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diff --git a/78838-0.txt b/78838-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..88b5744 --- /dev/null +++ b/78838-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4987 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 *** + + + + +[Illustration] + + + + + FRUITS OF ENTERPRIZE + EXHIBITED IN THE + ADVENTURES OF BELZONI + IN + EGYPT AND NUBIA + + WITH AN ACCOUNT OF + HIS DISCOVERIES IN THE PYRAMIDS, + AMONG THE RUINS OF CITIES, AND IN THE ANCIENT TOMBS. + + “LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.” + + [Illustration] + + A NEW EDITION, REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS. + + NEW YORK: + CHARLES S. FRANCIS, 252 BROADWAY + + BOSTON: + JOSEPH H. FRANCIS, 128 WASHINGTON STREET. + + 1843. + + + + +NOTICE. + + +Placed in an amphitheatre of boundless extent, and surrounded by an +immense variety of objects, young persons are naturally inquisitive, +and delighted with every new accession of knowledge; and as truth is no +longer deemed incompatible with amusement, the most pleasing mode of +conveying the former appears to be to blend it with the latter. + +Influenced by this belief, the compiler of this little volume was +induced to place it in the “Library of Instructive Amusement;” she +is happy in having an opportunity of acknowledging her thanks to the +enterprising traveller, who politely gave her his permission to do so. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + + Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni introduced.--Motives + for his going into Egypt.--Poor success of his hydraulic machine.--His + thoughts turned towards the Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in + removing Young Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy + cave.--Deceit of the Arabs. 13 + + CHAPTER II. + + Egyptian Customs.--Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.--Visits the + Island of Elephantis.--Arrives at Ybsambul.--Attempts to open its + magnificent Temple.--Obliged for want of time and money to give + up the project.--Visits the little island of Mainarty.--Danger + on the Cataract.--Returns to Thebes.--Removal of Young Memnon to + Cairo.--Belzoni resides for a short time at Rosetta. 45 + + CHAPTER III. + + Bernard’s perseverance.--Belzoni’s second Voyage.--Rapid Journey + from Minieh to Thebes.--Superb Temple at Carnac.--Works carried + on both at Gournou and Carnac.--Mummy Caves.--Belzoni’s object + in entering them.--Manufactures of the ancient Egyptians.--Their + Idols.--Curious Habitations at Gournou.--He revisits Ybsambul.--Opens + the Temple.--Returns highly gratified to Thebes. 70 + + CHAPTER IV. + + Emily amused with a description of Greenland.--Belzoni makes the valley + of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.--He enters and explores + the tomb of Psammuthis.--Receives a visit from Hamed Aga.--Returns + to Cairo.--Visits the Pyramids.--Time and purpose of their erection + uncertain.--Enters one which for more than one thousand years had + appeared a solid mass of stones. 101 + + CHAPTER V. + + Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going there.--Inundation + of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the Desert.--Account of Ababde, an + independent tribe, residing among the rocks on the coast of the Red + Sea.--Journey in search for the ancient city of Berenice. 126 + + CHAPTER VI. + + Search for the ancient city of Berenice.--The boats of the Ababde + fishermen described.--Discovers the remains of the Berenice mentioned + by a former traveller.--Returns towards Esne.--Meets with two shepherd + girls tending their sheep on the mountains.--Sufferings of travellers + in crossing the Deserts.--The caravan reaches the banks of the + Nile.--Belzoni returns to Gournou. 140 + + CHAPTER VII. + + Dr. Franklin’s kite.--Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar by means of + a paper kite.--Removal of the obelisk from the Island of Philoe.--It + falls into the Nile.--Ingenious method of raising it.--It is launched + down the cataract.--Arrives in safety in Rosetta.--Belzoni goes to + Beban el Malook.--Completes his drawings and models of the Tomb.--Bids + final adieu to Thebes.--Traverses the Western Desert in search of the + Temple of Jupiter Ammon.--Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.--Reaches the + Lake Mœris.--Rose-trees in profusion. 156 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the rocks near + the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the famous Labyrinth.--Visit + to the Elloah.--An interview with Khalil Bey.--Account of + the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the Desert attended by Scheik + Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at + Zaboo.--Interview with the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni + goes to their village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets + with an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches + Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to + England. 172 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +CONTAINING A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE LAST DAYS OF BELZONI. + + +Since the first appearance of this little work, the enterprising +individual whose discoveries it relates, and who gave his permission +for its publication, has departed this life. It was hoped that through +his means some account of places, imperfectly described by others, +might have been obtained; but the decree of Providence has prevented +the accomplishment of so desirable an object. The following short +account of his latter days will not be considered an improper appendage +to the work:-- + + “Died at Gato, near Benin, in Africa, on the 3d of December + 1823, Mr. G. BELZONI, so well known for his Egyptian tombs. He + was so far on his way into the interior, endeavouring to reach + Houssa, when a dysentery put an end to his valuable life. He + was buried at Gato the day after his decease, and a board, with + the following inscription, was placed over his grave:-- + + HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF + + G. BELZONI, + + Who was attacked with Dysentery, at Benin, + (on his way to Houssa and Timbuctoo,) + on the 26th of November, and died + at this place, + December 3d, 1823. + + “Mr. Belzoni had been landed by Captain Filmore, R. N. at + Benin. Captain Filmore exerted himself arduously in assisting + the intrepid traveller, and discharged a man from his vessel, + who was a native of Houssa, that he might accompany Mr. B. on + his route. The following extract of a letter contains most + of the late particulars respecting this enterprising and + scientific individual:-- + + “On the night of the 24th of November, Mr. Belzoni left us, + with Mr. Houtson, for Gato. On parting with us he seemed a + little agitated, particularly when the crew of the brig which + brought him, (to each of whom he had made a present) gave him + three loud cheers on leaving the vessel? “God bless you, my + fine fellows! and send you a happy sight of your country and + friends!” Was his answer. On the 3d of December I received + a letter from Mr. Houtson, requesting me to come to Benin, + as Mr. B. was lying dangerously ill; and, in case of death, + wished a second person to be present. I was prevented going, + not only by business, but by a severe fever which had then hold + of me. On the 5th, I had a second letter from Mr. H. with + the particulars of Mr. B.’s end; and one from himself, almost + illegible, dated December 2, requesting me to assist in the + disposal of his effects, and to remit the proceeds home to his + agents, Messrs Briggs, Brothers & Co, America Square, London, + together with a beautiful Amethyst ring, which he seemed + particularly desirous should be delivered to his wife, with the + assurance that he died in the fullest affection for her, as he + found himself too weak to write his last wishes and adieus. + + “At the time of Mr. Belzoni’s death, Mr. Houtson had every + thing arranged with the King of Benin for his departure, and, + had his health continued, there is no doubt he would have + succeeded. Mr. Belzoni passed at Benin as an inhabitant, or + rather native, of the interior, who had come to England when a + youth, and was now trying to return to his country. The kings + and emigrands (or nobles) gave credit to this, Mr. Belzoni + being in a Moorish dress, with his beard nearly a foot in + length. There was, however, some little jealousy amongst them, + which was removed by a present or two, well applied; and the + King of Benin’s messenger was to accompany Mr. Belzoni with + the King’s cane, and as many men as were considered necessary + for a guard and baggage-carriers. The King’s name is respected + as far as Houssa, and he has a messenger, or ambassador, + stationary there. On Mr. Belzoni’s arrival at Houssa, he was + to leave his guard there, and proceed to Timbuctoo, the King + not guaranteeing his safety farther than Houssa, and Timbuctoo + not being known at Benin. On his return to Houssa, he would + make the necessary preparations for going down the Niger, and + despatch his messengers and guard back with letters to his + agents and to Mr. John Houtson: the messenger to be rewarded + according to the account the letters gave of his behaviour, and + the King to receive a valuable stated present. This was the + plan, and I think it would have proved fortunate, had Mr. B. + lived. + + “Mr. Belzoni was a native of Padua, and had known England many + years. He first visited Egypt with a view of erecting hydraulic + engines for the Pasha, to assist in irrigating the country. + In stature, he was above six feet and a half, and possessed + of great bodily strength. His manners and deportment were + marked by great suavity and mildness, and he had a genuine love + for science in all its branches. He was brave, ardent, and + persevering in pursuit of his objects; and his decease at the + moment of a strong hope of success, must be deeply felt by all + who estimate the true interests of science and the light of + discovery at their true value!” + +[Illustration] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni + introduced.--Motives for his going into Egypt.--Poor success + of his hydraulic machine.--His thoughts turned towards the + Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in removing Young + Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy + cave.--Deceit of the Arabs. + + +“The last--the very last pyramid! dear Laura,” exclaimed the little +Bernard, as he climbed upon his sister’s chair, and surveyed a sketch +that she was copying, from one in a large folio volume. + +“And now, when you have shaded the side of that pyramid, will you draw +the wheel of my cart? I am quite, quite tired of your tombs, and your +pillars, and your ruins, and your monuments, falling this way and that +way:--I would much rather know how to draw the spokes of the wheels of +my little cart:--it is impossible for me to finish my picture;--you see +I have made my wagon turning down a shady lane,--it is evening--the +lamps are lit on the posts--the moon is peeping behind the trees, and +the smoke is rising from the chimnies of my carter’s cottage--but my +poor cart has no wheels because I cannot draw spokes--and now, is that +tiresome pyramid done, dear Laura?” + +“If you knew all that render those pyramids so interesting to Laura, +my love,” said Bernard’s mother, “you would not be in such great haste +to see them finished; indeed I believe you would willingly give up the +pleasure of seeing your own little picture completed, to watch your +sister draw hers.” + +“Indeed, mother!” exclaimed the lively boy--“where are they, and why do +you think that the account of them will amuse me so much?” + +“My story is a long one,” replied his mother, “so I will not begin it +till after tea, and then we can go on without interruption.” + +“Oh, mamma! that will be delightful! quite delightful! for we can have +a settled evening; and as to my cart, Laura may put in the spokes +to-morrow--the wheels will not signify for one night, will they, +mother?” exclaimed Bernard, and, without waiting for an answer, he +jumped up, fetched his little straw hat from its hook in the hall, and +ran across the lawn to tell Owen and Emily, who were busily engaged +training a white clematis round one of the pillars of the alcove. They +quickly returned together. Tea was despatched, and the cheerful group +repaired to the library. The maps were laid open on the library table. +Laura seated herself between her two brothers, and Emily whose blue +eyes sparkled with joy, placed herself by the side of her mother. + +“And now, why do you think that Laura’s picture would please me so +much, mother?” said Bernard; “where are those pyramids?” + +“Think for a moment, my dear. Do you not know the name of the country +so renowned for these famous mementos of ancient art?--you have often +been told.” + +Bernard paused--“In Egypt, mother,--in Egypt, an ancient kingdom of +Africa.” + +“Can you give me any account of Egypt--do you know anything respecting +that country?” + +Bernard paused again, but Emily looked up wishfully and said, + +“May I tell you what I know, mother?” Her mother nodded assent. + +“Egypt,” said Emily, “consists of a narrow vale on both sides of the +Nile, bounded by ridges of mountains or hills. Nubia is on the south; +on the west it joins the great sandy deserts; on the north it is washed +by the Mediterranean; and on the east by the Red Sea, except where it +is joined to Asia by the narrow neck of land called the Isthmus of +Suez.” + +“I recollect more about Egypt, now that Emily mentions the Nile,” +exclaimed her little brother: “I have often heard of the rushes that +grew on the banks of that river--the people used to make their paper +of them, and write all their books upon it--all that they wrote--they +placed the thin leaves of the stem one over the other, then flattened +them, and platted them as Fanny plats her little paper mats; so that +one leaf lay one way and another another way, and then they were stuck +together with the muddy water of the Nile, and the leaves were dried +and pressed with heavy weights--and rubbed and pressed again a great +many times.” + +“And,” said Owen, “papa has often told us that in Egypt there is +very little rain, and that the Nile at certain periods overflows its +banks, and carries with its waters a rich mud, which renders the soil +fruitful, without that labour which the farmers in England are obliged +to bestow, before the fields are fit to receive the grain. In Egypt, +they have only to put the seeds into the ground.” + +“But if the Nile should not overflow, just when they expected it,” said +Bernard, “what would they do then?” + +“This sometimes happens,” said Laura, “but you will hear by and by +of the means which have been taken to prevent the famine which is +generally occasioned by such a calamity, and of the mode which is +used to supply the deficiency, if the river do not afford its usual +assistance.” + +“Well, mamma,” said Owen, “now that we know where Egypt is--now for +the pyramids:--whereabouts are they, and for what purpose were they +erected?” + +“Not so fast, my love. Let us proceed gradually. I have not yet told +you that Egypt is divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower; and that it is +a country renowned in history, having been once the seat, if not the +parent of the sciences. It is not only remarkable for those surprising +monuments of antiquity, the famous pyramids, which baffle the +researches of the deepest antiquary to fix upon their origin, but also +for many other “glorious structures,” astonishing remains of ancient +temples, pompous palaces, obelisks, columns, statues, and paintings. +Thus is Egypt rendered so interesting; and it is at the present time +peculiarly so to us, because a gentleman has lately, with indefatigable +zeal, made many researches in that country, and his curious discoveries +among the pyramids and temples have excited the public attention in no +small degree. He has spent many years in this arduous employment, and +is now amply compensated in knowing that they have not been spent in +vain.” + +“Oh, mamma!” exclaimed Emily, “tell me the name of this gentleman:--why +did he go there? Was he fond of antiquities? How did he manage to enter +the pyramids? and what did he find in them?” + +“I cannot give a reply to so many questions in a breath, my little +girl; however, I will answer one of them:--the name of the gentleman I +mentioned is BELZONI.” + +“A native of England, mamma?” + +“No; a native of Padua.” + +“Padua, an ancient, large, and celebrated city of Italy,” said Laura, +as she pointed to the map. + +“Is it all true that you are going to tell us, mother?” said Owen. + +“Perfectly true. The account I purpose giving you of Egypt and Nubia is +taken from Belzoni’s own Travels, recently published: you may therefore +rely on its correctness. + +“Unfortunate circumstances falling out in his native country, compelled +Belzoni to leave it, and about twenty years ago he came to England. +Here he married, and contrived to live on his own industry, and the +knowledge he had acquired in various branches whilst at Rome, in +which city he had spent many of his juvenile hours. He now turned +his thoughts to hydraulics, a science to which he had before paid +attention, and which in the end was the principal cause of his going +into Egypt.” + +“I must interrupt you dear mamma,” said Bernard; “will you tell me what +is meant by _hydraulics_, and why Belzoni should go into Egypt on that +account?” + +“The science which has for its object the motion of fluids is called +hydraulics, and its principal object is to furnish us with the means +of conducting water from one situation to another by canals or other +means. Belzoni imagined that a hydraulic machine would be of great use +in Egypt to irrigate the fields, which want water only to make them +produce at any time of the year.” + +“Then the soil is fertile, and the climate warm, I suppose, mamma?” +said Owen. + +“Yes: the soil of Egypt is particularly noted for the fertility +occasioned by its wonderful river; and, while thinking of this, we are +led to observe the two beautiful prospects which, owing to it, Egypt +exhibits at two seasons of the year. During _our_ summer the climate +_there_ is excessively warm, and it is impossible to describe a scene +more delightful than that which the country presents at the first +overflowing of the Nile; the spectator beholds a spacious sea, spotted +with innumerable towns and villages, sometimes contrasted with groves +of palm-trees, while a magnificent display of sylvan and mountainous +scenery bounds the extensive prospect. + +“On the contrary, if the view be taken when _our_ gardens and fields +are clothed in the robes of winter, the whole country _there_ resembles +one large meadow, covered with the finest verdure, and enamelled with +the choicest flowers; the plains embellished with flocks and herds; the +air, pure and salubrious, scented with orange and lemon blossoms, which +blow in luxuriance.” + +“I should like to live in Egypt, mamma!” exclaimed Bernard. + +“But inconveniences are to be met with there, as well as every where +else, my love. The heat is oppressive to all who are unused to it: +indeed, the southerly winds are sometimes so sultry as to oblige the +natives to immure themselves in vaults or caves; and not unfrequently +these winds raise such clouds of sand as to obscure the light of +the sun, and, even to those who are used to them, to be almost +insupportable. The people call them poisonous winds, or winds of the +Desert, and, during the three days that they generally last, the +streets are forsaken; and in a melancholy condition is the unfortunate +traveller, whom they surprise remote from shelter.” + +“I wonder,” exclaimed Emily, “whether Belzoni ever encountered them. +Do you think he did, mamma?” + +“I will begin my account, and then you may hear a description of the +various adventures he met with.” + +Mrs. A. then began to relate some circumstances of _Belzoni’s +Researches in Egypt and Nubia_, as follows. + +Some years after Mr. Belzoni had resided in England, he formed the +resolution of going to the south of Europe; and, taking Mrs. Belzoni +with him, he visited Portugal and Spain, and afterwards the small +but important isle of Malta, which lies to the south of Sicily, +and is celebrated for its fine port and for the strength of its +fortifications, now belonging to Great Britain. Hence they embarked for +Egypt, and arrived in safety in Alexandria, on the seacoast. + +On entering the harbour of this city, Belzoni was informed that the +plague was there. To an European, who had never been in that country, +this was alarming intelligence. Happily, however, it nearly ceased in +a short time; and as his principal view was to go on to Cairo, the +capital of Egypt, he hired a boat, and they embarked with an English +gentleman, who was going up the Nile. + +This city is one hundred miles from the mouth of the Nile. Owing to +contrary winds, it was some days before our travellers landed at +Boolac, within a mile of it. At this place a bustling scene presented +itself, and the majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various +costumes, Arabs of many tribes, boats, camels, horses, and asses, all +in motion formed a striking picture. Immediately after landing, they +went to Cairo; but, as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta +could not receive women within their walls, they were accommodated in +an old house at Boolac, belonging to a gentleman, the interpreter and +director of all foreign affairs of Mahomed Ali, the Turkish Viceroy, or +Bashaw, by whom Egypt is governed. + +He was a man of great acuteness of understanding, and well disposed +towards strangers; which was fortunate for Belzoni as he had to apply +through this gentleman to the Bashaw respecting his hydraulic machine, +for which purpose he went to Egypt. + +Travellers are frequently obliged to submit to inconvenience, and so +were ours. The house they inhabited was so old and out of repair, that +it appeared every moment as though ready to fall on their heads: all +the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was +in so bad a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door +was merely fastened by a pole placed against it, having neither lock +nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in the +house, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state. +The whole furniture consisted of a single mat, in one of the best +rooms, which they considered as the drawing-room. + +No chairs are to be had in this country; so they sat on the ground, +and a box or a trunk served as a table. Fortunately, they had a few +plates, as well as knives and forks; and James, an Irish lad, whom they +took with them, procured a set of culinary articles. + +Such were the accommodations our enterprising travellers met with at +Boolac! + +Although Belzoni’s chief object was not to see antiquities at that +time, yet he felt desirous of visiting the famous pyramids, which are +at the foot of those mountains that separate Egypt from Libya. + +MRS. A.--The English gentleman who accompanied Belzoni up the Nile +obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw, and went with him to +the pyramids one evening, intending to ascend one of them the following +morning to see the sun rise. Accordingly, they were on the top long +before the dawn of day. The scene they beheld delighted them, being +grand and majestic beyond description. A mist over the wide sandy +plains formed a veil which vanished gradually as the sun rose, and +at length opened to their view that beautiful land, once the site of +Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids, on the south, marked +the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn spectacle of the +immense sandy desert on the west, stretching as far as the eye could +reach, inspired sublimer feelings. The fertile land on the North, with +the winding course of the Nile descending towards the sea; the rich +appearance of Cairo and its glittering minarets; the beautiful plain, +which extends from the pyramids to that city: the thick groves of +palm-trees in the midst of the fertile valley, altogether formed a +scene Belzoni was well calculated to enjoy. + +There are steps on the outside of the pyramids by which they can ascend. + +Having gratified his admiration, he went with his friend round the next +pyramid, examined several of the mausoleums, and returned to Cairo, +highly delighted with having seen a wonder they had long desired, but +never supposed they should have the pleasure of beholding. + +A few days after this time, a party was formed to go to Sacara by +water. After visiting the pyramids at that place, they returned to +Cairo, except Mr. Turner, the English gentleman, and Belzoni, who went +on to Dajior, and examined the remains of many other pyramids there. +When they came back to the Nile, it was quite night, and they had to +pass several villages before they reached a place where they could +embark for Cairo. Their road lay through a cluster of palm-trees, +which, as the moon was just rising, had a solemn effect. Some of the +Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes of their tambourines, and, +forgetting their masters, the Turks, were happy for a time. At length, +Belzoni and his friend took a small boat, and arrived in Cairo before +morning. Two days after this time, the former was to be presented to +the Bashaw on the subject of his hydraulic project. + +We should hope the Bashaw would be pleased with it, after Belzoni had +taken so much pains to promote the comfort of his people. But poor +Belzoni met with an unfortunate accident, which detained him for some +time. He received a violent blow on the leg, from a soldier who was +passing on horseback, and was obliged to be taken to the convent of +Terrasanta. + +It must have been very desolate to be laid up at such a place; and +yet the convent was, perhaps, more comfortable than the old house at +Boolac. I think that cruel soldier had never heard the golden rule, +“Do as you would be done by,” for the common feelings of humanity were +strangers to his bosom. Belzoni, however was well enough in a few days +to be presented to the Bashaw. + +OWEN.--I do not like to interrupt you, mamma; but is the Bashaw in the +place of a King? What sort of government is it in Egypt? + +MRS. A.--The form of government in Egypt is called an aristocracy, +that is, a republican state, wherein the supreme power is consigned to +nobles and peers. Since Egypt has been under the dominion of the Turks, +it has been governed by a Bashaw, who resides at Cairo, and who has +under him inferior governors in several parts of the country. + +The inhabitants of Egypt are composed of different races of people. +The Turks, who think themselves entitled to be masters of the country, +because the Arabs (who were another race) were conquered by them; then +there are the Copts, who are descended from the first Egyptians; as +well as many others, under different denominations. + +And now, having wandered from our subject we will pursue it, and relate +some of Belzoni’s adventures. + +Adventures are delightful things, provided an escape follows. + +Belzoni made an arrangement with the Bashaw, and undertook to erect a +machine which would raise as much water with one ox as the machines of +the country with four. + +There was reason to expect that Mahomed Ali might be of too indolent a +disposition to admire any thing new: he was a Turk you know, and the +Turks are famed for their indolence. A person of an enervated turn of +mind cannot derive so much pleasure from a new project as one of a more +active disposition. Ali, however, received our Belzoni very civilly, +and was much pleased with his proposition. And well he might be, when +he could foresee that, if put in execution, it would spare the expense +and labour of many thousands of oxen. + +Belzoni now commenced his hydraulic machine. It was to be erected in +Soubra, at the garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles from +Cairo. He had many difficulties to encounter, Bernard; for the very +persons who were necessary to furnish him with wood, iron, carpentry, +and so on, unfortunately recollected that they should be the first +to suffer by it, if the machine succeeded. However success is secure +unless energy fails, and Belzoni in time saw his water machine +completed. But as he was some time at Soubra, perhaps you may like to +hear how he passed the intervals, when unoccupied by his work. + +You see that a great deal depends upon the turn which is given to our +early pursuits. The science of hydraulics first became familiar to +Belzoni when he was a boy in Rome. I dare say he did not then think of +going to Egypt? + +During his stay at Soubra, Belzoni became acquainted with many Turks, +and particularly with the governor of the palace, as his house was +within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw was under his care, and +a guard was kept at the gates. The seraglio is so situated that it +overlooks the Nile; at the back of it is a beautiful garden under the +care of the Greeks, and kept in excellent order. It is ornamented with +green bowers overhung with flowering shrubs, and alcoves in the form of +little cupolas, around which the fragrant plants twine their numerous +tendrils, whilst water machines constantly at work, kept up a perpetual +verdure. Belzoni’s were not actually the _first_ water machines in use +in Egypt, but much larger than any before known there, and the best +calculated to answer any important purpose. You, Emily, who are so fond +of flowers, will perhaps smile at the amusements which delight the +Bashaw far more highly than watching the progress of his shrubs and +plants. In the evening, when the sun is declining in the west, he quits +the seraglio, and seats himself on the banks of the Nile, with his +guards, to fire at an earthen pot on the opposite side. + +[Illustration] + +If Mahomed Ali be no botanist, he is an excellent marksman; for I +believe the river at Soubra is wider than the Thames at Westminster +Bridge. + +When it is dark he retires into the garden, and reposes in a shady +alcove, or by the margin of some bubbling fountain, with all his +attendants around him, who endeavour to amuse him, and make him feel +in good humour with himself, whilst the murmuring of the waters, the +lively tunes of the musical instruments, and the soft beams of the moon +reflected upon the surface of the Nile, heightened the pleasure of the +scene. Here Belzoni was often admitted, and thus had an opportunity +of observing the domestic life of a man, who from nothing rose to be +viceroy of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful tribes of Arabia. + +The Bashaw seemed to be well aware of the benefit that might be derived +from his encouraging the arts of Europe in his country, and had already +reaped some of the fruits of it. The manufacture of gunpowder, the +refining of sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk manufacture +were introduced much to his advantage; he is constantly inquiring after +something new, and is delighted with any novelty. He had heard of +electricity, and he sent to England for two electrical machines. + +Do you remember, Bernard, the shock you all received from the one in +papa’s study, when you held a little chain, and Emily held your hand, +and Owen hers, and we all jumped together? + +One of Mahomed Ali’s machines was broken by the way; the other was +dismounted. No one could be found who knew how to set it up. Belzoni +happened to be at the garden one night when they were attempting it, +and he was requested to put the pieces together; having done so, +he desired one of the soldiers to mount the insulating stool, when +charging the machine, he gave the Turk a good shock, who being thus +struck unawares, uttered a loud cry and jumped off extremely terrified. +The Bashaw laughed at the man for doing so, supposing his alarm was +a pretence and not the effect of the machine; and when told that it +was actually occasioned by the machine, he positively affirmed that +it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance that it was +impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power. + +Belzoni desired the interpreter to inform his Highness that if he would +have the goodness to mount the stool, he would be convinced of the +fact. He hesitated a moment whether to believe it or not; however he +mounted the stool. Belzoni charged well, put the little chain into his +hand, and gave him a smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on +feeling the effect of the electricity, and threw himself on the sofa, +laughing immoderately and unable to conceive how the machine could have +such power on the human body. + +[Illustration] + +You may imagine how very droll Mahomed Ali must have looked when he was +standing upon that little stool, and especially when he found himself +forced to jump off! + +The Arabs of Soubra display as much festivity when a marriage of +consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt. +One happened while Belzoni was there, and as the windows of his house +overlooked the spot where it was performed, he had an opportunity of +witnessing the ceremony. Early in the morning of the grand holiday, a +high pole was reared in the centre of the place with a banner or flag +belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gathered under it, +and preparations were made for an illumination with glass lamps; music +was prepared, &c. + +The Arabs from other villages came to the feast also, beating their +tambourines and waving their flags; but they remained at some distance +from the pole until invited to advance. + +The old people seated themselves around and under the pole, and the +strangers were placed at a little distance. One of them began to +sing, while the rest divided themselves into two parties, forming two +circles, one within the other round the pole, and facing each other. + +Each man put his arms over his neighbours’ shoulders, and thus formed +a chain. The outer circle stood still, while the people of the inner +circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those on the +outer. Thus they continued three hours, and those who were not in the +circles made separate rings by themselves. This is the mode of dancing +among the Arabs. + +All the women were at a distance by themselves, and among them was the +bride. When the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down, and a +great quantity of boiled rice was brought to them in wooden bowls, as +well as some dishes of melokie and bamies, which are plants eaten in +common by the Arabs as greens, and three or four sheep roasted, which +were soon torn to pieces and devoured. A number of boys were fully +employed during the whole ceremony in fetching water from the Nile. At +night the little coloured lamps were lighted, a band of tambourines +played continually, and the entertainment ended as it had commenced, +with a dance. + +And now, let us turn to Belzoni. He completed his undertaking in +time. The machine was constructed on the principle of a crane with a +walking wheel, in which a single ox, by its own weight alone, could +effect as much as four oxen employed in the machines of the country. +Belzoni managed to prepare it in spite of the difficulties he had to +encounter with the self-interested workmen; he was of too enterprising +a disposition to give up a work which was the chief cause of his going +into that country. + +BERNARD.