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| author | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-06-21 07:18:17 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-06-21 07:18:17 -0700 |
| commit | 9112e1bb09299a669426195a417bd02915d6f31f (patch) | |
| tree | d04bf9773182ddc5b9203a7d853cba39418f617b /78905-h | |
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diff --git a/78905-h/78905-h.htm b/78905-h/78905-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac71302 --- /dev/null +++ b/78905-h/78905-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2884 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no,date=no,address=no,email=no,url=no"> + <title> + Model yachts and model yacht sailing | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .5em; +} + +.p2 {margin-top: 2em;} + + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + + +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} +@media print { hr.chap {display: none; visibility: hidden;} } + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + + + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.tdl {text-align: left;} +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.tdc {text-align: center;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; +} /* page numbers */ + + +blockquote { + margin-top: 0; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.bb {border-bottom: 2px solid grey;} +.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} +.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} +img.w100 {width: 100%;} + + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + +.x-ebookmaker .figleft {float: left;} + + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} + + +.sm {font-size: .8em;} +.xsm {font-size: .7em;} + +a {text-decoration: none} + +.vtop {vertical-align: top;} + +.hang2 {text-align: justify; padding-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;} + + +/*page number color */ +.pagenum { + color: gray; +} + +.glyph1 { + height: 1em; + width: auto; + vertical-align: middle; +} + +.glyph15 { + height: 1.5em; + width: auto; + vertical-align: middle; +} + +.glyph2 { + height: 2em; + width: auto; + vertical-align: middle; +} + + +.glyph4 { + height: 4em; + width: auto; + vertical-align: middle; +} + +/* border and column separators without cell borders*/ +table.autotable2 {border: 2px solid; border-collapse: collapse; font-size:80%} +table.autotable2 td {border-right: 2px solid; padding: 0.2em 0.5em 0.2em 0.5em;} +table.autotable2 th {border: 2px solid; padding: 0.2em 0.5em 0.2em 0.5em;} + +/* table with no borders*/ +table.autotable3 {border-collapse: collapse;} +table.autotable3 td, +table.autotable3 th {padding: 0.2em 0.5em 0.2em 0.5em} + + + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowe5 {width: 5em;} +.illowe40 {width: 40em;} +.illowp53 {width: 53%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp53 {width: 100%;} +.illowp52 {width: 52%;} +.x-ebookmaker .illowp52 {width: 100%;} +.illowe30 {width: 30em;} +.illowe25 {width: 25em;} +.illowe10 {width: 10em;} +.illowe20 {width: 20em;} + </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***</div> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a><a id="Page_4"></a><a id="Page_5"></a><a id="Page_6"></a><a id="Page_7"></a>7</span></p> + + +<h1> +MODEL YACHTS<br> +AND MODEL YACHT SAILING. +</h1> + +<p class="center"> + <i>HOW TO BUILD, RIG, AND SAIL<br> + A SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT.</i><br> + <br> + <span class="xsm">BY</span><br> + JAMES E. WALTON, V.M.Y.C.<br> + <br> + <br> + <span class="sm">ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.</span><br> + </p> + + <figure class="figcenter illowe5" id="p007"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" data-role="presentation"> +</figure> + +<p class="center"> + GRIFFITH AND FARRAN,<br> + <span class="xsm">SUCCESSORS TO NEWBERY AND HARRIS,</span><br> + <span class="sm">WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.<br> + E. P. DUTTON AND CO., NEW YORK.<br> + MDCCCLXXX.</span><br> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> <br> + <i><span class="xsm">The rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved.</span></i> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<figure class="figcenter illowe40" id="p006"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p006.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + + <span class="smcap">Lateral View of 3 ft. Yacht</span> (⅔ inch to the foot).<br> + + <span class="sm"><i>a a</i> mainsail. <i>b b</i> topsail. <i>c c</i> + foresail. <i>d d</i> jib. <i>a</i> mainmast. <i>b</i> + topmast. <i>c</i> bowsprit. <i>d</i> main boom. <i>e</i> + gaff. <i>f</i> foresail boom. <i>g</i> jib boom. <i>h</i> + bobstay. <i>i</i> mainrigging (port or left side). <i>j</i> + hull. <i>k</i> false keel. <i>l</i> lead keel. <i>m</i> + counter. <i>n</i> sternpost. <i>o</i> stem. <i>p</i> + self-acting rudder, only used when running.</span><br> + + <i>For deck outline and measurement of this Model “Diana” Cutter, see <a href="#p019">diagram 8, p. 19.</a></i> + </figcaption> +</figure> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"> + CONTENTS. + </h2> +</div> + + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Preface</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#PREFACE">11</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Introduction</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#INTRODUCTION">15</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +I. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">Principles of Self-Acting Model Yacht Building</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_I">21</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +II. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">How to Make the Hull</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_II">31</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +III. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, &c.</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_III">47</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +IV. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">How to Fit Masts, Standing and Running Gear, &c.</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">57</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +V. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">How to Make the Sails and Set them</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_V">73</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr vtop"> +VI. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="smcap">How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">85</a> +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Materials for Model Ships</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_MODEL_SHIPS">97</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Glossary</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#GLOSSARY">100</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Model Yacht Contests on the Sea</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">102</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Tables of Model Yacht Regattas</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT">103</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" colspan="2"> +<span class="smcap">Waters in London for Model Yacht Sailing</span> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +<a href="#BEST_WATERS_FOR_SAILING_MODEL_YACHTS">104</a> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a><a id="Page_11"></a>11</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE"> + PREFACE. + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>There are not many open-air amusements which afford +more genuine enjoyment to old and young than Model +Yacht Sailing; if practised in a properly scientific +manner it resembles a game of croquet, in which +the water is the lawn, the wind the mallet, and the +ships the balls; and the most skilful yachtsman is +as certain of winning his match as is the most skilful +croquet player.</p> + +<p>Very few English boys can be found who have not +taken, or do not take an interest in model ships, and +it is very remarkable, as well as no little disgrace to +us as a maritime nation, to note the utterly purposeless +way in which nearly all boys or men sail their +model vessels; whereas with the requisite knowledge, +a self-acting model yacht is as much under the control +of the manager as if he were actually on board: +further still, matches can be sailed in which the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>results are as certain as are those of the matches of +ordinary yachts, as may be seen in the tables of +actual races at the end of this work (see <a href="#TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT">p. 103</a>).</p> + +<p>A sailor who thoroughly understands the management +of a ship or boat, <i>when he is on board</i>, <i>steers +with a rudder</i>, and <i>reduces</i>, <i>augments</i>, or <i>disposes</i> the +sails at his will, would find this knowledge of very +secondary importance if he applied it, <i>without great +modifications</i>, to sail a model yacht. To give one +instance only, <i>model yachts require no fixed rudder</i>, +in fact, a fixed rudder is such an incumbrance, and so +great a bar to perfect action, that it must be dispensed +with altogether. This quite upsets the old adage of a +“ship without a rudder,” and reverses it; our model +ships need no rudder—steer better without, save in +one way.</p> + +<p>A rudder is used at times on model yachts, as will +be shown in its place, but it must be removed when +it has done its work.</p> + +<p>The sails and hulls of model yachts are also very different +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>to those of full-sized yachts. They are constructed +with the <i>view to being self-acting</i>, and as a model yacht +<i>must steer itself</i>, this result can only be obtained by +using the sails both for <i>propelling and steering</i>.</p> + +<p>Model yachts, as usually made, may be very beautiful +to look at, but, alas! they will not sail, or will not sail +well, they are not self-acting in any sense, they are +generally actual reproductions in miniature of celebrated +large yachts, and as these latter are sailed and +steered by men on board, it is very certain their +miniature copies will not sail without similar guidance.</p> + +<p>I have made these remarks to show that model self-acting +yachts cannot be made and sailed without the +requisite knowledge and experience, and as there is no +book to be got which gives full particulars on the +subject, it is believed that this, which contains +the result of many years’ model yacht making and +sailing, will supply an almost national want, and enable +any ordinarily intelligent boy to construct, rig, and sail +a model yacht with perfect success.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span></p> + +<p>As a proof of the pains that have been taken to +ascertain the best hull and rig for a self-acting yacht, +I may say that five yachts have been made, all of the +same length, but each of different beam, rig, &c., commencing +with very narrow beam, and increasing beam, +&c., with each model, till the best proportion between +length and beam became known,—necessarily with each +increase of beam <i>more sail could be carried</i>, and also +more <i>ballast in lead keel</i> could be used,—and in order +that the experiments should be crucial and decisive, a +final vessel was constructed of the same measurement as +the best of those before mentioned, and their sails were +made interchangeable, thus deciding beyond doubt +which vessel was best, after many trials on the open +sea with a true wind.</p> + +<p>It is doubtful if such experiments were ever made +before (tables of them will be seen at <a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">p. 102</a>), and the +author, therefore, feels assured that his readers may +have every confidence in the instruction here given.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION"> + INTRODUCTION. + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The first thing necessary for non-nautical yachtsmen +is to know the names of the different sails, parts of the +vessel, &c., &c., and for this purpose the diagram +forming the frontispiece will be useful; a glossary, +also, is added at the end of the work.</p> + +<p>The frontispiece is an exact outline drawing of a +model self-acting yacht, of 3-feet water-line, and 39 in. +over all; the diagram is drawn in the proportion of +⅔ in. to the foot, and if any reader desires to make a +smaller boat, say 30 in., all that need be done is to +make everything ⅙ smaller, and for a 2 ft. boat ⅓ +smaller; as the keel, however, would have to be calculated +by weight, and the above rule would not apply, +I give the weight in lbs.; a 3 ft. boat requires +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>20 lbs., a 2 ft. 6 in. boat 10 or 11 lbs., and a 24 in. +boat 6 lbs. or nearly.</p> + +<p>I will note here that it is better to make a vessel +scooped out, &c., from the solid block, than to build +one of small planks; 1st, it is easier (it takes a good +carpenter to make one of planks), it can be altered +outside if not scooped out too thin at first, it never +<i>leaks</i>, and it never comes to pieces; and, lastly, it does +not take half the time to repaint, &c., &c.