro as a
+political factor.” It was said that the Senator would be supported by
+every Southern member in Congress, and not a few members of other
+sections of the Union. An ex-governor of Virginia was quoted as saying
+in New York, that there is only one solution, and that is that the
+Nation must recede from its position on negro suffrage, and plans to
+that effect have been announced in several southern states.
+
+
+ AN APPEAL TO THE COUNTRY.
+
+On their own behalf, in a mass meeting held in Boston, November 7, 1903,
+forty years after Emancipation, and three years after the outside limit
+of time, 1900, set in the resolution recommending the co-operation of
+the Federal Government in the gradual abolishment of slavery, with
+compensation, passed in March, 1862, the following appeal, involving the
+rights of 10,000,000 colored people of the United States, was addressed
+to the country by the Boston Negro Suffrage League:—
+
+ “We appeal to the conscience of the country to rally to our help, to
+ restore to us rights bought by us with a great price, the price of
+ nearly three centuries of faithful service and of blood shed by us in
+ four wars. We appeal to the American people in their strength, to have
+ regard for us in our weakness, and to grant us fair play and equal
+ opportunities with others, to make the most and the best of ourselves
+ in their midst. We call upon a Christian nation to treat us as fellow
+ Christians, as human beings. We implore a boastfully free republic to
+ save us from re-enslavement, to mete out to us even-handed justice,
+ and to throw over us everywhere the impartial protection of her laws
+ and Constitution.”
+
+
+ DEATH OF LINCOLN.
+
+ “So he grew up, a destined work to do,
+ And lived to do it: four long-suffering years.
+ Ill-fate, ill-feeling, ill-report, lived through,
+ And then he heard the hisses changed to cheers,
+
+ The taunts to tribute, the abuse to praise,
+ And took both with the same unwavering mood:
+ Till, as he came on light, from darkling days,
+ And seemed to touch the goal from where he stood,
+
+ A felon hand, between the goal and him,
+ Reached from behind his back, a trigger prest—
+ And those perplexed and patient eyes were dim,
+ Those gaunt, long-laboring limbs were laid to rest.
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ The Old World and the New, from sea to sea,
+ Utter one voice of sympathy and shame!
+ Sore heart, so stopped when it at last beat high,
+ Sad life, cut short just as its triumph came.”
+
+ —_London Punch_, May 6, 1865.
+
+Re-elected President of the United States for another term of four
+years, and having seen the termination of the war, Abraham Lincoln died
+in Washington by the hand of an assassin. He was shot by J. Wilkes
+Booth, a member of a family of actors, in a private box of Ford’s
+Theatre, a few minutes past ten o’clock on the evening of April 14,
+1865, and was carried across the street to a private house, 516 Tenth
+Street, where he died at 7.22 the next morning without recovering
+consciousness. Reverent and devout by nature, his utterances had often
+impressed the people with a sense of his own firm reliance on the Divine
+arm. “I have been driven many times to my knees,” he once remarked, “by
+the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere else to go. My own wisdom
+and that of all about me seemed insufficient for that day.” So when the
+bewildering news of his death burst upon the world, that was the
+characteristic most forcibly brought to mind, and “God lives” was the
+chosen message flashed over the wires from a high state official to
+quell the tumult of indignation which thrilled every corner of the great
+Republic. At his obsequies the funeral procession was so long that the
+head of it had begun to disperse at the Capitol, before the rear had
+passed the Treasury Department on its way from the Executive Mansion.
+
+At the cemetery in Springfield, Illinois, where he was buried May 4,
+1865, the procession being under the immediate charge of Major General
+Joseph Hooker, Bishop Simpson quoted his words spoken in relation to the
+slave power, in 1859, beginning “Broken by it, I, too, may be, bow to it
+I never will.”
+
+
+ PERSONAL RECOLLECTIONS.
+
+On the evening of April 16th, just before sunset, when the news of the
+assassination came to our camp, during an exhausting march from
+Appomattox Court House after Lee’s surrender, to guard the railroad at
+Nottaway C. H., a courier rode up with a despatch for General Charles S.
+Wainwright of whose staff I was a member, announcing the event in a few
+words.
+
+The effect upon us was tremendous, we could not believe that it was
+true, and I thought at the time that it must lead to some uprising or
+revolution. It was a shock to both soldiers and citizens that they could
+hardly realize. But his work was done, his life was complete, and he was
+allowed to die in all the glory and dignity of an unselfish triumph.
+
+In a building corner of Broadway and 10th Street, New York, between what
+was then Stewart’s great dry goods establishment and Grace Church, I had
+from 1874 to 1879, a little den. It looked, like all my rooms, very
+cozy, with a medley of boyish, college, and army trophies hanging about,
+and endless souvenirs of travel and previous years experience on the
+walls, and in graceful confusion. Many of my old half discarded things
+had fallen into place, and I wrote under the light of a Russian double
+candlestick with a soft green shade, while my gas was being put in
+order. My old army toggery I had arranged in a trophy—sword, belt, sash,
+cap, pistol, spurs, blouse of Second Lieutenant of Artillery (Fifth
+Massachusetts Battery, Light Artillery) with the holes through the right
+sleeve and the blood on the lining, corps and other military badges,
+etc., and as a background the American flag, in silk, given me by some
+dear friends with whom I often stayed at Weston, Mass., and which I
+carried with me in the army, and had suspended in my winter quarters on
+the Rappahannock River, Va., 1863-’4. As I now look at them I can see on
+my sword knot the very same crape which was twisted round it by my
+servant “Joe,” when all the army went into mourning for the death of
+Abraham Lincoln. It is to me a precious relic, and one such as I imagine
+there are few preserved.
+
+In April, 1879, I wrote what follows in a letter to the Boston
+_Transcript_:—
+
+“The writer paid a visit yesterday to that remarkable picture now on
+exhibition at Doll and Richards’, 2 Park Street, (Boston) by Albion H.
+Bicknell, representing President Lincoln at the dedication of the
+cemetery at Gettysburg. Oh, that word! What a story does it tell! It was
+the central turning point of the war, just as Bull Run was the
+beginning, and Appomattox the end.
+
+As you look at that wonderful painting, and gaze at the different men
+there—men who were towers of strength for the Union,—you find, as you
+count them off one by one, that more than two-thirds of those who were
+there that bright autumn afternoon, November 19, 1863, have ere this
+passed on,—Seward, Andrew, Everett, Meade, Chase, Wilson, Stanton,
+Morton, Greeley, Sumner, Welles, Johnson, Hamlin, Fessenden,—are with us
+no more.
+
+The landscape, with the trees and the sky and the flavor of autumn in
+the air, is admirable. The grouping is simple, natural and effective,
+and the likenesses of the different persons are remarkable. There they
+are, honest and earnest American citizens, in the prosaic dress of the
+day,—real, not ideal,—some few of them in uniform, but a majority in the
+habiliments of civil life. You can almost catch the serious words of
+President Lincoln, just as he delivered them in that terse speech which
+will go down to posterity as his masterpiece of oratory.”
+
+
+ STATUE AT SPRINGFIELD, ILL.—
+
+
+GRANT’S LONGEST SPEECH.
+
+Early in the year 1874, a bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln was placed
+over his grave at Springfield, Illinois. It was unveiled with
+appropriate ceremonies and in the presence of over 25,000 people. Prayer
+was offered by Bishop Wayman of the (colored) Methodist Church, and an
+oration was delivered by Senator Oglesby of Illinois. President Ulysses
+S. Grant, Vice President Henry Wilson, ex-Vice President Schuyler Colfax
+and General William T. Sherman were present, and all made brief
+addresses, that of General Grant said to be the longest speech he ever
+delivered. It was as follows:—
+
+ “Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: On an occasion like the present,
+ it is a duty on my part to bear testimony to the great and good
+ qualities of the patriotic man whose earthly remains now rest beneath
+ the dedicated monument. It was not my fortune to make the personal
+ acquaintance of Mr. Lincoln till the beginning of the last year of the
+ great struggle for national existence. During those years of trouble
+ and despondency, amongst the many patriotic men of the country,
+ Abraham Lincoln never for a moment doubted that the final result would
+ be in favor of peace, union, and freedom to every race in this broad
+ land. His faith in an all-wise Providence directing our arms to this
+ final result, was the faith of the Christian that his Redeemer liveth.
+ Amid obloquy, personal abuse and hate undisguised, which were given
+ vent to without restraint through the press, upon the stump, and in
+ private circles, he remained the same staunch, unyielding servant of
+ the people, never exhibiting revengeful feelings towards his
+ traducers, he, rather, pitied them, and hoped for their own sakes, and
+ the good name of their posterity, they might desist. It did not occur
+ to him for a single moment that the man Lincoln was being assailed,
+ but that a treasonable spirit, one waiting to destroy the fairest
+ government the sun ever shone upon, was giving vent to itself on him,
+ as the chief executive of the nation, only because he was such
+ executive. As a lawyer in your midst, he would have avoided all that
+ slander, for his life was a pure and simple one, and no doubt he would
+ have been a much happier man; but who can tell what might have been
+ the fate of the nation but for the pure, unselfish, and wise
+ administration of Lincoln?
+
+ From March, 1864, to the day when the hand of an assassin opened the
+ grave for Mr. Lincoln when President of the United States, my personal
+ relations with him were as close as the nature of our respective
+ duties would permit. To know him personally was to love and respect
+ him for his great qualities of head and heart, and for his patience
+ and patriotism.
+
+ With all his disappointments from failures on the part of those to
+ whom he intrusted command, and treachery on the part of those who had
+ gained his confidence but to betray it, I never heard him utter a
+ complaint, nor cast censure for bad conduct or bad faith. It was his
+ nature to find excuses for his adversaries. In his death the nation
+ lost its greatest head. In his death the South lost its most just
+ friend.”
+
+Lincoln said to Grant, when as Lieutenant General he placed him in
+charge of all the Armies:—
+
+ “The particulars of your plans I neither know, nor seek to know. You
+ are vigilant and self-reliant; and, pleased with this, I wish not to
+ obtrude any restraints nor constraints upon you.”
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Boston is fortunate in having in Park Square the emancipation group by
+Thomas Ball, of Lincoln breaking the fetters of a negro slave, the gift
+of Hon. Moses Kimball to the city.
+
+In Chicago, October 1, 1893, during the World’s Columbian Exposition, I
+went to see the statue of Abraham Lincoln by Saint Gaudens in Lincoln
+Park. It is splendid in every way, one of the finest certainly in the
+country and perhaps in the world, and in 1903, a bronze statue of
+Lincoln, cast in heroic mould with uplifted arm, was erected on a hill
+in a town in Illinois from which point it may be seen for twenty miles
+in every direction.
+
+The theatre building where he was shot was never afterwards used for
+entertainments, but for many years contained a collection of curios from
+the battle fields, which was subsequently removed to the National
+Museum, and it has since been attached to the War Department as an
+office building for a bureau.
+
+August 5, 1901, I visited the house where he died, now containing the
+Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, consisting of over 3000 articles
+pertaining to the martyred President.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER THIRD.
+ BRUSSELS. THANKSGIVING IN BERLIN. WILNA.
+
+ “This is the place. Stand still, my steed,
+ Let me review the scene,
+ And summon from the shadowy Past
+ The forms that once have been.”
+ —_Henry W. Longfellow._
+ “_A Gleam of Sunshine_,” edition of 1864.
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Berlin, Nov. 29, 1866,
+ Or, in other words, Thanksgiving Day.
+
+I happen to be aware of this fact, Mama, because yesterday, strolling
+about the Berlin gallery we met first Mr. Urbino (Dealer in choice
+foreign books in Boston) and afterwards Mr. Kellogg, (My brother
+Willie’s travelling friend) the latter of whom told us that all the
+Americans were to have a big Thanksgiving dinner at some hotel here, and
+so we also put our names down, and mean to do “the eminent American.”
+
+Almost twelve and not breakfasted as yet! How lazy one does get, and we
+have tickets to see the Schloss at twelve, precisely.
+
+Well then, to begin,—We really left Paris on Saturday, arriving at
+Brussels in time to take a cup of tea, a chicken cold, and retire, and
+you have no idea how nice it is again to be on the move!
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ WILNA.
+]
+
+Sunday, a drizzly day, we drove all the way out to Waterloo amidst the
+hoots of the “rag, tag and bobtail” of the villages taking us for
+British tourists. We scanned the scene of conflict with military gaze,
+bought a cane and a lunch, chaffed the natives, and returned in time to
+see Déjazet the celebrated old actress perform in a charming little
+piece. Monday we strolled about the town, looked at a few pictures,
+flattened our noses on the shop windows, very pretty they are, too, that
+is, the things within, and would find ourselves suddenly bringing up at
+some grand old cathedral, or a fascinating marketplace, with statues to
+old “swells” whose heads had been discontinued there; gilt-edged houses
+in which the ancient guilds and clubs held forth, crooked streets, high
+hills, etc. etc.
+
+That evening after dinner we billeted ourselves for Berlin viâ Cologne,
+and I soon had an excellent opportunity of airing my execrable German,
+and thanking myself for the little I possess.
+
+Well, here we are in Berlin, the city of music and philosophy, and here
+is Charlie,—by the way, the best travelling companion imaginable,—ready
+to descend for breakfast.
+
+P. M. I am now in my evening harness with just time to finish this
+before going to dine. Yesterday we went to the Gallery, which I liked
+exceedingly, although there are only a few real masterpieces, many of
+which I knew well from your book “The Berlin Gallery,” at home. The
+Murillo is perhaps the finest. The building itself is charmingly
+arranged, all the different schools in order, and the temperature just
+right, which you won’t find in the Italian galleries. We then sauntered
+along to Unter den Linden, and caused a great sensation. Whether our
+reefing jackets and little hats and blue scarfs, or our truly distingué
+and _chic_,—tell Willie the word is still a favorite in
+Paris,—appearance were the cause, I know not. I can here say that the
+Berliners are not exactly “swells,” though big on metaphysics, and now
+on diplomacy and war; certain it is, however, that many were the smiles
+bestowed upon us as we gaily marched along.
+
+In the evening we saw a very good ballet at the Victoria Theatre. Today
+we have not accomplished much except the King’s old palace, and got fur
+lined boots, very necessary for travelling, and filled our pockets with
+roubles. Tomorrow we go to see the paintings in company with Mr. Thies
+and probably in the evening start for Königsberg, where I will get you
+an amber bracelet. The weather is quite mild now, but I think after
+leaving Wilna it will be fresh enough. It is rather an odd city, this
+Berlin, with a feeble little stream called the Spree, just under our
+window. Charlie sends love to all. Good night, for I go to the feast of
+Bacchus,—roast turkey and plumb pudding.
+
+ N. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Professor Thies, whom I met in Berlin, had been curator of the Gray
+Collection of Engravings at Harvard College, and showed to a party of us
+in the second term of my Junior year the famous prints, collected by
+Francis Colley Gray principally abroad, which he bequeathed to the
+College, and which were then in one of the alcoves of Gore Hall, or the
+Library, up stairs. Our party consisted of Professor Longfellow and his
+son Charlie, George B. Shattuck and his sister, my sister and myself. It
+was a great treat and gave me my first real knowledge of art. We
+examined all the engravings, taking several weeks, and the remarks of
+Professor Thies were full of knowledge and charm. It was an education
+not only in the art of different kinds of engraving, but of painting and
+sculpture, as many of them were copies of the masterpieces of these two
+branches of art. The Collection was transferred to the Boston Museum of
+Fine Arts when it was opened, and now forms a part of the Fogg Museum at
+Harvard.
+
+
+ BERLIN IN 1866.
+
+In Berlin, the palaces, houses and stores on the principal
+thoroughfares, stand before you as dull and unsentimental looking as the
+Prussian sentinels. The people whom you meet, while appearing as
+respectable and worthy as church deacons, have no elegance nor grace
+about them, they come and go on every side as gravely and soberly as is
+permitted to human beings, with nothing disorderly or gay in their
+manner. They impress you all as being in what is called “comfortable
+circumstances,” wearing a look of contented commonplaceness, and with
+the most unbounded respect for things as they are in Prussia, from the
+Kaiser down, and a corresponding ignorance of and pity for the situation
+in other less favored countries. There is an egotistical patriotism in
+this which is delicious, and which must have its merits, but it
+certainly makes its supporters more objects of curiosity than of
+interest to any outsiders, with whom they may come in contact. But, on
+the other hand, there is a compactness in the forward march of the North
+Germans as a nation, which is irresistible, and which is certain to
+accomplish great results, and for it the philosophical student of
+history cannot but feel an admiration which he does not accord to the
+more attractive and mercurial inhabitants of other countries. He
+respects intensely the Prussians, but he does not care to live among
+them.
+
+The next morning after our arrival in Berlin we sauntered forth to see
+all there was in the city, and to provide ourselves with a complete
+outfit of furs: caps, coats and boots. The weather was cold and we would
+need these protections for the rest of our journey, and we knew there
+was no better market in Europe for obtaining them of good quality and at
+reasonable prices than in the city of Frederick the Great.
+
+
+ THANKSGIVING DINNER.
+
+ Wilna, Dec. 3, 1866.
+
+ My dear Mamma:
+
+I begin you a letter here as we have some time before the train starts
+for St. Petersburg which I will finish there, and will take up my story
+at Berlin, where I left myself just going to dinner.
+
+The dinner was quite successful and amusing: about one hundred Americans
+of all styles collected together, one pretty girl, Miss R. of
+Springfield, my classmate Green (The distinguished oculist Dr. J. Orne
+Green.), lots of old professional buffers, and a good deal of ruff skuff
+in long coats and red scarfs, and several military men. Charlie and I
+got an old Russian gentleman between us and talked philosophy and _la
+vie Russe_.
+
+The minister, Mr. Wright, presided, and went through very gracefully the
+rather difficult performance of drinking the health of the President!
+
+The Opera House at Berlin is quite stunning, and they have the best
+female singer in the world, Lucca. We did not have the good fortune to
+hear her. Berlin is ahead of all the world in music. In other respects I
+think it rather a dull city, but then, we have not as yet shaken off the
+glitter of Paris from our garments.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ STATUE OF KANT. KÖNIGSBURG, 1866.
+]
+
+The next day we went to Königsberg on the Baltic, where we passed
+twenty-four hours, and visited the Schloss where the Teutonic Knights in
+ye ancient time held their revels, and where later the King and Queen of
+Prussia lived when Napoleon captured Berlin and made the peace of
+Tilsit. There is an old modern church in which the numberless columns
+almost prevent your seeing across, and a very old cathedral, with lots
+of interesting monuments.
+
+Yesterday we came here, a flourishing Polish town before Russia “gobbled
+it up,” and go through the experience of having our trunks and passports
+examined every few hours, although, when they find we are Americans,
+they are very civil. They can’t quite make us out, and look upon us as
+curiosities, especially stopping at Wilna. America seems to them so far
+off. The Russian surveillance is very strict in the Polish cities, more
+so than in Russia proper, and it was here that lots of Poles were hung
+only a few years ago. Napoleon slept in the palace here the night after
+Alexander left it.
+
+It is so awfully funny, this first taste of Russia, little sleighs just
+holding one man all covered with furs, and a big hoop over the horse
+like the pictures in our geography,—narrow streets with crowds of Jews,
+great bulb like steeples to the churches, and everything different. They
+keep the houses so warm that you almost suffer. Well, I must close for
+tonight.
+
+ N. A.
+
+
+ MY FAIRY SLEIGH.
+
+The spring previous to this Russian journey I received the following
+note from Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, on receiving a photograph of myself
+in my fancy sleigh:—
+
+ “Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis presents her regards to Mr. Appleton, and
+ very much thanks him for the interesting photograph which she had
+ already admired. She hopes he will have more snow the next winter to
+ enjoy his fairy like equipage, and wishes him health and happiness as
+ a reward for his wounds in the service of his country.”
+
+ Mt. Vernon Street,
+ 14th March, 1866.
+
+My pretty sleigh had the appearance of a Russian one as I had arranged
+what looked like a “duga” over the saddle of the horse, with a waving
+plume. I once drove down State street in it with my colored groom, the
+same old “Joe” who was with me in the army, sitting behind in the
+rumble, and from its striking appearance, with the white fox robes, made
+a mild sensation.
+
+
+ STOP OVER AT WILNA.
+
+We broke the journey from Berlin to St. Petersburg, which is long and
+uninteresting, by stopping over twenty-four hours at Wilna, once the
+capital of Lithuania, afterwards an important Polish and at present an
+unimportant Russian town. We thought we ought not to jump into the
+middle of Russia at once; we ought to look a little at the edges, and
+study the ways and customs of the provincials, which we were sure would
+be curious and worth seeing, so it was decided that we pass a day at
+Wilna.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ SINGLE SLEIGH.
+]
+
+There is probably no part of the civilized world where the annoyances
+about passports and baggage are greater than in conquered Poland.
+Everyone who enters the land is looked upon with suspicion, and the
+difficulty is not by any means over when you get in, for there is the
+same trouble to get out again, sometimes even worse. But few tourists
+stop there, and so any well-dressed stranger seen is an object of
+curiosity, and is most carefully watched by the police. Particularly is
+this system of espionage strong in the small cities, and one’s life
+there by it becomes a burden.
+
+It was late at night when we arrived at the depot. Our passports were
+carefully scrutinized, our names recorded, the name of the hotel where
+we intended to stop was taken down, and we were told that owing to the
+lateness of the hour our trunks would not be examined that night, but
+that we must come for the ceremony at ten o’clock the next morning. We
+were also informed that we could not leave the city without again having
+our passports examined and the proper _visa_ put on.
+
+
+ THE RUSSIAN BEGGAR.
+
+When we looked out of our hotel window the next morning the street in
+front was filled with beggars of every description, who on seeing us at
+the window began going through every imaginable kind of pantomime which
+might appeal to the pity or the pride of those to whom they were
+addressed. Perhaps of all the types of beggars in the world, the Polish
+Jew is the most striking. His long greasy hair, his longer and greasier
+coat, his trowsers tucked in his boots and his peculiar cap, are
+distinguishing traits. And then how he can pile on the agony in facial
+expression and gesture! No imagined grief of Dante’s Inferno can excel
+what the Polish Jew would make you believe are his sufferings as he
+stands thus piteously addressing you. For a handful of copper coins
+flung among the crowd, they fought hard and long.
+
+
+ A TOUR OF THE TOWN.
+
+After, with some difficulty, getting possession of our trunks, and
+showing that they contained no infernal machines, nor suspicious looking
+insurrectionary pamphlets, we jumped into a sleigh, as the ground here
+was well covered with snow, and wrapping ourselves up in our _shubes_
+started off on a tour of inspection through the town.
+
+There is something very fascinating in the first suspicion of the Orient
+as seen in the outlying frontier towns of the Sclavonic race. The bright
+colored churches with their bulbous steeples albeit dull and in
+miniature, give a suggestive hint of what the glories of Moscow and
+Constantinople will be. The queer costumes of the people, neither
+Asiatic or European, and their manners in which the patriarchal
+reverence for authority of the East is tinged with the curiosity and
+thirst for knowledge of the West, make you regard them as a sort of
+stepping stone or connecting link between Eastern and Western customs
+and civilization. And then it is all so different from life in the other
+European capitals, where each one is more or less a stilted copy of the
+others. Here you have the mixture of the European and Asiatic elements
+in such a peculiar way, that something astonishing strikes you
+continually, and the social relations are so vague that real adventures
+are likely to befall you in all the classes of society.
+
+The rough wooden sleigh in which we were whisked through the place, with
+its brightly painted _duga_ over the horse’s head, the light ornamented
+harness, with the strange dress of the driver, made visions of winter
+pleasures in St. Petersburg fill our imaginations, and we thought what a
+sensation we would make could we only be transferred just as we were
+into the Harlem Lane!
+
+
+ THE RUSSIAN HORSE, SLEIGH AND COACHMAN.
+
+Your sleigh follows you round by day and night, always within call, and
+so, enveloped in the dark furs of Astrachan or Siberia, you sally forth
+on your round of conquest. The horses are superb, very fast trotters,
+with high knee action, and holding their heads gracefully; the favorite
+colors are black or dappled gray. The ordinary sleigh, that of the
+_grand seigneur_, such, indeed, as the Emperor almost always uses, as
+well as those you pick up anywhere in the streets, are not unlike our
+well-known Portland cutters. Between the regular seat and the dash-board
+is a little narrow seat on which the driver perches, with one foot
+inside, and the other in a sort of stirrup outside, from which he braces
+himself to hold the horse. A fur robe, or rather a thick cloth robe
+trimmed with a deep border of fur, comes over you and is fastened around
+you, and hooked at the corners of the sleigh in such a way that you
+cannot tumble out. The sleighs are very plain, generally of varnished
+wood, not even painted. The coachman is a type quite different from what
+you will see in any other country. The most stylish are stout,
+impressive looking men of middle age, with a long beard like a French
+_sapeur_. They wear a dark, thick garment, which in shape I can only
+compare to a dressing-gown, fastened around the waist with a brilliant
+sash, and then falling nearly to the feet in great plaits.
+
+The fashionable owners of these turnouts are seated behind their drivers
+as comfortable as possible, and take as much interest in racing on the
+road and passing those about them, as we do when handling the ribbons
+ourselves. By far the most elegant turnout is the single sleigh with a
+trotter in the shafts and a horse on each side, making three abreast,
+galloping along. They are trained specially for this when young, and
+they do it well; bending their heads down to the right or left, as it
+may be, and rushing along madly. The Prefect of Police of St. Petersburg
+had a stunning team of that kind.
+
+Besides all I have mentioned there are many handsome double-seated
+sleighs, with a flunkey standing up behind on a board near the ground in
+some gorgeous livery, and cocked hat with turkey feathers of different
+colors, like a major general’s.
+
+I must not forget to mention the net that goes from the horse’s back to
+the dash-board of the sleigh, to prevent the snow from being kicked in
+your face, a most sensible idea, and one we could well copy in America.
+These nets are of brilliant colors, red, blue, or green, to match the
+livery and the sleigh, and the effect is fine as they float in the wind.
+The winter of 1870-’1, after my return from Russia, I used the net to
+keep the snow from being kicked in my face, a blue one, which I bought
+in St. Petersburg. A young fellow who saw me passing and did not
+understand what it was for, cried out:—“Look at that man, he’s afraid
+the flies will bite his horse!”—Not a bad remark for mid-winter, and I
+came to the conclusion that Russian ideas of sleighing were not
+altogether appreciated in America.
+
+
+ AT WILNA. THE CHIEF OF POLICE.
+
+The most amusing scene of our stop over at Wilna, was at the office of
+the Chief of Police. To arrange our passports for departing we went to
+the office during the afternoon, but as it was _jour de fête_, as it
+generally is, in honor of some saint, the bureau was closed and the head
+official was absent. In consideration of the great regard Russia felt
+for the United States, the second in command agreed to attend to our
+case, as we were in a hurry to leave the city, with the understanding
+that it must be submitted to his chief for approval. The interview was
+characteristic and ludicrous. The official spoke a little bad German,
+nothing else except Russian. We had both neglected our German studies
+and only knew a few phrases, sufficient to demand the necessities of
+life in travelling. The gaps were filled up with gestures, and the
+interrogatory of name, age, residence, occupation, went on slowly and
+unintelligibly enough until the hotel keeper, having heard of the
+dilemma in which all parties found themselves, came to the rescue with
+the little French he knew and assurances of the good character of the
+persons on trial, affirming that he had conversed with us long at his
+hotel and he was certain there was nothing suspicious about us. This
+only confused things more, and the poor official hardly knew what to do.
+He was unwilling to take so great a responsibility upon himself and
+began to think he had got some important political offenders. It is
+difficult to say how the interview would have ended; it began to look as
+if he intended locking us up until he should have time to reflect, but
+fortunately the Chief of Police at this moment came in. He was a
+gentleman of education and delicacy of feeling, one of those polished
+Russian officers so often met, and what was more to the point spoke both
+English and French fluently. He sat down quietly at his table, and in a
+dignified manner saying a few words in Russian to his now abashed
+assistant, examined carefully the passports, and finding everything _en
+regle_, asked us a few simple questions, which being satisfactorily
+answered, he said:—
+
+“I must apologize, gentlemen, for the annoyance to which you have been
+unavoidably subjected, but we poor officials have very strict orders in
+Polish Russia, and mistakes will sometimes arise.”
+
+When it was time to leave we were consigned to the best attention of all
+the conductors and railroad officials of the line, with orders to be
+treated as became American princes. The train was well filled with
+passengers, and we took our places in carriage 722, C, _première
+classe_, St. Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ NEVSKI PROSPECT ST. PETERSBURG.
+]
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER FOURTH.
+ ST. PETERSBURG. TSAR ALEXANDER II.
+
+ “I shall not be particular in stating
+ His journey, we’ve so many tours of late,
+ Suppose him then at Petersburgh; suppose
+ That pleasant capital of painted snows:—
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ Damsels and dances, revels, ready money,
+ Made ice seem paradise, and winter sunny.”
+ —_Lord Byron._
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+St. Petersburg, December 5, 1866. (Continuation of letter written at
+Wilna.) Here we are at last, having arrived yesterday evening, and I
+must say that our first impressions are in the midst of difficulties,
+for on awakening this morning we found it actually thawing, and the
+streets are all filled with slosh, but the funny little sleighs rush
+about incessantly, and perfectly silently as there are no bells on the
+horses. We have been occupied today going to the banker’s where I found
+your letter, and to the American legation where we saw the minister, who
+told us that my classmate, Jeremiah Curtin, had gone only yesterday to
+Moscow for two or three weeks, and in looking up some kind of good
+apartment.
+
+I think we shall stay here some time over Christmas, which I believe
+comes later in the Russian calendar than with us, and devote some time
+to learning Russian and continuing our French. In fact for the latter
+there can be no better place than here. There are only about six or
+seven hours of daylight now, and these we must give up to sight seeing,
+which I mean to do thoroughly, and to skating and sleighing. In my next
+I will give you a good account of Saint Petersburg and its sights.
+
+Till then adieu.
+
+ Nathan.
+
+
+ TO MY SISTER.
+
+ Saint Petersburg, December 14, 1866.
+
+... Well, isn’t it droll, here is your young brother established as a
+gay _flâneur_ in St. P., who means to delve into all the gayeties of the
+Russian life.
+
+Our Minister, General Cassius M. Clay, (Of Kentucky, then 56 years of
+age.), presented Charlie and myself the other day to a most lovely
+Russian Princess, who lives in a gorgeous palace worth about one million
+roubles,—a rouble in gold is just our paper dollar. (This was true at
+that time when our currency was depreciated.) After going through suites
+of apartments, billiard room and salons, we found her in the boudoir,
+and she received us with such a graceful cordiality that she won both
+our hearts immediately, and we are now at her feet. Tomorrow General
+Clay is to take us to the reception of the Spanish Ambassador, as they
+are to give a ball soon to which he wants us to be invited. The Minister
+seems very inclined to be attentive and kind. We shall presently be
+presented in due form to the Imperial family.
+
+Charlie and I are very comfortably established in a nice apartment with
+our books, and I want to stay here indefinitely. One must pass the
+winter somewhere, and why not here, where so few Americans have tried
+it?
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ HON. CASSIUS M. CLAY, MINISTER TO RUSSIA.
+]
+
+We have a jolly sleigh at our disposition, with a horse who rushes off
+like mad. Vehicles are a necessity here, where the distances are so
+tremendous, and no one ever walks, and you can hire excellent traps by
+the day, week, or month, much cheaper than taking them by the course.
+The sleighing has been splendid for the last week, and the Nevsky
+Prospect any afternoon is a sight worth seeing, filled with all kinds of
+sleighs. I have even seen one or two of our American cutters. All the
+strange equipages you read about are actually true, and the _troika_
+with one horse trotting and the other two galloping is no uncommon
+sight. The sleighing, when it once begins, lasts right along, as there
+is no sun at all to melt it, the days being very short, and what little
+sky there is overcast. You don’t feel the cold much either as there is
+very little wind,—how I shiver when I think of the Mill Dam,—(The “Mill
+Dam Road” a favorite Boston drive.), and we are learning many a wrinkle
+in the art of keeping warm, which we shall bring out in America. The
+shops, too, are fascinating, and I expect to invest heavily during my
+stay in all kinds of Russian articles, Persian silks and Circassian
+silver, Russian amulets, and the thousand and one things which you don’t
+see even in the cosmopolitan shops of Paris; among others a complete
+Russian harness, with a cap for the driver. There is a huge bazaar,
+where everything can be found, built in a parallelogram, with shops on
+the four sides.
+
+The most fascinating things are the hoods all the ladies wear, covering
+just half their little fur caps. These are made of different colored
+cloths with embroidery of gold or silver. The fur lined slippers, too,
+are not bad, but I won’t tantalize you with descriptions. As I do not
+anticipate coming here again soon I mean to do the thing up this time. I
+skated today for the first time on a pond belonging to the Russian Yacht
+Club, to which we have received tickets, but there were only a few
+there, in fact the skating does not fairly begin until the Neva Skating
+Club is open, which is the swell place, where all the nobility go. It is
+gotten up by the English, and is a large square, fenced in with pine
+trees planted in the ice, situated on the Neva in the city, with nice
+houses to put on your skates and warm yourself, very necessary here, and
+several times during the season they give _fêtes_ by night. We have
+subscription tickets for the season, and I think it will be open in a
+few days. But with all this we must not forget our art, and here we have
+the magnificent gallery of the Hermitage, one of the finest though not
+the best known in Europe, and we can wander a whole winter through its
+endless galleries without exhausting the treasures.
+
+Sunday morning: I hope the little jacket and hat will be pleasing to
+Master Billy, which Mr. Burgess is to bring from Paris. I will get him a
+few of the Oriental and Cossack children’s dresses, which are stunning
+and very plentiful here, and then I think he will make a sensation on
+Beacon street.
+
+Well, my dear, I must close and dispatch this. Today we are to skate on
+the Yacht Club Pond, as they have a _fête_ there every Sunday, and
+tonight at midnight is the first _bal masqué_ at the Grand Opera. “On
+with the dance,” and _vive la jeunesse_! Last evening we passed at the
+English consul’s and met some very pretty young Cossacks, quite
+civilized, however. Charlie sends lots of love to you both. He is now in
+front of the fire with his feet in the air. Well, goodbye, and pinch
+Billy’s cheeks for me.
+
+ Nate.
+
+There is a pretty arrangement in Russian houses, which is not to be
+found elsewhere that I know of. Part of the large drawing-room,
+generally a corner by windows, is often fenced off by itself, raised on
+a platform, about a foot above the rest of the floor. Here is formed a
+sort of garden in the house. The light iron fence is covered with some
+green, flowering vine, and inside are some exotics, palms and other
+tropical plants, and the effect is enchanting. The ladies select this as
+their especial haunt, transforming it into a boudoir where they read
+their favorite novels, write their notes, or work at embroidery.
+
+I made my purchases of Circassian trinkets and toys, to send home to my
+nephews and nieces, in the _Passage_, a much frequented place for the
+idlers of the town, in imitation of the Burlington Arcade in London, and
+the _Passage des Panoramas_ of Paris.
+
+Those were pleasant skating parties we had on the Neva, in the open rink
+of the Club, where all the nobility and swells of the place came out to
+show their agility. Thanks to much practice and many a tumble upon the
+Frog Pond of Boston, I was a skillful skater, and my partners were also
+proficient in that difficult accomplishment. How we dashed along over
+the place where Peter the Great had often been paddled in his rough-hewn
+boat, now forward together arm-in-arm, now one backward and the other
+forward, each bending in time to the graceful curves of the outside
+edge!
+
+
+ TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ St. Petersburg, 27th Nov. Russian Calendar.
+ 9th Dec. American Calendar.
+
+ My dear Mamma.
+
+Your letter containing the tribute to Charlie Smith I found at the bank
+yesterday. How true and good the account of him is. You expected it
+would reach me in Paris, but you see we have got off before. We are
+getting somewhat settled here now, though we are not as yet fairly
+_lancés_ into the gay life. This is partly on account of the horrid
+weather, for ever since we have been here it has been gradually melting
+into slosh and the sleighing rapidly disappearing. Sudden changes are
+common, and today is cold again with snow falling.
+
+
+ GREAT SEA STREET.
+
+We have got a very nice little apartment on the great Moscow street,
+just in the centre of the city, and the house opposite being very low we
+get as much light as is possible anywhere.
+
+We are in a French _maison meublée_ with a very pleasant Arthur O’Leary
+style of _table d’hôte_, where we meet half a dozen different gentlemen
+from all kinds of countries, and we talk in French of the relative
+merits of our respective nationalities. In fact, we do more French
+talking here than in Paris. In the afternoon before dinner we take a
+lesson in Russian, our teacher using French as the basis of instruction,
+and I presume by the time I leave Russia, I shall be unable to speak any
+other language. It is considerable difficult though, but I go on the
+principle of learning everything.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ BOLSHAJA MORSKAJA (GREAT SEA STREET).
+]
+
+The Church of Sault Isaac, which is about the only sight we have seen,
+is perfectly gorgeous, with its huge pillars of malachite and _lapis
+lazuli_ from the mines of Demidoff. You enter, and a mysterious feeling,
+half oriental and half European, carries you away. The perpetual
+incense, the prostrate worshipers, the delicious temperature and the
+ornaments which combine the _luxe_ of Europe with the savage
+gorgeousness of Asia, form a whole which the churches of Italy do not
+have. Perhaps this combination of East and West is the great charm to
+the life in Russia. The toilettes of the ladies have come from the brain
+and fingers of Parisian _couturierès_ adapted to climate here. The
+Oriental element you see strong in the livery of servants and the
+uniforms of officers. The feeling of caste is very marked, and while the
+London flunkey beats the world in servility, and the Italian beggar in
+woe-begone dejection, the Russian servant seems to be afraid of you,
+recognizing the superior man in everything.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN ST. PETERSBURG.
+]
+
+
+ PRETTY RUSSIAN MAIDENS.
+
+I have not yet had a good chance to see all the different sleighs in
+their glory, but from what I have seen I think they will be stunning. We
+saw two pretty little Russian maidens, with their white furs, driving
+along in a jolly sleigh, the horse in the shafts trotting gaily, and one
+on his left cantering beside him.
+
+The omnibuses have three horses, but I have not seen a swell in his
+_troika_. The horses certainly trot faster than any except ours, and
+some I see on the Nevsky Prospect would make a very creditable show on
+the Brighton road.
+
+P. M. We have been out today to visit Mr. Pierce, (A relative of the
+Longfellows, who had been secretary of legation during President
+Pierce’s administration, and at the time we were in Russia connected
+with the Winans in the railroad building business.) who lives about four
+miles outside the city, and after passing the place by mistake and
+returning, we succeeded in finding him, and received a most hospitable
+reception. He seemed much inclined to help us in any way to have a jolly
+time. The sleighing was fine and the air deliciously cold and clear.
+
+The Russian youths at the theatres are a most enthusiastic crowd, and I
+have seen singers at the Opera, ballet dancers, or even a circus star
+called out five or six times. The Grand Opera House is very fine, and
+the ballet troupe gorgeous, quite as good, if not better, than the one
+in Paris. There is a theatre (Saint Michel) where they give French and
+German plays, so that one can have most everything.
+
+Well, I have lots of letters to write and no time to write any of them,
+so that this must suffice you for the week.
+
+ Nathan.
+
+The theatre is large and finely decorated. The Imperial box is always
+ready to be occupied by the Tsar or some member of his family, the
+sentries standing on each side of it in their gorgeous uniforms as
+motionless as statues. The pit is filled with the _viveurs_ of the city,
+young and old, who are in their stalls, lorgnettes in hand, watching
+every movement on the stage. Between the acts all file out into the
+smoking room, when a _papyrus_ is inhaled, and some cooling beverage
+partaken of in the interlude of the play.
+
+The ballet itself is a masterpiece of skill in its peculiar style. The
+dancers are trained carefully for years in a school under the Imperial
+patronage, and only appear upon the stage after having gone through a
+long apprenticeship. The story of the piece, of which the scene takes
+place in Russia or some of the Oriental countries, is most carefully
+worked up by the author, and entirely acted in pantomime and dance. All
+the passions of love, hatred, jealousy and revenge will be exhibited by
+motions aided by the changing strains of an excellent orchestra. When a
+favorite _danseuse_ comes bounding across the stage, attired in Russian
+costume, delineating in her movements sentiments which appeal to the
+pride or patriotism of the audience, the enthusiasm of the house knows
+no limit, and words and shouts of applause rend the air long and loud.
+
+
+ CHARLES K. SMITH.
+
+I went to New York on my seventeenth birthday, February 2, 1860, when I
+was a Freshman at Harvard College, to pay a visit to the family of David
+Lane, whose wife was Caroline Lamson, sister of Colonel Daniel S.
+Lamson, friends of my mother, who lived at 12 East 10th Street or
+Brevoort Place, as it was called. The firm was Lane, Lamson, & Co. The
+American flag in my trophy was given me by one of this family. It was on
+this New York visit that I made the acquaintance of Charlie Smith, and
+he seemed to take a great liking to me.
+
+In my diary of Feb. 2, 1860, I find, “In the evening people came, it
+being the Lanes’ reception evening, Mr. Smith and others.” This is the
+first mention of him. One evening, shortly after this, he invited us all
+to go to the Italian opera at the Academy of Music, in Brooklyn, and we
+accepted, driving over and back.
+
+The next mention is in regard to a visit to Weston, Mass., “Feb. 16,
+1860. Went to Weston in a glorious snow storm. Stunning dinner. Went for
+two of the party in an ox team to the station. Took profiles in the
+evening. Supper stunninger.
+
+Sunday, Feb. 19, 1860. There was no church but we went out in the sleigh
+to see Mr. Smith’s protégé, deaf and dumb. (A boy he was interested in
+and was having educated.) Good dinner.”
+
+Daniel S. Lamson, our especial host and entertainer in 1860, was
+commissioned Major 16th Mass. Infantry, Aug. 1, 1861, Lieutenant Colonel
+July 23, 1862, and resigned for disability Sept. 29, 1862. But this was
+the year before the War.
+
+I always called him “Uncle Dan” and do so still (1904).
+
+Charlie Smith was about ten years my senior, and that sort of regard
+from an elder is always appreciated by a boy. At the time of my visit to
+New York he was stopping at the Brevoort House. He was a member of the
+New York Club in Broadway, the crack one at that time, and won my heart
+and esteem at once. I was devoted to him. One day we strolled down
+Broadway and he treated me to oysters and a glass of beer, and I thought
+I was a man of the world.
+
+When we met at Weston he fascinated me more than ever, with his stories
+and songs, and we had many merry evenings. I was treated as a young man,
+not a boy, and I look back to those old times with unmingled delight.
+
+The letter I received from my mother announcing Charlie Smith’s death at
+San Francisco, I can now recall and explain. Of Boston parentage, he had
+gone to California in the early days, and made what at that time was
+considered a good fortune. He was killed accidentally by a shot when out
+gunning. He was so popular in the city of San Francisco that the body
+was laid in state in the rooms of the Union Club of that city, as a
+tribute to the appreciation in which he was held by its members.
+
+
+ THE NEW YORK CLUB.
+
+The New York Club, corner of Broadway and Great Jones street, I never
+visited with Charlie Smith, but during the War they moved to the Haight
+house, Fifth avenue and 15th street. That was the apogee of their
+greatness, and I was introduced and became a six months’ member. Great
+Jones street was near property which belongs to the Jones-De
+Trobriand-Post families.
+
+
+ TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Wednesday, Dec. 20, 1866.
+ Saint Petersburg.
+
+ My dear Mamma:
+
+I begin you a letter now, to finish sometime if possible. Your last one
+talked to me about the furs. I think you are quite right to want lots of
+Russian things, as they are fascinating, and you will probably never
+have as good an opportunity of getting them. Be easy, then, for I am to
+buy no end of various things, and send them all off to Boston, by the
+first Spring boat of Mr. Ropes. Mr. Prince, who is the head one of the
+house here, is very obliging, and being a good judge of furs, I think I
+can satisfy you in that line, though they won’t be in time for this
+winter. I shall buy the skins only, and you can have them made up in
+Boston to suit you, as the fur goods they wear here are different from
+ours, and might not please you. For instance, I have not seen a pair of
+cuffs in St. Petersburg. I shall get handsome, dark Siberian sable
+skins, worthy of a princess, Persian table cloths, malachite ornaments,
+slippers, Circassian silver, etc., etc., and also something which will
+make you very happy—a little box or two of the stunning tea, which is
+brought across from Pekin in caravans.
+
+We are to dine with Mr. Prince next Tuesday, which is Christmas day, and
+have since had to decline an invitation for the same day, given us by
+the English Ambassador.
+
+
+ EMPEROR ALEXANDER II.—PRESENTATION.
+
+Two days ago we were presented to the Emperor. We were quite alone, no
+other people being presented the same day. We marched through suites of
+apartments, and were formally ushered into His Majesty’s billiard room,
+where we were received by two of the chamberlains, and from there we
+went into the reception room where we soon had a little conversation
+with the head of all the Russias in our native (?) language of French.
+He is very nice, I give you my word, but we were disappointed in not
+seeing the Empress, though this comes some other time.
+
+We have a good many occasions of airing our French in the _beau monde_
+of Russia, and I find that there is no trouble with it; the only thing
+to do being to go right along regardless of errors, for I see that
+although I do not speak very well, there are plenty who speak quite as
+bad and worse, and this being a neutral ground of course one is bolder.
+However, a great many of the well educated speak English admirably.
+
+All this goes to show that we are in for society now, and have to await
+quietly a round of balls, operas, and dinners, and return our calls most
+punctiliously, a form of etiquette about which the Russians are very
+exacting.
+
+We went to a jolly young count’s (Koucheleff Besborodko) the other day,
+who immediately made us at home with a delicious cigar. His house, take
+it all in all, was about as lovely as any I have ever seen, with an
+Oriental smoking room, a Pompadour boudoir, a Chinese room, a long
+gallery of paintings, an immense dancing hall, and a conservatory
+arranged with grottoes and cascades, a rustic bridge, and an original
+old statue of a satyr, picked up in Rome. The Count is a great
+connoisseur of art, and his collection in all its branches is
+magnificent, with souvenirs of every city of Europe, and all the ages of
+the world, enough to drive to despair any such little dabblers as
+myself.
+
+I have met quite a charming young Austrian lady, who lives with the
+Spanish Ambassador’s wife, but I shall take good care of my heart and
+bring it back to Boston.
+
+Our acquaintances, thus far, are eminently diplomatic, as you see, the
+English consul’s family especially being very attentive.
+
+We skated yesterday on the Neva Club place for the first time, as the
+grounds are only just opened, but today it is thawing again, and we must
+wait a bit for it to freeze.
+
+I think you would be rather frightened at the way they drive here in the
+sleighs, rushing off as fast as possible, yelling to people and
+carriages to get out of the way, and then bringing the horse up suddenly
+with a droll sound—bhr-r-r-r!—which corresponds to “whoa” in English. In
+some letter I will describe a sleigh for you, but they are all alike,
+from the Emperor’s to the street cabs, except in finish. There are very
+few covered vehicles here to hire, and you always go, by night and day,
+in an open sleigh, so you can judge from that, that the cold is not so
+awfully severe here as you imagine. We take very good care not to be
+frozen, as we both have a horror of the amusement, but enough for today.
+
+ Nate.
+
+
+ THE PRESENTATION.
+
+The Hon. Cassius M. Clay, the American Minister, presented C. A.
+Longfellow and myself to the Emperor.
+
+
+ THE INVITATION.
+
+ Translated from the French.
+
+ Ministry of the Imperial Court.
+ Direction of Ceremonies.
+ St. Petersburg, 5–17 December, 1866.
+
+ The Grand Master of Ceremonies has the honor to inform Mr. N.
+ Appleton, that he will have the honor of being presented to His
+ Majesty the Emperor tomorrow, Tuesday, 6–18 December, at half past one
+ in the afternoon at the Winter Palace.
+
+ You are requested to come to the door of Her Majesty the Empress.
+
+ [Seal]
+ [See binding of this book.]
+
+The invitation was gladly accepted, not only from the desire of meeting
+in person the Autocrat of all the Russias, but also because once done
+your name was put upon the list of distinguished visitors to the
+capital, and, as a matter of course, you were invited to all the balls
+and festivities of the season. General Clay called for us in his sleigh,
+and we drove to the Winter Palace, where we were met by some of the
+officers of the staff, on horseback. The regulation dress prescribed for
+us was “black or blue dress coat, black vest and pantaloons, white
+cravat and white kids,” as stated in a marginal note by General Clay.
+
+Having been ushered into the presence of the Emperor, as detailed in my
+letter to my mother, we had a little chat with him, principally
+answering some questions about America, and then retired, and went down
+stairs.
+
+While waiting in the hall below for our sleigh to drive up, the Tsar
+came bounding down the staircase, followed by his favorite Newfoundland
+dog, with which he was often photographed, and before jumping into his
+sleigh and dashing off on some call, he stopped and exchanged a few more
+words with us. Indeed the whole interview made a most agreeable
+impression upon me.
+
+
+ GORTSCHAKOFF.
+
+ “The days when the great Nicholas leaned on him sweep back from the
+ mists of the buried years. In his old age, he is the Richelieu of
+ another Tsar, for Russia draws the sword in fight once more.”
+
+ —_Col. Richard Henry Savage_ on Gortschakoff in 1876.
+
+I was naturally very much delighted with the prospect of being presented
+to the distinguished veteran Russian diplomatist and chancellor of the
+empire. This occurred in December of this year, 1866. General Clay had
+arranged the interview beforehand with Count Gortschakoff, and one
+morning called for us at our hotel in his sleigh to take us there.
+Another person was of the party, and strangely enough a negro, a certain
+Captain Chester, who was out in Russia on some special business.
+
+We started off through the cold, clear air, and were soon at the door of
+the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, where we were expected, and ushered in.
+We first met Mr. Westerman, a gentleman who for some time had been Count
+Gortschakoff’s right hand man and assistant in the tremendous duties of
+his office, and were then shown by him into the private cabinet of the
+chancellor.
+
+Our interview was, of course, not lengthy, but most interesting. The old
+gentleman chatted with us very pleasantly on different topics, and in
+his manner and reception of us was as simple and unaffected as a child.
+He looked hale and hearty, and as though he had before him many years,
+which he meant to devote to aiding the development of Russian progress
+and civilization, and he did live two years after the death of the Tsar
+and died in Baden-Baden March 11, 1883.
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ St. Petersburg,
+ Thursday, Dec. 27, 1866.
+
+ My dear Mamma.
+
+Another week has glided rapidly by, finding us still at St. Petersburg,
+and I have two of your letters to acknowledge, the last one bearing date
+of December 9th.
+
+
+ TO CRONSTADT—AN AMERICAN PARTY.
+
+What have we been doing? Among other things yesterday a party of
+Americans went to see Cronstadt. We were, General Roberts, U. S. A., a
+good specimen of an American general (Benjamin Stone Roberts, graduate
+of West Point, served in the Mexican war and the Rebellion, brevetted
+Brig. Gen. U. S. A., and Major Gen. U. S. V., inventor of the Roberts
+breech-loading rifle, which he was trying to introduce to the Russians.
+He was a remarkably genial fellow, and had lots of good stories which he
+delighted in telling.), Mr. Sawyer, correspondent of the New York
+_Herald_, and a very pleasant companion, C. A. L., and myself, and we
+had a Russian colonel put at our disposal to open the gates of
+everything. We went down by rail to a place opposite Cronstadt, and then
+crossed over the Gulf of Finland on the ice, with two funny little
+Finnish ponies to each sledge, one trotting and the other galloping, but
+going like the wind, and doing the five miles in less than half an hour,
+without lessening speed once. It was very cold and our fur coats were
+necessary. We visited some of the forts, and afterwards breakfasted at
+the Navy and Army Club of the place. The whole effect of the day and the
+adventures were eminently Russian. We had to get up long before
+daylight, and saw the sun rise about 9 o’clock, something one does not
+often see here, as we are generally asleep at that time.
+
+
+ THE IMPERIAL STABLES.
+
+One day last week we visited the Imperial stables, which I thought very
+shabby, although many of the horses were stunning, and afterwards we
+examined all the swell carriages and sledges, which have been used at
+coronations, weddings and _fêtes_ from the time of Peter the Great to
+the Princess Dagmar. They showed all varieties of taste, and are more
+magnificent than those at the Trianon at Versailles.
+
+On Christmas Day Charlie and self dined with Mr. Prince, and attended
+just before dinner the christening of his youngest child. It was quite a
+large dinner, Anglo-American, and most decidedly respectable. It is
+curious how very few American families there are living in St.
+Petersburg. Last Sunday we dined with Mr. Whistler, (George W., father
+of the artist James Abbott McNeill W.) who is one of the gentlemen
+connected with the Winans car manufactory. There were about twelve, all
+gentlemen, and all Americans, indeed it included almost all the American
+males here,—General Clay, and the Consul, Mr. Winans, Mr. Pierce, and
+others, and it was jolly enough.
+
+On Saturday next Charlie and I think of starting for Moscow, spending
+ten days, or so, and then returning, as we give up the Odessa plan, but
+we have not quite decided.
+
+Well, I must stop now, as I go in a minute to drive with the Spanish
+Ambassador and his wife, the Duke and Duchess d’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado,
+but whether it is a “_grand diner diplomatique_” or a “_petite causerie
+intime_” I know not.
+
+Friday morning: I have just time to finish and dispatch this now, before
+going out to perform the numerous last duties on the eve of our
+departure for Moscow. Cards must be sent round, etc. etc.
+
+The dinner yesterday was very good, rather in the heavy diplomatic line,
+old swells with countless decorations, and jewelled dowagers nodding
+over the table, with a sprinkling of youthful _attachés_ and officers
+filling up the corners. Later in the evening I went to a ball at the
+rooms of the Artists’ Club, and danced a little.
+
+Well, I must rush out, one is always hurried here, as I have before
+observed. My next will probably be from Moscow, where I can give you an
+account of our cousin Eliza, and deliver her your present; also, the
+Kremlin, and the tea-drinking gardens. A hard snow storm which looks
+like continuing.
+
+ Adieu. Nate.
+
+
+ ROSS WINANS.
+
+In a letter from my mother visiting Baltimore in 1852, to my sister and
+myself in Boston, she wrote:—“This morning we have been to see the most
+superb house in the country, built by a gentleman of the name of Winans,
+who has been employed by the Russian government in the construction of
+railroads and cars, and has made an immense fortune.” This letter was
+sealed according to the custom of the time with a red wafer.
+
+Ross Winans, a native of New Jersey, was an inventor and manufacturer of
+railroad machines in Baltimore, and undertook the Russian railroads by
+the advice of George W. Whistler. He died in Baltimore, in 1877, at the
+age of eighty-one. He had two sons who went to Russia; Thomas de Kay,
+who died in Newport, R. I., June 11, 1878, aged fifty-eight, and William
+Louis, who never returned to this country, but went to England after the
+completion of the St. Petersburg and Moscow railroad, and died in
+London, June 25, 1897, aged seventy-five.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER FIFTH.
+ MOSCOW. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS.
+ TROTTING IN RUSSIA.
+
+ “Say, Mandarin, fresh from the Orient old,
+ Will they give us the queue when they give us the gold?
+ Rise, Curtin, arise! Let the Manchu declare—
+ Is he under the paw of the Great Northern Bear?
+
+ You uncovered the Pole, brought Pan Michael to light,
+ Ran Sienkievitch down through the vast polar night;
+ Then, skirting the coast to the isles of the Celt,
+ You caught the sweet ballads that make the heart melt,
+
+ Thus linking two worlds. Nate Appleton tried,
+ But the Gulf was too deep, or the Isthmus too wide.
+ Brother Pratt had the keynote—he doesn’t know which,
+ Art, music, the lingo of Ivanovitch.”
+ —_James Herbert Morse._
+
+ Harvard College Class of 1863. Poem at Class Dinner of 1901.
+
+
+ FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
+
+The journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow is a long ride, and in winter
+when the days are short, seems to be a night which will never end. You
+take the train in the afternoon and have not accomplished many scores of
+versts, or disposed of many hours, before twilight fades into dark, and
+the great snow plain on every side loses its brilliant whiteness, and
+has a grey and mysterious look. So, too, in the morning, though late,
+the sun is not more than fairly up when you behold in the distance the
+gilded domes and fairy minarets of the old Russian metropolis, as they
+first appear, and you feel that at last you are in the heart of the
+Empire. But the hours passed in the cars are far from tedious. “Car” is
+the word that can be used, for those on that railroad line much more
+resembled what we have in the United States, than anything to be found
+in Europe. They were divided into small rooms or compartments, a large
+saloon being left in the middle, and a passage going the length of the
+car, so that you could pass from one end to the other, and get off on
+either platform. At that time no regular beds were made up, as in our
+“sleepers,” but the cushions could be comfortably arranged and the weary
+traveller repose very satisfactorily. There was, too, a room overhead
+for smoking, which you entered by climbing up a narrow, ladder-like
+staircase, and where the fragrant Havana could be enjoyed in security.
+Double doors and windows kept out the excessive cold, and a good stove
+plentifully supplied with wood made the temperature within all that was
+to be desired. The buffets on the road could not be excelled, and a
+_table d’hôte_ dinner was taken at one of the stations about six
+o’clock, which offered a glittering array of glass and silver as you
+entered on leaving the train, while the display of viands alone would
+tempt one, were he not ravenous with travel.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ THE KREMLIN, MOSCOW.
+]
+
+The occupants of the car, in an easy fellow-feeling way, soon get
+acquainted with each other, and throwing off the reserve they might
+otherwise have, mix together in democratic freedom. Their nationalities
+are soon known, if not their names, for there is always one man aboard
+who has a knack of finding them out and of communicating adroitly his
+information to the others, and stories of travelling adventures in
+different countries, with accounts of the queer persons met, and the
+dangers escaped, beguile the hours.
+
+St. Petersburg is entirely a modern city, and a modern city like other
+European capitals, or, rather, like the modern parts of them. The
+stranger going there expects, very naturally, to see predominant the
+stamp of Muscovite nationality but he does not find it, as the principal
+public buildings were designed by foreign architects, and show plainly
+traces of the country from which the brain that gave them birth has
+come.
+
+Moscow, fortunately, is quite different, and is well worthy of being the
+place where the Tsars are crowned. Any one who dropped down their
+blindfold would, as soon as the bandage was removed from his eyes, cry
+out like the soldiers of Napoleon’s army, as its green roofs and gilded
+cupolas met their anxious gaze, “Moscow, Moscow!”
+
+No city in the world has a more marked style, which is neither of the
+East nor of the West, but rather suggestions of both. Constantinople,
+Venice, Vienna, all can be seen in part, and as you look at it calmly,
+in awe and admiration, you can only say, “This place is unique, it
+resembles nothing else,” and you know why it is so, in reflecting that
+here is the old homestead of the great Slavonic race, a race
+sufficiently different from all others to be well warranted in leaving
+one typical city as a monument.
+
+
+ FIRST LETTER FROM MOSCOW.
+
+To my mother from Moscow I wrote as follows:—I cannot date this as there
+is no French paper about, and also, what with the Russian and our
+difference in the calendar, time is considerably mixed up. This cannot
+be better shown than by the agreeable fact that we have two Christmas
+Days this year, one which we passed in St. Petersburg, and the other
+which comes next week, when we are to see a real German Christmas tree
+at the Carnatzes.
+
+Well, then to begin, Mrs. Appleton, we are now in Moscow, a truly
+Russian city, and as different to St. Petersburg as Boston is to Paris.
+We left St. P. on Saturday afternoon, and after a journey of hours, with
+several Americans in the train, we arrived here, and are comfortably
+established in the Hotel Dusaux.
+
+I first went to find Curtin, my old classmate and the secretary of our
+Legation, who was much surprised at seeing me, and said he would do his
+best possible to make our stay pleasant. We then called on my cousin
+Eliza Carnatz, and had no difficulty in finding her and making ourselves
+known, and she was delighted at seeing her relatives and appreciated
+your present, which I am happy to say has finally reached its
+destination safely. This picture (The letter-head showing a colored view
+of the Kremlin.) will do for your scrap book, so I will leave it entire.
+
+In the evening Curtin took us to a Russian party, and I think I passed
+about the pleasantest evening there in Europe. It was at the house of
+General Behring, a lineal descendant of the one who discovered the
+Straits, and the _soirée_ began with private theatricals in Russian and
+French, afterwards dancing, then the mazourka, then a sit down supper,
+the universal custom at parties here, and finally the _cotillon_,
+something as with us, and home between four and five.
+
+The General received us with charming cordiality, and would make us
+believe we were doing him a favor in coming, and his lovely
+daughters,—their mother being dead,—acted well in the plays, and did the
+honors of the house most gracefully.
+
+There were several pretty Russian young ladies there, and many were the
+sentiments and toasts for the friendship between Russia and America, the
+two great rising nations of the world!
+
+The young ladies here nearly all speak English well, besides French,
+German, Russian, and also, sometimes, Italian. This is true of many of
+the young men, too, and although this seems to make us very ignorant,
+still, in the matter of general education, the classics, philosophy,
+mathematics, etc., I imagine we are their superiors. Moreover, languages
+are almost a necessity here, while with us they are only a very
+desirable luxury.
+
+Wednesday p. m.: The day after the ball we did not rise much before
+dinner time, when we dined with the Carnatzes. The party consisted of
+Coz. Eliza and husband, Mr. Watson, the father of his first wife, a
+brother, a French lady friend, and one or two others. It seemed quite
+natural there, as there were several family portraits on the walls, and
+her album was filled with photographs of all of us. We had a quietly
+pleasant evening, with long chats about Russia and America, family
+events, literature, politics,—and drank tea indefinitely.
+
+
+ RUSSIAN TEA-DRINKING.
+
+Tea is the national drink of the Russians, and a genuine tea-drinking
+restaurant is very curious. We went to one the other evening which is
+the resort of the _isvoschiks_ (cabbies) and the peasants. Your true
+Russ orders a pot of tea and another larger one of hot water, the latter
+of which is often replenished, and he will sit over it several hours,
+drinking fifteen or twenty cups of tea, and not finishing until he can
+get no more color out of it. What do your delicate nerves think of this?
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ DRINKING TEA.
+]
+
+The tea is wonderfully good, and the commonest stuff here would put to
+the blush the very best hotel article in America and much of that you
+have at family tea parties also.
+
+Yesterday morning we went with Mr. Young, a very pleasant and attentive
+young American from Niagara, who has been here several years in the
+business of agricultural implements, to see the Kremlin, and all the big
+bells therein, which are truly wonderful, and can make much noise when
+they try, and in the evening to the Carnatz’s box at the ballet of the
+Grand Theatre. The building is considered, perhaps, the finest in
+Europe, and the ballet itself as is always in Russia, remarkably fine.
+After the ballet Charlie and I went to a ball at the Kosakoff’s, where
+we had a good idea of a fine Moscow house and the Muscovite _beau
+monde_. Dancing, supper, music, etc., and finally I had for my partner
+in the German cotillon the prettiest girl in Moscow, a Miss Martinoff.
+
+
+ FAST TROTTERS IN MOSCOW.
+
+We went out today to the race course, where they often have races in
+sleighs, and saw the sports of Moscow exercising their fast trotters.
+The scene was very like ours at home, and we conversed on the relative
+merits of Russian and American trotters, and one enthusiastic old Russ
+wanted to bet two hundred thousand roubles on his country, so that if I
+buy and import “Dexter” (The fastest trotter of the time.) I can make a
+goodly sum.
+
+
+ SNOW HILLS.
+
+The snow hills are a national institution on the same principle as our
+coasting, only the hills are artificial and are all ice, and you take a
+lady on the sled with you, and dash down like the wind. There are two
+hills opposite, so that they go from one to the other and then return.
+
+ Remembrance to all,
+ Nate.
+
+
+ THE CARNATZ CONNECTION.
+
+My diary when a boy of fourteen had the following entry:—“January 16,
+1858. Our Russian cousin sent us some nice things; among them were a
+malachite pin and sleeve buttons, and one of the medals thrown to the
+peasants at the coronation of the present Emperor Alexander.”
+
+My mother’s mother, Mrs. Jesse Sumner, was a daughter of Mrs. Nathaniel
+Coffin, whose son Thomas established himself in business in Moscow about
+1829, and died in Perovo, Russia, in 1832. His daughter Eliza married
+Mr. Carnatz, a German. In 1870, we received the intelligence that they
+proposed to remove to Dresden.
+
+
+ THE CARNATZ CHILDREN.
+
+Nothing has ever shown me more conclusively how easy it is for children,
+when very young, to learn and speak several languages, than my
+experience with my little Carnatz cousins. Of course being Russians by
+birth, that may naturally have been their first language, but their
+mother, who insisted upon being an American, the country of her father,
+had them at once instructed, probably by herself, in the English tongue.
+Then her husband, their father, being a German the language of the
+Fatherland had its proper place. After that came French, which was the
+cosmopolitan language of all well-to-do people in the Russian empire.
+They could rattle off these various languages “as easily as rolling off
+a log,” and so can any one who begins them in childhood.
+
+
+ A RUSSIAN MANSION.
+
+A good type of the elegant Russian mansion was large, made of wood and
+only two stories, with a long array of rooms running _en suite_. At the
+door stood the ever watchful porter, ready to take the _shubes_ and
+overshoes of the guests, and never forgetting to whom each belonged,
+resplendent in his showy livery with the eagles embroidered in the wide
+border of his cape, looking the picture of comfort as he stood by the
+blazing fire, the thermometer outside showing a temperature well below
+the zero of Fahrenheit. Beyond him, at the foot of the stairs, a huge,
+stuffed black bear stood erect, in his paws a salver, with a pitcher and
+glasses, as if bidding you welcome to the hospitalities of the house.
+
+
+ THE CITY AND ITS ENVIRONS.
+
+We went on many excursions in the city and its environs. The Kremlin,
+with its endless interesting objects, the churches so numerous that they
+say there is one for every day in the year, and the old historical
+monuments from which can be gleaned a knowledge of all the phases from
+barbarism to civilization through which the vast Muscovite nationality
+has passed, were carefully and intelligently studied. We would ramble
+for hours through the curious bazaar, the Gostinny Dvor, gazing at the
+different wares exposed, talking and bargaining with the shrewd Jew
+shopkeepers, and picking up many curiosities, from Persian talismans to
+Siberian rugs, which had found their way to this cosmopolitan mart in
+boats through the Caspian Sea and up the curving Volga River, or in
+caravans all along the dreary plains and through the steep mountain
+ranges, from the interior of China and Hindostan. Malachite from the
+mines in the Ural Mountains, fragrant packages of high-priced tea,
+chain-armor from Circassia, and quaint Albanian gems, gorgeous colored
+silks, pipes of every description, in short, a perfect medley of
+_bric-a-brac_, we hunted up leisurely, sending daily some newly
+discovered treasure to our collections.
+
+
+ TROTTING IN RUSSIA.
+
+The trotting during the winter months takes place on the ice, when a
+large river or pond is accessible; as, for instance, on the Neva itself
+at St. Petersburg, which is the favorite place of all. But a well made
+track on the frozen snow is nearly, if not quite, as good, and this can
+be found and laid out anywhere. The course, which is one or two versts
+long,—the Russian verst is 3501 English feet,—is in the form of an
+ellipse; that is, the length of two of the curving sides is much greater
+than that of the other two, as is often seen in American tracks, where a
+long and narrow piece of ground only can be obtained. But now comes the
+great peculiarity of the Russian race, which is, that the horses do not
+start or trot together. One starts from a line in the centre of one of
+the long sides of the course, while the other starts from a line exactly
+opposite and on the other side. Should there be four horses entered they
+have two parallel tracks close to each other, and for six horses three
+of these ellipses, and so on. When there is more than one track the
+effect is most peculiar: for, at the signal for starting, the horses all
+seem to be rushing off in different directions.
+
+Then, too, the horses all start from a standstill, each one toeing the
+line before the word “go” is given. Of course, in this system, there is
+not the excitement of seeing the horses together, changing places, now
+one ahead, and now another; those who break held in, and all trying to
+secure and keep the pole from the others. They merely trot round the
+course at their greatest speed and the one which returns to his goal or
+starting point first, is declared the winner. In case of breaking, a
+certain number of steps at a gallop only is allowed during the heat, and
+any horse that is not brought down into this allotted number is thrown
+out of the races by the judges, and loses his chance. It is common to
+have a running horse by the side of the trotter to excite him to his
+utmost speed, but generally this horse is not harnessed, but is mounted
+by a skillful rider, who keeps close alongside of the other, knowing
+exactly the pace at which he can go without breaking.
+
+The sleighs used are very light, seemingly made of some kind of
+basket-work, and also very low, the driver being seated not more than a
+foot off the ground or snow, bracing himself with his feet in a sort of
+stirrup on either side. Low vehicles are also used for racing on the
+gravel track, and primitive they are in appearance, a narrow board
+supported on the axles, with four small wheels nearly the same size, and
+the American twowheeled spider-sulky has come into use, as the small
+wheeled vehicles detract from the speed, on account of a badly regulated
+centre of gravity and excessive friction.
+
+For getting the greatest pulling power out of the horse with the least
+fatigue, and leaving all the muscles unimpeded and in full play, the
+Russian method of harnessing is excellent. The shafts of the _drosky_ or
+sleigh, the collar of the horse and the duga meet at one point on the
+horse’s shoulder, and at this point is all the strain of pulling. There
+are neither traces nor breeching to interfere with the action. The
+collar, made of wood, is carefully fitted to the horse’s neck, and while
+the shafts are inclined to press it _against_ the neck, the duga exerts
+a corresponding pressure out on either side, and these three parts of
+the harness are so lashed together by leather thongs that they remain
+firmly in place, and it is a rare sight to find a horse with his neck
+galled from exercise.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ A COURSIER.
+]
+
+The horses are put on the track very young, at the age of two, three or
+four years, and after that time, are found rather to lose than increase
+their speed. Perhaps there may be peculiarities in the breed which gives
+them their greatest strength when young, or it may be the climate brings
+out forces which in milder regions it takes more time to develop.
+Certain it is that the Russian horse, of which the Orloff is the
+handsomest type, when taken to a foreign country soon loses his grace of
+action and fire. At home they are the _beau ideal_ of beauty, with great
+natural knee action, arching necks, distended nostrils and flashing
+eyes, but it has often happened that the same horse which would attract
+the attention of every passer by on the Nevski Prospect, when seen in
+the Bois de Boulogne or Hyde Park has lost his distinguishing traits and
+seems but an ordinary animal.
+
+As there is always a question as to the beauty of “banging” the horse’s
+tail in accordance with the English taste, or of leaving the natural
+growth as was more common in America some years ago than at present, I
+would state that the tail in Russia is left as nature made it, long and
+waving, and sometimes even trailing on the ground. And for another
+disputed question, whether or not it is beneficial to clip the horse in
+winter, without touching on the numerous arguments which humanity,
+convenience and preference have brought plausibly up on either side, I
+will simply say that in Russia it is the universal rule to leave the
+horses, whether they be for work or for pleasure, with the long-haired
+coat, God has given them, untouched all through the months when they
+need some protection against the cold.
+
+
+ TO HARNESS A HORSE A LA RUSSE.
+
+First put on the bridle, which is merely a headstall without blinders.
+Saddle and surcingle together. Collar and breeching together. Put the
+horse in the shafts and put on the hoop, strapping the shafts and hoop
+together with a long strap, which is afterwards wound around the shafts.
+There is a strap on each shaft just opposite the saddle. The one on the
+left shaft goes over the saddle, passing through rings, and is wound
+around the right shaft. The one on the right shaft goes through loops
+under the surcingle and is wound around the left shaft. These straps
+help to keep the shafts firmly in place. The horse pulls from his
+collar. The ends of the shafts and hoop must just meet, the hoop going
+inside of the shafts and pressing them out. Of the four straps from the
+top of the hoop, two go under the check strap and fasten to the bit
+ring, and the other two, with the loops through which the reins pass,
+are fastened to the shafts, behind the hoop. The bit should be simple
+snaffle.
+
+The running horse is on the left side. A strap goes from his bit to the
+shaft of the wheeler, passing through the martingale ring. This strap is
+quite long, and gives him considerable play. The rein, _only one_, goes
+from the outside ring of the bit.
+
+For a pair of horses there are no saddles. The traces are fastened to
+leather rings on the collar. A surcingle is fastened on the traces and
+passes under each horse, close behind his forelegs.
+
+They always drive with four reins but this is useless.
+
+The ridiculous custom of having blinders over the horse’s eyes is
+unknown to the Russians, except as imported from other countries. The
+animal is allowed to see for himself on all sides, pleasant or ugly
+sights, and is not treated like an infant, whom his human doctors
+suppose is going to be frightened at what may meet his gaze. Sensible
+both for horse and man is this, as the former doubtless derives pleasure
+in his way from the sights of the street or the scenery of the country,
+while the latter enjoys seeing what is one of the finest points of a
+horse—his eye.
+
+Check reins are happily not a part of the Russian harness.
+
+The men who congregate about the race-course are pretty nearly the same
+types in all the nations of the world. There are the elaborate dandies,
+known as _petits crévès_ in France, who go because it is the fashion to
+see and be seen, whether or not they have any taste for the racing
+itself, and can tell one horse from another. There are gentlemen who
+really are devoted to the noble animal, who are interested in improving
+the breeds, and who, if possessed of fortune, generally have some of
+their own stock taking part in the races. Then comes the sporting
+fraternity of all degrees, horse dealers sharp for making a good bargain
+in buying or selling, trainers, jockeys, stable boys and besides them
+plenty of loafers who are there for betting on the race, or for “turning
+an honest (?) penny” in any way that their wits suggest.
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+Moscow, Dec. 27, 1866. This is dated by the Russian calendar, which is
+just twelve days behind ours, so you can calculate. I have a few minutes
+before going to dine with Cousin Eliza to begin this and I will dip
+promiscuously into some of the events of the past week.
+
+
+ THE CHRISTMAS TREE.
+
+Let me see,—Christmas has come and gone for the second time this year,
+and we have seen the way it is done in Russia. It is the same old
+story—a tree, _arbre de Noël_,—everywhere, though the custom has been
+brought here by the Germans.
+
+We went to the Carnatzes about half-past seven, and they being German of
+course all the arrangements were _a la mode Allemande_. The tree always
+comes off Christmas eve, and is generally a family gathering, gotten up
+especially for the amusement of the little ones. A large tree just like
+ours at home, greeted our gaze on entering, placed on a table,
+brilliantly lighted, covered with all kinds of things, bonbons, gold
+balls, etc., topped off with an American flag in compliment to us. The
+presents were all lying around on tables, and the tree remains untouched
+for a week, so that poor children can come in and enjoy it on different
+days.
+
+Charlie and I were not forgotten, and we received each a portfolio
+filled with different views of Moscow.
+
+Every guest, on leaving, also, takes a huge box filled with almonds,
+sugar plums, cakes, etc., etc., quite enough to make you ill for a week.
+The party was not very large, and we broke up just before midnight to go
+to the French Catholic church to hear the mass, but the place was
+jammed, and we did not stay long. Charlie and I then jumped into our
+sleigh, and the great bells of the Kremlin and the neighboring churches
+were booming all around.
+
+
+ THE PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL.
+
+We wended our way up the hill and pushed into the Patriarchal Cathedral
+of Russia, where all the Tsars are crowned, and here we saw the Russian
+mass. The crowd was so dense that it was impossible to penetrate more
+than a few feet into the church, and we soon left.
+
+
+ THE RUSSIAN BATH.