--Before you go on, mamma, will you tell me what you mean by a +crane?--there is a picture of a crane in my Bewick--but I cannot at all +make out what is meant by a _crane with a walking wheel_. + +MRS. A.--The crane of which I speak, Bernard, is not a _bird_--but +a machine used in building, for raising and lowering huge stones, +heavy weights, and sometimes water, you see. It is a technical term in +mechanics, and I will try by and bye to explain to you what is meant by +a crane with a walking wheel. + +The Bashaw came to Soubra to examine the hydraulic machine. It was set +to work and succeeded admirably, drawing in the same space of time six +or seven times as much water as the common machines. + +[Illustration] + +Belzoni thought himself well repaid. And the Egyptian farmers might now +sow their seed without being afraid of a famine--even if the Nile did +not overflow, they could raise water, and water their fields so well. + +Our best endeavours, however, though they sometimes appear at first +crowned with success, may afterwards defeat the purpose for which they +were intended. So it was with those of our ingenious friend. The Bashaw +took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order +to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would have by putting +fifteen men into it. Poor James, the Irish lad you know, had entered +along with them, but no sooner had the wheel turned once round than +they all jumped out, leaving the boy alone in it. The wheel, of course, +overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity +that the catch was unable to stop it. James was thrown out, and in the +fall broke one of his thighs. Belzoni contrived to stop the wheel +before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him. + +The Turks are so superstitious, that they considered such an accident +happening to a new invention as a bad omen--and thus Belzoni’s +ingenuity was thrown away. The Bashaw was persuaded to abandon the +affair, and the project of Belzoni being thus consigned to oblivion, he +turned his thoughts to the antiquities of the country, and, possessing +a spirit for investigation, determined to make some researches. + +A gentleman of the name of Burckhardt, had for a long time premeditated +the removal of a colossal bust, known by the name of young Memnon, to +England, and had often tried to persuade Ali to send it as a present +to his Majesty; however, the Turk did not suppose it worth sending to +so great a person. But Belzoni, knowing how much that gentleman wished +it, proposed to undertake its conveyance from Thebes to Alexandria, +and, with the Bashaw’s consent, to forward it from thence to England. +He now, therefore, prepared to go up the Nile. He was then at Soubra, +three miles from Cairo. It was intended to present this immense statue +to the British Museum, and he was directed to search for it on the +southern side of a ruined temple, in the vicinity of a village called +Gournou, near Carnac. You can trace the course of the Nile from Cairo, +upon the map, until you find Carnac just by Thebes. Gournou is near it. + +Belzoni was requested to spare neither expense nor trouble, in getting +it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible. So he +hired a boat, with four sailors, a boy, and a captain. Every thing +was soon ready for their departure from Soubra. The whole of the +implements, for the operation of removing the bust, consisted of a few +poles and ropes of palm-leaves. Mrs. Belzoni accompanied her husband, +and they agreed to stay and examine any ruins they might pass on the +road. James, the Irish boy was, happily, able to accompany them. And +now, you must follow their course on the map, from Boolac, where they +embarked, to Thebes. In six days they arrived at Siout, the capital of +Upper Egypt, and from thence they went to Acmin, where they landed to +visit the fathers of a convent: and again proceeded, with curiosity +highly raised, towards the noted temple of Tentyra. This is the first +Egyptian temple the traveller sees, on ascending the Nile, as well as +the most magnificent. + +It is two miles from the Nile, and Belzoni and his party having landed, +set off on asses, and proceeded to the ruins. Little could be seen of +the temple, till they were near it, as it is surrounded by high mounds +of rubbish. + +When he arrived there, he was for some time at a loss to know in +what part to begin his examinations. The numerous objects before +him struck him with surprise and astonishment--the immense masses +of stone employed in the edifice--the majestic appearance of its +construction--the variety of its ornaments, and the excellent +preservation in which he found it, had such an effect on Belzoni, that +he seated himself on the ground, lost in delight and admiration. + +This temple is the cabinet of the Egyptian arts,--and it is supposed +to have been built during the reign of the first Ptolemy. It is not +improbable that he who studied to render himself beloved by his +people, might erect such an edifice to convince the Egyptians of his +superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious +devotion. + +It will take us too long to describe this famous temple minutely. When +Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni had gratified their curiosity, they returned to +their little boat, and embarked for Thebes. They will soon have reached +the end of their voyage, and then for the great colossal bust. + +Belzoni says, that it is impossible to imagine the scene displayed by +the extensive ruins at Thebes. It appeared to him, on entering it, like +a city of giants, who were all destroyed, leaving only the remains of +various temples, as proofs of their former existence. The attention is +attracted on one side, by towering ruins, that project above a noble +wood of palm-trees, and there the traveller enters an endless number of +temples, columns, obelisks, and portals. On every side he finds himself +among wonders. The immense colossal figures in the plains, the number +of tombs hollowed in the rocks, those in the great valley of the kings, +with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, and figures, are all objects +worthy of admiration, and one cannot fail to wonder how a nation, +which was once so great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so +far fall into oblivion, that even its language and writing are totally +unknown to us. + +Having taken a survey of this seat of ancient grandeur, Belzoni crossed +the Nile, and bent his way towards the ruined temple, near Gournou. +It stands elevated above the plain; he entered the groups of columns, +regarding the numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind them, +and his first thought was to examine the bust he had to take away. + +He found it on the southern side of the temple, near the remains of its +body and chair with the face upwards. It was beautiful, and of immense +size. Laura, who has seen it in the British Museum, will be able to +give you a more accurate account of it. + +BERNARD.--I cannot imagine, mamma, how Belzoni could attempt to remove +it; you know he had only some poles, and some ropes of palm-leaves--and +palm-ropes, made ever so strong, would not be able to support such +a weight. I think he had better have contrived a car, somewhat like +that the African sheep has to rest its tail upon, in “Church’s +cabinet,”--and by this means he might have brought it to the Nile, and +then had it placed in a boat, and conveyed to Cairo. + +MRS. A.--No bad scheme, my little boy! Belzoni’s whole set of +implements consisted of fourteen poles, eight of which he did employ +in making a car, similar to what you have proposed; four ropes of +palm-leaves, and four rollers--they were better than wheels; and he now +began to be very busy. + +As the bust was some way from the Nile, it would have been too far +for them to go to sleep in the boat every night; so a small hut was +formed for them with stones, among the ruins of the temple. They were +not very handsomely lodged, but perhaps they found this little hut as +comfortable as the shabby old house at Boolac, which they were always +expecting to fall upon their heads, and both our travellers were used +to put up with inconvenient things. + +The season at which time the Nile usually overflows was fast +approaching, and all of the lands which extend from the temple to the +water side, would have been covered in the course of a month--The +ground between the bust and the river was very uneven, so that unless +it had been conveyed over those places before the inundation commenced, +it would have been impossible to have affected it. Belzoni, therefore, +lost no time. With some difficulty he procured a number of men, and +agreed to give them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence +halfpenny English money, if they would undertake to assist him. A +carpenter made a car, somewhat like that which supports the tail of +your African sheep, Bernard, only very large, and the first operation +was to place the bust upon this simple carriage. The people of Gournou, +who were familiar with Caphany, as they named it, were persuaded that +it could never be removed from the spot where it lay and when they +saw, what to them appeared so impossible, they set up a shout, and +could not believe that it was the effect of their own efforts. The next +thing was to place it on the car. Can you guess how Belzoni managed +this business? + +BERNARD.--I fancy, that he bound the palm-leaf ropes round and round +Caphany very fast, and very firmly, and then the men tried and tried, +until they had lifted him up, and placed him upon it. + +MRS. A.--Ah, my little friend! you do not evince much knowledge of +mechanical powers, or you could not suppose that this image would be +moved by mere personal strength. Now, Owen, what is your opinion? + +OWEN.--I should think, that by means of levers, the bust might be +raised so as to leave a vacancy under it, and then the car might be +introduced by some of the people, who were standing ready. After +Caphany had been lodged on this, the car itself might be raised so +as to get one of the rollers beneath, and if the same operation were +performed at the back, he would be ready to be pulled up:--and then, if +you please, Bernard, your palm-leaf ropes may come in use, to tie him +to the carriage, and draw him along. + +MRS. A.--This is the very method Belzoni pursued, and when he had +succeeded in getting it removed some yards from its original place, +he sent an Arab to Cairo, with the intelligence that the bust had +begun its journey to England. Our ingenious friend reminds me of a +remark made by a celebrated writer, “that it is by small efforts +frequently repeated, that man completes his greatest undertaking, to +have attempted which, at _one_ effort would have baffled his ability,” +for he had still many difficulties to encounter. When the Arabs found +that they received money for the removal of a stone, they fancied that +it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value +ought not to be permitted to be taken away. + +However, the next day, and the next, and the next, Caphany advanced +slowly forwards, and after many delays, owing to the softness of the +sand, and to the desertion of some of the workmen, the fear of an +inundation, &c. Belzoni had the gratification of seeing his young +Memnon arrive on the banks of the Nile. + +[Illustration] + +Thus, you see perseverance is generally crowned with success. But it +yet remained to put the colossus in a boat; it had a long, long way to +go down the Nile before it could arrive at Cairo, and Belzoni intended +to stop there to show it to Mahomed Ali. + +But no boat is to be had. We must therefore leave the bust for the +present, and accompany him, if you please, into one of the caves that +are scattered about the mountains of Gournou, and are so celebrated +for the quantities of mummies they contain: he wished to see a famous +sarcophagus which was in one of them, and thither he went. You know +that mummies are the bodies of dead persons, which have been wrapped +up, in a great many bandages to preserve them, and a sarcophagus is a +sort of tomb or coffin.[1] + +Two Arabs and an interpreter accompanied Belzoni. Previous to entering +the cave, they took off the greater part of their clothes, and each +having a candle, advanced through a cavity in the rock, which extended +a considerable length in the mountain, sometimes high, sometimes very +narrow, and sometimes so low that Belzoni and his attendants were +obliged to creep on their hands and knees. Thus they went on till he +perceived that they were at a great distance from the entrance, and +the way was so intricate that he depended entirely on the two Arabs to +conduct him out again. His situation now was not to be envied--you know +Arabs are sometimes treacherous. + +[Illustration] + +At length they arrived at a large place into which many other holes +or cavities opened, and after some examination by the Arabs, they +entered one of them which was very narrow, and continued downward for +a long way, through a craggy passage, till they came where two other +apertures led to the interior in a horizontal direction. One of the +Arabs then said “This is the place.” + +This might well have startled Belzoni, for he was far from the light +of day--in a dark craggy passage in the midst of a dismal mummy cave, +and attended only by two Arabs and one other man!--However, the Arab +only intended to point out this spot as being the situation of the +sarcophagus, but Belzoni could not conceive how any thing so large as +it had been described to him could have been taken through so small an +aperture. He had no doubt but these recesses were burial places, as +skulls and bones were strewed in all directions; but the sarcophagus +could never have entered an aperture which even Belzoni himself could +not penetrate. One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did the +interpreter, and it was agreed that Belzoni and the other Arab should +wait their return. They certainly proceeded to a great distance, for +the light disappeared and only a murmuring sound from their voices +could be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments a loud +noise was heard, and the interpreter distinctly crying, “_O mon Dieu! +mon Dieu! Je suis perdu!_”--a solemn silence ensued. + +Belzoni asked the Arab whether he had ever been in that place. He +replied “_Never._” + +He judged it to be his best plan to return and procure help from the +other Arabs. He wished to do so, but when he desired the man to show +him the way out again, he said he did not know the road--he then +called--no answer was returned--all was still as death--he watched for +a long time--no candle appeared, and his own was almost burnt out. + +This was an adventure indeed, he began to think the Arabs had +some design on his life and he endeavoured to find his way to the +entrance?--It was a complete labyrinth; however, he managed to return +through some of the passages to that place, where, as I told you just +now, there were many cavities. Here, again he was puzzled; but at last, +seeing one which appeared to be right, they proceeded through it a long +way. Their candles appeared likely to leave them in the dark, and in +that case their situation would have been yet more deplorable. He did +not like to put out one of the candles to save it, for fear the other +might be extinguished by some accident. + +At this time, supposing themselves near the outside of the tomb, what +was their disappointment on finding there was no outlet, and that +they must retrace their steps to that place whence they had entered +this cavity. They strove to regain it, but were as perplexed as ever, +and were both exhausted from the ascents and descents which they were +obliged to pass. The Arab seated himself, but every moment of delay was +dangerous. + +In going in Belzoni had thought to preserve a clue to the passage by +putting a mark at the entrance of each cavity as he examined it, but +unfortunately their candles were not long enough to last so many +researches. However, hope, the cheering star of life, darts a ray of +light through the thickest gloom, and, encouraged by it, they began +their operations. On the second, attempt, when passing before a small, +aperture, Belzoni fancied he heard something like the roaring of the +sea at a distance. In consequence they entered this opening, and as +they advanced the noise increased, till they could distinctly hear a +number of voices all at one time. + +BERNARD.--What joy this must have given them!--as much joy as it gave +Owen to hear papa’s voice in the wood, when he was lost whilst we were +gathering nuts last summer--perhaps more; for I am sure I would rather +be lost in a nice green wood than in an Egyptian mummy cave! Go on dear +mamma. + +MRS. A.--At last they walked out, and to their no small surprise, the +first person who presented himself was the interpreter. How he came +to be there seemed astonishing. He told them, that in proceeding with +the Arab along the passage below, they came to a pit which they did +not see, and that the Arab fell into it, and in falling put out both +candles. It was then that he cried out, “_Mon Dieu! je suis perdu!_” as +he thought he also should have fallen into the pit; but, on raising his +head, he saw at a great distance a glimpse of daylight, towards which +he advanced, and thus arrived at a small aperture. He then scraped away +some loose sand and stones, to widen the place where he came out, and +went to give the alarm to the Arabs, who were at the other entrance. +Being all concerned for the man who fell to the bottom of the pit, it +was their noise Belzoni had heard in the cave. The place by which the +interpreter had escaped was instantly widened, and in the confusion +the Arabs did not regard letting Belzoni see that they were acquainted +with _that_ entrance, and that it had lately been shut up. He was not +long in detecting their scheme. They had intended to show him the +sarcophagus without letting him see the way by which it might be taken +out, and then to stipulate a price for the secret; as it was in reality +but one hundred yards from the great entrance. + +With this view they had taken him that roundabout way. They paid dear +for their intended deception. The man was taken out of the well, but +so much hurt as to be lame ever after. Thus the Arabs defeated their +own purpose, and proved that self-interest indeed is blind. When men +stoop to the meanness of equivocation or deceit, especially in hopes +of promoting their own good, they are artful but not wise; for, as we +can only judge of the circumstances of the present moment, and cannot +foresee consequences, it is very likely, as it proved with the Arabs, +that our cunning will bring us into still greater difficulties. It is +also certain to deprive us of confidence in the protecting care of +providence, which, as I have often told you, is the greatest support +and comfort in every trouble. + +Well, Bernard, do you regret Laura’s having taken a sketch in Egypt +instead of having drawn the spokes of the wheels of your little cart? + +BERNARD.--Oh, no, mamma--never mind the spokes! I like your account +very much. But where is Caphany all this time, with his palm-leaf-ropes? + +MRS. A.--Two guards were attending him by night and by day. Belzoni at +length sent to Cairo for a boat, but as he knew it could not arrive for +some time, he formed an enclosure of earth all around the bust, and +spent the mean time in visiting various antiquities. His courage was +not daunted by the peril he had passed through; many people would not +have ventured into mummy caves at all events, again. But he preserved +his mind from fear by not indulging it. + +OWEN.--Right! right! I like Belzoni, because he possessed real +courage--did he not, mamma?--real fortitude! although he was a little +terrified when alone with the Arab, in that dismal place, yet he did +not let that fear prevent his undertaking other projects. When I +am a man, mother, I mean to be a traveller, and to possess as much +perseverance as _our Belzoni_! + +MRS. A.--Experience will teach you, my love, that it is not a very easy +thing for one unaccustomed to an arduous life, to pass on a sudden from +the midst of comfort and indulgence to one that is so irregular. + +Belzoni determined to go up the Nile into Nubia, and to leave the bust +where it was during his absence. He sent James to Cairo, and discharged +the carpenter, so that a small party only remained, and they set off +from Esne, which is only a few miles from Thebes. There they landed +just in time to see Khalil Bey, with whom they had become acquainted +some time before in Soubra; and who was appointed to the government of +the Upper Provinces from Esne to Assouan. + +He was just returned from an excursion into the country, was much +pleased to see Belzoni, and received him very politely. Our traveller +found him with his pipe and coffee, seated on a sofa made of earth, and +covered with a fine carpet and satin cushions, surrounded by a great +number of his chiefs, Cacheffs and Santons. Khalil Bey was an Albanian, +but his mode of life was similar to that of the Egyptians in general, +which I will describe to you in another chapter. + +[Illustration] + + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] At Peale’s New York Museum there is a mummy which was taken with +the double coffin from one of the tombs discovered by Belzoni at +Thebes. Part of the bandages having been removed, one side of the head +and the shoulder of the body are exposed to view. It is thought to be +now more than 2000 years old and believed to have been a person of +great distinction, from the careful and expensive manner in which it +is preserved. It is wrapped in sixty-three thicknesses of linen and +inclosed in two coffins of sycamore wood ornamented with carving and +hieroglyphics. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + Egyptian Customs.--Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.--Visits + the Island of Elephantis.--Arrives at Ybsambul.--Attempts to + open its magnificent Temple.--Obliged for want of time and + money to give up the project.--Visits the little island of + Mainarty.--Danger on the Cataract.--Returns to Thebes.--Removal + of Young Memnon to Cairo.--Belzoni resides for a short time at + Rosetta. + + +The Egyptian rises with the sun to enjoy the morning air; his favourite +pipe and beverage are brought him, and he reclines at ease on his +sofa. Slaves, with their arms crossed, remain silent at the far end +of the chamber, with their eyes fixed on him, seeking to anticipate +his smallest wants. His children, standing in his presence, unless he +permits them to be seated, preserve every appearance of tenderness and +respect: he gravely caresses them, gives them his blessing, and sends +them back to the harem. He only questions, and they reply with modesty; +they are not allowed that free intercourse with their parents which you +enjoy. But custom, you know, reconciles us to every thing. The little +natives of that country having never known the pleasures of social +enjoyment and tender intercourse with their parents, of course cannot +lament their loss. + +OWEN.--I think, mamma, that the Egyptian father appears to be the +chief, the judge, and the pontiff of his family! But does he spend the +rest of the day reclining on his sofa? + +MRS. A.--Breakfast ended, he transacts the business of his trade or +office. When visiters come, he receives them without many compliments, +but in an endearing manner. His equals are seated beside him, with +their legs crossed; his inferiors kneel, and sit upon their heels. + +People of distinction are favoured with a place on a raised sofa, +whence they overlook the company. When every person is placed, the +slaves bring pipes and coffee, and set the perfume brazier in the +middle of the chamber the air of which is impregnated with its odours, +and afterwards present sweetmeats and sherbet. + +When the visit is almost ended, a slave, bearing a silver plate, on +which precious essences are burning, goes round to the company; each, +in turn, perfumes the beard, and then sprinkles rose-water on the head +and hands. This being the last ceremony, the guests are permitted to +retire. + +About noon the table is prepared, and the refreshments are brought in +a large tray of tinned copper, and, though not great variety, there is +great plenty. In the centre is generally a dish of rice cooked with +poultry, and highly flavoured with spice and saffron. Round this are +hashed meats, pigeons, stuffed cucumbers, and delicious melons and +fruits. The guests seat themselves on a carpet round the table: a slave +brings water in one hand, and a basin in the other, to wash. This is an +indispensable ceremony, where each person puts his hand into the dish, +and where the use of forks is unknown: it is repeated when the meal is +ended. After dinner they retire to the harem, where they slumber some +hours among their wives and children.... Such is the ordinary life of +the Egyptians. + +This appears to be a monotonous way of spending their time; our +intellectual pleasures are unknown to them. The days appear to be +passed in repeating the same thing, in following the same customs, +without a wish or a thought beyond. But we must remember, that nine +months of the year the body is oppressed by heat; and that, as inaction +under a temperate climate is painful, so here repose is enjoyment. +Effeminate indolence is born with the Egyptian, grows as he grows, +and descends with him to the grave. It influences his inclinations and +governs his actions, and, far from daily wishing to obtain knowledge +and enlarge the mental powers he sighs only for calm tranquillity. + +Now, we will go back to Belzoni; we left him at Esne, with Khalil Bey. +After smoking a few pipes, and drinking as many cups of coffee, he left +the Bey and returned to the boat. The following day they continued +their voyage, and arrived at Edfu, where a temple, which might be +compared with that of Tentyra, tempted our antiquary to land. Having +been highly gratified here, they proceeded to Ombos: the ruins that +are left at this place gave them a clear idea of what it has been. Our +party proceeded, and, before their arrival at Assouan, landed on the +western bank of the Nile. Here the country presented a more pleasing +aspect than any they had passed since the Chained Mountains. Palm-trees +in great abundance grow on each side of the river, and some cultivated +spots of ground extend from the Nile to the mountains. The old town of +Assouan stands on a hill, which overhangs the river; on its left is a +forest of palm-trees, which hides the modern town; and on its right is +the distant view of a granite mountain, that forms the first of the +celebrated cataracts. The island of Elephantine seems to interfere +with the barrenness of the western banks, and fills the ground with +picturesque groups of various trees. Our travellers landed at the +foot of a hill on the left of the Nile, and went to see the ruins of +a convent on a high rock where they observed many grottoes, which had +served as chapels for Christian worship. The convent is formed of +several small arched cells, distinct from each other, and commands a +view of the cataract and adjacent country, with the lower part of the +Nile. + +When Belzoni returned to the boat, the sun was tinging the horizon with +its last beams, and the shades of the western mountains had reached +across the Nile and covered the town. He found the Aga (a person +employed by the Turkish Government) and all his retinue seated on a +mat, under a cluster of palm-trees, close to the water. Belzoni made +application to him for a boat to carry him to Nubia, and presented to +him some tobacco, soap, and coffee, which were gladly accepted: he was +a selfish sort of person, and asked a great price for the use of the +boat; engaging, however, that one should be ready in a day or two. + +The next morning Belzoni went to see the isle of Elephantine; he +crossed the Nile in a wee-wee bark, made of the branches of palm-trees, +fastened together with small cords, and covered on the outside with a +mat, pitched all over. The principal object of attraction there was +a temple of great antiquity, built on rocks of blue granite: on the +western bank of the island are many trees of cassia and sycamore. +Having gratified his curiosity, Belzoni returned; and, as the Aga’s +boat was now in readiness, he determined to ascend the Nile to the +second cataract, during the interval required for the arrival of the +boat from Cairo, which was to convey the colossal bust. They therefore +embarked, and, on the following morning, long before the rising of the +sun, Belzoni stood at the stern, waiting for its first beams to unveil +the beautiful island of Philoe; and he had much gratification in taking +a hasty view of its ruins, without stopping to examine them minutely, +as he hoped to return that way; he, however, observed several blocks +of stones, and an obelisk, which he thought might be easily removed. +Philoe is in the middle of the Nile, somewhat south of Assouan. + +As the wind was favourable, they again set sail, and arrived in the +course of a few days at Deir, which is the capital of Lower Nubia. This +town consists of several groups of houses built of earth intermixed +with stones, and covered with reeds. Their height is generally about +eight or ten feet: the height of the parlour we are in is between eight +and ten feet. At the foot of the sloping and rocky hill is a small +temple; but Belzoni could not go to see it, as he observed that they +were closely watched, the reason for which was soon apparent. + +Belzoni went immediately to Hassan Cacheff, who received him with an +air of suspicion, and wanted to know his business. He told him he +ascended the Nile merely to seek for antiquities, and that he wished to +proceed as far as the Shellal, or second cataract. This, the Cacheff +said, was impossible; for the people in the upper country were at war +with each other. He then ordered his mat to be brought to him, seated +himself close before the door of his house, and invited Belzoni to sit +also. The first question he asked him was, whether he had any coffee. +Belzoni replied, that they had a little on board for their own use, but +that he should have half of it. He next asked for soap, and received +the same reply. Then he inquired if they had any tobacco: Belzoni said +that he had a few pipes, and they would smoke together. This pleased +Hassan Cacheff. The next question was, whether he had any powder; and +the answer he received was, that they had very little, and could not +spare any. At this, Hassan laughed, and putting his hands on Belzoni’s +shoulder, said, “You are English, and can make powder wherever you go.” + +By this time, the tobacco was brought, and the operation of smoking +began. Hassan still persisted in it that Belzoni’s sailors would not +advance any farther; for they were afraid, he said, to go into the +upper country. Our friend, unwilling to give up his point, used every +means of entreaty; and at length frankly told him, that, if he would +allow him to pursue his journey, he would make him a very handsome +present of a fine looking-glass. Hassan replied, “We will talk of this +to-morrow;” and the indefatigable Belzoni returned to the boat. + +A looking-glass was a novelty to the Cacheff; Belzoni, therefore went +again to him early in the morning, and told him that it was ready for +his acceptance, provided he would give him a letter of recommendation +to his brother at Ybsambul, which at last he did, for Hassan thought +his looking-glass a great treasure. The reason why Belzoni happened +to take such a thing with him, was, that, previous to his departure +from Cairo, he had taken care to obtain all the information possible +respecting the country of Nubia, from the natives who came to that city +with dates and charcoal; and from them he learned, that a looking-glass +and a few beads would be as valuable in their eyes as gold and diamonds +in ours. + +The Cacheff’s looking-glass was about twelve inches square, and made +a great impression on the people there, who had never seen so