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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 ***
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                          FRUITS OF ENTERPRIZE
+                            EXHIBITED IN THE
+                          ADVENTURES OF BELZONI
+                                   IN
+                            EGYPT AND NUBIA
+
+                           WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
+                    HIS DISCOVERIES IN THE PYRAMIDS,
+          AMONG THE RUINS OF CITIES, AND IN THE ANCIENT TOMBS.
+
+                          “LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.”
+
+                             [Illustration]
+
+                 A NEW EDITION, REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS.
+
+                                NEW YORK:
+                    CHARLES S. FRANCIS, 252 BROADWAY
+
+                                 BOSTON:
+                JOSEPH H. FRANCIS, 128 WASHINGTON STREET.
+
+                                  1843.
+
+
+
+
+NOTICE.
+
+
+Placed in an amphitheatre of boundless extent, and surrounded by an
+immense variety of objects, young persons are naturally inquisitive,
+and delighted with every new accession of knowledge; and as truth is no
+longer deemed incompatible with amusement, the most pleasing mode of
+conveying the former appears to be to blend it with the latter.
+
+Influenced by this belief, the compiler of this little volume was
+induced to place it in the “Library of Instructive Amusement;” she
+is happy in having an opportunity of acknowledging her thanks to the
+enterprising traveller, who politely gave her his permission to do so.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER I.
+
+  Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni introduced.--Motives
+  for his going into Egypt.--Poor success of his hydraulic machine.--His
+  thoughts turned towards the Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in
+  removing Young Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy
+  cave.--Deceit of the Arabs.                                         13
+
+  CHAPTER II.
+
+  Egyptian Customs.--Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.--Visits the
+  Island of Elephantis.--Arrives at Ybsambul.--Attempts to open its
+  magnificent Temple.--Obliged for want of time and money to give
+  up the project.--Visits the little island of Mainarty.--Danger
+  on the Cataract.--Returns to Thebes.--Removal of Young Memnon to
+  Cairo.--Belzoni resides for a short time at Rosetta.                45
+
+  CHAPTER III.
+
+  Bernard’s perseverance.--Belzoni’s second Voyage.--Rapid Journey
+  from Minieh to Thebes.--Superb Temple at Carnac.--Works carried
+  on both at Gournou and Carnac.--Mummy Caves.--Belzoni’s object
+  in entering them.--Manufactures of the ancient Egyptians.--Their
+  Idols.--Curious Habitations at Gournou.--He revisits Ybsambul.--Opens
+  the Temple.--Returns highly gratified to Thebes.                    70
+
+  CHAPTER IV.
+
+  Emily amused with a description of Greenland.--Belzoni makes the valley
+  of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.--He enters and explores
+  the tomb of Psammuthis.--Receives a visit from Hamed Aga.--Returns
+  to Cairo.--Visits the Pyramids.--Time and purpose of their erection
+  uncertain.--Enters one which for more than one thousand years had
+  appeared a solid mass of stones.                                   101
+
+  CHAPTER V.
+
+  Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going there.--Inundation
+  of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the Desert.--Account of Ababde, an
+  independent tribe, residing among the rocks on the coast of the Red
+  Sea.--Journey in search for the ancient city of Berenice.          126
+
+  CHAPTER VI.
+
+  Search for the ancient city of Berenice.--The boats of the Ababde
+  fishermen described.--Discovers the remains of the Berenice mentioned
+  by a former traveller.--Returns towards Esne.--Meets with two shepherd
+  girls tending their sheep on the mountains.--Sufferings of travellers
+  in crossing the Deserts.--The caravan reaches the banks of the
+  Nile.--Belzoni returns to Gournou.                                 140
+
+  CHAPTER VII.
+
+  Dr. Franklin’s kite.--Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar by means of
+  a paper kite.--Removal of the obelisk from the Island of Philoe.--It
+  falls into the Nile.--Ingenious method of raising it.--It is launched
+  down the cataract.--Arrives in safety in Rosetta.--Belzoni goes to
+  Beban el Malook.--Completes his drawings and models of the Tomb.--Bids
+  final adieu to Thebes.--Traverses the Western Desert in search of the
+  Temple of Jupiter Ammon.--Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.--Reaches the
+  Lake Mœris.--Rose-trees in profusion.                              156
+
+  CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the rocks near
+  the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the famous Labyrinth.--Visit
+  to the Elloah.--An interview with Khalil Bey.--Account of
+  the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the Desert attended by Scheik
+  Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at
+  Zaboo.--Interview with the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni
+  goes to their village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets
+  with an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches
+  Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to
+  England.                                                           172
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+CONTAINING A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE LAST DAYS OF BELZONI.
+
+
+Since the first appearance of this little work, the enterprising
+individual whose discoveries it relates, and who gave his permission
+for its publication, has departed this life. It was hoped that through
+his means some account of places, imperfectly described by others,
+might have been obtained; but the decree of Providence has prevented
+the accomplishment of so desirable an object. The following short
+account of his latter days will not be considered an improper appendage
+to the work:--
+
+    “Died at Gato, near Benin, in Africa, on the 3d of December
+    1823, Mr. G. BELZONI, so well known for his Egyptian tombs. He
+    was so far on his way into the interior, endeavouring to reach
+    Houssa, when a dysentery put an end to his valuable life. He
+    was buried at Gato the day after his decease, and a board, with
+    the following inscription, was placed over his grave:--
+
+      HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF
+
+      G. BELZONI,
+
+      Who was attacked with Dysentery, at Benin,
+      (on his way to Houssa and Timbuctoo,)
+      on the 26th of November, and died
+      at this place,
+      December 3d, 1823.
+
+    “Mr. Belzoni had been landed by Captain Filmore, R. N. at
+    Benin. Captain Filmore exerted himself arduously in assisting
+    the intrepid traveller, and discharged a man from his vessel,
+    who was a native of Houssa, that he might accompany Mr. B. on
+    his route. The following extract of a letter contains most
+    of the late particulars respecting this enterprising and
+    scientific individual:--
+
+    “On the night of the 24th of November, Mr. Belzoni left us,
+    with Mr. Houtson, for Gato. On parting with us he seemed a
+    little agitated, particularly when the crew of the brig which
+    brought him, (to each of whom he had made a present) gave him
+    three loud cheers on leaving the vessel? “God bless you, my
+    fine fellows! and send you a happy sight of your country and
+    friends!” Was his answer. On the 3d of December I received
+    a letter from Mr. Houtson, requesting me to come to Benin,
+    as Mr. B. was lying dangerously ill; and, in case of death,
+    wished a second person to be present. I was prevented going,
+    not only by business, but by a severe fever which had then hold
+    of me. On the 5th, I had a second letter from Mr. H. with
+    the particulars of Mr. B.’s end; and one from himself, almost
+    illegible, dated December 2, requesting me to assist in the
+    disposal of his effects, and to remit the proceeds home to his
+    agents, Messrs Briggs, Brothers & Co, America Square, London,
+    together with a beautiful Amethyst ring, which he seemed
+    particularly desirous should be delivered to his wife, with the
+    assurance that he died in the fullest affection for her, as he
+    found himself too weak to write his last wishes and adieus.
+
+    “At the time of Mr. Belzoni’s death, Mr. Houtson had every
+    thing arranged with the King of Benin for his departure, and,
+    had his health continued, there is no doubt he would have
+    succeeded. Mr. Belzoni passed at Benin as an inhabitant, or
+    rather native, of the interior, who had come to England when a
+    youth, and was now trying to return to his country. The kings
+    and emigrands (or nobles) gave credit to this, Mr. Belzoni
+    being in a Moorish dress, with his beard nearly a foot in
+    length. There was, however, some little jealousy amongst them,
+    which was removed by a present or two, well applied; and the
+    King of Benin’s messenger was to accompany Mr. Belzoni with
+    the King’s cane, and as many men as were considered necessary
+    for a guard and baggage-carriers. The King’s name is respected
+    as far as Houssa, and he has a messenger, or ambassador,
+    stationary there. On Mr. Belzoni’s arrival at Houssa, he was
+    to leave his guard there, and proceed to Timbuctoo, the King
+    not guaranteeing his safety farther than Houssa, and Timbuctoo
+    not being known at Benin. On his return to Houssa, he would
+    make the necessary preparations for going down the Niger, and
+    despatch his messengers and guard back with letters to his
+    agents and to Mr. John Houtson: the messenger to be rewarded
+    according to the account the letters gave of his behaviour, and
+    the King to receive a valuable stated present. This was the
+    plan, and I think it would have proved fortunate, had Mr. B.
+    lived.
+
+    “Mr. Belzoni was a native of Padua, and had known England many
+    years. He first visited Egypt with a view of erecting hydraulic
+    engines for the Pasha, to assist in irrigating the country.
+    In stature, he was above six feet and a half, and possessed
+    of great bodily strength. His manners and deportment were
+    marked by great suavity and mildness, and he had a genuine love
+    for science in all its branches. He was brave, ardent, and
+    persevering in pursuit of his objects; and his decease at the
+    moment of a strong hope of success, must be deeply felt by all
+    who estimate the true interests of science and the light of
+    discovery at their true value!”
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+    Bernard’s picture.--Situation of Egypt.--Belzoni
+    introduced.--Motives for his going into Egypt.--Poor success
+    of his hydraulic machine.--His thoughts turned towards the
+    Antiquities of the country.--Difficulty in removing Young
+    Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.--Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy
+    cave.--Deceit of the Arabs.
+
+
+“The last--the very last pyramid! dear Laura,” exclaimed the little
+Bernard, as he climbed upon his sister’s chair, and surveyed a sketch
+that she was copying, from one in a large folio volume.
+
+“And now, when you have shaded the side of that pyramid, will you draw
+the wheel of my cart? I am quite, quite tired of your tombs, and your
+pillars, and your ruins, and your monuments, falling this way and that
+way:--I would much rather know how to draw the spokes of the wheels of
+my little cart:--it is impossible for me to finish my picture;--you see
+I have made my wagon turning down a shady lane,--it is evening--the
+lamps are lit on the posts--the moon is peeping behind the trees, and
+the smoke is rising from the chimnies of my carter’s cottage--but my
+poor cart has no wheels because I cannot draw spokes--and now, is that
+tiresome pyramid done, dear Laura?”
+
+“If you knew all that render those pyramids so interesting to Laura,
+my love,” said Bernard’s mother, “you would not be in such great haste
+to see them finished; indeed I believe you would willingly give up the
+pleasure of seeing your own little picture completed, to watch your
+sister draw hers.”
+
+“Indeed, mother!” exclaimed the lively boy--“where are they, and why do
+you think that the account of them will amuse me so much?”
+
+“My story is a long one,” replied his mother, “so I will not begin it
+till after tea, and then we can go on without interruption.”
+
+“Oh, mamma! that will be delightful! quite delightful! for we can have
+a settled evening; and as to my cart, Laura may put in the spokes
+to-morrow--the wheels will not signify for one night, will they,
+mother?” exclaimed Bernard, and, without waiting for an answer, he
+jumped up, fetched his little straw hat from its hook in the hall, and
+ran across the lawn to tell Owen and Emily, who were busily engaged
+training a white clematis round one of the pillars of the alcove. They
+quickly returned together. Tea was despatched, and the cheerful group
+repaired to the library. The maps were laid open on the library table.
+Laura seated herself between her two brothers, and Emily whose blue
+eyes sparkled with joy, placed herself by the side of her mother.
+
+“And now, why do you think that Laura’s picture would please me so
+much, mother?” said Bernard; “where are those pyramids?”
+
+“Think for a moment, my dear. Do you not know the name of the country
+so renowned for these famous mementos of ancient art?--you have often
+been told.”
+
+Bernard paused--“In Egypt, mother,--in Egypt, an ancient kingdom of
+Africa.”
+
+“Can you give me any account of Egypt--do you know anything respecting
+that country?”
+
+Bernard paused again, but Emily looked up wishfully and said,
+
+“May I tell you what I know, mother?” Her mother nodded assent.
+
+“Egypt,” said Emily, “consists of a narrow vale on both sides of the
+Nile, bounded by ridges of mountains or hills. Nubia is on the south;
+on the west it joins the great sandy deserts; on the north it is washed
+by the Mediterranean; and on the east by the Red Sea, except where it
+is joined to Asia by the narrow neck of land called the Isthmus of
+Suez.”
+
+“I recollect more about Egypt, now that Emily mentions the Nile,”
+exclaimed her little brother: “I have often heard of the rushes that
+grew on the banks of that river--the people used to make their paper
+of them, and write all their books upon it--all that they wrote--they
+placed the thin leaves of the stem one over the other, then flattened
+them, and platted them as Fanny plats her little paper mats; so that
+one leaf lay one way and another another way, and then they were stuck
+together with the muddy water of the Nile, and the leaves were dried
+and pressed with heavy weights--and rubbed and pressed again a great
+many times.”
+
+“And,” said Owen, “papa has often told us that in Egypt there is
+very little rain, and that the Nile at certain periods overflows its
+banks, and carries with its waters a rich mud, which renders the soil
+fruitful, without that labour which the farmers in England are obliged
+to bestow, before the fields are fit to receive the grain. In Egypt,
+they have only to put the seeds into the ground.”
+
+“But if the Nile should not overflow, just when they expected it,” said
+Bernard, “what would they do then?”
+
+“This sometimes happens,” said Laura, “but you will hear by and by
+of the means which have been taken to prevent the famine which is
+generally occasioned by such a calamity, and of the mode which is
+used to supply the deficiency, if the river do not afford its usual
+assistance.”
+
+“Well, mamma,” said Owen, “now that we know where Egypt is--now for
+the pyramids:--whereabouts are they, and for what purpose were they
+erected?”
+
+“Not so fast, my love. Let us proceed gradually. I have not yet told
+you that Egypt is divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower; and that it is
+a country renowned in history, having been once the seat, if not the
+parent of the sciences. It is not only remarkable for those surprising
+monuments of antiquity, the famous pyramids, which baffle the
+researches of the deepest antiquary to fix upon their origin, but also
+for many other “glorious structures,” astonishing remains of ancient
+temples, pompous palaces, obelisks, columns, statues, and paintings.
+Thus is Egypt rendered so interesting; and it is at the present time
+peculiarly so to us, because a gentleman has lately, with indefatigable
+zeal, made many researches in that country, and his curious discoveries
+among the pyramids and temples have excited the public attention in no
+small degree. He has spent many years in this arduous employment, and
+is now amply compensated in knowing that they have not been spent in
+vain.”
+
+“Oh, mamma!” exclaimed Emily, “tell me the name of this gentleman:--why
+did he go there? Was he fond of antiquities? How did he manage to enter
+the pyramids? and what did he find in them?”
+
+“I cannot give a reply to so many questions in a breath, my little
+girl; however, I will answer one of them:--the name of the gentleman I
+mentioned is BELZONI.”
+
+“A native of England, mamma?”
+
+“No; a native of Padua.”
+
+“Padua, an ancient, large, and celebrated city of Italy,” said Laura,
+as she pointed to the map.
+
+“Is it all true that you are going to tell us, mother?” said Owen.
+
+“Perfectly true. The account I purpose giving you of Egypt and Nubia is
+taken from Belzoni’s own Travels, recently published: you may therefore
+rely on its correctness.
+
+“Unfortunate circumstances falling out in his native country, compelled
+Belzoni to leave it, and about twenty years ago he came to England.
+Here he married, and contrived to live on his own industry, and the
+knowledge he had acquired in various branches whilst at Rome, in
+which city he had spent many of his juvenile hours. He now turned
+his thoughts to hydraulics, a science to which he had before paid
+attention, and which in the end was the principal cause of his going
+into Egypt.”
+
+“I must interrupt you dear mamma,” said Bernard; “will you tell me what
+is meant by _hydraulics_, and why Belzoni should go into Egypt on that
+account?”
+
+“The science which has for its object the motion of fluids is called
+hydraulics, and its principal object is to furnish us with the means
+of conducting water from one situation to another by canals or other
+means. Belzoni imagined that a hydraulic machine would be of great use
+in Egypt to irrigate the fields, which want water only to make them
+produce at any time of the year.”
+
+“Then the soil is fertile, and the climate warm, I suppose, mamma?”
+said Owen.
+
+“Yes: the soil of Egypt is particularly noted for the fertility
+occasioned by its wonderful river; and, while thinking of this, we are
+led to observe the two beautiful prospects which, owing to it, Egypt
+exhibits at two seasons of the year. During _our_ summer the climate
+_there_ is excessively warm, and it is impossible to describe a scene
+more delightful than that which the country presents at the first
+overflowing of the Nile; the spectator beholds a spacious sea, spotted
+with innumerable towns and villages, sometimes contrasted with groves
+of palm-trees, while a magnificent display of sylvan and mountainous
+scenery bounds the extensive prospect.
+
+“On the contrary, if the view be taken when _our_ gardens and fields
+are clothed in the robes of winter, the whole country _there_ resembles
+one large meadow, covered with the finest verdure, and enamelled with
+the choicest flowers; the plains embellished with flocks and herds; the
+air, pure and salubrious, scented with orange and lemon blossoms, which
+blow in luxuriance.”
+
+“I should like to live in Egypt, mamma!” exclaimed Bernard.
+
+“But inconveniences are to be met with there, as well as every where
+else, my love. The heat is oppressive to all who are unused to it:
+indeed, the southerly winds are sometimes so sultry as to oblige the
+natives to immure themselves in vaults or caves; and not unfrequently
+these winds raise such clouds of sand as to obscure the light of
+the sun, and, even to those who are used to them, to be almost
+insupportable. The people call them poisonous winds, or winds of the
+Desert, and, during the three days that they generally last, the
+streets are forsaken; and in a melancholy condition is the unfortunate
+traveller, whom they surprise remote from shelter.”
+
+“I wonder,” exclaimed Emily, “whether Belzoni ever encountered them.
+Do you think he did, mamma?”
+
+“I will begin my account, and then you may hear a description of the
+various adventures he met with.”
+
+Mrs. A. then began to relate some circumstances of _Belzoni’s
+Researches in Egypt and Nubia_, as follows.
+
+Some years after Mr. Belzoni had resided in England, he formed the
+resolution of going to the south of Europe; and, taking Mrs. Belzoni
+with him, he visited Portugal and Spain, and afterwards the small
+but important isle of Malta, which lies to the south of Sicily,
+and is celebrated for its fine port and for the strength of its
+fortifications, now belonging to Great Britain. Hence they embarked for
+Egypt, and arrived in safety in Alexandria, on the seacoast.
+
+On entering the harbour of this city, Belzoni was informed that the
+plague was there. To an European, who had never been in that country,
+this was alarming intelligence. Happily, however, it nearly ceased in
+a short time; and as his principal view was to go on to Cairo, the
+capital of Egypt, he hired a boat, and they embarked with an English
+gentleman, who was going up the Nile.
+
+This city is one hundred miles from the mouth of the Nile. Owing to
+contrary winds, it was some days before our travellers landed at
+Boolac, within a mile of it. At this place a bustling scene presented
+itself, and the majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various
+costumes, Arabs of many tribes, boats, camels, horses, and asses, all
+in motion formed a striking picture. Immediately after landing, they
+went to Cairo; but, as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta
+could not receive women within their walls, they were accommodated in
+an old house at Boolac, belonging to a gentleman, the interpreter and
+director of all foreign affairs of Mahomed Ali, the Turkish Viceroy, or
+Bashaw, by whom Egypt is governed.
+
+He was a man of great acuteness of understanding, and well disposed
+towards strangers; which was fortunate for Belzoni as he had to apply
+through this gentleman to the Bashaw respecting his hydraulic machine,
+for which purpose he went to Egypt.
+
+Travellers are frequently obliged to submit to inconvenience, and so
+were ours. The house they inhabited was so old and out of repair, that
+it appeared every moment as though ready to fall on their heads: all
+the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was
+in so bad a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door
+was merely fastened by a pole placed against it, having neither lock
+nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in the
+house, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state.
+The whole furniture consisted of a single mat, in one of the best
+rooms, which they considered as the drawing-room.
+
+No chairs are to be had in this country; so they sat on the ground,
+and a box or a trunk served as a table. Fortunately, they had a few
+plates, as well as knives and forks; and James, an Irish lad, whom they
+took with them, procured a set of culinary articles.
+
+Such were the accommodations our enterprising travellers met with at
+Boolac!
+
+Although Belzoni’s chief object was not to see antiquities at that
+time, yet he felt desirous of visiting the famous pyramids, which are
+at the foot of those mountains that separate Egypt from Libya.
+
+MRS. A.--The English gentleman who accompanied Belzoni up the Nile
+obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw, and went with him to
+the pyramids one evening, intending to ascend one of them the following
+morning to see the sun rise. Accordingly, they were on the top long
+before the dawn of day. The scene they beheld delighted them, being
+grand and majestic beyond description. A mist over the wide sandy
+plains formed a veil which vanished gradually as the sun rose, and
+at length opened to their view that beautiful land, once the site of
+Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids, on the south, marked
+the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn spectacle of the
+immense sandy desert on the west, stretching as far as the eye could
+reach, inspired sublimer feelings. The fertile land on the North, with
+the winding course of the Nile descending towards the sea; the rich
+appearance of Cairo and its glittering minarets; the beautiful plain,
+which extends from the pyramids to that city: the thick groves of
+palm-trees in the midst of the fertile valley, altogether formed a
+scene Belzoni was well calculated to enjoy.
+
+There are steps on the outside of the pyramids by which they can ascend.
+
+Having gratified his admiration, he went with his friend round the next
+pyramid, examined several of the mausoleums, and returned to Cairo,
+highly delighted with having seen a wonder they had long desired, but
+never supposed they should have the pleasure of beholding.
+
+A few days after this time, a party was formed to go to Sacara by
+water. After visiting the pyramids at that place, they returned to
+Cairo, except Mr. Turner, the English gentleman, and Belzoni, who went
+on to Dajior, and examined the remains of many other pyramids there.
+When they came back to the Nile, it was quite night, and they had to
+pass several villages before they reached a place where they could
+embark for Cairo. Their road lay through a cluster of palm-trees,
+which, as the moon was just rising, had a solemn effect. Some of the
+Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes of their tambourines, and,
+forgetting their masters, the Turks, were happy for a time. At length,
+Belzoni and his friend took a small boat, and arrived in Cairo before
+morning. Two days after this time, the former was to be presented to
+the Bashaw on the subject of his hydraulic project.
+
+We should hope the Bashaw would be pleased with it, after Belzoni had
+taken so much pains to promote the comfort of his people. But poor
+Belzoni met with an unfortunate accident, which detained him for some
+time. He received a violent blow on the leg, from a soldier who was
+passing on horseback, and was obliged to be taken to the convent of
+Terrasanta.
+
+It must have been very desolate to be laid up at such a place; and
+yet the convent was, perhaps, more comfortable than the old house at
+Boolac. I think that cruel soldier had never heard the golden rule,
+“Do as you would be done by,” for the common feelings of humanity were
+strangers to his bosom. Belzoni, however was well enough in a few days
+to be presented to the Bashaw.
+
+OWEN.--I do not like to interrupt you, mamma; but is the Bashaw in the
+place of a King? What sort of government is it in Egypt?
+
+MRS. A.--The form of government in Egypt is called an aristocracy,
+that is, a republican state, wherein the supreme power is consigned to
+nobles and peers. Since Egypt has been under the dominion of the Turks,
+it has been governed by a Bashaw, who resides at Cairo, and who has
+under him inferior governors in several parts of the country.
+
+The inhabitants of Egypt are composed of different races of people.
+The Turks, who think themselves entitled to be masters of the country,
+because the Arabs (who were another race) were conquered by them; then
+there are the Copts, who are descended from the first Egyptians; as
+well as many others, under different denominations.
+
+And now, having wandered from our subject we will pursue it, and relate
+some of Belzoni’s adventures.
+
+Adventures are delightful things, provided an escape follows.
+
+Belzoni made an arrangement with the Bashaw, and undertook to erect a
+machine which would raise as much water with one ox as the machines of
+the country with four.
+
+There was reason to expect that Mahomed Ali might be of too indolent a
+disposition to admire any thing new: he was a Turk you know, and the
+Turks are famed for their indolence. A person of an enervated turn of
+mind cannot derive so much pleasure from a new project as one of a more
+active disposition. Ali, however, received our Belzoni very civilly,
+and was much pleased with his proposition. And well he might be, when
+he could foresee that, if put in execution, it would spare the expense
+and labour of many thousands of oxen.
+
+Belzoni now commenced his hydraulic machine. It was to be erected in
+Soubra, at the garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles from
+Cairo. He had many difficulties to encounter, Bernard; for the very
+persons who were necessary to furnish him with wood, iron, carpentry,
+and so on, unfortunately recollected that they should be the first
+to suffer by it, if the machine succeeded. However success is secure
+unless energy fails, and Belzoni in time saw his water machine
+completed. But as he was some time at Soubra, perhaps you may like to
+hear how he passed the intervals, when unoccupied by his work.
+
+You see that a great deal depends upon the turn which is given to our
+early pursuits. The science of hydraulics first became familiar to
+Belzoni when he was a boy in Rome. I dare say he did not then think of
+going to Egypt?
+
+During his stay at Soubra, Belzoni became acquainted with many Turks,
+and particularly with the governor of the palace, as his house was
+within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw was under his care, and
+a guard was kept at the gates. The seraglio is so situated that it
+overlooks the Nile; at the back of it is a beautiful garden under the
+care of the Greeks, and kept in excellent order. It is ornamented with
+green bowers overhung with flowering shrubs, and alcoves in the form of
+little cupolas, around which the fragrant plants twine their numerous
+tendrils, whilst water machines constantly at work, kept up a perpetual
+verdure. Belzoni’s were not actually the _first_ water machines in use
+in Egypt, but much larger than any before known there, and the best
+calculated to answer any important purpose. You, Emily, who are so fond
+of flowers, will perhaps smile at the amusements which delight the
+Bashaw far more highly than watching the progress of his shrubs and
+plants. In the evening, when the sun is declining in the west, he quits
+the seraglio, and seats himself on the banks of the Nile, with his
+guards, to fire at an earthen pot on the opposite side.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+If Mahomed Ali be no botanist, he is an excellent marksman; for I
+believe the river at Soubra is wider than the Thames at Westminster
+Bridge.
+
+When it is dark he retires into the garden, and reposes in a shady
+alcove, or by the margin of some bubbling fountain, with all his
+attendants around him, who endeavour to amuse him, and make him feel
+in good humour with himself, whilst the murmuring of the waters, the
+lively tunes of the musical instruments, and the soft beams of the moon
+reflected upon the surface of the Nile, heightened the pleasure of the
+scene. Here Belzoni was often admitted, and thus had an opportunity
+of observing the domestic life of a man, who from nothing rose to be
+viceroy of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful tribes of Arabia.
+
+The Bashaw seemed to be well aware of the benefit that might be derived
+from his encouraging the arts of Europe in his country, and had already
+reaped some of the fruits of it. The manufacture of gunpowder, the
+refining of sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk manufacture
+were introduced much to his advantage; he is constantly inquiring after
+something new, and is delighted with any novelty. He had heard of
+electricity, and he sent to England for two electrical machines.
+
+Do you remember, Bernard, the shock you all received from the one in
+papa’s study, when you held a little chain, and Emily held your hand,
+and Owen hers, and we all jumped together?
+
+One of Mahomed Ali’s machines was broken by the way; the other was
+dismounted. No one could be found who knew how to set it up. Belzoni
+happened to be at the garden one night when they were attempting it,
+and he was requested to put the pieces together; having done so,
+he desired one of the soldiers to mount the insulating stool, when
+charging the machine, he gave the Turk a good shock, who being thus
+struck unawares, uttered a loud cry and jumped off extremely terrified.
+The Bashaw laughed at the man for doing so, supposing his alarm was
+a pretence and not the effect of the machine; and when told that it
+was actually occasioned by the machine, he positively affirmed that
+it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance that it was
+impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power.
+
+Belzoni desired the interpreter to inform his Highness that if he would
+have the goodness to mount the stool, he would be convinced of the
+fact. He hesitated a moment whether to believe it or not; however he
+mounted the stool. Belzoni charged well, put the little chain into his
+hand, and gave him a smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on
+feeling the effect of the electricity, and threw himself on the sofa,
+laughing immoderately and unable to conceive how the machine could have
+such power on the human body.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+You may imagine how very droll Mahomed Ali must have looked when he was
+standing upon that little stool, and especially when he found himself
+forced to jump off!
+
+The Arabs of Soubra display as much festivity when a marriage of
+consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt.