+
+One evening last week we did the Russian bath. It is perfectly
+delicious, a general steaming all over first, and then you are bodily
+champooed by the careful attendant,—the soap suds being, so to speak,
+whipped in with a bunch of rushes flourished round you,—and then recline
+at your ease, as long as you please, and finally cool off with
+differently moderated showers of water.
+
+We have made the acquaintance of a Mr. Arnoldi, who has a charming wife.
+He is a great lover of horse flesh, and took us over a stable, where we
+saw splendid specimens of the different types of the Russian horse, and
+afterwards we went to the trotting track and saw the sports with their
+fast trotters. The scene was not unlike Riverside Park at home, and very
+interesting to me. They want to get up international races.
+
+We afterwards dined with Mr. A., quite _en famille_.
+
+
+ THE MAZOURKA.
+
+We have been to another party at the aunt’s of my lovely Miss M—, and I
+again watched her going through the graceful slides of the mazourka.
+
+There are two public balls every night now during the holidays,
+sometimes a masquerade at the Nobility Club or the Grand Opera, or again
+a dance or concert at the German Club, and so on, but the masquerades,
+after Paris, are tame.
+
+The holidays are much made of here, and every one celebrates them by
+getting tipsy, for the Russian, besides his everlasting tea, also
+manages to dispose of considerable _vodki_, the alcoholic drink of the
+country. (Spelled _vodki_ and _vodka_, distilled from rye, also from
+potatoes.)
+
+To a hard working Yankee it is odd, the slowness and want of ambition of
+all. For instance, Sunday is a holiday, and the day before he prepares
+himself for it, and the day after he gets sober, and as there is on the
+average one fête day during the week, when the same game is tried, it
+does not leave many days for work.
+
+
+ OFF TO ST. PETERSBURG.
+
+Thus you see the days slip along on golden wings, and your _flâneur_
+looks with horror on the bore of packing up his traps, but we may be off
+on Saturday to St. Petersburg. I have your letter No. 11, with the
+Boston gayeties. I will get you some nice postage stamps some time, but
+for the present these will suffice. Accept, also, the photograph of
+Chawls and myself _à la Russe_, with the Kremlin in the background, and
+us in the front, done up in our _shubes_ and boots, and waiting the
+approach of many bears. (See frontispiece.)
+
+Fear not for our ears and noses now, for although the thermometer keeps
+down steadily in the region of “Niblo” (Meaning zero, an old joke of
+First Lieutenant Peleg W. Blake of the Fifth Mass. Battery, who when
+speaking of the weather always called zero “Niblo,”) we are much more
+comfortable in the streets than we are at home, where it seems to be the
+fashion to be cold always out of doors.
+
+The photographs of Moscow are the best in the world. (I had never seen
+such beautifully glazed ones at that time.) We do not get much news here
+about Americans, as there is no French paper in Moscow, and even if
+there were there would be no time to read it, we are in such a whirl of
+excitement. Going to bed at four gives you a short morning.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ THE STAIGG PORTRAIT.
+]
+
+I read the President’s (Johnson’s) message with interest, and great
+satisfaction in regard to everything except the internal politics of the
+United States. How pleasant, too, is the report of the Treasury. People
+here look upon our diminishing debt with perfect amazement. Indeed the
+influence which our country is giving to the world is more perceptible
+every day and very noticeable here.
+
+We are of course much interested in the great yacht race, and want
+brother Tom to come over in the Spring, and give the graceful little
+_Alice_ another wetting in the Channel. Tell him she must not go home in
+May. I want to sail in her once in the summer. What a carnival there
+will be in Paris, and how much nicer to be a “swell” in Moscow than an
+individual in the former.
+
+ Well, adieu. Nate.
+
+
+ FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON.
+
+
+ THE STAIGG PORTRAIT.
+
+ Dec. 27, 1866.
+
+You can judge of my amazement, my excitement, on going up to the
+drawing-room after dinner on Christmas Day, to find before my eyes a
+portrait of you, my dear Nathan, gracefully standing with your arm
+holding the bridle of your horse, and looking so like life that I really
+started, reading the announcement, put on by Hattie:—“By Atlantic
+Telegraph, St. Petersburg. A Merry Christmas!”—Why, I felt that it had
+actually come from there! It is a charming picture. What a villain you
+are! Of course it is not finished, and is to go back to have some
+alterations.
+
+Oh you sly boy! Coming up from Lynn (Our summer home at the beach.)
+every day to give me this delightful surprise! _I thank you._
+
+We had a charming Christmas dinner, and, will you believe it? the
+presents for the third time were so hid they had great difficulty in
+finding them, and some were obliged to be told.
+
+
+ NEW YEAR’S DAY IN MOSCOW.
+
+ Russ., January 2, 1867.
+
+I begin you this, Dear “Mum,” from Moscow, but I may finish it in St.
+Petersburg. Children of chance, that we are, how dare we calculate on
+even the events of a few days? With this moral question at the
+beginning, I will tell you that we are still here, and have been through
+various adventures. Among others was the dedication of a church in the
+Russo Greek style, and the magnates of the city thought we had better
+see it. I did not object, as a dinner formed an important feature.
+Accordingly, one of the selectmen of Moscow routed us out of bed, and I
+gave him audience in my _robe de nuit_, and after he had conversed some
+time in Russ he thought matters would be expedited by an interpreter. I
+soon discovered that his sleigh was at the door, and that he wanted us
+to be off, so I hastened, and was ready,—Charlie following in our sleigh
+with Curtin.—He wore a medal and his horse was a high stepper. We soon
+reached the church, and had standing places of honor, _vide_ Moscow
+_Gazette_ of the next day with our distinguished names in Russian
+print,—for above three and a half hours, and we were not sorry to rattle
+off to the good dinner, which the opulent merchant, who had given the
+church, had had prepared for his guests. The lunch was stunning,
+entirely _à la Russe_, with some little wrinkles I mean to remember, and
+the _menu_ on very gorgeous frosted paper, and a photograph of the
+church under each plate. We returned from our day’s work very much
+satisfied.
+
+The society of this place is quite funny. We have got into the very
+“swell” little clique of the town, the Faubourg Saint Beacon Street of
+Moscow, and like the same set in our own blessed “Hub,” it is a close
+oligarchy with an endless array of cousins. The other evening we saw a
+most pretty phase of the holidays. About twenty young ladies and
+cavaliers of this set, with one or two matrons, went round the town in
+masquerade with fancy domino costumes, stopping at half a dozen
+different houses, at each of which they would dance once, with a supper
+later. Chawls and I went to two of the houses to see them and the effect
+was stunning; a postillion rushing in first, and then the others
+following in couples, Poles, Spaniards, and Tartars, Folly, a Cook, a
+Baby and her Nurse, &c., and so on. The coachman and footman, even, were
+in mask, to make the disguise as complete as possible, but we soon
+discovered our friends.
+
+I think we will try it in Boston next winter.
+
+The society of the merchant families is quite another set, but as they
+have the money now their entertainments are on a most gorgeous scale.
+
+
+ NEW YEAR’S DAY.
+
+After all how like people are in all countries. This is well shown by
+yesterday, the Russian New Year’s Day. We got up a very “swell” trap,—a
+trotter and a runner by his side,—and went about slaughtering all our
+acquaintances. It was precisely the same as in New York, except that
+they gave you no grub anywhere, nor wine, though we did see one
+inebriate youth driving off. Every one always drives about the city and
+you get into the state of being unable to walk ten steps. You wo’n’t do
+it. Sleighs are very cheap, and the distances are very great, so that
+you keep your sleigh about you as an indispensable companion, from
+twelve noon until after midnight. The coachman follows you round like a
+dog, merely going off to feed his horses some time in the afternoon.
+With all this it is strange that the Russians never drive themselves,
+and no matter how fine the horses of the gay youth of the city, and how
+elegant his equipage, the coachman always drives. Perhaps this is
+because horses are a necessity, not a luxury, and having to drive so
+much every day you do not care to do it yourself. I think I, myself,
+with all my fondness for horses, would soon be indisposed to drive in
+Russia.
+
+
+ THE RUSSIAN GROOM.
+
+The “swell” groom here has a _chic_ quite his own, and totally different
+from the London “tiger,” which has spread over the rest of the continent
+and America. My “Tom,” with his neat tights and top boots, carefully
+trimmed whiskers and square shoulders is very different from your
+bearded Russian coachman, the stouter the better, with lozenged-shaped,
+pin-cushion like, velvet hat, long tunic with a gorgeous colored sash
+and big boots. They drive with both arms stretched out at full length,
+and have four reins for a single pair of horses.
+
+Tuesday, p.m.: I will finish this off now and take it on with me to St.
+Petersburg, tomorrow, to mail it there, as we have decided to change our
+base, in fact, having slaughtered all the fair ones of Moscow, and
+having left a good impression, it is much better to make our bows and
+retire quickly.
+
+I have been skating today and yesterday with a most bright and
+attractive young lady, the Princess G—— (Princess Julie Gagarine now for
+years Madame la Princesse Ourousoff, one of the same great family
+represented at the Races on the Newport beach in 1866.) a cousin of the
+beautiful Miss M——. Being in mourning we have not seen her in society.
+She goes to St. Petersburg in a few days where we shall meet her again.
+
+We go to our last party tonight. Private theatricals and a ball
+afterwards. Last evening a _soirée musicale_ at the Martinoffs, and a
+dance later at another house.
+
+We go to St. Petersburg to be quiet(?) as you imagine, and we shall
+arrive just in time for the “Blessing of the Neva,” breakfast at the
+Winter Palace, Review of Troops, etc., etc., and from now until Lent we
+shall have all we want of gayety.
+
+Adieu, oh Moscow! with thy Kremlin and gilded turrets, thy fair
+princesses, thy fast horses, thy caviar and thy mazourka. Fain would we
+linger here, but the hand of time points onward, and the vague sensation
+of joys now past, vibrates in the brain!
+
+I have some little packages for you and Hattie from Coz. Eliza, which
+will I hope reach you safely some day. I am off now to bid her good bye.
+
+ Nate.
+
+
+ FROM MY SISTER IN BOSTON.
+
+ January 8, 1867.
+
+Your letter from St. Petersburg arrived by the same steamer that brought
+Mr. Burgess and little Billy’s blue suit, for both of which many thanks.
+I wish you could see the little man in the jacket and cap, he looks
+awful cunning, and the color just suits his complexion. They are just
+the right size, and all beholders say “How remarkable that a young man
+like Mr. Appleton should know just what to get for a baby like that!”
+
+The worsted work for the old lady was also a great success. She thinks
+it the funniest thing she ever saw. And all this page and not a word yet
+about the picture!
+
+
+ THE STAIGG PORTRAIT. THE SURPRISE.
+
+... I took Elias (The old family servant.) into the secret, and he was
+so important, and so excited with it that I never expected he would get
+through waiting on table that dinner, without smashing something. You
+know we got it into the house very quietly, during church time, and hid
+it on the back piazza, and Elias got it up into the drawing-room while
+we were eating dinner, and coming down made such telegraphic signals
+that Erny (Ernest Longfellow) who was next me, said, “What has come over
+Elias? he is winking and making such faces at you. There’s some immense
+secret!”
+
+As I had not my “eyes” on it was unfortunately thrown away. When Mamma
+did get up and saw it, she was fairly terrified, apparently thinking you
+were there yourself in some incomprehensible way. I don’t know but she
+will pull down “Rosalie” to have a place to hang it. Brother Tom takes a
+great interest in it, and brings artists to see it, who mostly think it
+Staigg’s best work.... Dear me. I have not told you about the piano we
+are having constructed to match our book cases, and with Mr. Staigg’s
+first sketch of you inserted in a panel,—truly lovely!
+
+
+ ON THE 11TH MY MOTHER WROTE:—
+
+Your brother Tom has just been in to read a letter from Charlie. He was
+quite excited in hearing about Russia, and really wished he was with you
+to enjoy something so new. He would have been a great addition, and
+talked French and made everything as jolly as possible. He hopes that
+you have made known that you were officers in the army and wounded men,
+and I trust it is understood that C. A. L. is son of the “great poet.”
+
+Your letters stir us all up, and though this is not a regular writing
+day, I could not resist telling you how much we enjoy hearing from you.
+
+The “presentation” must have been rather a trial, not speaking French
+fluently. How T. G. A. would have rattled it off! He rather wonders that
+he came home. Of course the yachting will take him out in the Spring. We
+have now fine sleighing, and he is every day on the Brighton road, but
+not a “fascinating hood” is to be seen; all the women with veils tied
+tight over their faces. T. G. A. drives his pair and has some damsels
+with him.
+
+Monday Eve: Little Billy (Curtis) came to see his Grandma this morning
+in full French costume; his pretty blue coat and hat, and Astrachan fur.
+It is lovely and very becoming to the little man.
+
+All are so charmed with your picture. It gives life and light to the old
+house. I cannot bear to part with it, and I believe Staigg does not
+consider it finished.
+
+I am glad you have nice quiet apartments, and are not at a hotel. Please
+be moderate, and do not dash about and make yourself conspicuous. It is
+foreign to the family name.
+
+
+ LETTER FROM GEO. B. SHATTUCK.
+
+ “Boston. January 8, 1867.
+
+ My dear Nathan.
+
+A visit to No. 39, a few days since, and the exhibition of your portrait
+by Staigg, spurred me up to an undertaking which I have long been
+proposing to myself, answering a letter which you wrote to me before
+your departure and after mine from San Francisco, and which was
+forwarded to me here.... I was much pleased with your picture, and
+thought it an excellent likeness for the number of sittings I was told
+you had.
+
+Of course, as is the duty of a good artist, he exerts his best effort
+that your personal pulchritude may not suffer, and the war-horse, etc.
+is rather in the style of General Washington. You ought to have had your
+negro “Joe” brought into the picture holding the charger. The horse, as
+well as I could judge from a short inspection, is well done, and
+surprisingly so, if, as Mrs. Appleton told me, this is Staigg’s first
+horse. I speak so at length as I suppose the thing to have been
+completed since you left home.”
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ ROSALIE.
+]
+
+
+ ALLSTON’S ROSALIE.
+
+The picture of “Rosalie” by Washington Allston, mentioned in my sister’s
+letter as hanging in the drawing-room at 39 Beacon street, and to which
+the author addressed some exquisite verses, became mine after the death
+of my father, at whose request it was painted.
+
+It was in 1835, that my half-sister, the wife of the poet Longfellow,
+then Miss Frances Elizabeth Appleton, made a copy, which I now have in
+her own handwriting, of the following verse which was added by Allston
+some time after the original three verses were composed:—
+
+ “So, at that dreamy hour of day
+ When the last lingering ray
+ Stops on the highest cloud to play,
+ So thought the gentle Rosalie,
+ As in her maiden reverie,
+ First fell the strain of him who stole
+ In music to her soul.”
+
+The original three verses are as follows:—
+
+ “Oh! pour upon my soul again
+ That sad unearthly strain
+ That seems from other worlds to plain;
+ Thus falling, falling, from afar,
+ As if some melancholy star
+ Had mingled with her light her sighs,
+ And dropped them from the skies.
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ No—’tis not born of aught below,
+ That melting breath of wo
+ Which now doth o’er my spirit flow;
+ Waking the deeply-seated springs
+ Of silent joy; that round me flings
+ This nameless light—if light it be—
+ That veils the world I see.
+
+ For every form around me wears
+ The hue of other spheres:
+ And something mixed of smiles and tears
+ Comes from the very air I breathe.
+ Oh, nothing, sure, the stars beneath
+ Can mold a sadness like to this—
+ So like angelic bliss.” —_Wa. Allston._
+
+These three verses have the signature as given above, in the copy in my
+possession. To the peculiar circumstances under which the picture was
+painted, an allusion is made in a letter to my brother Tom in Paris, by
+Mr. Tom Kemper Davis in Boston, a member of the legal profession with a
+strong leaning toward literary pursuits.
+
+
+ THOMAS SULLY.
+
+“Sully, the artist,” he wrote, “is in town. I went with him yesterday
+and bowed at the shrine of the divine ‘Rosalie’. Sully’s first
+exclamation, after gazing some time at the picture, was,—
+
+‘Raphael and Titian combined!’
+
+Allston, by the way, has in conversation with me frequently alluded to
+your father’s purchase of this picture, and as I never heard him allude
+before to any like transaction. The manner in which the thing was done
+seems to have touched his heart.”
+
+When they went to see it, the picture hung in the drawing-room of our
+old house, 39 Beacon street. That the artist Sully may have had a
+personal interest in the “Rosalie,” was suggested to me by a letter from
+the pen of a Washington correspondent of the New York _Daily Graphic_,
+signed “Mary E. Nealy,” which I chanced to see. I, being then in London,
+addressed a letter to this correspondent from 449 Strand, the Reading
+Room and Exchange of Robert Bowles, dated October 26, 1875, in the
+following words:—
+
+“I noticed in a recent number of the _Graphic_, a letter of yours from
+Washington, in which you gave quite a long account of a collection of
+pictures painted by Sully. My attention was attracted to it by what you
+say of ‘Rosalie’, and the verses written by Allston, because I am the
+owner of the painting of ‘Rosalie’, which Washington Allston painted,
+and for which he wrote the verses.
+
+This picture was painted for my late father and hung by the direction of
+Allston himself at our house, where it has remained many years, the
+admiration of all. Should you ever go to Boston, I think it will give
+you pleasure to see it.
+
+I always supposed that the name was merely a fancy one, but what you say
+of Allston’s intimacy with Sully and his family, makes me believe that
+quite probably the name was taken from one of Sully’s daughters, and as
+such it may even be a sort of portrait of her.”
+
+I closed by asking for further information in regard to the original of
+the picture, and received the following reply:—
+
+
+ MARY E. NEALY TO N. A.
+
+ 618 Sixth Street, Washington City, D. C.
+ Nov. 18, 1875.
+
+ Your letter of enquiry in regard to the portrait of “Rosalie” by
+ Allston was duly received. Colonel Wheeler does not know about it, and
+ Mrs. Wheeler, formerly Ellen Sully, being married before her sister
+ Rosalie was grown, does not _know_ that the verses were inspired by
+ her sister, but thinks it highly probable, as Mr. Allston admired her
+ very much. She was very beautiful, as well as talented, but died at an
+ early age. Mrs. Wheeler could tell you certainly about your picture if
+ she could see a photograph of it.
+
+ I will be happy to call and see the picture if I ever go to Boston,
+ and thank you kindly for the privilege and the invitation. I have been
+ intensely interested in his pictures, and think that few artists ever
+ created more lovely female heads. I have an old annual called _The
+ Gift_, published in Philadelphia, in 1842. On the title page is a
+ lovely vignette head, which Col. Wheeler says is Rosalie Sully. If I
+ could send it to you without spoiling my book I would do so. But the
+ more simple way would be for you to photograph your painting.
+
+ P. S. This is a handsome and youthful brunette, with a spirited yet
+ most lovely and womanly expression. Her hand supports her head, and
+ the dark rich curls fall carelessly about her face. Sully painted his
+ daughters in many positions and in various characters, and many female
+ heads of his, supposed to be imaginary, are portraits of his own loved
+ ones.
+
+_The Gift_, edition of 1842, is in the Boston Athenæum Library. The
+second picture on the title page really does look like “Rosalie” but
+younger.
+
+Allston died in Cambridge, Mass., July 9, 1843. Mrs. Jameson, the
+English author, in her Memoir of Washington Allston, January 1, 1844,
+gives the following description:—
+
+ “‘Rosalie Listening to Music.’ The figure of a young girl, life-size
+ and three-quarters. She has been reading. The hand which holds the
+ book has dropped: the other is pressed on her bosom. The head a little
+ raised. Rapt, yet melancholy attention in the opening eyes and parted
+ lips. The coloring deep, delicate, rich.
+
+ When I first saw this picture, in the drawing-room of Mr. Appleton of
+ Boston, I had never seen Allston, did not even recollect his name. It
+ at once so captivated my attention, that I could not take my eyes from
+ it, even though one who might well have sat for a Rosalie was at my
+ side. I thought I had never beheld such a _countenance_, except in
+ some of the female heads of Titian or Palma. Yet the face was not what
+ would be termed _beautiful_; and oh, how far from the sentimental,
+ ringletted prettiness of our fashionable painters!
+
+ When I afterwards asked Mr. Allston whether his poem of ‘Rosalie’ had
+ suggested the picture, or the picture the stanzas, he replied, that,
+ ‘as well as he could recollect, the conception of the poem and of the
+ picture had been simultaneous in his mind.’ He received for this
+ picture 1,200 dollars, about £250.”
+
+The “Rosalie” was exhibited at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition in
+1876, and a lithograph was published by James R. Osgood & Co., Boston,
+in a collection entitled “Massachusetts Artists’ Centennial Album,
+1876.” The description is as follows:—
+
+ “This picture was painted in 1835. It represents a beautiful girl
+ seated, facing the spectator, with one hand upon her bosom, and the
+ fingers of the other between the leaves of a red book which she holds
+ upon one knee. A piece of dark-brown drapery thrown across the lap
+ nearly hides the blue of the skirt. The waist of the dress is of gray,
+ with white sleeves, and is bound to the form by a yellow girdle. The
+ background is a dull red curtain with a gray column at the left. The
+ picture is owned by Mr. Nathan Appleton. The illustration is a
+ heliotype made from the original.”
+
+I loaned it for some years to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and in
+1893, it was exhibited at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. I
+afterward sold it to my brother W. S. Appleton, and it is now at 462
+Beacon Street, Boston.
+
+
+ MY BROTHER TOM AND ALLSTON.
+ LETTER FROM T. G. A. TO MRS. SAMUEL APPLETON.
+
+ 31st August, 1844.
+ Ashby de la Zouch.
+
+I have been a week with Lady S. and her husband Mr. Smith Wright, not
+far from here. Lady S. is famous for her taste in flowers. Her
+conservatory is superb, and her white “yackas” unrivalled. She has a
+sister like “_ma chere Mire_” in Miss Bremer, with a wonderful face for
+energy. She is 87, but quick as a girl, a very clever botanist as well,
+and corresponding with all the best botanists in England. I drove and
+rode and walked over the country; magnetized a little, and drew a
+little, and so the hours flew. The Everetts were there a bit, and then
+flew to Scotland. To show how kind a man Mr. Smith Wright is,—he it was
+at Rome who got the Protestant burial ground enclosed, and did away with
+the burial by torchlight of old time. He is president of the Mechanics’
+Institute at Nottingham. I shall hope to see these excellent friends
+again. I am the first American who ever visited them.
+
+Yesterday Lady S. drove me to Sir George Beaumont’s, wishing herself to
+see Allston’s picture, I had so interested her in him. On the way there
+she told me how odd a person the present Sir George was,—the nephew of
+the famous art patron,—He received us at his superb porch in a blouse,
+with a funny white hat on, and was in great spirits to see us.... He
+took us over the fine house, a miracle of taste, as was everything of
+his uncle’s, and at length into a glass conservatory-like gallery he had
+built to hold the over abounding pictures. Here were all the first good
+things of Wilkie, Leslie, etc., which Sir George bought to encourage the
+young artists, but Sir G.’s own sketches were as interesting as any, and
+as good. The last one he was upon when he fell with apoplexy was
+peculiarly so. It represented boys playing over water upon a fallen
+tree, and every figure was in danger. Sir G. considered this very
+curious, so anticipating his own situation.
+
+I mentioned Allston. He jumped. “I’ll show you a picture of his,”—and he
+ran for the key. It is in a lovely gray stone church, close to the
+house, a sort of guardian angel to the place.
+
+Allston’s picture is the only one in the church. It is the one he often
+spoke to me about. It is ill placed, and ill lit, but wonderfully fine.
+An angel in white with sky blue scarf fluttering, points, while standing
+on the steps, to the prison door with a radiant hand, while Peter lifts
+a majestic face, heavy with sleep, upon the Angelus from between his
+bent and drowsy guards.
+
+There is a huge _patine_ of moonlight breaking through the grates of the
+prison above.... The angel’s hair is nut brown and a little too pretty
+for so sacred a subject. It reminded me of “Rosalie’s” which is womanly,
+not angelic. The figures are life size and the picture one of Allston’s
+fine ones tho’ not equal to the “Jeremiah,” “Miriam” or “Balshazzar.”
+
+We spent hours in wandering through the grounds....
+
+Oh! the dairy, you should see that! An arched alcove, all _tiles_ above
+and below, rows of huge cream bowls standing upon marble slabs, and a
+fountain coolly splashing from an antique mask at one end. This gem of a
+dairy was dead Lady Beaumont’s doing.
+
+There were poems of Wordsworth cut in stone about the walks. He was a
+great friend of the former Sir George, and I saw a stone seat, the rock
+cut, in which he wrote many of his poems. When one thinks of this lovely
+place and the great men, Sir George, Allston, Wordsworth, and Beaumont
+and Fletcher,—this is one of the family,—perhaps Shakespeare, one must
+allow this to be almost unmatched as a country seat.
+
+On page 67, of brother Tom’s volume of poems entitled “Faded Leaves,” in
+one addressed to Allston after seeing his “Peter delivered from Prison”
+at Colcorton Hall, in Wordsworth’s winter garden, may be found the
+following stanzas:—
+
+ “A portion of thy soul divine
+ Is fitly shrined in yon meek aisle
+ Where arching roofs in prayer incline,
+ And chasten all the silent pile.
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ Ah! yes, dear Allston, from the bars
+ And dungeon of this mortal sphere,
+ At length thy spirit seeks the stars,
+ Free in their happier atmosphere.”
+
+
+ FROM MY MOTHER AT BOSTON.
+
+ “February 24, 1867.
+
+I do think you are having splendid times. The last princess seems to be
+the loveliest. And then the furs, and the slippers, and the table
+covers, and the malachite! Oh, what a boy!
+
+Mr. Sayles (Henry Sayles) and Ned Brown (Edward Ingersol Brown) called
+to see me and were so much pleased with your picture. (Staigg portrait.)
+
+They were told you _really sent_ a telegram from St. Petersburg on
+Christmas Day, and thought it so like you to do it. W. S. A. is in
+pursuit of a second pair for his four-in-hand. I do not approve so much
+display.”
+
+In another letter my mother observes parenthetically:—“You must remember
+I am an old lady and belong to the old school of manners and propriety,
+which has sadly changed since my day.”
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA. ILL. LONDON NEWS.
+]
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER SIXTH.
+ ST. PETERSBURG. THE NEVA. NOVGOROD. POLAND.
+
+ “We look into each other’s eyes,
+ And see a friendly peace which says,
+ While on the snowy Cossack flies,
+ ‘Rave ye without, here Quiet stays.’
+
+ This silent, unexpressed delight
+ Glows brighter so severely set:
+ Heart-warm against the stormy white,
+ The Rose of Joy burns warmer yet.”
+ —_Thomas Gold Appleton_
+ _A Snow Storm_, Jan. 17, 1867.
+
+
+ THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA.
+
+ St. Petersburg, Jan’y 20, 1867.
+
+ My dear Mama.
+
+Here we are back at the capital, where we were most enthusiastically
+received by our hostess Madame Octavie, who expressed great joy at
+seeing her “little Americans” safely returned, and installed us into our
+old apartments.
+
+Your letters came the next day, with accounts of Christmas festivities
+at home, and the prospective party for New Year.
+
+I am so glad that the portrait _à la militaire_ has been accomplished
+enough to show what it is, and that the likeness is good, and the whole
+thing gives pleasure. I rather pride myself upon it, for the idea of the
+composition and pose was quite my own, and the secrecy with which it has
+all been done is commendable.
+
+Driving down the Nevski from the Moscow station St. Petersburg looked
+_so_ funny, not in the least like a Russian city, but a great, sprawling
+capital, and they tell us it is not gay here at all, especially after
+Moscow. No balls at Court as yet, as the government is not very rich
+just now, and after the tremendous expenses of entertaining our fleet
+last summer, and later all the gorgeous display connected with the
+wedding of the Tsarevitch, they are really trying to economize a bit.
+This is good theoretically, but not for us individually, and I hope we
+shall see one big ball at the Winter Palace.
+
+The morning after our return was the day of the ceremony of the baptism
+of the Neva, which the Emperor attends. We received invitations to the
+Palace to go with the Diplomatic Corps, and although we could not see
+much of the performance outside,—and how the poor fellows, Tsar,
+priests, and “strikers” have to suffer with uncovered heads in the
+bitter cold,—we got a very good idea of the male portion of the Russian
+court in the Palace, and afterwards enjoyed an excellent breakfast. It
+was quite striking to see us, the only two civilians in the big throng
+of officers, courtiers and diplomats, and it was a pleasant feeling that
+the grandeur of America does not go in for outside display.
+
+We dined yesterday at the English Club with Curtin, the best one in the
+city, and English only in name, and later played Russian nine-pins with
+a party of officers.
+
+I skated, also, on the Neva Club grounds, which have been carefully
+arranged during our absence, and it was very jolly there, with music and
+all the swells of the city. The costumes are very effective, and add
+much to the brilliancy of the scene, those of the gentlemen being quite
+as elaborate as of the ladies, velvet jackets and tight fitting tunics
+trimmed with fur and slashed _à la Polenaise_, with Knickerbockers and
+leggings. It is strange that if a gentleman with us should attempt to
+wear such a costume, elegant, comfortable, and appropriate for the ice,
+he would be set down as a snob. The democratic principle of every one
+always wearing the same style of raiment on all occasions may, perhaps,
+be good, but it certainly takes away much from the beauty of any
+assemblage of human beings.
+
+The ladies were much as in New York or Jamaica Pond, with the addition
+of the omnipresent _basilisk_ or hood, made of different colored cloth,
+and trimmed with gold or silver braid. We mean to bring several of them
+home, as there is nothing prettier or more genuinely Russian here to
+take away, and for a lady to wear sleigh-riding they are perfect. I hope
+to see some of my own on the Brighton road next winter.
+
+Today was held the first race of the season on the river, but it was so
+very cold that it was not particularly amusing to witness. The horses
+look fine, parading about covered with Persian blankets. Monday morning.
+Very early! We start in a few minutes on an excursion of two or three
+days to Novgorod the Great, once the capital of Russia, and I have just
+time to seal this up without finishing it.
+
+ Therefore in haste, Nathan.
+
+
+ FOX’S MISSION TO RUSSIA.
+
+The reference in my letter to our fleet and its presence in Russia is to
+Fox’s mission. On the 16th of May, 1866, the President of the United
+States, Andrew Johnson, signed a joint resolution passed by Congress,
+congratulating the twenty million serfs upon the providential escape
+from assassination of the Emperor Alexander II., by the hand of an enemy
+of emancipation, and in order to give additional significance to the
+act, Congress selected the Hon. Gustavus Vasa Fox, assistant secretary
+of the navy during the entire period of the war for the Preservation of
+the Union, to perform the delicate mission of carrying this resolution
+to the Emperor of Russia. He was sent in the two turreted monitor
+_Miantonomoh_, a class of vessel which had never before crossed the
+Atlantic, and the _Augusta_ and _Ashuelot_, two wooden men-of-war,
+accompanied the _Miantonomoh_.
+
+August 6 (July 23) 1866, the fleet arrived in the harbor of Cronstadt,
+on the 17th the Tsar sent the address acknowledging the visit of Mr.
+Fox, and on Saturday, September 15 (3d) Mr. Fox left Saint Petersburg,
+after a farewell breakfast given on the Russian yacht _Rurik_ at which
+Lieutenant General Greig said in a speech while presenting a medal
+struck in memory of the enfranchisement of the peasants:—
+
+“He will see on it the likeness of our blessed sovereign, and the effigy
+of a nobleman and of a peasant.”
+
+A narrative of this mission to Russia from the Journal and Notes of J.
+F. Loubat (Duc deLoubat) was published in 1873, and presented to me in
+New York, by the author, September 28th of the same year.
+
+
+ THE CEREMONY OF BLESSING THE WATERS.
+
+In some notes made in February, 1879, and printed in the Boston
+_Advertiser_ under the title “_Outre Mer_,” I referred to the occasion
+of the annual benediction of the Neva, a rite of the Orthodox Church
+commemorative of the baptism of the Saviour, when the Tsar takes his
+position in an open chapel built out on the quay, and the ice below
+having been broken the Metropolitan blesses the waters and the cross is
+dipped therein three times:—
+
+“It takes place just opposite the Winter Palace, and all the guests
+witness it comfortably from the windows of one of the large rooms of the
+palace, while the Tsar and the priests and those who actually
+participate in it have to go out with bare heads in the cold and take
+some of the water from the frozen Neva, which they can only get through
+a hole made in the ice. It is principally a religious service, with
+rites performed upon a handsome platform, with a canopy above, erected
+for it between the palace and the water. It does not last long, and in
+this instance the Emperor and his suite might well have been glad to get
+out of the intense cold when it was over.
+
+We had some difficulty that day, my companion and myself, in getting up
+to the door of the Winter Palace. We had our cards of invitation all
+correct, indicating where we should go, and we supposed that our
+_invostchik_, or the driver of the sleigh we used every day, understood
+it perfectly. But it seems he did not, and we were stopped by a mounted
+soldier to whom we could not talk a word, while we brandished the card
+before him. But this did not work, and we had to turn back. We were at
+our wits’ ends, determined if possible not to miss the sight, and I
+suggested that we should drive at once to the United States Minister’s
+residence, General Clay, to see if we could not find his servant, or
+some one who would act as pilot. On the road we met our commissionaire
+whom we had dismissed at the hotel, thinking we should not need him, and
+took him in front with the driver.
+
+
+ “A FRIEND AT COURT.”
+
+As it was then rather late we drove up to the nearest door of the
+palace, but not the one designated for us to enter on the card. There we
+met one of the young officers of the imperial household whose
+acquaintance we had made at our regular presentation to the Tsar some
+weeks before, and, explaining to him our dilemma he said it was all
+right, and put us in charge of a _chasseur_, who was to conduct us to
+our proper places. He was a gorgeously dressed fellow, with a very tall
+plume in his hat, and slowly took us along through the endless _salons_
+of the building, which were filled with people,—ladies in the
+galleries,—and at length reached the room set apart for the Diplomatic
+Corps and distinguished strangers who happened to be in St. Petersburg,
+where we had a view of the ceremonies.”
+
+
+ A COUSINLY VIEW.
+ FROM MY COUSIN AT MOSCOW TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Moscow, January 22, 1867.
+
+ My dear Cousin.
+
+About a month ago, as I was standing at the window, I saw two gentlemen
+stop at our door, with very English faces as I thought. I was surprised,
+for I expected no visitors from abroad, but how much greater was my
+surprise when the two gentlemen were introduced as Mr. Appleton and Mr.
+Longfellow.
+
+You may well imagine my joy at seeing some of my American relations at
+last. Their stay in Moscow was for me a perfect enjoyment. I had such
+pleasure in seeing them, and saw them as often as was possible, for they
+had so many invitations from all sides that they could hardly find time
+to answer them all: they went very much among the nobility.
+
+Nathan admired the Russian ladies much and teased me all the time by
+saying he would marry a Russian Princess or a Polish countess. I said I
+would not acknowledge him after that, he must remain constant to the
+American beauties. He left Moscow, however, with the firm intention of
+falling desperately in love with the first fairy princess he met in St.
+Petersburg. I trust, however, that the 30 degrees of frost we have at
+the present moment will freeze his heart so as not to admit any warmer
+feeling into it, and prevent melting away those he brought with him from
+America.
+
+You may well think, dear cousin, how much Nathan and Charles had to tell
+us about you all, and it seems as if since I know them the ocean has
+disappeared between us, and we are brought nearer to each other. How
+much I should like to see you and know you all, and always will regret
+not to have gone over to Boston during the three months I stayed in
+Ostend, some twelve years ago. I should have then seen our dear
+Grandmamma, let me call her thus, dear cousin, for she was to me more
+than ever an aunt could be.
+
+How much I value the beautiful pin you sent me is needless to say.
+Receive my warmest and sincerest thanks for this kind attention, and
+believe me, dear cousin, that I shall always wear the pin, so dear to
+me, in remembrance of our dear Grandmamma and of yourself.
+
+How do you like Nathan’s and Charles’s photograph in their furs? (See
+frontispiece.) We admire it much, and I claimed one for my album.
+
+Kiss the dear baby for me. I sent him a pair of little red Russian
+boots, which I hope he will be able to wear by the time they reach him.
+
+Good bye, dear cousin, write to me sometimes, and tell me something
+about our travellers that interest me much. My husband begs to be kindly
+remembered to you and your dear family.
+
+ Most affectionately,
+ Eliza Carnatz.
+
+
+ NOVGOROD.
+ TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Saint Petersburg,
+ January 28, 1867.
+
+ _Ma chère Maman._
+
+Our little trip to Novgorod was most successful. We went down the
+railroad about 70 miles, to Tchudova, and there took the _troikas_ and
+the funniest vehicle imaginable, in which you lie down on the hay and
+are covered up with felt and skins. We made our forty-five miles in a
+few hours, arriving at the town in time for supper and bed.
+
+The next morning we set about seeing the sights of the place, which are
+very few, the old church of St. Sophia and the modern monument
+celebrating the 1000th anniversary of Russia.
+
+What a quaint old place, with its Kremlin, and its white yellow
+churches, and everything so Russian!
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE.
+]
+
+I found a fascinating antiquary, who would have driven Billy crazy, in
+his gown and skull cap. He had a book store in his house, with
+curiosities and minerals, and I bought a Russian missal of the 14th
+century (I afterwards gave it to the Boston Public Library.) and a few
+coins and odds and ends.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ SKATING IN THE YOUSOUPOFF GARDEN.
+]
+
+
+ THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE.
+
+We made the journey home by night, with the mercury near zero, and cold
+enough it was. I had two pairs of gloves on, and mittens over them, and
+was just comfortable. We rattled along over the snow, with a bright
+moon, and clear, cold stars, stopping now and then at wayside inns to
+drink tea and warm up.
+
+Nothing have we done more Russ than our midnight drive from Novgorod.
+
+Yesterday we dined with the Count Besborodko, the one who owns the
+“swell” palace I mentioned in a previous letter. The dinner was good,
+the company gay, the Countess charming, and never in my life was I so
+_en train_ to speak French easily. I surprised myself. We came home
+early, changed our dress, and went for a little while to the fête of the
+Yacht Club Skating ground, which was brilliantly illuminated with
+lanterns, grottoes of ice with Bengal lights thrown upon them, stuffed
+bears, pretty toilettes, etc. etc.—music.
+
+
+ ISLA.
+
+But even this was not enough for the evening, so off we go to Isla, a
+café, theatre, skating ground combined, a few miles into the country,
+where there are life size statues made of ice in the garden.
+
+Shall we go to the _bal masqué_ at the Opera House? No, it will hardly
+pay to put on our funereals twice the same evening, so go to bed
+quietly, and good night!
+
+Since my last return here I have been making many purchases preparatory
+to leaving the place.
+
+Your beautiful sables have been selected, paid for and packed up, and I
+hope they will come home in safety.
+
+
+ MY CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM.
+
+ “‘Brave in battle,’ ‘eloquent in assembly,’ are great titles in
+ Circassia. But he who is the ‘most hospitable’ wears the brightest
+ crown of all.... A Circassian is always a Circassian.”
+
+ —_Colonel Richard Henry Savage._
+
+ “A land of the sword and spear, of the chase and mighty
+ woodcraft—Circassia.”
+
+ —_R. H. S._ 1876.
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER CONTINUED.
+
+I have got Master Will a Circassian overcoat for winter, and myself a
+Circassian uniform, for fancy balls at home, very handsome and effective
+it is too. Charlie has had a Russian dress made for the same object. I
+have picked up in the Bazaar some nice things in the way of
+arms,—pistols, daggers and swords, and am looking for some chain armor.
+Today I bought all the malachite I want, a few pretty pieces only. My
+Russian harness has come, and very nice it is, so light and graceful.
+Look out for me on the avenue next summer crying “_berages_,” Russian
+for “Look out!” “Take care!”
+
+I have bought you a lovely Persian table cloth and myself a cover for an
+easy chair for smoking.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM.
+]
+
+We went the other evening to see the Davenport Brothers, who are here
+now, and as luck would have it I was drawn by lot to tie one of them in
+the box. Funny that way out in Russia they should be tied up by a fellow
+countryman. There was quite a party of us Americans there, and we
+chatted with them after the performance. It was very good and just what
+I have often seen.
+
+29th. Morning:—I have just received a big packet of letters; among them
+one from Georgie Shattuck. He gives me a very good idea of just what is
+going on in Boston.
+
+Last eve we were again at the Opera, in the Pierces’ box. The Barber of
+Seville—I have often heard it—with an ugly prima-donna. Tonight we go
+first to a ballet, “Meteora,” and after to a ball at Lady Buchanan’s the
+English ambassadress, and, perhaps, at two o’clock, to a costume ball at
+one of the Clubs. Saturday next is my birthday, and I am to give a
+gentlemen’s dinner to Russians and Americans.
+
+I have many things here which are not completed, and I want all my
+purchases well packed up and directed, before I leave the place, and,
+try as hard as you please, it is difficult to accomplish much each day.
+
+We made the acquaintance a few days past of the Souworoff family, the
+descendants of the great old fighter whose sabre rang all over Europe.
+The young princess was very nice and jolly, and did not like it that her
+mother would not let her skate and flirt. The old party was eminently
+proper and conservative in all her ideas, and reminded me of several
+ladies in Boston I might perhaps mention.
+
+We passed one evening last week quietly with Mr. Prince, as he was very
+desirous we should. What are you going to do this summer? Will quiet
+Lynn content you, or is it Niagara, Saratoga, or Newport? Go in for a
+house there, and I will come home by the first of August, in time for
+the season. I hear the Americans are cutting great rigs in Paris. Thank
+Mr. Burgess for me for the arrival of the package. Breakfast being
+ready, 12 m., I will say in the last words of many French comedies, “à
+table”.
+
+ Nate.
+
+
+ THE COSTUME BALL AT DELMONICO’S.
+
+ “Send me a dream tonight,
+ A dream of the boy-time days,
+ Stop for me the shuttle of Time
+ That ever so swiftly plays—
+ A dream of the other days,
+ When the sky was ever bright—
+ Unravel the warp and woof of years—
+ Send me a dream tonight.”
+ —_Baltimore American_, April, 1900.
+
+From a journal of a visit to New York and Philadelphia, made in March
+and April, 1875, I extract the following written in my den, 788
+Broadway, Room 16, New York, April 11th:—
+
+“Since I left Boston, nearly three weeks ago, I have been through some
+such interesting experiences that I must certainly record them in my
+diary. But it is no easy thing to catch them as they go by, so rapid a
+life do we lead in the great cities and so full of movement is the time,
+still, I will try.”
+
+The event of the season among the few hundred persons who make up the
+fashionables of New York society, was the _Bal Costumé_ given at
+Delmonico’s by thirty gentlemen on Easter Monday, March 29, 1875.
+
+I was invited to take part in the Oriental Quadrille gotten up by Miss
+Minnie Stevens (Daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Paran Stevens, and afterwards
+wife of Arthur Henry Fitzroy Paget.) as I had a fine Circassian
+officer’s dress, which I had had made years ago in Saint Petersburg,
+just for occasions of the kind.
+
+The Sunday before the ball I dined at Mr. S. L. M. Barlow’s, No. 1
+Madison Avenue, as my partner in the quadrille was to be Miss Barlow,
+and it was a kind attention on their part to invite me to dinner.
+
+The other guests were Mr. Manton Marble and Mr. Hurlburt of the New York
+_World_, one of the organs of the Democratic party. These gentlemen,
+with Messrs. Barlow, Belmont and others, were very intimate, and all
+leading spirits of the Manhattan Club.
+
+After dessert, I took occasion to say, in a conversation in which some
+of the leaders were being discussed, that the Democratic party to
+succeed must get rid of many of its old planks, which would not support
+any one today; that there were plenty of young fellows like myself and
+others, who had been in the war, and were now growing up to take part in
+public matters, who could not, and would not, place confidence in the
+men whose record had been such as that of the leaders of the Northern
+Democrats, the last fifteen years.
+
+But how I have departed from the ball!
+
+Instead of describing it particularly I insert here a drawing and notice
+of it from Frank Leslie’s paper, also the card of invitation, etc. (The
+illustration represented the ball room with the ball in progress,
+showing many of the finest costumes.)
+
+The invitation was for a _Bal Costumé—costume de rigueur_,—signed by H.
+S. Fearing, secretary, and the time was nine o’clock. The reverse of the
+card bore the names of twenty-eight gentlemen; among them August
+Belmont, W. W. Astor, and A. Thorndike Rice.
+
+The representative of _Frank Leslie’s_ said in his report:—
+
+ “All that bright flowers, perfumed air, sweet music, flashing
+ diamonds, manly beauty, female loveliness, elegant costumes, and grace
+ and refinement could contribute to such a scene, were found there....
+ One of the features of the evening was an Eastern quadrille of which
+ Miss Stevens of Fifth Avenue was queen. The costumes of the eight
+ forming the set were superb!”
+
+The note from Miss Minnie Stevens to me with regard to the ball, was as
+follows:—
+
+ “I write you some time ahead to know if it is possible for you to be
+ in New York a week from Monday, that is to say, the Monday before the
+ ball. We have arranged to dance the quadrille at our place on that
+ evening, for you have no idea how little any one knows about dancing
+ it, and, as the audience will be large, it would be very mortifying to
+ make several mistakes. As there is to be a procession formed, we have
+ also to know our partners and our places. I hope you will be able to
+ get here for the rehearsal on Monday the 22d as I would like all the
+ sixteen to come together. I am in despair about my dress, it is so
+ difficult to get up. Hoping soon to have the pleasure of seeing you,
+
+ I am sincerely yours,
+ Minnie Stevens.”
+
+This was the handsomest ball of the kind I ever saw, as nearly all the
+costumes were remarkable for richness, and few or none of them had a
+cheap or tawdry look. The march in of all of us who took part in the
+opening quadrille, was a brilliant sight.
+
+Before going to it I went to show myself off in costume at the
+Appletons’, 3 Madison Avenue, and also at the Beckwiths’ on Fifth Avenue
+and 18th Street, whence I escorted Miss Helen Beckwith (Now Mrs. Dudley
+Leigh.) in the dress of a Circassian slave across the street to the
+Belmonts’, where there was a large reception, for those in costume
+particularly, for the benefit of the invalid daughter who could not go
+to the ball, but naturally wanted to see the people and the dresses. I
+was glad to have the chance of paying a call at the house. Mrs. Belmont
+looked remarkably well, and her other daughter (Now Mrs. Samuel S.
+Howland.) too, as pretty as possible in Pompadour costume.
+
+At the ball I sat at a supper table with Mrs. Strong,—née
+Ruggles,—chatting and looking at the different persons as they passed
+by; also, with Mrs. General Barlow née Shaw. This was a quiet and
+comfortable way of enjoying the fête. Then I danced the “_cotillon_”
+with Mrs. Kemys—the cotillon which was led by Jimmy Otis with all the
+animation of twenty years before.
+
+Strolling to my den through 14th street and Broadway, just as the day
+was dawning, I got into bed, well tired, a little before six o’clock.
+
+
+ FROM MISS STEVENS ON RECEIPT OF THE PHOTOGRAPH, 1877.
+
+ “So many thanks for the charming photograph just received. It was very
+ kind of you to have remembered me, and so justly divined my wish.
+
+ The ‘Circassian’ shall join its companions in the album of the
+ oriental quadrille. We are going to England some time this spring, but
+ I hope only to return for the summer at dear old Newport, which we all
+ must acknowledge has no rivals.”
+
+
+ THE LOOM OF THE EAST.
+
+I wore my Circassian costume again at my brother’s house, 10
+Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, at the meeting of the Bric-a-Brac Club,
+January 17th, 1877, when I read his paper on “The Loom of the East”
+(Fifth chapter of “Windfalls” by Thomas Gold Appleton, author of “A
+Sheaf of Papers,” “A Nile Journal,” “Syrian Sunshine” etc.) my brother
+suffering from a fall at the time.
+
+
+ MY TWENTY-FOURTH BIRTHDAY.
+ FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, SUNDAY, FEB. 3, 1867.
+
+“Your birthday (February 2d) was not forgotten, and as I sat at my
+lonely meal, I could only wish you, my boy, many years of happiness,—not
+the giddy enjoyment of the present hour, but solid days of reality, when
+the heart shall be satisfied, and all this fascination of travel and
+society shall have lost some of its freshness, and you will not care for
+a ‘spike’ team, or a ‘four-in-hand’.”
+
+
+ THE LAST LETTER FROM RUSSIA IN ’67.
+
+ St. Petersburg, February 3, 1867.
+
+Yes, Mamma, it is here. We are off tomorrow for Warsaw. We leave this
+delightful place, with its cold climate and its warm hearts. Willingly
+would I linger here a week or two more, but Charles is resolute, and has
+been saying for the last few days that he _will_ go tomorrow, and can’t
+be stopped.
+
+Our boxes are packed, our bills paid, and as it would be quite
+impossible to find a time when we would not like to stay longer, perhaps
+it is as well to go now as ever.
+
+
+ “20 AND 30 BELOW.”
+
+It is mild today, but the four days before have been such cold as I
+never experienced; the mercury being all the time between twenty and
+thirty below the zero of Fahrenheit. In fact the people here say they
+have not had such a snap for years. We were fortunate not to get frozen,
+for our _isvoschik_ was in a continued state of freeze,—which he did not
+seem to mind,—notwithstanding the neckkerchief and mittens we gave him.
+
+The intense cold interferes little with your life, and wrapped up in our
+_shubes_ we spend the day calling or shopping, or by night go from
+ballet to ball till late in the morning. They have huge fires built in
+front of the Opera House, and the Winter Palace, for the coachmen to
+keep warm.
+
+
+ RUSSIAN FOOTMEN.
+
+The life of a footman here is odd enough. Their principal duty is to
+look after the cloaks and overshoes of their masters and mistresses, and
+they follow them about all day and night, sitting and sleeping in the
+entries of private houses during a visit and the duration of a ball, and
+in the foyer of the theatre for the entire performance of the opera or
+play.
+
+The carriages, too, are always drawn up in line at the theatre or ball,
+and stay there all night instead of going home and returning at a
+certain hour. What would the tender coachmen and hackmen of Boston say
+to that, who do not like to wait half an hour?
+
+This is strange, when it is so cold, especially for the horses, but they
+are never clipped, and the men are very thickly dressed.
+
+At all the “swell” houses they have an impressive flunkey in the entry,
+with a huge knobbed stick like a drum major or beadle, dressed in
+gorgeous livery, a red sash a foot wide and covered with embroidered
+black, double-headed eagles. All he does is to open and shut the front
+door. In fact, at all houses, shops, and hotels, they have a porter,
+generally an old soldier covered with medals, to take off and put on
+overcoats and boots and goloshes.
+
+Every house in Russia is double windowed and treble doored, and between
+the two panes of the windows there are artificial flowers.
+
+The houses are too hot, and the air bad, so that they use incense
+everywhere in the country.
+
+
+ LADY BUCHANAN’S BALL.
+
+The ball at the British embassy was very good, and we were introduced to
+the prettiest girl in the city, the little Countess Apraxine. We met,
+also, a charming young lady, the Princess Ourousoff, a cousin of my
+friend at Newport last summer.
+
+Today we have been lunching at the Prince Galitzine’s, with a crowd of
+jolly young dogs; among them the son of the celebrated Gortschakoff.
+
+
+ TSARSKOË SELO.
+
+We passed one day last week at Tsarskoë Selo, visiting the palace, a
+summer residence of the Emperor; also, the arsenal with splendid armor,
+and the imperial dairy, where we ate cheese and drank imperial milk. We
+afterwards dined with Gen. Gogol, the commander of the department, who
+was very strong on the _entente cordiale_ between us, with a most
+healthy detestation of England. He was another good specimen of that
+well-known type of humanity, the Russian general.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ SLEDGE DRAWN BY REINDEER.
+]
+
+The Palace was the best I ever saw, they being generally cold,
+cheerless, all alike, and a bore, but this looked like a habitable
+place, with a blue and silver boudoir, a room entirely made of Japan
+wood, with panels, pictures, furniture, all Japanese; one room papered
+with amber, and at last a Persian smoking room, small and cozy, filled
+with bits of armor and pipes, divans, and a tiny fountain sunk in the
+middle of the room.
+
+I have been doing up sights rapidly, preparatory to leaving; for
+instance, the Admiralty, where an officer showed us all the models,
+interesting to Charles, especially the Yankee cutters; the Academy of
+Fine Arts from which, however, the best paintings have already been sent
+to Paris. (For the Exposition.) I wanted to get a fair idea of the
+Russian school, as it is now very little known out of the country, but
+headed by Zitchy, a genius. I have photographs which will give you an
+idea of his talent.
+
+The Imperial Library one day I slaughtered, well repaying a visit, but
+finally, today, we gave a hurried half-hour to a last, lingering gaze at
+the treasures in the Hermitage.
+
+
+ A DRIVE WITH REINDEER.
+
+Yesterday, in all the cold, we took a five minute drive in a sledge
+drawn by three reindeer on the Neva, just to say we had done it.
+
+Midnight and after:—I take up my festive quill for the last time in
+Petersburg, to finish a family epistle.
+
+We have been to see our last ballet tonight, and then out to Tivoli, a
+restaurant in the suburbs of the city, with a “swell” skating pond under
+glass. We have been meaning to see the place for a long while, but have
+not accomplished it before our last eve.
+
+We have our government permission to leave the country, and nothing now
+remains for us to do but gracefully take off our hats and give a parting
+kiss to Russia.
+
+ Nate.
+
+Please see that all my military traps are safely returned from the
+studio of Staigg,—sword, bridle, jacket, belt, etc. Ask T. G. A. to
+write me his opinion of the picture.
+
+
+ GAS-LIGHTING IN MOSCOW.
+ FROM MY MOTHER IN BOSTON, FEB. 10, 1867.
+
+“Did you witness the lighting of Moscow with gas? It must have been a
+great occasion from the newspaper accounts. It seems strange it should
+not have been done before this.
+
+
+ GIFTS TO THE SOUTH.
+
+Mr. George Peabody has made a munificent gift to the country of
+$1,500,000 for educational purposes in the South, so that I am sure the
+North may feel relieved of all responsibility.
+
+I read in this evening’s _Transcript_, that the largest room in the
+world is in St. Petersburg, did you see it? Twenty thousand wax tapers
+are required to light it properly.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ DROSKY.
+]
+
+It is simply ridiculous the way people are to be off, there will be
+eight or nine vacant houses at Nahant.”
+
+Later, in a letter dated March 31, 1867, my mother mentioned the gift of
+100,000 volumes of school books, which the New York Appleton firm had
+added to the educational gift of Mr. Peabody.
+
+
+ “POOR POLAND.”
+
+ “Good Kosciusko! thy great name alone
+ Is a full harvest whence to reap high feeling;
+ It comes upon us like the glorious pealing
+ Of the wide spheres—an everlasting tone.”
+ —_John Keats._ _To Kosciusko._
+
+
+ LETTER TO MY MOTHER.
+
+ Vienna, Feb. 12, 1867.
+
+From Saint Petersburg to here, a long pull, is it not? and what a change
+in temperature from the icy zero of the Neva to that which seems almost
+like summer! We saw the snow disappear on our way, and wheels gradually
+take the place of runners, and now that I am far away, and in a city,
+which like most European ones, is an attempted copy of Paris, how
+brilliantly indeed do the peculiarities of Russia stand forth.
+
+We left St. P. one morning and the evening of the next day were in
+Warsaw. Returning to our hotel late from a ball, we were accosted and
+stopped by a policeman of whom I asked the way, and he very politely
+took us all (Mr. W. F. Nisbet, an American gentleman who came with us
+from Russia, C. A. L. and myself.) to the station house. It seems no one
+in Warsaw is allowed to be out after midnight without a “pass,” and we
+had neglected to get them.
+
+We coolly entered and sat down and burst out laughing, and at length I
+explained in my bad German, to an official who talked an equally bad
+lingo, our situation, impressing him with the fact of the greatness of
+the Amerikanski alliance, and we were soon escorted home.
+
+The next day we rambled about the town, saw the palaces and the pretty
+ladies, and were attended to by some young Russian swells to whom we had
+letters from St. Petersburg. In the theatre we saw the Mazourka most
+gorgeously danced in true Polish national costume, which was not allowed
+here a few years ago.
+
+Poor old Poland! What is left of her former greatness? Alas, nothing but
+the mazourka. As can be aptly said, how like to Byron’s Greece:—
+
+ We have the Polish dance as yet,
+ Where is the Polish phalanx gone?
+
+Better this than nothing, as it helps keep up still the nationality of
+the people.
+
+The next morning Charles and I were off to Cracow, the old capital of
+Poland, and one of the most interesting and quaint old towns I had ever
+seen, with its Square and Schloss, and the church where all the kings of
+Poland have been crowned and buried, and we mysteriously descended the
+vault, and saw the tombs of Jagellon, Paniatowski, and our good friend
+Kosciusko.
+
+This is an Austrian territory, where the rule is much less rigid, and we
+saw many old Poles in faded frogged coats and square caps, and the
+antique equipages and livery of families once the greatest in Europe.
+
+I was never so impressed before with the hard fate of Poland, a great
+nation actually annihilated, and I got up my sympathy more on my journey
+by reading a most interesting history of Poland by Mickiewicz.
+
+There happens to be a big salt mine near Cracow, and as we had never
+seen anything of the sort before, we descended with Bengal lights and
+what not, and did the whole thing: illuminated chambers, ferried across
+the Styx, crystal dance halls, and all, hundreds of feet below ground.
+
+
+ PARTING COMPANY.
+
+The next morning we were up early for the train, and Charles and I,
+after two and more most agreeable months together, parted company; he
+for Dresden and then Paris, and I for Vienna.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER SEVENTH.
+ CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.
+
+ “Friend of my youth! when young we roved,
+ Like striplings, mutually beloved,
+ With friendship’s purest glow,
+ The bliss which winged those rosy hours
+ Was such as pleasure seldom showers
+ On mortals here below.”
+ “To Lord Clare”—Byron’s _Hours of Idleness_.
+
+
+ IN VIRGINIA.
+ THREE YEARS PREVIOUS. THE PAIN OF BATTLE.
+
+It was the movement of General George G. Meade called the Mine Run
+Expedition, Nov. 26, 1863. On the morning of the 27th the First Mass.
+Cavalry under command of General John I. Gregg, marched to Parker’s
+Store on the Orange Plank Road, where it met a column of Meade’s
+infantry, the Fifth Corps, under command of General George Sykes, passed
+them, and marched ahead of them on the Gordonsville road, leading the
+column through the Wilderness. At New Hope Church they met the enemy’s
+cavalry pickets, but the country was so densely wooded they could only
+fight dismounted.
+
+Brevet Col. B. W. Crowninshield in his History of the First Mass.
+Cavalry, says:—“As the force advanced, the ground became rougher and
+well wooded at times, with occasional openings. Charges were made, and
+prisoners were taken from what proved to be Walker’s North Carolina
+Brigade of Infantry.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.
+]
+
+Lieutenant C. A. Longfellow of Company A, was badly wounded, at first
+supposed mortally....
+
+When the 5th Corps infantry came up and relieved the cavalry the enemy
+had been pushed back nearly to his works on Mine Run.... In the fight
+the 1st Mass. Cavalry lost one officer and four men killed, and two
+officers and eleven men wounded.”
+
+
+ FROM THE HISTORY OF THE FIFTH MASS. BATTERY, LIGHT ARTILLERY.
+ LETTER OF LIEUT. APPLETON P. 747.
+ THE CROSSING OF THE RAPIDAN. NEW HOPE CHURCH.
+
+“On the 27th (Nov. 1863.) off at daybreak, struck a dirt road, which
+soon led to another plank road parallel to the first, and also in the
+direction of Orange Court House. On, on, we trudged, and soon we heard
+heavy cannonading, which every minute grew nearer, mixed now and then
+with the sharp cracks of the carbine. We soon came to the little village
+of New Hope Church, where the Corps rushed on at ‘double quick’ to
+relieve the shattered squadrons of Gregg, and a splendid sight it was.
+The cavalry formed in squares by the road side, right glad to be
+relieved by the ‘Doughboys’ and our artillery rushing on to the front.
+Captain Martin (Capt. A. P. Martin commanding the Artillery Brigade)
+soon got the batteries in posish, and in fact the only fighting our
+Corps did was done by the artillery. I soon heard that Charlie
+Longfellow had been wounded, and stole the first minute I could get to
+run off to the hospital, New Hope Church, where I saw the dear boy,
+lying on the pulpit, and surrounded by the officers of the regiment.
+(First Mass. Cavalry.) He looked and talked well, but I did not have but
+a minute to stay with him, as my biz. then was on the field.... I went
+again to the hospital in the evening, but Charlie had gone, as they had
+taken off all except the worst cases. I assure you it was not a pleasant
+sight. Charlie and Bowditch (Captain Henry Pickering Bowditch shot in
+the right forearm) went off together. Charlie was wounded by a ball just
+under the shoulder blade, injuring the spine, but missing the vital
+parts.”
+
+ * * * * *
+
+Previous to his connection with the First Mass. Cavalry he joined the
+First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, at the front, as a private, but
+was not mustered in, and at the age of 19 was commissioned in the
+Cavalry. His record in the Adjutant General’s office of the State of
+Massachusetts, is as follows:—
+
+ “Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned 2nd Lieut., Co.
+ G., 1st Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, March 27, 1863; mustered March 27,
+ 1863, for 3 years. Commissioned 1st Lieut. to date January 24, 1864,
+ not mustered; discharged February 15, 1864, as 2nd Lieutenant.
+
+ Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned 1st Lieut. in
+ Co. G, 5th Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, January 7, 1864. He declined the
+ commission.”
+
+The Fifth Cavalry was a Regiment composed of men of African descent.
+
+In August, 1863, he was Acting Adjutant.
+
+The wound affected him all his life, he was never in condition to rejoin
+the army, and it prevented him from going on the ill fated expedition of
+Captain George Washington De Long in the _Jeanette_, to the North Pole.
+He had begged his great friend James Gordon Bennett to go as a volunteer
+on the expedition, but the surgeon who examined all those who were to
+take part in it, did not consider him fit to stand the probable
+exposure, and so would not pass him, greatly to his own disappointment
+but to the relief of his family and friends. As he would doubtless have
+been in the boat with Captain De Long he was saved the suffering and
+terrible death of those brave men.
+
+After much travelling and residence in many lands, shortly after his
+return from a trip to Tahiti with his friend T. Watson Merrill, in the
+spring of 1892, he had a sudden stroke of paralysis, from which he never
+recovered.
+
+Passing the summer with his sister Miss Alice Longfellow, at the old
+Nahant Cottage, he returned with her in the autumn to the historic home
+at Cambridge, formerly Washington’s headquarters, and after living all
+the winter and appearing somewhat better, he died April 13, 1893, at the
+age of forty-nine. He was born June 9, 1844.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER EIGHTH.
+ FRANCE. LAST DAYS OF THE EMPIRE. TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS.
+
+
+ I
+
+ “Friend of the fair old days,
+ Have you forgotten me?
+ Back through the pleasant ways,
+ Oft in my memory,
+ Gladly I turn again.
+ Hearing the sounds that blew
+ Over the meadows then—
+ Oft at the side of you
+ Dreaming old dreams, I gaze
+ Worshipping all I see—
+ Friend of the fair old days,
+ Have you forgotten me?
+
+ II
+
+ · · · · ·
+ Do you remember me?
+ · · · · ·
+ Deeming you great and wise—
+ Questions I asked you then?
+ There where the green hills rise
+ Often your gaze was cast
+ Down on me tenderly—
+ Friend of the dear old past,
+ May you remember me?”
+ —_S. E. Kiser._
+
+
+ THE GUESTS OF FRANCE.
+
+I wrote home June 5th, 1867, the year of the Great Exposition:—“It does
+not pay just now to be away from Paris, for it is in a most exceptional
+state, filled with Europeans—Kings, Princes, and all kinds of
+celebrities. All other places are deserted and quieter than usual, and
+moreover they will all keep for the future, but probably not for years
+will Paris see such another sight.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ HON. NATHANIEL P. BANKS.
+
+ REPRESENTATIVE FROM MASSACHUSETTS.
+]
+
+The last few steamers have brought over crowds of ‘Yanks’; others have
+come up from Italy and Germany, and I find that since the short time ago
+that I left here for England, my many friends have turned up and prices,
+too, have run up very fast.
+
+The race for the Grand Prix on last Sunday, was probably the most
+brilliant assemblage of the sort the world has ever seen, and the road
+home from the tribune itself to the Place de la Concorde, was a solid
+mass of vehicles five or six rows in breadth, and all going in the same
+direction.
+
+My friend the Tsar Alexander II. was there, and I recognized other
+Russian friends, but I shall let you get the accounts from the papers,
+and not from me, of all the grand doings of the season. There is to be
+held at the race course at Long Champs a huge review of military.
+
+
+ THE REVIEW.
+
+Thursday. Midnight: I must finish this for you tonight to dispatch it by
+tomorrow morning.
+
+The Review (Longchamps June 6, 1867, Review of the French Army.) was
+superb. It was, perhaps, the proudest day of Napoleon Third’s career,
+having on one side of him, as he reviewed the troops, the King of
+Prussia, and on the other the Emperor of Russia.
+
+I was late in driving up, but afterwards had a fine view of it all at
+the apartments of Paul Forbes and his family of New York, on the avenue.
+
+Returning to Paris after the Review, the carriage in which the Tsar was
+seated passed me somewhere in the Bois de Boulogne, as I too, was
+returning from the pageant. I was so full of the delightful time I had
+had in Russia, a few months before, that I took off my hat as we passed
+and gave him a bow. My salutation was so very marked that he looked at
+me intently, as if trying to make out just who I was, but I do not
+suppose he could bring me back to his recollection, though of course he
+returned the salutation.
+
+The weather is delightful now, and the days so long that it is not dark
+at nine o’clock, and Paris is one prolonged fête, each day and night
+more astonishing than the last.
+
+There is a vague rumor floating about that some crazy Pole attempted to
+assassinate the Tsar at the Review.
+
+June 12, 1867: This marvellous life of Paris runs along, getting more
+extraordinary every day!
+
+How well Napoleon III. has succeeded in his undertaking. He invites
+rulers of all descriptions to come and visit him in his home, to see the
+Paris of ’67.
+
+They accept, and he quietly sits twirling his moustache, surrounded by
+Tsars, Popes, Queens, Sultans, Kings, Grand Dukes and Princes! What a
+shrewd and wonderful stroke of diplomacy it all is, thus showing to the
+world the marvels of his great capital! Balls, fêtes, races, reviews,
+come and go, but how it will all end one cannot say, for I think the
+French people will be tired of the tremendous expense before the summer
+is over.
+
+Yesterday I went with a party to Fontainebleau, but it so happened the
+Imperialist party were all there the same morning, and the Palace was
+closed for visitors. We breakfasted, and drove through the forest,
+expecting to see a _chasse_, but, shortly after reaching the
+“Rendezvous” we found it was abandoned on account of the heat, and dogs
+and huntsmen all marched home.
+
+It is almost too warm for theatres now, but tonight I have been to see a
+piece called _La Dame aux Camélias_, which was a great success in Paris
+ten or fifteen years ago. (Vaudeville Theatre, Paris, February 2, 1852,
+Madame Eugénie Doche was the first Marguerite Gautier.)
+
+July 4. 1867:—Here we have the great day of American independence, but,
+owing to the death of Maximilian, all festivities, both for the Sultan,
+and even our own “Fourth of July” celebration, are postponed. I must say
+this seems rather unnecessary, but I am inclined to think that yesterday
+morning Napoleon III did not have a very good appetite for breakfast.
+(The Emperor Maximilian was executed in Mexico, where he bravely
+insisted upon remaining to meet his fate when the army of Napoleon III
+had been withdrawn.)
+
+Paris is one of those places into which you tumble very easily, and then
+find it almost impossible to get out of it. People are packing up now,
+however, and the fashionable resort this summer, for Bostonians
+especially, seems to be the baths about Salzburg in the Tyrol.
+
+Funny thing life is here in Paris. You wake up in the morning without
+any idea what you will do during the day. Invitations come, one thing
+succeeds another, and the hours slip along.
+
+July 10, 1867: The death of Maximilian has caused a very deep feeling in
+Europe, and most of the festivities arranged for the Sultan have been
+countermanded. This makes it rather quieter in Paris now than was
+expected.
+
+I went out yesterday to Saint Cloud, and saw some rowing regattas
+between boats of various nationalities, but there were few persons
+present, and not much excitement.”
+
+ * * * * *
+
+The year of the great Exposition of 1867, may be regarded as the apogee
+of the Second Empire, and soon after it ominous rumblings were heard in
+the political clouds. The disastrous and humiliating expedition to
+Mexico doubtless contributed to the beginning of the downfall, and even
+the sight of Napoleon at the Longchamps Review in 1867, with the Emperor
+of Russia and the King of Prussia on either side, could not bolster up
+popular opinion as to the prestige of French military glory.
+
+I never considered that the people of France endorsed the expedition to
+Mexico, or believed in it. No, it was part of the personal ambition of
+Napoleon to take advantage of our troubles, and try to foist an empire
+upon one of the nations of the Western hemisphere, where it was not
+wanted, would have been out of place, and could not last long. It was a
+miserable business from beginning to end, and did much to weaken the
+ties of friendship between France and the United States, as was shown
+many years later by the opposition of our government and people to the
+peaceful work of Mr. de Lesseps in his herculean efforts in behalf of
+the Panama Canal.
+
+Napoleon was at the height of his tinsel glory in 1867, but the triumph
+of the Empress Eugénie was reached in 1869, at the fêtes in Egypt
+attending the opening of the Suez Canal, certainly in her case a
+well-merited one, her efforts as a relative of de Lesseps having
+contributed so much to the success of that great enterprise. One would
+hardly have imagined then, while looking upon her in all her grace and
+loveliness, in every way the queen of the festivities, that the
+over-throwing of the Empire was so soon to follow.
+
+The celebration of our “Fourth of July” at the Pré Catalan in the Bois
+de Boulogne was omitted in 1867, as noted, and I have heard that this
+was done at the especial request of the French government, and I suppose
+it was made in such a way that it would not have been easy or in good
+taste to refuse. All the same I could not understand what our
+celebration had to do with the death of Maximilian, and I regretted
+extremely that our representative succumbed to the pressure brought to
+bear. I never learned whether it was the result of orders from
+Washington, or if our Minister took the responsibility, for such an act
+does not seem to harmonize with the character of General John A. Dix,
+though he was the most courteous of gentlemen.
+
+
+ PARIS IN 1869.
+
+On the 21st of May, 1869, I wrote my sister—“Paris is now filled with
+American diplomats, Washburn, Jay, Burlingame, Marsh, etc., most of whom
+I have seen. Burlingame dined with me ten days ago, and expatiated on
+the charms of everything in California.”
+
+Among my guests at my apartment just off the Boulevard, were members of
+congress, prominent men of business and science, diplomatic
+representatives, and others, meeting there as they turned up in Paris on
+their European trips for relaxation. They were generally Americans, as
+my ambitions were all identified with my native country, but I would
+often have a sprinkling of Frenchmen or English to give variety and
+there, in the neutral territory of my smoking-room, all restraint thrown
+aside, men who at home belonged to political parties sometimes in bitter
+opposition, would meet and express their opinions in a way that would
+have been impossible in New York or Washington. Sparks of wit would fly
+off from the fast working grindstone of this unpretentious salon, and
+there was plenty of valuable information to be picked up by any one who
+would take the trouble to go there with his eyes and ears open.
+
+
+ BURLINGAME AND CHINA.
+
+At a farewell banquet given to Major General John A. Dix, U. S. Minister
+to France, at the Grand Hotel, June 1st, 1869, by the American residents
+at Paris, the Hon. Anson Burlingame was present and was introduced by
+the presiding officer Hon. Elliot C. Cowdin, as one who “pleaded for the
+rights of four millions of slaves until their last fetter fell. He now
+in loftier tones pleads before the nations the cause of four hundred
+millions of men.”
+
+In 1867, Prince Kung, regent of the Empire of China, offered to appoint
+Burlingame, who was United States Minister to China appointed by
+President Lincoln, special envoy to the United States and the great
+European powers, for the purpose of framing treaties of amity with these
+nations, an honor never before conferred upon a foreigner.
+
+He resigned as U. S. Minister to accept this mission around the world,
+and arrived at the United States the head of a numerous party, in March,
+1868.
+
+In the course of his remarks the following year at the banquet to
+General Dix, he said:—
+
+“While we do not interfere in other people’s affairs, nor permit them to
+interfere in ours, we cannot forget that we are a great nation, that we
+cannot abdicate our responsibilities, that we must take our part in the
+peaceful police of the sea and the land, and in the maintenance of those
+principles of international law, which recognize the equality of nations
+as we recognize the equality of men. That, as it is the highest duty of
+every society to protect the weak from the strong, so the weak nations
+and struggling peoples should find ample protection in that sense of
+justice of the strong nations which they cannot lose and prosper.”
+
+Mr. Burlingame visited St. Petersburg the last of the European capitals,
+and died there at forty-eight years of age, on Washington’s birthday,
+1870, about a year after the original departure from China. I first met
+him when he had the Chinese Embassy in London, then frequently in Paris,
+and the last time in Stockholm before we left.
+
+
+ THE UNION PACIFIC RAILROAD.
+
+In the speech of Ex-Governor Alexander H. Bullock at this banquet, he
+said with reference to the mission of Burlingame, and the Union Pacific
+Railroad just completed:—
+
+“The great work is done, and hereafter the states are a unit in commerce
+as in government. Before my friend Mr. Burlingame has half completed his
+cosmopolitan mission, the freight trains have been made up at San
+Francisco, laden with the product of China, and by the time he shall
+have unpacked his trunks at Berlin, he may drink at the breakfast table
+his favorite tea, which, thanks to the irrepressible and irresistible
+Yankees, has been brought round to him the other way.”
+
+
+ THE CURTIN-DREXEL DINNER.
+
+My first thought of seeing _Le Canal de Suez_, of going to the opening
+ceremonies which took place on the 17th November, 1869, was the result
+of a dinner given at the rooms of Bowles Brothers & Co. early in July of
+that year.
+
+The dinner was given in honor of Governor Andrew G. Curtin of
+Pennsylvania, who had been appointed U. S. Minister to the Russian court
+at St. Petersburg, and was then _en route_ to his post, and to Mr.
+Anthony J. Drexel of Philadelphia, who was making his first visit to
+Paris after the establishment there of the branch house of Drexel,
+Harjes & Co.
+
+Among the guests present I can now recall the Hon. Elihu B. Washburn U.
+S. Minister at Paris, Hon. Anson Burlingame at the head of the Chinese
+Embassy, Major General the Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks M. C., Hon. Zachariah
+Chandler U. S. Senator, Hon. Fernando Wood M. C., Mr. John C. Lee, of
+Lee, Higginson & Co., and Mr. S. Endicott Peabody afterwards a partner
+in the house of J. S. Morgan & Co.
+
+Charles Bowles then and there suggested that General Banks and I go to
+the opening of the Suez Canal. I talked with the General about it and we
+agreed to meet in Paris the middle of September, and start on the trip.
+
+We went first to Hamburg, then to Copenhagen, where we arrived about the
+20th of September, and met General Waldemar Rudolph Raasloff, Chargé
+d’Affaires from Denmark to the United States, 1858 to 1862, Envoy
+Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary 1864 to 1866, and then on to
+Stockholm, where we saw a great deal of Mr. Burlingame, who had just
+arrived with the Chinese Embassy.
+
+
+ AT STOCKHOLM.
