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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***
+
+
+
+
+                              MODEL YACHTS
+                        AND MODEL YACHT SAILING.
+
+                      _HOW TO BUILD, RIG, AND SAIL
+                       A SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT._
+
+                                   BY
+                        JAMES E. WALTON, V.M.Y.C.
+
+
+                ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.
+
+                             [Illustration]
+
+                          GRIFFITH AND FARRAN,
+                    SUCCESSORS TO NEWBERY AND HARRIS,
+              WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.
+                     E. P. DUTTON AND CO., NEW YORK.
+                               MDCCCLXXX.
+
+
+    _The rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved._
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+
+LATERAL VIEW OF 3 FT. YACHT (⅔ inch to the foot).
+
+_a a_ mainsail. _b b_ topsail. _c c_ foresail. _d d_ jib. _a_ mainmast.
+_b_ topmast. _c_ bowsprit. _d_ main boom. _e_ gaff. _f_ foresail boom.
+_g_ jib boom. _h_ bobstay. _i_ mainrigging (port or left side). _j_
+hull. _k_ false keel. _l_ lead keel. _m_ counter. _n_ sternpost. _o_
+stem. _p_ self-acting rudder, only used when running.
+
+_For deck outline and measurement of this Model “Diana” Cutter, see
+diagram 8, p. 19._]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  PREFACE                                                   11
+
+  INTRODUCTION                                              15
+
+  I. PRINCIPLES OF SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT BUILDING         21
+
+  II. HOW TO MAKE THE HULL                                  31
+
+  III. HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, &C.               47
+
+  IV. HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING GEAR, &C.      57
+
+  V. HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM                     73
+
+  VI. HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT                   85
+
+  MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS                                 97
+
+  GLOSSARY                                                 100
+
+  MODEL YACHT CONTESTS ON THE SEA                          102
+
+  TABLES OF MODEL YACHT REGATTAS                           103
+
+  WATERS IN LONDON FOR MODEL YACHT SAILING                 104
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+There are not many open-air amusements which afford more genuine
+enjoyment to old and young than Model Yacht Sailing; if practised in a
+properly scientific manner it resembles a game of croquet, in which the
+water is the lawn, the wind the mallet, and the ships the balls; and
+the most skilful yachtsman is as certain of winning his match as is the
+most skilful croquet player.
+
+Very few English boys can be found who have not taken, or do not take
+an interest in model ships, and it is very remarkable, as well as
+no little disgrace to us as a maritime nation, to note the utterly
+purposeless way in which nearly all boys or men sail their model
+vessels; whereas with the requisite knowledge, a self-acting model
+yacht is as much under the control of the manager as if he were
+actually on board: further still, matches can be sailed in which the
+results are as certain as are those of the matches of ordinary yachts,
+as may be seen in the tables of actual races at the end of this work
+(see p. 103).
+
+A sailor who thoroughly understands the management of a ship or
+boat, _when he is on board_, _steers with a rudder_, and _reduces_,
+_augments_, or _disposes_ the sails at his will, would find this
+knowledge of very secondary importance if he applied it, _without
+great modifications_, to sail a model yacht. To give one instance
+only, _model yachts require no fixed rudder_, in fact, a fixed rudder
+is such an incumbrance, and so great a bar to perfect action, that it
+must be dispensed with altogether. This quite upsets the old adage of
+a “ship without a rudder,” and reverses it; our model ships need no
+rudder--steer better without, save in one way.
+
+A rudder is used at times on model yachts, as will be shown in its
+place, but it must be removed when it has done its work.
+
+The sails and hulls of model yachts are also very different to those
+of full-sized yachts. They are constructed with the _view to being
+self-acting_, and as a model yacht _must steer itself_, this result can
+only be obtained by using the sails both for _propelling and steering_.
+
+Model yachts, as usually made, may be very beautiful to look at,
+but, alas! they will not sail, or will not sail well, they are not
+self-acting in any sense, they are generally actual reproductions in
+miniature of celebrated large yachts, and as these latter are sailed
+and steered by men on board, it is very certain their miniature copies
+will not sail without similar guidance.
+
+I have made these remarks to show that model self-acting yachts cannot
+be made and sailed without the requisite knowledge and experience,
+and as there is no book to be got which gives full particulars on the
+subject, it is believed that this, which contains the result of many
+years’ model yacht making and sailing, will supply an almost national
+want, and enable any ordinarily intelligent boy to construct, rig, and
+sail a model yacht with perfect success.
+
+As a proof of the pains that have been taken to ascertain the best
+hull and rig for a self-acting yacht, I may say that five yachts have
+been made, all of the same length, but each of different beam, rig,
+&c., commencing with very narrow beam, and increasing beam, &c., with
+each model, till the best proportion between length and beam became
+known,--necessarily with each increase of beam _more sail could be
+carried_, and also more _ballast in lead keel_ could be used,--and in
+order that the experiments should be crucial and decisive, a final
+vessel was constructed of the same measurement as the best of those
+before mentioned, and their sails were made interchangeable, thus
+deciding beyond doubt which vessel was best, after many trials on the
+open sea with a true wind.
+
+It is doubtful if such experiments were ever made before (tables of
+them will be seen at p. 102), and the author, therefore, feels assured
+that his readers may have every confidence in the instruction here
+given.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+The first thing necessary for non-nautical yachtsmen is to know the
+names of the different sails, parts of the vessel, &c., &c., and for
+this purpose the diagram forming the frontispiece will be useful; a
+glossary, also, is added at the end of the work.
+
+The frontispiece is an exact outline drawing of a model self-acting
+yacht, of 3-feet water-line, and 39 in. over all; the diagram is drawn
+in the proportion of ⅔ in. to the foot, and if any reader desires to
+make a smaller boat, say 30 in., all that need be done is to make
+everything ⅙ smaller, and for a 2 ft. boat ⅓ smaller; as the keel,
+however, would have to be calculated by weight, and the above rule
+would not apply, I give the weight in lbs.; a 3 ft. boat requires 20
+lbs., a 2 ft. 6 in. boat 10 or 11 lbs., and a 24 in. boat 6 lbs. or
+nearly.
+
+I will note here that it is better to make a vessel scooped out, &c.,
+from the solid block, than to build one of small planks; 1st, it is
+easier (it takes a good carpenter to make one of planks), it can be
+altered outside if not scooped out too thin at first, it never _leaks_,
+and it never comes to pieces; and, lastly, it does not take half the
+time to repaint, &c., &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+PRINCIPLES OF MODEL YACHT BUILDING.
+
+
+In order to ascertain the best lines, _i.e._ shape, for progression
+through the water, Nature herself may, without hesitation, be taken as
+the best teacher, and amongst fast-moving fishes a mackerel is one of
+the fastest and most graceful.
+
+I procured a mackerel, carefully measured and drew it to scale (see p.
+17, diagrams 1 and 2), first taking the shape back upwards, and next
+sideways, and in harmony with these lines all the vessels mentioned in
+this work are constructed.
+
+On looking at the diagram of the mackerel it is at once apparent that
+a clean run is more important than a sharp entrance, for the drawing
+shows the fish to be much fuller in the fore than in the after part;
+bearing this in mind, and having drawn the mackerel in divisions of
+inches, I took the forward eleven divisions as a model for the deck and
+general lines of my vessels--first, so far as regards “_going through
+the water_;” secondly, because I should thus get “_the widest part
+or beam amidships_,” and as near the centre of motion and gravity as
+possible.
+
+With these ideas in my mind I constructed “Seashell” (see diagram 3, p.
+17), with the actual measurements there stated (as is the case on all
+the drawings). I rigged her as a schooner; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+She sailed well and steadily, and could be made to go in any direction
+in a light breeze, but her _narrow beam and lightness_, with only 3
+lbs. keel, rendered her useless in a stiff breeze, except when she was
+running away from it.
+
+I next built “Mermaid” (see diagram 4), with nearly 2 in. more beam,
+and exactly to the measurement of the mackerel sideways, simply
+increasing each line in proportion as the ship was larger than the
+fish; all the lines of the hull being of course in harmony with the
+increased beam, she had 5 lbs. lead keel, and was rigged as a cutter
+(see “Diana” for cutter rig, frontispiece), schooner, or lugger at
+pleasure. I found she beat “Seashell” considerably in any wind, but
+especially in strong winds, sailing under any of the above-mentioned
+sails.
+
+Learning by this that increased beam and weight meant more power, more
+sail, and greater speed, I then made “Silver Spray” (see diagram 5),
+with 8 lbs. keel, and nearly 2 in. more beam than “Mermaid,” and in
+this vessel I reached about the proportional beam that most model yacht
+builders have adopted, viz. 3½ beams to the length. I rigged her as a
+cutter only, and she easily beat “Mermaid” every way. I also discovered
+that cutter rig was best, the boats under this rig sailing faster and
+truer, and are more quickly and expeditiously managed; at the same time
+I discarded fixed rudders for reasons stated before.
+
+With this model, “Silver Spray,” I had reached a point at which I stuck
+for some time; I could hardly think still increased beam or depth would
+be an advantage, yet I wished to progress, and try something I would.
+
+I thought the matter over carefully, and at last arrived at the
+following conclusions: A fish goes _through the water only, but a ship
+goes through and over_. Now a duck goes over the water; how would a
+vessel built upon a combination of fish and duck succeed?
+
+I got a duck, took a plaster cast of his under side, noticed the way
+ducks got over the water, the resistance of the water and the ripples
+and wake caused by the duck’s motion over the water, and I decided
+to make a ship to go _over the water rather than through it_; the
+top of the _water is alive_, and easily displaced in any direction
+save downwards, the deeper one goes the stiller it is, and the more
+difficult to displace. I considered, therefore, if I built a vessel of
+greater beam, very light draught of water, with a lead keel well below
+the bottom, I should get greatly increased power and speed, for I felt
+satisfied that the light draught and larger sails more than compensated
+for a wider beam.
+
+It stands also to reason that a vessel of a wide beam does _not heel
+over to leeward_ so much as one of a narrower beam, and it results
+from that--1st, the sails being more perpendicular to the wind, have
+more power to propel; and 2nd, the keel being also more “up and down,”
+prevents her making so much leeway.
+
+No doubt there is a limit to breadth of beam, and although I have
+not yet fully experimented, I am inclined to think that the limit is
+reached in “Diana,” of three beams to the length.
+
+On this I built “Golden Crest” (see diagram 6, p. 19), with these
+qualities, beam 10⅓ in., or ⅓ her length exactly, and only a bare 4
+in. depth, and 10 lbs. lead keel; I fitted her with sails as a cutter,
+making them larger than those of “Silver Spray,” in proportion to her
+increased beam and ballast (in lead keel), and she more than fulfilled
+my utmost expectations, for she beat all the three former models out
+and out, both in speed and steadiness.
+
+Still, however, I had not quite finished my experiments, for I remarked
+that in strong winds “Golden Crest,” on account of her low freeboard
+(_i.e._ little height out of the water), was sometimes overpowered
+sooner than I thought she ought to be, and I determined to build
+another vessel on the same lines and of the same size exactly, but
+with 1 in. deeper hold; this I did in “Storm Along” (see diagram 7, p.
+19), the only difference between this and “Golden Crest” being the 1
+in. extra depth of hold; lead keel, sails, masts, &c., &c., all were
+exactly the same.
+
+Now, when Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug of war. So it was here,
+and it was only after numberless trials in all winds, and finally by
+actually interchanging their sails, that “Storm Along” proved the
+winner; the reason this was difficult to establish was that at first
+I only sailed _each with its own sails_; when the wind was moderate
+and sea smooth, “Golden Crest” won a little; on the other hand, with
+strong breezes and sea on, “Storm Along” won. I interchanged their
+sails, and “Storm Along” won considerably always. I then found out that
+I had happened to lace the feet of the sails of “Storm Along” to their
+booms, but it never struck me such a trifle would interfere much with
+the sailing of a model: I was mistaken, however, for I found whichever
+had the laced sails was sure to lose, and “Golden Crest” lost most;
+mind, all these experiments were conducted on the open sea for hours,
+with true winds and true sea (the most perfect test). I cut the sails
+loose, and at once and ever after, “Storm Along” proved invariably the
+victor; in light winds by very, very little, but in strong winds the
+greater buoyancy, and therefore lateral power, of “Storm Along” always
+carried the day.
+
+With all these ships there are _no bulwarks_, no ornaments, or
+projections of any kind, nothing but the gear, &c., necessary to set
+the sails and work them; everything else is not only useless, but
+mischievous lumber.
+
+It may be remarked that the whole of those boats when running before
+the wind, with self-acting lead rudders, run at very nearly the _same
+speed_, length to a great extent governing speed; but on turning to
+windward, each falls into its place, as assigned to it in the foregoing
+pages.
+
+I have not yet tried whether greater beam still than ⅓ the length is an
+improvement; I am resting on my oars awhile, and perhaps some one else
+may undertake the experiment.
+
+Particulars of the races between “Golden Crest” and “Storm Along” are
+noted on p. 102.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+HOW TO MAKE THE HULL.
+
+
+Before entering upon the subject of this chapter, I will enumerate
+the tools which will be needed: these are a small axe, saw, plane, 1
+in. gouge, ½ in. gouge, a rasp, a bradawl, a screw-driver, a gimlet,
+a hammer, a pair of small round-nosed pliers, a rat-tail file, a
+half-round file, a small mallet, and last, though not least, a good
+pocket knife.
+
+It is best and easiest, at any rate for beginners, to cut out model
+ships from a solid block, because if not scooped out too thin,
+alterations can be made on the outside if desirable; if the block, in
+process of cutting out, should split, rub it with a piece of flannel
+dipped in linseed oil every time after working on it, the tools cut
+just as easily, and all liability to split is obviated.
+
+To make a 3 ft. yacht (see lateral view, frontispiece; deck outline,
+diagram 8, p. 19; and sectional outlines, p. 37), get a block of deal,
+with as few knots and cracks in it as possible, and well-seasoned; it
+must be 39 in. long, 13 in. wide, and 8 in. deep; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Divide it into two exact halves, as shown by the dotted line--this
+centre line must _never be lost_ or _rubbed out till the hull is
+finished_; choose the best side for the deck or upper side, divide it
+lengthways into eleven compartments or divisions, and carefully set off
+on each side the length of each line (as shown in diagram 8, p. 19);
+thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+With the axe (mind all the tools are sharp) chop off carefully both
+sides of the block till it is shaped thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+With the gouge cut out the run and entrance in the bottom of the piece
+of wood, beginning a little forward of the middle for the run; and at
+same time cut away so much of the bottom as will leave ½ in. for the
+keel, by ⅝ wide. The next diagram shows one side, with entrance and run
+cut out.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Having cut out the other side to _correspond exactly_, and rounded the
+sides and bottom with the plane and rasp, taking care all the curved
+parts are in keeping with the curves of the deck diagram C, saw a
+slanting piece off the cutwater, about ½ in. at bottom to nothing at
+top, measure 36 in. from the middle of the cutwater towards the stern,
+and cut out the piece of keel in the run, so as to leave the counter
+(projecting of the stern); thus (the dotted lines show where and how to
+cut)--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The counter must not project more than 3 in., and therefore the ship
+will be 3 ft. keel, and 3 ft. 3 in. over all. Now smooth and model the
+ship to your best ability, see the keel _is quite straight_, and the
+_sternpost perpendicular to the stempost or cutwater_ (_a a_ is the
+sternpost in above diagram E).
+
+If the vessel is now exactly equal on both sides, and not lob-sided,
+as sailors call it, you can finish it with the rasp, scrape it with
+glass, and polish it with sand paper, making the outside look perfectly
+ship-shape.
+
+The sectional views here shown enable the model ship builder to
+judge of the correctness of his work; they represent the hull _when
+finished_, if cut athwart or across into four pieces of equal length,
+and by holding the vessel in the required position the builder can see
+if his model present these or nearly these outlines exteriorly; if so,
+it is right.
+
+It is not at all necessary to adhere exactly to this outline of the
+midship section (although it governs the outlines of the other two); it
+may be cut somewhat flatter on the bottom, as indicated by the dotted
+lines, and this would of course slightly vary the other sectional
+outlines, but I do not think it should be made more angular, nor do I
+advise it, as the vessel would lose too much buoyancy.
+
+[Illustration: SECTIONAL VIEWS.]
+
+The next thing is to scoop it out with the gouge and mallet. Leave
+the sides everywhere ⅜ or ½ in. thick, and be careful not to scoop
+thinner, or leave the sides thicker in one part than another.
+
+The gouge is the principal tool for this work, but a centrebit, to
+bore holes all over the inside, is a great assistance, it saves half
+the hammering; however, when scooped out and the inside smoothed, your
+vessel should look thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Next make the _sheer_ by planing out the gunwale (gunwale _a a_),
+beginning at nothing forward at the stem, gradually increasing to ½ in.
+amidships, and again decreasing to nothing at the stern. The diagram G
+below shows clearly what is meant by the sheer, and how to fashion it:
+the dotted line is the sheer--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+and a vessel looks very stiff and ungraceful without it.
+
+Now give the inside a coat of white paint, and then the deck can be put
+on. The deck must be made of one piece of deal plank, without splits
+or knots, ¼ in. thick at the sides, and ⅜ in. in the middle; this
+gives the deck a slightly rounded appearance, and, besides, greatly
+strengthens it. Mark the shape of the gunwale on the plank by turning
+the ship bottom upwards upon it, and marking it round with a pencil;
+draw a middle line from end to end, and cut it to the required shape as
+near as possible.
+
+A beam must now be put across the middle of the ship, exactly level
+with the gunwale on both sides, to support the deck and strengthen the
+sides of the ship; the beam should be ½ in. square; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Screw the sides of the ship to the ends of the beam; then put on
+the deck, and screw it to the gunwale all round with ½ in. brass
+(everything must be brass except the lead keel) screws at about equal
+distances of 3 in., and two or three screws through the deck into the
+beam; if this is done in a workmanlike way, and the edge of the deck
+planed off and smoothed level with the side of the ship, the hull ought
+to be perfect, and practically water-tight. Mind in putting in the beam
+to leave place for the hatchway or step of the mast.
+
+The next operation is to put on the keels--false and leaden. The false
+keel is simply a strip of beech, oak, or mahogany, of the same length
+as the keel of the ship, ⅝ in. thick, ½ in. deep at one end, and 1 in.
+at the other; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This must be screwed into the keel of the ship with brass screws of
+proper length, _i.e._ not to go through the bottom of the ship, about 6
+in. apart. This false keel, and the position it occupies, can be easily
+seen in the drawing of “Diana,” and is marked K; the leaden keel is
+underneath as there shown, and I will now describe the best way to make
+it.