+One happened while Belzoni was there, and as the windows of his house
+overlooked the spot where it was performed, he had an opportunity of
+witnessing the ceremony. Early in the morning of the grand holiday, a
+high pole was reared in the centre of the place with a banner or flag
+belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gathered under it,
+and preparations were made for an illumination with glass lamps; music
+was prepared, &c.
+
+The Arabs from other villages came to the feast also, beating their
+tambourines and waving their flags; but they remained at some distance
+from the pole until invited to advance.
+
+The old people seated themselves around and under the pole, and the
+strangers were placed at a little distance. One of them began to
+sing, while the rest divided themselves into two parties, forming two
+circles, one within the other round the pole, and facing each other.
+
+Each man put his arms over his neighbours’ shoulders, and thus formed
+a chain. The outer circle stood still, while the people of the inner
+circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those on the
+outer. Thus they continued three hours, and those who were not in the
+circles made separate rings by themselves. This is the mode of dancing
+among the Arabs.
+
+All the women were at a distance by themselves, and among them was the
+bride. When the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down, and a
+great quantity of boiled rice was brought to them in wooden bowls, as
+well as some dishes of melokie and bamies, which are plants eaten in
+common by the Arabs as greens, and three or four sheep roasted, which
+were soon torn to pieces and devoured. A number of boys were fully
+employed during the whole ceremony in fetching water from the Nile. At
+night the little coloured lamps were lighted, a band of tambourines
+played continually, and the entertainment ended as it had commenced,
+with a dance.
+
+And now, let us turn to Belzoni. He completed his undertaking in
+time. The machine was constructed on the principle of a crane with a
+walking wheel, in which a single ox, by its own weight alone, could
+effect as much as four oxen employed in the machines of the country.
+Belzoni managed to prepare it in spite of the difficulties he had to
+encounter with the self-interested workmen; he was of too enterprising
+a disposition to give up a work which was the chief cause of his going
+into that country.
+
+BERNARD.--Before you go on, mamma, will you tell me what you mean by a
+crane?--there is a picture of a crane in my Bewick--but I cannot at all
+make out what is meant by a _crane with a walking wheel_.
+
+MRS. A.--The crane of which I speak, Bernard, is not a _bird_--but
+a machine used in building, for raising and lowering huge stones,
+heavy weights, and sometimes water, you see. It is a technical term in
+mechanics, and I will try by and bye to explain to you what is meant by
+a crane with a walking wheel.
+
+The Bashaw came to Soubra to examine the hydraulic machine. It was set
+to work and succeeded admirably, drawing in the same space of time six
+or seven times as much water as the common machines.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Belzoni thought himself well repaid. And the Egyptian farmers might now
+sow their seed without being afraid of a famine--even if the Nile did
+not overflow, they could raise water, and water their fields so well.
+
+Our best endeavours, however, though they sometimes appear at first
+crowned with success, may afterwards defeat the purpose for which they
+were intended. So it was with those of our ingenious friend. The Bashaw
+took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order
+to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would have by putting
+fifteen men into it. Poor James, the Irish lad you know, had entered
+along with them, but no sooner had the wheel turned once round than
+they all jumped out, leaving the boy alone in it. The wheel, of course,
+overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity
+that the catch was unable to stop it. James was thrown out, and in the
+fall broke one of his thighs. Belzoni contrived to stop the wheel
+before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him.
+
+The Turks are so superstitious, that they considered such an accident
+happening to a new invention as a bad omen--and thus Belzoni’s
+ingenuity was thrown away. The Bashaw was persuaded to abandon the
+affair, and the project of Belzoni being thus consigned to oblivion, he
+turned his thoughts to the antiquities of the country, and, possessing
+a spirit for investigation, determined to make some researches.
+
+A gentleman of the name of Burckhardt, had for a long time premeditated
+the removal of a colossal bust, known by the name of young Memnon, to
+England, and had often tried to persuade Ali to send it as a present
+to his Majesty; however, the Turk did not suppose it worth sending to
+so great a person. But Belzoni, knowing how much that gentleman wished
+it, proposed to undertake its conveyance from Thebes to Alexandria,
+and, with the Bashaw’s consent, to forward it from thence to England.
+He now, therefore, prepared to go up the Nile. He was then at Soubra,
+three miles from Cairo. It was intended to present this immense statue
+to the British Museum, and he was directed to search for it on the
+southern side of a ruined temple, in the vicinity of a village called
+Gournou, near Carnac. You can trace the course of the Nile from Cairo,
+upon the map, until you find Carnac just by Thebes. Gournou is near it.
+
+Belzoni was requested to spare neither expense nor trouble, in getting
+it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible. So he
+hired a boat, with four sailors, a boy, and a captain. Every thing
+was soon ready for their departure from Soubra. The whole of the
+implements, for the operation of removing the bust, consisted of a few
+poles and ropes of palm-leaves. Mrs. Belzoni accompanied her husband,
+and they agreed to stay and examine any ruins they might pass on the
+road. James, the Irish boy was, happily, able to accompany them. And
+now, you must follow their course on the map, from Boolac, where they
+embarked, to Thebes. In six days they arrived at Siout, the capital of
+Upper Egypt, and from thence they went to Acmin, where they landed to
+visit the fathers of a convent: and again proceeded, with curiosity
+highly raised, towards the noted temple of Tentyra. This is the first
+Egyptian temple the traveller sees, on ascending the Nile, as well as
+the most magnificent.
+
+It is two miles from the Nile, and Belzoni and his party having landed,
+set off on asses, and proceeded to the ruins. Little could be seen of
+the temple, till they were near it, as it is surrounded by high mounds
+of rubbish.
+
+When he arrived there, he was for some time at a loss to know in
+what part to begin his examinations. The numerous objects before
+him struck him with surprise and astonishment--the immense masses
+of stone employed in the edifice--the majestic appearance of its
+construction--the variety of its ornaments, and the excellent
+preservation in which he found it, had such an effect on Belzoni, that
+he seated himself on the ground, lost in delight and admiration.
+
+This temple is the cabinet of the Egyptian arts,--and it is supposed
+to have been built during the reign of the first Ptolemy. It is not
+improbable that he who studied to render himself beloved by his
+people, might erect such an edifice to convince the Egyptians of his
+superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious
+devotion.
+
+It will take us too long to describe this famous temple minutely. When
+Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni had gratified their curiosity, they returned to
+their little boat, and embarked for Thebes. They will soon have reached
+the end of their voyage, and then for the great colossal bust.
+
+Belzoni says, that it is impossible to imagine the scene displayed by
+the extensive ruins at Thebes. It appeared to him, on entering it, like
+a city of giants, who were all destroyed, leaving only the remains of
+various temples, as proofs of their former existence. The attention is
+attracted on one side, by towering ruins, that project above a noble
+wood of palm-trees, and there the traveller enters an endless number of
+temples, columns, obelisks, and portals. On every side he finds himself
+among wonders. The immense colossal figures in the plains, the number
+of tombs hollowed in the rocks, those in the great valley of the kings,
+with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, and figures, are all objects
+worthy of admiration, and one cannot fail to wonder how a nation,
+which was once so great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so
+far fall into oblivion, that even its language and writing are totally
+unknown to us.
+
+Having taken a survey of this seat of ancient grandeur, Belzoni crossed
+the Nile, and bent his way towards the ruined temple, near Gournou.
+It stands elevated above the plain; he entered the groups of columns,
+regarding the numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind them,
+and his first thought was to examine the bust he had to take away.
+
+He found it on the southern side of the temple, near the remains of its
+body and chair with the face upwards. It was beautiful, and of immense
+size. Laura, who has seen it in the British Museum, will be able to
+give you a more accurate account of it.
+
+BERNARD.--I cannot imagine, mamma, how Belzoni could attempt to remove
+it; you know he had only some poles, and some ropes of palm-leaves--and
+palm-ropes, made ever so strong, would not be able to support such
+a weight. I think he had better have contrived a car, somewhat like
+that the African sheep has to rest its tail upon, in “Church’s
+cabinet,”--and by this means he might have brought it to the Nile, and
+then had it placed in a boat, and conveyed to Cairo.
+
+MRS. A.--No bad scheme, my little boy! Belzoni’s whole set of
+implements consisted of fourteen poles, eight of which he did employ
+in making a car, similar to what you have proposed; four ropes of
+palm-leaves, and four rollers--they were better than wheels; and he now
+began to be very busy.
+
+As the bust was some way from the Nile, it would have been too far
+for them to go to sleep in the boat every night; so a small hut was
+formed for them with stones, among the ruins of the temple. They were
+not very handsomely lodged, but perhaps they found this little hut as
+comfortable as the shabby old house at Boolac, which they were always
+expecting to fall upon their heads, and both our travellers were used
+to put up with inconvenient things.
+
+The season at which time the Nile usually overflows was fast
+approaching, and all of the lands which extend from the temple to the
+water side, would have been covered in the course of a month--The
+ground between the bust and the river was very uneven, so that unless
+it had been conveyed over those places before the inundation commenced,
+it would have been impossible to have affected it. Belzoni, therefore,
+lost no time. With some difficulty he procured a number of men, and
+agreed to give them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence
+halfpenny English money, if they would undertake to assist him. A
+carpenter made a car, somewhat like that which supports the tail of
+your African sheep, Bernard, only very large, and the first operation
+was to place the bust upon this simple carriage. The people of Gournou,
+who were familiar with Caphany, as they named it, were persuaded that
+it could never be removed from the spot where it lay and when they
+saw, what to them appeared so impossible, they set up a shout, and
+could not believe that it was the effect of their own efforts. The next
+thing was to place it on the car. Can you guess how Belzoni managed
+this business?
+
+BERNARD.--I fancy, that he bound the palm-leaf ropes round and round
+Caphany very fast, and very firmly, and then the men tried and tried,
+until they had lifted him up, and placed him upon it.
+
+MRS. A.--Ah, my little friend! you do not evince much knowledge of
+mechanical powers, or you could not suppose that this image would be
+moved by mere personal strength. Now, Owen, what is your opinion?
+
+OWEN.--I should think, that by means of levers, the bust might be
+raised so as to leave a vacancy under it, and then the car might be
+introduced by some of the people, who were standing ready. After
+Caphany had been lodged on this, the car itself might be raised so
+as to get one of the rollers beneath, and if the same operation were
+performed at the back, he would be ready to be pulled up:--and then, if
+you please, Bernard, your palm-leaf ropes may come in use, to tie him
+to the carriage, and draw him along.
+
+MRS. A.--This is the very method Belzoni pursued, and when he had
+succeeded in getting it removed some yards from its original place,
+he sent an Arab to Cairo, with the intelligence that the bust had
+begun its journey to England. Our ingenious friend reminds me of a
+remark made by a celebrated writer, “that it is by small efforts
+frequently repeated, that man completes his greatest undertaking, to
+have attempted which, at _one_ effort would have baffled his ability,”
+for he had still many difficulties to encounter. When the Arabs found
+that they received money for the removal of a stone, they fancied that
+it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value
+ought not to be permitted to be taken away.
+
+However, the next day, and the next, and the next, Caphany advanced
+slowly forwards, and after many delays, owing to the softness of the
+sand, and to the desertion of some of the workmen, the fear of an
+inundation, &c. Belzoni had the gratification of seeing his young
+Memnon arrive on the banks of the Nile.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Thus, you see perseverance is generally crowned with success. But it
+yet remained to put the colossus in a boat; it had a long, long way to
+go down the Nile before it could arrive at Cairo, and Belzoni intended
+to stop there to show it to Mahomed Ali.
+
+But no boat is to be had. We must therefore leave the bust for the
+present, and accompany him, if you please, into one of the caves that
+are scattered about the mountains of Gournou, and are so celebrated
+for the quantities of mummies they contain: he wished to see a famous
+sarcophagus which was in one of them, and thither he went. You know
+that mummies are the bodies of dead persons, which have been wrapped
+up, in a great many bandages to preserve them, and a sarcophagus is a
+sort of tomb or coffin.[1]
+
+Two Arabs and an interpreter accompanied Belzoni. Previous to entering
+the cave, they took off the greater part of their clothes, and each
+having a candle, advanced through a cavity in the rock, which extended
+a considerable length in the mountain, sometimes high, sometimes very
+narrow, and sometimes so low that Belzoni and his attendants were
+obliged to creep on their hands and knees. Thus they went on till he
+perceived that they were at a great distance from the entrance, and
+the way was so intricate that he depended entirely on the two Arabs to
+conduct him out again. His situation now was not to be envied--you know
+Arabs are sometimes treacherous.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At length they arrived at a large place into which many other holes
+or cavities opened, and after some examination by the Arabs, they
+entered one of them which was very narrow, and continued downward for
+a long way, through a craggy passage, till they came where two other
+apertures led to the interior in a horizontal direction. One of the
+Arabs then said “This is the place.”
+
+This might well have startled Belzoni, for he was far from the light
+of day--in a dark craggy passage in the midst of a dismal mummy cave,
+and attended only by two Arabs and one other man!--However, the Arab
+only intended to point out this spot as being the situation of the
+sarcophagus, but Belzoni could not conceive how any thing so large as
+it had been described to him could have been taken through so small an
+aperture. He had no doubt but these recesses were burial places, as
+skulls and bones were strewed in all directions; but the sarcophagus
+could never have entered an aperture which even Belzoni himself could
+not penetrate. One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did the
+interpreter, and it was agreed that Belzoni and the other Arab should
+wait their return. They certainly proceeded to a great distance, for
+the light disappeared and only a murmuring sound from their voices
+could be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments a loud
+noise was heard, and the interpreter distinctly crying, “_O mon Dieu!
+mon Dieu! Je suis perdu!_”--a solemn silence ensued.
+
+Belzoni asked the Arab whether he had ever been in that place. He
+replied “_Never._”
+
+He judged it to be his best plan to return and procure help from the
+other Arabs. He wished to do so, but when he desired the man to show
+him the way out again, he said he did not know the road--he then
+called--no answer was returned--all was still as death--he watched for
+a long time--no candle appeared, and his own was almost burnt out.
+
+This was an adventure indeed, he began to think the Arabs had
+some design on his life and he endeavoured to find his way to the
+entrance?--It was a complete labyrinth; however, he managed to return
+through some of the passages to that place, where, as I told you just
+now, there were many cavities. Here, again he was puzzled; but at last,
+seeing one which appeared to be right, they proceeded through it a long
+way. Their candles appeared likely to leave them in the dark, and in
+that case their situation would have been yet more deplorable. He did
+not like to put out one of the candles to save it, for fear the other
+might be extinguished by some accident.
+
+At this time, supposing themselves near the outside of the tomb, what
+was their disappointment on finding there was no outlet, and that
+they must retrace their steps to that place whence they had entered
+this cavity. They strove to regain it, but were as perplexed as ever,
+and were both exhausted from the ascents and descents which they were
+obliged to pass. The Arab seated himself, but every moment of delay was
+dangerous.
+
+In going in Belzoni had thought to preserve a clue to the passage by
+putting a mark at the entrance of each cavity as he examined it, but
+unfortunately their candles were not long enough to last so many
+researches. However, hope, the cheering star of life, darts a ray of
+light through the thickest gloom, and, encouraged by it, they began
+their operations. On the second, attempt, when passing before a small,
+aperture, Belzoni fancied he heard something like the roaring of the
+sea at a distance. In consequence they entered this opening, and as
+they advanced the noise increased, till they could distinctly hear a
+number of voices all at one time.
+
+BERNARD.--What joy this must have given them!--as much joy as it gave
+Owen to hear papa’s voice in the wood, when he was lost whilst we were
+gathering nuts last summer--perhaps more; for I am sure I would rather
+be lost in a nice green wood than in an Egyptian mummy cave! Go on dear
+mamma.
+
+MRS. A.--At last they walked out, and to their no small surprise, the
+first person who presented himself was the interpreter. How he came
+to be there seemed astonishing. He told them, that in proceeding with
+the Arab along the passage below, they came to a pit which they did
+not see, and that the Arab fell into it, and in falling put out both
+candles. It was then that he cried out, “_Mon Dieu! je suis perdu!_” as
+he thought he also should have fallen into the pit; but, on raising his
+head, he saw at a great distance a glimpse of daylight, towards which
+he advanced, and thus arrived at a small aperture. He then scraped away
+some loose sand and stones, to widen the place where he came out, and
+went to give the alarm to the Arabs, who were at the other entrance.
+Being all concerned for the man who fell to the bottom of the pit, it
+was their noise Belzoni had heard in the cave. The place by which the
+interpreter had escaped was instantly widened, and in the confusion
+the Arabs did not regard letting Belzoni see that they were acquainted
+with _that_ entrance, and that it had lately been shut up. He was not
+long in detecting their scheme. They had intended to show him the
+sarcophagus without letting him see the way by which it might be taken
+out, and then to stipulate a price for the secret; as it was in reality
+but one hundred yards from the great entrance.
+
+With this view they had taken him that roundabout way. They paid dear
+for their intended deception. The man was taken out of the well, but
+so much hurt as to be lame ever after. Thus the Arabs defeated their
+own purpose, and proved that self-interest indeed is blind. When men
+stoop to the meanness of equivocation or deceit, especially in hopes
+of promoting their own good, they are artful but not wise; for, as we
+can only judge of the circumstances of the present moment, and cannot
+foresee consequences, it is very likely, as it proved with the Arabs,
+that our cunning will bring us into still greater difficulties. It is
+also certain to deprive us of confidence in the protecting care of
+providence, which, as I have often told you, is the greatest support
+and comfort in every trouble.
+
+Well, Bernard, do you regret Laura’s having taken a sketch in Egypt
+instead of having drawn the spokes of the wheels of your little cart?
+
+BERNARD.--Oh, no, mamma--never mind the spokes! I like your account
+very much. But where is Caphany all this time, with his palm-leaf-ropes?
+
+MRS. A.--Two guards were attending him by night and by day. Belzoni at
+length sent to Cairo for a boat, but as he knew it could not arrive for
+some time, he formed an enclosure of earth all around the bust, and
+spent the mean time in visiting various antiquities. His courage was
+not daunted by the peril he had passed through; many people would not
+have ventured into mummy caves at all events, again. But he preserved
+his mind from fear by not indulging it.
+
+OWEN.--Right! right! I like Belzoni, because he possessed real
+courage--did he not, mamma?--real fortitude! although he was a little
+terrified when alone with the Arab, in that dismal place, yet he did
+not let that fear prevent his undertaking other projects. When I
+am a man, mother, I mean to be a traveller, and to possess as much
+perseverance as _our Belzoni_!
+
+MRS. A.--Experience will teach you, my love, that it is not a very easy
+thing for one unaccustomed to an arduous life, to pass on a sudden from
+the midst of comfort and indulgence to one that is so irregular.
+
+Belzoni determined to go up the Nile into Nubia, and to leave the bust
+where it was during his absence. He sent James to Cairo, and discharged
+the carpenter, so that a small party only remained, and they set off
+from Esne, which is only a few miles from Thebes. There they landed
+just in time to see Khalil Bey, with whom they had become acquainted
+some time before in Soubra; and who was appointed to the government of
+the Upper Provinces from Esne to Assouan.
+
+He was just returned from an excursion into the country, was much
+pleased to see Belzoni, and received him very politely. Our traveller
+found him with his pipe and coffee, seated on a sofa made of earth, and
+covered with a fine carpet and satin cushions, surrounded by a great
+number of his chiefs, Cacheffs and Santons. Khalil Bey was an Albanian,
+but his mode of life was similar to that of the Egyptians in general,
+which I will describe to you in another chapter.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] At Peale’s New York Museum there is a mummy which was taken with
+the double coffin from one of the tombs discovered by Belzoni at
+Thebes. Part of the bandages having been removed, one side of the head
+and the shoulder of the body are exposed to view. It is thought to be
+now more than 2000 years old and believed to have been a person of
+great distinction, from the careful and expensive manner in which it
+is preserved. It is wrapped in sixty-three thicknesses of linen and
+inclosed in two coffins of sycamore wood ornamented with carving and
+hieroglyphics.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+    Egyptian Customs.--Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.--Visits
+    the Island of Elephantis.--Arrives at Ybsambul.--Attempts to
+    open its magnificent Temple.--Obliged for want of time and
+    money to give up the project.--Visits the little island of
+    Mainarty.--Danger on the Cataract.--Returns to Thebes.--Removal
+    of Young Memnon to Cairo.--Belzoni resides for a short time at
+    Rosetta.
+
+
+The Egyptian rises with the sun to enjoy the morning air; his favourite
+pipe and beverage are brought him, and he reclines at ease on his
+sofa. Slaves, with their arms crossed, remain silent at the far end
+of the chamber, with their eyes fixed on him, seeking to anticipate
+his smallest wants. His children, standing in his presence, unless he
+permits them to be seated, preserve every appearance of tenderness and
+respect: he gravely caresses them, gives them his blessing, and sends
+them back to the harem. He only questions, and they reply with modesty;
+they are not allowed that free intercourse with their parents which you
+enjoy. But custom, you know, reconciles us to every thing. The little
+natives of that country having never known the pleasures of social
+enjoyment and tender intercourse with their parents, of course cannot
+lament their loss.
+
+OWEN.--I think, mamma, that the Egyptian father appears to be the
+chief, the judge, and the pontiff of his family! But does he spend the
+rest of the day reclining on his sofa?
+
+MRS. A.--Breakfast ended, he transacts the business of his trade or
+office. When visiters come, he receives them without many compliments,
+but in an endearing manner. His equals are seated beside him, with
+their legs crossed; his inferiors kneel, and sit upon their heels.
+
+People of distinction are favoured with a place on a raised sofa,
+whence they overlook the company. When every person is placed, the
+slaves bring pipes and coffee, and set the perfume brazier in the
+middle of the chamber the air of which is impregnated with its odours,
+and afterwards present sweetmeats and sherbet.
+
+When the visit is almost ended, a slave, bearing a silver plate, on
+which precious essences are burning, goes round to the company; each,
+in turn, perfumes the beard, and then sprinkles rose-water on the head
+and hands. This being the last ceremony, the guests are permitted to
+retire.
+
+About noon the table is prepared, and the refreshments are brought in
+a large tray of tinned copper, and, though not great variety, there is
+great plenty. In the centre is generally a dish of rice cooked with
+poultry, and highly flavoured with spice and saffron. Round this are
+hashed meats, pigeons, stuffed cucumbers, and delicious melons and
+fruits. The guests seat themselves on a carpet round the table: a slave
+brings water in one hand, and a basin in the other, to wash. This is an
+indispensable ceremony, where each person puts his hand into the dish,
+and where the use of forks is unknown: it is repeated when the meal is
+ended. After dinner they retire to the harem, where they slumber some
+hours among their wives and children.... Such is the ordinary life of
+the Egyptians.
+
+This appears to be a monotonous way of spending their time; our
+intellectual pleasures are unknown to them. The days appear to be
+passed in repeating the same thing, in following the same customs,
+without a wish or a thought beyond. But we must remember, that nine
+months of the year the body is oppressed by heat; and that, as inaction
+under a temperate climate is painful, so here repose is enjoyment.
+Effeminate indolence is born with the Egyptian, grows as he grows,
+and descends with him to the grave. It influences his inclinations and
+governs his actions, and, far from daily wishing to obtain knowledge
+and enlarge the mental powers he sighs only for calm tranquillity.
+
+Now, we will go back to Belzoni; we left him at Esne, with Khalil Bey.
+After smoking a few pipes, and drinking as many cups of coffee, he left
+the Bey and returned to the boat. The following day they continued
+their voyage, and arrived at Edfu, where a temple, which might be
+compared with that of Tentyra, tempted our antiquary to land. Having
+been highly gratified here, they proceeded to Ombos: the ruins that
+are left at this place gave them a clear idea of what it has been. Our
+party proceeded, and, before their arrival at Assouan, landed on the
+western bank of the Nile. Here the country presented a more pleasing
+aspect than any they had passed since the Chained Mountains. Palm-trees
+in great abundance grow on each side of the river, and some cultivated
+spots of ground extend from the Nile to the mountains. The old town of
+Assouan stands on a hill, which overhangs the river; on its left is a
+forest of palm-trees, which hides the modern town; and on its right is
+the distant view of a granite mountain, that forms the first of the
+celebrated cataracts. The island of Elephantine seems to interfere
+with the barrenness of the western banks, and fills the ground with
+picturesque groups of various trees. Our travellers landed at the
+foot of a hill on the left of the Nile, and went to see the ruins of
+a convent on a high rock where they observed many grottoes, which had
+served as chapels for Christian worship. The convent is formed of
+several small arched cells, distinct from each other, and commands a
+view of the cataract and adjacent country, with the lower part of the
+Nile.
+
+When Belzoni returned to the boat, the sun was tinging the horizon with
+its last beams, and the shades of the western mountains had reached
+across the Nile and covered the town. He found the Aga (a person
+employed by the Turkish Government) and all his retinue seated on a
+mat, under a cluster of palm-trees, close to the water. Belzoni made
+application to him for a boat to carry him to Nubia, and presented to
+him some tobacco, soap, and coffee, which were gladly accepted: he was
+a selfish sort of person, and asked a great price for the use of the
+boat; engaging, however, that one should be ready in a day or two.
+
+The next morning Belzoni went to see the isle of Elephantine; he
+crossed the Nile in a wee-wee bark, made of the branches of palm-trees,
+fastened together with small cords, and covered on the outside with a
+mat, pitched all over. The principal object of attraction there was
+a temple of great antiquity, built on rocks of blue granite: on the
+western bank of the island are many trees of cassia and sycamore.
+Having gratified his curiosity, Belzoni returned; and, as the Aga’s
+boat was now in readiness, he determined to ascend the Nile to the
+second cataract, during the interval required for the arrival of the
+boat from Cairo, which was to convey the colossal bust. They therefore
+embarked, and, on the following morning, long before the rising of the
+sun, Belzoni stood at the stern, waiting for its first beams to unveil
+the beautiful island of Philoe; and he had much gratification in taking
+a hasty view of its ruins, without stopping to examine them minutely,
+as he hoped to return that way; he, however, observed several blocks
+of stones, and an obelisk, which he thought might be easily removed.
+Philoe is in the middle of the Nile, somewhat south of Assouan.
+
+As the wind was favourable, they again set sail, and arrived in the
+course of a few days at Deir, which is the capital of Lower Nubia. This
+town consists of several groups of houses built of earth intermixed
+with stones, and covered with reeds. Their height is generally about
+eight or ten feet: the height of the parlour we are in is between eight
+and ten feet. At the foot of the sloping and rocky hill is a small
+temple; but Belzoni could not go to see it, as he observed that they
+were closely watched, the reason for which was soon apparent.
+
+Belzoni went immediately to Hassan Cacheff, who received him with an
+air of suspicion, and wanted to know his business. He told him he
+ascended the Nile merely to seek for antiquities, and that he wished to
+proceed as far as the Shellal, or second cataract. This, the Cacheff
+said, was impossible; for the people in the upper country were at war
+with each other. He then ordered his mat to be brought to him, seated
+himself close before the door of his house, and invited Belzoni to sit
+also. The first question he asked him was, whether he had any coffee.
+Belzoni replied, that they had a little on board for their own use, but
+that he should have half of it. He next asked for soap, and received
+the same reply. Then he inquired if they had any tobacco: Belzoni said
+that he had a few pipes, and they would smoke together. This pleased
+Hassan Cacheff. The next question was, whether he had any powder; and
+the answer he received was, that they had very little, and could not
+spare any. At this, Hassan laughed, and putting his hands on Belzoni’s
+shoulder, said, “You are English, and can make powder wherever you go.”
+
+By this time, the tobacco was brought, and the operation of smoking
+began. Hassan still persisted in it that Belzoni’s sailors would not
+advance any farther; for they were afraid, he said, to go into the
+upper country. Our friend, unwilling to give up his point, used every
+means of entreaty; and at length frankly told him, that, if he would
+allow him to pursue his journey, he would make him a very handsome
+present of a fine looking-glass. Hassan replied, “We will talk of this
+to-morrow;” and the indefatigable Belzoni returned to the boat.
+
+A looking-glass was a novelty to the Cacheff; Belzoni, therefore went
+again to him early in the morning, and told him that it was ready for
+his acceptance, provided he would give him a letter of recommendation
+to his brother at Ybsambul, which at last he did, for Hassan thought
+his looking-glass a great treasure. The reason why Belzoni happened
+to take such a thing with him, was, that, previous to his departure
+from Cairo, he had taken care to obtain all the information possible
+respecting the country of Nubia, from the natives who came to that city
+with dates and charcoal; and from them he learned, that a looking-glass
+and a few beads would be as valuable in their eyes as gold and diamonds
+in ours.
+
+The Cacheff’s looking-glass was about twelve inches square, and made
+a great impression on the people there, who had never seen so large a
+one before. The Cacheff was never tired of admiring his dark coloured
+countenance, and all the attendants behind him strove to get a peep at
+their own tawny beauty.