large a +one before. The Cacheff was never tired of admiring his dark coloured +countenance, and all the attendants behind him strove to get a peep at +their own tawny beauty. + +Belzoni, entering the boat again, proceeded down the Nile till he +arrived at Ybsambul, where two temples presented attractions. I must +describe them, because they were the objects of another voyage up the +Nile. In the front of the minor temple were six colossal figures thirty +feet high, and hewn out of the rock; as was also the large temple, +which had one figure of an enormous size, with the head and shoulders +only projecting out of the sand, and most beautifully executed. On +the upper part or frieze of the temple was a line of hieroglyphics, +which covered the whole front, and above this a range of figures, +in a sitting posture, as large as life. The sand on the north side, +accumulated behind on the rock above the temple, had gradually +descended towards its front, choked the entrance, and buried two-thirds +of it. When Belzoni approached this temple, the hope he had formed of +entering it vanished at once; for the heaps of sand were such as to +make it appear an impossibility ever to reach the door. He ascended +a hill of sand at the upper part of the temple, and there found the +head of a hawk projecting out of the sand only to its neck. From the +situation of this figure, he concluded that it was over the door; but +how to get to that door was the grand difficulty, for you know it was +necessary to remove the sand in such a direction, that it might fall +off from the front of the door, but in doing this, the sand from above +would continue to fall on the place whence that below was removed, and +thus render it an almost endless task. Besides, the natives were like +wild people, and knew nothing of working for money; indeed, they were +ignorant of money altogether. + +All these difficulties seemed such insurmountable objects that +they almost deterred Belzoni from the thought of proceeding; yet +perseverance, stimulated by hope, suggested to him such means, that +at last, after much exertion, and two voyages thither, he had the +satisfaction of entering the great temple of Ybsambul. + +By calculating, Belzoni supposed the door I mentioned to be +thirty-five feet below the sand; and having taken a proper measurement +of the front of the temple, he found that if he could persuade the +people to work with persevering steadiness, he might succeed in the +undertaking. + +Wishing first to apply to the Cacheff of Ybsambul to obtain his good +will if possible, he did not examine the smaller temple that night, but +followed the road between the rocks of which it is hewn, and arrived +on the banks of the Nile, where they embarked, and soon landed at +the village. A group of people who were assembled under a grove of +palm-trees seemed somewhat surprised at the arrival of a stranger. +Belzoni desired to see Osseyn Cacheff, telling them that he had a +letter for him from his brother, the Cacheff of Deir. + +He for some time received no answer, but at last was told that he who +sat there was Daoud his son. This was a man about fifty years of age, +clad in a light blue gown, with a white rag on his head as a turban, +seated upon an old mat on the ground, a long sword and a gun by his +side, with about twenty men surrounding him, who were well armed with +swords, spears and shields. + +Daoud Cacheff begged to know what business had brought Belzoni there? +He replied that he had a letter from his uncle directed to his father, +and that he came into that country in search of ancient stones. Daoud +laughed, and said that a few months before he had seen another man who +came from Cairo in search of treasure, and took away a great deal of +gold in his boat, and that Belzoni came for the same purpose, not to +take stones. What could he have to do with stones, if it were not to +procure gold from them? + +Belzoni told Daoud that the stones he wished to take away were broken +pieces belonging to the old Pharaoh people, and that his motive for +coming in search of them was to know whether our ancestors came from +that country. He then asked where he meant to go in search of these +stones. Belzoni said, that the place in the rock had a door, and that +by removing the sand they might enter the temple, and should perhaps +find many stones there, and accordingly proposed to have it opened. +After some difficulty, he managed to convince the people of the value +of money, for they had never heard of such a thing, having been +accustomed to exchange various articles, and Daoud at length consented +to find workmen, provided Belzoni would give them each two piastres a +day, which he consented to do. + +Daoud was rather more reasonable than his uncle Hassan, who required so +many presents before he would allow Belzoni to continue his voyage. But +there now remained consent to be obtained from Osseyn Cacheff, Daoud’s +father. This was the greatest difficulty; he lived at Eshke, a mile and +a half up the Nile. To secure his favour (for favour in this land may +often be procured by bribes,) Belzoni sent forwards to him some rice, +sugar, and tobacco; and received on board in the evening some sour +milk and warm thin cake of dhourra bread. + +Dhourra is the common grain of Egypt. The bread is baked on a flat +stone raised at each corner so as to admit a fire under it, the paste +which is soft being laid on it, spreads in a minute over the stone; as +soon as one cake is baked another is done in the same manner, and so +on, and this dhourra bread forms the general food of the country. + +They went the next morning to the residence of the Cacheff at Eshke, +and were told that he was from home, but would return in a few days. +This occasioned some disappointment; but as Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni did +not wish to return to Ybsambul without having had an interview with +him, they went on towards the second Cataract, and about nine, two +mornings after they had left Eshke, they made for the shore as near as +possible to the last cultivated land on the left, at a place called +Wady Halfa. + +A few of the natives came to look at the strangers, and at Belzoni’s +request they willingly brought asses for them to ride to the Cataract; +and now, Bernard, place yourself on your own little Smiler, and fancy +yourself one of the party. Proceed to the Cataract, and take several +views in different directions. Mount the rocks, and take a survey of +the wide sandy deserts. Observe the wild antelopes that are skipping +about on the crags of the few black cliffs which project here and +there, and having enjoyed the grand prospect afforded by this Cataract, +and as the sun again is sinking beneath the horizon, return to the +little bark. From thence, you may accompany Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni, who +immediately crossed for the isle of Mainarty, where they arrived at +dusk. They saw fires and people at a distance, but on landing could not +find any one. The huts were left with all they had, which consisted +only of dry dates, and a kind of paste made of the same, which they +kept in large vases of clay baked in the sun, and covered with baskets +made of palm-leaves; a baking stove, and a mat to sleep upon, comprised +the whole of their furniture. They little expected visiters at such +a time, you may suppose they were honest themselves, as they did not +suspect their neighbours. + +MRS. A.--The whole of the island is about an eighth of a mile in length +and half as much in breadth. The whole settlement consisted of four men +and seven women, with two or three children. They have no communication +with the main land, except when the water is low, for at any other +time, the current, being just under the Cataract, is so rapid that it +is impossible to ford it, and boats never go to this island. They are +poor but happy, knowing nothing of the enticing luxuries of the world, +and resting content with what Providence supplies, as the reward of +their industry. They have a few sheep and goats, which supply them with +milk, and the few spots of land they have are all cultivated, producing +a little dhourra, which you know is the principal food they require. +The wool of their sheep they spin into yarn; they wind the thread +round little stones, and thus suspend them to a long stick fixed in a +horizontal position between two trees, to form a warp; and by passing +another thread alternately between these, fabricate a kind of coarse +cloth, with which they make their dress. + +It was quite dark when Belzoni found this poor and truly happy people. +They had lighted a fire to make their bread, and the light of this +fire directed him to the spot where they were. I suppose they had been +terrified by having seen him at a distance, for they were all hid in a +hole, under some ruins of an old castle, which stands on the south side +of the island, and when he approached them, the women set up a loud +scream. A person who was with him, a native of Nubia, could talk their +language, and managed to pacify them, but could not entice more than +one man out of the hole. + +[Illustration] + +Their fear was owing to some depredations committed by the robbers of +Wady Halfa a few years before, who at low water forded over to the +island, and did all the injury that could be done to such people. +The strangers assured them that they were not like the robbers of +Wady Halfa, but only came to get some one to show them the way to the +Cataract. At this they were more alarmed than ever, and said that it +never happened that boats passed higher than Wady Halfa,--it being +impossible to proceed farther, owing to the quantity of rocky islands. +At last, however, they prevailed upon two of the men to accompany +them the following morning, and pilot them towards the Cataract as far +as the boat could go. + +According to agreement, they went on board, and with a strong north +wind advanced in their little bark until they found themselves so +tossed about by the different currents and eddies, as to prevent a +farther progress; and at the same time so situated, that they could +not return back for fear of being driven against some of the rocks +which threatened them on each side. They were in a deplorable situation +again. Unable to go backwards or forwards--but no deceitful Arabs were +with them this time. + +[Illustration] + +They were confined to one spot for about an hour. Sometimes they had +a rapid start for a hundred yards, then, all at once, were stopped +and turned round in spite of all their efforts, and of the north wind +which blew very hard. At last they were caught on a sudden in one of +the eddies of water, and driven against a sharp rock concealed about +two feet below the surface. The shock was dreadful: it is impossible +to describe Belzoni’s emotions, for he thought at the moment that the +boat was split in two--and the object of his tenderest solicitude was +on board--for her, he saw no mode of escape--had he been alone, he +might have swam on shore.--However, his trust in the protecting care +of Providence did not forsake him--they found that no harm was done, +and that by crossing the rock they were on, they might reach the other +side of the river. They did so as quickly as possible, and landed, +rejoicing in the thought of the danger they had escaped. They were +obliged to pursue their route on foot; carrying with them provisions +and water, they proceeded on the rocks, over a plain of sand and +stones, until they arrived at one called Aspir, which is the highest in +the neighbourhood of the Cataract, and commands a complete view of the +falls. + +And now our lovers of nature were well repaid by the prospect which +was before them. Belzoni says that it was a truly magnificent scene. +The several thousand islands, of various forms and sizes, with +as many different falls of water, running rapidly onward, whilst +counter-currents returned with equal velocity; the blackness of the +stones; the verdant foliage of the trees, scattered on the islets, +intermixed with the white bubbling froth of the numerous cascades, +formed a picture neither to be described nor delineated. + +Having been thus compensated for their venturous excursion, our +travellers returned by a little rout to Ybsambul, where are the temples. + +Belzoni went immediately to Osseyn Cacheff’s son Daoud, who presented +to him a letter from his father, and sent for the men who were +selected for the work. These people were complete savages, and wholly +unacquainted with any kind of labour. However, according to direction, +they began their undertaking in such a manner, that the sand would fall +off from the centre of the front of the temple, where the door was +supposed to be. + +They had no spades to dig away the sand; but used a long stick with a +cross piece of wood at the end, at each extremity of which was a rope. +One man would draw the cross stick back, and another would pull it +forwards. They found it very useful in clearing away the sand, and as +it was the first day of their enterprise, they proceeded better than +Belzoni had expected; all their thoughts and talk were on the quantity +of gold, pearls and jewels they should find in the place: the hope of +which acted as a stimulus for them to proceed. + +[Illustration] + +Thus they went on for some days, but as they had not before known the +value of money, so now their wish to obtain it knew no bounds: they +continually wished to procure more than their employer allowed them; +the other people also began to desire it, and came in such numbers, +that had he wished it he would have found it difficult to supply them +all. Their desire to see the inside of the temple, and to plunder what +it might contain, increased, and they gave Belzoni to understand, +that all that was there was their own property, and that the treasure +should be for themselves. He in vain endeavoured to assure them, that +he expected to find nothing but stones, and wanted no treasure; they +still persisted, that if he took away the stones, the treasure was in +them, and that if he could make a drawing or likeness of them, he could +extract the treasure from _it_ also, without their perceiving it. They +certainly had great confidence in Belzoni’s ability, as well as an +uncommon degree of superstition. + +Some proposed, that if any figure was discovered, it should be broken +before he carried it away, to examine the inside. Thus Belzoni had +no encouragement to proceed;--it was not of much use to take so much +pains, only in the end to gratify the selfish curiosity of those +savages,--and according to this he might not make drawings, much less +take away any statue or any thing else that might be found. I think, +under such circumstances, it will hardly lessen our ideas of his +perseverance and patience if he should give up opening this temple. It +would be spending so many days to no purpose. + +From the slow progress, or rather from the immense quantity of sand +accumulated together, Belzoni perceived that his work would require +more time than he could spare at that period before its completion; +still he would have persevered had not another and a stronger motive +presented itself, which was the want of that very article which a +few days before was despised and unknown, and now he found that he +absolutely could not proceed without it.--It was money which, even +here, had shown its usual power among mankind of exciting avarice and a +selfish disposition. + +OWEN.--And here the sentence I repeated in my Latin lesson this morning +is just _a propos_, mamma, “the love of money increases as the money +itself increases.” + +MRS. A.--Before leaving it however, Belzoni wished to ascertain how +near they were to the door, and for the purpose he had some water +brought up from the Nile, and poured down close to where the door +should be. This would stop the sand from running until he had made +a hole deep enough to perceive whether they were near the door. He +supposed, in the first place, that the sand was about thirty-five +feet in thickness, and they had removed so much sand as to uncover +twenty feet of the temple, but from the hole that was made, Belzoni +perceived that it would require a longer time to reach the door than +he could stay, and more money than he could afford, although the +colossal statues above the door were by this time completely exposed. +He therefore obtained a promise from the Cacheff that no one should +touch the place till his return (which would be in a few months,) and +contenting himself with putting a mark where the sand was before his +operation had commenced, and taking a sketch of the exterior of the +temple, he quitted it, with a firm resolution of returning some time to +accomplish its opening. + +EMILY.--Well, mother, he acted both prudently and judiciously; but I +should have been afraid lest the selfish people who had worked for him +should have opened it in the mean time. However, where did he go next, +and when did he return to Young Memnon, who had been staying this long +period at Thebes, banked up with earth and palm-leaf ropes? + +MRS. A.--They set off in the boat, and descending the Nile rapidly, +arrived in a few days at Shellal, or the first Cataract. When they +reached the Isle of Philoe, Belzoni took particular notice of the small +obelisk which he hoped at some future time to bring to England, and he +sent for the Aga of Assouan. + +Assouan is just on the opposite side of the Nile to that of the +Cataract--and you remember the selfish Aga, who asked such a sum for +the use of his boat: Belzoni sent for him to persuade him to use his +interest in having the obelisk taken down the Cataract: but this, for +want of a boat, could not be effected that season. I mentioned the +obelisk to you before: it was formed of a granite, twenty-two feet in +length and two in breadth, so that it would want a pretty large boat to +convey it. + +Belzoni took possession of it, giving the Aga four dollars to pay a +guard for it till his return. The next day they proceeded to Assouan by +land. On their arrival they were informed there were no boats to take +them to Esne, so there they were obliged to wait. + +What we cannot help, we must of course endure. Our enterprising friend +often found it so, and, though he no doubt was anxious to return to +Thebes, and to see his young Memnon once more, yet that the time might +not be lost, he amused himself during this period by taking another +tour in Elephantine. + +When he returned to Assouan, no boat had yet made its appearance. The +delay was tedious; however, nothing could be done but to submit to it. + +Belzoni was seated one evening under a grove of palm-trees, eating some +rice soup with the Aga, when an Arab came and whispered in the ear of +the latter, as if he had something of great importance to communicate. + +The Aga rose, though his dinner was not finished, and went away with +the air of a man of great business. Half an hour after he returned, +accompanied by two other persons of distinction and an old man. They +all seated themselves around him, and after introducing the affair with +some caution, asked Belzoni whether he should like to purchase a large +piece of diamond. It is true he was no diamond merchant: however, he +told the Aga, that if the article were good, and they could agree, he +would buy it, but that it was necessary for him to see it first. The +Aga said that the piece had been found by one of the natives of that +place, and, as he was not in want of money, it had been preserved in +the family for many years. The original proprietor being now dead, his +successor wished to dispose of it. + +Belzoni requested to see it, and therefore, retired with them to some +distance, out of the way of the people; when the old man, with great +solemnity took a small wooden box from a pocket in his leather belt. In +this was a paper which he unfolded: after that, two or three others, +till at last he opened his _sanctum sanctorum_. Belzoni took its +contents in his hands with no small degree of expectation, but alas! +how did he look, when he perceived that this great treasure, which had +been so long carefully stored, was only part of the stopple of a common +glass cruet, of the size of a hazel-nut, with two or three little +gilt flowers upon it! All his hopes vanished: and as the others were +attentively regarding his motions, they could not fail to observe the +disappointment marked in his countenance, and their hopes vanished too. +When they were told it was only a piece of glass, the words affected +their minds like the unhappy tidings of some great misfortune; they +walked off in solemn silence, not without giving him an inquiring look +to learn whether he was really in earnest. But he also shared their +disappointment, and the smile on his face could give them no hopes. + +No boat was yet to be seen. Belzoni therefore proposed bespeaking two +camels, and travelling to Esne by land; when this resolution was known, +a boat was soon in readiness, and he discovered that the whole delay +was a fraud to detain him at Assouan, several little barks having been +concealed in different places. Our travellers had a rapid and agreeable +voyage down the Nile, and reached Luxor, just by Thebes, in safety. + +The Cacheff had procured a boat to take Caphany to Cairo, and when +they arrived at Thebes, they found it fastened to the bank where the +colossal head was. Belzoni met with much opposition when he wished to +remove this great bust; some thought that it would overbalance the +boat, and consequently be lost in the Nile; others wished to retain +it, supposing it contained gold; and others alledged that it was +impossible to put it into the boat, as the bank was more than fifteen +feet above the level of the water, which had retired at least a hundred +feet from it. His vexation was great, in thinking that all his efforts +and exertion in bringing the head to the Nile were to no purpose, and +that it would never reach England, as the opposition was so powerful. +However, perseverance in laudable pursuits, as I have often told you, +will reward all your labour, and produce effects even beyond your +calculation. + +With some trouble, Belzoni collected a hundred and thirty men, and, +under his superintendance, they began to make a causeway, by which to +convey the head down to the river-side. This was finished the next day, +and the bust brought to the edge of the slope ready to be embarked. + +It required some thought to manage this, for it was no easy undertaking +to put a piece of granite, of such bulk and weight, on board a boat, +that if it received the weight on one side, would immediately upset. + +The Egyptians could furnish no mechanical powers to render the +operation more practicable. It was to be done without the smallest help +of that kind, or even a single tackle, and with poles and ropes +only. + +LAURA.--The people there know scarcely any thing of mechanics; their +utmost sagacity reaches only to pulling a rope, or sitting on the +extremity of a lever, as a counterpoise or balance. + +BERNARD.--Will you tell me, dear Laura, what you mean by a lever? + +LAURA.--A lever, my love, is the foundation of all the mechanical +powers. It is nothing more than a strait stick, or bar of wood or iron. +Did you never read, in “Sandford and Merton,” about the snowball which +rolled along with so much ease, by using two long sticks, which were +called levers? I will read it to you and explain all that you want to +know at some other time, but we will now hear how Belzoni contrived to +get the head down that steep bank. + +MRS. A.--The causeway was made gradually sloping to the edge of the +water, close to the boat, and with the four poles a bridge was formed +from the bank into the centre of the boat, so that when the weight bore +on the bridge, it pressed only on the middle of the boat; and this +slender bridge rested partly on the causeway, partly on the side of the +boat, and partly on the centre of it. + +On the opposite side of the boat, Belzoni put some mats well filled +with straw. A few Arabs were stationed in it, and some at each side, +with a lever of palm-wood, as there was nothing else. At the middle of +the bridge he placed a sack filled with sand, that in case the colossus +should run too fast into the boat, it might be stopped. He also took a +precaution to make it descend gradually.--You know if they had given +it a push, and it had gone _at once_, it would have overbalanced the +boat, and perhaps drowned the Arabs: so behind the colossus, Belzoni +had the trunk of a palm-tree firmly planted, round which a rope was +twisted, and then fastened to the car, so that it might descend gently. +He set a lever at work on each side, and at the same time that the men +in the boat were pulling, others were slackening the ropes, and others +moving the rollers as the colossus advanced. + +[Illustration] + +Thus it descended very, very slowly, from the mainland to the causeway, +when it sunk a good deal, as the causeway was made of fresh earth. +However, this was better than if it had run too fast towards the water. +Belzoni thought so too, for if it had fallen into the Nile, it would +have been not only a mortification to himself but a disappointment to +many antiquaries in England, who were longing for its arrival. However +it went safely on board. + +The Arabs who were of opinion that it would go to the bottom of the +river, or crush the boat, were all attention, as if anxious to know the +result, as well as to learn how the operation was to be performed. When +the owner of the boat, who considered it as lost, witnessed Belzoni’s +success, and saw the huge piece of stone, as he called it, safely on +board, he came forward and heartily congratulated him. Belzoni was +rejoiced to see his long anticipated project thus crowned with success. + +The party arrived at Cairo the following month. Thence they proceeded +to Rosetta, which is on the western branch of the Nile, and near its +mouth. The colossus was landed there, and as tackle was to be had, +of which Belzoni was destitute before, as well as proper workmen, it +was rendered quite an easy operation, and conveyed in safety to the +Bashaw’s magazine, there to await its embarkation for England. + +Mr. Belzoni became acquainted with a gentleman at Rosetta, who +received him into his house in a most hospitable manner, and was much +interested in his affairs, feeling the pleasure of a true Englishman +in seeing one of the most finished articles of Egyptian art ready to +be embarked for his native country. And here we will for the present +take leave of our friend, wishing that the indefatigable zeal displayed +in all he undertakes may be rewarded with equal success: and you, my +dear children, whenever you want a stimulus to patient, persevering +industry, think of Belzoni! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + Bernard’s perseverance.--Belzoni’s second Voyage.--Rapid + Journey from Minieh to Thebes.--Superb Temple at Carnac.--Works + carried on both at Gournou and Carnac.--Mummy Caves.--Belzoni’s + object in entering them.--Manufactures of the ancient + Egyptians.--Their Idols.--Curious Habitations at Gournou.--He + visits Ybsambul.--Opens the Temple.--Returns highly gratified + to Thebes. + + +Laura was a botanist. She loved to ramble in search of wild flowers, +and she frequently did so before breakfast. A few mornings after the +preceding conversation, the sun arose with uncommon splendour; but the +glistening dewdrops moistened every blade of grass, and bespangled +every leaf. Laura, instead of wandering in her favourite fields, +proceeded through the little green gate of the shrubbery, and followed +a winding gravel path that brought her to the stable-yard, in which +were the children’s gardens. Here she found Bernard, busily employed +with his spade: carefully replacing flowers that were trampled down, +trimming them and cleaning them, and planting them anew; the border +which he had cultivated with so much delight, was all in confusion and +disorder; the cherry-tree, from which he had promised himself so much +pleasure, in presenting its first fruits to his mother, was pulled down +from the palisades against which it had been trained; his little crop +of wheat was levelled to the ground;--the young liburnums were eaten; +the rose-tree was broken; all was a scene of desolation and confusion! +Yet the persevering little Bernard did not complain; he smiled and +looked at Laura; Laura smiled also, for she guessed what thoughts were +passing in his mind. + +Our young readers may wish to know what can have been the cause of all +this disturbance. The little gardens, as we have said, were in the +stable-yard. A door that led into the stable, had, unintentionally, +been left open; Smiler had taken the liberty of walking out, and had +been tempted by a pendant branch of Bernard’s cherry-tree to trample +upon that very spot where his little master had bestowed so much +pains, and in which he had passed many a happy hour, toiling in the +heat of his brow. Laura watched her brother. He smoothed the ground +with the little rake his papa had given him; he dug a hole, and placed +his rosebush afresh, only first cutting off the broken stalks; he then, +with the utmost patience, and without uttering one complaint, assisted +the gardener to train the poor cherry-tree in its former station, +holding the little tin tacks, and the shreds of list, as James held his +hand to receive them; and James, the gardener, and Bernard together, +after working for two hours, had the satisfaction of beholding the +garden restored to neatness and order. + +Bernard came in to breakfast. His cheeks glowed with a brighter red +than usual; his countenance beamed cheerfulness and joy; he seemed in +perfect good humour with himself, and with every one around him, and +every one appeared in good humour with him; this was the effect of his +industry. + +His mother, who had heard from Laura how the morning had been passed, +said, + +“Well my love, you have proved the truth of my assertion, that +perseverance, exerted in laudable undertakings, will reward all our +labour, and produce effects beyond our fondest hopes!” + +“Ah, mamma!” said Bernard, “it was Belzoni who first taught me to exert +it! You know I saw what _he_ gained by perseverance, so I thought I +would follow his example, and not give way to despair. You do not +regret having given me that account of Belzoni, do you mamma?” + +“No, indeed, my dear boy!” replied the fond and affectionate mother; +“I am delighted in witnessing the first fruits of my story; and having +thus profited by the first account of our enterprising traveller, you +are well entitled to another.” A tear glistened in Bernard’s eyes as +his mother bestowed this well-merited praise. + +He despatched his basin of milk: the breakfast things were soon +removed; the maps were once more laid on the table, and Mrs. A. +commenced her narrative of Belzoni’s second excursion up the Nile. + +In 1817 a boat was prepared, well covered with mats, and closely lined +all round, with a curtain to the door, to prevent the dust or wind from +penetrating the cabin. + +Belzoni and his little party embarked from Boolac. + +Antiquities had touched a chord in Belzoni’s heart: they were the +chief objects of his researches. He now more particularly wished to +visit the temple of Ybsambul, and to make preparations for opening it; +when that was accomplished, he intended to return to the Valley of +Beban el Malook, and to endeavour to enter the tombs of the kings, and +afterwards to visit the Pyramids. + +You recollect the temple I mention. Belzoni had just made a hole in +the sand, when he left it before, and had discovered that he had then +neither time nor money for exploring it. We may hope he will succeed +now, and that the men will behave better next time. + +Their departure from Boolac was attended with a contrary wind, which +caused their progress up the Nile to be so slow, that in four days they +only reached Tabeen; a little village on the eastern bank opposite +Dajior, in reaching which they passed by Cairo, and by several pyramids. + +It was at this village, Bernard, that Belzoni drew a view of the +distant Pyramids, from which sketch Laura was taking hers the other +evening, at the time you thought them so uninteresting. + +BERNARD.--My opinion is changed now, mamma:--it is best not to form a +judgment too soon,--is it not? I quite love the name of that little +village: I do not call it insignificant, for Laura’s drawing led to my +knowledge of Belzoni. How long did he stop there, mother? + +MRS. A.--When the sketch was taken, they proceeded to Meimond, where +their attention was attracted by the cheerful sound of a tambourine, by +which they concluded that there was an Arabic feast in the village, and +leaving their comfortable bark, they went on shore. + +They were not much gratified by what they found, and therefore, +returning to their boat, went on to Minieh, which is about half way +between Cairo and Thebes. + +It was necessary for them to land there, on account of seeing Hamet +Bey, who has command over all the boats on the river, and I dare say +thinks himself as great as any admiral on the sea! + +Belzoni found this mighty commander sitting on a wooden bench, and +attended by two or three of his sailors; and here he also saw two +Copts, who had been sent by Mr. Drouetti up the Nile, in search of +antiquities. + +EMILY.--In search of antiquities, mamma, like Belzoni! then I suppose +there will be some emulation between them, and I am glad of it; but I +should like to know who this Mr. Drouetti is; the Copts, we already +know, are descended from the first Egyptians who became Christians. + +OWEN.--I think, Emily, it was very unfortunate for Belzoni that he did +meet with these men; how can you tell but they may go to Ybsambul and +finish removing the sand, and so spoil all the nice plans that I have +in my head. + +MRS. A.