+
+20 lbs. of lead will be required for a 3 ft. yacht, as before
+stated, and the lead can be melted in any old pot, on any ordinary
+clear kitchen fire. First make an oblong narrow box or mould of any
+smooth ½ in. boards--_dry_, or the lead will splutter and be full of
+air-holes--3 ft. long inside, ⅝ in. inside width, 2 in. deep at one
+end, and 3 in. at the other; this will hold about 20 lbs. of lead, and
+here follows a drawing of the mould.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Into the bottom of this mould, and sticking upright, as shown in
+the drawing, must be placed at equal distances six or eight pegs,
+beginning about 1 in. from the extreme ends of the mould; these pegs
+must be rather thicker than the screws intended to screw the leaden to
+the false keel, and will, as no doubt the intelligent reader already
+perceives, leave holes in the cast leaden keel for the screws to go
+through, these screws may be long enough to go through the false keel
+into the ship’s bottom, and the work will be all the stronger and
+better. Having melted the lead, pour it at once into the mould, and the
+keel is made; when cool take it out of the mould, trim it, smooth the
+sides and top and bottom with the plane, and let the shape be something
+thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Screw it on to and through the false keel (if you cannot make holes
+through the false keel to receive the screws without danger of
+splitting it, bore them in their proper places with the bradawl, and
+then burn them out with a red-hot skewer); the thickest end of the keel
+must be aft or behind, and when screwing it on mind and bore out the
+top of the holes in the lead, so that the heads of the screws may be
+quite level with the lead (this operation is called countersinking the
+screws); the heaviest end of the lead is put aft so as to make the ship
+well up at the stem and deep at the stern; the reason for this will be
+given in the chapter on “sailing a model yacht.”
+
+It may, however, be well to add here that the false keel, by holding
+the leaden keel at a greater distance from the bottom of the ship,
+greatly increases the _leverage of the leaden keel without increasing
+the weight_, and gives great hold upon the water, however little water
+the hull may draw, so that more sail can be carried, and the ship steer
+better with this arrangement than without it.
+
+Now try how she floats, and if she floats about 3 in. deeper aft than
+forward, that will do.
+
+Next get a strip of sheet brass about 5 ft. long, ½ in. wide, and ⅛ in.
+thick; most likely you will have to get this soldered in two or three
+pieces; it is to make a band to cover the leaden keel at the bottom,
+ends, and also the stem and sternpost, to keep them from being injured
+by stones, &c., on striking the shore, &c.; holes must be punched in
+it at every 3 in. where it covers the lead, and at every inch where it
+covers the wood of the stem and sternpost.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The above drawing shows what is meant, and the place it occupies (I
+have distorted the drawing to show it better); it must be screwed
+with brass ½ in. screws, countersunk, to the lead keel, &c., as above
+stated; the cutwater part of it must be filed away to ¼ in. wide,
+the rest may be left ½ in. wide. This has always been to me the most
+difficult operation, and it must be well done and put on perfectly
+straight at bottom and both ends.
+
+When screwing it on leave one hole without screw in the stem for the
+bobstay, and two in the sternpost for the self-acting rudder, as shown
+in this drawing.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The one in the stem must be about 5 in. from top, and the two in the
+sternpost about 5 in. apart--the black dots show the places.
+
+The hull is now finished; next scratch the deck with straight lines ½
+in. apart from stem to stern to imitate planks, leaving ½ in. margin
+all round to look like a gunwale, and with the following remarks I will
+close this chapter.
+
+It must be understood that it is almost impossible to mention every
+operation; many things, and the way to do them, must be left to the
+ingenuity and skill of the builder; it is sufficient that if my
+directions have been reasonably carried out, the result, so far, will
+be a good seaworthy model yacht’s hull.
+
+I have given in this chapter and elsewhere the dimensions for a 3 ft.
+boat, because it is easier to work downwards from a large size than
+upwards from a small one. There is less chance of mistake, for an error
+in a 2 ft. boat would be multiplied by working upwards, while the same
+error would be decreased in working downwards.
+
+A 3 ft. boat is somewhat large and heavy; 2 ft. and 2 ft. 6 in. are
+the best sizes. Indeed, unless a large boat is specially required,
+beginners should not attempt anything larger than a 2 ft. boat, and
+even a boat 1 ft. 6 in. is a very good size for boys, and will sail,
+&c., as well as a 3 ft. boat, though of course not so fast.
+
+I append tables of measurement for the blocks of wood and weight of
+keels for all these sizes:--
+
+  For boat      block (inches)   keel (lbs)
+  3 ft.         39  × 13  × 8    20
+  2 ft. 6 in.   32½ × 10⅚ × 6⅔   10
+  2 ft.         26  ×  8⅔ × 5⅓    7
+  1 ft. 6 in.   19½ ×  6½ × 4     3
+
+It would not matter if in the large sizes the keel were a pound or
+so heavier, and in the small a half-pound or so; but on no account
+must they be lighter in any case. I also add the weight of the leaden
+rudders necessary to make the vessels run before the wind.
+
+  3 ft. boat        1¼ lbs.
+  2 ft. 6 in. boat   ¾  ”
+  2 ft. boat         ½  ”
+  1 ft. 6 in. boat   ¼  ”
+
+For the masts, sails, and tackle of smaller boats, the calculation of
+size may be easily made.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, ETC.
+
+
+I purpose in this chapter to show how to make and fit all that is
+required on the deck to secure and work the rigging and sails. The
+following is a diagram of the deck of the ship, with each object in its
+proper place, and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each,
+with description:--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first object, _a_, is a 1½ in. or 2 in. screw-eye, with large eye
+for the bowsprit to go through; this must be carefully screwed into
+the thick wood at the stem through the deck; _b_ is the chock for the
+heel or inner end of the bowsprit to fit in; _c_ is the horse for the
+foresheet to work on; _d_ is the hole or step for the mainmast; _e_ is
+the hatchway or opening in the deck, just large enough to admit the
+hand easily; _f_ is the horse for the mainsheet to travel on; _g g_
+and _h h_ are 1 in. eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and
+main-backstays to be hooked to; these must be firm and strong. Here is
+a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only.
+
+[Illustration: _a_ mainmast. _b_ topmast. _c_ gaff. _d_ mainboom.
+_e_ starboard or right backstay. _f_ larboard or left backstay. _g_
+bowsprit. _h_ starboard bowsprit guy. _i_ larboard bowsprit guy. _j_
+bobstay. _k_ India-rubber ring to keep boom down.]
+
+Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, _a_, requires no explanation:
+it must be just large enough in the eye for the bowsprit to go
+through; if not large enough, file it to the necessary size with the
+rat-tail file.
+
+The chock _b_ (p. 49) must be made out of a piece of oak or mahogany
+about 3 in. long, and about 1 in. thick; a hole ½ in. deep, and of
+the diameter of the end or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it;
+thus--[Illustration]; the other end may be tapered off to taste, and
+screwed strongly right through into the deck exactly amidships. It
+should be of such a height that when the bowsprit is in its place it
+shall be perfectly in a line with the mid-deck line, and also with
+the stem and stern (as shown in the diagram, p. 50). The chock may be
+placed any distance from the stem, so long as it is not too close to
+the horse for foresheet (diagram, p. 49).
+
+The horse for foresheet is made as follows: Cut two diamond or other
+shaped pieces of sheet brass, ⅛ in. thick, and about 1½ in. in length;
+thus--[Illustration]; make a small hole at each corner, and a larger
+hole in the centre; then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and
+bend it at the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the
+plates; thus--[Illustration], and solder or get soldered, the wire to
+the plates underneath; bore holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or
+so forward of the mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck
+line; fit in the two ends, _a a_, and screw the plates firmly to the
+deck: if it is desired to be very neat, all the small holes should be
+countersunk.
+
+Another horse must be made exactly the same way, but 1 in. wider and
+somewhat stronger, for the mainsheet (diagram, p. 49, _f_), and put as
+near the edge of the stern as due regard for strength will permit.
+
+The step or socket for the mainmast comes next. Get a short piece of
+brass tube ⅝ in. internal diameter, and about 7½ in. long; have a screw
+soldered into one end; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of exactly the same
+diameter as the outside of the pipe or socket 13 in. from the stem,
+_i.e._ ⅓ the length of the deck; put the brass tube in the hole, and
+screw it tightly to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line
+drawn from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that the
+mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright from all sides; file
+the top of the socket off if too high, so as to leave not more than ¼
+in. above the deck.
+
+To make the hatchway or hole (_e_ in diagram, p. 49), cut out an oval
+or oblong hole in the centre of the deck, just abaft or behind the beam
+(diagram H, p. 39); a water-tight cover or stopper must be made for
+this with cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters not
+provided it is not much above the level of the deck, is water-tight,
+and can be taken in or out.
+
+Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the starboard quarter
+(see _i_ in diagram, p. 49), make a short peg to fit it, and call it
+the _pump_; by inclining the ship towards this hole after sailing, and
+drawing the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the water out
+if necessary.
+
+The screw-eyes _g g_ and _h h_, p. 49, explain themselves by referring
+to _e_, _f_, _h_, and _i_, in diagram, p. 50; they are to hook on
+the rigging as there shown. These eye-bolts, _h h_, must be as close
+abaft the mainmast as is consistent with their properly supporting the
+mainmast, both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if placed too
+far aft they would interfere with the mainboom swinging far enough out
+when running before the wind; the nearer the mainboom is to a right
+angle with the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before
+the wind. _g g_ may be in a line with the horse for the foresheet _c_
+(diagram, p. 49); care must be taken to screw them through the edge of
+the deck, and into the gunwale firmly.
+
+To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or box similar to that
+for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in. deep, and ½ in. wide.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through the bottom,
+and about an inch into the box (as in dotted line), bend them so as
+to make them stick in the lead, and just as far apart as are the two
+screw-eyes for this rudder in diagram “stern,” p. 44; pour in 1¼
+lbs. of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the wires
+thus--[Illustration]; and when hooked into the screw-eyes or gudgeons,
+it should act easily either to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young
+model yacht sailors can vary the shape of the rudder; I have given the
+simplest and easiest shape to make.
+
+This completes all the deck fittings necessary for working and sailing
+the ship, but if on trial the rudder should be too heavy or too light,
+another must be made--experience is the best guide.
+
+I need hardly say that every direction I have given need not be
+followed to the letter; those who see and know what is required can
+do many things in their own way, and much must necessarily be left to
+individual taste, skill, and ingenuity.
+
+At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish, and paint the hull
+whatever colour or colours fancy dictates; I, however, advise one
+colour only for the hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or
+repair, eventualities often recurring with model yachts.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING GEAR, ETC.
+
+
+The best material for making masts and spars is bamboo canes, these
+require little trimming, can be procured of any thickness and length,
+and are stronger, lighter, and more elastic than any other kind of wood.
+
+The mainmast must be 38 in. long from the deck, and ⅝ in. diameter at
+the foot, to fit the socket or step (diagram, p. 52), slightly tapering
+to the head or top; the head must be fitted with a brass ferrule or
+socket for the topmast (like a fishing-rod), and must be _included_ in
+the above 38 in. length, but as the mast has to fit in the step, the
+depth of the step must be added to it.
+
+If the yacht builder cannot solder or get soldered eyes on the socket
+at the mast-head, he must lash them on for the foresail, jib, and main-
+and peak-halyards, and also for the main-backstays; thus--
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _a_ socket for topmast.
+  _b_ ring for peak-halyards.
+  _c_ ring for throat-halyards.
+  _d_ ring for jib-halyards.
+  _e_ ring for foresail-halyards.
+  _f_ ring for starboard-backstay.
+  _g_ ring for larboard-backstay.
+  _h_ gaff.
+]
+
+Rings _d_ and _e_ must be lashed forward, _b_ and _c_ aft, _f_ and _g_
+one on each side, _e_ and _c_ about an inch below _f_ and _b_; this is
+all necessary for the mainmast.
+
+The bowsprit must be 34½ in. long outside the stem and a trifle thicker
+than the mainmast; be careful to allow the extra length from the stem
+to the chock (p. 51); it must have rings (these rings can be got at any
+fishing shop, of all sizes--[Illustration], any size will do, so that
+the lines used pass easily through) for the guys and bobstay lashed
+on, and hooks for the jib and foresail; tip the end with a band thus,
+to prevent damage to it by collisions--
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  _a a_ rings on each side, close to the end, for the guys.
+  _b_   ring for bobstay underneath.
+  _c_   hook for jib tack. (to be on top.)
+  _d_   hook for foresail tack. (to be on top.)
+]
+
+The hooks, _c_ and _d_, for the tacks cannot be lashed on till the
+sails are made and fitted, for as the jib must always swing clear of
+the foresail, and the foresail clear of the mainmast, it is best to try
+them before lashing on these hooks.
+
+These hooks are made of stout brass wire about 1½ in. long,
+flattened where to be lashed, and the end turned up with the pliers;
+thus--[Illustration]; the hook ¼ in. high is plenty, so that the sails
+may be as low down as possible.
+
+Next, with the pliers make a dozen hooks or so, this shape and
+size--[Illustration], of strong wire; and two of still stouter wire,
+this shape and size, say 1 in.--[Illustration]; the former are for the
+various standing and running gear, and the two latter for the foresail
+sheet and mainsheet. Make also a dozen or so of wood or bone slides to
+pattern--[Illustration]; one hook and one slide at least is required
+for every rope that has to be lengthened or shortened. Ladies’ bone
+meshes of suitable width and thickness make the best slides.
+
+The following diagram shows the application and use of these in all
+instances; say you are fitting the larboard mainbackstay (_f_ in
+diagram, p. 50), make fast your line to the ring (_g_, diagram, p. 60)
+at the mainmast head, pass the line through two holes of the slide,
+then through a hook which must be hooked on to the screw-eye (_f_,
+diagram, p. 50), back through the other hole in the slide, and make it
+fast there by a knot, only see the line is not too long or too short
+for convenient working. By this means, as you will soon see, any rope
+can be fitted that requires it, and can be lengthened or shortened in
+a moment without danger of slipping; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The best line for all the gear is suitable sizes of fishing-line. If
+the line kinks, _i.e._ gets into twists, put a yard or so at a time
+through the loop of the key in a door, cross it over itself once or
+twice, and rub it backwards and forwards, that takes all the turn out.
+
+The brass wire required may be these sizes--
+
+[Illustration:
+
+  for small hooks.
+  larger hooks, &c., &c.
+  foresheet horse.
+  mainsheet horse.
+]
+
+Now comes the mainboom (_d_, diagram, p. 50); it must be 36 in. long, a
+little thinner than the mainmast, and must be fitted thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Put a brass band, _a_, ½ in. wide, round the thicker end, drive a
+peg strongly into the hollow of the bamboo (the band is to stop it
+splitting), and screw in a screw-eye, as shown at _b_ above; then lash
+one ring on at _c_, say 15 in. from _a_, and another at _d_, both on
+the under side of the boom, this last crossways. These two rings are
+for the mainsheet _f_, and are most important; they must be well put
+on, the latter, _d_, about 12 in. from the outer end of the boom, so as
+to work well when the hook _e_ is hooked on to the horse for this sheet
+(viz. mainsheet) at the stern; this hook, _e_, is to be one of the
+large hooks (as shown p. 62).
+
+In order that the mainsheet should not have to be made too long,
+and thereby get foul of the stern, &c., when the boom swings over
+in running or reaching, it is best to have another sheet called the
+“running sheet,” to be fitted as follows:--
+
+Screw a screw-eye (a strong one) into the middle of the deck, just
+abaft the hatchway, lash a ring to the underside of the mainboom
+exactly over the screw-eye when the mainboom is amidships, fasten a
+strong piece of line to the screw-eye, put on a slide, then pass it
+through a hook, and fasten off to the slide, and hook into the ring
+on the mainboom; and let this sheet be just so long, that when the
+mainboom is out as far as it can go for the backstays, it will just
+take the strain off the backstays, on whichever side it happens to be,
+in running before the wind.
+
+By means of this running sheet, when the after mainsheet is unhooked,
+the mainboom can be kept in or let out to any required angle without
+the sheet fouling, and as the running sheet is fast to the ship only,
+it can be easily unhooked from the mainboom when unrigging. Still,
+this running sheet is not absolutely necessary, but is a very great
+convenience.
+
+To attach the mainboom to the mast, and allow it to move freely, get
+a strip of sheet brass ⅜ in. wide, just long enough to go _round the
+mast_ (close to the deck), and ⅜ in. over at each end; bore a hole at
+each end thus--[Illustration], and bend it round the mast. With the
+pincers nip the two ends close together, and so that the two holes are
+in a line thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Now put the screw-eye at the end of the mainboom between these two
+holes, fasten it there with a bit of wire turned round at each end;
+thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+No arrangement can be more perfect or stronger than this.
+
+The above operation has to be repeated for the _jaws_ or inner end of
+the gaff (_c_ in diagram, p. 50), but the ring must fit the head of the
+mast instead of the foot.
+
+The gaff must be 21½ in. long, and a little thinner than the mainboom;
+thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Lash one large ring at _a_, as close to the end as possible, two
+others, smaller, further out at _b_ and _c_, and one at _d_; all these
+rings must be on the top side of the gaff, _d_ an inch from the outer
+end of the gaff, for the sheet of the topsail to be hooked on (see
+frontispiece).
+
+The topmast is a taper bamboo, the lower end of which must fit tightly
+into the socket at the mainmast head, it must be 24 in. long outside
+the socket; lash two small rings at opposite sides, ½ in. from the
+head, put a knob on the top (called the truck), and the topmast is
+ready.
+
+The boom for the foresail (_i.e._ the spar that extends the foot of
+the sail) must be 20 in. long, that for the jib 25½ in. long, and both
+about the thickness of the gaff; here, however, use your judgment. Lash
+rings on for the sheets of each; each must have a sliding sheet (see
+drawing at end of this chapter) the same as for the mainsheet (p. 63);
+the jib sheet, however, requires no hook at the end, but must be made
+fast to the bowsprit, or, if greater precision is required, a horse may
+be made for the jib as for the other sails, and fastened in its proper
+place across the bowsprit, and to the guys as below;
+
+[Illustration]
+
+it may be made of thin brass wire, as follows, merely taking care that
+it is the right length, and that the horse is an inch or so less than
+the foresheet horse. It is made of four pieces of wire, the horse bent,
+as in diagram below, and the other pieces soldered to it;
+
+[Illustration]
+
+the guys may be passed through the loops a on their respective sides,
+and knots made to keep them in place; it will be perfectly self-acting,
+and never get out of place; the weather guy being always tight will
+always keep it nearly horizontal; it makes the jib, like the other
+sails, a good _driving_ as well as steering sail. Besides the above
+rings, another must be lashed on the outer end (all the rings on the
+boom are underneath) of each boom, _a_ and _b_, about 2½ in. from the
+end; thus--
+
+[Illustration]
+
+and must both be crosswise, as they are to secure these booms to their
+respective hooks (see _c_ and _d_ on bowsprit, p. 61; and also diagram,
+p. 70). This manner of fixing these sails is the best to keep them
+tight and flat when in use.