+
+Belzoni, entering the boat again, proceeded down the Nile till he
+arrived at Ybsambul, where two temples presented attractions. I must
+describe them, because they were the objects of another voyage up the
+Nile. In the front of the minor temple were six colossal figures thirty
+feet high, and hewn out of the rock; as was also the large temple,
+which had one figure of an enormous size, with the head and shoulders
+only projecting out of the sand, and most beautifully executed. On
+the upper part or frieze of the temple was a line of hieroglyphics,
+which covered the whole front, and above this a range of figures,
+in a sitting posture, as large as life. The sand on the north side,
+accumulated behind on the rock above the temple, had gradually
+descended towards its front, choked the entrance, and buried two-thirds
+of it. When Belzoni approached this temple, the hope he had formed of
+entering it vanished at once; for the heaps of sand were such as to
+make it appear an impossibility ever to reach the door. He ascended
+a hill of sand at the upper part of the temple, and there found the
+head of a hawk projecting out of the sand only to its neck. From the
+situation of this figure, he concluded that it was over the door; but
+how to get to that door was the grand difficulty, for you know it was
+necessary to remove the sand in such a direction, that it might fall
+off from the front of the door, but in doing this, the sand from above
+would continue to fall on the place whence that below was removed, and
+thus render it an almost endless task. Besides, the natives were like
+wild people, and knew nothing of working for money; indeed, they were
+ignorant of money altogether.
+
+All these difficulties seemed such insurmountable objects that
+they almost deterred Belzoni from the thought of proceeding; yet
+perseverance, stimulated by hope, suggested to him such means, that
+at last, after much exertion, and two voyages thither, he had the
+satisfaction of entering the great temple of Ybsambul.
+
+By calculating, Belzoni supposed the door I mentioned to be
+thirty-five feet below the sand; and having taken a proper measurement
+of the front of the temple, he found that if he could persuade the
+people to work with persevering steadiness, he might succeed in the
+undertaking.
+
+Wishing first to apply to the Cacheff of Ybsambul to obtain his good
+will if possible, he did not examine the smaller temple that night, but
+followed the road between the rocks of which it is hewn, and arrived
+on the banks of the Nile, where they embarked, and soon landed at
+the village. A group of people who were assembled under a grove of
+palm-trees seemed somewhat surprised at the arrival of a stranger.
+Belzoni desired to see Osseyn Cacheff, telling them that he had a
+letter for him from his brother, the Cacheff of Deir.
+
+He for some time received no answer, but at last was told that he who
+sat there was Daoud his son. This was a man about fifty years of age,
+clad in a light blue gown, with a white rag on his head as a turban,
+seated upon an old mat on the ground, a long sword and a gun by his
+side, with about twenty men surrounding him, who were well armed with
+swords, spears and shields.
+
+Daoud Cacheff begged to know what business had brought Belzoni there?
+He replied that he had a letter from his uncle directed to his father,
+and that he came into that country in search of ancient stones. Daoud
+laughed, and said that a few months before he had seen another man who
+came from Cairo in search of treasure, and took away a great deal of
+gold in his boat, and that Belzoni came for the same purpose, not to
+take stones. What could he have to do with stones, if it were not to
+procure gold from them?
+
+Belzoni told Daoud that the stones he wished to take away were broken
+pieces belonging to the old Pharaoh people, and that his motive for
+coming in search of them was to know whether our ancestors came from
+that country. He then asked where he meant to go in search of these
+stones. Belzoni said, that the place in the rock had a door, and that
+by removing the sand they might enter the temple, and should perhaps
+find many stones there, and accordingly proposed to have it opened.
+After some difficulty, he managed to convince the people of the value
+of money, for they had never heard of such a thing, having been
+accustomed to exchange various articles, and Daoud at length consented
+to find workmen, provided Belzoni would give them each two piastres a
+day, which he consented to do.
+
+Daoud was rather more reasonable than his uncle Hassan, who required so
+many presents before he would allow Belzoni to continue his voyage. But
+there now remained consent to be obtained from Osseyn Cacheff, Daoud’s
+father. This was the greatest difficulty; he lived at Eshke, a mile and
+a half up the Nile. To secure his favour (for favour in this land may
+often be procured by bribes,) Belzoni sent forwards to him some rice,
+sugar, and tobacco; and received on board in the evening some sour
+milk and warm thin cake of dhourra bread.
+
+Dhourra is the common grain of Egypt. The bread is baked on a flat
+stone raised at each corner so as to admit a fire under it, the paste
+which is soft being laid on it, spreads in a minute over the stone; as
+soon as one cake is baked another is done in the same manner, and so
+on, and this dhourra bread forms the general food of the country.
+
+They went the next morning to the residence of the Cacheff at Eshke,
+and were told that he was from home, but would return in a few days.
+This occasioned some disappointment; but as Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni did
+not wish to return to Ybsambul without having had an interview with
+him, they went on towards the second Cataract, and about nine, two
+mornings after they had left Eshke, they made for the shore as near as
+possible to the last cultivated land on the left, at a place called
+Wady Halfa.
+
+A few of the natives came to look at the strangers, and at Belzoni’s
+request they willingly brought asses for them to ride to the Cataract;
+and now, Bernard, place yourself on your own little Smiler, and fancy
+yourself one of the party. Proceed to the Cataract, and take several
+views in different directions. Mount the rocks, and take a survey of
+the wide sandy deserts. Observe the wild antelopes that are skipping
+about on the crags of the few black cliffs which project here and
+there, and having enjoyed the grand prospect afforded by this Cataract,
+and as the sun again is sinking beneath the horizon, return to the
+little bark. From thence, you may accompany Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni, who
+immediately crossed for the isle of Mainarty, where they arrived at
+dusk. They saw fires and people at a distance, but on landing could not
+find any one. The huts were left with all they had, which consisted
+only of dry dates, and a kind of paste made of the same, which they
+kept in large vases of clay baked in the sun, and covered with baskets
+made of palm-leaves; a baking stove, and a mat to sleep upon, comprised
+the whole of their furniture. They little expected visiters at such
+a time, you may suppose they were honest themselves, as they did not
+suspect their neighbours.
+
+MRS. A.--The whole of the island is about an eighth of a mile in length
+and half as much in breadth. The whole settlement consisted of four men
+and seven women, with two or three children. They have no communication
+with the main land, except when the water is low, for at any other
+time, the current, being just under the Cataract, is so rapid that it
+is impossible to ford it, and boats never go to this island. They are
+poor but happy, knowing nothing of the enticing luxuries of the world,
+and resting content with what Providence supplies, as the reward of
+their industry. They have a few sheep and goats, which supply them with
+milk, and the few spots of land they have are all cultivated, producing
+a little dhourra, which you know is the principal food they require.
+The wool of their sheep they spin into yarn; they wind the thread
+round little stones, and thus suspend them to a long stick fixed in a
+horizontal position between two trees, to form a warp; and by passing
+another thread alternately between these, fabricate a kind of coarse
+cloth, with which they make their dress.
+
+It was quite dark when Belzoni found this poor and truly happy people.
+They had lighted a fire to make their bread, and the light of this
+fire directed him to the spot where they were. I suppose they had been
+terrified by having seen him at a distance, for they were all hid in a
+hole, under some ruins of an old castle, which stands on the south side
+of the island, and when he approached them, the women set up a loud
+scream. A person who was with him, a native of Nubia, could talk their
+language, and managed to pacify them, but could not entice more than
+one man out of the hole.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Their fear was owing to some depredations committed by the robbers of
+Wady Halfa a few years before, who at low water forded over to the
+island, and did all the injury that could be done to such people.
+The strangers assured them that they were not like the robbers of
+Wady Halfa, but only came to get some one to show them the way to the
+Cataract. At this they were more alarmed than ever, and said that it
+never happened that boats passed higher than Wady Halfa,--it being
+impossible to proceed farther, owing to the quantity of rocky islands.
+At last, however, they prevailed upon two of the men to accompany
+them the following morning, and pilot them towards the Cataract as far
+as the boat could go.
+
+According to agreement, they went on board, and with a strong north
+wind advanced in their little bark until they found themselves so
+tossed about by the different currents and eddies, as to prevent a
+farther progress; and at the same time so situated, that they could
+not return back for fear of being driven against some of the rocks
+which threatened them on each side. They were in a deplorable situation
+again. Unable to go backwards or forwards--but no deceitful Arabs were
+with them this time.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+They were confined to one spot for about an hour. Sometimes they had
+a rapid start for a hundred yards, then, all at once, were stopped
+and turned round in spite of all their efforts, and of the north wind
+which blew very hard. At last they were caught on a sudden in one of
+the eddies of water, and driven against a sharp rock concealed about
+two feet below the surface. The shock was dreadful: it is impossible
+to describe Belzoni’s emotions, for he thought at the moment that the
+boat was split in two--and the object of his tenderest solicitude was
+on board--for her, he saw no mode of escape--had he been alone, he
+might have swam on shore.--However, his trust in the protecting care
+of Providence did not forsake him--they found that no harm was done,
+and that by crossing the rock they were on, they might reach the other
+side of the river. They did so as quickly as possible, and landed,
+rejoicing in the thought of the danger they had escaped. They were
+obliged to pursue their route on foot; carrying with them provisions
+and water, they proceeded on the rocks, over a plain of sand and
+stones, until they arrived at one called Aspir, which is the highest in
+the neighbourhood of the Cataract, and commands a complete view of the
+falls.
+
+And now our lovers of nature were well repaid by the prospect which
+was before them. Belzoni says that it was a truly magnificent scene.
+The several thousand islands, of various forms and sizes, with
+as many different falls of water, running rapidly onward, whilst
+counter-currents returned with equal velocity; the blackness of the
+stones; the verdant foliage of the trees, scattered on the islets,
+intermixed with the white bubbling froth of the numerous cascades,
+formed a picture neither to be described nor delineated.
+
+Having been thus compensated for their venturous excursion, our
+travellers returned by a little rout to Ybsambul, where are the temples.
+
+Belzoni went immediately to Osseyn Cacheff’s son Daoud, who presented
+to him a letter from his father, and sent for the men who were
+selected for the work. These people were complete savages, and wholly
+unacquainted with any kind of labour. However, according to direction,
+they began their undertaking in such a manner, that the sand would fall
+off from the centre of the front of the temple, where the door was
+supposed to be.
+
+They had no spades to dig away the sand; but used a long stick with a
+cross piece of wood at the end, at each extremity of which was a rope.
+One man would draw the cross stick back, and another would pull it
+forwards. They found it very useful in clearing away the sand, and as
+it was the first day of their enterprise, they proceeded better than
+Belzoni had expected; all their thoughts and talk were on the quantity
+of gold, pearls and jewels they should find in the place: the hope of
+which acted as a stimulus for them to proceed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Thus they went on for some days, but as they had not before known the
+value of money, so now their wish to obtain it knew no bounds: they
+continually wished to procure more than their employer allowed them;
+the other people also began to desire it, and came in such numbers,
+that had he wished it he would have found it difficult to supply them
+all. Their desire to see the inside of the temple, and to plunder what
+it might contain, increased, and they gave Belzoni to understand,
+that all that was there was their own property, and that the treasure
+should be for themselves. He in vain endeavoured to assure them, that
+he expected to find nothing but stones, and wanted no treasure; they
+still persisted, that if he took away the stones, the treasure was in
+them, and that if he could make a drawing or likeness of them, he could
+extract the treasure from _it_ also, without their perceiving it. They
+certainly had great confidence in Belzoni’s ability, as well as an
+uncommon degree of superstition.
+
+Some proposed, that if any figure was discovered, it should be broken
+before he carried it away, to examine the inside. Thus Belzoni had
+no encouragement to proceed;--it was not of much use to take so much
+pains, only in the end to gratify the selfish curiosity of those
+savages,--and according to this he might not make drawings, much less
+take away any statue or any thing else that might be found. I think,
+under such circumstances, it will hardly lessen our ideas of his
+perseverance and patience if he should give up opening this temple. It
+would be spending so many days to no purpose.
+
+From the slow progress, or rather from the immense quantity of sand
+accumulated together, Belzoni perceived that his work would require
+more time than he could spare at that period before its completion;
+still he would have persevered had not another and a stronger motive
+presented itself, which was the want of that very article which a
+few days before was despised and unknown, and now he found that he
+absolutely could not proceed without it.--It was money which, even
+here, had shown its usual power among mankind of exciting avarice and a
+selfish disposition.
+
+OWEN.--And here the sentence I repeated in my Latin lesson this morning
+is just _a propos_, mamma, “the love of money increases as the money
+itself increases.”
+
+MRS. A.--Before leaving it however, Belzoni wished to ascertain how
+near they were to the door, and for the purpose he had some water
+brought up from the Nile, and poured down close to where the door
+should be. This would stop the sand from running until he had made
+a hole deep enough to perceive whether they were near the door. He
+supposed, in the first place, that the sand was about thirty-five
+feet in thickness, and they had removed so much sand as to uncover
+twenty feet of the temple, but from the hole that was made, Belzoni
+perceived that it would require a longer time to reach the door than
+he could stay, and more money than he could afford, although the
+colossal statues above the door were by this time completely exposed.
+He therefore obtained a promise from the Cacheff that no one should
+touch the place till his return (which would be in a few months,) and
+contenting himself with putting a mark where the sand was before his
+operation had commenced, and taking a sketch of the exterior of the
+temple, he quitted it, with a firm resolution of returning some time to
+accomplish its opening.
+
+EMILY.--Well, mother, he acted both prudently and judiciously; but I
+should have been afraid lest the selfish people who had worked for him
+should have opened it in the mean time. However, where did he go next,
+and when did he return to Young Memnon, who had been staying this long
+period at Thebes, banked up with earth and palm-leaf ropes?
+
+MRS. A.--They set off in the boat, and descending the Nile rapidly,
+arrived in a few days at Shellal, or the first Cataract. When they
+reached the Isle of Philoe, Belzoni took particular notice of the small
+obelisk which he hoped at some future time to bring to England, and he
+sent for the Aga of Assouan.
+
+Assouan is just on the opposite side of the Nile to that of the
+Cataract--and you remember the selfish Aga, who asked such a sum for
+the use of his boat: Belzoni sent for him to persuade him to use his
+interest in having the obelisk taken down the Cataract: but this, for
+want of a boat, could not be effected that season. I mentioned the
+obelisk to you before: it was formed of a granite, twenty-two feet in
+length and two in breadth, so that it would want a pretty large boat to
+convey it.
+
+Belzoni took possession of it, giving the Aga four dollars to pay a
+guard for it till his return. The next day they proceeded to Assouan by
+land. On their arrival they were informed there were no boats to take
+them to Esne, so there they were obliged to wait.
+
+What we cannot help, we must of course endure. Our enterprising friend
+often found it so, and, though he no doubt was anxious to return to
+Thebes, and to see his young Memnon once more, yet that the time might
+not be lost, he amused himself during this period by taking another
+tour in Elephantine.
+
+When he returned to Assouan, no boat had yet made its appearance. The
+delay was tedious; however, nothing could be done but to submit to it.
+
+Belzoni was seated one evening under a grove of palm-trees, eating some
+rice soup with the Aga, when an Arab came and whispered in the ear of
+the latter, as if he had something of great importance to communicate.
+
+The Aga rose, though his dinner was not finished, and went away with
+the air of a man of great business. Half an hour after he returned,
+accompanied by two other persons of distinction and an old man. They
+all seated themselves around him, and after introducing the affair with
+some caution, asked Belzoni whether he should like to purchase a large
+piece of diamond. It is true he was no diamond merchant: however, he
+told the Aga, that if the article were good, and they could agree, he
+would buy it, but that it was necessary for him to see it first. The
+Aga said that the piece had been found by one of the natives of that
+place, and, as he was not in want of money, it had been preserved in
+the family for many years. The original proprietor being now dead, his
+successor wished to dispose of it.
+
+Belzoni requested to see it, and therefore, retired with them to some
+distance, out of the way of the people; when the old man, with great
+solemnity took a small wooden box from a pocket in his leather belt. In
+this was a paper which he unfolded: after that, two or three others,
+till at last he opened his _sanctum sanctorum_. Belzoni took its
+contents in his hands with no small degree of expectation, but alas!
+how did he look, when he perceived that this great treasure, which had
+been so long carefully stored, was only part of the stopple of a common
+glass cruet, of the size of a hazel-nut, with two or three little
+gilt flowers upon it! All his hopes vanished: and as the others were
+attentively regarding his motions, they could not fail to observe the
+disappointment marked in his countenance, and their hopes vanished too.
+When they were told it was only a piece of glass, the words affected
+their minds like the unhappy tidings of some great misfortune; they
+walked off in solemn silence, not without giving him an inquiring look
+to learn whether he was really in earnest. But he also shared their
+disappointment, and the smile on his face could give them no hopes.
+
+No boat was yet to be seen. Belzoni therefore proposed bespeaking two
+camels, and travelling to Esne by land; when this resolution was known,
+a boat was soon in readiness, and he discovered that the whole delay
+was a fraud to detain him at Assouan, several little barks having been
+concealed in different places. Our travellers had a rapid and agreeable
+voyage down the Nile, and reached Luxor, just by Thebes, in safety.
+
+The Cacheff had procured a boat to take Caphany to Cairo, and when
+they arrived at Thebes, they found it fastened to the bank where the
+colossal head was. Belzoni met with much opposition when he wished to
+remove this great bust; some thought that it would overbalance the
+boat, and consequently be lost in the Nile; others wished to retain
+it, supposing it contained gold; and others alledged that it was
+impossible to put it into the boat, as the bank was more than fifteen
+feet above the level of the water, which had retired at least a hundred
+feet from it. His vexation was great, in thinking that all his efforts
+and exertion in bringing the head to the Nile were to no purpose, and
+that it would never reach England, as the opposition was so powerful.
+However, perseverance in laudable pursuits, as I have often told you,
+will reward all your labour, and produce effects even beyond your
+calculation.
+
+With some trouble, Belzoni collected a hundred and thirty men, and,
+under his superintendance, they began to make a causeway, by which to
+convey the head down to the river-side. This was finished the next day,
+and the bust brought to the edge of the slope ready to be embarked.
+
+It required some thought to manage this, for it was no easy undertaking
+to put a piece of granite, of such bulk and weight, on board a boat,
+that if it received the weight on one side, would immediately upset.
+
+The Egyptians could furnish no mechanical powers to render the
+operation more practicable. It was to be done without the smallest help
+of that kind, or even a single tackle, and with poles and ropes
+only.
+
+LAURA.--The people there know scarcely any thing of mechanics; their
+utmost sagacity reaches only to pulling a rope, or sitting on the
+extremity of a lever, as a counterpoise or balance.
+
+BERNARD.--Will you tell me, dear Laura, what you mean by a lever?
+
+LAURA.--A lever, my love, is the foundation of all the mechanical
+powers. It is nothing more than a strait stick, or bar of wood or iron.
+Did you never read, in “Sandford and Merton,” about the snowball which
+rolled along with so much ease, by using two long sticks, which were
+called levers? I will read it to you and explain all that you want to
+know at some other time, but we will now hear how Belzoni contrived to
+get the head down that steep bank.
+
+MRS. A.--The causeway was made gradually sloping to the edge of the
+water, close to the boat, and with the four poles a bridge was formed
+from the bank into the centre of the boat, so that when the weight bore
+on the bridge, it pressed only on the middle of the boat; and this
+slender bridge rested partly on the causeway, partly on the side of the
+boat, and partly on the centre of it.
+
+On the opposite side of the boat, Belzoni put some mats well filled
+with straw. A few Arabs were stationed in it, and some at each side,
+with a lever of palm-wood, as there was nothing else. At the middle of
+the bridge he placed a sack filled with sand, that in case the colossus
+should run too fast into the boat, it might be stopped. He also took a
+precaution to make it descend gradually.--You know if they had given
+it a push, and it had gone _at once_, it would have overbalanced the
+boat, and perhaps drowned the Arabs: so behind the colossus, Belzoni
+had the trunk of a palm-tree firmly planted, round which a rope was
+twisted, and then fastened to the car, so that it might descend gently.
+He set a lever at work on each side, and at the same time that the men
+in the boat were pulling, others were slackening the ropes, and others
+moving the rollers as the colossus advanced.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Thus it descended very, very slowly, from the mainland to the causeway,
+when it sunk a good deal, as the causeway was made of fresh earth.
+However, this was better than if it had run too fast towards the water.
+Belzoni thought so too, for if it had fallen into the Nile, it would
+have been not only a mortification to himself but a disappointment to
+many antiquaries in England, who were longing for its arrival. However
+it went safely on board.
+
+The Arabs who were of opinion that it would go to the bottom of the
+river, or crush the boat, were all attention, as if anxious to know the
+result, as well as to learn how the operation was to be performed. When
+the owner of the boat, who considered it as lost, witnessed Belzoni’s
+success, and saw the huge piece of stone, as he called it, safely on
+board, he came forward and heartily congratulated him. Belzoni was
+rejoiced to see his long anticipated project thus crowned with success.
+
+The party arrived at Cairo the following month. Thence they proceeded
+to Rosetta, which is on the western branch of the Nile, and near its
+mouth. The colossus was landed there, and as tackle was to be had,
+of which Belzoni was destitute before, as well as proper workmen, it
+was rendered quite an easy operation, and conveyed in safety to the
+Bashaw’s magazine, there to await its embarkation for England.
+
+Mr. Belzoni became acquainted with a gentleman at Rosetta, who
+received him into his house in a most hospitable manner, and was much
+interested in his affairs, feeling the pleasure of a true Englishman
+in seeing one of the most finished articles of Egyptian art ready to
+be embarked for his native country. And here we will for the present
+take leave of our friend, wishing that the indefatigable zeal displayed
+in all he undertakes may be rewarded with equal success: and you, my
+dear children, whenever you want a stimulus to patient, persevering
+industry, think of Belzoni!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+    Bernard’s perseverance.--Belzoni’s second Voyage.--Rapid
+    Journey from Minieh to Thebes.--Superb Temple at Carnac.--Works
+    carried on both at Gournou and Carnac.--Mummy Caves.--Belzoni’s
+    object in entering them.--Manufactures of the ancient
+    Egyptians.--Their Idols.--Curious Habitations at Gournou.--He
+    visits Ybsambul.--Opens the Temple.--Returns highly gratified
+    to Thebes.
+
+
+Laura was a botanist. She loved to ramble in search of wild flowers,
+and she frequently did so before breakfast. A few mornings after the
+preceding conversation, the sun arose with uncommon splendour; but the
+glistening dewdrops moistened every blade of grass, and bespangled
+every leaf. Laura, instead of wandering in her favourite fields,
+proceeded through the little green gate of the shrubbery, and followed
+a winding gravel path that brought her to the stable-yard, in which
+were the children’s gardens. Here she found Bernard, busily employed
+with his spade: carefully replacing flowers that were trampled down,
+trimming them and cleaning them, and planting them anew; the border
+which he had cultivated with so much delight, was all in confusion and
+disorder; the cherry-tree, from which he had promised himself so much
+pleasure, in presenting its first fruits to his mother, was pulled down
+from the palisades against which it had been trained; his little crop
+of wheat was levelled to the ground;--the young liburnums were eaten;
+the rose-tree was broken; all was a scene of desolation and confusion!
+Yet the persevering little Bernard did not complain; he smiled and
+looked at Laura; Laura smiled also, for she guessed what thoughts were
+passing in his mind.
+
+Our young readers may wish to know what can have been the cause of all
+this disturbance. The little gardens, as we have said, were in the
+stable-yard. A door that led into the stable, had, unintentionally,
+been left open; Smiler had taken the liberty of walking out, and had
+been tempted by a pendant branch of Bernard’s cherry-tree to trample
+upon that very spot where his little master had bestowed so much
+pains, and in which he had passed many a happy hour, toiling in the
+heat of his brow. Laura watched her brother. He smoothed the ground
+with the little rake his papa had given him; he dug a hole, and placed
+his rosebush afresh, only first cutting off the broken stalks; he then,
+with the utmost patience, and without uttering one complaint, assisted
+the gardener to train the poor cherry-tree in its former station,
+holding the little tin tacks, and the shreds of list, as James held his
+hand to receive them; and James, the gardener, and Bernard together,
+after working for two hours, had the satisfaction of beholding the
+garden restored to neatness and order.
+
+Bernard came in to breakfast. His cheeks glowed with a brighter red
+than usual; his countenance beamed cheerfulness and joy; he seemed in
+perfect good humour with himself, and with every one around him, and
+every one appeared in good humour with him; this was the effect of his
+industry.
+
+His mother, who had heard from Laura how the morning had been passed,
+said,
+
+“Well my love, you have proved the truth of my assertion, that
+perseverance, exerted in laudable undertakings, will reward all our
+labour, and produce effects beyond our fondest hopes!”
+
+“Ah, mamma!” said Bernard, “it was Belzoni who first taught me to exert
+it! You know I saw what _he_ gained by perseverance, so I thought I
+would follow his example, and not give way to despair. You do not
+regret having given me that account of Belzoni, do you mamma?”
+
+“No, indeed, my dear boy!” replied the fond and affectionate mother;
+“I am delighted in witnessing the first fruits of my story; and having
+thus profited by the first account of our enterprising traveller, you
+are well entitled to another.” A tear glistened in Bernard’s eyes as
+his mother bestowed this well-merited praise.
+
+He despatched his basin of milk: the breakfast things were soon
+removed; the maps were once more laid on the table, and Mrs. A.
+commenced her narrative of Belzoni’s second excursion up the Nile.
+
+In 1817 a boat was prepared, well covered with mats, and closely lined
+all round, with a curtain to the door, to prevent the dust or wind from
+penetrating the cabin.
+
+Belzoni and his little party embarked from Boolac.
+
+Antiquities had touched a chord in Belzoni’s heart: they were the
+chief objects of his researches. He now more particularly wished to
+visit the temple of Ybsambul, and to make preparations for opening it;
+when that was accomplished, he intended to return to the Valley of
+Beban el Malook, and to endeavour to enter the tombs of the kings, and
+afterwards to visit the Pyramids.
+
+You recollect the temple I mention. Belzoni had just made a hole in
+the sand, when he left it before, and had discovered that he had then
+neither time nor money for exploring it. We may hope he will succeed
+now, and that the men will behave better next time.
+
+Their departure from Boolac was attended with a contrary wind, which
+caused their progress up the Nile to be so slow, that in four days they
+only reached Tabeen; a little village on the eastern bank opposite
+Dajior, in reaching which they passed by Cairo, and by several pyramids.
+
+It was at this village, Bernard, that Belzoni drew a view of the
+distant Pyramids, from which sketch Laura was taking hers the other
+evening, at the time you thought them so uninteresting.
+
+BERNARD.--My opinion is changed now, mamma:--it is best not to form a
+judgment too soon,--is it not? I quite love the name of that little
+village: I do not call it insignificant, for Laura’s drawing led to my
+knowledge of Belzoni. How long did he stop there, mother?
+
+MRS. A.--When the sketch was taken, they proceeded to Meimond, where
+their attention was attracted by the cheerful sound of a tambourine, by
+which they concluded that there was an Arabic feast in the village, and
+leaving their comfortable bark, they went on shore.
+
+They were not much gratified by what they found, and therefore,
+returning to their boat, went on to Minieh, which is about half way
+between Cairo and Thebes.
+
+It was necessary for them to land there, on account of seeing Hamet
+Bey, who has command over all the boats on the river, and I dare say
+thinks himself as great as any admiral on the sea!
+
+Belzoni found this mighty commander sitting on a wooden bench, and
+attended by two or three of his sailors; and here he also saw two
+Copts, who had been sent by Mr. Drouetti up the Nile, in search of
+antiquities.
+
+EMILY.--In search of antiquities, mamma, like Belzoni! then I suppose
+there will be some emulation between them, and I am glad of it; but I
+should like to know who this Mr. Drouetti is; the Copts, we already
+know, are descended from the first Egyptians who became Christians.
+
+OWEN.--I think, Emily, it was very unfortunate for Belzoni that he did
+meet with these men; how can you tell but they may go to Ybsambul and
+finish removing the sand, and so spoil all the nice plans that I have
+in my head.
+
+MRS. A.--Mr. Drouetti was the Ex-French Consul in Alexandria, and Owen
+is right in supposing Belzoni would rather have avoided these men;
+especially as he learned that they wished to arrive at Thebes before
+him, and to purchase all that the Arabs had found during the preceding
+season. This they could do because their mode of travelling on asses
+or horses was much more speedy than the progress of the boat could
+possibly be, and thus Belzoni would have no chance of regaining the
+spot of ground where you recollect he found the statues.