--Mr. Drouetti was the Ex-French Consul in Alexandria, and Owen +is right in supposing Belzoni would rather have avoided these men; +especially as he learned that they wished to arrive at Thebes before +him, and to purchase all that the Arabs had found during the preceding +season. This they could do because their mode of travelling on asses +or horses was much more speedy than the progress of the boat could +possibly be, and thus Belzoni would have no chance of regaining the +spot of ground where you recollect he found the statues. + +Upon the plain at Thebes, where, I told you, “the traveller finds +himself on every side among wonders.” + +He was not long considering how to act, and resolved to set off +immediately by land, and, by travelling day and night, was in hopes of +reaching the place before them. Accordingly a horse and an ass were got +ready: and taking with him his Greek servant, he left Mr. Beechey (the +young gentleman who accompanied him on this journey) to come up the +Nile at his leisure. + +Mrs. Belzoni was left at Cairo, with the British Chancellor. Now I will +tell you with what expedition this rapid journey was completed. + +Our travellers set off at midnight, and forced marches brought them the +next morning to Manfatout. From this place they hastened without delay, +and arrived at Siout before daylight. At sunrise they mounted again, +and arrived before dark at Tahta. Here they rested in a convent for +four hours, started afresh by the light of the moon, and reached Girgeh +in the night. + +Perhaps you think it must have been pleasant to ride upon a donkey by +moonlight, when the moon was just peeping from behind some dark clouds, +and all around was silent and still. + +They resumed their journey at one o’clock in the morning, reached +Farshiout at noon, and, after a delay of four hours, in consequence of +not finding a fresh horse immediately, arrived at night at a village +near Badjoura. Here they rested two hours, and arrived at Geneh at +three. Having dined, they proceeded onward, rested a couple of hours at +Benut at night, and reached Luxor the following noon. + +It is hardly possible to form an idea of the difficulties a person +must undergo, travelling through a tract entirely destitute of the +necessaries of life, and sleeping only for eleven hours during five +days! + +The fathers of the convents at some of the towns through which he +passed afforded him great accommodation. They provided him with beasts +and provisions for the road immediately on his arrival; and, in places +where there was no convent, he went to the house of the Sheik el Balet, +where travellers of all sorts assemble at night: they are somewhat like +our inns, but without our accommodations. Indeed, he was so fatigued +and stiff, that any place of rest was acceptable to him. The bare earth +generally afforded him a bed, and when he could procure a mat, it was +a luxury. One night, he was refreshed with a few pieces of sugar-cane, +which, after passing the torch where the juice had been extracted, +were become pretty soft, and afforded a tolerable bed. Sugar-canes are +common there, and Belzoni was sometimes regaled with them as a dessert, +after a repast of bread and onions. + +No time was to be lost: so he now began to be very busy. He applied +to the Cacheff, who gave orders for him to be furnished with men, who +should do whatever he pleased. Whilst the works at Carnac were going +on, Belzoni visited the superb ruins of the temple at that place. In +a distant view of them, nothing can be seen but the towering propylæ, +high portals and obelisks, which, projecting above the various groups +of lofty palm-trees, present a magnificent spectacle. But when he +entered the avenue of sphinxes, which leads to the great temple, he was +inspired with equal solemnity and awe. + +EMILY.--I do not like to interrupt you, dear mother: but will you be +so good as to tell me what these sphinxes are, and why they filled +Belzoni’s mind with solemnity and awe? I thought that a sphinx was only +a sort of moth; and I do not believe that a moth would fill me with +astonishment! What is meant by an Avenue of sphinxes? + +MRS. A.--The worship of the ancient Egyptians, my dear girl, was +remarkable for superstition. They worshipped idols of wood and stone; +and these sphinxes represent lions with heads of rams, the symbols +of strength and innocence, the power and purity of their gods. It +was their enormous size, and the idea of what they were intended to +represent, that struck Belzoni as he approached the avenue. He had +never before entered it alone, without being interrupted by the noise +of the Arabs, who seldom leave the traveller an instant; and the +colossal and other gigantic statues, obelisks, immense colonnades, the +pillars of which are some twenty and some thirty feet in circumference; +paintings, which still retain an incomparable brilliancy; granite and +marble lavished in the structure; stones of astonishing dimensions +forming the magnificent roofs; and thousands of prostrate columns which +literally strew the ground, made him remain a long time motionless +with rapture; and he more than once felt inclined to prostrate himself +before monuments, the erection of which seemed to surpass the genius +and the powers of man. + +LAURA.--How much I should have enjoyed wandering with Belzoni in that +magnificent place! I have often thought so when I have been looking +at the view of it. I think, mamma, Rollin very justly observes, that +“Egypt seemed to place its chief glory in raising monuments for +posterity.” + +BERNARD.--Will you show us the drawing, dear Laura? + +The kind sister rose, and brought a large, very large folio volume from +the library table, and turned to a plate representing the extensive +ruins of the temple at Carnac. + +MRS. A.--Belzoni was there early in the morning, when the sun was +rising, and the long shades from the various groups of columns extended +over the ruins, intermixed with the rays of light striking on the +masses in various directions, formed such delightful views as (he tells +us) baffle all description. + +You remember that when Belzoni first saw the temple of Tentyra he +seated himself upon the ground lost in wonder and admiration. He +thought that edifice exceeded this in point of preservation, and in +the beauty of its workmanship and sculpture; but here he was lost in a +mass of colossal objects, every one of which, to use his own animated +language, was sufficient of itself alone to attract his whole attention. + +EMILY.--These majestic objects gave Belzoni more delight than that +which he received on escaping from the mummy cave, or even than that he +experienced in seeing young Memnon safe in the magazine at Cairo. + +MRS. A.--It was a superior pleasure, my love, and a pleasure which +superior minds only can enjoy. Association gave it one grand charm. +As Belzoni viewed the battles, processions, triumphs, feasts, and +offerings painted and sculptured on the walls, he did not doubt but +they related to the ancient history of a country universally admitted +to be + + “The queen of nations, and the boast of times, + Mother of science and the house of gods.” + +This idea would lead a contemplative mind to look back on the days and +deeds of other times--to the consideration that all human greatness is +transitory and fleeting--and that the time would come when even these +memorials of former magnificence should be levelled with the ground, +and known no longer. These reflections would be very natural; and such +feelings would be both melancholy and pleasing. + +It was quite late when our friend left the ruins and returned to Luxor, +to the little hut of an Arab, who ceded to him part of his chamber and +a mat, which he tells us formed an excellent bed; much better than +the one of sugar-cane. But the change was great from those grand and +delightful ruins to a little hut. He was told that the two Copts had +arrived, and had begun their researches extensively. + +This was rather annoying intelligence; but travellers must learn to +endure disappointments, and he was obliged to be contented. + +Being unable to procure many men on the east side of the Nile, he +determined to try what could be done on the west, as he had the good +will of the Cacheffs there: but, unfortunately, the boat with Mr. +Beechey had not arrived, and he could not proceed for want of money: +having, from prudence, as he came by land, brought but little with him. +Accordingly he left his interpreter, and set off in a small boat to +meet his friend. He arrived at Ghenlh in a day or two, where they were +rejoiced to meet each other. It took them three days to reach Thebes, +when they moored their bark, and recommenced their operations with +what people they could obtain. The work at Gournou was continued, and +occupied as much of Belzoni’s attention as that at Carnac. + +You recollect that Gournou is just on the other side of the Nile, +nearly opposite Carnac. The mummy cave is there, you know: the cave +into which Belzoni went with the Arabs. It is a tract of rocks, about +two miles in length, at the foot of the Libyan mountains, on the west +of Thebes: every part of these rocks is cut out by art, in the form of +large and small chambers, each of which has its separate entrance; and +though they are very close to each other, it is seldom that there is +any interior communication from one to another. They are celebrated, as +I mentioned before, for the quantity of mummies they contain. + +It is impossible to give you any idea of those subterraneous abodes and +their inhabitants. + +There are no sepulchres in any part of the world like those of Gournou, +nor any excavations or mines that can be compared to those astonishing +places. No exact description of their interior can be given, owing to +the difficulty of visiting them. + +OWEN.--Surely Belzoni will not venture into one again, mamma! I shall +tremble for him, especially if he trust himself under the care of a +treacherous Arab. + +MRS. A.--It is true that the people of Gournou are superior to any +other Arabs in cunning and deceit; but when Belzoni had resided some +little time at Thebes, and was known to them, they found it in vain to +attempt to delude him any more. + +OWEN.--I do not wonder at that, mother: for I do not believe that a +very clever person could be easily deceived. Because I think we more +frequently see superstitious or cowardly persons imposed on, than those +who are not so: and thus one end of acquiring knowledge is, that it +prevents our being deceived by others, and enables us to avoid their +cunning. + +MRS. A.--Knowledge is intrinsically valuable, my dear boy, as it +elevates the mind, and qualifies us for higher degrees of felicity, +both in the present and in a future life; and the acquisition +of useful knowledge exercises and invigorates the powers of the +understanding; its cultivation in youth promotes virtue: it is, +therefore, the true foundation of all our happiness. + +In visiting these mummy caves a traveller is generally satisfied when +he has seen the large hall, the gallery, the staircase, and as far +as he can conveniently go. Besides, his attention is taken up by the +paintings he observes on the walls; so that, when he comes to a narrow +or difficult passage, or to have to descend to the bottom of a well or +cavity, he declines taking such trouble, naturally supposing that he +cannot see in these abysses any thing so magnificent as what he sees +above, and on that account deeming it useless to proceed any farther. + +The air is very close and disagreeable. Many persons could not +withstand the suffocating effect it produces; and the enterprising +traveller is also annoyed with the immense quantity of fine dust, and +the effluvia arising from the mummies: the entry or passage where the +bodies are is roughly cut in the rocks, which are of granite; the +falling of the sand from the upper part causes the passage to be nearly +filled up, so that in some parts there is not more than the vacancy +of a foot or two left, which you must contrive to pass through in a +creeping posture, regardless of the keen and pointed stones with which +the path is strewed. After getting through these passages, some of them +two or three hundred yards long, a more commodious place is generally +found, perhaps high enough to seat yourselves. But what a place of +rest! surrounded by bodies, by heaps of mummies in all directions, +which, previous to being accustomed to the sight, would impress upon +the mind disgust and horror. The blackness of the wall, the faint light +given by the candles or torches for want of air, the different objects +that surround the venturous traveller, seeming to converse with each +other, and the Arabs, with torches in their hands, naked and covered +with dust, themselves resembling living mummies, form a scene that +cannot be described. + +[Illustration] + +In such a situation our enterprising Belzoni, whom no difficulties +could deter, frequently found himself. At first he generally returned +exhausted and fainting, but at length became so inured to the exertion, +that he could freely venture into these caves, indifferent to what he +suffered. Sometimes, he tells us, after the trouble of entering into +such a place, through a passage of fifty, a hundred, three hundred, +or six hundred yards, he would seek a resting-place and contrive to +sit; but when his weight bore on the body of some decayed Egyptian, it +crushed it immediately. He would then naturally have recourse to his +hands to sustain his weight, but they could find no better support, so +that he would sink altogether among the broken mummies, with a crash of +bones, rags, and wooden cases, which raised such a dust as sometimes +left him motionless a quarter of an hour, waiting till it subsided +again. + +The air in the caves is almost unfit to sustain animal life. Belzoni +could not have borne it long at a time; and this same kind of air which +often proves fatal to the life of animals, will also extinguish the +flame of a torch or candle. When you are acquainted with the principles +of chemistry, I shall be better able to explain the cause of this +singular effect. + +The people of Gournou live in the entrance of such caves as have +already been opened; and by making partitions with earthen walls, they +form habitations for themselves, as well as for their cows, camels, +buffaloes, sheep, goats, and dogs. + +It is difficult to account for this choice, as they have plenty of +stone from the surrounding tombs, unless it be from their indolence, to +save the trouble of building houses, and in hopes of receiving money +from travellers. + +Belzoni’s principal object in entering those caves was to rob the +Egyptians of their papyri, of which he found a few hidden in the +numerous folds of cloth that enveloped them. You have heard of the +papyries or paper rush, my love, which grew on the banks of the Nile, +and of which the ancients made clothes, sails, domestic utensils, and +writing paper. + +BERNARD.--_I_ have heard of it, mamma; and I understand the process by +which they made their paper, perfectly well. They pressed the leaves +that surrounded the stem, flattening and smoothing them; I suppose the +leaves of the paper rush clung round each other, as those of the great +American aloe do in the conservatory. But what has all this to do with +Belzoni’s papyri? + +MRS. A.--A great deal, my little friend: because by those papyri are +meant the scrolls or records that were usually placed with the mummies, +containing historical facts, which would prove very useful to the +antiquary were he able to decipher them. Such people as could afford +it would have a sycamore case to be buried in, on which the history of +their lives was painted: and those who could not afford a case, were +contented to have their lives written on papyri, rolled up and placed +above their knees. So you are now acquainted with the motive which +induced Belzoni to enter the dismal caves at Gournou. + +The ancient Egyptians were evidently acquainted with linen +manufactures, and in perfection nearly equal to our own. Belzoni +observed some of the cloth of which their garments were made, quite as +fine as our muslin, of an even texture, and spun so curiously that the +threads were scarcely visible. + +Their knowledge was not by any means confined to architecture and +sculpture. Belzoni was fortunate enough to find many specimens of +their manufactures, among which was gold leaf beaten nearly as thin +as ours. They had also the art of tanning leather, and of staining +it of different colours; and thus they were able to make shoes of +various shapes, and as good as those we wear. They fabricated a sort of +glass, of which they made beads and other ornaments; and they had also +manufactories of pottery ware. Thus you see the Egyptians possessed +diversity of talents; things of minor importance were not forgotten, +amidst objects both grand and sublime. + +LAURA.--I like them the better for that, mother. What you have said +about combining great things with matters of comparatively small +consequence, reminds me of my favourite, Elizabeth Smith; who, +although possessing talents which would have been distinguished in an +University, thought it no degradation to make a currant tart! + +MRS. A.--Those are in reality the greatest minds, which, possessing +profound and various learning, do not object to its being shaded by the +exertion of every domestic virtue. + +Besides enamelling, the art of gilding was in high perfection among +the Egyptians, as Belzoni found several ornaments of that kind. They +knew how to cast copper, as well as how to form it into sheets; and +had a metallic composition not unlike our lead, but rather softer, +resembling the lead we see on paper, in the tea-chests from China, only +it was thicker. Carved works were very common and in great perfection, +particularly in the proportion of the figures, which were made to +preserve that sweet simplicity peculiar to themselves, and which is +always pleasing to the beholder. The art of varnishing, and baking the +varnish on clay, was carried on in so superior a style, that it would +be difficult to surpass it in the present day. + +Painting however, was not in so much perfection among the Egyptians +as the other arts. They knew not how to soften from shade to shade, +until the last in “purest light was lost.” Neither could they spread +the glowing tinge across a sable landscape; nor yet pencil a delicate +flower unfolding its numerous petals. Their painting was extremely +simple, as they possessed no knowledge of shadowing to elevate their +figures. Great credit, however, is due to them for their taste in +disposing the colours, such as they had, which were only two sorts of +blue, red, green, yellow, and black. With these they adorned their +temples, tombs, or whatever they wished to have painted. + +The Egyptians were a primitive nation: they had to form every thing +without a model before them to imitate: yet so fertile was their +inventive faculty, that, instead of confining themselves to five orders +of architecture, they had so many that new ones might be continually +extracted from their ruins. We have reason to believe that our Ionic +order originated in Egypt. + +OWEN.--Oh, yes: and papa told me he had heard that the invention of the +ornament called the volute was derived from the circumstance of a girl +leaving a basket, covered with a tile, on a bed of celery; the plant +growing up, and being interrupted by the tile, having bent backwards, +and assumed the spiral form. I should like to know if this anecdote +be true. Any thing is more interesting when we can depend upon its +correctness. + +Well, mamma, will you tell us in what other arts the Egyptians excelled? + +MRS. A.--Their wonderful sculptures are admired for the boldness of +their execution. Geometry is universally believed to have been first +found out by them; and astronomy is also regarded as their invention. + +Indeed, that they were early celebrated for their wisdom and literature +is sufficiently obvious, both from sacred and profane history; the +former assuring us that Moses was learned in all the wisdom of the +Egyptians, and that the wisdom of Solomon excelled all the wisdom of +Egypt; and the latter allowing this nation to have been the parent of +all philosophical knowledge. + +During the time that the works at Gournou and Carnac were carried on, +Belzoni generally resided at Luxor; but when he had been busier than +usual, he took up his lodging at the entrance of some of the tombs; +and, far from being miserable, he was amused with the novelty of his +habitation. The dwellings are usually in the passages, between the +first and second entrance to a tomb; the walls and the roof are as +black as any chimney; the inner door is closed up with mud, except a +small aperture sufficient for a man to creep through. Within this place +sheep are kept at night. Over the door-way there are always some half +broken Egyptian figures, and the two foxes-- + +BERNARD.--Stop, mamma, if you please:--two foxes! What had foxes to do +there? + +MRS. A.--The Egyptians attached great importance to animals, and +foxes were considered as guardians to their burial places. You know +I have frequently told you, that these people worshipped animals of +different kinds; and in their tombs Belzoni frequently found the +mummies of bulls, cows, monkeys, cats, fishes, birds, and crocodiles. +To the latter they attached great importance, regarding them with high +veneration. I think we ought to be very thankful that we live in better +times, and in a Christian land, for I dare say, if we had lived at +that time we should have been no wiser than our neighbours; but have +worshipped cats, and dogs, and crocodiles too. + +A small lamp is placed in a niche in the wall, and a mat is spread on +the ground; and this formed the grand divan wherever Belzoni was. The +people used to assemble around him, and the conversation turned wholly +on antiquities. Such a one had found such a thing, and another had +discovered a tomb. Various articles were brought for him to purchase, +and he had sometimes reason to rejoice at having stayed there. + +OWEN.--Then they had discovered that he was an antiquarian. For my +part, sooner than trust myself with the people of Gournou, in one of +their black dismal caves, I would live in one of the bamboo huts of +Peru, or in one of the little Laplanders’ dwellings, made of briars, +and bark, and reindeer skins: either would be much more agreeable, +would it not, mamma? + +MRS. A.--Possibly it might; but it would not have answered Belzoni’s +purpose to have been transported across the Atlantic to the flowery +fields of Peru, nor yet to Lapland’s land of snow, for in both places +antiquities are unknown. + +Every human being can be happy if he like, for happiness certainly +depends on ourselves. + +It may not suit your views of happiness, to talk of it among people +who live in caves like wild beasts, or rather who live in tombs, among +the mummies and rags of an ancient nation, of which they know nothing. +But this is trifling, compared with their slave-like state; subject +to the caprice of a tyrannical power, who leaves them no chance of +receiving any remuneration for their labours, and no prospect of any +change except for the worse. Nevertheless they are happy, my love, for +custom reconciles all this. The labourer comes home in the evening, +seats himself near his cave, smokes his pipe with his companions, talks +of the last inundation of the Nile, its products, and what the ensuing +season is likely to be; his wife brings him the usual bowl of lentils +and bread, moistened with water and salt, and when she can add a little +butter, it is considered a feast. Knowing nothing beyond this, he is +happy. + +The young man’s business is to accumulate the amazing sum of a hundred +piastres (two pounds and ten shillings) to buy himself a wife, and to +make a feast on the wedding-day. + +EMILY.--To buy a wife! That is the drollest thing I ever heard of! +Cheap articles too, mamma! Two pound ten shillings!--I am sure I would +not be bought. + +MRS. A.--You are not sure of any such thing, my dear. Were you a young +lady of Gournou, you would most probably resemble the young ladies +there. When a man wants to marry, he goes to the father of the intended +bride, and agrees with him what he is to pay for her. This important +affair being settled, so much money is to be spent on the wedding +feast. To set up house-keeping, nothing is requisite but two or three +earthen pots, a stone to grind meal, and a mat, which is the bed. The +lady has a gown and jewels of her own; and if the bridegroom presents +her with a pair of bracelets of silver, ivory, or glass, she is +fortunate and happy indeed. Thus these poor people, having never known +our luxuries and indulgencies, sigh not for the want of them. + +There is no difficulty in the matter of rent or taxes at Gournou. If +one house do not please them, they walk out and enter another, as there +are several hundreds, or perhaps thousands at their command. At length +they fix upon one. No rain can pass through the roof, and a door is not +wanted, as there is nothing to lose. They make a kind of box, of clay +and straw, which after two or three days’ exposure to the sun becomes +quite hard. It is fixed on a stand; an aperture is left to put all +their precious things into it, and a piece of a mummy-case forms the +door. + +Belzoni had by this time acquired antiquities enough to fill another +boat, and having secured all the valuable collection in one spot, +built a mud wall round it, and covered it with earth; they left an +Arab Scheik to guard it, and set off for Assouan, that old town where +Belzoni found the Aga, and all his retinue seated on a mat under a +cluster of palm-trees. As they were bound to Ybsambul, they did not +remain long at Assouan, but proceeded to Philoe. You have not forgotten +this name. + +EMILY.--Oh no, mamma. + +MRS. A.--You remember in my account of Belzoni’s last voyage, I told +you that he stood at the stern of the vessel, waiting for the first +beams of the sun to unveil that beautiful island; and he found an +obelisk there and gave the Aga four dollars to pay a guard for it till +his return. He is not going to remove that obelisk just at present, but +at some future time; his chief object now is to hasten to Ybsambul. + +During their stay at Philoe, two captains arrived, who were going +up the Nile as far as the second Cataract; and as there was some +difficulty in obtaining two boats, it was agreed that Belzoni should +join them, and thus form one party. Accordingly they embarked; the two +captains, Mr. Beechey, three servants, and Belzoni himself. I have just +been thinking how much courage Mrs. Belzoni possessed, for she was +left in the island of Philoe till the return of the party. She very +much wished to accompany them, but as there was only one boat she was +obliged to her own mortification, to remain behind, notwithstanding +the great desire she had to witness the opening of the interesting +temple at Ybsambul. However, it was in vain to give way to useless +regret. Mrs. Belzoni took up her abode on the top of the temple of +Osiris, in that island, where, with the help of some mud walls, she +enclosed two comfortable rooms; and amused herself in observing the +customs and characters of the inhabitants, and exchanging little +articles with the Nubian women during Mr. Belzoni’s absence; and in +this she certainly displayed great courage, resolution, and patience. + +The party arrived at Ybsambul in the course of a few days; they were +disappointed in finding that the Cacheffs were not there, but at Jomas, +opposite Deir. They sent an express, to inform them that they were come +with permission to open the temple, and in the meantime proceeded to +the second Cataracts. Previous to their arrival at Wady Halfa, they +followed the side of the Nile, as far as they could go with their +boat, and then landed and walked three or four miles to the rock Aspir +for the delightful views, which you remember Belzoni saw on his first +excursion, tempted him to wish to behold them once more, and to observe +the pleasure with which his companions would look upon them; but the +islands did not appear so numerous, nor did the water form those +foaming eddies, which had before so finely interspersed the views with +white and green. Notwithstanding, the whole was very grand, and Belzoni +was much gratified in seeing it again. + +Having returned to the boat, they passed the night on the same side of +the river. The next morning they crossed the water, and entered into +an inlet of the Nile, where they moored their bark, near the village +of Wady Halfa, and returned in the evening to Ybsambul. However, they +did not find the Cacheffs there. But after exercising the patience of +our travellers by keeping them waiting a whole week, they appeared, +and took up their abode in some small huts made of rushes, on a sandy +bank of the river. Here Belzoni and his friends waited upon them, and +obtained permission to recommence the operation of opening the temple +the following morning, with the assistance of thirty men. + +In the morning the men made their appearance, and the work was +recommenced with much enthusiasm and many sanguine hopes. You recollect +the immense mass of sand that obstructed the entrance. Belzoni +judged by calculations that it was not less than thirty-five feet +in thickness--thicker than our house is high! This sand was a mass, +accumulated by the winds for many centuries; and perhaps the phenomena +so common in Egypt had added to it. I mean the whirlwinds, which occur +all the year round, but especially at the time of the poisonous wind. +This wind generally blows from the south-west, and lasts several days; +so very strong, that it raises the sands to a great height, forming a +thick cloud in the air. The caravans cannot proceed in the Deserts; +the boats cannot continue their voyages: the whole is like a chaos. +Frequently a quantity of sand and small stones gradually ascend to a +great height, and form a column sixty or seventy feet in diameter, +and so thick, that, were it steady on one spot, it would appear a +solid mass. This not only revolves within its own circumference, but +runs in a circular direction over a great space of ground, sometimes +maintaining itself in motion for half an hour; and where it falls, it +accumulates a hill of sand. It is in this way only that I can account +for the prodigious quantity accumulated before the door of the temple. + +It was Belzoni’s principal object to reach that door, as the most +speedy means of entering it. He divided the men into two parties, +and stationed one on each side of the colossus that stood over the +entrance. They worked pretty well, but were so few that the little +sand they removed could scarcely be perceived. Seeing that it would +be a very tedious business if carried on in this way, Belzoni made a +proposal to the Cacheff to pay three hundred piastres for opening the +temple, which was agreed to by both Cacheff and workmen. + +OWEN.--Three hundred piastres, mother! is it possible? As much money as +would have bought three wives at Gournou! + +MRS. A.--They continued their labour for three days with much ardour, +supposing they could finish it in that time; but on the evening of the +third day there was as little prospect of seeing the door as on the +first. They became tired at last, and, under some pretence, left the +temple, the sand, and the treasure, contenting themselves with keeping +the three hundred piastres, which had unfortunately been paid to them +beforehand. + +Thus deserted, Belzoni and his friends took the resolution to work at +the sand themselves. They were only seven: but the crew offered their +services, and thus they became fourteen in all. + +Finding that one of them did as much work as one to five of their +selfish workmen, they were well satisfied, and determined to continue. +They rose every morning at the dawn of day, and left off two hours +and a half after sun rise. After continuing their operation regularly +for some days, they perceived a rough projection from the wall, which +apparently indicated that the work was unfinished, and no door to be +found there. + +The hopes of some of the party began to fail. Nevertheless, as you +did this morning, Bernard, they persevered in their exertions, and +completed their work: for, three days afterwards, they discovered a +broken cornice, the following day the torus, and of course the frieze +under, which made them almost sure of finding the door the next day. +Accordingly Belzoni erected a palisade to keep the sand up, and to +his great satisfaction, saw the upper part of the door as the evening +approached. They dug away enough sand to be able to enter that night; +but supposing the air in the cavity might be unpleasant, they deferred +this till the following day. + +Early in the morning of the first of August they went to the temple, +in high spirits at the idea of entering a newly-discovered place. They +endeavoured to enlarge the entrance as much as they could, and, soon +making the passage wider, they entered the finest and most extensive +excavation in Nubia: one that can stand a competition with any in +Egypt, except the tomb more recently discovered in Beban el Malook. + +From what they could perceive at the first view, it was evidently a +very large place: but their astonishment increased when they found it +to be one of the most magnificent of temples, enriched with statues, +paintings, and figures! They entered at first into a very long portico, +supported by two rows of enormous square pillars. Both these and the +walls were covered with beautiful hieroglyphics, which exhibited +battles, storming of castles, triumphs over Ethiopians, and various +sacrifices. + +I will explain to you the meaning of _hieroglyphics_. + +The Egyptians, before the invention of letters, from their observations +on the various properties of animals and plants, and from their +knowledge of the uses of different instruments also, had, with their +accustomed ingenuity, derived a variety of devices or emblems; and +by these, disposed in certain attitudes, they could make historical +records, which would be very intelligible to those who were +acquainted with their system; and such devices or emblems are called +_hieroglyphics_. + +You may suppose if Belzoni had been able to decipher the hieroglyphics +which had been thus discovered, that he would have become acquainted +with the whole history of the country; but with all his knowledge he +was almost as much unacquainted as we are with the hieroglyphical +system. It is many hundred years since it was in general use; for +when those simple and easy characters, the letters, were found out, +emblematical signs were laid aside. + +Letters are believed to be the invention of some wise Egyptian in the +reign of Cadmus, King of Thebes. + +BERNARD.