+
+From a letter written to my sister from Stockholm I take what follows
+under date of October 4, 1869:—“You will be, doubtless, somewhat
+surprised at seeing from the heading of this, how far I have managed to
+get from my beloved Paris without any previous warning. With General N.
+P. Banks M. C. from Massachusetts, I set out on the trip which he was
+very desirous of accomplishing, first through the north countries of
+Europe, and then through Russia to Constantinople and the opening of the
+Suez Canal.
+
+There is not a man in the United States just now who is a more valuable
+companion for such a trip.
+
+We have been passing several days here very pleasantly though quietly,
+and tonight after dining with the U. S. Minister, General C. C. Andrews,
+we take the steamer direct for Saint Petersburg, where I shall have an
+opportunity of revisiting and seeing in a more summer like garb the
+scenes of my former triumphs.
+
+Mr. Burlingame happens to be here with all the Chinese, and they cause
+an immense sensation in the city. The square in front of our hotel is
+continually crowded with groups of curious ones, trying to catch a
+glimpse of the Celestials, as they sit complacently at their windows and
+gaze and smile benignly on the people below.
+
+Mr. Burlingame, General Banks and I have long talks, lasting late into
+the night, about everything, which generally end in glorifying the
+grandeur of the great Republic.”
+
+
+ GENERAL BANKS, DENMARK AND SWEDEN.
+
+There is to be held this year (1904) a Shakesperian celebration marking
+the 300th anniversary of the first printed edition of the tragedy of
+Hamlet, and a portrait statue of Shakespere is to be erected on the road
+to Kronborg Castle, the foundations of which are now said to be insecure
+through the undermining of the tides. I remember well after our visit to
+Hamlet’s castle at Elsinore, and promenade on the terrace, when we
+returned to the hotel, and had dined, and were in adjoining rooms,
+before retiring, the General was full of the inspiration of the scene,
+and repeated to me many of the lines of Hamlet appropriate to the place
+and occasion. It seemed to me as if he knew the whole play by heart.
+
+At Stockholm the house he especially wanted to see was that of
+Swedenborg,—founder of the Swedenborg religion,—and we went there one
+day. It was a simple dwelling as I now recall it after these many years.
+We made an excursion, also, to the town of Upsala, famous for its
+university.
+
+The American Minister Gen. Christopher Columbus Andrews, of Minnesota,
+who had but recently been appointed, gave us a dinner, and all in his
+power to make our sojourn agreeable and instructive.
+
+
+ A REVIEW OF THE ARMY.
+
+We saw a review of the army by King Oscar, and were told afterwards how
+much he regretted he had not known we were there, so that he could have
+invited us to join his staff, and take part in it.
+
+
+ RAASLOFF, BANKS AND THE ISLANDS.
+
+In Copenhagen at the Raasloff lunch of perhaps 20, after he was elected
+deputy, General Banks made at table one of his effective impromptu short
+speeches. General Raasloff was the only candidate, and thus his election
+was not difficult, but he never recovered from the disappointment of our
+government not taking the island of St. Thomas, when he supposed it was
+all settled between the United States and Denmark. Banks was elected
+member of congress from Massachusetts in 1853, and 1855, Governor of the
+state from 1858 to 1861, elected member of congress again, with the
+exception of the election of 1872, from 1865 to 1877. In 1888, he was
+again elected, and served until 1890. He was chairman of the committee
+on foreign affairs of the U. S. House of Representatives in 1865 and
+later, including the years General Raasloff was minister from Denmark to
+the United States. I had heard him often speak of the purchase of Saint
+Thomas, and the disappointment of his friend General Raasloff at its
+nonaccomplishment.
+
+In his judgment we ought to own or control all the islands of the West
+Indies, showing the danger to us, as proved by the action of England
+during our civil war, of their being in the possession of governments
+that might be hostile. The blockade runners were almost entirely English
+ships, making money out of our troubles by supplying the Confederates
+with articles they needed, and receiving principally cotton in return,
+which was then selling at a tremendous price.
+
+If the advice of Banks had been followed, the War with Spain in 1898,
+which began by the desire to assist Cuba in gaining its independence,
+could not have occurred. He was one of the strongest advocates of the
+purchase of Alaska.
+
+During my travels with General Banks, then 53 years of age, from the
+middle of September, 1869, to the early part of December, I always found
+him a very abstemious man. I do not remember that he ever took a glass
+of spirits; I mean by this what are called hard liquors. At dinner he
+would take a little wine, and when I asked him what he preferred he
+would say, “Well, you know, I consider champagne the most agreeable,”
+and so once or twice a week we would have a bottle. Occasionally, at
+night, he would indulge in a glass of beer.
+
+Nor did he smoke at all. He would say to me, “I cannot smoke.” This
+reminds me that he never clipped expressions of the kind, i. e. he
+always said “I do not,” “I will not,” “I shall not,” instead of “I
+can’t,” “I don’t,” etc. It was a good lesson for me which I have tried
+to follow, for the abbreviations always seem to me cheap and
+undignified, especially when used in a speech or in writing. Of course
+in ordinary conversation it may be to a certain extent different, but,
+all the same, I prefer the two words to the shortening them into one.
+
+
+ TO ST. PETERSBURG.
+
+Crossing the Gulf of Finland, we stopped at several small towns on the
+way to St. Petersburg, where our new minister, Ex-Governor Curtin and
+the Secretary of Legation Mr. Titian J. Coffey of Pennsylvania, both of
+whom had been but a short time in the country, treated us most
+hospitably.
+
+
+ THE PRESENTATIONS.
+
+Writing from St. Petersburg on this date I said: “The 27th of October
+will be remembered by Americans as a day of great interest.”
+
+Today at 2 o’clock at the Winter Palace, our new minister Ex-Governor A.
+G. Curtin presented his credentials and was formally received by the
+Emperor Alexander II.
+
+Our minister’s speech and the reply by the Tsar, were short but to the
+point, and replete with sentiments of increasing friendship between the
+two great continental nations of the world, and the happy remarks about
+President Grant and the Emperor Alexander will be appreciated by the
+people of both countries. The secretary Mr. Titian J. Coffey, was
+presented at the same time, and the United States legation at Russia can
+well be proud of its representatives.
+
+
+ THE REVIEW.
+
+Another event of the day was the review of military forces stationed in
+and about the city, to the number of thirty-five thousand, which took
+place on the Champ de Mars. Two great reviews are held yearly in Saint
+Petersburg, one in the early spring and the other in January. The review
+of today was especially ordered by the Emperor, out of regular course,
+and whether or not it has any political significance was subject of
+speculation.
+
+The display was, as such things always are here, very fine, the beauty
+and strength of the Russian horses being especially observed.
+
+Besides General Banks there was present General Hiram Berdan, who has
+been for some time in Russia, and we understand that he has large
+contracts from the Russian government for supplying them with his
+improved musket and cartridges.
+
+
+ AGRICULTURAL EXHIBITION.
+
+In this month (October) there has been a very interesting exhibition of
+the different herds of cattle raised in the Russian Empire. This is the
+first exhibition of the kind ever held in the city, and it has been an
+object of great interest. The prizes were awarded yesterday by the Grand
+Duke Nicholas, and today the Emperor visited it in person. The ladies of
+the Court have been much interested in its success, and many of the
+farms in the neighborhood of the city where the finest stock is raised,
+are owned by members of the Imperial family. Its object is to improve
+the breed of all kinds of stock, and to assist as much as possible the
+Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, especially in
+everything that relates to preparing animal food for the market.
+
+
+ THE REVIEW OF THE TROOPS.
+
+I went to the Review with General Banks as if attached to his staff. We
+were both in uniform, he as a major general of United States Volunteers,
+and I as a captain of Light Artillery, in accordance with an Act of
+Congress which allows all honorably discharged officers of the Union
+army to appear in their highest brevet rank on any and all occasions
+during life when a uniform is the appropriate dress.
+
+As a general rule the other armies of Europe follow the customs of the
+great nations, and when the head of the government ordinarily wears a
+uniform of course the officers follow the example, making it their
+habitual dress. The Russian government dresses its men in the best of
+all colors, gray, and besides the trimness and inconspicuousness of the
+uniform itself they have many simple appliances, as for instance, the
+hood or basilisk, for the comfort of the soldier, for adopting which the
+rigorous climate of the country has doubtless contributed a great deal.
+The result is, that for thorough winter work I doubt if there is any
+soldier in Europe as well prepared as the Russians.
+
+Horses were there ready for us, and we rode along the lines and between
+the squares, on the staff of the Emperor himself. It was a fine sight
+and I was specially struck with the enthusiasm of the troops for their
+chief the Tsar. In no country is this carried to such a pitch as in
+Russia. The shouts of the men as he approaches are astonishing in their
+half-barbaric ecstasy, platoon after platoon taking up the cry in turn.
+The shouts of these strange looking Russians I thought at the time
+implied a power and assurance of fighting well for their country and the
+Tsar, whenever the time should come, different from the _élan_ of the
+French, the dogged determinedness of the English, or the severe
+discipline of the Prussians. Subsequent events proved that I was not
+wrong in my deductions.
+
+The army was under the command of the Tsar’s brother, the Grand Duke
+Nicholas, who turned it over to its real head as he came down at the
+last moment in his open drosky, and mounted his horse which was in
+readiness for him there.
+
+In connection with this review I recollect an amusing incident. It was
+in the month of October, and the weather was consequently becoming
+rather cold, and so a day or two before a general order was issued for
+the troops to appear in their overcoats. This made it a matter of
+etiquette for us, also, to wear some kind of overcoat, and as we neither
+of us had one of a military style, we went with our good-natured consul
+George Pomutz to a tailor, where we each ordered a little dark blue cape
+which must be made in a day’s time, and we thought would serve our
+purpose. They did do very well, and I have often used mine since in the
+militia, and once lent it to a lady to wear going to a dinner party,
+fastened with a bright brass button.
+
+
+ GENERAL HIRAM BERDAN.
+
+General Berdan, of rifle renown, happened then to be in St. Petersburg
+with one of his famous guns he was offering for the consideration of the
+Russian government, and he, too, was at the Review.
+
+
+ THE LOST SWORD.
+
+Fortunately I did not have with me my precious army sword, but one I had
+bought at Paris just before starting, an historic sword as the
+proprietor of the little shop in the Rue St. Honoré,—on the right from
+the Rue Castiglione, as you go towards the Rue Royale,—where I got it,
+told me that it had belonged to one of the suite of Napoleon at St.
+Helena, and that one of the family had brought it back.
+
+Just before General Banks and I left Saint Petersburg for Moscow, we
+heard that the railroad bridge over one of the great rivers had been
+burned. This was indeed the case as we found on arriving there shortly
+after dark, and we had to pass the night on the train where we were, and
+traverse the stream the next day in boats, rafts, or any way we could.
+
+As we had reached the southern side, and were stepping on to the bank
+from the boat, the sword slipped out of my bundle of rugs, and fell into
+the river, where I have no doubt it has remained to the present time.
+Morijiks tried to find it for me, but the water was very deep, the
+current swift, and it could not be recovered. I doubt if it was ever
+known how, or by whom and for just what purpose the bridge was fired,
+for it was generally believed to have been the work of an incendiary.
+
+A short time before, the railroad had been sold by the Winans people of
+Baltimore, who had built and largely owned it, for 7,000,000 roubles
+cash to the Court clique, headed by Count Strogonoff, who, by the way,
+came down on the same train with us to see what was the matter.
+
+All the old employés were discharged for some reason or other, and their
+places filled by Poles taken from the St. Petersburg and Warsaw
+railroad, and so very likely one, or several, of the men turned off,
+devised and carried out this plan of revenge.
+
+I remember that Governor Curtin and the Secretary Mr. Coffey, whom we
+had often seen during our stay in St. Petersburg, came to see us off at
+the station. We experienced great difficulty in getting any kind of
+information as to the situation, but we were determined to start and run
+the chance, as we had but little time to catch our boat at Odessa. As it
+was, we lost about twenty-four hours, reaching Moscow just one day later
+than we should.
+
+It was during our sojourn at St. Petersburg that I received, thanks to
+Mr. Charles Bowles then in America, an invitation from the Board of
+Trade of my native city of Boston, of which the Hon. Alexander H. Rice
+was then president, to be its delegate for the opening ceremonies of the
+Suez Canal, and to write a report thereon. I consider this as the
+beginning of my service in the interest of a canal across the American
+Isthmus, for instead of going to Egypt merely as a tourist and
+spectator, I had some work to do by which my attention was specially
+called to the subject of ship canals. Certain it is that since that time
+with many other occupations it has constantly been before my mind and is
+so now.
+
+
+ INDIVIDUAL ENTERPRISE.
+
+To beguile the time on board ship I jotted down the following notes,
+Odessa, Nov. 7, 1869:—
+
+“The idea strikes me forcibly here—that of individual enterprise, or
+rather great results accomplished by individuals—because the prosperity
+of this city is mainly due to the unaided efforts of two persons. First
+the Duke de Richelieu, a French nobleman who may be regarded as its
+founder, and, secondly, Prince Woronzoff, for many years the Russian
+governor of the province.
+
+How much any one man can accomplish if he will devote himself entirely
+to the attempt, and what a field there is today for such ambition in the
+United States of America! We must have the Darien Canal cut, we must
+have our commerce stimulated by a changed tariff; we must have cheaper
+internal transportation for our products, and then there will be little
+talk about the national debt. The Secretary of the Treasury will not
+have to sell gold in Wall street.”
+
+
+ ON THE WAY TO SUEZ.
+
+Passing in our journey from the cold autumn weather of Russia, partly by
+rail and partly by boat and across the Mediterranean, we reached the
+glorious sun of Constantinople and the tropical warmth of Egypt.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ FERDINAND DE LESSEPS, 1869.
+]
+
+At Odessa we joined an excursion party in one of the boats of the
+Russian Navigation Company the “General Kotzebue,” to Constantinople,
+Rhodes, Port Said, Ismailia, Suez, passing through the canal, Cairo by
+rail, Alexandria, and then by Brindisi and the Mount Cenis Tunnel back
+to Paris in December.
+
+General Banks ought to have been invited to represent the government of
+the nation, he was then member of congress and chairman of the committee
+on foreign affairs in the house of representatives, but he was not
+appointed.
+
+It was on this occasion that I made the acquaintance of Count Ferdinand
+de Lesseps, the hero of the canal, and my journey with General Banks
+deserves more than a passing notice, for his varied experience of the
+past, and his penetrating observation of the present, had given him
+facilities for seeing and judging things in a manner which could not
+fail to be instructive. The strong American stamp of his character,
+while exciting my youthful enthusiasm did not bias him in his judgment
+of European or Oriental customs or forms of government. From his mind
+wonderful photographs were taken as we travelled together from the North
+to the South, and his quiet and dignified encouragement of my
+aspirations so naturally given in the offhand intimacy of a journey,
+with the mixture of petty pleasures and annoyances, were a stimulus
+which came very opportune to me and which I was not likely to forget.
+
+Accidentally, too, at different stages of our wanderings, we were thrown
+in with several other marked and representative types of Americans;
+among them at Stockholm the noble Burlingame since then taken away in
+the midst of his grand work of Chinese regeneration; Governor Curtin the
+war governor of Pennsylvania, the genial, kindly, bright, wiry type of
+American politician, and the well-known American dentist of Paris, Dr.
+Thomas W. Evans, whose intimacy with the French Emperor Napoleon III,
+and knowledge of the inner history of the past twenty years in Paris,
+made him an agreeable and valued companion.
+
+With the healthy glow of travel, at the most delightful season of the
+year, and the excitement of military reviews and gala fêtes at the
+different capitals visited, all ending with the gorgeous Aladdin-like
+enchantments of the week in Egypt, when Europe, Asia, Africa, aye and
+America, came at the invitation of the Khedive, and led by the graceful
+Empress Eugénie, offered their congratulations at the completion of that
+international work of peace, the Suez Canal,—and the opportunity of
+seeing these sights in the presence of many of the most distinguished
+personages alive, and of discussing them with advanced minds amid the
+surroundings of attractive places,—what than this could be a better
+phase of education?
+
+
+ CONSTANTINOPLE.
+
+On arriving at Constantinople the captain of the steamer gave all the
+passengers a couple of days to spend in seeing the wonders of this
+extraordinary city before continuing our journey.
+
+We went to the best hotel, and, after breakfasting, whom should we meet
+in the hall but my old Harvard classmate Jeremiah Curtin vice consul at
+St. Petersburg. Curtin is the translator of “Quo Vadis” by the Polish
+author Henryk Sienkiewicz, published by Little, Brown & Co. of
+Boston,—John Murray Brown our classmate being a member of the firm,—and
+dedicated to another member of our class Auguste Comte of San Francisco.
+
+I had seen Curtin in Moscow, when I was there in January, 1867. General
+Banks had known him in Washington, Curtin’s headquarters when not on his
+journeys of investigation, and he was very glad to meet us both. What he
+was doing in Turkey we could not quite make out, but I think in the
+interest of Russia he was quietly watching the movements of the Slavonic
+elements there, and through the Danubian principalities. Besides this he
+was writing letters for one of the great New York papers. Mr. Curtin
+told us that for the morning he met us he was to have by appointment an
+interview with the Patriarch of Constantinople the head of the Greek
+Church there, and invited us to accompany him, and we were only too glad
+to thus have an opportunity for seeing this distinguished personage.
+
+The Metropolitan of Moscow and the Patriarch of Constantinople are two
+of the heads of the Greek Church. We went to see the Patriarch simply as
+the head of the Turkish branch of the Church.
+
+We started from the hotel on horseback, and, winding down some narrow
+streets to the water, crossed it at the Golden Horn, and were soon in
+the old part of the city on the other side, threading our way to where
+the Patriarch lived, amidst the ancient houses and quaint shops which
+were swarming with inhabitants, until we arrived at the door.
+
+We were taken up into quite a large room with divans all around it, and
+ushered into the presence of the Patriarch, who sat tranquilly in one
+corner.
+
+He was an aged, fine looking gentleman, with long, flowing locks and
+beard, and received us most graciously.
+
+We talked, through an interpreter, on various matters, and, after
+partaking of sweetmeats and coffee, retired very much gratified with the
+interview.
+
+His dress, as also that of the interpreter, was curious; being a
+combination of Oriental robes and church trappings like all the
+religious officers of the Greek Church. It is striking and effective.
+
+
+ ARRIVAL AT PORT SAID.
+
+It was on November 15th a little before sundown that our vessel the
+“General Kotzebue” entered the harbor of Port Said, with a very
+agreeable company of Russians, and came to anchor in its proper place
+about seven o’clock.
+
+We took our position on the right in entering. The Emperor of Austria
+had entered just before us. Salutes were fired.
+
+We went on shore to see the U. S. Consul, but he was not at home. Left
+cards on Mr. de Lesseps and strolled about the town. Left cards on the
+Vice Roi in his yacht, and saw Nuba Pacha. Met Dr. Evans and Dr. Edward
+A. Crane,—a well known member of the American colony in Paris and for
+many years editor of _The American Register_ of that city owned by Dr.
+Evans,—on the street at Port Said. Later we go to the reception in the
+yacht of the Vice Roi or Khedive, a splendid boat, and I was there
+presented to the enterprising ruler of Egypt, and first met Mr. de
+Lesseps himself, who from that time has been one of my favorite heroes,
+and who I am free to admit I consider the most remarkable man of our
+day.
+
+As I now look back through many years to that week of fêtes in the land
+of the Pharaohs, I have a kaleidoscopic vision of enchantment worthy of
+the Arabian Nights, and perceive through the charm and mystery of the
+Orient, a work of practical modern progress which it softens and adorns.
+
+
+ RETURN TO PARIS.
+
+I was with General Banks in Paris after our return from Egypt about ten
+days in December, 1869, when he and I, with Paul Forbes, Anthoine de
+Gogorza, Alexandre Boyer, two Erlangers, Emile and Louis Count
+Excelmans, Dr. Evans, General Charles B. Norton, and others, were
+organizing the Darien Canal Company. Then he went to Washington for the
+session of congress, and I remained in Paris.
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER NINTH.
+ ALEXANDER II. AND EMANCIPATION.
+
+ “Though watery deserts hold apart
+ The worlds of East and West,
+ Still beats the self-same human heart
+ In each proud nation’s breast.
+
+ Our floating turret tempts the main
+ And dares the howling blast,
+ To clasp more close the golden chain
+ That long has bound them fast.
+
+ In vain the gales of ocean sweep,
+ In vain the billows roar,
+ That chain the wild and stormy steep
+ Of storied Elsinore.
+
+ She comes! She comes! Her banner dips
+ In Neva’s flashing tide,
+ With greetings on her cannon’s lips
+ The storm-god’s iron bride.
+
+ · · · · ·
+
+ No prairies heaped their garnered store
+ To fill her sunless hold.
+ Not rich Nevada’s gleaming ore
+ Its hidden caves enfold.
+
+ But lightly as the sea bird swings
+ She floats the depth above;
+ A breath of flame to lend her wings—
+ Her freight, a people’s love.
+
+ When darkness hid the stormy skies
+ In war’s long winter night,
+ One ray still cheered our straining eyes,
+ The far off northern light.
+
+ And now the friendly rays return
+ From lights that glow afar,
+ Those clustered lamps of heaven that burn
+ Around the western star.
+
+ A nation’s love in tears and smiles
+ We bear across the sea:
+ O! Neva of the banded isles,
+ We moor our hearts to thee.”
+
+ —_Oliver Wendell Holmes on Fox’s Mission to Russia_, 1866.
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ ALEXANDER II., 1866
+]
+
+
+ THE TERRITORY OF RUSSIA.
+
+Forty-two years have passed since in Novgorod, the oldest town, Russia
+celebrated the one thousandth anniversary of its birth, and erected a
+monument consisting of an enormous globe, in the midst of emblematic and
+historical figures. The original Russia was a republic. It occupied a
+small district near the sources of the Dneiper and Western Dvina, and
+the site of the future city of Novgorod. Its name was derived from Rūs
+the patronymic of three brothers of a Variag tribe belonging to the
+settlement. The oldest brother was called Rurik.
+
+More than six hundred years had passed, when in the South, Ivan III.
+united the independent principalities of Moscow, and, in 1505, cast off
+the Tartar yoke from these states, whose rulers proclaimed themselves
+Tsars, and which were accidentally discovered in 1553, on the White Sea,
+by an English navigator seeking for a short route to China and India. A
+commercial acquaintance was formed which has been intermittently
+sustained ever since with England.
+
+In 1570, was inaugurated the Russian principle of expansion, by
+conquering the republic of the North and annexing it to Moscow. In this
+process it is said 60,000 human beings were sacrificed. In a circular
+recently issued by the Ministry of Public Instruction through the
+curators of the several educational districts, instructing the directors
+of secondary schools to instil into the minds of their pupils a correct
+theory of the war of the present year (1904) emphasis is given to the
+method of treatment of the Russian colonies compared with that received
+by those pertaining to other countries.
+
+It says:—“The western European states draw from their colonies an
+immense income, they live on them. Russia expends on her periphery a
+very considerable sum annually, and receives nothing from them in
+return. The Russian periphery flourishes at the expense of the centre.”
+
+This periphery embraces the colonies of Finland, the Caucasus, the
+Central Asiatic possessions and Manchuria.
+
+During the reign of Alexander I. the Grand Duchy of Finland, which
+stretches from the Gulf of Finland to the Polar Sea, by the peace of
+Friederichshamm was ceded to Russia by Sweden in 1809, and Poland was
+acquired in 1814. In 1867, Russia possessed about 106,951 Russian square
+miles in Europe and the Caucasus, 248,470 in Asia, and 24,210 square
+miles which were ceded to the United States in that year. Now behold a
+great empire with a territory stretching from the Baltic to the Northern
+Pacific, and from the Polar Sea to the frontiers of Turkey, Persia,
+Afghanistan and China, crossed by systematically extended lines of
+railway, and divided as in the United States of America, into two
+portions, whose sources of development, difference in soil, character of
+colonization and products, call for constant reference to the
+distinctive titles of “the North” and “the South.” Moscow, the
+commercial and industrial capital of the empire, which has remained the
+home of passive conservatism and an asylum for the discontented,
+preserves the tombs of the Grand Princes, and the palace in which the
+Tsars of Muscovy lived and other monuments made sacred by tradition, six
+centuries of historical associations surrounding the Kremlin.
+
+St. Petersburg, a cosmopolitan city was built on a European design
+especially favoring French models, with the purpose frankly avowed by
+Peter the Great of having “a window by which the Russians might look
+into civilized Europe.” Like Odessa it has more of a foreign than a
+Russian character, but not more than one tenth of the population are
+dwellers in the city, while the agricultural element is ever expanding.
+
+
+ THE SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT.
+
+The historical development of Russia has been peculiar, and her social
+and political organization differs radically from that of the countries
+of western Europe. Its autocracy is founded on the unbounded hereditary
+devotion of the people,—peasantry and nobles alike. The entire
+government of the vast empire is administered from St. Petersburg, on
+the principle that the people are incapable of understanding the methods
+of governing their local affairs, and from that or from other reasons,
+are not to be trusted with them, so that the local self government is
+anomalous. Created by autocratic power through a commission appointed
+for the purpose of “conferring more unity and independence on the local
+economic administration,” it has not grown into an institution from
+popular wants publicly declared, petitioned for and advocated, but
+derives its main motive power and maintenance from the Central
+Government which controls it. Peter the Great (1682–1725) introduced
+uniformity and symmetry into the administration of public affairs. After
+the death of Patriarch Adrian of the Greek Church, and an interregnum of
+twenty years, Peter supplied his place by an ecclesiastical council a
+synod which still remains the highest ecclesiastical authority, in which
+as a contemporary observed “the mainspring was Peter’s power, and the
+pendulum his understanding.”
+
+The members of the Synod are appointed by the Tsar who is accountable to
+no one. Next to him in temporal power come the Council of State, the
+Committee of Ministers, and the Senate, which is the sole Court of
+Revision for the Justice of Peace Courts and for the Regular Tribunals,
+and is the regulator of the whole judicial system of the empire. Below
+these are ten ministries, viz., the Ministries of the Interior, Public
+Works, State Demesnes, Finance, Justice, Public Instruction, War, Navy,
+Foreign Affairs, and the Imperial Court.
+
+The territorial administration is divided into provinces, and each
+province into districts, all varying greatly in size. Over each province
+is a governor, vice-governor, and council. The governor is the local
+representative of the Ministry of the Interior and each of the other
+ministries have their bureaus and representatives in the provinces drawn
+chiefly from the nobility and the clergy. Every province and each of the
+ten districts into which it is divided, has an assembly of deputies and
+an executive bureau elected by the assembly from among its members, but
+the president of the assembly is a Marshal of the Noblesse, and a limit
+is placed to the taxation of trade and industry. The deputies are
+elected by the landed proprietors of the rural communes, composed of
+peasants, and the municipal corporations. The members of the Assembly
+for the provinces are elected by the District Assemblies. The system of
+government for the towns differs essentially from that of the country,
+the towns receiving the advantage of the development of trade and
+industry, the establishment of schools, etc. They are of three kinds,
+“Government towns,” “District towns,” and supernumerary, each divided
+into merchants, nondescript, and artisans, the artisans being partly
+made up from the population of the agricultural districts. The towns
+have a mayor and council.
+
+
+ THE SERFS.
+
+Moscow has been described as the centre from which serfage radiated,
+decreasing toward the north, east, and south.
+
+According to the documents of the several periods and the statements of
+travellers, the rural population of Russia was composed originally of
+three classes, viz., slaves who were made so by various causes—some
+prisoners of war, others freemen who had sold themselves as slaves,
+others insolvent debtors and convicts. One grade higher were the free
+farm hands who wandered from place to place, wherever they could find
+work, and then the peasants or small farmers, a distinct class by
+themselves, who were highest in the social scale, and who were
+possessors of land and of their personal liberty. But in the eighteenth
+century these distinctions gradually became obliterated on account of
+the disproportion between the small number of laborers and the large
+amount of irreclaimable land, systematized immigration being impossible,
+and all the classes were rolled into one under the name of “serfs,” who
+were owned by the great landed proprietors or by the state, and being
+held as property were bought and sold in families and singly, and were
+deprived of legal protection by the Government according to the ukazes
+of October 13, 1675, and June 25, 1682, which sanctioned the practice of
+selling peasants and the exaction of the payment to the Government of
+dues on the sales of slaves. Free peasants were often kidnapped from
+weaker by more powerful proprietors and made serfs, while the same class
+although nominally free were so valuable to those who possessed their
+services that they were not allowed to leave their borders, so by this
+means, and often by reason of debts contracted to the proprietor a large
+number became practically serfs before serfage was established by law,
+_i.e._ before the Tsars discharged their obligations to the nobles by
+bestowing upon them a certain amount of land with a certain number of
+laborers attached, thus legalizing serfage and the return of fugitive
+slaves. A small proportion of the nobles who lived on their estates held
+the peasants as slaves.
+
+Under Peter the Great (1682–1725) and his immediate successor every man
+was compelled to serve the state, and every proprietor paid the poll tax
+of his serfs, who were thus reckoned as taxable property, and every
+unattached laborer was arrested as a vagrant. In 1766, by imperial
+ukaze, the proprietors or masters had a right to transport unruly serfs
+to Siberia for life without trial. In 1767 and 1781, it was ordered that
+those who entered complaints against their masters, should be punished
+with the knout or sent to the mines, or, what they feared most, made to
+join the Army as recruits. In extreme cases of the cruelty of
+proprietors, the authorities interfered by direction of the Tsar, who
+happened to be informed of it. In 1792, the serfs were bought and sold,
+and given away as part of the masters’ working capital, in large and
+small numbers, with and without the land, but they were not allowed to
+be sold by auction, nor to be offered for sale at the time of the
+conscriptions. From 1792 to 1861, the estimate of a noble’s fortune was
+based on the number of serfs he owned.
+
+The Emperor Paul toward the close of the 18th century (1796–1801)
+desiring to limit the authority of the proprietors, issued an ukaze that
+the serfs should not be forced to work for their masters more than three
+days in the week, but many paid no attention to it, and the serfs still
+had no legal standing in court in order to make a complaint. There were
+indeed enlightened, humane proprietors who protected those for whom they
+were responsible from outside interference, and under whose management
+the life of the serf was much easier than that of agricultural laborers
+in some countries who are free, but serfage generally, was the reverse
+of this type. The worst suffering was from the hands of speculators who
+bought up the land in order to make money in the shortest possible time,
+and parted with the land and the families on it indiscriminately.
+
+Even among uncivilized tribes the Russian peasant is good natured,
+easily conciliated, and patient under extreme hardship. He readily
+adapts himself to circumstances.
+
+In the ordinary relations which existed between the serf and the
+proprietor the manor land and the communal land were kept separate. From
+the laborers on the rural commune land or village system,—the rural
+commune contains five-sixths of the population,—where a share of land
+was distributed to each serf, labor dues, a certain number of days’
+labor per week, were exacted, also, dues consisting of the products of
+the farm and the spinning wheel, in the case of the absence of the serfs
+who were at work in the cities or larger towns but retaining, whether
+they desired it or not, their membership in the commune. A large
+proportion of the serfs could read and write and were enterprising,
+self-reliant, and independent.
+
+
+ EMANCIPATION OF THE SERFS.
+
+The Russian proverb, “A story is soon told but a thing is not soon
+done,” may be consistently applied to their great reform, one of the
+most interesting events of modern history,—the Emancipation of the
+Serfs. An effort was made for freedom in 1762, by an insurrection led by
+a Cossack with a scheme for creating a peasant empire, but he soon met
+with defeat and his plan failed.
+
+In 1801, Alexander I. attempted to ameliorate the condition of the
+serfs, and entertained several projects for a general emancipation, and
+Nicholas encouraged the consideration of the question by permitting six
+committees to be formed for the purpose. The result was that some
+thousands of serfs were emancipated, the custom of giving grants of land
+with peasants was abolished, a number of the worst masters were removed
+from their estates, and some, convicted of murder, were sent to Siberia.
+Yet, when a general emancipation was really inaugurated, the leading
+organs of the press acknowledged indebtedness to the Crimean War for
+opening the eyes of the country to the dark side of their political and
+social organization. It produced an intellectual movement and a moral
+revival which led to gigantic results. Their foes in the Crimea, said a
+Russian writer of the time, whose manuscript was widely circulated but
+never printed, were “British statesmen,” “the crowned conspirator of
+France,” “treacherous Austria,” and “Western Europe generally.” Militia
+regiments were everywhere raised throughout the country, and many landed
+proprietors spent large sums in equipping volunteer corps, but
+unscrupulous members of the commissary department enriched themselves at
+the expense of these patriotic efforts, and the deficiency of the
+country in regard to the resources necessary for a prolonged conflict,
+were soon manifest. “Another year of war,” wrote an eye witness in 1855,
+“and the whole of Southern Russia will be ruined.”
+
+In this conflict it was the aim of the Tsar Nicholas to realize the
+grand idea of Catherine II., consort of Peter III. who succeeded to his
+throne, of driving the Turks out of Europe, but the Allies were
+victorious, and even the despised Turks made a successful stand on the
+line of the Danube, and when he, the “Iron Tsar,” the sworn enemy of
+liberalism, died in a soldier’s humble quarters in the Crimea, the
+system he created,—which through the sacrifice of the intelligence of
+the people to the increase of military power proved the chief cause it
+was claimed of the national disasters,—died with him, and as soon as
+peace had been concluded Alexander II. accepting the responsibility of
+the dying words of Nicholas, “my successor may do as he pleases, but I
+cannot change,” began a reign by which the public administration of
+affairs was to be improved, in the words of his manifesto “by the
+combined efforts of the Government and the people,” not secretly by the
+Administration as had been the custom in making slight changes.
+
+In March, 1856, soon after the close of the Crimean War Alexander II.
+addressed to the Marshals of the Noblesse of Moscow the following
+words:—
+
+“For the removal of certain unfounded reports I consider it necessary to
+declare to you that I have not at present the intention of annihilating
+serfage, but, certainly, as you yourselves know, the existing manner of
+possessing serfs cannot remain unchanged. It is better to abolish
+serfage from above, than to await the time when it will begin to abolish
+itself from below. I request you, gentlemen, to consider how this can be
+put into execution, and to submit my words to the noblesse for their
+consideration.”
+
+These enunciations were received with indifference, and further action
+was indefinitely postponed, to the great disappointment of the Tsar, who
+at once instituted a committee called “Chief Committee of Peasant
+Affairs,” composed of high officers of the state, and great land owners,
+among them the Grand Duke Constantine, who should privately work for
+these ends, and who would make a study of the subject for six months,
+and on the assumption that the Lithuanian provinces where the serfs were
+in a miserable condition desired it, “The Rescript of Nazimof” was
+prepared, empowering the proprietors to form committees for the study of
+this project with a view to definite results in effecting the gradual
+abolition of serfage, and four days later a circular was sent by
+direction of the Tsar, to the Governors and Marshals of Noblesse all
+over Russia, informing them of the action relative to the Lithuanian
+Provinces, and a copy of the rescript was furnished them in case they
+were disposed to follow suit. This circular produced an immense
+sensation. Its meaning was unmistakable, and convincing to loyal
+subjects of the Tsar, for a few weeks later he made public announcement
+of his wish that, with the help of God, and the co-operation of the
+Noblesse, the great work would be accomplished. The public press most
+enthusiastically sustained this liberal movement for the amelioration of
+the condition of so large a proportion of the population and welcomed
+the dawn of a glorious epoch for the nation in which this obstacle to
+moral progress, a relic of barbarism, should be removed, and Russia be
+placed on equality with the nations of the West, and with these
+advocates were joined a majority of the noblesse, among whom were
+numerous educated young enthusiasts, while some still clung to serfage
+as an indispensable source of revenue not to be obtained except under
+the rigid rule of the master, and a part of the land was to be let go to
+the peasants. These considerations formed an adverse current which was
+felt throughout the country, but no open opposition to the will of the
+Tsar was allowed to manifest itself, because of its utter futility.
+Still, when in 1857, it became evident that the emancipation of the
+serfs was really at hand the prospect raised terrible forebodings in the
+minds of masters, stewards, and employers of serfs. By law, it appeared
+that the peasants would receive the land which they occupied on
+sufferance, comprising half of the entire arable land of some estates,
+but no pasturage, and it was feared that the emancipated peasants would
+be content to live by the cultivation of their own land, and would not
+consent on any terms to work for their former masters.
+
+During the year 1858, committees were formed for the purposes of
+emancipation in every province where serfage existed, the projects which
+they proposed being always subject to revision and approval or rejection
+by the Government. The fundamental principles of the movement were
+intended to accomplish the work of emancipation by allowing the serfs to
+remain for a time on the land subject to the authority of the
+proprietors, and during this time they should become possessors, by many
+payments or by labor, of their houses and gardens, and have the
+temporary use of a certain quantity of land sufficient for their own
+support, and their taxes to the proprietors and the State. The limit of
+this transition period does not seem to have been prescribed. The next
+move was the appointment of an “Elaboration Commission,” composed of
+officials and landed proprietors named by the Tsar, which formulated a
+new plan, approved by the Tsar, in which the idea of gradual
+emancipation was eliminated, and its place was supplied by a general law
+for the complete abolition of the authority of the proprietor over the
+serf. Thus the serfs were to be transformed into small proprietors of a
+commune or village, possessing a house and garden and a section of
+communal land. The serf was to be declared personally free, and a price
+was to be fixed by Government for the rent of the land. As to the
+amount, that was limited to the land actually enjoyed by the peasants.
+Before the project became a law, deputies from the Provincial Committees
+were summoned to St. Petersburg for consultation in matters of detail
+before the commission, but this was a mere formality and added nothing
+to the influence of the Provincial Committees, or to future results. The
+autocratic power remained supreme. In the opinion of the Tsar, “The
+autocratic power created serfage, and the autocratic power ought to
+abolish it.”
+
+In 1861, as the time drew nearer there was great excitement all over
+Russia. An actor in one of the St. Petersburg theatres shouted from the
+stage,—“Let us proclaim throughout all Russia that the time has come for
+tearing up evil by the roots!” And the audience responded with frantic
+demonstrations of enthusiasm. Speech was free, open, and unrestrained by
+police or press censors, and public attention was absorbed by the great
+practical issues of the day. The Crimean war had shown the necessity of
+constructing railroads, improving roads, and steamboat communication on
+the rivers, of developing the natural resources, and had taught them the
+lesson that even an efficient army could not be produced from an
+ignorant population. Accordingly in current speech and in the public
+press different methods of education were discussed, and reforms in all
+the branches of the civil service, and as a result of all this they
+expected an increase of military power and the consequent respect of
+Western nations.
+
+For the furtherance of these reforming projects, for the reason that
+twenty millions of the people, one third of the population, were in a
+state of bondage, precedence was given to the question of the condition
+of the serfs. There were 100,247 landed proprietors, and of these more
+than 41,000 were possessors of less than twenty-one male serfs. A
+proprietor who was owner of 500 serfs was not considered very rich, and
+there were only 3,803 of these. There were a few whose possessions were
+enormous. One of the nobles possessed more than 150,000 male serfs, more
+than 300,000 souls; the latter estimate naturally including females,
+though the Russians have a popular saying that “Women have no souls at
+all, but only a vapor.” Another noble owned more than half a million of
+acres of land, another extensive mines, but there were few very rich
+families. By far the greater part of the territory belonged to the
+state, and one-half of the rural population were state peasants whose
+condition differed from the other serfs in that they had more land and
+more liberty, and their position was not so precarious.
+
+Agriculture and the industries languished for the lack of free labor,
+and upon the nation’s honor was the stigma of slavery.
+
+The emancipation law which was signed February 19, 1861, Old Style, or
+March 3d as we reckon time, liberated twenty millions of serfs. The
+manifesto with which the peasantry is said to have been disappointed,
+was read in all the churches and contained these fundamental principles,
+to wit:—
+
+“1. That the serfs should at once receive the civil rights of the free
+rural classes, and that the authority of the proprietors should be
+replaced by communal self-government.
+
+2. That the rural communes should as far as possible retain the land
+they actually held, and should in return pay to the proprietor certain
+yearly dues in money or labor.
+
+3. That the Government should by means of credit, assist the communes to
+redeem these dues, or, in other words, to purchase the lands ceded to
+them in usufruct.”
+
+The domestic serfs should continue to serve their masters two years, and
+thereafter they should be completely free, but would have no claim on
+the land. The disappointment in the minds of the peasants was in the
+disposition of the land. Many desired that all the land should be given
+to the Communes, making the emancipation in accordance with traditional
+right and their material advantage, instead of which they were still to
+pay dues on land they believed to be their own by right. The Noblesse
+were well pleased with the manifesto.
+
+After a delay of three months, “Arbiters of the Peace” were appointed,
+to regulate the future relations between the proprietors and peasantry
+and in the interval cases of insubordination were frequent, and even
+riots, when order was preserved by the calling out of the troops. The
+“Arbiters of the Peace” when organized restored order and regulated the
+land question, issued charters, etc. between the proprietors and serfs,
+legalizing the new agreements, with or without their consent. In this
+reconstruction many differences were to be reconciled owing to the
+distrust of the freed serfs, but gradually they came to know the
+situation better and to help in the progress of the work, which has
+advanced slowly but surely, notwithstanding the complaints in some
+instances of the Noblesse, through the wonderful tact of the
+conscientious “Arbiters of the Peace.”
+
+The law relating to the dues was as follows:—The dues were capitalised
+at six per cent and the Government paid at once to the proprietors
+four-fifths of the whole sum. The peasants were to pay to the proprietor
+the remaining fifth, either at once or in installments, and to the
+Government six per cent, for forty-nine years, on the sum advanced. This
+arrangement was willingly acceded to by the proprietors but the peasants
+were so backward in their payments, that in most cases their fifth had
+to be remitted.
+
+Of this gigantic, though gradual, reform the Tsar Alexander II. is
+acknowledged by all to be the chief and most energetic and judicious
+promoter. He was ably assisted by his brother the Grand Duke Constantine
+and the Grand Duchess Helena, a German Princess, aided by the Noblesse
+and the landed proprietors, who when assured that emancipation was
+inevitable joined enthusiastically in its execution, and also by the
+peasantry of the better sort as soon as they comprehended the advantages
+of the law which gave them back their original status in the social
+scale, and made them once more personally free.
+
+
+ AFTER EMANCIPATION.
+
+It was so-called freedom in 1861, but they had to serve as they had done
+for two years longer, for the law had a provision enjoining them to obey
+and work as hard as of old until some new arrangement should be made. On
+appealing to the authorities the field work was executed, after a
+fashion, but the harvest suffered for a few years, until the peasants
+began to realize the burden of the taxes they were obliged to pay on the
+land, as well as support themselves, and consented to work in the fields
+of their former owners for a moderate compensation, taking advantage of
+the scarcity of labor, and taking their leave on a word or two too much
+from their employers, who are dependent upon them. Previous to
+emancipation it was said that the Russians had little or no practical
+acquaintance with pauperism, but now some became fugitives, and made it
+a permanent condition of life, wandering through the cities and villages
+as professing pilgrims or beggars, and were supported by the alms giving
+of the merchants, the public generally and the monasteries.
+
+
+ THE RURAL COMMUNES.
+
+The government of the Rural Commune or Mir, as established by the Act of
+Emancipation, is by a Village Assembly and a Village Elder, but the
+Elder’s authority is limited by the heads of households, all having a
+common responsibility and paying a fixed sum into the common treasury;
+even the time of planting, mowing and harvesting, being regulated by the
+Assembly, and all the households are equally responsible for the taxes
+and dues. The consent of the Assembly must be obtained if a peasant
+desires to work in the larger towns, for his liabilities must be made
+secure.
+
+Every year the Village has to pay a certain sum into the Imperial
+Treasury, according to the number of male peasants; each Village
+distributing the land, according to its own judgment, with taxes and
+dues in proportion to the land, sometimes according to the working power
+of the families, which may change every few years, males and females
+alike working on the land.
+
+In the meetings of the assemblies the majority rules, and is decided by
+a Court of the members, composed of heads of households of both sexes,
+standing in groups out of doors.
+
+The office of Village Elder is sometimes elective, at others he is
+appointed by the landed proprietor. The office is not sought for, the
+duties being troublesome and annoying, and the pay small. In the
+allotment of the land the number of shares of which may or may not be of
+advantage, according to the peculiar circumstances of each, the decision
+of the Commune is accepted without demur. Some of these divisions take
+place annually, others at irregular intervals. The system compels the
+peasant to possess land whether he or she desires it or not. Every
+peasant, by the simple fact of his birth, possesses an inalienable right
+to a share of the land.
+
+All that is necessary for their existence, their houses, land,
+agricultural implements etc., are exempt from sequestration, and cannot
+be taken for debt. The peasants on the land belonging to the state, have
+no masters, but are not allowed to change their official domicile. They
+pay taxes and dues. Many of them have left the villages and have amassed
+fortunes in the cities, still retaining their hold on the land by paying
+the taxes. The remaining land belongs to rich nobles, who rarely visit
+their estates, and the condition of the peasants is much the same as
+that of the state peasants, while others live on their estates.
+
+Now, forty-three of the forty-nine years have passed, and in January,
+1904, the Tsar Nicholas II. grandson of Alexander II., in response to
+calls for legislation relative to a new draft of the present code, with
+complaints of arbitrary conduct by the administrative machinery from the
+highest assemblies to the local committees, stipulates that changes on
+three points shall be reserved from discussion, namely, that the peasant
+class must remain entirely separate, legally, from the other classes;
+that the Commune is to remain untouched by legislation, and that the
+peasant lands are to remain inalienable. The autocratic power still
+remains supreme. March 3, 1904, for the first time since the
+Emancipation of the serfs the anniversary was officially observed
+throughout the empire as a general holiday and with special services in
+the churches. Thousands stood in the open air, uncovered, in the great
+central market of St. Petersburg chanting a Te Deum.
+
+
+ DEATH OF ALEXANDER II.
+
+I was returning to my room in Paris, late one Sunday night in March,
+1881, having passed an agreeable evening, first dining at my old
+classmate’s, E. D. Boit’s, then listening to some music and meeting some
+pleasant people at the house of another artist Mr. G. P. A. Healy, and
+last calling with Wad Longfellow upon the Kings, when I heard a newsman
+on the boulevard crying out something exciting though I could not catch
+what it was. I bought his extra, “le Soir,” took it to my room, and
+found that the news was nothing less than this time the successful
+assassination on the 13th of the Emperor of Russia.
+
+It made quite an impression upon me as I thought it over, not only
+because I had met the Tsar two or three times, but also from the
+interest I felt he had taken in the cause of the Union during our civil
+war; that he among the crowned heads of the world had been, if not our
+only, at least our out-spoken friend and sympathizer.
+
+How much in common there was both in the life and death of Alexander II.
+and Abraham Lincoln! Each of these men in his own land had been the
+originator and bold champion of a plan of emancipation, and each of them
+had at length fallen by the hand of an assassin!
+
+Prince Kropotkin in 1899, gave to the _Atlantic Monthly_ the following
+account of the death of the Tsar:—
+
+“A bomb was thrown under the Tsar’s iron-clad carriage. Several
+Circassians of the escort were wounded. Rysakoff, who flung the bomb,
+was arrested on the spot. Then, although the coachman of the Tsar
+earnestly advised him not to get out, saying that he could drive him
+still in the slightly damaged carriage, he stepped out. He felt that his
+military dignity required him to see the wounded Circassians, to condole
+with them, as he had done with the wounded during the Turkish war, when
+a mad storming of Plevna, doomed to end in terrible disaster, was made
+on the day of his fête.
+
+He approached Rysakoff and asked him something, and as he passed close
+by another young man, Grinevetsky, the latter threw his bomb at their
+feet, between himself and Alexander II., so that both of them should be
+killed by the terrible engine. They lived but a few hours.
+
+There Alexander II. lay upon the snow, profusely bleeding, abandoned by
+every one of his followers! All had disappeared. It was cadets,
+returning from the parade, who lifted the bleeding Tsar from the snow,
+and put him in a sledge, covering his shivering body with a cadet
+mantle, and his bare head with a cadet cap. And it was one of the
+Terrorists, Emelianoff, with a bomb wrapped in a paper under his arm,
+who, at the risk of being arrested on the spot and hanged, rushed with
+the cadets to help the wounded man! Human nature is full of these
+contrasts.”
+
+It was at the canal bridge near the Nevski Prospect that the bomb which
+shattered the body of the Tsar below the waist was thrown, and he died
+within an hour at his rooms in the Winter Palace. It is said that these
+rooms and their contents have never been disturbed in the least since
+the murdered Tsar left them for his drive. The hands of the clock on the
+mantel still point to 33 minutes past 3, the moment the Tsar expired.
+
+
+ MONUMENT AT MOSCOW.
+
+August 28, 1898, a monument to Tsar Alexander II. was unveiled at
+Moscow. His grandson, the present Tsar, Nicholas II. issued a ukase
+referring to the event and eulogizing the deeds of the deceased, notably
+the liberation of the peasants from bondage, which earned him the title
+of “The Deliverer,” in the mouth of a grateful people. The closing words
+were as follows:—
+
+
+ MEDALS MADE HEREDITARY.
+
+ “Wishing to seal more firmly the memory of this historical deed, we
+ have resolved to make hereditary the wearing and possession of the
+ medals he conferred upon his co-operators, as a sign of his gracious
+ acknowledgment of their labors.”
+
+The Tsar also sent to M. Constantin Pobiedonostseff, Procurator General
+of the Holy Synod, the decoration of the Order of St. Andrew, together
+with an imperial rescript reminding him that he, of all the close
+co-operators with the deceased monarch, alone remained in possession of
+the chiefship of the administrative department then intrusted to him.
+
+The monument was unveiled by Emperor Nicholas II. at 3 o’clock in the
+afternoon, in the presence of the Czarina, the Queen of the Hellenes,
+the Cabinet, the German and Austrian Ambassadors, deputations from all
+the land and naval forces of Russia and the Austrian Uhlans Regiment.
+
+The entire audience knelt while the clergy recited a prayer in memory of
+the deceased.
+
+At the moment of the unveiling the troops presented arms, and a salute
+of 320 guns was fired. Then the troops, with the Emperor at the head,
+marched past the monument amid the enthusiastic cheers of the people.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ ODESSA, 1899.
+]
+
+
+
+
+ CHAPTER TENTH.
+ EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870. DEMETRIUS GOUBAREFF. RUSSIA AND THE UNITED
+ STATES.
+
+ “Peace—but the ships of steel increase,
+ And statesmen watch, perplexed:
+ What is the thing we folk term ‘peace’?
+ Where will the war be next?”
+ —_Edwin L. Sabin._
+
+
+ IN LONDON, PARIS AND NICE.
+ INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
+
+The ideas I give of Europe contained in the following sketch written in
+London in April, 1870, came to me from a residence of two years there,
+during which time I had been constantly watching events, and had been
+thrown with many of the leading statesmen and financiers of the United
+States.
+
+What I pretended to know of the Eastern question, I learned from the
+journey I made the previous autumn through Russia, Turkey and Egypt,
+with General Banks. It then struck me that it would be well to open the
+eyes of the American people to what was passing there as impartially as
+possible, as thus far the English accounts had been one-sided. I may
+appear to favor Russia too strongly, but the boat in which we made the
+journey from Odessa to Egypt, and then through the Suez Canal, was
+filled with Russian representatives, persons representing almost all the
+Russian interests, and they spoke to us, being Americans, most freely on
+these subjects, and in such a way that we were much impressed with the
+high ambitions of that empire. It would have been difficult to have made
+the journey under more favorable auspices.
+
+The picture I drew of the future of the United States was very strong,
+but the more one lives away from America, the more he appreciates her
+greatness, and the position she must surely hold among the nations of
+the world, and I thought it good to put the plain facts and statistics
+before Europeans as well as Americans.
+
+This paper, which I offered to the press, did not appear originally in
+the form of a contribution, as the war suddenly broke out between France
+and Prussia before this was accomplished, but I had copies of it printed
+in a pamphlet for private circulation, and in that way it was quite
+generally read and discussed.
+
+I was of the opinion that neither Americans nor Europeans were
+sufficiently alive to the position which the United States was destined
+soon to hold among the nations of the world, and that they ought to be
+diligently preparing themselves for it.
+
+Having faith that the Great Republic will not only remain undivided, but
+increase in territory, population and strength, it logically follows
+that she must later be the controlling power. In her, humanity,
+commingled together and then reorganized, will practically carry out the
+idea of self-government, and such a government, if successful, will be
+irresistible.
+
+
+ “EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870.”
+
+ “Wars and rumors of wars must be, it would seem, for many years to
+ come the staple of talk in Europe. Nor is this remarkable, so many
+ different nationalities and languages, so much intelligence and
+ energy, and so many shades of ambition being concentrated in a small
+ space of territory. Thus far in the history of the Old World those in
+ power have generally sought by arms or state craft to strengthen the
+ country in whose destiny they were interested. Constant wars have been
+ the result.
+
+ The principles of international interest, of working in harmony to
+ develop the resources of the globe, of which perhaps the best exponent
+ is trade and the necessary concomitant peace, have been unfortunately
+ considered beneath the dignity of those who by birth, by fortune, or
+ by talent, have been able to hold leading positions. Happily this is
+ being changed. The great discoveries of the last fifty years have
+ given the world such an impulse as it never received before. The
+ comparative ease of making money and of possessing it in safety, has
+ caused persons to look after their own interest more than that of
+ those who chanced to be their rulers. But the process of change is
+ slow, and emperors and kings are still able to make wars even in
+ opposition to the will of their subjects. Wars are still not only a
+ possibility, but a probability, and every one is on the lookout for
+ them. When there is lack of other business, the cabinets of Europe
+ will turn their attention to the always vexed question of the balance
+ of power.
+
+ When newspaper editors are in want of interesting matter to fill their
+ sheets, they can ever bring out a glowing statement of the Eastern
+ question, or dilate upon the relations existing between France and
+ Prussia.
+
+ The map of Europe never ceases to be an entertaining study, and so a
+ slight review of the present state of affairs there, as seen and
+ judged by the disinterested traveller, may perhaps offer some points
+ of interest to those who are unable to make the journey themselves.
+
+ No one nation in Europe, today, seems to have a preponderating
+ influence over the others.
+
+
+ ENGLAND AND FRANCE.
+
+ England and France for a long time the most powerful have not, during
+ the last ten years, been making any international progress, and if
+ they have not by this been actually losing their influence, they have
+ remained in a state of inaction, while others have made great advances
+ to equal or eclipse them. Nor is there to be seen in them any prospect
+ of changing their policy.
+
+ England is so much occupied with domestic questions, especially those
+ relating to Ireland, that she can give little time or thought to
+ anything else, unless of very great import.
+
+ In France the holding the various discordant elements in check, and
+ forming out of them a strong and popular government, is absorbing all
+ the talent of her statesmen. The aggressive enterprises that the
+ existing government, or rather that its head, has lately undertaken,
+ have been so fruitless and so doubtfully indorsed by the people, that
+ it is not probable anything of the kind will again be tried unless
+ upon an almost certainty of success.
+
+
+ PRUSSIA.
+
+ Prussia may with a certain show of reason consider herself the leader,
+ but her, so to speak, inland position, and the consequent difficulty
+ of her having great naval or commercial power, prevent her from taking
+ that place to which her arms and politics might entitle her. Besides
+ this her relations with both Northern and Southern Germany are in a
+ preparatory state, and the uncertainty of her future movements, and of
+ how they will be accepted, is a present point of weakness. She is
+ recognized to be the strongest German nation, but the smaller
+ independencies, certain though they may be of becoming eventually
+ absorbed, are tenacious of preserving their individuality as long as
+ possible. They hesitate about siding with or against Prussia, and as
+ she cannot well now press the question, matters are more or less at a
+ standstill.
+
+
+ AUSTRIA.
+
+ Austria cannot, since the Peace of Prague, be regarded as a
+ first-class power of Europe; she must regain her lost strength first,
+ and for some time to come she will best attempt this by solidifying
+ her relations with Hungary, and by infusing more advanced principles
+ of government into the authorities at Vienna.
+
+
+ SPAIN.
+
+ In Spain, affairs are still holding their uneasy course, and the world
+ looks on astonished at the way the country is taking care of itself;
+ so many forms of government proposed by so many different candidates
+ that, in reality, there is next to none whatever, but, to balance
+ this, a fair amount of contentment among the people. Not knowing what
+ they wish, the Spaniards drift on very well with what they have.
+
+
+ ITALY.
+
+ In Italy, economy is so necessary to preserve the country, that no
+ thought can be given to any foreign ventures, while at Rome all other
+ questions are dropped, so long as the Ecumenical Council is sitting
+ there in state.
+
+
+ DENMARK, NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
+
+ Denmark, Norway and Sweden, are engaged in discussing topics of much
+ local interest, and which may perhaps, result in the unity of the
+ three nations, but they will have little influence upon the general
+ march of events in Europe.
+
+
+ RUSSIA.
+
+ Russia remains, as the last great nation to be discussed, and here, on
+ the stepping stone between Eastern and Western ideas and
+ civilizations, can be found the germs of those movements which if not
+ immediately forthcoming, will, when they burst forth, startle the
+ world with their grandeur, and essentially change the features of the
+ map of Europe.
+
+ The Russian Empire as it exists today,—the Russia of Alexander II. and
+ Gortschakoff,—the country which has emancipated twenty million serfs
+ and offered an equal trial by jury to all its citizens, this nation,
+ which, day by day is increasing its territory and influence at home,
+ and which during a civil war in the other hemisphere extended a kindly
+ though many will say a not disinterested hand to the party which
+ represented progressive principles, the Russian Empire, the friend of
+ the American Republic, has many qualities which might justly entitle
+ it to leadership, but the strange mixture of European and Asiatic
+ elements in that country, so great in extent and so ambitious of
+ progress, as interpreted by it, is the cause of a confusion of ideas,
+ and prevents that unanimity of action which is necessary to insure the
+ respect and obedience of others.
+
+ Moreover, although the spirit of the people is extremely democratic,
+ the policy of the government is autocratic, and in the latter part of
+ this century it is impossible for any but a government founded on
+ popular principles and supported by the people themselves, to command
+ the esteem and the envy of the masses in other portions of the
+ civilized world, and thus to give them laws. The seeds of dominion are
+ there, but it will take time for them to ripen and bear their fruit.
+
+
+ THE EQUIPOISE OF POWER.
+
+ From this slight review of the position of the European nations in
+ 1870, one cannot help being impressed with the equipoise of power, and
+ concluding that this itself is a strong guarantee of peace, but, in
+ reality the peace is not well founded, and cannot be abiding. It is an
+ armed peace, and as such, may cause the people deep anxiety. Several
+ millions of men in Europe, today, are wearing the dress and drawing
+ the pay of soldiers, and all for nothing. Disarming is continually
+ talked of, but is not being begun, nor will it be, as long as the
+ nations are mutually afraid of each other. The pursuits of industry
+ and commerce, which would develop with increasing force if peace were
+ secure for ten or twenty years, are now, to a great extent, held in
+ check. Capitalists are afraid of embarking in great enterprises, as
+ they know not what may take place before they will be completed.
+ Thousands of laborers, able-bodied and intelligent, through fear of
+ being drawn into military service are leaving the lands of their birth
+ and emigrating to distant shores, there to seek their fortunes: a
+ great gain to the countries which receive them, but a more than
+ proportionate loss to those they leave, as their places cannot be
+ filled.
+
+ One should not seriously wish for war, except in the most extreme
+ cases, and where the prospect of the good to follow seems more than to
+ compensate for the immediate evil.
+
+
+ LOOKING INTO THE FUTURE.
+
+ Without admitting this to be the case now, but believing that the
+ present peace cannot, from the press of circumstances last many years,
+ let us look a little into the future, and try to divine where it will
+ be first broken, and what will be the results. It is to the East of
+ Europe we must turn our thoughts, and here it seems as if great events
+ would soon be in motion. The problem to be solved is the dismemberment
+ of the Ottoman Empire, and the consequent independence of one nation,
+ and the increase in power of several others.
+
+ The actors in the drama will be Turkey, Russia, Egypt, Greece, and
+ perhaps the Slavonic portions of Austria, the theatre will be parts of
+ Europe, Asia, and Africa, and the most interested spectators will be
+ France, England, and the United States.
+
+
+ THE POSSESSION OF CONSTANTINOPLE.
+
+ It must be well borne in mind that the integrity of Turkey has been
+ guaranteed for many years, if not actually preserved, by the cabinets
+ of France and England. So many pamphlets and articles have been
+ written by those representing the interests of those governments on
+ one side, and so little has been said on the opposite side, that it
+ has almost become an acknowledged fact that the carrying out of this
+ idea is necessary for the peace of Europe and of the world. Their
+ arguments are strong, but will not influence him who visits
+ Constantinople with an unprejudiced mind. The key to the riddle is the
+ possession of that city. England and France know that they themselves
+ cannot obtain it, and this being the case, they are determined to do
+ all in their power to prevent any other nation from doing so. It is
+ almost impossible for one who has not been there himself, to form a
+ fair opinion of what should be the future of that beautiful city of
+ the East, but once there, the decision is soon reached that it should
+ no longer belong to the Turks, but to some people, whoever they may
+ be, who will do justice to the advantages Nature has given it.
+
+ Constantinople is so placed that it is one of the keys of the waters
+ of the world, and as such it ought to be a great commercial centre.
+ The city, as it now is, renders this impossible, and the Turks,
+ judging from their antecedents and their present manner of existence,
+ are incapable of change.
+
+ A distinguished statesman of the United States (Gen. N. P. Banks) one
+ day asked the Turkish minister at Washington, if in his country there
+ were many persons celebrated for their success in finance or business.
+
+ The Minister slowly opened his dark mysterious eyes, and with a
+ half-amused, half-pitying gaze, replied:—
+
+ ‘Sir, my countrymen know nothing of affairs, the Turks are warriors.’
+
+ In the quiet answer of that Turk, a man who held not only a high
+ position in his own country, but had also seen the active life in
+ America, there is a meaning which one cannot well appreciate who has
+ not been among the people of whom he spoke. They seem to belong to a
+ different age and world from ours. They know almost nothing of the
+ wonderful things every day done in this nineteenth century, and, if
+ they are told, they take but little interest, and are incapable of
+ comprehending them.
+
+ As already stated the city of Constantinople, until radically changed,
+ does not admit of greatness. Some of the civilizing appliances of this
+ century judiciously put in movement, would soon change the mysterious
+ city of the Orient, replete with the souvenirs of Constantine and
+ Mohammed, into a great commercial mart. The past would be sacrificed
+ for the future, but the sacrifice would be justifiable. Useless
+ Romance would drop her fascinating garment, and stand arrayed as the
+ goddess of Practical Progress.
+
+ The question then is, who will begin the work?
+
+ The Turks will certainly not; indeed, their opposition to it will be
+ so strong that it cannot well be undertaken until they see that their
+ empire is broken, and that their natural refuge is over the water into
+ Asia, where they belong.
+
+ The mover of all this will be a nation which has the most to gain from
+ the results,—Russia, and fortunately a nation fired with the ambitions
+ of progress, and with sufficient power to be able to carry them out.
+ The intelligent men of Russia know that it is needful to the dignity
+ of the nation, as a sentiment, to its safety militarily, and to its
+ commercial prosperity, to have all the water rights and privileges in
+ the Black Sea, and in the straits which connect it with those waters
+ which are acknowledged to be the common property of mankind. Until
+ this is brought about their machinery is clogged, and for this the
+ possession of Constantinople is so important as almost to be a
+ necessity.
+
+ The Russians are already at the work, and the faster it advances the
+ better. Slowly and steadily since the peace was signed at the end of
+ the Crimean War, the government at St. Petersburg, deeply humbled
+ then, is preparing for the struggle which will restore her lost
+ rights, and give her many additional ones. Day by day, she is
+ spreading out her net-work of railroads, steamboats, telegraphs, and
+ post-roads; imperceptibly she is increasing her territory, and this on
+ principles so judiciously arranged for the conquered, that each fresh
+ Asiatic horde absorbed, soon becomes as proud of the grandeur of
+ Russia as if it had always been a part of the empire. Vessels for the
+ navy and commerce are being built on her northern and southern seas,
+ and her large inland rivers; her grain-trade is rapidly increasing,
+ and her rich mines and other resources are being developed. Besides
+ all this, she has a strong point of safety in the intense feeling of
+ nationality, daily swelling, which pervades all the Muscovites. In
+ sentiment the army is a unit, and the entire population of the vast
+ empire shout wildly on every occasion for the health and prosperity of
+ the Tsar.
+
+ There may be something barbaric in all this, but it is the stuff out
+ of which national greatness can be made, and it may cause anxiety to
+ those countries where such a feeling does not exist.
+
+
+ THE COUNTRY OF THE PHARAOHS.
+
+ The nation most interested after Russia, in the division of Turkey,
+ perhaps as much or even more interested, because her own independence
+ is the prize she can win, is Egypt, that historic land, which, once
+ the mistress of the world, but today a vassal, has in the future as
+ fine a destiny as could be desired. The canal lately opened through
+ the Isthmus of Suez, has done more for Egypt than fifty ordinary years
+ might have accomplished.
+
+ It has turned the thoughts of civilized Europe for more than ten years
+ upon that country; it has kept their attention interested, and the
+ result has been more than satisfactory.
+
+ Europe has not, in modern days, expected to find much good in the
+ country of the Pharaohs, but it has found that although matters there
+ are not what the sanguine might wish, they are still unquestionably in
+ every point where comparison is possible, very far in advance of
+ Turkey.
+
+ The infusion of Western ideas into the inhabitants of a land who have
+ been brought up for centuries to despise them, is no easy task, but
+ this the Vice Roi of Egypt has been attempting, and with fair success.
+ He appreciates the age in which he lives as any one who has visited
+ Cairo can plainly see, and he feels his superiority over the Sultan so
+ strongly, that he is merely waiting for the time to be ripe, to openly
+ disobey the orders from Constantinople, and assert his independence.
+ Many thought, and with reason, that at the opening of the Suez Canal
+ the time for this action had come, but nothing was then done, perhaps
+ because the armed force of the Khedive was insufficient for the
+ attempt, or that having accomplished a great commercial success, he
+ hesitated risking a military failure, or, more probably still, because
+ the diplomatic complications were such that he could not make an
+ advantageous alliance.
+
+ For what is to be done Egypt should go hand-in-hand with Russia, but
+ at the present time this is a difficult combination to form.
+
+ In constructing the Suez Canal, France has done everything for Egypt,
+ and the presence of the Empress Eugénie at the opening ceremonies was
+ the natural culmination of the work.
+
+ An alliance between France and Egypt, strong enough to give France a
+ foothold in the East, and thereby to checkmate the power of England,
+ but not binding her to make a rupture with the rulers at
+ Constantinople on the question of Egyptian independence, would be a
+ fine thing for Napoleon, but would do Ismail little good. A rational
+ alliance between Russia and Egypt, each country working for itself and
+ the other, would be desirable enough, but for this it would be
+ necessary to give France the cold shoulder, and in return receive her
+ resentment.
+
+ Russia, France, and Egypt, cannot now combine together. The results of
+ the Crimean war are not forgotten at St. Petersburg, and, besides
+ this, the existing relations between Russia and Prussia on other
+ European questions are such that the former cannot yet offer France a
+ friendly hand.
+
+ The ambition of Napoleon is boundless, but he knows that the prestige
+ he would acquire in working out the independence of Egypt, would be
+ overbalanced by what would fall to the share of the Emperor of Russia.
+
+ England, too, could not keep out of the dispute, and although lately
+ she has been very silent on the Eastern question, at the moment of
+ action, regardless of what she has done in the past, and of her
+ half-promises for the future, she would bring great force to bear, and
+ in such a way as to derive advantage for herself alone.
+
+ The Austro-Hungarian Empire and Greece have both something to gain
+ from the dismemberment of the Ottoman Empire, but, in their present
+ condition, they must move in the wake of others, they cannot lead the
+ operations. A masterly brain and arm might unite the different
+ Slavonic elements on the banks of the Danube, part of which now belong
+ to Turkey, and amalgamate them into the Austrian Empire, but it is
+ doubtful if this would be a desirable move, for, while it would give
+ strength in territory and population to Austria, it would tend to
+ weaken the German element of the country, and this would be fatal if
+ she wishes to be regarded as the great South-German nation.
+
+ The title of Kaiser of Germans, always has and could still give
+ prestige, but the same title held by one whose empire was in reality
+ composed of Slavs, would not, but on the contrary aid the government
+ of Prussia in its plans of German unity, and unity on a more
+ democratic basis. Austria’s best course, therefore, would be to take
+ no active part, but to await the results and turn them as best she
+ could to her advantage.
+
+ The Greeks and Turks have never loved each other, and while Greece is
+ too weak for definite action at first, she could later lend a helping
+ hand in the movements which would result in restoring to her the
+ provinces of Thessaly and Epirus, which though under the dominion of
+ Turkey are Greek in everything but the name. Greece thus regenerated,
+ might again become quite an important country, and with the commerce
+ which the Suez Canal opens to her with the Indies, take her place as a
+ growing maritime nation.
+
+ There are no other important moves now apparent in the horizon of
+ European politics. As mentioned above, the great powers are too much
+ interested in domestic affairs to be able to give much thought to what
+ their neighbors are doing.
+
+ It has been expected by many that the continued growling heard both
+ from France and Prussia, would sooner or later end in open rupture and
+ war, (The Franco-Prussian war broke out three months later, July 19,
+ 1870.) but one who watches the course of events closely can see that
+ while they both say they are ready, neither of them desires to break
+ the peace. Neither will be the first to sound the alarm, for they both
+ know they have almost nothing to gain from the result, for, should the
+ war come, it would accomplish little but the destruction of the lives
+ of many thousand soldiers. Whichever side was victorious, the boundary
+ line between the two nations would be but slightly changed. The
+ existing line is the natural one, for it is the line of language and
+ race, and, although war could move it on one side or the other, for a
+ time, it would soon fall back again to the plane from which it
+ started. The strength of the two nations is so nearly equal that
+ neither can absorb portions of the other. The Rhine is a German river,
+ and neither diplomacy nor war can make it French.
+
+
+ THE NON-INTERVENTION OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+ And now, in conclusion, what position should the Government, or rather
+ the people of the United States, take in relation to the march of
+ events in Europe? Are we to hold forever to our established principle
+ of non-intervention, when we conscientiously believe that judicious
+ intervention would often advance the cause of progress?
+
+ Better at least keep the right of speaking and acting as we please,
+ but use it sparingly, and never hesitate to give sympathy and moral
+ aid,—sometimes more helpful than actual assistance,—to the parties in
+ any struggle which we believe to have justice on their side.
+
+ But when we look into the future, and a no very distant future at
+ that, and consider that at the end of this century we shall be a
+ nation of one hundred millions, thinking persons can easily see that
+ the preponderance of strength in our favor will be so overwhelming,
+ that non-intervention will be a practical impossibility. The weak of
+ the earth will come to us for protection, and we shall not wish to
+ throw them off.
+
+ What a country it will be in 1900!
+
+ One hundred million people, all with a strong sense of liberty, but
+ not of license; all educated, or desirous and able to become so; all
+ ambitious, because the highest prizes are within their reach; nearly
+ all speaking one language: with private fortunes greater than the
+ world has ever seen, and with the natural resources of the country
+ then in their flower.
+
+ One cannot dwell upon this prospect without swelling with pride, and
+ at the same time almost trembling at its very grandeur.
+
+ The mighty Republic of the United States, which sprang into existence
+ less than a century ago, will be the acknowledged law-giver and
+ arbiter of the entire world.
+
+ Perhaps at no time has the temptation for us to mix in the affairs of
+ Europe been so strong as today, because, selfishly speaking, we have
+ everything to gain and nothing to lose. (It must be remembered that
+ _every word_ of this article was written in 1870.) A mere spark which
+ could any moment be struck at Washington would in three months’ time
+ set Europe in flames.
+
+ An excuse like the Cuban difficulty (The independence of Cuba,
+ achieved at the close of the century by the assistance of the United
+ States in its war with Spain), the long pending question of the
+ Alabama Claims, (Claims of the United States upon Great Britain for
+ damages by the _Alabama_ and other Confederate cruisers, settled in
+ 1872, at Geneva, by a court of arbitration.) the relations between the
+ Sultan and the Khedive, or the foolishness now between France and the
+ United States about the postal treaty or the Atlantic cable. Any of
+ these would be sufficient to do the work, and what would be the
+ result? (The postal union was formed by a congress of delegates
+ representing the principal governments of Europe and the United
+ States, assembled at Berne, Switzerland, in September, 1874. A treaty
+ was concluded establishing a uniform rate of postage for letters of 5
+ cents per half ounce.)
+
+ Thousands and thousands of able-bodied men, with no taste for war, and
+ especially war for the gratification of crowned heads, would seize
+ every opportunity of leaving their native lands and hastening to
+ America. It would be impossible to prevent them.
+
+ Millions and millions of treasure seeking safe investment, would find
+ its way to the United States, and all that is wanted to develop the
+ country, is hands to work the natural resources and money to pay for
+ it.
+
+ America would become what England has been for many years, the strong
+ box of the world. England can be so no more.
+
+ Telegraph communication and steam have put her so near the continent
+ of Europe, that she can no longer be regarded as a sure land of refuge
+ for men or money. Nay, it is doubtful if she could actually keep out
+ of the conflict. The safe must be separated from the combatants by a
+ broader piece of water than the Straits of Dover. Three thousand miles
+ are not too much for perfect security. The action of the United States
+ could bring on any war it wished, but the country itself would have
+ nothing to fear. Its strength is so great that it could meet fairly in
+ the field any possible combination of the nations of Europe. The
+ feeling of animosity between the northern and southern states, which
+ has existed during the civil war, but which is happily now almost
+ over, would end in fraternal enthusiasm if the country should engage
+ in a popular war against any other nation. But the carnage once begun
+ in Europe could not be carried over the Atlantic, as there would be
+ enough to keep it there. The United States would be in any case the
+ attacked and not the attacking party, and modern warfare has arrived
+ at the point that, other things being equal, the party which attacks a
+ distant land is almost sure to be worsted.
+
+ What would fall to the lot of the United States would be the business
+ of the world. The carrying trade of the nations would be done by her,
+ and the problem of the revival of her shipping be by the action of
+ others solved. All the merchant vessels which plough the Atlantic and
+ Pacific oceans, would claim the protection of the Stars and Stripes,
+ and this means limitless sums of money poured into her treasury,
+ wealth to the country, and wealth to private individuals. The prestige
+ of her flag would be such as none ever had before.
+
+
+ THE PATH OF PEACE.
+
+ Such is the prospect which opens before the vision of the people of
+ the United States today. Deeply conscious of our great power, let us
+ be equally conscious of our responsibility in best employing that
+ power for the benefit of mankind. Let us remember that our path is the
+ path of peace, and not that of war, let us endeavor not to be turned
+ from it by the constant temptations of false glory, for, if we are, we
+ shall ourselves suffer for it later, and cause others to suffer.
+
+ It is for its to show to Europe, not what advantages can be derived
+ from war and diplomacy, which are the weapons of the past, but what
+ greater advantages can be derived from the weapons of the present and
+ the future,—the weapons of our own peculiar fabrication,—such as the
+ nobility of labor and universal education and freedom. Only by acting
+ thus shall we be able to prove to the nations who are even now
+ ‘hanging breathless on our fate,’ that we truly carry with us a
+ grander civilization than has ever yet been seen.”
+
+
+ FROM A LETTER TO MY SISTER AT MANCHESTER.