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="p017" style="max-width: 75.0em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p017.jpg" alt="A diagram showing comparative sizes and shapes of various models"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a><a id="Page_19"></a>19</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp52" id="p019" style="max-width: 75.0em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p019.jpg" alt="A diagram showing comparative sizes and shapes of various models"> +</figure> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a><a id="Page_21"></a><a id="Page_22"></a><a id="Page_23"></a>23</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I"> + CHAPTER I. + <br> + <span class="sm">PRINCIPLES OF MODEL YACHT BUILDING.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>In order to ascertain the best lines, <i>i.e.</i> shape, for +progression through the water, Nature herself may, +without hesitation, be taken as the best teacher, and +amongst fast-moving fishes a mackerel is one of the +fastest and most graceful.</p> + +<p>I procured a mackerel, carefully measured and drew +it to scale (see <a href="#p017">p. 17</a>, diagrams 1 and 2), first taking the +shape back upwards, and next sideways, and in harmony +with these lines all the vessels mentioned in this work +are constructed.</p> + +<p>On looking at the diagram of the mackerel it is at +once apparent that a clean run is more important than a +sharp entrance, for the drawing shows the fish to be +much fuller in the fore than in the after part; bearing +this in mind, and having drawn the mackerel in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span>divisions of inches, I took the forward eleven divisions +as a model for the deck and general lines of my vessels—first, +so far as regards “<i>going through the water</i>;” +secondly, because I should thus get “<i>the widest part +or beam amidships</i>,” and as near the centre of motion +and gravity as possible.</p> + +<p>With these ideas in my mind I constructed “Seashell” +(see diagram 3, <a href="#p017">p. 17</a>), with the actual measurements +there stated (as is the case on all the drawings). +I rigged her as a schooner; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p024"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p024.jpg" alt="sketch of rigged schooner"> +</figure> + +<p>She sailed well and steadily, and could be made to go +in any direction in a light breeze, but her <i>narrow beam +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>and lightness</i>, with only 3 lbs. keel, rendered her useless +in a stiff breeze, except when she was running away +from it.</p> + +<p>I next built “Mermaid” (see diagram 4), with nearly +2 in. more beam, and exactly to the measurement of the +mackerel sideways, simply increasing each line in +proportion as the ship was larger than the fish; all +the lines of the hull being of course in harmony with +the increased beam, she had 5 lbs. lead keel, and +was rigged as a cutter (see “Diana” for cutter rig, +frontispiece), schooner, or lugger at pleasure. I found +she beat “Seashell” considerably in any wind, but +especially in strong winds, sailing under any of the +above-mentioned sails.</p> + +<p>Learning by this that increased beam and weight +meant more power, more sail, and greater speed, I then +made “Silver Spray” (see diagram 5), with 8 lbs. keel, +and nearly 2 in. more beam than “Mermaid,” and in +this vessel I reached about the proportional beam that +most model yacht builders have adopted, viz. 3½ beams +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>to the length. I rigged her as a cutter only, and +she easily beat “Mermaid” every way. I also discovered +that cutter rig was best, the boats under this +rig sailing faster and truer, and are more quickly +and expeditiously managed; at the same time I discarded +fixed rudders for reasons stated before.</p> + +<p>With this model, “Silver Spray,” I had reached a +point at which I stuck for some time; I could hardly +think still increased beam or depth would be an advantage, +yet I wished to progress, and try something +I would.</p> + +<p>I thought the matter over carefully, and at last +arrived at the following conclusions: A fish goes +<i>through the water only, but a ship goes through and +over</i>. Now a duck goes over the water; how would a +vessel built upon a combination of fish and duck +succeed?</p> + +<p>I got a duck, took a plaster cast of his under side, +noticed the way ducks got over the water, the resistance +of the water and the ripples and wake caused by the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>duck’s motion over the water, and I decided to make +a ship to go <i>over the water rather than through it</i>; +the top of the <i>water is alive</i>, and easily displaced in +any direction save downwards, the deeper one goes +the stiller it is, and the more difficult to displace. I +considered, therefore, if I built a vessel of greater beam, +very light draught of water, with a lead keel well +below the bottom, I should get greatly increased power +and speed, for I felt satisfied that the light draught and +larger sails more than compensated for a wider beam.</p> + +<p>It stands also to reason that a vessel of a wide +beam does <i>not heel over to leeward</i> so much as one +of a narrower beam, and it results from that—1st, the +sails being more perpendicular to the wind, have more +power to propel; and 2nd, the keel being also more +“up and down,” prevents her making so much leeway.</p> + +<p>No doubt there is a limit to breadth of beam, and +although I have not yet fully experimented, I am +inclined to think that the limit is reached in “Diana,” +of three beams to the length.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span></p> + +<p>On this I built “Golden Crest” (see diagram 6, +<a href="#p019">p. 19</a>), with these qualities, beam 10⅓ in., or ⅓ her +length exactly, and only a bare 4 in. depth, and 10 lbs. +lead keel; I fitted her with sails as a cutter, making +them larger than those of “Silver Spray,” in proportion +to her increased beam and ballast (in lead keel), and +she more than fulfilled my utmost expectations, for she +beat all the three former models out and out, both in +speed and steadiness.</p> + +<p>Still, however, I had not quite finished my experiments, +for I remarked that in strong winds “Golden +Crest,” on account of her low freeboard (<i>i.e.</i> little height +out of the water), was sometimes overpowered sooner +than I thought she ought to be, and I determined to +build another vessel on the same lines and of the same +size exactly, but with 1 in. deeper hold; this I did +in “Storm Along” (see diagram 7, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>), the only +difference between this and “Golden Crest” being the +1 in. extra depth of hold; lead keel, sails, masts, +&c., &c., all were exactly the same.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span></p> + +<p>Now, when Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug +of war. So it was here, and it was only after numberless +trials in all winds, and finally by actually +interchanging their sails, that “Storm Along” proved +the winner; the reason this was difficult to establish +was that at first I only sailed <i>each with its own +sails</i>; when the wind was moderate and sea smooth, +“Golden Crest” won a little; on the other hand, with +strong breezes and sea on, “Storm Along” won. I +interchanged their sails, and “Storm Along” won +considerably always. I then found out that I had +happened to lace the feet of the sails of “Storm +Along” to their booms, but it never struck me such a +trifle would interfere much with the sailing of a model: +I was mistaken, however, for I found whichever had the +laced sails was sure to lose, and “Golden Crest” lost +most; mind, all these experiments were conducted on +the open sea for hours, with true winds and true sea +(the most perfect test). I cut the sails loose, and at once +and ever after, “Storm Along” proved invariably the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>victor; in light winds by very, very little, but in strong +winds the greater buoyancy, and therefore lateral power, +of “Storm Along” always carried the day.</p> + +<p>With all these ships there are <i>no bulwarks</i>, no +ornaments, or projections of any kind, nothing but the +gear, &c., necessary to set the sails and work them; +everything else is not only useless, but mischievous +lumber.</p> + +<p>It may be remarked that the whole of those boats +when running before the wind, with self-acting lead +rudders, run at very nearly the <i>same speed</i>, length to a +great extent governing speed; but on turning to windward, +each falls into its place, as assigned to it in the +foregoing pages.</p> + +<p>I have not yet tried whether greater beam still +than ⅓ the length is an improvement; I am resting +on my oars awhile, and perhaps some one else may +undertake the experiment.</p> + +<p>Particulars of the races between “Golden Crest” and +“Storm Along” are noted on <a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">p. 102</a>.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a><a id="Page_32"></a><a id="Page_33"></a>33</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II"> + CHAPTER II. + <br> + <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE THE HULL.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Before entering upon the subject of this chapter, I will +enumerate the tools which will be needed: these are a +small axe, saw, plane, 1 in. gouge, ½ in. gouge, a rasp, a +bradawl, a screw-driver, a gimlet, a hammer, a pair of +small round-nosed pliers, a rat-tail file, a half-round file, +a small mallet, and last, though not least, a good pocket +knife.</p> + +<p>It is best and easiest, at any rate for beginners, to +cut out model ships from a solid block, because if not +scooped out too thin, alterations can be made on the +outside if desirable; if the block, in process of cutting +out, should split, rub it with a piece of flannel dipped in +linseed oil every time after working on it, the tools cut +just as easily, and all liability to split is obviated.</p> + +<p>To make a 3 ft. yacht (see lateral view, frontispiece; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>deck outline, diagram 8, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>; and sectional outlines, +<a href="#p037">p. 37</a>), get a block of deal, with as few knots and cracks +in it as possible, and well-seasoned; it must be 39 in. +long, 13 in. wide, and 8 in. deep; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p034_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p034_1.jpg" alt="a block of wood"> +</figure> + +<p>Divide it into two exact halves, as shown by the dotted +line—this centre line must <i>never be lost</i> or <i>rubbed +out till the hull is finished</i>; choose the best side for +the deck or upper side, divide it lengthways into +eleven compartments or divisions, and carefully set off +on each side the length of each line (as shown in +diagram 8, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>); thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p034_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p034_2.jpg" alt="a block of wood marked for shaping"> +</figure> + +<p>With the axe (mind all the tools are sharp) chop off +carefully both sides of the block till it is shaped thus—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p035_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p035_1.jpg" alt="the block after initial shaping"> +</figure> + +<p>With the gouge cut out the run and entrance in the +bottom of the piece of wood, beginning a little forward +of the middle for the run; and at same time cut away +so much of the bottom as will leave ½ in. for the keel, +by ⅝ wide. The next diagram shows one side, with +entrance and run cut out.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p035_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p035_2.jpg" alt="the block shaped for entrance and run"> +</figure> + +<p>Having cut out the other side to <i>correspond exactly</i>, +and rounded the sides and bottom with the plane and +rasp, taking care all the curved parts are in keeping +with the curves of the deck diagram <span class="allsmcap">C</span>, saw a slanting +piece off the cutwater, about ½ in. at bottom to +nothing at top, measure 36 in. from the middle of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>the cutwater towards the stern, and cut out the piece +of keel in the run, so as to leave the counter (projecting +of the stern); thus (the dotted lines show where and +how to cut)—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p036"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p036.jpg" alt="trimming stem and stern"> +</figure> + +<p>The counter must not project more than 3 in., and +therefore the ship will be 3 ft. keel, and 3 ft. 3 in. over +all. Now smooth and model the ship to your best +ability, see the keel <i>is quite straight</i>, and the <i>sternpost +perpendicular to the stempost or cutwater</i> (<i>a a</i> is the +sternpost in above diagram <span class="allsmcap">E</span>).