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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 ***
+
+
+
+
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+
+Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+Small caps in the text is denoted by UPPERCASE.
+
+Superscript text is denoted by text preceded by a caret.
+Example: C^o.
+
+Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration:
+  G.T. Vigne delṭ
+
+  NIAGARA.
+
+  T.S. Engleheart.sculpṭ
+]
+
+
+
+
+                               SIX MONTHS
+
+                                   IN
+
+                                AMERICA.
+
+
+
+
+                               SIX MONTHS
+
+                                   IN
+
+                                AMERICA.
+
+                                   BY
+
+                         GODFREY T. VIGNE, ESQ.
+
+                   OF LINCOLN’S INN, BARRISTER AT LAW.
+
+                                 VOL. I.
+
+
+                                 LONDON:
+                       WHITTAKER, TREACHER, & CO.
+                             AVE MARIA LANE.
+
+                                  1832.
+
+
+
+
+                                 LONDON:
+            Manning and Co., Printers, 4, London House Yard,
+                               St. Pauls.
+
+
+
+
+SIX MONTHS IN AMERICA.
+
+
+  READER,
+
+I will not inflict upon you the penalty of preface or dedication, being
+fully persuaded that you would care for neither; and therefore if
+you are disposed to follow me to America, I will inform you at once,
+that after having seen the greater part of Europe, I went on board
+the packet, George Canning, on the 24th of March, 1831, and sailed
+from Liverpool for New York, with my note-book, sketch-book, gun, and
+fishing rod—alone, unbewifed and unbevehicled, as a man ought to
+travel, and with the determination of being, as far as an Englishman
+can be, unprejudiced; and of seeing all I could of the United States in
+the space of about six months.
+
+Having said this, I beg of you to remember that I do not profess to
+tell you what may be seen in a year. I may be allowed to mention,
+that the George Canning is one of the best of the twenty-six packets
+that sail from Liverpool to different parts of North America. Every
+possible comfort and every reasonable luxury is at the command of the
+passenger; and, whether he be confined to his state-room from the
+effects of sea-sickness, or indulging a most Atlantic appetite, and
+quaffing champagne to the memory of Columbus, he cannot fail at the end
+of his voyage to be loud in the praises of her excellent commander,
+Captain Allyn. We saw an average number of young whales, but contrived
+to miss the icebergs and the sea-serpent; and after an excellent
+passage of twenty-three-days (the voyage from Liverpool, at this season
+of the year, being scarcely ever less than thirty), we sailed through
+the Narrows into the splendid bay of New York. The passage so named is
+about three quarters of a mile in width, and defended by four or five
+hundred pieces of cannon. The most prominent object is a diamond-shaped
+fort, which appears to rise out of the water, and is called Fort La
+Fayette, because it fired its first salute in honour of that General,
+upon his arrival on the shores of America in 1824. The fort on the New
+Jersey side, as if in opposition to its French-named antagonist, is
+known by the very English name of Fort Tomkins.
+
+On the Long Island beach is seen New Utrecht, a small sea-bathing
+place, and celebrated as the spot where the British troops, under
+the command of Sir Henry Clinton, were landed without opposition,
+previously to their attack of New York in 1776. Numerous vessels of
+different sizes that had been detained outside by contrary winds, were
+working their way through the Narrows at the same time, and presented
+a most animating spectacle. They were from all parts of the world; the
+sun shone full upon their white sails; the broad bright pine-streak
+reddened beneath his declining rays, and added a characteristic
+elegance to the appearance of the American ships, which taken as a
+class, are certainly handsomer than those of any other nation. That the
+trim and figure of a British merchantman are usually inferior to those
+of America, is owing to the circumstance of there being no tonnage-duty
+in America; and therefore, their ships are constructed for the
+carriage of a given number of tons with the greatest speed; but by the
+British method of rating their ships, a merchantman can be constructed
+so as to carry more than her legal tonnage without paying for it; of
+which John Bull very properly takes advantage by swelling out his ships
+as much as possible, so long as he can avoid the liability of being
+charged at a higher rate.
+
+We had scarcely entered the bay when the wind dropped; steam-boats
+were plying in all directions, and one of them coming alongside, I
+was glad to avail myself of her assistance, and arrived at New York
+before sunset. Within two minutes after I had landed I found myself
+in the Broadway, the principal street and promenade in the city. At
+two o’clock on every fine day, all the fashion and too-gaily dressed
+beauty of New York are to be seen there. It contains the finest shops,
+and altogether has a very lively and city-like appearance, which,
+nevertheless, suffers considerably on account of the houses being
+mostly built of red brick. Its width, I should say, is about the same
+as that of Oxford-street; in length it is, or rather will be when
+finished, about three miles. The courts of justice hold their sittings
+in the city-hall, a large and handsome building of Massachusetts white
+marble and brown free-stone, which stands in the centre of what is
+called the Park, a green open space on the side of the Broadway. The
+prison, a gloomy-looking structure, is too conspicuous, and exceedingly
+handy, being so near to it that a “ponte de ’i sospiri” might be thrown
+across from one to the other with great effect. But it is not in the
+contemplation of the most refined and magnificent works of art, that
+the European traveller in the United States must expect to derive
+his principal gratification. The public buildings in New York for
+the different purposes of charity, education, and commerce, are very
+numerous; but there are none that can lay claim to his particular
+attention: in a few hours, with a little assistance from a cabriolet
+or an omnibus, he might see all that is worth his notice in the city,
+considered merely as a collection of buildings, containing 200,000
+inhabitants. It is the extraordinary energy and urgency of commerce
+that will chiefly attract his attention. The wharfs on the North
+river are flanked by superb steam-boats, daily and hourly employed
+in the conveyance of thousands; those on the East river, by double
+and triple lines of the most beautiful merchantmen; while the three
+streets which run successively parallel to them might be taken for
+one enormous warehouse, the pavement being nearly blocked up with
+merchandise from every country, and exhibiting a rattling and somewhat
+dangerous confusion of carts and cranes, that is quite beyond a
+“private gentleman’s belief,” till he has seen it. Although the actual
+numerical tonnage of the trade of New York is four times less than that
+of Liverpool, yet the appearance of bustle and business is far more
+striking at New York: the reason is, that there is so much more retail
+trade carried on in the latter city than in Liverpool, or any other
+city in the world. Innumerable boats descend the North river, laden
+with timber, or live and dead stock, and provisions for the markets of
+New York, and carry back a petty and varied cargo of wearing apparel
+and other necessaries that are wanted in the interior.
+
+Although Philadelphia is a larger place, the balance of trade between
+New York and that city is usually, if not always, in favour of New
+York. Imported goods sold at Philadelphia, on account of the New York
+merchants, are paid for in bills made payable at Philadelphia. The
+banks at New York discount these bills, which as they become due are
+satisfied on demand by payment in specie; so that there is a constant
+flow of hard dollars from Philadelphia to New York.
+
+In order to see the city in perfection, the North river must be
+crossed, and a fine view is obtained from any of the rising grounds
+on the opposite bank. But to include a distant view of the city and
+the bay in the same drawing, I should recommend a station on Staten
+Island, or on the opposite heights about Gowanus. On this head the
+British public will soon be satisfied. Before I quitted America, I was
+favoured with a sight of the most exact and admirable drawings to be
+used as materials for the next view at the Colosseum in the Regent’s
+Park, which I understood was to be that of New York and its environs.
+It is singular that, as in London, they should all have been taken from
+the top of St. Paul’s church. Unless I were anxious to write either an
+almanack or a guide-book, I think I need not here say more about New
+York; reserving for another place any remarks that apply generally to
+one city as well as another. I will merely add, that I should strongly
+recommend every one to visit the Museum before he commences a tour;
+and that the city contains two excellent theatres, of which that in
+the Park is the more fashionable: I heard the English version of the
+“Cenerentola” performed in very good style: I was delighted with the
+singing of our countrywoman. Mrs. Austin, and I laughed heartily at
+the drolleries of Mr. Hackett, who is an unrivalled mimic of the
+eccentricities of his countrymen. An Italian opera is confidently
+expected by the next season. At present the first society in New
+York, which is very good, is seldom to be seen at the theatre. In my
+ignorance, I was very much astonished the first evening I went there,
+at seeing a multitude of persons, who would have thought it a gross
+mistake not to have been taken for gentlemen, sitting occasionally in
+the front and almost always in the back seats of the dress circle,
+with their hats on, in the presence of ladies, who were scattered in
+different parts of the same box.
+
+Now, New York, if not the most refined, is certainly, strictly
+speaking, the most fashionable place in the Union, and it is not to be
+wondered at, that foreigners who have just landed from Europe and who
+very probably go to the theatre on the first evening of their arrival,
+should thence imbibe strange and unjust ideas of the best American
+manners. I have heard that common sense is the characteristic of the
+Americans; and I think there is great truth in the remark; but I do not
+like it when it is so _very_ common. These republican De Courcys are
+very fond of wearing their hats: I never was at church in the United
+States, without observing individuals (I do not say many), who would
+evidently have been very sorry to have been thought guilty of any
+impropriety, putting their hats on when the service was over, in the
+very body of the church. These are no trifles when considered as part
+of the national manners. But in the United States there is no standard
+for manners: their political independence is oftentimes imperceptibly
+identified with independence of behaviour that procures for individuals
+an unfavourable opinion, of which the men and their minds are alike
+unworthy.
+
+It was the twenty-third of April, St. George’s day, when I left New
+York to commence my tour; the members of the St. George’s Society were
+going to dine together, and the huge banner of the saint was waving
+from one of the upper windows of the City-hotel, as I emerged from
+the gloomy recesses, in enormous establishments ycleped single-bedded
+rooms, and proceeded to the wharf where the New Brunswick steamers are
+to be found, and where it is coolly and most intelligibly intimated to
+the traveller, in very large letters, that he can have “Transportation
+to Philadelphia,” at a very trifling expense. These steam-boats are
+necessarily very large; being frequently destined to carry three or
+even four hundred passengers: they are constructed in the best manner
+for obtaining the greatest proportionate space and a free circulation
+of air. They may fairly be said to be three-deckers. The working-beam
+is usually placed at a great height above the upper-deck, and the whole
+of the engine is so much raised that no inconvenience arises from the
+heat of the boilers. When one of these steamers is seen approaching
+from a distance, the confusion of green and white galleries gives
+it very much the appearance of a moving summer-house. The rapidity
+with which we moved across the bay procured me a constant change of
+scene: the banks were dotted with small villages, but I observed but
+few gentlemen’s seats. At a distance, on the right, stands the town
+of Newark, a considerable place, discernible by its white steeples.
+We passed Perth Amboy at the mouth of the Rariton river; the first
+British settlement in New Jersey. The governor’s house, the picquet and
+guard-house, can be seen from the river. The governor’s house resembles
+a Gloucestershire spinning mill. I was landed at New Brunswick, where
+I found conveyances awaiting the arrival of the steamer in order to
+carry its passengers across the country to Bordentown. Notwithstanding
+that this road is one of the principal thoroughfares between New
+York and Philadelphia, yet I was fairly and quickly jolted into the
+conviction that although it was probable I should travel over many that
+were as bad, yet that I could not by any possibility find one that was
+worse. Allowances are to be made for the roads I afterwards saw, in the
+back settlements; but the condition of this one was really disgraceful.
+There was a great deal of wood on every side; but it can hardly be
+called forest, being what is here termed second-growth wood. A great
+part of these lands had been cleared by the earlier settlers, but were
+allowed to remain uncultivated, and to be overgrown whenever a soil
+of greater fertility and sufficiently protected, was discovered in the
+interior of the country.
+
+Bordentown, is a small, but neat and pretty, village on the banks of
+the Delaware. On the outskirts is a large and rather irregular brick
+building at the extremity of a court-yard, which is flanked by stabling
+and other outhouses, with extensive gardens and pleasure grounds
+behind them, laid out a l’Anglais. This is the residence of the Count
+Survilliers, better known, in England at least, as Joseph Buonaparte.
+I was provided with an introduction to his Excellency, and paid him
+a morning visit. His reception of me was exceedingly courteous. The
+instant he appeared, I was most forcibly struck with the very strong
+resemblance he bore to the later portraits of Napoleon. His person, I
+should say, was rather larger; the expression of the eye was the same,
+though more subdued; the same hair, the same shaped head, and the same
+contour of feature generally, with a darker complexion, and a good
+set of teeth. I should say, the principal difference was observable
+in the mouth, which seemed more inclinable to the jocose than the
+sanguinary. After some conversation, which was carried on in French,
+and turned chiefly on the subject of European travel, his Excellency
+showed me his pictures, which are numerous and interesting. He has
+several fine Murillos, and a most beautiful Madonna by Vandyke. He has
+many portraits of his own family; among these is one of Napoleon in
+his coronation robes, and the well-known picture of the First Consul
+on horseback, crossing the Alps. I felt an emotion which I will not
+attempt to describe, when, as we passed round the room, he paused
+before the latter picture, and drew my attention to it, remarking
+that it was the original, by David. The cabinet of statues and
+mosaics is also very fine, and the collection altogether by far the
+best in America. His Excellency occasionally mixes in society both at
+New York and Philadelphia, and talks without reserve of his former
+situation, “Quand j’etais roi d’Espagne.” “Dans mes belles affaires,”
+are occasionally introduced in his conversation. By his advice I
+subsequently mounted the observatory in his grounds. Thence I enjoyed
+a very fine view of the country on the opposite side of the Delaware,
+whose broad and rapid stream was flowing beneath me; on the left, the
+river seemed to lose itself among the distant woods of Pennsylvania; on
+the right, at a distance of about six miles, is Trenton, made notorious
+by the daring passage of the Delaware, and the subsequent defeat and
+capture, of a body of Hessians, by General Washington, on the night
+of the 25th of December, 1776, during a violent storm, and when the
+danger of the revolutionists was at its crisis.
+
+Bordentown is about twenty-six miles from Philadelphia. The next day I
+proceeded to that city in a steam-boat, which stopped for passengers
+at every considerable village on the well-wooded, but flat and
+uninteresting, banks of the river. At length Philadelphia makes its
+appearance, stretching for nearly three miles along the western side of
+a bend or angle of the river. This view is certainly a fine one, but
+it would be much improved by the appearance of a few more steeples or
+lofty structures. From the water two or three only are visible above
+this immense assemblage of red houses; and yet the city contains nine
+episcopal churches, a great number of public buildings, and charitable
+institutions without end.
+
+Great attention is paid to the education of the poorer classes: the
+constitution of Pennsylvania declaring, “That the legislature shall, as
+soon as convenient, provide by law for the establishment of schools, in
+such manner that the poor may be educated without expense.”
+
+Philadelphia has been often described. The streets cross each other
+at right angles: those running parallel with the river are numbered,
+second, third, fourth, &c.; the others usually bear the name of some
+fruit or tree. The word street is usually omitted: in describing the
+way, a person would tell you that the place you were looking for was in
+Walnut, below fifth; Sassafras, above second; Mulberry, between seventh
+and eighth, &c. These streets run over a distance of two miles, from
+the Delaware to the Schuyllkill river, which enters the Delaware about
+nine miles to the south of Philadelphia. The Bank of Pennsylvania is a
+small building, but elegantly designed from the Temple of the Muses,
+on the Ilyssus, near Athens.
+
+The new Mint of the United States was unfinished, but promised to be a
+chaste and beautiful building, on a larger scale, from the same model.
+On the 4th of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was signed,
+and afterwards read from the steps of the State-house, where the state
+courts of justice are now held. The room in which this took place had
+been fitted up for La Fayette in 1824, as the most appropriate place
+for levee tenure; but when I saw it, it was occupied by workmen, who
+had instructions to replace every thing as it was when it acquired its
+present reputation.
+
+The Academy of Fine Arts much exceeded my expectations. Although the
+most conspicuous pictures were those of American academicians, yet here
+and there the eye was attracted by a Vandyke, a Rubens, a Guercino,
+and a Salvator Rosa, or some good copies from them. There were a few
+landscapes by Ruysdael, and a fine Murillo: the subject was the Roman
+daughter. The productions from the English school, were portraits
+of John H. Powell, Esq. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of John Kemble by
+Sir M. A. Shee, and another of Dugald Stuart by Sir H. Raeburn. Any
+person conversant with the pictures of this latter artist, would have
+recognised this, by the usual green colouring in the back-ground. There
+were five admirable portraits by Mr. Stewart, the American artist, of
+the Presidents Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe. The
+best full-length portrait of Washington is that in the Fauneuil Hall
+at Boston; but as a half-length this is, I believe, considered the
+original. They were all remarkable for their easy and unsophisticated
+attitudes. Mr. Stewart has been dead about five years. Mr. Hardinge
+has also very great merit as a portrait painter; but Mr. Sully has the
+reputation of being the first in America. A portrait of Sir Thomas
+Lawrence, by that gentleman, is a most successful imitation of the
+style of the late president. He exhibited also an excellent full-length
+portrait of General La Fayette; and Mr. Tuman, a scarcely inferior
+artist, is at present employed in painting another, of Mr. Penn, which
+will occupy a place beside the General in the Hall of Independence. I
+also observed a composition-landscape, by Mr. Fisher, which had very
+great merit. It was well remarked in the preface to the catalogue,
+that so many of the pictures did not need indulgence, in comparison
+with that which had heretofore been cheerfully, and with justice,
+conceded to them. This was very true of a large proportion of them,
+but some nevertheless, needed it not a little; and in fact had no
+business there. It is a pity that the Americans do not take warning
+by the constant outcry that for so many years has been justly raised
+against the swarm of portraits that annually cluster on the walls of
+Somerset-house. They might well devote more of their time and talent to
+historical painting. With the exception of the “Sortie from Gibraltar,”
+by Colonel Trumbull, and another very indifferent picture, there were,
+I think, no historical pieces in the room appropriated to modern
+events. The Americans cannot plead a want of subjects: the revolution
+is not half illustrated; besides, they may depend upon it, portrait
+painting is a very aristocratical thing after all, and should not be
+generally encouraged, on that account. In running over the walls of a
+modern exhibition-room, the eye is fatigued by its endeavours to avoid
+an encounter with the features of individuals in a new character, to
+which many of them never had the slightest pretensions, except upon
+canvass.
+
+The water-works on the Schuyllkill are probably the finest in the
+world: they can scarcely be praised too highly for beauty of design,
+simplicity of construction, and real usefulness. A dam, sixteen hundred
+feet in length, is thrown across the river, by which the stream is
+backed up for several miles, and an enormous water-power thus created.
+The solid rock has been excavated, in order to obtain what is termed a
+race; and by means of huge double-forcing pumps, worked by four immense
+wheels, the water is thrown up into an ample reservoir, fifty-six
+feet above the highest ground in the city. It is calculated that each
+wheel and pump could raise one million two hundred and fifty thousand
+gallons in twenty-four hours, if allowed to play without intermission.
+The rising ground in the neighbourhood of the water-works affords
+the best and nearest general view of the city. Thence I visited the
+botanical gardens of Mr. Pratt, containing a very fine orangery and
+a choice collection of exotics, and delightfully situated on the
+east side of the Schuyllkill, which spreads out to a great extent
+immediately beneath them, with banks wooded to the water’s edge. In a
+very few years this fine scene is destined to be unnatured. By this
+time a rail-road is commenced, which will run from Philadelphia to
+Columbia, a distance of eighty-two miles: it will there join the great
+Pennsylvanian canal, which has been finished nearly all the way from
+the eastern side of the Alleghany mountains. In order to pass these, a
+rail-road on inclined planes, will be constructed; by which the rich
+mineral productions on the western slope of the mountains, consisting
+chiefly of iron and bituminous coal of the finest quality, will be
+quickly forwarded to Philadelphia in any quantity. The greatest height
+of the Alleghany mountains in Pennsylvania, is thirteen hundred feet.
+The rail-road I have mentioned, will pass at a short distance from the
+water-works; and therefore, in all probability, no very long period
+will elapse before the vicinity will become a coal-yard.
+
+The porcelain manufactory is not far off. I was told that the material
+was little inferior to that of Sevres, but I found the painting
+indifferent. French China is still preferred, and superiority cannot
+yet be expected in this department.
+
+In my way back to the city, I visited the Penitentiary of Pennsylvania.
+This is the most extensive building in the United States. The front
+is 670 feet in length—very handsome, and bearing a baronial and gloomy
+appearance, in the style of our old English castles. Its area is a
+square, with a tower at each angle of the prison wall. It is intended
+that eight corridors should radiate from an observatory in the centre
+of the area, but only three are in use at present. These contain the
+cells, and command a free circulation of air, and a plentiful supply
+of water. The only punishment adopted, is solitary confinement.
+This Penitentiary is too young an establishment to afford a perfect
+confidence in the opinions of those who are favourable to its system.
+The reports of the inspectors are, however, extremely encouraging.
+The first and present warder (Mr. Samuel R. Wood) was only appointed
+in June 1829. This gentleman, who is well known as a kind of second
+Howard in his way, has visited many of the principal prisons in
+Europe; and now finds employment for his talents and his humanity
+in, I believe, his native city. Every crime committed in the state
+of Pennsylvania, on this side of the Alleghany mountains, that is
+punishable by imprisonment at all for the space of one year or more, is
+to be expiated by solitary confinement within this Penitentiary. That
+at Pittsburg, on the Ohio, receives those whose crimes are committed
+on the western side of the Alleghany. Every prisoner is allowed to
+work at his trade; or if he have none, or one that he cannot follow
+in his cell, he is allowed to choose one, and is instructed by one
+of the overseers, who are all masters of different trades. Mr. Wood,
+in his last report, gives it as his opinion, that a prisoner who
+has two years or upwards to remain in prison, can, in his solitary
+cell, earn sufficient to clear all his expenses from his admission
+till his discharge. The Philadelphia system differs from that at
+Sing-sing, in the state of New York. At Sing-sing, the prisoners are
+brought out to work together, but are not allowed to speak to each
+other. At Philadelphia they never work together; and from the time
+of his admission, one prisoner never sees, or speaks with, another.
+My English ideas were not a little startled at first, when I found
+that high treason is expiable by solitary confinement for not less
+than three, nor more than six years; and that the punishment for the
+second offence was solitary confinement for ten years. Treason against
+the state of Pennsylvania is here alluded to. By the articles of the
+constitution, treason against the United States shall consist only in
+levying war against them; or in adhering to their enemies, giving them
+aid and comfort. No person shall be convicted of treason unless on
+the testimony of two witnesses to the same overt act, or on confession
+in open court. Congress shall have power to declare the punishment of
+treason, but no attainder of treason shall work corruption of blood or
+forfeiture, except during the life of the person attainted. Treason
+against the United States is a capital offence. Murder, in the second
+degree, that is, murder committed in a sudden quarrel, but without
+malice prepense, is punished by solitary confinement at labour for
+three, and not more than six years; for the second offence, for a
+period not exceeding ten years. The punishment for burglary is solitary
+confinement for not less than two, nor more than ten years; for the
+second offence, for a period not exceeding fifteen years. For robbery,
+or being accessory thereto before the fact, the period is for not less
+than one, nor more than seven years; for the second offence, for a
+period not exceeding twelve years. Mayhem, kidnapping, horsestealing,
+perjury, &c. are all punished by solitary confinement for different
+periods. Almost every species of forgery, or aiding, abetting, or
+commanding the perpetration of a forgery, whether it be of the coin
+of the state, or have reference to the sale, utterance, or delivery,
+or having in possession the metallic plate used in the forging of
+any note of any bank incorporated in the state of Pennsylvania; or
+forging, defacing, corrupting, or embezzling any charters, gifts,
+grants, bonds, bills, wills, conveyances, or contracts; or defacing,
+or falsifying any enrolment, registry, or record; or forging any
+entry of the acknowledgment, certificate, or endorsement, whereby the
+freehold or inheritance of any person or persons may be charged; or of
+counterfeiting the hand or seal of another with intent to defraud; or
+the privy or great seal of the state of Pennsylvania, is punished with
+solitary confinement for a period of not less than one, nor more than
+seven years; and for the second offence, for a period not exceeding ten
+years. It is expected that few offenders will run the risk of solitary
+confinement for a second time.
+
+When first received, the prisoner is left alone, and it seldom happens
+that he does not ask for a Bible, and work, after the lapse of a
+few hours. A Bible and a few other religious books are allowed him.
+In a few days the withdrawal of his employment is felt, and adopted
+as a punishment, with the most obstinate and hardened. The chaplain
+occasionally visits the prisoners, and on Sundays he takes a station
+whence the words of prayer and exhortation can be heard by every
+prisoner in his cell, as they echo along the vaulted roof of the
+corridor.