+
+This diagram shows the best mode of fixing the tacks of jib and
+foresail to the bowsprit; by this means, when the sail fills with the
+wind, it raises the after end of the boom, _depresses the fore end_,
+and thus tightens the luff of the sail and keeps it taut, which is
+very necessary. This diagram also shows how the jib and foresail swing
+clear of each other; also that the jib must not quite go to the end of
+the bowsprit, or it may be knocked off.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When all the rings are carefully and neatly lashed on, say with strong
+white thread,--lashing is the best, because it does not weaken the
+spars by making it necessary to bore holes in them,--varnish all the
+lashings with copal varnish, it will preserve them and prevent them
+slipping.
+
+Each maker must use a little judgment, and _understand what he is
+going to do before he does it_, and as in some instances the spars, or
+what not, may be a little too long, the best plan is for the maker to
+try each and everything before spoiling his work.
+
+[Illustration: _Enlarged Diagram of how to fix the sliding sheets for
+the respective booms, i.e. jib, fore, and main._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM.
+
+
+The speed and precision in the sailing of a model yacht, depend much
+more upon the sails than the hull, and the greatest care must be taken
+in making them.
+
+If pains are taken to carry out the following directions, an excellent
+suit of self-acting sails will be the result.
+
+The best material is either bleached or unbleached calico, 1 yd. wide,
+at 8_d._ per yd., and for a 2 ft. yacht 10_d._ per yd.; 3 yds. are
+sufficient for a 3 ft. boat. Steep the calico in clean water, and
+dry it across a line before using it. It is always better to cut the
+patterns of the sails out in paper, and try them in their places,
+before cutting the stuff.
+
+On the next page are given diagrams of the four sails for a cutter, and
+as all are cut on the cross, care must be taken when hemming them not
+to pucker or stretch the material; the after leach, _i.e._ the behind
+edge of all the sails, must be the selvedge, and must not be hemmed.
+In cutting out, allowance must be made for the hems, the measurements
+given being the actual sizes required.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The bottoms of the sails must be slightly rounded, as shown above, and
+a narrow tape must be sewn across, as shown by the dotted lines, to
+keep the sails from stretching.
+
+All the sewing for these sails can be done perfectly and expeditiously
+with any lock-stitch machine; it will sew them exactly even without
+puckering, and all that has to be done by hand is to fasten off the
+corners. I make all my own sails, and can, without hurry, make a full
+large suit for a 3 ft. boat in an evening.
+
+The selvedges are not to be hemmed, because the after leaches of all
+the sails should allow the wind to pass freely off. The sizes of the
+sails are marked on the diagrams distinctly; allow ½ in. extra on the
+outer leach of the mainsail, from _c_ to _d_ in diagram below, so that
+it may be slightly loose; this helps to steer materially, as the leach
+will shake before the body of the sail, if the vessel comes too much
+up in the wind, and so losing its power allow the ship to fall off and
+sail steadily.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This diagram shows how to cut the head of the mainsail; the dotted line
+shows how the sail would be if cut straight, therefore cut straight
+from _a_ to _b_, then slant off to _d_ at rather more than midway from
+_a_ to _c_. Make eight or ten eyelet holes at equal distances in the
+hoist of the mainsail, and fix a ring or grummet of twine in each hole
+to fit loosely round the mainmast; these are better than brass rings or
+wooden hoops, and weigh nothing.
+
+The lower outer corner of the mainsail should be double for 2 or 3 in.
+(see diagram, p. 76), to strengthen it; in fact, the corners of all the
+sails are none the worse for being so doubled.
+
+Now fix the sail to the mainboom and gaff; with a needle and strong
+thread is best: do not pull the sail too tight. The boom will then be
+2 in. or so too long; do not cut that off, it is useful to turn the
+ship with; leave also the extra length of the gaff, it looks better.
+The head of the sail must be laced or tied to the gaff at intervals of
+1 in., but on no account lace the foot of the sails to the booms; (for
+reason why see p. 29) the sail is then ready.
+
+In setting, _i.e._ putting on, the mainsail, when you have passed the
+foot of the mainmast through the jaws of the gaff and all the grummets,
+then before passing it through the jaws of the mainboom, put on an
+India-rubber ring, and then the mainboom; the ring must be pretty tight
+to the mast, and is very useful to keep the mainboom from slipping up.
+For position of this ring, see _k_ in diagram, p. 50.
+
+To hold the mainsail up, the inner ring on the gaff and lower
+after-ring on the mainmast head, must have stout twine passed through
+and made fast. This is called the throat-halyards.
+
+The gaff must be kept at its proper angle by means of twine made fast
+to the next ring on the gaff, passed through a hook, which hook into
+the upper after-ring at the mainmast head, and fasten off at the third
+ring on the gaff. This is called the peak-halyards. With these two,
+peak- and throat-halyards, you can easily fix the mainsail, so that
+when the mainboom _is half an inch above the deck at the mast_, and
+about an inch or so clear of the mainsheet horse at the stern, the sail
+shall set perfectly flat.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The annexed arrangement of the topmast stay is excellent; it keeps
+tight the luff of the jib, slightly slacks up the after leach, and is
+no trouble whatever to fix or unfix. It simply consists of putting a
+large ring (so that the hook can pass through) at the top point of the
+jib, pass the topmast stay-hook through, and hook it into a ring sewn
+on to the luff any distance down you think sufficient, as in diagram at
+side, _a_ topmast, _b_ topmast stay, _c_ mainsail, _d_ jib.
+
+The jib must have a piece of tape stitched from _a_ to _b_ on the
+double, ½ in. each side (see p. 76), and a ring sewn on at _b_. A hem
+only in the luff would be useless on account of the strain. The same
+must be done to the foresail; hem the bottoms, and leave the selvedges
+as they are.
+
+Lash them to their respective yards or booms (see diagram, pp. 69 and
+70). Of course the sail must be on the top of the boom, and the rings
+and sheets underneath; try them in their places; now lash on the hooks
+to the bowsprit (see p. 61), and you will see exactly where to put
+them; mind, the jib must swing just clear of both bowsprit and foresail
+(see frontispiece), and the foresail just clear of the mast and stem.
+Fit both these sails at the head with a hook and slide, the end of the
+line to be fast to the head of the sail, and the hook is to hook into
+the rings (respectively) at the mainmast head (see frontispiece), which
+shows exactly how all the sails set. The booms for these sails (jib and
+foresail) must be cut close, as there is no room to spare.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The topsail is 28 in. high, and reaches from the large ring in the jaws
+of the gaff (_a_, p. 66) to the topmast head, and before cutting it
+out the mainsail must be tried and set. The shape of this sail depends
+on the peak or angle of the gaff; and having made a pattern in paper
+to fit thus, make eyelet holes equidistant from _b_ to head of the
+mainmast, and put in rings of twine to fit the topmast loosely, as
+was done before with mainsail; fasten a hook to each of the corners,
+_a_, _b_, _c_, to hook into the respective rings already placed for
+them;--if the hooks are too short, use a piece of twine sewn to the
+sail, at _b_ and _c_ only, to lengthen them;--now sew a button at the
+edge of the curved bottom of the sail at _d_, and a loop to button on
+it on the head of the mainsail at _e_; this keeps the rounded foot
+always flat.
+
+The masts, sails, and gear being now all complete, try them on, and
+make any little alterations that may be necessary. If my directions
+have been intelligently followed, the sails will be exactly the sizes
+and shape of those in the lateral diagram, frontispiece.
+
+A strong, fine piece of line, fitted with a slide and hook, in the
+usual way, the end made fast to the topmast head ring forward, and the
+hook to be hooked into the ring at the jib head or top corner (see the
+diagram p. 80, and also frontispiece). This is to raise the foot of the
+jib, if required, and also to steady the topmast; this is a simple
+though not so effectual a topmast stay as that given, p. 80.
+
+The sails must be as tight and flat as possible when set, and the mast
+must be kept exactly upright by the backstays aft, and by the jib and
+foresail forward, the tape on the jib and foresail taking the place of
+stays or ropes used for that purpose in ordinary yachts, which are by
+this means dispensed with in models.
+
+Sail and mast-making is not yet done. Another suit of masts, spars, and
+sails, of exactly two-thirds the length, breadth, and height of these,
+must be made. It is called the _storm suit_, and is used when the wind
+is too strong for the first suit. Reefing is not practicable in a
+cutter.
+
+Some model yachtsmen have three or four suits of sails, &c.; I find
+two sufficient, because I don’t sail a yacht when there is scarcely a
+breath, and I don’t sail one when it blows a hurricane, and so I find
+two suits enough. Still if you race in matches, and mean winning, you
+must have both a larger and smaller suit, for you can never tell what
+the wind will be on the race day, and must be prepared.
+
+Now that all your sails are complete, paint the hull, and varnish the
+deck again; tip the end of the masts and booms the colour of your
+yacht, it looks ship-shape.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A pole of pine or deal, 6 ft. long, with a double hook at one end, is
+required to handle and turn the ship. Herewith drawing of the hook. One
+side is to push the ship out, and the other to pull it in or turn it.
+
+Lastly, two bags are needed, each to contain 1 lb. of shot, for
+shifting ballast to trim the ship, if you require her deeper aft or
+forward.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT.
+
+
+The action of the wind upon the sails of a vessel presses her down
+sideways and forwards, this causes the lee bow (viz. that on the
+side opposed to the wind) to be more immersed than the weather bow
+(or wind side bow), and the curve of the bow acting like a rudder or
+wedge, forces the vessel strongly up in the wind, in exact proportion
+to the strength of the wind. This is a simple mechanical law any one
+can understand after watching a model yacht for five minutes, and to
+counteract while utilizing it, I build a model yacht much deeper aft
+than forward, make the bowsprit very long, the jib and foresail large,
+and the mainsail narrow at the head and slack in the outer leach or
+edge. These arrangements, properly adjusted, nearly neutralize this
+tendency of the lee bow to force the ship to windward, and leave only
+just enough, so that by setting the sails in the way shown later, a
+model yacht steers itself perfectly. Great care must be taken not to
+overdo it, otherwise the vessel will run off the wind, and not steer
+herself at all.
+
+The part which the increased depth of keel aft plays in steering a
+model yacht is this; as the sails are very evenly balanced, and exert
+little more force at the stern than at the bow when _the vessel is
+upright in the water_; yet even then there is always the tendency
+more or less to come up in the wind, and as the bow is not so deep as
+the stern, the lateral pressure of all the sails forces the vessel
+sideways (called leeway),--she makes more _leeway forward than aft_,
+and thus this particular arrangement helps to make her steer herself.
+Necessarily, when the wind blows strongly it is of very great use, and
+enables increased length of bowsprit to be dispensed with: too long a
+bowsprit is a great drawback, it dips in the water, and is difficult to
+fasten firmly.
+
+Again, a model vessel being well up by the stem, and deep aft,
+possesses another power of self-steering, viz. when the wind presses
+her down forward (when on the wind), it lightens her aft; this, of
+course, permits her to gripe more to windward, as she holds more
+water forward and less aft, but if she comes up too much, so as to
+relieve the mainsail of a great part of its pressure, the opposite
+action results, the bow is lightened and the stern depressed exactly
+in proportion, so that under all circumstances the vessel possesses a
+self-acting power to steer herself.
+
+Now, as just shown, a model yacht, partly by the action of the sails
+(particularly the mainsail), and partly by the action of the lee bow,
+will always keep close to the wind,--in fact, too close; therefore,
+to make her steer herself, the jib and foresail are kept in a little
+closer (_i.e._ more in a parallel line with the keel) than the
+mainsail. So if the vessel comes too close to the wind, first the
+outer leach of the mainsail loses its power and shakes, and if this
+does not suffice, _as it should_, to make her fall off again, the
+whole mainsail will shake, and as the jib and foresail must keep full,
+the ship pays off till the mainsail fills again. So an equilibrium is
+attained, and in a steady wind, on the sea for instance, the yacht
+would sail on in the same direction as if on rails, till the sails
+dropped in pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This diagram gives the disposition of the booms by means of their
+respective sheets. To make a yacht sail full and by, _i.e._ close to
+the wind, and neither run off or shake, the jib is nearly parallel to
+the bowsprit, the foresail less so, and the mainsail least of all,
+and clearly shows the principle, for it is evident that if the vessel
+turned more towards the wind, the mainsail would shake, and the jib and
+foresail keeping still full, would turn the ship back to her course
+again, viz. “full and by.” On the other hand, she cannot run off the
+wind, because the mainsail, well full as it must be, if she ran off,
+would bring her up again instantly.
+
+I presume every intelligent person understands that a vessel cannot
+sail with her head to the wind (all the sails must shake, and she would
+go astern), and few vessels can sail nearer, if so near, as at an
+angle of 45° to the wind. In the next diagram will be shown the way to
+sail the vessel in any _possible_ direction, and how the booms must be
+disposed, and the rudder or rudders and ballast bags used to accomplish
+it.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The wind is supposed to be blowing in the direction the arrow flies,
+and by holding this diagram with the arrow towards the point the wind
+is blowing from, your vessel can be made to sail in every direction
+there indicated.
+
+No vessel can head nearer towards the wind shown by the arrow, than _a_
+and _aa_, one being on the larboard, the other on the starboard tack
+(as it is called), _i.e._ about 45°, four points of a compass, or half
+a right angle.
+
+The vessel at _a_ is therefore sailing close to the wind on the
+larboard tack, with the sails disposed for that purpose, as already
+shown (p. 90); to put her on the other tack, simply turn her in the
+direction _aa_, head to wind; the sails, being self-acting, will go
+over of themselves by the force of the wind, and she will continue on
+that tack till stopped or turned.
+
+To sail her as at _b_, ease off the mainsheet till the mainboom is
+at an angle of 45° (this is called wind abeam) to the keel of the
+ship, and she will do so; it is seldom necessary to touch the jib or
+foresheets, leave those sails as at _a_. To sail her as at _bb_, turn
+her round, head to wind, and the sails take the same place on the other
+side, and that is done.
+
+To sail as at _c_, let go the mainsheet altogether; if the wind is not
+too strong, she will do so, but if it is too strong, a light rudder,
+self-acting, of about ¼ lb. weight must be made and used, and that will
+do it. Turn her round as before, head to wind, if you wish to sail her
+as at _cc_. The rule is simple enough: if the sails are set, and propel
+her in a given direction on the one tack, she will, if turned, sail in
+the corresponding direction on the other tack.
+
+To run before the wind at _d_, with the mainsheet let go, hook on the
+heavy rudder, and she will run more or less true before the wind,
+according to the perfection with which the ship is built and the rudder
+balanced. The cause is this: if the vessel turns, say to starboard, the
+wind necessarily presses her over to larboard, the self-acting rudder
+(being exactly upright when the ship is upright) falls over to larboard
+also, and instantly puts her straight again; the exact opposite takes
+place should she turn to larboard, and so _she must sail straight
+before the wind_.
+
+When the wind is very light, it will sometimes occur, that the vessel
+on account of the large jib and foresail, will run off the wind; if
+so, put one or two of the bags of shot inside in her bows, and most
+likely that will remedy it; if not, change the angles of the jib and
+foresails, _i.e._ let the jib sheet out more, and haul the foresheet in
+as much as the jib was, so that you would then be steering more by the
+foresail than by the jib. This is sure to succeed.
+
+Before all these manœuvres can be successfully performed, some little
+practice is necessary, of course; ships, like everything else, have
+little ways of their own, and must be studied.
+
+The topsail must always be kept set, and needs no touching after being
+once set, for though of no great use as a propelling sail, save off the
+wind, it is so as a steadying sail, being so lofty. My experience has
+taught me never to dispense with it.
+
+To prove the certainty with which a model yacht must sail in the
+direction intended, you can, as an experiment, put the vessel’s head in
+the water in any direction you please, and she will immediately take
+the _course for which the sails are set_, no matter how you put her in
+the water. For instance, place her in the water, _head to wind_, with
+the mainsheet let go, and the heavy rudder on, _i.e._ to sail as at _d_
+(p. 92), and she will of her own account turn round and run before the
+wind, an operation which, to those not in the secret, seems like magic.
+
+Rigged in the way I have described, with every part of the standing and
+running rigging being made fast by hooks and slides, a cutter can be
+completely unrigged in one minute, and rigged again in three minutes:
+I have done it in these times easily. This is a very great advantage;
+there are no knots to make, no time is lost, and yet the rigging is as
+strong and as perfect as possible, and never fails till worn out.
+
+I hope I have now made all clear, and that my readers may be enabled
+to build ships, and rig them to sail with as much satisfaction to
+themselves as mine are to me.
+
+Model yachts can be rigged to sail and steer well, as schooners,
+luggers, &c., and I have vessels rigged in those ways. Should this
+treatise meet with success, I purpose writing a second, dealing with
+this subject.
+
+
+
+
+MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS.
+
+
+Block of wood: white pine or soft deal; at almost any wood-yard, and
+particularly at those in the neighbourhood of the docks; cost for a 2
+ft. boat, 2_s._ 6_d._, for a 3 ft., about 10_s._
+
+Masts, booms, &c., of bamboo canes, at florists, who sell cheap
+bamboos for about 8_d._ per dozen for gardening purposes; the best
+can be selected, and they will serve for masts, all the spars of a 2
+ft. boat, and for booms, gaffs, and topmasts of 3 ft. boats. Bamboos
+for the mast, bowsprit, and mainboom of 3 ft. boats can be got at
+fishing-tackle shops and toy shops; both sell cheap bamboo fishing-rods
+at about 3_d._ each. They can be easily selected of the required
+thickness and length. Excellent bamboo canes for booms, gaffs, and
+topmasts can also be obtained at umbrella shops and stick shops, but
+they cost more--1_d._, 2_d._, or 3_d._, and even 6_d._ each.
+
+Twine, white line, &c., for standing and running rigging, can be had at
+fishing-tackle or cord and twine shops.
+
+Calico and tape at any linendrapers.
+
+Lead at any plumber’s shop, 2_d._ or 3_d._ per lb.
+
+Paint and copal at any oilman’s. Paint 6_d._ or 8_d._ per lb. Copal
+varnish about 1_s._ per pint; 3_d._ worth is enough for a 3 ft. boat.
+
+Brass and copper wire at most ironmongers, as also screw-eyes of any
+size. If the two former cannot be readily obtained, Messrs. Jackson and
+Sons, 17, Sun Street, Finsbury, keep every size in brass and copper
+wire, and every thickness in brass and copper sheets; all these are
+sold by weight.
+
+All sizes of rings can be had at fishing-tackle shops. 1_d._ or 2_d._
+per dozen.