</p> + +<p>If the vessel is now exactly equal on both sides, and +not lob-sided, as sailors call it, you can finish it with the +rasp, scrape it with glass, and polish it with sand paper, +making the outside look perfectly ship-shape.</p> + +<p>The sectional views here shown enable the model +ship builder to judge of the correctness of his work; they +represent the hull <i>when finished</i>, if cut athwart or across +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>into four pieces of equal length, and by holding the +vessel in the required position the builder can see if his +model present these or nearly these outlines exteriorly; +if so, it is right.</p> + +<p>It is not at all necessary to adhere exactly to this +outline of the midship section (although it governs the +outlines of the other two); it may be cut somewhat +flatter on the bottom, as indicated by the dotted lines, +and this would of course slightly vary the other sectional +outlines, but I do not think it should be made +more angular, nor do I advise it, as the vessel would +lose too much buoyancy.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p037"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p037.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SECTIONAL VIEWS. + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The next thing is to scoop it out with the gouge +and mallet. Leave the sides everywhere ⅜ or ½ in. thick, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>and be careful not to scoop thinner, or leave the sides +thicker in one part than another.</p> + +<p>The gouge is the principal tool for this work, but a +centrebit, to bore holes all over the inside, is a great +assistance, it saves half the hammering; however, when +scooped out and the inside smoothed, your vessel should +look thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p038_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p038_1.jpg" alt="the hull scooped out"> +</figure> + +<p>Next make the <i>sheer</i> by planing out the gunwale +(gunwale <i>a a</i>), beginning at nothing forward at the +stem, gradually increasing to ½ in. amidships, and again +decreasing to nothing at the stern. The diagram <span class="allsmcap">G</span> below +shows clearly what is meant by the sheer, and how to +fashion it: the dotted line is the sheer—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p038_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p038_2.jpg" alt="shaping the sheer"> +</figure> + +<p>and a vessel looks very stiff and ungraceful without it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span></p> + +<p>Now give the inside a coat of white paint, and then +the deck can be put on. The deck must be made of +one piece of deal plank, without splits or knots, ¼ in. +thick at the sides, and ⅜ in. in the middle; this gives the +deck a slightly rounded appearance, and, besides, greatly +strengthens it. Mark the shape of the gunwale on the +plank by turning the ship bottom upwards upon it, and +marking it round with a pencil; draw a middle line +from end to end, and cut it to the required shape as +near as possible.</p> + +<p>A beam must now be put across the middle of the +ship, exactly level with the gunwale on both sides, +to support the deck and strengthen the sides of the +ship; the beam should be ½ in. square; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p039"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p039.jpg" alt="fitting a beam to support the deck"> +</figure> + +<p>Screw the sides of the ship to the ends of the beam; +then put on the deck, and screw it to the gunwale all +round with ½ in. brass (everything must be brass except +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>the lead keel) screws at about equal distances of 3 in., +and two or three screws through the deck into the +beam; if this is done in a workmanlike way, and the +edge of the deck planed off and smoothed level with +the side of the ship, the hull ought to be perfect, and +practically water-tight. Mind in putting in the beam to +leave place for the hatchway or step of the mast.</p> + +<p>The next operation is to put on the keels—false and +leaden. The false keel is simply a strip of beech, oak, or +mahogany, of the same length as the keel of the ship, +⅝ in. thick, ½ in. deep at one end, and 1 in. at the +other; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p040"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p040.jpg" alt="a false keel"> +</figure> + +<p>This must be screwed into the keel of the ship with +brass screws of proper length, <i>i.e.</i> not to go through +the bottom of the ship, about 6 in. apart. This false +keel, and the position it occupies, can be easily seen in +the drawing of “Diana,” and is marked <span class="allsmcap">K</span>; the leaden +keel is underneath as there shown, and I will now +describe the best way to make it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span></p> + +<p>20 lbs. of lead will be required for a 3 ft. yacht, as +before stated, and the lead can be melted in any old +pot, on any ordinary clear kitchen fire. First make an +oblong narrow box or mould of any smooth ½ in. boards—<i>dry</i>, +or the lead will splutter and be full of air-holes—3 +ft. long inside, ⅝ in. inside width, 2 in. deep at +one end, and 3 in. at the other; this will hold about +20 lbs. of lead, and here follows a drawing of the +mould.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p041"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p041.jpg" alt="mould for lead keel"> +</figure> + +<p>Into the bottom of this mould, and sticking upright, as +shown in the drawing, must be placed at equal distances +six or eight pegs, beginning about 1 in. from the extreme +ends of the mould; these pegs must be rather thicker +than the screws intended to screw the leaden to the false +keel, and will, as no doubt the intelligent reader already +perceives, leave holes in the cast leaden keel for the +screws to go through, these screws may be long enough +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>to go through the false keel into the ship’s bottom, and +the work will be all the stronger and better. Having +melted the lead, pour it at once into the mould, and +the keel is made; when cool take it out of the mould, +trim it, smooth the sides and top and bottom with the +plane, and let the shape be something thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p042"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p042.jpg" alt="final shape of lead keel"> +</figure> + +<p>Screw it on to and through the false keel (if you cannot +make holes through the false keel to receive the screws +without danger of splitting it, bore them in their proper +places with the bradawl, and then burn them out with a +red-hot skewer); the thickest end of the keel must be +aft or behind, and when screwing it on mind and bore +out the top of the holes in the lead, so that the heads +of the screws may be quite level with the lead (this +operation is called countersinking the screws); the +heaviest end of the lead is put aft so as to make the +ship well up at the stem and deep at the stern; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>the reason for this will be given in the chapter on +“sailing a model yacht.”</p> + +<p>It may, however, be well to add here that the false +keel, by holding the leaden keel at a greater distance +from the bottom of the ship, greatly increases the <i>leverage +of the leaden keel without increasing the weight</i>, and +gives great hold upon the water, however little water the +hull may draw, so that more sail can be carried, and the +ship steer better with this arrangement than without it.</p> + +<p>Now try how she floats, and if she floats about 3 in. +deeper aft than forward, that will do.</p> + +<p>Next get a strip of sheet brass about 5 ft. long, ½ in. +wide, and ⅛ in. thick; most likely you will have to get +this soldered in two or three pieces; it is to make a +band to cover the leaden keel at the bottom, ends, and +also the stem and sternpost, to keep them from being +injured by stones, &c., on striking the shore, &c.; +holes must be punched in it at every 3 in. where it +covers the lead, and at every inch where it covers the +wood of the stem and sternpost.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p044_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p044_1.jpg" alt="a brass strip protecting the keel"> +</figure> + +<p>The above drawing shows what is meant, and the place +it occupies (I have distorted the drawing to show it +better); it must be screwed with brass ½ in. screws, +countersunk, to the lead keel, &c., as above stated; the +cutwater part of it must be filed away to ¼ in. wide, +the rest may be left ½ in. wide. This has always been +to me the most difficult operation, and it must be well +done and put on perfectly straight at bottom and both +ends.</p> + +<p>When screwing it on leave one hole without screw +in the stem for the bobstay, and two in the sternpost +for the self-acting rudder, as shown in this drawing.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p044_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p044_2.jpg" alt="where to leave holes for bobstay and rudder fittings"> +</figure> + +<p>The one in the stem must be about 5 in. from top, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span>the two in the sternpost about 5 in. apart—the black +dots show the places.</p> + +<p>The hull is now finished; next scratch the deck with +straight lines ½ in. apart from stem to stern to imitate +planks, leaving ½ in. margin all round to look like a +gunwale, and with the following remarks I will close +this chapter.</p> + +<p>It must be understood that it is almost impossible +to mention every operation; many things, and the +way to do them, must be left to the ingenuity and skill +of the builder; it is sufficient that if my directions have +been reasonably carried out, the result, so far, will be a +good seaworthy model yacht’s hull.</p> + +<p>I have given in this chapter and elsewhere the dimensions +for a 3 ft. boat, because it is easier to work downwards +from a large size than upwards from a small one. +There is less chance of mistake, for an error in a 2 ft. +boat would be multiplied by working upwards, while the +same error would be decreased in working downwards.</p> + +<p>A 3 ft. boat is somewhat large and heavy; 2 ft. and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>2 ft. 6 in. are the best sizes. Indeed, unless a large +boat is specially required, beginners should not attempt +anything larger than a 2 ft. boat, and even a boat 1 ft. +6 in. is a very good size for boys, and will sail, &c., as +well as a 3 ft. boat, though of course not so fast.</p> + +<p>I append tables of measurement for the blocks of +wood and weight of keels for all these sizes:—</p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +For boat +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +block (inches) +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +keel (lbs) +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +3 ft. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +39 × 13 × 8 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +20 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2 ft. 6 in. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +32½ × 10⅚ × 6⅔ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +10 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2 ft. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +26 × 8⅔ × 5⅓ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> + 7 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +1 ft. 6 in. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +19½ × 6½ × 4 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> + 3 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<p>It would not matter if in the large sizes the keel were +a pound or so heavier, and in the small a half-pound or +so; but on no account must they be lighter in any case. +I also add the weight of the leaden rudders necessary +to make the vessels run before the wind.</p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +3 ft. boat +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1¼ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +lbs. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2 ft. 6 in. boat +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +¾ +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2 ft. boat +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +½ +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +1 ft. 6 in. boat +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +¼ +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p>For the masts, sails, and tackle of smaller boats, the +calculation of size may be easily made.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a><a id="Page_48"></a><a id="Page_49"></a>49</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III"> + CHAPTER III. + <br> + <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, ETC.