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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/78724-0.txt b/78724-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..02e8c41 --- /dev/null +++ b/78724-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3862 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 *** + + + + +TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + +Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. + +Small caps in the text is denoted by UPPERCASE. + +Superscript text is denoted by text preceded by a caret. +Example: C^o. + +Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book. + + + + +[Illustration: + G.T. Vigne delṭ + + NIAGARA. + + T.S. Engleheart.sculpṭ +] + + + + + SIX MONTHS + + IN + + AMERICA. + + + + + SIX MONTHS + + IN + + AMERICA. + + BY + + GODFREY T. VIGNE, ESQ. + + OF LINCOLN’S INN, BARRISTER AT LAW. + + VOL. I. + + + LONDON: + WHITTAKER, TREACHER, & CO. + AVE MARIA LANE. + + 1832. + + + + + LONDON: + Manning and Co., Printers, 4, London House Yard, + St. Pauls. + + + + +SIX MONTHS IN AMERICA. + + + READER, + +I will not inflict upon you the penalty of preface or dedication, being +fully persuaded that you would care for neither; and therefore if +you are disposed to follow me to America, I will inform you at once, +that after having seen the greater part of Europe, I went on board +the packet, George Canning, on the 24th of March, 1831, and sailed +from Liverpool for New York, with my note-book, sketch-book, gun, and +fishing rod—alone, unbewifed and unbevehicled, as a man ought to +travel, and with the determination of being, as far as an Englishman +can be, unprejudiced; and of seeing all I could of the United States in +the space of about six months. + +Having said this, I beg of you to remember that I do not profess to +tell you what may be seen in a year. I may be allowed to mention, +that the George Canning is one of the best of the twenty-six packets +that sail from Liverpool to different parts of North America. Every +possible comfort and every reasonable luxury is at the command of the +passenger; and, whether he be confined to his state-room from the +effects of sea-sickness, or indulging a most Atlantic appetite, and +quaffing champagne to the memory of Columbus, he cannot fail at the end +of his voyage to be loud in the praises of her excellent commander, +Captain Allyn. We saw an average number of young whales, but contrived +to miss the icebergs and the sea-serpent; and after an excellent +passage of twenty-three-days (the voyage from Liverpool, at this season +of the year, being scarcely ever less than thirty), we sailed through +the Narrows into the splendid bay of New York. The passage so named is +about three quarters of a mile in width, and defended by four or five +hundred pieces of cannon. The most prominent object is a diamond-shaped +fort, which appears to rise out of the water, and is called Fort La +Fayette, because it fired its first salute in honour of that General, +upon his arrival on the shores of America in 1824. The fort on the New +Jersey side, as if in opposition to its French-named antagonist, is +known by the very English name of Fort Tomkins. + +On the Long Island beach is seen New Utrecht, a small sea-bathing +place, and celebrated as the spot where the British troops, under +the command of Sir Henry Clinton, were landed without opposition, +previously to their attack of New York in 1776. Numerous vessels of +different sizes that had been detained outside by contrary winds, were +working their way through the Narrows at the same time, and presented +a most animating spectacle. They were from all parts of the world; the +sun shone full upon their white sails; the broad bright pine-streak +reddened beneath his declining rays, and added a characteristic +elegance to the appearance of the American ships, which taken as a +class, are certainly handsomer than those of any other nation. That the +trim and figure of a British merchantman are usually inferior to those +of America, is owing to the circumstance of there being no tonnage-duty +in America; and therefore, their ships are constructed for the +carriage of a given number of tons with the greatest speed; but by the +British method of rating their ships, a merchantman can be constructed +so as to carry more than her legal tonnage without paying for it; of +which John Bull very properly takes advantage by swelling out his ships +as much as possible, so long as he can avoid the liability of being +charged at a higher rate. + +We had scarcely entered the bay when the wind dropped; steam-boats +were plying in all directions, and one of them coming alongside, I +was glad to avail myself of her assistance, and arrived at New York +before sunset. Within two minutes after I had landed I found myself +in the Broadway, the principal street and promenade in the city. At +two o’clock on every fine day, all the fashion and too-gaily dressed +beauty of New York are to be seen there. It contains the finest shops, +and altogether has a very lively and city-like appearance, which, +nevertheless, suffers considerably on account of the houses being +mostly built of red brick. Its width, I should say, is about the same +as that of Oxford-street; in length it is, or rather will be when +finished, about three miles. The courts of justice hold their sittings +in the city-hall, a large and handsome building of Massachusetts white +marble and brown free-stone, which stands in the centre of what is +called the Park, a green open space on the side of the Broadway. The +prison, a gloomy-looking structure, is too conspicuous, and exceedingly +handy, being so near to it that a “ponte de ’i sospiri” might be thrown +across from one to the other with great effect. But it is not in the +contemplation of the most refined and magnificent works of art, that +the European traveller in the United States must expect to derive +his principal gratification. The public buildings in New York for +the different purposes of charity, education, and commerce, are very +numerous; but there are none that can lay claim to his particular +attention: in a few hours, with a little assistance from a cabriolet +or an omnibus, he might see all that is worth his notice in the city, +considered merely as a collection of buildings, containing 200,000 +inhabitants. It is the extraordinary energy and urgency of commerce +that will chiefly attract his attention. The wharfs on the North +river are flanked by superb steam-boats, daily and hourly employed +in the conveyance of thousands; those on the East river, by double +and triple lines of the most beautiful merchantmen; while the three +streets which run successively parallel to them might be taken for +one enormous warehouse, the pavement being nearly blocked up with +merchandise from every country, and exhibiting a rattling and somewhat +dangerous confusion of carts and cranes, that is quite beyond a +“private gentleman’s belief,” till he has seen it. Although the actual +numerical tonnage of the trade of New York is four times less than that +of Liverpool, yet the appearance of bustle and business is far more +striking at New York: the reason is, that there is so much more retail +trade carried on in the latter city than in Liverpool, or any other +city in the world. Innumerable boats descend the North river, laden +with timber, or live and dead stock, and provisions for the markets of +New York, and carry back a petty and varied cargo of wearing apparel +and other necessaries that are wanted in the interior. + +Although Philadelphia is a larger place, the balance of trade between +New York and that city is usually, if not always, in favour of New +York. Imported goods sold at Philadelphia, on account of the New York +merchants, are paid for in bills made payable at Philadelphia. The +banks at New York discount these bills, which as they become due are +satisfied on demand by payment in specie; so that there is a constant +flow of hard dollars from Philadelphia to New York. + +In order to see the city in perfection, the North river must be +crossed, and a fine view is obtained from any of the rising grounds +on the opposite bank. But to include a distant view of the city and +the bay in the same drawing, I should recommend a station on Staten +Island, or on the opposite heights about Gowanus. On this head the +British public will soon be satisfied. Before I quitted America, I was +favoured with a sight of the most exact and admirable drawings to be +used as materials for the next view at the Colosseum in the Regent’s +Park, which I understood was to be that of New York and its environs. +It is singular that, as in London, they should all have been taken from +the top of St. Paul’s church. Unless I were anxious to write either an +almanack or a guide-book, I think I need not here say more about New +York; reserving for another place any remarks that apply generally to +one city as well as another. I will merely add, that I should strongly +recommend every one to visit the Museum before he commences a tour; +and that the city contains two excellent theatres, of which that in +the Park is the more fashionable: I heard the English version of the +“Cenerentola” performed in very good style: I was delighted with the +singing of our countrywoman. Mrs. Austin, and I laughed heartily at +the drolleries of Mr. Hackett, who is an unrivalled mimic of the +eccentricities of his countrymen. An Italian opera is confidently +expected by the next season. At present the first society in New +York, which is very good, is seldom to be seen at the theatre. In my +ignorance, I was very much astonished the first evening I went there, +at seeing a multitude of persons, who would have thought it a gross +mistake not to have been taken for gentlemen, sitting occasionally in +the front and almost always in the back seats of the dress circle, +with their hats on, in the presence of ladies, who were scattered in +different parts of the same box. + +Now, New York, if not the most refined, is certainly, strictly +speaking, the most fashionable place in the Union, and it is not to be +wondered at, that foreigners who have just landed from Europe and who +very probably go to the theatre on the first evening of their arrival, +should thence imbibe strange and unjust ideas of the best American +manners. I have heard that common sense is the characteristic of the +Americans; and I think there is great truth in the remark; but I do not +like it when it is so _very_ common. These republican De Courcys are +very fond of wearing their hats: I never was at church in the United +States, without observing individuals (I do not say many), who would +evidently have been very sorry to have been thought guilty of any +impropriety, putting their hats on when the service was over, in the +very body of the church. These are no trifles when considered as part +of the national manners. But in the United States there is no standard +for manners: their political independence is oftentimes imperceptibly +identified with independence of behaviour that procures for individuals +an unfavourable opinion, of which the men and their minds are alike +unworthy. + +It was the twenty-third of April, St. George’s day, when I left New +York to commence my tour; the members of the St. George’s Society were +going to dine together, and the huge banner of the saint was waving +from one of the upper windows of the City-hotel, as I emerged from +the gloomy recesses, in enormous establishments ycleped single-bedded +rooms, and proceeded to the wharf where the New Brunswick steamers are +to be found, and where it is coolly and most intelligibly intimated to +the traveller, in very large letters, that he can have “Transportation +to Philadelphia,” at a very trifling expense. These steam-boats are +necessarily very large; being frequently destined to carry three or +even four hundred passengers: they are constructed in the best manner +for obtaining the greatest proportionate space and a free circulation +of air. They may fairly be said to be three-deckers. The working-beam +is usually placed at a great height above the upper-deck, and the whole +of the engine is so much raised that no inconvenience arises from the +heat of the boilers. When one of these steamers is seen approaching +from a distance, the confusion of green and white galleries gives +it very much the appearance of a moving summer-house. The rapidity +with which we moved across the bay procured me a constant change of +scene: the banks were dotted with small villages, but I observed but +few gentlemen’s seats. At a distance, on the right, stands the town +of Newark, a considerable place, discernible by its white steeples. +We passed Perth Amboy at the mouth of the Rariton river; the first +British settlement in New Jersey. The governor’s house, the picquet and +guard-house, can be seen from the river. The governor’s house resembles +a Gloucestershire spinning mill. I was landed at New Brunswick, where +I found conveyances awaiting the arrival of the steamer in order to +carry its passengers across the country to Bordentown. Notwithstanding +that this road is one of the principal thoroughfares between New +York and Philadelphia, yet I was fairly and quickly jolted into the +conviction that although it was probable I should travel over many that +were as bad, yet that I could not by any possibility find one that was +worse. Allowances are to be made for the roads I afterwards saw, in the +back settlements; but the condition of this one was really disgraceful. +There was a great deal of wood on every side; but it can hardly be +called forest, being what is here termed second-growth wood. A great +part of these lands had been cleared by the earlier settlers, but were +allowed to remain uncultivated, and to be overgrown whenever a soil +of greater fertility and sufficiently protected, was discovered in the +interior of the country. + +Bordentown, is a small, but neat and pretty, village on the banks of +the Delaware. On the outskirts is a large and rather irregular brick +building at the extremity of a court-yard, which is flanked by stabling +and other outhouses, with extensive gardens and pleasure grounds +behind them, laid out a l’Anglais. This is the residence of the Count +Survilliers, better known, in England at least, as Joseph Buonaparte. +I was provided with an introduction to his Excellency, and paid him +a morning visit. His reception of me was exceedingly courteous. The +instant he appeared, I was most forcibly struck with the very strong +resemblance he bore to the later portraits of Napoleon. His person, I +should say, was rather larger; the expression of the eye was the same, +though more subdued; the same hair, the same shaped head, and the same +contour of feature generally, with a darker complexion, and a good +set of teeth. I should say, the principal difference was observable +in the mouth, which seemed more inclinable to the jocose than the +sanguinary. After some conversation, which was carried on in French, +and turned chiefly on the subject of European travel, his Excellency +showed me his pictures, which are numerous and interesting. He has +several fine Murillos, and a most beautiful Madonna by Vandyke. He has +many portraits of his own family; among these is one of Napoleon in +his coronation robes, and the well-known picture of the First Consul +on horseback, crossing the Alps. I felt an emotion which I will not +attempt to describe, when, as we passed round the room, he paused +before the latter picture, and drew my attention to it, remarking +that it was the original, by David. The cabinet of statues and +mosaics is also very fine, and the collection altogether by far the +best in America. His Excellency occasionally mixes in society both at +New York and Philadelphia, and talks without reserve of his former +situation, “Quand j’etais roi d’Espagne.” “Dans mes belles affaires,” +are occasionally introduced in his conversation. By his advice I +subsequently mounted the observatory in his grounds. Thence I enjoyed +a very fine view of the country on the opposite side of the Delaware, +whose broad and rapid stream was flowing beneath me; on the left, the +river seemed to lose itself among the distant woods of Pennsylvania; on +the right, at a distance of about six miles, is Trenton, made notorious +by the daring passage of the Delaware, and the subsequent defeat and +capture, of a body of Hessians, by General Washington, on the night +of the 25th of December, 1776, during a violent storm, and when the +danger of the revolutionists was at its crisis. + +Bordentown is about twenty-six miles from Philadelphia. The next day I +proceeded to that city in a steam-boat, which stopped for passengers +at every considerable village on the well-wooded, but flat and +uninteresting, banks of the river. At length Philadelphia makes its +appearance, stretching for nearly three miles along the western side of +a bend or angle of the river. This view is certainly a fine one, but +it would be much improved by the appearance of a few more steeples or +lofty structures. From the water two or three only are visible above +this immense assemblage of red houses; and yet the city contains nine +episcopal churches, a great number of public buildings, and charitable +institutions without end. + +Great attention is paid to the education of the poorer classes: the +constitution of Pennsylvania declaring, “That the legislature shall, as +soon as convenient, provide by law for the establishment of schools, in +such manner that the poor may be educated without expense.” + +Philadelphia has been often described. The streets cross each other +at right angles: those running parallel with the river are numbered, +second, third, fourth, &c.; the others usually bear the name of some +fruit or tree. The word street is usually omitted: in describing the +way, a person would tell you that the place you were looking for was in +Walnut, below fifth; Sassafras, above second; Mulberry, between seventh +and eighth, &c. These streets run over a distance of two miles, from +the Delaware to the Schuyllkill river, which enters the Delaware about +nine miles to the south of Philadelphia. The Bank of Pennsylvania is a +small building, but elegantly designed from the Temple of the Muses, +on the Ilyssus, near Athens. + +The new Mint of the United States was unfinished, but promised to be a +chaste and beautiful building, on a larger scale, from the same model. +On the 4th of July, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was signed, +and afterwards read from the steps of the State-house, where the state +courts of justice are now held. The room in which this took place had +been fitted up for La Fayette in 1824, as the most appropriate place +for levee tenure; but when I saw it, it was occupied by workmen, who +had instructions to replace every thing as it was when it acquired its +present reputation. + +The Academy of Fine Arts much exceeded my expectations. Although the +most conspicuous pictures were those of American academicians, yet here +and there the eye was attracted by a Vandyke, a Rubens, a Guercino, +and a Salvator Rosa, or some good copies from them. There were a few +landscapes by Ruysdael, and a fine Murillo: the subject was the Roman +daughter. The productions from the English school, were portraits +of John H. Powell, Esq. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of John Kemble by +Sir M. A. Shee, and another of Dugald Stuart by Sir H. Raeburn. Any +person conversant with the pictures of this latter artist, would have +recognised this, by the usual green colouring in the back-ground. There +were five admirable portraits by Mr. Stewart, the American artist, of +the Presidents Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe. The +best full-length portrait of Washington is that in the Fauneuil Hall +at Boston; but as a half-length this is, I believe, considered the +original. They were all remarkable for their easy and unsophisticated +attitudes. Mr. Stewart has been dead about five years. Mr. Hardinge +has also very great merit as a portrait painter; but Mr. Sully has the +reputation of being the first in America. A portrait of Sir Thomas +Lawrence, by that gentleman, is a most successful imitation of the +style of the late president. He exhibited also an excellent full-length +portrait of General La Fayette; and Mr. Tuman, a scarcely inferior +artist, is at present employed in painting another, of Mr. Penn, which +will occupy a place beside the General in the Hall of Independence. I +also observed a composition-landscape, by Mr. Fisher, which had very +great merit. It was well remarked in the preface to the catalogue, +that so many of the pictures did not need indulgence, in comparison +with that which had heretofore been cheerfully, and with justice, +conceded to them. This was very true of a large proportion of them, +but some nevertheless, needed it not a little; and in fact had no +business there. It is a pity that the Americans do not take warning +by the constant outcry that for so many years has been justly raised +against the swarm of portraits that annually cluster on the walls of +Somerset-house. They might well devote more of their time and talent to +historical painting. With the exception of the “Sortie from Gibraltar,” +by Colonel Trumbull, and another very indifferent picture, there were, +I think, no historical pieces in the room appropriated to modern +events. The Americans cannot plead a want of subjects: the revolution +is not half illustrated; besides, they may depend upon it, portrait +painting is a very aristocratical thing after all, and should not be +generally encouraged, on that account. In running over the walls of a +modern exhibition-room, the eye is fatigued by its endeavours to avoid +an encounter with the features of individuals in a new character, to +which many of them never had the slightest pretensions, except upon +canvass. + +The water-works on the Schuyllkill are probably the finest in the +world: they can scarcely be praised too highly for beauty of design, +simplicity of construction, and real usefulness. A dam, sixteen hundred +feet in length, is thrown across the river, by which the stream is +backed up for several miles, and an enormous water-power thus created. +The solid rock has been excavated, in order to obtain what is termed a +race; and by means of huge double-forcing pumps, worked by four immense +wheels, the water is thrown up into an ample reservoir, fifty-six +feet above the highest ground in the city. It is calculated that each +wheel and pump could raise one million two hundred and fifty thousand +gallons in twenty-four hours, if allowed to play without intermission. +The rising ground in the neighbourhood of the water-works affords +the best and nearest general view of the city. Thence I visited the +botanical gardens of Mr. Pratt, containing a very fine orangery and +a choice collection of exotics, and delightfully situated on the +east side of the Schuyllkill, which spreads out to a great extent +immediately beneath them, with banks wooded to the water’s edge. In a +very few years this fine scene is destined to be unnatured. By this +time a rail-road is commenced, which will run from Philadelphia to +Columbia, a distance of eighty-two miles: it will there join the great +Pennsylvanian canal, which has been finished nearly all the way from +the eastern side of the Alleghany mountains. In order to pass these, a +rail-road on inclined planes, will be constructed; by which the rich +mineral productions on the western slope of the mountains, consisting +chiefly of iron and bituminous coal of the finest quality, will be +quickly forwarded to Philadelphia in any quantity. The greatest height +of the Alleghany mountains in Pennsylvania, is thirteen hundred feet. +The rail-road I have mentioned, will pass at a short distance from the +water-works; and therefore, in all probability, no very long period +will elapse before the vicinity will become a coal-yard. + +The porcelain manufactory is not far off. I was told that the material +was little inferior to that of Sevres, but I found the painting +indifferent. French China is still preferred, and superiority cannot +yet be expected in this department. + +In my way back to the city, I visited the Penitentiary of Pennsylvania. +This is the most extensive building in the United States. The front +is 670 feet in length—very handsome, and bearing a baronial and gloomy +appearance, in the style of our old English castles. Its area is a +square, with a tower at each angle of the prison wall. It is intended +that eight corridors should radiate from an observatory in the centre +of the area, but only three are in use at present. These contain the +cells, and command a free circulation of air, and a plentiful supply +of water. The only punishment adopted, is solitary confinement. +This Penitentiary is too young an establishment to afford a perfect +confidence in the opinions of those who are favourable to its system. +The reports of the inspectors are, however, extremely encouraging. +The first and present warder (Mr. Samuel R. Wood) was only appointed +in June 1829. This gentleman, who is well known as a kind of second +Howard in his way, has visited many of the principal prisons in +Europe; and now finds employment for his talents and his humanity +in, I believe, his native city. Every crime committed in the state +of Pennsylvania, on this side of the Alleghany mountains, that is +punishable by imprisonment at all for the space of one year or more, is +to be expiated by solitary confinement within this Penitentiary. That +at Pittsburg, on the Ohio, receives those whose crimes are committed +on the western side of the Alleghany. Every prisoner is allowed to +work at his trade; or if he have none, or one that he cannot follow +in his cell, he is allowed to choose one, and is instructed by one +of the overseers, who are all masters of different trades. Mr. Wood, +in his last report, gives it as his opinion, that a prisoner who +has two years or upwards to remain in prison, can, in his solitary +cell, earn sufficient to clear all his expenses from his admission +till his discharge. The Philadelphia system differs from that at +Sing-sing, in the state of New York. At Sing-sing, the prisoners are +brought out to work together, but are not allowed to speak to each +other. At Philadelphia they never work together; and from the time +of his admission, one prisoner never sees, or speaks with, another. +My English ideas were not a little startled at first, when I found +that high treason is expiable by solitary confinement for not less +than three, nor more than six years; and that the punishment for the +second offence was solitary confinement for ten years. Treason against +the state of Pennsylvania is here alluded to. By the articles of the +constitution, treason against the United States shall consist only in +levying war against them; or in adhering to their enemies, giving them +aid and comfort. No person shall be convicted of treason unless on +the testimony of two witnesses to the same overt act, or on confession +in open court. Congress shall have power to declare the punishment of +treason, but no attainder of treason shall work corruption of blood or +forfeiture, except during the life of the person attainted. Treason +against the United States is a capital offence. Murder, in the second +degree, that is, murder committed in a sudden quarrel, but without +malice prepense, is punished by solitary confinement at labour for +three, and not more than six years; for the second offence, for a +period not exceeding ten years. The punishment for burglary is solitary +confinement for not less than two, nor more than ten years; for the +second offence, for a period not exceeding fifteen years. For robbery, +or being accessory thereto before the fact, the period is for not less +than one, nor more than seven years; for the second offence, for a +period not exceeding twelve years. Mayhem, kidnapping, horsestealing, +perjury, &c. are all punished by solitary confinement for different +periods. Almost every species of forgery, or aiding, abetting, or +commanding the perpetration of a forgery, whether it be of the coin +of the state, or have reference to the sale, utterance, or delivery, +or having in possession the metallic plate used in the forging of +any note of any bank incorporated in the state of Pennsylvania; or +forging, defacing, corrupting, or embezzling any charters, gifts, +grants, bonds, bills, wills, conveyances, or contracts; or defacing, +or falsifying any enrolment, registry, or record; or forging any +entry of the acknowledgment, certificate, or endorsement, whereby the +freehold or inheritance of any person or persons may be charged; or of +counterfeiting the hand or seal of another with intent to defraud; or +the privy or great seal of the state of Pennsylvania, is punished with +solitary confinement for a period of not less than one, nor more than +seven years; and for the second offence, for a period not exceeding ten +years. It is expected that few offenders will run the risk of solitary +confinement for a second time. + +When first received, the prisoner is left alone, and it seldom happens +that he does not ask for a Bible, and work, after the lapse of a +few hours. A Bible and a few other religious books are allowed him. +In a few days the withdrawal of his employment is felt, and adopted +as a punishment, with the most obstinate and hardened. The chaplain +occasionally visits the prisoners, and on Sundays he takes a station +whence the words of prayer and exhortation can be heard by every +prisoner in his cell, as they echo along the vaulted roof of the +corridor. + +If any punishment can be said to be dignified, that of solitary +confinement has a claim to that epithet. Justice to society is nobly +done, not only in the removal of the prisoner in the first instance, +but, secondly, by enabling him to return, as it were, to the world, +a wiser and a better man. The end of solitary confinement is the +reformation of the criminal, by obliging him to think who never thought +before. If reflection can be awakened, and conscience can obtain a +hearing, its advantages will be readily acknowledged. The prisoner is +forced to commune with his own soul: the all-powerful voice of ridicule +is absent and unheard; remorse is not stifled, and penitence is not +put to flight, by the sneers of a dissolute companion: with no one to +admire, and applaud his resolution to be “game”—to submit, is the only +alternative. + +In England the system could not, generally, I think, succeed. The +effect of solitary confinement might be the same on the moral character +of the prisoner, but unless something like a permanent means of getting +a livelihood be secured to him, after his removal from the prison, the +principal and best object of the punishment would not be obtained. +This would be extremely difficult in a country of small extent, with +a superabundant population, and a supply of labour far exceeding +the demand. The regenerated offender might, perhaps, contrive to +avoid observation; but if necessity compelled him to labour for his +subsistence, it is probable that he would not find employment; and the +necessary consequence would be, that all his good resolutions would +vanish at the approach of want. + +No country is so well adapted for the experiment as the United States +of America. Enterprise is abroad in every direction, and labour is +well paid. When the period of confinement is at an end, the criminal +may wander to any corner of that vast continent,—and go where he will, +the wages of industry are always at his command. He is in little fear +of being recognised by his fellow-prisoners, because no prisoner is +allowed to see another. His former associates in crime are dispersed, +or in prison, or in the grave; and the hope that attended him in his +cell is realised, by the facility of gaining a new character, and +friends who are ignorant of his crime. It should be added to this +notice of the Penitentiary, that every cell opens into a small paved +court-yard, in which the prisoner can take exercise; and that the +system has not been found prejudicial to health of mind or body, as had +been anticipated. + +I visited the Museum at Philadelphia, which is said to be the best +in the United States. It contains a skeleton of the mammoth; a fine +collection of Indian curiosities and American animals: the most +extraordinary of these is, perhaps, a specimen of the gigantic raya +or ray, or devil-fish, measuring twelve feet in length, by fifteen in +breadth; and weighing more than 2000 lbs. In the gallery are arranged a +number of portraits, chiefly of distinguished Americans, which are said +to be admirable likenesses; but certainly not valuable as paintings. +I was much better pleased altogether with the museum belonging to the +Academy of Natural Sciences. It is much smaller than the other, but far +more scientifically arranged. + +The Dock-yard at Philadelphia contained, when I visited it, a sixty-gun +frigate, nearly finished; and the Pennsylvania, a four decker, with +a round stern, also in an unfinished state, and destined to carry +one hundred and forty-four guns. This enormous vessel is two hundred +and twenty feet in length, and fifty-eight across the main-beam. +Her timbers seemed light, in proportion to her immense size; they +certainly do not appear to be thicker than those of an ordinary British +seventy-four. The great strength of the knees, however, are said to +compensate for the apparent weakness of her other timbers. There were +no workmen employed upon her, and saltpetre was strewed over her +wherever it would lie. She is larger than the old Santissima Trinidad, +destroyed at Trafalgar; but not so large as a Turkish ship of the line, +launched, I believe, since the battle of