--Why do you say, _they are believed to be_, mother? Cannot you +be quite sure? + +MRS. A.--I do not wish to be quite sure, my love. As I was not living +in the reign of Cadmus, I cannot pretend to prove the truth of the +assertion, though I see little reason to doubt it. Egypt is called the +_mother of science_, you know. It was an ingenious invention whoever +the inventor might be. For, by combining letters, every sound can be +represented: but when hieroglyphics were in use, of course there were +as many characters as ideas. + +The characters now used for the signs of the zodiac and the planets are +specimens of hieroglyphics; and so is a circle, or snake with its tail +in its mouth, when used to signify eternity. Flames, which are ever +moving, represent light and life; the lion or bull, indicates strength; +the hawk, swiftness; and so on. I will tell you more about them another +time. + +Let us now accompany Belzoni through his newly-discovered temple. + +The second hall into which they entered was very extensive, containing +four large pillars. Beyond this was a shorter chamber, in which was the +entrance into the sanctuary: the sanctuary contained a pedestal in the +centre, and at the end were four colossal figures. On the right side of +the great hall, entering into the temple, were two doors, at a short +distance from each other, which led into two long separate rooms, and +other rooms and galleries opened out of them: so you may imagine what a +fund of amusement and astonishment Belzoni met with at last. + +The outside of the temple was as magnificent as the interior. Only +fancy it three times the height of our house--the immense colossi--the +figure of Osiris twenty feet high, on the top of the door--the cornice +enriched with hieroglyphics, and the frieze beneath; and then think, +that this stupendous place was nearly two-thirds buried under the sand, +and you cannot fail to admire the labour and perseverance which must +have been exerted to obtain an entrance. + +Belzoni now experienced the truth of my motto; “LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.” +He was well compensated for all his toil and anxiety; he no longer +regarded the selfishness of the workmen: he no longer regretted the +want of mechanical powers; he had attained his wish; he had entered +the famous temple of Ybsambul excavated in the solid rock; and in the +course of a few weeks he returned, completely satisfied, to the little +island of Philoe, where Mrs. Belzoni joined the party, and accompanied +them to Thebes. + +EMILY.--And whilst there they intend to visit the valley of Beban el +Malook, and afterwards to explore the pyramids near Cairo. + +Will you tell us something more, mother? I believe that the celebrated +tomb of which we hear so much, at the Egyptian Hall, in London, is the +representation of one that Belzoni discovered in the valley of Beban el +Malook. Will you tell us how he came to discover it? + +MRS. A.--Not at present, my dear Emily. I must leave you now, but you +may go and amuse yourselves on the lawn, and tie up the little almond +tree, my love, that is almost blown down. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + Emily amused with a description of Greenland.--Belzoni makes + the valley of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.--He + enters and explores the tomb of Psammuthis.--Receives a visit + from Hamed Aga.--Returns to Cairo.--Visits the Pyramids.--Time + and purpose of their erection uncertain.--Enters one which + for more than one thousand years had appeared a solid mass of + stones. + + +EMILY.--Mother, I have been looking at a picture in the study of some +ice mountains in the frigid zone, and father has been talking to me +about the little Greenlanders. He tells me, that notwithstanding their +country is so cold and so desolate, they are extremely fond of it, and +would not upon any account exchange their barren rocks and mountains +of snow, for the spicy groves and flowery fields of warmer climates; +and what amused me more than all, mother, father says that two of its +inhabitants were brought to Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, you +know, a few years since, and they pined for want until they met with +some train oil, (what could be more disagreeable!) which they drank +with the same relish as we drink chocolate or wine; and they danced +about for joy when they found they were to be sent back to Greenland. + +Why do you think they like that cold country so much, mother?--The very +picture of it makes me shiver. + +MRS. A.--Habit, my dear little girl, renders every situation in life +easy, and it is natural to become attached to our native country. +Custom has taught the Greenlanders to struggle with the severity of the +most piercing winter, and suffer the hardships of a poor and scanty +subsistence. They scarcely know, even in idea, what enjoyment we derive +from our woods, and groves, and fields, whilst gentle zephyrs breathe +around, and the little birds seem to vie with each other in their +evening notes of gratitude and praise. They are unacquainted with the +delight we experience in watching the earliest buds of spring, and in +admiring the rich hues of summer flowers, or the ever-varying tints of +autumn. They cannot regret the loss of pleasures unknown to them. Their +year consists only of one night and one day: the sun never rising +during winter, nor setting while their short summer lasts. + + “There on an icy mountain’s height, + Seen only by the moon’s pale light, + Stern Winter rears his giant form, + His robe a mist, his voice a storm; + His frown the shiv’ring nations fly, + And hid for half the year in smoky caverns lie.” + +These caverns, their dwelling-places, are half under ground, roofed +over with beams and rafters; the walls are composed of sods and turfs, +and the interstices between are filled up with bushes, turf, and fine +earth, and above all is a covering of skins, which nicely defends the +inhabitants from the weather. The interior of the temple is not much +more respectable than the outward parts of it. There is neither door +nor chimney. Instead of the spacious hall usual in our houses, the +entrance is through a long dark passage, with so low a ceiling, that +those who go into it, are obliged to creep on their hands and knees. +In the place of paper hangings, and elegant curtains, the walls are +covered with the dried skins of bears, foxes, and other wild animals, +to keep out the damp. For want of glass, the openings to let in the +light are defended from cold by the membraneous substances of seals or +fish. A raised bench lined with skins, serves the purpose either of a +bed or a sofa, as they please, extending the whole length of the house, +and divided into little apartments by large skins, stretched from the +wall to the posts that support the roof, just like the stalls in a +stable. And each partition is inhabited by a different family, who can +carry on their own business without minding their neighbours. What +think you of the dwellings of the little Greenlanders? + +EMILY.--Indeed, mother, I own that I think myself very well off not +to be one of them; and yet, do you know, I should prefer one of their +smoky caverns to the dismal mummy caves of Gournou. Father says, that +although the countenances of the Greenlanders are unpleasing, and +their manners savage, they are not treacherous, like the Arabs who +attended Belzoni when he entered that melancholy mummy cave. We left +our traveller at Thebes, mother, and he was about to visit the tombs +of the kings; cannot you tell us something more about him? “Oh! do, +dearest mother, do!” cried Bernard, as the sound of Belzoni’s name +reached his ear; and notwithstanding Bernard was busily employed +in putting together his dissected map, he was eager to leave this +favourite employment to hear about the tombs of the kings; and he began +to arrange the pieces in order in his box. + +“There, there goes Russia; the large Russian empire, mother; and there +is Switzerland, with its lofty mountains, upon which the chamois goats +bound from crag to crag; the Swiss are as fond of their country as the +Greenlanders are of theirs, I know, by the song that Laura sings; the +_Ranz des Vaches_, mother; and there is Italy with its orange groves; +and there, Emily, goes your dear Lapland.” + +EMILY.--Laura says, that + + “E’en in _Lapland’s_ land of snow, + Lilies spring and roses blow.” + +Laura was lately reading Linnæus’s tour through Sweden and Lapland, +mother, and she says that he mentions many flowers which we consider +delicate, as flourishing there, and that the water crowfoot-- + +BERNARD.--Stop, dear Emily, the pieces are placed in the box in order +due, so pray leave your flowers and your _crowfoots_, and all the +rest of it, and come and sit by mother and hear her talk to us about +Belzoni. I guess we shall have some wonderful accounts; you know he +is going to Beban el Malook, and I am sure that, for my part, I would +much rather hear about the tombs of the kings in the valley of Beban el +Malook, than all that you can tell about Linnæus and his flowers. + +EMILY.--Ah, Bernard! you are no more of a botanist than Mahomed Ali, +who amused himself with shooting across the Nile, at an earthen pot, +even when he was surrounded by Flora’s beauties. But I am as fond of +Belzoni as you are, so please to go on, dear mother. + +MRS. A.--When our travellers arrived at Luxor, which town is not far +from Thebes, you recollect they took up their former abode in the sekos +of the temple, and found themselves at home again, for both these +places were now become familiar to them. The two captains set off for +Cairo, and Mr. Beechey began to take drawings of the different views, +whilst Belzoni recommenced his researches at Gournou. He there found +two more agents of Mr. Drouetti, busied in digging the ground in all +directions, and who had been tolerable successful in their pursuit +after mummies. + +OWEN.--How unfortunate, mother! I wish that troublesome Mr. Drouetti +would keep his agents in Alexandria, and not let them come to disturb +Belzoni’s plans. Were these two fresh agents as disagreeable as the +two Copts, who interrupted him before, and caused him to travel upon a +donkey by day and night, from Minieh to Thebes? + +MRS. A.--These men were not Copts, but Piedmontese, natives of +Piedmont, one of the most populous and delightful parts of Italy. +Although they did interfere with Belzoni’s plans at Gournou, they did +him no injury in the end: for when he found that it was in vain to +proceed with his work there, he made the valley of Beban el Malook the +scene of his researches, being confirmed in the opinion that there was +a sufficient prospect to encourage him to commence his operation, in +hopes of discovering the tombs of the kings. + +The valley of Beban el Malook is the place where the kings of Egypt +were buried, and he thought that he might possibly discover some of +their relics. It is completely separated from Gournou by a chain of +high mountains, that also divides Thebes from the valley. The same +rocks, indeed, surround the sacred ground, which can be visited only +by a single natural entrance, that is formed like a gateway, or by +the craggy path across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out of +the solid rock, which is of hard calcareous or lime-stone, as white +as it is possible for stone to be. They consist in general of a long +passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery at each +side of it, and other chambers. Advancing farther, wider apartments +present themselves, and other passages and stairs, until at length the +traveller finds himself in a large hall, where the great sarcophagus, +containing the remains of the kings is laid. + +Belzoni was furnished with twenty men, and began in good spirits to +search for the tombs of the monarchs of Thebes. + +His only guide was the knowledge he had acquired in his many researches +among the tombs of Gournou. He is a gentleman of great observation, +you know, and he found that the Egyptians had a particular manner of +forming the entrances into their tombs, which gave him many leading +ideas to the discovery of them. Three days after the excavations had +commenced, the first tomb was discovered; the entrance indicated +it to be a very large one, but it proved to be only the passage of +one that was never finished. However, this partial success gave him +encouragement, as it assured him that his idea respecting their +situation was correct. In the evening of the same day another tomb was +discovered, but nothing particularly remarkable was observed in it. +The next morning an entrance was made into another, containing many +chambers and passages. But it was not till some days after this that +Belzoni pointed out the fortunate spot which repaid him for all his +trouble, and compensated him for all the mortification he had received +from the operations of the Piedmontese. He says that this day gave +him more pleasure and more gratification than wealth could purchase, +arising from the discovery of what had long been sought in vain, and +of presenting the world with a new and perfect monument of Egyptian +antiquity; which can be recorded as superior to any other in point of +grandeur, style, and preservation, appearing as if just finished on +the day they entered it; indeed, what was found in it will show its +superiority to the others. + +Not fifteen yards from the last tomb, Belzoni caused the earth to be +opened, at the foot of a steep hill, and under a torrent, which, when +it rains in the desert, pours a great quantity of water over the very +spot he had caused to be dug. + +One could hardly imagine that the ancient Egyptians would make the +entrance into such an immense and superb excavation just under a +torrent of water, but Belzoni had strong reasons for supposing it +from indications he had observed. The Fellahs, who were accustomed to +dig, were all of opinion that there was nothing in that spot, as the +situation of this tomb differed from that of any other. He continued +the work, however, and the next day he perceived the part of the rock +that was cut and formed the entrance. Early on the following morning +the task was resumed, and about noon the workmen reached the entrance, +which was eighteen feet below the surface of the ground. The appearance +indicated that the tomb was of the first rate, but Belzoni did not +expect to find so magnificent a one as it really proved to be. + +The workmen possessed but a small portion of their employer’s +resolution and perseverance; and they advanced till they saw it was +probably a large tomb, when they protested they could go no farther, +because it was so much choked up with large stones, which they could +not get out of the passage. Belzoni descended and examined the place, +pointing out to them where they might dig, and in the course of an hour +there was room enough for him to enter, through a passage that the +earth had left under the ceiling of the first corridor; at the end of +this corridor he came to a long staircase, at the foot of which a door +opened into a still longer passage, each side of which was sculptured +with hieroglyphics in basso relievo. + +The more Belzoni saw, the more he wished to see, which was very +natural; when our curiosity is excited, it is quite right to gratify +it, especially if the object be laudable. + +His anxiety was, however, checked for a time, for at the end of this +long corridor he reached a large pit, which intercepted his progress. +This pit was as deep as our house is high. + +On the opposite side of the pit, facing the entrance, Belzoni +perceived a small aperture, only two feet wide and two feet high, and +at the bottom of the wall a quantity of rubbish. A rope fastened to a +piece of wood that was laid across the passage against the projections +which formed a kind of door, appeared to have been used by the ancients +for descending into the pit; and from the small aperture on the +opposite side hung another, which reached the bottom, no doubt for the +purpose of ascending. They could clearly perceive that the water that +entered these passages from the torrents of rain, ran into this pit, +and the wood and rope fastened to it crumbled to dust on touching them. +At the bottom of the pit were several pieces of wood, placed against +the side of it, so as to assist the person who was to ascend by the +rope into the aperture. + +Belzoni saw the impossibility of advancing at the moment, and Mr. +Beechey, who was with him, was also disappointed of advancing any +farther. However, the next day, by means of a long beam, they succeeded +in sending a man up into the aperture, and having contrived to make a +little bridge of two beams, they crossed the pit, which was fourteen +feet wide, twelve feet long, and thirty feet deep. + +[Illustration] + +OWEN.--How much pleasure Belzoni would have lost if he had not been +so courageous! To what place did that small aperture lead, mother? I +wonder why the Egyptians took so much pains: always to have crossed +that terrible pit must have been very troublesome. + +MRS. A.--They found this little aperture to be merely an opening forced +through a wall, that had entirely closed the entrance, which was as +large as the corridor. The Egyptians had closely shut it up, plastered +the wall over, and painted it like the rest of the sides of the pit, +so that but for the aperture, it would have been impossible to suppose +that there was any farther proceeding; and one would have concluded +that the tomb ended with the pit. + +Belzoni and his friend entered this narrow aperture. When they had +passed through it, they found themselves in a large and beautiful hall, +in which were four square pillars. At the end of this entrance hall +was a large door, from which three steps led down into a chamber with +two pillars. Belzoni gave this room the name of the drawing-room, to +distinguish it from the others; it was covered with figures, which +though only outlined, were so fine and perfect, that one might think +they had been drawn only the day before. Returning into the entrance +hall, they found a large staircase descending into a corridor, which +they entered. They perceived that the paintings became more perfect as +they advanced farther into the interior; the varnish that was laid over +the colours had a fine effect, and it was astonishing that they were in +such good preservation. This corridor led them to a smaller chamber, +which they called the room of beauties. + +They named it so, I suppose, because it was adorned with such beautiful +figures in basso relievo and painted; when standing in the centre of +this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by an assembly of Egyptian +gods and goddesses. Proceeding onwards they entered a large hall, in +which there were two rows of square pillars. Belzoni named this, the +hall of pillars. + +A step at the end of this hall of pillars led into a large saloon, with +an arched roof or ceiling, and there were entrances from this saloon +into many other large rooms and chambers; but what Belzoni found in +the centre of the saloon delighted him more than any thing else, and +sufficiently compensated for the danger he had undergone in crossing +the little bridge over the great pit, and creeping through the narrow +aperture. + +It was a sarcophagus of the finest oriental alabaster, nine feet long +and three feet wide, transparent, and minutely sculptured within +and without with several hundred figures, representing, I suppose, +the whole of the funeral processions and ceremonies relating to the +deceased king, united with emblems and other devices. To give you an +accurate account of all Mr. Belzoni saw in this tomb, would take us too +long; you must visit the _fac simile_, as Laura calls it, in London, +and then your curiosity will be gratified by seeing representations of +the drawings, paintings, hieroglyphics, emblems, and ornaments which it +contained. + +[Illustration] + +OWEN.--But were these devices of no use at all, mother? Could not +Belzoni decipher them sufficiently to know what monarch was laid +there? + +MRS. A.--As I have told you before, my dear, the hieroglyphical +system has for many years been thrown aside, therefore it is almost +impossible fully to ascertain any facts conveyed by it. A gentleman +of distinguished eminence in literature has, however, lately employed +much of his time in endeavouring to find the right key for reading +this almost unknown language. If he succeed in his arduous and +difficult undertaking, he will be enabled to give to the world the +history of one of the most primitive nations, of which we are now +nearly ignorant. In the hall of pillars, which I mentioned just now, a +company of Ethiopians were painted, and distinguished by their colour +and ornaments. The gentleman of whom I am speaking found the name +of Psammuthis inserted among the hieroglyphics. Psammuthis made war +against the Ethiopians; it is therefore supposed to be his tomb. The +Arabs made great report of Belzoni’s discovery; it came at last to the +ears of Hamed Aga of Kenneh, and he was told that great treasure was +found in the tomb. + +This was sufficient to excite his curiosity, but not enough to gratify +it. When the important news reached him, he collected his soldiers +together and departed immediately for Thebes, which is generally a +journey of two days, but he travelled with such rapidity as to arrive +in the valley of Beban el Malook in thirty-six hours. + +EMILY.--Belzoni must have been very much amused when he saw him, +mother, knowing that he was come on such a foolish expedition; and +Hamed Aga himself must have been not a little mortified to find his +trouble was fruitless: for I do not fancy the paintings and figures +gave him much pleasure. + +MRS. A.--Before his arrival, some Arabs conveyed the intelligence to +Belzoni and his friend that they saw from the tops of the mountains a +great many Turks on horseback, entering the valley and coming towards +them. + +Belzoni could not conceive who they could be, as he had never seen any +Turks near the spot. Half an hour after they gave the signal of their +approach by firing several guns. + +Belzoni at first fancied that it might be an armed force sent to storm +the tombs and rocks, and to destroy the hall of pillars and the room +of beauties! but he soon found that it was the well known Hamed Aga of +Kenneh, for some time commander of the eastern side of Thebes, and his +followers. + +OWEN.--But what business had he to go to the valley of Beban el Malook? +It is on the west, you know, and consequently under another ruler. + +BERNARD.--Oh, I suppose that in case of a treasure being discovered, +the first that hears of it takes it for granted that _he_ is entitled +to it! + +MRS. A.--Yes: as a matter of privilege. When Hamed Aga was introduced +to Belzoni, he smiled and saluted him very cordially; perhaps a +little self-interest induced him to do so. They caused several lights +to be brought, and descended together into the tomb. The symbolical +representations on the walls of this extraordinary place did not +attract his attention in the least; all the striking figures and lively +paintings were lost upon him; his views were directed to the _treasure_ +alone, and his attendants, equally regardless of real beauties, sought +in every hole and corner in hopes of finding the wished-for-prize. +Nothing, however, appearing, to satisfy their master or themselves, +after a long and minute survey, the Aga ordered the soldiers to retire, +and whispered to Belzoni in a cautious manner, “Pray where have you put +the treasure?” “What treasure?” said Belzoni. “The treasure you found +in this place,” replied Hamed. Our friend smiled, as well he might do, +at the question, and assured him that he had found no treasure there; +but this only confirmed the troublesome Aga in his supposition. He +laughed, and still continued to entreat that it might be shown him, +adding, “I have been told by a person to whom I can give credit, that +you have found in this place a large golden cock filled with diamonds +and pearls. I must see it. Where is it?” + +Belzoni could scarcely refrain from laughing, whilst he assured +him that nothing of the kind had been found there. Seeming quite +disappointed, Hamed seated himself before the beautiful sarcophagus, to +Belzoni’s great dismay, who dreaded that he would take it into his head +that this was the treasure, and break it to pieces, to see whether +it contained any gold; and, as their notions of treasure are confined +to gold and jewels, I own there seemed some danger of it. At last, +however, he gave up the idea of the expected riches, and rose to go out +of the tomb. Belzoni asked him what he thought of the beautiful figures +painted all around. He just gave an indifferent glance at them, saying, +“this would be a good place for a harem, as the women would have +something to look at.” And though only half persuaded that there was no +treasure, he set off with an appearance of disappointment and vexation. + +EMILY.--I do not like that Hamed Aga of Kenneh, at all! He had no +taste, had he mother? + +MRS. A.--What do you call taste? + +EMILY.--Laura says, that it is the power which the mind possesses of +admiring and relishing the beauties found in nature and art: therefore +I imagine Hamed Aga had none: and he makes me think of a passage I was +reading yesterday, mother; about a Frenchman, who, when he saw the sea +for the first time, said that it was _assez jolie_. + +MRS. A.--Some of Akenside’s beautiful lines occur to me: + + “Say what is Taste, but the internal powers + Active and strong, and feelingly alive + To each fine impulse?--a discerning sense + Of decent and sublime, with quick disgust + From things deformed.” + +Though our Aga did not possess this “internal power” in any eminent +degree, we must not judge that it is confined to the polished part +of mankind only; on the contrary, it is as common to a rude state of +society as to an early period of life. Even the _wild_ tribes, who +inhabit the back settlements of America, contemplate their extensive +lakes, the Ohio and the Ontario, with astonishment, and gaze upon the +starry heavens with delight. Although born in so rude a state, they are +“feelingly alive to each fine impulse.” + +Belzoni having embarked all that was found this season, left Thebes +with another accumulation of antiquities, and arrived at Boolac after +ten months’ absence. + +He there engaged Signor Ricci, a young man from Italy, to return +with him to Thebes, and to make drawings and imitations of the +hieroglyphics. Mrs. Belzoni resolved to visit the Holy Land in the +mean time, and to wait for Belzoni at Jerusalem, whither he intended +going when the model of the tomb was completed. She did not admire the +inhabitants of Luxor and Thebes; and the idea of visiting the Holy Land +had first induced her to accompany Mr. Belzoni into Egypt; therefore +thinking this a good opportunity, she left Cairo attended by the Irish +boy and a Janizary. + +Belzoni however, before he returned to Thebes, determined to visit +the Pyramids in company with two other Europeans. You recollect that +when Belzoni was first at Cairo he visited them, and that they are +scattered about on the Libyan desert, to the west of that place. + +There is so little agreement upon the subject of the builders of the +Pyramids, either among the natives or historians, that we, like Pliny, +must consider this uncertainty as a just reward of the vanity of +those by whom they were actually erected; and of course, as we cannot +determine who were the builders of them, we should only mis-spend our +time by attempting to fix the period of their erection. I believe +that their _least_ antiquity must be near three thousand years, as +Herodotus, who you know was one of our first historians, and who lived +above two thousand years ago, found so little satisfaction in his +enquiries after them; and Diodorus, who also lived before the birth of +our Saviour, supposes the great pyramid to have been built one thousand +years before his time. + +EMILY.--Will you tell me, dear mother, why the uncertainty in which +we are left respecting them, should be a just reward of the vanity of +those by whom they were erected? I do not understand what you mean by +saying so. + +MRS. A.--It is generally supposed that these pyramids were designed as +tombs and monuments for the dead; and does it not appear to you, my +dear Emily, that a little vanity must have actuated men to spend so +much time and be at so much expense for such a purpose; intending, as +it were to convey to future ages proofs of their power, and mementos of +their greatness? + +I am not so uncharitable, however, as to suppose that this was the +only motive for which they were built. The Egyptian theology taught +its votaries, that if the body was destroyed after death the soul +underwent transmigration into the bodies of all sorts of animals for +three thousand years, and at the end of that space returned to a +human, though not to the original form, as that would be destroyed by +that time; but so long as the body was preserved the soul continued +with it, and thus avoided for so much of the three thousand years the +unhappiness of these transformations; this may account for the great +pains and curious precautions of the Egyptians with regard to their +deceased friends. + +EMILY.--I am glad to hear this, mother, for I shall be no longer +puzzled with wondering what so many tombs and monuments were for: and +the motive for embalming the mummies is now very clear. And now for the +pyramids. + +MRS. A.--Some of the pyramids had an entrance, and were known to be +hollow, and others had not. Whilst Belzoni’s friends went into the +first pyramid, which is nearly the height of St. Paul’s Cathedral in +London, he seated himself on a large stone near the second pyramid, +which is about the same height, and fixed his eyes on that enormous +mass, which for so many ages has baffled the conjectures of ancient and +modern writers. + +[Illustration] + +Should you not like to know all the thoughts that passed through his +mind as he sat upon that great stone. + +The sight of this amazing work astonished him, as much as the total +obscurity in which we are of its origin, its interior, and its +construction. One of the greatest wonders of the world stood before +him, without his knowing whether it had any cavity within, or whether +it was only one solid mass. + +Various attempts had been made by numerous travellers to find an +entrance into this pyramid, but so ineffectually, that there seemed +little probability that even our enterprising Belzoni could succeed. +However, experience had taught him to anticipate success! and he knew +very well that the greatest difficulties may be overcome by patience +and perseverance. + +He rose at length, and by an involuntary impulse, walked round the +pyramid, surveying every part, and almost every stone. When he came +on the north side he observed indications that induced him to attempt +searching there for an entrance. He perceived an accumulation of huge +stones; consequently he had some hopes of finding a passage under this +heap of ruins. + +The following day he resolved to make a closer examination, without +communicating his secret to any one. This review encouraged him in the +attempt, and he applied without loss of time to the Bey for men to +assist him in penetrating one of the great pyramids of Egypt--one of +the wonders of the world! + +Accordingly he left Cairo, having provided himself with a small tent +and some provisions, that he might not be obliged to return to the +city. He found eighty Arabs ready to work, and immediately set about +the operation. They were daily paid one piastre (or sixpence) each. +Several boys and girls of your age were also employed to carry away the +earth as the men dug it. Belzoni contrived to ensure their good will by +trifles and presents, and by pointing out to them the advantage they +would gain if they succeeded in penetrating into the pyramid, as many +strangers would come to see it, and they would get bakshis from them. + +Belzoni knew that nothing has so much influence on the mind of an Arab +as reasoning with him about his own interest, and showing him the right +way to benefit himself. He does not seem to understand any thing else. + +These Arabs worked with earnestness for some days; but after many vain +expectations, and much labour in removing the mortar, which was so hard +that their hatchets, which were the only instruments that could be +procured, were nearly all broken, they began to flag in their prospect +of finding any thing; and Belzoni seemed about to become an object +of ridicule, for making the attempt to penetrate into a place which +appeared to them, as well as to more civilized people, a mere mass of +stone! + +The cause of the pyramid appearing like a solid rock was, that the +mortar which fell from the upper part of it had been moistened by the +dew (for in spring and summer very heavy dews fall in Egypt at night,) +and had gradually formed itself into one mass with the stones. + +Belzoni’s hopes did not forsake him, notwithstanding so many +difficulties presented themselves; and the Arabs, although their zeal +was somewhat lessened, did not cease to work as long as they received +a daily piastre. At last, after sixteen days of fruitless toil, one of +the Arabian workmen perceived a small chink between two stones of the +pyramid. Belzoni could just thrust a long palm stick into it, which +he did upwards of two yards; and the Arab was equally delighted with +himself, thinking that _he_ had found the entrance so eagerly sought +for. + +Encouraged by this circumstance, the people resumed their former +vigour, and the work went on rapidly. After removing one of these +stones, and a great quantity of sand and rubbish, they came to an +opening inwards. Having made it wide enough to enter, Belzoni took +a candle in his hand, and, looking in, perceived a spacious cavity, +of which he could form no conjecture. The size of the entrance was +increased, and he found that it was a forced passage, probably intended +to find a way to the centre of the pyramid. But the hope that this +would lead to the real entrance was in vain: it gave him none, and +after much trouble in enlarging it, he remained as ignorant as he was +before he began. + +He gave a day’s rest to the Arabs after this disappointment, and +dedicated the interim of their repose to a closer inspection of the +stupendous pile; for he was determined on the accomplishment of his +intended purpose. + +OWEN.