+
+“Club House, Newport, August 7, 1870: I was in Boston yesterday, and had
+just about ten minutes at 39 Beacon street, where I found your nice
+letter. I am very comfortably established here, in a little apartment
+with my friend Bob. Winthrop of New York, and here I mean to have my
+headquarters, running off occasionally to New York or Boston and I hope
+before long to turn up at ‘Sharksmouth.’ I have been really very much
+occupied the last month, what with my own affairs, _la haute finance_ at
+Washington and New York, with the thermometer at 90°, and with
+occasional visits to my friends, and have been very happy with all the
+work. I have my old horse ‘Trumps’ from South Carolina, and he is in as
+fine a condition as when I left him, more than two years ago. He reposes
+in solitary dignity in the stable.
+
+Poor Europe in 1870, is terribly changed!
+
+I am going to print my little article in a pamphlet by itself, with an
+introduction suited to the times, and will send you a copy when it
+appears. I came to the conclusion that to alter it to suit the ever
+changing news from Europe would be impossible, and would really spoil
+it, and so I will let it remain as it is as one of my first literary
+attempts.
+
+I have been to Long Branch, and it is the most extraordinary American
+political rendezvous I ever saw.
+
+The war in Europe sickens me, so many thousand poor fellows to be
+murdered and maimed for wicked personal ambition. The whole business of
+the world is thrown into our hands,—I mean the United States of
+America,—if we only take it.”
+
+
+ GOUBAREFF THE RUSSIAN.
+
+Demetrius Goubareff was a very intelligent Russian, to whom I was
+first introduced in 1871 or 1872. As a young man he had liberated
+his serfs before the emancipation action of Alexander II. and had
+been a progressive man in every way. He wrote a book entitled
+“Philosophie—Religion.” He had, I believe, taken part in the
+Crimean war, and then again in 1879, entered the service of his
+country at the time of the later attempt to obtain possession of
+Constantinople, which I have been informed was balked only by the
+interposition of Bismarck. The matter I thought ought to have been
+settled then and there.
+
+Mr. Goubareff lived much at Nice and Paris, and often visited London. He
+kept up an extensive correspondence with many interesting persons.
+
+He passed Sunday with me at Vevey, Switzerland, in March, 1876, and we
+had an excellent chance to talk there quietly and at our leisure. I
+found that he was much interested in the “Association for the
+Codification and Reform of the Law of Nations,” of which, on my
+proposing him, he became a member. I was very glad of this because he
+proposed to make a good deal of occupation for himself out of it,
+getting acquainted, and opening correspondence with many of the
+distinguished persons who were on the list of its members, and would
+prove a very valuable addition to the organization.
+
+The following month in Paris Mr. Goubareff introduced me to the Golovine
+family, and we dined with them and strolled together in the beautiful
+gardens of St. Germain.
+
+
+ RUSSIA AND THE UNITED STATES.
+ WRITTEN IN BOSTON IN 1873.
+
+ “A good deal has been said and written the last ten years, about the
+ strong friendship existing between Russia and the United States, the
+ coquetting, as it has been called, of these two nations with each
+ other.
+
+ That such an _entente cordiale_ has existed is beyond all dispute, but
+ the causes of it open a wide field for discussion.
+
+ The nations of Europe who have watched its progress with some evident
+ alarm for themselves, have come forward with many unasked-for
+ explanations, to clearly prove that such a thing is out of all reason,
+ that it should not be, that it is all nonsense, thereby admitting all
+ the more plainly the ugly fact. Particularly kind and disinterested
+ have they been in their advice to the youthful United States, warning
+ her to be careful, lest she be outwitted by the shrewd diplomacy of
+ the Muscovite Cabinet, telling her that it was all a smart trick on
+ the part of the Russian government, from which they only wanted to
+ carry out their own ambitious ends, and this done, they would be ready
+ at any moment to give the innocent and confiding Americans the slip.
+
+ It is pleasant, as a citizen of the United States to feel what good
+ friends we have on the other side of the Atlantic,—real friends,
+ too,—who are ready to come forward, now that we are out of the woods,
+ to save us from the terrible fate of being killed by too much
+ kindness.
+
+ Like the almost historic personage who was talked to death, perhaps
+ there is danger in store for the American Republic of being _advised_
+ to death by her older brothers and sisters.
+
+ It does not take an over-intelligent person to see that between a
+ military autocracy, under the sway of an almost absolute ruler, and a
+ government of the people, intrusting the management of its affairs
+ temporarily to its chosen representatives, there cannot be,
+ theoretically, certainly, much genuine and heartfelt sympathy. This is
+ superficially the view which any one would take. But deeper reflection
+ on the traits, or, better still, living among the people of whom such
+ a comparison is made, will show that this curious sympathy is not by
+ any means a matter of government alone,—important as that is to aid
+ it,—but lies hidden in the life of the people themselves, only to be
+ brought out by a curious combination of circumstances.
+
+
+ THE DOUBLE EVENT OF EMANCIPATION.
+
+ At times the spark will be struck, and blaze forth into a great
+ conflagration. Such a time was the late civil war in North America,
+ which was the cause of the emancipation of the slaves in the Southern
+ states, when, to correspond with it, at about the same epoch, but from
+ entirely different causes, came the liberation of the serfs all
+ through Russia.
+
+ Alexander II. and Abraham Lincoln then found a bond of fellowship
+ existing between them, which nothing could break, and the masses in
+ Russia and in the United States, were only too ready to take up the
+ double event and magnify it in their feeling to an unlimited extent.
+ Then many other points of similarity were discovered; the great extent
+ of territory of both nations, giving each a future in the development
+ of the resources placed there by nature, whether on the surface of the
+ earth or under it, which restricted limits had denied to the other
+ nations of the continent. This same vastness of land, educating many
+ to be merchants, and farmers, and miners, and railroad owners on a
+ grand scale, caused a corresponding freedom of thought and
+ independence of action,—in other words democratized the people who had
+ come under its influence,—in a way which cannot well be appreciated by
+ those whose life is passed in crowded cities alone, where the prestige
+ of courts and the presence of cliques make individuality much less
+ marked.
+
+ The two nations, the republic and the empire, owned a wide frontage on
+ the Pacific ocean, which they came in imagination to regard as a huge
+ lake, and this their common property. Other events, too, at this time
+ were used with great effect; such as the arrival of the Russian
+ squadron in America (The Russian fleet in New York, Boston, and San
+ Francisco in 1863.), the visit of Assistant Secretary of the Navy Fox
+ in 1866, and that of Admiral Farragut in 1867, (Admiral Farragut was
+ in Russia the greater part of August in that year, and it was said the
+ friendship and courtesy of both government and people were especially
+ marked.) the purchase of Alaska (In 1867, organized July 27, 1868.)
+ and the return call of the Grand Duke Alexis to the United States.
+ (The third son of the Emperor Alexander II. of Russia visited this
+ country in December 1871, and at a banquet Oliver Wendell Holmes
+ welcomed him with the following words:—
+
+ ‘Bleak are our shores with the blasts of December,
+ Fettered and chill is the rivulet’s flow,
+ But throbbing and warm are the hearts that remember
+ Who was our friend when the world was our foe.’
+
+ There was a gift to the poor of New York when the Russian squadron
+ took leave of New York in 1863, a voluntary subscription of $4,760
+ from the officers, and during the famine in Russia in 1891, our
+ government sent over five large steamers loaded with grain collected
+ from almost every state in the Union.)
+
+ But, supposing there were no characteristics in common, it will not
+ soon be forgotten in America that, during the long years of the
+ terrible war, while many of the nations of Europe were clinging to the
+ policy of keeping an uncompromising but none the less watchful armed
+ neutrality, rulers and aristocracies in their hearts against the cause
+ of the North, while the lower classes everywhere went with it, Russia,
+ of all the great nations, alone came forward, and gave openly its
+ sympathy to the side which represented a more advanced civilization,
+ and which as such, in spite of its many disheartening defeats, was
+ bound to triumph in the end. A person who is hard pressed in life,
+ when a friend comes up to give him encouragement, does not stop to
+ reflect why it is given, and try to put a selfish construction on the
+ offer, he accepts it on the spot, and is not apt to forget the donor
+ in a hurry. So Americans are not to be easily persuaded that Russia’s
+ assistance to them at that critical period in their country’s history,
+ was a mere diplomatic sham and meaningless parade. They are willing to
+ be ignorant still, if this is so, and need more powerful arguments to
+ disprove them than have yet been raised by their officious
+ counsellors.”
+
+
+ THE RUSSO-AMERICAN FEVER.
+
+In the year of my first journey to Russia, 1866, the Russo-American
+fever was at its height, and it was a very pleasant thing for those who
+caught it when travelling in the other country. They were fêted and
+hugged, and wined, and tossed, according to the customs of the people,
+and their nationality alone was a sufficient passport to pass them along
+the lines of sight-seeing and pleasure, passing unchallenged,—nay,
+rather invited in. The entire nation was in the attitude of “present
+arms” to him from the other country who desired to pass through on a
+tour of inspection.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ “And the great ships sail outward and return,
+ Bending and bowing o’er the billowy swells,
+ And ever joyful, as they see it burn,
+ They wave their silent welcomes and farewells.”
+ —_Henry W. Longfellow, The Lighthouse._
+
+
+ FINIS.
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ PORT SAID. OPENING OF THE SUEZ CANAL.
+]
+
+
+
+
+ INDEX
+ TO
+ PERSONS, PLACES, AND SUBJECTS
+
+
+ Academy of Fine Arts, St. Petersburg, 151.
+
+ Academy of Music, Brooklyn, N. Y., 90.
+
+ Academy of Music, Newport, R. I., 32.
+
+ Admiralty, St. Petersburg, 151.
+
+ After Emancipation, 58, 200.
+
+ Agricultural Exhibition, 174.
+
+ Alabama Claims, 219.
+
+ Alaska, 172, 186, 225.
+
+ Albania, 108.
+
+ Alexander I., 186, 192.
+
+ Alexander II., 77, 81, 92, 94–96, 106, 134, 136–138, 161, 162, 164,
+ 173–175, 184, 194–197, 200, 211, 216, 222, 224, 225.
+
+ Alexander II., Death of, 203–205.
+
+ Alexander II., Monument, 205.
+
+ Alexandria, 179.
+
+ Alice, yacht, 17–19, 23, 25, 27, 117.
+
+ Allston, Washington, 125–132.
+
+ Andrews, Christopher Columbus, 169, 170.
+
+ Appleton, D. & Co., 146, 153.
+
+ Appleton, Thomas Gold, 17–20, 23, 25, 42, 117, 123, 126, 129–132, 148.
+
+ Appomattox Court House, Va., 62, 64.
+
+ Army of the Potomac, 21, 22, 156, 158.
+
+ Artillery Brigade, 157.
+
+ Artists’ Club, St. Petersburg, 99.
+
+ Ashuelot, man-of-war, 136.
+
+ Asniéres, 24.
+
+ Astor, W. W., 146.
+
+ Augusta, man-of-war, 136.
+
+ Avenue de l’Opera, Paris, 35.
+
+
+ Ball, Thomas, 66.
+
+ Baltic Sea, 24, 73, 186.
+
+ Baltimore, Md., 44, 55, 99.
+
+ Banks, Nathaniel P., 160, 168–174, 176, 179, 181, 183, 207, 213.
+
+ Barlow, S. L. M., 145.
+
+ Bartlett, Joseph J., 30.
+
+ Battle of Antietam, 52.
+
+ Beaumont, Sir George, 130, 131.
+
+ Behring Straits, 103.
+
+ Behring, Vitus, discoverer, 103.
+
+ Bellevue Avenue, Newport, R. I., 29.
+
+ Belmont, August, 33, 145–147.
+
+ Bennett, James Gordon, 27, 28.
+
+ Bennett, James Gordon, Jr., 27–29, 34, 36, 159.
+
+ Berdan, Hiram, 173, 176.
+
+ Berlin, 24, 26, 39, 68–74, 167.
+
+ Besborodko, Koucheleff, Count, 93, 141.
+
+ Bicknell, Albion H., 64.
+
+ Bismarck-Schonhausen, Otto Edward Leopold, Prince von, Chancellor of
+ the Empire, 222.
+
+ Black Sea, 214.
+
+ Bois de Boulogne, 20, 23, 38–40, 111, 162, 165.
+
+ Boit, Edward D., 203.
+
+ Boston, 9, 19, 66, 103, 116, 119, 127, 128, 221, 224.
+
+ Boston Athenæum, 128.
+
+ Boston Board of Trade, 177.
+
+ Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 129.
+
+ Boston Public Library, 141.
+
+ Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, 36.
+
+ Bowditch, Henry P., 158.
+
+ Bowles Brothers & Co., Bankers, 168.
+
+ Bowles, Charles, 34, 168, 177.
+
+ Bowles, Drevet & Cie, Paris, 17.
+
+ Bowles, Robert, 127.
+
+ Boyer, Alexandre, 183.
+
+ Brest, 9, 11, 14, 16, 24.
+
+ Brevoort House, New York, 90.
+
+ Brevoort Place, New York, 89.
+
+ Bric-a-Brac Club, Boston, 148.
+
+ Brighton Road, Brighton District, Boston, 87, 123, 135.
+
+ Brindisi, 179.
+
+ Brown, Edward Ingersol, 132.
+
+ Brown, John Murray, 181.
+
+ Brussels, 24, 26, 39, 68.
+
+ Bullock, Alexander H., 167.
+
+ Burgess, Frank, 9, 16, 23, 39, 84, 122, 144.
+
+ Burlingame, Anson, 165–169, 180.
+
+ Burlington Arcade, London, 85.
+
+
+ Café Napolitaine, Paris, 26, 27.
+
+ Cairo, Egypt, 179, 216.
+
+ Cambridge, Mass., 159.
+
+ Cameron, Simon, 50.
+
+ Camp Douglas, 21.
+
+ Carnatz Connection, 106.
+
+ Carolina Filly, 30.
+
+ Caspian Sea, 108.
+
+ Catherine II., 193.
+
+ Caucasus, 186.
+
+ Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia, 129.
+
+ Cercle des Capucines, 38.
+
+ Cercle Franco-Américain, 37, 38.
+
+ Champ de Mars, St. Petersburg, 173.
+
+ Chandler, Zachariah, 168.
+
+ Charing Cross Hotel, London, 20.
+
+ Chase, Salmon P., 55, 64.
+
+ Chicago, 10.
+
+ Chicago Exposition, 66, 129.
+
+ China, steamship, 18.
+
+ Chinese Embassy, 167–169.
+
+ Christmas Day, 81, 92, 98, 103, 113, 114, 122, 132, 133.
+
+ Church of Saint Sophia, 140.
+
+ Church of Sault Isaac, 86, 87.
+
+ Circassia, 83, 85, 92, 108, 142, 145, 147, 204.
+
+ Clark, Arthur H., 17, 18.
+
+ Clay, Cassius M., 82, 94–96, 98, 137.
+
+ Clyde Park, 30.
+
+ Coaching Club, 28.
+
+ Coffey, Titian J., 172, 173, 177.
+
+ Colfax, Schuyler, 65.
+
+ Cologne, 69.
+
+ Commune, France, 36, 37.
+
+ Commune, or Mir, Russia, 201–203.
+
+ Compiègne, 20.
+
+ Comte, Auguste, 181.
+
+ Constantinople, 39, 76, 102, 169, 179, 180, 213–216, 222.
+
+ Copenhagen, 168, 171.
+
+ Corbin, Austin, 29.
+
+ Costume Ball, 144–147.
+
+ Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, 21.
+
+ Country Club, Brookline, Mass., 30, 32, 33.
+
+ Cowdin, Elliot C., 166.
+
+ Cowes, 18, 19.
+
+ Cowes Roads, 18.
+
+ Cracow, 154, 155.
+
+ Crane, Edward A., 182.
+
+ Crimea, 23, 193, 194.
+
+ Crimean War, 193, 194, 197, 215, 216, 222.
+
+ Cronstadt, 97, 136.
+
+ Crowninshield, B. W., 156.
+
+ Cuba, 26, 172.
+
+ Curtin, Andrew G., 168, 172, 173, 177, 180.
+
+ Curtin, Jeremiah, 81, 103, 118, 134, 181.
+
+ Curtis, T. B., 25, 39.
+
+
+ Danube River, 181, 217.
+
+ Dauntless, yacht, 29.
+
+ Davis, Tom Kemper, 126.
+
+ De Gogorza, Anthoine, 183.
+
+ De Lesseps, Ferdinand, Count, 164, 165, 179, 182, 183.
+
+ Delmonico’s, New York, 144.
+
+ De Long, George W., 159.
+
+ Demidoff Mines, 87.
+
+ De Richelieu, Armand Emanuel du Plessis, Duke, 178.
+
+ De Trobriand, Philippe Regis, 20, 21, 24, 91.
+
+ Dieppe, 24.
+
+ District of Columbia, 45, 49.
+
+ Dix, John A., 165–167.
+
+ Dneiper River, 185.
+
+ D’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, Duke, Spanish Ambassador, 82, 93, 98.
+
+ Dresden, 25, 106, 155.
+
+ Drexel, A. J., 34, 35, 168.
+
+ Drexel, Harjes & Co., 34, 168.
+
+ Dumaresq, Armand, 37.
+
+ Dvina River, 185.
+
+
+ Easton’s Beach, Newport, R. I., 31.
+
+ Elsinore, 170, 184.
+
+ Emancipation, Compensated, 48–50, 60, 196, 197, 199.
+
+ Emancipation, Double Event of, 224.
+
+ Emancipation, Gradual, 48–50, 196, 197.
+
+ Emancipation Law of Russia, Manifesto, 198, 199, 200.
+
+ Emancipation, Proclamation in the United States, 52–54.
+
+ Emancipation, Result of War, 50, 193.
+
+ Emperor of Austria, Franz Joseph I., 182.
+
+ English Channel, 18, 117.
+
+ English Club, St. Petersburg, 134.
+
+ Erlanger, Emile, 183.
+
+ Erlanger, Louis, Count Excelmans, 183.
+
+ Europe and America in 1870, 207, 209–222.
+
+ Evans, Thomas W., 35, 180, 182, 183.
+
+ Executive Mansion or White House, 48, 51, 62.
+
+
+ Faneuil Hall, Boston, 41.
+
+ Farragut, David Glasgow, Admiral, 224.
+
+ Fearing, H. S., 145.
+
+ Fetridge, William Pembroke, 34, 36, 38.
+
+ Fifth Avenue, New York, 29.
+
+ Fifth Corps, Army of the Potomac, Union Forces, War of 1861-’65, 156,
+ 157, 158.
+
+ Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, 63, 116, 157.
+
+ Fifteenth Amendment, 57, 58, 60.
+
+ Fifty-fifth N. Y. Regt. Inf., 21.
+
+ Finland, 186.
+
+ Finland, Grand Duchy of, 186.
+
+ Finland, Gulf of, 97, 172, 186.
+
+ First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, 158.
+
+ First Mass. Cavalry, 16, 156–158.
+
+ Fish, Hamilton, 22.
+
+ Fleetwing, yacht, 27.
+
+ Fogg Museum, Harvard College, 71.
+
+ Folies Dramatiques, Paris, 10.
+
+ Fontainebleau, 162.
+
+ Forbes, Paul, 161, 183.
+
+ Ford’s Theatre, Washington, D. C., 61, 66.
+
+ Forest of Fontainebleau, 42.
+
+ Four-in-Hand Club, 28.
+
+ Fourteenth Amendment, 56, 57, 59.
+
+ Fox, Gustavus Vasa, 36, 135, 136, 185, 224.
+
+ Fox’s Mission, 135, 136.
+
+ Fremont, John C., 47, 48, 50.
+
+ Friederichshamm, Peace of, 186.
+
+ Frog Pond, Boston Common, 85.
+
+ Fugitive Slave Law, repeal of, 55.
+
+
+ Gagarine, Julie, Princess, 121.
+
+ Galitzine, Prince, 150.
+
+ Garcia, John, 36.
+
+ Gare de l’ Ouest, Paris, 15.
+
+ Garrison, William Lloyd, 44.
+
+ Gautier, Théophile, 40.
+
+ General Kotzebue, steamship, 179, 182.
+
+ German Club, Moscow, 115.
+
+ Gettysburg, Penn., 64.
+
+ Gillig, Henry F., 26.
+
+ Goddard, Ely, 33.
+
+ Golden Horn, 181.
+
+ Gortschakoff, Alexander Michailowitsch, Prince, 95, 96, 150, 211.
+
+ Gostinny Dvor, Moscow, 108.
+
+ Gott, Daniel, 45.
+
+ Goubareff, Demetrius, 222, 223.
+
+ Grand Duchess Helena, 200.
+
+ Grand Duke Alexis, 225.
+
+ Grand Duke Constantine, 194, 200.
+
+ Grand Duke Nicholas, 174.
+
+ Grand Hotel, Paris, 15, 16, 24, 35, 166.
+
+ Grand Opera, Moscow, 115.
+
+ Grand Opera, Paris, 24.
+
+ Grand Opera, St. Petersburg, 84, 88, 141, 143, 149.
+
+ Grand Prix, Paris, 161.
+
+ Grand Theatre, Moscow, 105.
+
+ Grant, Ulysses S., 65, 66, 173.
+
+ Gray Collection of Engravings, 70, 71.
+
+ Gray, Francis Colley, 70.
+
+ Gray, George Griswold, 28, 33.
+
+ Great Eastern, steamship, 18.
+
+ Greek Church, 181, 182, 188.
+
+ Green, J. Orne, 72.
+
+ Gregg, John I., 156, 157.
+
+
+ Hamburg, 168.
+
+ Harvard College, 22, 70, 89.
+
+ Havana, Cuba, 26.
+
+ Hayti, 44, 51.
+
+ Healy, G. P. A., 203.
+
+ Henrietta, yacht, 27, 28.
+
+ Hereditary Medals, 205.
+
+ Hermitage, 84, 151.
+
+ Higginson, Frank L., 17.
+
+ Holland, J. G., 44.
+
+ Holy Synod, 188, 205, 206.
+
+ Hooker, Joseph, 62.
+
+ Hotel de la Paix, 9.
+
+ Hotel Dusaux, Moscow, 103.
+
+ Hudson River, 28.
+
+ Hunnewell, Hollis, 17.
+
+ Hunt, William Morris, 40–42.
+
+ Hunter, David A., 50.
+
+ Hurlburt, William Henry, 145.
+
+ Hyde Park, London, 111.
+
+
+ Imperial Library, St. Petersburg, 151.
+
+ Invitation, Note of, 94.
+
+ Isla, 141.
+
+ Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, 216.
+
+ Ismailia, 179.
+
+ Ivan III., 185.
+
+
+ Jackson, Charles C., 17, 25.
+
+ Jagellon, Duke of Lithuania, 154.
+
+ Jamaica Pond, Roxbury, Mass., 135.
+
+ Jay, William, 28.
+
+ Jeannette, steamship, 159.
+
+ Jerome, Lawrence, 29.
+
+ Jerome, Leonard W., 27.
+
+ Jockeys’ Ball, 32.
+
+ Johnson, Andrew, 117, 136.
+
+ Johnson, “Ned”, 27.
+
+ Jonesville, East Tennessee, 44.
+
+
+ Khedive, 180, 182, 216, 219.
+
+ Kimball, Moses, 66.
+
+ King of Prussia, William I., 161, 164.
+
+ Knapp, A. W., 29.
+
+ Königsberg, 24, 70, 73.
+
+ Kosciusko, Thaddeus, 153, 154.
+
+ Kremlin, Moscow, 103, 105, 107, 108, 114, 116, 121, 187.
+
+ Kremlin, Novgorod, 140.
+
+ Kronborg Castle, 170.
+
+ Kropotkin, Prince, 204.
+
+ Kung, Prince, 166.
+
+
+ Lafayette, Gilbert Motier de, 37, 44.
+
+ Lamson, Daniel S., 89, 90.
+
+ Lane, David, 89.
+
+ Lee, John C., 168.
+
+ Lee, Robert E., 21, 52, 62.
+
+ Le Ray, Maurice, 16.
+
+ Lincoln, Abraham, 41–67, 166, 204, 224.
+
+ Lincoln, Abraham, Death of, 61–63.
+
+ Lincoln, Abraham, Statues of, 64, 66.
+
+ Lithuanian Provinces, 74, 194.
+
+ Lockwood, Alfred, 36.
+
+ London, Eng., 17, 23, 39, 120, 207, 222.
+
+ Long Branch, New Jersey, 221.
+
+ Longchamps, 25, 161.
+
+ Longfellow, Charles A., 16–19, 23–25, 26, 38, 39, 69, 70, 72, 82, 84,
+ 94, 97, 98, 105, 114, 118, 119, 123, 138–140, 142, 148, 151,
+ 153–159.
+
+ Longfellow, Ernest, 23, 122.
+
+ Longfellow, Henry W., 16, 38, 70, 88, 125.
+
+ Lorillard, George, 36.
+
+ Lorillard, Louis, 36.
+
+ Loubat, J. F., Duc de, 35, 36, 136.
+
+ Louvre, Paris, 23.
+
+ Lundy, Benjamin, 43.
+
+ Lyrique, Paris, 23.
+
+
+ Manchuria, 186.
+
+ Manhattan Club, New York, 145.
+
+ Manifesto of Emancipation, Russia, 198.
+
+ Marble, Manton, 145.
+
+ Martin, Augustus P., 157.
+
+ Maximilian, Ferdinand Joseph, Emperor of Mexico, 163.
+
+ Mazourka, 115, 121, 154.
+
+ McClellan, George B., 52.
+
+ McVickar, William H., 28.
+
+ Meade, George G., 156.
+
+ Mediterranean Sea, 179.
+
+ Merrill, T. Watson, 159.
+
+ Mesnil, Baron de, 31.
+
+ Metropolitan, Moscow, 181.
+
+ Metropolitan, St. Petersburg, 137.
+
+ Miantonomoh, monitor, 136.
+
+ Mickiewicz, Adam, 155.
+
+ Mill Dam Road, Boston, 83.
+
+ Mine Run, 156, 157.
+
+ Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Russia, 96, 188.
+
+ Ministry of Public Instruction, Russia, 186, 188.
+
+ Mississippi River, 47.
+
+ Morley, Henry, 19.
+
+ Moscow, 24, 38, 39, 76, 81, 86, 98–103, 105, 114, 116–118, 121, 134,
+ 139, 176, 177, 181, 185, 187, 189, 194, 205.
+
+ Moscow, gas-lighting of, 152.
+
+ Mount Cenis Tunnel, 179.
+
+ Mount Pleasant, Ohio, 44.
+
+ Muscovy, 187.
+
+
+ Nahant, Mass., 18, 153, 159.
+
+ Napoleon Bonaparte, 73, 102, 176.
+
+ Napoleon III., 25, 161–164, 180, 216, 217.
+
+ Narragansett Avenue, Newport, R. I., 32.
+
+ National Museum, Washington, D. C., 67.
+
+ Navy and Army Club, Cronstadt, 97.
+
+ Neva Club, 134.
+
+ Neva River, 39, 84, 85, 108, 137, 151, 153, 184, 185.
+
+ Neva Skating Club, 84, 85, 93.
+
+ Nevski Prospect, St. Petersburg, 83, 87, 111, 134, 205.
+
+ Newfoundland, 18.
+
+ New or Mount Hope Church, Va., 16, 156–158.
+
+ New London, Conn., 29.
+
+ New Orleans, La., 21.
+
+ Newport, N. H., 29.
+
+ Newport, R. I., 16, 28–33, 147, 150, 221.
+
+ Newport, R. I., Beach, 30–33, 121.
+
+ Newport, R. I., Jockey Club, 31.
+
+ New York City, 9, 10, 14, 21, 28, 29, 36, 60, 63, 77, 89, 90, 120, 135,
+ 136, 166, 221, 224, 225.
+
+ New York Club, 90, 91.
+
+ New York Yacht Club, 27, 28.
+
+ Nice, 207, 222.
+
+ Nicholas I., 95, 192, 193, 194.
+
+ Nicholas II., 202, 203, 205, 206.
+
+ Nisbet, W. F., 153.
+
+ Nobility Club, 115.
+
+ Non-Intervention of the United States, 218–220.
+
+ Norton, Charles B., 183.
+
+ Nottaway Court House, Va., 62.
+
+ Novgorod, 135, 140, 141, 185.
+
+ Nuba Pasha, 182.
+
+
+ Odessa, 24, 98, 177–179, 187, 208.
+
+ Oglesby, R. J., 65.
+
+ Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, 67.
+
+ Opera House, Berlin, 72.
+
+ Oriental Quadrille, 144, 146, 147.
+
+ Oscar, King of Sweden and Norway, 170.
+
+ Otis, James, 147.
+
+ Otis, William C., 28.
+
+ Ourousoff, Prince, 31, 121, 150.
+
+ Ourousoff, Princess, 150.
+
+
+ Palais Royal, Paris, 10.
+
+ Panama Canal, 29, 37, 164, 178, 183.
+
+ Paris, 9–11, 14–17, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27, 34–40, 68, 69, 73, 83, 85, 86,
+ 88, 103, 115, 117, 126, 153, 155, 161–169, 176, 179, 183, 203, 207,
+ 222, 223.
+
+ Paris Exposition of 1867, 39, 41, 151, 160, 164.
+
+ Passage, St. Petersburg, 85.
+
+ Passage des Panoramas, Paris, 85.
+
+ Patriarch Adrian, 188.
+
+ Patriarch of Constantinople, 181, 182.
+
+ Patriarchal Cathedral, 114.
+
+ Patti, Adelina, 26, 27.
+
+ Paul, Emperor, 191.
+
+ Peabody, George, 152, 153.
+
+ Peabody, S. Endicott, 168.
+
+ Perkins, C. C., 26.
+
+ Peter the Great, 85, 98, 187, 188, 190.
+
+ Peter III., 193.
+
+ Philippe’s, Paris, 39.
+
+ Phœnix, Lloyd, 36.
+
+ Picpus Cemetery, Paris, 37.
+
+ Pierce, Josiah, Jr., 88.
+
+ Place de la Concorde, Paris, 161.
+
+ Place de l’Opera, Paris, 35.
+
+ Place du Nouvel Opera, Paris, 9.
+
+ Plevna, 204.
+
+ Poland, 75, 80, 153–155, 186, 195.
+
+ Polar Sea, 186.
+
+ Pompeiian Villa, 24.
+
+ Pomutz, George, 176.
+
+ Port Said, 179, 182, 226.
+
+ Post, Albert Kintzing, 21.
+
+ Postal Union, 219.
+
+ Post, Waldron Kintzing, 22.
+
+ Prague, Peace of, 210.
+
+ Pratt, Thomas, 36.
+
+ Pré Catalan, 165.
+
+ Presentation, 92, 173.
+
+ Proclamation of Emancipation, 52–54.
+
+
+ Raasloff, Waldemar Rudolph, 168, 171.
+
+ Rappahannock River, Va., 63.
+
+ Rescript of Nazimof, 195.
+
+ Review of Troops in France, 161, 162.
+
+ Review of Troops in Russia, 121, 173–176.
+
+ Review of Troops in Sweden, 170.
+
+ Rhodes, 179.
+
+ Rice, Alexander H., 177.
+
+ Rice, A. Thorndike, 146.
+
+ Riggs, Elisha, 36.
+
+ Ristori, Adelaide, 25, 26.
+
+ River Rhine, 218.
+
+ Riverside Park, Cambridgeport, Mass., 115.
+
+ Roberts, Benjamin Stone, 97.
+
+ Rome, 39, 87, 93, 130, 211.
+
+ Rosalie, 123, 125–129, 131.
+
+ Rue Auber, Paris, 36.
+
+ Rue Castiglione, Paris, 176.
+
+ Rue de là Paix, Paris, 9, 17, 24, 35.
+
+ Rue Royale, Paris, 176.
+
+ Rue St. Honoré, Paris, 176.
+
+ Rurik, yacht, 136, original settler, 185.
+
+ Russell, Harry, 32.
+
+ Russia and the United States, 186, 223–225.
+
+ Russian Beggar, 75, 201.
+
+ Russian Horse, 77, 78, 81, 97, 98, 105, 106, 108–113, 115, 120, 121,
+ 150.
+
+ Russian Navigation Company, 179.
+
+ Russian Sleigh, 77, 78, 81, 83, 87, 94, 105, 120, 149.
+
+ Russian Yacht Club, 84.
+
+
+ Saint Cloud, 164.
+
+ Saint Gaudens, Augustus, 66.
+
+ Saint Germain, 223.
+
+ Saint Louis, Mo., 47.
+
+ Saint Michel Theatre, St. Petersburg, 88.
+
+ Saint Petersburg, 17, 19, 24, 38, 39, 72, 74, 78, 81, 82, 91, 92, 96,
+ 98, 102, 103, 108, 116–118, 121, 122, 132–134, 136, 138, 139, 143,
+ 145, 152–154, 167–169, 172, 173, 176, 177, 181, 187, 197, 203, 215,
+ 216.
+
+ Saint Petersburg and Moscow Railroad, 99, 101, 177.
+
+ Saint Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad, 80, 177.
+
+ Saint Thomas, island, 171.
+
+ Samanos, Augustus, 36.
+
+ San Francisco, 10, 91, 124, 167, 181, 224.
+
+ Sargent, Harry, 17.
+
+ Sayles, Henry, 132.
+
+ Scilly Islands, 9.
+
+ Secession of Southern States, 46.
+
+ Serfs, 189–191.
+
+ Serfs, Emancipation of, 192–203.
+
+ Seward, William H., 51, 54, 55, 64.
+
+ Shattuck, George B., 70, 124, 143.
+
+ Sherman, William T., 65.
+
+ Siberia, 191, 193.
+
+ Simpson, Matthew, 62.
+
+ Sixteenth Mass. Infantry, 90.
+
+ Smith, Charles K., 86, 89–91.
+
+ Snead, Thomas L., 48.
+
+ Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D. C., 43.
+
+ Somerset Club, Boston, 22.
+
+ Southwell, Viscount, 32, 33.
+
+ Souworoff, or Suwarrow, Alexander Vasilievitch, Count Rymnikski, 143.
+
+ Spanish Ambassador, St. Petersburg, 93, 98, 99.
+
+ Spencer, Lorillard, 35.
+
+ Springfield, Ill., 62.
+
+ Staigg Portrait, 117, 122, 124, 132, 133.
+
+ Staigg, Richard M., 123, 124, 152.
+
+ Stanfield, Harry, 17–19, 23, 24, 29.
+
+ Stevenson, Robert H., 25, 27.
+
+ Stockholm, Sweden, 167, 169, 170, 180.
+
+ Straits of Dover, 220.
+
+ Strogonoff, Count, 177.
+
+ Suez Canal, 35, 164, 168, 169, 178–180, 208, 215–217, 226.
+
+ Sully, Thomas, 126–128.
+
+ Sultan of Turkey, Abdul-Aziz, 162, 163, 216, 219.
+
+ Sykes, George, 156.
+
+ Synod, Holy, 188, 205, 206.
+
+ System of Government in Russia, 187–189.
+
+
+ Talleyrand-Perigord, Charles Maurice, Prince of Benevento, 13.
+
+ Tchudova, 140.
+
+ Thies, Louis, 70.
+
+ Thirteenth U. S. Infantry, 21.
+
+ Thirty-first U. S. Infantry, 20, 21.
+
+ Tilsit, Peace of, 73.
+
+ Tivoli, 152.
+
+ Trumbull, Lyman, 46.
+
+ Tsarskoë Selo, 150.
+
+
+ Union Club, San Francisco, 91.
+
+ Union Pacific Railroad, 167.
+
+ United States Treasury, 62, 117, 178.
+
+ Upsala, 170.
+
+ Ural Mountains, 108.
+
+
+ Venice, 102.
+
+ Versailles, 23, 36, 98.
+
+ Vesta, yacht, 27.
+
+ Vevey, Switzerland, 222.
+
+ Vice Roi of Egypt, 182, 216.
+
+ Victoria Theatre, Berlin, 70.
+
+ Vienna, 25, 39, 102, 153, 155.
+
+ Ville de Paris, steamship, 9, 14.
+
+ Virginia, 156.
+
+ Voisin, Armand, 36.
+
+ Volga River, 108.
+
+
+ Wainwright, Charles S., 62.
+
+ War Department, Washington, D. C., 67.
+
+ Warsaw, 24, 148, 153.
+
+ War with Spain, 172, 219.
+
+ Washburn, Elihu B., 165, 168.
+
+ Washington Club, Paris, 22, 29, 34–38.
+
+ Washington, D. C., 11, 16, 43, 61, 127, 165, 166, 181, 183, 213, 219.
+
+ Washington Heights, 27, 28.
+
+ Waterloo, 26, 39, 68.
+
+ Wayman, Bishop, 65.
+
+ Wheeling, West Virginia, 43.
+
+ Whistler, George W., 98, 99.
+
+ Whistler, James A. McN., 98.
+
+ White Sea, 185.
+
+ Willett, “Bronnie,” 34.
+
+ Wilna, 24, 70, 73, 74, 79.
+
+ Wilson, Henry, 65.
+
+ Winans, Ross, 88, 98, 99, 177.
+
+ Winans, Thomas de Kay, 99.
+
+ Winans, William Louis, 99.
+
+ Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, 95, 121, 134, 137, 149, 173, 205.
+
+ Winthrop, Eugene, 35.
+
+ Winthrop, Robert, 221.
+
+ Wood, Fernando, 168.
+
+ Wordsworth, William, 131, 132.
+
+ Woronzoff, Prince, 178.
+
+ Wright, Frances, 44.
+
+ Wright, Joseph A., 72.
+
+ Wright, Smith, 129, 130.
+
+
+ Yacht Club Pond, 84.
+
+ Yacht Club Skating Ground, 141.
+
+ Young, Samuel P., 105.
+
+------------------------------------------------------------------------
+
+
+
+
+ TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
+
+
+ ● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***
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+
+ <body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***</div>
+
+
+<div class='tnotes covernote'>
+
+<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p>
+
+<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+ <div>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div id='Frontispiece' class='c002 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt='Longfellow and Appleton' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+<div class='c001'></div>
+<main>
+<div class='titlepage'>
+
+<div>
+ <h1 class='c003'>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY<br> <span class='large'>AS SEEN IN 1866-’67 BY APPLETON AND LONGFELLOW, TWO YOUNG TRAVELLERS FROM THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, WHO HAD BEEN OFFICERS IN THE UNION ARMY, AND A JOURNEY TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS IN 1869.</span></h1>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c002 figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_title.jpg' alt='An ornamental monogram of the letters "NA" enclosed within a decorative shield-shaped frame.' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+ <div class='nf-center'>
+ <div><span class='large'>WITH SKETCHES OF ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> AND ABRAHAM LINCOLN, AND EMANCIPATION IN THE EMPIRE OF RUSSIA AND THE REPUBLIC OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.</span></div>
+ <div class='c002'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Prepared by</span></span></div>
+ <div class='c004'><span class='xlarge'>BREVET CAPTAIN NATHAN APPLETON</span></div>
+ <div class='c004'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Author of</span></span></div>
+ <div class='c004'>“HARVARD COLLEGE DURING THE WAR.”</div>
+ <div class='c004'>BOSTON, 1904.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+ <div><span class='small'>Copyright, 1904</span></div>
+ <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>By Nathan Appleton.</span></span></div>
+ <div><span class='small'>(<cite>All Rights Reserved.</cite>)</span></div>
+ <div class='c002'><span class='small'>Press of Murray and Emery Company Boston, Massachusetts</span></div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+ <div>TO</div>
+ <div class='c004'><span class='large'>PRINCESS J—— G——</span></div>
+ <div class='c004'>IN PLEASANT RECOLLECTION OF SKATING AT MOSCOW. JANUARY, 1867, THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c005'>THE AUTHOR</div>
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Boston, 1904.</span></span></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001'></div>
+<nav data-epub-type="toc">
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CONTENTS</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter First</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'></td>
+ <th class='c009'><span class='fss'>PAGE</span></th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Arrival in Paris and Adieu. The Yacht Alice</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Second</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Lincoln and Emancipation</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_43'>43</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Third</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Brussels, Berlin, Königsburg, Wilna</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_68'>68</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Fourth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Gortschakoff, Cronstadt</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Fifth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Moscow. The City and Environs. Trotting in Russia</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_100'>100</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Sixth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. The Neva. Novgorod. Poland</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_133'>133</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Seventh</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Charles Appleton Longfellow</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_156'>156</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Eighth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>France. Last Days of the Empire. To Russia with Gen. Banks</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_160'>160</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Ninth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Emancipation</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_184'>184</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c009'>&#160;</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>Chapter Tenth</span></td></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Europe and America in 1870. Demetrius Goubareff. Russia and the United States</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#Page_207'>207</a></td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+</nav>
+
+<div class='c001'></div>
+<nav data-epub-type="loi">
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c006'>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Longfellow and Appleton</td>
+ <td class='c009'><em><a href='#Frontispiece'>Frontispiece.</a></em></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'></td>
+ <th class='c009'>OP. PAGE</th>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Yacht Alice, Cowes, I. W., 1866</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_018'>18</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Captain, Passengers and Crew of the Alice</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_019'>19</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'><span lang="fr">Rue de la Paix, à Paris</span></td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_024'>24</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_031'>31</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Troika</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_038'>38</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Abraham Lincoln</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_043'>43</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Wilna</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_068'>68</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Statue of Kant, Königsburg, 1866</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_073'>73</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Single Sleigh</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_074'>74</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Nevski Prospect, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_081'>81</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Hon. Cassius M. Clay, Minister to Russia</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_082'>82</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Bolshaja Morskaja (Great Sea Street)</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_086'>86</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Christmas Shopping in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_087'>87</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>The Kremlin, Moscow</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_100'>100</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Drinking Tea</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_104'>105</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>A Coursier</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_110'>110</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>The Staigg Portrait</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_117'>117</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Rosalie</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_125'>125</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>The Blessing of the Neva</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_133'>133</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>The Midnight Drive</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_140'>140</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Skating in the Yousoupoff Garden</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_141'>141</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Circassian Uniform</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_142'>142</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Sledge Drawn by Reindeer</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_151'>151</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Drosky</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_153'>153</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Charles Appleton Longfellow</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_156'>156</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Hon. Nathaniel P. Banks, Representative from Massachusetts</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_160'>160</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Ferdinand de Lesseps</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_179'>179</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, 1866</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_184'>184</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Odessa, 1899</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_207'>207</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c008'>Port Said. Opening of the Suez Canal</td>
+ <td class='c009'><a href='#i_226'>225</a></td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+</nav>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+ <div>RUSSIAN LIFE AND SOCIETY</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FIRST.<br> <span class='c010'>ARRIVAL IN PARIS AND ADIEU. THE YACHT ALICE.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Our trusty friend, our true ally</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Through varied change and chance:</div>
+ <div class='line'>So fill your flashing goblets high,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>I give you, vive la France.”</div>
+ <div class='line in22'>—<em>Oliver Wendell Holmes.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c012'>I sailed from New York early in October, 1866,
+in the French line steamer <em>Ville de Paris</em>, Captain
+Surmont. Time about eleven days to Brest.
+Cloudy weather, and the last four or five days no
+observation, so one morning we found ourselves
+near the Scilly Islands, and from there steamed
+over to Brest, arriving in the afternoon. I had a
+room with Frank Burgess of Boston, whom I then
+knew but slightly, and, as we found that we liked
+each other and had the same objects in view at
+Paris, we went there and took rooms together at
+the Hotel de la Paix, since torn down for the Place
+du Nouvel Opera, corner Rue de la Paix and the
+Boulevard. The month I passed there until going
+to Russia was one of my liveliest and pleasantest
+in Paris.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The voyage across the ocean was the same old
+story so often and often described. There was
+the same queer medley of passengers as always,
+and they told the same stories they always do,
+and passed their time in the same old way. There
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span>was the knowing Yankee buyer, going on his hurried
+autumn business tour through Europe, who
+gave every one to understand that this was his
+forty-seventh voyage across the Atlantic, and that
+he knew pretty well how to take care of himself.
+He had been in nearly every steamship of every
+line between Europe and America, and gave advice
+freely as to their relative merits. He always could
+tell the exact position of the ship, in fog or shine,
+better than the Captain himself, and was most
+active in getting up, every day after lunch, pools
+on the ship’s run, after which he would rush about
+making his “book,” buying and selling tickets to
+increase his chances of winning.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Then there was the jolly <em>paterfamilias</em>, who had
+been passing the last four months at the Fifth
+Avenue Hotel, looking after his investments, and
+was now returning, to join his family who were
+living in Paris, and who would gladly welcome
+him and his full purse. He was always around,
+and very attentive to and a great favorite with
+the ladies, young and old.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There was the same group of Cubans smoking
+cigarettes and talking Spanish together with wild
+gesticulations, but keeping aloof from the other
+passengers. And, oh! the pretty French actress,
+returning for the winter season in Paris at the
+Folies Dramatiques or the Palais Royal, fresh
+from the applause and bouquets in New York,
+Chicago and San Francisco. She was dark, she
+was petite, she had arched eyebrows and the
+slightest touch of paint under her sparkling orbs.
+She never appeared on deck until near dinner
+time and then in a lovely toilette, as if she were
+just going to take a drive at the Bois. And how
+at the concert, organized a few nights before sighting
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>the coast of <em><span lang="fr">la belle</span></em> France, she charmed all as
+she sang some of her opera bouffe songs.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Of course the precocious youth was aboard, going
+out for the fourth time to see the Coliseum, and
+what wonderful information he imparted to such
+listeners as he could get. When the wind was aft
+he assured you that the boat was making at least
+fifteen knots, and that we should arrive at Brest in
+time to take the eight o’clock train for Paris; then,
+again, when the wind was dead ahead he consoled
+you with the thought that it made the fires draw
+well, which was a good thing; but if it struck the
+boat on either beam he could conclusively prove
+that the sails being well filled the steamer was
+steady in her movements, which, after all, was
+better than rolling about too fast. If it chanced
+to rain he cheered the disconsolate passengers by
+stating that it would help beat down the waves
+and make the sea less rough! Every day, too,
+he seemed to think,—nor did he keep this sagacious
+thought to himself,—lightened the ship of
+so much coal, and then as for the advantages of
+fogs or icebergs, no possible question on the subject
+could puzzle him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Pretty girls flitted here and there, or were spread
+out in their chairs and looked uncomfortable.
+“Swells” gloomily lounged around: enthusiastic
+young travellers were always on hand at everything
+which turned up in the ship’s management,
+especially the throwing the log and taking the
+observations, as if determined at the outset to
+lose none of their money’s worth of sight-seeing.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A clever lady from Washington was always
+posed in a corner of the saloon, a half read novel
+in hand, her <em>flacon</em> and fan on either side, and
+she herself happy at any time, morning, afternoon
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>or evening, to enter with you into a long conversation
+on any subject.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A French priest and a Western parson kept
+theology well argued as an appetizer for your
+meals, while in the smoking room the poker party
+was going on all through the voyage with scarcely
+an intermission.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The bluff old Captain was ever about with a
+pleasant smile and word for all, inspiring those
+of whom he was the ten-day autocrat, with a
+feeling of security by his own solid and comfortable
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A system for passing the time on shipboard I
+found worked very well, and I am only too glad
+to recommend it to any who choose to try it for
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Take your coffee about nine in bed in your
+state room propped up with numerous pillows,
+then go through the operation of being shaved
+if the offices of a Figaro are required, who may
+be one of the ship’s stewards. After this a couple
+of hours or so may be passed in reading, and for
+this a selection of a dozen books or so you may
+have had placed on the shelf over your couch, so
+that you can choose any one which happens to
+suit your mood, or, scratch off your thoughts on
+a block of paper, always to be carried on your
+travels, thus taking down rambling notes where-ever
+you go. Rising about half an hour before
+lunch time, you get up an appetite by sniffing the
+sea air and chatting with those who are about.
+Next comes lunch itself, an important item in
+the day, which with its subsequent cigar or pipe
+can be made to dispose of nearly two hours. Then
+approaches the toughest part of the twenty-four
+portions into which day and night are subdivided,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>the time between lunch and dinner. A
+hand at poker or <em><span lang="fr">vingt-et-un</span></em> helps it along, a conversation
+with some fair one in that favorite spot
+behind the wheelhouse is a powerful auxiliary,
+and, if nothing else turns up, a lazy novel or a
+siesta would annihilate the moments until the
+first bell ringing gives the welcome intimation
+that the time for toilette is at hand.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Dinner, with or without appetite it makes no
+difference for go through the form of remaining
+at table you must, would next take its regular
+place in the programme, and that and a cigar well
+over and digested, you are ready to sit down to
+your evening party of whist. Than this there is
+no better recreation for passing the hours after
+dark, and the selection of a good set of players
+at an early stage of the voyage is an important
+and not to be neglected duty. Is it not probable
+that the great Talleyrand, when he advised the
+young man to learn thoroughly this king of games
+at cards out of regard for his declining years,
+remembered with pleasure the hours he had thus
+passed in his journeys by water? So the evening
+goes along, the ladies retire, the lights are put out
+in the saloon, and the male portion of the community
+is free to take possession of the smoking
+room, there to sit well into the night and to recount
+story after story.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was thus we existed the ten days of our passage,
+making pleasant acquaintances in that free
+offhand way which gives no binding claim for
+future continuance. You meet, you take each
+other for what you are worth, you separate, it may
+be to see each other again some time, it may be
+never, and intimacies under such circumstances
+are quickly formed, and as quickly forgotten.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>Before we were well aware of it, so speedily the
+last days on the ocean flew by, all the passengers
+being well and overflowing with good spirits, the
+bright coast of France loomed up before our eyes
+in the distance, the green fields could almost be
+scented afar off, and there was bustle and activity
+in the <em>Ville de Paris</em>. Trunks were being brought
+up, and people who did not in the least care for
+each other were saying good by a dozen times.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Down goes the anchor with a plunge, the quai
+at Brest is swarming with officials and idlers, all
+chattering like mad, the tug boat sweeps up before
+the <em>douane</em>, we step ashore, and find ourselves in
+France.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gay, Gay Paris.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>How the heart of the American beats with joy
+whenever he enters Paris, that queen city of cities,
+which he regards as almost a second home, feeling
+a genuine pride of possession in its beautiful monuments,
+its long avenues, its brilliant fêtes, and
+all its institutions of instruction and amusement.
+And cannot a probable reason why the American
+takes to it so much more than to any other foreign
+city,—why the asphalt of the boulevard is to him
+almost as dear as the flag-stones of Broadway,—be
+found in the fact of the <em>real democracy</em> of the
+<em>social life</em> in Paris and France? The government
+may be a despotism or a revolution: the annoyances
+of bureaucracy and red tape are nowhere greater
+than there; the petty details of business life amuse
+and vex you, but in spite of all, the social life of
+the people, whether natives or strangers, is as
+free as free can be, provided none of the laws of
+the land are broken. You come, you go, you do
+this or you do that, you can dine at one o’clock
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span>on beef and cabbage, or at seven on woodcock
+with truffles; you can live in a palace or a <em><span lang="fr">cinquième</span></em>;
+you can go to the opera in evening dress
+or blouse; you can study medicine or you can
+study pleasure; you can drive in a four-in-hand
+or in a fiacre; you can do everything or nothing:
+whoever you are, or whatever your fortune may
+be, no one will interfere; your eccentricities will
+cause little remark, you will be unmolested, for
+all are too much occupied with themselves to pay
+much attention to others, and you may be certain
+that, do your best to astonish those about you,
+it will not be easy to offer them a new sensation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I had been there before,—this was my third
+voyage across the Atlantic,—and had seen the
+guide-book sights of the city, and congratulated
+myself heartily upon the accomplishment, for it
+was off my mind and I would be spared from
+doing it now.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One is not likely to forget the sensations experienced
+during the long drive from the railroad
+station to the hotel when first arriving at Paris,
+especially if it be after dark, through the brilliantly
+lighted streets, across the great squares, full as
+they always are of the gayest hearted people in
+the world, with apparently nothing to do except
+treat life as a continual holiday, and I went
+through it again with the freshness of a first visit,
+as we were taken the distance which separates
+the <em><span lang="fr">Gare de l’Ouest</span></em> from the Grand Hotel, at
+which place we had decided to camp for the night,
+and leave hunting up some snug apartment until
+the morrow. The clock was just striking nine as
+the little omnibus came with a clatter and cracking
+of whip into the spacious court-yard, and after
+supper and a short stroll on the boulevard, I
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span>“turned in,” my imagination picturing in rose-colored
+dreams all we would do and see.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Letter To My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Paris, October 22, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Dear Mamma:</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>My last note must, I think, have been rather
+unsatisfactory, and I hasten to do amends with
+a longer one. The fact was that I arrived in
+Paris at the Hotel just about half an hour before
+the French mail for the Cunard steamer closed,
+and I had either to drop just one line to announce
+my safe arrival or nothing at all. The voyage
+over was, like all, very tedious, and we had pretty
+bad weather on the whole. Not knowing where
+we were at length we ran into a light on the English
+coast, and from there made our way down
+south to Brest, where I landed and ran right up
+to Paris. I like the steamer better than the
+Cunard, she is very fast, and is much more adapted
+to the comfort of a gentleman, especially as there
+is a cozy little smoking room where you could
+play whist in the evenings; also a barber’s shop,
+and the state rooms are better arranged. I came
+up to Paris with Frank Burgess and Maurice Le
+Ray (one of the Newport jockeys of the past
+summer, attaché to the French legation at Washington,
+who was a passenger on the steamer), and
+Burgess and I have taken some very nice rooms.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday morning Charlie Longfellow (Charles
+Appleton Longfellow, late lieutenant in the 1st
+Mass. Cavalry, wounded at Mt. Hope Church,
+Va., Nov. 27, 1863. He was the son of the poet
+Henry W. Longfellow, who married my half-sister
+Frances, so was my half-nephew, a year
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span>and some months younger than I), and Harry
+Stanfield tumbled in upon us, as they had that
+very night come over from London, and they
+gave us jolly accounts of the doings of the <em>Alice</em>
+during the past summer. Brother Tom (Thomas
+Gold Appleton) and Arthur Clark (Captain of the
+<em>Alice</em>) sail for home the last of the month. Charlie
+likes the idea of going off to Saint Petersburg by
+and by, so as to get there in the height of the winter,
+which time they say is really the best to see the
+place, but he wants to stay here a while to brush
+up his French. So I think I shall be quartered in
+Paris for some little time, perhaps a month, and
+pitch right into the study of French, and then
+start off with him for the cold regions of Europe.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Tuesday: After writing thus much yesterday
+I went round to the bank (Bowles, Drevet &#38; Cie
+at that time 24 Rue de la Paix) where I found
+your letter awaiting me, and I must say that considering
+you had only two or three days you have
+managed to pick up a vast amount of interesting
+items. The first Bostonian I met was Hollis
+Hunnewell. I have seen my classmates (at Harvard)
+(Charles C.) Jackson and (Frank L.) Higginson,
+and yesterday I called on the Harry Sargents.
+The weather is charming now, just right
+for driving about, and I hope it will continue so
+for a month, when we ought to expect the drizzly
+rains which will drive me off. There are so many
+from the “Hub” here now that Brother Tom’s
+last <em><span lang="fr">bon mot</span></em> is said to be “All Parisians are Bostonians.”</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+ <div class='nf-center'>
+ <div><span lang="fr">Au revoir.</span></div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Yacht Alice.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>The sloop yacht <em>Alice</em> was owned by Thomas
+Gold Appleton. She was about fifty feet in length
+and was built by Townsend at Portsmouth, <abbr title='Rhode Island'>R. I.</abbr>,
+in 1866. When last heard from she was a trader
+off the coast of Maine.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The <em>Alice</em> left Nahant July 12, 1866, arrived
+at the Needles July 30th, and Cowes Roads July
+31st. It was a remarkable trip and faster than
+that of any kind of vessel made across the Atlantic
+ocean with the then time allowance.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Captain Arthur H. Clark was in command, and she
+carried Charles A. Longfellow, the owner’s nephew,
+Harry Stanfield, a crew of three men and a Chinese
+steward. The owner, then fifty-four years old,
+crossed in the Cunarder <em>China</em>, and, joining the <em>Alice</em>
+at Cowes, cruised off the French coast and the Channel
+islands, see <cite>A Cruise of the Alice</cite> in <cite>A Sheaf of
+Papers</cite>, by T. G. Appleton, 1875.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One of the first business despatches sent by the
+cable across the Atlantic, the <em>Great Eastern</em> having
+successfully landed the cable at Newfoundland
+on July 27, 1866, was the safe arrival of the <em>Alice</em>,
+by C. A. Longfellow.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The owner thus addresses the beautiful yacht
+in his collection of poems called <cite>Faded Leaves</cite>:</p>
+
+<div id='i_018' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_018.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>YACHT ALICE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Away! the cloven waves unite</div>
+ <div class='line'>Behind in murmuring braids of snow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And seething whispers of delight,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As through the glassy fields we go;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And curtseying with a grace her own</div>
+ <div class='line'>Her bows of beauty in reply,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The white-winged creature moves alone,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Swan-like between the wave and sky.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Farewell, dear friend, my floating home;</div>
+ <div class='line'>A menacing finger in the sky</div>
+ <div class='line'>Bids us through summer seas to roam</div>
+ <div class='line'>No more, and from harsh winters fly.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Sleep! dreaming of the violet deep,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And think of us and happy hours,</div>
+ <div class='line'>While we through icy nights shall keep</div>
+ <div class='line'>Thoughts of the sails that once were ours.”</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div id='i_019' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_019.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>CAPTAIN, PASSENGERS AND CREW OF THE ALICE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The yacht wintered at Cowes and was brought
+back the next spring.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From Brother Tom in London.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Many thanks, my dear Naty, for your letter
+and the one enclosed. I would have been sorry
+to have missed it, as it is from an old friend, and
+in peculiar circumstances, and it would not have
+been well to have the letter go astray. And
+thanks for yours, too, though only announcing
+your arrival, and a sketch of your plans. You
+will do well to take Charlie and Harry if they will
+go, and in the winter Saint Petersburg must be
+fine, though after all not much beyond in cold
+splendor dear old Boston. I am reading a new
+book on Russia, by Henry Morley, and find much
+in it interesting. Today is so dark no one is up,
+and I am writing alone.... Who should be here
+but Townsend, my boat builder. He could not
+be quiet, hearing so much of the <em>Alice</em>. Tell
+Charlie he has gone to Cowes. Don’t you wish
+you loved yachting, and could have had the nice
+time we have had? It beats fancy wagons and
+top boots, I assure you.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Remember me to Charlie and Harry and bid
+them take care and be prudent and get into no
+scrapes.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span>Farewell and prosper, and do not leave your
+whiskers in the snows of Russia.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Yr. aff. brother, T. G. Appleton.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c017'>Charing X Hotel, 25th October.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>To my mother I wrote again from Paris, October
+26, 1866, Friday:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>I give you a short letter now which will make
+two for this week, enough certainly to satisfy the
+most rapacious of mothers! I have got pretty
+well settled into my life here now, of which one
+very important object is the study of French.
+I take a lesson every morning from a very good
+teacher, and go to a theatre most every evening,
+and I think I shall make rapid progress, in fact,
+as we ought to know a good deal before starting
+for Russia, it is advantageous to stay here a month
+and pitch into it. I have got quite a nice little
+French phaeton, with which I can rattle about
+the town, and drive up to the Bois in the afternoon,
+and the great difficulty is to find a decent horse
+to hire; my own at home being so very superior
+my taste has been quite ruined. I saw all the
+Imperial cortège out yesterday driving, but I
+think they all go to Compiègne soon, so that the
+season won’t begin here for some time.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand is here, and I handed
+him his commission, whereat he was in great
+doubt whether to go home or no. He wants to
+accept the commission of colonel of the 31st
+Infantry <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr> Let me know anything you
+would like to have me get you in Paris. I can
+easily find time to get it. Exchange is so different
+from when I was here before (On leave of absence
+on account of wound during the war.) that one
+can well be extravagant.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General de Trobriand.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand, author of <cite><span lang="fr">Quatre ans de campagnes
+à l’armée du Potomac</span></cite> (<cite>Four Years in the Army of
+the Potomac</cite>) 1867, Paris, Bruxelles, (translated) whose
+full name is Philippe Regis Denis de Kerodem, Baron de
+Trobriand, was born near Tours, France, June 4, 1816. In
+the United States he was known as Philippe Regis de
+Trobriand. From 1849 to 1861, in New York, he was
+editorially connected with first the <cite>Revue de Nouveau
+Monde</cite>, of which he was publisher, and then the <cite>Courrier
+des Etats Unis</cite>, as associate editor. In August, 1861, he
+was placed in command of the 55th New York Regiment,
+<abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr> of the Third Corps, promoted to Brigadier General
+in January, 1864, and from May to June of that year had
+charge of the defenses of New York City. He was brevetted
+Major General <abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr> April 9, 1865, and was in
+command of a Division at Lee’s surrender. In 1867, he
+was made colonel in the Regular army and placed in command
+of the 31st Regt. U. S. Infantry, brevetted Brigadier
+General in the same year, commanding the district of
+Dakota, and in 1869, was transferred to the district of
+Montana and the colonelcy of the 13th U. S. Infantry.
+Later he was ordered to Green River.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I visited him at Camp Douglas, near Salt Lake City, in
+October, 1870, and had a good opportunity of observing
+western army life and the institution of Mormonism. The
+camp was prettily placed on the slope of a hill, with
+quarters comfortably arranged. Several of the officers
+had their wives with them which made quite a little
+society. I stayed in the General’s house and had a horse
+at my disposal whenever I wanted to take a ride, and so I
+explored some of the picturesque and grand scenery of the
+neighborhood with the snow capped mountains quite near.
+To go into the city we generally took the headquarters
+wagon and did the thing in style.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand was the father-in-law of my friend
+and classmate Albert Kintzing Post, so naturally our
+relations were most friendly, and I have often met him on
+both sides of the ocean. He was in New Orleans in 1875,
+during the reconstruction period, after he retired from
+service on account of age, having been stationed there for
+some years.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1885, during the Cotton Exposition I lunched with
+him at his house in New Orleans, and met him and some
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>friends one day at the grounds, where we strolled about,
+and had a picnic repast under the trees. In 1887, at
+Paris I saw him again. It was in the summer, and at my
+suggestion he joined the “Franco-American,” known first
+as the “Washington,” Club, and he enjoyed dining there
+at the <em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em> with agreeable companions.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The General came on to Class Day at Harvard, to hear
+the poem delivered by his grandson Waldron Kintzing
+Post, the son of my old classmate, when he graduated in
+June, 1890, to attend the “spread” and other festivities,
+and then one evening we had a little family dinner at the
+Somerset Club. After passing a few days at the “Masconomo,”
+Manchester-by-the-Sea, with his daughter and
+her family, he went to the Reunion of the Society of the
+Army of the Potomac, at Portland, Maine, July 3d and
+4th, where he was enthusiastically received by the comrades
+of his old Corps the Third, and elected vice president
+of the Society to represent the Third Corps, Army of the
+Potomac. At that meeting I was elected a vice president
+in behalf of the Fifth Corps, it being the custom to elect
+every year, in addition to the president, vice presidents
+and other officers of the society, a vice president from each
+army corps that was in the Army of the Potomac.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>My last meeting with General de Trobriand was at the
+wedding of his grand daughter Lina Beatrice Post to
+Hamilton Fish Webster, at the Long Island summer home
+of the Posts. This was the autumn of 1891, and a pretty
+wedding it was in the little church, and a breakfast later
+under a large marquee. Of the grandparents of the
+young couple present at the wedding, besides General de
+Trobriand, there were Mrs. Armand de Macarty, grandmother
+of the bride, and the Hon. Hamilton Fish, grandfather
+of the groom.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>General de Trobriand died at the home of his daughter
+in Bayport, Long Island, July 15, 1897.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Hotel de la Paix, Paris,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>October 31, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have been calling on several of our good old
+Boston citizens, but have not found many of them
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span>at home. I went to the Louvre the other day,
+and found that lots of new galleries had been
+added, with all my friends of the French school
+put together, and I reveled in Watteau, Boucher,
+and Fragonard. I do not do much sight-seeing,
+and don’t care to, but tomorrow I am going out
+to Versailles with a party of ladies to finish up
+the chateau. This afternoon Charlie Longfellow
+goes with me driving in the Bois. Yesterday
+evening Charlie, Stanfield and Burgess and I went
+to the “Lyrique” and saw Faust very well put
+upon the stage. It was the first time I had ever
+seen or heard the opera, and I thought it very
+fine. Charlie and I shall start off for Russia probably
+in the course of a month, as we are not in
+any hurry and we are to find out about what will
+be the best season to be there and then hit it.
+Charlie is studying his French very industriously,
+and oddly enough he has tumbled into the very
+same rooms that Erny (His brother Ernest Longfellow.)
+had a year ago. I got a letter from brother
+Tom at London, a few days before he sailed. He
+seemed in good spirits over the triumphs of the
+<em>Alice</em>.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Friday Morn: Yesterday I had a very good
+though somewhat fatiguing day at Versailles, and
+I should have enjoyed the pictures very much if
+I could see them by degrees; but there are so many
+millions that one glance at them was all you could
+get. Some of those illustrating the wars of the
+present emperor in the Crimea, Italy and Algeria,
+are very fine. We had a young French “swell”
+to chaperon us, and of course saw all the best
+things, such as the private apartments of the
+Louis’ and Marie Antoinette. I visited with
+Charlie, on Wednesday, Jerome Napoleon’s Pompeiian
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>villa, which is now a concert room and well
+repays a visit. I don’t think the Pompeiian
+magnates themselves had anything quite up to it.
+Charlie and H. Stanfield still keep up their yachting
+fever and go to Asniéres on the Seine quite
+near Paris, and sail in a small yacht which some
+French count whom they met at Dieppe, has
+placed at their disposition. The de Trobriands
+leave for Brest in a few days, to pass the winter
+there as the General wishes quiet to finish his
+book before rejoining the army.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Later: Resolve in Favor of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Here I am at my desk, having finished my
+French lessons, and having written a long business
+letter, to find something to put upon paper
+in reply to “No. 3.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Boulevard and the Rue de la Paix with
+the Grand Opera and the Grand Hotel are just
+opposite, and below in the streets there is a continual
+excitement of passing objects; vehicles and pedestrians,
+soldiers and beggars, but principally Americans.
+There is always so much going on all around,
+that our apartment is not, perhaps, the best
+adapted for the quiet pursuit of literature. You
+see I am still in Paris, and perhaps you wonder
+whether I mean to leave at all. Know then that
+Charlie and I have made a vigorous resolution to
+pack up and be off the 25th of this month, stopping
+at Brussels, Berlin, Königsberg on the Baltic,
+and Wilna, to Saint Petersburg, and then Moscow,
+thus seeing the real winter life of the Russians.
+I think it will be a plendid trip. From Moscow
+we may go to Odessa, etc., but this is very doubtful,
+and we shall probably return viâ Warsaw to
+Dresden, where we separate—I for Vienna, and
+he back to Paris.</p>
+
+<div id='i_024' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_024.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p><span lang="fr">RUE DE LA PAIX À PARIS</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span></div>
+<blockquote>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+ <div class='nf-center'>
+ <div><span class='sc'>A Review by Napoleon III.</span></div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Thursday Eve: A few days ago, Charlie Jackson
+drove out with me to Longchamps, where the
+Emperor had quite a large review of the troops
+around Paris. There were, perhaps, fifteen thousand
+troops there, and as it was the first thing of
+the kind I had seen in Europe, it was very interesting
+and imposing, and brought back something
+of the old military ardor. The Emperor and
+Prince were there, but Napoleon looked rather
+shakey. He is no longer young.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I saw Mr. T. B. Curtis for a few minutes yesterday
+and thought he was seeming quite well after
+his sickness. He told me particularly to “go it,
+while” I was “young,” adding that he “had had
+his time.” His advice is certainty good. At the
+American chapel last Sunday were crowds and
+crowds of people, but very, very few whom I
+recognized. The same day Robert H. Stevenson
+and I went to the last races of the season, and saw
+a very fair steeple chase, but as it was some ways
+out of Paris there were not many there.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Letter from My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>My mother in Boston wrote me in Paris, Nov.
+11, 1866,—... “And Charlie Longfellow is in
+Paris! All that is left in Boston will soon find
+its way there. I had a very pleasant visit from
+your brother Tom last evening, telling me of the
+<em>Alice</em>, and of all his doings. Ristori (tragedienne)
+has reigned supreme here for two weeks, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>everybody has cried to their satisfaction. I did
+not dare to see her for I felt that I should not sleep
+for a month after it.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Adelaide Ristori.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>I first saw Adelaide Ristori, mentioned in my mother’s
+letter, at the theatre at Havana, in Medea, when I was
+there in February, 1868, and I met her and her daughter
+Bianca at a reception given at the hotel. Later, in the
+summer of 1884, at Paris, I was taken to her apartment by
+Mr. Henry F. Gillig, president of the American Exchange
+in Europe, and saw her and her husband the Marquis
+Giuliano Capranica del Grillo, just as they were preparing
+to leave the city for their trip to America. I remember
+that the rooms were encumbered with their baggage,
+which was in every stage of packing for their departure.
+The following winter 1884–5, when I was living at the
+Vendome Hotel, Boston, I called upon them at the Tremont
+House, and introduced to them Mr. C. C. Perkins,
+one of our citizens most prominent in music, art, literature,
+etc., who was very desirous of meeting the great tragedienne.
+He chatted with her in her native language, as
+he had long resided in Italy, and had written several
+books when there.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>La Diva, Café Napolitaine.</span><br> <span class='sc'>To My Mother from Paris, Nov. 15, 1866.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Charlie dropped in yesterday just before dinner,
+and we decided to start on the 24th, 25th, or
+26th, for Brussels, and then have a look at Waterloo;
+thence to Berlin to buy fur coats, and so to
+Russia. Went to the Italian opera last night and
+heard “<span lang="it">Crispino e la Camare</span>” (“The Cobbler and
+the Fairy.”) sung by dear little Patti. She has
+improved much since I saw her two or three years
+ago in America, and quite captivated me. I
+should make her acquaintance if I was to remain
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>long, as she prides herself on being American,
+and goes to Mrs. John Bigelow’s soirées. At the
+Café Napolitaine later a crowd of Boston men
+tumbled in. It is our favorite resort for smoking
+our nocturnal cigar,—George Weld, Ned Johnson,
+Bob Stevenson, and others. The great talk
+is the winter ocean race between three of the New
+York Club yachts, the <em>Henrietta</em> (owned by James
+Gordon Bennett, Jr.), <em>Fleetwing</em>, and <em>Vesta</em>. (The
+<em>Henrietta</em> with her owner on board won the race.)
+In that case the <em>Alice</em> will have to be put afloat
+again. Well, adieu for a week, and then my last
+from Paris.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Adelina Patti, now (1904) Baroness Cederstrom,
+was in Boston in 1885, and I happened to be
+introduced to her early in that year when I was
+living at the Vendome. She was with her second
+husband, Nicolini.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The New York Yacht Club.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>May 17, 1866, I was notified that at a meeting held that
+day I was admitted a member of the New York Yacht
+Club. The yacht <em>Henrietta</em>, owned by James Gordon
+Bennett Jr., belonged to the squadron. Bennett’s colors
+were a blue diamond and a red crescent on white ribbons.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I once had the pleasure of calling upon Mr. James Gordon
+Bennett Senior. It was one Sunday morning, in the
+spring of 1872, when I was on a visit to America. I was
+strolling up Fifth Avenue with Mr. Leonard W. Jerome.
+As we came to Mr. Bennett’s house on the corner of 38th
+street, he proposed that we should go in and pay a visit to
+the old gentleman, who was then very infirm and evidently
+destined not long to live. I was delighted at the opportunity
+of seeing him, for although I had stayed with his son
+at their fine place at Washington Heights, and often dined
+at the city mansion, I had never been able to be introduced
+to the father, as he was quite unwell, and generally confined
+to his room.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>We were shown up stairs to a small study, where Mr.
+Bennett was seated in a comfortable easy chair, in a loose
+dressing gown, with a quantity of the daily newspapers
+lying around him. We sat there conversing with him
+some time, and I remember his speaking of the proposed
+plan of rapid transit for New York, and how he had, years
+before, advocated the idea in his paper, the New York
+<cite>Herald</cite>. He spoke very strongly of the future growth of
+the city. It was only a few months after I saw him that
+he died.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Four-in-Hand Club.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Near Mr. Bennett’s place at Washington Heights and
+the Hudson River the Four-in Hand Club had a house for
+several years. I remember driving there for a ball the
+autumn of 1870, with Colonel William Jay and a party of
+ladies, and then returning through some of the unfinished
+roads, nearly upsetting on the way. The Club was started,
+as far as I can remember in 1866. I was elected a member
+January 20th of that year; the idea of membership being
+any one who had a “four-in-hand,” “spike,” or “unicorn,”—three
+horses, two in the pole and one on the lead,—“tandem,”
+i. e. something different from the ordinary
+single horse or pair hitch. I had a tandem at the time.
+The president was George Griswold Gray, whom I had
+known at Newport. The Club came to an end, but I cannot
+say what year. The Coaching or Four-in-Hand Club
+of New York has taken its place.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>James Gordon Bennett, Jr.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>My first recollection of meeting Mr. James Gordon Bennett
+Jr., was on the deck of his yacht <em>Henrietta</em>, at the
+spring meeting of the New York Yacht Club, June 19,
+1866.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I had been the guest, on his yacht, of Commodore McVickar
+(W. H. McVickar, one of the incorporators of the
+New York Yacht Club and its commodore in 1866. He
+died in New York, Nov. 25, 1896, aged 78.) when Mr.
+William C. Otis was fleet captain, and some time during
+the afternoon we paid a call upon the young captain of
+the <em>Henrietta</em>. This was in the harbor of New York, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>a very pretty scene it was. Later on, i. e. during the
+summer of 1870, on my return from Europe, where I had
+often seen Mr. Bennett in Paris at the Washington Club,
+he invited me to join a party on his new yacht the <em>Dauntless</em>
+at New London, and make the cruise from there to
+Newport, which I did.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We were a jolly party,—Lawrence Jerome, Harry
+Stanfield, A. W. Knapp and others. With reference to
+James Gordon Bennett Jr., in a letter from Newport to the
+Boston <cite>Globe</cite> in August 1876, I remarked:—“Newport
+certainly owes a great deal this year to the enterprise of
+Mr. James Gordon Bennett, in introducing the games of
+polo and la crosse, for the afternoon reunions at the polo
+grounds have become one of the most delightful features
+of the life here this summer, and Mr. Bennett has proved
+himself to be as much at home astride of his pony, as he
+was not many years ago on the deck of his yacht, when he
+gallantly offered his services to the government during the
+civil war, (He was with the blockading fleet in his yacht
+from 1861 to 1865.) or when he pluckily scudded across
+the Atlantic in mid-winter for the great ocean race.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1881 and 1882, I remember dining at his house, the
+old Brooks greystone mansion on Bellevue Avenue, Newport,
+where he entertained with generous hospitality, as
+also, at his New York home, Fifth Avenue corner of 38th
+street. He had a fine, old fashioned family butler, who
+seemed to take delight in looking after the comfort of his
+friends and guests. The last time I was in the New York
+house was at lunch with the Austin Corbins, who had then
+rented and afterwards purchased it. This was in 1886.