+
+Upon the plain at Thebes, where, I told you, “the traveller finds
+himself on every side among wonders.”
+
+He was not long considering how to act, and resolved to set off
+immediately by land, and, by travelling day and night, was in hopes of
+reaching the place before them. Accordingly a horse and an ass were got
+ready: and taking with him his Greek servant, he left Mr. Beechey (the
+young gentleman who accompanied him on this journey) to come up the
+Nile at his leisure.
+
+Mrs. Belzoni was left at Cairo, with the British Chancellor. Now I will
+tell you with what expedition this rapid journey was completed.
+
+Our travellers set off at midnight, and forced marches brought them the
+next morning to Manfatout. From this place they hastened without delay,
+and arrived at Siout before daylight. At sunrise they mounted again,
+and arrived before dark at Tahta. Here they rested in a convent for
+four hours, started afresh by the light of the moon, and reached Girgeh
+in the night.
+
+Perhaps you think it must have been pleasant to ride upon a donkey by
+moonlight, when the moon was just peeping from behind some dark clouds,
+and all around was silent and still.
+
+They resumed their journey at one o’clock in the morning, reached
+Farshiout at noon, and, after a delay of four hours, in consequence of
+not finding a fresh horse immediately, arrived at night at a village
+near Badjoura. Here they rested two hours, and arrived at Geneh at
+three. Having dined, they proceeded onward, rested a couple of hours at
+Benut at night, and reached Luxor the following noon.
+
+It is hardly possible to form an idea of the difficulties a person
+must undergo, travelling through a tract entirely destitute of the
+necessaries of life, and sleeping only for eleven hours during five
+days!
+
+The fathers of the convents at some of the towns through which he
+passed afforded him great accommodation. They provided him with beasts
+and provisions for the road immediately on his arrival; and, in places
+where there was no convent, he went to the house of the Sheik el Balet,
+where travellers of all sorts assemble at night: they are somewhat like
+our inns, but without our accommodations. Indeed, he was so fatigued
+and stiff, that any place of rest was acceptable to him. The bare earth
+generally afforded him a bed, and when he could procure a mat, it was
+a luxury. One night, he was refreshed with a few pieces of sugar-cane,
+which, after passing the torch where the juice had been extracted,
+were become pretty soft, and afforded a tolerable bed. Sugar-canes are
+common there, and Belzoni was sometimes regaled with them as a dessert,
+after a repast of bread and onions.
+
+No time was to be lost: so he now began to be very busy. He applied
+to the Cacheff, who gave orders for him to be furnished with men, who
+should do whatever he pleased. Whilst the works at Carnac were going
+on, Belzoni visited the superb ruins of the temple at that place. In
+a distant view of them, nothing can be seen but the towering propylæ,
+high portals and obelisks, which, projecting above the various groups
+of lofty palm-trees, present a magnificent spectacle. But when he
+entered the avenue of sphinxes, which leads to the great temple, he was
+inspired with equal solemnity and awe.
+
+EMILY.--I do not like to interrupt you, dear mother: but will you be
+so good as to tell me what these sphinxes are, and why they filled
+Belzoni’s mind with solemnity and awe? I thought that a sphinx was only
+a sort of moth; and I do not believe that a moth would fill me with
+astonishment! What is meant by an Avenue of sphinxes?
+
+MRS. A.--The worship of the ancient Egyptians, my dear girl, was
+remarkable for superstition. They worshipped idols of wood and stone;
+and these sphinxes represent lions with heads of rams, the symbols
+of strength and innocence, the power and purity of their gods. It
+was their enormous size, and the idea of what they were intended to
+represent, that struck Belzoni as he approached the avenue. He had
+never before entered it alone, without being interrupted by the noise
+of the Arabs, who seldom leave the traveller an instant; and the
+colossal and other gigantic statues, obelisks, immense colonnades, the
+pillars of which are some twenty and some thirty feet in circumference;
+paintings, which still retain an incomparable brilliancy; granite and
+marble lavished in the structure; stones of astonishing dimensions
+forming the magnificent roofs; and thousands of prostrate columns which
+literally strew the ground, made him remain a long time motionless
+with rapture; and he more than once felt inclined to prostrate himself
+before monuments, the erection of which seemed to surpass the genius
+and the powers of man.
+
+LAURA.--How much I should have enjoyed wandering with Belzoni in that
+magnificent place! I have often thought so when I have been looking
+at the view of it. I think, mamma, Rollin very justly observes, that
+“Egypt seemed to place its chief glory in raising monuments for
+posterity.”
+
+BERNARD.--Will you show us the drawing, dear Laura?
+
+The kind sister rose, and brought a large, very large folio volume from
+the library table, and turned to a plate representing the extensive
+ruins of the temple at Carnac.
+
+MRS. A.--Belzoni was there early in the morning, when the sun was
+rising, and the long shades from the various groups of columns extended
+over the ruins, intermixed with the rays of light striking on the
+masses in various directions, formed such delightful views as (he tells
+us) baffle all description.
+
+You remember that when Belzoni first saw the temple of Tentyra he
+seated himself upon the ground lost in wonder and admiration. He
+thought that edifice exceeded this in point of preservation, and in
+the beauty of its workmanship and sculpture; but here he was lost in a
+mass of colossal objects, every one of which, to use his own animated
+language, was sufficient of itself alone to attract his whole attention.
+
+EMILY.--These majestic objects gave Belzoni more delight than that
+which he received on escaping from the mummy cave, or even than that he
+experienced in seeing young Memnon safe in the magazine at Cairo.
+
+MRS. A.--It was a superior pleasure, my love, and a pleasure which
+superior minds only can enjoy. Association gave it one grand charm.
+As Belzoni viewed the battles, processions, triumphs, feasts, and
+offerings painted and sculptured on the walls, he did not doubt but
+they related to the ancient history of a country universally admitted
+to be
+
+    “The queen of nations, and the boast of times,
+    Mother of science and the house of gods.”
+
+This idea would lead a contemplative mind to look back on the days and
+deeds of other times--to the consideration that all human greatness is
+transitory and fleeting--and that the time would come when even these
+memorials of former magnificence should be levelled with the ground,
+and known no longer. These reflections would be very natural; and such
+feelings would be both melancholy and pleasing.
+
+It was quite late when our friend left the ruins and returned to Luxor,
+to the little hut of an Arab, who ceded to him part of his chamber and
+a mat, which he tells us formed an excellent bed; much better than
+the one of sugar-cane. But the change was great from those grand and
+delightful ruins to a little hut. He was told that the two Copts had
+arrived, and had begun their researches extensively.
+
+This was rather annoying intelligence; but travellers must learn to
+endure disappointments, and he was obliged to be contented.
+
+Being unable to procure many men on the east side of the Nile, he
+determined to try what could be done on the west, as he had the good
+will of the Cacheffs there: but, unfortunately, the boat with Mr.
+Beechey had not arrived, and he could not proceed for want of money:
+having, from prudence, as he came by land, brought but little with him.
+Accordingly he left his interpreter, and set off in a small boat to
+meet his friend. He arrived at Ghenlh in a day or two, where they were
+rejoiced to meet each other. It took them three days to reach Thebes,
+when they moored their bark, and recommenced their operations with
+what people they could obtain. The work at Gournou was continued, and
+occupied as much of Belzoni’s attention as that at Carnac.
+
+You recollect that Gournou is just on the other side of the Nile,
+nearly opposite Carnac. The mummy cave is there, you know: the cave
+into which Belzoni went with the Arabs. It is a tract of rocks, about
+two miles in length, at the foot of the Libyan mountains, on the west
+of Thebes: every part of these rocks is cut out by art, in the form of
+large and small chambers, each of which has its separate entrance; and
+though they are very close to each other, it is seldom that there is
+any interior communication from one to another. They are celebrated, as
+I mentioned before, for the quantity of mummies they contain.
+
+It is impossible to give you any idea of those subterraneous abodes and
+their inhabitants.
+
+There are no sepulchres in any part of the world like those of Gournou,
+nor any excavations or mines that can be compared to those astonishing
+places. No exact description of their interior can be given, owing to
+the difficulty of visiting them.
+
+OWEN.--Surely Belzoni will not venture into one again, mamma! I shall
+tremble for him, especially if he trust himself under the care of a
+treacherous Arab.
+
+MRS. A.--It is true that the people of Gournou are superior to any
+other Arabs in cunning and deceit; but when Belzoni had resided some
+little time at Thebes, and was known to them, they found it in vain to
+attempt to delude him any more.
+
+OWEN.--I do not wonder at that, mother: for I do not believe that a
+very clever person could be easily deceived. Because I think we more
+frequently see superstitious or cowardly persons imposed on, than those
+who are not so: and thus one end of acquiring knowledge is, that it
+prevents our being deceived by others, and enables us to avoid their
+cunning.
+
+MRS. A.--Knowledge is intrinsically valuable, my dear boy, as it
+elevates the mind, and qualifies us for higher degrees of felicity,
+both in the present and in a future life; and the acquisition
+of useful knowledge exercises and invigorates the powers of the
+understanding; its cultivation in youth promotes virtue: it is,
+therefore, the true foundation of all our happiness.
+
+In visiting these mummy caves a traveller is generally satisfied when
+he has seen the large hall, the gallery, the staircase, and as far
+as he can conveniently go. Besides, his attention is taken up by the
+paintings he observes on the walls; so that, when he comes to a narrow
+or difficult passage, or to have to descend to the bottom of a well or
+cavity, he declines taking such trouble, naturally supposing that he
+cannot see in these abysses any thing so magnificent as what he sees
+above, and on that account deeming it useless to proceed any farther.
+
+The air is very close and disagreeable. Many persons could not
+withstand the suffocating effect it produces; and the enterprising
+traveller is also annoyed with the immense quantity of fine dust, and
+the effluvia arising from the mummies: the entry or passage where the
+bodies are is roughly cut in the rocks, which are of granite; the
+falling of the sand from the upper part causes the passage to be nearly
+filled up, so that in some parts there is not more than the vacancy
+of a foot or two left, which you must contrive to pass through in a
+creeping posture, regardless of the keen and pointed stones with which
+the path is strewed. After getting through these passages, some of them
+two or three hundred yards long, a more commodious place is generally
+found, perhaps high enough to seat yourselves. But what a place of
+rest! surrounded by bodies, by heaps of mummies in all directions,
+which, previous to being accustomed to the sight, would impress upon
+the mind disgust and horror. The blackness of the wall, the faint light
+given by the candles or torches for want of air, the different objects
+that surround the venturous traveller, seeming to converse with each
+other, and the Arabs, with torches in their hands, naked and covered
+with dust, themselves resembling living mummies, form a scene that
+cannot be described.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In such a situation our enterprising Belzoni, whom no difficulties
+could deter, frequently found himself. At first he generally returned
+exhausted and fainting, but at length became so inured to the exertion,
+that he could freely venture into these caves, indifferent to what he
+suffered. Sometimes, he tells us, after the trouble of entering into
+such a place, through a passage of fifty, a hundred, three hundred,
+or six hundred yards, he would seek a resting-place and contrive to
+sit; but when his weight bore on the body of some decayed Egyptian, it
+crushed it immediately. He would then naturally have recourse to his
+hands to sustain his weight, but they could find no better support, so
+that he would sink altogether among the broken mummies, with a crash of
+bones, rags, and wooden cases, which raised such a dust as sometimes
+left him motionless a quarter of an hour, waiting till it subsided
+again.
+
+The air in the caves is almost unfit to sustain animal life. Belzoni
+could not have borne it long at a time; and this same kind of air which
+often proves fatal to the life of animals, will also extinguish the
+flame of a torch or candle. When you are acquainted with the principles
+of chemistry, I shall be better able to explain the cause of this
+singular effect.
+
+The people of Gournou live in the entrance of such caves as have
+already been opened; and by making partitions with earthen walls, they
+form habitations for themselves, as well as for their cows, camels,
+buffaloes, sheep, goats, and dogs.
+
+It is difficult to account for this choice, as they have plenty of
+stone from the surrounding tombs, unless it be from their indolence, to
+save the trouble of building houses, and in hopes of receiving money
+from travellers.
+
+Belzoni’s principal object in entering those caves was to rob the
+Egyptians of their papyri, of which he found a few hidden in the
+numerous folds of cloth that enveloped them. You have heard of the
+papyries or paper rush, my love, which grew on the banks of the Nile,
+and of which the ancients made clothes, sails, domestic utensils, and
+writing paper.
+
+BERNARD.--_I_ have heard of it, mamma; and I understand the process by
+which they made their paper, perfectly well. They pressed the leaves
+that surrounded the stem, flattening and smoothing them; I suppose the
+leaves of the paper rush clung round each other, as those of the great
+American aloe do in the conservatory. But what has all this to do with
+Belzoni’s papyri?
+
+MRS. A.--A great deal, my little friend: because by those papyri are
+meant the scrolls or records that were usually placed with the mummies,
+containing historical facts, which would prove very useful to the
+antiquary were he able to decipher them. Such people as could afford
+it would have a sycamore case to be buried in, on which the history of
+their lives was painted: and those who could not afford a case, were
+contented to have their lives written on papyri, rolled up and placed
+above their knees. So you are now acquainted with the motive which
+induced Belzoni to enter the dismal caves at Gournou.
+
+The ancient Egyptians were evidently acquainted with linen
+manufactures, and in perfection nearly equal to our own. Belzoni
+observed some of the cloth of which their garments were made, quite as
+fine as our muslin, of an even texture, and spun so curiously that the
+threads were scarcely visible.
+
+Their knowledge was not by any means confined to architecture and
+sculpture. Belzoni was fortunate enough to find many specimens of
+their manufactures, among which was gold leaf beaten nearly as thin
+as ours. They had also the art of tanning leather, and of staining
+it of different colours; and thus they were able to make shoes of
+various shapes, and as good as those we wear. They fabricated a sort of
+glass, of which they made beads and other ornaments; and they had also
+manufactories of pottery ware. Thus you see the Egyptians possessed
+diversity of talents; things of minor importance were not forgotten,
+amidst objects both grand and sublime.
+
+LAURA.--I like them the better for that, mother. What you have said
+about combining great things with matters of comparatively small
+consequence, reminds me of my favourite, Elizabeth Smith; who,
+although possessing talents which would have been distinguished in an
+University, thought it no degradation to make a currant tart!
+
+MRS. A.--Those are in reality the greatest minds, which, possessing
+profound and various learning, do not object to its being shaded by the
+exertion of every domestic virtue.
+
+Besides enamelling, the art of gilding was in high perfection among
+the Egyptians, as Belzoni found several ornaments of that kind. They
+knew how to cast copper, as well as how to form it into sheets; and
+had a metallic composition not unlike our lead, but rather softer,
+resembling the lead we see on paper, in the tea-chests from China, only
+it was thicker. Carved works were very common and in great perfection,
+particularly in the proportion of the figures, which were made to
+preserve that sweet simplicity peculiar to themselves, and which is
+always pleasing to the beholder. The art of varnishing, and baking the
+varnish on clay, was carried on in so superior a style, that it would
+be difficult to surpass it in the present day.
+
+Painting however, was not in so much perfection among the Egyptians
+as the other arts. They knew not how to soften from shade to shade,
+until the last in “purest light was lost.” Neither could they spread
+the glowing tinge across a sable landscape; nor yet pencil a delicate
+flower unfolding its numerous petals. Their painting was extremely
+simple, as they possessed no knowledge of shadowing to elevate their
+figures. Great credit, however, is due to them for their taste in
+disposing the colours, such as they had, which were only two sorts of
+blue, red, green, yellow, and black. With these they adorned their
+temples, tombs, or whatever they wished to have painted.
+
+The Egyptians were a primitive nation: they had to form every thing
+without a model before them to imitate: yet so fertile was their
+inventive faculty, that, instead of confining themselves to five orders
+of architecture, they had so many that new ones might be continually
+extracted from their ruins. We have reason to believe that our Ionic
+order originated in Egypt.
+
+OWEN.--Oh, yes: and papa told me he had heard that the invention of the
+ornament called the volute was derived from the circumstance of a girl
+leaving a basket, covered with a tile, on a bed of celery; the plant
+growing up, and being interrupted by the tile, having bent backwards,
+and assumed the spiral form. I should like to know if this anecdote
+be true. Any thing is more interesting when we can depend upon its
+correctness.
+
+Well, mamma, will you tell us in what other arts the Egyptians excelled?
+
+MRS. A.--Their wonderful sculptures are admired for the boldness of
+their execution. Geometry is universally believed to have been first
+found out by them; and astronomy is also regarded as their invention.
+
+Indeed, that they were early celebrated for their wisdom and literature
+is sufficiently obvious, both from sacred and profane history; the
+former assuring us that Moses was learned in all the wisdom of the
+Egyptians, and that the wisdom of Solomon excelled all the wisdom of
+Egypt; and the latter allowing this nation to have been the parent of
+all philosophical knowledge.
+
+During the time that the works at Gournou and Carnac were carried on,
+Belzoni generally resided at Luxor; but when he had been busier than
+usual, he took up his lodging at the entrance of some of the tombs;
+and, far from being miserable, he was amused with the novelty of his
+habitation. The dwellings are usually in the passages, between the
+first and second entrance to a tomb; the walls and the roof are as
+black as any chimney; the inner door is closed up with mud, except a
+small aperture sufficient for a man to creep through. Within this place
+sheep are kept at night. Over the door-way there are always some half
+broken Egyptian figures, and the two foxes--
+
+BERNARD.--Stop, mamma, if you please:--two foxes! What had foxes to do
+there?
+
+MRS. A.--The Egyptians attached great importance to animals, and
+foxes were considered as guardians to their burial places. You know
+I have frequently told you, that these people worshipped animals of
+different kinds; and in their tombs Belzoni frequently found the
+mummies of bulls, cows, monkeys, cats, fishes, birds, and crocodiles.
+To the latter they attached great importance, regarding them with high
+veneration. I think we ought to be very thankful that we live in better
+times, and in a Christian land, for I dare say, if we had lived at
+that time we should have been no wiser than our neighbours; but have
+worshipped cats, and dogs, and crocodiles too.
+
+A small lamp is placed in a niche in the wall, and a mat is spread on
+the ground; and this formed the grand divan wherever Belzoni was. The
+people used to assemble around him, and the conversation turned wholly
+on antiquities. Such a one had found such a thing, and another had
+discovered a tomb. Various articles were brought for him to purchase,
+and he had sometimes reason to rejoice at having stayed there.
+
+OWEN.--Then they had discovered that he was an antiquarian. For my
+part, sooner than trust myself with the people of Gournou, in one of
+their black dismal caves, I would live in one of the bamboo huts of
+Peru, or in one of the little Laplanders’ dwellings, made of briars,
+and bark, and reindeer skins: either would be much more agreeable,
+would it not, mamma?
+
+MRS. A.--Possibly it might; but it would not have answered Belzoni’s
+purpose to have been transported across the Atlantic to the flowery
+fields of Peru, nor yet to Lapland’s land of snow, for in both places
+antiquities are unknown.
+
+Every human being can be happy if he like, for happiness certainly
+depends on ourselves.
+
+It may not suit your views of happiness, to talk of it among people
+who live in caves like wild beasts, or rather who live in tombs, among
+the mummies and rags of an ancient nation, of which they know nothing.
+But this is trifling, compared with their slave-like state; subject
+to the caprice of a tyrannical power, who leaves them no chance of
+receiving any remuneration for their labours, and no prospect of any
+change except for the worse. Nevertheless they are happy, my love, for
+custom reconciles all this. The labourer comes home in the evening,
+seats himself near his cave, smokes his pipe with his companions, talks
+of the last inundation of the Nile, its products, and what the ensuing
+season is likely to be; his wife brings him the usual bowl of lentils
+and bread, moistened with water and salt, and when she can add a little
+butter, it is considered a feast. Knowing nothing beyond this, he is
+happy.
+
+The young man’s business is to accumulate the amazing sum of a hundred
+piastres (two pounds and ten shillings) to buy himself a wife, and to
+make a feast on the wedding-day.
+
+EMILY.--To buy a wife! That is the drollest thing I ever heard of!
+Cheap articles too, mamma! Two pound ten shillings!--I am sure I would
+not be bought.
+
+MRS. A.--You are not sure of any such thing, my dear. Were you a young
+lady of Gournou, you would most probably resemble the young ladies
+there. When a man wants to marry, he goes to the father of the intended
+bride, and agrees with him what he is to pay for her. This important
+affair being settled, so much money is to be spent on the wedding
+feast. To set up house-keeping, nothing is requisite but two or three
+earthen pots, a stone to grind meal, and a mat, which is the bed. The
+lady has a gown and jewels of her own; and if the bridegroom presents
+her with a pair of bracelets of silver, ivory, or glass, she is
+fortunate and happy indeed. Thus these poor people, having never known
+our luxuries and indulgencies, sigh not for the want of them.
+
+There is no difficulty in the matter of rent or taxes at Gournou. If
+one house do not please them, they walk out and enter another, as there
+are several hundreds, or perhaps thousands at their command. At length
+they fix upon one. No rain can pass through the roof, and a door is not
+wanted, as there is nothing to lose. They make a kind of box, of clay
+and straw, which after two or three days’ exposure to the sun becomes
+quite hard. It is fixed on a stand; an aperture is left to put all
+their precious things into it, and a piece of a mummy-case forms the
+door.
+
+Belzoni had by this time acquired antiquities enough to fill another
+boat, and having secured all the valuable collection in one spot,
+built a mud wall round it, and covered it with earth; they left an
+Arab Scheik to guard it, and set off for Assouan, that old town where
+Belzoni found the Aga, and all his retinue seated on a mat under a
+cluster of palm-trees. As they were bound to Ybsambul, they did not
+remain long at Assouan, but proceeded to Philoe. You have not forgotten
+this name.
+
+EMILY.--Oh no, mamma.
+
+MRS. A.--You remember in my account of Belzoni’s last voyage, I told
+you that he stood at the stern of the vessel, waiting for the first
+beams of the sun to unveil that beautiful island; and he found an
+obelisk there and gave the Aga four dollars to pay a guard for it till
+his return. He is not going to remove that obelisk just at present, but
+at some future time; his chief object now is to hasten to Ybsambul.
+
+During their stay at Philoe, two captains arrived, who were going
+up the Nile as far as the second Cataract; and as there was some
+difficulty in obtaining two boats, it was agreed that Belzoni should
+join them, and thus form one party. Accordingly they embarked; the two
+captains, Mr. Beechey, three servants, and Belzoni himself. I have just
+been thinking how much courage Mrs. Belzoni possessed, for she was
+left in the island of Philoe till the return of the party. She very
+much wished to accompany them, but as there was only one boat she was
+obliged to her own mortification, to remain behind, notwithstanding
+the great desire she had to witness the opening of the interesting
+temple at Ybsambul. However, it was in vain to give way to useless
+regret. Mrs. Belzoni took up her abode on the top of the temple of
+Osiris, in that island, where, with the help of some mud walls, she
+enclosed two comfortable rooms; and amused herself in observing the
+customs and characters of the inhabitants, and exchanging little
+articles with the Nubian women during Mr. Belzoni’s absence; and in
+this she certainly displayed great courage, resolution, and patience.
+
+The party arrived at Ybsambul in the course of a few days; they were
+disappointed in finding that the Cacheffs were not there, but at Jomas,
+opposite Deir. They sent an express, to inform them that they were come
+with permission to open the temple, and in the meantime proceeded to
+the second Cataracts. Previous to their arrival at Wady Halfa, they
+followed the side of the Nile, as far as they could go with their
+boat, and then landed and walked three or four miles to the rock Aspir
+for the delightful views, which you remember Belzoni saw on his first
+excursion, tempted him to wish to behold them once more, and to observe
+the pleasure with which his companions would look upon them; but the
+islands did not appear so numerous, nor did the water form those
+foaming eddies, which had before so finely interspersed the views with
+white and green. Notwithstanding, the whole was very grand, and Belzoni
+was much gratified in seeing it again.
+
+Having returned to the boat, they passed the night on the same side of
+the river. The next morning they crossed the water, and entered into
+an inlet of the Nile, where they moored their bark, near the village
+of Wady Halfa, and returned in the evening to Ybsambul. However, they
+did not find the Cacheffs there. But after exercising the patience of
+our travellers by keeping them waiting a whole week, they appeared,
+and took up their abode in some small huts made of rushes, on a sandy
+bank of the river. Here Belzoni and his friends waited upon them, and
+obtained permission to recommence the operation of opening the temple
+the following morning, with the assistance of thirty men.
+
+In the morning the men made their appearance, and the work was
+recommenced with much enthusiasm and many sanguine hopes. You recollect
+the immense mass of sand that obstructed the entrance. Belzoni
+judged by calculations that it was not less than thirty-five feet
+in thickness--thicker than our house is high! This sand was a mass,
+accumulated by the winds for many centuries; and perhaps the phenomena
+so common in Egypt had added to it. I mean the whirlwinds, which occur
+all the year round, but especially at the time of the poisonous wind.
+This wind generally blows from the south-west, and lasts several days;
+so very strong, that it raises the sands to a great height, forming a
+thick cloud in the air. The caravans cannot proceed in the Deserts;
+the boats cannot continue their voyages: the whole is like a chaos.
+Frequently a quantity of sand and small stones gradually ascend to a
+great height, and form a column sixty or seventy feet in diameter,
+and so thick, that, were it steady on one spot, it would appear a
+solid mass. This not only revolves within its own circumference, but
+runs in a circular direction over a great space of ground, sometimes
+maintaining itself in motion for half an hour; and where it falls, it
+accumulates a hill of sand. It is in this way only that I can account
+for the prodigious quantity accumulated before the door of the temple.
+
+It was Belzoni’s principal object to reach that door, as the most
+speedy means of entering it. He divided the men into two parties,
+and stationed one on each side of the colossus that stood over the
+entrance. They worked pretty well, but were so few that the little
+sand they removed could scarcely be perceived. Seeing that it would
+be a very tedious business if carried on in this way, Belzoni made a
+proposal to the Cacheff to pay three hundred piastres for opening the
+temple, which was agreed to by both Cacheff and workmen.
+
+OWEN.--Three hundred piastres, mother! is it possible? As much money as
+would have bought three wives at Gournou!
+
+MRS. A.--They continued their labour for three days with much ardour,
+supposing they could finish it in that time; but on the evening of the
+third day there was as little prospect of seeing the door as on the
+first. They became tired at last, and, under some pretence, left the
+temple, the sand, and the treasure, contenting themselves with keeping
+the three hundred piastres, which had unfortunately been paid to them
+beforehand.
+
+Thus deserted, Belzoni and his friends took the resolution to work at
+the sand themselves. They were only seven: but the crew offered their
+services, and thus they became fourteen in all.
+
+Finding that one of them did as much work as one to five of their
+selfish workmen, they were well satisfied, and determined to continue.
+They rose every morning at the dawn of day, and left off two hours
+and a half after sun rise. After continuing their operation regularly
+for some days, they perceived a rough projection from the wall, which
+apparently indicated that the work was unfinished, and no door to be
+found there.
+
+The hopes of some of the party began to fail. Nevertheless, as you
+did this morning, Bernard, they persevered in their exertions, and
+completed their work: for, three days afterwards, they discovered a
+broken cornice, the following day the torus, and of course the frieze
+under, which made them almost sure of finding the door the next day.
+Accordingly Belzoni erected a palisade to keep the sand up, and to
+his great satisfaction, saw the upper part of the door as the evening
+approached. They dug away enough sand to be able to enter that night;
+but supposing the air in the cavity might be unpleasant, they deferred
+this till the following day.
+
+Early in the morning of the first of August they went to the temple,
+in high spirits at the idea of entering a newly-discovered place. They
+endeavoured to enlarge the entrance as much as they could, and, soon
+making the passage wider, they entered the finest and most extensive
+excavation in Nubia: one that can stand a competition with any in
+Egypt, except the tomb more recently discovered in Beban el Malook.
+
+From what they could perceive at the first view, it was evidently a
+very large place: but their astonishment increased when they found it
+to be one of the most magnificent of temples, enriched with statues,
+paintings, and figures! They entered at first into a very long portico,
+supported by two rows of enormous square pillars. Both these and the
+walls were covered with beautiful hieroglyphics, which exhibited
+battles, storming of castles, triumphs over Ethiopians, and various
+sacrifices.
+
+I will explain to you the meaning of _hieroglyphics_.
+
+The Egyptians, before the invention of letters, from their observations
+on the various properties of animals and plants, and from their
+knowledge of the uses of different instruments also, had, with their
+accustomed ingenuity, derived a variety of devices or emblems; and
+by these, disposed in certain attitudes, they could make historical
+records, which would be very intelligible to those who were
+acquainted with their system; and such devices or emblems are called
+_hieroglyphics_.