Navarino. All the guns of the +Pennsylvania will be thirty-two-pound carronades on the spar-deck, and +long guns on the others. Her anchor weighs more than 11,000 lbs. With +such a tremendous weight of metal, it is probable that she would not be +able to stand the wear and tear of the long blockades in which many of +our ships were employed during the war. + +The timber of the live-oak, so called from its being an evergreen, is +supposed to be imperishable. This tree grows almost exclusively in the +Southern States; but is annually becoming more scarce and valuable, as +the extreme slowness of its growth cannot keep pace with the demand: +the Americans will probably find themselves obliged to plant it, before +another quarter of a century has elapsed. + +The following treatment of the different kinds of timber used in the +American navy is recommended in the report of the Secretary of the Navy +for 1829. Live-oak should be immersed for twelve months in water, then +taken up and placed under cover to protect it against sun, rain, and +high winds. Its immersion is recommended by the fact that it renders +it less liable to split. White-oak which is inferior to the British +white, or navy-oak, should be docked about eighteen months in fresh, +or two years in salt water; then taken up and sawed into such sizes +as may be required, then placed under cover for about two or three +years. Yellow pine should be docked about twelve months; then taken up, +sawed, and covered for two years. Mast timber should be immersed and +covered in mud till wanted for use. All timber ought to be cut when +the greatest portion of sap is in circulation, at some time from the +first of November to the end of February; it should then be immersed in +water, and never taken out but early in the spring: and it was given as +an opinion, that if all timber underwent this process, the ships might +last double the time they otherwise would. + +I went to both the principal theatres, but did not think that either +they or the performances were as good as at New York. I saw Mr. +Cooper, the famed American actor, in some old play, of which I forget +the name. His voice is extremely good: I remember that I thought him +dignified, but rather stiff, without however being the least awkward in +his acting. I also saw young Burke, as Doctor Pangloss. His acting I +thought admirable, and most humourous; and his violin playing is quite +extraordinary for his age. His tragedy is very little inferior to his +comedy. + + * * * * * + +The United States’ bank at Philadelphia is a beautiful building, being +a copy from the Parthenon, with such alterations as were absolutely +indispensable in order to render it fit for purposes of business. It +has no side columns; but the portico is a splendid specimen of the +Doric. The Ionic pillars in the interior, were brought from Italy. +The present United States’ bank, was incorporated by Act of Congress +on the 10th of April, 1816, and is chartered till the 3d of March, +1836. It paid a bonus to Government of 1,500,000 dollars. Its capital +is 35,000,000 dollars, divided into 350,000 shares of 100 dollars +each; 70,000 shares were subscribed by government, which therefore +became a proprietor of one fifth. After a thorough investigation of +the right of Congress to pass an act of incorporation, this bank was +first called into existence in the year 1791, when General Washington +was president; and its charter expired in the year 1811. The two +opposing parties of Federalist and Democrat had in effect began to +show themselves, though not exactly by those names, in 1787. In 1790, +Mr. Hamilton, the secretary of the treasury, made his celebrated report +on the state of the public debts contracted during the revolutionary +war. He proposed that the debts of the continental Congress and those +incurred by the States individually, should be funded by the general +government, and that the interest should be paid by taxes on articles +of luxury and on ardent spirits. This, it was thought, would give too +much power to the Federal government, in opposition to the rights +of the States separately considered; and it was on account of their +conflicting opinions respecting this federal measure, that the two +parties who supported or opposed the new constitution, first acquired +the names of Federalist and Democrat. Their first differences under +these appellations, were on the bank question, which afterwards +became, and is now to a certain extent, a test of political principle. +Its establishment had been opposed on constitutional grounds by Mr. +Jefferson and Mr. Madison; by the former in the executive cabinet, +and by the latter in congress, and both distinguished Democrats. It +was asserted that congress had no power to create corporations. The +Federalist was in favour of a liberal construction of the articles of +the constitution, and an extension of the powers thereby vested in +the federal assembly or congress of the United States, in opposition +to what are termed state rights, or powers claimed separately by the +states in their individual capacity. The federalist was said to be +friendly to Great Britain, and to be indifferent to the principles of +the French revolution. He was in favour of the Alien law, by which the +president was enabled to compel suspected foreigners to leave the +country; and of the Sedition law, which provided for the prosecution +and punishment of false and malicious accusations against the president +and members of congress. In fact, these measures were passed by +congress during the administration of John Adams, who succeeded General +Washington, and was the second and last of the federal party elected to +the office of president. The democrat regarded the principles of the +federalist as far too aristocratical for the atmosphere of America. +He was a strict interpreter of the articles of the constitution, and +kept a careful watch, lest the federal government, in its united +capacity, should usurp any powers which he considered as the rights and +privileges of individual states. Under the overwhelming influence of +the democrat principles, which have been on the increase more and more +from the first year of Mr. Jefferson’s presidency, the federalist party +have experienced a great decrease in number, and their principles have +lost much of their rigidity. In fact, the two parties may be said to be +nearly extinct, even in name; the terms Federalist and Democrat being +rarely mentioned now. + +The federalist was always the enemy of universal suffrage. He was for +imposing a substantial qualification on every voter; on the principle +that property, and not persons, should be represented. In Pennsylvania +for instance, the right of suffrage is possessed by every freeman of +the age of twenty-one years, who has resided in the state for two years +next preceding, and who within that time, has paid a state or county +tax, assessed at least six months before the election: and a poll tax +of fifty cents per annum, confers this right upon individuals who are +not in circumstances to pay any other. That corruption to a great +extent is generated by this system, is admitted on all hands; it is +obviously a matter of course that it should be so. Even in democratic +America there are to be found thousands who readily acknowledge the +real causes of their prosperity to be identified with those that have +prevented this system from figuring in its real colours; and who +freely admit that it proceeds from a comparative exemption from taxes; +an unbounded extent of country; an admirable spirit of enterprise; a +population not too large, and a consequent abundance of employment—not +from the existence of a peculiar political system. + +But to return to the subject of the United States’ bank. When Mr. +Jefferson and the democrats came into power, the renewal of the bank +charter was discussed as a party question. At this period excitement +was at its height; and the federalists made themselves so conspicuous +by their indiscriminating opposition to those measures of commercial +restriction adopted by the democrats in power, against Great Britain, +in compliance with the policy of the new French government, that they +were considered by a large proportion of the American nation, as +the apologists for the conduct of a country already regarded in the +light of a public enemy. Yet such was the general opinion of the good +that had been diffused throughout the Union by the bank, that the +question of the renewal of its charter, was only lost by the casting +vote of the president of the senate, and by one vote in the house of +representatives. In less than three years after the expiration of the +charter in 1811, the war with Great Britain having taken place in the +mean time, the finances were in a state of incredible embarrassment; +and the re-establishment of the United States’ bank recommended by Mr. +Dallas, who was then secretary to the treasury, received the sanction +of Mr. Madison; and the measure passed both branches of congress during +the ascendency of that very party which was previously opposed to it. + +In consequence of the non-renewal of the bank charter, bank credit +to the amount of 15,000,000 of dollars was withdrawn from the public +service, and a number of local banks immediately sprang up. + +Freed from the salutary control of the United States’ bank, they +commenced a system of imprudent trading, and excessive issues, which +speedily disordered the currency of the country; and notwithstanding +all her resources, and all her patriotism, in the last year of the +last war, the United States were on the eve of bankruptcy, solely for +the want of some national institution that would have assisted the +exigences of government, and supported a circulating medium of general +credit throughout the Union. The loss of the United States during +the three years when there was no bank, was estimated at not less +than 46,000,000 of dollars, sustained exclusively by want of a sound +currency and an efficient system of finance. + +The United States’ bank has established branch banks at twenty-two of +the principal commercial cities of the Union. When it was first opened +there were, as we have seen, but two parties in the country, both +acting from motives purely patriotic. The number is now increased, and +interest is not now, as it was then, left out of the question. The bank +charter does not expire till 1836; but the sentiments of the president +on the subject of its renewal, which so deeply involves the commercial +happiness of the Union, cannot but be speculated upon with peculiar +interest, even at this distance of time. + +It is said that General Jackson is unfavourable to its renewal. In +his message of 1830 he expressed an opinion, that the bank had failed +in the great end of establishing an uniform and sound currency. This +is supposed to have reference merely to the circumstance of the +bank, not in all cases redeeming the bills issued by any one of its +branches indiscriminately at all the others. But it would be an obvious +injustice to oblige the bank to any such measure: the attempt would be +quite incompatible with its existence; as it is evident, that if the +exchange were unfavourable in one State, and favourable in another, +the flow of notes from the State where it is unfavourable, would +soon suspend or contract all the operations of the bank; and the very +evil of an inequality of the currency, which the establishment was +designed to remedy, would be increased by a vain attempt to perform +impossibilities. I need not, however, pursue this subject further; +but will only add, that all reasoning and experience seem to favour a +belief in the advantages which the banking establishment has conferred +on the country. It is, besides, in possession of a considerable surplus +fund, after deducting seven per cent., which will enable it to meet +any contingences that may arise. In lieu of the United States’ bank, +an establishment to be termed a national bank, founded on the credit +of the government and its revenues, has been proposed by General +Jackson and others. Five hundred agents are employed at the present +moment in transacting the affairs of the United States’ bank; but the +enormous increase of patronage which would accrue to the government +by the establishment of the proposed National bank, would be nothing +in comparison with the power that would be vested in it, from its +having under its control the dispensation of bank accommodations to +the amount of at least 50,000,000 of dollars. When these consequences +are considered, it is difficult to conceive how such a plan could find +support among the subjects of a government professing to be thoroughly +democratical. + +The society of Philadelphia is, taken all together, the best in the +United States. The gay season is during the winter months. Balls and +concerts are then frequent and well attended: in this respect I was +unfortunate, as I was in that city in May—but I was partly recompensed +for my loss, by the promenade in Washington Square, which, although +shady enough, and prettily laid out, is not what the most fashionable +promenade in Philadelphia ought to be;—and I could not but remark, that +the display of beauty and elegance to be seen there about six o’clock +on the afternoon of a fine day, was most richly deserving of a better +place of parade. I cannot in conscience assert that, as far as it went, +I thought it equal, and yet I am scarcely willing to pronounce it +inferior, to the splendid cortège of Kensington gardens. + + * * * * * + +I had come to the conclusion that I should not be able to descend the +Mississippi to New Orleans. By the time that I should arrive there, +the extreme heats of an American summer would have been prevailing +in that very unhealthy climate, and a stranger is almost certain to +be attacked by fever and ague. The voyage down the river occupies +five or six days; the voyage up the river is not performed in less +than ten or twelve; and I was consoled by learning that the voyage is +exceedingly tedious, as the low banks offer no variety of scenery for +many days—so much so, that upon rising in the morning, a person might +almost be persuaded he had not moved from that part of the river where +he had been the previous evening. I therefore determined to make a +tour through part of Pennsylvania: I had heard much of the beauty of +the scenery, of the trout fishing, and “all that,” and accordingly +having engaged a place in the coach to Harrisburg, the capital of the +State, I started by it, at the nondescript hour of two in the morning, +and arrived at Harrisburg the same evening. The road lay through a +well-cultivated, but not particularly interesting country; at least +I did not think so, for it rained in torrents the whole morning; and +although I was inside the coach, one arm was completely wet through, +in consequence of the oilskin panels being but loosely fastened. The +great heat of summer renders it necessary that the conveyances should +be as airy as possible; the panels, which are made either of leather +or oilskin, are rolled up in dry weather; but the “gentleman in the +corner” sometimes comes off very badly on a cold or rainy day. In +addition to this, it must be remembered that the American coaches +usually carry nine inside, and do not afford too much liberty to the +legs. The three passengers who sit in the middle, lean their shoulders +against a broad leather strap, which passes across the coach; and as +this occasionally gets unhooked in passing over a forest road, their +heads are instantly thrown in contact with the stomachs of those who +are behind them. + +The most considerable place we passed was Reading, which has much the +appearance of a second-rate country town in England. Viewed from the +Sunbury road, by which I returned to it in my way back to Philadelphia, +its situation, in a fine surrounding country, appears to much greater +advantage. We passed no other place of note but Lebanon; in the +vicinity of which is to be found some of the finest arable land in +Pennsylvania. Harrisburg is delightfully situated on the Susquehanna. +It was here for the first time I saw that beautiful river; in breadth +about three quarters of a mile. Its clear and shallow stream is not +really slow, but at a little distance it appears as tranquil and +unruffled as the surface of a lake. Immediately opposite to Harrisburg +is an island, from either side of which a long wooden bridge is +thrown to the opposite bank of the river. Harrisburg is the capital +of Pennsylvania, and is a thriving, neat and pretty-looking town, +containing about four thousand inhabitants. The House of Assembly, or +Capitol, as it is always called in America, is built on an eminence. +The sittings of the senate and house of representatives of Pennsylvania +were held first at Philadelphia, then at Lancaster, and subsequently +for nearly the last twenty years at Harrisburg, which, from