+
+If any punishment can be said to be dignified, that of solitary
+confinement has a claim to that epithet. Justice to society is nobly
+done, not only in the removal of the prisoner in the first instance,
+but, secondly, by enabling him to return, as it were, to the world,
+a wiser and a better man. The end of solitary confinement is the
+reformation of the criminal, by obliging him to think who never thought
+before. If reflection can be awakened, and conscience can obtain a
+hearing, its advantages will be readily acknowledged. The prisoner is
+forced to commune with his own soul: the all-powerful voice of ridicule
+is absent and unheard; remorse is not stifled, and penitence is not
+put to flight, by the sneers of a dissolute companion: with no one to
+admire, and applaud his resolution to be “game”—to submit, is the only
+alternative.
+
+In England the system could not, generally, I think, succeed. The
+effect of solitary confinement might be the same on the moral character
+of the prisoner, but unless something like a permanent means of getting
+a livelihood be secured to him, after his removal from the prison, the
+principal and best object of the punishment would not be obtained.
+This would be extremely difficult in a country of small extent, with
+a superabundant population, and a supply of labour far exceeding
+the demand. The regenerated offender might, perhaps, contrive to
+avoid observation; but if necessity compelled him to labour for his
+subsistence, it is probable that he would not find employment; and the
+necessary consequence would be, that all his good resolutions would
+vanish at the approach of want.
+
+No country is so well adapted for the experiment as the United States
+of America. Enterprise is abroad in every direction, and labour is
+well paid. When the period of confinement is at an end, the criminal
+may wander to any corner of that vast continent,—and go where he will,
+the wages of industry are always at his command. He is in little fear
+of being recognised by his fellow-prisoners, because no prisoner is
+allowed to see another. His former associates in crime are dispersed,
+or in prison, or in the grave; and the hope that attended him in his
+cell is realised, by the facility of gaining a new character, and
+friends who are ignorant of his crime. It should be added to this
+notice of the Penitentiary, that every cell opens into a small paved
+court-yard, in which the prisoner can take exercise; and that the
+system has not been found prejudicial to health of mind or body, as had
+been anticipated.
+
+I visited the Museum at Philadelphia, which is said to be the best
+in the United States. It contains a skeleton of the mammoth; a fine
+collection of Indian curiosities and American animals: the most
+extraordinary of these is, perhaps, a specimen of the gigantic raya
+or ray, or devil-fish, measuring twelve feet in length, by fifteen in
+breadth; and weighing more than 2000 lbs. In the gallery are arranged a
+number of portraits, chiefly of distinguished Americans, which are said
+to be admirable likenesses; but certainly not valuable as paintings.
+I was much better pleased altogether with the museum belonging to the
+Academy of Natural Sciences. It is much smaller than the other, but far
+more scientifically arranged.
+
+The Dock-yard at Philadelphia contained, when I visited it, a sixty-gun
+frigate, nearly finished; and the Pennsylvania, a four decker, with
+a round stern, also in an unfinished state, and destined to carry
+one hundred and forty-four guns. This enormous vessel is two hundred
+and twenty feet in length, and fifty-eight across the main-beam.
+Her timbers seemed light, in proportion to her immense size; they
+certainly do not appear to be thicker than those of an ordinary British
+seventy-four. The great strength of the knees, however, are said to
+compensate for the apparent weakness of her other timbers. There were
+no workmen employed upon her, and saltpetre was strewed over her
+wherever it would lie. She is larger than the old Santissima Trinidad,
+destroyed at Trafalgar; but not so large as a Turkish ship of the line,
+launched, I believe, since the battle of Navarino. All the guns of the
+Pennsylvania will be thirty-two-pound carronades on the spar-deck, and
+long guns on the others. Her anchor weighs more than 11,000 lbs. With
+such a tremendous weight of metal, it is probable that she would not be
+able to stand the wear and tear of the long blockades in which many of
+our ships were employed during the war.
+
+The timber of the live-oak, so called from its being an evergreen, is
+supposed to be imperishable. This tree grows almost exclusively in the
+Southern States; but is annually becoming more scarce and valuable, as
+the extreme slowness of its growth cannot keep pace with the demand:
+the Americans will probably find themselves obliged to plant it, before
+another quarter of a century has elapsed.
+
+The following treatment of the different kinds of timber used in the
+American navy is recommended in the report of the Secretary of the Navy
+for 1829. Live-oak should be immersed for twelve months in water, then
+taken up and placed under cover to protect it against sun, rain, and
+high winds. Its immersion is recommended by the fact that it renders
+it less liable to split. White-oak which is inferior to the British
+white, or navy-oak, should be docked about eighteen months in fresh,
+or two years in salt water; then taken up and sawed into such sizes
+as may be required, then placed under cover for about two or three
+years. Yellow pine should be docked about twelve months; then taken up,
+sawed, and covered for two years. Mast timber should be immersed and
+covered in mud till wanted for use. All timber ought to be cut when
+the greatest portion of sap is in circulation, at some time from the
+first of November to the end of February; it should then be immersed in
+water, and never taken out but early in the spring: and it was given as
+an opinion, that if all timber underwent this process, the ships might
+last double the time they otherwise would.
+
+I went to both the principal theatres, but did not think that either
+they or the performances were as good as at New York. I saw Mr.
+Cooper, the famed American actor, in some old play, of which I forget
+the name. His voice is extremely good: I remember that I thought him
+dignified, but rather stiff, without however being the least awkward in
+his acting. I also saw young Burke, as Doctor Pangloss. His acting I
+thought admirable, and most humourous; and his violin playing is quite
+extraordinary for his age. His tragedy is very little inferior to his
+comedy.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The United States’ bank at Philadelphia is a beautiful building, being
+a copy from the Parthenon, with such alterations as were absolutely
+indispensable in order to render it fit for purposes of business. It
+has no side columns; but the portico is a splendid specimen of the
+Doric. The Ionic pillars in the interior, were brought from Italy.
+The present United States’ bank, was incorporated by Act of Congress
+on the 10th of April, 1816, and is chartered till the 3d of March,
+1836. It paid a bonus to Government of 1,500,000 dollars. Its capital
+is 35,000,000 dollars, divided into 350,000 shares of 100 dollars
+each; 70,000 shares were subscribed by government, which therefore
+became a proprietor of one fifth. After a thorough investigation of
+the right of Congress to pass an act of incorporation, this bank was
+first called into existence in the year 1791, when General Washington
+was president; and its charter expired in the year 1811. The two
+opposing parties of Federalist and Democrat had in effect began to
+show themselves, though not exactly by those names, in 1787. In 1790,
+Mr. Hamilton, the secretary of the treasury, made his celebrated report
+on the state of the public debts contracted during the revolutionary
+war. He proposed that the debts of the continental Congress and those
+incurred by the States individually, should be funded by the general
+government, and that the interest should be paid by taxes on articles
+of luxury and on ardent spirits. This, it was thought, would give too
+much power to the Federal government, in opposition to the rights
+of the States separately considered; and it was on account of their
+conflicting opinions respecting this federal measure, that the two
+parties who supported or opposed the new constitution, first acquired
+the names of Federalist and Democrat. Their first differences under
+these appellations, were on the bank question, which afterwards
+became, and is now to a certain extent, a test of political principle.
+Its establishment had been opposed on constitutional grounds by Mr.
+Jefferson and Mr. Madison; by the former in the executive cabinet,
+and by the latter in congress, and both distinguished Democrats. It
+was asserted that congress had no power to create corporations. The
+Federalist was in favour of a liberal construction of the articles of
+the constitution, and an extension of the powers thereby vested in
+the federal assembly or congress of the United States, in opposition
+to what are termed state rights, or powers claimed separately by the
+states in their individual capacity. The federalist was said to be
+friendly to Great Britain, and to be indifferent to the principles of
+the French revolution. He was in favour of the Alien law, by which the
+president was enabled to compel suspected foreigners to leave the
+country; and of the Sedition law, which provided for the prosecution
+and punishment of false and malicious accusations against the president
+and members of congress. In fact, these measures were passed by
+congress during the administration of John Adams, who succeeded General
+Washington, and was the second and last of the federal party elected to
+the office of president. The democrat regarded the principles of the
+federalist as far too aristocratical for the atmosphere of America.
+He was a strict interpreter of the articles of the constitution, and
+kept a careful watch, lest the federal government, in its united
+capacity, should usurp any powers which he considered as the rights and
+privileges of individual states. Under the overwhelming influence of
+the democrat principles, which have been on the increase more and more
+from the first year of Mr. Jefferson’s presidency, the federalist party
+have experienced a great decrease in number, and their principles have
+lost much of their rigidity. In fact, the two parties may be said to be
+nearly extinct, even in name; the terms Federalist and Democrat being
+rarely mentioned now.
+
+The federalist was always the enemy of universal suffrage. He was for
+imposing a substantial qualification on every voter; on the principle
+that property, and not persons, should be represented. In Pennsylvania
+for instance, the right of suffrage is possessed by every freeman of
+the age of twenty-one years, who has resided in the state for two years
+next preceding, and who within that time, has paid a state or county
+tax, assessed at least six months before the election: and a poll tax
+of fifty cents per annum, confers this right upon individuals who are
+not in circumstances to pay any other. That corruption to a great
+extent is generated by this system, is admitted on all hands; it is
+obviously a matter of course that it should be so. Even in democratic
+America there are to be found thousands who readily acknowledge the
+real causes of their prosperity to be identified with those that have
+prevented this system from figuring in its real colours; and who
+freely admit that it proceeds from a comparative exemption from taxes;
+an unbounded extent of country; an admirable spirit of enterprise; a
+population not too large, and a consequent abundance of employment—not
+from the existence of a peculiar political system.
+
+But to return to the subject of the United States’ bank. When Mr.
+Jefferson and the democrats came into power, the renewal of the bank
+charter was discussed as a party question. At this period excitement
+was at its height; and the federalists made themselves so conspicuous
+by their indiscriminating opposition to those measures of commercial
+restriction adopted by the democrats in power, against Great Britain,
+in compliance with the policy of the new French government, that they
+were considered by a large proportion of the American nation, as
+the apologists for the conduct of a country already regarded in the
+light of a public enemy. Yet such was the general opinion of the good
+that had been diffused throughout the Union by the bank, that the
+question of the renewal of its charter, was only lost by the casting
+vote of the president of the senate, and by one vote in the house of
+representatives. In less than three years after the expiration of the
+charter in 1811, the war with Great Britain having taken place in the
+mean time, the finances were in a state of incredible embarrassment;
+and the re-establishment of the United States’ bank recommended by Mr.
+Dallas, who was then secretary to the treasury, received the sanction
+of Mr. Madison; and the measure passed both branches of congress during
+the ascendency of that very party which was previously opposed to it.
+
+In consequence of the non-renewal of the bank charter, bank credit
+to the amount of 15,000,000 of dollars was withdrawn from the public
+service, and a number of local banks immediately sprang up.
+
+Freed from the salutary control of the United States’ bank, they
+commenced a system of imprudent trading, and excessive issues, which
+speedily disordered the currency of the country; and notwithstanding
+all her resources, and all her patriotism, in the last year of the
+last war, the United States were on the eve of bankruptcy, solely for
+the want of some national institution that would have assisted the
+exigences of government, and supported a circulating medium of general
+credit throughout the Union. The loss of the United States during
+the three years when there was no bank, was estimated at not less
+than 46,000,000 of dollars, sustained exclusively by want of a sound
+currency and an efficient system of finance.
+
+The United States’ bank has established branch banks at twenty-two of
+the principal commercial cities of the Union. When it was first opened
+there were, as we have seen, but two parties in the country, both
+acting from motives purely patriotic. The number is now increased, and
+interest is not now, as it was then, left out of the question. The bank
+charter does not expire till 1836; but the sentiments of the president
+on the subject of its renewal, which so deeply involves the commercial
+happiness of the Union, cannot but be speculated upon with peculiar
+interest, even at this distance of time.
+
+It is said that General Jackson is unfavourable to its renewal. In
+his message of 1830 he expressed an opinion, that the bank had failed
+in the great end of establishing an uniform and sound currency. This
+is supposed to have reference merely to the circumstance of the
+bank, not in all cases redeeming the bills issued by any one of its
+branches indiscriminately at all the others. But it would be an obvious
+injustice to oblige the bank to any such measure: the attempt would be
+quite incompatible with its existence; as it is evident, that if the
+exchange were unfavourable in one State, and favourable in another,
+the flow of notes from the State where it is unfavourable, would
+soon suspend or contract all the operations of the bank; and the very
+evil of an inequality of the currency, which the establishment was
+designed to remedy, would be increased by a vain attempt to perform
+impossibilities. I need not, however, pursue this subject further;
+but will only add, that all reasoning and experience seem to favour a
+belief in the advantages which the banking establishment has conferred
+on the country. It is, besides, in possession of a considerable surplus
+fund, after deducting seven per cent., which will enable it to meet
+any contingences that may arise. In lieu of the United States’ bank,
+an establishment to be termed a national bank, founded on the credit
+of the government and its revenues, has been proposed by General
+Jackson and others. Five hundred agents are employed at the present
+moment in transacting the affairs of the United States’ bank; but the
+enormous increase of patronage which would accrue to the government
+by the establishment of the proposed National bank, would be nothing
+in comparison with the power that would be vested in it, from its
+having under its control the dispensation of bank accommodations to
+the amount of at least 50,000,000 of dollars. When these consequences
+are considered, it is difficult to conceive how such a plan could find
+support among the subjects of a government professing to be thoroughly
+democratical.
+
+The society of Philadelphia is, taken all together, the best in the
+United States. The gay season is during the winter months. Balls and
+concerts are then frequent and well attended: in this respect I was
+unfortunate, as I was in that city in May—but I was partly recompensed
+for my loss, by the promenade in Washington Square, which, although
+shady enough, and prettily laid out, is not what the most fashionable
+promenade in Philadelphia ought to be;—and I could not but remark, that
+the display of beauty and elegance to be seen there about six o’clock
+on the afternoon of a fine day, was most richly deserving of a better
+place of parade. I cannot in conscience assert that, as far as it went,
+I thought it equal, and yet I am scarcely willing to pronounce it
+inferior, to the splendid cortège of Kensington gardens.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I had come to the conclusion that I should not be able to descend the
+Mississippi to New Orleans. By the time that I should arrive there,
+the extreme heats of an American summer would have been prevailing
+in that very unhealthy climate, and a stranger is almost certain to
+be attacked by fever and ague. The voyage down the river occupies
+five or six days; the voyage up the river is not performed in less
+than ten or twelve; and I was consoled by learning that the voyage is
+exceedingly tedious, as the low banks offer no variety of scenery for
+many days—so much so, that upon rising in the morning, a person might
+almost be persuaded he had not moved from that part of the river where
+he had been the previous evening. I therefore determined to make a
+tour through part of Pennsylvania: I had heard much of the beauty of
+the scenery, of the trout fishing, and “all that,” and accordingly
+having engaged a place in the coach to Harrisburg, the capital of the
+State, I started by it, at the nondescript hour of two in the morning,
+and arrived at Harrisburg the same evening. The road lay through a
+well-cultivated, but not particularly interesting country; at least
+I did not think so, for it rained in torrents the whole morning; and
+although I was inside the coach, one arm was completely wet through,
+in consequence of the oilskin panels being but loosely fastened. The
+great heat of summer renders it necessary that the conveyances should
+be as airy as possible; the panels, which are made either of leather
+or oilskin, are rolled up in dry weather; but the “gentleman in the
+corner” sometimes comes off very badly on a cold or rainy day. In
+addition to this, it must be remembered that the American coaches
+usually carry nine inside, and do not afford too much liberty to the
+legs. The three passengers who sit in the middle, lean their shoulders
+against a broad leather strap, which passes across the coach; and as
+this occasionally gets unhooked in passing over a forest road, their
+heads are instantly thrown in contact with the stomachs of those who
+are behind them.
+
+The most considerable place we passed was Reading, which has much the
+appearance of a second-rate country town in England. Viewed from the
+Sunbury road, by which I returned to it in my way back to Philadelphia,
+its situation, in a fine surrounding country, appears to much greater
+advantage. We passed no other place of note but Lebanon; in the
+vicinity of which is to be found some of the finest arable land in
+Pennsylvania. Harrisburg is delightfully situated on the Susquehanna.
+It was here for the first time I saw that beautiful river; in breadth
+about three quarters of a mile. Its clear and shallow stream is not
+really slow, but at a little distance it appears as tranquil and
+unruffled as the surface of a lake. Immediately opposite to Harrisburg
+is an island, from either side of which a long wooden bridge is
+thrown to the opposite bank of the river. Harrisburg is the capital
+of Pennsylvania, and is a thriving, neat and pretty-looking town,
+containing about four thousand inhabitants. The House of Assembly, or
+Capitol, as it is always called in America, is built on an eminence.
+The sittings of the senate and house of representatives of Pennsylvania
+were held first at Philadelphia, then at Lancaster, and subsequently
+for nearly the last twenty years at Harrisburg, which, from its central
+situation, has been found much more convenient. The chamber where the
+representatives hold their sittings is very large, with separate desks
+for every two or three members, disposed in a semicircle, in the same
+manner as in the French chamber of deputies. The chair in which the
+Speaker sits was filled by the celebrated patriot John Hancock, when
+he presided in the assembly, by the members of which the declaration
+of independence was signed in the state-house at Philadelphia. The
+senate and representatives had just finished their sittings, after
+having passed only two hundred and sixty-seven Acts. I saw a list
+of them. They chiefly related to internal improvements; and many of
+them made honourable provision for old soldiers, or the widows and
+families of old soldiers, who had served in the revolutionary war. An
+experiment, which would have been deemed serious in an older country,
+was on the eve of trial: an Act had been passed for levying a tax on
+personal property throughout the state. The bulk of the taxes had
+hitherto been paid by the land owners, and a new assessment made once
+every three years. The annual tax is at the rate of one, two, or three
+dollars the acre, according to the value of the land. The owner of
+personal property only, however, enjoyed an immunity, of which the
+present measure was intended to divest him, by making him pay a tax of
+one dollar in a thousand. Every individual will be obliged to swear
+to the amount of his personal property; and should he be supposed to
+swear falsely, an officer will be empowered to compel the production
+of any deed, bond, note, or bill, or of any writing being evidence of
+a debt owing to him. However, the general opinion seemed to be, that
+the graceless impost would be acquiesced in as one of fairness and
+necessity. On account of the enterprise of canals, railroads, and other
+improvements, the state debt of Pennsylvania is larger than that of any
+other of the Union, amounting to 14,463,161 dollars,—the debt of New
+York amounting to nearly 9,000,000 dollars. The individual State debts
+are very likely to be increased rather than diminished, in the end;
+but as no State debt has in any instance been increased except for the
+purposes of internal improvements, the augmentation of the debt will
+but add eventually to the prosperity and wealth of the State. Suppose
+any state, New York for instance, were to borrow 4,000,000 dollars for
+some public work, as a canal or rail-road, at a fixed rate of interest,
+and that the capital borrowed were to be reimbursable in the year 1850.
+Such a rate of tonnage would be levied on the canal or railroad as
+would, after payment of the interest, leave a sinking fund available
+for the redemption of the capital borrowed, and the State would be
+left in possession of a large tract of country rendered productive
+and valuable on account of the additional facility afforded for the
+carriage of produce to market. Once only since the formation of the
+constitution, and during the presidency of John Adams, has a direct
+and general property-tax been imposed by the federal government in time
+of peace.
+
+The view from the dome of the capitol at Harrisburg is very fine;
+but a much better is obtained from the summit of a hill about a mile
+behind the town, although, perhaps, the town itself is not seen to
+such advantage. A great part of the surrounding country is very well
+cultivated; corn-fields, pasture, and woodlands, are distributed over
+hill and hollow; and occasionally here and there is perceived a small
+farm-house, of a neater and more English appearance than any I had yet
+seen. On every side the landscape is terminated as usual by a boundless
+forest. The Susquehanna seems to lose itself through a gap in the Blue
+Mountains; and throughout the whole of its course, which is visible for
+a great distance, its banks and beautiful islands are clothed with the
+richest foliage to the water’s edge. I proceeded along the north bank
+of the river towards Duncan’s Island, and after a ride of eight or nine
+miles, I arrived at the gap I have just mentioned. Its scenery forcibly
+reminded me of the Rhine at Drachenfells. The abrupt and lofty hill
+on the left is not surmounted by a “castled crag,” but it overhangs,
+perhaps, a nobler river, whose banks are covered with the forest trees
+of America, instead of being formally scarped for the culture of vines,
+trimmed like gooseberry bushes. At a short distance from the gap, the
+river is crossed by an enormous wooden bridge of eight arches, which is
+very nearly half a mile in length. The bridges in America are usually
+of wood, of admirable construction, neatly painted, and covered over
+like many of the bridges in Switzerland. The piers are of stone of
+great size, and buttressed towards the stream. This bridge is the
+largest of the kind I have seen any where.
+
+In the garden of the inn, or tavern, as it is usually called, is an
+Indian tumulus, about fifteen feet in height, hemispherical in shape,
+and evidently once much higher. These tumuli are to be seen in various
+parts of Pennsylvania, and in fact, in all parts of America; often two
+are found at no great distance from one another. At Liverpool, in that
+state, are two of them, about three quarters of a mile apart; but one
+had been ploughed over by the Gothic proprietor of the soil. At first
+it is not difficult to infer from this, that a great battle had taken
+place in the vicinity, and that each party had adopted this place for
+the burial of the dead,—that universally, and eternally distinguishing
+characteristic between mankind and those of the brute creation that
+make the nearest approaches to humanity. Where, however, they are found
+singly, the researches of Mr. Jefferson and of others, induce us to
+believe that they were heaped together upon other occasions. In one
+which he opened, Mr. Jefferson conjectures that there might be as many
+as a thousand skeletons; and appearances indicated that it had derived
+its origin and enlargement from a custom of collecting the bones of the
+dead on the spot at different times. They were deposited in layers, but
+in the utmost confusion of relative position; the bones of the most
+distant parts of the body being crowded together. Those of infants and
+half-grown persons were found among them. These tumuli are sometimes
+composed of earth, and sometimes of loose stones, like the cairn and
+carnedd of Scotland and Wales.
+
+The conjecture, that they were either raised over the dead in battle,
+or in accordance with the custom supposed by Mr. Jefferson, is the more
+probable, on account of the bones being always found in quantities.
+The European tumuli, of whatever age or nation, have either been
+heaped up over the ashes of some distinguished person, or are found to
+contain but a few coffins, of rough-hewn and loose stone. In America,
+I believe, none are supposed to cover the remains of one person only,
+deeply buried as in Europe, under the superincumbent mass; but in the
+tumuli of America the external coating of earth will easily crumble
+away when disturbed, and will frequently discover the bones at a
+trifling depth beneath the surface. Arrows and other implements of
+war are frequently found amongst them. The formation of these tumuli
+is no where understood to be a modern custom. The Indians have a
+feeling of reverence for them, and use them as land marks; but the
+most aged are unable to furnish any clue to the discovery of their
+antiquity. The knowledge of their own ancestors is confined to three
+or four generations, and nothing certain is known of the aborigines
+who formed these tumuli. Humboldt himself, in his “New Spain,” after
+a learned dissertation on the subject, is obliged to admit that
+“the general question of the first origin of the inhabitants of the
+continent, is beyond the limits prescribed to history, and is not
+perhaps even a philosophical question.” There can be no doubt that
+they were a distinct race, and more civilised than the wild Indians of
+the present day, whose Asiatic origin is also a subject of dispute.
+Humboldt believes that the analogy between the languages of Tartary and
+those of the new Continent extends to a very small number of words.
+He adds, that the want of wheat, oats, barley, rye, and of all those
+nutritive gramina which go under the name of cereal, seems to prove
+that if Asiatic tribes passed into America, they must have descended
+from pastoral people. We see in the old continent, that the cultivation
+of cereal gramina, and the use of milk were introduced as far back as
+we have any historical records. The inhabitants of the new continent,
+cultivated no other gramina than maize. They fed on no species of milk,
+though the lamas alpacas, and in the north of Mexico and Canada, two
+kinds of indigenous oxen, would have afforded them milk in abundance.
+These are striking contrasts between the Mongol and American race.