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>I purpose in this chapter to show how to make and +fit all that is required on the deck to secure and work +the rigging and sails. The following is a diagram of the +deck of the ship, with each object in its proper place, +and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each, +with description:—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p049"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p049.jpg" alt="diagram of deck"> +</figure> + +<p>The first object, <i>a</i>, is a 1½ in. or 2 in. screw-eye, with +large eye for the bowsprit to go through; this must be +carefully screwed into the thick wood at the stem +through the deck; <i>b</i> is the chock for the heel or inner +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>end of the bowsprit to fit in; <i>c</i> is the horse for the +foresheet to work on; <i>d</i> is the hole or step for the +mainmast; <i>e</i> is the hatchway or opening in the deck, +just large enough to admit the hand easily; <i>f</i> is the +horse for the mainsheet to travel on; <i>g g</i> and <i>h h</i> are 1 in. +eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and main-backstays +to be hooked to; these must be firm and strong. +Here is a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p050"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p050.jpg" alt="diagram of masts, spars and rigging"> + <figcaption class="sm"> + <i>a</i> mainmast. <i>b</i> topmast. <i>c</i> gaff. <i>d</i> mainboom. + <i>e</i> starboard or right backstay. <i>f</i> larboard or left + backstay. <i>g</i> bowsprit. <i>h</i> starboard bowsprit guy. <i>i</i> + larboard bowsprit guy. <i>j</i> bobstay. <i>k</i> India-rubber ring to + keep boom down. + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, <i>a</i>, requires no +explanation: it must be just large enough in the eye for +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>the bowsprit to go through; if not large enough, file it +to the necessary size with the rat-tail file.</p> + +<p>The chock <i>b</i> (<a href="#p049">p. 49</a>) must be made out of a piece of +oak or mahogany about 3 in. long, and about 1 in. +thick; a hole ½ in. deep, and of the diameter of the end +or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it; thus—<img class="glyph15" +src="images/p051_1.jpg" alt="the chock">; +the other end may be tapered off to taste, +and screwed strongly right through into the deck +exactly amidships. It should be of such a height that +when the bowsprit is in its place it shall be perfectly in +a line with the mid-deck line, and also with the stem +and stern (as shown in the diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>). The chock +may be placed any distance from the stem, so long as it +is not too close to the horse for foresheet (diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>).</p> + +<p>The horse for foresheet is made as follows: Cut two +diamond or other shaped pieces of sheet brass, ⅛ in. +thick, and about 1½ in. in length; thus—<img class="glyph15" +src="images/p051_2.jpg" alt="a plate for the horse">; make +a small hole at each corner, and a larger hole in the centre; +then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and bend it at +the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>plates; thus—<img class="glyph2" +src="images/p052_1.jpg" alt="the horse">, and solder or +get soldered, the wire to the plates underneath; bore +holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or so forward of the +mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck +line; fit in the two ends, <i>a a</i>, and screw the plates +firmly to the deck: if it is desired to be very neat, all +the small holes should be countersunk.</p> + +<p>Another horse must be made exactly the same way, +but 1 in. wider and somewhat stronger, for the mainsheet +(diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>, <i>f</i>), and put as near the edge of +the stern as due regard for strength will permit.</p> + +<p>The step or socket for the mainmast comes next. +Get a short piece of brass tube ⅝ in. internal diameter, +and about 7½ in. long; have a screw soldered into one +end; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p052_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p052_2.jpg" alt="brass tube for mainmast socket"> +</figure> + +<p>Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of +exactly the same diameter as the outside of the pipe +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>or socket 13 in. from the stem, <i>i.e.</i> ⅓ the length of the +deck; put the brass tube in the hole, and screw it tightly +to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line drawn +from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that +the mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright +from all sides; file the top of the socket off if too high, +so as to leave not more than ¼ in. above the deck.</p> + +<p>To make the hatchway or hole (<i>e</i> in diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>), +cut out an oval or oblong hole in the centre of the deck, +just abaft or behind the beam (diagram <span class="allsmcap">H</span>, <a href="#p039">p. 39</a>); a +water-tight cover or stopper must be made for this with +cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters +not provided it is not much above the level of the deck, +is water-tight, and can be taken in or out.</p> + +<p>Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the +starboard quarter (see <i>i</i> in diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>), make a +short peg to fit it, and call it the <i>pump</i>; by inclining +the ship towards this hole after sailing, and drawing +the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the +water out if necessary.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span></p> + +<p>The screw-eyes <i>g g</i> and <i>h h</i>, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>, explain themselves +by referring to <i>e</i>, <i>f</i>, <i>h</i>, and <i>i</i>, in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>; they +are to hook on the rigging as there shown. These +eye-bolts, <i>h h</i>, must be as close abaft the mainmast as is +consistent with their properly supporting the mainmast, +both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if +placed too far aft they would interfere with the mainboom +swinging far enough out when running before the +wind; the nearer the mainboom is to a right angle with +the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before +the wind. <i>g g</i> may be in a line with the horse for the +foresheet <i>c</i> (diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>); care must be taken to +screw them through the edge of the deck, and into the +gunwale firmly.</p> + +<p>To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or +box similar to that for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in. +deep, and ½ in. wide.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p054"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p054.jpg" alt="mould for casting rudder"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p> + +<p>Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through +the bottom, and about an inch into the box (as in dotted +line), bend them so as to make them stick in the +lead, and just as far apart as are the two screw-eyes for +this rudder in diagram “stern,” <a href="#p044_2">p. 44</a>; pour in 1¼ lbs. +of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the +wires thus—;</p> +<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p055"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p055.jpg" alt="finished rudder"> +</figure> +<p>and when hooked into +the screw-eyes or gudgeons, it should act easily either +to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young model yacht +sailors can vary the shape of the rudder; I have given +the simplest and easiest shape to make.</p> + +<p>This completes all the deck fittings necessary for +working and sailing the ship, but if on trial the rudder +should be too heavy or too light, another must be made—experience +is the best guide.</p> + +<p>I need hardly say that every direction I have given +need not be followed to the letter; those who see and +know what is required can do many things in their own +way, and much must necessarily be left to individual +taste, skill, and ingenuity.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span></p> + +<p>At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish, +and paint the hull whatever colour or colours fancy +dictates; I, however, advise one colour only for the +hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or repair, +eventualities often recurring with model yachts.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a><a id="Page_58"></a><a id="Page_59"></a>59</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV"> + CHAPTER IV. + <br> + <span class="sm">HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING GEAR, ETC.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The best material for making masts and spars is +bamboo canes, these require little trimming, can be +procured of any thickness and length, and are stronger, +lighter, and more elastic than any other kind of wood.</p> + +<p>The mainmast must be 38 in. long from the deck, +and ⅝ in. diameter at the foot, to fit the socket or step +(diagram, <a href="#p052_2">p. 52</a>), slightly tapering to the head or top; +the head must be fitted with a brass ferrule or socket +for the topmast (like a fishing-rod), and must be <i>included</i> +in the above 38 in. length, but as the mast has to fit in +the step, the depth of the step must be added to it.</p> + +<p>If the yacht builder cannot solder or get soldered +eyes on the socket at the mast-head, he must lash them +on for the foresail, jib, and main- and peak-halyards, +and also for the main-backstays; thus—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p060"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p060.jpg" alt=""> + <p class="sm"> + <i>a</i> socket for topmast.<br> + <i>b</i> ring for peak-halyards.<br> + <i>c</i> ring for throat-halyards.<br> + <i>d</i> ring for jib-halyards.<br> + <i>e</i> ring for foresail-halyards.<br> + <i>f</i> ring for starboard-backstay.<br> + <i>g</i> ring for larboard-backstay.<br> + <i>h</i> gaff.</p> + +</figure> + +<p>Rings <i>d</i> and <i>e</i> must be lashed forward, <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> aft, +<i>f</i> and <i>g</i> one on each side, <i>e</i> and <i>c</i> about an inch below +<i>f</i> and <i>b</i>; this is all necessary for the mainmast.</p> + +<p>The bowsprit must be 34½ in. long outside the stem +and a trifle thicker than the mainmast; be careful to +allow the extra length from the stem to the chock +(<a href="#Page_51">p. 51</a>); it must have rings (these rings can be got at +any fishing shop, of all sizes—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p060_2.jpg" alt="rings of different sizes">, any size +will do, so that the lines used pass easily through) +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>for the guys and bobstay lashed on, and hooks for +the jib and foresail; tip the end with a band thus, to +prevent damage to it by collisions—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p061_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p061_1.jpg" alt=""> + <p class="sm"> + <i>a a</i> rings on each side, close to the end, for the guys.<br> + <i>b</i> ring for bobstay underneath.<br> + <i>c</i> hook for jib tack. (to be on top.)<br> + <i>d</i> hook for foresail tack. (to be on top.) + </p> +</figure> + +<p>The hooks, <i>c</i> and <i>d</i>, for the tacks cannot be lashed +on till the sails are made and fitted, for as the jib must +always swing clear of the foresail, and the foresail clear +of the mainmast, it is best to try them before lashing on +these hooks.</p> + +<p>These hooks are made of stout brass wire about +1½ in. long, flattened where to be lashed, and the end +turned up with the pliers; thus—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p061_2.jpg" alt="a hook for the tack">; the +hook ¼ in. high is plenty, so that the sails may be as +low down as possible.</p> + +<p>Next, with the pliers make a dozen hooks or so, this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>shape and size—<img class="glyph1" src="images/p062_1.jpg" alt="a different hook">, of strong wire; and two of +still stouter wire, this shape and size, say 1 in.—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p062_1.jpg" alt="a larger hook">; +the former are for the various standing +and running gear, and the two latter for the foresail +sheet and mainsheet. Make also a dozen or so of +wood or bone slides to pattern—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p062_3.jpg" alt="a slide">; one +hook and one slide at least is required for every rope that +has to be lengthened or shortened. Ladies’ bone meshes +of suitable width and thickness make the best slides.</p> + +<p>The following diagram shows the application and use +of these in all instances; say you are fitting the larboard +mainbackstay (<i>f</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), make fast +your line to the ring (<i>g</i>, diagram, <a href="#p060">p. 60</a>) at the mainmast +head, pass the line through two holes of the slide, then +through a hook which must be hooked on to the screw-eye +(<i>f</i>, diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), back through the other hole in +the slide, and make it fast there by a knot, only see the +line is not too long or too short for convenient working. +By this means, as you will soon see, any rope can be +fitted that requires it, and can be lengthened or shortened +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>in a moment without danger of slipping; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p063_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p063_1.jpg" alt="a slide in operation"> +</figure> + +<p>The best line for all the gear is suitable sizes of fishing-line. +If the line kinks, <i>i.e.