+Austin Corbin, financier and philanthropist was killed by
+being thrown from his carriage at his country place at
+Newport, N. H., in June, 1896, aged 69.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In Paris too, I would occasionally meet Mr. Bennett,
+and he generally made some enquiry about the Panama
+Canal.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Polo and Horse-Racing.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>What I have seen both of polo and horse-racing
+has made me consider them both, if not actually
+cruel sports for horses, at least those in which
+a great deal of unnecessary hard treatment is
+inflicted upon the poor animals who try to do
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>their best. In polo they seem to be jerked about
+indiscriminately, and whacked over the head and
+body by the polo mallets. In running races the
+use of the whip and spur is often an abomination.
+I have seen a horse straining his utmost and at
+the same time receiving the cruel blows of the
+whip in a way which might naturally discourage
+him from making his best efforts, but which in
+addition to this, by cramping his nerves and
+muscles, must actually keep him back instead
+of leading him on. Often, too, this is done to
+some horse so far behind that he can have
+no chance of winning the race. I believe horses
+are frequently demoralized and even made vicious
+from the senseless and inhuman treatment they
+receive. To get the best out of a horse you have
+only to encourage, not discourage him. He
+understands more than we give him credit for.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>My only experience as the owner of a race horse
+was during the spring of 1866, when I had bought
+a very pretty and graceful little animal, which
+had the name of “Carolina Filly.” She had been
+secured after the war by General Joseph J. Bartlett,
+who sold her to Mr. George W. Weld, from
+whom I bought her. She ran under my colors,
+blue and silver, once at Clyde Park, now the Country
+Club, but was not victorious.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Races on the Newport Beach.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>At 4.30 p. m. on the 30th of August, 1866, there
+was a flat race and steeple chase at Newport, at
+which 13 horses were entered, and an account of
+which appeared in the local press, as follows:—</p>
+
+<div id='i_031' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_031.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>GENTLEMEN RIDERS OF THE NEWPORT RACE</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Newport has really had another sensation, in fact has
+been convulsed to its “head” centre. (Allusion to Fenianism
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>then very rampant.) Yes, the old town has been
+startled by the spectacle of no less a modern invention
+than a hurdle race!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“Is Saratoga to do all the racing?” muttered the Newport
+Jockey Club, “Are there not greener laurels to be
+gathered in other fields? We have no track it is true, yet
+we can make tracks. Our horses have not received a
+university education, but what of that? <em>We</em> have. We
+will show them how to surmount difficulties. We will be
+our own jockeys, and risk our own gentlemanly lives. It
+shall be neck or nothing.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>So it was settled there should be a race, and for the past
+week Fashion has talked itself eloquent over the matter
+of hurdles. On Thursday the excitement culminated
+when Easton’s Beach, where Channing once drew inspiration,
+and where since, the lesser mortals have “drawn
+their slow length along” in the moist costume of the sea,
+found itself transformed into a race course, and its classic
+sands desecrated by the presence of hurdles!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One great charm of the affair was to be its selectness.
+Only you and I and our dear five hundred friends were to
+know anything about it. It was to be a <em><span lang="fr">bonne bouche</span></em> for
+our private eating. Yet, strange to say, five hundred
+people never can keep a secret, and the little family party
+turned out to be the largest concourse of bipeds and
+quadrupeds that Newport has seen for many a day.
+Fashion glittered and shone, respectable elderly parties
+fairly thrilled with excitement. Newport rich and Newport
+poor, stood side by side in every species of vehicle,
+from barouche to butcher’s wagon. (There were about
+7000 spectators and 500 carriages.) The way in which
+most of the horses shied around the hurdles, bolted and
+did everything but go over them, was delectable. Yet,
+let not the Jockey Club be disparaged. Considering the
+circumstances its gallant members covered themselves
+with glory,—a few of them were additionally covered
+with something of a more clinging nature. One daring
+rider (Nathan Appleton) landed on his head, another
+(Prince Ourousoff) mingled himself with the sands of the
+sea, but all lived to tell the short but moving tale, and the
+winner (Baron de Mesnil of Belgium) lived to receive a
+silver cup from the hands of the lady (Mrs. Paran Stevens)
+who had been most actively interested in the day’s sport.
+Thus does beauty reward the brave. In honor of the <em><span lang="fr">fait
+accompli</span></em> the Jockey Club will give a fête the beginning of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>next week. (Captain Harry Russell of Narragansett
+Avenue was declared winner of the second race, which was
+a steeple chase, the first one having been over a flat course
+of beach.) Pursuant to this announcement cards were
+issued by the Gentlemen Riders of the Newport Race,
+inviting their friends to the Jockeys’ Ball on Monday,
+September 3d, 1866, at the Academy of Music.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Ten Years Later. A Retrospect.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Speaking of horse races in a letter from Newport
+to the Boston <cite>Globe</cite>, under date of August
+26, 1876, I called to mind the events of ten years
+previous:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“We have only to look up the records of ten years ago,
+and we will find that then at least, perhaps even long
+before, they had taken place. Ah! It was a brilliant season,
+that of 1866. We were a jolly crowd, representing
+the <em><span lang="fr">jeunesse dorée</span></em> of many nations. There was a young
+Russian Prince, several Frenchmen,—one representative
+of the old <em>noblesse</em> and another of the Napoleonic regime,—a
+sturdy Belgian, and plenty of Americans, some fresh
+from the excitement of the war a year before. And we
+had races on the beach when many were the mishaps that
+befell the riders. One of them, needless to say who, had a
+hard-mouthed horse which he could not control, and so,
+near the finish, rushing up among the assembled crowd of
+carriages he distinguished himself by leaping clear over a
+pony-phaeton, in which were two young ladies, and then
+depositing himself half-stunned in the sand. The account
+of this may be found in the old files of the Newport <cite>News</cite>
+but a better souvenir of it still remains for those who took
+part, in the shape of a colored print now in the Country
+Club in Brookline, which was published by one of the
+riders, an Irish nobleman, Viscount Southwell, from his
+own sketch, in which he gives a fanciful representation of
+the great race for a cup presented by Mrs. Paran Stevens,
+the lady who then, as now (1876) presided so graciously
+over many of Newport’s hospitalities and festivities, and
+whose charming villa could tell many a tale of ‘vanished
+summer glory.’”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Race at Newport.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>The colored print of the race in the Country
+Club, by Viscount Southwell, represents the race
+as if it was on the turf instead of the sands of the
+beach, as was actually the case, but this was to
+make it more natural, as it was the only kind of
+race to which he was accustomed. In fact racing
+on the beach was a new departure, and I have
+heard it stated that this was the first one with
+“gentlemen riders” which had ever occurred, in
+the Northern States at least. He brought in on
+the slope of the hill leading down to the beach,
+the coach and four-in-hand of Hon. August Belmont,
+who had at that time the most correct
+equipages to be found in our country. Mr. Belmont
+in those days drove occasionally “en daumont,”
+i.e. four horses attached to an open
+barouche with <em><span lang="fr">postillons</span></em> dressed for summer in
+jackets, top boots and tall white hats, as you
+see them in Europe.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. G. G. Gray would at times bring out his
+open break with five horses, three at the wheel,
+then two, and one on the lead, a very fanciful and
+effective rig. I must not forget that at the Country
+Club there is also a satin programme of the
+race, with the names of the horses, their owners
+and riders, contributed by some other person.
+It makes the affair complete, and it is a valuable
+relic of those old days of gayety.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the summer of 1882, Mr. Ely Goddard had
+some marvellous turnouts. He had a fancy for
+horses of bay and white, like those you see in the
+circus, and often call “wishing horses,” and
+managed to drive them four-in-hand, unicorn,
+three abreast, tandem, a pair, or even one alone.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>It was really remarkable how he could find so
+many of these variegated animals to serve his
+purpose.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Washington Club.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>As far as I can remember, the Washington
+Club in Paris, to which I refer in my recollections
+of James Gordon Bennett Jr., was started in the
+winter of 1868 and ’69, the idea being to have it
+a purely American club, on the same principles
+as those in the United States. I was not one of
+the incorporators, but joined it shortly after it
+was organized, and May 8, 1869, was elected one
+of the board of direction.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I hardly know what to say of the Washington
+Club, so many souvenirs does it now recall. Mr.
+Willett, always known as “Bronnie” Willett,
+was the first secretary, and I succeeded him in
+the first year, 1869, and continued until 1872.
+Mr. W. Pembroke Fetridge and I were the two most
+active persons in bringing Americans there, and
+having them join as temporary or permanent
+members.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>While I held the position of secretary I kept
+the records very carefully, and one of the notes
+regarding membership I have now in my scrapbook
+from the pen of Mr. A. J. Drexel, of the
+banking house of Drexel, Harjes &#38; Co.:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>3 Rue Scribe, Paris.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>January 4, 1869</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Sir.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I am in receipt of the notification of my election to the
+“Washington Club.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>After authorizing Mr. Bowles to propose my name, upon
+reflecting that my stay here would be so short that it would
+be of no use to me to join, I concluded to ask him when I
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>saw him again, not to do so, and therefore prefer declining
+to become a member, altho’ the Club has my hearty
+sympathy.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Wishing, however, that one of our firm should become a
+member, I beg of you to propose the name of our Mr.
+Eugene Winthrop in my place. Hoping this substitution
+will be satisfactory to you</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>I remain very truly yours,</div>
+ <div class='line in12'>A. J. Drexel.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>N. Appleton, Esq.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The first apartment the Washington Club occupied
+was a good suite of rooms, well adapted to
+its uses at that time, belonging to Dr. Thomas
+W. Evans in the Rue Auber, which he offered to
+the Club free of rent. They were, however, too
+high up, on the third floor, and not quite large
+enough, and during the summer of 1869, it was
+decided to take an apartment at the corner of the
+old Rue de la Paix, by the opening, or rather
+the beginning of the Avenue de l’Opera, diagonally
+across from the Grand Hotel, the first
+floor over the <em>entresol</em>.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When I returned from Egypt and the opening
+of the Suez Canal, I wrote my sister in Boston,
+December 19th, 1869, “We Americans have just
+got into our new club rooms on the corner of the
+Boulevard, what was formerly the Rue de la Paix
+(Now Place de l’Opera), and a new street cut
+through to the Bourse. It is the finest situation
+in Paris, and we are in a most prosperous state,
+and begin to wonder how we ever got on without
+a club before.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It soon became popular in the American colony,
+and a rendezvous for the transient travellers.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Lorillard Spencer was the president, and
+Mr. J. F. Loubat the treasurer. I have preserved
+the receipt of my payment of 500 francs for membership.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>It is number 7, dated May 28, 1869,
+and signed by J. F. Loubat, who at the present
+time (1904) is le Duc de Loubat, a title he received
+from the Pope.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In New York, on September 28, 1873, he presented
+to me his book entitled “Narrative of the
+Mission to Russia in 1866, of the Hon. Gustavus
+Vasa Fox, Assistant Secretary of the Navy.
+From the Journal and Notes of J. F. Loubat.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Wm. Pembroke Fetridge, Mr. Alfred Lockwood,
+Mr. de la Chaise, Dr. “Tom” Pratt, Mr.
+Sheppard, Armand Voisin, the Lorillards, George
+and Louis, Elisha Riggs, John Garcia and Augustus
+Samanos, both Cubans, Lloyd Phœnix, James
+Gordon Bennett, and others, were active members
+of the Club. Indeed the membership included
+many noted and rich Americans, with the Minister,
+Consul General, and other officials of the
+U. S. Government, as honorary members.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At that time there was no restaurant, but reading
+and card rooms, a billiard table and bar, and
+plenty of American newspapers.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The rooms extended around the corner of the
+Boulevard des Italiens. When I returned to Paris
+about a week or ten days after the collapse of the
+Commune, in May, 1871, I was one of the first to
+look in upon the old club, and it was in many
+respects a scene of desolation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Versailles troops who came down the Rue
+Auber, found it right in their line of shooting, as
+they attacked the Communists, and many were
+the broken windows and glasses in the different
+rooms.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I picked up a lot of bullets, or found them in
+the walls, and, knowing how soon they would be
+lost or disappear, had them neatly arranged in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>a case under glass, to preserve them, an interesting
+relic of the Commune.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Several of us members of the club met there one
+afternoon, and were endeavoring in various ways
+to be reasonably gay under the circumstances,
+when one who was by his family partly related
+to France appeared, and thought it was all wrong
+for us to be so light-hearted in the day of France’s
+trouble. We said, on the contrary, that we
+thought we ought all to make the best of the situation,
+and so help retrieve the sadness of the past,
+and so we did.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The club still exists, and we old members have
+been given the privilege of life membership, so
+that we can avail ourselves of its rooms whenever
+we may happen to be in Paris. This adds much
+to the comfort of a sojourn there, as the table
+d’hôte breakfast at twelve, and dinner at seven,
+were as good as any to be had in Paris, while the
+view from the balcony is a perpetual delight.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have often been there since, but the club
+name has been changed to that of “Le Cercle
+Franco-Américain,” so as to admit persons of
+various nationalities.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>An interesting album of portraits of the prominent
+members, painted by Mr. Armand Dumaresq,
+was one of its attractions when I was there in
+1887. Mine was very good, and under my name
+I had written “le Champion de Panama.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The autumn of 1894, part of September, all of
+October, and part of November, I passed in Paris,
+to find out what the new Panama Canal Company
+proposed to do, and also to place the bronze
+marker of the Society of the Sons of the American
+Revolution by the grave of Lafayette in Picpus
+Cemetery, Paris. While there I noticed the apartment
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>of the Franco-American Club was closed,
+and was told how it happened to be so, but that
+the members could go to the “Cercle des Capucines”
+nearly opposite, on the other side of the
+boulevard of that name. I went there one afternoon,
+and sent up my card, and was cordially
+received by my old friend, William Pembroke
+Fetridge, Lynch, Davis, and others, and Fetridge
+invited me to dine with some of them which I did.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Sunday, November 18, 1866.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“I have received this last week your nice letter
+of October 30. I read it to Longfellow, and he
+was pleased to hear so much of Charlie. He
+says, ‘Do caution the boys to guard their ears
+and noses in going to Russia. They are frozen
+before one is aware of it, and once thoroughly
+chilled you never recover from the effects.’</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Monday evening: I have been to Cambridge
+again today. Your ‘Brother Henry’ (Longfellow)
+has seen a Russian gentleman who tells him
+November is too early in the season to go there.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother from Paris, November 21, 1866.</span></h3>
+
+<div id='i_038' class='c004 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_038.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>TROIKA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>This is my last from Paris for some time. I
+tear myself from the distractions and gayeties,
+from the Bois and the dance, to meet the frantic
+embrace of the Russian bear. I am quite crazy
+about the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg trip, my anticipations
+are so high, and we long so to be off, and every night
+I fall asleep dreaming of driving troikas with
+three horses about the streets of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg
+and Moscow, skating the American touch on the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>Neva, endless flirtations with Russian Princesses
+and Polish Countesses in the salons and boudoirs
+of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. All this, too, is a <em><span lang="fr">terra incognita</span></em>,
+and our life is not all cut and dried for us,
+as in Rome or Paris. My plan is this,—to pass
+the winter just where it will be agreeable, <abbr title='Saint Petersburg'>St. P.</abbr>,
+Moscow, or Vienna, or perhaps a trip to Greece
+and Constantinople, with the Carnival in Venice,
+but <em>certainly</em> return to Paris in April for the Exposition,
+and London for the season, and then to
+America early in the summer. However, if you
+want me to come, if you feel nervous or unwell,
+don’t hesitate a moment to write me, and I can
+easily and without regret turn about. On Saturday,
+at five, I leave Burgess alone, much to his
+regret, and Charlie and self go to Brussels, where
+we arrive just exactly in time for the “revelry
+by night,” a peep at Waterloo, if not too cold,
+and then on to Berlin to congratulate Bismarck
+on the state of Europe, through Poland to Russia,
+a journey of a few days only. You will be
+pleased to know that I have not yet lost your
+little package for Eliza Carnatz, and I doubt not
+that it will reach her in safety. On Friday I
+dine at the T. B. Curtis’s, and on Wednesday with
+Weld and a lot of men at “Philippe’s.” Have
+you ever heard about my horses, if they are well?
+I trust they will do the winter comfortably.
+Don’t you want me to bring you home a nice little
+French “Victoria” this summer, instead of the
+old family ark? (The old family carriage imported
+by my uncle Samuel Appleton and after his death,
+in 1853, taken by my father.) As to the Bois, I
+can safely say that if I had my Boston turnout
+here complete there would not be a prettier one
+in Paris.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>Thursday: I am reading now with my French
+teacher, Théophile Gautier’s <cite>Voyage en Russie</cite>,
+and find it most entertaining and instructive,
+particularly as he gives a <em><span lang="fr">couleur de rose</span></em> account
+of the winter amusements.... I take up my
+pen for the third time to finish this, but you know
+there is never the least opportunity of doing anything
+in Paris, or even of finishing what is begun,
+and except my weekly letters to you I have
+scarcely written at all. My groom has just been
+amusing himself with packing up some of my
+traps, as I have one good sized trunk to leave in
+Paris full of summer clothes, which I don’t think
+I shall want, and odds and ends I have picked
+up here.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Received an invitation yesterday from the
+Bishop of Pennsylvania, to confer with him on
+matters of importance for the church in Paris.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Adieu to Paris.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Today is dull and dreary out, but except for
+the Bois it makes little difference in P.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I leave my phaeton, etc., at the Bank. I am
+going to try to find William Hunt, the artist,
+today. Well, I close and take this to the mail.
+Adieu to Paris and <em><span lang="fr">mes beaux jours—en route</span></em>!—Russia
+and the North! Love to all.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>William Morris Hunt.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>While he lived I regarded William M. Hunt
+as the first American artist, certainly in the line
+of portrait painting. I wanted for a long time
+to possess one of his pictures, and I would have
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>liked to have had him paint my own portrait,
+but I never had the opportunity of doing so.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One day in 1866, just before he was to sail for
+Europe, I went to his studio, and after some talk
+with him, he said he would let me have the head
+of Lincoln, which he had painted as a study for
+the full length portrait now in Faneuil Hall, for
+eight hundred dollars, currency. I agreed to purchase
+it and the bargain was made. He told
+me that he wanted to take it with him to Paris,
+that he might exhibit it at the great Exhibition
+of 1867, and I was pleased at this, and readily
+acceded to it, as I thought the portrait would
+have an additional interest and value from having
+been there. It was understood that I should not
+pay for the picture until it was delivered to me,
+and a bill of sale was made out to this effect. I
+afterwards saw the portrait both at Mr. Hunt’s
+studio at Paris, and also in the American department
+of the Exhibition, where it attracted considerable
+attention, and I gave myself no concern
+as to when I should own it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It so happened that the painting never came
+into my possession before my financial troubles
+in 1872, and after that, of course, I no longer
+thought of having it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>After his death by drowning (He was found
+dead in the water.) at Appledore, Isles of Shoals,
+N. H., Sept. 8, 1879, his widow, the late Mrs.
+Louisa D. Hunt, was very disinclined to part
+with it, and so I never pressed my claim. According
+to a provision in her will a large number of his
+paintings and charcoal drawings were sold at public
+auction and the Lincoln portrait was reserved at
+the sale in February, 1898, at the request of the
+Government. Mr. Hunt was a curious man, brilliant,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>full of eccentricities, and very fascinating
+in certain moods. His age was only fifty-five
+when he died.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Regarding the portrait I received the following
+note, dated May 5, 1866:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Appleton,</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>If you would like my portrait of President Lincoln you
+will please let me know or Mr. Jere. Abbott. My price for
+it is $800. I should like the privilege of taking it to England
+with me, and will return it to you in a few months in
+case you desire it.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Yours truly,</div>
+ <div class='line in16'>Wm. M. Hunt,</div>
+ <div class='line in20'>16 Summer <abbr title='Street'>St.</abbr></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>In care of Abbott &#38; Howard, Kilby <abbr title='Street'>St.</abbr>, Boston.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>There was at the time I refer to, 1865–1866
+(It was on the list at the sale.), a beautiful landscape
+of the Forest of Fontainebleau I ought to
+have bought, but did not. I once had in my
+collection of paintings one which had belonged
+to my brother, T. G. A., a small picture, with a
+church in the background, and in the foreground
+several sheaves of wheat, and peasants returning
+to their houses from the field, with the light of a
+setting sun. It had the touch and the glow of
+the master.</p>
+
+<div id='i_043' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_043.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>ABRAHAM LINCOLN.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SECOND<br> <span class='c010'><span class='sc'>Lincoln and Emancipation</span></span></h2>
+</div>
+<h3 class='c014'>ABRAHAM LINCOLN</h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in4'>“All merit comes</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>From braving the unequal:</div>
+ <div class='line'>All glory comes from daring to begin:</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Fame loves the state</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That, reckless of the sequel,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Fights long and well, whether it lose or win.”</div>
+ <div class='line in26'>—<em>Eugene F. Ware</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have always regretted that I never had the
+privilege of making the acquaintance of President
+Lincoln. I remember having met him one summer
+at Washington during the war, as he was driving
+to the Soldiers’ Home,—a few miles out of the
+city where he passed the hot season,—in an open
+carriage with an escort of cavalry, which was a rare
+sight for a President of the United States, until the
+requirements of war and the treasonable elements
+which pervaded society in Washington seemed to
+make such a precaution advisable. This was civil
+war with its unseen dangers in the nation’s capital.
+I can just remember his sad face, which appeared
+full of the responsibilities of the situation, as he
+drove along.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Lincoln and Emancipation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The antislavery movement in the United States,
+began in the mountains of the South by Benjamin
+Lundy, of Wheeling, West Virginia. He published
+a paper called “The Genius of Universal
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>Emancipation,” first at Mount Pleasant, Ohio,
+afterwards at Jonesville, East Tennessee, and in
+1824, he removed it to Baltimore, Md.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1825, Miss Frances Wright, a youthful and
+enthusiastic philanthropist, established ten miles
+east of Memphis, Tenn., a manual training school,
+in which each negro was to be freed as soon as he
+proved himself capable of self support. She was a
+friend of Lafayette, who was keenly interested in
+the plan, but it failed, and she took her slaves to
+Hayti, where she settled them on land granted by
+the Haitian government, freed them, and left them
+there.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>All this was before the organization of the New
+England Antislavery Society, which was formed in
+1832, by William Lloyd Garrison, returning from
+Baltimore where he had been associated with
+Lundy.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On December 6, 1847, Abraham Lincoln took his
+seat in the Thirtieth Congress as a member from the
+state of Illinois. He was thirty-eight years of age,
+and six feet four inches in height. His character
+and principles are thus briefly and truthfully
+described by J. G. Holland, in reviewing his public
+career:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“He introduced them to a new national life. He
+has given them a statesman without a statesman’s
+craftiness, a politician without a politician’s meannesses,
+a great man without a great man’s vices, a
+philanthropist without a philanthropist’s impracticable
+dreams, a Christian without pretensions,
+a ruler without the pride of place and power, an
+ambitious man without selfishness, and a successful
+man without vanity.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>His position in the Thirtieth Congress on all the
+principal points at issue were of the Whig party,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>and in the second session he began his work for the
+abolishment of slavery in the District of Columbia
+in which the national capital is situated, by introducing
+on the 16th of January, 1849, a measure
+which he intended as a substitute for a resolution
+introduced by Mr. Gott of New York, instructing
+the Committee of the District of Columbia to report
+a bill prohibiting the slave trade in the District.
+Mr. Lincoln’s substitute provided that no person
+not within the District, and no person thereafter
+born within the District should be held to slavery
+within the District, or held to slavery without its
+limits, while it provided that those holding slaves
+in the slave states might bring them in and take
+them out again when visiting the District on public
+business. It also provided for the emancipation of
+all the slaves legally held within the District, at
+the will of their masters, who could claim their full
+value at the hands of the Government, and that
+the act itself should be subject to the approval of
+the voters of the District. It had also a proviso
+to restore to their owners all fugitive slaves escaping
+into the District.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Lincoln regarded slavery as property under
+the Constitution. Legally he believed slavery to
+be right, morally he believed it to be wrong.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On the presentation of this bill Mr. Lincoln had
+a considerable number of influential supporters in
+the District, but they subsequently withdrew, and
+the subject was given up, to be revived again, under
+circumstances impossible to be foretold, thirteen
+years after.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Speaking in 1859, on the slave power, he said:—“Broken
+by it, I, too, may be, bow to it I never
+will. The probability that we may fail in the
+struggle, ought not to deter us from the support of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>a cause which I deem to be just, and it shall not
+deter me. If ever I feel the soul within me elevate
+and expand to those dimensions not wholly
+unworthy of its Almighty Architect, it is when I
+contemplate the cause of my country, deserted by
+all the world besides, and I, standing up boldly and
+alone, and hurling defiance at her victorious oppressors.
+Here, without contemplating consequences,
+before high Heaven, and in the face of the world, I
+swear eternal fidelity to the just cause, as I deem it,
+of the land of my life, my liberty, and my love.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On March 4th, 1861, Mr. Lincoln was inaugurated
+President of the United States, and several of the
+slaveholding states rebelled against the authority
+of the National Government, passed ordinances of
+secession, and with other states joined to them
+attempted to gain possession of the national capital,
+thereby bringing on the great war of 1861, which
+lasted four years, and ended in the preservation of
+the Union and the re-establishment of the national
+authority over every state and territory.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the effort to reclaim the recalcitrant states
+and restore peace to the country, every expedient
+was used, and when, by proclamation of President
+Lincoln, Congress assembled in extra session on the
+Fourth of July, 1861, Mr. Trumbull of Illinois
+introduced a bill in the Senate to emancipate all
+the slaves in the rebel states.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At that time one-eighth of the whole population
+of the United States were colored slaves, located in
+the southern portion. They had been held in
+slavery two hundred and fifty years, having originally,
+and as required thereafter, been brought to
+this country in slave ships principally from the
+coast of Africa and the brisk and remunerative
+traffic still continued. The extra session closed on
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>August 6, 1861, having lasted but little more than
+a month. In the meantime Major General John
+C. Fremont having been placed in command of the
+Department of the West, with headquarters at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+Louis, on the 25th of July, 1861, contemplating the
+restoration of order in Missouri, and the reclaiming
+of the control of the Mississippi River, proclaimed
+martial law, declared the property of all those who
+should take up arms against the United States
+confiscated to the public use, and their slaves, if
+they had any, were declared free men. In other
+words, he proclaimed freedom to the slaves of
+rebels, but, fearing that this would alarm Unionists
+in the South, Mr. Lincoln desired General Fremont,
+as of his own motion, so to modify his proclamation
+as to make this freedom apply only to such slaves
+as were engaged in the rebel service.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>General Fremont had taken this step without
+consultation or notice. The President wished him
+to conform to a confiscation act passed by Congress,
+but Fremont wished the President to order the
+change desired, as, if he should do it of his own
+motion, it would imply that he thought himself
+wrong, stating the difficulties under which he
+labored, with the communication with the government
+so difficult and the development of perplexing
+events so rapid in the department under his command.
+This the President did in a despatch under
+date of September 11, 1861, in these words:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“It is therefore ordered, that the said clause of said proclamation
+be so modified, held and construed, as to conform
+to, and not to transcend the provisions on the same
+subject contained in the Act of Congress entitled ‘An Act
+to Confiscate Property’&#160;... approved August 6,
+1861, and that such act be published at length with this
+order.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>Before this order had been received, or on the
+day following its date, General Fremont, though
+acquainted with the President’s wishes, manumitted
+two slaves of Thomas L. Snead of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Louis,
+in accordance with the terms of his proclamation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Lincoln believed that the time had not come for
+the liberating the slaves of rebels by proclamation,
+if he had, the Act of Congress would not have stood
+in the way. The Act was the embodiment of his
+own policy at that time. He had undertaken to
+preserve the Union and the rights of all the states.
+A record was to be kept of the slaves of loyal
+masters, and for their repayment for them Congress
+would provide. Slavery could only be interfered
+with as a military necessity, an essential means of
+saving the Union. He was assailed on the one side
+for being too slow, and on the other for being too
+precipitate.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In March, 1862, the following resolution recommended
+by President Lincoln passed both houses
+of Congress, only a few members of the border
+states voting for it:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Resolved, That the United States ought to coöperate
+with any state which may gradually adopt abolishment
+of slavery, giving to such state pecuniary aid, to be used
+by such state in its discretion, to compensate for inconveniences,
+public and private, produced by such change
+of system.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>Before the close of the session the President
+invited the senators and representatives of the
+slaveholding states not in rebellion, to a conference
+at the White House, at which he admonished them
+that if they had all voted for the resolution the war
+would then have been substantially ended.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>“If the war,” said he, “continues long, as it must
+if the object be not sooner attained (i. e. the restoration
+of the Union without disturbance of the
+institution of slavery) the institution in your states
+will be extinguished by mere friction and abrasion—by
+the mere incidents of the war. It will be
+gone, and you will have nothing in lieu of it.
+Much of its value is gone already. How much
+better for you and for your people to take the step
+which at once shortens the war, and secures substantial
+compensation for that which is sure to be
+wholly lost in any other event.... I do not
+speak of emancipation at once, but of a decision at
+once, to emancipate gradually. Room in South
+America for colonization can be obtained cheaply,
+and in abundance, and when numbers shall be large
+enough to be company and encouragement for one
+another, the freed people will not be so reluctant
+to go.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The time for the voluntary abolishment of the
+slave system was at any date previous to 1900.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In this session slavery was abolished in the
+District of Columbia, completing the work begun
+in 1849, and recognizing the two principles of
+colonization and compensation. This session also
+passed the confiscation act by which the traitor to
+the general government forfeited his slaves, as well
+as any other property, and Congress decided in
+advance, that the slaves thus confiscated and held
+by the government should be declared free.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Then the public at the north, these measures
+having been enacted, demanded a sweeping proclamation
+of emancipation. The antislavery element
+clamored for swifter and more radical recognition,
+aroused and sustained by the eloquence of
+the spoken and written word.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>These were the clarion notes of Whittier’s
+“Voices of Freedom”:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“If we have whispered truth</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Whisper no longer:</div>
+ <div class='line'>Speak as the tempest does,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Sterner and stronger.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Still be the tones of truth</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Louder and firmer:</div>
+ <div class='line'>Startling the haughty South</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>With the deep murmur.”</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>To which the President made reply:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“What I do about slavery and the colored race,
+I do because I believe it helps to save this Union,
+and what I forbear, I forbear because I do not
+believe it could help to save the Union.... I
+intend no modification of my oft-expressed personal
+wish that all men everywhere could be free.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>He understood that his oath of office stood in the
+way of the present accomplishment of that wish,
+but that for the preservation of the Constitution
+and the Union measures otherwise unconstitutional
+might become lawful. That to preserve
+slavery he could not permit the wreck of government,
+country and constitution all together. He
+objected to General Fremont’s order of emancipation
+because he did not then consider it a necessity.
+He objected to the arming of the blacks, as suggested
+by the Secretary of War, Simon Cameron,
+for the same reason; also to an attempt by General
+David A. Hunter for a military emancipation,
+believing as he did in compensated emancipation.
+But the border states, toward whom he had fulfilled
+his whole duty, turned a deaf ear to his
+expostulations, and by this attitude relieved him of
+further responsibility toward them.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Colonization.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>Congress placed at the President’s disposal a sum
+of money to be used for experiments with the
+colonization of the blacks, his choice of location
+being the Spanish American republics of Central
+and South America. In August, 1862, he invited
+a representative company of negroes to visit the
+White House and address him on the subject; the
+President asserting his conviction that both the
+whites and negroes would suffer by living in association
+with each other. He offered them the benefit
+of the fund intrusted to him for the purposes of
+colonization. But the Spanish American republics
+protested against black colonies in their midst.
+Liberia and Hayti only would receive them, and
+the blacks were not disposed to emigrate to those
+countries, and so that project faded as all such
+projects have failed in relation to sending the
+colored population out of the country. The President’s
+plan was one of benevolent solicitude for a
+race which he hoped to make self-reliant and
+independent.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>And it came to pass, that in the midsummer of
+1862, President Lincoln called a meeting of his
+Cabinet and laid before them a draft of a proclamation
+of emancipation, which involved the freedom
+of all human beings held in slavery in the United
+States, amounting to four millions then living, and
+affecting untold millions then unborn, and revolutionizing
+the social status of more than a third part
+of the nation, but the Secretary of State, William
+H. Seward, while approving of the proclamation,
+opposed its issue at that time, immediately after so
+many reverses, and advised its postponement until
+it should have some military success to support it,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>that it should not have the appearance of an appeal
+for help. So the proclamation waited until the
+invasion of Maryland brought on the battle of
+Antietam resulting in the victory won by McClellan,
+when Mr. Lincoln brought forward his second
+draft of the instrument,—even then a preliminary
+proclamation,—which was issued on the 22d of
+September, 1862, the battle having been fought on
+the 17th; Mr. Lincoln being reported as saying that
+he made a resolve that when McClellan should drive
+Lee over the river he would send the proclamation
+after him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This proclamation declared free the slaves of
+those states, and those sections of states, which
+should be in rebellion on the 1st of January, 1863,
+thus affording an opportunity for all rebel states
+which wished to preserve their ownership of slaves,
+to do so by returning to their allegiance to the
+Federal Government.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>September 24, 1862, the President issued a proclamation
+suspending the writ of <em>habeas corpus</em>, as
+the ordinary processes of law were not sufficient to
+restrain disloyal persons from hindering the execution
+of a draft of militia, which had been ordered,
+and from giving aid and comfort to the insurrection.
+This suspension lasted for two months, or until the
+22d of November, 1862, and persons held in military
+custody were released on parole.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On the 1st of January, 1863, the final proclamation
+of emancipation was issued. It was as
+follows:—</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Proclamation of Emancipation.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Whereas, on the twenty-second of September, in the
+year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two,
+a proclamation was issued by the President of the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span>United States, containing, among other things, the following,
+to wit:</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“That on the first day of January, in the year of our
+Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all
+persons held as slaves within any state, or designated part
+of a state, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion
+against the United States, shall be then, thenceforward
+and forever free, and the executive government of the
+United States, including the military and naval authority
+thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of such
+persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such persons,
+or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their
+actual freedom. That the Executive will, on the first day
+of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the
+states and parts of states, if any, in which the people
+thereof respectively shall then be in rebellion against the
+United States; and the fact that any state or the people
+thereof shall on that day be in good faith represented in
+the Congress of the United States by members chosen
+thereto at elections wherein a majority of the qualified
+voters of such state shall have participated, shall, in the
+absence of strong countervailing testimony, be deemed
+conclusive evidence that such state, and the people thereof,
+are not then in rebellion against the United States.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, President of the
+United States, by virtue of the power in me vested as
+Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Navy of the United
+States in time of actual armed rebellion against the authority
+and government of the United States, and as a fit and
+necessary war measure for suppressing said rebellion, do,
+on this first day of January, in the year of our Lord one
+thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, and in accordance
+with my purpose so to do, publicly proclaimed for the full
+period of one hundred days from the day first above
+mentioned, order and designate, as the states and parts of
+states wherein the people thereof respectively are this day
+in rebellion against the United States, the following, to
+wit:</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana (except the parishes of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+Bernard, Plaquemine, Jefferson, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> John, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Charles, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+James, Ascension, Assumption, Terre Bonne, Lafourche,
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Marie, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Martin and Orleans, including the city of
+New Orleans), Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia,
+South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia (except the
+forty-eight counties designated as West Virginia, and also
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span>the counties of Berkely, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth
+City, York, Princess Anne, and Norfolk, including
+the cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth, and which excepted
+parts are for the present left precisely as if this proclamation
+were not issued).</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>And, by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid,
+I do order and declare that all persons held as slaves
+within said designated states and parts of states, are,
+and henceforward shall be free, and that the Executive
+Government of the United States, including the military
+and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain
+the freedom of said persons.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be
+free, to abstain from all violence, unless in necessary self-defence,
+and I recommend to them that in all cases, when
+allowed, they labor faithfully for reasonable wages.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>And I further declare and make known that such persons
+of suitable condition will be received into the armed service
+of the United States to garrison forts, positions,
+stations and other places, and to man vessels of all sorts in
+said service. And upon this act, sincerely believed to be
+an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon
+military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of
+mankind, and the gracious favor of Almighty God.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my name, and
+caused the seal of the United States to be affixed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Done at the City of Washington, this first day of January,
+in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
+and sixty-three and of the</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>[<span class='fss'>L. S.</span>] Independence of the United States the</div>
+ <div class='line in12'>eighty-seventh,</div>
+ <div class='line in40'>Abraham Lincoln.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in8'>By the President.</div>
+ <div class='line'>William H. Seward, <em>Secretary of State</em>.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the cabinet meeting to which the preliminary
+proclamation was submitted, by request of Mr.
+Seward the words “and maintain” were inserted
+after “recognize” in the third paragraph of that
+document in the second paragraph of the final
+proclamation, the President in his wisdom, having
+omitted the words, as it was not his way to promise
+more than he was sure he could perform, and he was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>not prepared to say that he thought he was able to
+maintain this. Thus the story is told on the best
+authority.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Another paragraph is said to have been written
+by the Secretary of the Treasury, Salmon P. Chase,
+who had prepared a proclamation from which the
+President only selected the sentence beginning
+“And upon this Act,” and ending with “Almighty
+God,” with the exception of the word “sincerely”
+and the phrase “upon military necessity” which
+are the President’s own. It is said that Mr. Lincoln
+voluntarily revealed the authorship of the
+words attributed to Seward and Chase.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Slaves Still Held in Loyal States.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>By this proclamation of emancipation the loyal
+slave states were allowed to retain the institution
+of slavery, which was secured to them by the Constitution,
+and in order to reach them certain articles
+of amendment to the Constitution of the United
+States must be acted upon by the legislatures of
+the several states, three-fourths of the number of
+which would make the articles valid. No servile
+insurrection or tendency to violence marked the
+execution of the provisions of the proclamation
+relative to the arming of the negroes.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At the session of Congress beginning in December,
+1863, the Fugitive Slave Law was repealed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At the national Republican convention which
+met at Baltimore, June 8, 1864, and nominated
+Lincoln for re-election, one of the resolutions
+advocated a constitutional amendment abolishing
+slavery. Another declared that the government
+owed protection to all its soldiers, without distinction
+of color, and at the session of congress which
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>opened the following December, an amendment to
+the Constitution was passed abolishing slavery in
+all the states. It needed now to be adopted by the
+vote of the states, and the necessity was pressing,
+for in order to place in their hands a weapon of self-defence
+against re-enslavement the negroes must
+be given the right to vote.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Constitution of the United States. Fourteenth Amendment.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Article XIV. Section 1. All persons born or naturalized
+in the United States, and subject to the jurisdiction thereof
+are citizens of the United States and of the state wherein
+they reside. No state shall make or enforce any law
+which shall abridge the privileges or immunities of citizens
+of the United States; nor shall any state deprive any person
+of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law, nor
+deny to any person within its jurisdiction the equal protection
+of the laws.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Section 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among
+the several states according to their respective numbers,
+counting the whole number of persons in each state,
+excluding Indians not taxed. But when the right to vote
+at any election for the choice of electors for president
+and vice-president of the United States, representatives
+in Congress, the executive and judicial officers of a state, or
+the members of the legislature thereof, is denied to any
+of the male inhabitants of such state, being twenty-one
+years of age, and citizens of the United States, or in any
+way abridged, except for participation in rebellion or other
+crime, the basis of representation therein shall be reduced
+in the proportion which the number of such male citizens
+shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one
+years of age in such state.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Section 3. No person shall be a senator, or representative
+in congress, or elector of president, or vice-president,
+or hold any office, civil or military, under the United States,
+or under any state, who, having previously taken an oath,
+as a member of congress, or as an officer of the United
+States, or as a member of any state legislature, or as an
+executive or judicial officer of any state, to support the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>constitution of the United States, shall have engaged in
+insurrection or rebellion against the same, or given aid or
+comfort to the enemies thereof. But congress may, by a
+vote of two-thirds of each house, remove such disability.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Section 4. The validity of the public debt of the United
+States, authorized by law, including debts incurred for
+payment of pensions and bounties for services in suppressing
+insurrection or rebellion, shall not be questioned.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>But neither the United States, nor any state, shall
+assume or pay any debt or obligation incurred in aid of
+insurrection or rebellion against the United States, or any
+claim for the loss or emancipation of any slave; but all
+such debts, obligations and claims shall be held illegal and
+void.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Section 5. The congress shall have power to enforce,
+by appropriate legislation, the provisions of this article.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Fourteenth Amendment was proposed to
+the legislatures of the several states by the thirty-ninth
+congress on June 16, 1866, and after delay
+caused by withdrawals of ratifications and of rejections
+of ratifications by many of the states, on July
+28, 1868, it was announced by the Secretary of
+State that it had become valid to all intents and
+purposes, as a part of the Constitution of the
+United States.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Constitution of the United States. Fifteenth Amendment.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>Article XV. Sect. 1. The right of citizens of the United
+States to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United
+States, or by any state, on account of race, color, or previous
+condition of servitude.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Section 2. The congress shall have power to enforce
+this article by appropriate legislation.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The fifteenth amendment was proposed to the
+legislatures of the several states by the fortieth
+Congress on February 27, 1869, and was declared,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>in a proclamation of the Secretary of State, dated
+March 30, 1870, to have been ratified by the constitutional
+number of states, and to have “become
+valid to all intents and purposes as part of the
+Constitution of the United States.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>After Emancipation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The history of the war shows that one hundred
+and seventy-eight thousand nine hundred and
+seventy-five negroes, took part either in the army
+or the navy of the United States, and the losses these
+troops sustained from sickness, wounds, killed in
+battle and other casualties incident to war, were
+sixty-eight thousand one hundred and seventy-eight.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The war was over in the spring of 1865. Then
+came the reconstruction period, and in 1876, the
+Democratic party, most influential in the Southern
+States, unqualifiedly accepted in its national platform
+all the results of the war, including the war
+amendments to the Constitution.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yet, while the race progressed with marvellous
+rapidity through educational facilities eagerly
+sought for, and secured to them from private and
+public sources, the condition of the freed slaves and
+their descendants has not improved so materially as
+was anticipated.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>President Lincoln’s solicitude has not been
+proven false or exaggerated, “both the whites and
+negroes” <em>have</em> suffered “by living in association
+with each other.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The tendency is to divide the whites from the
+blacks, the whites avoiding those sections where
+the races are placed on an equality in labor. The
+large plantations are being let out to colored tenants
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>while the landlord seeks a more congenial environment
+in the cities, the poor whites seeking occupation
+in the manufacturing industries which have
+arisen and are being developed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is asserted that the number of counties in the
+South in which the negroes outnumber the whites,
+counties containing the best cotton, tobacco, rice
+and sugar lands, has risen from 237 in 1860, to 279
+in 1900, and that within these counties there are, on
+the average, 130 negroes to every 100 whites, and
+that in 1860, there were 71 counties in which the
+negroes were more than twice as numerous as the
+whites, which number in 1900, had increased to
+108, and 92 per cent of the colored race is found in
+the states which were in rebellion in 1861.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Notwithstanding the investment with citizenship
+which was supposed to remove from the slave the
+disqualification of having no standing in court,
+from the time of emancipation to the present, negro
+lynchings in the southern and western portions of
+the United States have shocked the civilized world
+by their frequency and cruelty; victims of both
+sexes having been burnt at the stake without any
+pretense of a form of trial, while local juries were
+unwilling to indict or condemn those who thus transgressed
+constitutional law.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Fourteenth Amendment has been virtually
+annulled, and the white vote is apportioned on a
+fictitious representation, and based upon a black
+majority.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Measures, more or less disguised as to their purpose,
+have been passed by several southern states,
+tending to disfranchise the negroes, showing an
+inclination to gradually return to former conditions,
+until they have once more assumed their original
+bold attitude, and in the Fifty-eighth Congress,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>which assembled December 7, 1903, notice was
+given that the United States Senator from Tennessee
+would introduce a bill for the repeal of the Fifteenth
+Amendment, “with a view to a permanent
+solution of the vexing negro question, by eliminating
+the enfranchised negro as a political factor.”
+It was said that the Senator would be supported by
+every Southern member in Congress, and not a few
+members of other sections of the Union. An ex-governor
+of Virginia was quoted as saying in New
+York, that there is only one solution, and that is
+that the Nation must recede from its position on
+negro suffrage, and plans to that effect have been
+announced in several southern states.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>An Appeal to the Country.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>On their own behalf, in a mass meeting held in
+Boston, November 7, 1903, forty years after Emancipation,
+and three years after the outside limit of
+time, 1900, set in the resolution recommending the
+co-operation of the Federal Government in the
+gradual abolishment of slavery, with compensation,
+passed in March, 1862, the following appeal, involving
+the rights of 10,000,000 colored people of the
+United States, was addressed to the country by the
+Boston Negro Suffrage League:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“We appeal to the conscience of the country to rally to
+our help, to restore to us rights bought by us with a great
+price, the price of nearly three centuries of faithful service
+and of blood shed by us in four wars. We appeal to the
+American people in their strength, to have regard for us
+in our weakness, and to grant us fair play and equal
+opportunities with others, to make the most and the best
+of ourselves in their midst. We call upon a Christian
+nation to treat us as fellow Christians, as human beings.
+We implore a boastfully free republic to save us from
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span>re-enslavement, to mete out to us even-handed justice,
+and to throw over us everywhere the impartial protection
+of her laws and Constitution.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Death of Lincoln.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“So he grew up, a destined work to do,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And lived to do it: four long-suffering years.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Ill-fate, ill-feeling, ill-report, lived through,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And then he heard the hisses changed to cheers,</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>The taunts to tribute, the abuse to praise,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And took both with the same unwavering mood:</div>
+ <div class='line'>Till, as he came on light, from darkling days,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And seemed to touch the goal from where he stood,</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A felon hand, between the goal and him,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Reached from behind his back, a trigger prest—</div>
+ <div class='line'>And those perplexed and patient eyes were dim,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Those gaunt, long-laboring limbs were laid to rest.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>The Old World and the New, from sea to sea,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Utter one voice of sympathy and shame!</div>
+ <div class='line'>Sore heart, so stopped when it at last beat high,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Sad life, cut short just as its triumph came.”</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>—<cite>London Punch</cite>, May 6, 1865.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Re-elected President of the United States for
+another term of four years, and having seen the
+termination of the war, Abraham Lincoln died in
+Washington by the hand of an assassin. He was
+shot by J. Wilkes Booth, a member of a family of
+actors, in a private box of Ford’s Theatre, a few
+minutes past ten o’clock on the evening of April 14,
+1865, and was carried across the street to a private
+house, 516 Tenth Street, where he died at 7.22 the
+next morning without recovering consciousness.
+Reverent and devout by nature, his utterances had
+often impressed the people with a sense of his own
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>firm reliance on the Divine arm. “I have been
+driven many times to my knees,” he once remarked,
+“by the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere
+else to go. My own wisdom and that of all
+about me seemed insufficient for that day.” So
+when the bewildering news of his death burst upon
+the world, that was the characteristic most forcibly
+brought to mind, and “God lives” was the chosen
+message flashed over the wires from a high state
+official to quell the tumult of indignation which
+thrilled every corner of the great Republic. At his
+obsequies the funeral procession was so long that the
+head of it had begun to disperse at the Capitol, before
+the rear had passed the Treasury Department
+on its way from the Executive Mansion.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At the cemetery in Springfield, Illinois, where he
+was buried May 4, 1865, the procession being under
+the immediate charge of Major General Joseph
+Hooker, Bishop Simpson quoted his words spoken
+in relation to the slave power, in 1859, beginning
+“Broken by it, I, too, may be, bow to it I never
+will.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Personal Recollections.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>On the evening of April 16th, just before sunset,
+when the news of the assassination came to our
+camp, during an exhausting march from Appomattox
+Court House after Lee’s surrender, to guard the
+railroad at Nottaway C. H., a courier rode up with
+a despatch for General Charles S. Wainwright of
+whose staff I was a member, announcing the event
+in a few words.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The effect upon us was tremendous, we could not
+believe that it was true, and I thought at the time
+that it must lead to some uprising or revolution. It
+was a shock to both soldiers and citizens that they
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>could hardly realize. But his work was done, his
+life was complete, and he was allowed to die in all
+the glory and dignity of an unselfish triumph.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In a building corner of Broadway and 10th Street,
+New York, between what was then Stewart’s great
+dry goods establishment and Grace Church, I had
+from 1874 to 1879, a little den. It looked, like all
+my rooms, very cozy, with a medley of boyish,
+college, and army trophies hanging about, and endless
+souvenirs of travel and previous years experience
+on the walls, and in graceful confusion.
+Many of my old half discarded things had fallen
+into place, and I wrote under the light of a Russian
+double candlestick with a soft green shade, while
+my gas was being put in order. My old army
+toggery I had arranged in a trophy—sword, belt,
+sash, cap, pistol, spurs, blouse of Second Lieutenant
+of Artillery (Fifth Massachusetts Battery,
+Light Artillery) with the holes through the right
+sleeve and the blood on the lining, corps and other
+military badges, etc., and as a background the
+American flag, in silk, given me by some dear
+friends with whom I often stayed at Weston,
+Mass., and which I carried with me in the army,
+and had suspended in my winter quarters on the
+Rappahannock River, Va., 1863-’4. As I now
+look at them I can see on my sword knot the very
+same crape which was twisted round it by my
+servant “Joe,” when all the army went into mourning
+for the death of Abraham Lincoln. It is to
+me a precious relic, and one such as I imagine
+there are few preserved.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In April, 1879, I wrote what follows in a letter
+to the Boston <cite>Transcript</cite>:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“The writer paid a visit yesterday to that
+remarkable picture now on exhibition at Doll and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>Richards’, 2 Park Street, (Boston) by Albion H.
+Bicknell, representing President Lincoln at the
+dedication of the cemetery at Gettysburg. Oh,
+that word! What a story does it tell! It was
+the central turning point of the war, just as Bull
+Run was the beginning, and Appomattox the end.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>As you look at that wonderful painting, and
+gaze at the different men there—men who were
+towers of strength for the Union,—you find, as
+you count them off one by one, that more than
+two-thirds of those who were there that bright
+autumn afternoon, November 19, 1863, have ere
+this passed on,—Seward, Andrew, Everett, Meade,
+Chase, Wilson, Stanton, Morton, Greeley, Sumner,
+Welles, Johnson, Hamlin, Fessenden,—are with
+us no more.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The landscape, with the trees and the sky and
+the flavor of autumn in the air, is admirable.
+The grouping is simple, natural and effective, and
+the likenesses of the different persons are remarkable.
+There they are, honest and earnest American
+citizens, in the prosaic dress of the day,—real,
+not ideal,—some few of them in uniform,
+but a majority in the habiliments of civil life. You
+can almost catch the serious words of President
+Lincoln, just as he delivered them in that terse
+speech which will go down to posterity as his masterpiece
+of oratory.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Statue at Springfield, Ill.</span>—<br></h3>
+<p class='c015'><span class='sc'>Grant’s Longest Speech.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Early in the year 1874, a bronze statue of Abraham
+Lincoln was placed over his grave at Springfield,
+Illinois. It was unveiled with appropriate
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>ceremonies and in the presence of over 25,000 people.
+Prayer was offered by Bishop Wayman of the
+(colored) Methodist Church, and an oration was
+delivered by Senator Oglesby of Illinois. President
+Ulysses S. Grant, Vice President Henry Wilson,
+ex-Vice President Schuyler Colfax and General
+William T. Sherman were present, and all made
+brief addresses, that of General Grant said to be the
+longest speech he ever delivered. It was as follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen: On an occasion
+like the present, it is a duty on my part to bear testimony
+to the great and good qualities of the patriotic man whose
+earthly remains now rest beneath the dedicated monument.
+It was not my fortune to make the personal acquaintance
+of Mr. Lincoln till the beginning of the last year of the
+great struggle for national existence. During those years
+of trouble and despondency, amongst the many patriotic
+men of the country, Abraham Lincoln never for a moment
+doubted that the final result would be in favor of peace,
+union, and freedom to every race in this broad land. His
+faith in an all-wise Providence directing our arms to this
+final result, was the faith of the Christian that his Redeemer
+liveth. Amid obloquy, personal abuse and hate
+undisguised, which were given vent to without restraint
+through the press, upon the stump, and in private circles,
+he remained the same staunch, unyielding servant of the
+people, never exhibiting revengeful feelings towards his
+traducers, he, rather, pitied them, and hoped for their own
+sakes, and the good name of their posterity, they might
+desist. It did not occur to him for a single moment that
+the man Lincoln was being assailed, but that a treasonable
+spirit, one waiting to destroy the fairest government the
+sun ever shone upon, was giving vent to itself on him, as
+the chief executive of the nation, only because he was such
+executive. As a lawyer in your midst, he would have
+avoided all that slander, for his life was a pure and simple
+one, and no doubt he would have been a much happier
+man; but who can tell what might have been the fate of
+the nation but for the pure, unselfish, and wise administration
+of Lincoln?</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>From March, 1864, to the day when the hand of an
+assassin opened the grave for Mr. Lincoln when President
+of the United States, my personal relations with him were
+as close as the nature of our respective duties would permit.
+To know him personally was to love and respect him
+for his great qualities of head and heart, and for his
+patience and patriotism.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>With all his disappointments from failures on the part
+of those to whom he intrusted command, and treachery on
+the part of those who had gained his confidence but to
+betray it, I never heard him utter a complaint, nor cast
+censure for bad conduct or bad faith. It was his nature
+to find excuses for his adversaries. In his death the nation
+lost its greatest head. In his death the South lost its most
+just friend.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>Lincoln said to Grant, when as Lieutenant General
+he placed him in charge of all the Armies:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“The particulars of your plans I neither know, nor seek
+to know. You are vigilant and self-reliant; and, pleased
+with this, I wish not to obtrude any restraints nor constraints
+upon you.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<hr class='c018'>
+
+<p class='c013'>Boston is fortunate in having in Park Square the
+emancipation group by Thomas Ball, of Lincoln
+breaking the fetters of a negro slave, the gift of
+Hon. Moses Kimball to the city.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In Chicago, October 1, 1893, during the World’s
+Columbian Exposition, I went to see the statue of
+Abraham Lincoln by Saint Gaudens in Lincoln
+Park. It is splendid in every way, one of the finest
+certainly in the country and perhaps in the world,
+and in 1903, a bronze statue of Lincoln, cast in
+heroic mould with uplifted arm, was erected on a
+hill in a town in Illinois from which point it may be
+seen for twenty miles in every direction.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The theatre building where he was shot was never
+afterwards used for entertainments, but for many
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>years contained a collection of curios from the battle
+fields, which was subsequently removed to the
+National Museum, and it has since been attached to
+the War Department as an office building for a
+bureau.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>August 5, 1901, I visited the house where he
+died, now containing the Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial
+Collection, consisting of over 3000 articles pertaining
+to the martyred President.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER THIRD.<br> <span class='c010'>BRUSSELS. THANKSGIVING IN BERLIN. WILNA.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in12'>“This is the place. Stand still, my steed,</div>
+ <div class='line in14'>Let me review the scene,</div>
+ <div class='line in12'>And summon from the shadowy Past</div>
+ <div class='line in14'>The forms that once have been.”</div>
+ <div class='line in30'>—<em>Henry W. Longfellow.</em></div>
+ <div class='line'>“<cite>A Gleam of Sunshine</cite>,” edition of 1864.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother</span>.</h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in10'>Berlin, Nov. 29, 1866,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Or, in other words, Thanksgiving Day.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I happen to be aware of this fact, Mama, because
+yesterday, strolling about the Berlin gallery we met
+first Mr. Urbino (Dealer in choice foreign books in
+Boston) and afterwards Mr. Kellogg, (My brother
+Willie’s travelling friend) the latter of whom told
+us that all the Americans were to have a big Thanksgiving
+dinner at some hotel here, and so we also put
+our names down, and mean to do “the eminent
+American.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Almost twelve and not breakfasted as yet! How
+lazy one does get, and we have tickets to see the
+Schloss at twelve, precisely.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well then, to begin,—We really left Paris on
+Saturday, arriving at Brussels in time to take a cup
+of tea, a chicken cold, and retire, and you have no
+idea how nice it is again to be on the move!</p>
+
+<div id='i_068' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_068.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>WILNA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Sunday, a drizzly day, we drove all the way out
+to Waterloo amidst the hoots of the “rag, tag and
+bobtail” of the villages taking us for British
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>tourists. We scanned the scene of conflict with
+military gaze, bought a cane and a lunch, chaffed
+the natives, and returned in time to see Déjazet
+the celebrated old actress perform in a charming
+little piece. Monday we strolled about the town,
+looked at a few pictures, flattened our noses on the
+shop windows, very pretty they are, too, that is,
+the things within, and would find ourselves suddenly
+bringing up at some grand old cathedral, or a
+fascinating marketplace, with statues to old “swells”
+whose heads had been discontinued there; gilt-edged
+houses in which the ancient guilds and clubs
+held forth, crooked streets, high hills, etc. etc.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>That evening after dinner we billeted ourselves
+for Berlin viâ Cologne, and I soon had an excellent
+opportunity of airing my execrable German, and
+thanking myself for the little I possess.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, here we are in Berlin, the city of music and
+philosophy, and here is Charlie,—by the way, the
+best travelling companion imaginable,—ready to
+descend for breakfast.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>P. M. I am now in my evening harness with
+just time to finish this before going to dine. Yesterday
+we went to the Gallery, which I liked
+exceedingly, although there are only a few real
+masterpieces, many of which I knew well from your
+book “The Berlin Gallery,” at home. The Murillo
+is perhaps the finest. The building itself is charmingly
+arranged, all the different schools in order,
+and the temperature just right, which you won’t
+find in the Italian galleries. We then sauntered
+along to Unter den Linden, and caused a great
+sensation. Whether our reefing jackets and little
+hats and blue scarfs, or our truly distingué and
+<em>chic</em>,—tell Willie the word is still a favorite in
+Paris,—appearance were the cause, I know not.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>I can here say that the Berliners are not exactly
+“swells,” though big on metaphysics, and now on
+diplomacy and war; certain it is, however, that
+many were the smiles bestowed upon us as we gaily
+marched along.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the evening we saw a very good ballet at the
+Victoria Theatre. Today we have not accomplished
+much except the King’s old palace, and got
+fur lined boots, very necessary for travelling, and
+filled our pockets with roubles. Tomorrow we go
+to see the paintings in company with Mr. Thies and
+probably in the evening start for Königsberg,
+where I will get you an amber bracelet. The
+weather is quite mild now, but I think after leaving
+Wilna it will be fresh enough. It is rather an odd
+city, this Berlin, with a feeble little stream called
+the Spree, just under our window. Charlie sends
+love to all. Good night, for I go to the feast of
+Bacchus,—roast turkey and plumb pudding.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>N. A.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class='c018'>
+
+<p class='c013'>Professor Thies, whom I met in Berlin, had been
+curator of the Gray Collection of Engravings at
+Harvard College, and showed to a party of us in
+the second term of my Junior year the famous
+prints, collected by Francis Colley Gray principally
+abroad, which he bequeathed to the College, and
+which were then in one of the alcoves of Gore Hall,
+or the Library, up stairs. Our party consisted of
+Professor Longfellow and his son Charlie, George
+B. Shattuck and his sister, my sister and myself.
+It was a great treat and gave me my first real
+knowledge of art. We examined all the engravings,
+taking several weeks, and the remarks of
+Professor Thies were full of knowledge and charm.
+It was an education not only in the art of different
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>kinds of engraving, but of painting and sculpture,
+as many of them were copies of the masterpieces
+of these two branches of art. The Collection was
+transferred to the Boston Museum of Fine Arts
+when it was opened, and now forms a part of the
+Fogg Museum at Harvard.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Berlin in 1866.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In Berlin, the palaces, houses and stores on the
+principal thoroughfares, stand before you as dull
+and unsentimental looking as the Prussian sentinels.
+The people whom you meet, while appearing as
+respectable and worthy as church deacons, have
+no elegance nor grace about them, they come and
+go on every side as gravely and soberly as is permitted
+to human beings, with nothing disorderly
+or gay in their manner. They impress you all as
+being in what is called “comfortable circumstances,”
+wearing a look of contented commonplaceness,
+and with the most unbounded respect
+for things as they are in Prussia, from the Kaiser
+down, and a corresponding ignorance of and pity
+for the situation in other less favored countries.
+There is an egotistical patriotism in this which is
+delicious, and which must have its merits, but it
+certainly makes its supporters more objects of curiosity
+than of interest to any outsiders, with whom
+they may come in contact. But, on the other
+hand, there is a compactness in the forward march
+of the North Germans as a nation, which is irresistible,
+and which is certain to accomplish great
+results, and for it the philosophical student of
+history cannot but feel an admiration which he
+does not accord to the more attractive and mercurial
+inhabitants of other countries. He respects
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>intensely the Prussians, but he does not care to live
+among them.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The next morning after our arrival in Berlin we
+sauntered forth to see all there was in the city, and
+to provide ourselves with a complete outfit of furs:
+caps, coats and boots. The weather was cold and
+we would need these protections for the rest of our
+journey, and we knew there was no better market
+in Europe for obtaining them of good quality and
+at reasonable prices than in the city of Frederick
+the Great.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Thanksgiving Dinner.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Wilna, Dec. 3, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I begin you a letter here as we have some time
+before the train starts for <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg which I
+will finish there, and will take up my story at
+Berlin, where I left myself just going to dinner.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The dinner was quite successful and amusing:
+about one hundred Americans of all styles collected
+together, one pretty girl, Miss R. of Springfield, my
+classmate Green (The distinguished oculist Dr. J.
+Orne Green.), lots of old professional buffers, and a
+good deal of ruff skuff in long coats and red scarfs,
+and several military men. Charlie and I got an old
+Russian gentleman between us and talked philosophy
+and <em><span lang="fr">la vie Russe</span></em>.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The minister, Mr. Wright, presided, and went
+through very gracefully the rather difficult performance
+of drinking the health of the President!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Opera House at Berlin is quite stunning, and
+they have the best female singer in the world,
+Lucca. We did not have the good fortune to hear
+her. Berlin is ahead of all the world in music. In
+other respects I think it rather a dull city, but then,
+we have not as yet shaken off the glitter of Paris
+from our garments.</p>
+
+<div id='i_073' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_073.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>STATUE OF KANT. KÖNIGSBURG, 1866.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>The next day we went to Königsberg on the
+Baltic, where we passed twenty-four hours, and
+visited the Schloss where the Teutonic Knights in
+ye ancient time held their revels, and where later
+the King and Queen of Prussia lived when Napoleon
+captured Berlin and made the peace of Tilsit.
+There is an old modern church in which the numberless
+columns almost prevent your seeing across, and
+a very old cathedral, with lots of interesting
+monuments.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday we came here, a flourishing Polish
+town before Russia “gobbled it up,” and go
+through the experience of having our trunks and
+passports examined every few hours, although,
+when they find we are Americans, they are very
+civil. They can’t quite make us out, and look
+upon us as curiosities, especially stopping at Wilna.
+America seems to them so far off. The Russian
+surveillance is very strict in the Polish cities, more
+so than in Russia proper, and it was here that lots
+of Poles were hung only a few years ago. Napoleon
+slept in the palace here the night after Alexander
+left it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is so awfully funny, this first taste of Russia,
+little sleighs just holding one man all covered with
+furs, and a big hoop over the horse like the pictures
+in our geography,—narrow streets with crowds of
+Jews, great bulb like steeples to the churches, and
+everything different. They keep the houses so
+warm that you almost suffer. Well, I must close
+for tonight.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>N. A.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Fairy Sleigh.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>The spring previous to this Russian journey I
+received the following note from Mrs. Harrison
+Gray Otis, on receiving a photograph of myself in
+my fancy sleigh:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis presents her regards to Mr.
+Appleton, and very much thanks him for the interesting
+photograph which she had already admired. She hopes
+he will have more snow the next winter to enjoy his fairy
+like equipage, and wishes him health and happiness as a
+reward for his wounds in the service of his country.”</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Mt. Vernon Street,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>14th March, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>My pretty sleigh had the appearance of a Russian
+one as I had arranged what looked like a “duga”
+over the saddle of the horse, with a waving plume.
+I once drove down State street in it with my
+colored groom, the same old “Joe” who was with
+me in the army, sitting behind in the rumble, and
+from its striking appearance, with the white fox
+robes, made a mild sensation.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Stop Over at Wilna.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We broke the journey from Berlin to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg,
+which is long and uninteresting, by stopping
+over twenty-four hours at Wilna, once the
+capital of Lithuania, afterwards an important
+Polish and at present an unimportant Russian
+town. We thought we ought not to jump into the
+middle of Russia at once; we ought to look a little
+at the edges, and study the ways and customs of
+the provincials, which we were sure would be
+curious and worth seeing, so it was decided that we
+pass a day at Wilna.</p>
+
+<div id='i_074' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_074.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>SINGLE SLEIGH.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>There is probably no part of the civilized world
+where the annoyances about passports and baggage
+are greater than in conquered Poland. Everyone
+who enters the land is looked upon with suspicion,
+and the difficulty is not by any means over when
+you get in, for there is the same trouble to get out
+again, sometimes even worse. But few tourists
+stop there, and so any well-dressed stranger seen is
+an object of curiosity, and is most carefully watched
+by the police. Particularly is this system of
+espionage strong in the small cities, and one’s life
+there by it becomes a burden.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was late at night when we arrived at the depot.
+Our passports were carefully scrutinized, our names
+recorded, the name of the hotel where we intended
+to stop was taken down, and we were told that
+owing to the lateness of the hour our trunks would
+not be examined that night, but that we must come
+for the ceremony at ten o’clock the next morning.
+We were also informed that we could not leave the
+city without again having our passports examined
+and the proper <em>visa</em> put on.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Beggar.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>When we looked out of our hotel window the next
+morning the street in front was filled with beggars
+of every description, who on seeing us at the window
+began going through every imaginable kind of
+pantomime which might appeal to the pity or the
+pride of those to whom they were addressed.
+Perhaps of all the types of beggars in the world, the
+Polish Jew is the most striking. His long greasy
+hair, his longer and greasier coat, his trowsers
+tucked in his boots and his peculiar cap, are distinguishing
+traits. And then how he can pile on
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>the agony in facial expression and gesture! No
+imagined grief of Dante’s Inferno can excel what
+the Polish Jew would make you believe are his
+sufferings as he stands thus piteously addressing
+you. For a handful of copper coins flung among
+the crowd, they fought hard and long.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Tour of the Town.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>After, with some difficulty, getting possession
+of our trunks, and showing that they contained
+no infernal machines, nor suspicious looking insurrectionary
+pamphlets, we jumped into a sleigh, as
+the ground here was well covered with snow, and
+wrapping ourselves up in our <em>shubes</em> started off on a
+tour of inspection through the town.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There is something very fascinating in the first
+suspicion of the Orient as seen in the outlying
+frontier towns of the Sclavonic race. The bright
+colored churches with their bulbous steeples albeit
+dull and in miniature, give a suggestive hint of
+what the glories of Moscow and Constantinople will
+be. The queer costumes of the people, neither
+Asiatic or European, and their manners in which
+the patriarchal reverence for authority of the East
+is tinged with the curiosity and thirst for knowledge
+of the West, make you regard them as a sort of
+stepping stone or connecting link between Eastern
+and Western customs and civilization. And then
+it is all so different from life in the other European
+capitals, where each one is more or less a stilted
+copy of the others. Here you have the mixture of
+the European and Asiatic elements in such a
+peculiar way, that something astonishing strikes
+you continually, and the social relations are so
+vague that real adventures are likely to befall you
+in all the classes of society.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span>The rough wooden sleigh in which we were
+whisked through the place, with its brightly
+painted <em>duga</em> over the horse’s head, the light
+ornamented harness, with the strange dress of the
+driver, made visions of winter pleasures in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+Petersburg fill our imaginations, and we thought
+what a sensation we would make could we only be
+transferred just as we were into the Harlem Lane!</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Horse, Sleigh and Coachman.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Your sleigh follows you round by day and night,
+always within call, and so, enveloped in the dark
+furs of Astrachan or Siberia, you sally forth on
+your round of conquest. The horses are superb,
+very fast trotters, with high knee action, and holding
+their heads gracefully; the favorite colors are
+black or dappled gray. The ordinary sleigh, that
+of the <em><span lang="fr">grand seigneur</span></em>, such, indeed, as the Emperor
+almost always uses, as well as those you pick up
+anywhere in the streets, are not unlike our well-known
+Portland cutters. Between the regular
+seat and the dash-board is a little narrow seat on
+which the driver perches, with one foot inside, and
+the other in a sort of stirrup outside, from which
+he braces himself to hold the horse. A fur robe,
+or rather a thick cloth robe trimmed with a deep
+border of fur, comes over you and is fastened
+around you, and hooked at the corners of the
+sleigh in such a way that you cannot tumble out.
+The sleighs are very plain, generally of varnished
+wood, not even painted. The coachman is a type
+quite different from what you will see in any other
+country. The most stylish are stout, impressive
+looking men of middle age, with a long beard like
+a French <em>sapeur</em>. They wear a dark, thick garment,
+which in shape I can only compare to a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>dressing-gown, fastened around the waist with a
+brilliant sash, and then falling nearly to the feet in
+great plaits.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The fashionable owners of these turnouts are
+seated behind their drivers as comfortable as possible,
+and take as much interest in racing on the
+road and passing those about them, as we do when
+handling the ribbons ourselves. By far the most
+elegant turnout is the single sleigh with a trotter
+in the shafts and a horse on each side, making three
+abreast, galloping along. They are trained specially
+for this when young, and they do it well; bending
+their heads down to the right or left, as it may
+be, and rushing along madly. The Prefect of
+Police of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg had a stunning team of
+that kind.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Besides all I have mentioned there are many
+handsome double-seated sleighs, with a flunkey
+standing up behind on a board near the ground in
+some gorgeous livery, and cocked hat with turkey
+feathers of different colors, like a major general’s.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I must not forget to mention the net that goes
+from the horse’s back to the dash-board of the
+sleigh, to prevent the snow from being kicked in
+your face, a most sensible idea, and one we could
+well copy in America. These nets are of brilliant
+colors, red, blue, or green, to match the livery and
+the sleigh, and the effect is fine as they float in the
+wind. The winter of 1870-’1, after my return from
+Russia, I used the net to keep the snow from being
+kicked in my face, a blue one, which I bought in
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. A young fellow who saw me passing
+and did not understand what it was for, cried
+out:—“Look at that man, he’s afraid the flies will
+bite his horse!”—Not a bad remark for mid-winter,
+and I came to the conclusion that Russian
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span>ideas of sleighing were not altogether appreciated
+in America.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>At Wilna. The Chief of Police.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The most amusing scene of our stop over at
+Wilna, was at the office of the Chief of Police. To
+arrange our passports for departing we went to the
+office during the afternoon, but as it was <em><span lang="fr">jour de
+fête</span></em>, as it generally is, in honor of some saint, the
+bureau was closed and the head official was absent.
+In consideration of the great regard Russia felt for
+the United States, the second in command agreed
+to attend to our case, as we were in a hurry to leave
+the city, with the understanding that it must be
+submitted to his chief for approval. The interview
+was characteristic and ludicrous. The official
+spoke a little bad German, nothing else except
+Russian. We had both neglected our German
+studies and only knew a few phrases, sufficient to
+demand the necessities of life in travelling. The
+gaps were filled up with gestures, and the interrogatory
+of name, age, residence, occupation,
+went on slowly and unintelligibly enough until the
+hotel keeper, having heard of the dilemma in which
+all parties found themselves, came to the rescue
+with the little French he knew and assurances of
+the good character of the persons on trial, affirming
+that he had conversed with us long at his hotel and
+he was certain there was nothing suspicious about
+us. This only confused things more, and the poor
+official hardly knew what to do. He was unwilling
+to take so great a responsibility upon himself and
+began to think he had got some important political
+offenders. It is difficult to say how the interview
+would have ended; it began to look as if he intended
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>locking us up until he should have time to reflect,
+but fortunately the Chief of Police at this moment
+came in. He was a gentleman of education and
+delicacy of feeling, one of those polished Russian
+officers so often met, and what was more to the
+point spoke both English and French fluently. He
+sat down quietly at his table, and in a dignified
+manner saying a few words in Russian to his now
+abashed assistant, examined carefully the passports,
+and finding everything <em><span lang="fr">en regle</span></em>, asked us a
+few simple questions, which being satisfactorily
+answered, he said:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“I must apologize, gentlemen, for the annoyance
+to which you have been unavoidably subjected,
+but we poor officials have very strict orders in
+Polish Russia, and mistakes will sometimes arise.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When it was time to leave we were consigned to
+the best attention of all the conductors and railroad
+officials of the line, with orders to be treated as
+became American princes. The train was well
+filled with passengers, and we took our places in
+carriage 722, C, <em><span lang="fr">première classe</span></em>, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburgh
+and Warsaw Railroad.</p>
+
+<div id='i_081' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_081.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>NEVSKI PROSPECT ST. PETERSBURG.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FOURTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ST. PETERSBURG. TSAR ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“I shall not be particular in stating</div>
+ <div class='line'>His journey, we’ve so many tours of late,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Suppose him then at Petersburgh; suppose</div>
+ <div class='line'>That pleasant capital of painted snows:—</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Damsels and dances, revels, ready money,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Made ice seem paradise, and winter sunny.”</div>
+ <div class='line in32'>—<em>Lord Byron.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, December 5, 1866. (Continuation
+of letter written at Wilna.) Here we are at
+last, having arrived yesterday evening, and I must
+say that our first impressions are in the midst of
+difficulties, for on awakening this morning we found
+it actually thawing, and the streets are all filled with
+slosh, but the funny little sleighs rush about incessantly,
+and perfectly silently as there are no bells
+on the horses. We have been occupied today
+going to the banker’s where I found your letter, and
+to the American legation where we saw the minister,
+who told us that my classmate, Jeremiah Curtin,
+had gone only yesterday to Moscow for two or
+three weeks, and in looking up some kind of good
+apartment.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I think we shall stay here some time over Christmas,
+which I believe comes later in the Russian
+calendar than with us, and devote some time to
+learning Russian and continuing our French. In
+fact for the latter there can be no better place than
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>here. There are only about six or seven hours of
+daylight now, and these we must give up to sight
+seeing, which I mean to do thoroughly, and to
+skating and sleighing. In my next I will give you
+a good account of Saint Petersburg and its sights.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Till then adieu.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Sister.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Saint Petersburg, December 14, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>... Well, isn’t it droll, here is your young
+brother established as a gay <em>flâneur</em> in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P., who
+means to delve into all the gayeties of the Russian
+life.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our Minister, General Cassius M. Clay, (Of
+Kentucky, then 56 years of age.), presented Charlie
+and myself the other day to a most lovely Russian
+Princess, who lives in a gorgeous palace worth
+about one million roubles,—a rouble in gold is
+just our paper dollar. (This was true at that time
+when our currency was depreciated.) After going
+through suites of apartments, billiard room and
+salons, we found her in the boudoir, and she
+received us with such a graceful cordiality that she
+won both our hearts immediately, and we are now
+at her feet. Tomorrow General Clay is to take us
+to the reception of the Spanish Ambassador, as
+they are to give a ball soon to which he wants us
+to be invited. The Minister seems very inclined
+to be attentive and kind. We shall presently be
+presented in due form to the Imperial family.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Charlie and I are very comfortably established
+in a nice apartment with our books, and I want to
+stay here indefinitely. One must pass the winter
+somewhere, and why not here, where so few Americans
+have tried it?</p>
+
+<div id='i_082' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_082.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>HON. CASSIUS M. CLAY, MINISTER TO RUSSIA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>We have a jolly sleigh at our disposition, with a
+horse who rushes off like mad. Vehicles are a
+necessity here, where the distances are so tremendous,
+and no one ever walks, and you can hire
+excellent traps by the day, week, or month, much
+cheaper than taking them by the course. The
+sleighing has been splendid for the last week, and
+the Nevsky Prospect any afternoon is a sight worth
+seeing, filled with all kinds of sleighs. I have even
+seen one or two of our American cutters. All the
+strange equipages you read about are actually true,
+and the <em>troika</em> with one horse trotting and the other
+two galloping is no uncommon sight. The sleighing,
+when it once begins, lasts right along, as there
+is no sun at all to melt it, the days being very short,
+and what little sky there is overcast. You don’t
+feel the cold much either as there is very little
+wind,—how I shiver when I think of the Mill
+Dam,—(The “Mill Dam Road” a favorite Boston
+drive.), and we are learning many a wrinkle in the
+art of keeping warm, which we shall bring out in
+America. The shops, too, are fascinating, and I
+expect to invest heavily during my stay in all kinds
+of Russian articles, Persian silks and Circassian
+silver, Russian amulets, and the thousand and one
+things which you don’t see even in the cosmopolitan
+shops of Paris; among others a complete Russian
+harness, with a cap for the driver. There is a huge
+bazaar, where everything can be found, built in a
+parallelogram, with shops on the four sides.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The most fascinating things are the hoods all the
+ladies wear, covering just half their little fur caps.