+However, in the Transactions of the Literary and Historical Society
+of Quebec, there has lately been published a “Catalogue of a few
+(ninety-six) remarkable instances, which induce a belief of the Asiatic
+origin of the North American Indians. By Major Mercer, R. A.” These
+I recommend, as they are very interesting. Robertson says that “the
+Esquimaux Indians, are the only people in America who, in their aspect
+and character, bear any resemblance to the Northern Europeans.” They
+differ from all the other Indian tribes in their language, disposition,
+and habits of life. He thence infers the probability of their having
+originally passed over from the North-west of Europe, and adds, “that
+among all the other inhabitants of America, there is such a striking
+similitude in the form of their bodies, and the qualities of their
+minds, that notwithstanding the diversities occasioned by the influence
+of climate, or unequal progress of improvement, we must pronounce
+them to be descended from one source—the north east of Asia.” It may
+be here added, that Cuvier, when speaking of the mouflon of the Blue
+Mountains, informs us, that it is the only quadruped of any size, the
+discovery of which is entirely modern, and gives it as his opinion,
+that perhaps it is only a Siberian goat that has crossed the ice.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The junction of the Susquehanna and Juniata rivers, takes place at
+Duncan’s Island. The latter is a much smaller river, varying from one
+to two hundred yards in breadth. In some places its thickly forested
+banks rise to a great height above the gloomy-looking stream, whose
+dark placidity is occasionally disturbed by small rapids, or falls,
+as they are termed, though they hardly deserve the name. I observed a
+sunken raft, and one solitary fish-hawk (osprey). The road continues
+along the side of the Juniata for several miles; it then leaves it,
+and conducts the traveller to Lewistown. I observed nothing remarkable
+in this place. Its situation, however, is picturesque, as it is
+surrounded with abrupt hills and rising grounds of different elevation,
+with plenty of forest, as usual. The distance from Lewistown to a
+place called Brown’s Mills, is not more than five miles. Here I found
+an excellent country inn, kept by an Irishman, and a most delicious
+trouting stream, running rapidly through the woods, and emerging close
+to the inn. It is wadeable in every part, and swarms with trout, some
+of them weighing more than three pounds. Those killed with a fly, do
+not average more than half a pound in weight; but it is no uncommon
+occurrence to kill five or six dozen in two or three hours. When I was
+there, and in fact during the whole time I passed in Pennsylvania,
+the season was early, and the weather cold and unfavourable, so that I
+killed but very few fish. A severe walk of twenty-five miles through
+the forest, and across a range of hills known by the name of the
+Seven Mountains, brought me to Belfont; a large and thriving town,
+conspicuous from being placed on a hill in the midst of a very pretty
+country. Close to Belfont are three full mountain streams, or creeks,
+as they are called in America. Spring creek in particular, contains
+an enormous quantity of trout, of about the same size as those at
+Brown’s Mills; but the weather was still unfavourable, and it was all
+in vain that I waded down the stream for nearly four miles. I took
+but seven or eight moderate-sized fish. The red hackle is considered
+the best general fly. The other streams are known by the names of the
+Bald Eagle, and Logan’s creek. The former takes its name from a bald
+eagle’s nest, that was annually built in the vicinity, or, which is
+more probable, from a tribe of Indians so called, who resided there.
+At the head waters of the other creek, is still seen the place of
+residence of the celebrated Mingo chief, Logan,—whose eloquent message
+to Lord Dunmore, is too well known to need insertion here. Many of the
+aged inhabitants of Belfont still remember him. His fate resembled
+that of Demosthenes and Cicero: he perished for his eloquence. An old
+officer of the United States army, who, soon after the close of the
+revolutionary war, was ordered to make surveys of the country watered
+by the Alleghany river, informed me that Logan’s nephew, a remarkably
+fine young Indian, dined with him one day in his tent, and that he
+asked him what became of Logan. I killed him, was the reply. Why did
+you kill him?—The nation ordered it. For what reason?—He was too great
+a man to live: he talked so well, that although the whole nation had
+intended to put any plan in execution, yet, if Logan did not approve
+of it, he would soon gain a majority in favour of his opinions. Was
+he not then generally in the right?—Often; but his influence divided
+the nation too much. Why did they choose you to put him to death? If
+any one else had done it, I would certainly have killed him: I, who am
+his nephew, shall inherit his greatness. Will they not then kill you
+also?—Yes: and when I become as great a man as Logan (laying his hand
+on his breast with dignity), I shall be content to die! He added, that
+he shot him near the Alleghany river. When informed of the resolution
+of the council of his nation, Logan stopped his horse, drew himself up
+in an attitude of great dignity, and received the fatal ball without a
+murmur.
+
+From Belfont I proceeded on foot over the mountains to Philipsburg,
+on the western slope of the Alleghany ridge. The distance was about
+twenty-eight miles. After walking for several hours along the side of
+the Bald Eagle creek, I arrived at the foot of the Alleghanies. They
+are composed of sandstone, and are more extensive than any in the
+States on this side of the Rocky Mountains, though their height is
+inconsiderable. The most elevated part of the ridge in Pennsylvania
+does not, as I have said before, exceed 1300 feet; but at the other
+peak, in Virginia, it rises to 3950 feet above the level of the great
+western rivers, being two or three hundred feet higher than Ben
+Lomond. The High Peak on the Rocky Mountains is the highest mountain
+in the United States, and attains an elevation of 12,500 feet. Mount
+Washington, the highest of the White Mountains, is 6234 feet in
+height; Mansfield, in Vermont, the most lofty of the Green Mountains,
+is somewhat higher than Ben Nevis in Scotland, as it rises to 4279
+feet. I ascended the Alleghany by a good road, that wound gradually up
+the side of the mountain, and after a walk of about three hours and a
+half, I was in full contemplation of the most extensive forest view I
+had ever yet beheld. I have seen many of the dark and impenetrable pine
+forests in the north of Europe, where the mountains are far higher, and
+the scenery proportionably grander, but I never remember a forest so
+interminable as that I am speaking of. One small patch of cultivation
+was perceivable in a very distant valley, called, I believe, Penn’s
+Valley. The vast thickets of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, are chiefly
+of pine trees, and are grand and gloomy enough, but sometimes tiresome
+from their monotony. Nature has painted them with her usual ability;
+but the colouring she has employed may be compared to that of a
+drawing in Indian ink, equally creditable to the artist, but not so
+pleasing to the eye as a many-tinted picture. There are plenty of pines
+on the Alleghany, but there is also an immense assemblage of other
+trees. A lady informed me, that being desirous of sending to England
+specimens of the different woods of this part of the country, she
+collected fifty-two without any difficulty; but there are many more
+than these. The principal material of the American navy is, as I have
+before noticed, afforded by the live-oak, so called from its being
+an evergreen, and from its elasticity, extreme durability, and other
+generous properties. The leaf of this tree resembles the ilex of Spain
+and England, but is rather larger, and more pointed. It is not found in
+Pennsylvania—growing in the southern States chiefly, in Georgia and
+the Carolinas, whence it is conveyed to the different dock-yards of the
+Union.
+
+There are here, nevertheless, more than thirty varieties of the
+oak, each bearing a distinct fruit: of these, the white-oak, which
+is inferior in quality but comes the nearest to the navy-oak of
+Great Britain; the red-oak, the black, and the rock, or scrub-oak,
+are the most common. The other trees of the forest, are usually the
+Spanish-chestnut (two varieties)—the horse-chestnut is not indigenous
+in America, but thrives well; I saw one at the Manor near Baltimore—the
+hickory (two varieties); the black-walnut; the American-poplar, or
+tulip-tree, the pride of the American forest, and growing frequently to
+an enormous size; yellow, white, spruce, and hemlock pines—the larch
+is not found, or is rarely to be met with, in the United States: I
+have not seen them in the Canadas—bass-wood, or common English-lime;
+sugar-maple, white maple, red and white elm, willow, sassafras, black
+and yellow birch, ash, gum-tree, beech, iron-wood, mulberry, dog-wood,
+rhododendron in great quantities, kalmea, latifolia, hazel, red and
+white cedar, clematis, virginiana, indigo, and a great variety of ferns
+and wild vines.
+
+In the autumn, or fall, as it is universally and prettily termed in
+America, the forest view is excessively beautiful, in consequence of
+the brilliant assemblage of colours exhibited by the diversity of
+foliage collected together. My eye roved over a constant succession
+of mountain and valley, and hill and hollow, all alike clothed in the
+glorious forest garb, whilst the more distant tints became bluer and
+bluer, till they faded away at the farthest verge of the horizon.
+The Indian had long been driven or bought out from this part of the
+country; but the rocks and thickets of the forest beneath me had
+doubtless concealed many an ambush, and witnessed many a carnage. They
+had responded to the sharp twang of the rifle, and re-echoed the more
+terrific war-whoop; but during the time that I remained on the top of
+the mountain, all around me was as silent as the place was solitary,
+with the exception of the occasional stroke from the peaceful axe of
+the back-woodsman, that resounded from a glade about a mile from the
+spot where I had sat down to rest myself.
+
+I soon afterwards passed the Moshanan Creek, in which an expert
+fisherman on a favourable day can kill any quantity of trout he
+pleases. Beside the bridge, is a small and solitary tavern, kept by an
+Englishman from Gloucestershire. With him resides an old man named
+Joseph Earl, a complete specimen of the real backwoodsman; just such
+a character as Leatherstocking, in Mr. Cooper’s novel. He will take
+his rifle and his knapsack, and frequently absent himself for weeks
+at a time in search of game. If he kill a deer, he will carry off
+the skin, and hang up the venison in a secure place, and from his
+intimate acquaintance with the mountains, and every settler who lives
+in them, no long time elapses before he can command any assistance
+he may require. The principal tenants of the forest are the cougar
+or painter (panther), as it is very improperly termed; the bear, the
+wolf, the lynx (called the cat-a-mount), the wild cat, the marmot,
+the racoon, the opossum, and red and grey foxes. The deer, which in
+some places is very abundant, is the cervus virginianus, a species
+unknown in Europe, of a size between the red and common fallow deer,
+with a small palmated horn. Beside this there are but two species of
+deer found in the eastern States, the moose deer, or great Siberian
+elk, and the American elk, four of which were exhibited in London
+some years ago under the coined name of wapiti, and which have bred
+very well in England. Other kinds of deer, and goats, and sheep, and
+an antelope from the Rocky Mountains, are exhibited in the Zoological
+museum. The reindeer is found in the colder latitudes of Lower Canada,
+where it exists in large herds. A species of stag of gigantic size,
+with enormous horns, which Humboldt considers as a distinct species,
+is very common in the forests and plains of New California. He thinks
+it probable that the horns which were displayed by Montezuma to the
+companions of Cortez, as objects of curiosity on account of their
+immense size, belonged to this animal. A species of the same genus
+as the European chevreuil, or roebuck, is also found in Canada and
+some of the States. It is larger, and longer eared than the European
+animal. Of the cervus virginianus, or common deer of America, a single
+hunter will sometimes kill two or three in a day; but will more often
+go without a shot, as they are very wild, and their sense of smelling
+exceedingly acute. A still day is unfavourable; a windy day is the
+best, as the sportsman can then come very near them on the windward
+side. The cougar is their greatest enemy, but is luckily not very
+common. A few years ago an American gentleman who had taken up his
+shooting-quarters at the tavern I have just mentioned, wounded a deer,
+and tracked it by the blood. On coming up with it, he observed a cougar
+on the animal; he fired, and had the satisfaction to see it drop dead.
+When he approached, he saw another, that had crouched behind the body
+of the deer. He disabled him, and killed him with the third shot. As he
+was returning, he killed another deer, and brought all the four skins
+with him to the tavern. The old Englishman shewed me the scalp of a
+deer that had been killed during the last season: a cougar was in full
+pursuit of him; and the deer took to the water close by the tavern.
+The cougar sprang on him in the water, but made off when he saw one of
+the old man’s sons approaching with a rifle, from which the poor deer
+received his death-wound immediately afterwards. I found that there was
+a penalty of five dollars for killing a deer at this season of the year.
+
+The winged game of these forests are—the wild turkey, which being
+pursued with avidity by the sportsman, is becoming more scarce every
+day: it is larger than the tame turkey, and its plumage closely
+resembles that of the dark-coloured domesticated bird, but is rather
+more brilliant; the pheasant, which is a species of wood-grouse; the
+partridge, which should rather be termed a quail, but which is, in
+fact, as I have hereafter noticed, neither one nor the other; the
+woodcock, snipe, pigeons, and wild fowl, in great abundance.
+
+The largest snakes found in these forests, are the rattle-snake,
+the copper-head, or moccasin-snake, so called from its yellow
+colour, resembling that of the moccasin, or Indian sandal; and the
+black-snake. The latter grows to the length of seven or eight feet,
+and even longer. It moves with great rapidity, is a species of the
+boa-constrictor, and its habits and manner of taking its prey are
+similar to those of that tremendous reptile. The bite is not poisonous.
+The copper-head is a very dangerous snake, as it gives no warning
+like the rattle-snake. Its name is its description, as far as it goes.
+Its length is about three feet. The rattle-snake is too well known
+to need much description: it invariably raises its tail and rattles
+before it strikes, so that, in general, it can be easily avoided. The
+Indians consider this as proof of its noble nature, and accordingly
+they never destroy it, believing that it has something divine in it.
+A large rattle-snake would measure four feet in length, perhaps, or a
+little more, but is very thick in proportion. When about to attack,
+it suddenly coils itself, with the tail raised, and rattling in the
+middle of the coil, and can strike from nearly its whole length. It is
+a very spirited animal; and from its moving but slowly out of the way,
+is destroyed with little difficulty. Much has been said of the extreme
+danger of its bite, and of the number of persons bitten; but like the
+accidents from canine madness in England, they are far more often heard
+of than met with. It is most probable that a person would die, unless
+immediately assisted,—or have at all events a very narrow escape,
+if bitten on any part of the body that happened to be naked; but if
+struck through his clothes, so great a proportion of poison is by them
+absorbed, or prevented from coming in contact with the blood, that the
+bite, if taken in time, is not dangerous.
+
+It is a well known and singular fact, that the body of a person
+bitten, will sometimes change whilst under the influence of the
+poison, to the colour of the snake that bit him. The plant called the
+rattle-snake weed (bidens frondosa) is a remedy used by the Indians,
+and sometimes, I was credibly informed, with great effect. The leaves
+and root are boiled in milk and used as a poultice; the milk is also
+taken internally. In Mr. Pratt’s botanical garden at Philadelphia, I
+saw a specimen of another plant which is also considered efficacious
+(polygela senaga) called by the French “l’herbe a serpente a
+sonnettes.” It grows in damp and shady parts of the woods, to a height
+of about two feet; has a small pointed leaf, and a single fusiform
+root, resembling a piece of stick-liquorice. I was, however, assured by
+a physician of eminence at Philadelphia, that the only remedy he had
+never known to fail, was the speedy application of a cupping glass to
+the wound, and a large tea spoonful of ammonia in a wine glass filled
+with water, administered every hour till the symptoms took a favourable
+turn. It is well known that hogs soon destroy every snake in the woods
+around a settlement. They eat them, and are seldom known to suffer
+from the bite, owing, it is said, to the quantity of fat in their
+system. Almost every wild animal is their enemy; small birds will often
+peck at them, although at the same time credence is certainly to be
+given to the stories of fascination or terror by which small animals,
+such as squirrels and birds, are sometimes rendered unable to escape
+from them. Deer will crush them to death, by jumping on them with all
+their four feet brought close together. I was frequently told that
+rattle-snakes were common here and there; but still I never saw one:
+the fact is, that they generally lie concealed. A person travelling
+in the woods, will sometimes come suddenly upon fifty or a hundred
+of them basking on the rocks. They all retire as the cold weather
+approaches, and lie torpid during the whole winter; so that a sportsman
+is in no danger from them. A French gentleman, who a year or two ago
+was shooting grouse very early in the season, on the mountains in New
+Jersey, was suddenly struck near his hip by a rattle-snake of the
+largest size; thanks to his loose fustain trowsers, the fangs did not
+touch him; the brute could not extricate itself, and hung upon him till
+stunned by repeated blows from his gun.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Philipsburg is rapidly increasing, under the advantages of English
+superintendence: it contains about eight hundred inhabitants in the
+town and environs. It is almost exclusively the property of one
+English gentleman, who is master of nearly 70,000 acres in that part
+of the country. While I partook of his hospitality, I was agreeably
+surprised by the circle of English society, which I found collected
+under his roof. Several English have made Philipsburg their place of
+residence. Its advantages consist in a remarkably healthy situation on
+the western slope of the Alleghanies, where the descent is so gradual
+as to be hardly perceptible; an easy and constant communication with
+Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh on the Ohio; excellent trout-fishing, and
+shooting in the forest; a very cheap market (a sheep or deer can be
+bought for a dollar), and excellent medical advice. Uncleared land may
+be purchased at one, two, or three dollars an acre.
+
+The large beaver dams in this neighbourhood afford the finest pasture
+imaginable. They run for several miles along the side of the Moshanan
+Creek. What is now called a beaver dam, is not merely the fence or
+dam which that industrious animal had thrown across the stream, but
+the whole meadow over which the water was spread in consequence of
+its being arrested in its course. The beaver was held sacred by the
+Indians, and their habitations were probably undisturbed for centuries.
+The stream, when checked in its career by the dam which those
+extraordinary animals had constructed, found its level, of course, in
+every nook to which it could gain access; and tree and shrub rotted
+away with so much moisture. As the beaver was destroyed, or driven out
+by the progress of civilization, the dams gave way, and the stream soon
+returned to its former channel, and the bottom of the pond or dam is
+converted into a fine meadow, exceedingly valuable for the purposes of
+the grazier. A person may travel through the forest for many miles,
+and will suddenly emerge upon a green open space, with scarcely a
+tree or shrub upon it, although at the same time it be surrounded by
+a leafy wall of the loftiest forest trees. An English gentleman had
+just commenced a farm on one of these dams, and I rode about six miles
+through the woods to visit him. The place had much the appearance of an
+English park, which deer and other wild animals would frequently cross,
+and sometimes within rifle-shot from his window. It was more than a
+mile in length, with the shape and appearance of a billiard table.
+
+At Philipsburg, and in the neighbourhood, are several iron works. I
+visited a curious screw manufactory there: the machine for heading the
+screws was invented on the spot, and probably there is not such another
+to be found any where. It turned out about sixty screws in a minute,
+and finished them off with a neatness that would excite the surprise
+even of a mechanist.
+
+I have before mentioned that Philadelphia will shortly be connected
+with the Ohio river, by means of the Columbia rail-road, from which
+the great Pennsylvania canal will soon be finished to the foot of the
+Alleghany mountains, where it will be joined by another rail-road,
+which will pass the mountains, and communicate with Pittsburg. Another
+rail-road will, most probably, be constructed, so as to intersect
+the same canal a little above Huntingdon. It will come from the
+bituminous coal district, which lies about Philipsburg and Clearfield
+county, and is spread over a great extent of ground on the western
+slope of the Alleghany. Plenty of stone or anthracite coal is to be
+found in many parts of Pennsylvania, and in vast quantities; but the
+bituminous coal used in the transatlantic cities is supplied either
+from Liverpool, from Nova Scotia, or from Virginia. The particles
+of the Virginia coal, however, are too much divided, and it more
+resembles the coal used by a blacksmith, than the Newcastle coal.
+I have understood that bituminous coal has been lately discovered,
+although in very small quantities, in Pennsylvania, on the eastern
+side of the mountain. The anthracite coal throws out a very powerful
+heat, but is very troublesome and unmanageable, requiring a long time
+before it will kindle properly; burning without flame or smoke, and
+creating an unpleasant and rather unhealthy dryness in the atmosphere
+of a room. An experiment had been successfully tried in New York, by
+which the anthracite coal had been rendered subservient to the purposes
+of the steam-engine. It was contrived that a stream of hydrogen-gas,
+generated by part of the engine, should flow constantly over the
+burning coal, so that a powerful flame was thus fed under the boiler.
+But in all cases where a manageable fire is required, the bituminous
+coal is far preferable. By means of the Philipsburg rail-road, the
+whole country will be supplied with this valuable mineral, at a very
+moderate expense, from the inexhaustible stores on the western slope
+of the Alleghany. The necessity of making cheaper iron is becoming
+daily more imperative in the United States. For this end, to say
+nothing of the carriage of timber, the Philipsburg rail-road will be
+very advantageous, as it will bring down the coal to be converted into
+coke, to be used in the smelting furnaces; and it will pass through
+the midst of the Juniata iron district, where more than twenty forges
+and furnaces already exist in full activity; and whose increasing
+importance calls for a more adequate and expeditious mode of conveyance
+than it at present commands. The whole country will be much benefited;
+and independently of the real and lasting advantages to be gained by
+the construction of the Philipsburg rail-road, an early attention to
+the plan, from the proper quarter, will be but justice to the exertions
+of a gentleman, who, with his brothers before him, has devoted time
+and capital to the enterprise, and has called into existence a highly
+respectable community, and the most thriving and useful settlement in
+the back woods of Pennsylvania.
+
+
+[Illustration:
+  G.T. Vigne delṭ
+
+  T. S. Engleheart, sculpṭ
+
+  NORTHUMBERLAND, ON THE SUSQUEHANNA, PENNSYLVANIA.
+
+  _Published by Whittaker & C^o. April 10, 1832._]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+I left Philipsburg, and returned to Belfont, whence I took the
+road to Northumberland. In about six hours I again came in sight
+of the Susquehanna, flowing through an extensive valley, with its
+lofty southern bank robed to the very summit by a covert so thickly
+interwoven as to be absolutely impassable. I proceeded down the side
+of the river till I arrived at the ferry at Dunnsburg. Here I met
+with a piece of singular incivility and impudence. The insolent young
+Charon allowed me to place my luggage in his leaky bark; but as I was
+proceeding to take my seat, he “calkilated,” with the most disagreeable
+twang (at least, I thought so) that I had yet heard, “that I must pay
+him a fip (five-penny bit) before I put my foot into his boat.” It was
+all in vain that I pointed to my portmanteau, intimating that it would
+be “assets” for the payment of my passage to the other side. Nothing
+would satisfy him but my fip beforehand; and I was obliged to pay it.
+It appeared that some stage-passengers had gone off without paying, and
+he did not wish to be cheated a second time. The guard who arrived with
+the mail, was so enraged at his conduct, that he actually took out one
+of the horses, crammed him through the river, and arrived safely on
+the other side with the letter-bags.
+
+Within a mile or two of Dunnsburg, are some Indian tumuli; but I did
+not stop to see them. I travelled onward through a most delightful
+country, abounding in black-oak; the bark of which is sent down the
+river, and shipped off in great quantities for England, where it is
+used in dying. I enjoyed a very fine view from the hill over which the
+road passes near Moncey; but I afterwards saw the same prospect to
+much greater advantage, from Northumberland. This place contains about
+two thousand inhabitants, and is most delightfully situated on the
+neck of land that separates the northern and western branches of the
+Susquehanna. The celebrated Dr. Priestley spent the latter years of his
+life in this place. He died about twenty-five years ago. I was assured
+by an old and intimate friend of his, who was with him but a few
+minutes before he died, that there was great foundation for a prevalent
+belief, that for some months previously to his death, he changed his
+opinions in favour of the divinity of Christ.
+
+Good land, in a state of cultivation, is worth twenty, thirty, forty,
+or even a hundred dollars the acre, in this part of the country. The
+average profits of land amount to twelve and a half per cent. Thirty
+bushels of wheat is a good crop. The wages of the married labourer are
+fifteen dollars a month (the United States dollar is equal to 4_s._
+6_d._). Single men, who board at the house of their employer, receive
+but ten. Wherever I made inquiry, I found the rate of labourers’ wages
+to be much the same throughout the States.
+
+I crossed the western branch of the Susquehanna by a new and handsome
+wooden bridge, built as usual on stone piers. Its length was 1316 feet,
+and it cost 70,000 dollars. I then immediately ascended the heights
+on the other side. From them I had a full view of both branches of
+this “shining river,” an appellation which none deserves better than
+the Susquehanna. I preferred the scenery around Moncey to that in
+the direction of Wyoming. The sun was declining behind the precipice
+on which I stood, which was thrown more and more into shade, as the
+red rays glanced through the pines on its summit, and swept downward
+into the broad and beautiful valley beneath me. The windings of the
+river were visible to a great distance. Although considerably larger,
+it strongly reminded me of the Thames seen from Richmond-hill. Its
+tranquil lake-like stream meandered through the country, encircling
+several islands: at one time gliding in silence through the forest,
+or emerging to roll its waters over a rich and extensive meadow, it
+freshened every thing in its course; and when it had fully performed
+the task of ornament and usefulness allotted to it by nature, it seemed
+to lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains, from which in
+reality it issued.