+
+Ferrules or bands for tipping the ends of spars to prevent them
+splitting, can be got at fishing-tackle shops, and the amateur builder
+can file off any length required; they are very cheap. For small bands,
+pipe mounts are excellent, very light and thin, and easily cut to any
+length. Most tobacconists keep them in all sizes, 1_d._ or 2_d._ each.
+
+If the boat builder cannot get or make bands, lash or bind the ends of
+the spars neatly and strongly with good white thread, and then paint
+it well with copal. It will answer every purpose, but does not look so
+neat and trim.
+
+Lastly, slides can be made of any hard wood as well as of bone, and the
+requisite holes bored with a bradawl, and then seared with a red-hot
+skewer.
+
+
+
+
+GLOSSARY.
+
+
+    ABAFT, AFT, towards the stern.
+
+    AMIDSHIPS, middle of a ship or anything.
+
+    BACKSTAY, ropes which support the mast sideways and backwards.
+
+    BEAM, breadth of a vessel, also the support of the deck.
+
+    BOARD, the distance sailed on one tack.
+
+    BOBSTAY, the rope that keeps the bowsprit down; reaches from
+    end of bowsprit to cutwater.
+
+    BOOM, any spar used to extend the foot of a sail.
+
+    BOW, front part of a vessel.
+
+    BOWSPRIT, spar projecting in front of a vessel to set the jibs
+    on.
+
+    BULWARKS, the wooden railings round the deck of a ship.
+
+    CHOCK, piece of wood to hold anything firmly.
+
+    CLOSE, a vessel being as near the direction of the wind as she
+    can go without shaking.
+
+    COUNTER, the projection of the stem.
+
+    CUTWATER, the sharp part of the bow.
+
+    DECK, the covering of the ship to keep the water out, &c.
+
+    DRAW, a ship draws so much water, _i.e._ it is so many feet in
+    the water.
+
+    ENTRANCE, the forward part of the bottom of a vessel, tapered
+    off to the cutwater, so as to cleave the water.
+
+    FALL OFF, when a vessel turns from the direction of the wind.
+
+    FOOT, bottom of a mast or sail.
+
+    FORE AND AFT, any sail which does not cross the mast.
+
+    FORESAIL, sail in forepart of a ship.
+
+    FORWARD, fore part of a ship.
+
+    FULL, when the sails are distended by the wind.
+
+    FULL AND BY, close to the wind yet not shaking. _See_ CLOSE.
+
+    GAFF, the spar which supports the head of a fore and aft sail.
+
+    GRUMMET, a ring made of rope.
+
+    GUDGEON, a sort of eye-bolt for the rudder to work on.
+
+    GUNWALE, top of the side of a ship on which the deck is
+    fastened.
+
+    GUY, rope to keep and secure the bowsprit, &c., laterally.
+
+    HALYARDS, ropes used to hoist the sails.
+
+    HATCHWAY, openings in the deck of a ship.
+
+    HEAD, top of a mast or sail.
+
+    HOIST, height a sail is pulled up.
+
+    HOLD, the inside of a ship.
+
+    HORSE, long bars of iron on which the sheets of sails work.
+
+    HULL, body of a ship.
+
+    JAWS, any arrangement to secure a gaff or boom to a mast, and
+    allow it to swing from side to side, &c.
+
+    JIB, a three-cornered sail in front of a ship.
+
+    KEEL, the centre of the bottom of a ship.
+
+    LACED, tied in a certain way.
+
+    LARBOARD, left.
+
+    LEACH, edge of a sail, generally the side.
+
+    LEE, side of a vessel farthest from that from which the wind
+    blows.
+
+    LEE-WAY, the side-way motion of a ship caused by the side
+    pressure of the wind.
+
+    LUFF, to go closer to the wind.
+
+    LUFF (of a sail), edge of a sail nearest the wind.
+
+    MAIN-HALYARDS, ropes to hoist the mainsail.
+
+    MAINMAST, the lower mast in a cutter.
+
+    MAINSHEET, the rope or gear to secure and regulate the after
+    lower corner of the mainsail.
+
+    NEAR, same as close. _See_ CLOSE.
+
+    OFF. _See_ FALL OFF.
+
+    OVERALL, from stem to stern.
+
+    PAY OFF. _See_ FALL OFF.
+
+    PEAK, the angular head of the mainsail.
+
+    PEAK-HALYARDS, ropes to hoist the outer end of the gaff.
+
+    QUARTERS, both sides of a ship close to the stern.
+
+    REACHING, sailing with the wind abeam or nearly so.
+
+    REEFING, reducing the sails by tying them up smaller.
+
+    RUN, the after part of the bottom of a vessel, tapered off to
+    the sternpost, so as to leave the water freely.
+
+    RUNNING, sailing with the wind astern or nearly so.
+
+    RUNNING GEAR, any ropes used for hoisting the sails or yards.
+
+    SELVEDGE, the even edge of linen, canvas, &c.
+
+    SHAKE, when the sails shake in the wind and so lose their power.
+
+    SHEER, slope of a vessel downwards to midships from stem and
+    stern.
+
+    SHEET, ropes used to secure and regulate lower after corner of
+    sails.
+
+    STANDING GEAR, any fixed ropes, as backstays, &c.
+
+    STARBOARD, right side.
+
+    STAY, ropes used to support the masts forward only.
+
+    STEM. _See_ CUTWATER.
+
+    STEP, socket for heel of mast, &c.
+
+    STERN, the after part of a vessel.
+
+    STERNPOST, end of keel and run, upon which the rudder is fixed.
+
+    TACK, forward lower corner of a sail.
+
+    TACK, to make a zigzag course so as to get to windward.
+
+    TAUT, tight.
+
+    TOPMAST, the second mast from the deck.
+
+    WATERLINE, line of the water on the side, &c., of a ship,
+    showing how deep she is in the water.
+
+    WEATHER, side of a vessel, &c., nearest the wind.
+
+    WINDWARD, in direction of the wind, the side from which the
+    wind blows.
+
+
+
+
+CONTESTS ON THE OPEN SEA BETWEEN CUTTERS “GOLDEN CREST” AND “STORM
+ALONG.”
+
+
+_1st Trial._ Strong breeze, rough sea, storm sails, foot of sails laced
+to booms; 1½ miles on each tack. “Storm Along” beat on each tack, about
+50 yds. to windward.
+
+_2nd Trial._ Large suits, light breeze and sea; 1½ miles on each tack.
+“Storm Along,” all sails laced to booms; “Golden Crest,” mainsail free
+and jib laced. “Storm Along” led a few yards once; “Golden Crest” beat,
+20 yds. in 2 boards.
+
+_3rd Trial._ Sails as in 2nd Trial, moderate breeze and sea; 2 boards,
+1½ miles each. “Golden Crest” beat, 20 yds. on each.
+
+_4th Trial._ Sails as above, moderate breeze and sea, _interchanged
+sails_. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile on each tack of 1 mile length each.
+
+_5th Trial._ Moderate breeze and sea, “Storm Along” own sails all free
+from booms, and “Golden Crest” all laced; 2 boards of 1 mile each.
+“Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile to windward. x last board of 1 mile; “Golden
+Crest,” all sails free from booms, _i.e._ both vessels own sails and
+alike. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile dead to windward.
+
+_6th Trial._ Gentle breeze and sea, full suits and each their own.
+“Storm Along” beat, 40 yds. to windward in ½ mile board. “Golden Crest”
+headreached a little, this wind and sea showing her best points.
+
+
+
+
+TIME TABLE OF TWO MODEL YACHT REGATTAS.
+
+
+Course once up and down pond, 259 yds. long, 30 yds. wide; length of
+pond being E. and W.
+
+4 ft. cutters. Wind strong, E. by S. 4 vessels in each heat.
+
+  +--------+--------+---------+-----------+------+
+  |  Heat  | Start. |   Run.  | Beat back.| Time.|
+  +--------+--------+---------+-----------+------+
+  |        | H.  M. | H.   M. |   H.  M.  |  M.  |
+  |1st     | 4   14 | 4   16¾ |   4  23½  |  9½  |
+  |2nd     | 4   33 | 4   36  |   4  42¾  |  9¾  |
+  |3rd     | 4   50 | 4   53  |   4  59   |  9   |
+  |Loser’s | 5    4 | 5    7  |   5  14¼  | 10¼  |
+  |Final   | 5   20 | 5   23¼ |   5  31   | 11   |
+  +--------+--------+---------+-----------+------+
+
+In this race, final heat, the three first winners fouled, and the
+winner of loser’s heat won.
+
+3 ft. cutters. Wind strong, W. by S. Course as above.
+
+  +---------+----------+----------+----------+------+
+  |  Heat   |  Start.  |   Run.   |Beat back.| Time.|
+  +---------+----------+----------+----------+------+
+  |         |H.  M.  S.|H.  M.  S.|H.  M.  S.|M.  S.|
+  |1st      |5   14  50|5   18  30|5   26  23|11  33|
+  |2nd      |5   35  30|5   39   8|5   46  40|11  10|
+  |3rd      |6    3   5|6    6  40|6   16   5|13   0|
+  |Loser’s  |6   23   5|6   26  30|6   36  10|13   5|
+  |Final    |6   43  52|6   47  25|6   54  50|10  58|
+  +---------+----------+----------+----------+------+
+
+This last race won by 6 in. only.
+
+By examining above table, it appears to novices almost incredible that
+such precision can be attained in model yacht sailing. All the heats
+were won by a few feet only, and some by inches.
+
+
+
+
+BEST WATERS FOR SAILING MODEL YACHTS.
+
+
+The best ponds for sailing model yachts in London are: (1) Victoria
+Park Pond, but only when the wind is E. or W. (2) Round Pond,
+Kensington, in any winds, all sides of this pond being clear of trees.
+(3) Serpentine, in any wind.
+
+Hampstead and Highgate ponds are also available, but have muddy edges,
+and seldom a true wind on account of the high banks.
+
+There are also good ponds on Clapham Common and Peckham Rye.
+
+
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE, LONDON.
+
+
+
+
+BOOKS OF INSTRUCTION AND AMUSEMENT.
+
+
+_THE BOY’S OWN TOY MAKER_:
+
+A Practical Illustrated Guide to the useful employment of Leisure
+Hours. By E. LANDELS. With 200 Cuts. Ninth Edition. Price 2_s._ 6_d._
+
+    “A new and valuable form of endless
+    amusement.”--_Nonconformist._
+
+    “We recommend it to all who have children to be instructed and
+    amused.”--_Economist._
+
+
+_THE GIRL’S OWN TOY MAKER_
+
+AND BOOK OF RECREATION.
+
+By E. and A. LANDELS. With 200 Illustrations. New Edition. The Eleventh
+Thousand. Just ready. Price 2_s._ 6_d._
+
+    “Contains a large number of engravings, and gives instruction,
+    with many examples, how to make Paper Toys, &c., &c., in which
+    young people especially take interest.”--_Leeds Mercury._
+
+    “Within the past few years great advancement has been made
+    in the educational system it is meant to encourage, and it
+    is, therefore, all the more likely to obtain a still wider
+    circulation.”--_Edinburgh Daily Review._
+
+    “Capital little volume ... will be found a rare prize for
+    families.”--_City Press._
+
+    “We can easily imagine the delight with which a family of
+    children would welcome this interesting work.”--_Scholastic
+    World._
+
+
+THE ILLUSTRATED
+
+_PAPER MODEL MAKER_;
+
+Containing Twelve Subjects and Practical Diagrams for their
+Construction, in an Envelope. Price 2_s._
+
+
+  GRIFFITH & FARRAN,
+  WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.
+  E. P. DUTTON & CO., NEW YORK.
+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes.
+
+Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=.
+Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
+
+Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected
+silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised.
+A half-title and reiterations of chapter titles have been discarded.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***
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+      Model yachts and model yacht sailing | Project Gutenberg
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+</head>
+
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a><a id="Page_4"></a><a id="Page_5"></a><a id="Page_6"></a><a id="Page_7"></a>7</span></p>
+
+
+<h1>
+MODEL YACHTS<br>
+AND MODEL YACHT SAILING.
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center">
+  <i>HOW TO BUILD, RIG, AND SAIL<br>
+  A SELF-ACTING MODEL YACHT.</i><br>
+  <br>
+  <span class="xsm">BY</span><br>
+  JAMES E. WALTON, V.M.Y.C.<br>
+  <br>
+  <br>
+  <span class="sm">ILLUSTRATED WITH FIFTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.</span><br>
+  </p>
+
+  <figure class="figcenter illowe5" id="p007">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p007.jpg" alt="" data-role="presentation">
+</figure>
+
+<p class="center">
+  GRIFFITH AND FARRAN,<br>
+  <span class="xsm">SUCCESSORS TO NEWBERY AND HARRIS,</span><br>
+  <span class="sm">WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.<br>
+  E. P. DUTTON AND CO., NEW YORK.<br>
+  MDCCCLXXX.</span><br>
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span>  <br>
+  <i><span class="xsm">The rights of Translation and of Reproduction are reserved.</span></i>
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<figure class="figcenter illowe40" id="p006">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p006.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption>
+
+ <span class="smcap">Lateral View of 3 ft. Yacht</span> (⅔ inch to the foot).<br>
+
+    <span class="sm"><i>a a</i> mainsail. <i>b b</i> topsail. <i>c c</i>
+    foresail. <i>d d</i> jib. <i>a</i> mainmast. <i>b</i>
+    topmast. <i>c</i> bowsprit. <i>d</i> main boom. <i>e</i>
+    gaff. <i>f</i> foresail boom. <i>g</i> jib boom. <i>h</i>
+    bobstay. <i>i</i> mainrigging (port or left side). <i>j</i>
+    hull. <i>k</i> false keel. <i>l</i> lead keel. <i>m</i>
+    counter. <i>n</i> sternpost. <i>o</i> stem. <i>p</i>
+    self-acting rudder, only used when running.</span><br>
+
+    <i>For deck outline and measurement of this Model “Diana” Cutter, see <a href="#p019">diagram 8, p. 19.</a></i>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">
+    CONTENTS.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<table class="autotable3">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Preface</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#PREFACE">11</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Introduction</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#INTRODUCTION">15</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+I.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">Principles of Self-Acting Model Yacht Building</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_I">21</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+II.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">How to Make the Hull</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_II">31</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+III.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">How to Make Deck Fittings, Rudder, &amp;c.</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_III">47</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+IV.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">How to Fit Masts, Standing and Running Gear, &amp;c.</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">57</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+V.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">How to Make the Sails and Set them</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_V">73</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr vtop">
+VI.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+<span class="smcap">How to Sail and Steer a Model Yacht</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">85</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Materials for Model Ships</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_MODEL_SHIPS">97</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Glossary</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#GLOSSARY">100</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Model Yacht Contests on the Sea</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">102</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Tables of Model Yacht Regattas</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT">103</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" colspan="2">
+<span class="smcap">Waters in London for Model Yacht Sailing</span>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+<a href="#BEST_WATERS_FOR_SAILING_MODEL_YACHTS">104</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a><a id="Page_11"></a>11</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">
+    PREFACE.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>There are not many open-air amusements which afford
+more genuine enjoyment to old and young than Model
+Yacht Sailing; if practised in a properly scientific
+manner it resembles a game of croquet, in which
+the water is the lawn, the wind the mallet, and the
+ships the balls; and the most skilful yachtsman is
+as certain of winning his match as is the most skilful
+croquet player.</p>
+
+<p>Very few English boys can be found who have not
+taken, or do not take an interest in model ships, and
+it is very remarkable, as well as no little disgrace to
+us as a maritime nation, to note the utterly purposeless
+way in which nearly all boys or men sail their
+model vessels; whereas with the requisite knowledge,
+a self-acting model yacht is as much under the control
+of the manager as if he were actually on board:
+further still, matches can be sailed in which the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>results are as certain as are those of the matches of
+ordinary yachts, as may be seen in the tables of
+actual races at the end of this work (see <a href="#TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT">p. 103</a>).</p>
+
+<p>A sailor who thoroughly understands the management
+of a ship or boat, <i>when he is on board</i>, <i>steers
+with a rudder</i>, and <i>reduces</i>, <i>augments</i>, or <i>disposes</i> the
+sails at his will, would find this knowledge of very
+secondary importance if he applied it, <i>without great
+modifications</i>, to sail a model yacht. To give one
+instance only, <i>model yachts require no fixed rudder</i>,
+in fact, a fixed rudder is such an incumbrance, and so
+great a bar to perfect action, that it must be dispensed
+with altogether. This quite upsets the old adage of a
+“ship without a rudder,” and reverses it; our model
+ships need no rudder—steer better without, save in
+one way.</p>
+
+<p>A rudder is used at times on model yachts, as will
+be shown in its place, but it must be removed when
+it has done its work.</p>
+
+<p>The sails and hulls of model yachts are also very different
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span>to those of full-sized yachts. They are constructed
+with the <i>view to being self-acting</i>, and as a model yacht
+<i>must steer itself</i>, this result can only be obtained by
+using the sails both for <i>propelling and steering</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Model yachts, as usually made, may be very beautiful
+to look at, but, alas! they will not sail, or will not sail
+well, they are not self-acting in any sense, they are
+generally actual reproductions in miniature of celebrated
+large yachts, and as these latter are sailed and
+steered by men on board, it is very certain their
+miniature copies will not sail without similar guidance.</p>
+
+<p>I have made these remarks to show that model self-acting
+yachts cannot be made and sailed without the
+requisite knowledge and experience, and as there is no
+book to be got which gives full particulars on the
+subject, it is believed that this, which contains
+the result of many years’ model yacht making and
+sailing, will supply an almost national want, and enable
+any ordinarily intelligent boy to construct, rig, and sail
+a model yacht with perfect success.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span></p>
+
+<p>As a proof of the pains that have been taken to
+ascertain the best hull and rig for a self-acting yacht,
+I may say that five yachts have been made, all of the
+same length, but each of different beam, rig, &amp;c., commencing
+with very narrow beam, and increasing beam,
+&amp;c., with each model, till the best proportion between
+length and beam became known,—necessarily with each
+increase of beam <i>more sail could be carried</i>, and also
+more <i>ballast in lead keel</i> could be used,—and in order
+that the experiments should be crucial and decisive, a
+final vessel was constructed of the same measurement as
+the best of those before mentioned, and their sails were
+made interchangeable, thus deciding beyond doubt
+which vessel was best, after many trials on the open
+sea with a true wind.</p>
+
+<p>It is doubtful if such experiments were ever made
+before (tables of them will be seen at <a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">p. 102</a>), and the
+author, therefore, feels assured that his readers may
+have every confidence in the instruction here given.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">
+    INTRODUCTION.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The first thing necessary for non-nautical yachtsmen
+is to know the names of the different sails, parts of the
+vessel, &amp;c., &amp;c., and for this purpose the diagram
+forming the frontispiece will be useful; a glossary,
+also, is added at the end of the work.</p>
+
+<p>The frontispiece is an exact outline drawing of a
+model self-acting yacht, of 3-feet water-line, and 39 in.