</i> gets into twists, put a yard +or so at a time through the loop of the key in a door, +cross it over itself once or twice, and rub it backwards +and forwards, that takes all the turn out.</p> + +<p>The brass wire required may be these sizes—</p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_a.jpg" alt="brass wire"> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +for small hooks. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_b.jpg" alt="brass wire"> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +larger hooks, &c., &c. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_c.jpg" alt="brass wire"> + +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +foresheet horse. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_d.jpg" alt="brass wire"> + +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +mainsheet horse. +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p>Now comes the mainboom (<i>d</i>, diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>); it +must be 36 in. long, a little thinner than the mainmast, +and must be fitted thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p063_3"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p063_3.jpg" alt="fitting up the mainboom"> +</figure> + +<p>Put a brass band, <i>a</i>, ½ in. wide, round the thicker end, +drive a peg strongly into the hollow of the bamboo (the +band is to stop it splitting), and screw in a screw-eye, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>as shown at <i>b</i> above; then lash one ring on at <i>c</i>, say +15 in. from <i>a</i>, and another at <i>d</i>, both on the under side of +the boom, this last crossways. These two rings are for +the mainsheet <i>f</i>, and are most important; they must be +well put on, the latter, <i>d</i>, about 12 in. from the outer +end of the boom, so as to work well when the hook <i>e</i> is +hooked on to the horse for this sheet (viz. mainsheet) +at the stern; this hook, <i>e</i>, is to be one of the large +hooks (as shown <a href="#Page_62">p. 62</a>).</p> + +<p>In order that the mainsheet should not have to be +made too long, and thereby get foul of the stern, &c., +when the boom swings over in running or reaching, +it is best to have another sheet called the “running +sheet,” to be fitted as follows:—</p> + +<p>Screw a screw-eye (a strong one) into the middle of +the deck, just abaft the hatchway, lash a ring to the +underside of the mainboom exactly over the screw-eye +when the mainboom is amidships, fasten a strong +piece of line to the screw-eye, put on a slide, then pass +it through a hook, and fasten off to the slide, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span>hook into the ring on the mainboom; and let this +sheet be just so long, that when the mainboom is out +as far as it can go for the backstays, it will just take +the strain off the backstays, on whichever side it +happens to be, in running before the wind.</p> + +<p>By means of this running sheet, when the after +mainsheet is unhooked, the mainboom can be kept in +or let out to any required angle without the sheet +fouling, and as the running sheet is fast to the ship +only, it can be easily unhooked from the mainboom +when unrigging. Still, this running sheet is not +absolutely necessary, but is a very great convenience.</p> + +<p>To attach the mainboom to the mast, and allow it to +move freely, get a strip of sheet brass ⅜ in. wide, +just long enough to go <i>round the mast</i> (close to the +deck), and ⅜ in. over at each end; bore a hole at each +end thus—<img class="glyph1" src="images/p065_1.jpg" alt="brass strip for mainboom attachment">, and bend it round +the mast. With the pincers nip the two ends +close together, and so that the two holes are +in a line thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter" id="p065_2"> + <img class="glyph4" src="images/p065_2.jpg" alt="brass strip bent around the mast"> +</figure> +<p>Now +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>put the screw-eye at the end of the mainboom +between these two holes, fasten it there with a bit of +wire turned round at each end; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p066_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p066_1.jpg" alt="the mainboom to mast attachment"> +</figure> + +<p>No arrangement can be more perfect or stronger than +this.</p> + +<p>The above operation has to be repeated for the <i>jaws</i> +or inner end of the gaff (<i>c</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), but the +ring must fit the head of the mast instead of the foot.</p> + +<p>The gaff must be 21½ in. long, and a little thinner +than the mainboom; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p066_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p066_2.jpg" alt="the gaff"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p> + +<p>Lash one large ring at <i>a</i>, as close to the end as possible, +two others, smaller, further out at <i>b</i> and <i>c</i>, and one at +<i>d</i>; all these rings must be on the top side of the gaff, +<i>d</i> an inch from the outer end of the gaff, for the sheet of +the topsail to be hooked on (see frontispiece).</p> + +<p>The topmast is a taper bamboo, the lower end of +which must fit tightly into the socket at the mainmast +head, it must be 24 in. long outside the socket; lash +two small rings at opposite sides, ½ in. from the head, +put a knob on the top (called the truck), and the topmast +is ready.</p> + +<p>The boom for the foresail (<i>i.e.</i> the spar that extends +the foot of the sail) must be 20 in. long, that for the jib +25½ in. long, and both about the thickness of the gaff; +here, however, use your judgment. Lash rings on for +the sheets of each; each must have a sliding sheet +(see drawing at end of this chapter) the same as for the +mainsheet (<a href="#p063_1">p. 63</a>); the jib sheet, however, requires no +hook at the end, but must be made fast to the bowsprit, +or, if greater precision is required, a horse may be made +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>for the jib as for the other sails, and fastened in its +proper place across the bowsprit, and to the guys as +below;</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p068_1"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p068_1.jpg" alt="horse fitted to bowsprit"> +</figure> + +<p>it may be made of thin brass wire, as follows, +merely taking care that it is the right length, and that +the horse is an inch or so less than the foresheet horse. +It is made of four pieces of wire, the horse bent, as in +diagram below, and the other pieces soldered to it;</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p068_2"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p068_2.jpg" alt="design of bowsprit horse"> +</figure> + +<p>the guys may be passed through the loops a on their respective +sides, and knots made to keep them in place; it +will be perfectly self-acting, and never get out of place; +the weather guy being always tight will always keep it +nearly horizontal; it makes the jib, like the other sails, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>a good <i>driving</i> as well as steering sail. Besides the +above rings, another must be lashed on the outer end +(all the rings on the boom are underneath) of each +boom, <i>a</i> and <i>b</i>, about 2½ in. from the end; thus—</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p069"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p069.jpg" alt="boom ring placement"> +</figure> + +<p>and must both be crosswise, as they are to secure these +booms to their respective hooks (see <i>c</i> and <i>d</i> on bowsprit, +<a href="#p061_1">p. 61</a>; and also diagram, <a href="#p070">p. 70</a>). This manner +of fixing these sails is the best to keep them tight and +flat when in use.</p> + +<p>This diagram shows the best mode of fixing the tacks +of jib and foresail to the bowsprit; by this means, when +the sail fills with the wind, it raises the after end of the +boom, <i>depresses the fore end</i>, and thus tightens the luff +of the sail and keeps it taut, which is very necessary. +This diagram also shows how the jib and foresail swing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>clear of each other; also that the jib must not quite go +to the end of the bowsprit, or it may be knocked off.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p070"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p070.jpg" alt="location of jib and foresail tacks on the bowsprit"> +</figure> + +<p>When all the rings are carefully and neatly lashed +on, say with strong white thread,—lashing is the +best, because it does not weaken the spars by making +it necessary to bore holes in them,—varnish all the +lashings with copal varnish, it will preserve them and +prevent them slipping.</p> + +<p>Each maker must use a little judgment, and <i>understand +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>what he is going to do before he does it</i>, and as in +some instances the spars, or what not, may be a little +too long, the best plan is for the maker to try each +and everything before spoiling his work.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p071"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p071.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + <i>Enlarged Diagram of how to fix the sliding sheets for the respective booms, + i.e. jib, fore, and main.</i> + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a><a id="Page_73"></a><a id="Page_74"></a><a id="Page_75"></a>75</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V"> + CHAPTER V. + <br> + <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The speed and precision in the sailing of a model yacht, +depend much more upon the sails than the hull, and +the greatest care must be taken in making them.</p> + +<p>If pains are taken to carry out the following +directions, an excellent suit of self-acting sails will +be the result.</p> + +<p>The best material is either bleached or unbleached +calico, 1 yd. wide, at 8<i>d.</i> per yd., and for a 2 ft. yacht +10<i>d.</i> per yd.; 3 yds. are sufficient for a 3 ft. boat. Steep +the calico in clean water, and dry it across a line +before using it. It is always better to cut the patterns +of the sails out in paper, and try them in their places, +before cutting the stuff.</p> + +<p>On the next page are given diagrams of the four +sails for a cutter, and as all are cut on the cross, care +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span>must be taken when hemming them not to pucker or +stretch the material; the after leach, <i>i.e.</i> the behind +edge of all the sails, must be the selvedge, and must +not be hemmed. In cutting out, allowance must be +made for the hems, the measurements given being the +actual sizes required.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p076"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p076.jpg" alt="patterns for sails"> +</figure> + +<p>The bottoms of the sails must be slightly rounded, as +shown above, and a narrow tape must be sewn across, as +shown by the dotted lines, to keep the sails from stretching.</p> + +<p>All the sewing for these sails can be done perfectly +and expeditiously with any lock-stitch machine; it +will sew them exactly even without puckering, and all +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span>that has to be done by hand is to fasten off the corners. +I make all my own sails, and can, without hurry, +make a full large suit for a 3 ft. boat in an evening.</p> + +<p>The selvedges are not to be hemmed, because the +after leaches of all the sails should allow the wind to +pass freely off. The sizes of the sails are marked on +the diagrams distinctly; allow ½ in. extra on the outer +leach of the mainsail, from <i>c</i> to <i>d</i> in diagram below, so +that it may be slightly loose; this helps to steer +materially, as the leach will shake before the body of +the sail, if the vessel comes too much up in the wind, +and so losing its power allow the ship to fall off and +sail steadily.</p> + +<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p077"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p077.jpg" alt="cutting head of mainsail"> +</figure> + +<p>This diagram shows +how to cut the head of the mainsail; +the dotted line shows how the sail +would be if cut straight, therefore +cut straight from <i>a</i> to <i>b</i>, then slant +off to <i>d</i> at rather more than midway from <i>a</i> to <i>c</i>. +Make eight or ten eyelet holes at equal distances in +the hoist of the mainsail, and fix a ring or grummet +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>of twine in each hole to fit loosely round the mainmast; +these are better than brass rings or wooden hoops, +and weigh nothing.</p> + +<p>The lower outer corner of the mainsail should be +double for 2 or 3 in. (see diagram, <a href="#p076">p. 76</a>), to strengthen +it; in fact, the corners of all the sails are none the +worse for being so doubled.