its central +situation, has been found much more convenient. The chamber where the +representatives hold their sittings is very large, with separate desks +for every two or three members, disposed in a semicircle, in the same +manner as in the French chamber of deputies. The chair in which the +Speaker sits was filled by the celebrated patriot John Hancock, when +he presided in the assembly, by the members of which the declaration +of independence was signed in the state-house at Philadelphia. The +senate and representatives had just finished their sittings, after +having passed only two hundred and sixty-seven Acts. I saw a list +of them. They chiefly related to internal improvements; and many of +them made honourable provision for old soldiers, or the widows and +families of old soldiers, who had served in the revolutionary war. An +experiment, which would have been deemed serious in an older country, +was on the eve of trial: an Act had been passed for levying a tax on +personal property throughout the state. The bulk of the taxes had +hitherto been paid by the land owners, and a new assessment made once +every three years. The annual tax is at the rate of one, two, or three +dollars the acre, according to the value of the land. The owner of +personal property only, however, enjoyed an immunity, of which the +present measure was intended to divest him, by making him pay a tax of +one dollar in a thousand. Every individual will be obliged to swear +to the amount of his personal property; and should he be supposed to +swear falsely, an officer will be empowered to compel the production +of any deed, bond, note, or bill, or of any writing being evidence of +a debt owing to him. However, the general opinion seemed to be, that +the graceless impost would be acquiesced in as one of fairness and +necessity. On account of the enterprise of canals, railroads, and other +improvements, the state debt of Pennsylvania is larger than that of any +other of the Union, amounting to 14,463,161 dollars,—the debt of New +York amounting to nearly 9,000,000 dollars. The individual State debts +are very likely to be increased rather than diminished, in the end; +but as no State debt has in any instance been increased except for the +purposes of internal improvements, the augmentation of the debt will +but add eventually to the prosperity and wealth of the State. Suppose +any state, New York for instance, were to borrow 4,000,000 dollars for +some public work, as a canal or rail-road, at a fixed rate of interest, +and that the capital borrowed were to be reimbursable in the year 1850. +Such a rate of tonnage would be levied on the canal or railroad as +would, after payment of the interest, leave a sinking fund available +for the redemption of the capital borrowed, and the State would be +left in possession of a large tract of country rendered productive +and valuable on account of the additional facility afforded for the +carriage of produce to market. Once only since the formation of the +constitution, and during the presidency of John Adams, has a direct +and general property-tax been imposed by the federal government in time +of peace. + +The view from the dome of the capitol at Harrisburg is very fine; +but a much better is obtained from the summit of a hill about a mile +behind the town, although, perhaps, the town itself is not seen to +such advantage. A great part of the surrounding country is very well +cultivated; corn-fields, pasture, and woodlands, are distributed over +hill and hollow; and occasionally here and there is perceived a small +farm-house, of a neater and more English appearance than any I had yet +seen. On every side the landscape is terminated as usual by a boundless +forest. The Susquehanna seems to lose itself through a gap in the Blue +Mountains; and throughout the whole of its course, which is visible for +a great distance, its banks and beautiful islands are clothed with the +richest foliage to the water’s edge. I proceeded along the north bank +of the river towards Duncan’s Island, and after a ride of eight or nine +miles, I arrived at the gap I have just mentioned. Its scenery forcibly +reminded me of the Rhine at Drachenfells. The abrupt and lofty hill +on the left is not surmounted by a “castled crag,” but it overhangs, +perhaps, a nobler river, whose banks are covered with the forest trees +of America, instead of being formally scarped for the culture of vines, +trimmed like gooseberry bushes. At a short distance from the gap, the +river is crossed by an enormous wooden bridge of eight arches, which is +very nearly half a mile in length. The bridges in America are usually +of wood, of admirable construction, neatly painted, and covered over +like many of the bridges in Switzerland. The piers are of stone of +great size, and buttressed towards the stream. This bridge is the +largest of the kind I have seen any where. + +In the garden of the inn, or tavern, as it is usually called, is an +Indian tumulus, about fifteen feet in height, hemispherical in shape, +and evidently once much higher. These tumuli are to be seen in various +parts of Pennsylvania, and in fact, in all parts of America; often two +are found at no great distance from one another. At Liverpool, in that +state, are two of them, about three quarters of a mile apart; but one +had been ploughed over by the Gothic proprietor of the soil. At first +it is not difficult to infer from this, that a great battle had taken +place in the vicinity, and that each party had adopted this place for +the burial of the dead,—that universally, and eternally distinguishing +characteristic between mankind and those of the brute creation that +make the nearest approaches to humanity. Where, however, they are found +singly, the researches of Mr. Jefferson and of others, induce us to +believe that they were heaped together upon other occasions. In one +which he opened, Mr. Jefferson conjectures that there might be as many +as a thousand skeletons; and appearances indicated that it had derived +its origin and enlargement from a custom of collecting the bones of the +dead on the spot at different times. They were deposited in layers, but +in the utmost confusion of relative position; the bones of the most +distant parts of the body being crowded together. Those of infants and +half-grown persons were found among them. These tumuli are sometimes +composed of earth, and sometimes of loose stones, like the cairn and +carnedd of Scotland and Wales. + +The conjecture, that they were either raised over the dead in battle, +or in accordance with the custom supposed by Mr. Jefferson, is the more +probable, on account of the bones being always found in quantities. +The European tumuli, of whatever age or nation, have either been +heaped up over the ashes of some distinguished person, or are found to +contain but a few coffins, of rough-hewn and loose stone. In America, +I believe, none are supposed to cover the remains of one person only, +deeply buried as in Europe, under the superincumbent mass; but in the +tumuli of America the external coating of earth will easily crumble +away when disturbed, and will frequently discover the bones at a +trifling depth beneath the surface. Arrows and other implements of +war are frequently found amongst them. The formation of these tumuli +is no where understood to be a modern custom. The Indians have a +feeling of reverence for them, and use them as land marks; but the +most aged are unable to furnish any clue to the discovery of their +antiquity. The knowledge of their own ancestors is confined to three +or four generations, and nothing certain is known of the aborigines +who formed these tumuli. Humboldt himself, in his “New Spain,” after +a learned dissertation on the subject, is obliged to admit that +“the general question of the first origin of the inhabitants of the +continent, is beyond the limits prescribed to history, and is not +perhaps even a philosophical question.” There can be no doubt that +they were a distinct race, and more civilised than the wild Indians of +the present day, whose Asiatic origin is also a subject of dispute. +Humboldt believes that the analogy between the languages of Tartary and +those of the new Continent extends to a very small number of words. +He adds, that the want of wheat, oats, barley, rye, and of all those +nutritive gramina which go under the name of cereal, seems to prove +that if Asiatic tribes passed into America, they must have descended +from pastoral people. We see in the old continent, that the cultivation +of cereal gramina, and the use of milk were introduced as far back as +we have any historical records. The inhabitants of the new continent, +cultivated no other gramina than maize. They fed on no species of milk, +though the lamas alpacas, and in the north of Mexico and Canada, two +kinds of indigenous oxen, would have afforded them milk in abundance. +These are striking contrasts between the Mongol and American race. +However, in the Transactions of the Literary and Historical Society +of Quebec, there has lately been published a “Catalogue of a few +(ninety-six) remarkable instances, which induce a belief of the Asiatic +origin of the North American Indians. By Major Mercer, R. A.” These +I recommend, as they are very interesting. Robertson says that “the +Esquimaux Indians, are the only people in America who, in their aspect +and character, bear any resemblance to the Northern Europeans.” They +differ from all the other Indian tribes in their language, disposition, +and habits of life. He thence infers the probability of their having +originally passed over from the North-west of Europe, and adds, “that +among all the other inhabitants of America, there is such a striking +similitude in the form of their bodies, and the qualities of their +minds, that notwithstanding the diversities occasioned by the influence +of climate, or unequal progress of improvement, we must pronounce +them to be descended from one source—the north east of Asia.” It may +be here added, that Cuvier, when speaking of the mouflon of the Blue +Mountains, informs us, that it is the only quadruped of any size, the +discovery of which is entirely modern, and gives it as his opinion, +that perhaps it is only a Siberian goat that has crossed the ice. + + * * * * * + +The junction of the Susquehanna and Juniata rivers, takes place at +Duncan’s Island. The latter is a much smaller river, varying from one +to two hundred yards in breadth. In some places its thickly forested +banks rise to a great height above the gloomy-looking stream, whose +dark placidity is occasionally disturbed by small rapids, or falls, +as they are termed, though they hardly deserve the name. I observed a +sunken raft, and one solitary fish-hawk (osprey). The road continues +along the side of the Juniata for several miles; it then leaves it, +and conducts the traveller to Lewistown. I observed nothing remarkable +in this place. Its situation, however, is picturesque, as it is +surrounded with abrupt hills and rising grounds of different elevation, +with plenty of forest, as usual. The distance from Lewistown to a +place called Brown’s Mills, is not more than five miles. Here I found +an excellent country inn, kept by an Irishman, and a most delicious +trouting stream, running rapidly through the woods, and emerging close +to the inn. It is wadeable in every part, and swarms with trout, some +of them weighing more than three pounds. Those killed with a fly, do +not average more than half a pound in weight; but it is no uncommon +occurrence to kill five or six dozen in two or three hours. When I was +there, and in fact during the whole time I passed in Pennsylvania, +the season was early, and the weather cold and unfavourable, so that I +killed but very few fish. A severe walk of twenty-five miles through +the forest, and across a range of hills known by the name of the +Seven Mountains, brought me to Belfont; a large and thriving town, +conspicuous from being placed on a hill in the midst of a very pretty +country. Close to Belfont are three full mountain streams, or creeks, +as they are called in America. Spring creek in particular, contains +an enormous quantity of trout, of about the same size as those at +Brown’s Mills; but the weather was still unfavourable, and it was all +in vain that I waded down the stream for nearly four miles. I took +but seven or eight moderate-sized fish. The red hackle is considered +the best general fly. The other streams are known by the names of the +Bald Eagle, and Logan’s creek. The former takes its name from a bald +eagle’s nest, that was annually built in the vicinity, or, which is +more probable, from a tribe of Indians so called, who resided there. +At the head waters of the other creek, is still seen the place of +residence of the celebrated Mingo chief, Logan,—whose eloquent message +to Lord Dunmore, is too well known to need insertion here. Many of the +aged inhabitants of Belfont still remember him. His fate resembled +that of Demosthenes and Cicero: he perished for his eloquence. An old +officer of the United States army, who, soon after the close of the +revolutionary war, was ordered to make surveys of the country watered +by the Alleghany river, informed me that Logan’s nephew, a remarkably +fine young Indian, dined with him one day in his tent, and that he +asked him what became of Logan. I killed him, was the reply. Why did +you kill him?—The nation ordered it. For what reason?—He was too great +a man to live: he talked so well, that although the whole nation had +intended to put any plan in execution, yet, if Logan did not approve +of it, he would soon gain a majority in favour of his opinions. Was +he not then generally in the right?—Often; but his influence divided +the nation too much. Why did they choose you to put him to death? If +any one else had done it, I would certainly have killed him: I, who am +his nephew, shall inherit his greatness. Will they not then kill you +also?—Yes: and when I become as great a man as Logan (laying his hand +on his breast with dignity), I shall be content to die! He added, that +he shot him near the Alleghany river. When informed of the resolution +of the council of his nation, Logan stopped his horse, drew himself up +in an attitude of great dignity, and received the fatal ball without a +murmur. + +From Belfont I proceeded on foot over the mountains to Philipsburg, +on the western slope of the Alleghany ridge. The distance was about +twenty-eight miles. After walking for several hours along the side of +the Bald Eagle creek, I arrived at the foot of the Alleghanies. They +are composed of sandstone, and are more extensive than any in the +States on this side of the Rocky Mountains, though their height is +inconsiderable. The most elevated part of the ridge in Pennsylvania +does not, as I have said before, exceed 1300 feet; but at the other +peak, in Virginia, it rises to 3950 feet above the level of the great +western rivers, being two or three hundred feet higher than Ben +Lomond. The High Peak on the Rocky Mountains is the highest mountain +in the United States, and attains an elevation of 12,500 feet. Mount +Washington, the highest of the White Mountains, is 6234 feet in +height; Mansfield, in Vermont, the most lofty of the Green Mountains, +is somewhat higher than Ben Nevis in Scotland, as it rises to 4279 +feet. I ascended the Alleghany by a good road, that wound gradually up +the side of the mountain, and after a walk of about three hours and a +half, I was in full contemplation of the most extensive forest view I +had ever yet beheld. I have seen many of the dark and impenetrable pine +forests in the north of Europe, where the mountains are far higher, and +the scenery proportionably grander, but I never remember a forest so +interminable as that I am speaking of. One small patch of cultivation +was perceivable in a very distant valley, called, I believe, Penn’s +Valley. The vast thickets of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, are chiefly +of pine trees, and are grand and gloomy enough, but sometimes tiresome +from their monotony. Nature has painted them with her usual ability; +but the colouring she has employed may be compared to that of a +drawing in Indian ink, equally creditable to the artist, but not so +pleasing to the eye as a many-tinted picture. There are plenty of pines +on the Alleghany, but there is also an immense assemblage of other +trees. A lady informed me, that being desirous of sending to England +specimens of the different woods of this part of the country, she +collected fifty-two without any difficulty; but there are many more +than these. The principal material of the American navy is, as I have +before noticed, afforded by the live-oak, so called from its being +an evergreen, and from its elasticity, extreme durability, and other +generous properties. The leaf of this tree resembles the ilex of Spain +and England, but is rather larger, and more