+over all; the diagram is drawn in the proportion of
+⅔ in. to the foot, and if any reader desires to make a
+smaller boat, say 30 in., all that need be done is to
+make everything ⅙ smaller, and for a 2 ft. boat ⅓
+smaller; as the keel, however, would have to be calculated
+by weight, and the above rule would not apply,
+I give the weight in lbs.; a 3 ft. boat requires
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>20 lbs., a 2 ft. 6 in. boat 10 or 11 lbs., and a 24 in.
+boat 6 lbs. or nearly.</p>
+
+<p>I will note here that it is better to make a vessel
+scooped out, &amp;c., from the solid block, than to build
+one of small planks; 1st, it is easier (it takes a good
+carpenter to make one of planks), it can be altered
+outside if not scooped out too thin at first, it never
+<i>leaks</i>, and it never comes to pieces; and, lastly, it does
+not take half the time to repaint, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="p017" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p017.jpg" alt="A diagram showing comparative sizes and shapes of various models">
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a><a id="Page_19"></a>19</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp52" id="p019" style="max-width: 75.0em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p019.jpg" alt="A diagram showing comparative sizes and shapes of various models">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a><a id="Page_21"></a><a id="Page_22"></a><a id="Page_23"></a>23</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">
+    CHAPTER I.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">PRINCIPLES OF MODEL YACHT BUILDING.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>In order to ascertain the best lines, <i>i.e.</i> shape, for
+progression through the water, Nature herself may,
+without hesitation, be taken as the best teacher, and
+amongst fast-moving fishes a mackerel is one of the
+fastest and most graceful.</p>
+
+<p>I procured a mackerel, carefully measured and drew
+it to scale (see <a href="#p017">p. 17</a>, diagrams 1 and 2), first taking the
+shape back upwards, and next sideways, and in harmony
+with these lines all the vessels mentioned in this work
+are constructed.</p>
+
+<p>On looking at the diagram of the mackerel it is at
+once apparent that a clean run is more important than a
+sharp entrance, for the drawing shows the fish to be
+much fuller in the fore than in the after part; bearing
+this in mind, and having drawn the mackerel in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span>divisions of inches, I took the forward eleven divisions
+as a model for the deck and general lines of my vessels—first,
+so far as regards “<i>going through the water</i>;”
+secondly, because I should thus get “<i>the widest part
+or beam amidships</i>,” and as near the centre of motion
+and gravity as possible.</p>
+
+<p>With these ideas in my mind I constructed “Seashell”
+(see diagram 3, <a href="#p017">p. 17</a>), with the actual measurements
+there stated (as is the case on all the drawings).
+I rigged her as a schooner; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p024">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p024.jpg" alt="sketch of rigged schooner">
+</figure>
+
+<p>She sailed well and steadily, and could be made to go
+in any direction in a light breeze, but her <i>narrow beam
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>and lightness</i>, with only 3 lbs. keel, rendered her useless
+in a stiff breeze, except when she was running away
+from it.</p>
+
+<p>I next built “Mermaid” (see diagram 4), with nearly
+2 in. more beam, and exactly to the measurement of the
+mackerel sideways, simply increasing each line in
+proportion as the ship was larger than the fish; all
+the lines of the hull being of course in harmony with
+the increased beam, she had 5 lbs. lead keel, and
+was rigged as a cutter (see “Diana” for cutter rig,
+frontispiece), schooner, or lugger at pleasure. I found
+she beat “Seashell” considerably in any wind, but
+especially in strong winds, sailing under any of the
+above-mentioned sails.</p>
+
+<p>Learning by this that increased beam and weight
+meant more power, more sail, and greater speed, I then
+made “Silver Spray” (see diagram 5), with 8 lbs. keel,
+and nearly 2 in. more beam than “Mermaid,” and in
+this vessel I reached about the proportional beam that
+most model yacht builders have adopted, viz. 3½ beams
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>to the length. I rigged her as a cutter only, and
+she easily beat “Mermaid” every way. I also discovered
+that cutter rig was best, the boats under this
+rig sailing faster and truer, and are more quickly
+and expeditiously managed; at the same time I discarded
+fixed rudders for reasons stated before.</p>
+
+<p>With this model, “Silver Spray,” I had reached a
+point at which I stuck for some time; I could hardly
+think still increased beam or depth would be an advantage,
+yet I wished to progress, and try something
+I would.</p>
+
+<p>I thought the matter over carefully, and at last
+arrived at the following conclusions: A fish goes
+<i>through the water only, but a ship goes through and
+over</i>. Now a duck goes over the water; how would a
+vessel built upon a combination of fish and duck
+succeed?</p>
+
+<p>I got a duck, took a plaster cast of his under side,
+noticed the way ducks got over the water, the resistance
+of the water and the ripples and wake caused by the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>duck’s motion over the water, and I decided to make
+a ship to go <i>over the water rather than through it</i>;
+the top of the <i>water is alive</i>, and easily displaced in
+any direction save downwards, the deeper one goes
+the stiller it is, and the more difficult to displace. I
+considered, therefore, if I built a vessel of greater beam,
+very light draught of water, with a lead keel well
+below the bottom, I should get greatly increased power
+and speed, for I felt satisfied that the light draught and
+larger sails more than compensated for a wider beam.</p>
+
+<p>It stands also to reason that a vessel of a wide
+beam does <i>not heel over to leeward</i> so much as one
+of a narrower beam, and it results from that—1st, the
+sails being more perpendicular to the wind, have more
+power to propel; and 2nd, the keel being also more
+“up and down,” prevents her making so much leeway.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt there is a limit to breadth of beam, and
+although I have not yet fully experimented, I am
+inclined to think that the limit is reached in “Diana,”
+of three beams to the length.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span></p>
+
+<p>On this I built “Golden Crest” (see diagram 6,
+<a href="#p019">p. 19</a>), with these qualities, beam 10⅓ in., or ⅓ her
+length exactly, and only a bare 4 in. depth, and 10 lbs.
+lead keel; I fitted her with sails as a cutter, making
+them larger than those of “Silver Spray,” in proportion
+to her increased beam and ballast (in lead keel), and
+she more than fulfilled my utmost expectations, for she
+beat all the three former models out and out, both in
+speed and steadiness.</p>
+
+<p>Still, however, I had not quite finished my experiments,
+for I remarked that in strong winds “Golden
+Crest,” on account of her low freeboard (<i>i.e.</i> little height
+out of the water), was sometimes overpowered sooner
+than I thought she ought to be, and I determined to
+build another vessel on the same lines and of the same
+size exactly, but with 1 in. deeper hold; this I did
+in “Storm Along” (see diagram 7, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>), the only
+difference between this and “Golden Crest” being the
+1 in. extra depth of hold; lead keel, sails, masts,
+&amp;c., &amp;c., all were exactly the same.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span></p>
+
+<p>Now, when Greek meets Greek, then comes the tug
+of war. So it was here, and it was only after numberless
+trials in all winds, and finally by actually
+interchanging their sails, that “Storm Along” proved
+the winner; the reason this was difficult to establish
+was that at first I only sailed <i>each with its own
+sails</i>; when the wind was moderate and sea smooth,
+“Golden Crest” won a little; on the other hand, with
+strong breezes and sea on, “Storm Along” won. I
+interchanged their sails, and “Storm Along” won
+considerably always. I then found out that I had
+happened to lace the feet of the sails of “Storm
+Along” to their booms, but it never struck me such a
+trifle would interfere much with the sailing of a model:
+I was mistaken, however, for I found whichever had the
+laced sails was sure to lose, and “Golden Crest” lost
+most; mind, all these experiments were conducted on
+the open sea for hours, with true winds and true sea
+(the most perfect test). I cut the sails loose, and at once
+and ever after, “Storm Along” proved invariably the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>victor; in light winds by very, very little, but in strong
+winds the greater buoyancy, and therefore lateral power,
+of “Storm Along” always carried the day.</p>
+
+<p>With all these ships there are <i>no bulwarks</i>, no
+ornaments, or projections of any kind, nothing but the
+gear, &amp;c., necessary to set the sails and work them;
+everything else is not only useless, but mischievous
+lumber.</p>
+
+<p>It may be remarked that the whole of those boats
+when running before the wind, with self-acting lead
+rudders, run at very nearly the <i>same speed</i>, length to a
+great extent governing speed; but on turning to windward,
+each falls into its place, as assigned to it in the
+foregoing pages.</p>
+
+<p>I have not yet tried whether greater beam still
+than ⅓ the length is an improvement; I am resting
+on my oars awhile, and perhaps some one else may
+undertake the experiment.</p>
+
+<p>Particulars of the races between “Golden Crest” and
+“Storm Along” are noted on <a href="#CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">p. 102</a>.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a><a id="Page_32"></a><a id="Page_33"></a>33</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">
+    CHAPTER II.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE THE HULL.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Before entering upon the subject of this chapter, I will
+enumerate the tools which will be needed: these are a
+small axe, saw, plane, 1 in. gouge, ½ in. gouge, a rasp, a
+bradawl, a screw-driver, a gimlet, a hammer, a pair of
+small round-nosed pliers, a rat-tail file, a half-round file,
+a small mallet, and last, though not least, a good pocket
+knife.</p>
+
+<p>It is best and easiest, at any rate for beginners, to
+cut out model ships from a solid block, because if not
+scooped out too thin, alterations can be made on the
+outside if desirable; if the block, in process of cutting
+out, should split, rub it with a piece of flannel dipped in
+linseed oil every time after working on it, the tools cut
+just as easily, and all liability to split is obviated.</p>
+
+<p>To make a 3 ft. yacht (see lateral view, frontispiece;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>deck outline, diagram 8, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>; and sectional outlines,
+<a href="#p037">p. 37</a>), get a block of deal, with as few knots and cracks
+in it as possible, and well-seasoned; it must be 39 in.
+long, 13 in. wide, and 8 in. deep; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p034_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p034_1.jpg" alt="a block of wood">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Divide it into two exact halves, as shown by the dotted
+line—this centre line must <i>never be lost</i> or <i>rubbed
+out till the hull is finished</i>; choose the best side for
+the deck or upper side, divide it lengthways into
+eleven compartments or divisions, and carefully set off
+on each side the length of each line (as shown in
+diagram 8, <a href="#p019">p. 19</a>); thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p034_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p034_2.jpg" alt="a block of wood marked for shaping">
+</figure>
+
+<p>With the axe (mind all the tools are sharp) chop off
+carefully both sides of the block till it is shaped thus—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p035_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p035_1.jpg" alt="the block after initial shaping">
+</figure>
+
+<p>With the gouge cut out the run and entrance in the
+bottom of the piece of wood, beginning a little forward
+of the middle for the run; and at same time cut away
+so much of the bottom as will leave ½ in. for the keel,
+by ⅝ wide. The next diagram shows one side, with
+entrance and run cut out.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p035_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p035_2.jpg" alt="the block shaped for entrance and run">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Having cut out the other side to <i>correspond exactly</i>,
+and rounded the sides and bottom with the plane and
+rasp, taking care all the curved parts are in keeping
+with the curves of the deck diagram <span class="allsmcap">C</span>, saw a slanting
+piece off the cutwater, about ½ in. at bottom to
+nothing at top, measure 36 in. from the middle of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>the cutwater towards the stern, and cut out the piece
+of keel in the run, so as to leave the counter (projecting
+of the stern); thus (the dotted lines show where and
+how to cut)—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p036">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p036.jpg" alt="trimming stem and stern">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The counter must not project more than 3 in., and
+therefore the ship will be 3 ft. keel, and 3 ft. 3 in. over
+all. Now smooth and model the ship to your best
+ability, see the keel <i>is quite straight</i>, and the <i>sternpost
+perpendicular to the stempost or cutwater</i> (<i>a a</i> is the
+sternpost in above diagram <span class="allsmcap">E</span>).</p>
+
+<p>If the vessel is now exactly equal on both sides, and
+not lob-sided, as sailors call it, you can finish it with the
+rasp, scrape it with glass, and polish it with sand paper,
+making the outside look perfectly ship-shape.</p>
+
+<p>The sectional views here shown enable the model
+ship builder to judge of the correctness of his work; they
+represent the hull <i>when finished</i>, if cut athwart or across
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>into four pieces of equal length, and by holding the
+vessel in the required position the builder can see if his
+model present these or nearly these outlines exteriorly;
+if so, it is right.</p>
+
+<p>It is not at all necessary to adhere exactly to this
+outline of the midship section (although it governs the
+outlines of the other two); it may be cut somewhat
+flatter on the bottom, as indicated by the dotted lines,
+and this would of course slightly vary the other sectional
+outlines, but I do not think it should be made
+more angular, nor do I advise it, as the vessel would
+lose too much buoyancy.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p037">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p037.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption>
+    SECTIONAL VIEWS.
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The next thing is to scoop it out with the gouge
+and mallet. Leave the sides everywhere ⅜ or ½ in. thick,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>and be careful not to scoop thinner, or leave the sides
+thicker in one part than another.</p>
+
+<p>The gouge is the principal tool for this work, but a
+centrebit, to bore holes all over the inside, is a great
+assistance, it saves half the hammering; however, when
+scooped out and the inside smoothed, your vessel should
+look thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p038_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p038_1.jpg" alt="the hull scooped out">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Next make the <i>sheer</i> by planing out the gunwale
+(gunwale <i>a a</i>), beginning at nothing forward at the
+stem, gradually increasing to ½ in. amidships, and again
+decreasing to nothing at the stern. The diagram <span class="allsmcap">G</span> below
+shows clearly what is meant by the sheer, and how to
+fashion it: the dotted line is the sheer—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p038_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p038_2.jpg" alt="shaping the sheer">
+</figure>
+
+<p>and a vessel looks very stiff and ungraceful without it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span></p>
+
+<p>Now give the inside a coat of white paint, and then
+the deck can be put on. The deck must be made of
+one piece of deal plank, without splits or knots, ¼ in.
+thick at the sides, and ⅜ in. in the middle; this gives the
+deck a slightly rounded appearance, and, besides, greatly
+strengthens it. Mark the shape of the gunwale on the
+plank by turning the ship bottom upwards upon it, and
+marking it round with a pencil; draw a middle line
+from end to end, and cut it to the required shape as
+near as possible.</p>
+
+<p>A beam must now be put across the middle of the
+ship, exactly level with the gunwale on both sides,
+to support the deck and strengthen the sides of the
+ship; the beam should be ½ in. square; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p039">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p039.jpg" alt="fitting a beam to support the deck">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Screw the sides of the ship to the ends of the beam;
+then put on the deck, and screw it to the gunwale all
+round with ½ in. brass (everything must be brass except
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>the lead keel) screws at about equal distances of 3 in.,
+and two or three screws through the deck into the
+beam; if this is done in a workmanlike way, and the
+edge of the deck planed off and smoothed level with
+the side of the ship, the hull ought to be perfect, and
+practically water-tight. Mind in putting in the beam to
+leave place for the hatchway or step of the mast.</p>
+
+<p>The next operation is to put on the keels—false and
+leaden. The false keel is simply a strip of beech, oak, or
+mahogany, of the same length as the keel of the ship,
+⅝ in. thick, ½ in. deep at one end, and 1 in. at the
+other; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p040">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p040.jpg" alt="a false keel">
+</figure>
+
+<p>This must be screwed into the keel of the ship with
+brass screws of proper length, <i>i.e.</i> not to go through
+the bottom of the ship, about 6 in. apart. This false
+keel, and the position it occupies, can be easily seen in
+the drawing of “Diana,” and is marked <span class="allsmcap">K</span>; the leaden
+keel is underneath as there shown, and I will now
+describe the best way to make it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span></p>
+
+<p>20 lbs. of lead will be required for a 3 ft. yacht, as
+before stated, and the lead can be melted in any old
+pot, on any ordinary clear kitchen fire. First make an
+oblong narrow box or mould of any smooth ½ in. boards—<i>dry</i>,
+or the lead will splutter and be full of air-holes—3
+ft. long inside, ⅝ in. inside width, 2 in. deep at
+one end, and 3 in. at the other; this will hold about
+20 lbs. of lead, and here follows a drawing of the
+mould.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p041">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p041.jpg" alt="mould for lead keel">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Into the bottom of this mould, and sticking upright, as
+shown in the drawing, must be placed at equal distances
+six or eight pegs, beginning about 1 in. from the extreme
+ends of the mould; these pegs must be rather thicker
+than the screws intended to screw the leaden to the false
+keel, and will, as no doubt the intelligent reader already
+perceives, leave holes in the cast leaden keel for the
+screws to go through, these screws may be long enough
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>to go through the false keel into the ship’s bottom, and
+the work will be all the stronger and better. Having
+melted the lead, pour it at once into the mould, and
+the keel is made; when cool take it out of the mould,
+trim it, smooth the sides and top and bottom with the
+plane, and let the shape be something thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p042">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p042.jpg" alt="final shape of lead keel">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Screw it on to and through the false keel (if you cannot
+make holes through the false keel to receive the screws
+without danger of splitting it, bore them in their proper
+places with the bradawl, and then burn them out with a
+red-hot skewer); the thickest end of the keel must be
+aft or behind, and when screwing it on mind and bore
+out the top of the holes in the lead, so that the heads
+of the screws may be quite level with the lead (this
+operation is called countersinking the screws); the
+heaviest end of the lead is put aft so as to make the
+ship well up at the stem and deep at the stern;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>the reason for this will be given in the chapter on
+“sailing a model yacht.”</p>
+
+<p>It may, however, be well to add here that the false
+keel, by holding the leaden keel at a greater distance
+from the bottom of the ship, greatly increases the <i>leverage
+of the leaden keel without increasing the weight</i>, and
+gives great hold upon the water, however little water the
+hull may draw, so that more sail can be carried, and the
+ship steer better with this arrangement than without it.</p>
+
+<p>Now try how she floats, and if she floats about 3 in.
+deeper aft than forward, that will do.</p>
+
+<p>Next get a strip of sheet brass about 5 ft. long, ½ in.