</p> + +<p>Now fix the sail to the mainboom and gaff; with a +needle and strong thread is best: do not pull the +sail too tight. The boom will then be 2 in. or so too +long; do not cut that off, it is useful to turn the ship +with; leave also the extra length of the gaff, it looks +better. The head of the sail must be laced or tied +to the gaff at intervals of 1 in., but on no account +lace the foot of the sails to the booms; (for reason +why see <a href="#Page_29">p. 29</a>) the sail is then ready.</p> + +<p>In setting, <i>i.e.</i> putting on, the mainsail, when you +have passed the foot of the mainmast through the +jaws of the gaff and all the grummets, then before +passing it through the jaws of the mainboom, put on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>an India-rubber ring, and then the mainboom; the +ring must be pretty tight to the mast, and is very +useful to keep the mainboom from slipping up. For +position of this ring, see <i>k</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>.</p> + +<p>To hold the mainsail up, the inner ring on the gaff +and lower after-ring on the mainmast head, must have +stout twine passed through and made fast. This is +called the throat-halyards.</p> + +<p>The gaff must be kept at its proper angle by means +of twine made fast to the next ring on the gaff, passed +through a hook, which hook into the upper after-ring +at the mainmast head, and fasten off at the third ring +on the gaff. This is called the peak-halyards. With +these two, peak- and throat-halyards, you can easily fix +the mainsail, so that when the mainboom <i>is half an +inch above the deck at the mast</i>, and about an inch or +so clear of the mainsheet horse at the stern, the sail +shall set perfectly flat.</p> + +<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p080"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p080.jpg" alt="arrangement of topmast stay"> +</figure> + +<p>The annexed arrangement of the topmast stay is +excellent; it keeps tight the luff of the jib, slightly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>slacks up the after leach, and is no trouble whatever +to fix or unfix. It simply consists of putting a large +ring (so that the hook can pass +through) at the top point of the +jib, pass the topmast stay-hook +through, and hook it into a ring +sewn on to the luff any distance +down you think sufficient, as in +diagram at side, <i>a</i> topmast, <i>b</i> +topmast stay, <i>c</i> mainsail, <i>d</i> jib.</p> + +<p>The jib must have a piece of tape stitched from <i>a</i> to +<i>b</i> on the double, ½ in. each side (see <a href="#Page_76">p. 76</a>), and a ring +sewn on at <i>b</i>. A hem only in the luff would be +useless on account of the strain. The same must be +done to the foresail; hem the bottoms, and leave the +selvedges as they are.</p> + +<p>Lash them to their respective yards or booms (see +diagram, pp. <a href="#p069">69</a> and <a href="#p070">70</a>). Of course the sail must be +on the top of the boom, and the rings and sheets +underneath; try them in their places; now lash +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>on the hooks to the bowsprit (see <a href="#p061_1">p. 61</a>), and you will +see exactly where to put them; mind, the jib must +swing just clear of both bowsprit and foresail (see +frontispiece), and the foresail just clear of the mast +and stem. Fit both these sails at the head with a +hook and slide, the end of the line to be fast to the +head of the sail, and the hook is to hook into the rings +(respectively) at the mainmast head (see frontispiece), +which shows exactly how all the sails set. The booms +for these sails (jib and foresail) must be cut close, as +there is no room to spare.</p> + +<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p082"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p082.jpg" alt="the topsail"> +</figure> + +<p>The topsail is 28 in. high, and reaches from the +large ring in the jaws of the gaff (<i>a</i>, <a href="#p066_2">p. 66</a>) to the +topmast head, and before cutting it out the mainsail +must be tried and set. The shape of this sail depends +on the peak or angle of the gaff; and having made a +pattern in paper to fit thus, make eyelet holes equidistant +from <i>b</i> to head of the mainmast, and put in rings +of twine to fit the topmast loosely, as was done before +with mainsail; fasten a hook to each of the corners, <i>a</i>, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span><i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, to hook into the respective rings already placed +for them;—if the hooks are too short, +use a piece of twine sewn to the sail, at +<i>b</i> and <i>c</i> only, to lengthen them;—now +sew a button at the edge of the +curved bottom of the sail at <i>d</i>, and a +loop to button on it on the head of +the mainsail at <i>e</i>; this keeps the +rounded foot always flat.</p> + +<p>The masts, sails, and gear being now all complete, +try them on, and make any little alterations that may +be necessary. If my directions have been intelligently +followed, the sails will be exactly the sizes and shape +of those in the lateral diagram, frontispiece.</p> + +<p>A strong, fine piece of line, fitted with a slide and hook, +in the usual way, the end made fast to the topmast +head ring forward, and the hook to be hooked into +the ring at the jib head or top corner (see the diagram +<a href="#Page_80">p. 80</a>, and also <a href="#p006">frontispiece</a>). This is to raise the foot +of the jib, if required, and also to steady the topmast; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>this is a simple though not so effectual a topmast stay as +that given, <a href="#Page_80">p. 80</a>.</p> + +<p>The sails must be as tight and flat as possible when +set, and the mast must be kept exactly upright by the +backstays aft, and by the jib and foresail forward, the +tape on the jib and foresail taking the place of stays +or ropes used for that purpose in ordinary yachts, +which are by this means dispensed with in models.</p> + +<p>Sail and mast-making is not yet done. Another +suit of masts, spars, and sails, of exactly two-thirds the +length, breadth, and height of these, must be made. +It is called the <i>storm suit</i>, and is used when the wind +is too strong for the first suit. Reefing is not practicable +in a cutter.</p> + +<p>Some model yachtsmen have three or four suits of +sails, &c.; I find two sufficient, because I don’t sail a +yacht when there is scarcely a breath, and I don’t sail +one when it blows a hurricane, and so I find two +suits enough. Still if you race in matches, and mean +winning, you must have both a larger and smaller suit, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>for you can never tell what the wind will be on the +race day, and must be prepared.</p> + +<p>Now that all your sails are complete, paint the hull, +and varnish the deck again; tip the end of the masts +and booms the colour of your yacht, it looks ship-shape.</p> + +<figure class="figleft" id="p084"> + <img class="glyph4" src="images/p084.jpg" alt="hook for handling the ship"> +</figure> + +<p>A pole of pine or deal, 6 ft. long, with a double +hook at one end, is required to handle and turn the +ship. Herewith drawing of the hook. +One side is to push the ship out, and the +other to pull it in or turn it.</p> + +<p>Lastly, two bags are needed, each to contain 1 lb. +of shot, for shifting ballast to trim the ship, if you +require her deeper aft or forward.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a><a id="Page_86"></a><a id="Page_87"></a>87</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI"> + CHAPTER VI. + <br> + <span class="sm">HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The action of the wind upon the sails of a vessel +presses her down sideways and forwards, this causes +the lee bow (viz. that on the side opposed to the wind) +to be more immersed than the weather bow (or wind +side bow), and the curve of the bow acting like a rudder +or wedge, forces the vessel strongly up in the wind, in +exact proportion to the strength of the wind. This is +a simple mechanical law any one can understand after +watching a model yacht for five minutes, and to +counteract while utilizing it, I build a model yacht +much deeper aft than forward, make the bowsprit very +long, the jib and foresail large, and the mainsail narrow +at the head and slack in the outer leach or edge. +These arrangements, properly adjusted, nearly neutralize +this tendency of the lee bow to force the ship to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>windward, and leave only just enough, so that by +setting the sails in the way shown later, a model +yacht steers itself perfectly. Great care must be taken +not to overdo it, otherwise the vessel will run off the +wind, and not steer herself at all.</p> + +<p>The part which the increased depth of keel aft plays +in steering a model yacht is this; as the sails are very +evenly balanced, and exert little more force at the +stern than at the bow when <i>the vessel is upright in the +water</i>; yet even then there is always the tendency +more or less to come up in the wind, and as the bow +is not so deep as the stern, the lateral pressure of all +the sails forces the vessel sideways (called leeway),—she +makes more <i>leeway forward than aft</i>, and thus +this particular arrangement helps to make her steer +herself. Necessarily, when the wind blows strongly it is +of very great use, and enables increased length of bowsprit +to be dispensed with: too long a bowsprit is a +great drawback, it dips in the water, and is difficult to +fasten firmly.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span></p> + +<p>Again, a model vessel being well up by the stem, +and deep aft, possesses another power of self-steering, +viz. when the wind presses her down forward (when +on the wind), it lightens her aft; this, of course, +permits her to gripe more to windward, as she holds +more water forward and less aft, but if she comes up +too much, so as to relieve the mainsail of a great part +of its pressure, the opposite action results, the bow is +lightened and the stern depressed exactly in proportion, +so that under all circumstances the vessel possesses a +self-acting power to steer herself.</p> + +<p>Now, as just shown, a model yacht, partly by the +action of the sails (particularly the mainsail), and +partly by the action of the lee bow, will always keep +close to the wind,—in fact, too close; therefore, to make +her steer herself, the jib and foresail are kept in a +little closer (<i>i.e.</i> more in a parallel line with the keel) +than the mainsail. So if the vessel comes too close +to the wind, first the outer leach of the mainsail loses +its power and shakes, and if this does not suffice, <i>as it +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>should</i>, to make her fall off again, the whole mainsail +will shake, and as the jib and foresail must keep full, +the ship pays off till the mainsail fills again. So an +equilibrium is attained, and in a steady wind, on the +sea for instance, the yacht would sail on in the same +direction as if on rails, till the sails dropped in pieces.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p090"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p090.jpg" alt="boom positions"> +</figure> + +<p>This diagram gives the disposition of the booms by +means of their respective sheets. To make a yacht +sail full and by, <i>i.e.</i> close to the wind, and neither +run off or shake, the jib is nearly parallel to the +bowsprit, the foresail less so, and the mainsail least +of all, and clearly shows the principle, for it is evident +that if the vessel turned more towards the wind, the +mainsail would shake, and the jib and foresail keeping +still full, would turn the ship back to her course again, +viz. “full and by.” On the other hand, she cannot +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>run off the wind, because the mainsail, well full as it +must be, if she ran off, would bring her up again +instantly.</p> + +<p>I presume every intelligent person understands that +a vessel cannot sail with her head to the wind (all the +sails must shake, and she would go astern), and few +vessels can sail nearer, if so near, as at an angle of 45° +to the wind. In the next diagram will be shown +the way to sail the vessel in any <i>possible</i> direction, and +how the booms must be disposed, and the rudder or +rudders and ballast bags used to accomplish it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p092"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p092.jpg" alt="setting sails for direction of travel"> +</figure> + +<p>The wind is supposed to be blowing in the direction +the arrow flies, and by holding this diagram with the +arrow towards the point the wind is blowing from, your +vessel can be made to sail in every direction there +indicated.</p> + +<p>No vessel can head nearer towards the wind shown +by the arrow, than <i>a</i> and <i>aa</i>, one being on the larboard, +the other on the starboard tack (as it is called), <i>i.e.</i> +about 45°, four points of a compass, or half a right angle.