+
+You may suppose if Belzoni had been able to decipher the hieroglyphics
+which had been thus discovered, that he would have become acquainted
+with the whole history of the country; but with all his knowledge he
+was almost as much unacquainted as we are with the hieroglyphical
+system. It is many hundred years since it was in general use; for
+when those simple and easy characters, the letters, were found out,
+emblematical signs were laid aside.
+
+Letters are believed to be the invention of some wise Egyptian in the
+reign of Cadmus, King of Thebes.
+
+BERNARD.--Why do you say, _they are believed to be_, mother? Cannot you
+be quite sure?
+
+MRS. A.--I do not wish to be quite sure, my love. As I was not living
+in the reign of Cadmus, I cannot pretend to prove the truth of the
+assertion, though I see little reason to doubt it. Egypt is called the
+_mother of science_, you know. It was an ingenious invention whoever
+the inventor might be. For, by combining letters, every sound can be
+represented: but when hieroglyphics were in use, of course there were
+as many characters as ideas.
+
+The characters now used for the signs of the zodiac and the planets are
+specimens of hieroglyphics; and so is a circle, or snake with its tail
+in its mouth, when used to signify eternity. Flames, which are ever
+moving, represent light and life; the lion or bull, indicates strength;
+the hawk, swiftness; and so on. I will tell you more about them another
+time.
+
+Let us now accompany Belzoni through his newly-discovered temple.
+
+The second hall into which they entered was very extensive, containing
+four large pillars. Beyond this was a shorter chamber, in which was the
+entrance into the sanctuary: the sanctuary contained a pedestal in the
+centre, and at the end were four colossal figures. On the right side of
+the great hall, entering into the temple, were two doors, at a short
+distance from each other, which led into two long separate rooms, and
+other rooms and galleries opened out of them: so you may imagine what a
+fund of amusement and astonishment Belzoni met with at last.
+
+The outside of the temple was as magnificent as the interior. Only
+fancy it three times the height of our house--the immense colossi--the
+figure of Osiris twenty feet high, on the top of the door--the cornice
+enriched with hieroglyphics, and the frieze beneath; and then think,
+that this stupendous place was nearly two-thirds buried under the sand,
+and you cannot fail to admire the labour and perseverance which must
+have been exerted to obtain an entrance.
+
+Belzoni now experienced the truth of my motto; “LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.”
+He was well compensated for all his toil and anxiety; he no longer
+regarded the selfishness of the workmen: he no longer regretted the
+want of mechanical powers; he had attained his wish; he had entered
+the famous temple of Ybsambul excavated in the solid rock; and in the
+course of a few weeks he returned, completely satisfied, to the little
+island of Philoe, where Mrs. Belzoni joined the party, and accompanied
+them to Thebes.
+
+EMILY.--And whilst there they intend to visit the valley of Beban el
+Malook, and afterwards to explore the pyramids near Cairo.
+
+Will you tell us something more, mother? I believe that the celebrated
+tomb of which we hear so much, at the Egyptian Hall, in London, is the
+representation of one that Belzoni discovered in the valley of Beban el
+Malook. Will you tell us how he came to discover it?
+
+MRS. A.--Not at present, my dear Emily. I must leave you now, but you
+may go and amuse yourselves on the lawn, and tie up the little almond
+tree, my love, that is almost blown down.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Emily amused with a description of Greenland.--Belzoni makes
+    the valley of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.--He
+    enters and explores the tomb of Psammuthis.--Receives a visit
+    from Hamed Aga.--Returns to Cairo.--Visits the Pyramids.--Time
+    and purpose of their erection uncertain.--Enters one which
+    for more than one thousand years had appeared a solid mass of
+    stones.
+
+
+EMILY.--Mother, I have been looking at a picture in the study of some
+ice mountains in the frigid zone, and father has been talking to me
+about the little Greenlanders. He tells me, that notwithstanding their
+country is so cold and so desolate, they are extremely fond of it, and
+would not upon any account exchange their barren rocks and mountains
+of snow, for the spicy groves and flowery fields of warmer climates;
+and what amused me more than all, mother, father says that two of its
+inhabitants were brought to Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, you
+know, a few years since, and they pined for want until they met with
+some train oil, (what could be more disagreeable!) which they drank
+with the same relish as we drink chocolate or wine; and they danced
+about for joy when they found they were to be sent back to Greenland.
+
+Why do you think they like that cold country so much, mother?--The very
+picture of it makes me shiver.
+
+MRS. A.--Habit, my dear little girl, renders every situation in life
+easy, and it is natural to become attached to our native country.
+Custom has taught the Greenlanders to struggle with the severity of the
+most piercing winter, and suffer the hardships of a poor and scanty
+subsistence. They scarcely know, even in idea, what enjoyment we derive
+from our woods, and groves, and fields, whilst gentle zephyrs breathe
+around, and the little birds seem to vie with each other in their
+evening notes of gratitude and praise. They are unacquainted with the
+delight we experience in watching the earliest buds of spring, and in
+admiring the rich hues of summer flowers, or the ever-varying tints of
+autumn. They cannot regret the loss of pleasures unknown to them. Their
+year consists only of one night and one day: the sun never rising
+during winter, nor setting while their short summer lasts.
+
+    “There on an icy mountain’s height,
+    Seen only by the moon’s pale light,
+    Stern Winter rears his giant form,
+    His robe a mist, his voice a storm;
+    His frown the shiv’ring nations fly,
+    And hid for half the year in smoky caverns lie.”
+
+These caverns, their dwelling-places, are half under ground, roofed
+over with beams and rafters; the walls are composed of sods and turfs,
+and the interstices between are filled up with bushes, turf, and fine
+earth, and above all is a covering of skins, which nicely defends the
+inhabitants from the weather. The interior of the temple is not much
+more respectable than the outward parts of it. There is neither door
+nor chimney. Instead of the spacious hall usual in our houses, the
+entrance is through a long dark passage, with so low a ceiling, that
+those who go into it, are obliged to creep on their hands and knees.
+In the place of paper hangings, and elegant curtains, the walls are
+covered with the dried skins of bears, foxes, and other wild animals,
+to keep out the damp. For want of glass, the openings to let in the
+light are defended from cold by the membraneous substances of seals or
+fish. A raised bench lined with skins, serves the purpose either of a
+bed or a sofa, as they please, extending the whole length of the house,
+and divided into little apartments by large skins, stretched from the
+wall to the posts that support the roof, just like the stalls in a
+stable. And each partition is inhabited by a different family, who can
+carry on their own business without minding their neighbours. What
+think you of the dwellings of the little Greenlanders?
+
+EMILY.--Indeed, mother, I own that I think myself very well off not
+to be one of them; and yet, do you know, I should prefer one of their
+smoky caverns to the dismal mummy caves of Gournou. Father says, that
+although the countenances of the Greenlanders are unpleasing, and
+their manners savage, they are not treacherous, like the Arabs who
+attended Belzoni when he entered that melancholy mummy cave. We left
+our traveller at Thebes, mother, and he was about to visit the tombs
+of the kings; cannot you tell us something more about him? “Oh! do,
+dearest mother, do!” cried Bernard, as the sound of Belzoni’s name
+reached his ear; and notwithstanding Bernard was busily employed
+in putting together his dissected map, he was eager to leave this
+favourite employment to hear about the tombs of the kings; and he began
+to arrange the pieces in order in his box.
+
+“There, there goes Russia; the large Russian empire, mother; and there
+is Switzerland, with its lofty mountains, upon which the chamois goats
+bound from crag to crag; the Swiss are as fond of their country as the
+Greenlanders are of theirs, I know, by the song that Laura sings; the
+_Ranz des Vaches_, mother; and there is Italy with its orange groves;
+and there, Emily, goes your dear Lapland.”
+
+EMILY.--Laura says, that
+
+    “E’en in _Lapland’s_ land of snow,
+    Lilies spring and roses blow.”
+
+Laura was lately reading Linnæus’s tour through Sweden and Lapland,
+mother, and she says that he mentions many flowers which we consider
+delicate, as flourishing there, and that the water crowfoot--
+
+BERNARD.--Stop, dear Emily, the pieces are placed in the box in order
+due, so pray leave your flowers and your _crowfoots_, and all the
+rest of it, and come and sit by mother and hear her talk to us about
+Belzoni. I guess we shall have some wonderful accounts; you know he
+is going to Beban el Malook, and I am sure that, for my part, I would
+much rather hear about the tombs of the kings in the valley of Beban el
+Malook, than all that you can tell about Linnæus and his flowers.
+
+EMILY.--Ah, Bernard! you are no more of a botanist than Mahomed Ali,
+who amused himself with shooting across the Nile, at an earthen pot,
+even when he was surrounded by Flora’s beauties. But I am as fond of
+Belzoni as you are, so please to go on, dear mother.
+
+MRS. A.--When our travellers arrived at Luxor, which town is not far
+from Thebes, you recollect they took up their former abode in the sekos
+of the temple, and found themselves at home again, for both these
+places were now become familiar to them. The two captains set off for
+Cairo, and Mr. Beechey began to take drawings of the different views,
+whilst Belzoni recommenced his researches at Gournou. He there found
+two more agents of Mr. Drouetti, busied in digging the ground in all
+directions, and who had been tolerable successful in their pursuit
+after mummies.
+
+OWEN.--How unfortunate, mother! I wish that troublesome Mr. Drouetti
+would keep his agents in Alexandria, and not let them come to disturb
+Belzoni’s plans. Were these two fresh agents as disagreeable as the
+two Copts, who interrupted him before, and caused him to travel upon a
+donkey by day and night, from Minieh to Thebes?
+
+MRS. A.--These men were not Copts, but Piedmontese, natives of
+Piedmont, one of the most populous and delightful parts of Italy.
+Although they did interfere with Belzoni’s plans at Gournou, they did
+him no injury in the end: for when he found that it was in vain to
+proceed with his work there, he made the valley of Beban el Malook the
+scene of his researches, being confirmed in the opinion that there was
+a sufficient prospect to encourage him to commence his operation, in
+hopes of discovering the tombs of the kings.
+
+The valley of Beban el Malook is the place where the kings of Egypt
+were buried, and he thought that he might possibly discover some of
+their relics. It is completely separated from Gournou by a chain of
+high mountains, that also divides Thebes from the valley. The same
+rocks, indeed, surround the sacred ground, which can be visited only
+by a single natural entrance, that is formed like a gateway, or by
+the craggy path across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out of
+the solid rock, which is of hard calcareous or lime-stone, as white
+as it is possible for stone to be. They consist in general of a long
+passage, which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery at each
+side of it, and other chambers. Advancing farther, wider apartments
+present themselves, and other passages and stairs, until at length the
+traveller finds himself in a large hall, where the great sarcophagus,
+containing the remains of the kings is laid.
+
+Belzoni was furnished with twenty men, and began in good spirits to
+search for the tombs of the monarchs of Thebes.
+
+His only guide was the knowledge he had acquired in his many researches
+among the tombs of Gournou. He is a gentleman of great observation,
+you know, and he found that the Egyptians had a particular manner of
+forming the entrances into their tombs, which gave him many leading
+ideas to the discovery of them. Three days after the excavations had
+commenced, the first tomb was discovered; the entrance indicated
+it to be a very large one, but it proved to be only the passage of
+one that was never finished. However, this partial success gave him
+encouragement, as it assured him that his idea respecting their
+situation was correct. In the evening of the same day another tomb was
+discovered, but nothing particularly remarkable was observed in it.
+The next morning an entrance was made into another, containing many
+chambers and passages. But it was not till some days after this that
+Belzoni pointed out the fortunate spot which repaid him for all his
+trouble, and compensated him for all the mortification he had received
+from the operations of the Piedmontese. He says that this day gave
+him more pleasure and more gratification than wealth could purchase,
+arising from the discovery of what had long been sought in vain, and
+of presenting the world with a new and perfect monument of Egyptian
+antiquity; which can be recorded as superior to any other in point of
+grandeur, style, and preservation, appearing as if just finished on
+the day they entered it; indeed, what was found in it will show its
+superiority to the others.
+
+Not fifteen yards from the last tomb, Belzoni caused the earth to be
+opened, at the foot of a steep hill, and under a torrent, which, when
+it rains in the desert, pours a great quantity of water over the very
+spot he had caused to be dug.
+
+One could hardly imagine that the ancient Egyptians would make the
+entrance into such an immense and superb excavation just under a
+torrent of water, but Belzoni had strong reasons for supposing it
+from indications he had observed. The Fellahs, who were accustomed to
+dig, were all of opinion that there was nothing in that spot, as the
+situation of this tomb differed from that of any other. He continued
+the work, however, and the next day he perceived the part of the rock
+that was cut and formed the entrance. Early on the following morning
+the task was resumed, and about noon the workmen reached the entrance,
+which was eighteen feet below the surface of the ground. The appearance
+indicated that the tomb was of the first rate, but Belzoni did not
+expect to find so magnificent a one as it really proved to be.
+
+The workmen possessed but a small portion of their employer’s
+resolution and perseverance; and they advanced till they saw it was
+probably a large tomb, when they protested they could go no farther,
+because it was so much choked up with large stones, which they could
+not get out of the passage. Belzoni descended and examined the place,
+pointing out to them where they might dig, and in the course of an hour
+there was room enough for him to enter, through a passage that the
+earth had left under the ceiling of the first corridor; at the end of
+this corridor he came to a long staircase, at the foot of which a door
+opened into a still longer passage, each side of which was sculptured
+with hieroglyphics in basso relievo.
+
+The more Belzoni saw, the more he wished to see, which was very
+natural; when our curiosity is excited, it is quite right to gratify
+it, especially if the object be laudable.
+
+His anxiety was, however, checked for a time, for at the end of this
+long corridor he reached a large pit, which intercepted his progress.
+This pit was as deep as our house is high.
+
+On the opposite side of the pit, facing the entrance, Belzoni
+perceived a small aperture, only two feet wide and two feet high, and
+at the bottom of the wall a quantity of rubbish. A rope fastened to a
+piece of wood that was laid across the passage against the projections
+which formed a kind of door, appeared to have been used by the ancients
+for descending into the pit; and from the small aperture on the
+opposite side hung another, which reached the bottom, no doubt for the
+purpose of ascending. They could clearly perceive that the water that
+entered these passages from the torrents of rain, ran into this pit,
+and the wood and rope fastened to it crumbled to dust on touching them.
+At the bottom of the pit were several pieces of wood, placed against
+the side of it, so as to assist the person who was to ascend by the
+rope into the aperture.
+
+Belzoni saw the impossibility of advancing at the moment, and Mr.
+Beechey, who was with him, was also disappointed of advancing any
+farther. However, the next day, by means of a long beam, they succeeded
+in sending a man up into the aperture, and having contrived to make a
+little bridge of two beams, they crossed the pit, which was fourteen
+feet wide, twelve feet long, and thirty feet deep.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+OWEN.--How much pleasure Belzoni would have lost if he had not been
+so courageous! To what place did that small aperture lead, mother? I
+wonder why the Egyptians took so much pains: always to have crossed
+that terrible pit must have been very troublesome.
+
+MRS. A.--They found this little aperture to be merely an opening forced
+through a wall, that had entirely closed the entrance, which was as
+large as the corridor. The Egyptians had closely shut it up, plastered
+the wall over, and painted it like the rest of the sides of the pit,
+so that but for the aperture, it would have been impossible to suppose
+that there was any farther proceeding; and one would have concluded
+that the tomb ended with the pit.
+
+Belzoni and his friend entered this narrow aperture. When they had
+passed through it, they found themselves in a large and beautiful hall,
+in which were four square pillars. At the end of this entrance hall
+was a large door, from which three steps led down into a chamber with
+two pillars. Belzoni gave this room the name of the drawing-room, to
+distinguish it from the others; it was covered with figures, which
+though only outlined, were so fine and perfect, that one might think
+they had been drawn only the day before. Returning into the entrance
+hall, they found a large staircase descending into a corridor, which
+they entered. They perceived that the paintings became more perfect as
+they advanced farther into the interior; the varnish that was laid over
+the colours had a fine effect, and it was astonishing that they were in
+such good preservation. This corridor led them to a smaller chamber,
+which they called the room of beauties.
+
+They named it so, I suppose, because it was adorned with such beautiful
+figures in basso relievo and painted; when standing in the centre of
+this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by an assembly of Egyptian
+gods and goddesses. Proceeding onwards they entered a large hall, in
+which there were two rows of square pillars. Belzoni named this, the
+hall of pillars.
+
+A step at the end of this hall of pillars led into a large saloon, with
+an arched roof or ceiling, and there were entrances from this saloon
+into many other large rooms and chambers; but what Belzoni found in
+the centre of the saloon delighted him more than any thing else, and
+sufficiently compensated for the danger he had undergone in crossing
+the little bridge over the great pit, and creeping through the narrow
+aperture.
+
+It was a sarcophagus of the finest oriental alabaster, nine feet long
+and three feet wide, transparent, and minutely sculptured within
+and without with several hundred figures, representing, I suppose,
+the whole of the funeral processions and ceremonies relating to the
+deceased king, united with emblems and other devices. To give you an
+accurate account of all Mr. Belzoni saw in this tomb, would take us too
+long; you must visit the _fac simile_, as Laura calls it, in London,
+and then your curiosity will be gratified by seeing representations of
+the drawings, paintings, hieroglyphics, emblems, and ornaments which it
+contained.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+OWEN.--But were these devices of no use at all, mother? Could not
+Belzoni decipher them sufficiently to know what monarch was laid
+there?
+
+MRS. A.--As I have told you before, my dear, the hieroglyphical
+system has for many years been thrown aside, therefore it is almost
+impossible fully to ascertain any facts conveyed by it. A gentleman
+of distinguished eminence in literature has, however, lately employed
+much of his time in endeavouring to find the right key for reading
+this almost unknown language. If he succeed in his arduous and
+difficult undertaking, he will be enabled to give to the world the
+history of one of the most primitive nations, of which we are now
+nearly ignorant. In the hall of pillars, which I mentioned just now, a
+company of Ethiopians were painted, and distinguished by their colour
+and ornaments. The gentleman of whom I am speaking found the name
+of Psammuthis inserted among the hieroglyphics. Psammuthis made war
+against the Ethiopians; it is therefore supposed to be his tomb. The
+Arabs made great report of Belzoni’s discovery; it came at last to the
+ears of Hamed Aga of Kenneh, and he was told that great treasure was
+found in the tomb.
+
+This was sufficient to excite his curiosity, but not enough to gratify
+it. When the important news reached him, he collected his soldiers
+together and departed immediately for Thebes, which is generally a
+journey of two days, but he travelled with such rapidity as to arrive
+in the valley of Beban el Malook in thirty-six hours.
+
+EMILY.--Belzoni must have been very much amused when he saw him,
+mother, knowing that he was come on such a foolish expedition; and
+Hamed Aga himself must have been not a little mortified to find his
+trouble was fruitless: for I do not fancy the paintings and figures
+gave him much pleasure.
+
+MRS. A.--Before his arrival, some Arabs conveyed the intelligence to
+Belzoni and his friend that they saw from the tops of the mountains a
+great many Turks on horseback, entering the valley and coming towards
+them.
+
+Belzoni could not conceive who they could be, as he had never seen any
+Turks near the spot. Half an hour after they gave the signal of their
+approach by firing several guns.
+
+Belzoni at first fancied that it might be an armed force sent to storm
+the tombs and rocks, and to destroy the hall of pillars and the room
+of beauties! but he soon found that it was the well known Hamed Aga of
+Kenneh, for some time commander of the eastern side of Thebes, and his
+followers.
+
+OWEN.--But what business had he to go to the valley of Beban el Malook?
+It is on the west, you know, and consequently under another ruler.
+
+BERNARD.--Oh, I suppose that in case of a treasure being discovered,
+the first that hears of it takes it for granted that _he_ is entitled
+to it!
+
+MRS. A.--Yes: as a matter of privilege. When Hamed Aga was introduced
+to Belzoni, he smiled and saluted him very cordially; perhaps a
+little self-interest induced him to do so. They caused several lights
+to be brought, and descended together into the tomb. The symbolical
+representations on the walls of this extraordinary place did not
+attract his attention in the least; all the striking figures and lively
+paintings were lost upon him; his views were directed to the _treasure_
+alone, and his attendants, equally regardless of real beauties, sought
+in every hole and corner in hopes of finding the wished-for-prize.
+Nothing, however, appearing, to satisfy their master or themselves,
+after a long and minute survey, the Aga ordered the soldiers to retire,
+and whispered to Belzoni in a cautious manner, “Pray where have you put
+the treasure?” “What treasure?” said Belzoni. “The treasure you found
+in this place,” replied Hamed. Our friend smiled, as well he might do,
+at the question, and assured him that he had found no treasure there;
+but this only confirmed the troublesome Aga in his supposition. He
+laughed, and still continued to entreat that it might be shown him,
+adding, “I have been told by a person to whom I can give credit, that
+you have found in this place a large golden cock filled with diamonds
+and pearls. I must see it. Where is it?”
+
+Belzoni could scarcely refrain from laughing, whilst he assured
+him that nothing of the kind had been found there. Seeming quite
+disappointed, Hamed seated himself before the beautiful sarcophagus, to
+Belzoni’s great dismay, who dreaded that he would take it into his head
+that this was the treasure, and break it to pieces, to see whether
+it contained any gold; and, as their notions of treasure are confined
+to gold and jewels, I own there seemed some danger of it. At last,
+however, he gave up the idea of the expected riches, and rose to go out
+of the tomb. Belzoni asked him what he thought of the beautiful figures
+painted all around. He just gave an indifferent glance at them, saying,
+“this would be a good place for a harem, as the women would have
+something to look at.” And though only half persuaded that there was no
+treasure, he set off with an appearance of disappointment and vexation.
+
+EMILY.--I do not like that Hamed Aga of Kenneh, at all! He had no
+taste, had he mother?
+
+MRS. A.--What do you call taste?
+
+EMILY.--Laura says, that it is the power which the mind possesses of
+admiring and relishing the beauties found in nature and art: therefore
+I imagine Hamed Aga had none: and he makes me think of a passage I was
+reading yesterday, mother; about a Frenchman, who, when he saw the sea
+for the first time, said that it was _assez jolie_.
+
+MRS. A.--Some of Akenside’s beautiful lines occur to me:
+
+    “Say what is Taste, but the internal powers
+    Active and strong, and feelingly alive
+    To each fine impulse?--a discerning sense
+    Of decent and sublime, with quick disgust
+    From things deformed.”
+
+Though our Aga did not possess this “internal power” in any eminent
+degree, we must not judge that it is confined to the polished part
+of mankind only; on the contrary, it is as common to a rude state of
+society as to an early period of life. Even the _wild_ tribes, who
+inhabit the back settlements of America, contemplate their extensive
+lakes, the Ohio and the Ontario, with astonishment, and gaze upon the
+starry heavens with delight. Although born in so rude a state, they are
+“feelingly alive to each fine impulse.”
+
+Belzoni having embarked all that was found this season, left Thebes
+with another accumulation of antiquities, and arrived at Boolac after
+ten months’ absence.
+
+He there engaged Signor Ricci, a young man from Italy, to return
+with him to Thebes, and to make drawings and imitations of the
+hieroglyphics. Mrs. Belzoni resolved to visit the Holy Land in the
+mean time, and to wait for Belzoni at Jerusalem, whither he intended
+going when the model of the tomb was completed. She did not admire the
+inhabitants of Luxor and Thebes; and the idea of visiting the Holy Land
+had first induced her to accompany Mr. Belzoni into Egypt; therefore
+thinking this a good opportunity, she left Cairo attended by the Irish
+boy and a Janizary.
+
+Belzoni however, before he returned to Thebes, determined to visit
+the Pyramids in company with two other Europeans. You recollect that
+when Belzoni was first at Cairo he visited them, and that they are
+scattered about on the Libyan desert, to the west of that place.
+
+There is so little agreement upon the subject of the builders of the
+Pyramids, either among the natives or historians, that we, like Pliny,
+must consider this uncertainty as a just reward of the vanity of
+those by whom they were actually erected; and of course, as we cannot
+determine who were the builders of them, we should only mis-spend our
+time by attempting to fix the period of their erection. I believe
+that their _least_ antiquity must be near three thousand years, as
+Herodotus, who you know was one of our first historians, and who lived
+above two thousand years ago, found so little satisfaction in his
+enquiries after them; and Diodorus, who also lived before the birth of
+our Saviour, supposes the great pyramid to have been built one thousand
+years before his time.
+
+EMILY.--Will you tell me, dear mother, why the uncertainty in which
+we are left respecting them, should be a just reward of the vanity of
+those by whom they were erected? I do not understand what you mean by
+saying so.
+
+MRS. A.--It is generally supposed that these pyramids were designed as
+tombs and monuments for the dead; and does it not appear to you, my
+dear Emily, that a little vanity must have actuated men to spend so
+much time and be at so much expense for such a purpose; intending, as
+it were to convey to future ages proofs of their power, and mementos of
+their greatness?
+
+I am not so uncharitable, however, as to suppose that this was the
+only motive for which they were built. The Egyptian theology taught
+its votaries, that if the body was destroyed after death the soul
+underwent transmigration into the bodies of all sorts of animals for
+three thousand years, and at the end of that space returned to a
+human, though not to the original form, as that would be destroyed by
+that time; but so long as the body was preserved the soul continued
+with it, and thus avoided for so much of the three thousand years the
+unhappiness of these transformations; this may account for the great
+pains and curious precautions of the Egyptians with regard to their
+deceased friends.
+
+EMILY.--I am glad to hear this, mother, for I shall be no longer
+puzzled with wondering what so many tombs and monuments were for: and
+the motive for embalming the mummies is now very clear. And now for the
+pyramids.
+
+MRS. A.--Some of the pyramids had an entrance, and were known to be
+hollow, and others had not. Whilst Belzoni’s friends went into the
+first pyramid, which is nearly the height of St. Paul’s Cathedral in
+London, he seated himself on a large stone near the second pyramid,
+which is about the same height, and fixed his eyes on that enormous
+mass, which for so many ages has baffled the conjectures of ancient and
+modern writers.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Should you not like to know all the thoughts that passed through his
+mind as he sat upon that great stone.
+
+The sight of this amazing work astonished him, as much as the total
+obscurity in which we are of its origin, its interior, and its
+construction. One of the greatest wonders of the world stood before
+him, without his knowing whether it had any cavity within, or whether
+it was only one solid mass.
+
+Various attempts had been made by numerous travellers to find an
+entrance into this pyramid, but so ineffectually, that there seemed
+little probability that even our enterprising Belzoni could succeed.
+However, experience had taught him to anticipate success! and he knew
+very well that the greatest difficulties may be overcome by patience
+and perseverance.
+
+He rose at length, and by an involuntary impulse, walked round the
+pyramid, surveying every part, and almost every stone. When he came
+on the north side he observed indications that induced him to attempt
+searching there for an entrance. He perceived an accumulation of huge
+stones; consequently he had some hopes of finding a passage under this
+heap of ruins.
+
+The following day he resolved to make a closer examination, without
+communicating his secret to any one. This review encouraged him in the
+attempt, and he applied without loss of time to the Bey for men to
+assist him in penetrating one of the great pyramids of Egypt--one of
+the wonders of the world!
+
+Accordingly he left Cairo, having provided himself with a small tent
+and some provisions, that he might not be obliged to return to the
+city. He found eighty Arabs ready to work, and immediately set about
+the operation. They were daily paid one piastre (or sixpence) each.
+Several boys and girls of your age were also employed to carry away the
+earth as the men dug it. Belzoni contrived to ensure their good will by
+trifles and presents, and by pointing out to them the advantage they
+would gain if they succeeded in penetrating into the pyramid, as many
+strangers would come to see it, and they would get bakshis from them.
+
+Belzoni knew that nothing has so much influence on the mind of an Arab
+as reasoning with him about his own interest, and showing him the right
+way to benefit himself. He does not seem to understand any thing else.
+
+These Arabs worked with earnestness for some days; but after many vain
+expectations, and much labour in removing the mortar, which was so hard
+that their hatchets, which were the only instruments that could be
+procured, were nearly all broken, they began to flag in their prospect
+of finding any thing; and Belzoni seemed about to become an object
+of ridicule, for making the attempt to penetrate into a place which
+appeared to them, as well as to more civilized people, a mere mass of
+stone!
+
+The cause of the pyramid appearing like a solid rock was, that the
+mortar which fell from the upper part of it had been moistened by the
+dew (for in spring and summer very heavy dews fall in Egypt at night,)
+and had gradually formed itself into one mass with the stones.