+wide, and ⅛ in. thick; most likely you will have to get
+this soldered in two or three pieces; it is to make a
+band to cover the leaden keel at the bottom, ends, and
+also the stem and sternpost, to keep them from being
+injured by stones, &amp;c., on striking the shore, &amp;c.;
+holes must be punched in it at every 3 in. where it
+covers the lead, and at every inch where it covers the
+wood of the stem and sternpost.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p044_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p044_1.jpg" alt="a brass strip protecting the keel">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The above drawing shows what is meant, and the place
+it occupies (I have distorted the drawing to show it
+better); it must be screwed with brass ½ in. screws,
+countersunk, to the lead keel, &amp;c., as above stated; the
+cutwater part of it must be filed away to ¼ in. wide,
+the rest may be left ½ in. wide. This has always been
+to me the most difficult operation, and it must be well
+done and put on perfectly straight at bottom and both
+ends.</p>
+
+<p>When screwing it on leave one hole without screw
+in the stem for the bobstay, and two in the sternpost
+for the self-acting rudder, as shown in this drawing.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p044_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p044_2.jpg" alt="where to leave holes for bobstay and rudder fittings">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The one in the stem must be about 5 in. from top, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span>the two in the sternpost about 5 in. apart—the black
+dots show the places.</p>
+
+<p>The hull is now finished; next scratch the deck with
+straight lines ½ in. apart from stem to stern to imitate
+planks, leaving ½ in. margin all round to look like a
+gunwale, and with the following remarks I will close
+this chapter.</p>
+
+<p>It must be understood that it is almost impossible
+to mention every operation; many things, and the
+way to do them, must be left to the ingenuity and skill
+of the builder; it is sufficient that if my directions have
+been reasonably carried out, the result, so far, will be a
+good seaworthy model yacht’s hull.</p>
+
+<p>I have given in this chapter and elsewhere the dimensions
+for a 3 ft. boat, because it is easier to work downwards
+from a large size than upwards from a small one.
+There is less chance of mistake, for an error in a 2 ft.
+boat would be multiplied by working upwards, while the
+same error would be decreased in working downwards.</p>
+
+<p>A 3 ft. boat is somewhat large and heavy; 2 ft. and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>2 ft. 6 in. are the best sizes. Indeed, unless a large
+boat is specially required, beginners should not attempt
+anything larger than a 2 ft. boat, and even a boat 1 ft.
+6 in. is a very good size for boys, and will sail, &amp;c., as
+well as a 3 ft. boat, though of course not so fast.</p>
+
+<p>I append tables of measurement for the blocks of
+wood and weight of keels for all these sizes:—</p>
+
+
+<table class="autotable3">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+For boat
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+block (inches)
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+keel (lbs)
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+3 ft.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+39&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; × 13&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; × 8&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+20
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2 ft. 6 in.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+32½ × 10⅚ × 6⅔
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+10
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2 ft.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+26&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; × &nbsp;&nbsp;8⅔ × 5⅓
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;7
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+1 ft. 6 in.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+19½ × &nbsp;&nbsp;6½ × 4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;3
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<p>It would not matter if in the large sizes the keel were
+a pound or so heavier, and in the small a half-pound or
+so; but on no account must they be lighter in any case.
+I also add the weight of the leaden rudders necessary
+to make the vessels run before the wind.</p>
+
+
+<table class="autotable3">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+3 ft. boat
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+1¼
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+lbs.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2 ft. 6 in. boat
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+¾
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">”
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2 ft. boat
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+½
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">”
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+1 ft. 6 in. boat
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+¼
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">”
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p>For the masts, sails, and tackle of smaller boats, the
+calculation of size may be easily made.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a><a id="Page_48"></a><a id="Page_49"></a>49</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">
+    CHAPTER III.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE DECK FITTINGS, RUDDER, ETC.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>I purpose in this chapter to show how to make and
+fit all that is required on the deck to secure and work
+the rigging and sails. The following is a diagram of the
+deck of the ship, with each object in its proper place,
+and further on will be given enlarged drawings of each,
+with description:—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p049">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p049.jpg" alt="diagram of deck">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The first object, <i>a</i>, is a 1½ in. or 2 in. screw-eye, with
+large eye for the bowsprit to go through; this must be
+carefully screwed into the thick wood at the stem
+through the deck; <i>b</i> is the chock for the heel or inner
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>end of the bowsprit to fit in; <i>c</i> is the horse for the
+foresheet to work on; <i>d</i> is the hole or step for the
+mainmast; <i>e</i> is the hatchway or opening in the deck,
+just large enough to admit the hand easily; <i>f</i> is the
+horse for the mainsheet to travel on; <i>g g</i> and <i>h h</i> are 1 in.
+eye-bolts (screw-eyes) for the bowsprit guys, and main-backstays
+to be hooked to; these must be firm and strong.
+Here is a diagram of masts, spars, and rigging only.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p050">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p050.jpg" alt="diagram of masts, spars and rigging">
+  <figcaption class="sm">
+    <i>a</i> mainmast. <i>b</i> topmast. <i>c</i> gaff. <i>d</i> mainboom.
+    <i>e</i> starboard or right backstay. <i>f</i> larboard or left
+    backstay. <i>g</i> bowsprit. <i>h</i> starboard bowsprit guy. <i>i</i>
+    larboard bowsprit guy. <i>j</i> bobstay. <i>k</i> India-rubber ring to
+    keep boom down.
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>Inserting the screw-eye for the bowsprit, <i>a</i>, requires no
+explanation: it must be just large enough in the eye for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>the bowsprit to go through; if not large enough, file it
+to the necessary size with the rat-tail file.</p>
+
+<p>The chock <i>b</i> (<a href="#p049">p. 49</a>) must be made out of a piece of
+oak or mahogany about 3 in. long, and about 1 in.
+thick; a hole ½ in. deep, and of the diameter of the end
+or heel of the bowsprit should be made in it; thus—<img class="glyph15"
+src="images/p051_1.jpg" alt="the chock">;
+the other end may be tapered off to taste,
+and screwed strongly right through into the deck
+exactly amidships. It should be of such a height that
+when the bowsprit is in its place it shall be perfectly in
+a line with the mid-deck line, and also with the stem
+and stern (as shown in the diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>). The chock
+may be placed any distance from the stem, so long as it
+is not too close to the horse for foresheet (diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>).</p>
+
+<p>The horse for foresheet is made as follows: Cut two
+diamond or other shaped pieces of sheet brass, ⅛ in.
+thick, and about 1½ in. in length; thus—<img class="glyph15"
+src="images/p051_2.jpg" alt="a plate for the horse">; make
+a small hole at each corner, and a larger hole in the centre;
+then take about 5 in. of thick brass wire, and bend it at
+the ends so as to be 4 in. apart, put the ends through the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>plates; thus—<img class="glyph2"
+src="images/p052_1.jpg" alt="the horse">, and solder or
+get soldered, the wire to the plates underneath; bore
+holes in the deck 4 in. apart, 2 in. or so forward of the
+mainmast, and at equal distance from the mid-deck
+line; fit in the two ends, <i>a a</i>, and screw the plates
+firmly to the deck: if it is desired to be very neat, all
+the small holes should be countersunk.</p>
+
+<p>Another horse must be made exactly the same way,
+but 1 in. wider and somewhat stronger, for the mainsheet
+(diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>, <i>f</i>), and put as near the edge of
+the stern as due regard for strength will permit.</p>
+
+<p>The step or socket for the mainmast comes next.
+Get a short piece of brass tube ⅝ in. internal diameter,
+and about 7½ in. long; have a screw soldered into one
+end; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe25" id="p052_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p052_2.jpg" alt="brass tube for mainmast socket">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Bore a hole in the deck exactly amidships, and of
+exactly the same diameter as the outside of the pipe
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>or socket 13 in. from the stem, <i>i.e.</i> ⅓ the length of the
+deck; put the brass tube in the hole, and screw it tightly
+to the bottom of the ship, perpendicular to a line drawn
+from stem to stern, and also from side to side, so that
+the mainmast when put in it will be perfectly upright
+from all sides; file the top of the socket off if too high,
+so as to leave not more than ¼ in. above the deck.</p>
+
+<p>To make the hatchway or hole (<i>e</i> in diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>),
+cut out an oval or oblong hole in the centre of the deck,
+just abaft or behind the beam (diagram <span class="allsmcap">H</span>, <a href="#p039">p. 39</a>); a
+water-tight cover or stopper must be made for this with
+cork, wood, or anything the maker pleases, it matters
+not provided it is not much above the level of the deck,
+is water-tight, and can be taken in or out.</p>
+
+<p>Now bore a small hole through the deck, close to the
+starboard quarter (see <i>i</i> in diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>), make a
+short peg to fit it, and call it the <i>pump</i>; by inclining
+the ship towards this hole after sailing, and drawing
+the peg, you can see if she has leaked, and let the
+water out if necessary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span></p>
+
+<p>The screw-eyes <i>g g</i> and <i>h h</i>, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>, explain themselves
+by referring to <i>e</i>, <i>f</i>, <i>h</i>, and <i>i</i>, in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>; they
+are to hook on the rigging as there shown. These
+eye-bolts, <i>h h</i>, must be as close abaft the mainmast as is
+consistent with their properly supporting the mainmast,
+both laterally and aftwards. The reason is that if
+placed too far aft they would interfere with the mainboom
+swinging far enough out when running before the
+wind; the nearer the mainboom is to a right angle with
+the keel, the steadier and faster the ship will run before
+the wind. <i>g g</i> may be in a line with the horse for the
+foresheet <i>c</i> (diagram, <a href="#p049">p. 49</a>); care must be taken to
+screw them through the edge of the deck, and into the
+gunwale firmly.</p>
+
+<p>To cast the rudder, make a small wooden mould or
+box similar to that for the keel, about 6 in. long, 3 in.
+deep, and ½ in. wide.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p054">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p054.jpg" alt="mould for casting rudder">
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span></p>
+
+<p>Insert two moderately thick pieces of brass wire through
+the bottom, and about an inch into the box (as in dotted
+line), bend them so as to make them stick in the
+lead, and just as far apart as are the two screw-eyes for
+this rudder in diagram “stern,” <a href="#p044_2">p. 44</a>; pour in 1¼ lbs.
+of melted lead, trim the lead with the rasp, and turn the
+wires thus—;</p>
+<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p055">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p055.jpg" alt="finished rudder">
+</figure>
+<p>and when hooked into
+the screw-eyes or gudgeons, it should act easily either
+to right or left. Skilful or tasteful young model yacht
+sailors can vary the shape of the rudder; I have given
+the simplest and easiest shape to make.</p>
+
+<p>This completes all the deck fittings necessary for
+working and sailing the ship, but if on trial the rudder
+should be too heavy or too light, another must be made—experience
+is the best guide.</p>
+
+<p>I need hardly say that every direction I have given
+need not be followed to the letter; those who see and
+know what is required can do many things in their own
+way, and much must necessarily be left to individual
+taste, skill, and ingenuity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span></p>
+
+<p>At this stage, varnish the deck with copal varnish,
+and paint the hull whatever colour or colours fancy
+dictates; I, however, advise one colour only for the
+hull, it is less trouble and easier to repaint or repair,
+eventualities often recurring with model yachts.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a><a id="Page_58"></a><a id="Page_59"></a>59</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">
+    CHAPTER IV.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">HOW TO FIT MASTS, STANDING AND RUNNING GEAR, ETC.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The best material for making masts and spars is
+bamboo canes, these require little trimming, can be
+procured of any thickness and length, and are stronger,
+lighter, and more elastic than any other kind of wood.</p>
+
+<p>The mainmast must be 38 in. long from the deck,
+and ⅝ in. diameter at the foot, to fit the socket or step
+(diagram, <a href="#p052_2">p. 52</a>), slightly tapering to the head or top;
+the head must be fitted with a brass ferrule or socket
+for the topmast (like a fishing-rod), and must be <i>included</i>
+in the above 38 in. length, but as the mast has to fit in
+the step, the depth of the step must be added to it.</p>
+
+<p>If the yacht builder cannot solder or get soldered
+eyes on the socket at the mast-head, he must lash them
+on for the foresail, jib, and main- and peak-halyards,
+and also for the main-backstays; thus—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span></p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p060">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p060.jpg" alt="">
+ <p class="sm">
+    <i>a</i> socket for topmast.<br>
+    <i>b</i> ring for peak-halyards.<br>
+    <i>c</i> ring for throat-halyards.<br>
+    <i>d</i> ring for jib-halyards.<br>
+    <i>e</i> ring for foresail-halyards.<br>
+    <i>f</i> ring for starboard-backstay.<br>
+    <i>g</i> ring for larboard-backstay.<br>
+    <i>h</i> gaff.</p>
+
+</figure>
+
+<p>Rings <i>d</i> and <i>e</i> must be lashed forward, <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> aft,
+<i>f</i> and <i>g</i> one on each side, <i>e</i> and <i>c</i> about an inch below
+<i>f</i> and <i>b</i>; this is all necessary for the mainmast.</p>
+
+<p>The bowsprit must be 34½ in. long outside the stem
+and a trifle thicker than the mainmast; be careful to
+allow the extra length from the stem to the chock
+(<a href="#Page_51">p. 51</a>); it must have rings (these rings can be got at
+any fishing shop, of all sizes—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p060_2.jpg" alt="rings of different sizes">, any size
+will do, so that the lines used pass easily through)
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span>for the guys and bobstay lashed on, and hooks for
+the jib and foresail; tip the end with a band thus, to
+prevent damage to it by collisions—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p061_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p061_1.jpg" alt="">
+  <p class="sm">
+    <i>a a</i> rings on each side, close to the end, for the guys.<br>
+    <i>b</i>   ring for bobstay underneath.<br>
+    <i>c</i>   hook for jib tack. (to be on top.)<br>
+    <i>d</i>   hook for foresail tack. (to be on top.)
+  </p>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The hooks, <i>c</i> and <i>d</i>, for the tacks cannot be lashed
+on till the sails are made and fitted, for as the jib must
+always swing clear of the foresail, and the foresail clear
+of the mainmast, it is best to try them before lashing on
+these hooks.</p>
+
+<p>These hooks are made of stout brass wire about
+1½ in. long, flattened where to be lashed, and the end
+turned up with the pliers; thus—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p061_2.jpg" alt="a hook for the tack">; the
+hook ¼ in. high is plenty, so that the sails may be as
+low down as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Next, with the pliers make a dozen hooks or so, this
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>shape and size—<img class="glyph1" src="images/p062_1.jpg"  alt="a different hook">, of strong wire; and two of
+still stouter wire, this shape and size, say 1 in.—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p062_1.jpg" alt="a larger hook">;
+the former are for the various standing
+and running gear, and the two latter for the foresail
+sheet and mainsheet. Make also a dozen or so of
+wood or bone slides to pattern—<img class="glyph15" src="images/p062_3.jpg"  alt="a slide">; one
+hook and one slide at least is required for every rope that
+has to be lengthened or shortened. Ladies’ bone meshes
+of suitable width and thickness make the best slides.</p>
+
+<p>The following diagram shows the application and use
+of these in all instances; say you are fitting the larboard
+mainbackstay (<i>f</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), make fast
+your line to the ring (<i>g</i>, diagram, <a href="#p060">p. 60</a>) at the mainmast
+head, pass the line through two holes of the slide, then
+through a hook which must be hooked on to the screw-eye
+(<i>f</i>, diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), back through the other hole in
+the slide, and make it fast there by a knot, only see the
+line is not too long or too short for convenient working.
+By this means, as you will soon see, any rope can be
+fitted that requires it, and can be lengthened or shortened
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>in a moment without danger of slipping; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p063_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p063_1.jpg" alt="a slide in operation">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The best line for all the gear is suitable sizes of fishing-line.
+If the line kinks, <i>i.e.</i> gets into twists, put a yard
+or so at a time through the loop of the key in a door,
+cross it over itself once or twice, and rub it backwards
+and forwards, that takes all the turn out.</p>
+
+<p>The brass wire required may be these sizes—</p>
+
+
+<table class="autotable3">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">
+<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_a.jpg"  alt="brass wire">
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+for small hooks.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">
+<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_b.jpg"  alt="brass wire">
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+larger hooks, &amp;c., &amp;c.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">
+<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_c.jpg"  alt="brass wire">
+
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+foresheet horse.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">
+<img class="glyph2" src="images/p063_2_d.jpg"  alt="brass wire">
+
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+mainsheet horse.
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p>Now comes the mainboom (<i>d</i>, diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>); it
+must be 36 in. long, a little thinner than the mainmast,
+and must be fitted thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p063_3">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p063_3.jpg" alt="fitting up the mainboom">
+</figure>
+
+<p>Put a brass band, <i>a</i>, ½ in. wide, round the thicker end,
+drive a peg strongly into the hollow of the bamboo (the
+band is to stop it splitting), and screw in a screw-eye,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>as shown at <i>b</i> above; then lash one ring on at <i>c</i>, say
+15 in. from <i>a</i>, and another at <i>d</i>, both on the under side of
+the boom, this last crossways. These two rings are for
+the mainsheet <i>f</i>, and are most important; they must be
+well put on, the latter, <i>d</i>, about 12 in. from the outer
+end of the boom, so as to work well when the hook <i>e</i> is
+hooked on to the horse for this sheet (viz. mainsheet)
+at the stern; this hook, <i>e</i>, is to be one of the large
+hooks (as shown <a href="#Page_62">p. 62</a>).</p>
+
+<p>In order that the mainsheet should not have to be
+made too long, and thereby get foul of the stern, &amp;c.,
+when the boom swings over in running or reaching,
+it is best to have another sheet called the “running
+sheet,” to be fitted as follows:—</p>
+
+<p>Screw a screw-eye (a strong one) into the middle of
+the deck, just abaft the hatchway, lash a ring to the
+underside of the mainboom exactly over the screw-eye
+when the mainboom is amidships, fasten a strong
+piece of line to the screw-eye, put on a slide, then pass
+it through a hook, and fasten off to the slide, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span>hook into the ring on the mainboom; and let this
+sheet be just so long, that when the mainboom is out
+as far as it can go for the backstays, it will just take
+the strain off the backstays, on whichever side it
+happens to be, in running before the wind.</p>
+
+<p>By means of this running sheet, when the after
+mainsheet is unhooked, the mainboom can be kept in
+or let out to any required angle without the sheet
+fouling, and as the running sheet is fast to the ship
+only, it can be easily unhooked from the mainboom
+when unrigging. Still, this running sheet is not
+absolutely necessary, but is a very great convenience.</p>
+
+<p>To attach the mainboom to the mast, and allow it to
+move freely, get a strip of sheet brass ⅜ in. wide,
+just long enough to go <i>round the mast</i> (close to the
+deck), and ⅜ in. over at each end; bore a hole at each
+end thus—<img class="glyph1" src="images/p065_1.jpg" alt="brass strip for mainboom attachment">, and bend it round
+the mast. With the pincers nip the two ends
+close together, and so that the two holes are
+in a line thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter" id="p065_2">
+  <img class="glyph4" src="images/p065_2.jpg" alt="brass strip bent around the mast">
+</figure>
+<p>Now
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>put the screw-eye at the end of the mainboom
+between these two holes, fasten it there with a bit of
+wire turned round at each end; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="p066_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p066_1.jpg" alt="the mainboom to mast attachment">
+</figure>
+
+<p>No arrangement can be more perfect or stronger than
+this.</p>
+
+<p>The above operation has to be repeated for the <i>jaws</i>
+or inner end of the gaff (<i>c</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>), but the
+ring must fit the head of the mast instead of the foot.</p>
+
+<p>The gaff must be 21½ in. long, and a little thinner
+than the mainboom; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p066_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p066_2.jpg" alt="the gaff">
+</figure>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span></p>
+
+<p>Lash one large ring at <i>a</i>, as close to the end as possible,
+two others, smaller, further out at <i>b</i> and <i>c</i>, and one at
+<i>d</i>; all these rings must be on the top side of the gaff,
+<i>d</i> an inch from the outer end of the gaff, for the sheet of
+the topsail to be hooked on (see frontispiece).</p>
+
+<p>The topmast is a taper bamboo, the lower end of
+which must fit tightly into the socket at the mainmast
+head, it must be 24 in. long outside the socket; lash
+two small rings at opposite sides, ½ in. from the head,
+put a knob on the top (called the truck), and the topmast
+is ready.</p>
+
+<p>The boom for the foresail (<i>i.e.</i> the spar that extends
+the foot of the sail) must be 20 in. long, that for the jib
+25½ in. long, and both about the thickness of the gaff;
+here, however, use your judgment. Lash rings on for
+the sheets of each; each must have a sliding sheet
+(see drawing at end of this chapter) the same as for the
+mainsheet (<a href="#p063_1">p. 63</a>); the jib sheet, however, requires no
+hook at the end, but must be made fast to the bowsprit,
+or, if greater precision is required, a horse may be made
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>for the jib as for the other sails, and fastened in its
+proper place across the bowsprit, and to the guys as
+below;</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p068_1">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p068_1.jpg" alt="horse fitted to bowsprit">
+</figure>
+
+<p>it may be made of thin brass wire, as follows,
+merely taking care that it is the right length, and that
+the horse is an inch or so less than the foresheet horse.