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span></p> + +<p>The vessel at <i>a</i> is therefore sailing close to the +wind on the larboard tack, with the sails disposed for +that purpose, as already shown (<a href="#p090">p. 90</a>); to put her on +the other tack, simply turn her in the direction <i>aa</i>, +head to wind; the sails, being self-acting, will go over +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span>of themselves by the force of the wind, and she will +continue on that tack till stopped or turned.</p> + +<p>To sail her as at <i>b</i>, ease off the mainsheet till the +mainboom is at an angle of 45° (this is called wind +abeam) to the keel of the ship, and she will do so; it +is seldom necessary to touch the jib or foresheets, leave +those sails as at <i>a</i>. To sail her as at <i>bb</i>, turn her +round, head to wind, and the sails take the same place +on the other side, and that is done.</p> + +<p>To sail as at <i>c</i>, let go the mainsheet altogether; if the +wind is not too strong, she will do so, but if it is too +strong, a light rudder, self-acting, of about ¼ lb. weight +must be made and used, and that will do it. Turn +her round as before, head to wind, if you wish to sail +her as at <i>cc</i>. The rule is simple enough: if the sails +are set, and propel her in a given direction on the one +tack, she will, if turned, sail in the corresponding +direction on the other tack.</p> + +<p>To run before the wind at <i>d</i>, with the mainsheet let +go, hook on the heavy rudder, and she will run more +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>or less true before the wind, according to the perfection +with which the ship is built and the rudder balanced. +The cause is this: if the vessel turns, say to starboard, +the wind necessarily presses her over to larboard, the +self-acting rudder (being exactly upright when the ship +is upright) falls over to larboard also, and instantly +puts her straight again; the exact opposite takes place +should she turn to larboard, and so <i>she must sail +straight before the wind</i>.</p> + +<p>When the wind is very light, it will sometimes +occur, that the vessel on account of the large jib and +foresail, will run off the wind; if so, put one or two +of the bags of shot inside in her bows, and most +likely that will remedy it; if not, change the angles of +the jib and foresails, <i>i.e.</i> let the jib sheet out more, +and haul the foresheet in as much as the jib was, so +that you would then be steering more by the foresail +than by the jib. This is sure to succeed.</p> + +<p>Before all these manœuvres can be successfully performed, +some little practice is necessary, of course; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span>ships, like everything else, have little ways of their +own, and must be studied.</p> + +<p>The topsail must always be kept set, and needs no +touching after being once set, for though of no great +use as a propelling sail, save off the wind, it is so as a +steadying sail, being so lofty. My experience has +taught me never to dispense with it.</p> + +<p>To prove the certainty with which a model yacht +must sail in the direction intended, you can, as an +experiment, put the vessel’s head in the water in any +direction you please, and she will immediately take +the <i>course for which the sails are set</i>, no matter how +you put her in the water. For instance, place her in +the water, <i>head to wind</i>, with the mainsheet let go, +and the heavy rudder on, <i>i.e.</i> to sail as at <i>d</i> (<a href="#p092">p. 92</a>), and +she will of her own account turn round and run before +the wind, an operation which, to those not in the +secret, seems like magic.</p> + +<p>Rigged in the way I have described, with every part +of the standing and running rigging being made fast +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span>by hooks and slides, a cutter can be completely unrigged +in one minute, and rigged again in three +minutes: I have done it in these times easily. This +is a very great advantage; there are no knots to make, +no time is lost, and yet the rigging is as strong and +as perfect as possible, and never fails till worn out.</p> + +<p>I hope I have now made all clear, and that my +readers may be enabled to build ships, and rig them to +sail with as much satisfaction to themselves as mine +are to me.</p> + +<p>Model yachts can be rigged to sail and steer well, as +schooners, luggers, &c., and I have vessels rigged in +those ways. Should this treatise meet with success, I +purpose writing a second, dealing with this subject.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="MATERIALS_FOR_MODEL_SHIPS"> + <span class="sm">MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Block of wood: white pine or soft deal; at almost +any wood-yard, and particularly at those in the +neighbourhood of the docks; cost for a 2 ft. boat, +2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, for a 3 ft., about 10<i>s.</i></p> + +<p>Masts, booms, &c., of bamboo canes, at florists, +who sell cheap bamboos for about 8<i>d.</i> per dozen for +gardening purposes; the best can be selected, and they +will serve for masts, all the spars of a 2 ft. boat, and +for booms, gaffs, and topmasts of 3 ft. boats. Bamboos +for the mast, bowsprit, and mainboom of 3 ft. boats +can be got at fishing-tackle shops and toy shops; both +sell cheap bamboo fishing-rods at about 3<i>d.</i> each. +They can be easily selected of the required thickness +and length. Excellent bamboo canes for booms, gaffs, +and topmasts can also be obtained at umbrella shops +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span>and stick shops, but they cost more—1<i>d.</i>, 2<i>d.</i>, or 3<i>d.</i>, +and even 6<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p>Twine, white line, &c., for standing and running +rigging, can be had at fishing-tackle or cord and twine +shops.</p> + +<p>Calico and tape at any linendrapers.</p> + +<p>Lead at any plumber’s shop, 2<i>d.</i> or 3<i>d.</i> per lb.</p> + +<p>Paint and copal at any oilman’s. Paint 6<i>d.</i> or 8<i>d.</i> +per lb. Copal varnish about 1<i>s.</i> per pint; 3<i>d.</i> worth +is enough for a 3 ft. boat.</p> + +<p>Brass and copper wire at most ironmongers, as also +screw-eyes of any size. If the two former cannot be +readily obtained, Messrs. Jackson and Sons, 17, Sun +Street, Finsbury, keep every size in brass and copper +wire, and every thickness in brass and copper sheets; +all these are sold by weight.</p> + +<p>All sizes of rings can be had at fishing-tackle shops. +1<i>d.</i> or 2<i>d.</i> per dozen.</p> + +<p>Ferrules or bands for tipping the ends of spars to +prevent them splitting, can be got at fishing-tackle +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span>shops, and the amateur builder can file off any length +required; they are very cheap. For small bands, pipe +mounts are excellent, very light and thin, and easily +cut to any length. Most tobacconists keep them in all +sizes, 1<i>d.</i> or 2<i>d.</i> each.</p> + +<p>If the boat builder cannot get or make bands, lash +or bind the ends of the spars neatly and strongly with +good white thread, and then paint it well with copal. +It will answer every purpose, but does not look so +neat and trim.</p> + +<p>Lastly, slides can be made of any hard wood as well +as of bone, and the requisite holes bored with a bradawl, +and then seared with a red-hot skewer.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="GLOSSARY"> + <span class="sm">GLOSSARY.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<blockquote class="hang2"> +<p><span class="smcap">Abaft, Aft</span>, towards the stern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Amidships</span>, middle of a ship or anything.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Backstay</span>, ropes which support the mast +sideways and backwards.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beam</span>, breadth of a vessel, also the support +of the deck.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Board</span>, the distance sailed on one tack.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bobstay</span>, the rope that keeps the bowsprit +down; reaches from end of +bowsprit to cutwater.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boom</span>, any spar used to extend the foot +of a sail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bow</span>, front part of a vessel.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bowsprit</span>, spar projecting in front of a +vessel to set the jibs on.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bulwarks</span>, the wooden railings round +the deck of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Chock</span>, piece of wood to hold anything +firmly.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Close</span>, a vessel being as near the direction +of the wind as she can go without +shaking.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Counter</span>, the projection of the stem.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cutwater</span>, the sharp part of the bow.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Deck</span>, the covering of the ship to keep +the water out, &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Draw</span>, a ship draws so much water, <i>i.e.</i> it +is so many feet in the water.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Entrance</span>, the forward part of the +bottom of a vessel, tapered off to the +cutwater, so as to cleave the water.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fall off</span>, when a vessel turns from the +direction of the wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Foot</span>, bottom of a mast or sail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Fore and Aft</span>, any sail which does not +cross the mast.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Foresail</span>, sail in forepart of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Forward</span>, fore part of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Full</span>, when the sails are distended by +the wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Full and By</span>, close to the wind yet +not shaking. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Close</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gaff</span>, the spar which supports the head +of a fore and aft sail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Grummet</span>, a ring made of rope.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gudgeon</span>, a sort of eye-bolt for the +rudder to work on.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gunwale</span>, top of the side of a ship on +which the deck is fastened.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Guy</span>, rope to keep and secure the bowsprit, +&c., laterally.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Halyards</span>, ropes used to hoist the sails.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hatchway</span>, openings in the deck of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Head</span>, top of a mast or sail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hoist</span>, height a sail is pulled up.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hold</span>, the inside of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Horse</span>, long bars of iron on which the +sheets of sails work.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hull</span>, body of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Jaws</span>, any arrangement to secure a gaff +or boom to a mast, and allow it to +swing from side to side, &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Jib</span>, a three-cornered sail in front of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Keel</span>, the centre of the bottom of a ship.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laced</span>, tied in a certain way.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Larboard</span>, left.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Leach</span>, edge of a sail, generally the side.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lee</span>, side of a vessel farthest from that +from which the wind blows.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Lee-way</span>, the side-way motion of a ship +caused by the side pressure of the +wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Luff</span>, to go closer to the wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Luff</span> (of a sail), edge of a sail nearest +the wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Main-Halyards</span>, ropes to hoist the +mainsail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mainmast</span>, the lower mast in a cutter.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mainsheet</span>, the rope or gear to secure +and regulate the after lower corner of +the mainsail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Near</span>, same as close. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Close</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Off.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Fall off</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Overall</span>, from stem to stern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Pay off.