+
+Beautiful as it is, yet, were this England, I could not help thinking,
+how different would be the appearance of the country! I am gazing on
+a view, as splendid as any one of the same character I ever beheld in
+any land,—I see before me a noble river, winding its way through an
+exquisite landscape, of hill and dale, and wood and verdure, abounding
+in every resource that could make a country life agreeable; but it is
+in vain that my disappointed eye roves over the scene, and rests on the
+most magnificent situations for park and palace: where, thought I, are
+the “stately homes of England?”—where is the marble-fronted hall, and
+the village church beside it, with its spire pointing to the heavens?
+The powerless genius of embellishment wanders disconsolate along the
+beautiful banks of the Susquehanna, and bitterly complains that he is
+fettered by the spirit of democracy.
+
+I am far from meaning to infer in the above passage, that there is
+any lack of churches in the United States. On the contrary, they are
+numerous. As an Englishman, I am here speaking merely with reference to
+situation, and the association of ideas excited in my mind.
+
+The Americans, in general, are not fond of comparisons between England
+and their own country, except in cases where the balance is in their
+favour; but still, I have often observed that there is no subject
+of conversation more gladly discussed by an American gentleman, and
+more particularly by those who have country houses of their own,
+than the splendour of the seats of our nobility and gentry, and the
+perfection of society which is enjoyed at them. There is nothing in
+England so apt to elicit from them a remark of honest regret, as their
+knowledge of the very remote probability, I may almost add, the utter
+hopelessness, of their ever being able to boast of seats and villas
+at all equal to those on this side of the Atlantic, so long as the
+present form of government exists in full force. Who would build a
+really splendid mansion, which, after his death, will probably either
+become a ruin, or be sold, and converted into an hospital? or who would
+clear and beautify a park of any extent, to be divided and ploughed
+up by his needy successors? I have seen country houses in America,
+whose delightful situation, and gentlemanly appearance, (although it
+must be allowed, they often look their best at a distance), only serve
+to render the prospect of division the more melancholy. I have been
+kindly received at many of them: I have usually noticed a due attention
+to comfort and elegance, and invariably, to kindness and hospitality;
+but I have not been able to avoid a remark, that there did not appear
+to be much difference in the size of the houses, or the extent of the
+grounds, as if there existed a general and mournful acknowledgment,
+that a just medium was to be observed between the expense incurred with
+reference to present enjoyment, and the probability of an ultimate loss
+of capital, when the future was regarded. I could name a few, but very
+few, exceptions.
+
+Whatever the Americans may think of their institutions in other
+respects, there are many sensible Americans—and I have met with
+them—who will acknowledge the inefficacy of these to counteract
+the disadvantages, not to say miseries, sometimes arising from
+the non-existence of the law of primogeniture. The object is, to
+exclude the preponderance of wealth, because it tends to generate
+an aristocracy of political power. The non-existence of the law of
+primogeniture is, I think, with great deference, but lamely defended
+by Chancellor Kent, in his admirable Commentaries on American Law,
+and which, by the way, are most richly deserving of a place in every
+library, if it be merely on account of the learned dissertations
+on the history of every republic of note that has ever existed. He
+quotes Adam Smith in support of his opinions; the Marquess Garnier,
+his French translator; and the Baron de Stael Holstein,—and although
+he acknowledges the attendant evils, yet he says it would be an error
+to suppose that they have been already felt. But surely there are
+some which he does not contemplate in his work; but which must be
+acknowledged to have a miserable effect upon the state of society. A
+sale, not unattended with sacrifice, takes place at the decease of
+nearly every person who dies in possession of landed property. This
+is followed by a minute division of the proceeds amongst the next of
+kin. As to the law of dower, it is much the same as that of England
+generally; but where the sale has been made, the produce is considered
+as real estate so far, and the widow receives an annuity from one
+third in lieu of her dower. This does not effect the distribution of
+the remainder, which is divided as in England. It often happens, that
+the share of each person, if young, is just enough to purchase his
+destruction.
+
+Very frequently, but in some States more than others, its most
+prominent application is detected by the effects of a vicious
+indulgence in ardent spirits, principally among the second and
+lower classes. Drunkenness still prevails to an alarming extent,
+notwithstanding the benign presence of the temperate societies. I
+have heard the most melancholy and appalling accounts of its ravages
+in private life; and in one place I was informed of its disgusting
+influence over judicial morality. The root of the evil is in the
+expectations which are formed: it is the certainty of actual possession
+of property at a future time, accompanied by ignorance as to its
+amount, that so often cherishes in the children the most dissolute
+habits of idleness, with all their attendant evils. Supposing both
+of them in the same easy circumstances as country gentlemen, and
+fathers of families, how different must of necessity be the sentiments
+of an American and an Englishman, when they survey their respective
+fire sides! Both see around them their wives and children, in the
+possession of affluence and comfort, and happy in the enjoyment of
+each other’s society. But in the event of his death, how gloomy may be
+the picture drawn by the one, in opposition to that contemplated by
+the other! A divided estate and a dispersed family, present themselves
+to the mind of the American; or perhaps a small part of them living
+together, but unable to command any share of the luxuries, and not many
+of the comforts they enjoy during his lifetime, in consequence of a
+secession of property by marriage, or decrease of it from dissipation.
+The Englishman feels a debt of gratitude to the constitution of his
+country: in the event of his death, his house, in the possession of
+his eldest son, will be a home for his widow and a place of meeting
+for his children. His younger sons have been brought up under the idea
+that they are to be the architects of their own fortunes, and such a
+doctrine has not rendered them unhappy, because it has enforced the
+virtue of contentment. The law of primogeniture perpetuates, through
+the eldest son, a species of parental affection and authority; and
+where there is a title to descend, there is a further inducement to
+the eldest son to emulate the virtues or the actions of an illustrious
+father; or, if that father has brought disgrace upon a distinguished
+name or sullied the escutcheon of a distinguished family (which, be
+it added, is sometimes the case), the son may be naturally desirous
+of wiping away the stain, and of giving the benefit of his example
+to society, by his imitation of the character of a nobler ancestor.
+There is yet a further deficiency of inducement to exertion existing
+in the American, and in every other democracy. In England, a young man
+in the enjoyment of a sufficient income, and who is consequently not
+obliged to labour at any profession with a view to its increase, yet
+with the possibility of obtaining a title, will exert his abilities to
+the utmost; but in America, the stimulus of titled distinction being
+unknown, it must often happen that the finest talents are doomed to
+remain unemployed.
+
+I crossed the north branch of the Susquehanna, and passed on to the
+town of Sunbury, on the bank of the main river, and about two miles
+distant from Northumberland. Sunbury is a very pretty country town,
+with a delightful promenade along the side of the river. In all parts
+of the vicinity there are some beautiful prospects: near it, a very
+large dam has been thrown across the stream, where, by the junction of
+its two branches, it spreads out, and forms a basin three quarters of a
+mile across. I observed some fishermen hauling their nets, and went up
+to them. They had taken some cat-fish, and several salmon. The cat-fish
+has obtained its name from its appearance: its head, which is out of
+all proportion to its body, is large and round, with the addition of
+two worm-like appendages projecting beneath the eyes, like the whiskers
+of a cat. It is altogether a dark, ugly-looking fish; but is eatable,
+with a flavour something like that of an eel, but inferior. In the
+larger western rivers it sometimes attains a weight of eighty or one
+hundred pounds. The fish improperly called the salmon, in no respects
+resembles the real salmon of Great Britain. It has none of the
+peculiarities of the salmo genus; and does not rise at a fly. In figure
+it is not remarkable; in colour it is more similar to the pike than to
+any fish I am acquainted with. The weight of those usually taken, is
+about a pound; but some of them are larger. A fly-fisher would have but
+moderate sport on the Susquehanna; but he might kill a great variety
+of fish, if he condescended to use a bait, and might occasionally
+take a large trout with a minnow. The river contains pike and eels,
+of immense size; trout, not numerous; rock-fish, cat-fish, suckers,
+common and silver perch—a beautiful fish; and a very small species of
+lamprey, that is only used as a bait. The shad is also found in great
+quantities in this and almost all the rivers of the Eastern States.
+It is excellent eating, and usually weighs about four pounds; but I
+thought the flavour of the Susquehanna salmon equal, if not superior,
+to any fish I tasted in the United States. I should almost presume that
+it was peculiar to that river, as I have frequently met with natives of
+other States who had never heard of it.
+
+At Sunbury, I chanced to be told that three Yorkshiremen had just been
+taken up. I would bet three to one, said I to myself, that their crime
+is horse-stealing! and so it proved when I made inquiry.
+
+I here turned my steps away from the Susquehanna, which for placid
+beauty surpassed in my opinion any other river in the States, and
+proceeded towards Philadelphia, by way of Pottsville and Reading.
+Scarcely more than a year ago there were but a few houses at the former
+place; but in consequence of the immediate vicinity of enormous beds of
+anthracite coal, and the improved means of conveyance to Philadelphia,
+its size and importance had increased in a most extraordinary manner.
+
+The country around Philadelphia is very flat; so that I could not
+find a rising ground to take a sketch from, at what I considered the
+best distance. But, I think, in passing down the river, in my way to
+Baltimore, I perceived a small cliff on the left bank, that would have
+answered the purpose, being distant about two miles and a half. A view
+in a flat country requires great minuteness, if it be taken correctly,
+and would have occupied too much time; besides, before commencing a
+drawing of either of the larger cities in the Union, it really became
+a matter of consideration, that I had but one cake of “Newman’s light
+red” in my colour-box.
+
+A fine steamer carried me down the Delaware. About thirty-five miles
+from Philadelphia, we passed Wilmington and Brandywine. We were
+then landed at the mouth of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal, and
+were towed onward, at a brisk trot, in one of the canal boats, and
+soon entered the Elk river, near the head waters of Chesapeake bay.
+The country was flat; and a great proportion of it was covered with
+forest. Here we went on board another steam-boat, that rattled us along
+at a tremendous pace down the Chesapeake, passing the mouth of the
+Susquehanna. The captain assured me that upon one occasion, during a
+camp-meeting, he had carried no less than fifteen hundred persons at a
+time; he landed them during the night, and about two hundred got away
+without paying their passage.
+
+In an hour or two, the North Point, at the entrance of the Patapsco
+river, became visible. General Ross landed here, with the British
+force of 5000 men, on the 12th of September, 1814, and met his death
+in the skirmish that ensued shortly afterwards. I rode from Baltimore
+to the spot where he fell, marked by a small plain stone-monument, by
+the side of the road. The last four miles out of fourteen lay through a
+very pretty wood, affording a most grateful shade. When we were within
+two miles from the city, we passed Fort Mac Henry, which was bombarded
+upon the same occasion, almost from the extremity of the range of a
+shell. Some of them, where they fell, penetrated the ground to a depth
+of five or six feet.
+
+Baltimore, when viewed from the Chesapeake, appears to be built
+over several low hills, or slopes, and surrounded by others that
+are considerably higher. Its situation is much finer than that
+of Philadelphia. It is not so fine as that of New York; but in
+some respects, is, I think, superior to Boston. When approached by
+water, the most conspicuous objects are—Washington’s monument, the
+shot-towers, the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the Unitarian church,
+all scattered in different parts of the city. Washington’s monument
+is a plain column of marble, raised on a square base, 175 feet in
+height, and surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington. It is seen
+from a great distance on every side, and commands the finest and most
+extensive prospect; but I am very much inclined to doubt the taste
+that placed any other than an allegorical object on the top of a lofty
+pillar. The size of the column, and its simplicity, are calculated
+to excite admiration; but in my humble judgment, it would have been
+much better to have had a really fine statue placed inside the base of
+the column, than to perch the General upon a height that would make
+a living Admiral feel giddy. Lord Hill’s monument, near Shrewsbury,
+and that to the memory of General Brock, at Queenstown, are, I think,
+objectionable, for the same reasons. The battle monument is much
+prettier, although it is somewhat florid in its ornaments: it is
+fifty-four feet in height. The column is a circular fasces, symbolical
+of the Union, twined round with fillets, bearing the names of those
+who fell on the 12th and 13th of September, 1814; and supporting an
+allegorical statue of a female, personifying the city of Baltimore,
+with a bald eagle, the United States’ emblem, at her side. The
+Archbishop of Maryland is the metropolitan of the States. The Catholic
+cathedral is a handsome building, with a dome in imitation of the
+Pantheon. The inside, which is divided into pews, contains two very
+good pictures from the French school: a descent from the cross, by
+Paul Guerin, presented by Louis XVI.; and St. Louis burying his dead
+officers and soldiers before Tunis, by Steaben, presented by Charles
+X. The descent from the cross is much and deservedly admired. It has
+the merit of being free from that tedious detail that is usually to
+be observed in the works of French artists, who paint every thing
+as it is, and not as it appears. It occurred to me, that the body
+of Christ did not sufficiently rest on the ground, as intended. The
+latter picture displays more of the French taste. I did not like
+it so well, but many prefer it to the other. At Baltimore, is the
+University of Maryland, which ranks very high as a medical school.
+The average expenses of a student are one hundred and twenty dollars
+per annum. It has also professors in law and divinity. St. Mary’s
+College and Baltimore College are also justly celebrated throughout
+the Union; the latter will accommodate one hundred and fifty students,
+who are instructed, by twelve professors, in the ancient and modern
+languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, &c. The city also contains
+a good museum, which I did, and many more public buildings, which I
+did not visit, as I could not learn that there was any thing in them
+particularly deserving of attention. The theatre was not open.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The waters of the Chesapeake and the Patapsco are the favourite resort
+of the canvas-back duck, which I had always been told was the greatest
+delicacy imaginable; and, “like nothing else, sir! I assure ye!” The
+sporting commences early in November, and affords most excellent sport.
+An experienced shot will sometimes kill three dozen in a morning
+with a single gun; and occasionally they are shot on the wing with a
+single rifle. The canvas-back duck very much resembles the red-headed
+wigeon, or common dun-bird. Lucien Bonaparte, who has so well continued
+Wilson’s work on American Ornithology, has successfully shown that it
+is quite a different bird. It is about half as large again, with a
+black and different formed bill and black legs. Those of the red-headed
+wigeon are of a dark lead colour. They breed on the borders of the
+great lakes, or about Hudson’s Bay; but in the winter months, they
+are found in prodigious quantities on the Chesapeake, the Patapsco,
+and the Potamac. Its flavour is owing to the root of the Vallissneria
+Americana, or wild celery, on which it feeds, and for which it will
+dive to a depth of eight or ten feet. The red-headed wigeon, when in
+company with the canvas-back, will often wait till it has risen from
+the bottom, and then snatch from it the hard-earned morsel. The _bons
+vivants_ of America, talk of the canvas-back with an interest that
+borders on affection, and is sometimes very amusing. “Sir,” said an old
+fellow to me, “I wished to give a duck feast, and accordingly I bought
+nine couple of them, all fresh killed, and all of the right weight. I
+stuffed them into every corner of my gig; and would not suffer the cook
+to touch them, except in my presence. I dressed them all myself, in
+different ways, in my parlour, so as to have them all done according
+to figure, sir! Well, sir! all my company had arrived, except an old
+German; we could not wait, and sat down without him. When he came, he
+exclaimed, ‘What! noshing but duckhs!’ I started up in a rage, sir! a
+violent rage, sir! ‘Noshing but duckhs!’ I repeated after him: Why,
+you d——d old scoundrel, said I, your own Emperor of Austria never
+had such a dinner: he could not, sir, though he gave the best jewel in
+his crown for it.” I tasted these birds several times before I quitted
+America, and they certainly are extremely good. The meat is dark,
+and should be sent to table underdone, or what in America is called
+“rare.” I think the flavour might be imitated by a piece of common wild
+duck, and a piece of fine juicy venison, tasted at the same time. The
+word “rare” used in that sense, and which is given by Johnson, on the
+authority of Dryden, is no doubt one of many which have retained in
+America, a meaning in which they are not now used in England, but which
+was doubtless carried over the Atlantic by the settlers of a hundred
+years ago. I confess that I was for some time in error. I heard every
+one around me giving orders that his meat should be “rare,” and I
+thought it a mispronunciation of the word raw.
+
+The environs of Baltimore are exceedingly pretty: almost every eminence
+is crowned with a country house, surrounded by gardens and pleasure
+grounds richly wooded, and laid out to the best advantage, so as
+generally to afford a peep through the trees at some part of the
+Patapsco, or the Chesapeake. They are admirably adapted for a fête
+champêtre, or a strawberry party, as it is called at Baltimore. I had
+the honour of an invitation to the only one that was given during my
+stay in that city. The company assembled about six o’clock. Quadrilles
+and waltzes were kept up with great spirit, first on the lawn, and
+then in the house till about eleven. In the mean time strawberries
+and cream, ices, pine apples, and champagne, were served up in the
+greatest profusion. I had understood, and am quite ready to admit, that
+Baltimore deservedly enjoys a high reputation for female beauty. I am
+speaking of the American ladies in general, when I remark that it is no
+injustice to them to maintain, that where you will see twenty pretty
+girls, you will not see one really handsome woman. I have frequently
+observed the prettiest features,—such as more reminded me of England,
+than of any other country; but I think that most Europeans who have
+formed a correct taste from the “stone ideal” of Greece, would agree
+with me that ladies with pretensions to that higher degree of beauty,
+are not so often to be met with in America as in England. There is one
+particular in which they would do well to imitate my fair countrywomen.
+They have great charms for the breakfast table; but yet, elegant and
+lady-like as many of them undoubtedly are, how often have I been
+compelled to wish, that the breakfast table had not quite so many
+charms for them. They _must_ know that to eat is unfeminine; and that
+ladies should in the presence of gentlemen, appear _very_ hungry, is
+a decided proof of a deficiency in national manners,—just as much, or
+even more so, than that men, be they who or what they may, should sit
+with their hats on in the dress circle at New York. The influence of a
+court would extend to, and would remedy all this. I should here again
+remark, that the first society is seldom seen at the theatre, and would
+not be guilty of such behaviour.
+
+It is a matter of great surprise to a stranger, that there is not one
+single promenade at Baltimore. There are some very eligible situations
+immediately adjoining the city, and which to all appearance are so
+easily convertible into a public walk, that it is difficult to
+understand why the ladies do not insist upon its commencement. I would
+most humbly advise them to do so.
+
+I was honoured with an invitation to “the Manor,” the country residence
+of Mr. Carroll, of Carrollton. The house was built long before the
+revolution, and is a curious specimen of Anglo-American architecture,
+somewhat resembling one of those large old parsonage houses which are
+to be seen in some parts of England. It stands in the midst of an
+extensive domain, in a high state of cultivation, and extremely well
+and neatly kept, considering that it is worked by slaves. I could have
+fancied myself in England, but for the loose zigzag fences of split
+logs, which offer to the eye but a poor apology for the English hedge
+row. Hedges of any kind would not, generally speaking, thrive well in
+the United States. It would be necessary, I was told, that they should
+be banked up, in order to keep them from being washed away by the heavy
+rains; and it is probable that during the extreme heat of the summer
+months, they could not obtain moisture sufficient to preserve them from
+being dried up entirely. They are, however, often to be seen close to a
+gentleman’s house, where they can be constantly attended to. I should
+conceive that the aloe hedges of Spain and Portugal, might succeed in
+the United States. It is neither a fault, nor a misfortune, that there
+is no water scenery at “the Manor.” The rivers and lakes of America
+are usually on a vast and magnificent scale, fitted either to bound or
+to deluge a continent; small streams are also common; but a lake for
+instance of a mile or two in length, is seldom to be seen, excepting
+in New England, where they are plentiful. Before I arrived there, I do
+not think that I had seen more than half a dozen ponds, and those all
+in Kentucky. Instead of being thought an advantage, a piece of water
+is avoided; no American, from choice, would build on its banks, as the
+exhalations in the hot weather render such a situation very unhealthy,
+excepting in the more northerly states.
+
+At the manor I partook of that hospitality which is so kindly and
+universally extended to every foreigner who visits Baltimore with
+a proper letter of introduction. Mr. Carroll himself, is the most
+extraordinary individual in America. This venerable old gentleman is in
+his ninety-fifth year, is exceedingly cheerful, enjoys most excellent
+health, and is in good possession of his faculties. He is the only
+survivor of the patriots who signed the Declaration of Independence on
+the 4th of July, 1776. He has always adhered to the federal principles,
+and his valuable estate is one of the very few that have descended in
+a direct line from the first possessor. Mr. Carroll is the grandfather
+of the Ladies Wellesley and Caermarthen.
+
+No one who visits Baltimore should omit seeing the vessels known by
+the name of clippers. They are uncommonly neat single-decked schooners
+usually, but sometimes are rigged like a brig. Their burden is commonly
+about 200 tons. They are cut remarkably sharp at the bows, with a great
+breadth of beam. When lying in the water, the head is considerably
+elevated above the stern, so that, although the masts are nearly at
+right angles with the hull, they appear to rake much more than they
+really do. They will sail on a wind at the rate of seven knots an hour,
+when other fast sailing vessels can make only five and a half, or six;
+but few of them are good sailers before the wind. They usually make
+a voyage to the Havannah, where they are sold for slave ships, or to
+South America, where they are bought by smugglers or pirates, for whose
+occupations they are admirably adapted. They are built nowhere so well
+as at Baltimore.
+
+Two rail-roads had been commenced at Baltimore: one called the
+Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, because it was intended to join that
+river. The exact line of country through which it would pass, was as
+yet a secret with a select few, who would thus be able to secure from
+the owners a refusal of the land through which it passed without being
+obliged to pay an increased price. The other is called the Susquehanna
+rail-road, and was intended to join that river at York-haven, about
+sixty miles below Harrisburg. Deputations have been sent from Baltimore
+to Philadelphia, to obtain the necessary permission to carry it into
+the state of Pennsylvania; but their applications have been, I was
+informed, twice refused. The rail-road, however, is still continued,
+from a well-grounded persuasion that the inhabitants of the western
+parts of Pennsylvania, convinced of the advantages that will accrue
+to them by its affording them another means of carriage for their
+bituminous coal, iron, and timber, will ultimately succeed in obtaining
+a majority in Congress in favour of its completion. But does not a
+jealousy of this kind arise, after a contemplation, however distant,
+of the political horizon? Has it not a prospective reference to the
+interest of the State separately, when the federal government shall be
+no more?
+
+By the constitution of Maryland the governor does not possess the right
+of a veto over the Acts of the general assembly.
+
+More flour is annually inspected at Baltimore, than at any other port
+in the United States excepting New York. The amount for the year
+1830, was 597,804 barrels; but by the returns made since the first
+of January, 1831, it is supposed that the quantity in this year will
+exceed 600,000 barrels. The wheat that is shipped, is sent almost
+exclusively to England; but it bears a very small proportion to the
+flour, although it sells better in the English market—about 70,000
+bushels of wheat were shipped this year for England. The quality in
+general is good, excepting that a portion of it is sometimes tainted
+with garlick; a nuisance that is almost unavoidable, because the plant
+grows spontaneously in the wheat districts. It is said to have been
+first introduced by the Hessians, during the revolutionary war, and it
+has since increased so much, that it cannot be got rid of. The wheat
+exported from Baltimore is grown in the State of Maryland, and in
+many parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania. Money had been plentiful for
+the last two years, and investments that would produce five per cent.
+were not easily to be met with. A market overstocked with imports from
+Europe and India, was the assignable cause: trade was comparatively
+less brisk, and many capitalists withdrew their funds from active
+business, for the purpose of investment in the stock of bank insurance
+and rail-road companies. A great quantity of money was likewise lying
+in the market in consequence of the national debt being in a course
+of reduction by the payment of government loans. However, when I was
+there, money was more scarce, and worth more than six per cent.; the
+exchange on England had risen as high as eleven per cent. per annum,
+and a large quantity of specie had been exported to that country.
+
+At Baltimore, I first saw the fire-fly. They begin to appear about
+sunset, after which they are sparkling in all directions. In some
+places ladies will wear them in their hair, and the effect is said to
+be very brilliant. Mischievous boys will sometimes catch a bull-frog,
+and fasten them all over him. They show to great advantage, while the
+poor frog, who cannot understand the “new lights” that are breaking
+upon him, affords amusement to his tormentors by hopping about in a
+state of desperation.
+
+About thirty miles from Baltimore, on the western shore as it is
+termed, stands Annapolis the capital of Maryland. It is situated at
+the bottom of a fine bay, and contains several curious old houses,
+built long before the revolution. The most conspicuous object is the
+capitol, which is surmounted by a fine steeple. The general assembly
+of Maryland, hold their sittings there, and it was there that General
+Washington resigned to the federal congress the command he had so nobly
+used. It sat there for some time after the independence of the United
+States was established.
+
+At Baltimore, I visited the studies of two very promising young
+artists: Mr. Hubard, an Englishman, is certainly the better painter;
+but has the advantage of four or five years of experience over Mr.