--I suppose that the ill success of the discovery of the forced +passage was considered as a failure. However, I hope he will not give +it up. I dare say the thought of Young Memnon, and of the temple of +Ybsambul, gave him encouragement. + +MRS. A.--The result of this day of researches was, that it would +be better to begin in another part; and accordingly the Arabs were +again set to work. They liked to receive their money, but they had no +expectation that an entrance would ever be found! and Belzoni often +heard them uttering in a low voice, “_magnoon!_” which is, in plain +English, madman! However, they went on with their excavations, and +in a few days Belzoni discovered a large block of granite: this gave +him much pleasure. The next day three large blocks of granite were +uncovered. His expectation and hope increased; as, to all appearance, +he was near attaining the object of his search. Happily he was not +mistaken; for on the next day, the 2d of March, 1818, at noon, they +came to the right entrance into the pyramid. It proved to be a passage +only four feet high, and it was almost filled up with large stones, +which had fallen from the upper part. With some difficulty the stones +were drawn out of this passage: and it was not until the evening of the +next day that they reached solid rock. + +At first sight it appeared to be a fixed block of stone, and said _ne +plus ultra_, as if ready to put an end to all Belzoni’s projects. On a +close inspection, however, Mr. Belzoni perceived that, at the bottom, +this immense block was raised about eight inches from the groove cut to +receive it, and that it formed in fact a portcullis, or sliding door of +granite, one foot three inches thick. To raise it was a work of immense +difficulty, but it obeyed Mr. Belzoni’s talisman, perseverance; and it +was raised high enough for a man to pass. An Arab entered with a torch, +and returned saying the place within was very fine. + +They continued by unwearied efforts to raise the portcullis, and at +last made the opening large enough for Belzoni to enter it; and, after +thirty days’ exertion, he had the pleasure of finding himself in the +way to the central chamber of one of the two mighty pyramids of Egypt. +Having passed through several long passages cut out of the solid rock, +he reached a door at the centre of a large chamber, and, walking two +or three steps, stood still to contemplate the place where he was. It +was a striking scene. He was in the centre of that pyramid which, from +time immemorial, has been the subject of the obscure conjectures of +many hundred travellers, both ancient and modern, and against whose +hollow sides the sound of a human voice had not re-echoed for more than +a thousand years! + +EMILY.--Oh, mother! how awful it must have been! This was better +than all--even than entering the temple of Ybsambul, or the tomb of +Psammuthis! + +MRS. A.--Belzoni’s torch, formed of a few wax candles, but faintly +glimmered; and he looked round the spot where not a ray of light had +penetrated for more than eleven centuries! He was in the middle of one +of those stupendous pyramids, which, in defiance of the ravages of +time, still remain as monuments of ancient magnificence, and of the +evanescent glory of those by whom they were erected. + +In the central chamber, which is cut out of the solid rock, except the +roof, which is built of blocks of stone, he found, buried on a level +with the floor, a sarcophagus eight feet long three feet six inches +wide and two feet three inches deep. It was surrounded with large +blocks of granite, apparently intended to prevent its removal. Its +lid was partly off, and it contained a quantity of earth, stones and +some bones. From an Arabic inscription on the wall of this chamber, it +appears that some of the Arab rulers of Egypt had opened this pyramid, +and closed it again. + +When Belzoni had examined, and entered and re-entered the many chambers +and passages within the pyramid, he returned to open daylight, highly +gratified with the result of his researches: and I imagine, Owen, that +he felt no small degree of satisfaction in applying to himself our +favourite motto-- + +OWEN.--“_Labor omnia vincit_,” mother! and it shall be _my_ motto, +whenever I have any thing difficult to do. + +MRS. A.--In a few days, Belzoni, having settled his affairs, became +anxious to return to the valley of Beban el Malook; and not omitting +to provide himself with every thing necessary for forming models and +impressions of the figures, emblems, and hieroglyphics in the tomb of +Psammuthis, he set off for his old habitation among the sepulchres of +Thebes. + +BERNARD.--Do let us follow him, dear mother: I am very glad he had +such success in entering the pyramid, and I hope he will have as much +in every thing that he undertakes, I see that patience is a very good +quality, mother. + +MRS. A.--So it is, my dear boy; and if you will exercise it till +to-morrow evening, I mean to tell you something more. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going + there.--Inundation of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the + Desert.--Account of Ababde, an independent tribe, residing + among the rocks on the coast of the Red Sea.--Journey in search + for the ancient city of Berenice. + + +Evening came. The curtains were drawn; the candles lighted; and the +juvenile party seated around their mother. “Mother always fulfils her +promise,” whispered Bernard to Emily: “we need not put her in mind of +Belzoni.” + +MRS. A. overheard her little boy, smiled, and resumed her narrative: + +Our friend was just about to return to the tombs of the kings when we +took leave of him last night, I believe. After a rapid and agreeable +voyage up the Nile, he arrived there and immediately proceeded to take +drawings and models, which employment detained him some months. + +And we are now going to accompany him to the Red Sea, which lies +between Egypt and Arabia. You shall soon hear what inducement Belzoni +had for going to the Red Sea. + +Our old friend, Mahomed Ali, the Bashaw, had been informed that there +were some sulphur mines in the mountains near the seacoast, and had +sent an escort of soldiers and sixty camels to load with sulphur: +but they had not succeeded in procuring it. However, this poor +success, did not discourage Ali, who was always ready to persevere +in any enterprise. I dare say you recollect that he was of an active +inquisitive disposition; fond of new projects and new pursuits. He +was delighted with the electrical machine, because he had never seen +one before: he had a sugar-mill, a silk manufacture, and a gunpowder +mill; and now he wanted sulphur. Sulphur is used in the composition of +gunpowder: probably that was what he wanted it for. + +He was advised to send some Europeans to the Red Sea, who might bring +him word whether it were worth while to proceed in the discovery of +sulphur. Monsieur Calliaud undertook the task, and set off, accompanied +by an escort of soldiers, and miners from Syria. But he found the +mines as sterile as they had been described, and returned back: not +neglecting, however, to visit the emerald mountains in his way, +according to instructions he had received from his former employer, Mr. +Drouetti. He found several caves or mines in those mountains which had +evidently been left by the ancients. + +Belzoni saw Monsieur Calliaud, and his account tempted him to commence +his expedition. Monsieur Calliaud told him that there were mines in +the country, and also that he had visited a place called Sakiet Minor, +situated in a valley near the sea, and surrounded by high rocks. From +the account he gave Belzoni, a notion became impressed on the minds +of many antiquaries in Egypt that it must have been the ancient city +of Berenice; and from the moment our friend heard this report, he +conceived the idea of making an excursion into those deserts on a visit +to Berenice, and only waited a proper time to execute his intended +journey. + +Time had almost destroyed every remnant of the city; but Calliaud +reported that he had discovered the remains of eight hundred houses, +and several temples, as well as a small chapel cutout of the rock, and +that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. Of course, our enterprising +antiquary was anxious to inspect the remains of this once celebrated +place, and having hired a boat to take them to Edfu, they embarked near +Gournou. The company consisted of himself, Mr. Beechey, a doctor who +was going to cross the Desert, two Greek servants, a miner, and two +boys to take care of the baggage. + +It so happened that just after they commenced their journey, they were +to behold one of the greatest calamities that have occurred in Egypt +in the recollection of any one living. The Nile rose this season three +feet above its usual height, with uncommon rapidity, and carried off +several villages and some hundreds of their inhabitants. + +Belzoni witnessed this distressing scene, and he says that he never +saw any picture that could give a more correct idea of the deluge +than the valley of the Nile at this season. The Arabs had expected an +extraordinary inundation this year in consequence of the scarcity of +water the preceding year, but they did not apprehend it would rise to +such a height. + +They generally make fences of earth and reeds around their villages, +to keep the water from entering their houses; but the force of this +inundation baffled all their efforts. Their cottages, being built of +earth, could not stand one instant against the current, and the water +had no sooner reached them than it levelled them with the ground. The +rapid stream carried off all that was before it; men, women, children, +cattle, corn, every thing was washed away in a moment, and left the +place where the village Agalta stood, without any thing to indicate +that there had ever been a house on the spot. Belzoni says, they +appeared to be in the midst of a vast lake, containing various islands +and magnificent edifices. On one side they beheld the high rocks and +the temples of Gournou, and on the other the vast ruins of Carnac and +Luxor. He saw several villages in danger of being destroyed like that +of Agalta. The rapid stream had already carried away their fences, and +the unfortunate inhabitants endeavoured to ascend the highest parts, +with the little they could preserve from the water. Their distress was +very great. Some of them had only a few feet of land, and the water was +expected to rise twelve days more, and after that to remain twelve days +at its height, according to the usual term of the inundation. + +It was a most distressing sight. Some poor wretches crossed the water +on pieces of wood--bridges might have been contrived from one island +to another, but they would have been no security; some crossed on +buffaloes or cows, and others with reeds tied up in large bundles. The +small spots of high ground, that stood above the water were crowded +with people, who held out their hands and implored help. + +[Illustration] + +Poor creatures! There obliged to stand dreading every moment to be +washed away; or, at least without any hope of relief before the end of +twenty-four days. + +The scanty stock of provisions they had saved was the only subsistence +they could expect. The Cacheffs and Caimakans of the country did all +they could to assist the unfortunate creatures with their little boats, +but they were so few in proportion to what were wanted that they could +not relieve the greater part of them. + +Belzoni would, most willingly, have taken some in his own little boat, +but he knew it would be dangerous to attempt it, for so many would have +entered it at once that the boat would probably have sunk. + +On their arrival at Erments, where happily the land was very high, they +found many of the neighbouring people collected. + +Belzoni landed there, and employed his boat to fetch some of the poor +wretches. He was courageous, courage is generally united with humanity +and kindness. He was therefore rejoiced to find that he could be of +some little service, and his boat was sent again and again in company +with others to fetch the people from the opposite village. It at first +returned with men and boys; then with men, corn and cattle; then with +more corn, buffaloes, sheep, goats, asses, and dogs; and then with +the women, who, I am sorry to say, are there treated as the most +insignificant part of their property. + +With the gratifying reflection of having been of some little service, +our party arrived at Esne. + +Their old friend, Khalil Bey was from home; they therefore proceeded to +the island of Hovasee, on the opposite side of the Nile to Edfu. + +They stopped there only long enough to procure camels and men to +accompany them across the desert, and they went on shore on the eastern +side, and set off the next day. + +They had sixteen of those patient, gentle creatures, the camels; six +of them were laden with provisions, water, and culinary utensils. +Camels were much better than horses, because they are used to carry +merchandise across the large sandy plains, which would be impassable +unless Providence had created this useful animal, which is capable of +enduring hunger and fatigue, and wonderfully provided with a resource +against thirst by an internal formation, which enables it to drink at +one time water enough to serve it for many days. + +The party was increased by a soldier from Esne, four camel drivers, and +a Scheik to guide them. Fourteen men in all. + +[Illustration] + +Scheik Ibrahim their guide, was an Arab. He had engaged to attend the +caravan as chief, promising to conduct Belzoni and his friends to the +ancient Berenice. + +They set off very early in the morning, and arrived at the first +well in three hours. There they remained the whole day waiting for +Ibrahim, who had not yet joined them. However the following morning he +appeared, and they entered a good and level road through a valley. Many +sunt and sycamore trees were interspersed about this valley with the +thorny plant called basillah, upon which the camels feed. It is green +I believe in the spring, but it soon becomes dry, and of course of a +straw colour. It bears a small fruit of the size of a pea. The stalk +resembles that of a rush, and it never grows higher than three feet. + +As our party advanced, the valley became narrow, and the trees, in +some parts, thicker; but they gradually diminished until Belzoni and +his companions found themselves on a wide and open plain; they took up +their abode for the day at a sort of temple or enclosure, evidently +built for the accommodation of travellers. The next morning they +pursued their journey. Not the least vegetation was to be seen any +where. Sometimes they passed over wide and level plains, and sometimes +crossed hills of loose sand, till two hours before sunset, when they +entered a valley called Beezak by the Arabs. + +Several trees were scattered about in this valley, and the usual thorn +also, so the camels had a feast. They halted there for the night, and +Belzoni was gratified by perceiving the marks of camels’ feet impressed +on the sand, whence he concluded that he was on the great road to +Berenice. + +The next morning the caravan, as in the eastern countries they call a +company of travellers, who, for mutual protection and safety agree to +cross the desert regions together, was divided into three different +detachments. + +The luggage and provisions were sent forward; the doctor was ill, it +was therefore dangerous for him to proceed any farther and he returned +towards the Nile, whilst Mr. Belzoni and his friend Mr. Beechey went a +little out of the way to see something that the Ababde had mentioned. + +The Ababde, are an independent tribe, who, preferring freedom and +liberty to any thing else, reside among the solitary rocks and deserts +which extend from the confines of Suez to Nubia, on the borders of the +Red Sea, where they live upon dhourra and water. But such is their love +of liberty, that they would rather submit to this mode of life than to +the command of any government on earth. + +OWEN.--So would I! rather than be subject to the caprice of a +tyrannical power at all events. Liberty, independence, for me, mother! +Will you tell me something more about the Ababde? I admire them very +much. + +MRS. A.--Perhaps your admiration would be lessened were you to see +them: they are of small stature, badly made, and have generally a pipe +in their mouths. Sometimes, but not often, they kill a lean goat, and +this they consider a great feast. Their principal care is for their +camels, which are their support; for when they are arrived at a certain +growth they send them to be exchanged for dhourra, which as I have told +you constitutes their food. + +Some of the most industrious of the Ababde cut wood and make charcoal +with it, which they send to the Nile on their camels, and barter it for +dhourra, tallow, and tent cloth. Few, however, undergo such a labour, +for they like to live at their ease. + +BERNARD.--Well, mother, I would much rather be one of the harmless +Ababde, and cut down sunt trees among the rocks and deserts, load my +camel, and honestly earn the reward of my labour, than one of the +deceitful Arabs at Gournou. + +MRS. A.--The Arabs of Gournou seem to have made a strong impression +on your mind, my dear. However, I am of your opinion, that a poor and +honest life is preferable to one dependent upon mean resources. + +Belzoni entered with his friends into a sandy plain, with rocks of +white stone on each side nearly perpendicular, and passed through +several beautiful and romantic valleys. The soil was sandy and stony, +but the thorny trees and the sunt trees formed a complete forest in +many parts. One who wishes to retire from the world might find a +charming retreat in these wilds, were it not for the want of water, +and all that is necessary to the subsistence of human life, besides +the intense heat of the sun, which on calm days is so great as to be +almost insupportable. Advancing onwards, in three hours they reached a +summit, whence they perceived at some distance what appeared to be the +walls of a large and extensive town surrounded by high rocks, as if +by fortifications. On their approach, they found it was an extensive +sandy plain, with several granite eminences. From this place they +travelled to the left, towards the valley in which it was intended they +should halt. The caravan had reached the place before them, and they +proceeded on their march till they overtook it near a well, situated +in the midst of rocks, which, interspersed with trees, formed an +amphitheatre round it. There they remained a day or two. + +Whilst there, they were visited by a number of the Ababde. It was a +novelty for strangers to come so near them; the greater part of them +had never quitted their mountains, and those few who had been to the +Nile to purchase dhourra were accounted men of great knowledge. They +said that they were content to live in that wild state, as all their +forefathers had done, to remain free from tyranny and despotism; and +that they would be quiet if they were left so; but on the contrary they +would sooner perish than lose their liberty. + +You would have been amused if you could have seen with what curiosity +they eyed the strangers, and at their ignorance of things in common +use with us. One of them perceived a piece of lemon-peel lying on the +ground and wondered what it was, whilst another took it up and ate it +with an air of great self-sufficiency. I dare say he had been to the +Nile, and did so to show the great knowledge he had acquired--that +lemon-peel is good to eat. + +Belzoni gave them a piece of loaf sugar, and when they had eaten it, +they declared that the valley he came from must be better than theirs, +as it produced such good and sweet bread. + +OWEN.--Had they arms, mother? But I suppose not, for as their +neighbours did not injure them, of course they would not wish to +attack their neighbours. + +MRS. A.--Unfortunately they had some use for them, for the soldiers and +miners, who had accompanied Monsieur Calliaud to the emerald mines, +which are among these mountains, had behaved very ill towards them, +assailed their huts, and committed many depredations, of which the +Ababde complained very much. Their arms were chiefly slings, spears and +swords. + +Early on the morning of the 28th Belzoni and his party again set off, +and travelled for two days, when they saw the Red Sea at a great +distance, and bent their course through several valleys to a very high +mountain called Zubara. + +This name is given it in consequence of the emeralds which have +been found there. At the foot of this mountain about fifty men were +encamped, and at work in the old mines of the ancients, in hopes of +finding some of the precious stones. Their work had commenced about +six months before, but had been attended with no success, as the mines +were nearly choked up with rubbish. Belzoni contrived to acquire all +the information he could about the object of their expedition and +received very favourable accounts of it, being assured that the ruins +of the town of which he was in search was only six hours’ distance; +he therefore hoped to have a fine view of it before night. Whilst the +camels halted he went to see the entrances into the mines. They were +something like the common tombs or mummy pits at Gournou, cut in the +rock, and extended a great distance before the emeralds were found. +Belzoni procured an old man from among the natives to guide them to the +ruins of the anticipated Berenice, and sought information from some of +the miners who had been at the very place when Monsieur Calliaud was +there. Their accounts certainly did not correspond with his; he had +raised Belzoni’s expectations very highly, you know. + +EMILY.--Oh yes, mother. There must have been a city I am sure, for +Monsieur Calliaud told Mr. Belzoni that he had discovered the remains +of eight hundred houses, and several temples, as well as a small chapel +cut out of the rock, and that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. I +dare say that these people went only in search of mines, and did not +pay much regard to the beauties of architecture, or the grandeur of +ancient ruins! + +MRS. A.--So Belzoni thought; and, encouraged by this hope, they +prepared for a departure the following morning. When they had gone +about half a mile, they perceived that they were without their guides. +Both the Scheik Ibrahim, and the old man who was to conduct them over +the country to see the town and other places, were missing; they were +consequently obliged to return in search of them, and found them hid +behind a rock, conversing secretly with each other. + +This appeared rather suspicious, but they professed to have been in +search of a sheep which was stolen in the night, and they had nothing +else to live upon; but, as they said they could not find it, they again +set off for the much-desired and ancient city of Berenice. + +They trusted themselves to the guidance of the old man, though they +were not pleased with his manœuvres. The road lay through high rocks +and narrow valleys, embosomed with trees, until they had gradually +approached the mountain of Zubara, the highest of the emerald +mountains. Here they were led by the old man in various directions, +through wild and craggy places, for seven hours. He told that the +spot he wanted was near, but that they had a high pass to go over the +mountain named Arrarie. + +BERNARD.--Before we follow them, will you be so good as to tell me +where Pompeii is? Emily says that Monsieur Calliaud stated that the +ruins of Berenice resembled those of that city. + +MRS. A.--It was once a large city of Italy, my love, but was +overwhelmed by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius. About fifty years since, +a farmer was digging for a spring of water or deep ditch, when he came +to the top of magnificent buildings. This was the first discovery for +many hundred years; and now several streets and the ruins of many +majestic buildings have been discovered. The name of the place was +Pompeii. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Search for the ancient city of Berenice.--The boats of the + Ababde fishermen described.--Discovers the remains of the + Berenice mentioned by a former traveller.--Returns towards + Esne.--Meets with two shepherd girls tending their sheep on + the mountains.--Sufferings of travellers in crossing the + Deserts.--The caravan reaches the banks of the Nile.--Belzoni + returns to Gournou. + + +MRS. A.--Our travellers continued their journey, for hope gave them +patience, and ascended something like an ancient road, or rather path. +On the summit of the mountain above they observed a large wall, so +situated that it appeared to look over the path and both sides of the +mountain. + +When they reached the top of the road their camels were quite +exhausted: some of them had fallen on the way, and were unloaded to +enable them to ascend; and the strongest camels had to return to fetch +the loads of the others. A steep craggy road over a mountain is no more +adapted to a camel than the deep sand of the Desert to a horse. + +When they reached the summit, they began to look for the desired +Berenice; but, alas! in vain. Their hopes had been so raised by +Monsieur Calliaud, that Belzoni’s active imagination had already +pictured the remains of some majestic dome, or lofty column, or noble +edifice, by which he expected to distinguish the town, and which was +to serve as a guide to the spot, whither he intended to hasten the +moment he beheld it. His companion was not less anxious than himself, +and his ideas were equally excited. They had made arrangements how to +proceed when they arrived there. As their provision was scanty, they +could stop but a few days, and had already distributed their time +accordingly. He was to take drawings of all the beautiful buildings, +monuments, figures, paintings, sculptures, statues, and columns. +Belzoni was to survey all the vast ruins as fast as he could; to +observe where any thing was to be found or discovered: to take measures +of all the monuments and place of every stone in that great city. + +Such pleasing ideas had the fertile fancy of our antiquaries excited. +Now to the fact. + +From the summit upon which they were, they expected to have a view +not only of the sea, but of a wide plain also; as it was natural to +suppose, that a town like Pompeii could not have been entirely built +among those wild mountains. Not perceiving any, they expected to be +agreeably surprised, on turning some of the rocks, by beholding one. +The old man told them that, previous to reaching the town, they would +see some grottoes in the mountains, which their vivid imaginations +made them conclude were the tombs of the inhabitants of Berenice. They +advanced insensibly, continually keeping their eyes fixed on the points +of some rocks which stood before them, with the hope that, on turning +the next angle, the glorious sight would present itself; and, indeed, +the scattered and ruined walls of some ancient enclosures announced to +them that they would soon see some habitation. + +They observed a square hole in the rock, which had evidently been cut +by some of the miners in form of a chapel. + +Belzoni now began to congratulate himself that they had nearly +arrived, and, whilst employed with these thoughts, the old man who +was at the head, serving as a guide, made a sign to halt. The drivers +gave a signal to the camels, and the camels, who were already weak +and exhausted by passing over the mountains, did not wait for its +repetition, but with all the luggage, were crouched in a moment on the +ground, before Belzoni was able to account for it. He told the drivers +that he did not intend to stop there, but wished to advance farther +into the town, where the houses might be seen; when, to his no small +astonishment, he was told by the old man that this was the very spot +where the Christian had been before. + +EMILY.--What an odd, mysterious old man he was, mother! I do not admire +him at all. By the other Christian, he meant Monsieur Calliaud, I +suppose. But it is quite impossible that _he_ could have called this +place Berenice: and where were the eight hundred houses? + +MRS. A.--Belzoni himself could hardly suppose that the account he had +received would be so exaggerated, as to lead him to suppose he should +find another Pompeii instead of the place at which he had just arrived; +and he reproached the old man for stopping there, and not advancing +to the town, which, according to his own account, could not be far +off. He again protested that this was the spot, and that there was no +other with houses in any part of the deserts or mountains. Belzoni was +incredulous; and resolving not to submit to what he believed to be the +imposition of the old man, as it now wanted four hours to sunset, he +mounted his camel again. + +His friend, Mr. Beechey went with him, consequently all the caravan +followed at a distance. They entered a long valley, and, filled with +the hope of seeing the ancient city, our travellers proceeded for four +hours without perceiving a single habitation. + +You may fancy, how desolate it was, and how much disappointed they must +have felt. The sun was just setting, you know, therefore it was getting +dark; and no house was near. + +At length they reached a valley called Wady el Gomal, which was almost +covered with a beautiful tree called the egley; and having lost all +hopes of finding Berenice that evening, they halted to rest on a clean +bed of sand, which I believe was as comfortable as the sugar-cane bed, +Bernard, though Belzoni would certainly rather have slept among the +magnificent temples of the great city. But the poor camels, instead of +reposing, were obliged to fetch water, both for themselves and their +masters, from a well not less than fifteen miles distant. + +OWEN.--I cannot imagine, mother, what could induce the old man not to +show them the place described by Monsieur Calliaud. Perhaps the miners +at Zubara had told him to keep it secret, for fear Belzoni should +discover any emerald mines in or near Berenice. + +MRS. A.--Indeed, they did not know what to think. Their provisions +began to make them cautious: they had biscuit for twenty days, but +their sheep was lost, you remember. Still they were easily satisfied, +so that they did but reach the desired emporium of the commerce +formerly carried on by the nations of Europe, with India. + +Early on the following morning they perceived a high hill four or five +miles from the valley, and as they had to wait for the return of the +camels, they thought they might ascend the mountain to have a view +of the country, or of the remains of the celebrated Berenice. They +set off, and observed on their way several flocks of wild antelopes +skipping about on the craggy rocks on each side of the beautiful +valley, which, being ornamented with suvaroe and debbo trees in +addition to the egley, formed a delightful contrast to the wide sandy +desert. No one had probably been in this spot for many centuries, and +very likely no one will pass through it for many more to come. When +they reached the summit of the mountain they took a view around: they +had a small telescope with them, and the peak on which they stood +commanded a prospect many miles in extent. + +Alas! the much-sought-for town had vanished, or rather never appeared. +No remnants of it were to be discerned, and Belzoni might have +exclaimed in the words of Shakspeare: + + The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces, + The solemn temples, the great globe itself, + Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve, + And, like the baseless fabric of a vision, + Leave not a wreck behind.