pointed. It is not found in +Pennsylvania—growing in the southern States chiefly, in Georgia and +the Carolinas, whence it is conveyed to the different dock-yards of the +Union. + +There are here, nevertheless, more than thirty varieties of the +oak, each bearing a distinct fruit: of these, the white-oak, which +is inferior in quality but comes the nearest to the navy-oak of +Great Britain; the red-oak, the black, and the rock, or scrub-oak, +are the most common. The other trees of the forest, are usually the +Spanish-chestnut (two varieties)—the horse-chestnut is not indigenous +in America, but thrives well; I saw one at the Manor near Baltimore—the +hickory (two varieties); the black-walnut; the American-poplar, or +tulip-tree, the pride of the American forest, and growing frequently to +an enormous size; yellow, white, spruce, and hemlock pines—the larch +is not found, or is rarely to be met with, in the United States: I +have not seen them in the Canadas—bass-wood, or common English-lime; +sugar-maple, white maple, red and white elm, willow, sassafras, black +and yellow birch, ash, gum-tree, beech, iron-wood, mulberry, dog-wood, +rhododendron in great quantities, kalmea, latifolia, hazel, red and +white cedar, clematis, virginiana, indigo, and a great variety of ferns +and wild vines. + +In the autumn, or fall, as it is universally and prettily termed in +America, the forest view is excessively beautiful, in consequence of +the brilliant assemblage of colours exhibited by the diversity of +foliage collected together. My eye roved over a constant succession +of mountain and valley, and hill and hollow, all alike clothed in the +glorious forest garb, whilst the more distant tints became bluer and +bluer, till they faded away at the farthest verge of the horizon. +The Indian had long been driven or bought out from this part of the +country; but the rocks and thickets of the forest beneath me had +doubtless concealed many an ambush, and witnessed many a carnage. They +had responded to the sharp twang of the rifle, and re-echoed the more +terrific war-whoop; but during the time that I remained on the top of +the mountain, all around me was as silent as the place was solitary, +with the exception of the occasional stroke from the peaceful axe of +the back-woodsman, that resounded from a glade about a mile from the +spot where I had sat down to rest myself. + +I soon afterwards passed the Moshanan Creek, in which an expert +fisherman on a favourable day can kill any quantity of trout he +pleases. Beside the bridge, is a small and solitary tavern, kept by an +Englishman from Gloucestershire. With him resides an old man named +Joseph Earl, a complete specimen of the real backwoodsman; just such +a character as Leatherstocking, in Mr. Cooper’s novel. He will take +his rifle and his knapsack, and frequently absent himself for weeks +at a time in search of game. If he kill a deer, he will carry off +the skin, and hang up the venison in a secure place, and from his +intimate acquaintance with the mountains, and every settler who lives +in them, no long time elapses before he can command any assistance +he may require. The principal tenants of the forest are the cougar +or painter (panther), as it is very improperly termed; the bear, the +wolf, the lynx (called the cat-a-mount), the wild cat, the marmot, +the racoon, the opossum, and red and grey foxes. The deer, which in +some places is very abundant, is the cervus virginianus, a species +unknown in Europe, of a size between the red and common fallow deer, +with a small palmated horn. Beside this there are but two species of +deer found in the eastern States, the moose deer, or great Siberian +elk, and the American elk, four of which were exhibited in London +some years ago under the coined name of wapiti, and which have bred +very well in England. Other kinds of deer, and goats, and sheep, and +an antelope from the Rocky Mountains, are exhibited in the Zoological +museum. The reindeer is found in the colder latitudes of Lower Canada, +where it exists in large herds. A species of stag of gigantic size, +with enormous horns, which Humboldt considers as a distinct species, +is very common in the forests and plains of New California. He thinks +it probable that the horns which were displayed by Montezuma to the +companions of Cortez, as objects of curiosity on account of their +immense size, belonged to this animal. A species of the same genus +as the European chevreuil, or roebuck, is also found in Canada and +some of the States. It is larger, and longer eared than the European +animal. Of the cervus virginianus, or common deer of America, a single +hunter will sometimes kill two or three in a day; but will more often +go without a shot, as they are very wild, and their sense of smelling +exceedingly acute. A still day is unfavourable; a windy day is the +best, as the sportsman can then come very near them on the windward +side. The cougar is their greatest enemy, but is luckily not very +common. A few years ago an American gentleman who had taken up his +shooting-quarters at the tavern I have just mentioned, wounded a deer, +and tracked it by the blood. On coming up with it, he observed a cougar +on the animal; he fired, and had the satisfaction to see it drop dead. +When he approached, he saw another, that had crouched behind the body +of the deer. He disabled him, and killed him with the third shot. As he +was returning, he killed another deer, and brought all the four skins +with him to the tavern. The old Englishman shewed me the scalp of a +deer that had been killed during the last season: a cougar was in full +pursuit of him; and the deer took to the water close by the tavern. +The cougar sprang on him in the water, but made off when he saw one of +the old man’s sons approaching with a rifle, from which the poor deer +received his death-wound immediately afterwards. I found that there was +a penalty of five dollars for killing a deer at this season of the year. + +The winged game of these forests are—the wild turkey, which being +pursued with avidity by the sportsman, is becoming more scarce every +day: it is larger than the tame turkey, and its plumage closely +resembles that of the dark-coloured domesticated bird, but is rather +more brilliant; the pheasant, which is a species of wood-grouse; the +partridge, which should rather be termed a quail, but which is, in +fact, as I have hereafter noticed, neither one nor the other; the +woodcock, snipe, pigeons, and wild fowl, in great abundance. + +The largest snakes found in these forests, are the rattle-snake, +the copper-head, or moccasin-snake, so called from its yellow +colour, resembling that of the moccasin, or Indian sandal; and the +black-snake. The latter grows to the length of seven or eight feet, +and even longer. It moves with great rapidity, is a species of the +boa-constrictor, and its habits and manner of taking its prey are +similar to those of that tremendous reptile. The bite is not poisonous. +The copper-head is a very dangerous snake, as it gives no warning +like the rattle-snake. Its name is its description, as far as it goes. +Its length is about three feet. The rattle-snake is too well known +to need much description: it invariably raises its tail and rattles +before it strikes, so that, in general, it can be easily avoided. The +Indians consider this as proof of its noble nature, and accordingly +they never destroy it, believing that it has something divine in it. +A large rattle-snake would measure four feet in length, perhaps, or a +little more, but is very thick in proportion. When about to attack, +it suddenly coils itself, with the tail raised, and rattling in the +middle of the coil, and can strike from nearly its whole length. It is +a very spirited animal; and from its moving but slowly out of the way, +is destroyed with little difficulty. Much has been said of the extreme +danger of its bite, and of the number of persons bitten; but like the +accidents from canine madness in England, they are far more often heard +of than met with. It is most probable that a person would die, unless +immediately assisted,—or have at all events a very narrow escape, +if bitten on any part of the body that happened to be naked; but if +struck through his clothes, so great a proportion of poison is by them +absorbed, or prevented from coming in contact with the blood, that the +bite, if taken in time, is not dangerous. + +It is a well known and singular fact, that the body of a person +bitten, will sometimes change whilst under the influence of the +poison, to the colour of the snake that bit him. The plant called the +rattle-snake weed (bidens frondosa) is a remedy used by the Indians, +and sometimes, I was credibly informed, with great effect. The leaves +and root are boiled in milk and used as a poultice; the milk is also +taken internally. In Mr. Pratt’s botanical garden at Philadelphia, I +saw a specimen of another plant which is also considered efficacious +(polygela senaga) called by the French “l’herbe a serpente a +sonnettes.” It grows in damp and shady parts of the woods, to a height +of about two feet; has a small pointed leaf, and a single fusiform +root, resembling a piece of stick-liquorice. I was, however, assured by +a physician of eminence at Philadelphia, that the only remedy he had +never known to fail, was the speedy application of a cupping glass to +the wound, and a large tea spoonful of ammonia in a wine glass filled +with water, administered every hour till the symptoms took a favourable +turn. It is well known that hogs soon destroy every snake in the woods +around a settlement. They eat them, and are seldom known to suffer +from the bite, owing, it is said, to the quantity of fat in their +system. Almost every wild animal is their enemy; small birds will often +peck at them, although at the same time credence is certainly to be +given to the stories of fascination or terror by which small animals, +such as squirrels and birds, are sometimes rendered unable to escape +from them. Deer will crush them to death, by jumping on them with all +their four feet brought close together. I was frequently told that +rattle-snakes were common here and there; but still I never saw one: +the fact is, that they generally lie concealed. A person travelling +in the woods, will sometimes come suddenly upon fifty or a hundred +of them basking on the rocks. They all retire as the cold weather +approaches, and lie torpid during the whole winter; so that a sportsman +is in no danger from them. A French gentleman, who a year or two ago +was shooting grouse very early in the season, on the mountains in New +Jersey, was suddenly struck near his hip by a rattle-snake of the +largest size; thanks to his loose fustain trowsers, the fangs did not +touch him; the brute could not extricate itself, and hung upon him till +stunned by repeated blows from his gun. + + * * * * * + +Philipsburg is rapidly increasing, under the advantages of English +superintendence: it contains about eight hundred inhabitants in the +town and environs. It is almost exclusively the property of one +English gentleman, who is master of nearly 70,000 acres in that part +of the country. While I partook of his hospitality, I was agreeably +surprised by the circle of English society, which I found collected +under his roof. Several English have made Philipsburg their place of +residence. Its advantages consist in a remarkably healthy situation on +the western slope of the Alleghanies, where the descent is so gradual +as to be hardly perceptible; an easy and constant communication with +Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh on the Ohio; excellent trout-fishing, and +shooting in the forest; a very cheap market (a sheep or deer can be +bought for a dollar), and excellent medical advice. Uncleared land may +be purchased at one, two, or three dollars an acre. + +The large beaver dams in this neighbourhood afford the finest pasture +imaginable. They run for several miles along the side of the Moshanan +Creek. What is now called a beaver dam, is not merely the fence or +dam which that industrious animal had thrown across the stream, but +the whole meadow over which the water was spread in consequence of +its being arrested in its course. The beaver was held sacred by the +Indians, and their habitations were probably undisturbed for centuries. +The stream, when checked in its career by the dam which those +extraordinary animals had constructed, found its level, of course, in +every nook to which it could gain access; and tree and shrub rotted +away with so much moisture. As the beaver was destroyed, or driven out +by the progress of civilization, the dams gave way, and the stream soon +returned to its former channel, and the bottom of the pond or dam is +converted into a fine meadow, exceedingly valuable for the purposes of +the grazier. A person may travel through the forest for many miles, +and will suddenly emerge upon a green open space, with scarcely a +tree or shrub upon it, although at the same time it be surrounded by +a leafy wall of the loftiest forest trees. An English gentleman had +just commenced a farm on one of these dams, and I rode about six miles +through the woods to visit him. The place had much the appearance of an +English park, which deer and other wild animals would frequently cross, +and sometimes within rifle-shot from his window. It was more than a +mile in length, with the shape and appearance of a billiard table. + +At Philipsburg, and in the neighbourhood, are several iron works. I +visited a curious screw manufactory there: the machine for heading the +screws was invented on the spot, and probably there is not such another +to be found any where. It turned out about sixty screws in a minute, +and finished them off with a neatness that would excite the surprise +even of a mechanist. + +I have before mentioned that Philadelphia will shortly be connected +with the Ohio river, by means of the Columbia rail-road, from which +the great Pennsylvania canal will soon be finished to the foot of the +Alleghany mountains, where it will be joined by another rail-road, +which will pass the mountains, and communicate with Pittsburg. Another +rail-road will, most probably, be constructed, so as to intersect +the same canal a little above Huntingdon. It will come from the +bituminous coal district, which lies about Philipsburg and Clearfield +county, and is spread over a great extent of ground on the western +slope of the Alleghany. Plenty of stone or anthracite coal is to be +found in many parts of Pennsylvania, and in vast quantities; but the +bituminous coal used in the transatlantic cities is supplied either +from Liverpool, from Nova Scotia, or from Virginia. The particles +of the Virginia coal, however, are too much divided, and it more +resembles the coal used by a blacksmith, than the Newcastle coal. +I have understood that bituminous coal has been lately discovered, +although in very small quantities, in Pennsylvania, on the eastern +side of the mountain. The anthracite coal throws out a very powerful +heat, but is very troublesome and unmanageable, requiring a long time +before it will kindle properly; burning without flame or smoke, and +creating an unpleasant and rather unhealthy dryness in the atmosphere +of a room. An experiment had been successfully tried in New York, by +which the anthracite coal had been rendered subservient to the purposes +of the steam-engine. It was contrived that a stream of hydrogen-gas, +generated by part of the engine, should flow constantly over the +burning coal, so that a powerful flame was thus fed under the boiler. +But in all cases where a manageable fire is required, the bituminous +coal is far preferable. By means of the Philipsburg rail-road, the +whole country will be supplied with this valuable mineral, at a very +moderate expense, from the inexhaustible stores on the western slope +of the Alleghany. The necessity of making cheaper iron is becoming +daily more imperative in the United States. For this end, to say +nothing of the carriage of timber, the Philipsburg rail-road will be +very advantageous, as it will bring down the coal to be converted into +coke, to be used in the smelting furnaces; and it will pass through +the midst of the Juniata iron district, where more than twenty forges +and furnaces already exist in full activity; and whose increasing +importance calls for a more adequate and expeditious mode of conveyance +than it at present commands. The whole country will be much benefited; +and independently of the real and lasting advantages to be gained by +the construction of the Philipsburg rail-road, an early attention to +the plan, from the proper quarter, will be but justice to the exertions +of a gentleman, who, with his brothers before him, has devoted time +and capital to the enterprise, and has called into existence a highly +respectable community, and the most thriving and useful settlement in +the back woods of