+Miller, who is an American, quite a boy; and whom, I think, at least an
+equal genius. He has had little or no instruction. If sent to Europe,
+as he certainly ought to be, I will venture to predict, that at some
+future period he will be an ornament to his native city; and which he
+certainly never will, or can be, if he does not leave it. Will it be
+credited, that in America, with all her pretensions to good sense and
+general encouragement of emulation and enterprise, the voice of public
+opinion is a bar to the advantage of drawing from a living model?
+Without it, historical painting cannot thrive, and sculpture must be
+out of the question.
+
+I left Baltimore with regret: I had been kindly and hospitably
+treated there,—and in a few hours the mail carried me to Washington.
+This city of distances—this capital that is to be—is laid out upon
+an open piece of undulating down, on the north side of the Potomac.
+The capitol of the United States is built upon the most lofty part
+of it, which is ascended by a fine flight of steps, and altogether
+has a very imposing appearance, being visible at a great distance
+from almost every side. It is of free-stone, which is found on the
+river about thirty miles below the city. In front is a magnificent
+portico of Corinthian columns, and behind it there is another; in the
+same style, (though larger), as that at Wanstead House in Essex, or
+Wentworth Castle in Yorkshire, which is a copy of Wanstead. On the top
+are three domes; that in the centre would look a great deal better
+if it were deeply fluted, like the dome of St. Paul’s; at present it
+would be much better out of the way, as it gives a general appearance
+of heaviness, to what would otherwise be deservedly thought a very
+fine building. From the balustrade is obtained a delightful view of
+the river, and the surrounding country. The centre of the interior
+of the capitol, is occupied by a large open space under the dome,
+containing four pictures, that look very well at a little distance:
+the subjects are the Signing of the Declaration of Independence, the
+Surrender of General Burgoyne, the Surrender of Lord Cornwallis;
+and General Washington resigning his command at Annapolis. They are
+painted by Col. Trumbull. The remainder of the capitol is occupied
+by the apartments and offices connected with the senate, the house
+of representatives, and the supreme court of the United States. The
+pillars which support the roof of the chamber of representatives, are
+of breccia, or pudding-stone; perhaps the most singular formation of
+the kind that is to be found anywhere, not excepting that at Monserrat
+in Spain, which is entirely composed of breccia. Fragments of granite,
+quartz, limestone, and other rocks, have been pressed together in the
+most extraordinary manner, by some stupendous power, and from a little
+distance the composition might be mistaken for the _verd antique_.
+It is found on the Potomac, about thirty miles above Washington. The
+president’s house is a handsome building, with an Ionic portico; and
+the only one in the States that resembles the modern residence of
+a British nobleman. It is exactly at the distance of one mile and a
+half in a straight line from the capitol, and the houses are continued
+beyond it for nearly another. Numerous large streets radiate from the
+capitol and the president’s house, as centres—a method of laying out a
+city far handsomer than that which has been adopted at Philadelphia,
+where the streets cross each other at right angles. Who that has
+seen the “Perspective” at Petersburg, can ever forget it? where the
+principal streets are all pointed towards the beautifully gilt steeple
+of the Admiralty, that is seen glittering at the end of each of them.
+It must be allowed that this arrangement has its disadvantages in the
+shape of the houses, and apartments, one end of which, if they are
+regularly divided, must be larger than the other.
+
+In the dock-yard at Washington, I saw a sixty-gun frigate in a state of
+forwardness, and a small schooner constructed on a plan that had never
+been applied to a vessel of war, being of the same shape fore and aft,
+and having no internal timbers. The blocks made there, are not all of
+one piece, as they are at our dock-yard at Portsmouth. A double block
+for instance, is composed of seven pieces of wood, exclusively of the
+sheave. They are, no doubt, much stronger when made in this manner; but
+a man can make but one in half an hour.
+
+The college at George Town, adjoining the city, is a Catholic
+establishment; its members are Jesuits, and who, as usual, are
+increasing their influence, by purchasing lands, &c. Attached to the
+college, is the nunnery of the Sisters of Visitation, containing about
+fifty nuns. They tell there of a Hohenlohe miracle.
+
+Washington, like most of the American cities, can boast of several
+beautiful rides and walks in its vicinity. Arlington, the seat of
+George Washington P. Castis, Esq., occupies a most conspicuous and
+commanding situation, on the south bank of the Potomac. It is visible
+for many miles, and in the distance has the appearance of a superior
+English country residence, beyond any place I had seen in the States:
+but as I came close to it, as usual, I was wofully disappointed. It
+contains a valuable portrait of Washington, when a Major in the British
+service, and wearing of course the blue-and-buff uniform.
+
+Not far from the race ground, and about three miles from George
+Town, is the residence of a gentleman who has paid greater and more
+indefatigable attention to the culture of the vine than any other
+person in America. The vineyards around his house produce several
+different kinds of grapes; from which, considering how few years have
+elapsed since the attempt was first made, he may be said to have been
+very successful in producing some very good and palatable wines.
+Amongst others, the best is dignified by the very aristocratic name of
+“Tokay.” It is made from the “Catawba” grape, which he himself first
+found in a cottager’s garden, not far from a tavern bearing the sign
+of the Catawba Indians, distant about twenty miles from Washington.
+From this circumstance he called it the Catawba grape. The Catawba
+is a river of South Carolina, but no grape of the kind is found near
+it. The cottagers could give him no satisfactory account of it, and
+he never could find out whether it was indigenous, or, which is most
+likely the fact, imported. It is rather a large grape, thick-skinned,
+but at the same time very transparent, with a fine purple blush, and
+far more fit for making wine than to form part of a dessert. As yet it
+appears to thrive better than any kind of grape that has been tried
+in the United States; so much so, that at Pittsburgh, and Lancaster,
+and other places where there are vineyards, they have cleared away
+a large proportion of the European plants, in favour of the Catawba
+vine. He informed me that he had sent cuttings of it to every State
+in the Union excepting Florida, Arkansaw, and Kentucky. A long time,
+however, must elapse before the Americans can compete with the wines
+of Europe: as yet, comparatively speaking, little can be known there,
+either with reference to the best fruit, or to the soil and temperature
+necessary to bring it to perfection. Upwards of seventy kinds of the
+wild vine are found in the American forests, but not more than half
+of them bear fruit. At Boston I tasted a grape called the Isabella
+grape, whose flavour was still harsh, but was a great and decided
+improvement in every respect, upon the sourness of the fox-grape of the
+woods, from which, I was informed, it had been originally produced. I
+am, of course, speaking of the Catawba and other grapes, only in their
+wine-making capacity; the grapes raised in the United States for the
+table, are exceedingly good and very plentiful.
+
+As a matter of course, I visited Mount Vernon. A steam-boat conveyed me
+to Alexandria in an hour. Alexandria was taken by the British squadron
+on the 29th of August, 1814, and the stores of flour, tobacco, and
+cotton, were carried off by them. It contains a population of 9000
+persons, and carries on a trade in flour, tobacco, fish, and lumber, to
+the southern States and the West Indies, although Baltimore has run
+away with the greater part of its commerce. A ride of nine miles on a
+well-shaded road, conducted me to Mount Vernon, now in possession of
+John Augustine Washington, Esq., nephew to the General, and to the late
+Judge, whose worth and learning are recorded by an inscription in the
+court-house of Philadelphia. Of the house itself there is little to be
+said. I saw there a piece of an old mug, which bears upon it a small
+head of the General, said to be the best likeness of him that is known
+anywhere. From the lawn, there is a fine view of the Potomac with Fort
+Washington nearly opposite, which was abandoned at the approach of the
+British squadron in 1814. In passing Mount Vernon, the ships fired a
+salute it well deserved. I must confess that I was greatly disappointed
+at the sight of the tomb that contains the ashes of Washington. I
+did not expect grandeur, but I thought to have seen something more
+respectable than either the old, or the new tomb, to which the coffin
+was removed two years ago. But for the inscription, I should have
+taken them for a couple of ice-houses. An avoidance of every thing
+like pretension is desirable only so long as it is attended with
+neatness;—but there is not even what can be fairly called a path to
+either of them. Instead of feeling as I wished, whilst in contemplation
+of the last long-home of this really great, because good man, my mind
+was only occupied by intrusive reflections on the insignificant and
+pauper-like appearance of the whole scene before me. The tears of La
+Fayette, when visiting the tomb in 1825, might have partly flowed from
+other sources than the mere consciousness that he was standing in the
+presence of the mortal remains of his old friend and companion in
+arms. There has been some talk of removing the coffin to the centre of
+the hall in the capitol, and of a monument to be raised over it, but
+I have understood that it is not seriously contemplated. If it were
+placed there, it might one day be the means of saving the Union. How
+forcible, how effective, in a moment of danger, might be an eloquent
+appeal to its presence, made by the Judges of the supreme court, or the
+orators of the American congress!
+
+I was never fortunate enough to hear a mocking bird in its wild
+state; I had frequently heard them in cages, but nowhere in such
+perfection as at Washington. This bird, one of the noblest in nature,
+is an inhabitant of the southern states only, and is thus described
+by Wilson, the celebrated Ornithologist. “The plumage of the mocking
+bird would scarcely entitle him to notice, but his figure is well
+proportioned, and even handsome. The ease, elegance, and rapidity
+of his movements—the animation of his eye, and the intelligence he
+displays in listening and laying up lessons from almost every species
+of the feathered race within his hearing, are really surprising, and
+mark the superiority of his genius. He has a voice capable of almost
+every modulation, from the clear mellow notes of the wood-thrush,
+to the savage scream of the bald-eagle. In measure and accent, he
+faithfully follows his originals; in force and sweetness of expression,
+he greatly improves upon them: his admirable song rises paramount
+over every competitor. His own native notes are bold and full, and
+varied beyond all limits. In the height of his song, his ardour and
+animation appear unbounded—he sweeps round with enthusiastic ecstasy—he
+mounts or descends as his song swells or dies away; and as my friend
+Mr. Bartram, (an American naturalist), has beautifully expressed it:
+“he bounds aloft with the rapidity of an arrow, as if to recover or
+recall his very soul, expired in the last elevated strain. While thus
+exerting himself, a by-stander destitute of sight would suppose, that
+the whole feathered tribe had assembled together, each striving to
+produce his utmost effort, so perfect are his imitations. He many times
+deceives the sportsman, and sends him in search of birds that are not
+within a mile of him, but whose notes he exactly imitates. Even birds
+themselves are imposed upon by his admirable music, and are decoyed
+by the fancied calls of their mates, or are driven with precipitation
+into the depths of the forest, at the screams of what they suppose
+to be the sparrow-hawk.” He is of a size between the thrush and the
+nightingale, but shaped like the latter bird. His plumage in general
+is of a cinerous brown colour, with a broad bar of white on the wing,
+which he is very fond of displaying. I am afraid that I never heard
+them in perfection; but to judge from what I did hear, I should suppose
+that although infinitely more varied, his natural notes were neither so
+full nor so rich as those of the nightingale. But there are many who
+think differently.”
+
+One morning I was much amused by the debut of a new volunteer corps,
+calling themselves the Highlanders,—Washington being one of the
+flattest places in the States. The dress would have looked well enough
+had it been uniform, but I was told there was not plaid enough of
+the same pattern to be obtained in the city. The bonnet had a very
+theatrical appearance, and would not have been half so bad, had not
+the eye been attracted by the waistcoat and the broad lacings of the
+coat, all of which were of a very dark sky-blue. I have a great respect
+for the tartan; and I thought it might have looked decent, even when
+converted, as it was, into small-clothes, had they not been made
+extremely tight. Still, however, the costume of the nether man might
+have passed unnoticed, had not the enormous bows at the knees been
+composed of tri-coloured ribbon, and the general effect much heightened
+by the long nankeen gaiters, which covered the leg from the knee to the
+shoe.
+
+In the capitol, as all the world knows, sit the senate, the house
+of representatives, and the supreme court of the United States. And
+here I may be permitted to remark, that when writing generally on
+such a subject as the United States, every candid person will make
+allowances for the impossibility of avoiding a repetition of things
+already well known and well described. Under the apprehension that I
+shall frequently be in error on this head, I think the safest mode is
+to apologise at once, and beforehand. None, however, is necessary for
+not entering at large upon a subject so tedious and so endless, as
+that of the courts of the different states in their separate capacity
+as to the federal judiciary. I may mention, that the United States
+are divided into seven judicial circuits, and thirty-two judicial
+districts. Each state is one district, with the exceptions of New
+York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Tennessee, Louisiana, and Alabama; which
+are each of them divided into two districts. There are three courts
+belonging to the general or federal government: the district court,
+the circuit court, and the supreme court. The district court possesses
+a civil and criminal admiralty and maritime jurisdiction, and also
+takes cognizance of all cases affecting the revenue, and all crimes
+and offences committed within the district, which are punishable by
+moderate corporal punishment, or fine and imprisonment. It is held by
+a district judge (there being one in each district), sitting alone,
+four times a year: his salary varies from 1000 to 3000 dollars a year.
+An appeal lies from his decision in cases where, exclusive of costs,
+the matter in dispute exceeds the sum or value of fifty dollars, to
+the “circuit court,” possessing an original jurisdiction, civil and
+criminal. The civil jurisdiction extends to all controversies between
+citizens of different states, and between a citizen and an alien. All
+offences against the penal laws of the United States, can be tried in
+this court. It is also a court of equity. The circuit court is held
+before the district judge, sitting twice a year with the judge of
+the supreme court. An appeal lies from its decisions to the supreme
+court of the United States, where the matter in dispute exceeds 2000
+dollars. In criminal cases, a point may be reserved for the opinion
+of the judges of the supreme court, which is sent down to the circuit
+court to be proceeded upon afterwards. In six of the states, Alabama,
+Mississippi, Louisiana, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, there is no
+circuit court, because the judges of the supreme court could not find
+time to sit there twice a year; but the district courts possess the
+powers and jurisdiction of a circuit court.
+
+The supreme court of the United States, is a very high and honourable
+tribunal, composed of a chief justice, with a salary of 5000 dollars
+(1125_l._), and six associate justices, with a salary of 4500 dollars
+each, who hold a sitting once a year, at Washington, commencing on
+the second Monday in January. The court sits five hours every day for
+two months, deciding in that time usually about eighty causes, which
+are reported as those of the law courts in England used, and ought
+still to be, by an officer of the court. Its original jurisdiction
+is confined to all such cases, affecting ambassadors, consuls, and
+vice-consuls, as a court of law can exercise consistently with the law
+of nations; and it has original, but not exclusive jurisdiction of all
+suits brought by ambassadors, and other public ministers, in which a
+consul or vice-consul is a party. But its dignity rests chiefly on its
+appellate jurisdiction, which extends to all cases and appeals, and
+writs of error from the circuit courts: likewise in all cases where the
+constitution and laws of the federal government, or the construction of
+any treaty entered into by the federal government, or its validity, or
+any right or interest under a treaty, has been a subject of controversy
+in the state tribunals. Its decisions and opinions on the construction
+of the constitution, are the safeguard of the Union. But its appellate
+jurisdiction is defined, and extends to no cases but where the power is
+affirmatively given. In order to enable it to issue a mandamus, proof
+is required that it is an exercise, or necessary to an exercise, of
+its appellate jurisdiction. The supreme court has jurisdiction in all
+controversies where the United States shall be a party in controversies
+between two or more states; between a state and the citizens of another
+state; between citizens of different states; between citizens of the
+same state claiming lands under grants of different states; and between
+a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens, or
+subjects. A strict and admirable attention to justice, is observable
+in these arrangements. Every description of case which might be
+partially decided by the courts of the litigant states, is brought to
+the bar of the great national tribunal to be disposed of.
+
+During the last sittings of the supreme court, a case of great
+constitutional interest was heard before it. It was entitled “The
+Cherokee Nation, _versus_ the State of Georgia.” The Cherokee
+nation having been repeatedly harassed by the incursions and other
+unneighbourly proceedings of the inhabitants of Georgia, applied to the
+supreme court for an injunction to restrain the state, its governor,
+and other officers, from executing and enforcing the laws of Georgia
+within the Cherokee territory. The counsel for the Cherokees argued,
+that not being a state of the Union, the Cherokee nation was to be
+considered as a foreign state, and was rendered capable of suing in
+the supreme court by virtue of the clause I have mentioned above, in
+which the judicial power of the court is extended to controversies
+between a state and the citizens thereof, and foreign states’ citizens
+or subjects: but Chief Justice Marshall decided, that the relation of
+the Cherokees to the United States resembled that of guardian and ward;
+that they could not be considered either as a foreign state, or as a
+state of the Union; and that therefore they were rendered incapable
+of suing in that court. His judgment was strengthened by the wording
+of the articles of the constitution, in which Congress is empowered
+to regulate commerce with foreign nations, and the several states and
+the “Indian tribes,” who being in this manner specifically mentioned,
+could not have been considered as a foreign state or nation by the
+original framers of the constitution. Imagine the astonishment of the
+poor Cherokees upon being told, that the highest tribunal at the city
+of their Great Father could afford them no redress. The affair will, of
+course, come before congress. Chief Justice Marshall decided according
+to the letter of the constitution; but the opinion of Chancellor
+Kent, of New York, is surely deserving of the greatest attention, as
+containing an exposition apparently more agreeable to justice. He
+considers the Indian tribes “not only as states, but as foreign states,
+because they do not constitute any ingredient or essential part of our
+own body politic.” He considers the clause just referred to, may have
+contained the additional grant of power to regulate commerce with the
+“Indian tribes” out of abundant caution, and to prevent any possible
+doubt of the application to them of the power to regulate commerce
+with “foreign nations.” The last words, he apprehends, would have
+reached the Indians; but the constitution, in several other instances,
+has gone into a like specification of powers which were, by necessary
+implication, included in the more general grant. Thus, for instance,
+power is given to congress “to declare war,” and it is immediately
+subjoined “to grant letters of marque and reprisal.” They have power
+to “coin money,” and “to regulate the value thereof:” they have power
+“to raise armies,” and “to provide and maintain a navy:” and it is
+immediately subjoined “to make rules for the government” (and not
+government only, but it is added) “and regulation of the army and land
+force.”
+
+All the judges in the American courts enjoy an immunity from wigs, and
+the judges of the supreme court alone are clothed in “silk attire.”
+Their robes are black, and fashioned according to the taste of the
+wearer. I examined four or five of them which were hanging up in the
+court, and found that although perfectly judicial, they displayed
+no small attention to taste in their cut and general appearance. A
+proper degree of dignity is required and observed in the supreme
+court; business is there conducted as it ought to be in every court
+of justice; but some of the state courts are remarkably deficient in
+this respect: even in the court-house at Philadelphia, during the
+sitting of the circuit court, I have seen a gentleman, a counsellor of
+eminence, coolly seat himself on the table whilst a judgment was being
+given, and in that attitude I have heard him address some interlocutory
+observations to the court, and press them upon its attention with
+great earnestness and ability. I cannot understand why more dignity,
+both judicial and forensic, should not be observed in the courts
+of the United States. I have often been in the company of American
+lawyers, who, as individuals, were men of gentlemanly manners, and
+excellent general information, which they have ever evinced a readiness
+to impart; but I do not remember one who ever mentioned the subject
+at all, without admitting that a proper want of the respect due to
+the time and the place is frequently but too visible in the American
+courts; and yet there is no improvement.
+
+Silence, being indispensable, is well preserved; but counsel and
+attorneys may be occasionally seen with their legs dangling over the
+back of a chair, or possibly resting on the table. A corresponding
+carelessness of manner is of course exhibited by the spectators. I
+have even observed persons with their hats on in court, and upon
+inquiry have been told they were Quakers; but once or twice I remember
+having taken the liberty of doubting the information. I hope I shall
+not be supposed to mean, that no greater decorum is observed in the
+principal courts of the larger cities than in those held at places
+of minor importance; I am speaking of them generally as I found them
+when in travelling. I happened to arrive at some place where a court
+was sitting, and “just dropped in” for half an hour _en passant_; but
+still there is always a something even in the best of them which, to an
+English eye, appears undignified and indecorous; although there can be
+no doubt that their appearance is not mended by the total absence of
+wigs and gowns from all of them.
+
+The spirit of equality renders it allowable, and the impossibility
+in distant towns of making the profession answer by any other
+arrangement, renders it necessary, that a barrister and solicitor
+should frequently commence business as partners, and play into each
+other’s hands. A judge will frequently travel from town to town
+unattended, in his gig, or on horseback, with his saddle-bags before
+him, or in the stage-coach, and dine at the village table d’hôte with
+shopkeepers, pseudo majors, and advertising attorneys. Human nature
+will out. In the absence of other titles, it is the pleasure of the
+Americans that they should be dignified by the rank of General,
+Colonel, or Aide-de-camp; but more especially I found by that of Major.
+An English gentleman assured me that, being on board a steamer on the
+Ohio river, he was first introduced by a friend as plain Mr., then as
+Captain; soon after he was addressed as Major, and before the end of
+the day he was formally introduced as a General. There is usually
+a Major, or an Aide, as they call themselves, in every stage-coach
+company. The captain of a steam-boat, who was presiding at the dinner
+table, happened to ask rather loudly, “General, a little fish!” and
+was immediately answered in the affirmative by twenty-five out of the
+thirty gentlemen who were present.
+
+One would have imagined, that in the United States, where an equal
+partition of the rights of mankind is the boasted foundation of the
+government, Justice would have been treated with peculiar courtesy;
+but she is not properly honoured there. Justice is not exclusively a
+republican in principle, whatever the Americans may think. She must
+remain unaltered, whatever may be the form of government, as the value
+of the diamond is the same whether its possessor be a prince or a
+peasant. During my occasional visits to the courts of justice in the
+United States, I could not help thinking how fortunate it was that
+Justice was blind, and could not therefore be shocked by the want of
+decorum I observed there. What was my surprise on entering the supreme
+court in the capitol at Washington, to perceive her wooden figure with
+the eyes unfilleted, and grasping the scales like a groceress! With
+great deference, I would suggest that the whole of this unworthy group
+should be removed. The day may arrive, as I have said before, when the
+supreme court may be the means of saving the Union.
+
+Any suggestions recommendatory of an amendment or additional clause in
+the constitution, emanate from the judges of this exalted tribunal.
+When it is thought necessary that the constitution of any particular
+state should be altered or amended, the legislature authorizes the
+people to express their opinions as to whether they are or are not in
+favour of calling a general convention. This is usually arranged at the
+time of a general election. If there be a majority in favour of the
+convention, the legislature then calls upon the people to elect persons
+to serve as members or delegates, and it fixes the time of meeting.
+If any amendments are made by the convention, they are submitted to
+the people for their approval; and if a majority decide upon their
+adoption, they forthwith become part of the constitution.
+
+When it is considered that the supreme court has a federal jurisdiction
+extending over a union of twenty-four states, many of them as large
+or larger than England, whose humble and individual importance are
+increasing, and which are divided and subdivided by party, and by
+conflicting and annually arising interests, and which are becoming
+more and more democratic in every succeeding year, and consequently
+more and more opposed to the spirit in which the constitution was
+originally framed, some idea may be formed of the importance that is
+attached to the decisions of this court, whose authorities, from first
+to last, are intended as a safeguard to the Union. The independence
+of this court, and, in fact, of all the federal judiciary, may be
+termed the sheet anchor of the United States. Its power constitutes
+their chief hope; the abuse of it is the only medium of tyranny, and
+is therefore the principal source of apprehension. The judges of all
+the federal courts hold their offices during good behaviour, and are
+removable only by impeachment. It would reasonably be supposed that the
+individual states would follow the example of the general government in
+the appointment of their judges; but this is not the case. In seven of
+the states they are elected for a term of years only; in Rhode Island
+they are elected annually; in five of the states they are obliged to go
+out of office at sixty, sixty-five, or seventy years of age. This law
+in the enlightened state of New York has deprived it of the valuable
+services of Chancellor Kent, the author of the admirable Commentaries
+on the laws of America. There are many democrats who actually wish that
+the judges of the supreme court should be elected for a term of years
+only. This custom is notoriously productive of sufficient hardships in
+some of the more remote states, where, on account of the smallness of
+the salary, amounting to not more than two or three hundred pounds, the
+bench is sometimes filled by young and inexperienced men, who are the
+children of party, and whose decisions must be occasionally affected by
+the hope of re-election.
+
+Entailed estates are but little known in the United States: in South
+Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana, not at all. In many of the states
+they are nothing in effect but an estate in fee; the limitation in
+tail being of no value, except it be in special tail. But in all cases
+estates tail may be barred by a simple deed of bargain and sale, and
+which is, in fact, the almost universal assurance; lease and release
+being but little known. In other respects the doctrine of the statutes
+of uses is in full operation, excepting in the state of New York, where
+it has been discontinued since the new code passed in 1829.