+
+Belzoni’s hopes did not forsake him, notwithstanding so many
+difficulties presented themselves; and the Arabs, although their zeal
+was somewhat lessened, did not cease to work as long as they received
+a daily piastre. At last, after sixteen days of fruitless toil, one of
+the Arabian workmen perceived a small chink between two stones of the
+pyramid. Belzoni could just thrust a long palm stick into it, which
+he did upwards of two yards; and the Arab was equally delighted with
+himself, thinking that _he_ had found the entrance so eagerly sought
+for.
+
+Encouraged by this circumstance, the people resumed their former
+vigour, and the work went on rapidly. After removing one of these
+stones, and a great quantity of sand and rubbish, they came to an
+opening inwards. Having made it wide enough to enter, Belzoni took
+a candle in his hand, and, looking in, perceived a spacious cavity,
+of which he could form no conjecture. The size of the entrance was
+increased, and he found that it was a forced passage, probably intended
+to find a way to the centre of the pyramid. But the hope that this
+would lead to the real entrance was in vain: it gave him none, and
+after much trouble in enlarging it, he remained as ignorant as he was
+before he began.
+
+He gave a day’s rest to the Arabs after this disappointment, and
+dedicated the interim of their repose to a closer inspection of the
+stupendous pile; for he was determined on the accomplishment of his
+intended purpose.
+
+OWEN.--I suppose that the ill success of the discovery of the forced
+passage was considered as a failure. However, I hope he will not give
+it up. I dare say the thought of Young Memnon, and of the temple of
+Ybsambul, gave him encouragement.
+
+MRS. A.--The result of this day of researches was, that it would
+be better to begin in another part; and accordingly the Arabs were
+again set to work. They liked to receive their money, but they had no
+expectation that an entrance would ever be found! and Belzoni often
+heard them uttering in a low voice, “_magnoon!_” which is, in plain
+English, madman! However, they went on with their excavations, and
+in a few days Belzoni discovered a large block of granite: this gave
+him much pleasure. The next day three large blocks of granite were
+uncovered. His expectation and hope increased; as, to all appearance,
+he was near attaining the object of his search. Happily he was not
+mistaken; for on the next day, the 2d of March, 1818, at noon, they
+came to the right entrance into the pyramid. It proved to be a passage
+only four feet high, and it was almost filled up with large stones,
+which had fallen from the upper part. With some difficulty the stones
+were drawn out of this passage: and it was not until the evening of the
+next day that they reached solid rock.
+
+At first sight it appeared to be a fixed block of stone, and said _ne
+plus ultra_, as if ready to put an end to all Belzoni’s projects. On a
+close inspection, however, Mr. Belzoni perceived that, at the bottom,
+this immense block was raised about eight inches from the groove cut to
+receive it, and that it formed in fact a portcullis, or sliding door of
+granite, one foot three inches thick. To raise it was a work of immense
+difficulty, but it obeyed Mr. Belzoni’s talisman, perseverance; and it
+was raised high enough for a man to pass. An Arab entered with a torch,
+and returned saying the place within was very fine.
+
+They continued by unwearied efforts to raise the portcullis, and at
+last made the opening large enough for Belzoni to enter it; and, after
+thirty days’ exertion, he had the pleasure of finding himself in the
+way to the central chamber of one of the two mighty pyramids of Egypt.
+Having passed through several long passages cut out of the solid rock,
+he reached a door at the centre of a large chamber, and, walking two
+or three steps, stood still to contemplate the place where he was. It
+was a striking scene. He was in the centre of that pyramid which, from
+time immemorial, has been the subject of the obscure conjectures of
+many hundred travellers, both ancient and modern, and against whose
+hollow sides the sound of a human voice had not re-echoed for more than
+a thousand years!
+
+EMILY.--Oh, mother! how awful it must have been! This was better
+than all--even than entering the temple of Ybsambul, or the tomb of
+Psammuthis!
+
+MRS. A.--Belzoni’s torch, formed of a few wax candles, but faintly
+glimmered; and he looked round the spot where not a ray of light had
+penetrated for more than eleven centuries! He was in the middle of one
+of those stupendous pyramids, which, in defiance of the ravages of
+time, still remain as monuments of ancient magnificence, and of the
+evanescent glory of those by whom they were erected.
+
+In the central chamber, which is cut out of the solid rock, except the
+roof, which is built of blocks of stone, he found, buried on a level
+with the floor, a sarcophagus eight feet long three feet six inches
+wide and two feet three inches deep. It was surrounded with large
+blocks of granite, apparently intended to prevent its removal. Its
+lid was partly off, and it contained a quantity of earth, stones and
+some bones. From an Arabic inscription on the wall of this chamber, it
+appears that some of the Arab rulers of Egypt had opened this pyramid,
+and closed it again.
+
+When Belzoni had examined, and entered and re-entered the many chambers
+and passages within the pyramid, he returned to open daylight, highly
+gratified with the result of his researches: and I imagine, Owen, that
+he felt no small degree of satisfaction in applying to himself our
+favourite motto--
+
+OWEN.--“_Labor omnia vincit_,” mother! and it shall be _my_ motto,
+whenever I have any thing difficult to do.
+
+MRS. A.--In a few days, Belzoni, having settled his affairs, became
+anxious to return to the valley of Beban el Malook; and not omitting
+to provide himself with every thing necessary for forming models and
+impressions of the figures, emblems, and hieroglyphics in the tomb of
+Psammuthis, he set off for his old habitation among the sepulchres of
+Thebes.
+
+BERNARD.--Do let us follow him, dear mother: I am very glad he had
+such success in entering the pyramid, and I hope he will have as much
+in every thing that he undertakes, I see that patience is a very good
+quality, mother.
+
+MRS. A.--So it is, my dear boy; and if you will exercise it till
+to-morrow evening, I mean to tell you something more.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+    Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.--Motives for going
+    there.--Inundation of the Nile.--The Caravan crosses the
+    Desert.--Account of Ababde, an independent tribe, residing
+    among the rocks on the coast of the Red Sea.--Journey in search
+    for the ancient city of Berenice.
+
+
+Evening came. The curtains were drawn; the candles lighted; and the
+juvenile party seated around their mother. “Mother always fulfils her
+promise,” whispered Bernard to Emily: “we need not put her in mind of
+Belzoni.”
+
+MRS. A. overheard her little boy, smiled, and resumed her narrative:
+
+Our friend was just about to return to the tombs of the kings when we
+took leave of him last night, I believe. After a rapid and agreeable
+voyage up the Nile, he arrived there and immediately proceeded to take
+drawings and models, which employment detained him some months.
+
+And we are now going to accompany him to the Red Sea, which lies
+between Egypt and Arabia. You shall soon hear what inducement Belzoni
+had for going to the Red Sea.
+
+Our old friend, Mahomed Ali, the Bashaw, had been informed that there
+were some sulphur mines in the mountains near the seacoast, and had
+sent an escort of soldiers and sixty camels to load with sulphur:
+but they had not succeeded in procuring it. However, this poor
+success, did not discourage Ali, who was always ready to persevere
+in any enterprise. I dare say you recollect that he was of an active
+inquisitive disposition; fond of new projects and new pursuits. He
+was delighted with the electrical machine, because he had never seen
+one before: he had a sugar-mill, a silk manufacture, and a gunpowder
+mill; and now he wanted sulphur. Sulphur is used in the composition of
+gunpowder: probably that was what he wanted it for.
+
+He was advised to send some Europeans to the Red Sea, who might bring
+him word whether it were worth while to proceed in the discovery of
+sulphur. Monsieur Calliaud undertook the task, and set off, accompanied
+by an escort of soldiers, and miners from Syria. But he found the
+mines as sterile as they had been described, and returned back: not
+neglecting, however, to visit the emerald mountains in his way,
+according to instructions he had received from his former employer, Mr.
+Drouetti. He found several caves or mines in those mountains which had
+evidently been left by the ancients.
+
+Belzoni saw Monsieur Calliaud, and his account tempted him to commence
+his expedition. Monsieur Calliaud told him that there were mines in
+the country, and also that he had visited a place called Sakiet Minor,
+situated in a valley near the sea, and surrounded by high rocks. From
+the account he gave Belzoni, a notion became impressed on the minds
+of many antiquaries in Egypt that it must have been the ancient city
+of Berenice; and from the moment our friend heard this report, he
+conceived the idea of making an excursion into those deserts on a visit
+to Berenice, and only waited a proper time to execute his intended
+journey.
+
+Time had almost destroyed every remnant of the city; but Calliaud
+reported that he had discovered the remains of eight hundred houses,
+and several temples, as well as a small chapel cutout of the rock, and
+that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. Of course, our enterprising
+antiquary was anxious to inspect the remains of this once celebrated
+place, and having hired a boat to take them to Edfu, they embarked near
+Gournou. The company consisted of himself, Mr. Beechey, a doctor who
+was going to cross the Desert, two Greek servants, a miner, and two
+boys to take care of the baggage.
+
+It so happened that just after they commenced their journey, they were
+to behold one of the greatest calamities that have occurred in Egypt
+in the recollection of any one living. The Nile rose this season three
+feet above its usual height, with uncommon rapidity, and carried off
+several villages and some hundreds of their inhabitants.
+
+Belzoni witnessed this distressing scene, and he says that he never
+saw any picture that could give a more correct idea of the deluge
+than the valley of the Nile at this season. The Arabs had expected an
+extraordinary inundation this year in consequence of the scarcity of
+water the preceding year, but they did not apprehend it would rise to
+such a height.
+
+They generally make fences of earth and reeds around their villages,
+to keep the water from entering their houses; but the force of this
+inundation baffled all their efforts. Their cottages, being built of
+earth, could not stand one instant against the current, and the water
+had no sooner reached them than it levelled them with the ground. The
+rapid stream carried off all that was before it; men, women, children,
+cattle, corn, every thing was washed away in a moment, and left the
+place where the village Agalta stood, without any thing to indicate
+that there had ever been a house on the spot. Belzoni says, they
+appeared to be in the midst of a vast lake, containing various islands
+and magnificent edifices. On one side they beheld the high rocks and
+the temples of Gournou, and on the other the vast ruins of Carnac and
+Luxor. He saw several villages in danger of being destroyed like that
+of Agalta. The rapid stream had already carried away their fences, and
+the unfortunate inhabitants endeavoured to ascend the highest parts,
+with the little they could preserve from the water. Their distress was
+very great. Some of them had only a few feet of land, and the water was
+expected to rise twelve days more, and after that to remain twelve days
+at its height, according to the usual term of the inundation.
+
+It was a most distressing sight. Some poor wretches crossed the water
+on pieces of wood--bridges might have been contrived from one island
+to another, but they would have been no security; some crossed on
+buffaloes or cows, and others with reeds tied up in large bundles. The
+small spots of high ground, that stood above the water were crowded
+with people, who held out their hands and implored help.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Poor creatures! There obliged to stand dreading every moment to be
+washed away; or, at least without any hope of relief before the end of
+twenty-four days.
+
+The scanty stock of provisions they had saved was the only subsistence
+they could expect. The Cacheffs and Caimakans of the country did all
+they could to assist the unfortunate creatures with their little boats,
+but they were so few in proportion to what were wanted that they could
+not relieve the greater part of them.
+
+Belzoni would, most willingly, have taken some in his own little boat,
+but he knew it would be dangerous to attempt it, for so many would have
+entered it at once that the boat would probably have sunk.
+
+On their arrival at Erments, where happily the land was very high, they
+found many of the neighbouring people collected.
+
+Belzoni landed there, and employed his boat to fetch some of the poor
+wretches. He was courageous, courage is generally united with humanity
+and kindness. He was therefore rejoiced to find that he could be of
+some little service, and his boat was sent again and again in company
+with others to fetch the people from the opposite village. It at first
+returned with men and boys; then with men, corn and cattle; then with
+more corn, buffaloes, sheep, goats, asses, and dogs; and then with
+the women, who, I am sorry to say, are there treated as the most
+insignificant part of their property.
+
+With the gratifying reflection of having been of some little service,
+our party arrived at Esne.
+
+Their old friend, Khalil Bey was from home; they therefore proceeded to
+the island of Hovasee, on the opposite side of the Nile to Edfu.
+
+They stopped there only long enough to procure camels and men to
+accompany them across the desert, and they went on shore on the eastern
+side, and set off the next day.
+
+They had sixteen of those patient, gentle creatures, the camels; six
+of them were laden with provisions, water, and culinary utensils.
+Camels were much better than horses, because they are used to carry
+merchandise across the large sandy plains, which would be impassable
+unless Providence had created this useful animal, which is capable of
+enduring hunger and fatigue, and wonderfully provided with a resource
+against thirst by an internal formation, which enables it to drink at
+one time water enough to serve it for many days.
+
+The party was increased by a soldier from Esne, four camel drivers, and
+a Scheik to guide them. Fourteen men in all.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Scheik Ibrahim their guide, was an Arab. He had engaged to attend the
+caravan as chief, promising to conduct Belzoni and his friends to the
+ancient Berenice.
+
+They set off very early in the morning, and arrived at the first
+well in three hours. There they remained the whole day waiting for
+Ibrahim, who had not yet joined them. However the following morning he
+appeared, and they entered a good and level road through a valley. Many
+sunt and sycamore trees were interspersed about this valley with the
+thorny plant called basillah, upon which the camels feed. It is green
+I believe in the spring, but it soon becomes dry, and of course of a
+straw colour. It bears a small fruit of the size of a pea. The stalk
+resembles that of a rush, and it never grows higher than three feet.
+
+As our party advanced, the valley became narrow, and the trees, in
+some parts, thicker; but they gradually diminished until Belzoni and
+his companions found themselves on a wide and open plain; they took up
+their abode for the day at a sort of temple or enclosure, evidently
+built for the accommodation of travellers. The next morning they
+pursued their journey. Not the least vegetation was to be seen any
+where. Sometimes they passed over wide and level plains, and sometimes
+crossed hills of loose sand, till two hours before sunset, when they
+entered a valley called Beezak by the Arabs.
+
+Several trees were scattered about in this valley, and the usual thorn
+also, so the camels had a feast. They halted there for the night, and
+Belzoni was gratified by perceiving the marks of camels’ feet impressed
+on the sand, whence he concluded that he was on the great road to
+Berenice.
+
+The next morning the caravan, as in the eastern countries they call a
+company of travellers, who, for mutual protection and safety agree to
+cross the desert regions together, was divided into three different
+detachments.
+
+The luggage and provisions were sent forward; the doctor was ill, it
+was therefore dangerous for him to proceed any farther and he returned
+towards the Nile, whilst Mr. Belzoni and his friend Mr. Beechey went a
+little out of the way to see something that the Ababde had mentioned.
+
+The Ababde, are an independent tribe, who, preferring freedom and
+liberty to any thing else, reside among the solitary rocks and deserts
+which extend from the confines of Suez to Nubia, on the borders of the
+Red Sea, where they live upon dhourra and water. But such is their love
+of liberty, that they would rather submit to this mode of life than to
+the command of any government on earth.
+
+OWEN.--So would I! rather than be subject to the caprice of a
+tyrannical power at all events. Liberty, independence, for me, mother!
+Will you tell me something more about the Ababde? I admire them very
+much.
+
+MRS. A.--Perhaps your admiration would be lessened were you to see
+them: they are of small stature, badly made, and have generally a pipe
+in their mouths. Sometimes, but not often, they kill a lean goat, and
+this they consider a great feast. Their principal care is for their
+camels, which are their support; for when they are arrived at a certain
+growth they send them to be exchanged for dhourra, which as I have told
+you constitutes their food.
+
+Some of the most industrious of the Ababde cut wood and make charcoal
+with it, which they send to the Nile on their camels, and barter it for
+dhourra, tallow, and tent cloth. Few, however, undergo such a labour,
+for they like to live at their ease.
+
+BERNARD.--Well, mother, I would much rather be one of the harmless
+Ababde, and cut down sunt trees among the rocks and deserts, load my
+camel, and honestly earn the reward of my labour, than one of the
+deceitful Arabs at Gournou.
+
+MRS. A.--The Arabs of Gournou seem to have made a strong impression
+on your mind, my dear. However, I am of your opinion, that a poor and
+honest life is preferable to one dependent upon mean resources.
+
+Belzoni entered with his friends into a sandy plain, with rocks of
+white stone on each side nearly perpendicular, and passed through
+several beautiful and romantic valleys. The soil was sandy and stony,
+but the thorny trees and the sunt trees formed a complete forest in
+many parts. One who wishes to retire from the world might find a
+charming retreat in these wilds, were it not for the want of water,
+and all that is necessary to the subsistence of human life, besides
+the intense heat of the sun, which on calm days is so great as to be
+almost insupportable. Advancing onwards, in three hours they reached a
+summit, whence they perceived at some distance what appeared to be the
+walls of a large and extensive town surrounded by high rocks, as if
+by fortifications. On their approach, they found it was an extensive
+sandy plain, with several granite eminences. From this place they
+travelled to the left, towards the valley in which it was intended they
+should halt. The caravan had reached the place before them, and they
+proceeded on their march till they overtook it near a well, situated
+in the midst of rocks, which, interspersed with trees, formed an
+amphitheatre round it. There they remained a day or two.
+
+Whilst there, they were visited by a number of the Ababde. It was a
+novelty for strangers to come so near them; the greater part of them
+had never quitted their mountains, and those few who had been to the
+Nile to purchase dhourra were accounted men of great knowledge. They
+said that they were content to live in that wild state, as all their
+forefathers had done, to remain free from tyranny and despotism; and
+that they would be quiet if they were left so; but on the contrary they
+would sooner perish than lose their liberty.
+
+You would have been amused if you could have seen with what curiosity
+they eyed the strangers, and at their ignorance of things in common
+use with us. One of them perceived a piece of lemon-peel lying on the
+ground and wondered what it was, whilst another took it up and ate it
+with an air of great self-sufficiency. I dare say he had been to the
+Nile, and did so to show the great knowledge he had acquired--that
+lemon-peel is good to eat.
+
+Belzoni gave them a piece of loaf sugar, and when they had eaten it,
+they declared that the valley he came from must be better than theirs,
+as it produced such good and sweet bread.
+
+OWEN.--Had they arms, mother? But I suppose not, for as their
+neighbours did not injure them, of course they would not wish to
+attack their neighbours.
+
+MRS. A.--Unfortunately they had some use for them, for the soldiers and
+miners, who had accompanied Monsieur Calliaud to the emerald mines,
+which are among these mountains, had behaved very ill towards them,
+assailed their huts, and committed many depredations, of which the
+Ababde complained very much. Their arms were chiefly slings, spears and
+swords.
+
+Early on the morning of the 28th Belzoni and his party again set off,
+and travelled for two days, when they saw the Red Sea at a great
+distance, and bent their course through several valleys to a very high
+mountain called Zubara.
+
+This name is given it in consequence of the emeralds which have
+been found there. At the foot of this mountain about fifty men were
+encamped, and at work in the old mines of the ancients, in hopes of
+finding some of the precious stones. Their work had commenced about
+six months before, but had been attended with no success, as the mines
+were nearly choked up with rubbish. Belzoni contrived to acquire all
+the information he could about the object of their expedition and
+received very favourable accounts of it, being assured that the ruins
+of the town of which he was in search was only six hours’ distance;
+he therefore hoped to have a fine view of it before night. Whilst the
+camels halted he went to see the entrances into the mines. They were
+something like the common tombs or mummy pits at Gournou, cut in the
+rock, and extended a great distance before the emeralds were found.
+Belzoni procured an old man from among the natives to guide them to the
+ruins of the anticipated Berenice, and sought information from some of
+the miners who had been at the very place when Monsieur Calliaud was
+there. Their accounts certainly did not correspond with his; he had
+raised Belzoni’s expectations very highly, you know.
+
+EMILY.--Oh yes, mother. There must have been a city I am sure, for
+Monsieur Calliaud told Mr. Belzoni that he had discovered the remains
+of eight hundred houses, and several temples, as well as a small chapel
+cut out of the rock, and that the ruins resembled those of Pompeii. I
+dare say that these people went only in search of mines, and did not
+pay much regard to the beauties of architecture, or the grandeur of
+ancient ruins!
+
+MRS. A.--So Belzoni thought; and, encouraged by this hope, they
+prepared for a departure the following morning. When they had gone
+about half a mile, they perceived that they were without their guides.
+Both the Scheik Ibrahim, and the old man who was to conduct them over
+the country to see the town and other places, were missing; they were
+consequently obliged to return in search of them, and found them hid
+behind a rock, conversing secretly with each other.
+
+This appeared rather suspicious, but they professed to have been in
+search of a sheep which was stolen in the night, and they had nothing
+else to live upon; but, as they said they could not find it, they again
+set off for the much-desired and ancient city of Berenice.
+
+They trusted themselves to the guidance of the old man, though they
+were not pleased with his manœuvres. The road lay through high rocks
+and narrow valleys, embosomed with trees, until they had gradually
+approached the mountain of Zubara, the highest of the emerald
+mountains. Here they were led by the old man in various directions,
+through wild and craggy places, for seven hours. He told that the
+spot he wanted was near, but that they had a high pass to go over the
+mountain named Arrarie.
+
+BERNARD.--Before we follow them, will you be so good as to tell me
+where Pompeii is? Emily says that Monsieur Calliaud stated that the
+ruins of Berenice resembled those of that city.
+
+MRS. A.--It was once a large city of Italy, my love, but was
+overwhelmed by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius. About fifty years since,
+a farmer was digging for a spring of water or deep ditch, when he came
+to the top of magnificent buildings. This was the first discovery for
+many hundred years; and now several streets and the ruins of many
+majestic buildings have been discovered. The name of the place was
+Pompeii.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Search for the ancient city of Berenice.--The boats of the
+    Ababde fishermen described.--Discovers the remains of the
+    Berenice mentioned by a former traveller.--Returns towards
+    Esne.--Meets with two shepherd girls tending their sheep on
+    the mountains.--Sufferings of travellers in crossing the
+    Deserts.--The caravan reaches the banks of the Nile.--Belzoni
+    returns to Gournou.
+
+
+MRS. A.--Our travellers continued their journey, for hope gave them
+patience, and ascended something like an ancient road, or rather path.
+On the summit of the mountain above they observed a large wall, so
+situated that it appeared to look over the path and both sides of the
+mountain.
+
+When they reached the top of the road their camels were quite
+exhausted: some of them had fallen on the way, and were unloaded to
+enable them to ascend; and the strongest camels had to return to fetch
+the loads of the others. A steep craggy road over a mountain is no more
+adapted to a camel than the deep sand of the Desert to a horse.
+
+When they reached the summit, they began to look for the desired
+Berenice; but, alas! in vain. Their hopes had been so raised by
+Monsieur Calliaud, that Belzoni’s active imagination had already
+pictured the remains of some majestic dome, or lofty column, or noble
+edifice, by which he expected to distinguish the town, and which was
+to serve as a guide to the spot, whither he intended to hasten the
+moment he beheld it. His companion was not less anxious than himself,
+and his ideas were equally excited. They had made arrangements how to
+proceed when they arrived there. As their provision was scanty, they
+could stop but a few days, and had already distributed their time
+accordingly. He was to take drawings of all the beautiful buildings,
+monuments, figures, paintings, sculptures, statues, and columns.
+Belzoni was to survey all the vast ruins as fast as he could; to
+observe where any thing was to be found or discovered: to take measures
+of all the monuments and place of every stone in that great city.
+
+Such pleasing ideas had the fertile fancy of our antiquaries excited.
+Now to the fact.
+
+From the summit upon which they were, they expected to have a view
+not only of the sea, but of a wide plain also; as it was natural to
+suppose, that a town like Pompeii could not have been entirely built
+among those wild mountains. Not perceiving any, they expected to be
+agreeably surprised, on turning some of the rocks, by beholding one.
+The old man told them that, previous to reaching the town, they would
+see some grottoes in the mountains, which their vivid imaginations
+made them conclude were the tombs of the inhabitants of Berenice. They
+advanced insensibly, continually keeping their eyes fixed on the points
+of some rocks which stood before them, with the hope that, on turning
+the next angle, the glorious sight would present itself; and, indeed,
+the scattered and ruined walls of some ancient enclosures announced to
+them that they would soon see some habitation.
+
+They observed a square hole in the rock, which had evidently been cut
+by some of the miners in form of a chapel.
+
+Belzoni now began to congratulate himself that they had nearly
+arrived, and, whilst employed with these thoughts, the old man who
+was at the head, serving as a guide, made a sign to halt. The drivers
+gave a signal to the camels, and the camels, who were already weak
+and exhausted by passing over the mountains, did not wait for its
+repetition, but with all the luggage, were crouched in a moment on the
+ground, before Belzoni was able to account for it. He told the drivers
+that he did not intend to stop there, but wished to advance farther
+into the town, where the houses might be seen; when, to his no small
+astonishment, he was told by the old man that this was the very spot
+where the Christian had been before.
+
+EMILY.--What an odd, mysterious old man he was, mother! I do not admire
+him at all. By the other Christian, he meant Monsieur Calliaud, I
+suppose. But it is quite impossible that _he_ could have called this
+place Berenice: and where were the eight hundred houses?
+
+MRS. A.--Belzoni himself could hardly suppose that the account he had
+received would be so exaggerated, as to lead him to suppose he should
+find another Pompeii instead of the place at which he had just arrived;
+and he reproached the old man for stopping there, and not advancing
+to the town, which, according to his own account, could not be far
+off. He again protested that this was the spot, and that there was no
+other with houses in any part of the deserts or mountains. Belzoni was
+incredulous; and resolving not to submit to what he believed to be the
+imposition of the old man, as it now wanted four hours to sunset, he
+mounted his camel again.
+
+His friend, Mr. Beechey went with him, consequently all the caravan
+followed at a distance. They entered a long valley, and, filled with
+the hope of seeing the ancient city, our travellers proceeded for four
+hours without perceiving a single habitation.
+
+You may fancy, how desolate it was, and how much disappointed they must
+have felt. The sun was just setting, you know, therefore it was getting
+dark; and no house was near.
+
+At length they reached a valley called Wady el Gomal, which was almost
+covered with a beautiful tree called the egley; and having lost all
+hopes of finding Berenice that evening, they halted to rest on a clean
+bed of sand, which I believe was as comfortable as the sugar-cane bed,
+Bernard, though Belzoni would certainly rather have slept among the
+magnificent temples of the great city. But the poor camels, instead of
+reposing, were obliged to fetch water, both for themselves and their
+masters, from a well not less than fifteen miles distant.
+
+OWEN.--I cannot imagine, mother, what could induce the old man not to
+show them the place described by Monsieur Calliaud. Perhaps the miners
+at Zubara had told him to keep it secret, for fear Belzoni should
+discover any emerald mines in or near Berenice.
+
+MRS. A.--Indeed, they did not know what to think. Their provisions
+began to make them cautious: they had biscuit for twenty days, but
+their sheep was lost, you remember. Still they were easily satisfied,
+so that they did but reach the desired emporium of the commerce
+formerly carried on by the nations of Europe, with India.
+
+Early on the following morning they perceived a high hill four or five
+miles from the valley, and as they had to wait for the return of the
+camels, they thought they might ascend the mountain to have a view
+of the country, or of the remains of the celebrated Berenice. They
+set off, and observed on their way several flocks of wild antelopes
+skipping about on the craggy rocks on each side of the beautiful
+valley, which, being ornamented with suvaroe and debbo trees in
+addition to the egley, formed a delightful contrast to the wide sandy
+desert. No one had probably been in this spot for many centuries, and
+very likely no one will pass through it for many more to come. When
+they reached the summit of the mountain they took a view around: they
+had a small telescope with them, and the peak on which they stood
+commanded a prospect many miles in extent.
+
+Alas! the much-sought-for town had vanished, or rather never appeared.
+No remnants of it were to be discerned, and Belzoni might have
+exclaimed in the words of Shakspeare:
+
+    The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces,
+    The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
+    Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve,
+    And, like the baseless fabric of a vision,
+    Leave not a wreck behind.--
+
+Indeed there was ocular demonstration in the truth of this assertion,
+with respect to its towers, temples and palaces; for the once brilliant
+and flourishing city had disappeared, and they now began to be
+persuaded that Monsieur Calliaud had seen the town, with its eight
+hundred houses, and so much like Pompeii, in his own imagination only.
+
+Belzoni observed some high mountains on the south-east, which the old
+man, who had followed them all the way, said were near the sea. They
+determined to pursue that course, and to try whether they could reach
+the spot described by a former traveller as being the situation of
+the Berenice Trogloditica. Hope seemed always to cheer our traveller;
+nothing compelled him to relinquish his projects.
+
+They descended the mountain, and returned to the beautiful valley in
+which they had passed the preceding night.