+These are made of different colored cloths with
+embroidery of gold or silver. The fur lined slippers,
+too, are not bad, but I won’t tantalize you
+with descriptions. As I do not anticipate coming
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>here again soon I mean to do the thing up this
+time. I skated today for the first time on a pond
+belonging to the Russian Yacht Club, to which we
+have received tickets, but there were only a few
+there, in fact the skating does not fairly begin until
+the Neva Skating Club is open, which is the swell
+place, where all the nobility go. It is gotten up
+by the English, and is a large square, fenced in
+with pine trees planted in the ice, situated on the
+Neva in the city, with nice houses to put on your
+skates and warm yourself, very necessary here,
+and several times during the season they give <em>fêtes</em>
+by night. We have subscription tickets for the
+season, and I think it will be open in a few days.
+But with all this we must not forget our art, and
+here we have the magnificent gallery of the Hermitage,
+one of the finest though not the best known
+in Europe, and we can wander a whole winter
+through its endless galleries without exhausting
+the treasures.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Sunday morning: I hope the little jacket and hat
+will be pleasing to Master Billy, which Mr. Burgess
+is to bring from Paris. I will get him a few of the
+Oriental and Cossack children’s dresses, which are
+stunning and very plentiful here, and then I think
+he will make a sensation on Beacon street.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, my dear, I must close and dispatch this.
+Today we are to skate on the Yacht Club Pond, as
+they have a <em>fête</em> there every Sunday, and tonight
+at midnight is the first <em><span lang="fr">bal masqué</span></em> at the Grand
+Opera. “On with the dance,” and <em><span lang="fr">vive la jeunesse</span></em>!
+Last evening we passed at the English consul’s and
+met some very pretty young Cossacks, quite civilized,
+however. Charlie sends lots of love to you
+both. He is now in front of the fire with his feet
+in the air. Well, goodbye, and pinch Billy’s
+cheeks for me.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>There is a pretty arrangement in Russian houses,
+which is not to be found elsewhere that I know of.
+Part of the large drawing-room, generally a corner
+by windows, is often fenced off by itself, raised on
+a platform, about a foot above the rest of the floor.
+Here is formed a sort of garden in the house. The
+light iron fence is covered with some green, flowering
+vine, and inside are some exotics, palms and
+other tropical plants, and the effect is enchanting.
+The ladies select this as their especial haunt, transforming
+it into a boudoir where they read their
+favorite novels, write their notes, or work at
+embroidery.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I made my purchases of Circassian trinkets and
+toys, to send home to my nephews and nieces, in
+the <em><span lang="fr">Passage</span></em>, a much frequented place for the idlers
+of the town, in imitation of the Burlington Arcade
+in London, and the <em><span lang="fr">Passage des Panoramas</span></em> of
+Paris.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Those were pleasant skating parties we had on
+the Neva, in the open rink of the Club, where all
+the nobility and swells of the place came out to
+show their agility. Thanks to much practice and
+many a tumble upon the Frog Pond of Boston, I
+was a skillful skater, and my partners were also
+proficient in that difficult accomplishment. How
+we dashed along over the place where Peter the
+Great had often been paddled in his rough-hewn
+boat, now forward together arm-in-arm, now one
+backward and the other forward, each bending in
+time to the graceful curves of the outside edge!</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, 27th Nov. Russian Calendar.</div>
+ <div class='line in19'>9th Dec. American Calendar.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mamma.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your letter containing the tribute to Charlie
+Smith I found at the bank yesterday. How true
+and good the account of him is. You expected
+it would reach me in Paris, but you see we have got
+off before. We are getting somewhat settled here
+now, though we are not as yet fairly <em><span lang="fr">lancés</span></em> into the
+gay life. This is partly on account of the horrid
+weather, for ever since we have been here it has
+been gradually melting into slosh and the sleighing
+rapidly disappearing. Sudden changes are common,
+and today is cold again with snow falling.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Great Sea Street.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We have got a very nice little apartment on the
+great Moscow street, just in the centre of the city,
+and the house opposite being very low we get as
+much light as is possible anywhere.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We are in a French <em><span lang="fr">maison meublée</span></em> with a very
+pleasant Arthur O’Leary style of <em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em>, where
+we meet half a dozen different gentlemen from all
+kinds of countries, and we talk in French of the
+relative merits of our respective nationalities. In
+fact, we do more French talking here than in Paris.
+In the afternoon before dinner we take a lesson in
+Russian, our teacher using French as the basis of
+instruction, and I presume by the time I leave
+Russia, I shall be unable to speak any other language.
+It is considerable difficult though, but I
+go on the principle of learning everything.</p>
+
+<div id='i_086' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_086.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>BOLSHAJA MORSKAJA (GREAT SEA STREET).</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Church of Sault Isaac, which is about the
+only sight we have seen, is perfectly gorgeous, with
+its huge pillars of malachite and <em>lapis lazuli</em> from
+the mines of Demidoff. You enter, and a mysterious
+feeling, half oriental and half European,
+carries you away. The perpetual incense, the
+prostrate worshipers, the delicious temperature and
+the ornaments which combine the <em>luxe</em> of Europe
+with the savage gorgeousness of Asia, form a whole
+which the churches of Italy do not have. Perhaps
+this combination of East and West is the great
+charm to the life in Russia. The toilettes of the
+ladies have come from the brain and fingers of
+Parisian <em><span lang="fr">couturierès</span></em> adapted to climate here. The
+Oriental element you see strong in the livery of
+servants and the uniforms of officers. The feeling
+of caste is very marked, and while the London
+flunkey beats the world in servility, and the Italian
+beggar in woe-begone dejection, the Russian servant
+seems to be afraid of you, recognizing the
+superior man in everything.</p>
+
+<div id='i_087' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_087.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN ST. PETERSBURG.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Pretty Russian Maidens.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>I have not yet had a good chance to see all the
+different sleighs in their glory, but from what I
+have seen I think they will be stunning. We saw
+two pretty little Russian maidens, with their white
+furs, driving along in a jolly sleigh, the horse in the
+shafts trotting gaily, and one on his left cantering
+beside him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The omnibuses have three horses, but I have
+not seen a swell in his <em>troika</em>. The horses certainly
+trot faster than any except ours, and some I see on
+the Nevsky Prospect would make a very creditable
+show on the Brighton road.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>P. M. We have been out today to visit Mr.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>Pierce, (A relative of the Longfellows, who had
+been secretary of legation during President Pierce’s
+administration, and at the time we were in Russia
+connected with the Winans in the railroad building
+business.) who lives about four miles outside the
+city, and after passing the place by mistake and
+returning, we succeeded in finding him, and received
+a most hospitable reception. He seemed much
+inclined to help us in any way to have a jolly time.
+The sleighing was fine and the air deliciously cold
+and clear.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Russian youths at the theatres are a most
+enthusiastic crowd, and I have seen singers at the
+Opera, ballet dancers, or even a circus star called
+out five or six times. The Grand Opera House is
+very fine, and the ballet troupe gorgeous, quite as
+good, if not better, than the one in Paris. There
+is a theatre (Saint Michel) where they give French
+and German plays, so that one can have most
+everything.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, I have lots of letters to write and no time
+to write any of them, so that this must suffice you
+for the week.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The theatre is large and finely decorated. The
+Imperial box is always ready to be occupied by the
+Tsar or some member of his family, the sentries
+standing on each side of it in their gorgeous uniforms
+as motionless as statues. The pit is filled
+with the <em>viveurs</em> of the city, young and old, who
+are in their stalls, lorgnettes in hand, watching
+every movement on the stage. Between the acts
+all file out into the smoking room, when a <em>papyrus</em>
+is inhaled, and some cooling beverage partaken of
+in the interlude of the play.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The ballet itself is a masterpiece of skill in its
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>peculiar style. The dancers are trained carefully
+for years in a school under the Imperial patronage,
+and only appear upon the stage after having gone
+through a long apprenticeship. The story of the
+piece, of which the scene takes place in Russia or
+some of the Oriental countries, is most carefully
+worked up by the author, and entirely acted in
+pantomime and dance. All the passions of love,
+hatred, jealousy and revenge will be exhibited by
+motions aided by the changing strains of an excellent
+orchestra. When a favorite <em>danseuse</em> comes
+bounding across the stage, attired in Russian
+costume, delineating in her movements sentiments
+which appeal to the pride or patriotism of the
+audience, the enthusiasm of the house knows no
+limit, and words and shouts of applause rend the
+air long and loud.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Charles K. Smith.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I went to New York on my seventeenth birthday,
+February 2, 1860, when I was a Freshman at
+Harvard College, to pay a visit to the family of
+David Lane, whose wife was Caroline Lamson,
+sister of Colonel Daniel S. Lamson, friends of my
+mother, who lived at 12 East 10th Street or Brevoort
+Place, as it was called. The firm was Lane,
+Lamson, &#38; Co. The American flag in my trophy
+was given me by one of this family. It was on this
+New York visit that I made the acquaintance of
+Charlie Smith, and he seemed to take a great liking
+to me.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In my diary of Feb. 2, 1860, I find, “In the evening
+people came, it being the Lanes’ reception
+evening, Mr. Smith and others.” This is the first
+mention of him. One evening, shortly after this,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span>he invited us all to go to the Italian opera at the
+Academy of Music, in Brooklyn, and we accepted,
+driving over and back.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The next mention is in regard to a visit to Weston,
+Mass., “Feb. 16, 1860. Went to Weston in a
+glorious snow storm. Stunning dinner. Went for
+two of the party in an ox team to the station.
+Took profiles in the evening. Supper stunninger.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Sunday, Feb. 19, 1860. There was no church
+but we went out in the sleigh to see Mr. Smith’s
+protégé, deaf and dumb. (A boy he was interested
+in and was having educated.) Good dinner.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Daniel S. Lamson, our especial host and entertainer
+in 1860, was commissioned Major 16th
+Mass. Infantry, Aug. 1, 1861, Lieutenant Colonel
+July 23, 1862, and resigned for disability Sept.
+29, 1862. But this was the year before the War.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I always called him “Uncle Dan” and do so
+still (1904).</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Charlie Smith was about ten years my senior,
+and that sort of regard from an elder is always
+appreciated by a boy. At the time of my visit to
+New York he was stopping at the Brevoort House.
+He was a member of the New York Club in Broadway,
+the crack one at that time, and won my
+heart and esteem at once. I was devoted to him.
+One day we strolled down Broadway and he treated
+me to oysters and a glass of beer, and I thought
+I was a man of the world.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When we met at Weston he fascinated me more
+than ever, with his stories and songs, and we had
+many merry evenings. I was treated as a young
+man, not a boy, and I look back to those old
+times with unmingled delight.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The letter I received from my mother announcing
+Charlie Smith’s death at San Francisco, I can
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>now recall and explain. Of Boston parentage,
+he had gone to California in the early days, and
+made what at that time was considered a good
+fortune. He was killed accidentally by a shot
+when out gunning. He was so popular in the
+city of San Francisco that the body was laid in
+state in the rooms of the Union Club of that
+city, as a tribute to the appreciation in which he
+was held by its members.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The New York Club.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The New York Club, corner of Broadway and
+Great Jones street, I never visited with Charlie
+Smith, but during the War they moved to the
+Haight house, Fifth avenue and 15th street. That
+was the apogee of their greatness, and I was introduced
+and became a six months’ member. Great
+Jones street was near property which belongs to the
+Jones-De Trobriand-Post families.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Wednesday, Dec. 20, 1866.</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Saint Petersburg.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mamma:</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I begin you a letter now, to finish sometime if
+possible. Your last one talked to me about the
+furs. I think you are quite right to want lots of
+Russian things, as they are fascinating, and you
+will probably never have as good an opportunity
+of getting them. Be easy, then, for I am to buy
+no end of various things, and send them all off to
+Boston, by the first Spring boat of Mr. Ropes.
+Mr. Prince, who is the head one of the house here,
+is very obliging, and being a good judge of furs,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>I think I can satisfy you in that line, though they
+won’t be in time for this winter. I shall buy the
+skins only, and you can have them made up in
+Boston to suit you, as the fur goods they wear
+here are different from ours, and might not please
+you. For instance, I have not seen a pair of cuffs
+in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I shall get handsome, dark
+Siberian sable skins, worthy of a princess, Persian
+table cloths, malachite ornaments, slippers, Circassian
+silver, etc., etc., and also something which
+will make you very happy—a little box or two of
+the stunning tea, which is brought across from
+Pekin in caravans.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We are to dine with Mr. Prince next Tuesday,
+which is Christmas day, and have since had to
+decline an invitation for the same day, given us by
+the English Ambassador.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>—Presentation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Two days ago we were presented to the Emperor.
+We were quite alone, no other people being presented
+the same day. We marched through suites
+of apartments, and were formally ushered into
+His Majesty’s billiard room, where we were received
+by two of the chamberlains, and from there we
+went into the reception room where we soon had
+a little conversation with the head of all the Russias
+in our native (?) language of French. He
+is very nice, I give you my word, but we were
+disappointed in not seeing the Empress, though
+this comes some other time.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We have a good many occasions of airing our
+French in the <em><span lang="fr">beau monde</span></em> of Russia, and I find
+that there is no trouble with it; the only thing to
+do being to go right along regardless of errors,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>for I see that although I do not speak very well,
+there are plenty who speak quite as bad and worse,
+and this being a neutral ground of course one is
+bolder. However, a great many of the well
+educated speak English admirably.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>All this goes to show that we are in for society
+now, and have to await quietly a round of balls,
+operas, and dinners, and return our calls most
+punctiliously, a form of etiquette about which the
+Russians are very exacting.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went to a jolly young count’s (Koucheleff
+Besborodko) the other day, who immediately
+made us at home with a delicious cigar. His
+house, take it all in all, was about as lovely as
+any I have ever seen, with an Oriental smoking
+room, a Pompadour boudoir, a Chinese room, a
+long gallery of paintings, an immense dancing hall,
+and a conservatory arranged with grottoes and
+cascades, a rustic bridge, and an original old statue
+of a satyr, picked up in Rome. The Count is a
+great connoisseur of art, and his collection in all
+its branches is magnificent, with souvenirs of every
+city of Europe, and all the ages of the world,
+enough to drive to despair any such little dabblers
+as myself.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have met quite a charming young Austrian
+lady, who lives with the Spanish Ambassador’s
+wife, but I shall take good care of my heart and
+bring it back to Boston.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our acquaintances, thus far, are eminently diplomatic,
+as you see, the English consul’s family
+especially being very attentive.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We skated yesterday on the Neva Club place
+for the first time, as the grounds are only just
+opened, but today it is thawing again, and we
+must wait a bit for it to freeze.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span>I think you would be rather frightened at the
+way they drive here in the sleighs, rushing off as
+fast as possible, yelling to people and carriages
+to get out of the way, and then bringing the horse
+up suddenly with a droll sound—bhr-r-r-r!—which
+corresponds to “whoa” in English. In some letter
+I will describe a sleigh for you, but they are all
+alike, from the Emperor’s to the street cabs, except
+in finish. There are very few covered vehicles
+here to hire, and you always go, by night and day,
+in an open sleigh, so you can judge from that, that
+the cold is not so awfully severe here as you imagine.
+We take very good care not to be frozen, as
+we both have a horror of the amusement, but
+enough for today.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Presentation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The Hon. Cassius M. Clay, the American Minister,
+presented C. A. Longfellow and myself to
+the Emperor.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Invitation.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c004'>
+ <div>Translated from the French.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Ministry of the Imperial Court.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Direction of Ceremonies.</div>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, 5–17 December, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Grand Master of Ceremonies has the honor to
+inform Mr. N. Appleton, that he will have the honor of
+being presented to His Majesty the Emperor tomorrow,
+Tuesday, 6–18 December, at half past one in the afternoon
+at the Winter Palace.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>You are requested to come to the door of Her Majesty
+the Empress.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in10'>[Seal]</div>
+ <div class='line'>[See binding of this book.]</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>The invitation was gladly accepted, not only
+from the desire of meeting in person the Autocrat
+of all the Russias, but also because once done your
+name was put upon the list of distinguished visitors
+to the capital, and, as a matter of course, you
+were invited to all the balls and festivities of the
+season. General Clay called for us in his sleigh,
+and we drove to the Winter Palace, where we were
+met by some of the officers of the staff, on horseback.
+The regulation dress prescribed for us was
+“black or blue dress coat, black vest and pantaloons,
+white cravat and white kids,” as stated
+in a marginal note by General Clay.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Having been ushered into the presence of the
+Emperor, as detailed in my letter to my mother,
+we had a little chat with him, principally answering
+some questions about America, and then retired,
+and went down stairs.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>While waiting in the hall below for our sleigh to
+drive up, the Tsar came bounding down the staircase,
+followed by his favorite Newfoundland dog,
+with which he was often photographed, and before
+jumping into his sleigh and dashing off on some
+call, he stopped and exchanged a few more words
+with us. Indeed the whole interview made a most
+agreeable impression upon me.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gortschakoff.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“The days when the great Nicholas leaned on him
+sweep back from the mists of the buried years. In his
+old age, he is the Richelieu of another Tsar, for Russia
+draws the sword in fight once more.”</p>
+
+<p class='c017'>—<em>Col. Richard Henry Savage</em> on Gortschakoff in 1876.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>I was naturally very much delighted with the
+prospect of being presented to the distinguished
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>veteran Russian diplomatist and chancellor of
+the empire. This occurred in December of this
+year, 1866. General Clay had arranged the interview
+beforehand with Count Gortschakoff, and
+one morning called for us at our hotel in his sleigh
+to take us there. Another person was of the party,
+and strangely enough a negro, a certain Captain
+Chester, who was out in Russia on some special
+business.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We started off through the cold, clear air, and
+were soon at the door of the Ministry of Foreign
+Affairs, where we were expected, and ushered in.
+We first met Mr. Westerman, a gentleman who
+for some time had been Count Gortschakoff’s right
+hand man and assistant in the tremendous duties
+of his office, and were then shown by him into the
+private cabinet of the chancellor.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our interview was, of course, not lengthy, but
+most interesting. The old gentleman chatted
+with us very pleasantly on different topics, and
+in his manner and reception of us was as simple
+and unaffected as a child. He looked hale and
+hearty, and as though he had before him many
+years, which he meant to devote to aiding the
+development of Russian progress and civilization,
+and he did live two years after the death of the
+Tsar and died in Baden-Baden March 11, 1883.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to my Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Thursday, Dec. 27, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mamma.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Another week has glided rapidly by, finding us
+still at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and I have two of your
+letters to acknowledge, the last one bearing date
+of December 9th.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To Cronstadt—An American Party.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>What have we been doing? Among other things
+yesterday a party of Americans went to see Cronstadt.
+We were, General Roberts, <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr>, a
+good specimen of an American general (Benjamin
+Stone Roberts, graduate of West Point, served in
+the Mexican war and the Rebellion, brevetted
+Brig. Gen. <abbr title='United States Army'>U. S. A.</abbr>, and Major Gen. <abbr title='United States Volunteers'>U. S. V.</abbr>,
+inventor of the Roberts breech-loading rifle, which
+he was trying to introduce to the Russians. He
+was a remarkably genial fellow, and had lots of
+good stories which he delighted in telling.), Mr.
+Sawyer, correspondent of the New York <cite>Herald</cite>,
+and a very pleasant companion, C. A. L., and
+myself, and we had a Russian colonel put at our
+disposal to open the gates of everything. We
+went down by rail to a place opposite Cronstadt,
+and then crossed over the Gulf of Finland on the
+ice, with two funny little Finnish ponies to each
+sledge, one trotting and the other galloping,
+but going like the wind, and doing the five miles
+in less than half an hour, without lessening speed
+once. It was very cold and our fur coats were
+necessary. We visited some of the forts, and
+afterwards breakfasted at the Navy and Army
+Club of the place. The whole effect of the day and
+the adventures were eminently Russian. We had
+to get up long before daylight, and saw the sun
+rise about 9 o’clock, something one does not often
+see here, as we are generally asleep at that time.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Imperial Stables.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>One day last week we visited the Imperial
+stables, which I thought very shabby, although
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>many of the horses were stunning, and afterwards
+we examined all the swell carriages and sledges,
+which have been used at coronations, weddings
+and <em>fêtes</em> from the time of Peter the Great to the
+Princess Dagmar. They showed all varieties of
+taste, and are more magnificent than those at the
+Trianon at Versailles.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On Christmas Day Charlie and self dined with
+Mr. Prince, and attended just before dinner the
+christening of his youngest child. It was quite
+a large dinner, Anglo-American, and most decidedly
+respectable. It is curious how very few
+American families there are living in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.
+Last Sunday we dined with Mr. Whistler,
+(George W., father of the artist James Abbott
+McNeill W.) who is one of the gentlemen connected
+with the Winans car manufactory. There
+were about twelve, all gentlemen, and all Americans,
+indeed it included almost all the American
+males here,—General Clay, and the Consul, Mr.
+Winans, Mr. Pierce, and others, and it was jolly
+enough.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>On Saturday next Charlie and I think of starting
+for Moscow, spending ten days, or so, and then
+returning, as we give up the Odessa plan, but we
+have not quite decided.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, I must stop now, as I go in a minute to
+drive with the Spanish Ambassador and his wife,
+the Duke and Duchess d’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado,
+but whether it is a “<em><span lang="fr">grand diner diplomatique</span></em>” or a
+“<em><span lang="fr">petite causerie intime</span></em>” I know not.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Friday morning: I have just time to finish and
+dispatch this now, before going out to perform the
+numerous last duties on the eve of our departure
+for Moscow. Cards must be sent round, etc. etc.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The dinner yesterday was very good, rather in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>the heavy diplomatic line, old swells with countless
+decorations, and jewelled dowagers nodding
+over the table, with a sprinkling of youthful
+<em><span lang="fr">attachés</span></em> and officers filling up the corners. Later
+in the evening I went to a ball at the rooms of
+the Artists’ Club, and danced a little.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, I must rush out, one is always hurried
+here, as I have before observed. My next will
+probably be from Moscow, where I can give you
+an account of our cousin Eliza, and deliver her
+your present; also, the Kremlin, and the tea-drinking
+gardens. A hard snow storm which looks like
+continuing.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Adieu.&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Ross Winans.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In a letter from my mother visiting Baltimore
+in 1852, to my sister and myself in Boston, she
+wrote:—“This morning we have been to see the
+most superb house in the country, built by a gentleman
+of the name of Winans, who has been
+employed by the Russian government in the construction
+of railroads and cars, and has made an
+immense fortune.” This letter was sealed according
+to the custom of the time with a red wafer.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Ross Winans, a native of New Jersey, was an
+inventor and manufacturer of railroad machines
+in Baltimore, and undertook the Russian railroads
+by the advice of George W. Whistler. He died
+in Baltimore, in 1877, at the age of eighty-one.
+He had two sons who went to Russia; Thomas
+de Kay, who died in Newport, R. I., June 11, 1878,
+aged fifty-eight, and William Louis, who never
+returned to this country, but went to England
+after the completion of the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg and
+Moscow railroad, and died in London, June 25,
+1897, aged seventy-five.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER FIFTH.<br> <span class='c010'>MOSCOW. THE CITY AND ENVIRONS.<br> TROTTING IN RUSSIA.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c002'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Say, Mandarin, fresh from the Orient old,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Will they give us the queue when they give us the gold?</div>
+ <div class='line'>Rise, Curtin, arise! Let the Manchu declare—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is he under the paw of the Great Northern Bear?</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>You uncovered the Pole, brought Pan Michael to light,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Ran Sienkievitch down through the vast polar night;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Then, skirting the coast to the isles of the Celt,</div>
+ <div class='line'>You caught the sweet ballads that make the heart melt,</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Thus linking two worlds. Nate Appleton tried,</div>
+ <div class='line'>But the Gulf was too deep, or the Isthmus too wide.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Brother Pratt had the keynote—he doesn’t know which,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Art, music, the lingo of Ivanovitch.”</div>
+ <div class='line in31'>—<em>James Herbert Morse.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Harvard College Class of 1863. Poem at Class Dinner of
+1901.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to Moscow.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The journey from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to Moscow
+is a long ride, and in winter when the days are
+short, seems to be a night which will never end.
+You take the train in the afternoon and have not
+accomplished many scores of versts, or disposed
+of many hours, before twilight fades into dark,
+and the great snow plain on every side loses its
+brilliant whiteness, and has a grey and mysterious
+look. So, too, in the morning, though late, the
+sun is not more than fairly up when you behold
+in the distance the gilded domes and fairy minarets
+of the old Russian metropolis, as they first appear,
+and you feel that at last you are in the heart of
+the Empire. But the hours passed in the cars
+are far from tedious. “Car” is the word that can
+be used, for those on that railroad line much more
+resembled what we have in the United States, than
+anything to be found in Europe. They were
+divided into small rooms or compartments, a large
+saloon being left in the middle, and a passage
+going the length of the car, so that you could pass
+from one end to the other, and get off on either
+platform. At that time no regular beds were
+made up, as in our “sleepers,” but the cushions
+could be comfortably arranged and the weary
+traveller repose very satisfactorily. There was,
+too, a room overhead for smoking, which you
+entered by climbing up a narrow, ladder-like staircase,
+and where the fragrant Havana could be
+enjoyed in security. Double doors and windows
+kept out the excessive cold, and a good stove
+plentifully supplied with wood made the temperature
+within all that was to be desired. The
+buffets on the road could not be excelled, and a
+<em><span lang="fr">table d’hôte</span></em> dinner was taken at one of the stations
+about six o’clock, which offered a glittering array
+of glass and silver as you entered on leaving the
+train, while the display of viands alone would
+tempt one, were he not ravenous with travel.</p>
+
+<div id='i_100' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_100.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>THE KREMLIN, MOSCOW.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>The occupants of the car, in an easy fellow-feeling
+way, soon get acquainted with each other,
+and throwing off the reserve they might otherwise
+have, mix together in democratic freedom.
+Their nationalities are soon known, if not their
+names, for there is always one man aboard who
+has a knack of finding them out and of communicating
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>adroitly his information to the others,
+and stories of travelling adventures in different
+countries, with accounts of the queer persons met,
+and the dangers escaped, beguile the hours.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg is entirely a modern city, and
+a modern city like other European capitals, or,
+rather, like the modern parts of them. The
+stranger going there expects, very naturally, to
+see predominant the stamp of Muscovite nationality
+but he does not find it, as the principal public
+buildings were designed by foreign architects, and
+show plainly traces of the country from which
+the brain that gave them birth has come.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Moscow, fortunately, is quite different, and is
+well worthy of being the place where the Tsars
+are crowned. Any one who dropped down their
+blindfold would, as soon as the bandage was
+removed from his eyes, cry out like the soldiers
+of Napoleon’s army, as its green roofs and gilded
+cupolas met their anxious gaze, “Moscow, Moscow!”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>No city in the world has a more marked style,
+which is neither of the East nor of the West, but
+rather suggestions of both. Constantinople, Venice,
+Vienna, all can be seen in part, and as you look
+at it calmly, in awe and admiration, you can only
+say, “This place is unique, it resembles nothing
+else,” and you know why it is so, in reflecting that
+here is the old homestead of the great Slavonic
+race, a race sufficiently different from all others
+to be well warranted in leaving one typical city
+as a monument.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>First Letter from Moscow.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>To my mother from Moscow I wrote as follows:—I
+cannot date this as there is no French paper
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>about, and also, what with the Russian and our
+difference in the calendar, time is considerably
+mixed up. This cannot be better shown than
+by the agreeable fact that we have two Christmas
+Days this year, one which we passed in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg,
+and the other which comes next week, when
+we are to see a real German Christmas tree at the
+Carnatzes.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Well, then to begin, Mrs. Appleton, we are now
+in Moscow, a truly Russian city, and as different
+to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg as Boston is to Paris. We left
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P. on Saturday afternoon, and after a journey
+of hours, with several Americans in the train, we
+arrived here, and are comfortably established in
+the Hotel Dusaux.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I first went to find Curtin, my old classmate and
+the secretary of our Legation, who was much surprised
+at seeing me, and said he would do his best
+possible to make our stay pleasant. We then
+called on my cousin Eliza Carnatz, and had no
+difficulty in finding her and making ourselves
+known, and she was delighted at seeing her relatives
+and appreciated your present, which I am
+happy to say has finally reached its destination
+safely. This picture (The letter-head showing a
+colored view of the Kremlin.) will do for your
+scrap book, so I will leave it entire.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the evening Curtin took us to a Russian
+party, and I think I passed about the pleasantest
+evening there in Europe. It was at the house of
+General Behring, a lineal descendant of the one
+who discovered the Straits, and the <em><span lang="fr">soirée</span></em> began
+with private theatricals in Russian and French,
+afterwards dancing, then the mazourka, then a
+sit down supper, the universal custom at parties
+here, and finally the <em>cotillon</em>, something as with
+us, and home between four and five.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>The General received us with charming cordiality,
+and would make us believe we were doing
+him a favor in coming, and his lovely daughters,—their
+mother being dead,—acted well in the plays,
+and did the honors of the house most gracefully.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There were several pretty Russian young ladies
+there, and many were the sentiments and toasts
+for the friendship between Russia and America,
+the two great rising nations of the world!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The young ladies here nearly all speak English
+well, besides French, German, Russian, and also,
+sometimes, Italian. This is true of many of the
+young men, too, and although this seems to make
+us very ignorant, still, in the matter of general
+education, the classics, philosophy, mathematics,
+etc., I imagine we are their superiors. Moreover,
+languages are almost a necessity here, while with
+us they are only a very desirable luxury.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Wednesday p. m.: The day after the ball we
+did not rise much before dinner time, when we
+dined with the Carnatzes. The party consisted
+of Coz. Eliza and husband, Mr. Watson, the
+father of his first wife, a brother, a French lady
+friend, and one or two others. It seemed quite
+natural there, as there were several family portraits
+on the walls, and her album was filled with
+photographs of all of us. We had a quietly
+pleasant evening, with long chats about Russia
+and America, family events, literature, politics,—and
+drank tea indefinitely.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russian Tea-drinking.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Tea is the national drink of the Russians, and
+a genuine tea-drinking restaurant is very curious.
+We went to one the other evening which is the
+resort of the <em>isvoschiks</em> (cabbies) and the peasants.
+Your true Russ orders a pot of tea and another
+larger one of hot water, the latter of which is often
+replenished, and he will sit over it several hours,
+drinking fifteen or twenty cups of tea, and not
+finishing until he can get no more color out of it.
+What do your delicate nerves think of this?</p>
+
+<div id='i_104' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_104.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>DRINKING TEA.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>The tea is wonderfully good, and the commonest
+stuff here would put to the blush the very best
+hotel article in America and much of that you
+have at family tea parties also.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday morning we went with Mr. Young,
+a very pleasant and attentive young American
+from Niagara, who has been here several years in
+the business of agricultural implements, to see
+the Kremlin, and all the big bells therein, which
+are truly wonderful, and can make much noise
+when they try, and in the evening to the Carnatz’s
+box at the ballet of the Grand Theatre. The
+building is considered, perhaps, the finest in
+Europe, and the ballet itself as is always in Russia,
+remarkably fine. After the ballet Charlie and
+I went to a ball at the Kosakoff’s, where we had
+a good idea of a fine Moscow house and the Muscovite
+<em><span lang="fr">beau monde</span></em>. Dancing, supper, music, etc.,
+and finally I had for my partner in the German
+cotillon the prettiest girl in Moscow, a Miss Martinoff.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Fast Trotters in Moscow.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We went out today to the race course, where
+they often have races in sleighs, and saw the sports
+of Moscow exercising their fast trotters. The
+scene was very like ours at home, and we conversed
+on the relative merits of Russian and American
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>trotters, and one enthusiastic old Russ wanted
+to bet two hundred thousand roubles on his country,
+so that if I buy and import “Dexter” (The
+fastest trotter of the time.) I can make a goodly
+sum.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Snow Hills.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The snow hills are a national institution on the
+same principle as our coasting, only the hills are
+artificial and are all ice, and you take a lady on
+the sled with you, and dash down like the wind.
+There are two hills opposite, so that they go from
+one to the other and then return.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Remembrance to all,</div>
+ <div class='line in16'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Carnatz Connection.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>My diary when a boy of fourteen had the following
+entry:—“January 16, 1858. Our Russian
+cousin sent us some nice things; among them were
+a malachite pin and sleeve buttons, and one of
+the medals thrown to the peasants at the coronation
+of the present Emperor Alexander.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>My mother’s mother, Mrs. Jesse Sumner, was
+a daughter of Mrs. Nathaniel Coffin, whose son
+Thomas established himself in business in Moscow
+about 1829, and died in Perovo, Russia, in
+1832. His daughter Eliza married Mr. Carnatz,
+a German. In 1870, we received the intelligence
+that they proposed to remove to Dresden.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Carnatz Children.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Nothing has ever shown me more conclusively
+how easy it is for children, when very young, to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>learn and speak several languages, than my experience
+with my little Carnatz cousins. Of course
+being Russians by birth, that may naturally have
+been their first language, but their mother, who
+insisted upon being an American, the country of her
+father, had them at once instructed, probably by
+herself, in the English tongue. Then her husband,
+their father, being a German the language of the
+Fatherland had its proper place. After that came
+French, which was the cosmopolitan language of
+all well-to-do people in the Russian empire. They
+could rattle off these various languages “as easily
+as rolling off a log,” and so can any one who begins
+them in childhood.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Russian Mansion.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>A good type of the elegant Russian mansion
+was large, made of wood and only two stories,
+with a long array of rooms running <em><span lang="fr">en suite</span></em>. At
+the door stood the ever watchful porter, ready
+to take the <em>shubes</em> and overshoes of the guests,
+and never forgetting to whom each belonged,
+resplendent in his showy livery with the eagles
+embroidered in the wide border of his cape, looking
+the picture of comfort as he stood by the blazing
+fire, the thermometer outside showing a temperature
+well below the zero of Fahrenheit.
+Beyond him, at the foot of the stairs, a huge,
+stuffed black bear stood erect, in his paws a salver,
+with a pitcher and glasses, as if bidding you welcome
+to the hospitalities of the house.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The City and its Environs.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We went on many excursions in the city and
+its environs. The Kremlin, with its endless interesting
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>objects, the churches so numerous that they
+say there is one for every day in the year, and
+the old historical monuments from which can be
+gleaned a knowledge of all the phases from barbarism
+to civilization through which the vast
+Muscovite nationality has passed, were carefully
+and intelligently studied. We would ramble for
+hours through the curious bazaar, the Gostinny
+Dvor, gazing at the different wares exposed, talking
+and bargaining with the shrewd Jew shopkeepers,
+and picking up many curiosities, from
+Persian talismans to Siberian rugs, which had
+found their way to this cosmopolitan mart in
+boats through the Caspian Sea and up the curving
+Volga River, or in caravans all along the dreary
+plains and through the steep mountain ranges,
+from the interior of China and Hindostan. Malachite
+from the mines in the Ural Mountains,
+fragrant packages of high-priced tea, chain-armor
+from Circassia, and quaint Albanian gems, gorgeous
+colored silks, pipes of every description, in short,
+a perfect medley of <em>bric-a-brac</em>, we hunted up
+leisurely, sending daily some newly discovered
+treasure to our collections.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Trotting in Russia.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The trotting during the winter months takes
+place on the ice, when a large river or pond is
+accessible; as, for instance, on the Neva itself at
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, which is the favorite place of all.
+But a well made track on the frozen snow is nearly,
+if not quite, as good, and this can be found and
+laid out anywhere. The course, which is one or
+two versts long,—the Russian verst is 3501 English
+feet,—is in the form of an ellipse; that is, the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>length of two of the curving sides is much greater
+than that of the other two, as is often seen in
+American tracks, where a long and narrow piece
+of ground only can be obtained. But now comes
+the great peculiarity of the Russian race, which
+is, that the horses do not start or trot together.
+One starts from a line in the centre of one of the
+long sides of the course, while the other starts
+from a line exactly opposite and on the other side.
+Should there be four horses entered they have two
+parallel tracks close to each other, and for six
+horses three of these ellipses, and so on. When
+there is more than one track the effect is most
+peculiar: for, at the signal for starting, the horses
+all seem to be rushing off in different directions.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Then, too, the horses all start from a standstill,
+each one toeing the line before the word “go” is
+given. Of course, in this system, there is not the
+excitement of seeing the horses together, changing
+places, now one ahead, and now another; those who
+break held in, and all trying to secure and keep
+the pole from the others. They merely trot round
+the course at their greatest speed and the one
+which returns to his goal or starting point first,
+is declared the winner. In case of breaking, a
+certain number of steps at a gallop only is allowed
+during the heat, and any horse that is not brought
+down into this allotted number is thrown out of
+the races by the judges, and loses his chance. It
+is common to have a running horse by the side
+of the trotter to excite him to his utmost speed,
+but generally this horse is not harnessed, but is
+mounted by a skillful rider, who keeps close alongside
+of the other, knowing exactly the pace at
+which he can go without breaking.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The sleighs used are very light, seemingly made
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>of some kind of basket-work, and also very low,
+the driver being seated not more than a foot off
+the ground or snow, bracing himself with his feet
+in a sort of stirrup on either side. Low vehicles
+are also used for racing on the gravel track, and
+primitive they are in appearance, a narrow board
+supported on the axles, with four small wheels
+nearly the same size, and the American twowheeled
+spider-sulky has come into use, as the
+small wheeled vehicles detract from the speed, on
+account of a badly regulated centre of gravity and
+excessive friction.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>For getting the greatest pulling power out of
+the horse with the least fatigue, and leaving all
+the muscles unimpeded and in full play, the Russian
+method of harnessing is excellent. The shafts
+of the <em>drosky</em> or sleigh, the collar of the horse and
+the duga meet at one point on the horse’s shoulder,
+and at this point is all the strain of pulling. There
+are neither traces nor breeching to interfere with
+the action. The collar, made of wood, is carefully
+fitted to the horse’s neck, and while the shafts
+are inclined to press it <em>against</em> the neck, the duga
+exerts a corresponding pressure out on either side,
+and these three parts of the harness are so lashed
+together by leather thongs that they remain firmly
+in place, and it is a rare sight to find a horse with
+his neck galled from exercise.</p>
+
+<div id='i_110' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_110.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>A COURSIER.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The horses are put on the track very young, at
+the age of two, three or four years, and after that
+time, are found rather to lose than increase their
+speed. Perhaps there may be peculiarities in the
+breed which gives them their greatest strength
+when young, or it may be the climate brings out
+forces which in milder regions it takes more time
+to develop. Certain it is that the Russian horse,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>of which the Orloff is the handsomest type, when
+taken to a foreign country soon loses his grace of
+action and fire. At home they are the <em><span lang="fr">beau ideal</span></em>
+of beauty, with great natural knee action, arching
+necks, distended nostrils and flashing eyes, but it
+has often happened that the same horse which
+would attract the attention of every passer by on
+the Nevski Prospect, when seen in the Bois de
+Boulogne or Hyde Park has lost his distinguishing
+traits and seems but an ordinary animal.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>As there is always a question as to the beauty
+of “banging” the horse’s tail in accordance with
+the English taste, or of leaving the natural growth
+as was more common in America some years ago
+than at present, I would state that the tail in Russia
+is left as nature made it, long and waving, and
+sometimes even trailing on the ground. And for
+another disputed question, whether or not it is
+beneficial to clip the horse in winter, without
+touching on the numerous arguments which humanity,
+convenience and preference have brought plausibly
+up on either side, I will simply say that in
+Russia it is the universal rule to leave the horses,
+whether they be for work or for pleasure, with the
+long-haired coat, God has given them, untouched
+all through the months when they need some protection
+against the cold.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To Harness a Horse a la Russe.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>First put on the bridle, which is merely a headstall
+without blinders. Saddle and surcingle together.
+Collar and breeching together. Put the
+horse in the shafts and put on the hoop, strapping
+the shafts and hoop together with a long
+strap, which is afterwards wound around the shafts.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>There is a strap on each shaft just opposite the
+saddle. The one on the left shaft goes over the
+saddle, passing through rings, and is wound around
+the right shaft. The one on the right shaft goes
+through loops under the surcingle and is wound
+around the left shaft. These straps help to keep
+the shafts firmly in place. The horse pulls from
+his collar. The ends of the shafts and hoop must
+just meet, the hoop going inside of the shafts and
+pressing them out. Of the four straps from the
+top of the hoop, two go under the check strap and
+fasten to the bit ring, and the other two, with the
+loops through which the reins pass, are fastened
+to the shafts, behind the hoop. The bit should
+be simple snaffle.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The running horse is on the left side. A strap
+goes from his bit to the shaft of the wheeler, passing
+through the martingale ring. This strap is
+quite long, and gives him considerable play. The
+rein, <em>only one</em>, goes from the outside ring of the bit.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>For a pair of horses there are no saddles. The
+traces are fastened to leather rings on the collar.
+A surcingle is fastened on the traces and passes
+under each horse, close behind his forelegs.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>They always drive with four reins but this is
+useless.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The ridiculous custom of having blinders over
+the horse’s eyes is unknown to the Russians,
+except as imported from other countries. The
+animal is allowed to see for himself on all sides,
+pleasant or ugly sights, and is not treated like an
+infant, whom his human doctors suppose is going
+to be frightened at what may meet his gaze. Sensible
+both for horse and man is this, as the former
+doubtless derives pleasure in his way from the
+sights of the street or the scenery of the country,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>while the latter enjoys seeing what is one of the
+finest points of a horse—his eye.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Check reins are happily not a part of the Russian
+harness.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The men who congregate about the race-course
+are pretty nearly the same types in all the nations
+of the world. There are the elaborate dandies,
+known as <em><span lang="fr">petits crévès</span></em> in France, who go because
+it is the fashion to see and be seen, whether or not
+they have any taste for the racing itself, and can
+tell one horse from another. There are gentlemen
+who really are devoted to the noble animal,
+who are interested in improving the breeds, and
+who, if possessed of fortune, generally have some
+of their own stock taking part in the races. Then
+comes the sporting fraternity of all degrees, horse
+dealers sharp for making a good bargain in buying
+or selling, trainers, jockeys, stable boys and besides
+them plenty of loafers who are there for betting
+on the race, or for “turning an honest (?) penny”
+in any way that their wits suggest.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to my Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Moscow, Dec. 27, 1866. This is dated by the
+Russian calendar, which is just twelve days behind
+ours, so you can calculate. I have a few minutes
+before going to dine with Cousin Eliza to begin
+this and I will dip promiscuously into some of the
+events of the past week.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Christmas Tree.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Let me see,—Christmas has come and gone for
+the second time this year, and we have seen the
+way it is done in Russia. It is the same old story—a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span>tree, <em><span lang="fr">arbre de Noël</span></em>,—everywhere, though the custom
+has been brought here by the Germans.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went to the Carnatzes about half-past seven,
+and they being German of course all the arrangements
+were <em><span lang="fr">a la mode Allemande</span></em>. The tree always
+comes off Christmas eve, and is generally a family
+gathering, gotten up especially for the amusement
+of the little ones. A large tree just like ours at
+home, greeted our gaze on entering, placed on a
+table, brilliantly lighted, covered with all kinds of
+things, bonbons, gold balls, etc., topped off with
+an American flag in compliment to us. The presents
+were all lying around on tables, and the tree
+remains untouched for a week, so that poor children
+can come in and enjoy it on different days.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Charlie and I were not forgotten, and we received
+each a portfolio filled with different views of Moscow.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Every guest, on leaving, also, takes a huge box
+filled with almonds, sugar plums, cakes, etc., etc.,
+quite enough to make you ill for a week. The
+party was not very large, and we broke up just
+before midnight to go to the French Catholic
+church to hear the mass, but the place was jammed,
+and we did not stay long. Charlie and I then
+jumped into our sleigh, and the great bells of the
+Kremlin and the neighboring churches were booming
+all around.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Patriarchal Cathedral.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We wended our way up the hill and pushed into
+the Patriarchal Cathedral of Russia, where all the
+Tsars are crowned, and here we saw the Russian
+mass. The crowd was so dense that it was impossible
+to penetrate more than a few feet into the
+church, and we soon left.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Bath.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>One evening last week we did the Russian bath.
+It is perfectly delicious, a general steaming all over
+first, and then you are bodily champooed by the
+careful attendant,—the soap suds being, so to
+speak, whipped in with a bunch of rushes flourished
+round you,—and then recline at your ease,
+as long as you please, and finally cool off with
+differently moderated showers of water.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We have made the acquaintance of a Mr. Arnoldi,
+who has a charming wife. He is a great lover of
+horse flesh, and took us over a stable, where we
+saw splendid specimens of the different types of
+the Russian horse, and afterwards we went to the
+trotting track and saw the sports with their fast
+trotters. The scene was not unlike Riverside
+Park at home, and very interesting to me. They
+want to get up international races.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We afterwards dined with Mr. A., quite <em><span lang="fr">en famille</span></em>.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Mazourka.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We have been to another party at the aunt’s
+of my lovely Miss M—, and I again watched her
+going through the graceful slides of the mazourka.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There are two public balls every night now during
+the holidays, sometimes a masquerade at the
+Nobility Club or the Grand Opera, or again a
+dance or concert at the German Club, and so on,
+but the masquerades, after Paris, are tame.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The holidays are much made of here, and every
+one celebrates them by getting tipsy, for the Russian,
+besides his everlasting tea, also manages to
+dispose of considerable <em>vodki</em>, the alcoholic drink
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span>of the country. (Spelled <em>vodki</em> and <em>vodka</em>, distilled
+from rye, also from potatoes.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>To a hard working Yankee it is odd, the slowness
+and want of ambition of all. For instance,
+Sunday is a holiday, and the day before he prepares
+himself for it, and the day after he gets sober,
+and as there is on the average one fête day during
+the week, when the same game is tried, it does not
+leave many days for work.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Off to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Thus you see the days slip along on golden wings,
+and your <em>flâneur</em> looks with horror on the bore of
+packing up his traps, but we may be off on Saturday
+to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I have your letter No. 11,
+with the Boston gayeties. I will get you some
+nice postage stamps some time, but for the present
+these will suffice. Accept, also, the photograph
+of Chawls and myself <em><span lang="fr">à la Russe</span></em>, with the
+Kremlin in the background, and us in the front,
+done up in our <em>shubes</em> and boots, and waiting the
+approach of many bears. (See frontispiece.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Fear not for our ears and noses now, for although
+the thermometer keeps down steadily in the region
+of “Niblo” (Meaning zero, an old joke of First
+Lieutenant Peleg W. Blake of the Fifth Mass.
+Battery, who when speaking of the weather always
+called zero “Niblo,”) we are much more comfortable
+in the streets than we are at home, where it
+seems to be the fashion to be cold always out of
+doors.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The photographs of Moscow are the best in the
+world. (I had never seen such beautifully glazed
+ones at that time.) We do not get much news
+here about Americans, as there is no French paper
+in Moscow, and even if there were there would be
+no time to read it, we are in such a whirl of excitement.
+Going to bed at four gives you a short
+morning.</p>
+
+<div id='i_117' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_117.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>THE STAIGG PORTRAIT.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>I read the President’s (Johnson’s) message with
+interest, and great satisfaction in regard to everything
+except the internal politics of the United
+States. How pleasant, too, is the report of the
+Treasury. People here look upon our diminishing
+debt with perfect amazement. Indeed the influence
+which our country is giving to the world is
+more perceptible every day and very noticeable
+here.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We are of course much interested in the great
+yacht race, and want brother Tom to come over
+in the Spring, and give the graceful little <em>Alice</em>
+another wetting in the Channel. Tell him she
+must not go home in May. I want to sail in her
+once in the summer. What a carnival there will
+be in Paris, and how much nicer to be a “swell”
+in Moscow than an individual in the former.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Well, adieu.&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston.</span></h3>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Staigg Portrait.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Dec. 27, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>You can judge of my amazement, my excitement,
+on going up to the drawing-room after
+dinner on Christmas Day, to find before my eyes
+a portrait of you, my dear Nathan, gracefully
+standing with your arm holding the bridle of your
+horse, and looking so like life that I really started,
+reading the announcement, put on by Hattie:—“By
+Atlantic Telegraph, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. A Merry
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>Christmas!”—Why, I felt that it had actually
+come from there! It is a charming picture. What
+a villain you are! Of course it is not finished,
+and is to go back to have some alterations.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Oh you sly boy! Coming up from Lynn (Our
+summer home at the beach.) every day to give me
+this delightful surprise! <em>I thank you.</em></p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We had a charming Christmas dinner, and, will
+you believe it? the presents for the third time were
+so hid they had great difficulty in finding them,
+and some were obliged to be told.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>New Year’s Day in Moscow.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Russia'>Russ.</abbr>, January 2, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I begin you this, Dear “Mum,” from Moscow,
+but I may finish it in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Children
+of chance, that we are, how dare we calculate on
+even the events of a few days? With this moral
+question at the beginning, I will tell you that we
+are still here, and have been through various
+adventures. Among others was the dedication
+of a church in the Russo Greek style, and the
+magnates of the city thought we had better see
+it. I did not object, as a dinner formed an important
+feature. Accordingly, one of the selectmen
+of Moscow routed us out of bed, and I gave him
+audience in my <em><span lang="fr">robe de nuit</span></em>, and after he had conversed
+some time in Russ he thought matters
+would be expedited by an interpreter. I soon
+discovered that his sleigh was at the door, and
+that he wanted us to be off, so I hastened, and
+was ready,—Charlie following in our sleigh with
+Curtin.—He wore a medal and his horse was a
+high stepper. We soon reached the church, and
+had standing places of honor, <em>vide</em> Moscow <cite>Gazette</cite>
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>of the next day with our distinguished names in
+Russian print,—for above three and a half hours,
+and we were not sorry to rattle off to the good
+dinner, which the opulent merchant, who had
+given the church, had had prepared for his guests.
+The lunch was stunning, entirely <em><span lang="fr">à la Russe</span></em>, with
+some little wrinkles I mean to remember, and the
+<em>menu</em> on very gorgeous frosted paper, and a photograph
+of the church under each plate. We returned
+from our day’s work very much satisfied.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The society of this place is quite funny. We
+have got into the very “swell” little clique of the
+town, the Faubourg Saint Beacon Street of Moscow,
+and like the same set in our own blessed
+“Hub,” it is a close oligarchy with an endless
+array of cousins. The other evening we saw a
+most pretty phase of the holidays. About twenty
+young ladies and cavaliers of this set, with one or
+two matrons, went round the town in masquerade
+with fancy domino costumes, stopping at half a
+dozen different houses, at each of which they would
+dance once, with a supper later. Chawls and I
+went to two of the houses to see them and the
+effect was stunning; a postillion rushing in first,
+and then the others following in couples, Poles,
+Spaniards, and Tartars, Folly, a Cook, a Baby and
+her Nurse, &#38;c., and so on. The coachman and
+footman, even, were in mask, to make the disguise
+as complete as possible, but we soon discovered
+our friends.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I think we will try it in Boston next winter.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The society of the merchant families is quite
+another set, but as they have the money now their
+entertainments are on a most gorgeous scale.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>New Year’s Day.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>After all how like people are in all countries.
+This is well shown by yesterday, the Russian New
+Year’s Day. We got up a very “swell” trap,—a
+trotter and a runner by his side,—and went about
+slaughtering all our acquaintances. It was precisely
+the same as in New York, except that they
+gave you no grub anywhere, nor wine, though we
+did see one inebriate youth driving off. Every
+one always drives about the city and you get into
+the state of being unable to walk ten steps. You
+wo’n’t do it. Sleighs are very cheap, and the distances
+are very great, so that you keep your sleigh
+about you as an indispensable companion, from
+twelve noon until after midnight. The coachman
+follows you round like a dog, merely going off to
+feed his horses some time in the afternoon. With
+all this it is strange that the Russians never drive
+themselves, and no matter how fine the horses of
+the gay youth of the city, and how elegant his
+equipage, the coachman always drives. Perhaps
+this is because horses are a necessity, not a luxury,
+and having to drive so much every day you do not
+care to do it yourself. I think I, myself, with all
+my fondness for horses, would soon be indisposed
+to drive in Russia.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russian Groom.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The “swell” groom here has a <em>chic</em> quite his own,
+and totally different from the London “tiger,”
+which has spread over the rest of the continent
+and America. My “Tom,” with his neat tights
+and top boots, carefully trimmed whiskers and
+square shoulders is very different from your
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span>bearded Russian coachman, the stouter the better,
+with lozenged-shaped, pin-cushion like, velvet hat,
+long tunic with a gorgeous colored sash and big
+boots. They drive with both arms stretched out
+at full length, and have four reins for a single pair
+of horses.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Tuesday, p.m.: I will finish this off now and
+take it on with me to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, tomorrow,
+to mail it there, as we have decided to change our
+base, in fact, having slaughtered all the fair ones of
+Moscow, and having left a good impression, it is
+much better to make our bows and retire quickly.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have been skating today and yesterday with a
+most bright and attractive young lady, the Princess
+G—— (Princess Julie Gagarine now for years
+Madame la Princesse Ourousoff, one of the same
+great family represented at the Races on the Newport
+beach in 1866.) a cousin of the beautiful Miss
+M——. Being in mourning we have not seen her in
+society. She goes to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg in a few days
+where we shall meet her again.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We go to our last party tonight. Private theatricals
+and a ball afterwards. Last evening a
+<em><span lang="fr">soirée musicale</span></em> at the Martinoffs, and a dance later
+at another house.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We go to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg to be quiet(?) as you
+imagine, and we shall arrive just in time for the
+“Blessing of the Neva,” breakfast at the Winter
+Palace, Review of Troops, etc., etc., and from now
+until Lent we shall have all we want of gayety.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Adieu, oh Moscow! with thy Kremlin and gilded
+turrets, thy fair princesses, thy fast horses, thy
+caviar and thy mazourka. Fain would we linger
+here, but the hand of time points onward, and the
+vague sensation of joys now past, vibrates in the
+brain!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>I have some little packages for you and Hattie
+from Coz. Eliza, which will I hope reach you safely
+some day. I am off now to bid her good bye.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Sister in Boston.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>January 8, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your letter from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg arrived by the
+same steamer that brought Mr. Burgess and little
+Billy’s blue suit, for both of which many thanks.
+I wish you could see the little man in the jacket
+and cap, he looks awful cunning, and the color just
+suits his complexion. They are just the right size,
+and all beholders say “How remarkable that a
+young man like Mr. Appleton should know just
+what to get for a baby like that!”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The worsted work for the old lady was also a
+great success. She thinks it the funniest thing she
+ever saw. And all this page and not a word yet
+about the picture!</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Staigg Portrait. The Surprise.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>... I took Elias (The old family servant.)
+into the secret, and he was so important, and so
+excited with it that I never expected he would get
+through waiting on table that dinner, without
+smashing something. You know we got it into the
+house very quietly, during church time, and hid it
+on the back piazza, and Elias got it up into the
+drawing-room while we were eating dinner, and
+coming down made such telegraphic signals that
+Erny (Ernest Longfellow) who was next me, said,
+“What has come over Elias? he is winking and
+making such faces at you. There’s some immense
+secret!”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span>As I had not my “eyes” on it was unfortunately
+thrown away. When Mamma did get up and saw
+it, she was fairly terrified, apparently thinking you
+were there yourself in some incomprehensible way.
+I don’t know but she will pull down “Rosalie” to
+have a place to hang it. Brother Tom takes a
+great interest in it, and brings artists to see it, who
+mostly think it Staigg’s best work.... Dear
+me. I have not told you about the piano we are
+having constructed to match our book cases, and
+with Mr. Staigg’s first sketch of you inserted in a
+panel,—truly lovely!</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>On the 11th My Mother Wrote</span>:—</h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Your brother Tom has just been in to read a
+letter from Charlie. He was quite excited in hearing
+about Russia, and really wished he was with
+you to enjoy something so new. He would have
+been a great addition, and talked French and made
+everything as jolly as possible. He hopes that
+you have made known that you were officers in the
+army and wounded men, and I trust it is understood
+that C. A. L. is son of the “great poet.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your letters stir us all up, and though this is not
+a regular writing day, I could not resist telling you
+how much we enjoy hearing from you.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The “presentation” must have been rather a
+trial, not speaking French fluently. How T. G. A.
+would have rattled it off! He rather wonders that
+he came home. Of course the yachting will take
+him out in the Spring. We have now fine sleighing,
+and he is every day on the Brighton road, but
+not a “fascinating hood” is to be seen; all the
+women with veils tied tight over their faces. T. G.
+A. drives his pair and has some damsels with him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span>Monday Eve: Little Billy (Curtis) came to see
+his Grandma this morning in full French costume;
+his pretty blue coat and hat, and Astrachan fur.
+It is lovely and very becoming to the little man.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>All are so charmed with your picture. It gives
+life and light to the old house. I cannot bear to
+part with it, and I believe Staigg does not consider
+it finished.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I am glad you have nice quiet apartments, and
+are not at a hotel. Please be moderate, and do not
+dash about and make yourself conspicuous. It is
+foreign to the family name.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter from Geo. B. Shattuck.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Boston. January 8, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>A visit to No. 39, a few days since, and the
+exhibition of your portrait by Staigg, spurred me
+up to an undertaking which I have long been proposing
+to myself, answering a letter which you
+wrote to me before your departure and after mine
+from San Francisco, and which was forwarded to
+me here.... I was much pleased with your
+picture, and thought it an excellent likeness for the
+number of sittings I was told you had.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Of course, as is the duty of a good artist, he
+exerts his best effort that your personal pulchritude
+may not suffer, and the war-horse, etc. is rather in
+the style of General Washington. You ought to
+have had your negro “Joe” brought into the
+picture holding the charger. The horse, as well as
+I could judge from a short inspection, is well done,
+and surprisingly so, if, as Mrs. Appleton told me,
+this is Staigg’s first horse. I speak so at length as
+I suppose the thing to have been completed since
+you left home.”</p>
+
+<div id='i_125' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_125.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>ROSALIE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Allston’s Rosalie.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>The picture of “Rosalie” by Washington Allston,
+mentioned in my sister’s letter as hanging in the
+drawing-room at 39 Beacon street, and to which
+the author addressed some exquisite verses, became
+mine after the death of my father, at whose request
+it was painted.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was in 1835, that my half-sister, the wife of
+the poet Longfellow, then Miss Frances Elizabeth
+Appleton, made a copy, which I now have in her
+own handwriting, of the following verse which was
+added by Allston some time after the original three
+verses were composed:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“So, at that dreamy hour of day</div>
+ <div class='line'>When the last lingering ray</div>
+ <div class='line'>Stops on the highest cloud to play,</div>
+ <div class='line'>So thought the gentle Rosalie,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As in her maiden reverie,</div>
+ <div class='line'>First fell the strain of him who stole</div>
+ <div class='line'>In music to her soul.”</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>The original three verses are as follows:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Oh! pour upon my soul again</div>
+ <div class='line'>That sad unearthly strain</div>
+ <div class='line'>That seems from other worlds to plain;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Thus falling, falling, from afar,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As if some melancholy star</div>
+ <div class='line'>Had mingled with her light her sighs,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And dropped them from the skies.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>No—’tis not born of aught below,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That melting breath of wo</div>
+ <div class='line'>Which now doth o’er my spirit flow;</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Waking the deeply-seated springs</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of silent joy; that round me flings</div>
+ <div class='line'>This nameless light—if light it be—</div>
+ <div class='line'>That veils the world I see.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>For every form around me wears</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The hue of other spheres:</div>
+ <div class='line'>And something mixed of smiles and tears</div>
+ <div class='line'>Comes from the very air I breathe.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Oh, nothing, sure, the stars beneath</div>
+ <div class='line'>Can mold a sadness like to this—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>So like angelic bliss.”&#8196; &#8196; —<em>Wa. Allston.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>These three verses have the signature as given
+above, in the copy in my possession. To the
+peculiar circumstances under which the picture was
+painted, an allusion is made in a letter to my
+brother Tom in Paris, by Mr. Tom Kemper Davis
+in Boston, a member of the legal profession with a
+strong leaning toward literary pursuits.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Thomas Sully.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“Sully, the artist,” he wrote, “is in town. I
+went with him yesterday and bowed at the shrine
+of the divine ‘Rosalie’. Sully’s first exclamation,
+after gazing some time at the picture, was,—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>‘Raphael and Titian combined!’</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Allston, by the way, has in conversation with me
+frequently alluded to your father’s purchase of this
+picture, and as I never heard him allude before to
+any like transaction. The manner in which the
+thing was done seems to have touched his heart.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When they went to see it, the picture hung in the
+drawing-room of our old house, 39 Beacon street.
+That the artist Sully may have had a personal
+interest in the “Rosalie,” was suggested to me by
+a letter from the pen of a Washington correspondent
+of the New York <cite>Daily Graphic</cite>, signed “Mary
+E. Nealy,” which I chanced to see. I, being then
+in London, addressed a letter to this correspondent
+from 449 Strand, the Reading Room and Exchange
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>of Robert Bowles, dated October 26, 1875, in the
+following words:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“I noticed in a recent number of the <cite>Graphic</cite>, a
+letter of yours from Washington, in which you
+gave quite a long account of a collection of pictures
+painted by Sully. My attention was attracted to
+it by what you say of ‘Rosalie’, and the verses
+written by Allston, because I am the owner of the
+painting of ‘Rosalie’, which Washington Allston
+painted, and for which he wrote the verses.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This picture was painted for my late father and
+hung by the direction of Allston himself at our
+house, where it has remained many years, the
+admiration of all. Should you ever go to Boston,
+I think it will give you pleasure to see it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I always supposed that the name was merely a
+fancy one, but what you say of Allston’s intimacy
+with Sully and his family, makes me believe that
+quite probably the name was taken from one of
+Sully’s daughters, and as such it may even be a
+sort of portrait of her.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I closed by asking for further information in
+regard to the original of the picture, and received
+the following reply:—</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Mary E. Nealy to N. A.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>618 Sixth Street, Washington City, <abbr title='District of Columbia'>D. C.</abbr></div>
+ <div class='line in24'>Nov. 18, 1875.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your letter of enquiry in regard to the portrait of
+“Rosalie” by Allston was duly received. Colonel Wheeler
+does not know about it, and Mrs. Wheeler, formerly Ellen
+Sully, being married before her sister Rosalie was grown,
+does not <em>know</em> that the verses were inspired by her sister,
+but thinks it highly probable, as Mr. Allston admired her
+very much. She was very beautiful, as well as talented,
+but died at an early age. Mrs. Wheeler could tell you
+certainly about your picture if she could see a photograph
+of it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>I will be happy to call and see the picture if I ever go to
+Boston, and thank you kindly for the privilege and the
+invitation. I have been intensely interested in his
+pictures, and think that few artists ever created more
+lovely female heads. I have an old annual called <cite>The
+Gift</cite>, published in Philadelphia, in 1842. On the title page
+is a lovely vignette head, which Col. Wheeler says is
+Rosalie Sully. If I could send it to you without spoiling
+my book I would do so. But the more simple way would
+be for you to photograph your painting.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>P. S. This is a handsome and youthful brunette, with
+a spirited yet most lovely and womanly expression. Her
+hand supports her head, and the dark rich curls fall carelessly
+about her face. Sully painted his daughters in
+many positions and in various characters, and many
+female heads of his, supposed to be imaginary, are portraits
+of his own loved ones.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'><cite>The Gift</cite>, edition of 1842, is in the Boston
+Athenæum Library. The second picture on the
+title page really does look like “Rosalie” but
+younger.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Allston died in Cambridge, Mass., July 9, 1843.
+Mrs. Jameson, the English author, in her Memoir
+of Washington Allston, January 1, 1844, gives the
+following description:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“‘Rosalie Listening to Music.’ The figure of a young
+girl, life-size and three-quarters. She has been reading.
+The hand which holds the book has dropped: the other is
+pressed on her bosom. The head a little raised. Rapt,
+yet melancholy attention in the opening eyes and parted
+lips. The coloring deep, delicate, rich.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When I first saw this picture, in the drawing-room of Mr.
+Appleton of Boston, I had never seen Allston, did not even
+recollect his name. It at once so captivated my attention,
+that I could not take my eyes from it, even though one
+who might well have sat for a Rosalie was at my side. I
+thought I had never beheld such a <em>countenance</em>, except in
+some of the female heads of Titian or Palma. Yet the
+face was not what would be termed <em>beautiful</em>; and oh, how
+far from the sentimental, ringletted prettiness of our
+fashionable painters!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_129'>129</span>When I afterwards asked Mr. Allston whether his poem
+of ‘Rosalie’ had suggested the picture, or the picture the
+stanzas, he replied, that, ‘as well as he could recollect, the
+conception of the poem and of the picture had been
+simultaneous in his mind.’ He received for this picture
+1,200 dollars, about £250.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The “Rosalie” was exhibited at the Philadelphia
+Centennial Exposition in 1876, and a lithograph
+was published by James R. Osgood &#38; Co., Boston,
+in a collection entitled “Massachusetts Artists’
+Centennial Album, 1876.” The description is as
+follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“This picture was painted in 1835. It represents a
+beautiful girl seated, facing the spectator, with one hand
+upon her bosom, and the fingers of the other between the
+leaves of a red book which she holds upon one knee. A
+piece of dark-brown drapery thrown across the lap nearly
+hides the blue of the skirt. The waist of the dress is of
+gray, with white sleeves, and is bound to the form by a
+yellow girdle. The background is a dull red curtain with
+a gray column at the left. The picture is owned by Mr.
+Nathan Appleton. The illustration is a heliotype made
+from the original.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>I loaned it for some years to the Boston Museum
+of Fine Arts, and in 1893, it was exhibited at the
+World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. I
+afterward sold it to my brother W. S. Appleton,
+and it is now at 462 Beacon Street, Boston.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Brother Tom and Allston.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Letter from T. G. A. to Mrs. Samuel Appleton.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>31st August, 1844.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Ashby de la Zouch.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have been a week with Lady S. and her husband
+Mr. Smith Wright, not far from here. Lady S. is
+famous for her taste in flowers. Her conservatory
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_130'>130</span>is superb, and her white “yackas” unrivalled.
+She has a sister like “<em><span lang="fr">ma chere Mire</span></em>” in Miss
+Bremer, with a wonderful face for energy. She is
+87, but quick as a girl, a very clever botanist as
+well, and corresponding with all the best botanists
+in England. I drove and rode and walked over
+the country; magnetized a little, and drew a little,
+and so the hours flew. The Everetts were there a
+bit, and then flew to Scotland. To show how kind
+a man Mr. Smith Wright is,—he it was at Rome
+who got the Protestant burial ground enclosed, and
+did away with the burial by torchlight of old time.
+He is president of the Mechanics’ Institute at
+Nottingham. I shall hope to see these excellent
+friends again. I am the first American who ever
+visited them.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday Lady S. drove me to Sir George Beaumont’s,
+wishing herself to see Allston’s picture, I
+had so interested her in him. On the way there
+she told me how odd a person the present Sir
+George was,—the nephew of the famous art
+patron,—He received us at his superb porch in a
+blouse, with a funny white hat on, and was in great
+spirits to see us.... He took us over the fine
+house, a miracle of taste, as was everything of his
+uncle’s, and at length into a glass conservatory-like
+gallery he had built to hold the over abounding
+pictures. Here were all the first good things of
+Wilkie, Leslie, etc., which Sir George bought to
+encourage the young artists, but Sir G.’s own
+sketches were as interesting as any, and as good.
+The last one he was upon when he fell with apoplexy
+was peculiarly so. It represented boys
+playing over water upon a fallen tree, and every
+figure was in danger. Sir G. considered this very
+curious, so anticipating his own situation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_131'>131</span>I mentioned Allston. He jumped. “I’ll show
+you a picture of his,”—and he ran for the key.
+It is in a lovely gray stone church, close to the
+house, a sort of guardian angel to the place.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Allston’s picture is the only one in the church.
+It is the one he often spoke to me about. It is ill
+placed, and ill lit, but wonderfully fine. An angel
+in white with sky blue scarf fluttering, points,
+while standing on the steps, to the prison door with
+a radiant hand, while Peter lifts a majestic face,
+heavy with sleep, upon the Angelus from between
+his bent and drowsy guards.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There is a huge <em>patine</em> of moonlight breaking
+through the grates of the prison above.... The
+angel’s hair is nut brown and a little too pretty for
+so sacred a subject. It reminded me of “Rosalie’s”
+which is womanly, not angelic. The figures are
+life size and the picture one of Allston’s fine ones
+tho’ not equal to the “Jeremiah,” “Miriam” or
+“Balshazzar.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We spent hours in wandering through the
+grounds....</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Oh! the dairy, you should see that! An arched
+alcove, all <em>tiles</em> above and below, rows of huge
+cream bowls standing upon marble slabs, and a
+fountain coolly splashing from an antique mask at
+one end. This gem of a dairy was dead Lady
+Beaumont’s doing.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There were poems of Wordsworth cut in stone
+about the walks. He was a great friend of the
+former Sir George, and I saw a stone seat, the rock
+cut, in which he wrote many of his poems. When
+one thinks of this lovely place and the great men,
+Sir George, Allston, Wordsworth, and Beaumont
+and Fletcher,—this is one of the family,—perhaps
+Shakespeare, one must allow this to be almost
+unmatched as a country seat.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_132'>132</span>On page 67, of brother Tom’s volume of poems
+entitled “Faded Leaves,” in one addressed to
+Allston after seeing his “Peter delivered from
+Prison” at Colcorton Hall, in Wordsworth’s winter
+garden, may be found the following stanzas:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“A portion of thy soul divine</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is fitly shrined in yon meek aisle</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where arching roofs in prayer incline,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And chasten all the silent pile.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Ah! yes, dear Allston, from the bars</div>
+ <div class='line'>And dungeon of this mortal sphere,</div>
+ <div class='line'>At length thy spirit seeks the stars,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Free in their happier atmosphere.”</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From My Mother at Boston.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“February 24, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I do think you are having splendid times. The
+last princess seems to be the loveliest. And then
+the furs, and the slippers, and the table covers, and
+the malachite! Oh, what a boy!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Sayles (Henry Sayles) and Ned Brown
+(Edward Ingersol Brown) called to see me and were
+so much pleased with your picture. (Staigg
+portrait.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>They were told you <em>really sent</em> a telegram from
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg on Christmas Day, and thought it
+so like you to do it. W. S. A. is in pursuit of a
+second pair for his four-in-hand. I do not approve
+so much display.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In another letter my mother observes parenthetically:—“You
+must remember I am an old lady
+and belong to the old school of manners and
+propriety, which has sadly changed since my day.”</p>
+
+<div id='i_133' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_133.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>THE BLESSING OF THE NEVA. ILL. LONDON NEWS.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_133'>133</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SIXTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ST. PETERSBURG. THE NEVA. NOVGOROD. POLAND.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“We look into each other’s eyes,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And see a friendly peace which says,</div>
+ <div class='line'>While on the snowy Cossack flies,</div>
+ <div class='line'>‘Rave ye without, here Quiet stays.’</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>This silent, unexpressed delight</div>
+ <div class='line'>Glows brighter so severely set:</div>
+ <div class='line'>Heart-warm against the stormy white,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The Rose of Joy burns warmer yet.”</div>
+ <div class='line in20'>—<em>Thomas Gold Appleton</em></div>
+ <div class='line in16'><cite>A Snow Storm</cite>, Jan. 17, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Blessing of The Neva.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, Jan’y 20, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Mama.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Here we are back at the capital, where we were
+most enthusiastically received by our hostess
+Madame Octavie, who expressed great joy at seeing
+her “little Americans” safely returned, and
+installed us into our old apartments.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your letters came the next day, with accounts
+of Christmas festivities at home, and the prospective
+party for New Year.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I am so glad that the portrait <em><span lang="fr">à la militaire</span></em> has
+been accomplished enough to show what it is, and
+that the likeness is good, and the whole thing gives
+pleasure. I rather pride myself upon it, for the
+idea of the composition and pose was quite my own,
+and the secrecy with which it has all been done is
+commendable.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_134'>134</span>Driving down the Nevski from the Moscow
+station <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg looked <em>so</em> funny, not in the
+least like a Russian city, but a great, sprawling
+capital, and they tell us it is not gay here at all,
+especially after Moscow. No balls at Court as yet,
+as the government is not very rich just now, and
+after the tremendous expenses of entertaining our
+fleet last summer, and later all the gorgeous display
+connected with the wedding of the Tsarevitch, they
+are really trying to economize a bit. This is good
+theoretically, but not for us individually, and I
+hope we shall see one big ball at the Winter Palace.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The morning after our return was the day of the
+ceremony of the baptism of the Neva, which the
+Emperor attends. We received invitations to the
+Palace to go with the Diplomatic Corps, and
+although we could not see much of the performance
+outside,—and how the poor fellows, Tsar, priests,
+and “strikers” have to suffer with uncovered heads
+in the bitter cold,—we got a very good idea of
+the male portion of the Russian court in the Palace,
+and afterwards enjoyed an excellent breakfast.
+It was quite striking to see us, the only two civilians
+in the big throng of officers, courtiers and
+diplomats, and it was a pleasant feeling that the
+grandeur of America does not go in for outside
+display.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We dined yesterday at the English Club with
+Curtin, the best one in the city, and English only
+in name, and later played Russian nine-pins with
+a party of officers.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I skated, also, on the Neva Club grounds, which
+have been carefully arranged during our absence,
+and it was very jolly there, with music and all the
+swells of the city. The costumes are very effective,
+and add much to the brilliancy of the scene, those
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_135'>135</span>of the gentlemen being quite as elaborate as of the
+ladies, velvet jackets and tight fitting tunics
+trimmed with fur and slashed <em><span lang="fr">à la Polenaise</span></em>, with
+Knickerbockers and leggings. It is strange that
+if a gentleman with us should attempt to wear such
+a costume, elegant, comfortable, and appropriate
+for the ice, he would be set down as a snob. The
+democratic principle of every one always wearing
+the same style of raiment on all occasions may,
+perhaps, be good, but it certainly takes away much
+from the beauty of any assemblage of human
+beings.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The ladies were much as in New York or Jamaica
+Pond, with the addition of the omnipresent <em>basilisk</em>
+or hood, made of different colored cloth, and
+trimmed with gold or silver braid. We mean to
+bring several of them home, as there is nothing
+prettier or more genuinely Russian here to take
+away, and for a lady to wear sleigh-riding they are
+perfect. I hope to see some of my own on the
+Brighton road next winter.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Today was held the first race of the season on
+the river, but it was so very cold that it was not
+particularly amusing to witness. The horses look
+fine, parading about covered with Persian blankets.