Pennsylvania. + + +[Illustration: + G.T. Vigne delṭ + + T. S. Engleheart, sculpṭ + + NORTHUMBERLAND, ON THE SUSQUEHANNA, PENNSYLVANIA. + + _Published by Whittaker & C^o. April 10, 1832._] + + * * * * * + +I left Philipsburg, and returned to Belfont, whence I took the +road to Northumberland. In about six hours I again came in sight +of the Susquehanna, flowing through an extensive valley, with its +lofty southern bank robed to the very summit by a covert so thickly +interwoven as to be absolutely impassable. I proceeded down the side +of the river till I arrived at the ferry at Dunnsburg. Here I met +with a piece of singular incivility and impudence. The insolent young +Charon allowed me to place my luggage in his leaky bark; but as I was +proceeding to take my seat, he “calkilated,” with the most disagreeable +twang (at least, I thought so) that I had yet heard, “that I must pay +him a fip (five-penny bit) before I put my foot into his boat.” It was +all in vain that I pointed to my portmanteau, intimating that it would +be “assets” for the payment of my passage to the other side. Nothing +would satisfy him but my fip beforehand; and I was obliged to pay it. +It appeared that some stage-passengers had gone off without paying, and +he did not wish to be cheated a second time. The guard who arrived with +the mail, was so enraged at his conduct, that he actually took out one +of the horses, crammed him through the river, and arrived safely on +the other side with the letter-bags. + +Within a mile or two of Dunnsburg, are some Indian tumuli; but I did +not stop to see them. I travelled onward through a most delightful +country, abounding in black-oak; the bark of which is sent down the +river, and shipped off in great quantities for England, where it is +used in dying. I enjoyed a very fine view from the hill over which the +road passes near Moncey; but I afterwards saw the same prospect to +much greater advantage, from Northumberland. This place contains about +two thousand inhabitants, and is most delightfully situated on the +neck of land that separates the northern and western branches of the +Susquehanna. The celebrated Dr. Priestley spent the latter years of his +life in this place. He died about twenty-five years ago. I was assured +by an old and intimate friend of his, who was with him but a few +minutes before he died, that there was great foundation for a prevalent +belief, that for some months previously to his death, he changed his +opinions in favour of the divinity of Christ. + +Good land, in a state of cultivation, is worth twenty, thirty, forty, +or even a hundred dollars the acre, in this part of the country. The +average profits of land amount to twelve and a half per cent. Thirty +bushels of wheat is a good crop. The wages of the married labourer are +fifteen dollars a month (the United States dollar is equal to 4_s._ +6_d._). Single men, who board at the house of their employer, receive +but ten. Wherever I made inquiry, I found the rate of labourers’ wages +to be much the same throughout the States. + +I crossed the western branch of the Susquehanna by a new and handsome +wooden bridge, built as usual on stone piers. Its length was 1316 feet, +and it cost 70,000 dollars. I then immediately ascended the heights +on the other side. From them I had a full view of both branches of +this “shining river,” an appellation which none deserves better than +the Susquehanna. I preferred the scenery around Moncey to that in +the direction of Wyoming. The sun was declining behind the precipice +on which I stood, which was thrown more and more into shade, as the +red rays glanced through the pines on its summit, and swept downward +into the broad and beautiful valley beneath me. The windings of the +river were visible to a great distance. Although considerably larger, +it strongly reminded me of the Thames seen from Richmond-hill. Its +tranquil lake-like stream meandered through the country, encircling +several islands: at one time gliding in silence through the forest, +or emerging to roll its waters over a rich and extensive meadow, it +freshened every thing in its course; and when it had fully performed +the task of ornament and usefulness allotted to it by nature, it seemed +to lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains, from which in +reality it issued. + +Beautiful as it is, yet, were this England, I could not help thinking, +how different would be the appearance of the country! I am gazing on +a view, as splendid as any one of the same character I ever beheld in +any land,—I see before me a noble river, winding its way through an +exquisite landscape, of hill and dale, and wood and verdure, abounding +in every resource that could make a country life agreeable; but it is +in vain that my disappointed eye roves over the scene, and rests on the +most magnificent situations for park and palace: where, thought I, are +the “stately homes of England?”—where is the marble-fronted hall, and +the village church beside it, with its spire pointing to the heavens? +The powerless genius of embellishment wanders disconsolate along the +beautiful banks of the Susquehanna, and bitterly complains that he is +fettered by the spirit of democracy. + +I am far from meaning to infer in the above passage, that there is +any lack of churches in the United States. On the contrary, they are +numerous. As an Englishman, I am here speaking merely with reference to +situation, and the association of ideas excited in my mind. + +The Americans, in general, are not fond of comparisons between England +and their own country, except in cases where the balance is in their +favour; but still, I have often observed that there is no subject +of conversation more gladly discussed by an American gentleman, and +more particularly by those who have country houses of their own, +than the splendour of the seats of our nobility and gentry, and the +perfection of society which is enjoyed at them. There is nothing in +England so apt to elicit from them a remark of honest regret, as their +knowledge of the very remote probability, I may almost add, the utter +hopelessness, of their ever being able to boast of seats and villas +at all equal to those on this side of the Atlantic, so long as the +present form of government exists in full force. Who would build a +really splendid mansion, which, after his death, will probably either +become a ruin, or be sold, and converted into an hospital? or who would +clear and beautify a park of any extent, to be divided and ploughed +up by his needy successors? I have seen country houses in America, +whose delightful situation, and gentlemanly appearance, (although it +must be allowed, they often look their best at a distance), only serve +to render the prospect of division the more melancholy. I have been +kindly received at many of them: I have usually noticed a due attention +to comfort and elegance, and invariably, to kindness and hospitality; +but I have not been able to avoid a remark, that there did not appear +to be much difference in the size of the houses, or the extent of the +grounds, as if there existed a general and mournful acknowledgment, +that a just medium was to be observed between the expense incurred with +reference to present enjoyment, and the probability of an ultimate loss +of capital, when the future was regarded. I could name a few, but very +few, exceptions. + +Whatever the Americans may think of their institutions in other +respects, there are many sensible Americans—and I have met with +them—who will acknowledge the inefficacy of these to counteract +the disadvantages, not to say miseries, sometimes arising from +the non-existence of the law of primogeniture. The object is, to +exclude the preponderance of wealth, because it tends to generate +an aristocracy of political power. The non-existence of the law of +primogeniture is, I think, with great deference, but lamely defended +by Chancellor Kent, in his admirable Commentaries on American Law, +and which, by the way, are most richly deserving of a place in every +library, if it be merely on account of the learned dissertations +on the history of every republic of note that has ever existed. He +quotes Adam Smith in support of his opinions; the Marquess Garnier, +his French translator; and the Baron de Stael Holstein,—and although +he acknowledges the attendant evils, yet he says it would be an error +to suppose that they have been already felt. But surely there are +some which he does not contemplate in his work; but which must be +acknowledged to have a miserable effect upon the state of society. A +sale, not unattended with sacrifice, takes place at the decease of +nearly every person who dies in possession of landed property. This +is followed by a minute division of the proceeds amongst the next of +kin. As to the law of dower, it is much the same as that of England +generally; but where the sale has been made, the produce is considered +as real estate so far, and the widow receives an annuity from one +third in lieu of her dower. This does not effect the distribution of +the remainder, which is divided as in England. It often happens, that +the share of each person, if young, is just enough to purchase his +destruction. + +Very frequently, but in some States more than others, its most +prominent application is detected by the effects of a vicious +indulgence in ardent spirits, principally among the second and +lower classes. Drunkenness still prevails to an alarming extent, +notwithstanding the benign presence of the temperate societies. I +have heard the most melancholy and appalling accounts of its ravages +in private life; and in one place I was informed of its disgusting +influence over judicial morality. The root of the evil is in the +expectations which are formed: it is the certainty of actual possession +of property at a future time, accompanied by ignorance as to its +amount, that so often cherishes in the children the most dissolute +habits of idleness, with all their attendant evils. Supposing both +of them in the same easy circumstances as country gentlemen, and +fathers of families, how different must of necessity be the sentiments +of an American and an Englishman, when they survey their respective +fire sides! Both see around them their wives and children, in the +possession of affluence and comfort, and happy in the enjoyment of +each other’s society. But in the event of his death, how gloomy may be +the picture drawn by the one, in opposition to that contemplated by +the other! A divided estate and a dispersed family, present themselves +to the mind of the American; or perhaps a small part of them living +together, but unable to command any share of the luxuries, and not many +of the comforts they enjoy during his lifetime, in consequence of a +secession of property by marriage, or decrease of it from dissipation. +The Englishman feels a debt of gratitude to the constitution of his +country: in the event of his death, his house, in the possession of +his eldest son, will be a home for his widow and a place of meeting +for his children. His younger sons have been brought up under the idea +that they are to be the architects of their own fortunes, and such a +doctrine has not rendered them unhappy, because it has enforced the +virtue of contentment. The law of primogeniture perpetuates, through +the eldest son, a species of parental affection and authority; and +where there is a title to descend, there is a further inducement to +the eldest son to emulate the virtues or the actions of an illustrious +father; or, if that father has brought disgrace upon a distinguished +name or sullied the escutcheon of a distinguished family (which, be +it added, is sometimes the case), the son may be naturally desirous +of wiping away the stain, and of giving the benefit of his example +to society, by his imitation of the character of a nobler ancestor. +There is yet a further deficiency of inducement to exertion existing +in the American, and in every other democracy. In England, a young man +in the enjoyment of a sufficient income, and who is consequently not +obliged to labour at any profession with a view to its increase, yet +with the possibility of obtaining a title, will exert his abilities to +the utmost; but in America, the stimulus of titled distinction being +unknown, it must often happen that the finest talents are doomed to +remain unemployed. + +I crossed the north branch of the Susquehanna, and passed on to the +town of Sunbury, on the bank of the main river, and about two miles +distant from Northumberland. Sunbury is a very pretty country town, +with a delightful promenade along the side of the river. In all parts +of the vicinity there are some beautiful prospects: near it, a very +large dam has been thrown across the stream, where, by the junction of +its two branches, it spreads out, and forms a basin three quarters of a +mile across. I observed some fishermen hauling their nets, and went up +to them. They had taken some cat-fish, and several salmon. The cat-fish +has obtained its name from its appearance: its head, which is out of +all proportion to its body, is large and round, with the addition of +two worm-like appendages projecting beneath the eyes, like the whiskers +of a cat. It is altogether a dark, ugly-looking fish; but is eatable, +with a flavour something like that of an eel, but inferior. In the +larger western rivers it sometimes attains a weight of eighty or one +hundred pounds. The fish improperly called the salmon, in no respects +resembles the real salmon of Great Britain. It has none of the +peculiarities of the salmo genus; and does not rise at a fly. In figure +it is not remarkable; in colour it is more similar to the pike than to +any fish I am acquainted with. The weight of those usually taken, is +about a pound; but some of them are larger. A fly-fisher would have but +moderate sport on the Susquehanna; but he might kill a great variety +of fish, if he condescended to use a bait, and might occasionally +take a large trout with a minnow. The river contains pike and eels, +of immense size; trout, not numerous; rock-fish, cat-fish, suckers, +common and silver perch—a beautiful fish; and a very small species of +lamprey, that is only used as a bait. The shad is also found in great +quantities in this and almost all the rivers of the Eastern States. +It is excellent eating, and usually weighs about four pounds; but I +thought the flavour of the Susquehanna salmon equal, if not superior, +to any fish I tasted in the United States. I should almost presume that +it was peculiar to that river, as I have frequently met with natives of +other States who had never heard of it. + +At Sunbury, I chanced to be told that three Yorkshiremen had just been +taken up. I would bet three to one, said I to myself, that their crime +is horse-stealing! and so it proved when I made inquiry. + +I here turned my steps away from the Susquehanna, which for placid +beauty surpassed in my opinion any other river in the States, and +proceeded towards Philadelphia, by way of Pottsville and Reading. +Scarcely more than a year ago there were but a few houses at the former +place; but in consequence of the immediate vicinity of enormous beds of +anthracite coal, and the improved means of conveyance to Philadelphia, +its size and importance had increased in a most extraordinary manner. + +The country around Philadelphia is very flat; so that I could not +find a rising ground to take a sketch from, at what I considered the +best distance. But, I think, in passing down the river, in my way to +Baltimore, I perceived a small cliff on the left bank, that would have +answered the purpose, being distant about two miles and a half. A view +in a flat country requires great minuteness, if it be taken correctly, +and would have occupied too much time; besides, before commencing a +drawing of either of the larger cities in the Union, it really became +a matter of consideration, that I had but one cake of “Newman’s light +red” in my colour-box. + +A fine steamer carried me down the Delaware. About thirty-five miles +from Philadelphia, we passed Wilmington and Brandywine. We were +then landed at the mouth of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal, and +were towed onward, at a brisk trot, in one of the canal boats, and +soon entered the Elk river, near the head waters of Chesapeake bay. +The country was flat; and a great proportion of it was covered with +forest. Here we went on board another steam-boat, that rattled us along +at a tremendous pace down the Chesapeake, passing the mouth of the +Susquehanna. The captain assured me that upon one occasion, during a +camp-meeting, he had carried no less than fifteen hundred persons at a +time; he landed them during the night, and about two hundred got away +without paying their passage. + +In an hour or two, the North Point, at the entrance of the Patapsco +river, became visible. General Ross landed here, with the British +force of 5000 men, on the 12th of September, 1814, and met his death +in the skirmish that ensued shortly afterwards. I rode from Baltimore +to the spot where he fell, marked by a small plain stone-monument, by +the side of the road. The last four miles out of fourteen lay through a +very pretty wood, affording a most grateful shade. When we were within +two miles from the city, we passed Fort Mac Henry, which was bombarded +upon the same occasion, almost from the extremity of the range of a +shell. Some of them, where they fell, penetrated the ground to a depth +of five or six feet. + +Baltimore, when viewed from the Chesapeake, appears to be built +over several low hills, or slopes, and surrounded by others that +are considerably higher. Its situation is much finer than that +of Philadelphia. It is not so fine as that of New York; but in +some respects, is, I think, superior to Boston. When approached by +water, the most conspicuous objects are—Washington’s monument, the +shot-towers, the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the Unitarian church, +all scattered in different parts of the city. Washington’s monument +is a plain column of marble, raised on a square base, 175 feet in +height, and surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington. It is seen +from a great distance on every side, and commands the finest and most +extensive prospect; but I am very much inclined to doubt the taste +that placed any other than an allegorical object on the top of a lofty +pillar. The size of the column, and its simplicity, are calculated +to excite admiration; but in my humble judgment, it would have been +much better to have had a really fine statue placed inside the base of +the column, than to perch the General upon a height that would make +a living Admiral feel giddy. Lord Hill’s monument, near Shrewsbury, +and that to the memory of General Brock, at Queenstown, are, I think, +objectionable, for the same reasons. The battle monument is much +prettier, although it is somewhat florid in its ornaments: it is +fifty-four feet in height. The column is a circular fasces, symbolical +of the Union, twined round with fillets, bearing the names of those +who fell on the 12th and 13th of September, 1814; and supporting an +allegorical statue of a female, personifying the city of Baltimore, +with a bald eagle, the United States’ emblem, at her side. The +Archbishop of Maryland is the metropolitan of the States. The Catholic +cathedral is a handsome building, with a dome in imitation of the +Pantheon. The inside, which is divided into pews, contains two very +good pictures from the French school: a descent from the cross, by +Paul Guerin, presented by Louis XVI.; and St. Louis burying his dead +officers and soldiers before Tunis, by Steaben, presented by Charles +X. The descent from the cross is much and deservedly admired. It has +the merit of being free from that tedious detail that is usually to +be observed in the works of French artists, who paint every thing +as it is, and not as it appears. It occurred to me, that the body +of Christ did not sufficiently rest on the ground, as intended. The +latter picture displays more of the French taste. I did not like +it so well, but many prefer it to the other. At Baltimore, is the +University of Maryland, which ranks very high as a medical school. +The average expenses of a student are one hundred and twenty dollars +per annum. It has also professors in law and divinity. St. Mary’s +College and Baltimore College are also justly celebrated throughout +the Union; the latter will accommodate one hundred and fifty students, +who are instructed, by twelve professors, in the ancient and modern +languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, &c. The city also contains +a good museum, which I did, and many more public buildings, which I +did not visit, as I could not learn that there was any thing in them +particularly deserving of attention. The theatre was not open. + + * * * * * + +The waters of the Chesapeake and the Patapsco are the favourite resort +of the canvas-back duck, which I had always been told was the greatest +delicacy imaginable; and, “like nothing else, sir! I assure ye!” The +sporting commences early in November, and affords most excellent sport. +An experienced shot will sometimes kill three dozen in a morning +with a single gun; and occasionally they are shot on the wing with a +single rifle. The canvas-back duck very much resembles the red-headed +wigeon, or common dun-bird. Lucien Bonaparte, who has so well continued +Wilson’s work on American Ornithology, has successfully shown that it +is quite a different bird. It is about half as large again, with a +black and different formed bill and black legs. Those of the red-headed +wigeon are of a dark lead colour. They breed on the borders of the +great lakes, or about Hudson’s Bay; but in the winter months, they +are found in prodigious quantities on the Chesapeake, the Patapsco, +and the Potamac. Its flavour is owing to the root of the Vallissneria +Americana, or wild celery, on which it feeds, and for which it will +dive to a depth of eight or ten feet. The red-headed wigeon, when in +company with the canvas-back, will often wait till it has risen from +the bottom, and then snatch from it the hard-earned morsel. The _bons +vivants_ of America, talk of the canvas-back with an interest that +borders on affection, and is sometimes very amusing. “Sir,” said an old +fellow to me, “I wished to give a duck feast, and accordingly I bought +nine couple of them, all fresh killed, and all of the right weight. I +stuffed them into every corner of my gig; and would not suffer the cook +to touch them, except in my presence. I dressed them all myself, in +different ways, in my parlour, so as to have them all done according +to figure, sir! Well, sir! all my company had arrived, except an old +German; we could not wait, and sat down without him. When he came, he +exclaimed, ‘What! noshing but duckhs!’ I started up in a rage, sir! a +violent rage, sir! ‘Noshing but duckhs!’ I repeated after him: Why, +you d——d old scoundrel, said I, your own Emperor of Austria never +had such a dinner: he could not, sir, though he gave the best jewel in +his crown for it.” I tasted these birds several times before I quitted +America, and they certainly are extremely good. The meat is dark, +and should be sent to table underdone, or what in America is called +“rare.” I think the flavour might be imitated by a piece of common wild +duck, and a piece of fine juicy venison, tasted at the same time. The +word “rare” used in that sense, and which is given by Johnson, on the +authority of Dryden, is no doubt one of many which have retained in +America, a meaning in which they are not now used in England, but which +was doubtless carried over the Atlantic by the settlers of a hundred +years ago. I confess that I was for some time in error. I heard every +one around me giving orders that his meat should be “rare,” and I +thought it a mispronunciation of the word raw. + +The environs of Baltimore are exceedingly pretty: almost every eminence +is crowned with a country house, surrounded by gardens and pleasure +grounds richly wooded, and laid out to the best advantage, so as +generally to afford a peep through the trees at some part of the +Patapsco, or the Chesapeake. They are admirably adapted for a fête +champêtre, or a strawberry party, as it is called at Baltimore. I had +the honour of an invitation to the only one that was given during my +stay in that city. The company assembled about six o’clock. Quadrilles +and waltzes were kept up with great spirit, first on the lawn, and +then in the house till about eleven. In the mean time strawberries +and cream, ices, pine apples, and champagne, were served up in the +greatest profusion. I had understood, and am quite ready to admit, that +Baltimore deservedly enjoys a high reputation for female beauty. I am +speaking of the American ladies in general, when I remark that it is no +injustice to them to maintain, that where you will see twenty pretty +girls, you will not see one really handsome woman. I have frequently +observed the prettiest features,—such as more reminded me of England, +than of any other country; but I think that most Europeans who have +formed a correct taste from the “stone ideal” of Greece, would agree +with me that ladies with pretensions to that higher degree of beauty, +are not so often to be met with in America as in England. There is one +particular in which they would do well to imitate my fair countrywomen. +They have great charms for the breakfast table; but yet, elegant and +lady-like as many of them undoubtedly are, how often have I been +compelled to wish, that the breakfast table had not quite so many +charms for them. They _must_ know that to eat is unfeminine; and that +ladies should in the presence of gentlemen, appear _very_ hungry, is +a decided proof of a deficiency in national manners,—just as much, or +even more so, than that men, be they who or what they may, should sit +with their hats on in the dress circle at New York. The influence of a +court would extend to, and would remedy all this. I should here again +remark, that the first society is seldom seen at the theatre, and would +not be guilty of such behaviour. + +It is a matter of great surprise to a stranger, that there is not one +single promenade at Baltimore. There are some very eligible situations +immediately adjoining the city, and which to all appearance are so +easily convertible into a public walk, that it is difficult to +understand why the ladies do not insist upon its commencement. I would +most humbly advise them to do so. + +I was honoured with an invitation to “the Manor,” the country residence +of Mr. Carroll, of Carrollton. The house was built long before the +revolution, and is a curious specimen of Anglo-American architecture, +somewhat resembling one of those large old parsonage houses which are +to be seen in some parts of England. It stands in the midst of an +extensive domain, in a high state of cultivation, and extremely well +and neatly kept, considering that it is worked by slaves. I could have +fancied myself in England, but for the loose zigzag fences of split +logs, which offer to the eye but a poor apology for the English hedge +row. Hedges of any kind would not, generally speaking, thrive well in +the United States. It would be necessary, I was told, that they should +be banked up, in order to keep them from being washed away by the heavy +rains; and it is probable that during the extreme heat of the summer +months, they could not obtain moisture sufficient to preserve them from +being dried up entirely. They are, however, often to be seen close to a +gentleman’s house, where they can be constantly attended to. I should +conceive that the aloe hedges of Spain and Portugal, might succeed in +the United States. It is neither a fault, nor a misfortune, that there +is no water scenery at “the Manor.” The rivers and lakes of America +are usually on a vast and magnificent scale, fitted either to bound or +to deluge a continent; small streams are also common; but a lake for +instance of a mile or two in length, is seldom to be seen, excepting +in New England, where they are plentiful. Before I arrived there, I do +not think that I had seen more than half a dozen ponds, and those all +in Kentucky. Instead of being thought an advantage, a piece of water +is avoided; no American, from choice, would build on its banks, as the +exhalations in the hot weather render such a situation very unhealthy, +excepting in the more northerly states. + +At the manor I partook of that hospitality which is so kindly and +universally extended to every foreigner who visits Baltimore with +a proper letter of introduction. Mr. Carroll himself, is the most +extraordinary individual in America. This venerable old gentleman is in +his ninety-fifth year, is exceedingly cheerful, enjoys most excellent +health, and is in good possession of his faculties. He is the only +survivor of the patriots who signed the Declaration of Independence on +the 4th of July, 1776. He has always adhered to the federal principles, +and his valuable estate is one of the very few that have descended in +a direct line from the first possessor. Mr. Carroll is the grandfather +of the Ladies Wellesley and Caermarthen. + +No one who visits Baltimore should omit seeing the vessels known by +the name of clippers. They are uncommonly neat single-decked schooners +usually, but sometimes are rigged like a brig. Their burden is commonly +about 200 tons. They are cut remarkably sharp at the bows, with a great +breadth of beam. When lying in the water, the head is considerably +elevated above the stern, so that, although the masts are nearly at +right angles with the hull, they appear to rake much more than they +really do. They will sail on a wind at the rate of seven knots an hour, +when other fast sailing vessels can make only five and a half, or six; +but few of them are good sailers before the wind. They usually make +a voyage to the Havannah, where they are sold for slave ships, or to +South America, where they are bought by smugglers or pirates, for whose +occupations they are admirably adapted. They are built nowhere so well +as at Baltimore. + +Two rail-roads had been commenced at Baltimore: one called the +Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, because it was intended to join that +river. The exact line of country through which it would pass, was as +yet a secret with a select few, who would thus be able to secure from +the owners a refusal of the land through which it passed without being +obliged to pay an increased price. The other is called the Susquehanna +rail-road, and was intended to join that river at York-haven, about +sixty miles below Harrisburg. Deputations have been sent from Baltimore +to Philadelphia, to obtain the necessary permission to carry it into +the state of Pennsylvania; but their applications have been, I was +informed, twice refused. The rail-road, however, is still continued, +from a well-grounded persuasion that the inhabitants of the western +parts of Pennsylvania, convinced of the advantages that will accrue +to them by its affording them another means of carriage for their +bituminous coal, iron, and timber, will ultimately succeed in obtaining +a majority in Congress in favour of its completion. But does not a +jealousy of this kind arise, after a contemplation, however distant, +of the political horizon? Has it not a prospective reference to the +interest of the State separately, when the federal government shall be +no more? + +By the constitution of Maryland the governor does not possess the right +of a veto over the Acts of the general assembly. + +More flour is annually inspected at Baltimore, than at any other port +in the United States excepting New York. The amount for the year +1830, was 597,804 barrels; but by the returns made since the first +of January, 1831, it is supposed that the quantity in this year will +exceed 600,000 barrels. The wheat that is shipped, is sent almost +exclusively to England; but it bears a very small proportion to the +flour, although it sells better in the English market—about 70,000 +bushels of wheat were shipped this year for England. The quality in +general is good, excepting that a portion of it is sometimes tainted +with garlick; a nuisance that is almost unavoidable, because the plant +grows spontaneously in the wheat districts. It is said to have been +first introduced by the Hessians, during the revolutionary war, and it +has since increased so much, that it cannot be got rid of. The wheat +exported from Baltimore is grown in the State of Maryland, and in +many parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania. Money had been plentiful for +the last two years, and investments that would produce five per cent. +were not easily to be met with. A market overstocked with imports from +Europe and India, was the assignable cause: trade was comparatively +less brisk, and many capitalists withdrew their funds from active +business, for the purpose of investment in the stock of bank insurance +and rail-road companies. A great quantity of money was likewise lying +in the market in consequence of the national debt being in a course +of reduction by the payment of government loans. However, when I was +there, money was more scarce, and worth more than six per cent.; the +exchange on England had risen as high as eleven per cent. per annum, +and a large quantity of specie had been exported to that country. + +At Baltimore, I first saw the fire-fly. They begin to appear about +sunset, after which they are sparkling in all directions. In some +places ladies will wear them in their hair, and the effect is said to +be very brilliant. Mischievous boys will sometimes catch a bull-frog, +and fasten them all over him. They show to great advantage, while the +poor frog, who cannot