+It is made of four pieces of wire, the horse bent, as in
+diagram below, and the other pieces soldered to it;</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p068_2">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p068_2.jpg" alt="design of bowsprit horse">
+</figure>
+
+<p>the guys may be passed through the loops a on their respective
+sides, and knots made to keep them in place; it
+will be perfectly self-acting, and never get out of place;
+the weather guy being always tight will always keep it
+nearly horizontal; it makes the jib, like the other sails,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>a good <i>driving</i> as well as steering sail. Besides the
+above rings, another must be lashed on the outer end
+(all the rings on the boom are underneath) of each
+boom, <i>a</i> and <i>b</i>, about 2½ in. from the end; thus—</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p069">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p069.jpg" alt="boom ring placement">
+</figure>
+
+<p>and must both be crosswise, as they are to secure these
+booms to their respective hooks (see <i>c</i> and <i>d</i> on bowsprit,
+<a href="#p061_1">p. 61</a>; and also diagram, <a href="#p070">p. 70</a>). This manner
+of fixing these sails is the best to keep them tight and
+flat when in use.</p>
+
+<p>This diagram shows the best mode of fixing the tacks
+of jib and foresail to the bowsprit; by this means, when
+the sail fills with the wind, it raises the after end of the
+boom, <i>depresses the fore end</i>, and thus tightens the luff
+of the sail and keeps it taut, which is very necessary.
+This diagram also shows how the jib and foresail swing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>clear of each other; also that the jib must not quite go
+to the end of the bowsprit, or it may be knocked off.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="p070">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p070.jpg" alt="location of jib and foresail tacks on the bowsprit">
+</figure>
+
+<p>When all the rings are carefully and neatly lashed
+on, say with strong white thread,—lashing is the
+best, because it does not weaken the spars by making
+it necessary to bore holes in them,—varnish all the
+lashings with copal varnish, it will preserve them and
+prevent them slipping.</p>
+
+<p>Each maker must use a little judgment, and <i>understand
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>what he is going to do before he does it</i>, and as in
+some instances the spars, or what not, may be a little
+too long, the best plan is for the maker to try each
+and everything before spoiling his work.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p071">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p071.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption>
+    <i>Enlarged Diagram of how to fix the sliding sheets for the respective booms,
+    i.e. jib, fore, and main.</i>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a><a id="Page_73"></a><a id="Page_74"></a><a id="Page_75"></a>75</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">
+    CHAPTER V.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">HOW TO MAKE THE SAILS AND SET THEM.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The speed and precision in the sailing of a model yacht,
+depend much more upon the sails than the hull, and
+the greatest care must be taken in making them.</p>
+
+<p>If pains are taken to carry out the following
+directions, an excellent suit of self-acting sails will
+be the result.</p>
+
+<p>The best material is either bleached or unbleached
+calico, 1 yd. wide, at 8<i>d.</i> per yd., and for a 2 ft. yacht
+10<i>d.</i> per yd.; 3 yds. are sufficient for a 3 ft. boat. Steep
+the calico in clean water, and dry it across a line
+before using it. It is always better to cut the patterns
+of the sails out in paper, and try them in their places,
+before cutting the stuff.</p>
+
+<p>On the next page are given diagrams of the four
+sails for a cutter, and as all are cut on the cross, care
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span>must be taken when hemming them not to pucker or
+stretch the material; the after leach, <i>i.e.</i> the behind
+edge of all the sails, must be the selvedge, and must
+not be hemmed. In cutting out, allowance must be
+made for the hems, the measurements given being the
+actual sizes required.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p076">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p076.jpg" alt="patterns for sails">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The bottoms of the sails must be slightly rounded, as
+shown above, and a narrow tape must be sewn across, as
+shown by the dotted lines, to keep the sails from stretching.</p>
+
+<p>All the sewing for these sails can be done perfectly
+and expeditiously with any lock-stitch machine; it
+will sew them exactly even without puckering, and all
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span>that has to be done by hand is to fasten off the corners.
+I make all my own sails, and can, without hurry,
+make a full large suit for a 3 ft. boat in an evening.</p>
+
+<p>The selvedges are not to be hemmed, because the
+after leaches of all the sails should allow the wind to
+pass freely off. The sizes of the sails are marked on
+the diagrams distinctly; allow ½ in. extra on the outer
+leach of the mainsail, from <i>c</i> to <i>d</i> in diagram below, so
+that it may be slightly loose; this helps to steer
+materially, as the leach will shake before the body of
+the sail, if the vessel comes too much up in the wind,
+and so losing its power allow the ship to fall off and
+sail steadily.</p>
+
+<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p077">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p077.jpg" alt="cutting head of mainsail">
+</figure>
+
+<p>This diagram shows
+how to cut the head of the mainsail;
+the dotted line shows how the sail
+would be if cut straight, therefore
+cut straight from <i>a</i> to <i>b</i>, then slant
+off to <i>d</i> at rather more than midway from <i>a</i> to <i>c</i>.
+Make eight or ten eyelet holes at equal distances in
+the hoist of the mainsail, and fix a ring or grummet
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>of twine in each hole to fit loosely round the mainmast;
+these are better than brass rings or wooden hoops,
+and weigh nothing.</p>
+
+<p>The lower outer corner of the mainsail should be
+double for 2 or 3 in. (see diagram, <a href="#p076">p. 76</a>), to strengthen
+it; in fact, the corners of all the sails are none the
+worse for being so doubled.</p>
+
+<p>Now fix the sail to the mainboom and gaff; with a
+needle and strong thread is best: do not pull the
+sail too tight. The boom will then be 2 in. or so too
+long; do not cut that off, it is useful to turn the ship
+with; leave also the extra length of the gaff, it looks
+better. The head of the sail must be laced or tied
+to the gaff at intervals of 1 in., but on no account
+lace the foot of the sails to the booms; (for reason
+why see <a href="#Page_29">p. 29</a>) the sail is then ready.</p>
+
+<p>In setting, <i>i.e.</i> putting on, the mainsail, when you
+have passed the foot of the mainmast through the
+jaws of the gaff and all the grummets, then before
+passing it through the jaws of the mainboom, put on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>an India-rubber ring, and then the mainboom; the
+ring must be pretty tight to the mast, and is very
+useful to keep the mainboom from slipping up. For
+position of this ring, see <i>k</i> in diagram, <a href="#p050">p. 50</a>.</p>
+
+<p>To hold the mainsail up, the inner ring on the gaff
+and lower after-ring on the mainmast head, must have
+stout twine passed through and made fast. This is
+called the throat-halyards.</p>
+
+<p>The gaff must be kept at its proper angle by means
+of twine made fast to the next ring on the gaff, passed
+through a hook, which hook into the upper after-ring
+at the mainmast head, and fasten off at the third ring
+on the gaff. This is called the peak-halyards. With
+these two, peak- and throat-halyards, you can easily fix
+the mainsail, so that when the mainboom <i>is half an
+inch above the deck at the mast</i>, and about an inch or
+so clear of the mainsheet horse at the stern, the sail
+shall set perfectly flat.</p>
+
+<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p080">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p080.jpg" alt="arrangement of topmast stay">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The annexed arrangement of the topmast stay is
+excellent; it keeps tight the luff of the jib, slightly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>slacks up the after leach, and is no trouble whatever
+to fix or unfix. It simply consists of putting a large
+ring (so that the hook can pass
+through) at the top point of the
+jib, pass the topmast stay-hook
+through, and hook it into a ring
+sewn on to the luff any distance
+down you think sufficient, as in
+diagram at side, <i>a</i> topmast, <i>b</i>
+topmast stay, <i>c</i> mainsail, <i>d</i> jib.</p>
+
+<p>The jib must have a piece of tape stitched from <i>a</i> to
+<i>b</i> on the double, ½ in. each side (see <a href="#Page_76">p. 76</a>), and a ring
+sewn on at <i>b</i>. A hem only in the luff would be
+useless on account of the strain. The same must be
+done to the foresail; hem the bottoms, and leave the
+selvedges as they are.</p>
+
+<p>Lash them to their respective yards or booms (see
+diagram, pp. <a href="#p069">69</a> and <a href="#p070">70</a>). Of course the sail must be
+on the top of the boom, and the rings and sheets
+underneath; try them in their places; now lash
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>on the hooks to the bowsprit (see <a href="#p061_1">p. 61</a>), and you will
+see exactly where to put them; mind, the jib must
+swing just clear of both bowsprit and foresail (see
+frontispiece), and the foresail just clear of the mast
+and stem. Fit both these sails at the head with a
+hook and slide, the end of the line to be fast to the
+head of the sail, and the hook is to hook into the rings
+(respectively) at the mainmast head (see frontispiece),
+which shows exactly how all the sails set. The booms
+for these sails (jib and foresail) must be cut close, as
+there is no room to spare.</p>
+
+<figure class="figleft illowe10" id="p082">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p082.jpg" alt="the topsail">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The topsail is 28 in. high, and reaches from the
+large ring in the jaws of the gaff (<i>a</i>, <a href="#p066_2">p. 66</a>) to the
+topmast head, and before cutting it out the mainsail
+must be tried and set. The shape of this sail depends
+on the peak or angle of the gaff; and having made a
+pattern in paper to fit thus, make eyelet holes equidistant
+from <i>b</i> to head of the mainmast, and put in rings
+of twine to fit the topmast loosely, as was done before
+with mainsail; fasten a hook to each of the corners, <i>a</i>,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span><i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, to hook into the respective rings already placed
+for them;—if the hooks are too short,
+use a piece of twine sewn to the sail, at
+<i>b</i> and <i>c</i> only, to lengthen them;—now
+sew a button at the edge of the
+curved bottom of the sail at <i>d</i>, and a
+loop to button on it on the head of
+the mainsail at <i>e</i>; this keeps the
+rounded foot always flat.</p>
+
+<p>The masts, sails, and gear being now all complete,
+try them on, and make any little alterations that may
+be necessary. If my directions have been intelligently
+followed, the sails will be exactly the sizes and shape
+of those in the lateral diagram, frontispiece.</p>
+
+<p>A strong, fine piece of line, fitted with a slide and hook,
+in the usual way, the end made fast to the topmast
+head ring forward, and the hook to be hooked into
+the ring at the jib head or top corner (see the diagram
+<a href="#Page_80">p. 80</a>, and also <a href="#p006">frontispiece</a>). This is to raise the foot
+of the jib, if required, and also to steady the topmast;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>this is a simple though not so effectual a topmast stay as
+that given, <a href="#Page_80">p. 80</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The sails must be as tight and flat as possible when
+set, and the mast must be kept exactly upright by the
+backstays aft, and by the jib and foresail forward, the
+tape on the jib and foresail taking the place of stays
+or ropes used for that purpose in ordinary yachts,
+which are by this means dispensed with in models.</p>
+
+<p>Sail and mast-making is not yet done. Another
+suit of masts, spars, and sails, of exactly two-thirds the
+length, breadth, and height of these, must be made.
+It is called the <i>storm suit</i>, and is used when the wind
+is too strong for the first suit. Reefing is not practicable
+in a cutter.</p>
+
+<p>Some model yachtsmen have three or four suits of
+sails, &amp;c.; I find two sufficient, because I don’t sail a
+yacht when there is scarcely a breath, and I don’t sail
+one when it blows a hurricane, and so I find two
+suits enough. Still if you race in matches, and mean
+winning, you must have both a larger and smaller suit,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>for you can never tell what the wind will be on the
+race day, and must be prepared.</p>
+
+<p>Now that all your sails are complete, paint the hull,
+and varnish the deck again; tip the end of the masts
+and booms the colour of your yacht, it looks ship-shape.</p>
+
+<figure class="figleft" id="p084">
+  <img class="glyph4" src="images/p084.jpg" alt="hook for handling the ship">
+</figure>
+
+<p>A pole of pine or deal, 6 ft. long, with a double
+hook at one end, is required to handle and turn the
+ship. Herewith drawing of the hook.
+One side is to push the ship out, and the
+other to pull it in or turn it.</p>
+
+<p>Lastly, two bags are needed, each to contain 1 lb.
+of shot, for shifting ballast to trim the ship, if you
+require her deeper aft or forward.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a><a id="Page_86"></a><a id="Page_87"></a>87</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">
+    CHAPTER VI.
+    <br>
+    <span class="sm">HOW TO SAIL AND STEER A MODEL YACHT.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The action of the wind upon the sails of a vessel
+presses her down sideways and forwards, this causes
+the lee bow (viz. that on the side opposed to the wind)
+to be more immersed than the weather bow (or wind
+side bow), and the curve of the bow acting like a rudder
+or wedge, forces the vessel strongly up in the wind, in
+exact proportion to the strength of the wind. This is
+a simple mechanical law any one can understand after
+watching a model yacht for five minutes, and to
+counteract while utilizing it, I build a model yacht
+much deeper aft than forward, make the bowsprit very
+long, the jib and foresail large, and the mainsail narrow
+at the head and slack in the outer leach or edge.
+These arrangements, properly adjusted, nearly neutralize
+this tendency of the lee bow to force the ship to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>windward, and leave only just enough, so that by
+setting the sails in the way shown later, a model
+yacht steers itself perfectly. Great care must be taken
+not to overdo it, otherwise the vessel will run off the
+wind, and not steer herself at all.</p>
+
+<p>The part which the increased depth of keel aft plays
+in steering a model yacht is this; as the sails are very
+evenly balanced, and exert little more force at the
+stern than at the bow when <i>the vessel is upright in the
+water</i>; yet even then there is always the tendency
+more or less to come up in the wind, and as the bow
+is not so deep as the stern, the lateral pressure of all
+the sails forces the vessel sideways (called leeway),—she
+makes more <i>leeway forward than aft</i>, and thus
+this particular arrangement helps to make her steer
+herself. Necessarily, when the wind blows strongly it is
+of very great use, and enables increased length of bowsprit
+to be dispensed with: too long a bowsprit is a
+great drawback, it dips in the water, and is difficult to
+fasten firmly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span></p>
+
+<p>Again, a model vessel being well up by the stem,
+and deep aft, possesses another power of self-steering,
+viz. when the wind presses her down forward (when
+on the wind), it lightens her aft; this, of course,
+permits her to gripe more to windward, as she holds
+more water forward and less aft, but if she comes up
+too much, so as to relieve the mainsail of a great part
+of its pressure, the opposite action results, the bow is
+lightened and the stern depressed exactly in proportion,
+so that under all circumstances the vessel possesses a
+self-acting power to steer herself.</p>
+
+<p>Now, as just shown, a model yacht, partly by the
+action of the sails (particularly the mainsail), and
+partly by the action of the lee bow, will always keep
+close to the wind,—in fact, too close; therefore, to make
+her steer herself, the jib and foresail are kept in a
+little closer (<i>i.e.</i> more in a parallel line with the keel)
+than the mainsail. So if the vessel comes too close
+to the wind, first the outer leach of the mainsail loses
+its power and shakes, and if this does not suffice, <i>as it
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span>should</i>, to make her fall off again, the whole mainsail
+will shake, and as the jib and foresail must keep full,
+the ship pays off till the mainsail fills again. So an
+equilibrium is attained, and in a steady wind, on the
+sea for instance, the yacht would sail on in the same
+direction as if on rails, till the sails dropped in pieces.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p090">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p090.jpg" alt="boom positions">
+</figure>
+
+<p>This diagram gives the disposition of the booms by
+means of their respective sheets. To make a yacht
+sail full and by, <i>i.e.</i> close to the wind, and neither
+run off or shake, the jib is nearly parallel to the
+bowsprit, the foresail less so, and the mainsail least
+of all, and clearly shows the principle, for it is evident
+that if the vessel turned more towards the wind, the
+mainsail would shake, and the jib and foresail keeping
+still full, would turn the ship back to her course again,
+viz. “full and by.” On the other hand, she cannot
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span>run off the wind, because the mainsail, well full as it
+must be, if she ran off, would bring her up again
+instantly.</p>
+
+<p>I presume every intelligent person understands that
+a vessel cannot sail with her head to the wind (all the
+sails must shake, and she would go astern), and few
+vessels can sail nearer, if so near, as at an angle of 45°
+to the wind. In the next diagram will be shown
+the way to sail the vessel in any <i>possible</i> direction, and
+how the booms must be disposed, and the rudder or
+rudders and ballast bags used to accomplish it.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="p092">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/p092.jpg" alt="setting sails for direction of travel">
+</figure>
+
+<p>The wind is supposed to be blowing in the direction
+the arrow flies, and by holding this diagram with the
+arrow towards the point the wind is blowing from, your
+vessel can be made to sail in every direction there
+indicated.</p>
+
+<p>No vessel can head nearer towards the wind shown
+by the arrow, than <i>a</i> and <i>aa</i>, one being on the larboard,
+the other on the starboard tack (as it is called), <i>i.e.</i>
+about 45°, four points of a compass, or half a right angle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span></p>
+
+<p>The vessel at <i>a</i> is therefore sailing close to the
+wind on the larboard tack, with the sails disposed for
+that purpose, as already shown (<a href="#p090">p. 90</a>); to put her on
+the other tack, simply turn her in the direction <i>aa</i>,
+head to wind; the sails, being self-acting, will go over
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span>of themselves by the force of the wind, and she will
+continue on that tack till stopped or turned.</p>
+
+<p>To sail her as at <i>b</i>, ease off the mainsheet till the
+mainboom is at an angle of 45° (this is called wind
+abeam) to the keel of the ship, and she will do so; it
+is seldom necessary to touch the jib or foresheets, leave
+those sails as at <i>a</i>. To sail her as at <i>bb</i>, turn her
+round, head to wind, and the sails take the same place
+on the other side, and that is done.</p>
+
+<p>To sail as at <i>c</i>, let go the mainsheet altogether; if the
+wind is not too strong, she will do so, but if it is too
+strong, a light rudder, self-acting, of about ¼ lb. weight
+must be made and used, and that will do it. Turn
+her round as before, head to wind, if you wish to sail
+her as at <i>cc</i>. The rule is simple enough: if the sails
+are set, and propel her in a given direction on the one
+tack, she will, if turned, sail in the corresponding
+direction on the other tack.</p>
+
+<p>To run before the wind at <i>d</i>, with the mainsheet let
+go, hook on the heavy rudder, and she will run more
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>or less true before the wind, according to the perfection
+with which the ship is built and the rudder balanced.