+
+The proceedings of the courts of equity are for the most part similar
+to those practised in England. Many of the states have chancellors,
+whose offices are held like those of the other judges. The state
+of New York had just been obliged to appoint a vice-chancellor, on
+account of the increase of business. The duties of the chancellor,
+as far as they go, are the same as those of the lord chancellor of
+England; but in many of the states the jurisdiction in bankruptcy or
+insolvency is separate. The terms bankruptcy and insolvency are used
+indiscriminately, although the distinction is of course generally known
+and understood among lawyers. By the articles of the constitution, the
+general government is enabled to pass uniform laws on the subject of
+bankruptcy. No general bankrupt law has, however, been passed, although
+such a measure has been often contemplated. In the United States a
+proportion of the people, large beyond that of any other country, is
+engaged more or less in traffic of some kind or other in the course of
+the year, and the difficulty of coming to any equitable decision as
+to who may or may not be considered a bankrupt, has been the reason
+why no general law on the subject has been passed by the federal
+congress. The states likewise have the power of passing bankrupt
+laws; but they would only be productive of confusion, as they would
+not be allowed to have the effect of rescinding a contract between
+citizens of different states; the supreme court having decided that
+a discharge under the bankrupt or insolvent laws of one state, could
+not affect contracts made or to be executed in another. As a matter
+of necessity, the states have insolvent laws of their own, which are
+generally recognized and respected in all of them as far as they
+conveniently can be. In some cases the person only, not the debt,
+is released by them; in others, the debt is discharged, but future
+acquisitions by gift, devise, or descent, are liable, though not the
+produce of future industry. The whole law on the subject of bail in
+the United States is much the same as that of England. A debtor to the
+United States can only be released by obtaining a release under the
+United States’ insolvent law. In order to be enabled to apply for a
+release under the insolvent laws of any particular state, a debtor must
+have resided in that state for a certain period, generally one year;
+and on the surrender of all property (if he has any), he obtains a
+discharge from prison, which is also a discharge from the debt itself,
+and as a personal discharge, is respected throughout the Union; but
+as a discharge from the debt, it often operates as such only in the
+state that grants the discharge. Between citizens of the same state it
+releases the debt as well as the person; between citizens of different
+states, or between a citizen and a foreigner, or between foreigners,
+the discharge depends on circumstances. If the suit be brought in the
+courts of any particular state, and the party has been released by the
+laws of that state, the debt is considered equally cancelled as if the
+controversy had been between citizens of the same state. If the debtor
+to the United States has applied for, and obtained the benefit of the
+United States’ insolvent law, it can only be in cases where a judgment
+has been obtained against him, and he has been taken in execution. He
+must, however, remain in prison for thirty days, and surrender all his
+property, which he must swear does not exceed thirty dollars, over and
+above his necessary wearing apparel; for if he has property beyond that
+amount, he cannot obtain the benefit of this law. By this discharge,
+the person only is released, so that property subsequently obtained
+from any source is responsible. In all other cases of discharge, under
+the insolvent laws of individual states, before noticed, the person
+or the debt are discharged (as mentioned above), but still with the
+reservation, that all property acquired by descent, gift, or devise,
+shall be subjected to execution, but not the future acquisitions of the
+debtor by other means.
+
+Fugitive debtors from other countries can be sued and imprisoned only
+as if they were citizens of America, that is, by exhibiting against
+them a bailable cause of action. They must remain in prison, if taken
+immediately on their arrival, until entitled by a residence in the
+state (usually for one year) to apply for the benefit of the insolvent
+laws. State citizenship is required only in a few of the states, the
+more general law being, that they may be discharged after a year’s
+residence in the state in which they happen to be sued, whether they
+have become citizens or not. Foreigners become citizens of the United
+States after five years’ residence. The acts of naturalization, the
+last of which was passed in 1816, require that an oath be taken before
+a state-court by a foreigner of good moral character three years before
+his admission, of his intention to become a citizen, and to renounce
+his native allegiance; and at the time of admission he must satisfy
+the court, that he has resided five or six years, at least, within the
+United States, and likewise take an oath to renounce and abjure his
+native allegiance, and to support the constitution of the United States.
+
+America is in some respects, a laboratory for the rest of the world.
+It is the fittest region for experiment. From the first of January,
+1832, imprisonment for debt has ceased in the state of New York; the
+fact is, there is so much more false capital in the United States than
+in England, that a creditor is not often one dollar the richer for
+having put his debtor into confinement. The example, if it succeed,
+will probably soon be followed in Massachusetts, where there is a
+strong party in favour of a similar experiment. Whilst I was in that
+state, a meeting was held at Boston, to consider of its propriety; but
+the united arguments of many speakers, tended to prove nothing more
+than what was most probably acknowledged beforehand, by three-fourths
+of those who heard them, and into which all that can be said on the
+subject must ultimately resolve itself, namely, that the sufferings
+of an innocent debtor are highly unjust, and much to be lamented; but
+that it would be very objectionable to have no means of confining one
+whose conduct had been fraudulent. By the constitution of the state
+of Illinois, imprisonment for debt is disallowed, except in cases of
+fraud, or the refusal of the debtor to deliver up his property for the
+benefit of his creditors.
+
+The question as to the power of any court or officer to remove a child
+from his parents on account of their misconduct, remains unsettled;
+but if either of the parents were dead, and the survivor an unsuitable
+person to take care of the child, application would be made to the
+orphan’s court, which exists in every state. Its authority resembles
+that of the lord chancellor in cases of infants being wards of court.
+Wills, both of real and personal estate, are proved there; and all
+executors and administrators pass their accounts in this court, from
+whose decisions an appeal lies to the chancellor. All deeds are by
+law required to be registered. Wills are proved and witnessed as in
+England; and a similar law prevents a witness from taking a legacy.
+A case of fraud used in obtaining a will, the only fraud of which
+the English court of chancery does not take notice, is decided by the
+chancellor in some states; in others, it is usual to send it, as in
+England, to a jury.
+
+The whole law of mortgage is, generally speaking, much the same as in
+England.
+
+The proceedings in a chancery suit, differ only in the pleadings being
+a little more simple: a bill for instance, contains merely the stating
+and interrogating parts, and the prayer. Witnesses are examined, as in
+England, upon written interrogatories. The effect of an answer and the
+mode of using it in court, are also similar.
+
+There is no such officer as an accountant-general. Masters in chancery
+are known only in some of the states. Their duties are somewhat
+similar; and matters are referred to any one of them whom the parties
+may agree upon. In New York, I observed that “Mr. A. master in
+chancery,” was almost as frequently to be seen on the door, as the
+names of a counsellor and solicitor. In those states where there are
+no masters in chancery, the court has a “Permanent Auditor,” who
+discharges nearly all the duties assigned to the masters in England.
+
+The form of an action, the pleadings, and the method of obtaining
+evidence, are essentially the same as those used in England, generally.
+In some states the action of ejectment is unknown; in others, it
+has merely undergone some modification. Real actions, such as writs
+of right, writs of entry, are much used; the period of limitation
+has, however, been altered from that of England. The English law
+of prescription is acknowledged, with a very few necessarily
+constitutional exceptions. The period of limitation allowed in an
+action of assumpsit, also varies in different states; in some it is
+three years, in others it is six, as in England. Where the action of
+ejectment is in use, the period of limitation is in some states twenty
+years, as in England; in others, seven years is thought sufficient.
+
+Juries are generally constituted as in England, with the exception of
+special juries, which are never formed.
+
+Throughout the United States a counsellor is allowed to make a speech
+for the prisoner, and act generally in his behalf, as in a civil cause.
+
+Every state in the Union has its rules for the admission of
+counsellors, solicitors, and attorneys. They generally require that
+a student shall have studied law with some counsellor for at least
+three years. On application for an admission as an attorney, the
+court usually appoints three gentlemen of the bar to examine into the
+moral and legal qualifications of the applicant. If he be previously
+and favourably known to them, the examination is almost nominal. If
+he be unknown, or be known, but with unfavourable impressions, the
+examination is proportionably more strict. When admitted as either
+counsellor or solicitor, he can generally practise in both characters,
+the distinction being nominal, excepting in the supreme court of the
+United States, where no person can be counsellor and solicitor at
+the same time. In the country particularly, it is usual for a lawyer
+to assume the duties of attorney, conveyancer, proctor, solicitor,
+and counsellor; but after having practised some time, he usually
+confines himself to the practice of a counsellor only. A barrister
+and solicitor are frequently partners: as I have before remarked,
+it would be impossible for any practitioner to obtain a livelihood,
+excepting in the larger towns, without exercising his abilities in
+both capacities. For the “materiel” of a great part of the foregoing
+remarks I am indebted to the kind and able assistance of a gentleman of
+the Baltimore bar, and I have endeavoured that their accuracy should
+not suffer under my pen.
+
+It would be tedious to enter into any detail of the different state
+constitutions. It is sufficient to remark, that their affairs
+are usually administered by a governor, a senate, and a house of
+representatives. The executive authority is vested in the governor,
+who has in some states the benefit of a council. In some states he
+is elected for a period of four years, but more usually for two.
+The legislature consists of a senate, and house of representatives:
+both, or the latter, are usually elected annually; but sometimes for
+a longer period, with modifications. In the state of Rhode Island,
+whose government is founded on the provisions of the charter granted
+to the colony by Charles the Second in 1663, and which is the only
+state in the Union that has no written constitution; the governor,
+senate, and judges are elected annually; the members of the house of
+representatives are elected every six months, or semi-annually, as they
+term it. In general, no other qualifications are required of voters but
+those of colour, age, sex, and residence. In nearly all the states the
+right of suffrage is enjoyed by free white citizens, who have resided
+for one year in the state, and six months in the country. In some of
+the states, colour is no bar. As to age, that of twenty-one years is
+the usual requisition. Every voter must of course be a citizen of the
+United States.
+
+Without entering at large upon the hackneyed subject of universal
+suffrage, it may be sufficient to remark, that the intrinsic evils of
+the system are more or less acknowledged by a very large proportion of
+the better class of Americans, although they of course diminish in the
+same ratio with the increase of virtue and intelligence; the objection
+is not merely, that the uncultivated and the ignorant part of the
+community should be allowed the unqualified right of suffrage; but it
+lies in the corrupt influence to which it is open. Both the rich and
+the poor man have rights to be protected; but it must be unreasonable,
+that the wealthy and enlightened should be controlled by the needy.
+The object of my charity goes to the poll; and not only exercises as
+much political liberty as myself, but a great deal more; because the
+poorer classes being the more numerous, the government is, in effect,
+under their direction. If in addition to this it be considered, that
+they must frequently vote in compliance with the wishes of a superior,
+it follows, that the most corrupt, or the most successful at intrigue,
+must enjoy the greatest share of political power. A person who does
+not in such a country as America, gain some sort of qualification by
+his industry is, surely, unworthy to be trusted with the right of
+suffrage. I was informed that votes were very rarely bought with money,
+and believed it; because where the voters and the candidates are so
+numerous, the disbursements must be very large, and the difficulty of
+concealment proportionately increased. They are rather commanded by
+considerations of place; and it is very evident, that a person who
+could be influenced by interest in one way, could easily be bribed in
+another, were it not for the fear of detection. The system of treating
+is common enough. “Why, Sir!” said an old woman to a gentleman of
+South Carolina, my informant, “I guess Mr. A. is the fittest man
+of the two, but t’other whiskies the best.” The influence of petty
+demagogues is very great; there being usually two or three in every
+village. Naturalized foreigners, as a body of voters, possess great
+power in some places: in New York, where there are said to be nearly
+30,000 Irish, their influence over the elections is much complained of.
+
+The house of representatives of the United States is composed of
+members chosen every second year, by the people of the several states.
+In Virginia and Kentucky they are voted for, _vivâ voce_, and not by
+ballot, as in the other states. At present, one member is returned
+for every forty thousand persons, five slaves in the slave states
+counting as three whites. The present number is 216. As the number of
+representatives might be too large, in consequence of the increasing
+population, the constitution provides that the number should not
+exceed one for every 30,000, but that no state shall be without a
+representative. As the minimum only is there mentioned, the federal
+congress has the power of extending the number of electors necessary
+for the return of a member.
+
+The senate of the United States is composed of two members from each
+state. They are chosen by the legislature of the several states, for
+the term of six years; one-third of them being elected every two years.
+The only qualifications necessary for a senator are—that he be thirty
+years of age, in conformity with the age of the Roman senator; and that
+he have been for nine years a citizen of the United States, and an
+inhabitant of the state for which he is elected.
+
+The qualifications required of a member of the house of
+representatives are—that he be twenty-five years of age; seven years a
+citizen of the United States, and an inhabitant of the state where he
+is chosen. No property qualification is required in either case; and
+the consequence is, that the house of representatives is half filled
+with young lawyers. The only privilege it enjoys in its legislative
+character, which is not shared by the senate, is, that it has the
+exclusive right of originating all money bills.
+
+Chancellor Kent, in his Commentaries, observes, “that the great
+object of the separation of the legislature into two houses, acting
+separately, and with co-ordinate powers, is to destroy the evil
+effects of sudden and strong excitement; and of precipitate measures,
+springing from passion, caprice, prejudice, personal influence, and
+party intrigue, which have been found, by sad experience, to exercise
+a potent and dangerous sway in single assemblies.”
+
+No one can, for a moment, doubt the force of these remarks. It is
+the best arrangement that can be adopted in a republic: still it is
+but splitting one pillar into two; the interests and inducements are
+co-extensive. The senate of the United States and the British house of
+lords are, or may be, equally influenced by the love of their country,
+and both are intended for its protection; but the one is little more
+than another house of representatives, the other a most essentially
+distinct part of the government: both are bound by the ties of honour,
+and the duties of both are defined and exacted by the constitution; but
+those of the house of lords are dictated by the further necessity of
+consulting their own security, by a proper and constant interposition
+between the throne and the people. The interests of the one are the
+same as those of the house of representatives, the only additional
+power they enjoy consisting of an association with the president, for
+the purpose of making treaties, and in the appointment of government
+officers. The interests of the house of lords are identified with those
+of the house of commons, not merely with reference to property up to an
+extent usually far exceeding the amount of the qualifications necessary
+for obtaining a seat in that house; but they purchase an additional
+security to the constitution, by obliging the peers of Great Britain to
+keep a watchful eye on every attempt at encroachment upon the dignity
+of the crown, their own rank in the country, and their rights as
+“hereditary lawgivers.” In these times, when speculation is afloat, not
+as to what they will do, but as to what they dare do, how true should
+they be to themselves. Their obligations are far more weighty than the
+“legal presumption” (to use the words of Chancellor Kent, when speaking
+of the senate with reference to the houses of representatives), “that
+the senate will entertain more enlarged views of public policy, will
+feel a higher and greater sense of national character, and a greater
+regard for stability in the administration of the government.”
+
+The president of the United States must be a citizen of the United
+States, must have attained the age of twenty-one years, and have been
+fourteen years a resident in the United States. He holds his office
+for four years. He is elected at the same time as the vice-president,
+who is president of the senate, but who has no vote, unless the votes
+be equally divided. The president, vice-president, and all civil
+officers of the United States, are removed from office on impeachment
+for, and conviction of, treason, bribery, or other high crimes and
+misdemeanours. The president is commander-in-chief of the army and
+navy: he has the power by, and with the advice and consent of the
+senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators present
+concur: he can convene both houses of congress, on extraordinary
+occasions; and adjourn them in case of their disagreement as to the
+time, to any time he may think proper: he appoints ambassadors, other
+public ministers and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all
+officers of the United States whose appointments are not otherwise
+provided for by the constitution, and which shall be established by
+law, &c. &c. The president and vice-president are elected by electors
+appointed in each state equal to the whole number of senators and
+representatives to which the state may be entitled to in congress;
+but no senator, or representative, or person holding an office of
+trust or profit under the United States, shall be appointed an
+elector. The method of choosing these electors is threefold: by the
+state-legislatures; by general-ticket; and by districts. The two latter
+are more generally preferred, as the choice emanates more directly
+from the people. Four only of the states,—Delaware, South Carolina,
+Louisiana, and Tennessee, adopt the former. I think it would be tedious
+and unnecessary to give an analysis of these three methods; suffice
+it to remark, I have heard it regretted that the constitution did not
+limit the choice to one mode. Chancellor Kent says “there would be
+less opportunity for dangerous coalitions and combinations for party,
+or ambitious or selfish purposes, if the choice of electors were
+referred to the people at large; and this seems now to be the sense
+and expression of public opinion.” When the electors have made out
+the requisite lists, they are sent up to, and opened in the presence
+of the senate and house of representatives; and the president and
+vice-president are chosen in the manner prescribed by the twelfth
+article of the amendments to the constitution. In the year 1801, the
+federalist candidates for the presidency and vice-presidency were Mr.
+Adams and General Pinkney; the republican favourites were Mr. Jefferson
+and Colonel Barr. The two latter obtained a small, but equal majority
+over the former; and to decide between them was the allotted office
+of the house of representatives. Mr. Jefferson was chosen after no
+less than thirty-five trials. In the mean time the people were kept in
+suspense; the tranquillity of the Union was endangered; the possibility
+of a recurrence of similar difficulties was forcibly impressed upon
+the minds of Americans; and an alteration of the clause regulating
+the mode of election of the president and vice-president was resolved
+upon. The old clause contained these words, “The person having the
+greatest number of votes to be president, if such number be a majority
+of the whole number of electors appointed; and if there be more than
+one who have such majority, and have an equal number of votes, then
+the house of representatives shall immediately choose by ballot one
+of them for a president, &c.” The mode of election was altered; but
+it may still happen that the vote of a single member of the house
+of representatives may decide it. In President Jackson’s Message of
+December, 1830, he says, that “the necessity for an amendment is made
+so clear to his mind by the observation of its evils, and by the many
+able discussions which they have elicited on the floor of congress,
+and elsewhere, that he should be wanting in his duty were he to
+withhold another expression of his deep solicitude on the subject. A
+contingency which sometimes places it in the power of a single member
+of the house of representatives to decide an election of so high and
+solemn a character, is unjust to the people; and becomes, when it
+occurs, a source of embarrassment to the individuals thus brought into
+power, and a cause of distrust of the representative body. Liable
+as the confederacy is, from its great extent, to parties founded
+upon sectional interests, and to a corresponding multiplication of
+candidates for the presidency, the tendency of the constitutional
+reference to the house of representatives is to devolve the election
+upon that body, in almost every instance; and whatever choice may
+thus be made among the candidates thus presented to them, to swell
+the influence of particular interests to a degree inconsistent with
+the general good.” The election of the president, immediately by the
+people, without the intervention of electors, is here hinted at. There
+is a levelling spirit abroad in the United States, that sheds its
+influence over new laws and institutions: if there be a possibility of
+a tendency towards either the federal or the democratical principles,
+that tendency is sure to be democratical; and it is by no means
+improbable, that such a mode of election may, at some future day, be
+contended for and adopted. Chancellor Kent says, “that the mode of
+appointment of the president, presented one of the most difficult and
+momentous questions that could have occupied the deliberations of the
+assembly which framed the constitution; and if ever the tranquillity
+of this nation is to be disturbed, and its peace jeopardised by a
+struggle for power among themselves, it will be upon this very subject
+of the choice of a president. It is the question that is eventually
+to attest the goodness and try the strength of the constitution, &c.”
+Should the mode of election be altered, as I have just supposed it
+may be, we may bid adieu to the Union forthwith. When we consider the
+increasing population of the United States, the immense variety of
+interests, and that every free inhabitant feels, I may say, personally
+concerned,—whether he be really so or not,—in the success of his
+favourite candidate, we can, in some measure, foresee even under the
+present mode of election, how violent, how convulsing, at no very
+distant period, will be the struggle and party-feeling exhibited at
+the election of an officer, whose opinions on the construction of the
+articles of the constitution, during his short ascendancy of four
+years, will affect millions with a sentiment of attachment or disgust.
+When General Jackson came into office, he immediately thought proper
+to turn out several hundred subordinate officers, whose places were
+filled up by his own party. The number of those who lost their places
+at the commencement of any preceding presidency was extremely small,
+bearing no proportion whatever to those dismissed by the General. The
+increasing weight and importance of the affairs of the United States
+rendered it partly a matter of expediency to do so; and, in all human
+probability, future presidents will find themselves obliged to follow
+the example. I make no remark on the late petticoat confusion in the
+United States’ cabinet; like the battle of Navarino, the best that can
+be said of it is, that it was an “untoward event.”
+
+The salary of the president is 25,000 dollars (5625_l._) a year, with
+the president’s house at Washington for his residence; but his expenses
+do not equal his income. Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president, receives but
+5000 dollars (1125_l._) a year. The secretaries for state, treasury,
+war, and navy, and the postmaster-general, receive a yearly salary of
+6000 dollars (1350_l._) each, and work very hard for it, their time and
+attention being fully occupied, and often till a late hour of the night.
+
+In the Message of 1830, to which I have before referred, General
+Jackson invites the attention of congress to the propriety of promoting
+such an amendment of the constitution as will render the president
+ineligible after one term of service; and yet General Jackson is again
+a candidate, and most probably a successful candidate, for the office
+of president at the next election, on the first Wednesday in December,
+1832, preparatory to his taking office for the twelfth presidential
+term of four years, commencing on the 3d of March, 1833.
+
+The election of the next—and heaven knows how many future
+presidents!—will depend upon the known opinions of either candidate
+upon “the Cherokee case;” upon the question of the renewal of the
+charter of the United States’ Bank, to which I have before adverted;
+on Masonry; on whether there is or is not a power granted by the
+constitution to lay out the federal funds upon internal improvements
+throughout the Union; and lastly, on the still more important question
+as to the continuance or modification of the existing tariff. The
+candidates will most likely be General Jackson, the president of the
+day, Mr. Clay, Mr. Wirt, and Mr. Calhoun.
+
+The opinions of General Jackson are in favour of the removal of the
+Cherokees: he is averse to the renewal of the charter of the United
+States’ Bank: he is a Freemason, and believes that the application of
+the federal funds to internal improvements would be unconstitutional.
+His opinions on the tariff question are oracular and uncertain.
+
+Mr. Clay is opposed to the removal of the Cherokees; he is in favour
+of the renewal of the Bank charter; he is a Mason; is an advocate for
+internal improvements; and a staunch friend to the protecting, or, as
+it is called by its supporters, the American system.
+
+Mr. Wirt, a gentleman of Maryland, was the counsel for the Cherokees
+before the supreme court. He has lately been started as a candidate by
+the Anti-masons. Since the abduction and supposed murder of William
+Morgan, who, a few years since, wrote a book revealing the secrets
+of Freemasonry, the Anti-masons have become gradually more and more
+numerous. They profess a hatred of all secret societies as dangerous
+and unconstitutional; and although they will not be able to secure the
+presidency to themselves, yet it is probable they will be sufficiently
+strong to defeat the election of either of the more obnoxious
+candidates. Mr. Wirt’s opinions are supposed to coincide with those
+of Mr. Clay generally; but with respect to the internal improvement
+system, and the tariff question, he is at present uncommitted.
+
+Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president of the day, is the great champion
+of the interests of the southern states, the nullifiers, and the
+anti-tariff party; and in that character, if at all, he will be elected
+to the presidency. His opinions are in favour of the removal of the
+Cherokees, and of the existence of the United States’ Bank. On the
+subject of internal improvements his opinions are said to be changed,
+he having been originally an advocate of the system when secretary
+at war in 1819. He is a “Nullifier,” although his situation as
+vice-president has prevented him from showing himself in that character
+so uniformly as he would have done. The term “nullifier,” which, like
+the word “radical” in England, has now grown into common use, was first
+adopted by the members from South Carolina, in congress, about two
+years ago; the doctrine they profess was broached at the same time. A
+nullifier is a person who holds that the federal constitution is merely
+a compact or league between the several states; and that each state has
+a right to decide for itself concerning the infractions of that league
+by the federal government, and to nullify or declare void an act of the
+federal congress within its limits.
+
+Whatever may be urged by the party who are opposed to the opinions of
+General Jackson, with reference to the advancement of prosperity in the
+United States by his internal policy merely, his administrations of
+the affairs of his country with regard to its relations with foreign
+powers, has certainly been generally successful. He has obtained for
+her the command of a profitable trade with the British West Indian and
+North American colonies, thereby settling a question which had already
+been the subject of six negociations. The president, in his Message,
+at the second sitting of congress, on the 7th of December, 1830, says,
+that this desirable result was promoted by the liberal provision of
+congress, in allowing the ports of the United States to be open to
+British shipping before the arrangement could be carried into effect
+on the part of Great Britain, thereby requiting a similar act of
+liberality on the part of the British government in 1825.