+Monday morning. Very early! We start in a few
+minutes on an excursion of two or three days to
+Novgorod the Great, once the capital of Russia,
+and I have just time to seal this up without finishing
+it.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Therefore in haste,&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; Nathan.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Fox’s Mission to Russia.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The reference in my letter to our fleet and its
+presence in Russia is to Fox’s mission. On the
+16th of May, 1866, the President of the United
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_136'>136</span>States, Andrew Johnson, signed a joint resolution
+passed by Congress, congratulating the twenty
+million serfs upon the providential escape from
+assassination of the Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, by the
+hand of an enemy of emancipation, and in order to
+give additional significance to the act, Congress
+selected the Hon. Gustavus Vasa Fox, assistant
+secretary of the navy during the entire period of
+the war for the Preservation of the Union, to perform
+the delicate mission of carrying this resolution
+to the Emperor of Russia. He was sent in the two
+turreted monitor <em>Miantonomoh</em>, a class of vessel
+which had never before crossed the Atlantic, and
+the <em>Augusta</em> and <cite>Ashuelot</cite>, two wooden men-of-war,
+accompanied the <em>Miantonomoh</em>.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>August 6 (July 23) 1866, the fleet arrived in the
+harbor of Cronstadt, on the 17th the Tsar sent the
+address acknowledging the visit of Mr. Fox, and on
+Saturday, September 15 (3d) Mr. Fox left Saint
+Petersburg, after a farewell breakfast given on the
+Russian yacht <em>Rurik</em> at which Lieutenant General
+Greig said in a speech while presenting a medal
+struck in memory of the enfranchisement of the
+peasants:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“He will see on it the likeness of our blessed
+sovereign, and the effigy of a nobleman and of a
+peasant.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A narrative of this mission to Russia from the
+Journal and Notes of J. F. Loubat (Duc deLoubat)
+was published in 1873, and presented to me in New
+York, by the author, September 28th of the same
+year.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Ceremony of Blessing the Waters.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In some notes made in February, 1879, and
+printed in the Boston <cite>Advertiser</cite> under the title
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_137'>137</span>“<cite>Outre Mer</cite>,” I referred to the occasion of the
+annual benediction of the Neva, a rite of the Orthodox
+Church commemorative of the baptism of the
+Saviour, when the Tsar takes his position in an
+open chapel built out on the quay, and the ice
+below having been broken the Metropolitan blesses
+the waters and the cross is dipped therein three
+times:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“It takes place just opposite the Winter Palace,
+and all the guests witness it comfortably from the
+windows of one of the large rooms of the palace,
+while the Tsar and the priests and those who
+actually participate in it have to go out with bare
+heads in the cold and take some of the water from
+the frozen Neva, which they can only get through
+a hole made in the ice. It is principally a religious
+service, with rites performed upon a handsome
+platform, with a canopy above, erected for it
+between the palace and the water. It does not
+last long, and in this instance the Emperor and his
+suite might well have been glad to get out of the
+intense cold when it was over.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We had some difficulty that day, my companion
+and myself, in getting up to the door of the Winter
+Palace. We had our cards of invitation all correct,
+indicating where we should go, and we supposed
+that our <em>invostchik</em>, or the driver of the sleigh
+we used every day, understood it perfectly. But
+it seems he did not, and we were stopped by a
+mounted soldier to whom we could not talk a word,
+while we brandished the card before him. But this
+did not work, and we had to turn back. We were
+at our wits’ ends, determined if possible not to miss
+the sight, and I suggested that we should drive at
+once to the United States Minister’s residence,
+General Clay, to see if we could not find his servant,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_138'>138</span>or some one who would act as pilot. On the road
+we met our commissionaire whom we had dismissed
+at the hotel, thinking we should not need
+him, and took him in front with the driver.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>A Friend at Court.</span>”</h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>As it was then rather late we drove up to the
+nearest door of the palace, but not the one designated
+for us to enter on the card. There we met
+one of the young officers of the imperial household
+whose acquaintance we had made at our regular
+presentation to the Tsar some weeks before, and,
+explaining to him our dilemma he said it was all
+right, and put us in charge of a <em>chasseur</em>, who was
+to conduct us to our proper places. He was a
+gorgeously dressed fellow, with a very tall plume
+in his hat, and slowly took us along through the
+endless <em>salons</em> of the building, which were filled
+with people,—ladies in the galleries,—and at
+length reached the room set apart for the Diplomatic
+Corps and distinguished strangers who
+happened to be in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, where we had a
+view of the ceremonies.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Cousinly View.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Cousin at Moscow to My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Moscow, January 22, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>My dear Cousin.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>About a month ago, as I was standing at the
+window, I saw two gentlemen stop at our door, with
+very English faces as I thought. I was surprised,
+for I expected no visitors from abroad, but how
+much greater was my surprise when the two gentlemen
+were introduced as Mr. Appleton and Mr.
+Longfellow.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_139'>139</span>You may well imagine my joy at seeing some of
+my American relations at last. Their stay in
+Moscow was for me a perfect enjoyment. I had
+such pleasure in seeing them, and saw them as
+often as was possible, for they had so many invitations
+from all sides that they could hardly find
+time to answer them all: they went very much
+among the nobility.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Nathan admired the Russian ladies much and
+teased me all the time by saying he would marry
+a Russian Princess or a Polish countess. I said I
+would not acknowledge him after that, he must
+remain constant to the American beauties. He
+left Moscow, however, with the firm intention of
+falling desperately in love with the first fairy
+princess he met in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. I trust, however,
+that the 30 degrees of frost we have at the
+present moment will freeze his heart so as not to
+admit any warmer feeling into it, and prevent
+melting away those he brought with him from
+America.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>You may well think, dear cousin, how much
+Nathan and Charles had to tell us about you all,
+and it seems as if since I know them the ocean has
+disappeared between us, and we are brought nearer
+to each other. How much I should like to see you
+and know you all, and always will regret not to
+have gone over to Boston during the three months
+I stayed in Ostend, some twelve years ago. I
+should have then seen our dear Grandmamma, let
+me call her thus, dear cousin, for she was to me
+more than ever an aunt could be.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>How much I value the beautiful pin you sent me
+is needless to say. Receive my warmest and
+sincerest thanks for this kind attention, and believe
+me, dear cousin, that I shall always wear the pin,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_140'>140</span>so dear to me, in remembrance of our dear Grandmamma
+and of yourself.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>How do you like Nathan’s and Charles’s photograph
+in their furs? (See frontispiece.) We admire
+it much, and I claimed one for my album.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Kiss the dear baby for me. I sent him a pair of
+little red Russian boots, which I hope he will be
+able to wear by the time they reach him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Good bye, dear cousin, write to me sometimes,
+and tell me something about our travellers that
+interest me much. My husband begs to be kindly
+remembered to you and your dear family.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Most affectionately,</div>
+ <div class='line in14'>Eliza Carnatz.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Novgorod.</span><br> <span class='sc'>To My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Saint Petersburg,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>January 28, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><em><span lang="fr">Ma chère Maman.</span></em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our little trip to Novgorod was most successful.
+We went down the railroad about 70 miles, to
+Tchudova, and there took the <em>troikas</em> and the
+funniest vehicle imaginable, in which you lie down
+on the hay and are covered up with felt and skins.
+We made our forty-five miles in a few hours, arriving
+at the town in time for supper and bed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The next morning we set about seeing the sights
+of the place, which are very few, the old church of
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Sophia and the modern monument celebrating
+the 1000th anniversary of Russia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>What a quaint old place, with its Kremlin, and
+its white yellow churches, and everything so
+Russian!</p>
+
+<div id='i_140' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_140.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>THE MIDNIGHT DRIVE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>I found a fascinating antiquary, who would have
+driven Billy crazy, in his gown and skull cap. He
+had a book store in his house, with curiosities and
+minerals, and I bought a Russian missal of the 14th
+century (I afterwards gave it to the Boston Public
+Library.) and a few coins and odds and ends.</p>
+
+<div id='i_141' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_141.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>SKATING IN THE YOUSOUPOFF GARDEN.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_141'>141</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Midnight Drive.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>We made the journey home by night, with the
+mercury near zero, and cold enough it was. I had
+two pairs of gloves on, and mittens over them, and
+was just comfortable. We rattled along over the
+snow, with a bright moon, and clear, cold stars,
+stopping now and then at wayside inns to drink tea
+and warm up.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Nothing have we done more Russ than our midnight
+drive from Novgorod.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday we dined with the Count Besborodko,
+the one who owns the “swell” palace I mentioned
+in a previous letter. The dinner was good, the
+company gay, the Countess charming, and never
+in my life was I so <em><span lang="fr">en train</span></em> to speak French easily.
+I surprised myself. We came home early, changed
+our dress, and went for a little while to the fête of
+the Yacht Club Skating ground, which was brilliantly
+illuminated with lanterns, grottoes of ice
+with Bengal lights thrown upon them, stuffed
+bears, pretty toilettes, etc. etc.—music.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Isla.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>But even this was not enough for the evening, so
+off we go to Isla, a café, theatre, skating ground
+combined, a few miles into the country, where
+there are life size statues made of ice in the garden.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Shall we go to the <em><span lang="fr">bal masqué</span></em> at the Opera House?
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_142'>142</span>No, it will hardly pay to put on our funereals twice
+the same evening, so go to bed quietly, and good
+night!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Since my last return here I have been making
+many purchases preparatory to leaving the place.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Your beautiful sables have been selected, paid
+for and packed up, and I hope they will come home
+in safety.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Circassian Uniform.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“‘Brave in battle,’ ‘eloquent in assembly,’ are great
+titles in Circassia. But he who is the ‘most hospitable’
+wears the brightest crown of all.... A Circassian is
+always a Circassian.”</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>—<em>Colonel Richard Henry Savage.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“A land of the sword and spear, of the chase and mighty
+woodcraft—Circassia.”</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>—<em>R. H. S.</em> 1876.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother Continued.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I have got Master Will a Circassian overcoat for
+winter, and myself a Circassian uniform, for fancy
+balls at home, very handsome and effective it is
+too. Charlie has had a Russian dress made for the
+same object. I have picked up in the Bazaar some
+nice things in the way of arms,—pistols, daggers
+and swords, and am looking for some chain armor.
+Today I bought all the malachite I want, a few
+pretty pieces only. My Russian harness has come,
+and very nice it is, so light and graceful. Look out
+for me on the avenue next summer crying “<em><span lang="ru">berages</span></em>,”
+Russian for “Look out!” “Take care!”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have bought you a lovely Persian table cloth
+and myself a cover for an easy chair for smoking.</p>
+
+<div id='i_142' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_142.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>CIRCASSIAN UNIFORM.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went the other evening to see the Davenport
+Brothers, who are here now, and as luck would have
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_143'>143</span>it I was drawn by lot to tie one of them in the box.
+Funny that way out in Russia they should be tied
+up by a fellow countryman. There was quite a
+party of us Americans there, and we chatted with
+them after the performance. It was very good and
+just what I have often seen.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>29th. Morning:—I have just received a big
+packet of letters; among them one from Georgie
+Shattuck. He gives me a very good idea of just
+what is going on in Boston.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Last eve we were again at the Opera, in the
+Pierces’ box. The Barber of Seville—I have often
+heard it—with an ugly prima-donna. Tonight
+we go first to a ballet, “Meteora,” and after to a
+ball at Lady Buchanan’s the English ambassadress,
+and, perhaps, at two o’clock, to a costume ball at
+one of the Clubs. Saturday next is my birthday,
+and I am to give a gentlemen’s dinner to Russians
+and Americans.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have many things here which are not completed,
+and I want all my purchases well packed
+up and directed, before I leave the place, and, try
+as hard as you please, it is difficult to accomplish
+much each day.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We made the acquaintance a few days past of
+the Souworoff family, the descendants of the great
+old fighter whose sabre rang all over Europe. The
+young princess was very nice and jolly, and did not
+like it that her mother would not let her skate and
+flirt. The old party was eminently proper and conservative
+in all her ideas, and reminded me of
+several ladies in Boston I might perhaps mention.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We passed one evening last week quietly with
+Mr. Prince, as he was very desirous we should.
+What are you going to do this summer? Will
+quiet Lynn content you, or is it Niagara, Saratoga,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_144'>144</span>or Newport? Go in for a house there, and I will
+come home by the first of August, in time for the
+season. I hear the Americans are cutting great
+rigs in Paris. Thank Mr. Burgess for me for the
+arrival of the package. Breakfast being ready,
+12 m., I will say in the last words of many French
+comedies, “<span lang="fr">à table</span>”.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Costume Ball at Delmonico’s.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Send me a dream tonight,</div>
+ <div class='line'>A dream of the boy-time days,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Stop for me the shuttle of Time</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That ever so swiftly plays—</div>
+ <div class='line'>A dream of the other days,</div>
+ <div class='line'>When the sky was ever bright—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Unravel the warp and woof of years—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Send me a dream tonight.”</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>—<cite>Baltimore American</cite>, April, 1900.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>From a journal of a visit to New York and
+Philadelphia, made in March and April, 1875, I
+extract the following written in my den, 788 Broadway,
+Room 16, New York, April 11th:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“Since I left Boston, nearly three weeks ago, I
+have been through some such interesting experiences
+that I must certainly record them in my
+diary. But it is no easy thing to catch them as
+they go by, so rapid a life do we lead in the great
+cities and so full of movement is the time, still, I
+will try.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The event of the season among the few hundred
+persons who make up the fashionables of New York
+society, was the <em><span lang="fr">Bal Costumé</span></em> given at Delmonico’s
+by thirty gentlemen on Easter Monday, March 29,
+1875.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I was invited to take part in the Oriental Quadrille
+gotten up by Miss Minnie Stevens (Daughter
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_145'>145</span>of Mr. and Mrs. Paran Stevens, and afterwards wife
+of Arthur Henry Fitzroy Paget.) as I had a fine
+Circassian officer’s dress, which I had had made
+years ago in Saint Petersburg, just for occasions of
+the kind.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Sunday before the ball I dined at Mr. S. L.
+M. Barlow’s, No. 1 Madison Avenue, as my partner
+in the quadrille was to be Miss Barlow, and it was
+a kind attention on their part to invite me to dinner.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The other guests were Mr. Manton Marble and
+Mr. Hurlburt of the New York <cite>World</cite>, one of the
+organs of the Democratic party. These gentlemen,
+with Messrs. Barlow, Belmont and others,
+were very intimate, and all leading spirits of the
+Manhattan Club.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>After dessert, I took occasion to say, in a conversation
+in which some of the leaders were being
+discussed, that the Democratic party to succeed
+must get rid of many of its old planks, which would
+not support any one today; that there were plenty
+of young fellows like myself and others, who had
+been in the war, and were now growing up to take
+part in public matters, who could not, and would
+not, place confidence in the men whose record had
+been such as that of the leaders of the Northern
+Democrats, the last fifteen years.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>But how I have departed from the ball!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Instead of describing it particularly I insert here
+a drawing and notice of it from Frank Leslie’s
+paper, also the card of invitation, etc. (The
+illustration represented the ball room with the ball
+in progress, showing many of the finest costumes.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The invitation was for a <em><span lang="fr">Bal Costumé—costume
+de rigueur</span></em>,—signed by H. S. Fearing, secretary,
+and the time was nine o’clock. The reverse of the
+card bore the names of twenty-eight gentlemen;
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_146'>146</span>among them August Belmont, W. W. Astor, and
+A. Thorndike Rice.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The representative of <em>Frank Leslie’s</em> said in his
+report:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“All that bright flowers, perfumed air, sweet music,
+flashing diamonds, manly beauty, female loveliness,
+elegant costumes, and grace and refinement could contribute
+to such a scene, were found there.... One
+of the features of the evening was an Eastern quadrille of
+which Miss Stevens of Fifth Avenue was queen. The
+costumes of the eight forming the set were superb!”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The note from Miss Minnie Stevens to me with
+regard to the ball, was as follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“I write you some time ahead to know if it is possible
+for you to be in New York a week from Monday, that is to
+say, the Monday before the ball. We have arranged to
+dance the quadrille at our place on that evening, for you
+have no idea how little any one knows about dancing it,
+and, as the audience will be large, it would be very mortifying
+to make several mistakes. As there is to be a procession
+formed, we have also to know our partners and our
+places. I hope you will be able to get here for the rehearsal
+on Monday the 22d as I would like all the sixteen to come
+together. I am in despair about my dress, it is so difficult
+to get up. Hoping soon to have the pleasure of seeing
+you,</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>I am sincerely yours,</div>
+ <div class='line in18'>Minnie Stevens.”</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>This was the handsomest ball of the kind I ever
+saw, as nearly all the costumes were remarkable for
+richness, and few or none of them had a cheap or
+tawdry look. The march in of all of us who took
+part in the opening quadrille, was a brilliant sight.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Before going to it I went to show myself off in
+costume at the Appletons’, 3 Madison Avenue, and
+also at the Beckwiths’ on Fifth Avenue and 18th
+Street, whence I escorted Miss Helen Beckwith
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_147'>147</span>(Now Mrs. Dudley Leigh.) in the dress of a Circassian
+slave across the street to the Belmonts’, where
+there was a large reception, for those in costume
+particularly, for the benefit of the invalid daughter
+who could not go to the ball, but naturally wanted
+to see the people and the dresses. I was glad to
+have the chance of paying a call at the house. Mrs.
+Belmont looked remarkably well, and her other
+daughter (Now Mrs. Samuel S. Howland.) too, as
+pretty as possible in Pompadour costume.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At the ball I sat at a supper table with Mrs.
+Strong,—née Ruggles,—chatting and looking
+at the different persons as they passed by; also,
+with Mrs. General Barlow née Shaw. This was a
+quiet and comfortable way of enjoying the fête.
+Then I danced the “<em>cotillon</em>” with Mrs. Kemys—the
+cotillon which was led by Jimmy Otis with all
+the animation of twenty years before.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Strolling to my den through 14th street and
+Broadway, just as the day was dawning, I got into
+bed, well tired, a little before six o’clock.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From Miss Stevens on Receipt of the Photograph, 1877.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“So many thanks for the charming photograph just
+received. It was very kind of you to have remembered
+me, and so justly divined my wish.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The ‘Circassian’ shall join its companions in the album
+of the oriental quadrille. We are going to England some
+time this spring, but I hope only to return for the summer
+at dear old Newport, which we all must acknowledge has
+no rivals.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Loom of the East.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I wore my Circassian costume again at my
+brother’s house, 10 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_148'>148</span>at the meeting of the Bric-a-Brac Club, January
+17th, 1877, when I read his paper on “The Loom
+of the East” (Fifth chapter of “Windfalls” by
+Thomas Gold Appleton, author of “A Sheaf of
+Papers,” “A Nile Journal,” “Syrian Sunshine”
+etc.) my brother suffering from a fall at the time.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>My Twenty-Fourth Birthday.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Sunday, Feb. 3, 1867.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“Your birthday (February 2d) was not forgotten,
+and as I sat at my lonely meal, I could only
+wish you, my boy, many years of happiness,—not
+the giddy enjoyment of the present hour, but solid
+days of reality, when the heart shall be satisfied,
+and all this fascination of travel and society shall
+have lost some of its freshness, and you will not
+care for a ‘spike’ team, or a ‘four-in-hand’.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Last Letter from Russia in ’67.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, February 3, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yes, Mamma, it is here. We are off tomorrow
+for Warsaw. We leave this delightful place, with
+its cold climate and its warm hearts. Willingly
+would I linger here a week or two more, but Charles
+is resolute, and has been saying for the last few
+days that he <em>will</em> go tomorrow, and can’t be stopped.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our boxes are packed, our bills paid, and as it
+would be quite impossible to find a time when we
+would not like to stay longer, perhaps it is as well
+to go now as ever.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_149'>149</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>20 and 30 Below.</span>”</h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>It is mild today, but the four days before have
+been such cold as I never experienced; the mercury
+being all the time between twenty and thirty below
+the zero of Fahrenheit. In fact the people here
+say they have not had such a snap for years. We
+were fortunate not to get frozen, for our <em>isvoschik</em>
+was in a continued state of freeze,—which he did
+not seem to mind,—notwithstanding the neckkerchief
+and mittens we gave him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The intense cold interferes little with your life,
+and wrapped up in our <em>shubes</em> we spend the day
+calling or shopping, or by night go from ballet to
+ball till late in the morning. They have huge fires
+built in front of the Opera House, and the Winter
+Palace, for the coachmen to keep warm.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russian Footmen.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The life of a footman here is odd enough. Their
+principal duty is to look after the cloaks and overshoes
+of their masters and mistresses, and they
+follow them about all day and night, sitting and
+sleeping in the entries of private houses during a
+visit and the duration of a ball, and in the foyer of
+the theatre for the entire performance of the opera
+or play.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The carriages, too, are always drawn up in line
+at the theatre or ball, and stay there all night
+instead of going home and returning at a certain
+hour. What would the tender coachmen and hackmen
+of Boston say to that, who do not like to wait
+half an hour?</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This is strange, when it is so cold, especially for
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_150'>150</span>the horses, but they are never clipped, and the men
+are very thickly dressed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At all the “swell” houses they have an impressive
+flunkey in the entry, with a huge knobbed
+stick like a drum major or beadle, dressed in
+gorgeous livery, a red sash a foot wide and covered
+with embroidered black, double-headed eagles.
+All he does is to open and shut the front door. In
+fact, at all houses, shops, and hotels, they have a
+porter, generally an old soldier covered with
+medals, to take off and put on overcoats and boots
+and goloshes.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Every house in Russia is double windowed and
+treble doored, and between the two panes of the
+windows there are artificial flowers.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The houses are too hot, and the air bad, so that
+they use incense everywhere in the country.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Lady Buchanan’s Ball.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The ball at the British embassy was very good,
+and we were introduced to the prettiest girl in the
+city, the little Countess Apraxine. We met, also,
+a charming young lady, the Princess Ourousoff, a
+cousin of my friend at Newport last summer.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Today we have been lunching at the Prince
+Galitzine’s, with a crowd of jolly young dogs;
+among them the son of the celebrated Gortschakoff.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Tsarskoë Selo.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We passed one day last week at Tsarskoë Selo,
+visiting the palace, a summer residence of the
+Emperor; also, the arsenal with splendid armor,
+and the imperial dairy, where we ate cheese and
+drank imperial milk. We afterwards dined with
+Gen. Gogol, the commander of the department, who
+was very strong on the <em><span lang="fr">entente cordiale</span></em> between us,
+with a most healthy detestation of England. He
+was another good specimen of that well-known
+type of humanity, the Russian general.</p>
+
+<div id='i_151' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_151.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>SLEDGE DRAWN BY REINDEER.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_151'>151</span>The Palace was the best I ever saw, they being
+generally cold, cheerless, all alike, and a bore, but
+this looked like a habitable place, with a blue and
+silver boudoir, a room entirely made of Japan wood,
+with panels, pictures, furniture, all Japanese; one
+room papered with amber, and at last a Persian
+smoking room, small and cozy, filled with bits of
+armor and pipes, divans, and a tiny fountain sunk
+in the middle of the room.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have been doing up sights rapidly, preparatory
+to leaving; for instance, the Admiralty, where an
+officer showed us all the models, interesting to
+Charles, especially the Yankee cutters; the Academy
+of Fine Arts from which, however, the best
+paintings have already been sent to Paris. (For
+the Exposition.) I wanted to get a fair idea of the
+Russian school, as it is now very little known out
+of the country, but headed by Zitchy, a genius. I
+have photographs which will give you an idea of
+his talent.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Imperial Library one day I slaughtered, well
+repaying a visit, but finally, today, we gave a
+hurried half-hour to a last, lingering gaze at the
+treasures in the Hermitage.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Drive with Reindeer.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Yesterday, in all the cold, we took a five minute
+drive in a sledge drawn by three reindeer on the
+Neva, just to say we had done it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Midnight and after:—I take up my festive quill
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_152'>152</span>for the last time in Petersburg, to finish a family
+epistle.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We have been to see our last ballet tonight, and
+then out to Tivoli, a restaurant in the suburbs of
+the city, with a “swell” skating pond under glass.
+We have been meaning to see the place for a long
+while, but have not accomplished it before our
+last eve.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We have our government permission to leave
+the country, and nothing now remains for us to do
+but gracefully take off our hats and give a parting
+kiss to Russia.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Nate.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Please see that all my military traps are safely
+returned from the studio of Staigg,—sword, bridle,
+jacket, belt, etc. Ask T. G. A. to write me his
+opinion of the picture.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gas-Lighting in Moscow.</span><br> <span class='sc'>From My Mother in Boston, Feb. 10, 1867.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“Did you witness the lighting of Moscow with
+gas? It must have been a great occasion from the
+newspaper accounts. It seems strange it should
+not have been done before this.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Gifts to the South.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Mr. George Peabody has made a munificent gift
+to the country of $1,500,000 for educational purposes
+in the South, so that I am sure the North
+may feel relieved of all responsibility.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I read in this evening’s <cite>Transcript</cite>, that the
+largest room in the world is in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, did
+you see it? Twenty thousand wax tapers are
+required to light it properly.</p>
+
+<div id='i_153' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_153.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>DROSKY.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is simply ridiculous the way people are to be
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_153'>153</span>off, there will be eight or nine vacant houses at
+Nahant.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Later, in a letter dated March 31, 1867, my
+mother mentioned the gift of 100,000 volumes of
+school books, which the New York Appleton firm
+had added to the educational gift of Mr. Peabody.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>Poor Poland.</span>”</h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Good Kosciusko! thy great name alone</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Is a full harvest whence to reap high feeling;</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>It comes upon us like the glorious pealing</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of the wide spheres—an everlasting tone.”</div>
+ <div class='line in20'>—<em>John Keats.</em> <cite>To Kosciusko.</cite></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Letter to My Mother.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c004'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Vienna, Feb. 12, 1867.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>From Saint Petersburg to here, a long pull, is it
+not? and what a change in temperature from the
+icy zero of the Neva to that which seems almost
+like summer! We saw the snow disappear on our
+way, and wheels gradually take the place of runners,
+and now that I am far away, and in a city,
+which like most European ones, is an attempted
+copy of Paris, how brilliantly indeed do the peculiarities
+of Russia stand forth.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We left <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> P. one morning and the evening of
+the next day were in Warsaw. Returning to our
+hotel late from a ball, we were accosted and stopped
+by a policeman of whom I asked the way, and he
+very politely took us all (Mr. W. F. Nisbet, an
+American gentleman who came with us from Russia,
+C. A. L. and myself.) to the station house. It
+seems no one in Warsaw is allowed to be out after
+midnight without a “pass,” and we had neglected
+to get them.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_154'>154</span>We coolly entered and sat down and burst out
+laughing, and at length I explained in my bad
+German, to an official who talked an equally bad
+lingo, our situation, impressing him with the fact
+of the greatness of the Amerikanski alliance, and
+we were soon escorted home.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The next day we rambled about the town, saw
+the palaces and the pretty ladies, and were attended
+to by some young Russian swells to whom we had
+letters from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. In the theatre we saw
+the Mazourka most gorgeously danced in true
+Polish national costume, which was not allowed
+here a few years ago.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Poor old Poland! What is left of her former
+greatness? Alas, nothing but the mazourka. As
+can be aptly said, how like to Byron’s Greece:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>We have the Polish dance as yet,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where is the Polish phalanx gone?</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>Better this than nothing, as it helps keep up still
+the nationality of the people.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The next morning Charles and I were off to
+Cracow, the old capital of Poland, and one of the
+most interesting and quaint old towns I had ever
+seen, with its Square and Schloss, and the church
+where all the kings of Poland have been crowned
+and buried, and we mysteriously descended the
+vault, and saw the tombs of Jagellon, Paniatowski,
+and our good friend Kosciusko.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This is an Austrian territory, where the rule is
+much less rigid, and we saw many old Poles in
+faded frogged coats and square caps, and the
+antique equipages and livery of families once the
+greatest in Europe.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I was never so impressed before with the hard
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_155'>155</span>fate of Poland, a great nation actually annihilated,
+and I got up my sympathy more on my journey by
+reading a most interesting history of Poland by
+Mickiewicz.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There happens to be a big salt mine near Cracow,
+and as we had never seen anything of the sort
+before, we descended with Bengal lights and what
+not, and did the whole thing: illuminated chambers,
+ferried across the Styx, crystal dance halls, and all,
+hundreds of feet below ground.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Parting Company.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The next morning we were up early for the train,
+and Charles and I, after two and more most agreeable
+months together, parted company; he for
+Dresden and then Paris, and I for Vienna.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_156'>156</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER SEVENTH.<br> <span class='c010'>CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Friend of my youth! when young we roved,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like striplings, mutually beloved,</div>
+ <div class='line in5'>With friendship’s purest glow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The bliss which winged those rosy hours</div>
+ <div class='line'>Was such as pleasure seldom showers</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On mortals here below.”</div>
+ <div class='line'>“To Lord Clare”—Byron’s <cite>Hours of Idleness</cite>.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>In Virginia.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Three Years Previous. The Pain of Battle.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>It was the movement of General George G.
+Meade called the Mine Run Expedition, Nov. 26,
+1863. On the morning of the 27th the First Mass.
+Cavalry under command of General John I. Gregg,
+marched to Parker’s Store on the Orange Plank
+Road, where it met a column of Meade’s infantry,
+the Fifth Corps, under command of General George
+Sykes, passed them, and marched ahead of them
+on the Gordonsville road, leading the column
+through the Wilderness. At New Hope Church
+they met the enemy’s cavalry pickets, but the
+country was so densely wooded they could only
+fight dismounted.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Brevet Col. B. W. Crowninshield in his History
+of the First Mass. Cavalry, says:—“As the force
+advanced, the ground became rougher and well
+wooded at times, with occasional openings.
+Charges were made, and prisoners were taken from
+what proved to be Walker’s North Carolina Brigade
+of Infantry.</p>
+
+<div id='i_156' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_156.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>CHARLES APPLETON LONGFELLOW.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_157'>157</span>Lieutenant C. A. Longfellow of Company A, was
+badly wounded, at first supposed mortally....</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When the 5th Corps infantry came up and
+relieved the cavalry the enemy had been pushed
+back nearly to his works on Mine Run.... In the
+fight the 1st Mass. Cavalry lost one officer and four
+men killed, and two officers and eleven men
+wounded.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From the History of the Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Letter of Lieut. Appleton p. 747.</span><br> <span class='sc'>The Crossing of the Rapidan. New Hope Church.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“On the 27th (Nov. 1863.) off at daybreak,
+struck a dirt road, which soon led to another plank
+road parallel to the first, and also in the direction
+of Orange Court House. On, on, we trudged, and
+soon we heard heavy cannonading, which every
+minute grew nearer, mixed now and then with the
+sharp cracks of the carbine. We soon came to the
+little village of New Hope Church, where the Corps
+rushed on at ‘double quick’ to relieve the shattered
+squadrons of Gregg, and a splendid sight it was.
+The cavalry formed in squares by the road side,
+right glad to be relieved by the ‘Doughboys’ and
+our artillery rushing on to the front. Captain
+Martin (Capt. A. P. Martin commanding the
+Artillery Brigade) soon got the batteries in posish,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_158'>158</span>and in fact the only fighting our Corps did was done
+by the artillery. I soon heard that Charlie Longfellow
+had been wounded, and stole the first minute
+I could get to run off to the hospital, New Hope
+Church, where I saw the dear boy, lying on the
+pulpit, and surrounded by the officers of the regiment.
+(First Mass. Cavalry.) He looked and
+talked well, but I did not have but a minute to stay
+with him, as my biz. then was on the field.... I
+went again to the hospital in the evening, but
+Charlie had gone, as they had taken off all except
+the worst cases. I assure you it was not a pleasant
+sight. Charlie and Bowditch (Captain Henry
+Pickering Bowditch shot in the right forearm) went
+off together. Charlie was wounded by a ball just
+under the shoulder blade, injuring the spine, but
+missing the vital parts.”</p>
+
+<hr class='c018'>
+
+<p class='c013'>Previous to his connection with the First Mass.
+Cavalry he joined the First Mass. Battery, Light
+Artillery, at the front, as a private, but was not
+mustered in, and at the age of 19 was commissioned
+in the Cavalry. His record in the Adjutant
+General’s office of the State of Massachusetts, is as
+follows:—</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned
+2nd Lieut., Co. G., 1st Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry,
+March 27, 1863; mustered March 27, 1863, for 3 years.
+Commissioned 1st Lieut. to date January 24, 1864, not
+mustered; discharged February 15, 1864, as 2nd Lieutenant.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Charles A. Longfellow, of Cambridge, was commissioned
+1st Lieut. in Co. G, 5th Regt. Mass. Vol. Cavalry, January
+7, 1864. He declined the commission.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Fifth Cavalry was a Regiment composed of
+men of African descent.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_159'>159</span>In August, 1863, he was Acting Adjutant.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The wound affected him all his life, he was never
+in condition to rejoin the army, and it prevented
+him from going on the ill fated expedition of
+Captain George Washington De Long in the <em>Jeanette</em>,
+to the North Pole. He had begged his great
+friend James Gordon Bennett to go as a volunteer
+on the expedition, but the surgeon who examined
+all those who were to take part in it, did not consider
+him fit to stand the probable exposure, and
+so would not pass him, greatly to his own disappointment
+but to the relief of his family and friends.
+As he would doubtless have been in the boat with
+Captain De Long he was saved the suffering and
+terrible death of those brave men.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>After much travelling and residence in many
+lands, shortly after his return from a trip to Tahiti
+with his friend T. Watson Merrill, in the spring of
+1892, he had a sudden stroke of paralysis, from
+which he never recovered.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Passing the summer with his sister Miss Alice
+Longfellow, at the old Nahant Cottage, he returned
+with her in the autumn to the historic home at
+Cambridge, formerly Washington’s headquarters,
+and after living all the winter and appearing somewhat
+better, he died April 13, 1893, at the age of
+forty-nine. He was born June 9, 1844.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_160'>160</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER EIGHTH.<br> <span class='c010'>FRANCE. LAST DAYS OF THE EMPIRE. TO RUSSIA WITH GENERAL BANKS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in12'>I</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Friend of the fair old days,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Have you forgotten me?</div>
+ <div class='line'>Back through the pleasant ways,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Oft in my memory,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Gladly I turn again.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Hearing the sounds that blew</div>
+ <div class='line'>Over the meadows then—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Oft at the side of you</div>
+ <div class='line'>Dreaming old dreams, I gaze</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Worshipping all I see—</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Friend of the fair old days,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Have you forgotten me?</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in12'>II</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ <div class='line'>Do you remember me?</div>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Deeming you great and wise—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Questions I asked you then?</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>There where the green hills rise</div>
+ <div class='line'>Often your gaze was cast</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Down on me tenderly—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Friend of the dear old past,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>May you remember me?”</div>
+ <div class='line in20'>—<em>S. E. Kiser.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Guests of France.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I wrote home June 5th, 1867, the year of the
+Great Exposition:—“It does not pay just now to
+be away from Paris, for it is in a most exceptional
+state, filled with Europeans—Kings, Princes, and
+all kinds of celebrities. All other places are
+deserted and quieter than usual, and moreover
+they will all keep for the future, but probably not
+for years will Paris see such another sight.</p>
+
+<div id='i_160' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_160.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>HON. NATHANIEL P. BANKS.<br> <br> REPRESENTATIVE FROM MASSACHUSETTS.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_161'>161</span>The last few steamers have brought over crowds
+of ‘Yanks’; others have come up from Italy and
+Germany, and I find that since the short time ago
+that I left here for England, my many friends have
+turned up and prices, too, have run up very fast.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The race for the Grand Prix on last Sunday, was
+probably the most brilliant assemblage of the sort
+the world has ever seen, and the road home from
+the tribune itself to the Place de la Concorde, was
+a solid mass of vehicles five or six rows in breadth,
+and all going in the same direction.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>My friend the Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> was there, and
+I recognized other Russian friends, but I shall let
+you get the accounts from the papers, and not from
+me, of all the grand doings of the season. There
+is to be held at the race course at Long Champs a
+huge review of military.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Thursday. Midnight: I must finish this for
+you tonight to dispatch it by tomorrow morning.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Review (Longchamps June 6, 1867, Review
+of the French Army.) was superb. It was, perhaps,
+the proudest day of Napoleon Third’s career,
+having on one side of him, as he reviewed the
+troops, the King of Prussia, and on the other the
+Emperor of Russia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I was late in driving up, but afterwards had a
+fine view of it all at the apartments of Paul Forbes
+and his family of New York, on the avenue.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_162'>162</span>Returning to Paris after the Review, the carriage
+in which the Tsar was seated passed me somewhere
+in the Bois de Boulogne, as I too, was returning
+from the pageant. I was so full of the delightful
+time I had had in Russia, a few months before, that
+I took off my hat as we passed and gave him a bow.
+My salutation was so very marked that he looked
+at me intently, as if trying to make out just who I
+was, but I do not suppose he could bring me back
+to his recollection, though of course he returned the
+salutation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The weather is delightful now, and the days so
+long that it is not dark at nine o’clock, and Paris
+is one prolonged fête, each day and night more
+astonishing than the last.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There is a vague rumor floating about that some
+crazy Pole attempted to assassinate the Tsar at
+the Review.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>June 12, 1867: This marvellous life of Paris
+runs along, getting more extraordinary every day!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>How well Napoleon <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> has succeeded in his
+undertaking. He invites rulers of all descriptions
+to come and visit him in his home, to see the Paris
+of ’67.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>They accept, and he quietly sits twirling his
+moustache, surrounded by Tsars, Popes, Queens,
+Sultans, Kings, Grand Dukes and Princes! What
+a shrewd and wonderful stroke of diplomacy it all
+is, thus showing to the world the marvels of his
+great capital! Balls, fêtes, races, reviews, come
+and go, but how it will all end one cannot say, for
+I think the French people will be tired of the
+tremendous expense before the summer is over.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Yesterday I went with a party to Fontainebleau,
+but it so happened the Imperialist party were all
+there the same morning, and the Palace was closed
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_163'>163</span>for visitors. We breakfasted, and drove through
+the forest, expecting to see a <em>chasse</em>, but, shortly
+after reaching the “Rendezvous” we found it was
+abandoned on account of the heat, and dogs and
+huntsmen all marched home.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is almost too warm for theatres now, but
+tonight I have been to see a piece called <cite>La Dame
+aux Camélias</cite>, which was a great success in Paris
+ten or fifteen years ago. (Vaudeville Theatre,
+Paris, February 2, 1852, Madame Eugénie Doche
+was the first Marguerite Gautier.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>July 4. 1867:—Here we have the great day of
+American independence, but, owing to the death of
+Maximilian, all festivities, both for the Sultan, and
+even our own “Fourth of July” celebration, are
+postponed. I must say this seems rather unnecessary,
+but I am inclined to think that yesterday
+morning Napoleon III did not have a very good
+appetite for breakfast. (The Emperor Maximilian
+was executed in Mexico, where he bravely insisted
+upon remaining to meet his fate when the army of
+Napoleon III had been withdrawn.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Paris is one of those places into which you tumble
+very easily, and then find it almost impossible to
+get out of it. People are packing up now, however,
+and the fashionable resort this summer, for Bostonians
+especially, seems to be the baths about Salzburg
+in the Tyrol.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Funny thing life is here in Paris. You wake up in
+the morning without any idea what you will do
+during the day. Invitations come, one thing
+succeeds another, and the hours slip along.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>July 10, 1867: The death of Maximilian has
+caused a very deep feeling in Europe, and most of
+the festivities arranged for the Sultan have been
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_164'>164</span>countermanded. This makes it rather quieter in
+Paris now than was expected.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I went out yesterday to Saint Cloud, and saw
+some rowing regattas between boats of various
+nationalities, but there were few persons present,
+and not much excitement.”</p>
+
+<hr class='c018'>
+
+<p class='c013'>The year of the great Exposition of 1867, may
+be regarded as the apogee of the Second Empire,
+and soon after it ominous rumblings were heard in
+the political clouds. The disastrous and humiliating
+expedition to Mexico doubtless contributed to
+the beginning of the downfall, and even the sight
+of Napoleon at the Longchamps Review in 1867,
+with the Emperor of Russia and the King of
+Prussia on either side, could not bolster up popular
+opinion as to the prestige of French military glory.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I never considered that the people of France
+endorsed the expedition to Mexico, or believed in
+it. No, it was part of the personal ambition of
+Napoleon to take advantage of our troubles, and
+try to foist an empire upon one of the nations of the
+Western hemisphere, where it was not wanted,
+would have been out of place, and could not last
+long. It was a miserable business from beginning
+to end, and did much to weaken the ties of friendship
+between France and the United States, as was
+shown many years later by the opposition of our
+government and people to the peaceful work of Mr.
+de Lesseps in his herculean efforts in behalf of the
+Panama Canal.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Napoleon was at the height of his tinsel glory in
+1867, but the triumph of the Empress Eugénie was
+reached in 1869, at the fêtes in Egypt attending the
+opening of the Suez Canal, certainly in her case a
+well-merited one, her efforts as a relative of de
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_165'>165</span>Lesseps having contributed so much to the success
+of that great enterprise. One would hardly have
+imagined then, while looking upon her in all her
+grace and loveliness, in every way the queen of the
+festivities, that the over-throwing of the Empire
+was so soon to follow.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The celebration of our “Fourth of July” at the
+Pré Catalan in the Bois de Boulogne was omitted
+in 1867, as noted, and I have heard that this was
+done at the especial request of the French government,
+and I suppose it was made in such a way that
+it would not have been easy or in good taste to
+refuse. All the same I could not understand what
+our celebration had to do with the death of Maximilian,
+and I regretted extremely that our representative
+succumbed to the pressure brought to
+bear. I never learned whether it was the result of
+orders from Washington, or if our Minister took the
+responsibility, for such an act does not seem to
+harmonize with the character of General John A.
+Dix, though he was the most courteous of gentlemen.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Paris in 1869.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>On the 21st of May, 1869, I wrote my sister—“Paris
+is now filled with American diplomats,
+Washburn, Jay, Burlingame, Marsh, etc., most of
+whom I have seen. Burlingame dined with me ten
+days ago, and expatiated on the charms of everything
+in California.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Among my guests at my apartment just off the
+Boulevard, were members of congress, prominent
+men of business and science, diplomatic representatives,
+and others, meeting there as they turned up
+in Paris on their European trips for relaxation.
+They were generally Americans, as my ambitions
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_166'>166</span>were all identified with my native country, but I
+would often have a sprinkling of Frenchmen or
+English to give variety and there, in the neutral
+territory of my smoking-room, all restraint thrown
+aside, men who at home belonged to political
+parties sometimes in bitter opposition, would meet
+and express their opinions in a way that would have
+been impossible in New York or Washington.
+Sparks of wit would fly off from the fast working
+grindstone of this unpretentious salon, and there
+was plenty of valuable information to be picked up
+by any one who would take the trouble to go there
+with his eyes and ears open.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Burlingame and China.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>At a farewell banquet given to Major General
+John A. Dix, U. S. Minister to France, at the Grand
+Hotel, June 1st, 1869, by the American residents
+at Paris, the Hon. Anson Burlingame was present
+and was introduced by the presiding officer Hon.
+Elliot C. Cowdin, as one who “pleaded for the
+rights of four millions of slaves until their last fetter
+fell. He now in loftier tones pleads before the
+nations the cause of four hundred millions of men.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1867, Prince Kung, regent of the Empire of
+China, offered to appoint Burlingame, who was
+United States Minister to China appointed by
+President Lincoln, special envoy to the United
+States and the great European powers, for the
+purpose of framing treaties of amity with these
+nations, an honor never before conferred upon a
+foreigner.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>He resigned as U. S. Minister to accept this mission
+around the world, and arrived at the United
+States the head of a numerous party, in March,
+1868.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_167'>167</span>In the course of his remarks the following year
+at the banquet to General Dix, he said:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“While we do not interfere in other people’s
+affairs, nor permit them to interfere in ours, we
+cannot forget that we are a great nation, that we
+cannot abdicate our responsibilities, that we must
+take our part in the peaceful police of the sea and
+the land, and in the maintenance of those principles
+of international law, which recognize the equality
+of nations as we recognize the equality of men.
+That, as it is the highest duty of every society to
+protect the weak from the strong, so the weak
+nations and struggling peoples should find ample
+protection in that sense of justice of the strong
+nations which they cannot lose and prosper.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame visited <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg the last
+of the European capitals, and died there at forty-eight
+years of age, on Washington’s birthday, 1870,
+about a year after the original departure from
+China. I first met him when he had the Chinese
+Embassy in London, then frequently in Paris, and
+the last time in Stockholm before we left.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Union Pacific Railroad.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In the speech of Ex-Governor Alexander H.
+Bullock at this banquet, he said with reference to
+the mission of Burlingame, and the Union Pacific
+Railroad just completed:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“The great work is done, and hereafter the states
+are a unit in commerce as in government. Before
+my friend Mr. Burlingame has half completed his
+cosmopolitan mission, the freight trains have been
+made up at San Francisco, laden with the product
+of China, and by the time he shall have unpacked
+his trunks at Berlin, he may drink at the breakfast
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_168'>168</span>table his favorite tea, which, thanks to the irrepressible
+and irresistible Yankees, has been brought
+round to him the other way.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Curtin-Drexel Dinner.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>My first thought of seeing <em><span lang="fr">Le Canal de Suez</span></em>, of
+going to the opening ceremonies which took place
+on the 17th November, 1869, was the result of a
+dinner given at the rooms of Bowles Brothers &#38;
+Co. early in July of that year.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The dinner was given in honor of Governor
+Andrew G. Curtin of Pennsylvania, who had been
+appointed U. S. Minister to the Russian court at
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and was then <em><span lang="fr">en route</span></em> to his post,
+and to Mr. Anthony J. Drexel of Philadelphia, who
+was making his first visit to Paris after the establishment
+there of the branch house of Drexel,
+Harjes &#38; Co.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Among the guests present I can now recall the
+Hon. Elihu B. Washburn U. S. Minister at Paris,
+Hon. Anson Burlingame at the head of the Chinese
+Embassy, Major General the Hon. Nathaniel P.
+Banks M. C., Hon. Zachariah Chandler U. S.
+Senator, Hon. Fernando Wood M. C., Mr. John C.
+Lee, of Lee, Higginson &#38; Co., and Mr. S. Endicott
+Peabody afterwards a partner in the house of J. S.
+Morgan &#38; Co.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Charles Bowles then and there suggested that
+General Banks and I go to the opening of the Suez
+Canal. I talked with the General about it and we
+agreed to meet in Paris the middle of September,
+and start on the trip.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went first to Hamburg, then to Copenhagen,
+where we arrived about the 20th of September, and
+met General Waldemar Rudolph Raasloff, Chargé
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_169'>169</span>d’Affaires from Denmark to the United States, 1858
+to 1862, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary
+1864 to 1866, and then on to Stockholm,
+where we saw a great deal of Mr. Burlingame, who
+had just arrived with the Chinese Embassy.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>At Stockholm.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>From a letter written to my sister from Stockholm
+I take what follows under date of October 4,
+1869:—“You will be, doubtless, somewhat surprised
+at seeing from the heading of this, how far I
+have managed to get from my beloved Paris without
+any previous warning. With General N. P.
+Banks M. C. from Massachusetts, I set out on the
+trip which he was very desirous of accomplishing,
+first through the north countries of Europe, and
+then through Russia to Constantinople and the
+opening of the Suez Canal.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There is not a man in the United States just now
+who is a more valuable companion for such a trip.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We have been passing several days here very
+pleasantly though quietly, and tonight after dining
+with the U. S. Minister, General C. C. Andrews, we
+take the steamer direct for Saint Petersburg, where
+I shall have an opportunity of revisiting and seeing
+in a more summer like garb the scenes of my former
+triumphs.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame happens to be here with all the
+Chinese, and they cause an immense sensation in
+the city. The square in front of our hotel is continually
+crowded with groups of curious ones, trying
+to catch a glimpse of the Celestials, as they sit
+complacently at their windows and gaze and smile
+benignly on the people below.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Burlingame, General Banks and I have long
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_170'>170</span>talks, lasting late into the night, about everything,
+which generally end in glorifying the grandeur of
+the great Republic.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General Banks, Denmark and Sweden.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>There is to be held this year (1904) a Shakesperian
+ celebration marking the 300th anniversary
+of the first printed edition of the tragedy of Hamlet,
+and a portrait statue of Shakespere is to be erected
+on the road to Kronborg Castle, the foundations of
+which are now said to be insecure through the
+undermining of the tides. I remember well after
+our visit to Hamlet’s castle at Elsinore, and promenade
+on the terrace, when we returned to the
+hotel, and had dined, and were in adjoining rooms,
+before retiring, the General was full of the inspiration
+of the scene, and repeated to me many of the
+lines of Hamlet appropriate to the place and
+occasion. It seemed to me as if he knew the whole
+play by heart.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At Stockholm the house he especially wanted to
+see was that of Swedenborg,—founder of the
+Swedenborg religion,—and we went there one day.
+It was a simple dwelling as I now recall it after
+these many years. We made an excursion, also,
+to the town of Upsala, famous for its university.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The American Minister Gen. Christopher Columbus
+Andrews, of Minnesota, who had but recently
+been appointed, gave us a dinner, and all in his
+power to make our sojourn agreeable and instructive.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>A Review of the Army.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>We saw a review of the army by King Oscar, and
+were told afterwards how much he regretted he had
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_171'>171</span>not known we were there, so that he could have
+invited us to join his staff, and take part in it.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Raasloff, Banks and the Islands.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In Copenhagen at the Raasloff lunch of perhaps
+20, after he was elected deputy, General Banks
+made at table one of his effective impromptu short
+speeches. General Raasloff was the only candidate,
+and thus his election was not difficult, but
+he never recovered from the disappointment of
+our government not taking the island of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+Thomas, when he supposed it was all settled
+between the United States and Denmark. Banks
+was elected member of congress from Massachusetts
+in 1853, and 1855, Governor of the state from
+1858 to 1861, elected member of congress again,
+with the exception of the election of 1872, from
+1865 to 1877. In 1888, he was again elected, and
+served until 1890. He was chairman of the committee
+on foreign affairs of the U. S. House of
+Representatives in 1865 and later, including the
+years General Raasloff was minister from Denmark
+to the United States. I had heard him often speak
+of the purchase of Saint Thomas, and the disappointment
+of his friend General Raasloff at its nonaccomplishment.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In his judgment we ought to own or control all
+the islands of the West Indies, showing the danger
+to us, as proved by the action of England during
+our civil war, of their being in the possession of
+governments that might be hostile. The blockade
+runners were almost entirely English ships, making
+money out of our troubles by supplying the Confederates
+with articles they needed, and receiving
+principally cotton in return, which was then selling
+at a tremendous price.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_172'>172</span>If the advice of Banks had been followed, the
+War with Spain in 1898, which began by the desire
+to assist Cuba in gaining its independence, could
+not have occurred. He was one of the strongest
+advocates of the purchase of Alaska.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>During my travels with General Banks, then 53
+years of age, from the middle of September, 1869,
+to the early part of December, I always found him
+a very abstemious man. I do not remember that
+he ever took a glass of spirits; I mean by this what
+are called hard liquors. At dinner he would take
+a little wine, and when I asked him what he preferred
+he would say, “Well, you know, I consider
+champagne the most agreeable,” and so once or
+twice a week we would have a bottle. Occasionally,
+at night, he would indulge in a glass of beer.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Nor did he smoke at all. He would say to me,
+“I cannot smoke.” This reminds me that he
+never clipped expressions of the kind, i. e. he always
+said “I do not,” “I will not,” “I shall not,”
+instead of “I can’t,” “I don’t,” etc. It was a
+good lesson for me which I have tried to follow,
+for the abbreviations always seem to me cheap
+and undignified, especially when used in a speech
+or in writing. Of course in ordinary conversation
+it may be to a certain extent different, but, all the
+same, I prefer the two words to the shortening
+them into one.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>To <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Crossing the Gulf of Finland, we stopped at
+several small towns on the way to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg,
+where our new minister, Ex-Governor Curtin and
+the Secretary of Legation Mr. Titian J. Coffey of
+Pennsylvania, both of whom had been but a short
+time in the country, treated us most hospitably.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_173'>173</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Presentations.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>Writing from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg on this date I said:
+“The 27th of October will be remembered by
+Americans as a day of great interest.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Today at 2 o’clock at the Winter Palace, our new
+minister Ex-Governor A. G. Curtin presented his
+credentials and was formally received by the
+Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Our minister’s speech and the reply by the Tsar,
+were short but to the point, and replete with sentiments
+of increasing friendship between the two
+great continental nations of the world, and the
+happy remarks about President Grant and the
+Emperor Alexander will be appreciated by the
+people of both countries. The secretary Mr.
+Titian J. Coffey, was presented at the same time,
+and the United States legation at Russia can well
+be proud of its representatives.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Another event of the day was the review of
+military forces stationed in and about the city, to
+the number of thirty-five thousand, which took
+place on the Champ de Mars. Two great reviews
+are held yearly in Saint Petersburg, one in the early
+spring and the other in January. The review of
+today was especially ordered by the Emperor, out
+of regular course, and whether or not it has any
+political significance was subject of speculation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The display was, as such things always are here,
+very fine, the beauty and strength of the Russian
+horses being especially observed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Besides General Banks there was present General
+Hiram Berdan, who has been for some time in
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_174'>174</span>Russia, and we understand that he has large contracts
+from the Russian government for supplying
+them with his improved musket and cartridges.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Agricultural Exhibition.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In this month (October) there has been a very
+interesting exhibition of the different herds of
+cattle raised in the Russian Empire. This is the
+first exhibition of the kind ever held in the city,
+and it has been an object of great interest. The
+prizes were awarded yesterday by the Grand Duke
+Nicholas, and today the Emperor visited it in
+person. The ladies of the Court have been much
+interested in its success, and many of the farms in
+the neighborhood of the city where the finest stock
+is raised, are owned by members of the Imperial
+family. Its object is to improve the breed of all
+kinds of stock, and to assist as much as possible
+the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
+Animals, especially in everything that relates to
+preparing animal food for the market.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Review of the Troops.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I went to the Review with General Banks as if
+attached to his staff. We were both in uniform,
+he as a major general of United States Volunteers,
+and I as a captain of Light Artillery, in accordance
+with an Act of Congress which allows all honorably
+discharged officers of the Union army to appear in
+their highest brevet rank on any and all occasions
+during life when a uniform is the appropriate dress.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>As a general rule the other armies of Europe
+follow the customs of the great nations, and when
+the head of the government ordinarily wears a
+uniform of course the officers follow the example,
+making it their habitual dress. The Russian
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_175'>175</span>government dresses its men in the best of all colors,
+gray, and besides the trimness and inconspicuousness
+of the uniform itself they have many simple
+appliances, as for instance, the hood or basilisk, for
+the comfort of the soldier, for adopting which the
+rigorous climate of the country has doubtless contributed
+a great deal. The result is, that for
+thorough winter work I doubt if there is any soldier
+in Europe as well prepared as the Russians.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Horses were there ready for us, and we rode along
+the lines and between the squares, on the staff of
+the Emperor himself. It was a fine sight and I
+was specially struck with the enthusiasm of the
+troops for their chief the Tsar. In no country is
+this carried to such a pitch as in Russia. The
+shouts of the men as he approaches are astonishing
+in their half-barbaric ecstasy, platoon after platoon
+taking up the cry in turn. The shouts of these
+strange looking Russians I thought at the time
+implied a power and assurance of fighting well for
+their country and the Tsar, whenever the time
+should come, different from the <em>élan</em> of the French,
+the dogged determinedness of the English, or the
+severe discipline of the Prussians. Subsequent
+events proved that I was not wrong in my deductions.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The army was under the command of the Tsar’s
+brother, the Grand Duke Nicholas, who turned it
+over to its real head as he came down at the last
+moment in his open drosky, and mounted his horse
+which was in readiness for him there.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In connection with this review I recollect an
+amusing incident. It was in the month of October,
+and the weather was consequently becoming rather
+cold, and so a day or two before a general order was
+issued for the troops to appear in their overcoats.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_176'>176</span>This made it a matter of etiquette for us, also, to
+wear some kind of overcoat, and as we neither of
+us had one of a military style, we went with our
+good-natured consul George Pomutz to a tailor,
+where we each ordered a little dark blue cape
+which must be made in a day’s time, and we
+thought would serve our purpose. They did do
+very well, and I have often used mine since in the
+militia, and once lent it to a lady to wear going to
+a dinner party, fastened with a bright brass button.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>General Hiram Berdan.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>General Berdan, of rifle renown, happened then
+to be in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg with one of his famous guns
+he was offering for the consideration of the Russian
+government, and he, too, was at the Review.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Lost Sword.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Fortunately I did not have with me my precious
+army sword, but one I had bought at Paris just
+before starting, an historic sword as the proprietor
+of the little shop in the Rue <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Honoré,—on the
+right from the Rue Castiglione, as you go towards
+the Rue Royale,—where I got it, told me that it
+had belonged to one of the suite of Napoleon at
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Helena, and that one of the family had brought
+it back.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Just before General Banks and I left Saint
+Petersburg for Moscow, we heard that the railroad
+bridge over one of the great rivers had been burned.
+This was indeed the case as we found on arriving
+there shortly after dark, and we had to pass the
+night on the train where we were, and traverse the
+stream the next day in boats, rafts, or any way we
+could.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_177'>177</span>As we had reached the southern side, and were
+stepping on to the bank from the boat, the sword
+slipped out of my bundle of rugs, and fell into the
+river, where I have no doubt it has remained to
+the present time. Morijiks tried to find it for me,
+but the water was very deep, the current swift, and
+it could not be recovered. I doubt if it was ever
+known how, or by whom and for just what purpose
+the bridge was fired, for it was generally believed
+to have been the work of an incendiary.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A short time before, the railroad had been sold
+by the Winans people of Baltimore, who had built
+and largely owned it, for 7,000,000 roubles cash to
+the Court clique, headed by Count Strogonoff, who,
+by the way, came down on the same train with us
+to see what was the matter.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>All the old employés were discharged for some
+reason or other, and their places filled by Poles
+taken from the <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg and Warsaw railroad,
+and so very likely one, or several, of the men
+turned off, devised and carried out this plan of
+revenge.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I remember that Governor Curtin and the Secretary
+Mr. Coffey, whom we had often seen during
+our stay in <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, came to see us off at the
+station. We experienced great difficulty in getting
+any kind of information as to the situation, but we
+were determined to start and run the chance, as we
+had but little time to catch our boat at Odessa.
+As it was, we lost about twenty-four hours, reaching
+Moscow just one day later than we should.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was during our sojourn at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg that
+I received, thanks to Mr. Charles Bowles then in
+America, an invitation from the Board of Trade of
+my native city of Boston, of which the Hon.
+Alexander H. Rice was then president, to be its
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_178'>178</span>delegate for the opening ceremonies of the Suez
+Canal, and to write a report thereon. I consider
+this as the beginning of my service in the interest
+of a canal across the American Isthmus, for instead
+of going to Egypt merely as a tourist and spectator,
+I had some work to do by which my attention was
+specially called to the subject of ship canals.
+Certain it is that since that time with many other
+occupations it has constantly been before my mind
+and is so now.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Individual Enterprise.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>To beguile the time on board ship I jotted down
+the following notes, Odessa, Nov. 7, 1869:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“The idea strikes me forcibly here—that of
+individual enterprise, or rather great results accomplished
+by individuals—because the prosperity
+of this city is mainly due to the unaided efforts of
+two persons. First the Duke de Richelieu, a
+French nobleman who may be regarded as its
+founder, and, secondly, Prince Woronzoff, for
+many years the Russian governor of the province.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>How much any one man can accomplish if he
+will devote himself entirely to the attempt, and
+what a field there is today for such ambition in the
+United States of America! We must have the
+Darien Canal cut, we must have our commerce
+stimulated by a changed tariff; we must have
+cheaper internal transportation for our products,
+and then there will be little talk about the national
+debt. The Secretary of the Treasury will not have
+to sell gold in Wall street.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>On the Way to Suez.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Passing in our journey from the cold autumn
+weather of Russia, partly by rail and partly by
+boat and across the Mediterranean, we reached the
+glorious sun of Constantinople and the tropical
+warmth of Egypt.</p>
+
+<div id='i_179' class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_179.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>FERDINAND DE LESSEPS, 1869.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_179'>179</span>At Odessa we joined an excursion party in one
+of the boats of the Russian Navigation Company
+the “General Kotzebue,” to Constantinople, Rhodes,
+Port Said, Ismailia, Suez, passing through the
+canal, Cairo by rail, Alexandria, and then by
+Brindisi and the Mount Cenis Tunnel back to Paris
+in December.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>General Banks ought to have been invited to
+represent the government of the nation, he was
+then member of congress and chairman of the
+committee on foreign affairs in the house of representatives,
+but he was not appointed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was on this occasion that I made the acquaintance
+of Count Ferdinand de Lesseps, the hero of the
+canal, and my journey with General Banks deserves
+more than a passing notice, for his varied experience
+of the past, and his penetrating observation of the
+present, had given him facilities for seeing and
+judging things in a manner which could not fail
+to be instructive. The strong American stamp
+of his character, while exciting my youthful enthusiasm
+did not bias him in his judgment of European
+or Oriental customs or forms of government.
+From his mind wonderful photographs were taken
+as we travelled together from the North to the
+South, and his quiet and dignified encouragement
+of my aspirations so naturally given in the offhand
+intimacy of a journey, with the mixture of petty
+pleasures and annoyances, were a stimulus which
+came very opportune to me and which I was not
+likely to forget.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Accidentally, too, at different stages of our
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_180'>180</span>wanderings, we were thrown in with several other
+marked and representative types of Americans;
+among them at Stockholm the noble Burlingame
+since then taken away in the midst of his grand
+work of Chinese regeneration; Governor Curtin the
+war governor of Pennsylvania, the genial, kindly,
+bright, wiry type of American politician, and the
+well-known American dentist of Paris, Dr. Thomas
+W. Evans, whose intimacy with the French
+Emperor Napoleon III, and knowledge of the inner
+history of the past twenty years in Paris, made
+him an agreeable and valued companion.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>With the healthy glow of travel, at the most
+delightful season of the year, and the excitement
+of military reviews and gala fêtes at the different
+capitals visited, all ending with the gorgeous
+Aladdin-like enchantments of the week in Egypt,
+when Europe, Asia, Africa, aye and America, came
+at the invitation of the Khedive, and led by the
+graceful Empress Eugénie, offered their congratulations
+at the completion of that international
+work of peace, the Suez Canal,—and the opportunity
+of seeing these sights in the presence of
+many of the most distinguished personages alive,
+and of discussing them with advanced minds amid
+the surroundings of attractive places,—what than
+this could be a better phase of education?</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Constantinople.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>On arriving at Constantinople the captain of
+the steamer gave all the passengers a couple of
+days to spend in seeing the wonders of this extraordinary
+city before continuing our journey.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went to the best hotel, and, after breakfasting,
+whom should we meet in the hall but my old
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_181'>181</span>Harvard classmate Jeremiah Curtin vice consul
+at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg. Curtin is the translator of
+“Quo Vadis” by the Polish author Henryk Sienkiewicz,
+published by Little, Brown &#38; Co. of
+Boston,—John Murray Brown our classmate
+being a member of the firm,—and dedicated to
+another member of our class Auguste Comte of San
+Francisco.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I had seen Curtin in Moscow, when I was there
+in January, 1867. General Banks had known him
+in Washington, Curtin’s headquarters when not on
+his journeys of investigation, and he was very glad
+to meet us both. What he was doing in Turkey
+we could not quite make out, but I think in the
+interest of Russia he was quietly watching the
+movements of the Slavonic elements there, and
+through the Danubian principalities. Besides this
+he was writing letters for one of the great New
+York papers. Mr. Curtin told us that for the
+morning he met us he was to have by appointment
+an interview with the Patriarch of Constantinople
+the head of the Greek Church there, and invited
+us to accompany him, and we were only too glad
+to thus have an opportunity for seeing this distinguished
+personage.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Metropolitan of Moscow and the Patriarch
+of Constantinople are two of the heads of the Greek
+Church. We went to see the Patriarch simply as
+the head of the Turkish branch of the Church.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We started from the hotel on horseback, and,
+winding down some narrow streets to the water,
+crossed it at the Golden Horn, and were soon in
+the old part of the city on the other side, threading
+our way to where the Patriarch lived, amidst the
+ancient houses and quaint shops which were
+swarming with inhabitants, until we arrived at the
+door.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_182'>182</span>We were taken up into quite a large room with
+divans all around it, and ushered into the presence
+of the Patriarch, who sat tranquilly in one corner.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>He was an aged, fine looking gentleman, with
+long, flowing locks and beard, and received us most
+graciously.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We talked, through an interpreter, on various
+matters, and, after partaking of sweetmeats and
+coffee, retired very much gratified with the interview.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>His dress, as also that of the interpreter, was
+curious; being a combination of Oriental robes and
+church trappings like all the religious officers of the
+Greek Church. It is striking and effective.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Arrival at Port Said.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>It was on November 15th a little before sundown
+that our vessel the “General Kotzebue”
+entered the harbor of Port Said, with a very agreeable
+company of Russians, and came to anchor in
+its proper place about seven o’clock.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We took our position on the right in entering.
+The Emperor of Austria had entered just before
+us. Salutes were fired.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>We went on shore to see the U. S. Consul, but he
+was not at home. Left cards on Mr. de Lesseps
+and strolled about the town. Left cards on the
+Vice Roi in his yacht, and saw Nuba Pacha. Met
+Dr. Evans and Dr. Edward A. Crane,—a well
+known member of the American colony in Paris
+and for many years editor of <cite>The American Register</cite>
+of that city owned by Dr. Evans,—on the street
+at Port Said. Later we go to the reception in the
+yacht of the Vice Roi or Khedive, a splendid boat,
+and I was there presented to the enterprising ruler
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_183'>183</span>of Egypt, and first met Mr. de Lesseps himself, who
+from that time has been one of my favorite heroes,
+and who I am free to admit I consider the most
+remarkable man of our day.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>As I now look back through many years to that
+week of fêtes in the land of the Pharaohs, I have
+a kaleidoscopic vision of enchantment worthy of
+the Arabian Nights, and perceive through the
+charm and mystery of the Orient, a work of practical
+modern progress which it softens and adorns.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Return to Paris.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I was with General Banks in Paris after our
+return from Egypt about ten days in December,
+1869, when he and I, with Paul Forbes, Anthoine
+de Gogorza, Alexandre Boyer, two Erlangers,
+Emile and Louis Count Excelmans, Dr. Evans,
+General Charles B. Norton, and others, were
+organizing the Darien Canal Company. Then he
+went to Washington for the session of congress,
+and I remained in Paris.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_184'>184</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER NINTH.<br> <span class='c010'>ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> AND EMANCIPATION.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Though watery deserts hold apart</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>The worlds of East and West,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Still beats the self-same human heart</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>In each proud nation’s breast.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Our floating turret tempts the main</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And dares the howling blast,</div>
+ <div class='line'>To clasp more close the golden chain</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>That long has bound them fast.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>In vain the gales of ocean sweep,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>In vain the billows roar,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That chain the wild and stormy steep</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Of storied Elsinore.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>She comes! She comes! Her banner dips</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>In Neva’s flashing tide,</div>
+ <div class='line'>With greetings on her cannon’s lips</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>The storm-god’s iron bride.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>No prairies heaped their garnered store</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>To fill her sunless hold.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Not rich Nevada’s gleaming ore</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Its hidden caves enfold.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>But lightly as the sea bird swings</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>She floats the depth above;</div>
+ <div class='line'>A breath of flame to lend her wings—</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Her freight, a people’s love.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>When darkness hid the stormy skies</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>In war’s long winter night,</div>
+ <div class='line'>One ray still cheered our straining eyes,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>The far off northern light.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_185'>185</span>And now the friendly rays return</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>From lights that glow afar,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Those clustered lamps of heaven that burn</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Around the western star.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A nation’s love in tears and smiles</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>We bear across the sea:</div>
+ <div class='line'>O! Neva of the banded isles,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>We moor our hearts to thee.”</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>—<cite>Oliver Wendell Holmes on Fox’s Mission to Russia</cite>, 1866.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div id='i_184' class='c002 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_184.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>ALEXANDER <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, 1866</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Territory of Russia.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Forty-two years have passed since in Novgorod,
+the oldest town, Russia celebrated the one thousandth
+anniversary of its birth, and erected a monument
+consisting of an enormous globe, in the midst
+of emblematic and historical figures. The original
+Russia was a republic. It occupied a small district
+near the sources of the Dneiper and Western
+Dvina, and the site of the future city of Novgorod.
+Its name was derived from Rūs the patronymic of
+three brothers of a Variag tribe belonging to the
+settlement. The oldest brother was called Rurik.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>More than six hundred years had passed, when in
+the South, Ivan <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> united the independent principalities
+of Moscow, and, in 1505, cast off the Tartar
+yoke from these states, whose rulers proclaimed
+themselves Tsars, and which were accidentally
+discovered in 1553, on the White Sea, by an English
+navigator seeking for a short route to China
+and India. A commercial acquaintance was
+formed which has been intermittently sustained
+ever since with England.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1570, was inaugurated the Russian principle
+of expansion, by conquering the republic of the
+North and annexing it to Moscow. In this process
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_186'>186</span>it is said 60,000 human beings were sacrificed. In
+a circular recently issued by the Ministry of Public
+Instruction through the curators of the several
+educational districts, instructing the directors of
+secondary schools to instil into the minds of their
+pupils a correct theory of the war of the present
+year (1904) emphasis is given to the method of
+treatment of the Russian colonies compared with
+that received by those pertaining to other countries.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It says:—“The western European states draw
+from their colonies an immense income, they live
+on them. Russia expends on her periphery a very
+considerable sum annually, and receives nothing
+from them in return. The Russian periphery
+flourishes at the expense of the centre.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This periphery embraces the colonies of Finland,
+the Caucasus, the Central Asiatic possessions and
+Manchuria.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>During the reign of Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr> the Grand
+Duchy of Finland, which stretches from the Gulf
+of Finland to the Polar Sea, by the peace of Friederichshamm
+was ceded to Russia by Sweden in
+1809, and Poland was acquired in 1814. In 1867,
+Russia possessed about 106,951 Russian square
+miles in Europe and the Caucasus, 248,470 in Asia,
+and 24,210 square miles which were ceded to the
+United States in that year. Now behold a great
+empire with a territory stretching from the Baltic
+to the Northern Pacific, and from the Polar Sea to
+the frontiers of Turkey, Persia, Afghanistan and
+China, crossed by systematically extended lines of
+railway, and divided as in the United States of
+America, into two portions, whose sources of development,
+difference in soil, character of colonization
+and products, call for constant reference to the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_187'>187</span>distinctive titles of “the North” and “the South.”
+Moscow, the commercial and industrial capital of
+the empire, which has remained the home of passive
+conservatism and an asylum for the discontented,
+preserves the tombs of the Grand Princes, and the
+palace in which the Tsars of Muscovy lived and
+other monuments made sacred by tradition, six
+centuries of historical associations surrounding the
+Kremlin.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, a cosmopolitan city was built on
+a European design especially favoring French
+models, with the purpose frankly avowed by Peter
+the Great of having “a window by which the
+Russians might look into civilized Europe.” Like
+Odessa it has more of a foreign than a Russian
+character, but not more than one tenth of the population
+are dwellers in the city, while the agricultural
+element is ever expanding.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The System of Government.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The historical development of Russia has been
+peculiar, and her social and political organization
+differs radically from that of the countries of
+western Europe. Its autocracy is founded on the
+unbounded hereditary devotion of the people,—peasantry
+and nobles alike. The entire government
+of the vast empire is administered from <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr>
+Petersburg, on the principle that the people are
+incapable of understanding the methods of governing
+their local affairs, and from that or from other
+reasons, are not to be trusted with them, so that
+the local self government is anomalous. Created
+by autocratic power through a commission appointed
+for the purpose of “conferring more unity
+and independence on the local economic administration,”
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_188'>188</span>it has not grown into an institution
+from popular wants publicly declared, petitioned
+for and advocated, but derives its main motive
+power and maintenance from the Central Government
+which controls it. Peter the Great (1682–1725)
+introduced uniformity and symmetry into the
+administration of public affairs. After the death
+of Patriarch Adrian of the Greek Church, and an
+interregnum of twenty years, Peter supplied his
+place by an ecclesiastical council a synod which
+still remains the highest ecclesiastical authority, in
+which as a contemporary observed “the mainspring
+was Peter’s power, and the pendulum his
+understanding.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The members of the Synod are appointed by the
+Tsar who is accountable to no one. Next to him
+in temporal power come the Council of State, the
+Committee of Ministers, and the Senate, which is
+the sole Court of Revision for the Justice of Peace
+Courts and for the Regular Tribunals, and is the
+regulator of the whole judicial system of the empire.
+Below these are ten ministries, viz., the
+Ministries of the Interior, Public Works, State
+Demesnes, Finance, Justice, Public Instruction,
+War, Navy, Foreign Affairs, and the Imperial
+Court.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The territorial administration is divided into
+provinces, and each province into districts, all
+varying greatly in size. Over each province is a
+governor, vice-governor, and council. The governor
+is the local representative of the Ministry of
+the Interior and each of the other ministries have
+their bureaus and representatives in the provinces
+drawn chiefly from the nobility and the clergy.
+Every province and each of the ten districts into
+which it is divided, has an assembly of deputies
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_189'>189</span>and an executive bureau elected by the assembly
+from among its members, but the president of the
+assembly is a Marshal of the Noblesse, and a limit
+is placed to the taxation of trade and industry.
+The deputies are elected by the landed proprietors
+of the rural communes, composed of peasants, and
+the municipal corporations. The members of the
+Assembly for the provinces are elected by the District
+Assemblies. The system of government for
+the towns differs essentially from that of the country,
+the towns receiving the advantage of the development
+of trade and industry, the establishment of
+schools, etc. They are of three kinds, “Government
+towns,” “District towns,” and supernumerary,
+each divided into merchants, nondescript,
+and artisans, the artisans being partly made up
+from the population of the agricultural districts.
+The towns have a mayor and council.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Serfs.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Moscow has been described as the centre from
+which serfage radiated, decreasing toward the
+north, east, and south.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>According to the documents of the several periods
+and the statements of travellers, the rural population
+of Russia was composed originally of three
+classes, viz., slaves who were made so by various
+causes—some prisoners of war, others freemen who
+had sold themselves as slaves, others insolvent debtors
+and convicts. One grade higher were the free
+farm hands who wandered from place to place,
+wherever they could find work, and then the peasants
+or small farmers, a distinct class by themselves,
+who were highest in the social scale, and
+who were possessors of land and of their personal
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_190'>190</span>liberty. But in the eighteenth century these distinctions
+gradually became obliterated on account
+of the disproportion between the small number of
+laborers and the large amount of irreclaimable
+land, systematized immigration being impossible,
+and all the classes were rolled into one under the
+name of “serfs,” who were owned by the great
+landed proprietors or by the state, and being held
+as property were bought and sold in families and
+singly, and were deprived of legal protection by
+the Government according to the ukazes of October
+13, 1675, and June 25, 1682, which sanctioned the
+practice of selling peasants and the exaction of
+the payment to the Government of dues on the
+sales of slaves. Free peasants were often kidnapped
+from weaker by more powerful proprietors
+and made serfs, while the same class although
+nominally free were so valuable to those who possessed
+their services that they were not allowed to
+leave their borders, so by this means, and often
+by reason of debts contracted to the proprietor
+a large number became practically serfs before
+serfage was established by law, <em>i.e.</em> before the
+Tsars discharged their obligations to the nobles by
+bestowing upon them a certain amount of land
+with a certain number of laborers attached, thus
+legalizing serfage and the return of fugitive slaves.