+The cause is this: if the vessel turns, say to starboard,
+the wind necessarily presses her over to larboard, the
+self-acting rudder (being exactly upright when the ship
+is upright) falls over to larboard also, and instantly
+puts her straight again; the exact opposite takes place
+should she turn to larboard, and so <i>she must sail
+straight before the wind</i>.</p>
+
+<p>When the wind is very light, it will sometimes
+occur, that the vessel on account of the large jib and
+foresail, will run off the wind; if so, put one or two
+of the bags of shot inside in her bows, and most
+likely that will remedy it; if not, change the angles of
+the jib and foresails, <i>i.e.</i> let the jib sheet out more,
+and haul the foresheet in as much as the jib was, so
+that you would then be steering more by the foresail
+than by the jib. This is sure to succeed.</p>
+
+<p>Before all these manœuvres can be successfully performed,
+some little practice is necessary, of course;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span>ships, like everything else, have little ways of their
+own, and must be studied.</p>
+
+<p>The topsail must always be kept set, and needs no
+touching after being once set, for though of no great
+use as a propelling sail, save off the wind, it is so as a
+steadying sail, being so lofty. My experience has
+taught me never to dispense with it.</p>
+
+<p>To prove the certainty with which a model yacht
+must sail in the direction intended, you can, as an
+experiment, put the vessel’s head in the water in any
+direction you please, and she will immediately take
+the <i>course for which the sails are set</i>, no matter how
+you put her in the water. For instance, place her in
+the water, <i>head to wind</i>, with the mainsheet let go,
+and the heavy rudder on, <i>i.e.</i> to sail as at <i>d</i> (<a href="#p092">p. 92</a>), and
+she will of her own account turn round and run before
+the wind, an operation which, to those not in the
+secret, seems like magic.</p>
+
+<p>Rigged in the way I have described, with every part
+of the standing and running rigging being made fast
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span>by hooks and slides, a cutter can be completely unrigged
+in one minute, and rigged again in three
+minutes: I have done it in these times easily. This
+is a very great advantage; there are no knots to make,
+no time is lost, and yet the rigging is as strong and
+as perfect as possible, and never fails till worn out.</p>
+
+<p>I hope I have now made all clear, and that my
+readers may be enabled to build ships, and rig them to
+sail with as much satisfaction to themselves as mine
+are to me.</p>
+
+<p>Model yachts can be rigged to sail and steer well, as
+schooners, luggers, &amp;c., and I have vessels rigged in
+those ways. Should this treatise meet with success, I
+purpose writing a second, dealing with this subject.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="MATERIALS_FOR_MODEL_SHIPS">
+    <span class="sm">MATERIALS FOR MODEL SHIPS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Block of wood: white pine or soft deal; at almost
+any wood-yard, and particularly at those in the
+neighbourhood of the docks; cost for a 2 ft. boat,
+2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, for a 3 ft., about 10<i>s.</i></p>
+
+<p>Masts, booms, &amp;c., of bamboo canes, at florists,
+who sell cheap bamboos for about 8<i>d.</i> per dozen for
+gardening purposes; the best can be selected, and they
+will serve for masts, all the spars of a 2 ft. boat, and
+for booms, gaffs, and topmasts of 3 ft. boats. Bamboos
+for the mast, bowsprit, and mainboom of 3 ft. boats
+can be got at fishing-tackle shops and toy shops; both
+sell cheap bamboo fishing-rods at about 3<i>d.</i> each.
+They can be easily selected of the required thickness
+and length. Excellent bamboo canes for booms, gaffs,
+and topmasts can also be obtained at umbrella shops
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span>and stick shops, but they cost more—1<i>d.</i>, 2<i>d.</i>, or 3<i>d.</i>,
+and even 6<i>d.</i> each.</p>
+
+<p>Twine, white line, &amp;c., for standing and running
+rigging, can be had at fishing-tackle or cord and twine
+shops.</p>
+
+<p>Calico and tape at any linendrapers.</p>
+
+<p>Lead at any plumber’s shop, 2<i>d.</i> or 3<i>d.</i> per lb.</p>
+
+<p>Paint and copal at any oilman’s. Paint 6<i>d.</i> or 8<i>d.</i>
+per lb. Copal varnish about 1<i>s.</i> per pint; 3<i>d.</i> worth
+is enough for a 3 ft. boat.</p>
+
+<p>Brass and copper wire at most ironmongers, as also
+screw-eyes of any size. If the two former cannot be
+readily obtained, Messrs. Jackson and Sons, 17, Sun
+Street, Finsbury, keep every size in brass and copper
+wire, and every thickness in brass and copper sheets;
+all these are sold by weight.</p>
+
+<p>All sizes of rings can be had at fishing-tackle shops.
+1<i>d.</i> or 2<i>d.</i> per dozen.</p>
+
+<p>Ferrules or bands for tipping the ends of spars to
+prevent them splitting, can be got at fishing-tackle
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span>shops, and the amateur builder can file off any length
+required; they are very cheap. For small bands, pipe
+mounts are excellent, very light and thin, and easily
+cut to any length. Most tobacconists keep them in all
+sizes, 1<i>d.</i> or 2<i>d.</i> each.</p>
+
+<p>If the boat builder cannot get or make bands, lash
+or bind the ends of the spars neatly and strongly with
+good white thread, and then paint it well with copal.
+It will answer every purpose, but does not look so
+neat and trim.</p>
+
+<p>Lastly, slides can be made of any hard wood as well
+as of bone, and the requisite holes bored with a bradawl,
+and then seared with a red-hot skewer.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="GLOSSARY">
+    <span class="sm">GLOSSARY.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<blockquote class="hang2">
+<p><span class="smcap">Abaft, Aft</span>, towards the stern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Amidships</span>, middle of a ship or anything.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Backstay</span>, ropes which support the mast
+sideways and backwards.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Beam</span>, breadth of a vessel, also the support
+of the deck.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Board</span>, the distance sailed on one tack.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bobstay</span>, the rope that keeps the bowsprit
+down; reaches from end of
+bowsprit to cutwater.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Boom</span>, any spar used to extend the foot
+of a sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bow</span>, front part of a vessel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bowsprit</span>, spar projecting in front of a
+vessel to set the jibs on.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bulwarks</span>, the wooden railings round
+the deck of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Chock</span>, piece of wood to hold anything
+firmly.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Close</span>, a vessel being as near the direction
+of the wind as she can go without
+shaking.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Counter</span>, the projection of the stem.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cutwater</span>, the sharp part of the bow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Deck</span>, the covering of the ship to keep
+the water out, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Draw</span>, a ship draws so much water, <i>i.e.</i> it
+is so many feet in the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Entrance</span>, the forward part of the
+bottom of a vessel, tapered off to the
+cutwater, so as to cleave the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fall off</span>, when a vessel turns from the
+direction of the wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Foot</span>, bottom of a mast or sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fore and Aft</span>, any sail which does not
+cross the mast.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Foresail</span>, sail in forepart of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Forward</span>, fore part of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Full</span>, when the sails are distended by
+the wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Full and By</span>, close to the wind yet
+not shaking. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Close</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gaff</span>, the spar which supports the head
+of a fore and aft sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Grummet</span>, a ring made of rope.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gudgeon</span>, a sort of eye-bolt for the
+rudder to work on.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gunwale</span>, top of the side of a ship on
+which the deck is fastened.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Guy</span>, rope to keep and secure the bowsprit,
+&amp;c., laterally.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Halyards</span>, ropes used to hoist the sails.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hatchway</span>, openings in the deck of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Head</span>, top of a mast or sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hoist</span>, height a sail is pulled up.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hold</span>, the inside of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Horse</span>, long bars of iron on which the
+sheets of sails work.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Hull</span>, body of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jaws</span>, any arrangement to secure a gaff
+or boom to a mast, and allow it to
+swing from side to side, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Jib</span>, a three-cornered sail in front of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Keel</span>, the centre of the bottom of a ship.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Laced</span>, tied in a certain way.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Larboard</span>, left.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Leach</span>, edge of a sail, generally the side.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lee</span>, side of a vessel farthest from that
+from which the wind blows.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Lee-way</span>, the side-way motion of a ship
+caused by the side pressure of the
+wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Luff</span>, to go closer to the wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Luff</span> (of a sail), edge of a sail nearest
+the wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Main-Halyards</span>, ropes to hoist the
+mainsail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mainmast</span>, the lower mast in a cutter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Mainsheet</span>, the rope or gear to secure
+and regulate the after lower corner of
+the mainsail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Near</span>, same as close. <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Close</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Off.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Fall off</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Overall</span>, from stem to stern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Pay off.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Fall off</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Peak</span>, the angular head of the mainsail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Peak-Halyards</span>, ropes to hoist the
+outer end of the gaff.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Quarters</span>, both sides of a ship close to
+the stern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Reaching</span>, sailing with the wind abeam
+or nearly so.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Reefing</span>, reducing the sails by tying
+them up smaller.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Run</span>, the after part of the bottom of a
+vessel, tapered off to the sternpost,
+so as to leave the water freely.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Running</span>, sailing with the wind astern
+or nearly so.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Running Gear</span>, any ropes used for
+hoisting the sails or yards.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Selvedge</span>, the even edge of linen, canvas,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Shake</span>, when the sails shake in the
+wind and so lose their power.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sheer</span>, slope of a vessel downwards to
+midships from stem and stern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sheet</span>, ropes used to secure and regulate
+lower after corner of sails.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Standing Gear</span>, any fixed ropes, as
+backstays, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Starboard</span>, right side.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stay</span>, ropes used to support the masts
+forward only.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stem.</span> <i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Cutwater</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Step</span>, socket for heel of mast, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Stern</span>, the after part of a vessel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sternpost</span>, end of keel and run, upon
+which the rudder is fixed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Tack</span>, forward lower corner of a sail.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Tack</span>, to make a zigzag course so as to
+get to windward.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Taut</span>, tight.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Topmast</span>, the second mast from the deck.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Waterline</span>, line of the water on the
+side, &amp;c., of a ship, showing how
+deep she is in the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Weather</span>, side of a vessel, &amp;c., nearest
+the wind.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Windward</span>, in direction of the wind,
+the side from which the wind blows.</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTESTS_ON_THE_OPEN_SEA_BETWEEN">
+    <span class="sm">CONTESTS ON THE OPEN SEA BETWEEN
+    CUTTERS “GOLDEN CREST” AND
+    “STORM ALONG.”</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><i>1st Trial.</i> Strong breeze, rough sea, storm sails, foot of sails
+laced to booms; 1½ miles on each tack. “Storm Along” beat
+on each tack, about 50 yds. to windward.</p>
+
+<p><i>2nd Trial.</i> Large suits, light breeze and sea; 1½ miles on
+each tack. “Storm Along,” all sails laced to booms; “Golden
+Crest,” mainsail free and jib laced. “Storm Along” led a few
+yards once; “Golden Crest” beat, 20 yds. in 2 boards.</p>
+
+<p><i>3rd Trial.</i> Sails as in 2nd Trial, moderate breeze and sea;
+2 boards, 1½ miles each. “Golden Crest” beat, 20 yds. on each.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th Trial.</i> Sails as above, moderate breeze and sea, <i>interchanged
+sails</i>. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile on each tack of
+1 mile length each.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th Trial.</i> Moderate breeze and sea, “Storm Along” own
+sails all free from booms, and “Golden Crest” all laced; 2
+boards of 1 mile each. “Storm Along” beat, ¼ mile to windward.
+x last board of 1 mile; “Golden Crest,” all sails free
+from booms, <i>i.e.</i> both vessels own sails and alike. “Storm
+Along” beat, ¼ mile dead to windward.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th Trial.</i> Gentle breeze and sea, full suits and each their
+own. “Storm Along” beat, 40 yds. to windward in ½ mile
+board. “Golden Crest” headreached a little, this wind and
+sea showing her best points.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="TIME_TABLE_OF_TWO_MODEL_YACHT">
+    <span class="sm">TIME TABLE OF TWO MODEL YACHT
+    REGATTAS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Course once up and down pond, 259 yds. long, 30 yds. wide;
+length of pond being E. and W.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">4 ft. cutters. Wind strong, E. by S. 4 vessels in each heat.
+</p>
+
+<table class="autotable2">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl" rowspan="2">
+Heat
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Start.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Run.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Beat back.
+</td>
+<td class="tdr bb">
+Time.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class="bb">
+
+<td class="tdc">
+H.&nbsp;&nbsp;M.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+H.&nbsp;&nbsp;M.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+H.&nbsp;&nbsp;M.
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+M.&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+1st
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;14
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;16¾
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;23½
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+9½
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2nd
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;33
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;36&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;42¾
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+9¾
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+3rd
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;50
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;53&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+4&nbsp;&nbsp;59&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+9&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+Loser’s
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;4
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;7&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;14¼
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+10¼
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+Final
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;20
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;23¼
+</td>
+<td class="tdc">
+5&nbsp;&nbsp;31&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+<td class="tdr">
+11&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<p>In this race, final heat, the three first winners fouled, and the
+winner of loser’s heat won.</p>
+
+<p class="p2 center">3 ft. cutters. Wind strong, W. by S. Course as above.</p>
+
+
+
+<table class="autotable2">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc" rowspan="2">
+Heat
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Start.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Run.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Beat back.
+</td>
+<td class="tdc bb">
+Time.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr class="bb">
+
+<td class="tdl">
+H. M. S.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+H. M. S.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+H. M. S.
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+M. S.
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+1st
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 14 50
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 18 30
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 26 23
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+11 33
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+2nd
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 35 30
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 39 &nbsp;&nbsp;8
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+5 46 40
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+11 10
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+3rd
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 &nbsp;&nbsp;3 &nbsp;&nbsp;5
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 &nbsp;&nbsp;6 40
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 16 &nbsp;&nbsp;5
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+13 &nbsp;&nbsp;0
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+Loser’s
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 23 &nbsp;&nbsp;5
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 26 30
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 36 10
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+13 &nbsp;&nbsp;5
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">
+Final
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 43 52
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 47 25
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+6 54 50
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">
+10 58
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<p>This last race won by 6 in. only.</p>
+
+<p>By examining above table, it appears to novices almost incredible
+that such precision can be attained in model yacht
+sailing. All the heats were won by a few feet only, and some
+by inches.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span></p>
+
+
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="BEST_WATERS_FOR_SAILING_MODEL_YACHTS">
+    <span class="sm">BEST WATERS FOR SAILING MODEL YACHTS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The best ponds for sailing model yachts in London are: (1)
+Victoria Park Pond, but only when the wind is E. or W. (2)
+Round Pond, Kensington, in any winds, all sides of this pond
+being clear of trees. (3) Serpentine, in any wind.</p>
+
+<p>Hampstead and Highgate ponds are also available, but have
+muddy edges, and seldom a true wind on account of the high
+banks.</p>
+
+<p>There are also good ponds on Clapham Common and
+Peckham Rye.</p>
+
+
+<p class="p2 center"><span class="xsm">GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE, LONDON.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center">
+  <strong>BOOKS OF INSTRUCTION AND AMUSEMENT.</strong><br>
+</p>
+<p class="center p2">
+  <i>THE BOY’S OWN TOY MAKER</i>:
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">A Practical Illustrated Guide to the useful employment of Leisure Hours.
+By <span class="smcap">E. Landels</span>. With 200 Cuts. Ninth Edition. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p>
+
+
+<blockquote class="sm">
+<p>“A new and valuable form of endless amusement.”—<i>Nonconformist.</i></p>
+
+<p>“We recommend it to all who have children to be instructed and amused.”—<i>Economist.</i></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="center p2">
+  <i>THE GIRL’S OWN TOY MAKER</i><br>
+  <span class="sm">AND BOOK OF RECREATION</span>.
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">By E. and A. <span class="smcap">Landels</span>. With 200 Illustrations. New Edition. The
+Eleventh Thousand. Just ready. Price 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p>
+
+
+<blockquote class="sm">
+<p>“Contains a large number of engravings, and gives instruction, with many examples,
+how to make Paper Toys, &amp;c., &amp;c., in which young people especially take
+interest.”—<i>Leeds Mercury.</i></p>
+
+<p>“Within the past few years great advancement has been made in the educational
+system it is meant to encourage, and it is, therefore, all the more likely to obtain a
+still wider circulation.”—<i>Edinburgh Daily Review.</i></p>
+
+<p>“Capital little volume ... will be found a rare prize for families.”—<i>City Press.</i></p>
+
+<p>“We can easily imagine the delight with which a family of children would welcome
+this interesting work.”—<i>Scholastic World.</i></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="center p2">
+  <span class="sm">THE ILLUSTRATED</span><br>
+  <i>PAPER MODEL MAKER</i>;
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">Containing Twelve Subjects and Practical Diagrams for their
+Construction, in an Envelope. Price 2<i>s.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="center p2 sm">
+  GRIFFITH &amp; FARRAN,<br>
+  WEST CORNER OF ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON.<br>
+  E. P. DUTTON &amp; CO., NEW YORK.
+</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter transnote">
+<p class="center"> Transcriber’s Notes.</p>
+
+<p>
+Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently.  Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised.
+</p>
+
+
+<p>A half-title and reiterations of chapter titles have been discarded.</p>
+
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78905 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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+[Project Gutenberg](https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook [#78905](https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78905)