+
+He has recovered claims upon the Brazils, Columbia, and Denmark, from
+which kingdom the payment of 650,000 dollars is secured to the citizens
+of the United States, for spoliations upon their commerce in the years
+1808, 9, 10, and 11. Similar claims upon France, for injuries during
+the war, have also been lately adjusted with that power.
+
+He has concluded a treaty of commerce with Mexico; and by another with
+Columbia, he has freed the American merchants from the discriminating
+duties which had been imposed upon them; and by another with Turkey
+he has secured a free passage for American merchantmen, without
+limitation of time, to and from the Black Sea, by which their trade
+with Turkey is placed on an equal footing with that of other nations.
+
+By a compact made between the United States and the state of Georgia,
+on the 24th of April, 1802, and long before any gold mines were thought
+of, the United States engaged to extinguish for the use of Georgia,
+“as early as the same could be peaceably obtained on reasonable terms,
+the Indian title to the county of Talassee, and to all the other lands
+within the state of Georgia.” As gold mines, within two or three years,
+have been discovered in that state, it has naturally followed, that the
+inclination of the Indians to remain, and that of the Georgians to get
+rid of them, has become far more decided than formerly. The Indians
+(Cherokees) however, claim a voice in the affair of their removal
+from the land of their fathers; and that their assertions have other
+foundations than those of an appeal to common justice and humanity, is
+proved by the fact, that from the 28th of November, 1785, the general
+government has made with them no less than fifteen different treaties,
+thereby plainly acknowledging their independence, and their capacity
+and power to treat. Within the last two or three years, however, gold,
+as I have before remarked, has been discovered on the territories
+of the Indians; and the state of Georgia has applied to the general
+government to fulfil the contract, and rid them of the Cherokees. The
+general government would be willing to come to a proper arrangement
+with the Cherokees, but they are unwilling to go. The number now left
+is about 15,000; the remainder of the tribe, since the year 1809,
+having acceded to the offer of the United States, and removed to the
+lands provided for them beyond the Mississippi. When this part of the
+tribe petitioned to be allowed to remove, the answer of the president
+(Mr. Madison) contained the words, “those who are willing to remove may
+be assured of our patronage, our aid, and our good neighbourhood.” The
+Georgians, however, happen to think that this is just the time for them
+to go, and they forcibly prevent them from digging for gold on their
+own land, saying, that every year will but increase their anxiety to
+remain; and that they have no right to dig for gold when the reversion
+of the land is in the state. These disputes yet remain unsettled.
+
+The Cherokees are far advanced in civilization; and have among them
+men of very superior abilities. They adopt in part the costume of
+Europeans; they have schools, and churches, and a printing press
+among them; and were fully competent to understand the following
+precious piece of humbug, forming part of President Jackson’s message
+to congress, in 1830. “Humanity has often wept over the fate of the
+aborigines of this country; and philanthropy has been long busily
+employed in devising means to avert it; but its progress has never
+for a moment been arrested, and one by one have many powerful tribes
+disappeared from the earth. To follow to the tomb the last of this
+race, and to tread on the graves of extinct nations, excites melancholy
+reflections. But true philanthropy reconciles the mind to these
+vicissitudes, as it does to the extinction of one generation to make
+room for another. In the monuments and fortresses of an unknown people
+spread over the extensive regions of the west, we behold the memorials
+of a once powerful race, which was exterminated, or has disappeared,
+to make room for the existing savage tribes, &c. &c. The tribes which
+occupied the countries now constituting the eastern states, were
+annihilated or have melted away to make room for the whites. The waves
+of population and civilization are rolling to the westward; and we
+now propose to acquire the countries occupied by the red men of the
+south and west, by a fair exchange, and at the expense of the United
+States, to send them to a land where their existence may be prolonged
+and perhaps made perpetual. Doubtless it will be painful to leave the
+graves of their fathers; but what do they more than our ancestors
+did, or than our children are now doing? To better their condition
+in unknown lands, our forefathers left all that was dear in earthly
+objects; our children by thousands yearly leave the land of their
+birth to seek new homes in distant regions. Does humanity weep at
+these painful separations from every thing animate and inanimate with
+which the young heart has become entwined? Far from it! It is rather a
+source of joy that our country affords scope where our young population
+may range unconstrained in body or in mind, developing the power and
+faculties of man in their highest perfection. These remove hundreds
+and almost thousands of miles at their own expense, purchase the lands
+they occupy, and support themselves at their new home from the moment
+of their arrival. Can it be cruel in this government, when, by events
+which it cannot control, the Indian is made discontented with his
+ancient home, to purchase his lands, to give him a new and extensive
+territory, to pay the expenses of his removal, and support him a year
+in his new abode? How many thousands of our own people would gladly
+embrace the opportunity of removing to the west on such conditions. If
+the offers made to the Indians were extended to them, they would be
+hailed with gratitude and joy.
+
+“And is it supposed that the wandering savage has a stronger attachment
+to his home than the settled, civilized Christian? Is it more
+afflicting to him to leave the graves of his fathers, than it is to our
+brothers and children? Rightly considered, the policy of the general
+government towards the red man, is not only liberal but generous. He
+is unwilling to submit to the laws of the states, and to mingle with
+their population. To save him from this alternative, or, perhaps, utter
+annihilation, the general government kindly offers him a new home; and
+proposes to pay the whole expense of his removal and settlement.”
+
+I will here introduce a few remarks on what is called the gold region
+in the United States, with the kind assistance of Mr. Damm, a Swedish
+gentleman resident at New York, and connected with the gold mines. I
+have selected them, with a very few alterations, from the reports on
+the subject lately published by the government. It is now about thirty
+years since gold was discovered in North Carolina; it was found in the
+sand and gravel of different water-courses, first in Cabarras county,
+soon afterwards in a county of Montgomery in that state. Until within
+a few years past, the process of washing for gold was principally
+confined to the two counties just named. The greater portion of the
+gold thus procured was found in small pieces, varying in size from one
+pennyweight down to particles of extreme minuteness; at most of the
+mines, however, it is not uncommon to find pieces of a much larger
+size; for example, at Cabarras, a single piece has been found weighing
+twenty-eight pounds avoirdupois, besides several other pieces varying
+from four to sixteen pounds. The proprietor of the same mine affirms,
+that about a hundred pounds avoirdupois have been found in pieces,
+about one pound in weight; these large pieces, however, compose but a
+small portion of the whole product of the mines.
+
+At a mine in Montgomery county, a number of pieces of about one pound
+weight have been found. One of them weighed four pounds eleven ounces,
+and another three pounds. In Anson county, during the summer of 1828,
+a piece of gold weighing ten pounds, another of four pounds weight,
+together with a number of small pieces, were taken up out of the sands
+and gravel of Richardson’s creek. These discoveries have been chiefly
+made in or near beds of streams; but in some instances deposits of
+considerable extent have been found on the sides and tops of hills.
+
+It was not, however, until about six years ago, that the gold mines,
+properly speaking, were discovered in North Carolina, that is, gold
+in regular, well-defined veins. This discovery, like that of the
+alluvial deposits, was in some measure accidental. A person, while
+washing the sand and gravel of a small rivulet for gold in Montgomery
+county, observed that he could never find it beyond a certain spot in
+ascending the stream; but at the point where the gold seemed to cease,
+he discovered a quartz vein running into the hill on one side of the
+channel, and at right angles with the course of the rivulet. Having
+frequently taken up out of the bed of the stream, pieces of quartz with
+bits of gold attached to them, he came to the conclusion that the gold
+found scattered below, must have come out of the vein of quartz; and
+he determined to pursue it into the hill. He had done so but for a few
+feet, when he struck a beautiful deposit of the metal in a matrix of
+quartz, and subsequently another in carbonate of lime. In following
+this vein about thirty or forty feet longitudinally, and at a depth of
+not more than fifteen or eighteen feet, he found a succession of what
+are technically termed nests, from which he took out more than 15,000
+dwt. of virgin gold. Soon afterwards the mine fell into other hands;
+and the working of the vein has been discontinued in consequence of the
+quantity of water which made its appearance; though it is understood
+that it will be resumed in a short time. This discovery of the metal in
+regular veins, presented the subject in a new and interesting point of
+view; and directed a search for gold among the hills and high grounds,
+and particularly for veins traversing the earth.
+
+In the course of the summer, after the developement of Barringer’s
+mine, some valuable mines were discovered in Mecklenburgh county.
+The product of these, worked in the rudest manner, without skill or
+capital, was so great as to excite general notice; and stimulated the
+land-owners in that section to search for these hidden treasures. The
+mines now began to attract the attention of the public; and several
+persons of enterprise, and some capital, repaired to the spot. Some
+of them made investments, began to erect machinery, and worked the
+veins with system and regularity. The success of the first adventurers
+in this new enterprise, and for a time the attention of every body
+who sought to engage in the mining business, was exclusively turned
+towards Mecklenburgh county. The consequence was, a constant search
+for gold was kept up in that county, and not unattended with success,
+as many very promising veins were discovered. These Mecklenburgh mines
+were the first that attracted attention; and the first that were
+examined and worked with skill and management. They were, of course,
+greatly in advance of every other part of the region, and the products
+have been greater in proportion to the labour, and capital, and skill
+that have been applied to them.
+
+In the course of the succeeding year, a very extensive and rich vein
+was discovered in Guilford county; and it was soon operated upon by
+more than one hundred hands, who flocked in from the country around,
+and received permission to dig there. The discovery of one vein in
+a district, furnishes the means of finding others. The people of
+the neighbourhood visit it, examine the appearances of the ores, and
+other signs and indications, and thus in some degree are qualified to
+make a search on their own lands or elsewhere. This was the case in
+Guilford county; the discovery of the first vein was soon followed by
+the opening of several others. The same plan will be followed in every
+district, until the gold region be explored, and the places which
+exhibit any external signs of gold be thoroughly known. About this time
+Cabarras county, which had hitherto been only considered as productive
+in its washings, was ascertained to be a vein-mining district; and
+discoveries to the same effect were made about the same period at
+Lincoln.
+
+It is less than two years and a half ago, since gold in veins was
+first discovered in Davidson county; it having previously been found
+only in and near the beds of rivulets and creeks. Within the last few
+months, veins have been opened in the adjoining county of Randolph.
+Rowan, situated between Davidson and Cabarras counties, embraces a
+considerable section of the gold region, and contains many veins whose
+external appearance is good and promising. The metal is also found in
+the streams: some few veins have also been opened in Tredell county,
+and are now in a course of developement.
+
+While progress had been thus making in opening veins, and in
+ascertaining their situations, some valuable discoveries of stream
+deposits occurred in a section of the state of North Carolina, hitherto
+not suspected to be within the range of the gold region. In Burke
+county, one of the most mountainous of the state, and one, two, or more
+feet under the surface, a layer of sand and gravel is found, varying
+from a few inches, sometimes to more than a foot, in thickness; in
+this layer the virgin gold is found, generally in small particles
+about the size of a pin’s head, and very often as large as a grain of
+corn; it is separated, and collected from the accompanying matter, by
+washing. Water is abundant; and the absence of clay and adhesive matter
+in the auriferous layer, makes the process of washing exceedingly
+easy. A number of these deposits have already been found, and some of
+them have proved to be very productive. It may be here mentioned, that
+in the adjoining county of Rutherford, gold in deposit has also been
+found; but as yet, not much labour has been expended in that quarter.
+One vein, which is very encouraging, has been worked regularly; another
+vein of good expectations has been discovered.
+
+In short the veins and places of deposit are very numerous, and
+scattered over the whole country, with a few exceptions; and the gold
+which is produced finds a market so readily, that it is difficult to
+give a very correct estimate of the product of mines of the Carolinas,
+Virginia, and Georgia; but it was said to amount to 500,000 dollars in
+1830, from North Carolina alone. During that year, nearly the whole
+gold coinage of the United States’ mint, was from native gold. The
+coinage was 643,105 dollars in gold coin: of this, 125,000 was derived
+from Mexico, South America, and the West Indies; 19,000 from Africa,
+466,000 from the gold region of the United States, and about 33,000
+from sources not ascertained. Of the gold of the United States above
+mentioned, 24,000 may be stated to have come from Virginia, 204,000
+from North Carolina, 26,000 from South Carolina, and 212,000 from
+Georgia.
+
+It may not be out of place here to remark, that hereafter the quantity
+of domestic gold that will be received at the mint, will bear a
+less proportion to the whole amount found, than has been the case
+heretofore; the reason is this: hitherto, Philadelphia may be said
+to have been nearly the only market for the article; goldsmiths and
+merchants at New York, and other cities in the Union, were unacquainted
+with it; and therefore for fear of deception, dealt but little in
+it; this occasioned the greater part of the gold to be taken to
+Philadelphia, where, if not sold to the goldsmiths or merchants, it was
+deposited in the mint; so that at all events a portion of it always
+contrived to reach that establishment. But now the case is different:
+a market for the gold is opening in most of the cities of the United
+States; goldsmiths and jewellers, having ascertained its comparative
+purity, which is said to be greater than that of the gold of Mexico or
+the Brazils, will generally become purchasers for their own use.
+
+That there will be an increase in the products of the mines every
+succeeding year, admits of very little doubt, when the gradual
+enlargement of the gold region, extending through Virginia, North
+and South Carolina, and Georgia—the number of persons turning their
+attention to the business—the mills that are now erecting in various
+places—the improvements in the mode of working and general management,
+are made the subject of consideration.
+
+The improvements in machinery have been considerable within the last
+two years: it is believed, however, that as yet they are far from being
+perfect. The defects in the present mode of extracting the gold are
+well known to those most extensively engaged in the business; and some
+of the miners, even at this time, are turning their attention towards
+the introduction of other methods, promising more economy and greater
+results. Grinding the ore in water with the vertical stone, which
+is the method practised in Chili, is now the process most generally
+used; but the liabilities of the vertical, or Chilian mill, to become
+disordered—the waste of gold and quicksilver—the irregularity of
+results from the same ores—the want of proper checks on the workmen,
+together with minor objections, will probably, in a few years more,
+cause these mills to be in a great measure discontinued, except in
+small establishments, and for certain classes of ores in the larger
+ones.
+
+The auriferous veins of North Carolina and Virginia have not yet been
+sufficiently developed. As yet not a single shaft in the whole range
+of country (except at the Charlotte Mine, near a small town of that
+name, worked under the direction of the Chevalier de Rivafinoli) has
+been carried down to the depth of a hundred feet. Seventy to eighty
+feet is the greatest depth yet attained; and thirty feet is more
+than an average on the main excavation: as far, however, as these
+experiments have gone, they furnish no reason to doubt the durability
+of the mines; for thus far, the well-defined veins not only retain
+their first size, but, in many cases, become larger, and more often
+than otherwise, improve in richness. This circumstance has given rise
+to an idea among the common workmen, that the vein grows richer about
+the time it reaches water. On the whole, when it is considered, that
+in Mexico, Saxony, and other great mining districts, veins have been
+successfully followed downwards more than 2500 feet; the probability
+that the veins in the United States will improve, is, at least, as
+great as that they will become poorer.
+
+Nor is it in the nature of things, that any considerable portion of
+the whole number of veins existing there, much less all of them, have
+already been discovered.
+
+The usual way that discoveries are made, is to take some of the earth
+or gravel lying on the top of the rocks, and wash it in an iron pan.
+If any fine particles of gold are found, the vein is known to be
+auriferous, and its degree of richness and value is judged of by a
+variety of circumstances. This fine gold without doubt comes out of the
+vein, the top of which had been disintegrated, and fallen to pieces.
+There are many bold veins in every district, the tops of which show no
+gold, whilst other indicating substances are abundant. The probability
+is, that some of them at a greater depth may prove highly auriferous.
+
+Reviewing all that has been said on the subject, it will be seen that
+the whole business is yet in its infancy; and the only cause for wonder
+is, that so much has been done in so short a time. Ignorance and
+prejudice were to be overcome, and ridicule was liberally bestowed on
+the few who engaged in the business.
+
+If the work proceed as rapidly for some years to come, as it has
+for the three years past, the changes in the appearance of things
+will become very striking. There are some persons of intelligence,
+mostly however at a distance, who seem to apprehend that the mines
+of the United States will produce consequences similar to those that
+followed to Spain and her colonies from the discovery of the mines of
+South America and Mexico. Without stopping to inquire how far these
+consequences were occasioned by the mines of the New World, it may be
+remarked with truth, that no sort of analogy is to be found in the
+condition and circumstances of the two countries; and that neither the
+statesman nor the philosopher need anticipate that the results will be
+similar.
+
+That great effects will be produced is beyond question: and these will
+show themselves in the increasing prosperity of the country. Among the
+advantages that will follow from the developement of the mines, is
+the encouragement they give to agriculture, in the withdrawal of some
+of its surplus labour, and giving it new employment. They will create
+home markets for the surplus products of the farmer; and this will
+encourage him to improve his farm, and increase the productiveness of
+his lands. As yet, this influence has not been much felt; but a close
+observer may see that the improvement has commenced, though it will not
+be generally perceptible until the division of labour more fully takes
+place between the farmer and the miner. Mining and farming are two very
+different pursuits; and farmers will soon see that it is prudent for
+them to stick to the plough, and sell or let the auriferous veins to
+the miner.
+
+An important change will also take place (at a very distant period)
+in the staples of the gold country; cotton will be less and less
+cultivated in the mining districts; while the bread stuff, farinaceous,
+succulent vegetables—and stock, will claim the chief attention. This
+change in the staples of the agriculturist, will in itself produce
+important results. The opening of the mines, and the prospect of
+profitable employment, will in some degree check that spirit of
+emigration which has been carrying off so many enterprising and useful
+citizens, and will bring into the country men of wealth intelligence,
+business habits, and general enterprise.
+
+The opening of the mines has been attended with one primary and
+bad effect; that of creating a mania for speculation. The usually
+attendant failures and mishaps will co-operate with other causes, to
+throw the mines into the hands of a distinct class of men, who, having
+a knowledge of the business, and having capital at command, will
+eventually conduct all the mining operations in the country.
+
+Whether the effects be good or bad, their influence will not be
+confined to North Carolina. It will be felt in Virginia, South
+Carolina, and Georgia,—the people in the upper parts of these states
+having far more interest in the mines than is generally supposed.
+
+When the cheapness of obtaining the timber necessary for machinery,
+the certainty of labour, and the security of property under such a
+government as that of the United States, are deeply considered; these
+mines might be far more worth the attention of an English company
+than many a scheme in which English capital is already embarked.
+Applications to government for charters will most probably be more
+numerous in every succeeding year. The capital required to form a
+company would not, I was informed, exceed 40,000_l_. or 50,000_l_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No one can visit the United States without hearing of President
+Jackson’s celebrated “veto” on internal improvements, and every
+disinterested individual would, I humbly think, be ready to admit
+that the sentiments it contains are just and valuable, because they
+display a solid attachment to the letter of the constitution. By the
+articles of the constitution, the powers of the federal government,
+with reference to its expenditure of the national funds upon internal
+improvements in the Union, are confined to the establishment of
+post-offices and post-roads. On the 27th May, 1830, in the firm
+persuasion that the words ‘post-roads’ could apply only to those which
+might prove of general benefit to the citizens of the Union, and not
+to those which conferred an advantage only upon the inhabitants of any
+particular state, a bill entitled “An Act authorising a subscription
+of stock in the Maysville, Washington, Paris, and Lexington turnpike
+road Company,” was returned by the President to the house of
+representatives, without having received his signature. In the veto
+by which it was accompanied, he shows that “grants for internal
+improvements from the national treasury, have been made professedly
+under the control of the general principle, that the works which might
+be thus aided should be of a general, not local—national, not state
+character; and that a disregard of this distinction would of necessity
+lead to the subversion of the federal system. The road in question had
+no regard to any general system of improvements, and was exclusively
+without the limits of the state; starting at a point on the Ohio
+river, and running out sixty miles to an interior town, and even as
+far as that state was concerned, of partial, not general advantage.”
+In another part of the veto he adds, “that if it be the desire of the
+people, that the agency of the federal government should be confined
+to the appropriation of money in aid of such undertakings in virtue
+of state authority; then the occasion, the manner, and the extent
+of the appropriations, should be made the subject of constitutional
+regulation.” In about three years, the national debt of the United
+States will be paid off, and the government will find itself in
+possession of a surplus revenue of ten or twelve millions of dollars.
+To divide it amongst the states, will be unconstitutional, because
+it will render the states too dependent on the favour of the federal
+government; and as it is collected chiefly by means of the tariff, it
+cannot cease to exist so long as the tariff remains in force.
+
+Without a limited and defining authority, arising from a constitutional
+adjustment of this power of distribution upon equitable principles, it
+is beyond a doubt that neither Mr. Clay, nor any other person who may
+be president, could give any thing like universal satisfaction amid the
+“scramble for appropriations,”—as the veto has it,—which could not but
+ensue upon the conflicting and uncontrollable variety of interest that
+is annually increasing in the American community.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The progress of reform in England, and in Europe generally, is watched
+with the most intense interest by the Americans. A deep feeling of
+regard and sympathy for the mother country, as they term it, is still
+general, and I think increasing; and though most of the Americans
+believe their own country is the first in the world, they are still
+reasonable enough to assign to Great Britain the second place in the
+scale of nations. Those airs which it must be admitted so frequently
+render an Englishman ridiculous, when travelling on the old continent,
+would be entirely thrown away in the United States. All pretentions
+to importance are disregarded, even without being canvassed, as
+they might be in Europe; but so long as an Englishman behaves with
+propriety, the Americans will entertain more respect for his name and
+character, than they care to avow openly. They wish us well through
+our troubles, and watch with sincere pity what they consider to be the
+approaching downfal of our constitution: but at the same time their
+national vanity receives something very like gratification from the
+belief, that we shall be forced to adopt a form of government similar
+to their own. That the American form of government is admirably adapted
+to a new country, that that country has astonishing resources, and
+that the Americans lose no time in making the most of them, (I speak
+of America as a country, not of the Union, for America must thrive
+come what will to the government) that it has thriven under its
+institutions, and is at present enjoying an exemption from many evils
+incidental to older countries, it would be an absurdity to deny. But
+the natural causes of prosperity which the Americans so pre-eminently
+enjoy, must not be mistaken, as they most fondly and frequently are,
+for the positive effects, and little more than the positive effects, of
+a good government, however good and well adapted that government may
+be. The American constitution has never been tried. That it was nearly
+a bankrupt at the close of the last war, was a trial of the resources
+of the country, not of its institutions. Forty years is no time to
+test the strength of a government like that of the United States,
+when civilization is extended over so small a proportion of them. The
+good is perceived at present; the evils are latent, and comparatively
+little felt. But there are among the institutions of the Union, the
+seeds of discord and confusion, whose growth is only stifled by the
+bustle of commercial pursuits, and that panacea for every political
+disease, a fine country abounding in resources, and of small population
+in comparison to its extent. It is possible that the mischief will not
+be felt, so long as there is no real motive for disaffection; so long
+in fact as the people are not in want, which may not be the case while
+ground yet remains to be cultivated.
+
+In England and America universal suffrage would be alike only in name.
+In America it is true, that almost every one can vote; but then it
+is equally true, that excepting in the larger cities in which may
+be always found, even in America, a certain proportion of persons
+without any ostensible means of getting a livelihood, every one has
+at least a prospective certainty of the acquisition of property. The
+poor, comparatively speaking, are so few, that universal suffrage is,
+at present, but a mere hydra in embryo. Were the present course of
+improvement to proceed without interruption, from what the political
+economists call the disturbing causes,—were luxury to be kept at a
+distance, and a forced equality and contentment to be preserved by a
+strong and universal exertion of the democratic principle,—it would be
+demonstrable, that the American constitution would last for centuries;
+or in other words, till the country became so thickly peopled as to
+be subject to the evils resulting to England, and the older dynasties
+of Europe. If a democracy be essentially the best form of government,
+it would follow that a surplus population, that unhappy proof of its
+excellence, would but be called the sooner into existence. Then will
+come the real moment of trial, whether a democracy can exist under
+the pressure of want—whether those that have any thing to lose, would
+not be at the mercy of those that have not—whether an equality of
+condition would not be considered as conferring a title to a community
+of goods—whether, when such a state of things is apprehended, a
+standing armed force, be it called by what name it may, would not be
+necessary, not to repress foreign invasion, but to put down domestic
+commotions—whether taxes must not be levied for its support—and whether
+those taxes would not be found exceedingly troublesome. In an article
+in the American Quarterly Review, (July 1831), evidently written in
+a wantonness of spirit that savours of ambition, or disappointment,
+or of both, and in which we are kindly told the easiest road to ruin,
+it is remarked that “our forefathers were habituated to the European
+system, but they built up the republican colonies with infinite ease.”