-- + +Indeed there was ocular demonstration in the truth of this assertion, +with respect to its towers, temples and palaces; for the once brilliant +and flourishing city had disappeared, and they now began to be +persuaded that Monsieur Calliaud had seen the town, with its eight +hundred houses, and so much like Pompeii, in his own imagination only. + +Belzoni observed some high mountains on the south-east, which the old +man, who had followed them all the way, said were near the sea. They +determined to pursue that course, and to try whether they could reach +the spot described by a former traveller as being the situation of +the Berenice Trogloditica. Hope seemed always to cheer our traveller; +nothing compelled him to relinquish his projects. + +They descended the mountain, and returned to the beautiful valley in +which they had passed the preceding night. + +They waited there, for the return of the camels with a fresh supply +of water, which they were much in want of, for there only remained a +single zemzabie or leather bag, containing about three quarts. Their +thirst was great, and they felt in some degree, the calamity of living +without water. Hunger is painful to endure, but thirst is far more +intolerable. At last, however, to their great joy, the camels appeared +in sight. The poor drivers were exceedingly fatigued, and almost unable +to proceed. The caravan travelled on for some hours, and arrived in +another valley, the rocks of which were nearly perpendicular. After +this the hills became small, and the sandy banks rising one behind +another made them expect to see the sea very shortly. They went on till +a late hour, and at length halted at a spot where they thought the sand +might again prove a comfortable bed. Fortunately for Belzoni it was +so: for his camel was so weary, that no sooner did he reach it than he +threw him off his back, and leaving him there, saddle and all, set off +without delay to feed among the thorns. + +Early the next day they resumed their journey; but the hills of sand, +instead of diminishing, increased in size, which made them fearful that +they were yet far from the sea. However, about noon the valley opened +all at once, and at the distance of five miles they saw the Arabian +Gulf. + +You may judge how much joy the sight of the open horizon must have +given them, after having been so long shut up in that narrow valley. + +They perceived, on arriving at the shore, that it was composed as far +as they could see of a mass of petrifications of various kinds. + +The Red Sea is particularly noted for its seaweeds, corals, shells, +and similar productions, and the bottom of it is literally a forest +of submarine plants. And these are formed into a solid mass like a +rock, which extends from the bank of sand that forms the boundary of +the tide, and runs into the sea for a great length. They resolved to +take the road along the coast until they should reach the spot which +was pointed out as Berenice, according to the account of the traveller +whom I named before. It is not marked on our modern maps. But I believe +it is just by that point of land projecting into the sea, called Cape +Lepte, a little beyond the 24th degree of latitude. + +They acquainted the drivers with their intention, who, poor creatures, +were too much fatigued willingly to acquiesce in it. They indeed went +so far as absolutely to refuse proceeding, but at last found it in vain +to resist. It was concluded that two of the camels should go first to +the nearest well for water, and that the caravan should wait their +return. During this interval, Belzoni and his friends made a little +excursion along the coast; the plain which extended from the mountains +to the sea was covered in many places with woods of sycamore trees, +and at the foot of these mountains they saw several mines of sulphur, +which they wished Mahomed Ali could have viewed also. They made a good +repast out of some shell-fish, which abound along the coast, and they +were probably as great a feast to our wearied and hungry friends, +Emily, as the train oil was to your little Greenlanders. + +On their return to the caravan they found that the guide had met with +an acquaintance of his who lived by catching fish, not far from where +they were. His only habitation consisted of a tent four feet high and +five feet wide; and his wife, her son and daughter, formed the family. + +Money presented an attraction to the old fisherman, and persuaded him +to try what he could do towards procuring them some fish, as they were +so hungry. Their mode of fishing is somewhat strange; and the boat they +use for the purpose is one in which I own I should not much like to +see my little Bernard. They throw in the water, part of the trunk of a +tree, at one end of which a small pole is stuck upright, to serve as a +mast, and on the top of it a piece of wood is horizontally fastened. A +woollen shawl being thrown over it, forms a kind of sail; two fishermen +place themselves astride on the large trunk, and by means of a cord +fastened to the middle of the sail, they take the wind more or less as +is required. + +[Illustration] + +When the fishermen were thus equipped, and at some distance from the +shore, Belzoni could scarcely tell how they seized their prey, but he +fancied that they darted their long spears at the fish, and procured +them by this means. The old man brought one to Belzoni: he could not +tell its name, but he had seen a very good representation of it among +the hieroglyphics in the tomb of Psammuthis. + +The camels returned in the course of a day or two, with a load of fresh +water, and the caravan now divided into two parties. The Greek servant +and some of the camels were sent to a spring in the adjacent mountains, +there to wait the return of the rest, who set off in the forenoon +along the coast. On their road they passed the abodes of several other +fishermen: but when they saw our travellers at a distance, they left +their tents and marched off towards the mountains. All the signs that +were made to stop them were of no avail. They were like the people of +Mainarty, who left their huts in a similar manner, and hid themselves +in that great hole under the ruins of an old castle, and would not come +out when Belzoni went to visit them. + +When our friends arrived at the tents, they found some excellent fish +just roasted, which the inhabitants had no doubt intended for their own +supper. They however partook of their meal, and having left some money +in payment on the top of a water jar, continued their journey. Towards +evening they left the shore, and began to feel the short allowance +of water, as they knew that, without great care, it would soon be +entirely gone. A few hours after, they crossed a very extensive +plain, and arrived again at the sea. Not expecting to discover the +remains of Berenice that night, it was an agreeable surprise to find +themselves all at once on one of those heaps of ruins which point out +the situation of ancient towns so often seen in Egypt. They entered, +and at once beheld the regular situations of the houses, the principal +streets, and in the centre a small Egyptian temple, nearly covered with +sand, as well as the insides of the houses; their wonder increased on +examining the materials with which the houses were built: they could +see nothing but coral, roots, madrepores, and several petrifications of +various seaweeds. + +EMILY.--These were singular buildings, however, mother! We have heard +of the little huts in Peru, which are made of bamboo canes; and of +the wigwams of North America, formed of stakes, and leaves, and turf; +and of the dwellings of the little Laplanders, composed of bark and +reindeer skins; and we have seen the cottages of poor people in England +built of mud; but we have never heard of coral and seaweed houses +before! + +MRS. A.--The situation of this town was delightful. Our travellers +concluded it to be the Berenice laid down by D’Anville, as it nearly +agreed with the situation marked on his map. They determined to examine +it most minutely. They measured the town, and took the plan of the +temple, which was built of soft calcareous earth, in the Egyptian +style. Their grand difficulty was about the water; it was become so +scarce that they had reason to dread remaining there the whole of the +next day. The nearest well was a day’s journey distant. Notwithstanding +their excessive thirst, they were determined to endure it, rather than +give up their project; and being moonlight, they devoted the hour of +rest to an examination of the place. + +Though they had only taken some biscuit and water for a long time, +except the fish which they found in the tents of the fishermen, they +contented themselves very well with respect to food; but their thirst +was continually increasing; and their zemzabie, which some days before +contained only three quarts, was nearly empty. However, that they might +be perfectly sure of having actually reached Berenice, they persuaded +the Scheik to go farther with them, just to take a survey of the +country, and to leave the rest of the people where they were in the +mean time. Before they departed, little Mussa one of the boys who had +joined the caravan at Gournou, to attend to the camels, was set to dig +in the temple; he had no spade, poor fellow! but as it was only soft +sand, a shell or caquille supplied the place of one. + +Proceeding onwards, they saw nothing but an extensive plain to the foot +of the mountain that formed the cape on the south; they had telescopes, +but could see no sort of elevation, or any thing else that could lead +them to imagine there were any remains of habitations. They therefore +returned to the town, and found that the boy had excavated about four +feet of sand, near one corner of the temple, and to their surprise +discovered that it was Egyptian. They had imagined that it was erected +by the Greeks. The walls were adorned with sculpture and hieroglyphics, +and they carried a small marble slab away as a memento. The little +Mussa had worked very well, considered he had only a shell in the place +of a spade. + +The plain that surrounds this town is very extensive, and partly +covered with small plants of sunt and suvaroes; which last is a small +tree, with leaves resembling those of the laurel; it grows close to the +salt water, and generally out of the rocks. Belzoni carefully examined +the town, and counted the houses (of which there were two thousand,) +that he might not take a wrong report, and be mistaken for another +Calliaud. This place being on the coast, was once a port of commerce +with India. Having spent as much time there as they prudently could, +they recommenced their journey towards the north-west, firmly intending +at some future time to inspect the whole of the ruins. + +OWEN.--To the north-west: then they are returning to Esne, I suppose? +I hope they will fall in with some well, for they must be extremely +thirsty by this time. + +MRS. A.--They left the spot on the evening of the same day, and after +travelling some hours by moonlight, fortunately arrived at the well of +Aharatret, a mountainous place, where the water was good to drink. + +Their biscuits were nearly gone by this time, they were, therefore, +agreeably surprised to find a few sheep around the well, as they hoped +to be able to purchase one. They approached, intending to do so, when +the guardian of the flock beat a forced march into the mountain, and +drove the intended repast away from them. But they were not inclined +to be deprived of what they could purchase; and they sent some of the +drivers to follow the flock, which they willingly did, being as hungry +as themselves. The fugitives were pursued and stopped. They reached the +flock, and found that its guardians were two shepherd girls. The tawny +coloured nymphs were surprised at the fountain by their pursuers, and +took refuge on the mountains; but, unlike the fishermen on the coast +of the Red Sea, or the people of Mainarty, they were easily persuaded +to return, and allowed the hungry group to take one of their lambs. +The caravan arrived at Sakiet Minor again in a few days, and thence +proceeded to the valley of Wady el Gomal; after which it crossed a very +wide sandy plain, and reached the entrance of the chain of mountains +that leads to the Nile. Their camels were by this time so much +exhausted as to be scarcely able to go on; they had already lost three +on the road. It is difficult for those who have never seen a desert +to form a correct idea of one; it appears like an endless plain of +sand and stones, without roads or shelter, without any sort of produce +for food. The scattered trees and shrubs of thorns, that only appear +when the rainy season leaves some moisture, barely serve to feed wild +animals and a few birds. Every thing is left to nature. The springs +of water are generally at the distance of four, six, or eight days’ +journey. One of these may perhaps happen to be dry, and then if the +same dreadful calamity happen at the next well, which is so anxiously +sought for by the wearied travellers, the misery of their situation +cannot well be described. + +They have the camels with them, it is true, and although their only +dependence is placed on these useful creatures, yet they themselves are +sometimes so thirsty as to be unable to proceed. Their condition must +be distressing, for it admits of no resource. Many perish, the victims +of insatiable thirst. It is in such a state that the value of a cup of +cold water is really felt. + +In these cases there is no distinction of persons; if the master has +none, the servant will not give it him; for very few are the instances +in which a man will voluntarily lose his life to save that of another, +particularly in a caravan in a desert, where the people are strangers +to each other. What a situation for a man to be placed in! riches will +avail nothing; he may perhaps be the owner of the caravan, and yet +die on the desert for want of a cup of cold water! no one gives it to +him; he offers all he possesses; no one hears him; they are all dying, +though by walking a few miles farther they might be saved; the camels +are lying down and will not attempt to rise; no one has strength to +walk; only he who has so much as a glass of that liquid, which he +would not part with for all the emeralds of Zubara, has any chance of +living: and if he is enabled to crawl a mile farther, perhaps he dies +too. + +It is indeed a dreadful situation to be placed in, exposed to the +burning sun, without water and without shelter, in the midst of a +burning desert. I believe the sufferings of those who have experienced +what it is, are the greatest a human being can sustain. The eyes +grow inflamed; the tongue and lips swell; a hollow sound is heard in +the ears; a faintness or languor takes away the power to move; some +wandering tears escape from the eyes; the poor sufferer drops on the +earth and becomes insensible; all these feelings arise from the want of +a little water. + +And now we will return to Belzoni. We left him just entering the chain +of mountains that leads to the Nile. + +The caravan proceeded very much as before until it arrived on the banks +of that river, and the freshness of its water made them sensible of its +superiority over that of almost any other. + +They went onboard their little boat the same night, and set off for +Esne. + +You know when they went up the Nile, almost all the land around was +under water, and the poor people were standing about on the little +islands, holding out their hands and imploring assistance. Now, +although the water had only retired fifteen days, yet all the lands +that were before overflowed were not only dried up but actually +planted; the muddy villages carried off by the current were all +rebuilt; the fences opened; the Fellahs at work in the fields; the +aspect was quite changed, and all presented a scene of industry and +happiness. + +They arrived at Esne in a day or two, and visited the Bey, who received +them very politely, inquired about the mines, and was anxious to learn +the result of their journey. They then set off again, and reached our +well known Gournou after an absence of forty days. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Dr. Franklin’s kite.--Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar + by means of a paper kite.--Removal of the obelisk from the + Island of Philoe.--It falls into the Nile.--Ingenious method + of raising it.--It is launched down the cataract.--Arrives in + safety in Rosetta.--Belzoni goes to Beban el Malook.--Completes + his drawings and models of the Tomb.--Bids final adieu to + Thebes.--Traverses the Western Desert in search of the Temple + of Jupiter Ammon.--Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.--Reaches the + Lake Mœris.--Rose-trees in profusion. + + +“Mother!” exclaimed Bernard, running into the breakfast room where his +mother was seated, and throwing his straw hat on the sofa, “Do you know +what I have been thinking about?” + +“Indeed, my dear,” said Mrs. A. “your employments are so various, and +your thoughts are generally dependent upon them, I suppose, that I +feel at a loss to imagine.” + +“I have been thinking,” said he, “that when I am older I shall get Owen +or father to teach me how to swim, and that I shall fly my kite whilst +I am in the water, as Dr. Franklin did when he was a boy. How do you +approve of my plan?” + +MRS. A.--I own that I think some little danger would be attached to +it, just at present however. Dr. Franklin was a native of Boston, +and was taught the practice of swimming when very young, so that he +was particularly expert and skilful in this as in almost every other +respect. But what led you to think of him now? + +BERNARD.--Owen and I are just come from the park, where we have been +flying our new kite; and Owen has been telling me how much pleased +Dr. Franklin was with his new method of swimming. Do you remember it, +mother? He one day wished to amuse himself with his kite and to enjoy +at the same time the pleasure of swimming, so he got into the water, +and lying on his back, held the end of the string in his hands and went +along in such a delightful manner. I wish I had been Dr. Franklin! He +engaged a boy to carry his clothes round the pond, to a place which +he pointed out to him on the other side, whilst he in the mean time +crossed the pond with his kite flying high in the air. Was it not a +clever idea? + +MRS. A.--He managed to do two things at once, certainly. But I do +not admire Dr. Franklin for his new mode of swimming only. He was +clever whilst a boy, and when grown up became a very useful character, +and rendered great services both to his own country and the world at +large: however, I would advise you not to attempt to imitate him in the +exploit that has pleased you so much, until you have acquired a little +of his experience. + +I can, if you please, tell you of another achievement performed by +means of a kite. + +You have perhaps heard of Pompey’s pillar. It is not far from +Alexandria, the place at which Belzoni landed when he went to Egypt, +and it is supposed that this column was erected to the memory of the +great Roman warrior. Pompey was killed as he was going to that country, +you know, soon after he had stepped into the little bark. + +The column called Pompey’s Pillar is one hundred and ten feet high. It +has suffered little or no injury from time. It is of the Corinthian +order, which is at once simple and beautiful. Pompey was killed B.C. +48. The time of the erection of the pillar is scarcely known, but it +was named after him in the fifteenth century, when learning began to +revive from a torpid state in which it had long languished, and men of +science bestowed names on all the monuments. + +The pedestal has been somewhat damaged by the instruments of +travellers, who are anxious to possess a relic of this antiquity; and +one of the volutes of the column was immaturely brought down a few +years ago by the ingenuity of some English captains. So I have heard; +however, I cannot vouch for the truth of my story farther than the +authority of Mr. Irwin, the traveller who relates it. + +A strange fancy entered the thoughts of one of those seamen as they +were coasting about in the harbour of Alexandria, and the eccentricity +of the idea caused it to be immediately adopted, for its apparent +impossibility only made them the more anxious to put it into execution. + +They ordered out the boat and with proper implements pushed ashore, +intending to drink a bowl of punch on the top of Pompey’s Pillar. They +arrived at the spot, and many contrivances were proposed to accomplish +the desired project. + +But their labour was vain; and they began to despair of success, when +the genius who struck out the frolic happily suggested the means of +performing it. + +A man was despatched to the city for a paper kite. The inhabitants +were by this time apprised of what was going forward, and flocked in +crowds to be witnesses of the address and boldness of the English. The +governor of Alexandria was told that some sailors were about to pull +down Pompey’s pillar; however, he politely left them to themselves, +saying that the English were too great patriots to injure the remains +of Pompey. The kite was brought, and the wind being in the right +direction, it flew so directly over the pillar that when it fell on the +other side the string lodged upon the capital. + +[Illustration] + +The chief obstacle was now overcome. A thick rope was tied to one end +of the string, and drawn over the column by the end to which the kite +was fixed. By this rope one of the sailors ascended to the top (sailors +are used to run up the shrouds, you know, and this was somewhat +similar;) in less than an hour a kind of rope ladder was constructed, +by which the whole company went up, amidst the shouts and claps of the +astonished multitude. + +To the eye below, the capital of the pillar does not appear capable +of holding more than one man upon it; but our seamen found it could +contain no less than eight persons very conveniently. + +No accident happened during their ascent to this giddy height for they +were sailors, and used to look down from the tall masts. + +The only injury sustained by the pillar, was the loss of the volute +I mentioned before, which descended with a thundering sound, and was +brought to England by one of the captains. They reported that one +foot and an ankle of a statue were still remaining upon the monument, +probably of Pompey himself. + +I cannot say that I am sure such a thing did really and actually +happen. I can only depend on what I have heard from others. But the +adventurers themselves have left a memento of the fact, by the initials +of their names painted in large black letters just beneath the capital. + +BERNARD.--Well, it is a very amusing anecdote, mother! Kites are very +ingenious--as ingenious as the _somebody_ who thought of the plan. +Without kites, they could never have got to the top of Pompey’s pillar. +You know, mother, that Belzoni was at Alexandria. Did he see the pillar? + +MRS. A.--I cannot tell, my dear; I do not recollect that he mentions +it: but he was at Alexandria more than once, for he took the obelisk +thither which he discovered in the island of Philoe. + +EMILY.--Do, dear mother, tell us something about that obelisk: I was +quite interested to know what became of it. Belzoni left it in the +island of Philoe, on his return from Ybsambul, and gave the Aga four +dollars to pay a guard for it, till he could procure a boat to convey +it down the Nile. + +OWEN.--The obelisk was lying among several blocks of stones; it was +made of granite, and was twenty-two feet long. Go on, if you please, +mother. + +MRS. A.--I dare say you recollect that we left Belzoni at Gournou. He +did not remain there very long, but went up the Nile to Assouan. + +The old town of Assouan stands on a hill which overhangs the river, and +is on the opposite side of the Nile to the first Cataract, and Philoe +is in the Nile between them. + +Belzoni went to this island, to take a view of the bank where he had to +embark the obelisk. In a few days he set the men to work, and procured +a boat to put it in. The greatest difficulty seemed to be to persuade +the captain to have the boat launched down the Cataract, which it +necessarily must be, with the obelisk on board. However, the promise +of a handsome present procured an assurance that he would accomplish +the undertaking. He had some little trouble to procure a few sticks or +small poles from Assouan, as there is no wood in these places, except +what they procure from Cairo. He had also some difficulty in removing +the obelisk from its situation; but once put on its way, it soon came +to the water side. + +Belzoni gave orders for a sort of temporary pier to be made of large +blocks of stone. When finished, no doubt arose of its being strong +enough for the weight it had to support. But, alas! when the obelisk +came gradually on from the sloping bank, and the heavy mass rested +on it, the pier, with the obelisk and some of the men, took a slow +movement, and, to Belzoni’s dismay, descended majestically into the +river. + +[Illustration] + +EMILY.--Now it is there, it is done for! But how much mortified poor +Belzoni must have been! Why did he not make himself sure that the pier +was quite secure? + +MRS. A.--He had no reason to doubt but what it was. It is true he was +not present during its erection, because he was gone to examine a +passage in the Cataract, down which the boat would have to be launched; +and now it was too late. When he fixed his eyes upon the spot where the +pier set off into the Nile, he observed that the stones which were to +serve as a foundation on a sloping back, had been only laid on the +surface of it, so that it was almost impossible for the obelisk to do +otherwise than press it down into the river. + +OWEN.--Well, it was a very unfortunate thing; and all these reflections +are now of no use! The obelisk from Philoe is there, and there it must +stay! + +MRS. A.--Belzoni was not quite so full of despair as you are, Owen. He +was certainly extremely mortified at this unfortunate occurrence, and, +being only three yards off when it happened, he stood for some minutes +in confusion and astonishment. At length, the loss of such a piece +of antiquity, and the blame that would be attached to him by other +antiquaries, occurred to his recollection, and he resolved to try what +could be done. He generally succeeded in whatever he undertook; and +often proved the truth of our motto, “_Labour conquers all!_” + +The obelisk was still peeping a little above the water. The labourers +were of various humours: some were sorry, not for the obelisk, which +was no loss to them, but for the loss of what they might have gained +in future operations, by passing it down the Cataract: others were +laughing, probably at the evident disappointment expressed in the +countenance of our friend. Some went one way, and some another; and he +remained alone, absorbed in thought, contemplating the little part that +projected out of the water, and meditating upon the possibility of once +more placing it upon the dry land. + +He reflected, indeed, that he was as badly off as he had been with +Young Memnon, in being destitute of any instruments; and that the +palm-leaf ropes which he had with him were broken, and old, and of +little use. However, he soon made up his mind to have the obelisk taken +up at all events; and accordingly ordered the men to come the next +morning, and sent to Assouan to procure some new ropes for the purpose. + +The labourers were excellent watermen, and could bear the water the +whole day without difficulty; so Belzoni had the advantage in this +respect. The following morning the work commenced. Several men entered +the river, and made a great heap of stones on the side of the obelisk +opposite to the shore, so as to form a bed for the levers to rest upon. + +He then placed the levers under the obelisk, so that by their pressure +it was forced to turn round upon its axis, or, to be more particular, +one end of the long poles, called the levers, passed under the obelisk, +and a short distance from that end, they rested upon the rock of stones +which thus formed a fulcrum for the levers to turn upon; the men seated +themselves on the other extremity, and their weight caused the obelisk +to turn gently round and round, until it reached the dry ground. + +Two ropes were also passed under it, and the men on shore pulled the +two ends of these ropes with all their might. At the side where the +levers were, some good divers were stationed, who were ready to put +large stones under the obelisk as it rose, that it might not return to +its former situation. + +You can fancy how busy they all looked. The men at the ropes were +pulling with all their strength; those on the rocks were rising and +sitting, to make the levers act; and the divers were placing stone +after stone, whilst the obelisk was gradually rising and moving round +at each turn by its own weight. So they go on, until, to Belzoni’s +great joy, he beholds it once more on _terra firma_. Where it was in +the course of two days; but another difficulty awaits it before it +reaches Alexandria, and that is descending the Cataract. + +It was yet to be embarked, and this time the operation was performed +by means of a bridge of palm-trees, thrown from across the boat to +the land under the obelisk, which was then turned on the bridge, and +placed on board; when in the centre of the boat the trees were moved +from under it; and no sooner was this done than the party set off with +the obelisk, to have it ready to be launched down the Cataract the next +morning. + +It had to descend the greatest fall of water in the Cataract. When the +inundation is half high in the Nile, it is a column of water about +three hundred yards in length, which falls among rocks and stones +projecting in various directions. The boat was brought to the margin of +the cascade; a strong rope, or rather a small cable, was fastened to a +large tree, the end of which was passed through the beams of the boat, +so as to be slackened or stopped at pleasure. In the boat there were +only five men; and on the rocks on each side of the cascade a number +of others in various places, with ropes attached to the boat, so as +to put it either to one side or other, as it required, to prevent its +running against the stones; for you know if it had been touched ever so +slightly, with such a weight on board, and in such a rapid stream, the +boat would probably have been dashed to pieces. + +[Illustration] + +The rope Belzoni had got from Assouan was only sufficient to check its +course, and when the boat was moving so rapidly, any attempt to _stop_ +its progress would have made the water run in and sink it in a moment. +Under these circumstances, all depended upon the dexterity of the +men who were posted in various parts to pull or slacken as necessity +required. Belzoni did not fail to use all the persuasion possible, and +the wild people, as he calls them, were upon this occasion as careful +as so many pilots. + +The Reis, or owner of the boat, was in great distress, thinking it +would certainly be lost. He had engaged his vessel merely because it +happened that his trade failed; but when he saw the danger it was in, +he cried like a child, and begged Belzoni would relinquish his project +and return his boat to him in safety. + +Tears were certainly useless and not very manly, but we must remember +that his livelihood, poor fellow, depended on his boat. When he saw +it on the point of being launched, he threw himself with his face to +the ground, and did not rise till it was out of danger. When all was +ready, Belzoni gave the signal to slacken the cable. + +The boat moved forwards with great rapidity. The men on land slackened +the rope, and it continued its course till it reached the end of the +Cataract. + +The poor Reis was delighted; he did not lie on the ground any longer, +but went full of joy to congratulate himself and Belzoni. The workmen +altogether seemed pleased at the good success of the attempt, even +independently of the interest they might derive from it. This was +gratifying to our antiquary, for it is not very often that such +feelings enter the bosoms of the Arabs. + +Having only two or three places of little danger to pass, they arrived +safely at Assouan on the same day. Belzoni immediately prepared to +depart from thence to Thebes; he quitted the boat, travelled by land, +and took up his old residence at the tombs in Beban el Malook. + +The obelisk proceeded to Luxor, and from thence to Rosetta, where it +remained some time. + +Belzoni had written to Mrs. Belzoni, to tell her that he could not go +into Syria, and she had in consequence returned from Jerusalem, and now +waited to welcome his arrival in the valley. + +I once told you, as you perhaps recollect, that the entrance into the +newly-discovered tomb was situated under a small torrent of water, +which, when it rains, runs into it. This is not often the case in +Egypt, but it so happened that whilst Belzoni was absent up the Nile +it did rain, and consequently the water ran into the tomb, carrying +with it a great deal of mud, and damaging some of the figures. However, +this disaster could not be remedied. Belzoni completed his models and +drawings, and with some difficulty removed the great sarcophagus and +put it into a strong case. The place it had to pass to reach the Nile +was rather uneven for more than two miles, but it was conveyed on +rollers, and put safely on board. Under this sarcophagus there was a +staircase communicating with a subterraneous passage leading downwards, +three hundred feet in length; at the end of which a quantity of rubbish +had fallen in and choked up the passage. Belzoni conjectured that this +formed another entrance to the tomb, though it must have been closed +after the sarcophagus was placed there, as there was a wall built just +under the sarcophagus, and large blocks of stone were placed on a level +with the floor which completely cut off all communication between the +chamber and the subterraneous passage. + +Our traveller was now about to bid a final adieu to Thebes. Before he +embarked he retraced the scenes which had yielded him so much delight; +he paid a melancholy visit to the magnificent remains of ancient +grandeur; gazed for the last time upon the temples and columns which +have triumphed over the corroding influence of the universal ravager; +and beheld the valley, the place in which his labours had been crowned +with so much success, with painful feelings and mingled emotions +of pleasure and regret. He left the spot so long known, and so long +endeared to him, in January 1819, and arrived in Cairo the following +month. At this place they stopped only a few days, and continued +their voyage to Rosetta, where, taking the obelisk with them, they +re-embarked on board a djerm, and arrived in the course of a short time +at Alexandria, whence they intended to take passage for Europe. + +They did not quit Alexandria immediately, and if you please we may yet +accompany our friend in another journey that he took to visit a temple +in the western Desert: we have not yet been on that side of the Nile. + +The temple of Jupiter Ammon had been an object of search for a long +time, and by more than one traveller, but the true spot where it +existed had not yet been fixed upon, and to discover this, as well as +to visit some pyramids, and search for the famous Labyrinth, presented +grand attractions to Belzoni. + +Jupiter Ammon was one of the gods in the Egyptian Mythology. He was +worshipped under the figure of a ram, and this temple was dedicated to +him. + +Having left Mrs. Belzoni in Rosetta, our traveller took a small boat +and proceeded to Benisoeuf, where he arrived in nine days. You will +find this place on the map a long way south of Cairo. + +Belzoni was accompanied by a servant and a Moorish Hajji, which is a +title given to those Mohamedans who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca. +This one was just returned from Mecca and begged to be allowed to join +him. At Benisoeuf they procured donkeys to take them as far as the Lake +Mœris. They set off on the same day, and directed their course through +a large plain of cultivated land, of corn and other products of the +country. This plain was all under water at the time of the inundation, +excepting the scattered villages which appeared like little islands as +I have before described. A few miles from the Nile the mountains on the +west are but low. They open and form a valley into a province called +the Paioum; and it was at this entrance our party arrived on the first +night of their journey. + +They took their station under some date trees near a canal that passes +through the valley about two miles from the first pyramid. Here, after +a little repast Belzoni went to sleep on his usual bed, a mattress thin +enough to serve as a saddle when folded up, but forming, when laid on +the soft ground, as comfortable a bed as he could desire. The servant, +the Hajji, and the donkey drivers kept watch in their turn, and this +plan was pursued during the whole of the journey. + +The next morning Belzoni again set off, and soon arrived at the +pyramid. He found it was composed of burnt bricks, and about sixty +feet in height, affording a fine prospect from the top. Our party then +continued along the hills till they were opposite another pyramid of +about the same size, surrounded by smaller tombs, and the remains of +a magnificent Egyptian temple. The whole country was very fertile, and +interspersed with plantations of fruit trees and roses. + +This place is celebrated for the making of rose-water, which is sold +in Cairo, and all over the country, for the use of the great people, +who continually keep their apartments sprinkled with it, and present it +also to any stranger who visits them. + +You remember that when we were talking of the customs of the Egyptians, +I told you that a slave generally carries a silver plate in which +essences are burning to perfume the beard and sprinkle the visiters +with them. For this purpose they use rose-water procured from the roses +that grow in the valley around the Faioum. + +Next morning a soldier joined the party as guide, and they advanced +towards the lake Mœris, but arrived only at Senures that night, a +village ten miles from it. + +EMILY.