+
+They waited there, for the return of the camels with a fresh supply
+of water, which they were much in want of, for there only remained a
+single zemzabie or leather bag, containing about three quarts. Their
+thirst was great, and they felt in some degree, the calamity of living
+without water. Hunger is painful to endure, but thirst is far more
+intolerable. At last, however, to their great joy, the camels appeared
+in sight. The poor drivers were exceedingly fatigued, and almost unable
+to proceed. The caravan travelled on for some hours, and arrived in
+another valley, the rocks of which were nearly perpendicular. After
+this the hills became small, and the sandy banks rising one behind
+another made them expect to see the sea very shortly. They went on till
+a late hour, and at length halted at a spot where they thought the sand
+might again prove a comfortable bed. Fortunately for Belzoni it was
+so: for his camel was so weary, that no sooner did he reach it than he
+threw him off his back, and leaving him there, saddle and all, set off
+without delay to feed among the thorns.
+
+Early the next day they resumed their journey; but the hills of sand,
+instead of diminishing, increased in size, which made them fearful that
+they were yet far from the sea. However, about noon the valley opened
+all at once, and at the distance of five miles they saw the Arabian
+Gulf.
+
+You may judge how much joy the sight of the open horizon must have
+given them, after having been so long shut up in that narrow valley.
+
+They perceived, on arriving at the shore, that it was composed as far
+as they could see of a mass of petrifications of various kinds.
+
+The Red Sea is particularly noted for its seaweeds, corals, shells,
+and similar productions, and the bottom of it is literally a forest
+of submarine plants. And these are formed into a solid mass like a
+rock, which extends from the bank of sand that forms the boundary of
+the tide, and runs into the sea for a great length. They resolved to
+take the road along the coast until they should reach the spot which
+was pointed out as Berenice, according to the account of the traveller
+whom I named before. It is not marked on our modern maps. But I believe
+it is just by that point of land projecting into the sea, called Cape
+Lepte, a little beyond the 24th degree of latitude.
+
+They acquainted the drivers with their intention, who, poor creatures,
+were too much fatigued willingly to acquiesce in it. They indeed went
+so far as absolutely to refuse proceeding, but at last found it in vain
+to resist. It was concluded that two of the camels should go first to
+the nearest well for water, and that the caravan should wait their
+return. During this interval, Belzoni and his friends made a little
+excursion along the coast; the plain which extended from the mountains
+to the sea was covered in many places with woods of sycamore trees,
+and at the foot of these mountains they saw several mines of sulphur,
+which they wished Mahomed Ali could have viewed also. They made a good
+repast out of some shell-fish, which abound along the coast, and they
+were probably as great a feast to our wearied and hungry friends,
+Emily, as the train oil was to your little Greenlanders.
+
+On their return to the caravan they found that the guide had met with
+an acquaintance of his who lived by catching fish, not far from where
+they were. His only habitation consisted of a tent four feet high and
+five feet wide; and his wife, her son and daughter, formed the family.
+
+Money presented an attraction to the old fisherman, and persuaded him
+to try what he could do towards procuring them some fish, as they were
+so hungry. Their mode of fishing is somewhat strange; and the boat they
+use for the purpose is one in which I own I should not much like to
+see my little Bernard. They throw in the water, part of the trunk of a
+tree, at one end of which a small pole is stuck upright, to serve as a
+mast, and on the top of it a piece of wood is horizontally fastened. A
+woollen shawl being thrown over it, forms a kind of sail; two fishermen
+place themselves astride on the large trunk, and by means of a cord
+fastened to the middle of the sail, they take the wind more or less as
+is required.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the fishermen were thus equipped, and at some distance from the
+shore, Belzoni could scarcely tell how they seized their prey, but he
+fancied that they darted their long spears at the fish, and procured
+them by this means. The old man brought one to Belzoni: he could not
+tell its name, but he had seen a very good representation of it among
+the hieroglyphics in the tomb of Psammuthis.
+
+The camels returned in the course of a day or two, with a load of fresh
+water, and the caravan now divided into two parties. The Greek servant
+and some of the camels were sent to a spring in the adjacent mountains,
+there to wait the return of the rest, who set off in the forenoon
+along the coast. On their road they passed the abodes of several other
+fishermen: but when they saw our travellers at a distance, they left
+their tents and marched off towards the mountains. All the signs that
+were made to stop them were of no avail. They were like the people of
+Mainarty, who left their huts in a similar manner, and hid themselves
+in that great hole under the ruins of an old castle, and would not come
+out when Belzoni went to visit them.
+
+When our friends arrived at the tents, they found some excellent fish
+just roasted, which the inhabitants had no doubt intended for their own
+supper. They however partook of their meal, and having left some money
+in payment on the top of a water jar, continued their journey. Towards
+evening they left the shore, and began to feel the short allowance
+of water, as they knew that, without great care, it would soon be
+entirely gone. A few hours after, they crossed a very extensive
+plain, and arrived again at the sea. Not expecting to discover the
+remains of Berenice that night, it was an agreeable surprise to find
+themselves all at once on one of those heaps of ruins which point out
+the situation of ancient towns so often seen in Egypt. They entered,
+and at once beheld the regular situations of the houses, the principal
+streets, and in the centre a small Egyptian temple, nearly covered with
+sand, as well as the insides of the houses; their wonder increased on
+examining the materials with which the houses were built: they could
+see nothing but coral, roots, madrepores, and several petrifications of
+various seaweeds.
+
+EMILY.--These were singular buildings, however, mother! We have heard
+of the little huts in Peru, which are made of bamboo canes; and of
+the wigwams of North America, formed of stakes, and leaves, and turf;
+and of the dwellings of the little Laplanders, composed of bark and
+reindeer skins; and we have seen the cottages of poor people in England
+built of mud; but we have never heard of coral and seaweed houses
+before!
+
+MRS. A.--The situation of this town was delightful. Our travellers
+concluded it to be the Berenice laid down by D’Anville, as it nearly
+agreed with the situation marked on his map. They determined to examine
+it most minutely. They measured the town, and took the plan of the
+temple, which was built of soft calcareous earth, in the Egyptian
+style. Their grand difficulty was about the water; it was become so
+scarce that they had reason to dread remaining there the whole of the
+next day. The nearest well was a day’s journey distant. Notwithstanding
+their excessive thirst, they were determined to endure it, rather than
+give up their project; and being moonlight, they devoted the hour of
+rest to an examination of the place.
+
+Though they had only taken some biscuit and water for a long time,
+except the fish which they found in the tents of the fishermen, they
+contented themselves very well with respect to food; but their thirst
+was continually increasing; and their zemzabie, which some days before
+contained only three quarts, was nearly empty. However, that they might
+be perfectly sure of having actually reached Berenice, they persuaded
+the Scheik to go farther with them, just to take a survey of the
+country, and to leave the rest of the people where they were in the
+mean time. Before they departed, little Mussa one of the boys who had
+joined the caravan at Gournou, to attend to the camels, was set to dig
+in the temple; he had no spade, poor fellow! but as it was only soft
+sand, a shell or caquille supplied the place of one.
+
+Proceeding onwards, they saw nothing but an extensive plain to the foot
+of the mountain that formed the cape on the south; they had telescopes,
+but could see no sort of elevation, or any thing else that could lead
+them to imagine there were any remains of habitations. They therefore
+returned to the town, and found that the boy had excavated about four
+feet of sand, near one corner of the temple, and to their surprise
+discovered that it was Egyptian. They had imagined that it was erected
+by the Greeks. The walls were adorned with sculpture and hieroglyphics,
+and they carried a small marble slab away as a memento. The little
+Mussa had worked very well, considered he had only a shell in the place
+of a spade.
+
+The plain that surrounds this town is very extensive, and partly
+covered with small plants of sunt and suvaroes; which last is a small
+tree, with leaves resembling those of the laurel; it grows close to the
+salt water, and generally out of the rocks. Belzoni carefully examined
+the town, and counted the houses (of which there were two thousand,)
+that he might not take a wrong report, and be mistaken for another
+Calliaud. This place being on the coast, was once a port of commerce
+with India. Having spent as much time there as they prudently could,
+they recommenced their journey towards the north-west, firmly intending
+at some future time to inspect the whole of the ruins.
+
+OWEN.--To the north-west: then they are returning to Esne, I suppose?
+I hope they will fall in with some well, for they must be extremely
+thirsty by this time.
+
+MRS. A.--They left the spot on the evening of the same day, and after
+travelling some hours by moonlight, fortunately arrived at the well of
+Aharatret, a mountainous place, where the water was good to drink.
+
+Their biscuits were nearly gone by this time, they were, therefore,
+agreeably surprised to find a few sheep around the well, as they hoped
+to be able to purchase one. They approached, intending to do so, when
+the guardian of the flock beat a forced march into the mountain, and
+drove the intended repast away from them. But they were not inclined
+to be deprived of what they could purchase; and they sent some of the
+drivers to follow the flock, which they willingly did, being as hungry
+as themselves. The fugitives were pursued and stopped. They reached the
+flock, and found that its guardians were two shepherd girls. The tawny
+coloured nymphs were surprised at the fountain by their pursuers, and
+took refuge on the mountains; but, unlike the fishermen on the coast
+of the Red Sea, or the people of Mainarty, they were easily persuaded
+to return, and allowed the hungry group to take one of their lambs.
+The caravan arrived at Sakiet Minor again in a few days, and thence
+proceeded to the valley of Wady el Gomal; after which it crossed a very
+wide sandy plain, and reached the entrance of the chain of mountains
+that leads to the Nile. Their camels were by this time so much
+exhausted as to be scarcely able to go on; they had already lost three
+on the road. It is difficult for those who have never seen a desert
+to form a correct idea of one; it appears like an endless plain of
+sand and stones, without roads or shelter, without any sort of produce
+for food. The scattered trees and shrubs of thorns, that only appear
+when the rainy season leaves some moisture, barely serve to feed wild
+animals and a few birds. Every thing is left to nature. The springs
+of water are generally at the distance of four, six, or eight days’
+journey. One of these may perhaps happen to be dry, and then if the
+same dreadful calamity happen at the next well, which is so anxiously
+sought for by the wearied travellers, the misery of their situation
+cannot well be described.
+
+They have the camels with them, it is true, and although their only
+dependence is placed on these useful creatures, yet they themselves are
+sometimes so thirsty as to be unable to proceed. Their condition must
+be distressing, for it admits of no resource. Many perish, the victims
+of insatiable thirst. It is in such a state that the value of a cup of
+cold water is really felt.
+
+In these cases there is no distinction of persons; if the master has
+none, the servant will not give it him; for very few are the instances
+in which a man will voluntarily lose his life to save that of another,
+particularly in a caravan in a desert, where the people are strangers
+to each other. What a situation for a man to be placed in! riches will
+avail nothing; he may perhaps be the owner of the caravan, and yet
+die on the desert for want of a cup of cold water! no one gives it to
+him; he offers all he possesses; no one hears him; they are all dying,
+though by walking a few miles farther they might be saved; the camels
+are lying down and will not attempt to rise; no one has strength to
+walk; only he who has so much as a glass of that liquid, which he
+would not part with for all the emeralds of Zubara, has any chance of
+living: and if he is enabled to crawl a mile farther, perhaps he dies
+too.
+
+It is indeed a dreadful situation to be placed in, exposed to the
+burning sun, without water and without shelter, in the midst of a
+burning desert. I believe the sufferings of those who have experienced
+what it is, are the greatest a human being can sustain. The eyes
+grow inflamed; the tongue and lips swell; a hollow sound is heard in
+the ears; a faintness or languor takes away the power to move; some
+wandering tears escape from the eyes; the poor sufferer drops on the
+earth and becomes insensible; all these feelings arise from the want of
+a little water.
+
+And now we will return to Belzoni. We left him just entering the chain
+of mountains that leads to the Nile.
+
+The caravan proceeded very much as before until it arrived on the banks
+of that river, and the freshness of its water made them sensible of its
+superiority over that of almost any other.
+
+They went onboard their little boat the same night, and set off for
+Esne.
+
+You know when they went up the Nile, almost all the land around was
+under water, and the poor people were standing about on the little
+islands, holding out their hands and imploring assistance. Now,
+although the water had only retired fifteen days, yet all the lands
+that were before overflowed were not only dried up but actually
+planted; the muddy villages carried off by the current were all
+rebuilt; the fences opened; the Fellahs at work in the fields; the
+aspect was quite changed, and all presented a scene of industry and
+happiness.
+
+They arrived at Esne in a day or two, and visited the Bey, who received
+them very politely, inquired about the mines, and was anxious to learn
+the result of their journey. They then set off again, and reached our
+well known Gournou after an absence of forty days.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+    Dr. Franklin’s kite.--Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar
+    by means of a paper kite.--Removal of the obelisk from the
+    Island of Philoe.--It falls into the Nile.--Ingenious method
+    of raising it.--It is launched down the cataract.--Arrives in
+    safety in Rosetta.--Belzoni goes to Beban el Malook.--Completes
+    his drawings and models of the Tomb.--Bids final adieu to
+    Thebes.--Traverses the Western Desert in search of the Temple
+    of Jupiter Ammon.--Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.--Reaches the
+    Lake Mœris.--Rose-trees in profusion.
+
+
+“Mother!” exclaimed Bernard, running into the breakfast room where his
+mother was seated, and throwing his straw hat on the sofa, “Do you know
+what I have been thinking about?”
+
+“Indeed, my dear,” said Mrs. A. “your employments are so various, and
+your thoughts are generally dependent upon them, I suppose, that I
+feel at a loss to imagine.”
+
+“I have been thinking,” said he, “that when I am older I shall get Owen
+or father to teach me how to swim, and that I shall fly my kite whilst
+I am in the water, as Dr. Franklin did when he was a boy. How do you
+approve of my plan?”
+
+MRS. A.--I own that I think some little danger would be attached to
+it, just at present however. Dr. Franklin was a native of Boston,
+and was taught the practice of swimming when very young, so that he
+was particularly expert and skilful in this as in almost every other
+respect. But what led you to think of him now?
+
+BERNARD.--Owen and I are just come from the park, where we have been
+flying our new kite; and Owen has been telling me how much pleased
+Dr. Franklin was with his new method of swimming. Do you remember it,
+mother? He one day wished to amuse himself with his kite and to enjoy
+at the same time the pleasure of swimming, so he got into the water,
+and lying on his back, held the end of the string in his hands and went
+along in such a delightful manner. I wish I had been Dr. Franklin! He
+engaged a boy to carry his clothes round the pond, to a place which
+he pointed out to him on the other side, whilst he in the mean time
+crossed the pond with his kite flying high in the air. Was it not a
+clever idea?
+
+MRS. A.--He managed to do two things at once, certainly. But I do
+not admire Dr. Franklin for his new mode of swimming only. He was
+clever whilst a boy, and when grown up became a very useful character,
+and rendered great services both to his own country and the world at
+large: however, I would advise you not to attempt to imitate him in the
+exploit that has pleased you so much, until you have acquired a little
+of his experience.
+
+I can, if you please, tell you of another achievement performed by
+means of a kite.
+
+You have perhaps heard of Pompey’s pillar. It is not far from
+Alexandria, the place at which Belzoni landed when he went to Egypt,
+and it is supposed that this column was erected to the memory of the
+great Roman warrior. Pompey was killed as he was going to that country,
+you know, soon after he had stepped into the little bark.
+
+The column called Pompey’s Pillar is one hundred and ten feet high. It
+has suffered little or no injury from time. It is of the Corinthian
+order, which is at once simple and beautiful. Pompey was killed B.C.
+48. The time of the erection of the pillar is scarcely known, but it
+was named after him in the fifteenth century, when learning began to
+revive from a torpid state in which it had long languished, and men of
+science bestowed names on all the monuments.
+
+The pedestal has been somewhat damaged by the instruments of
+travellers, who are anxious to possess a relic of this antiquity; and
+one of the volutes of the column was immaturely brought down a few
+years ago by the ingenuity of some English captains. So I have heard;
+however, I cannot vouch for the truth of my story farther than the
+authority of Mr. Irwin, the traveller who relates it.
+
+A strange fancy entered the thoughts of one of those seamen as they
+were coasting about in the harbour of Alexandria, and the eccentricity
+of the idea caused it to be immediately adopted, for its apparent
+impossibility only made them the more anxious to put it into execution.
+
+They ordered out the boat and with proper implements pushed ashore,
+intending to drink a bowl of punch on the top of Pompey’s Pillar. They
+arrived at the spot, and many contrivances were proposed to accomplish
+the desired project.
+
+But their labour was vain; and they began to despair of success, when
+the genius who struck out the frolic happily suggested the means of
+performing it.
+
+A man was despatched to the city for a paper kite. The inhabitants
+were by this time apprised of what was going forward, and flocked in
+crowds to be witnesses of the address and boldness of the English. The
+governor of Alexandria was told that some sailors were about to pull
+down Pompey’s pillar; however, he politely left them to themselves,
+saying that the English were too great patriots to injure the remains
+of Pompey. The kite was brought, and the wind being in the right
+direction, it flew so directly over the pillar that when it fell on the
+other side the string lodged upon the capital.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The chief obstacle was now overcome. A thick rope was tied to one end
+of the string, and drawn over the column by the end to which the kite
+was fixed. By this rope one of the sailors ascended to the top (sailors
+are used to run up the shrouds, you know, and this was somewhat
+similar;) in less than an hour a kind of rope ladder was constructed,
+by which the whole company went up, amidst the shouts and claps of the
+astonished multitude.
+
+To the eye below, the capital of the pillar does not appear capable
+of holding more than one man upon it; but our seamen found it could
+contain no less than eight persons very conveniently.
+
+No accident happened during their ascent to this giddy height for they
+were sailors, and used to look down from the tall masts.
+
+The only injury sustained by the pillar, was the loss of the volute
+I mentioned before, which descended with a thundering sound, and was
+brought to England by one of the captains. They reported that one
+foot and an ankle of a statue were still remaining upon the monument,
+probably of Pompey himself.
+
+I cannot say that I am sure such a thing did really and actually
+happen. I can only depend on what I have heard from others. But the
+adventurers themselves have left a memento of the fact, by the initials
+of their names painted in large black letters just beneath the capital.
+
+BERNARD.--Well, it is a very amusing anecdote, mother! Kites are very
+ingenious--as ingenious as the _somebody_ who thought of the plan.
+Without kites, they could never have got to the top of Pompey’s pillar.
+You know, mother, that Belzoni was at Alexandria. Did he see the pillar?
+
+MRS. A.--I cannot tell, my dear; I do not recollect that he mentions
+it: but he was at Alexandria more than once, for he took the obelisk
+thither which he discovered in the island of Philoe.
+
+EMILY.--Do, dear mother, tell us something about that obelisk: I was
+quite interested to know what became of it. Belzoni left it in the
+island of Philoe, on his return from Ybsambul, and gave the Aga four
+dollars to pay a guard for it, till he could procure a boat to convey
+it down the Nile.
+
+OWEN.--The obelisk was lying among several blocks of stones; it was
+made of granite, and was twenty-two feet long. Go on, if you please,
+mother.
+
+MRS. A.--I dare say you recollect that we left Belzoni at Gournou. He
+did not remain there very long, but went up the Nile to Assouan.
+
+The old town of Assouan stands on a hill which overhangs the river, and
+is on the opposite side of the Nile to the first Cataract, and Philoe
+is in the Nile between them.
+
+Belzoni went to this island, to take a view of the bank where he had to
+embark the obelisk. In a few days he set the men to work, and procured
+a boat to put it in. The greatest difficulty seemed to be to persuade
+the captain to have the boat launched down the Cataract, which it
+necessarily must be, with the obelisk on board. However, the promise
+of a handsome present procured an assurance that he would accomplish
+the undertaking. He had some little trouble to procure a few sticks or
+small poles from Assouan, as there is no wood in these places, except
+what they procure from Cairo. He had also some difficulty in removing
+the obelisk from its situation; but once put on its way, it soon came
+to the water side.
+
+Belzoni gave orders for a sort of temporary pier to be made of large
+blocks of stone. When finished, no doubt arose of its being strong
+enough for the weight it had to support. But, alas! when the obelisk
+came gradually on from the sloping bank, and the heavy mass rested
+on it, the pier, with the obelisk and some of the men, took a slow
+movement, and, to Belzoni’s dismay, descended majestically into the
+river.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+EMILY.--Now it is there, it is done for! But how much mortified poor
+Belzoni must have been! Why did he not make himself sure that the pier
+was quite secure?
+
+MRS. A.--He had no reason to doubt but what it was. It is true he was
+not present during its erection, because he was gone to examine a
+passage in the Cataract, down which the boat would have to be launched;
+and now it was too late. When he fixed his eyes upon the spot where the
+pier set off into the Nile, he observed that the stones which were to
+serve as a foundation on a sloping back, had been only laid on the
+surface of it, so that it was almost impossible for the obelisk to do
+otherwise than press it down into the river.
+
+OWEN.--Well, it was a very unfortunate thing; and all these reflections
+are now of no use! The obelisk from Philoe is there, and there it must
+stay!
+
+MRS. A.--Belzoni was not quite so full of despair as you are, Owen. He
+was certainly extremely mortified at this unfortunate occurrence, and,
+being only three yards off when it happened, he stood for some minutes
+in confusion and astonishment. At length, the loss of such a piece
+of antiquity, and the blame that would be attached to him by other
+antiquaries, occurred to his recollection, and he resolved to try what
+could be done. He generally succeeded in whatever he undertook; and
+often proved the truth of our motto, “_Labour conquers all!_”
+
+The obelisk was still peeping a little above the water. The labourers
+were of various humours: some were sorry, not for the obelisk, which
+was no loss to them, but for the loss of what they might have gained
+in future operations, by passing it down the Cataract: others were
+laughing, probably at the evident disappointment expressed in the
+countenance of our friend. Some went one way, and some another; and he
+remained alone, absorbed in thought, contemplating the little part that
+projected out of the water, and meditating upon the possibility of once
+more placing it upon the dry land.
+
+He reflected, indeed, that he was as badly off as he had been with
+Young Memnon, in being destitute of any instruments; and that the
+palm-leaf ropes which he had with him were broken, and old, and of
+little use. However, he soon made up his mind to have the obelisk taken
+up at all events; and accordingly ordered the men to come the next
+morning, and sent to Assouan to procure some new ropes for the purpose.
+
+The labourers were excellent watermen, and could bear the water the
+whole day without difficulty; so Belzoni had the advantage in this
+respect. The following morning the work commenced. Several men entered
+the river, and made a great heap of stones on the side of the obelisk
+opposite to the shore, so as to form a bed for the levers to rest upon.
+
+He then placed the levers under the obelisk, so that by their pressure
+it was forced to turn round upon its axis, or, to be more particular,
+one end of the long poles, called the levers, passed under the obelisk,
+and a short distance from that end, they rested upon the rock of stones
+which thus formed a fulcrum for the levers to turn upon; the men seated
+themselves on the other extremity, and their weight caused the obelisk
+to turn gently round and round, until it reached the dry ground.
+
+Two ropes were also passed under it, and the men on shore pulled the
+two ends of these ropes with all their might. At the side where the
+levers were, some good divers were stationed, who were ready to put
+large stones under the obelisk as it rose, that it might not return to
+its former situation.
+
+You can fancy how busy they all looked. The men at the ropes were
+pulling with all their strength; those on the rocks were rising and
+sitting, to make the levers act; and the divers were placing stone
+after stone, whilst the obelisk was gradually rising and moving round
+at each turn by its own weight. So they go on, until, to Belzoni’s
+great joy, he beholds it once more on _terra firma_. Where it was in
+the course of two days; but another difficulty awaits it before it
+reaches Alexandria, and that is descending the Cataract.
+
+It was yet to be embarked, and this time the operation was performed
+by means of a bridge of palm-trees, thrown from across the boat to
+the land under the obelisk, which was then turned on the bridge, and
+placed on board; when in the centre of the boat the trees were moved
+from under it; and no sooner was this done than the party set off with
+the obelisk, to have it ready to be launched down the Cataract the next
+morning.
+
+It had to descend the greatest fall of water in the Cataract. When the
+inundation is half high in the Nile, it is a column of water about
+three hundred yards in length, which falls among rocks and stones
+projecting in various directions. The boat was brought to the margin of
+the cascade; a strong rope, or rather a small cable, was fastened to a
+large tree, the end of which was passed through the beams of the boat,
+so as to be slackened or stopped at pleasure. In the boat there were
+only five men; and on the rocks on each side of the cascade a number
+of others in various places, with ropes attached to the boat, so as
+to put it either to one side or other, as it required, to prevent its
+running against the stones; for you know if it had been touched ever so
+slightly, with such a weight on board, and in such a rapid stream, the
+boat would probably have been dashed to pieces.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The rope Belzoni had got from Assouan was only sufficient to check its
+course, and when the boat was moving so rapidly, any attempt to _stop_
+its progress would have made the water run in and sink it in a moment.
+Under these circumstances, all depended upon the dexterity of the
+men who were posted in various parts to pull or slacken as necessity
+required. Belzoni did not fail to use all the persuasion possible, and
+the wild people, as he calls them, were upon this occasion as careful
+as so many pilots.
+
+The Reis, or owner of the boat, was in great distress, thinking it
+would certainly be lost. He had engaged his vessel merely because it
+happened that his trade failed; but when he saw the danger it was in,
+he cried like a child, and begged Belzoni would relinquish his project
+and return his boat to him in safety.
+
+Tears were certainly useless and not very manly, but we must remember
+that his livelihood, poor fellow, depended on his boat. When he saw
+it on the point of being launched, he threw himself with his face to
+the ground, and did not rise till it was out of danger. When all was
+ready, Belzoni gave the signal to slacken the cable.
+
+The boat moved forwards with great rapidity. The men on land slackened
+the rope, and it continued its course till it reached the end of the
+Cataract.
+
+The poor Reis was delighted; he did not lie on the ground any longer,
+but went full of joy to congratulate himself and Belzoni. The workmen
+altogether seemed pleased at the good success of the attempt, even
+independently of the interest they might derive from it. This was
+gratifying to our antiquary, for it is not very often that such
+feelings enter the bosoms of the Arabs.
+
+Having only two or three places of little danger to pass, they arrived
+safely at Assouan on the same day. Belzoni immediately prepared to
+depart from thence to Thebes; he quitted the boat, travelled by land,
+and took up his old residence at the tombs in Beban el Malook.
+
+The obelisk proceeded to Luxor, and from thence to Rosetta, where it
+remained some time.
+
+Belzoni had written to Mrs. Belzoni, to tell her that he could not go
+into Syria, and she had in consequence returned from Jerusalem, and now
+waited to welcome his arrival in the valley.
+
+I once told you, as you perhaps recollect, that the entrance into the
+newly-discovered tomb was situated under a small torrent of water,
+which, when it rains, runs into it. This is not often the case in
+Egypt, but it so happened that whilst Belzoni was absent up the Nile
+it did rain, and consequently the water ran into the tomb, carrying
+with it a great deal of mud, and damaging some of the figures. However,
+this disaster could not be remedied. Belzoni completed his models and
+drawings, and with some difficulty removed the great sarcophagus and
+put it into a strong case. The place it had to pass to reach the Nile
+was rather uneven for more than two miles, but it was conveyed on
+rollers, and put safely on board. Under this sarcophagus there was a
+staircase communicating with a subterraneous passage leading downwards,
+three hundred feet in length; at the end of which a quantity of rubbish
+had fallen in and choked up the passage. Belzoni conjectured that this
+formed another entrance to the tomb, though it must have been closed
+after the sarcophagus was placed there, as there was a wall built just
+under the sarcophagus, and large blocks of stone were placed on a level
+with the floor which completely cut off all communication between the
+chamber and the subterraneous passage.
+
+Our traveller was now about to bid a final adieu to Thebes. Before he
+embarked he retraced the scenes which had yielded him so much delight;
+he paid a melancholy visit to the magnificent remains of ancient
+grandeur; gazed for the last time upon the temples and columns which
+have triumphed over the corroding influence of the universal ravager;
+and beheld the valley, the place in which his labours had been crowned
+with so much success, with painful feelings and mingled emotions
+of pleasure and regret. He left the spot so long known, and so long
+endeared to him, in January 1819, and arrived in Cairo the following
+month. At this place they stopped only a few days, and continued
+their voyage to Rosetta, where, taking the obelisk with them, they
+re-embarked on board a djerm, and arrived in the course of a short time
+at Alexandria, whence they intended to take passage for Europe.
+
+They did not quit Alexandria immediately, and if you please we may yet
+accompany our friend in another journey that he took to visit a temple
+in the western Desert: we have not yet been on that side of the Nile.