+But may it not be here remarked, that as it is the boast, and justly
+the boast, of the Americans, and of the New Englanders in particular,
+that the tone of liberty which pervades their institutions is derived
+through the blood of the Puritans, who did build up the colonies with
+infinite ease, and whose descendants are still living; so it must not
+be forgotten that the Hampdens, the Hazelrigs, the Cromwells, and
+others, who were prevented from embarking for America by the order of
+their obstinate and ill-fated monarch, were men of the same opinions
+as the “forefathers” mentioned above; that they did remain behind—that
+they did fight against the monarchy of England—that they did obtain
+the victory—that they did enjoy the ascendancy to their hearts’
+content—and that they did establish a commonwealth in England, not to
+flourish for ever as an example to the world, but to be overthrown by
+a military force, which brought back the son of the last king amid the
+acclamations of every rank of society.
+
+Supposing the blood to be shed, and the horrors to be passed through,
+that must be shed and passed through before the experiment of a
+commonwealth could be again tried in England, is it possible that it
+could exist, situated as Great Britain is with reference to the other
+powers of Europe, without an unemployed standing army? and then again,
+is it possible that it could exist with one? Where in the annals of
+the world can the compatibility of the one and the other be pointed
+to? England is but paying the penalty necessarily consequent on her
+career of prosperity. Her constitution can no more be blamed for the
+existence of a standing army, than for a superabundant population, or
+the enormous size of London.
+
+By what then is it probable that the career of the Union will be
+disturbed? Are not wealth and luxury to have their due weight? It is to
+the credit of the Americans, that individual wealth has never yet been
+employed for any unconstitutional purpose; but it is nevertheless true,
+that an aristocracy is most undeniably springing up in every city of
+the Union. In the course of time many large fortunes will be amassed,
+and opulent families will be distributed throughout the country. It
+will be but in the spirit of human nature, that a person in possession
+of what in common American would be termed “an elegant location,”
+should wish to have upon it a better house than his neighbours, and
+that another should wish to have a still better; and is it to be
+believed that the head of a rich and ambitious family will be for
+ever, as now, restrained by the voice of public opinion from doing his
+utmost to prevent a fine place from going out of his family? Can the
+inclination remain in thraldom, and the man be said to enjoy liberty?
+Will not one example be followed as a precedent by five hundred others?
+and will not an hereditary aristocracy be produced in this manner?
+
+The system of entails in England is considered by the Americans as
+highly pernicious; but their idea of its extent is far beyond the
+truth. On this head I have heard great ignorance displayed by them.
+Some think that an entailed estate cannot be destroyed at all; but
+that an entailed estate cannot, in any case, be destroyed without the
+consent of the eldest son, is the more common error; one which is
+prevalent with the uninitiated even in England, and is, of course,
+still more so among the Americans, who are but little aware that an
+estate cannot, in any case, be rendered unalienable for more than one
+generation; or, technically speaking, for more than a life or lives in
+being, and twenty-one years afterwards. This rule has been a favourite
+with English lawyers, because, on the one hand, it prevents landed
+property from being unavailable for commercial purposes for a longer
+period than one generation; and, on the other, it makes reasonable
+allowance for the English policy of keeping up the families of our
+nobility and gentry. From whence then does the vulgar error principally
+arise? From this circumstance: under the usual form of settlement, the
+father has the present enjoyment of the estate, and the son has the
+inheritance in tail in expectancy; and in this case the father and
+son, as soon as the latter is of age, may do what they please with the
+estate; and it is a very common arrangement for them to agree to make
+a fresh settlement, which ties up the estate for another generation.
+But this is only an exercise of their absolute power of disposal,
+which they might, if they pleased, exercise by selling the estate, or
+otherwise getting rid of it. If no fresh settlement has been made, and
+the son outlives the father, he alone may do what he pleases with the
+estate, without asking the consent of his eldest son or of any other
+person. The Americans are little aware that there is not a nobleman’s
+estate in the country, with the exception of Blenheim, Strathfieldsay,
+and perhaps half a dozen others, where the reversion is in the crown
+under some very old grant, which could not be absolutely disposed of,
+_once, at least_, in every generation. That there is a power of making
+unalienable entails in Scotland, (with irritant and resolutive clauses,
+as the Scotch lawyers have it), where the person making them is not
+indebted at the time, is a truth which I do not conceive could have
+given rise to the error respecting those in England.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The proceedings at the next session of congress will be of the utmost
+importance, and before this work be out of the press, the tariff
+question will probably have given rise to as much angry discussion as
+has ever been heard within the walls of the capitol.
+
+The tariff, that is to say, the principle of effectual protection to
+domestic industry, is supported by about two-thirds of the American
+people. Manufactures sprung up during the late war, and millions of
+dollars have since been invested in them on the faith of the tariff.
+After the conclusion of hostilities, the war duties were repealed
+generally; but some of them were continued for the protection of
+domestic industry. This was effected in 1816, and by the influence
+of the southern votes; and, strange as it may appear, was especially
+supported by the members of South Carolina; whilst the northern members
+were not generally partial to the measure. The southern states at
+that period, were averse to the expense of a naval establishment:
+they disliked foreign commerce, because it tended to embroil the
+country in disputes with the European powers, and they were therefore
+friendly to a moderate tariff. In 1824, additional protection was
+given to manufactures. It was opposed by New England and the south,
+and supported by the middle and western states. In 1828, still further
+protection was given, notwithstanding a violent opposition from the
+southern states, who now felt the error they had been guilty of.
+
+The tariff question, then, is simply this. The northern states are
+manufacturers; the southern states are cotton growers. The southern
+states have never objected to such duties on imported foreign
+manufactures, as would be sufficient for the purposes of a revenue
+equal to the government expenditure; but beyond what is necessary for
+the attainment of that object, they are entirely averse to the tariff,
+because Great Britain does not buy so much of their cotton as she would
+if her manufactured goods were not excluded from the markets of the
+United States, by means of the protecting duties. The inhabitants of
+South Carolina are most violently opposed to the tariff. One-third of
+them would, if they could, secede from the Union immediately.
+
+In the year 1823, the crop of cotton amounted to 420,000 bales. In
+the year 1831, the crop has been ascertained to be 1,070,000 bales,
+of which, 165,000 are consumed in the home manufactories, and the
+remainder is exported, chiefly to England.
+
+Certainly, if ever there was a country upon earth where the principles
+of free trade could be allowed an existence, that country is the states
+of North America, so long as they remain united. When we contemplate
+their unbounded resources, and their endless extent, we must admit that
+they afford scope for a species of energy altogether without present
+parallel in the old continent; and it is difficult to believe, that
+free trade should not be a part of their system, not only because it
+would correspond with the boasted freedom of their institutions, but
+on account of the certainty of benefit they would ultimately derive
+from it. But from the entirely different sources of wealth of the
+northern and southern states, there emanates a disparity of interests,
+which, with reference to the enormously increasing influence of the new
+cotton states, are, it is plain, but partially developed at present.
+The settlement of disputes arising from the differences of soil and
+climate, in themselves uncontrollable by legislative interference,
+must be a subject far more difficult to grapple with, than that which
+merely relates to internal improvements, which may be assisted by an
+alteration of the constitution. Many Americans will probably tell you
+as they have told me, that the Union is becoming stronger and stronger;
+they will assure you that there is a growing conviction, that the
+complaints of the southern states are without foundation, that their
+sufferings are chiefly imaginary, and that their citizens will,
+sooner or later, come to the same opinion; that four-fifths of all
+the articles that are taxed, either heavily or lightly, are consumed
+in the northern, western, and the tariff states, while at the same
+time a home market exists for from 150,000 to 200,000 bales of the
+best cotton of the southern states, at the best prices: that the party
+war which rages in newspapers throughout the Union, means nothing at
+all; and that, to use the quotation so well applied by Mr. Adams in
+his last 4th of July oration, delivered at Quincey, near Boston, “We
+angry lovers mean not half we say.” It is probable that some part of
+what is said by an American country newspaper on the subject of party,
+may be nonsense; but one cannot help being a little less sceptical,
+when higher authorities, and the proceedings of public meetings, are
+consulted, which, if we are to judge by the excitement they occasion,
+are not quite a farce, whatever county meetings may be in England.
+
+The report of the committee read at the anti-tariff convention, which
+took place at Philadelphia on the 5th of October, 1831, contains
+amongst others, the following strongly worded passage, speaking of
+“that feeling of resentment which is goaded into activity by a sense of
+oppression, and embittered by the recollection, that it is the hand of
+a brother that inflicts it,” it proceeds, “do you doubt its existence,
+its nature, or degree; look to the character of this assembly, and the
+circumstances under which it is convened: give your attention to the
+history of the past, and be admonished by the novel and extraordinary
+spectacle which is presented to your view—do not close your eyes
+altogether to the fact, that this assembly is without parallel in the
+annals of the government; that we are freemen, and the representatives
+of freemen, who speak to you of our violated rights; that we have come
+from different, and distant parts of the Union, to join in demanding
+their restoration; that a consciousness of strength is the offspring of
+united counsel; and that our purpose is not the less firm, because it
+is announced to you peaceably, and in the spirit of conciliation.”
+
+The reports of the different committees of investigation, appointed
+by the opposition or tariff convention, which commenced its sittings
+at New York on the 26th of October, had not appeared in print when I
+quitted America.
+
+Mr. Adams, a strong tariff man, and residing in the heart of the
+tariff, states, in his last 4th of July oration, speaking of the
+doctrine of “nullification,” which, he says, “contains within itself
+an absurdity, importing a pretended right of one state in this Union,
+by virtue of her sovereignty, to make that null and void which it
+pre-supposes to be null and void before,” proceeds, by saying, “that
+it is a principle under which the pillars of the Union are tottering
+while he is speaking.” On the other side, Mr. Calhoun, at the head
+of the anti-tariff party, and one of the cleverest men in America,
+in his “sentiments upon the subject of state rights and the tariff,”
+says, that “whatever diversity of opinion may exist in relation to the
+principle, or the effect on the productive industry of the country
+of the present, or any other tariff of protection, there are certain
+political consequences flowing from the present which none can doubt,
+and all must deplore. It would be in vain to attempt to conceal, that
+it has divided the country into two great geographical divisions,
+and arrayed them against each other, in opinion at least if not in
+interest also, on some of the most vital of political subjects—on its
+finance, its commerce, and its industry—subjects calculated above
+all others, in time of peace, to produce excitement, and in relation
+to which the tariff has placed the sections in question in deep and
+dangerous conflict. If there be any point on which the (I was going to
+say southern section, but to avoid, as far as possible, the painful
+feelings such discussions are calculated to excite, I shall say) weaker
+of the two sections is unanimous, it is that its prosperity depends in
+a great measure on free trade, light taxes, economical and, as far as
+possible, equal disbursements of the public revenue, and an unshackled
+industry; leaving them to pursue whatever may appear most advantageous
+to their interests. From the Potomac to the Mississippi there are few,
+indeed, however divided on other points, who would not, if dependent on
+their volition, and if they regarded the interest of their particular
+section only, remove from commerce and interest every shackle, reduce
+the revenue to the lowest point that the wants of the government fairly
+required, and restrict the appropriations to the most moderate scale,
+consistent with the peace, the security, and the engagements of the
+public; and who do not believe that the opposite system is calculated
+to throw on them an unequal burthen, to repress their prosperity, and
+to encroach on their enjoyment. On all these deeply important measures
+the opposite opinion prevails, if not with equal unanimity, with at
+least a greatly preponderating majority in the other and stronger
+section, so much so that no two distinct nations ever entertained
+more opposite views of policy than these two sections do on all the
+important points to which I have referred,” &c. &c. “The system,” he
+adds in a note, “if continued, must end, not only in subjecting the
+industry and property of the weaker section to the control of the
+stronger, but in proscription and political disfranchisement. It must
+finally control elections and appointments to offices, as well as acts
+of legislation, to the great increase of the feelings of animosity, and
+of the fatal tendency to a complete alienation between the sections.”
+
+The remedy proposed by Mr. Calhoun appears exceedingly reasonable.
+In three years the national debt of the United States will be paid
+off, and the government will find itself in possession of a surplus
+revenue of 10,000,000 or 12,000,000 of dollars, chiefly arising from
+the tariff duties. The applications from the different states for
+its appropriation under the internal improvement system will be
+innumerable, and it will be impossible to grant them without adding a
+stimulus to old causes of jealousy, and giving birth to new ones. To
+adopt the system of dividing the money between the different states
+is admitted, on all hands, to be unconstitutional, not only because
+no such power is given by the articles of the constitution, but
+because the exercise of it would tend to render the individual states
+too dependent on the favour of the general government. Mr. Calhoun
+recommends, that the money should be left in the pockets of the people,
+and affirms that there is but one “effectual cure—an honest reduction
+of the duties to a fair system of revenue, adapted to the just and
+constitutional wants of the government, and that nothing short of this
+will restore the country to peace, harmony, and mutual affection.”
+
+The example of good citizenship displayed by Massachusetts during
+the existence of the embargo in 1807, is now referred to as worthy
+of imitation by the southern states; a total stagnation of the trade
+of that state was the consequence of the Berlin decree, and the
+retaliatory orders in council of the British government; and in the
+opinion that the embargo was unconstitutional, the question was tried
+before the supreme court of the United States, who decided in favour
+of the authority of the general government. Massachusetts behaved
+with the best grace imaginable, conscious that there was no medium
+between submission and separation,—no alternative but acquiescence or
+disunion. Her behaviour might be imitated, but under very different
+circumstances. In the case of Massachusetts, the cause of the evil was
+understood: it was external: it could be removed; or rather would some
+day cease as a matter of course; but with South Carolina, the disease
+is internal, existing in the time of peace, increasing, and most
+likely, beyond the reach of any but a temporary remedy.
+
+The first intimation I had of the existence of the tariff was likely to
+have been a disagreeable one. When I landed at New York, I had with me
+an excellent double-barreled fowling-piece; and I was told that I must
+either pay thirty per cent. on its full value, or I could deposit it in
+safe-keeping at the custom-house till my return; and in the mean time I
+could purchase an American gun cheap; I was indebted to the liberality
+of the gentleman presiding at the head of the custom-house, who, upon
+hearing from a friend that I had not brought it to sell, but merely for
+my pleasure, politely and immediately gave me an order for it.
+
+The climate of Washington has undergone a considerable alteration
+within the memory of those who have known it for the last forty
+years. Its healthiness has by no means increased as the forest has
+disappeared; on the contrary, the reverse effect has rather been
+produced. The real nature of a climate cannot be known till it has been
+rendered fit for the habitation of man; and no land can be said to be
+in that condition, till it has been partially cleared and cultivated.
+The process in some places renders the climate warmer, and in others
+it has the effect of producing more cold; so that it does not always
+follow that clearing is productive of beneficial results. Since the
+forests of the Pyrenees have been gradually cut down and destroyed, the
+south of France is not nearly so desirable a residence for invalids as
+it was formerly. In Germany, a good effect has been produced; but not
+so at Washington. The summer is still excessively hot, (the thermometer
+ranging above ninety in the shade), and the winter very cold:
+originally these two seasons almost divided the year between them; but
+now, the weather exhibits far more of the variableness of the climate
+of England. The vicissitudes of temperature are often painful, and
+frequently and rapidly produced by the most violent and piercing gusts
+of wind from the north-west. The cold of winter, although still very
+severe, has been much mitigated of late years. In 1780, the bay of the
+Chesapeake was solid ice from its head to the mouth of the Potomac; and
+in some places, at Annapolis for instance, from five to seven inches
+thick. In 1772, the snow in the district of Washington was nearly three
+feet deep, and in some places it drifted to the depth of ten or twelve.
+The length and severity of the winters have much abated; but still
+the climate, as I was informed by a gentleman perfectly acquainted
+with the subject, has not become more healthy. In the year 1829, the
+average number of deaths for the last ten years, has been one in every
+fifty-three. The greatest mortality prevails in the month of August,
+and the cases are chiefly those of fever. It is owing to the malignity
+and greater variety of diseases, accidents, and privations, to which
+the poorer inhabitants of the more thickly peopled cities are liable,
+that the annual mortality at New York is calculated as one to fifty;
+and at Baltimore as one to forty-nine. In Charleston, South Carolina,
+it is as one to forty: the situation being more southerly, it is not so
+healthy as that of Washington.
+
+Every part of the United States is said to be more or less unhealthy
+during the summer months; but the inhabitants of the northern and
+middle states, and of the high lands and ridges, excepting in the
+vicinity of water, enjoy a much purer air than that breathed by the
+inhabitants of the southern states, and the lower districts of the
+country. An American writer remarks, that “The intermitting fever
+which is confined to particular spots, seems to originate from the
+exhalations of marshes, and borders of stagnant waters, though it is
+a curious fact and worthy the attention of physicians, that families
+who live in the neighbourhood of these places enjoy good health, while
+others who inhabit the summit of the adjacent hill, are victims to
+this annually returning malady. When marshy places become dry, fish,
+insects, and decaying vegetable substances exposed to the action of a
+burning sun, generate those gaseous miasms which, absorbed by the body,
+produce weakness, sickness, and death. Ascending by their lightness
+they are probably carried by the winds to a neighbouring eminence,
+where settling, they form a sickly and noxious atmosphere.” I have more
+than once heard it remarked, that the Americans of the present day are
+not such men as their fathers, the soldiers of the war of Independence.
+They can take as true an aim with a rifle, but cannot undergo the same
+fatigue, and are not so long lived, generally. The inhabitants of the
+more northern states of New England, are perhaps, exceptions; but in
+any given number of the inhabitants of Georgia, and the Carolinas for
+instance, there are not so many persons to be found of ninety years
+old and upwards, as among the same number of persons living in the
+country in England. I heard this from a gentleman on whose information
+I believed that I could rely: yet it is singular, that according to
+the census of 1830, the number of persons of a hundred years old and
+upwards, should be larger in the southern than in the northern states.
+The middle states could boast of a larger number of whites of a hundred
+years old and upwards, than any other. New York in a population of
+1,913,508 containing fifty-three, and Pennsylvania fifty-seven in a
+population of 1,347,672: the total number in the United States was
+2654. The largest number in any one state was in Virginia, 479, but by
+far the greatest proportion of these are blacks. Mungo Park affirms
+that the negroes in Africa are not a long-lived race. Speaking of the
+Mandingoes, the general name for the inhabitants of the country watered
+by the Gambia, he says, “They seldom attain extreme old age. At forty,
+many of them become grey haired, and covered with wrinkles, but few of
+them survive the age of fifty-five or fifty.” It is singular that they
+should attain a greater age in the United States. By the table which
+shows the number of persons of one hundred years old and upwards, it
+will be seen that the proportion of blacks of that age greatly exceeds
+that of the whites; but it may be remarked, that the ages of the
+blacks are not so well known as those of the whites; and the accuracy
+therefore of the census, as it respects the ages of this class, is less
+to be relied on. It may be remarked, that Dr. Ramsay, the historian of
+South Carolina, asserts, that those individuals who have been born and
+brought up in the northern states, and who have afterwards migrated to
+the south, are usually more robust, more capable of withstanding the
+climate, and are longer lived than the natives of the south. Certain
+it is, that the Americans in general have not the healthy look of
+the Englishman. The men are often tall, very powerful, particularly
+in Kentucky, and well proportioned; but their complexions are not
+unfrequently sallow, and climate-worn, with a countenance resembling
+that of a person just recovered from an illness. This is partly the
+consequence of the climate, partly of their mode of living and their
+love of ardent spirits, still fatally prevalent. I am speaking of
+traveller’s fare when I say, that the tavern tables are always well
+and plentifully supplied; but no viands are thought so palatable as
+those that are swimming in melted butter. A beef steak that would be
+excellent if cooked _au naturel_, is almost invariably placed at the
+head of the table, and in this manner almost invariably spoiled. At
+breakfast the bread and cakes cannot be too new, or too hot; and fresh
+supplies arrive during the meal, which is usually despatched with the
+most extraordinary rapidity. At New York I once had the tablecloth
+whisked from under my plate by the impatient servants. The natural
+consequence is, an extreme prevalence of dyspepsia in all parts of the
+United States, which is not lessened by the incredible quantity of
+soda water, sweetened with different syrups, which is consumed by the
+Americans during the hot weather. At Baltimore I have drank, I think,
+the finest soda water I ever tasted.
+
+The inns, or taverns, as they are called, which I met with were
+generally good, particularly in the towns; those in the country,
+however, were sometimes exceedingly dirty and disagreeable. I have
+almost always found the greatest disposition on the part of the
+landlord to render them as comfortable as possible, and have very
+seldom failed in my application for a room with a single bed, some
+of them containing as many as four or five. The Americans think
+nothing of this. Upon one occasion, in Kentucky, where I had secured a
+single-bedded room, the landlord who appeared to have been surprised,
+and thought I must be ill, came up to me shortly afterwards, and most
+good-naturedly told me, that my room was ready: “As you’re unwell, sir,
+I guessed you’d like to retire directly.” The expense of living at the
+best inns in the United States varies from two to three dollars a day.
+For this sum a person is provided with a bed, and four meals at stated
+hours. A coffee-room in the hotel for eating and drinking at one’s own
+time, is a luxury the Americans have not yet attained to; at least I
+do not remember to have seen one anywhere. I did not find the regular
+hours so troublesome as I expected, as the great heat rendered it
+impossible for weeks together to take any thing like severe exercise,
+excepting at a very early hour of the morning, or after six o’clock
+in the evening. I would instance Mr. Head’s table at Philadelphia, as
+the best in the United States. There was a quiet gentlemanlike style
+about it, that I never saw surpassed, or hardly equalled, by a table
+d’hôte in any country. I wish I could speak as well of the bed-rooms in
+that respect; I much prefer those at Mr. Barnum’s at Baltimore, and Mr.
+Gadsby’s at Washington. Take it altogether, the Tremont at Boston, is
+by far the best hotel in the States. Ice is to be had in the greatest
+plenty in all parts of the United States; I have even found it as a
+luxury at my toilette. On the subject of eating ices, I found that
+nobody would touch a water ice, and that in general cream ices only
+were to be met with, even at the best shops.
+
+The most fearful enemy of health is ardent spirits, which, by those
+who drink them at all, are taken at all hours, from four in the
+morning till twelve at night, and swallowed under the various and
+subdued appellations of bitters, egg-nogg, mint-julep, and many others;
+all sounding watery enough to have captivated Sangrado himself. The
+Temperance Societies are an honour to the country. There are about
+1000 of them in the United States, composed of 1,200,000 members, and
+affecting about 2,000,000 of individuals directly or indirectly. They
+have caused the suppression of 1000 distilleries, and 3000 retail
+stores. The members solemnly promise that they will not touch a drop of
+any kind of spirits: of course, the rules of the society are sometimes
+broken, particularly as they allow wine and brandy when ordered by
+the doctor. I have heard it observed by those who are unfriendly to
+these associations, that an individual who cannot abstain from spirits
+without belonging to a temperance society, will not refrain when he
+becomes a member; but there is a vast difference between the strength
+of a resolution made to oneself, and known only to oneself, and a
+promise solemnly and publicly given, where fulfilment is demanded
+by honour, the fear of shame, and the duty of example. It is always
+observed, that when a member of the society has once relapsed into his
+old habits, his course is one of recklessness and desperation. That
+the societies have done good is undeniable, by their influence on the
+wholesale trade in spirits at New York.
+
+
+END OF VOL. I.
+
+
+Manning and Smithson, Printers, London-house Yard, St. Paul’s.
+
+
+
+
+  TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+
+  Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
+  and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.
+
+  Inconsistent hyphenations have been left as is.
+
+  Page 50. “fifty cents. per annum” replaced by “fifty cents per annum”.
+  Page 58. “fashionble” replaced by “fashionable”.
+  Page 85. “cerous virginianus” replaced by “cervus virginianus”.
+  Page 113. “enojoyment” replaced by “enojoyment”.
+  Page 201. “represensatives” replaced by “representatives”.
+  Page 205. “choise” replaced by “choice”.
+  Page 208. ‘“the Cherokee case;’ replaced by ‘“the Cherokee case;”’.
+  Page 240. “40,000l,” replaced by “40,000l.”.
+  Page 252. Removed duplicated the across page boundary.
+  Page 274. “neighbonrhood” replaced by “neighbourhood”.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 ***