--How very convenient maps are, mother; I can trace their route +so well. Here is Benisoeuf on the Nile, where they hired the donkeys; +and here is the chain of mountains, and a space left for the entrance +between them into the Faioum: they have only just to cross this +province to reach Birket Keroum, as the lake is called on the map; the +pyramids themselves are marked, and I believe I know the very spot +where the rose-trees grow, and the roses blow, but not to + + “_Waste_ their sweetness on the desert air.” + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the + rocks near the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the + famous Labyrinth.--Visit to the Elloah.--An interview with + Khalil Bey.--Account of the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the + Desert attended by Scheik Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a + sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at Zaboo.--Interview with + the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni goes to their + village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets with + an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches + Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to + England. + + +Leaving Senures the following morning, our travellers proceeded on +their journey, and after passing through several groves of palm-trees, +the view opened all at once on a wild country gradually sloping to +the edge of the lake. The water extended some way on each side, and +the mountains opposite had an awful and sterile appearance. At noon +they reached the lake, but could observe no trace of any living being. +The guide conducted them along the shore, till they arrived at a +fisherman’s hut situated near the place where the canal discharges +itself into the lake. The hut was inhabited by a few poor fishermen and +a soldier, who formerly received the duties on the fish they caught; +but now, the fishermen have only a share of the fish they catch, and +the remainder is sold at Medinet, of which the Pasha receives the +profit. The guide sent one of the fishermen for a boat, the only one to +be had, but the shabbiest thing imaginable. It was composed of rough +pieces of wood scarcely joined, and fastened by four other pieces, +wrapped together by four more across, which formed the deck; no tar, +no pitch, either inside or out, and the only preventive against the +water coming in was a kind of weed moistened, which had settled in the +joints of the wood. However, there was no alternative; Belzoni wished +to cross the lake, and he was obliged to submit to what he could not +help. Having made an agreement with the owner of the boat, who might +have passed for old _Charon_ the ferryman of the Styx in ancient +mythology, they put on board some provisions, and advanced towards the +west, where the famous Labyrinth is supposed to have been situated. The +water of the lake was good enough to drink, though a little saltish; +but it was only this year that it could be drunk at all, owing to the +extraordinary overflow of the Nile, which surmounted all the high +lands, and came in such torrents into the lake that it raised the water +twelve feet higher than it ever had been in the memory of the oldest +fisherman. As evening came on, the plantations and groves disappeared, +the lake and the mountains alone remained in sight, and when they +reached the shore, the owner of the boat, who accompanied them as +pilot, lighted a fire, whilst the others went out to fish with a net, +and soon returned with a supper of fish. + +The land where they now were had formerly been cultivated, as there +appeared many stumps of palm and other trees, and around them wild +vines twined their luxuriant tendrils in profusion. The scene here +was beautiful; the silence of the night; the beams of the radiant +moon shining on the calm surface of the crystal lake; the group of +fishermen; the little fire; altogether formed a picture which Belzoni +had never before in reality witnessed, though I know not how often his +lively imagination had painted such a scene. + +[Illustration] + +However, morning came: they entered their shattered vessel, which +nevertheless conveyed them safely till they arrived near the end of +the lake, where they landed, and Belzoni, taking two of the boatmen, +set off for the temple of Haron, about three miles distant, standing +in the midst of the ruins of a town, and surrounded by fragments of +columns and other temples. Part of the town was covered with sand; on +one side of it there was something like a gateway, and a little way off +a Greek chapel, elevated on a platform with cellars under it. After +having taken a proper view of the temple and the town, Belzoni went +to see this small Greek chapel, accompanied by the two boatmen; and +not apprehending any danger, left his gun and pistols in the temple; +but he now nearly suffered for his thoughtlessness; for just as he was +mounting the little steps that led to the platform of the chapel, a +large and furious hyena rushed from the apartments beneath; stopped +three or four yards from him, howled dreadfully, and then turned round +as if determined to attack him. + +The fierce animal appeared on second thoughts to relinquish its intent, +for, after having shown him its teeth, it gave a hideous roar, and +galloped away as fast as it could. + +[Illustration] + +Belzoni says that at the moment he regretted having left his gun and +pistols in the temple, but was happy to see it gone; he attributed its +flight to the noise made by the two boatmen who were near at the time. +Having surveyed the temple, and escaped other dangers, he returned with +his attendants to the boat. A high wind rose which swelled the lake +very much, drifted the sand into the air, and drove their boat on shore +at the spot they had left in the morning. They there collected plenty +of wood, made a fire, and passed the night under shelter of a mat hung +over two sticks planted in the ground. + +They reimbarked in the morning and coasted the shores of the lake the +whole day, but perceived nothing worthy of remark. There are a few +spots near the water’s edge where great quantities of weeds grow from +under the water, and large quantities of game are always found among +these plants. The pelican is very common, and wild ducks. They saw +fragments of pillars and ruins nearly under water. In the evening they +returned to the same part of the shore and made an excellent supper +of fresh fish and a piece of a pelican shot by a soldier. The flesh +of this bird is not unlike mutton in appearance, and is tender and +agreeable to the taste. but the fat is not pleasant, being rancid and +yellow. + +Belzoni had heard that the situation of the labyrinth was on the +west side of the lake Mœris, and he employed the few following days +in making diligent researches in that part in hopes of finding some +remains of it: but in vain, for not the smallest appearance of an +edifice was to be seen. + +The labyrinth was a celebrated building, apparently designed as +a pantheon of all the Egyptian gods that were worshipped in the +provinces. This astonishing edifice contained no less than three +thousand chambers, fifteen hundred of which were subterraneous, and set +apart either for the sepulchres of the kings, or for the abodes of the +sacred crocodiles. The passages were so numerous and intricate, the +doors and entrances so many, the galleries and lobbies so extensive +and almost innumerable, that it well deserved the designation of +_labyrinth_, which word implies a place formed with inextricable +windings. + +Belzoni failed in his endeavours to discover this wonderful structure; +but as it was not of great height, the lower apartments being under +ground, he concluded that it was probably buried by the earth which +is yearly brought there by the water of the Nile. He had no doubt +but it was somewhere there, from the number of stones, columns, and +other relics of antiquity that were scattered about, some on the road, +some in the houses of the Arabs, and others used in the erection +of huts: all implying that some magnificent and splendid building +had fallen to ruins. Having given up the attempt as fruitless, our +enterprising traveller prepared for his journey into the Elloah on the +west: accordingly he went to see Hussuff Bey, and to request he would +procure a Bedouin guide to conduct him through the desert; he said +that the Bedouins were all encamped in that part of the province which +was subject to Khalil Bey; our old friend who formerly lived at Esne, +and had the government of the Upper Provinces between that place and +Assouan, but who had left Esne and now resided at Benisoeuf. + +Belzoni learned that the Bedouins were encamped about ten miles +distant; he set off immediately, hoping to gain some information from +them respecting the Elloah on the west: but was disappointed, for none +of them knew any thing about it; however, they told him that one of +their Scheiks, who lived in a camp a little way off, had a daughter +married to one of the Scheiks of the Elloah. Belzoni fancied that +this said Scheik would accompany him thither. He remained all night +at the camp, and set off in the morning for the Nile again. He passed +through bowers of roses, with which, as I have said before, they make +the rose-water; the cotton plant was quite abundant, and figs were so +plentiful that the people dried them in the sun and sent them to Cairo. +It was night when they arrived on the banks of the Nile. + +Belzoni unfolded his saddle and slept on the ground again, and as +soundly as you sleep upon a pillow of down; he was become so accustomed +to inconvenient things as not to regard them. He proceeded on his +journey the next morning, and went to see Khalil Bey, who was now +commander of Benisoeuf. He was, as he had been before, very polite, and +glad to render his friend any service in his power. Belzoni informed +him that he wished to penetrate into the western desert; he directly +complied with his request, and sent for the Scheik or the chief of the +Bedouins. But the Scheik was not so punctual as Khalil, and did not +arrive for two or three days; indeed, when he did come, he protested +that he was unable to show him the road to the place he wished to +visit. The Bey insisted that he should find some one in his camp who +knew the road, which he of course promised to do, and it was agreed +that Belzoni should meet Scheik Grumar at a village at the foot of the +desert, whence he was to conduct him to the Elloah. + +The name of that village is Sedmin el Djabel, there the Bedouins were +encamped, and among them Scheik Grumar, a tall stout man, six feet +high, with a stern countenance, which bespoke a resolute mind and a +sort of authority over those whom he considered beneath him. + +The Bedouins are a tribe of Arabs who live a wandering life without any +settled habitation, but completely different from that of the Arabs of +Egypt in general. They are divided into a great number of tribes, and +distinguished by the names of their chiefs. Each tribe forms a sort +of village, and each family has a tent or portable hut of its own. +Their tents consist of four sticks set in the ground, about a yard +in height, to which is fastened one of their shawls as a cover with +another behind, so as to form a kind of shelter from the sun, wind, or +dew. They generally pitch their camps in a fertile spot, but always at +the foot of the mountains near the deserts; so that in case of surprise +they may soon be in their native country. + +The men commonly wear a dark brown baracan, which covers them from head +to foot. The women are likewise covered with a thick woollen garment, +folded around them in an elegant manner. + +A baracan is a sort of large woollen shawl which constitutes the chief +manufacture among the Arabs. The work is done by the women, who make no +use of the shuttle, but conduct every thread with their fingers, and +then with a machine they have in their hands, not unlike a wooden comb, +press down each thread as they lay it across. + +EMILY.--The people of Mainarty use no shuttle, and I dare say they +never heard of one, or they would not go without such a useful thing. + +What other employments have the Bedouins, mother? + +MRS. A.--The young boys and girls attend the flocks: the husband is +engaged in tilling the ground, and the wife grinding at the mill, +working at the loom, or dressing provisions. Their tents are not +very sumptuous within; they are generally raised from the sand, which +without any preparation serves for the floor of the apartment; so that +when any one rises from this soft floor, with his large heavy flowing +baracan, he may raise a cloud of dust enough to eclipse the whole +family. + +When the Bedouins wish to converse they do not sit at their ease, as we +do, upon sofas or chairs, without any ceremony, but place themselves in +a formal circle on the ground: the man who speaks first makes a smooth +place with his hand on the sand, and continues the conversation with +his fingers, making spots, and strokes, and points, as required. When +they meet each other, they exclaim, “_Salem Aleike_,” “Peace be with +you,” clapping at the same time the right hand on the heart. + +Now we will return to Belzoni. He was just arrived at the camp of the +Bedouins; and the proud Scheik Grumar was going to attend him through +the desert. + +They exchanged their donkeys for camels, and advanced towards the west, +passed through several rocky valleys, and slept the first night under +a sand bank: the second night the foliage of some palm-trees afforded +them shelter; and in the morning, continuing their course, they came to +a wide open plain of sand and stones, with several heaps piled above +the rest. These were tumuli, but nothing of the temple of Jupiter Ammon +was to be seen. They went on until at noon they saw a high hill at a +distance, and soon after the guide pointed out the rocks of the Elloah. +In the afternoon to their great joy they saw two crows. + +We can see plenty of crows every day in this country, but had we +been in Belzoni’s place we might have been equally rejoiced, for the +appearance of these birds was a sure sign that water was not far off, a +great treat to the traveller in a hot sandy desert. + +The Elloah, which I have mentioned several times, is a valley +surrounded by high rocks, which form a spacious plain of twelve miles +long, almost covered with sand; some small hills, overgrown with rushes +and other plants, are scattered here and there, and the temple of which +Belzoni was in search was supposed to have been in or near this spot. +Our travellers advanced towards a forest of date trees, situated near a +village named Zaboo, and all of them were exceedingly thirsty. Before +the camels arrived they scented the water at some distance, and set off +at full gallop, without stopping till they reached a rivulet, where, +having alighted for a short time to allow the camels to drink, Belzoni +observed a certain uneasiness in the manner of Scheik Grumar, for which +he did not know how to account. + +OWEN.--Had he been an Arab of Gournou, I should have thought that some +bad design had entered his head: but he was an honest Bedouin, you +know. I want to hear what reason he had for behaving so. Go on, if you +please, mother. + +MRS. A.--Belzoni went farther down the rivulet to drink too, and after +having watered the camels, they were about to proceed slowly towards +the village; but no sooner were they mounted than they heard some one +calling to them, and at the same moment a man rushed out of the bushes +with a gun, and put himself into an attitude as if to fire upon them. + +[Illustration] + +His appearance was not very terrifying, nor did his dress bespeak +him to be a person of much consequence. He was not more than four +feet high, of a chocolate colour (as the Bedouins generally are,) and +covered with a black woollen cloth. The Scheik immediately dismounted, +speaking to him in the Arabic dialect. The man recognised him, and +Belzoni was pleased to observe they appeared friendly towards each +other. The man was anxious to learn of whom the party consisted: the +guide told him that they were people in search of old stones: to which +he replied that no one ever came there to seek for old stones, and he +did not know what the Scheiks of Zaboo, the village to which they were +going, would think of it; he said also that he had intended to shoot +Belzoni while he was kneeling to drink at the spring. It was well that +Scheik Grumar was with him, for if that mysterious little man had not +recognised him, he might have carried his design into execution. + +They continued to advance towards Zaboo, and the man began to walk +before them; but when they had nearly reached the village, he ran off +as fast as he could into a wood of palm-trees. Our travellers now +entered a valley, which formed a most pleasing contrast to the barren +scenes of the desert, for it was full of date and palm-trees, some +covered with blossom, and others loaded with fruit; apricots scented +the air with their mellow fragrance; figs, almonds, and grapes grew in +profusion; the ground was covered with verdure, and here and there a +spot of cultivated land was seen waving with rice. On their approaching +a wide place the guide halted and desired them to wait till his return; +he walked on, and Belzoni perceived that he went into a kind of +habitation at some distance. + +OWEN.--I am sure if I had been Belzoni I would never have waited there +at the pleasure of Scheik Grumar. + +MRS. A.--The poor Scheik seems no favourite of yours, perhaps you will +alter your mind presently. + +Half an hour passed and he did not return: Belzoni inquired of the +drivers where the guide was gone; they replied they did not know. +Another hour passed, no Scheik appeared; Belzoni was tired of waiting, +and set off with his gun towards the place which he had seen the guide +enter, but before he reached the spot he heard the voices of men, +women, and children; and when he came nearer he saw a wall enclosing +a great many houses, and just within the gates there was a yard, in +which were assembled all the chiefs of the villages, and many others, +sitting on the ground, debating whether or not the stranger should be +admitted, and the guide very busy in persuading them that they were but +harmless people, and only come there to look after old stones. + +OWEN.--My opinion is changed, mother, I did not much like the conduct +of the Scheik at first, but it seems he wished to make friends with the +inhabitants of Zaboo, and that he was a brave fellow after all. I will +not form a judgment so soon another time. + +MRS. A.--Endeavour to adhere to your resolution, my dear boy: for it is +not wise to form an unfavourable opinion upon too slight a foundation. + +On the arrival of Belzoni, there whole attention was turned towards +him, and a perfect silence ensued. He walked straight forward, when +they all rose without speaking a word, and gazed upon him in wonder and +astonishment. He inquired who was their Scheik, when his guide pointed +out three or four old men, telling him they were the Scheiks of the +place. Belzoni shook hands with them; some of the people received him +with good humour, and others went away murmuring. They inquired what he +wanted. He told them he was a stranger, and merely came to visit the +place, as he expected to find some stones belonging to his ancestors, +and hoped they should be friends. At the same time he sent his guide +to fetch the camels, and on their arrival ordered coffee to be made. +A fine carpet was spread upon the ground, and they became sociable by +degrees: in a short time the rest of the village had assembled; cows, +camels, sheep, donkeys, men, women, and children, all gazing upon him +in amazement. + +They were acquainted with Turks and other tribes of Arabs, but had +never seen a Christian, or Frank, as they are called here. They told +Belzoni that he would see nothing there, but must go somewhere else; +it seemed that they did not like the thought of his searching for +stones. However they gave him a large bowl of rice for his supper, and +he lighted a wax candle, which surprised them very much, as they had +never seen a candle before; but they used him rather shabbily, for +without saying a single word they all rose up and walked off with the +candle, leaving him in the dark, with his carpet and saddle to sleep +on. This circumstance did not disturb his repose, and the next morning, +after some little difficulty, and many assurances that stones and not +treasures were the objects of his search, Belzoni set off through a +thick wood of palm-trees, and traversed many sandy plains, barren +deserts, ruined edifices, and old towns; but no temple of Jupiter Ammon +was to be seen, and he returned half in despair to Zaboo. + +By this time the inhabitants of the village of El Cassar, which is only +separated from Zaboo by a high rock, were informed that a stranger +had arrived there in search of treasure. They were all in an uproar +immediately, and protested that he should never enter their village. + +A man who lived half way between the two villages, and occasionally +reported what was passing from one to the other, came to Belzoni and +said there was a very large temple in the other village, which excited +his curiosity; so he got the man to take a message from him to the +Scheik and Kadee, and tell them that he came to the Elloah to visit +them; that he was not a soldier, and that they would gratify him by +appointing a place where they might meet him the next morning. He then +returned to the village, and the man to his habitation on the side of +the rock. + +The next morning our friend was informed that these two great people +were coming towards Zaboo. He of course thought it favourable +intelligence, and hastened to meet them. The Scheik of the Elloah came +first; he was a good-natured looking man, on horseback, dressed in red +striped linen cloth, with pistols and gun: the Kadee (Kadee signifies +judge or justice of peace) was a rough looking fellow, clothed in green +cloth and turban, and accoutred like his companion. After those two +mighty personages came about twenty horsemen, and as many foot, all +well armed. Having reached the village they dismounted, some mats were +brought and the chiefs seated themselves whilst the attendants stood +around. Belzoni presented the usual salute, _Salem Aleike_, and was +requested to sit down among them. They became very anxious to know what +had brought him there, making many inquiries, and it was a long time +before they could be assured that to search for antiquities was his +only motive. + +[Illustration] + +At last, however, Belzoni gained his end, and obtained permission to +enter their village. Having made a repast of coffee, the chiefs set +off, and when they were gone our antiquary prepared to follow them. He +commenced his journey before sunset, passed over the sandy banks on +the west of the village, crossed the plain, ascended the rocks which +separate the two villages, and reached El Cassar on the evening of the +next day. He was received by the Scheik, who was become quite friendly +towards him, with somewhat like English hospitality; he begged him to +sleep at his house, and sent him a large bowl of rice for his supper. +Accordingly Belzoni accepted his invitation, though I do not know that +he reposed more soundly upon the Scheik’s mat than he had often done +under a sand bank, or upon a sugar-cane bed. + +The house of the Scheik was similar to the others, being made of mud; +a few beams of palm-tree laid across formed the roof, on the top of +which was thrown a great quantity of straw with old mats over. They had +much conversation together, and the Scheik told Belzoni in confidence, +that it was the father of the Kadee who had so strongly objected to his +visiting the ruins in their village. + +On the following morning, a long consultation took place whether he +should or should not be allowed to examine them; at length it was +settled for the old man himself to accompany him, and they set off +together. When they arrived at the spot, Belzoni was much gratified +by observing many ruins and fragments, which showed that there had +evidently been some magnificent edifice, and though little remained, he +returned highly delighted, in the assurance that he had discovered the +seat of the celebrated temple of Jupiter Ammon. + +Before he returned to Zaboo, he expressed his gratitude to the old man +who had conducted him to the ruins; made several presents of coral, +soap, and coffee to the Kadee and the good-natured Scheik, and parted +great friends with all the people at the village of El Cassar. + +An unfortunate accident happened to him as he was ascending the rock he +had to pass on his way to Zaboo. His camel slipped its foot on one side +and rolled down the rock the height of about twenty feet, taking his +rider of course with him. This was a sad event for these rocks were not +so soft as the sandy spot in Wady el Gomal, where his camel threw him +before. + +Belzoni was very much bruised, and conveyed on a donkey to Zaboo, and +there carried to the house of a Scheik, where he was accommodated in +a narrow passage which led from the street door to a yard behind the +house, his saddle as usual forming his only bed. This was a miserable +place for any one in his condition, for the men, women, children, +buffaloes, cows, donkeys, goats, and dogs, passed backwards and +forwards continually, totally regardless of him. + +In the course of a few days, though his side was still painful, they +proceeded once more, and by short stages arrived in about a week in the +valley of the Nile at the Bahr Yousef, which if you remember they had +crossed before: on the evening of the same day they reached Sedmin. + +EMILY.--Ah, Sedmin el Djabel, at the foot of the range of low mountains +which forms the skirt of the desert, and where he had engaged his guide +Scheik Grumar; then he was pretty near Benisoeuf, mother, and when he +gets there I expect his old friend Khalil Bey will take care of him, +and be very glad to see him too. + +MRS. A.--They arrived at Benisoeuf the next day. Belzoni did not remain +long at that place, but embarked for Cairo, and thence proceeded to +Rosetta. Mrs. Belzoni was there, and she could take better care of him +than any one else. + +At length, having settled all his affairs in Egypt, in 1819 our +enterprising traveller embarked for Europe. After an absence of twenty +years, he returned to his native country, and into the bosom of his +family; from whence he departed for England; and I think we owe him +many thanks for the amusement and instruction his “Researches” have +afforded us. + +BERNARD.--So he actually reached England at last! And I learn from your +account, mother, that perseverance will enable us to do great things, +which without it could never be done! + +EMILY.--And I am glad, mother, to find you have proved the truth of +your assertion, that patience conquers difficulties, and crowns all our +endeavours with success. + +OWEN.--Belzoni was quite a boy when his attention was first turned +to hydraulics; otherwise he might never have gone into Egypt, for he +went there, you know, mother, in hopes of convincing the Bashaw that +an hydraulic machine would be of use to irrigate his fields. Had he +not done so, the great pyramid might have remained unopened a thousand +years longer: the tomb of Psammuthis, in the valley of Beban el Malook, +might never had been explored; and _we_ should never have heard this +amusing narrative of Belzoni’s discoveries in Egypt and Nubia. + +MRS. A.--You see how much depends upon our youthful pursuits. + + “And thus it is--no plainer truth appears, + OUR MOST IMPORTANT ARE OUR EARLIEST YEARS.” + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + + +SCHOOL DISTRICT LIBRARY, + +PUBLISHED BY + +C. S. FRANCIS & CO. NEW YORK. + + +A detailed account of the contents and character of these works, and +the price of each, may be found in “The Literary Advertiser” of the +publishers, which is furnished gratis, either in New York or Boston. + + +LIBRARY OF ENTERTAINING AND USEFUL READING, + +Twelve volumes, large 18mo. 288 pages each, namely, + + 1. THE MIRROR with 22 Engravings. + 2. THE CABINET 39 ” + 3. THE CASKET 37 ” + 4. THE TREASURY 34 ” + 5. THE BUDGET 23 ” + 6. THE REPERTORY 33 ” + 7. THE TABLET 31 ” + 8. THE MEMORIAL 36 ” + 9. THE GLEANER 30 ” + 10. THE EMPORIUM 33 ” + 11. THE SELECTOR 27 ” + 12. THE GALAXY 26 ” + + +LIBRARY OF INSTRUCTIVE AMUSEMENT, + +Six volumes, 18mo. 336 pages each, namely, + + 13. YOUNG MAN’S EVENING BOOK with 50 Engravings + 14. WINTER EVENING BOOK 61 ” + 15. SUMMER DAY BOOK 72 ” + 16. EVERY DAY BOOK 71 ” + 17. PARLOUR BOOK 27 ” + 18. LEISURE HOUR BOOK 55 ” + + 19. BELZONI’S TRAVELS IN EGYPT, with Plates. + 20. TRUE STORIES FROM HISTORY. By a Lady. + 21. 22. AROUND THE WORLD, by an Officer of the Navy. + 23. 24. ZENOBIA, or the Full of Palmyra. + 25-28. LIFE OF WALTER SCOTT, by J. G. Lockhart. + 29. SANDFORD AND MERTON, _Corrected_, Pictorial ed. + 30-39. PARLEY’S MAGAZINE. 10 large volumes. + +Price of the whole set $20. + +These books have been submitted to the Superintendent of Common Schools +of the State of New York, and the introduction of them all into the +District Libraries throughout the State is approved by him. + + +Transcriber’s Notes. + +Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=. +Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS. + +Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected +silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised. + +A reiteration of the title has been discarded. + +A single footnote has been moved to the end of the relevant chapter. + +To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between +paragraphs, adjacent to the text that they illustrate. + +A publishers bookplate and advertisement have been moved to the end of +the book. + +Cover art created for this eBook is granted to the public domain. + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 *** |