+
+The temple of Jupiter Ammon had been an object of search for a long
+time, and by more than one traveller, but the true spot where it
+existed had not yet been fixed upon, and to discover this, as well as
+to visit some pyramids, and search for the famous Labyrinth, presented
+grand attractions to Belzoni.
+
+Jupiter Ammon was one of the gods in the Egyptian Mythology. He was
+worshipped under the figure of a ram, and this temple was dedicated to
+him.
+
+Having left Mrs. Belzoni in Rosetta, our traveller took a small boat
+and proceeded to Benisoeuf, where he arrived in nine days. You will
+find this place on the map a long way south of Cairo.
+
+Belzoni was accompanied by a servant and a Moorish Hajji, which is a
+title given to those Mohamedans who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca.
+This one was just returned from Mecca and begged to be allowed to join
+him. At Benisoeuf they procured donkeys to take them as far as the Lake
+Mœris. They set off on the same day, and directed their course through
+a large plain of cultivated land, of corn and other products of the
+country. This plain was all under water at the time of the inundation,
+excepting the scattered villages which appeared like little islands as
+I have before described. A few miles from the Nile the mountains on the
+west are but low. They open and form a valley into a province called
+the Paioum; and it was at this entrance our party arrived on the first
+night of their journey.
+
+They took their station under some date trees near a canal that passes
+through the valley about two miles from the first pyramid. Here, after
+a little repast Belzoni went to sleep on his usual bed, a mattress thin
+enough to serve as a saddle when folded up, but forming, when laid on
+the soft ground, as comfortable a bed as he could desire. The servant,
+the Hajji, and the donkey drivers kept watch in their turn, and this
+plan was pursued during the whole of the journey.
+
+The next morning Belzoni again set off, and soon arrived at the
+pyramid. He found it was composed of burnt bricks, and about sixty
+feet in height, affording a fine prospect from the top. Our party then
+continued along the hills till they were opposite another pyramid of
+about the same size, surrounded by smaller tombs, and the remains of
+a magnificent Egyptian temple. The whole country was very fertile, and
+interspersed with plantations of fruit trees and roses.
+
+This place is celebrated for the making of rose-water, which is sold
+in Cairo, and all over the country, for the use of the great people,
+who continually keep their apartments sprinkled with it, and present it
+also to any stranger who visits them.
+
+You remember that when we were talking of the customs of the Egyptians,
+I told you that a slave generally carries a silver plate in which
+essences are burning to perfume the beard and sprinkle the visiters
+with them. For this purpose they use rose-water procured from the roses
+that grow in the valley around the Faioum.
+
+Next morning a soldier joined the party as guide, and they advanced
+towards the lake Mœris, but arrived only at Senures that night, a
+village ten miles from it.
+
+EMILY.--How very convenient maps are, mother; I can trace their route
+so well. Here is Benisoeuf on the Nile, where they hired the donkeys;
+and here is the chain of mountains, and a space left for the entrance
+between them into the Faioum: they have only just to cross this
+province to reach Birket Keroum, as the lake is called on the map; the
+pyramids themselves are marked, and I believe I know the very spot
+where the rose-trees grow, and the roses blow, but not to
+
+    “_Waste_ their sweetness on the desert air.”
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+    Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the
+    rocks near the lake.--Disturbs a hyena.--Account of the
+    famous Labyrinth.--Visit to the Elloah.--An interview with
+    Khalil Bey.--Account of the Bedouins.--Belzoni crosses the
+    Desert attended by Scheik Grumar.--Brought to a halt by a
+    sentinel with a musket.--Arrival at Zaboo.--Interview with
+    the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.--Belzoni goes to their
+    village.--Discovers the seat of the temple.--Meets with
+    an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.--Reaches
+    Benisoeuf.--Arrives at Cairo.--Embarks for Europe.--Returns to
+    England.
+
+
+Leaving Senures the following morning, our travellers proceeded on
+their journey, and after passing through several groves of palm-trees,
+the view opened all at once on a wild country gradually sloping to
+the edge of the lake. The water extended some way on each side, and
+the mountains opposite had an awful and sterile appearance. At noon
+they reached the lake, but could observe no trace of any living being.
+The guide conducted them along the shore, till they arrived at a
+fisherman’s hut situated near the place where the canal discharges
+itself into the lake. The hut was inhabited by a few poor fishermen and
+a soldier, who formerly received the duties on the fish they caught;
+but now, the fishermen have only a share of the fish they catch, and
+the remainder is sold at Medinet, of which the Pasha receives the
+profit. The guide sent one of the fishermen for a boat, the only one to
+be had, but the shabbiest thing imaginable. It was composed of rough
+pieces of wood scarcely joined, and fastened by four other pieces,
+wrapped together by four more across, which formed the deck; no tar,
+no pitch, either inside or out, and the only preventive against the
+water coming in was a kind of weed moistened, which had settled in the
+joints of the wood. However, there was no alternative; Belzoni wished
+to cross the lake, and he was obliged to submit to what he could not
+help. Having made an agreement with the owner of the boat, who might
+have passed for old _Charon_ the ferryman of the Styx in ancient
+mythology, they put on board some provisions, and advanced towards the
+west, where the famous Labyrinth is supposed to have been situated. The
+water of the lake was good enough to drink, though a little saltish;
+but it was only this year that it could be drunk at all, owing to the
+extraordinary overflow of the Nile, which surmounted all the high
+lands, and came in such torrents into the lake that it raised the water
+twelve feet higher than it ever had been in the memory of the oldest
+fisherman. As evening came on, the plantations and groves disappeared,
+the lake and the mountains alone remained in sight, and when they
+reached the shore, the owner of the boat, who accompanied them as
+pilot, lighted a fire, whilst the others went out to fish with a net,
+and soon returned with a supper of fish.
+
+The land where they now were had formerly been cultivated, as there
+appeared many stumps of palm and other trees, and around them wild
+vines twined their luxuriant tendrils in profusion. The scene here
+was beautiful; the silence of the night; the beams of the radiant
+moon shining on the calm surface of the crystal lake; the group of
+fishermen; the little fire; altogether formed a picture which Belzoni
+had never before in reality witnessed, though I know not how often his
+lively imagination had painted such a scene.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+However, morning came: they entered their shattered vessel, which
+nevertheless conveyed them safely till they arrived near the end of
+the lake, where they landed, and Belzoni, taking two of the boatmen,
+set off for the temple of Haron, about three miles distant, standing
+in the midst of the ruins of a town, and surrounded by fragments of
+columns and other temples. Part of the town was covered with sand; on
+one side of it there was something like a gateway, and a little way off
+a Greek chapel, elevated on a platform with cellars under it. After
+having taken a proper view of the temple and the town, Belzoni went
+to see this small Greek chapel, accompanied by the two boatmen; and
+not apprehending any danger, left his gun and pistols in the temple;
+but he now nearly suffered for his thoughtlessness; for just as he was
+mounting the little steps that led to the platform of the chapel, a
+large and furious hyena rushed from the apartments beneath; stopped
+three or four yards from him, howled dreadfully, and then turned round
+as if determined to attack him.
+
+The fierce animal appeared on second thoughts to relinquish its intent,
+for, after having shown him its teeth, it gave a hideous roar, and
+galloped away as fast as it could.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Belzoni says that at the moment he regretted having left his gun and
+pistols in the temple, but was happy to see it gone; he attributed its
+flight to the noise made by the two boatmen who were near at the time.
+Having surveyed the temple, and escaped other dangers, he returned with
+his attendants to the boat. A high wind rose which swelled the lake
+very much, drifted the sand into the air, and drove their boat on shore
+at the spot they had left in the morning. They there collected plenty
+of wood, made a fire, and passed the night under shelter of a mat hung
+over two sticks planted in the ground.
+
+They reimbarked in the morning and coasted the shores of the lake the
+whole day, but perceived nothing worthy of remark. There are a few
+spots near the water’s edge where great quantities of weeds grow from
+under the water, and large quantities of game are always found among
+these plants. The pelican is very common, and wild ducks. They saw
+fragments of pillars and ruins nearly under water. In the evening they
+returned to the same part of the shore and made an excellent supper
+of fresh fish and a piece of a pelican shot by a soldier. The flesh
+of this bird is not unlike mutton in appearance, and is tender and
+agreeable to the taste. but the fat is not pleasant, being rancid and
+yellow.
+
+Belzoni had heard that the situation of the labyrinth was on the
+west side of the lake Mœris, and he employed the few following days
+in making diligent researches in that part in hopes of finding some
+remains of it: but in vain, for not the smallest appearance of an
+edifice was to be seen.
+
+The labyrinth was a celebrated building, apparently designed as
+a pantheon of all the Egyptian gods that were worshipped in the
+provinces. This astonishing edifice contained no less than three
+thousand chambers, fifteen hundred of which were subterraneous, and set
+apart either for the sepulchres of the kings, or for the abodes of the
+sacred crocodiles. The passages were so numerous and intricate, the
+doors and entrances so many, the galleries and lobbies so extensive
+and almost innumerable, that it well deserved the designation of
+_labyrinth_, which word implies a place formed with inextricable
+windings.
+
+Belzoni failed in his endeavours to discover this wonderful structure;
+but as it was not of great height, the lower apartments being under
+ground, he concluded that it was probably buried by the earth which
+is yearly brought there by the water of the Nile. He had no doubt
+but it was somewhere there, from the number of stones, columns, and
+other relics of antiquity that were scattered about, some on the road,
+some in the houses of the Arabs, and others used in the erection
+of huts: all implying that some magnificent and splendid building
+had fallen to ruins. Having given up the attempt as fruitless, our
+enterprising traveller prepared for his journey into the Elloah on the
+west: accordingly he went to see Hussuff Bey, and to request he would
+procure a Bedouin guide to conduct him through the desert; he said
+that the Bedouins were all encamped in that part of the province which
+was subject to Khalil Bey; our old friend who formerly lived at Esne,
+and had the government of the Upper Provinces between that place and
+Assouan, but who had left Esne and now resided at Benisoeuf.
+
+Belzoni learned that the Bedouins were encamped about ten miles
+distant; he set off immediately, hoping to gain some information from
+them respecting the Elloah on the west: but was disappointed, for none
+of them knew any thing about it; however, they told him that one of
+their Scheiks, who lived in a camp a little way off, had a daughter
+married to one of the Scheiks of the Elloah. Belzoni fancied that
+this said Scheik would accompany him thither. He remained all night
+at the camp, and set off in the morning for the Nile again. He passed
+through bowers of roses, with which, as I have said before, they make
+the rose-water; the cotton plant was quite abundant, and figs were so
+plentiful that the people dried them in the sun and sent them to Cairo.
+It was night when they arrived on the banks of the Nile.
+
+Belzoni unfolded his saddle and slept on the ground again, and as
+soundly as you sleep upon a pillow of down; he was become so accustomed
+to inconvenient things as not to regard them. He proceeded on his
+journey the next morning, and went to see Khalil Bey, who was now
+commander of Benisoeuf. He was, as he had been before, very polite, and
+glad to render his friend any service in his power. Belzoni informed
+him that he wished to penetrate into the western desert; he directly
+complied with his request, and sent for the Scheik or the chief of the
+Bedouins. But the Scheik was not so punctual as Khalil, and did not
+arrive for two or three days; indeed, when he did come, he protested
+that he was unable to show him the road to the place he wished to
+visit. The Bey insisted that he should find some one in his camp who
+knew the road, which he of course promised to do, and it was agreed
+that Belzoni should meet Scheik Grumar at a village at the foot of the
+desert, whence he was to conduct him to the Elloah.
+
+The name of that village is Sedmin el Djabel, there the Bedouins were
+encamped, and among them Scheik Grumar, a tall stout man, six feet
+high, with a stern countenance, which bespoke a resolute mind and a
+sort of authority over those whom he considered beneath him.
+
+The Bedouins are a tribe of Arabs who live a wandering life without any
+settled habitation, but completely different from that of the Arabs of
+Egypt in general. They are divided into a great number of tribes, and
+distinguished by the names of their chiefs. Each tribe forms a sort
+of village, and each family has a tent or portable hut of its own.
+Their tents consist of four sticks set in the ground, about a yard
+in height, to which is fastened one of their shawls as a cover with
+another behind, so as to form a kind of shelter from the sun, wind, or
+dew. They generally pitch their camps in a fertile spot, but always at
+the foot of the mountains near the deserts; so that in case of surprise
+they may soon be in their native country.
+
+The men commonly wear a dark brown baracan, which covers them from head
+to foot. The women are likewise covered with a thick woollen garment,
+folded around them in an elegant manner.
+
+A baracan is a sort of large woollen shawl which constitutes the chief
+manufacture among the Arabs. The work is done by the women, who make no
+use of the shuttle, but conduct every thread with their fingers, and
+then with a machine they have in their hands, not unlike a wooden comb,
+press down each thread as they lay it across.
+
+EMILY.--The people of Mainarty use no shuttle, and I dare say they
+never heard of one, or they would not go without such a useful thing.
+
+What other employments have the Bedouins, mother?
+
+MRS. A.--The young boys and girls attend the flocks: the husband is
+engaged in tilling the ground, and the wife grinding at the mill,
+working at the loom, or dressing provisions. Their tents are not
+very sumptuous within; they are generally raised from the sand, which
+without any preparation serves for the floor of the apartment; so that
+when any one rises from this soft floor, with his large heavy flowing
+baracan, he may raise a cloud of dust enough to eclipse the whole
+family.
+
+When the Bedouins wish to converse they do not sit at their ease, as we
+do, upon sofas or chairs, without any ceremony, but place themselves in
+a formal circle on the ground: the man who speaks first makes a smooth
+place with his hand on the sand, and continues the conversation with
+his fingers, making spots, and strokes, and points, as required. When
+they meet each other, they exclaim, “_Salem Aleike_,” “Peace be with
+you,” clapping at the same time the right hand on the heart.
+
+Now we will return to Belzoni. He was just arrived at the camp of the
+Bedouins; and the proud Scheik Grumar was going to attend him through
+the desert.
+
+They exchanged their donkeys for camels, and advanced towards the west,
+passed through several rocky valleys, and slept the first night under
+a sand bank: the second night the foliage of some palm-trees afforded
+them shelter; and in the morning, continuing their course, they came to
+a wide open plain of sand and stones, with several heaps piled above
+the rest. These were tumuli, but nothing of the temple of Jupiter Ammon
+was to be seen. They went on until at noon they saw a high hill at a
+distance, and soon after the guide pointed out the rocks of the Elloah.
+In the afternoon to their great joy they saw two crows.
+
+We can see plenty of crows every day in this country, but had we
+been in Belzoni’s place we might have been equally rejoiced, for the
+appearance of these birds was a sure sign that water was not far off, a
+great treat to the traveller in a hot sandy desert.
+
+The Elloah, which I have mentioned several times, is a valley
+surrounded by high rocks, which form a spacious plain of twelve miles
+long, almost covered with sand; some small hills, overgrown with rushes
+and other plants, are scattered here and there, and the temple of which
+Belzoni was in search was supposed to have been in or near this spot.
+Our travellers advanced towards a forest of date trees, situated near a
+village named Zaboo, and all of them were exceedingly thirsty. Before
+the camels arrived they scented the water at some distance, and set off
+at full gallop, without stopping till they reached a rivulet, where,
+having alighted for a short time to allow the camels to drink, Belzoni
+observed a certain uneasiness in the manner of Scheik Grumar, for which
+he did not know how to account.
+
+OWEN.--Had he been an Arab of Gournou, I should have thought that some
+bad design had entered his head: but he was an honest Bedouin, you
+know. I want to hear what reason he had for behaving so. Go on, if you
+please, mother.
+
+MRS. A.--Belzoni went farther down the rivulet to drink too, and after
+having watered the camels, they were about to proceed slowly towards
+the village; but no sooner were they mounted than they heard some one
+calling to them, and at the same moment a man rushed out of the bushes
+with a gun, and put himself into an attitude as if to fire upon them.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+His appearance was not very terrifying, nor did his dress bespeak
+him to be a person of much consequence. He was not more than four
+feet high, of a chocolate colour (as the Bedouins generally are,) and
+covered with a black woollen cloth. The Scheik immediately dismounted,
+speaking to him in the Arabic dialect. The man recognised him, and
+Belzoni was pleased to observe they appeared friendly towards each
+other. The man was anxious to learn of whom the party consisted: the
+guide told him that they were people in search of old stones: to which
+he replied that no one ever came there to seek for old stones, and he
+did not know what the Scheiks of Zaboo, the village to which they were
+going, would think of it; he said also that he had intended to shoot
+Belzoni while he was kneeling to drink at the spring. It was well that
+Scheik Grumar was with him, for if that mysterious little man had not
+recognised him, he might have carried his design into execution.
+
+They continued to advance towards Zaboo, and the man began to walk
+before them; but when they had nearly reached the village, he ran off
+as fast as he could into a wood of palm-trees. Our travellers now
+entered a valley, which formed a most pleasing contrast to the barren
+scenes of the desert, for it was full of date and palm-trees, some
+covered with blossom, and others loaded with fruit; apricots scented
+the air with their mellow fragrance; figs, almonds, and grapes grew in
+profusion; the ground was covered with verdure, and here and there a
+spot of cultivated land was seen waving with rice. On their approaching
+a wide place the guide halted and desired them to wait till his return;
+he walked on, and Belzoni perceived that he went into a kind of
+habitation at some distance.
+
+OWEN.--I am sure if I had been Belzoni I would never have waited there
+at the pleasure of Scheik Grumar.
+
+MRS. A.--The poor Scheik seems no favourite of yours, perhaps you will
+alter your mind presently.
+
+Half an hour passed and he did not return: Belzoni inquired of the
+drivers where the guide was gone; they replied they did not know.
+Another hour passed, no Scheik appeared; Belzoni was tired of waiting,
+and set off with his gun towards the place which he had seen the guide
+enter, but before he reached the spot he heard the voices of men,
+women, and children; and when he came nearer he saw a wall enclosing
+a great many houses, and just within the gates there was a yard, in
+which were assembled all the chiefs of the villages, and many others,
+sitting on the ground, debating whether or not the stranger should be
+admitted, and the guide very busy in persuading them that they were but
+harmless people, and only come there to look after old stones.
+
+OWEN.--My opinion is changed, mother, I did not much like the conduct
+of the Scheik at first, but it seems he wished to make friends with the
+inhabitants of Zaboo, and that he was a brave fellow after all. I will
+not form a judgment so soon another time.
+
+MRS. A.--Endeavour to adhere to your resolution, my dear boy: for it is
+not wise to form an unfavourable opinion upon too slight a foundation.
+
+On the arrival of Belzoni, there whole attention was turned towards
+him, and a perfect silence ensued. He walked straight forward, when
+they all rose without speaking a word, and gazed upon him in wonder and
+astonishment. He inquired who was their Scheik, when his guide pointed
+out three or four old men, telling him they were the Scheiks of the
+place. Belzoni shook hands with them; some of the people received him
+with good humour, and others went away murmuring. They inquired what he
+wanted. He told them he was a stranger, and merely came to visit the
+place, as he expected to find some stones belonging to his ancestors,
+and hoped they should be friends. At the same time he sent his guide
+to fetch the camels, and on their arrival ordered coffee to be made.
+A fine carpet was spread upon the ground, and they became sociable by
+degrees: in a short time the rest of the village had assembled; cows,
+camels, sheep, donkeys, men, women, and children, all gazing upon him
+in amazement.
+
+They were acquainted with Turks and other tribes of Arabs, but had
+never seen a Christian, or Frank, as they are called here. They told
+Belzoni that he would see nothing there, but must go somewhere else;
+it seemed that they did not like the thought of his searching for
+stones. However they gave him a large bowl of rice for his supper, and
+he lighted a wax candle, which surprised them very much, as they had
+never seen a candle before; but they used him rather shabbily, for
+without saying a single word they all rose up and walked off with the
+candle, leaving him in the dark, with his carpet and saddle to sleep
+on. This circumstance did not disturb his repose, and the next morning,
+after some little difficulty, and many assurances that stones and not
+treasures were the objects of his search, Belzoni set off through a
+thick wood of palm-trees, and traversed many sandy plains, barren
+deserts, ruined edifices, and old towns; but no temple of Jupiter Ammon
+was to be seen, and he returned half in despair to Zaboo.
+
+By this time the inhabitants of the village of El Cassar, which is only
+separated from Zaboo by a high rock, were informed that a stranger
+had arrived there in search of treasure. They were all in an uproar
+immediately, and protested that he should never enter their village.
+
+A man who lived half way between the two villages, and occasionally
+reported what was passing from one to the other, came to Belzoni and
+said there was a very large temple in the other village, which excited
+his curiosity; so he got the man to take a message from him to the
+Scheik and Kadee, and tell them that he came to the Elloah to visit
+them; that he was not a soldier, and that they would gratify him by
+appointing a place where they might meet him the next morning. He then
+returned to the village, and the man to his habitation on the side of
+the rock.
+
+The next morning our friend was informed that these two great people
+were coming towards Zaboo. He of course thought it favourable
+intelligence, and hastened to meet them. The Scheik of the Elloah came
+first; he was a good-natured looking man, on horseback, dressed in red
+striped linen cloth, with pistols and gun: the Kadee (Kadee signifies
+judge or justice of peace) was a rough looking fellow, clothed in green
+cloth and turban, and accoutred like his companion. After those two
+mighty personages came about twenty horsemen, and as many foot, all
+well armed. Having reached the village they dismounted, some mats were
+brought and the chiefs seated themselves whilst the attendants stood
+around. Belzoni presented the usual salute, _Salem Aleike_, and was
+requested to sit down among them. They became very anxious to know what
+had brought him there, making many inquiries, and it was a long time
+before they could be assured that to search for antiquities was his
+only motive.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At last, however, Belzoni gained his end, and obtained permission to
+enter their village. Having made a repast of coffee, the chiefs set
+off, and when they were gone our antiquary prepared to follow them. He
+commenced his journey before sunset, passed over the sandy banks on
+the west of the village, crossed the plain, ascended the rocks which
+separate the two villages, and reached El Cassar on the evening of the
+next day. He was received by the Scheik, who was become quite friendly
+towards him, with somewhat like English hospitality; he begged him to
+sleep at his house, and sent him a large bowl of rice for his supper.
+Accordingly Belzoni accepted his invitation, though I do not know that
+he reposed more soundly upon the Scheik’s mat than he had often done
+under a sand bank, or upon a sugar-cane bed.
+
+The house of the Scheik was similar to the others, being made of mud;
+a few beams of palm-tree laid across formed the roof, on the top of
+which was thrown a great quantity of straw with old mats over. They had
+much conversation together, and the Scheik told Belzoni in confidence,
+that it was the father of the Kadee who had so strongly objected to his
+visiting the ruins in their village.
+
+On the following morning, a long consultation took place whether he
+should or should not be allowed to examine them; at length it was
+settled for the old man himself to accompany him, and they set off
+together. When they arrived at the spot, Belzoni was much gratified
+by observing many ruins and fragments, which showed that there had
+evidently been some magnificent edifice, and though little remained, he
+returned highly delighted, in the assurance that he had discovered the
+seat of the celebrated temple of Jupiter Ammon.
+
+Before he returned to Zaboo, he expressed his gratitude to the old man
+who had conducted him to the ruins; made several presents of coral,
+soap, and coffee to the Kadee and the good-natured Scheik, and parted
+great friends with all the people at the village of El Cassar.
+
+An unfortunate accident happened to him as he was ascending the rock he
+had to pass on his way to Zaboo. His camel slipped its foot on one side
+and rolled down the rock the height of about twenty feet, taking his
+rider of course with him. This was a sad event for these rocks were not
+so soft as the sandy spot in Wady el Gomal, where his camel threw him
+before.
+
+Belzoni was very much bruised, and conveyed on a donkey to Zaboo, and
+there carried to the house of a Scheik, where he was accommodated in
+a narrow passage which led from the street door to a yard behind the
+house, his saddle as usual forming his only bed. This was a miserable
+place for any one in his condition, for the men, women, children,
+buffaloes, cows, donkeys, goats, and dogs, passed backwards and
+forwards continually, totally regardless of him.
+
+In the course of a few days, though his side was still painful, they
+proceeded once more, and by short stages arrived in about a week in the
+valley of the Nile at the Bahr Yousef, which if you remember they had
+crossed before: on the evening of the same day they reached Sedmin.
+
+EMILY.--Ah, Sedmin el Djabel, at the foot of the range of low mountains
+which forms the skirt of the desert, and where he had engaged his guide
+Scheik Grumar; then he was pretty near Benisoeuf, mother, and when he
+gets there I expect his old friend Khalil Bey will take care of him,
+and be very glad to see him too.
+
+MRS. A.--They arrived at Benisoeuf the next day. Belzoni did not remain
+long at that place, but embarked for Cairo, and thence proceeded to
+Rosetta. Mrs. Belzoni was there, and she could take better care of him
+than any one else.
+
+At length, having settled all his affairs in Egypt, in 1819 our
+enterprising traveller embarked for Europe. After an absence of twenty
+years, he returned to his native country, and into the bosom of his
+family; from whence he departed for England; and I think we owe him
+many thanks for the amusement and instruction his “Researches” have
+afforded us.
+
+BERNARD.--So he actually reached England at last! And I learn from your
+account, mother, that perseverance will enable us to do great things,
+which without it could never be done!
+
+EMILY.--And I am glad, mother, to find you have proved the truth of
+your assertion, that patience conquers difficulties, and crowns all our
+endeavours with success.
+
+OWEN.--Belzoni was quite a boy when his attention was first turned
+to hydraulics; otherwise he might never have gone into Egypt, for he
+went there, you know, mother, in hopes of convincing the Bashaw that
+an hydraulic machine would be of use to irrigate his fields. Had he
+not done so, the great pyramid might have remained unopened a thousand
+years longer: the tomb of Psammuthis, in the valley of Beban el Malook,
+might never had been explored; and _we_ should never have heard this
+amusing narrative of Belzoni’s discoveries in Egypt and Nubia.
+
+MRS. A.--You see how much depends upon our youthful pursuits.
+
+    “And thus it is--no plainer truth appears,
+    OUR MOST IMPORTANT ARE OUR EARLIEST YEARS.”
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+SCHOOL DISTRICT LIBRARY,
+
+PUBLISHED BY
+
+C. S. FRANCIS & CO. NEW YORK.
+
+
+A detailed account of the contents and character of these works, and
+the price of each, may be found in “The Literary Advertiser” of the
+publishers, which is furnished gratis, either in New York or Boston.
+
+
+LIBRARY OF ENTERTAINING AND USEFUL READING,
+
+Twelve volumes, large 18mo. 288 pages each, namely,
+
+  1. THE MIRROR                        with 22 Engravings.
+  2. THE CABINET                            39     ”
+  3. THE CASKET                             37     ”
+  4. THE TREASURY                           34     ”
+  5. THE BUDGET                             23     ”
+  6. THE REPERTORY                          33     ”
+  7. THE TABLET                             31     ”
+  8. THE MEMORIAL                           36     ”
+  9. THE GLEANER                            30     ”
+  10. THE EMPORIUM                          33     ”
+  11. THE SELECTOR                          27     ”
+  12. THE GALAXY                            26     ”
+
+
+LIBRARY OF INSTRUCTIVE AMUSEMENT,
+
+Six volumes, 18mo. 336 pages each, namely,
+
+  13. YOUNG MAN’S EVENING BOOK         with 50 Engravings
+  14. WINTER EVENING BOOK                   61     ”
+  15. SUMMER DAY BOOK                       72     ”
+  16. EVERY DAY BOOK                        71     ”
+  17. PARLOUR BOOK                          27     ”
+  18. LEISURE HOUR BOOK                     55     ”
+
+  19. BELZONI’S TRAVELS IN EGYPT, with Plates.
+  20. TRUE STORIES FROM HISTORY. By a Lady.
+  21. 22. AROUND THE WORLD, by an Officer of the Navy.
+  23. 24. ZENOBIA, or the Full of Palmyra.
+  25-28. LIFE OF WALTER SCOTT, by J. G. Lockhart.
+  29. SANDFORD AND MERTON, _Corrected_, Pictorial ed.
+  30-39. PARLEY’S MAGAZINE. 10 large volumes.
+
+Price of the whole set $20.
+
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+of the State of New York, and the introduction of them all into the
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+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes.
+
+Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=.
+Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
+
+Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected
+silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised.
+
+A reiteration of the title has been discarded.
+
+A single footnote has been moved to the end of the relevant chapter.
+
+To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between
+paragraphs, adjacent to the text that they illustrate.
+
+A publishers bookplate and advertisement have been moved to the end of
+the book.
+
+Cover art created for this eBook is granted to the public domain.
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 ***