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Fall off</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Peak</span>, the angular head of the mainsail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Peak-Halyards</span>, ropes to hoist the +outer end of the gaff.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Quarters</span>, both sides of a ship close to +the stern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Reaching</span>, sailing with the wind abeam +or nearly so.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Reefing</span>, reducing the sails by tying +them up smaller.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Run</span>, the after part of the bottom of a +vessel, tapered off to the sternpost, +so as to leave the water freely.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Running</span>, sailing with the wind astern +or nearly so.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Running Gear</span>, any ropes used for +hoisting the sails or yards.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Selvedge</span>, the even edge of linen, canvas, +&c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Shake</span>, when the sails shake in the +wind and so lose their power.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sheer</span>, slope of a vessel downwards to +midships from stem and stern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sheet</span>, ropes used to secure and regulate +lower after corner of sails.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Standing Gear</span>, any fixed ropes, as +backstays, &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Starboard</span>, right side.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stay</span>, ropes used to support the masts +forward only.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stem.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Cutwater</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Step</span>, socket for heel of mast, &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stern</span>, the after part of a vessel.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sternpost</span>, end of keel and run, upon +which the rudder is fixed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tack</span>, forward lower corner of a sail.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tack</span>, to make a zigzag course so as to +get to windward.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Taut</span>, tight.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Topmast</span>, the second mast from the deck.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Waterline</span>, line of the water on the +side, &c., of a ship, showing how +deep she is in the water.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Weather</span>, side of a vessel, &c., nearest +the wind.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Windward</span>, in direction of the wind, +the side from which the wind blows.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN"> + <span class="sm">CONTESTS ON THE OPEN SEA BETWEEN + CUTTERS “GOLDEN CREST” AND + “STORM ALONG.”</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p><i>1st Trial.</i> Strong breeze, rough sea, storm sails, foot of sails +laced to booms; 1½ miles on each tack. “Storm Along” beat +on each tack, about 50 yds. to windward.</p> + +<p><i>2nd Trial.</i> Large suits, light breeze and sea; 1½ miles on +each tack. “Storm Along,” all sails laced to booms; “Golden +Crest,” mainsail free and jib laced. “Storm Along” led a few +yards once; “Golden Crest” beat, 20 yds. in 2 boards.</p> + +<p><i>3rd Trial.</i> Sails as in 2nd Trial, moderate breeze and sea; +2 boards, 1½ miles each. “Golden Crest” beat, 20 yds. on each.</p> + +<p><i>4th Trial.</i> Sails as above, moderate breeze and sea, <i>interchanged +sails</i>. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile on each tack of +1 mile length each.</p> + +<p><i>5th Trial.</i> Moderate breeze and sea, “Storm Along” own +sails all free from booms, and “Golden Crest” all laced; 2 +boards of 1 mile each. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile to windward. +x last board of 1 mile; “Golden Crest,” all sails free +from booms, <i>i.e.</i> both vessels own sails and alike. “Storm +Along” beat, ¼ mile dead to windward.</p> + +<p><i>6th Trial.</i> Gentle breeze and sea, full suits and each their +own. “Storm Along” beat, 40 yds. to windward in ½ mile +board. “Golden Crest” headreached a little, this wind and +sea showing her best points.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT"> + <span class="sm">TIME TABLE OF TWO MODEL YACHT + REGATTAS.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Course once up and down pond, 259 yds. long, 30 yds. wide; +length of pond being E. and W.</p> + +<p class="p2 center">4 ft. cutters. Wind strong, E. by S. 4 vessels in each heat. +</p> + +<table class="autotable2"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl" rowspan="2"> +Heat +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Start. +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Run. +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Beat back. +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +Time. +</td> +</tr> +<tr class="bb"> + +<td class="tdc"> +H. M. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +H. M. +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +H. M. +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +M. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +1st +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 14 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 16¾ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 23½ +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +9½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2nd +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 33 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 36 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 42¾ +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +9¾ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +3rd +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 50 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 53 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +4 59 +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +9 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Loser’s +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 4 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 7 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 14¼ +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +10¼ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Final +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 20 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 23¼ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +5 31 +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +11 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<p>In this race, final heat, the three first winners fouled, and the +winner of loser’s heat won.</p> + +<p class="p2 center">3 ft. cutters. Wind strong, W. by S. Course as above.</p> + + + +<table class="autotable2"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" rowspan="2"> +Heat +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Start. +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Run. +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Beat back. +</td> +<td class="tdc bb"> +Time. +</td> +</tr> +<tr class="bb"> + +<td class="tdl"> +H. M. S. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +H. M. S. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +H. M. S. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +M. S. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +1st +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 14 50 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 18 30 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 26 23 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +11 33 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +2nd +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 35 30 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 39 8 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +5 46 40 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +11 10 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +3rd +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 3 5 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 6 40 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 16 5 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +13 0 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Loser’s +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 23 5 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 26 30 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 36 10 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +13 5 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Final +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 43 52 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 47 25 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +6 54 50 +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +10 58 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<p>This last race won by 6 in. only.</p> + +<p>By examining above table, it appears to novices almost incredible +that such precision can be attained in model yacht +sailing. All the heats were won by a few feet only, and some +by inches.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="BEST_WATERS_FOR_SAILING_MODEL_YACHTS"> + <span class="sm">BEST WATERS FOR SAILING MODEL YACHTS.</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The best ponds for sailing model yachts in London are: (1) +Victoria Park Pond, but only when the wind is E. or W. (2) +Round Pond, Kensington, in any winds, all sides of this pond +being clear of trees. (3) Serpentine, in any wind.</p> + +<p>Hampstead and Highgate ponds are also available, but have +muddy edges, and seldom a true wind on account of the high +banks.</p> + +<p>There are also good ponds on Clapham Common and +Peckham Rye.</p> + + +<p class="p2 center"><span class="xsm">GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE, LONDON.</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p class="center"> + <strong>BOOKS OF INSTRUCTION AND AMUSEMENT.</strong><br> +</p> +<p class="center p2"> + <i>THE BOY’S OWN TOY MAKER</i>: +</p> +</div> + +<p class="center">A Practical Illustrated Guide to the useful employment of Leisure Hours. +By <span class="smcap">E. Landels</span>. With 200 Cuts. Ninth Edition. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + + +<blockquote class="sm"> +<p>“A new and valuable form of endless amusement.”—<i>Nonconformist.</i></p> + +<p>“We recommend it to all who have children to be instructed and amused.”—<i>Economist.</i></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class="center p2"> + <i>THE GIRL’S OWN TOY MAKER</i><br> + <span class="sm">AND BOOK OF RECREATION</span>. +</p> + + +<p class="center">By E. and A. <span class="smcap">Landels</span>. With 200 Illustrations. New Edition. The +Eleventh Thousand. Just ready. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + + +<blockquote class="sm"> +<p>“Contains a large number of engravings, and gives instruction, with many examples, +how to make Paper Toys, &c., &c., in which young people especially take +interest.”—<i>Leeds Mercury.</i></p> + +<p>“Within the past few years great advancement has been made in the educational +system it is meant to encourage, and it is, therefore, all the more likely to obtain a +still wider circulation.”—<i>Edinburgh Daily Review.</i></p> + +<p>“Capital little volume ... will be found a rare prize for families.”—<i>City Press.</i></p> + +<p>“We can easily imagine the delight with which a family of children would welcome +this interesting work.”—<i>Scholastic World.</i></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class="center p2"> + <span class="sm">THE ILLUSTRATED</span><br> + <i>PAPER MODEL MAKER</i>; +</p> + + +<p class="center">Containing Twelve Subjects and Practical Diagrams for their +Construction, in an Envelope. Price 2<i>s.</i></p> + + +<p class="center p2 sm"> + GRIFFITH & FARRAN,<br> + WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.<br> + E. P. DUTTON & CO., NEW YORK. +</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<p class="center"> Transcriber’s Notes.</p> + +<p> +Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised. +</p> + + +<p>A half-title and reiterations of chapter titles have been discarded.</p> + +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78905-h/images/cover.jpg b/78905-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..426cc91 --- /dev/null +++ b/78905-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/78905-h/images/p006.jpg b/78905-h/images/p006.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8bf2389 --- /dev/null +++ b/78905-h/images/p006.jpg diff --git a/78905-h/images/p007.jpg b/78905-h/images/p007.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..140e089 --- /dev/null +++ b/78905-h/images/p007.jpg diff --git a/78905-h/images/p017.jpg b/78905-h/images/p017.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6bc0098 --- /dev/null +++ b/78905-h/images/p017.jpg diff --git a/78905-h/images/p019.jpg 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