+A small proportion of the nobles who lived on their
+estates held the peasants as slaves.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Under Peter the Great (1682–1725) and his
+immediate successor every man was compelled to
+serve the state, and every proprietor paid the poll
+tax of his serfs, who were thus reckoned as taxable
+property, and every unattached laborer was
+arrested as a vagrant. In 1766, by imperial
+ukaze, the proprietors or masters had a right to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_191'>191</span>transport unruly serfs to Siberia for life without
+trial. In 1767 and 1781, it was ordered that those
+who entered complaints against their masters,
+should be punished with the knout or sent to the
+mines, or, what they feared most, made to join the
+Army as recruits. In extreme cases of the cruelty
+of proprietors, the authorities interfered by direction
+of the Tsar, who happened to be informed of it.
+In 1792, the serfs were bought and sold, and given
+away as part of the masters’ working capital, in
+large and small numbers, with and without the
+land, but they were not allowed to be sold by
+auction, nor to be offered for sale at the time of
+the conscriptions. From 1792 to 1861, the estimate
+of a noble’s fortune was based on the number
+of serfs he owned.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Emperor Paul toward the close of the 18th
+century (1796–1801) desiring to limit the authority
+of the proprietors, issued an ukaze that the serfs
+should not be forced to work for their masters more
+than three days in the week, but many paid no
+attention to it, and the serfs still had no legal standing
+in court in order to make a complaint. There
+were indeed enlightened, humane proprietors who
+protected those for whom they were responsible
+from outside interference, and under whose management
+the life of the serf was much easier than
+that of agricultural laborers in some countries who
+are free, but serfage generally, was the reverse of
+this type. The worst suffering was from the
+hands of speculators who bought up the land in
+order to make money in the shortest possible time,
+and parted with the land and the families on it
+indiscriminately.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Even among uncivilized tribes the Russian peasant
+is good natured, easily conciliated, and patient
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_192'>192</span>under extreme hardship. He readily adapts himself
+to circumstances.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the ordinary relations which existed between
+the serf and the proprietor the manor land and
+the communal land were kept separate. From
+the laborers on the rural commune land or village
+system,—the rural commune contains five-sixths
+of the population,—where a share of land was
+distributed to each serf, labor dues, a certain number
+of days’ labor per week, were exacted, also,
+dues consisting of the products of the farm and
+the spinning wheel, in the case of the absence of
+the serfs who were at work in the cities or larger
+towns but retaining, whether they desired it or
+not, their membership in the commune. A large
+proportion of the serfs could read and write and
+were enterprising, self-reliant, and independent.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Emancipation of the Serfs.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The Russian proverb, “A story is soon told but
+a thing is not soon done,” may be consistently
+applied to their great reform, one of the most
+interesting events of modern history,—the Emancipation
+of the Serfs. An effort was made for
+freedom in 1762, by an insurrection led by a Cossack
+with a scheme for creating a peasant empire,
+but he soon met with defeat and his plan failed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1801, Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr> attempted to ameliorate
+the condition of the serfs, and entertained
+several projects for a general emancipation, and
+Nicholas encouraged the consideration of the question
+by permitting six committees to be formed
+for the purpose. The result was that some thousands
+of serfs were emancipated, the custom of
+giving grants of land with peasants was abolished,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_193'>193</span>a number of the worst masters were removed
+from their estates, and some, convicted of murder,
+were sent to Siberia. Yet, when a general emancipation
+was really inaugurated, the leading
+organs of the press acknowledged indebtedness
+to the Crimean War for opening the eyes
+of the country to the dark side of their political
+and social organization. It produced an intellectual
+movement and a moral revival which led
+to gigantic results. Their foes in the Crimea, said
+a Russian writer of the time, whose manuscript
+was widely circulated but never printed, were
+“British statesmen,” “the crowned conspirator of
+France,” “treacherous Austria,” and “Western
+Europe generally.” Militia regiments were everywhere
+raised throughout the country, and many
+landed proprietors spent large sums in equipping
+volunteer corps, but unscrupulous members of the
+commissary department enriched themselves at the
+expense of these patriotic efforts, and the deficiency
+of the country in regard to the resources necessary
+for a prolonged conflict, were soon manifest. “Another
+year of war,” wrote an eye witness in 1855,
+“and the whole of Southern Russia will be ruined.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In this conflict it was the aim of the Tsar Nicholas
+to realize the grand idea of Catherine <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, consort
+of Peter <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr> who succeeded to his throne, of
+driving the Turks out of Europe, but the Allies
+were victorious, and even the despised Turks
+made a successful stand on the line of the Danube,
+and when he, the “Iron Tsar,” the sworn enemy
+of liberalism, died in a soldier’s humble quarters
+in the Crimea, the system he created,—which
+through the sacrifice of the intelligence of the
+people to the increase of military power proved
+the chief cause it was claimed of the national disasters,—died
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_194'>194</span>with him, and as soon as peace had
+been concluded Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> accepting the responsibility
+of the dying words of Nicholas, “my successor
+may do as he pleases, but I cannot change,”
+began a reign by which the public administration
+of affairs was to be improved, in the words of his
+manifesto “by the combined efforts of the Government
+and the people,” not secretly by the
+Administration as had been the custom in making
+slight changes.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In March, 1856, soon after the close of the
+Crimean War Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> addressed to the
+Marshals of the Noblesse of Moscow the following
+words:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“For the removal of certain unfounded reports
+I consider it necessary to declare to you that I
+have not at present the intention of annihilating
+serfage, but, certainly, as you yourselves know,
+the existing manner of possessing serfs cannot
+remain unchanged. It is better to abolish serfage
+from above, than to await the time when it will
+begin to abolish itself from below. I request you,
+gentlemen, to consider how this can be put into
+execution, and to submit my words to the noblesse
+for their consideration.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>These enunciations were received with indifference,
+and further action was indefinitely postponed,
+to the great disappointment of the Tsar, who at
+once instituted a committee called “Chief Committee
+of Peasant Affairs,” composed of high
+officers of the state, and great land owners, among
+them the Grand Duke Constantine, who should
+privately work for these ends, and who would
+make a study of the subject for six months, and
+on the assumption that the Lithuanian provinces
+where the serfs were in a miserable condition
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_195'>195</span>desired it, “The Rescript of Nazimof” was prepared,
+empowering the proprietors to form committees
+for the study of this project with a view
+to definite results in effecting the gradual abolition
+of serfage, and four days later a circular was sent
+by direction of the Tsar, to the Governors and
+Marshals of Noblesse all over Russia, informing
+them of the action relative to the Lithuanian Provinces,
+and a copy of the rescript was furnished
+them in case they were disposed to follow suit.
+This circular produced an immense sensation. Its
+meaning was unmistakable, and convincing to
+loyal subjects of the Tsar, for a few weeks later he
+made public announcement of his wish that, with
+the help of God, and the co-operation of the
+Noblesse, the great work would be accomplished.
+The public press most enthusiastically sustained
+this liberal movement for the amelioration of the
+condition of so large a proportion of the population
+and welcomed the dawn of a glorious epoch
+for the nation in which this obstacle to moral
+progress, a relic of barbarism, should be removed,
+and Russia be placed on equality with the nations
+of the West, and with these advocates were joined
+a majority of the noblesse, among whom were
+numerous educated young enthusiasts, while some
+still clung to serfage as an indispensable source
+of revenue not to be obtained except under the
+rigid rule of the master, and a part of the land
+was to be let go to the peasants. These considerations
+formed an adverse current which was felt
+throughout the country, but no open opposition
+to the will of the Tsar was allowed to manifest
+itself, because of its utter futility. Still, when in
+1857, it became evident that the emancipation of
+the serfs was really at hand the prospect raised
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_196'>196</span>terrible forebodings in the minds of masters, stewards,
+and employers of serfs. By law, it appeared
+that the peasants would receive the land which
+they occupied on sufferance, comprising half of
+the entire arable land of some estates, but no pasturage,
+and it was feared that the emancipated
+peasants would be content to live by the cultivation
+of their own land, and would not consent on
+any terms to work for their former masters.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>During the year 1858, committees were formed
+for the purposes of emancipation in every province
+where serfage existed, the projects which they proposed
+being always subject to revision and approval
+or rejection by the Government. The fundamental
+principles of the movement were intended
+to accomplish the work of emancipation by allowing
+the serfs to remain for a time on the land subject
+to the authority of the proprietors, and during
+this time they should become possessors, by many
+payments or by labor, of their houses and gardens,
+and have the temporary use of a certain quantity
+of land sufficient for their own support, and their
+taxes to the proprietors and the State. The limit
+of this transition period does not seem to have
+been prescribed. The next move was the appointment
+of an “Elaboration Commission,” composed
+of officials and landed proprietors named by the
+Tsar, which formulated a new plan, approved by
+the Tsar, in which the idea of gradual emancipation
+was eliminated, and its place was supplied by
+a general law for the complete abolition of the
+authority of the proprietor over the serf. Thus
+the serfs were to be transformed into small proprietors
+of a commune or village, possessing a
+house and garden and a section of communal land.
+The serf was to be declared personally free, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_197'>197</span>a price was to be fixed by Government for the
+rent of the land. As to the amount, that was
+limited to the land actually enjoyed by the peasants.
+Before the project became a law, deputies
+from the Provincial Committees were summoned
+to <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg for consultation in matters of
+detail before the commission, but this was a mere
+formality and added nothing to the influence of
+the Provincial Committees, or to future results.
+The autocratic power remained supreme. In the
+opinion of the Tsar, “The autocratic power created
+serfage, and the autocratic power ought to abolish
+it.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In 1861, as the time drew nearer there was great
+excitement all over Russia. An actor in one of the
+<abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg theatres shouted from the stage,—“Let
+us proclaim throughout all Russia that the
+time has come for tearing up evil by the roots!”
+And the audience responded with frantic demonstrations
+of enthusiasm. Speech was free, open,
+and unrestrained by police or press censors, and
+public attention was absorbed by the great practical
+issues of the day. The Crimean war had shown
+the necessity of constructing railroads, improving
+roads, and steamboat communication on the rivers,
+of developing the natural resources, and had taught
+them the lesson that even an efficient army could
+not be produced from an ignorant population.
+Accordingly in current speech and in the public
+press different methods of education were discussed,
+and reforms in all the branches of the civil service,
+and as a result of all this they expected an increase
+of military power and the consequent respect of
+Western nations.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>For the furtherance of these reforming projects,
+for the reason that twenty millions of the people,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_198'>198</span>one third of the population, were in a state of
+bondage, precedence was given to the question of
+the condition of the serfs. There were 100,247
+landed proprietors, and of these more than 41,000
+were possessors of less than twenty-one male serfs.
+A proprietor who was owner of 500 serfs was not
+considered very rich, and there were only 3,803
+of these. There were a few whose possessions
+were enormous. One of the nobles possessed
+more than 150,000 male serfs, more than 300,000
+souls; the latter estimate naturally including
+females, though the Russians have a popular saying
+that “Women have no souls at all, but only
+a vapor.” Another noble owned more than half a
+million of acres of land, another extensive mines,
+but there were few very rich families. By far
+the greater part of the territory belonged to the
+state, and one-half of the rural population were
+state peasants whose condition differed from the
+other serfs in that they had more land and more
+liberty, and their position was not so precarious.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Agriculture and the industries languished for the
+lack of free labor, and upon the nation’s honor was
+the stigma of slavery.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The emancipation law which was signed February
+19, 1861, Old Style, or March 3d as we reckon time,
+liberated twenty millions of serfs. The manifesto
+with which the peasantry is said to have been disappointed,
+was read in all the churches and contained
+these fundamental principles, to wit:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“1. That the serfs should at once receive the
+civil rights of the free rural classes, and that the
+authority of the proprietors should be replaced by
+communal self-government.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>2. That the rural communes should as far as
+possible retain the land they actually held, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_199'>199</span>should in return pay to the proprietor certain
+yearly dues in money or labor.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>3. That the Government should by means of
+credit, assist the communes to redeem these dues,
+or, in other words, to purchase the lands ceded to
+them in usufruct.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The domestic serfs should continue to serve
+their masters two years, and thereafter they should
+be completely free, but would have no claim on the
+land. The disappointment in the minds of the
+peasants was in the disposition of the land. Many
+desired that all the land should be given to the
+Communes, making the emancipation in accordance
+with traditional right and their material advantage,
+instead of which they were still to pay dues on land
+they believed to be their own by right. The
+Noblesse were well pleased with the manifesto.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>After a delay of three months, “Arbiters of the
+Peace” were appointed, to regulate the future relations
+between the proprietors and peasantry and in
+the interval cases of insubordination were frequent,
+and even riots, when order was preserved by the
+calling out of the troops. The “Arbiters of the
+Peace” when organized restored order and regulated
+the land question, issued charters, etc. between
+the proprietors and serfs, legalizing the new
+agreements, with or without their consent. In this
+reconstruction many differences were to be reconciled
+owing to the distrust of the freed serfs, but
+gradually they came to know the situation better
+and to help in the progress of the work, which has
+advanced slowly but surely, notwithstanding the
+complaints in some instances of the Noblesse,
+through the wonderful tact of the conscientious
+“Arbiters of the Peace.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The law relating to the dues was as follows:—The
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_200'>200</span>dues were capitalised at six per cent and the
+Government paid at once to the proprietors four-fifths
+of the whole sum. The peasants were to pay
+to the proprietor the remaining fifth, either at once
+or in installments, and to the Government six per
+cent, for forty-nine years, on the sum advanced.
+This arrangement was willingly acceded to by the
+proprietors but the peasants were so backward in
+their payments, that in most cases their fifth had
+to be remitted.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Of this gigantic, though gradual, reform the
+Tsar Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> is acknowledged by all to be the
+chief and most energetic and judicious promoter.
+He was ably assisted by his brother the Grand Duke
+Constantine and the Grand Duchess Helena, a
+German Princess, aided by the Noblesse and the
+landed proprietors, who when assured that emancipation
+was inevitable joined enthusiastically in
+its execution, and also by the peasantry of the better
+sort as soon as they comprehended the advantages
+of the law which gave them back their original
+status in the social scale, and made them once more
+personally free.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>After Emancipation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>It was so-called freedom in 1861, but they had to
+serve as they had done for two years longer, for the
+law had a provision enjoining them to obey and
+work as hard as of old until some new arrangement
+should be made. On appealing to the authorities
+the field work was executed, after a fashion, but
+the harvest suffered for a few years, until the peasants
+began to realize the burden of the taxes they
+were obliged to pay on the land, as well as support
+themselves, and consented to work in the fields of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_201'>201</span>their former owners for a moderate compensation,
+taking advantage of the scarcity of labor, and taking
+their leave on a word or two too much from
+their employers, who are dependent upon them.
+Previous to emancipation it was said that the
+Russians had little or no practical acquaintance
+with pauperism, but now some became fugitives,
+and made it a permanent condition of life, wandering
+through the cities and villages as professing
+pilgrims or beggars, and were supported by the
+alms giving of the merchants, the public generally
+and the monasteries.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Rural Communes.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The government of the Rural Commune or Mir,
+as established by the Act of Emancipation, is by a
+Village Assembly and a Village Elder, but the
+Elder’s authority is limited by the heads of households,
+all having a common responsibility and paying
+a fixed sum into the common treasury; even
+the time of planting, mowing and harvesting, being
+regulated by the Assembly, and all the households
+are equally responsible for the taxes and dues.
+The consent of the Assembly must be obtained if a
+peasant desires to work in the larger towns, for his
+liabilities must be made secure.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Every year the Village has to pay a certain sum
+into the Imperial Treasury, according to the number
+of male peasants; each Village distributing the
+land, according to its own judgment, with taxes
+and dues in proportion to the land, sometimes
+according to the working power of the families,
+which may change every few years, males and
+females alike working on the land.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the meetings of the assemblies the majority
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_202'>202</span>rules, and is decided by a Court of the members,
+composed of heads of households of both sexes,
+standing in groups out of doors.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The office of Village Elder is sometimes elective,
+at others he is appointed by the landed proprietor.
+The office is not sought for, the duties being troublesome
+and annoying, and the pay small. In the
+allotment of the land the number of shares of which
+may or may not be of advantage, according to the
+peculiar circumstances of each, the decision of the
+Commune is accepted without demur. Some of
+these divisions take place annually, others at irregular
+intervals. The system compels the peasant
+to possess land whether he or she desires it or not.
+Every peasant, by the simple fact of his birth,
+possesses an inalienable right to a share of the land.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>All that is necessary for their existence, their
+houses, land, agricultural implements etc., are
+exempt from sequestration, and cannot be taken
+for debt. The peasants on the land belonging to
+the state, have no masters, but are not allowed to
+change their official domicile. They pay taxes and
+dues. Many of them have left the villages and
+have amassed fortunes in the cities, still retaining
+their hold on the land by paying the taxes. The
+remaining land belongs to rich nobles, who rarely
+visit their estates, and the condition of the peasants
+is much the same as that of the state peasants,
+while others live on their estates.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Now, forty-three of the forty-nine years have
+passed, and in January, 1904, the Tsar Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>
+grandson of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, in response to calls for
+legislation relative to a new draft of the present
+code, with complaints of arbitrary conduct by the
+administrative machinery from the highest assemblies
+to the local committees, stipulates that changes
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_203'>203</span>on three points shall be reserved from discussion,
+namely, that the peasant class must remain entirely
+separate, legally, from the other classes; that the
+Commune is to remain untouched by legislation,
+and that the peasant lands are to remain inalienable.
+The autocratic power still remains supreme.
+March 3, 1904, for the first time since the Emancipation
+of the serfs the anniversary was officially
+observed throughout the empire as a general holiday
+and with special services in the churches.
+Thousands stood in the open air, uncovered, in the
+great central market of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg chanting a
+Te Deum.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Death of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr></span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>I was returning to my room in Paris, late one
+Sunday night in March, 1881, having passed an
+agreeable evening, first dining at my old classmate’s,
+E. D. Boit’s, then listening to some music
+and meeting some pleasant people at the house of
+another artist Mr. G. P. A. Healy, and last calling
+with Wad Longfellow upon the Kings, when I
+heard a newsman on the boulevard crying out something
+exciting though I could not catch what it was.
+I bought his extra, “le Soir,” took it to my room,
+and found that the news was nothing less than
+this time the successful assassination on the 13th of
+the Emperor of Russia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It made quite an impression upon me as I thought
+it over, not only because I had met the Tsar two or
+three times, but also from the interest I felt he had
+taken in the cause of the Union during our civil
+war; that he among the crowned heads of the world
+had been, if not our only, at least our out-spoken
+friend and sympathizer.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_204'>204</span>How much in common there was both in the life
+and death of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Abraham Lincoln!
+Each of these men in his own land had been the
+originator and bold champion of a plan of emancipation,
+and each of them had at length fallen by
+the hand of an assassin!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Prince Kropotkin in 1899, gave to the <cite>Atlantic
+Monthly</cite> the following account of the death of the
+Tsar:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>“A bomb was thrown under the Tsar’s iron-clad
+carriage. Several Circassians of the escort were
+wounded. Rysakoff, who flung the bomb, was
+arrested on the spot. Then, although the coachman
+of the Tsar earnestly advised him not to get
+out, saying that he could drive him still in the
+slightly damaged carriage, he stepped out. He
+felt that his military dignity required him to see the
+wounded Circassians, to condole with them, as he
+had done with the wounded during the Turkish
+war, when a mad storming of Plevna, doomed to
+end in terrible disaster, was made on the day of his
+fête.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>He approached Rysakoff and asked him something,
+and as he passed close by another young
+man, Grinevetsky, the latter threw his bomb at their
+feet, between himself and Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, so that
+both of them should be killed by the terrible engine.
+They lived but a few hours.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> lay upon the snow, profusely
+bleeding, abandoned by every one of his
+followers! All had disappeared. It was cadets,
+returning from the parade, who lifted the bleeding
+Tsar from the snow, and put him in a sledge, covering
+his shivering body with a cadet mantle, and his
+bare head with a cadet cap. And it was one of the
+Terrorists, Emelianoff, with a bomb wrapped in a
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_205'>205</span>paper under his arm, who, at the risk of being
+arrested on the spot and hanged, rushed with the
+cadets to help the wounded man! Human nature
+is full of these contrasts.”</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It was at the canal bridge near the Nevski Prospect
+that the bomb which shattered the body of
+the Tsar below the waist was thrown, and he died
+within an hour at his rooms in the Winter Palace.
+It is said that these rooms and their contents have
+never been disturbed in the least since the murdered
+Tsar left them for his drive. The hands of the
+clock on the mantel still point to 33 minutes past 3,
+the moment the Tsar expired.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Monument at Moscow.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>August 28, 1898, a monument to Tsar Alexander
+<abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> was unveiled at Moscow. His grandson, the
+present Tsar, Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> issued a ukase referring
+to the event and eulogizing the deeds of the deceased,
+notably the liberation of the peasants from
+bondage, which earned him the title of “The Deliverer,”
+in the mouth of a grateful people. The closing
+words were as follows:—</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Medals Made Hereditary.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Wishing to seal more firmly the memory of this historical
+deed, we have resolved to make hereditary the wearing
+and possession of the medals he conferred upon his co-operators,
+as a sign of his gracious acknowledgment of
+their labors.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Tsar also sent to M. Constantin Pobiedonostseff,
+Procurator General of the Holy Synod, the
+decoration of the Order of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Andrew, together
+with an imperial rescript reminding him that he, of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_206'>206</span>all the close co-operators with the deceased monarch,
+alone remained in possession of the chiefship
+of the administrative department then intrusted to
+him.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The monument was unveiled by Emperor Nicholas
+<abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> at 3 o’clock in the afternoon, in the presence
+of the Czarina, the Queen of the Hellenes, the
+Cabinet, the German and Austrian Ambassadors,
+deputations from all the land and naval forces of
+Russia and the Austrian Uhlans Regiment.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The entire audience knelt while the clergy recited
+a prayer in memory of the deceased.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>At the moment of the unveiling the troops presented
+arms, and a salute of 320 guns was fired.
+Then the troops, with the Emperor at the head,
+marched past the monument amid the enthusiastic
+cheers of the people.</p>
+
+<div id='i_207' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_207.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>ODESSA, 1899.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_207'>207</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>CHAPTER TENTH.<br> <span class='c010'>EUROPE AND AMERICA IN 1870. DEMETRIUS GOUBAREFF. RUSSIA AND THE UNITED STATES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c011'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“Peace—but the ships of steel increase,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And statesmen watch, perplexed:</div>
+ <div class='line'>What is the thing we folk term ‘peace’?</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Where will the war be next?”</div>
+ <div class='line in24'>—<em>Edwin L. Sabin.</em></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>In London, Paris and Nice.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Introductory Remarks.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The ideas I give of Europe contained in the following
+sketch written in London in April, 1870,
+came to me from a residence of two years there, during
+which time I had been constantly watching
+events, and had been thrown with many of the
+leading statesmen and financiers of the United
+States.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>What I pretended to know of the Eastern question,
+I learned from the journey I made the previous
+autumn through Russia, Turkey and Egypt,
+with General Banks. It then struck me that it
+would be well to open the eyes of the American
+people to what was passing there as impartially as
+possible, as thus far the English accounts had been
+one-sided. I may appear to favor Russia too
+strongly, but the boat in which we made the journey
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_208'>208</span>from Odessa to Egypt, and then through the Suez
+Canal, was filled with Russian representatives, persons
+representing almost all the Russian interests,
+and they spoke to us, being Americans, most freely
+on these subjects, and in such a way that we were
+much impressed with the high ambitions of that
+empire. It would have been difficult to have made
+the journey under more favorable auspices.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The picture I drew of the future of the United
+States was very strong, but the more one lives
+away from America, the more he appreciates her
+greatness, and the position she must surely hold
+among the nations of the world, and I thought it
+good to put the plain facts and statistics before
+Europeans as well as Americans.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>This paper, which I offered to the press, did not
+appear originally in the form of a contribution, as
+the war suddenly broke out between France and
+Prussia before this was accomplished, but I had
+copies of it printed in a pamphlet for private circulation,
+and in that way it was quite generally read
+and discussed.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I was of the opinion that neither Americans nor
+Europeans were sufficiently alive to the position
+which the United States was destined soon to hold
+among the nations of the world, and that they ought
+to be diligently preparing themselves for it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Having faith that the Great Republic will not
+only remain undivided, but increase in territory,
+population and strength, it logically follows that
+she must later be the controlling power. In her,
+humanity, commingled together and then reorganized,
+will practically carry out the idea of self-government,
+and such a government, if successful,
+will be irresistible.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_209'>209</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'>“<span class='sc'>Europe and America in 1870.</span>”</h3>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“Wars and rumors of wars must be, it would seem, for
+many years to come the staple of talk in Europe. Nor is
+this remarkable, so many different nationalities and languages,
+so much intelligence and energy, and so many
+shades of ambition being concentrated in a small space of
+territory. Thus far in the history of the Old World those
+in power have generally sought by arms or state craft to
+strengthen the country in whose destiny they were interested.
+Constant wars have been the result.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The principles of international interest, of working in
+harmony to develop the resources of the globe, of which
+perhaps the best exponent is trade and the necessary concomitant
+peace, have been unfortunately considered
+beneath the dignity of those who by birth, by fortune, or
+by talent, have been able to hold leading positions.
+Happily this is being changed. The great discoveries
+of the last fifty years have given the world such an impulse
+as it never received before. The comparative ease of
+making money and of possessing it in safety, has caused
+persons to look after their own interest more than that of
+those who chanced to be their rulers. But the process of
+change is slow, and emperors and kings are still able to
+make wars even in opposition to the will of their subjects.
+Wars are still not only a possibility, but a probability, and
+every one is on the lookout for them. When there is lack
+of other business, the cabinets of Europe will turn their
+attention to the always vexed question of the balance of
+power.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>When newspaper editors are in want of interesting
+matter to fill their sheets, they can ever bring out a glowing
+statement of the Eastern question, or dilate upon the
+relations existing between France and Prussia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The map of Europe never ceases to be an entertaining
+study, and so a slight review of the present state of affairs
+there, as seen and judged by the disinterested traveller,
+may perhaps offer some points of interest to those who are
+unable to make the journey themselves.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>No one nation in Europe, today, seems to have a preponderating
+influence over the others.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>England and France.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>England and France for a long time the most powerful
+have not, during the last ten years, been making any international
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_210'>210</span>progress, and if they have not by this been actually
+losing their influence, they have remained in a state
+of inaction, while others have made great advances to
+equal or eclipse them. Nor is there to be seen in them
+any prospect of changing their policy.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>England is so much occupied with domestic questions,
+especially those relating to Ireland, that she can give little
+time or thought to anything else, unless of very great
+import.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In France the holding the various discordant elements
+in check, and forming out of them a strong and popular
+government, is absorbing all the talent of her statesmen.
+The aggressive enterprises that the existing government,
+or rather that its head, has lately undertaken, have been
+so fruitless and so doubtfully indorsed by the people, that
+it is not probable anything of the kind will again be tried
+unless upon an almost certainty of success.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Prussia.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Prussia may with a certain show of reason consider
+herself the leader, but her, so to speak, inland position,
+and the consequent difficulty of her having great naval
+or commercial power, prevent her from taking that place
+to which her arms and politics might entitle her. Besides
+this her relations with both Northern and Southern Germany
+are in a preparatory state, and the uncertainty of
+her future movements, and of how they will be accepted,
+is a present point of weakness. She is recognized to be
+the strongest German nation, but the smaller independencies,
+certain though they may be of becoming eventually
+absorbed, are tenacious of preserving their individuality
+as long as possible. They hesitate about siding with
+or against Prussia, and as she cannot well now press the
+question, matters are more or less at a standstill.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Austria.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Austria cannot, since the Peace of Prague, be regarded
+as a first-class power of Europe; she must regain her lost
+strength first, and for some time to come she will best
+attempt this by solidifying her relations with Hungary,
+and by infusing more advanced principles of government
+into the authorities at Vienna.</p>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_211'>211</span>
+ <h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Spain.</span></h3>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c015'>In Spain, affairs are still holding their uneasy course,
+and the world looks on astonished at the way the country
+is taking care of itself; so many forms of government
+proposed by so many different candidates that, in reality,
+there is next to none whatever, but, to balance this, a fair
+amount of contentment among the people. Not knowing
+what they wish, the Spaniards drift on very well with
+what they have.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Italy.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In Italy, economy is so necessary to preserve the
+country, that no thought can be given to any foreign
+ventures, while at Rome all other questions are dropped,
+so long as the Ecumenical Council is sitting there in state.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Denmark, Norway and Sweden.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Denmark, Norway and Sweden, are engaged in discussing
+topics of much local interest, and which may
+perhaps, result in the unity of the three nations, but they
+will have little influence upon the general march of events
+in Europe.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russia.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Russia remains, as the last great nation to be discussed,
+and here, on the stepping stone between Eastern and
+Western ideas and civilizations, can be found the germs
+of those movements which if not immediately forthcoming,
+will, when they burst forth, startle the world with their
+grandeur, and essentially change the features of the map
+of Europe.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Russian Empire as it exists today,—the Russia
+of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Gortschakoff,—the country which
+has emancipated twenty million serfs and offered an equal
+trial by jury to all its citizens, this nation, which, day by
+day is increasing its territory and influence at home, and
+which during a civil war in the other hemisphere extended
+a kindly though many will say a not disinterested hand
+to the party which represented progressive principles, the
+Russian Empire, the friend of the American Republic, has
+many qualities which might justly entitle it to leadership,
+but the strange mixture of European and Asiatic elements
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_212'>212</span>in that country, so great in extent and so ambitious of
+progress, as interpreted by it, is the cause of a confusion
+of ideas, and prevents that unanimity of action which is
+necessary to insure the respect and obedience of others.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Moreover, although the spirit of the people is extremely
+democratic, the policy of the government is autocratic,
+and in the latter part of this century it is impossible for
+any but a government founded on popular principles and
+supported by the people themselves, to command the
+esteem and the envy of the masses in other portions of the
+civilized world, and thus to give them laws. The seeds
+of dominion are there, but it will take time for them to
+ripen and bear their fruit.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Equipoise of Power.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>From this slight review of the position of the European
+nations in 1870, one cannot help being impressed with the
+equipoise of power, and concluding that this itself is a
+strong guarantee of peace, but, in reality the peace is not
+well founded, and cannot be abiding. It is an armed
+peace, and as such, may cause the people deep anxiety.
+Several millions of men in Europe, today, are wearing the
+dress and drawing the pay of soldiers, and all for nothing.
+Disarming is continually talked of, but is not being begun,
+nor will it be, as long as the nations are mutually afraid
+of each other. The pursuits of industry and commerce,
+which would develop with increasing force if peace were
+secure for ten or twenty years, are now, to a great extent,
+held in check. Capitalists are afraid of embarking in
+great enterprises, as they know not what may take place
+before they will be completed. Thousands of laborers,
+able-bodied and intelligent, through fear of being drawn
+into military service are leaving the lands of their birth
+and emigrating to distant shores, there to seek their
+fortunes: a great gain to the countries which receive them,
+but a more than proportionate loss to those they leave,
+as their places cannot be filled.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One should not seriously wish for war, except in the
+most extreme cases, and where the prospect of the good
+to follow seems more than to compensate for the immediate
+evil.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Looking into the Future.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Without admitting this to be the case now, but believing
+that the present peace cannot, from the press of circumstances
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_213'>213</span>last many years, let us look a little into the future,
+and try to divine where it will be first broken, and what
+will be the results. It is to the East of Europe we must
+turn our thoughts, and here it seems as if great events
+would soon be in motion. The problem to be solved is
+the dismemberment of the Ottoman Empire, and the consequent
+independence of one nation, and the increase in
+power of several others.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The actors in the drama will be Turkey, Russia, Egypt,
+Greece, and perhaps the Slavonic portions of Austria, the
+theatre will be parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa, and the
+most interested spectators will be France, England, and
+the United States.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Possession of Constantinople.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>It must be well borne in mind that the integrity of
+Turkey has been guaranteed for many years, if not actually
+preserved, by the cabinets of France and England.
+So many pamphlets and articles have been written by
+those representing the interests of those governments on
+one side, and so little has been said on the opposite side,
+that it has almost become an acknowledged fact that the
+carrying out of this idea is necessary for the peace of
+Europe and of the world. Their arguments are strong,
+but will not influence him who visits Constantinople with
+an unprejudiced mind. The key to the riddle is the
+possession of that city. England and France know that
+they themselves cannot obtain it, and this being the case,
+they are determined to do all in their power to prevent any
+other nation from doing so. It is almost impossible for
+one who has not been there himself, to form a fair opinion
+of what should be the future of that beautiful city of the
+East, but once there, the decision is soon reached that it
+should no longer belong to the Turks, but to some people,
+whoever they may be, who will do justice to the advantages
+Nature has given it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Constantinople is so placed that it is one of the keys of
+the waters of the world, and as such it ought to be a great
+commercial centre. The city, as it now is, renders this
+impossible, and the Turks, judging from their antecedents
+and their present manner of existence, are incapable of
+change.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>A distinguished statesman of the United States (Gen.
+N. P. Banks) one day asked the Turkish minister at Washington,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_214'>214</span>if in his country there were many persons celebrated
+for their success in finance or business.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Minister slowly opened his dark mysterious eyes,
+and with a half-amused, half-pitying gaze, replied:—</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>‘Sir, my countrymen know nothing of affairs, the Turks
+are warriors.’</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In the quiet answer of that Turk, a man who held not
+only a high position in his own country, but had also seen
+the active life in America, there is a meaning which one
+cannot well appreciate who has not been among the people
+of whom he spoke. They seem to belong to a different
+age and world from ours. They know almost nothing
+of the wonderful things every day done in this nineteenth
+century, and, if they are told, they take but little interest,
+and are incapable of comprehending them.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>As already stated the city of Constantinople, until
+radically changed, does not admit of greatness. Some
+of the civilizing appliances of this century judiciously put
+in movement, would soon change the mysterious city of
+the Orient, replete with the souvenirs of Constantine and
+Mohammed, into a great commercial mart. The past
+would be sacrificed for the future, but the sacrifice would
+be justifiable. Useless Romance would drop her fascinating
+garment, and stand arrayed as the goddess of
+Practical Progress.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The question then is, who will begin the work?</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Turks will certainly not; indeed, their opposition
+to it will be so strong that it cannot well be undertaken
+until they see that their empire is broken, and that their
+natural refuge is over the water into Asia, where they
+belong.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The mover of all this will be a nation which has the most
+to gain from the results,—Russia, and fortunately a
+nation fired with the ambitions of progress, and with
+sufficient power to be able to carry them out. The intelligent
+men of Russia know that it is needful to the dignity
+of the nation, as a sentiment, to its safety militarily, and
+to its commercial prosperity, to have all the water rights
+and privileges in the Black Sea, and in the straits which
+connect it with those waters which are acknowledged to
+be the common property of mankind. Until this is
+brought about their machinery is clogged, and for this the
+possession of Constantinople is so important as almost to
+be a necessity.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Russians are already at the work, and the faster it
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_215'>215</span>advances the better. Slowly and steadily since the peace
+was signed at the end of the Crimean War, the government
+at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, deeply humbled then, is preparing for
+the struggle which will restore her lost rights, and give her
+many additional ones. Day by day, she is spreading out
+her net-work of railroads, steamboats, telegraphs, and
+post-roads; imperceptibly she is increasing her territory,
+and this on principles so judiciously arranged for the
+conquered, that each fresh Asiatic horde absorbed, soon
+becomes as proud of the grandeur of Russia as if it had
+always been a part of the empire. Vessels for the navy
+and commerce are being built on her northern and southern
+seas, and her large inland rivers; her grain-trade is rapidly
+increasing, and her rich mines and other resources are
+being developed. Besides all this, she has a strong point
+of safety in the intense feeling of nationality, daily swelling,
+which pervades all the Muscovites. In sentiment
+the army is a unit, and the entire population of the vast
+empire shout wildly on every occasion for the health and
+prosperity of the Tsar.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There may be something barbaric in all this, but it is the
+stuff out of which national greatness can be made, and it
+may cause anxiety to those countries where such a feeling
+does not exist.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Country of the Pharaohs.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>The nation most interested after Russia, in the division
+of Turkey, perhaps as much or even more interested,
+because her own independence is the prize she can win,
+is Egypt, that historic land, which, once the mistress of
+the world, but today a vassal, has in the future as fine a
+destiny as could be desired. The canal lately opened
+through the Isthmus of Suez, has done more for Egypt
+than fifty ordinary years might have accomplished.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It has turned the thoughts of civilized Europe for more
+than ten years upon that country; it has kept their attention
+interested, and the result has been more than satisfactory.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Europe has not, in modern days, expected to find much
+good in the country of the Pharaohs, but it has found that
+although matters there are not what the sanguine might
+wish, they are still unquestionably in every point where
+comparison is possible, very far in advance of Turkey.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_216'>216</span>The infusion of Western ideas into the inhabitants of a
+land who have been brought up for centuries to despise
+them, is no easy task, but this the Vice Roi of Egypt has
+been attempting, and with fair success. He appreciates
+the age in which he lives as any one who has visited Cairo
+can plainly see, and he feels his superiority over the Sultan
+so strongly, that he is merely waiting for the time to be
+ripe, to openly disobey the orders from Constantinople,
+and assert his independence. Many thought, and with
+reason, that at the opening of the Suez Canal the time for
+this action had come, but nothing was then done, perhaps
+because the armed force of the Khedive was insufficient
+for the attempt, or that having accomplished a great
+commercial success, he hesitated risking a military failure,
+or, more probably still, because the diplomatic complications
+were such that he could not make an advantageous
+alliance.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>For what is to be done Egypt should go hand-in-hand
+with Russia, but at the present time this is a difficult
+combination to form.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>In constructing the Suez Canal, France has done everything
+for Egypt, and the presence of the Empress Eugénie
+at the opening ceremonies was the natural culmination of
+the work.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>An alliance between France and Egypt, strong enough
+to give France a foothold in the East, and thereby to
+checkmate the power of England, but not binding her to
+make a rupture with the rulers at Constantinople on the
+question of Egyptian independence, would be a fine thing
+for Napoleon, but would do Ismail little good. A rational
+alliance between Russia and Egypt, each country working
+for itself and the other, would be desirable enough, but for
+this it would be necessary to give France the cold shoulder,
+and in return receive her resentment.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Russia, France, and Egypt, cannot now combine
+together. The results of the Crimean war are not forgotten
+at <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, and, besides this, the existing
+relations between Russia and Prussia on other European
+questions are such that the former cannot yet offer France
+a friendly hand.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The ambition of Napoleon is boundless, but he knows
+that the prestige he would acquire in working out the
+independence of Egypt, would be overbalanced by what
+would fall to the share of the Emperor of Russia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>England, too, could not keep out of the dispute, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_217'>217</span>although lately she has been very silent on the Eastern
+question, at the moment of action, regardless of what she
+has done in the past, and of her half-promises for the
+future, she would bring great force to bear, and in such
+a way as to derive advantage for herself alone.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Austro-Hungarian Empire and Greece have both
+something to gain from the dismemberment of the Ottoman
+Empire, but, in their present condition, they must
+move in the wake of others, they cannot lead the operations.
+A masterly brain and arm might unite the different
+Slavonic elements on the banks of the Danube, part
+of which now belong to Turkey, and amalgamate them
+into the Austrian Empire, but it is doubtful if this would
+be a desirable move, for, while it would give strength in
+territory and population to Austria, it would tend to
+weaken the German element of the country, and this
+would be fatal if she wishes to be regarded as the great
+South-German nation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The title of Kaiser of Germans, always has and could
+still give prestige, but the same title held by one whose
+empire was in reality composed of Slavs, would not, but
+on the contrary aid the government of Prussia in its plans
+of German unity, and unity on a more democratic basis.
+Austria’s best course, therefore, would be to take no
+active part, but to await the results and turn them as
+best she could to her advantage.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The Greeks and Turks have never loved each other,
+and while Greece is too weak for definite action at first,
+she could later lend a helping hand in the movements
+which would result in restoring to her the provinces of
+Thessaly and Epirus, which though under the dominion
+of Turkey are Greek in everything but the name. Greece
+thus regenerated, might again become quite an important
+country, and with the commerce which the Suez Canal
+opens to her with the Indies, take her place as a growing
+maritime nation.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>There are no other important moves now apparent in
+the horizon of European politics. As mentioned above,
+the great powers are too much interested in domestic
+affairs to be able to give much thought to what their
+neighbors are doing.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It has been expected by many that the continued growling
+heard both from France and Prussia, would sooner
+or later end in open rupture and war, (The Franco-Prussian
+war broke out three months later, July 19, 1870.)
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_218'>218</span>but one who watches the course of events closely can see
+that while they both say they are ready, neither of them
+desires to break the peace. Neither will be the first to
+sound the alarm, for they both know they have almost
+nothing to gain from the result, for, should the war come,
+it would accomplish little but the destruction of the lives
+of many thousand soldiers. Whichever side was victorious,
+the boundary line between the two nations would be but
+slightly changed. The existing line is the natural one,
+for it is the line of language and race, and, although war
+could move it on one side or the other, for a time, it
+would soon fall back again to the plane from which it
+started. The strength of the two nations is so nearly
+equal that neither can absorb portions of the other.
+The Rhine is a German river, and neither diplomacy nor
+war can make it French.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Non-intervention of the United States.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>And now, in conclusion, what position should the Government,
+or rather the people of the United States, take
+in relation to the march of events in Europe? Are we
+to hold forever to our established principle of non-intervention,
+when we conscientiously believe that judicious
+intervention would often advance the cause of progress?</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Better at least keep the right of speaking and acting
+as we please, but use it sparingly, and never hesitate to
+give sympathy and moral aid,—sometimes more helpful
+than actual assistance,—to the parties in any struggle
+which we believe to have justice on their side.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>But when we look into the future, and a no very distant
+future at that, and consider that at the end of this century
+we shall be a nation of one hundred millions, thinking
+persons can easily see that the preponderance of strength
+in our favor will be so overwhelming, that non-intervention
+will be a practical impossibility. The weak of the
+earth will come to us for protection, and we shall not
+wish to throw them off.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>What a country it will be in 1900!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>One hundred million people, all with a strong sense of
+liberty, but not of license; all educated, or desirous and
+able to become so; all ambitious, because the highest
+prizes are within their reach; nearly all speaking one language:
+with private fortunes greater than the world has
+ever seen, and with the natural resources of the country
+then in their flower.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_219'>219</span>One cannot dwell upon this prospect without swelling
+with pride, and at the same time almost trembling at its
+very grandeur.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The mighty Republic of the United States, which sprang
+into existence less than a century ago, will be the acknowledged
+law-giver and arbiter of the entire world.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Perhaps at no time has the temptation for us to mix
+in the affairs of Europe been so strong as today, because,
+selfishly speaking, we have everything to gain and nothing
+to lose. (It must be remembered that <em>every word</em> of this
+article was written in 1870.) A mere spark which could
+any moment be struck at Washington would in three
+months’ time set Europe in flames.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>An excuse like the Cuban difficulty (The independence
+of Cuba, achieved at the close of the century by the assistance
+of the United States in its war with Spain), the long
+pending question of the Alabama Claims, (Claims of the
+United States upon Great Britain for damages by the
+<em>Alabama</em> and other Confederate cruisers, settled in 1872,
+at Geneva, by a court of arbitration.) the relations between
+the Sultan and the Khedive, or the foolishness now between
+France and the United States about the postal treaty or
+the Atlantic cable. Any of these would be sufficient to
+do the work, and what would be the result? (The postal
+union was formed by a congress of delegates representing
+the principal governments of Europe and the United
+States, assembled at Berne, Switzerland, in September,
+1874. A treaty was concluded establishing a uniform
+rate of postage for letters of 5 cents per half ounce.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Thousands and thousands of able-bodied men, with
+no taste for war, and especially war for the gratification
+of crowned heads, would seize every opportunity of
+leaving their native lands and hastening to America.
+It would be impossible to prevent them.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Millions and millions of treasure seeking safe investment,
+would find its way to the United States, and all
+that is wanted to develop the country, is hands to work
+the natural resources and money to pay for it.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>America would become what England has been for
+many years, the strong box of the world. England can
+be so no more.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Telegraph communication and steam have put her so
+near the continent of Europe, that she can no longer be
+regarded as a sure land of refuge for men or money.
+Nay, it is doubtful if she could actually keep out of the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_220'>220</span>conflict. The safe must be separated from the combatants
+by a broader piece of water than the Straits of Dover.
+Three thousand miles are not too much for perfect security.
+The action of the United States could bring on any
+war it wished, but the country itself would have nothing
+to fear. Its strength is so great that it could meet fairly
+in the field any possible combination of the nations of
+Europe. The feeling of animosity between the northern
+and southern states, which has existed during the civil
+war, but which is happily now almost over, would end
+in fraternal enthusiasm if the country should engage in
+a popular war against any other nation. But the carnage
+once begun in Europe could not be carried over the
+Atlantic, as there would be enough to keep it there. The
+United States would be in any case the attacked and not
+the attacking party, and modern warfare has arrived at
+the point that, other things being equal, the party which
+attacks a distant land is almost sure to be worsted.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>What would fall to the lot of the United States would
+be the business of the world. The carrying trade of the
+nations would be done by her, and the problem of the
+revival of her shipping be by the action of others solved.
+All the merchant vessels which plough the Atlantic and
+Pacific oceans, would claim the protection of the Stars
+and Stripes, and this means limitless sums of money
+poured into her treasury, wealth to the country, and
+wealth to private individuals. The prestige of her flag
+would be such as none ever had before.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Path of Peace.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Such is the prospect which opens before the vision of the
+people of the United States today. Deeply conscious of
+our great power, let us be equally conscious of our responsibility
+in best employing that power for the benefit of
+mankind. Let us remember that our path is the path of
+peace, and not that of war, let us endeavor not to be turned
+from it by the constant temptations of false glory, for, if
+we are, we shall ourselves suffer for it later, and cause
+others to suffer.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is for its to show to Europe, not what advantages can
+be derived from war and diplomacy, which are the weapons
+of the past, but what greater advantages can be derived
+from the weapons of the present and the future,—the
+weapons of our own peculiar fabrication,—such as the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_221'>221</span>nobility of labor and universal education and freedom.
+Only by acting thus shall we be able to prove to the nations
+who are even now ‘hanging breathless on our fate,’ that
+we truly carry with us a grander civilization than has ever
+yet been seen.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>From a Letter to My Sister at Manchester.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>“Club House, Newport, August 7, 1870: I was in
+Boston yesterday, and had just about ten minutes
+at 39 Beacon street, where I found your nice letter.
+I am very comfortably established here, in a little
+apartment with my friend Bob. Winthrop of New
+York, and here I mean to have my headquarters,
+running off occasionally to New York or Boston
+and I hope before long to turn up at ‘Sharksmouth.’
+I have been really very much occupied
+the last month, what with my own affairs, <em><span lang="fr">la haute
+finance</span></em> at Washington and New York, with the
+thermometer at 90°, and with occasional visits to
+my friends, and have been very happy with all the
+work. I have my old horse ‘Trumps’ from South
+Carolina, and he is in as fine a condition as when I
+left him, more than two years ago. He reposes in
+solitary dignity in the stable.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Poor Europe in 1870, is terribly changed!</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I am going to print my little article in a pamphlet
+by itself, with an introduction suited to the
+times, and will send you a copy when it appears.
+I came to the conclusion that to alter it to suit the
+ever changing news from Europe would be impossible,
+and would really spoil it, and so I will let it
+remain as it is as one of my first literary attempts.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>I have been to Long Branch, and it is the most
+extraordinary American political rendezvous I ever
+saw.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_222'>222</span>The war in Europe sickens me, so many thousand
+poor fellows to be murdered and maimed for
+wicked personal ambition. The whole business of
+the world is thrown into our hands,—I mean the
+United States of America,—if we only take it.”</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Goubareff the Russian.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>Demetrius Goubareff was a very intelligent
+Russian, to whom I was first introduced in 1871 or
+1872. As a young man he had liberated his serfs
+before the emancipation action of Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>
+and had been a progressive man in every way. He
+wrote a book entitled “Philosophie—Religion.”
+He had, I believe, taken part in the Crimean war,
+and then again in 1879, entered the service of his
+country at the time of the later attempt to obtain
+possession of Constantinople, which I have been
+informed was balked only by the interposition of
+Bismarck. The matter I thought ought to have
+been settled then and there.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Mr. Goubareff lived much at Nice and Paris, and
+often visited London. He kept up an extensive
+correspondence with many interesting persons.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>He passed Sunday with me at Vevey, Switzerland,
+in March, 1876, and we had an excellent
+chance to talk there quietly and at our leisure. I
+found that he was much interested in the “Association
+for the Codification and Reform of the
+Law of Nations,” of which, on my proposing him,
+he became a member. I was very glad of this because
+he proposed to make a good deal of occupation
+for himself out of it, getting acquainted, and
+opening correspondence with many of the distinguished
+persons who were on the list of its members,
+and would prove a very valuable addition to the
+organization.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'><span class='pageno' id='Page_223'>223</span>The following month in Paris Mr. Goubareff
+introduced me to the Golovine family, and we
+dined with them and strolled together in the beautiful
+gardens of <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Germain.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>Russia and the United States.</span><br> <span class='sc'>Written in Boston in 1873.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='c004'></div>
+<blockquote>
+<p class='c013'>“A good deal has been said and written the last ten
+years, about the strong friendship existing between Russia
+and the United States, the coquetting, as it has been called,
+of these two nations with each other.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>That such an <em><span lang="fr">entente cordiale</span></em> has existed is beyond all
+dispute, but the causes of it open a wide field for discussion.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The nations of Europe who have watched its progress
+with some evident alarm for themselves, have come forward
+with many unasked-for explanations, to clearly
+prove that such a thing is out of all reason, that it should
+not be, that it is all nonsense, thereby admitting all the
+more plainly the ugly fact. Particularly kind and disinterested
+have they been in their advice to the youthful
+United States, warning her to be careful, lest she be outwitted
+by the shrewd diplomacy of the Muscovite Cabinet,
+telling her that it was all a smart trick on the part of the
+Russian government, from which they only wanted to
+carry out their own ambitious ends, and this done, they
+would be ready at any moment to give the innocent and
+confiding Americans the slip.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It is pleasant, as a citizen of the United States to feel
+what good friends we have on the other side of the Atlantic,—real
+friends, too,—who are ready to come forward,
+now that we are out of the woods, to save us from the
+terrible fate of being killed by too much kindness.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Like the almost historic personage who was talked to
+death, perhaps there is danger in store for the American
+Republic of being <em>advised</em> to death by her older brothers
+and sisters.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>It does not take an over-intelligent person to see that
+between a military autocracy, under the sway of an almost
+absolute ruler, and a government of the people, intrusting
+the management of its affairs temporarily to its chosen
+representatives, there cannot be, theoretically, certainly,
+much genuine and heartfelt sympathy. This is superficially
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_224'>224</span>the view which any one would take. But deeper
+reflection on the traits, or, better still, living among the
+people of whom such a comparison is made, will show that
+this curious sympathy is not by any means a matter of
+government alone,—important as that is to aid it,—but
+lies hidden in the life of the people themselves, only to be
+brought out by a curious combination of circumstances.</p>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Double Event of Emancipation.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>At times the spark will be struck, and blaze forth into a
+great conflagration. Such a time was the late civil war
+in North America, which was the cause of the emancipation
+of the slaves in the Southern states, when, to correspond
+with it, at about the same epoch, but from entirely
+different causes, came the liberation of the serfs all through
+Russia.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> and Abraham Lincoln then found a bond
+of fellowship existing between them, which nothing could
+break, and the masses in Russia and in the United States,
+were only too ready to take up the double event and magnify
+it in their feeling to an unlimited extent. Then
+many other points of similarity were discovered; the great
+extent of territory of both nations, giving each a future in
+the development of the resources placed there by nature,
+whether on the surface of the earth or under it, which
+restricted limits had denied to the other nations of the
+continent. This same vastness of land, educating many
+to be merchants, and farmers, and miners, and railroad
+owners on a grand scale, caused a corresponding freedom
+of thought and independence of action,—in other words
+democratized the people who had come under its influence,—in
+a way which cannot well be appreciated by those
+whose life is passed in crowded cities alone, where the
+prestige of courts and the presence of cliques make individuality
+much less marked.</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>The two nations, the republic and the empire, owned a
+wide frontage on the Pacific ocean, which they came in
+imagination to regard as a huge lake, and this their common
+property. Other events, too, at this time were used
+with great effect; such as the arrival of the Russian squadron
+in America (The Russian fleet in New York, Boston,
+and San Francisco in 1863.), the visit of Assistant Secretary
+of the Navy Fox in 1866, and that of Admiral Farragut
+in 1867, (Admiral Farragut was in Russia the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_225'>225</span>greater part of August in that year, and it was said the
+friendship and courtesy of both government and people
+were especially marked.) the purchase of Alaska (In 1867,
+organized July 27, 1868.) and the return call of the Grand
+Duke Alexis to the United States. (The third son of the
+Emperor Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr> of Russia visited this country in
+December 1871, and at a banquet Oliver Wendell Holmes
+welcomed him with the following words:—</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>‘Bleak are our shores with the blasts of December,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Fettered and chill is the rivulet’s flow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>But throbbing and warm are the hearts that remember</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Who was our friend when the world was our foe.’</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c013'>There was a gift to the poor of New York when the
+Russian squadron took leave of New York in 1863, a voluntary
+subscription of $4,760 from the officers, and during
+the famine in Russia in 1891, our government sent over
+five large steamers loaded with grain collected from
+almost every state in the Union.)</p>
+
+<p class='c013'>But, supposing there were no characteristics in common,
+it will not soon be forgotten in America that, during the
+long years of the terrible war, while many of the nations of
+Europe were clinging to the policy of keeping an uncompromising
+but none the less watchful armed neutrality,
+rulers and aristocracies in their hearts against the cause
+of the North, while the lower classes everywhere went with
+it, Russia, of all the great nations, alone came forward,
+and gave openly its sympathy to the side which represented
+a more advanced civilization, and which as such, in spite
+of its many disheartening defeats, was bound to triumph
+in the end. A person who is hard pressed in life, when a
+friend comes up to give him encouragement, does not stop
+to reflect why it is given, and try to put a selfish construction
+on the offer, he accepts it on the spot, and is not apt
+to forget the donor in a hurry. So Americans are not to be
+easily persuaded that Russia’s assistance to them at that
+critical period in their country’s history, was a mere diplomatic
+sham and meaningless parade. They are willing
+to be ignorant still, if this is so, and need more powerful
+arguments to disprove them than have yet been raised by
+their officious counsellors.”</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<h3 class='c014'><span class='sc'>The Russo-American Fever.</span></h3>
+
+<p class='c015'>In the year of my first journey to Russia, 1866,
+the Russo-American fever was at its height, and
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_226'>226</span>it was a very pleasant thing for those who caught
+it when travelling in the other country. They
+were fêted and hugged, and wined, and tossed,
+according to the customs of the people, and their
+nationality alone was a sufficient passport to pass
+them along the lines of sight-seeing and pleasure,
+passing unchallenged,—nay, rather invited in.
+The entire nation was in the attitude of “present
+arms” to him from the other country who desired
+to pass through on a tour of inspection.</p>
+
+<hr class='c018'>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c016'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>“And the great ships sail outward and return,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>Bending and bowing o’er the billowy swells,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And ever joyful, as they see it burn,</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>They wave their silent welcomes and farewells.”</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>—<cite>Henry W. Longfellow, The Lighthouse.</cite></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+ <div>FINIS.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div id='i_226' class='figcenter id004'>
+<img src='images/i_226.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>PORT SAID. OPENING OF THE SUEZ CANAL.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c001'></div>
+<nav data-epub-type="index">
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_227'>227</span>
+ <h2 class='c006'>INDEX<br> <span class='small'>TO</span><br> <span class='large'>PERSONS, PLACES, AND SUBJECTS</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<ul class='index c002'>
+ <li class='c019'>Academy of Fine Arts, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Academy of Music, Brooklyn, <abbr title='New York'>N. Y.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Academy of Music, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Admiralty, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>After Emancipation, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Agricultural Exhibition, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alabama Claims, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alaska, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Albania, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>–96, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>–138, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>–175, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>–197, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Death of, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>–205.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alexander <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, Monument, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alexandria, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Alice, yacht, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Allston, Washington, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>–132.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Andrews, Christopher Columbus, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Appleton, D. &#38; Co., <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Appleton, Thomas Gold, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–20, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>–132, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Appomattox Court House, Va., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Army of the Potomac, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Artillery Brigade, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Artists’ Club, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ashuelot, man-of-war, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Asniéres, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Astor, W. W., <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Augusta, man-of-war, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Avenue de l’Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Ball, Thomas, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Baltic Sea, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Baltimore, Md., <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Banks, Nathaniel P., <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>–174, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Barlow, S. L. M., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bartlett, Joseph J., <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Battle of Antietam, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Beaumont, Sir George, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Behring Straits, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Behring, Vitus, discoverer, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bellevue Avenue, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Belmont, August, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>–147.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bennett, James Gordon, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bennett, James Gordon, Jr., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>–29, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Berdan, Hiram, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Berlin, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>–74, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Besborodko, Koucheleff, Count, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bicknell, Albion H., <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bismarck-Schonhausen, Otto Edward Leopold, Prince von, Chancellor of the Empire, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Black Sea, <a href='#Page_214'>214</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bois de Boulogne, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>–40, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boit, Edward D., <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boston, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boston Athenæum, <a href='#Page_128'>128</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boston Board of Trade, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boston Museum of Fine Arts, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boston Public Library, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boulevard des Italiens, Paris, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bowditch, Henry P., <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bowles Brothers &#38; Co., Bankers, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bowles, Charles, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bowles, Drevet &#38; Cie, Paris, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bowles, Robert, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Boyer, Alexandre, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brest, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brevoort House, New York, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brevoort Place, New York, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bric-a-Brac Club, Boston, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brighton Road, Brighton District, Boston, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brindisi, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brown, Edward Ingersol, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Brown, John Murray, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_228'>228</span>Brussels, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Bullock, Alexander H., <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Burgess, Frank, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Burlingame, Anson, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>–169, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Burlington Arcade, London, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Café Napolitaine, Paris, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cairo, Egypt, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cambridge, Mass., <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cameron, Simon, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Camp Douglas, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Carnatz Connection, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Carolina Filly, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Caspian Sea, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Catherine <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Caucasus, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Centennial Exposition, Philadelphia, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cercle des Capucines, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cercle Franco-Américain, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Champ de Mars, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Chandler, Zachariah, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Charing Cross Hotel, London, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Chase, Salmon P., <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Chicago, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Chicago Exposition, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>China, steamship, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Chinese Embassy, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>–169.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Christmas Day, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Church of Saint Sophia, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Church of Sault Isaac, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Circassia, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Clark, Arthur H., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Clay, Cassius M., <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>–96, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Clyde Park, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Coaching Club, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Coffey, Titian J., <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Colfax, Schuyler, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cologne, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Commune, France, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Commune, or Mir, Russia, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>–203.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Compiègne, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Comte, Auguste, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Constantinople, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>–216, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Copenhagen, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Corbin, Austin, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Costume Ball, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>–147.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cotton Exposition, New Orleans, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Country Club, Brookline, Mass., <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cowdin, Elliot C., <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cowes, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cowes Roads, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cracow, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Crane, Edward A., <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Crimea, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Crimean War, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cronstadt, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Crowninshield, B. W., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Cuba, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Curtin, Andrew G., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Curtin, Jeremiah, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Curtis, T. B., <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Danube River, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dauntless, yacht, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Davis, Tom Kemper, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>De Gogorza, Anthoine, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>De Lesseps, Ferdinand, Count, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Delmonico’s, New York, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>De Long, George W., <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Demidoff Mines, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>De Richelieu, Armand Emanuel du Plessis, Duke, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>De Trobriand, Philippe Regis, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dieppe, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>District of Columbia, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dix, John A., <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>–167.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dneiper River, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>D’Osuna et de l’Ynfantado, Duke, Spanish Ambassador, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dresden, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Drexel, A. J., <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Drexel, Harjes &#38; Co., <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dumaresq, Armand, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Dvina River, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Easton’s Beach, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Elsinore, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Compensated, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>–50, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Double Event of, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Gradual, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>–50, <a href='#Page_196'>196</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation Law of Russia, Manifesto, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>, <a href='#Page_199'>199</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Proclamation in the United States, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>–54.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emancipation, Result of War, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Emperor of Austria, Franz Joseph <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>English Channel, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>English Club, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Erlanger, Emile, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Erlanger, Louis, Count Excelmans, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Europe and America in 1870, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_209'>209</a>–222.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_229'>229</span>Evans, Thomas W., <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Executive Mansion or White House, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Faneuil Hall, Boston, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Farragut, David Glasgow, Admiral, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fearing, H. S., <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fetridge, William Pembroke, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fifth Avenue, New York, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fifth Corps, Army of the Potomac, Union Forces, War of 1861-’65, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fifth Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fifteenth Amendment, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fifty-fifth N. Y. Regt. Inf., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Finland, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Finland, Grand Duchy of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Finland, Gulf of, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>First Mass. Battery, Light Artillery, <a href='#Page_158'>158</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>First Mass. Cavalry, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>–158.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fish, Hamilton, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fleetwing, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fogg Museum, Harvard College, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Folies Dramatiques, Paris, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fontainebleau, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Forbes, Paul, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ford’s Theatre, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Forest of Fontainebleau, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Four-in-Hand Club, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fourteenth Amendment, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a>, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a>, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fox, Gustavus Vasa, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fox’s Mission, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fremont, John C., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Friederichshamm, Peace of, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Frog Pond, Boston Common, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Fugitive Slave Law, repeal of, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Gagarine, Julie, Princess, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Galitzine, Prince, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Garcia, John, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gare de l’ Ouest, Paris, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Garrison, William Lloyd, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gautier, Théophile, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>General Kotzebue, steamship, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>German Club, Moscow, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gettysburg, Penn., <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gillig, Henry F., <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Goddard, Ely, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Golden Horn, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gortschakoff, Alexander Michailowitsch, Prince, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gostinny Dvor, Moscow, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gott, Daniel, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Goubareff, Demetrius, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Duchess Helena, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Alexis, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Constantine, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_200'>200</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Duke Nicholas, <a href='#Page_174'>174</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Hotel, Paris, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, Moscow, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Opera, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Prix, Paris, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grand Theatre, Moscow, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Grant, Ulysses S., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gray Collection of Engravings, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gray, Francis Colley, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gray, George Griswold, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Great Eastern, steamship, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Greek Church, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Green, J. Orne, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Gregg, John I., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Hamburg, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Harvard College, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Havana, Cuba, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hayti, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Healy, G. P. A., <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Henrietta, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hereditary Medals, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hermitage, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Higginson, Frank L., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Holland, J. G., <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Holy Synod, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hooker, Joseph, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hotel de la Paix, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hotel Dusaux, Moscow, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hudson River, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hunnewell, Hollis, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hunt, William Morris, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a>–42.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hunter, David A., <a href='#Page_50'>50</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hurlburt, William Henry, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Hyde Park, London, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Imperial Library, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Invitation, Note of, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Isla, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ismailia, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ivan <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Jackson, Charles C., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jagellon, Duke of Lithuania, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jamaica Pond, Roxbury, Mass., <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jay, William, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jeannette, steamship, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jerome, Lawrence, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jerome, Leonard W., <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_230'>230</span>Jockeys’ Ball, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Johnson, Andrew, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Johnson, “Ned”, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Jonesville, East Tennessee, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Khedive, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kimball, Moses, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>King of Prussia, William <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Knapp, A. W., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Königsberg, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kosciusko, Thaddeus, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kremlin, Moscow, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kremlin, Novgorod, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kronborg Castle, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kropotkin, Prince, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Kung, Prince, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Lafayette, Gilbert Motier de, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lamson, Daniel S., <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lane, David, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lee, John C., <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lee, Robert E., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Le Ray, Maurice, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>–67, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, Death of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>–63.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lincoln, Abraham, Statues of, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lithuanian Provinces, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lockwood, Alfred, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>London, Eng., <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Long Branch, New Jersey, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Longchamps, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Charles A., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>–25, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_118'>118</a>, <a href='#Page_119'>119</a>, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>–140, <a href='#Page_142'>142</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>–159.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Ernest, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Longfellow, Henry W., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lorillard, George, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lorillard, Louis, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Loubat, J. F., Duc de, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Louvre, Paris, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lundy, Benjamin, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Lyrique, Paris, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Manchuria, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Manhattan Club, New York, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Manifesto of Emancipation, Russia, <a href='#Page_198'>198</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Marble, Manton, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Martin, Augustus P., <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Maximilian, Ferdinand Joseph, Emperor of Mexico, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mazourka, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_154'>154</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>McClellan, George B., <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>McVickar, William H., <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Meade, George G., <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mediterranean Sea, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Merrill, T. Watson, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mesnil, Baron de, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Metropolitan, Moscow, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Metropolitan, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Miantonomoh, monitor, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mickiewicz, Adam, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mill Dam Road, Boston, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mine Run, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>, <a href='#Page_157'>157</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Russia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ministry of Public Instruction, Russia, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mississippi River, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Morley, Henry, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Moscow, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>–103, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>–118, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Moscow, gas-lighting of, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mount Cenis Tunnel, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Mount Pleasant, Ohio, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Muscovy, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Nahant, Mass., <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_159'>159</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Napoleon Bonaparte, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Napoleon <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>–164, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_217'>217</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Narragansett Avenue, Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>National Museum, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Navy and Army Club, Cronstadt, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Neva Club, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Neva River, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_184'>184</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Neva Skating Club, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nevski Prospect, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_111'>111</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Newfoundland, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New or Mount Hope Church, Va., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>–158.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New London, Conn., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New Orleans, La., <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Newport, N. H., <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>–33, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., Beach, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a>–33, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Newport, R. I., Jockey Club, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New York City, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a>, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>, <a href='#Page_225'>225</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New York Club, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>New York Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nice, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nicholas <abbr title='the 1st'>I.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>, <a href='#Page_194'>194</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nicholas <abbr title='the 2nd'>II.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_202'>202</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nisbet, W. F., <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_231'>231</span>Nobility Club, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Non-Intervention of the United States, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>–220.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Norton, Charles B., <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nottaway Court House, Va., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Novgorod, <a href='#Page_135'>135</a>, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Nuba Pasha, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Odessa, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>–179, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Oglesby, R. J., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Oldroyd Lincoln Memorial Collection, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Opera House, Berlin, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Oriental Quadrille, <a href='#Page_144'>144</a>, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Oscar, King of Sweden and Norway, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Otis, James, <a href='#Page_147'>147</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Otis, William C., <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ourousoff, Prince, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ourousoff, Princess, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Palais Royal, Paris, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Panama Canal, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Paris, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>–11, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>–17, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>–40, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>–169, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_207'>207</a>, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Paris Exposition of 1867, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a>, <a href='#Page_151'>151</a>, <a href='#Page_160'>160</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Passage, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Passage des Panoramas, Paris, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Patriarch Adrian, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Patriarch of Constantinople, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Patriarchal Cathedral, <a href='#Page_114'>114</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Patti, Adelina, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Paul, Emperor, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Peabody, George, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Peabody, S. Endicott, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Perkins, C. C., <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Peter the Great, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_190'>190</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Peter <abbr title='the 3rd'>III.</abbr>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Philippe’s, Paris, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Phœnix, Lloyd, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Picpus Cemetery, Paris, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Pierce, Josiah, Jr., <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Place de la Concorde, Paris, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Place de l’Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Place du Nouvel Opera, Paris, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Plevna, <a href='#Page_204'>204</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Poland, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>–155, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Polar Sea, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Pompeiian Villa, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Pomutz, George, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Port Said, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Post, Albert Kintzing, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Postal Union, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Post, Waldron Kintzing, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Prague, Peace of, <a href='#Page_210'>210</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Pratt, Thomas, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Pré Catalan, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Presentation, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Proclamation of Emancipation, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a>–54.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Raasloff, Waldemar Rudolph, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rappahannock River, Va., <a href='#Page_63'>63</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rescript of Nazimof, <a href='#Page_195'>195</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in France, <a href='#Page_161'>161</a>, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in Russia, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>–176.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Review of Troops in Sweden, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rhodes, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rice, Alexander H., <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rice, A. Thorndike, <a href='#Page_146'>146</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Riggs, Elisha, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ristori, Adelaide, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>River Rhine, <a href='#Page_218'>218</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Riverside Park, Cambridgeport, Mass., <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Roberts, Benjamin Stone, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rome, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>, <a href='#Page_211'>211</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rosalie, <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_125'>125</a>–129, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Auber, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Castiglione, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue de là Paix, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue Royale, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span lang="fr">Rue <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Honoré, Paris</span>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Rurik, yacht, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, original settler, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russell, Harry, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russia and the United States, <a href='#Page_186'>186</a>, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>–225.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russian Beggar, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a>, <a href='#Page_201'>201</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russian Horse, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>–113, <a href='#Page_115'>115</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russian Navigation Company, <a href='#Page_179'>179</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russian Sleigh, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a>, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a>, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a>, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>, <a href='#Page_120'>120</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Russian Yacht Club, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Saint Cloud, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Gaudens, Augustus, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Germain, <a href='#Page_223'>223</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Louis, Mo., <a href='#Page_47'>47</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Michel Theatre, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburg, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a>, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a>, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>, <a href='#Page_116'>116</a>–118, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>–134, <a href='#Page_136'>136</a>, <a href='#Page_138'>138</a>, <a href='#Page_139'>139</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>, <a href='#Page_145'>145</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>–154, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>–169, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_176'>176</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>, <a href='#Page_197'>197</a>, <a href='#Page_203'>203</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburg and Moscow Railroad, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Saint Petersburgh and Warsaw Railroad, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'><span class='pageno' id='Page_232'>232</span>Saint Thomas, island, <a href='#Page_171'>171</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Samanos, Augustus, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>San Francisco, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a>, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_224'>224</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sargent, Harry, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sayles, Henry, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Scilly Islands, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Secession of Southern States, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Serfs, <a href='#Page_189'>189</a>–191.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Serfs, Emancipation of, <a href='#Page_192'>192</a>–203.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Seward, William H., <a href='#Page_51'>51</a>, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a>, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a>, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Shattuck, George B., <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sherman, William T., <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Siberia, <a href='#Page_191'>191</a>, <a href='#Page_193'>193</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Simpson, Matthew, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sixteenth Mass. Infantry, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Smith, Charles K., <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_89'>89</a>–91.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Snead, Thomas L., <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Soldiers’ Home, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Somerset Club, Boston, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Southwell, Viscount, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a>, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Souworoff, or Suwarrow, Alexander Vasilievitch, Count Rymnikski, <a href='#Page_143'>143</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Spanish Ambassador, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Spencer, Lorillard, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Springfield, Ill., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Staigg Portrait, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_122'>122</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>, <a href='#Page_133'>133</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Staigg, Richard M., <a href='#Page_123'>123</a>, <a href='#Page_124'>124</a>, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Stanfield, Harry, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>–19, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Stevenson, Robert H., <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Stockholm, Sweden, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>, <a href='#Page_180'>180</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Straits of Dover, <a href='#Page_220'>220</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Strogonoff, Count, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Suez Canal, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>, <a href='#Page_164'>164</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>, <a href='#Page_169'>169</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>–180, <a href='#Page_208'>208</a>, <a href='#Page_215'>215</a>–217, <a href='#Page_226'>226</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sully, Thomas, <a href='#Page_126'>126</a>–128.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sultan of Turkey, Abdul-Aziz, <a href='#Page_162'>162</a>, <a href='#Page_163'>163</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Sykes, George, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Synod, Holy, <a href='#Page_188'>188</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>, <a href='#Page_206'>206</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>System of Government in Russia, <a href='#Page_187'>187</a>–189.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Talleyrand-Perigord, Charles Maurice, Prince of Benevento, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Tchudova, <a href='#Page_140'>140</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Thies, Louis, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Thirteenth U. S. Infantry, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Thirty-first U. S. Infantry, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a>, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Tilsit, Peace of, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Tivoli, <a href='#Page_152'>152</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Trumbull, Lyman, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Tsarskoë Selo, <a href='#Page_150'>150</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Union Club, San Francisco, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Union Pacific Railroad, <a href='#Page_167'>167</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>United States Treasury, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>, <a href='#Page_117'>117</a>, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Upsala, <a href='#Page_170'>170</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ural Mountains, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Venice, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Versailles, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Vesta, yacht, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Vevey, Switzerland, <a href='#Page_222'>222</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Vice Roi of Egypt, <a href='#Page_182'>182</a>, <a href='#Page_216'>216</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Victoria Theatre, Berlin, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Vienna, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>, <a href='#Page_155'>155</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Ville de Paris, steamship, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Virginia, <a href='#Page_156'>156</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Voisin, Armand, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Volga River, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Wainwright, Charles S., <a href='#Page_62'>62</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>War Department, Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_67'>67</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Warsaw, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_148'>148</a>, <a href='#Page_153'>153</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>War with Spain, <a href='#Page_172'>172</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Washburn, Elihu B., <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Washington Club, Paris, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a>, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a>, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>–38.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Washington, D. C., <a href='#Page_11'>11</a>, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a>, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a>, <a href='#Page_127'>127</a>, <a href='#Page_165'>165</a>, <a href='#Page_166'>166</a>, <a href='#Page_181'>181</a>, <a href='#Page_183'>183</a>, <a href='#Page_213'>213</a>, <a href='#Page_219'>219</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Washington Heights, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a>, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Waterloo, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a>, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a>, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wayman, Bishop, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wheeling, West Virginia, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Whistler, George W., <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Whistler, James A. McN., <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>White Sea, <a href='#Page_185'>185</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Willett, “Bronnie,” <a href='#Page_34'>34</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wilna, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a>, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a>, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a>, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wilson, Henry, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winans, Ross, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a>, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>, <a href='#Page_177'>177</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winans, Thomas de Kay, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winans, William Louis, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winter Palace, <abbr title='Saint'>St.</abbr> Petersburg, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a>, <a href='#Page_121'>121</a>, <a href='#Page_134'>134</a>, <a href='#Page_137'>137</a>, <a href='#Page_149'>149</a>, <a href='#Page_173'>173</a>, <a href='#Page_205'>205</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winthrop, Eugene, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Winthrop, Robert, <a href='#Page_221'>221</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wood, Fernando, <a href='#Page_168'>168</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wordsworth, William, <a href='#Page_131'>131</a>, <a href='#Page_132'>132</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Woronzoff, Prince, <a href='#Page_178'>178</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wright, Frances, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wright, Joseph A., <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Wright, Smith, <a href='#Page_129'>129</a>, <a href='#Page_130'>130</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c002'>Yacht Club Pond, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Yacht Club Skating Ground, <a href='#Page_141'>141</a>.</li>
+ <li class='c019'>Young, Samuel P., <a href='#Page_105'>105</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+</nav>
+</main>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c004'>
+</div>
+<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'>
+
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c001'>
+ <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+ <ul class='ul_1 c002'>
+ <li>Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ </li>
+ </ul>
+
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79273 ***</div>
+</body>
+<!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-08-04 14:27:00 GMT -->
+</html>
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+[Project Gutenberg](https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook [#79273](https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/79273)