understand the “new lights” that are breaking +upon him, affords amusement to his tormentors by hopping about in a +state of desperation. + +About thirty miles from Baltimore, on the western shore as it is +termed, stands Annapolis the capital of Maryland. It is situated at +the bottom of a fine bay, and contains several curious old houses, +built long before the revolution. The most conspicuous object is the +capitol, which is surmounted by a fine steeple. The general assembly +of Maryland, hold their sittings there, and it was there that General +Washington resigned to the federal congress the command he had so nobly +used. It sat there for some time after the independence of the United +States was established. + +At Baltimore, I visited the studies of two very promising young +artists: Mr. Hubard, an Englishman, is certainly the better painter; +but has the advantage of four or five years of experience over Mr. +Miller, who is an American, quite a boy; and whom, I think, at least an +equal genius. He has had little or no instruction. If sent to Europe, +as he certainly ought to be, I will venture to predict, that at some +future period he will be an ornament to his native city; and which he +certainly never will, or can be, if he does not leave it. Will it be +credited, that in America, with all her pretensions to good sense and +general encouragement of emulation and enterprise, the voice of public +opinion is a bar to the advantage of drawing from a living model? +Without it, historical painting cannot thrive, and sculpture must be +out of the question. + +I left Baltimore with regret: I had been kindly and hospitably +treated there,—and in a few hours the mail carried me to Washington. +This city of distances—this capital that is to be—is laid out upon +an open piece of undulating down, on the north side of the Potomac. +The capitol of the United States is built upon the most lofty part +of it, which is ascended by a fine flight of steps, and altogether +has a very imposing appearance, being visible at a great distance +from almost every side. It is of free-stone, which is found on the +river about thirty miles below the city. In front is a magnificent +portico of Corinthian columns, and behind it there is another; in the +same style, (though larger), as that at Wanstead House in Essex, or +Wentworth Castle in Yorkshire, which is a copy of Wanstead. On the top +are three domes; that in the centre would look a great deal better +if it were deeply fluted, like the dome of St. Paul’s; at present it +would be much better out of the way, as it gives a general appearance +of heaviness, to what would otherwise be deservedly thought a very +fine building. From the balustrade is obtained a delightful view of +the river, and the surrounding country. The centre of the interior +of the capitol, is occupied by a large open space under the dome, +containing four pictures, that look very well at a little distance: +the subjects are the Signing of the Declaration of Independence, the +Surrender of General Burgoyne, the Surrender of Lord Cornwallis; +and General Washington resigning his command at Annapolis. They are +painted by Col. Trumbull. The remainder of the capitol is occupied +by the apartments and offices connected with the senate, the house +of representatives, and the supreme court of the United States. The +pillars which support the roof of the chamber of representatives, are +of breccia, or pudding-stone; perhaps the most singular formation of +the kind that is to be found anywhere, not excepting that at Monserrat +in Spain, which is entirely composed of breccia. Fragments of granite, +quartz, limestone, and other rocks, have been pressed together in the +most extraordinary manner, by some stupendous power, and from a little +distance the composition might be mistaken for the _verd antique_. +It is found on the Potomac, about thirty miles above Washington. The +president’s house is a handsome building, with an Ionic portico; and +the only one in the States that resembles the modern residence of +a British nobleman. It is exactly at the distance of one mile and a +half in a straight line from the capitol, and the houses are continued +beyond it for nearly another. Numerous large streets radiate from the +capitol and the president’s house, as centres—a method of laying out a +city far handsomer than that which has been adopted at Philadelphia, +where the streets cross each other at right angles. Who that has +seen the “Perspective” at Petersburg, can ever forget it? where the +principal streets are all pointed towards the beautifully gilt steeple +of the Admiralty, that is seen glittering at the end of each of them. +It must be allowed that this arrangement has its disadvantages in the +shape of the houses, and apartments, one end of which, if they are +regularly divided, must be larger than the other. + +In the dock-yard at Washington, I saw a sixty-gun frigate in a state of +forwardness, and a small schooner constructed on a plan that had never +been applied to a vessel of war, being of the same shape fore and aft, +and having no internal timbers. The blocks made there, are not all of +one piece, as they are at our dock-yard at Portsmouth. A double block +for instance, is composed of seven pieces of wood, exclusively of the +sheave. They are, no doubt, much stronger when made in this manner; but +a man can make but one in half an hour. + +The college at George Town, adjoining the city, is a Catholic +establishment; its members are Jesuits, and who, as usual, are +increasing their influence, by purchasing lands, &c. Attached to the +college, is the nunnery of the Sisters of Visitation, containing about +fifty nuns. They tell there of a Hohenlohe miracle. + +Washington, like most of the American cities, can boast of several +beautiful rides and walks in its vicinity. Arlington, the seat of +George Washington P. Castis, Esq., occupies a most conspicuous and +commanding situation, on the south bank of the Potomac. It is visible +for many miles, and in the distance has the appearance of a superior +English country residence, beyond any place I had seen in the States: +but as I came close to it, as usual, I was wofully disappointed. It +contains a valuable portrait of Washington, when a Major in the British +service, and wearing of course the blue-and-buff uniform. + +Not far from the race ground, and about three miles from George +Town, is the residence of a gentleman who has paid greater and more +indefatigable attention to the culture of the vine than any other +person in America. The vineyards around his house produce several +different kinds of grapes; from which, considering how few years have +elapsed since the attempt was first made, he may be said to have been +very successful in producing some very good and palatable wines. +Amongst others, the best is dignified by the very aristocratic name of +“Tokay.” It is made from the “Catawba” grape, which he himself first +found in a cottager’s garden, not far from a tavern bearing the sign +of the Catawba Indians, distant about twenty miles from Washington. +From this circumstance he called it the Catawba grape. The Catawba +is a river of South Carolina, but no grape of the kind is found near +it. The cottagers could give him no satisfactory account of it, and +he never could find out whether it was indigenous, or, which is most +likely the fact, imported. It is rather a large grape, thick-skinned, +but at the same time very transparent, with a fine purple blush, and +far more fit for making wine than to form part of a dessert. As yet it +appears to thrive better than any kind of grape that has been tried +in the United States; so much so, that at Pittsburgh, and Lancaster, +and other places where there are vineyards, they have cleared away +a large proportion of the European plants, in favour of the Catawba +vine. He informed me that he had sent cuttings of it to every State +in the Union excepting Florida, Arkansaw, and Kentucky. A long time, +however, must elapse before the Americans can compete with the wines +of Europe: as yet, comparatively speaking, little can be known there, +either with reference to the best fruit, or to the soil and temperature +necessary to bring it to perfection. Upwards of seventy kinds of the +wild vine are found in the American forests, but not more than half +of them bear fruit. At Boston I tasted a grape called the Isabella +grape, whose flavour was still harsh, but was a great and decided +improvement in every respect, upon the sourness of the fox-grape of the +woods, from which, I was informed, it had been originally produced. I +am, of course, speaking of the Catawba and other grapes, only in their +wine-making capacity; the grapes raised in the United States for the +table, are exceedingly good and very plentiful. + +As a matter of course, I visited Mount Vernon. A steam-boat conveyed me +to Alexandria in an hour. Alexandria was taken by the British squadron +on the 29th of August, 1814, and the stores of flour, tobacco, and +cotton, were carried off by them. It contains a population of 9000 +persons, and carries on a trade in flour, tobacco, fish, and lumber, to +the southern States and the West Indies, although Baltimore has run +away with the greater part of its commerce. A ride of nine miles on a +well-shaded road, conducted me to Mount Vernon, now in possession of +John Augustine Washington, Esq., nephew to the General, and to the late +Judge, whose worth and learning are recorded by an inscription in the +court-house of Philadelphia. Of the house itself there is little to be +said. I saw there a piece of an old mug, which bears upon it a small +head of the General, said to be the best likeness of him that is known +anywhere. From the lawn, there is a fine view of the Potomac with Fort +Washington nearly opposite, which was abandoned at the approach of the +British squadron in 1814. In passing Mount Vernon, the ships fired a +salute it well deserved. I must confess that I was greatly disappointed +at the sight of the tomb that contains the ashes of Washington. I +did not expect grandeur, but I thought to have seen something more +respectable than either the old, or the new tomb, to which the coffin +was removed two years ago. But for the inscription, I should have +taken them for a couple of ice-houses. An avoidance of every thing +like pretension is desirable only so long as it is attended with +neatness;—but there is not even what can be fairly called a path to +either of them. Instead of feeling as I wished, whilst in contemplation +of the last long-home of this really great, because good man, my mind +was only occupied by intrusive reflections on the insignificant and +pauper-like appearance of the whole scene before me. The tears of La +Fayette, when visiting the tomb in 1825, might have partly flowed from +other sources than the mere consciousness that he was standing in the +presence of the mortal remains of his old friend and companion in +arms. There has been some talk of removing the coffin to the centre of +the hall in the capitol, and of a monument to be raised over it, but +I have understood that it is not seriously contemplated. If it were +placed there, it might one day be the means of saving the Union. How +forcible, how effective, in a moment of danger, might be an eloquent +appeal to its presence, made by the Judges of the supreme court, or the +orators of the American congress! + +I was never fortunate enough to hear a mocking bird in its wild +state; I had frequently heard them in cages, but nowhere in such +perfection as at Washington. This bird, one of the noblest in nature, +is an inhabitant of the southern states only, and is thus described +by Wilson, the celebrated Ornithologist. “The plumage of the mocking +bird would scarcely entitle him to notice, but his figure is well +proportioned, and even handsome. The ease, elegance, and rapidity +of his movements—the animation of his eye, and the intelligence he +displays in listening and laying up lessons from almost every species +of the feathered race within his hearing, are really surprising, and +mark the superiority of his genius. He has a voice capable of almost +every modulation, from the clear mellow notes of the wood-thrush, +to the savage scream of the bald-eagle. In measure and accent, he +faithfully follows his originals; in force and sweetness of expression, +he greatly improves upon them: his admirable song rises paramount +over every competitor. His own native notes are bold and full, and +varied beyond all limits. In the height of his song, his ardour and +animation appear unbounded—he sweeps round with enthusiastic ecstasy—he +mounts or descends as his song swells or dies away; and as my friend +Mr. Bartram, (an American naturalist), has beautifully expressed it: +“he bounds aloft with the rapidity of an arrow, as if to recover or +recall his very soul, expired in the last elevated strain. While thus +exerting himself, a by-stander destitute of sight would suppose, that +the whole feathered tribe had assembled together, each striving to +produce his utmost effort, so perfect are his imitations. He many times +deceives the sportsman, and sends him in search of birds that are not +within a mile of him, but whose notes he exactly imitates. Even birds +themselves are imposed upon by his admirable music, and are decoyed +by the fancied calls of their mates, or are driven with precipitation +into the depths of the forest, at the screams of what they suppose +to be the sparrow-hawk.” He is of a size between the thrush and the +nightingale, but shaped like the latter bird. His plumage in general +is of a cinerous brown colour, with a broad bar of white on the wing, +which he is very fond of displaying. I am afraid that I never heard +them in perfection; but to judge from what I did hear, I should suppose +that although infinitely more varied, his natural notes were neither so +full nor so rich as those of the nightingale. But there are many who +think differently.” + +One morning I was much amused by the debut of a new volunteer corps, +calling themselves the Highlanders,—Washington being one of the +flattest places in the States. The dress would have looked well enough +had it been uniform, but I was told there was not plaid enough of +the same pattern to be obtained in the city. The bonnet had a very +theatrical appearance, and would not have been half so bad, had not +the eye been attracted by the waistcoat and the broad lacings of the +coat, all of which were of a very dark sky-blue. I have a great respect +for the tartan; and I thought it might have looked decent, even when +converted, as it was, into small-clothes, had they not been made +extremely tight. Still, however, the costume of the nether man might +have passed unnoticed, had not the enormous bows at the knees been +composed of tri-coloured ribbon, and the general effect much heightened +by the long nankeen gaiters, which covered the leg from the knee to the +shoe. + +In the capitol, as all the world knows, sit the senate, the house +of representatives, and the supreme court of the United States. And +here I may be permitted to remark, that when writing generally on +such a subject as the United States, every candid person will make +allowances for the impossibility of avoiding a repetition of things +already well known and well described. Under the apprehension that I +shall frequently be in error on this head, I think the safest mode is +to apologise at once, and beforehand. None, however, is necessary for +not entering at large upon a subject so tedious and so endless, as +that of the courts of the different states in their separate capacity +as to the federal judiciary. I may mention, that the United States +are divided into seven judicial circuits, and thirty-two judicial +districts. Each state is one district, with the exceptions of New +York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Tennessee, Louisiana, and Alabama; which +are each of them divided into two districts. There are three courts +belonging to the general or federal government: the district court, +the circuit court, and the supreme court. The district court possesses +a civil and criminal admiralty and maritime jurisdiction, and also +takes cognizance of all cases affecting the revenue, and all crimes +and offences committed within the district, which are punishable by +moderate corporal punishment, or fine and imprisonment. It is held by +a district judge (there being one in each district), sitting alone, +four times a year: his salary varies from 1000 to 3000 dollars a year. +An appeal lies from his decision in cases where, exclusive of costs, +the matter in dispute exceeds the sum or value of fifty dollars, to +the “circuit court,” possessing an original jurisdiction, civil and +criminal. The civil jurisdiction extends to all controversies between +citizens of different states, and between a citizen and an alien. All +offences against the penal laws of the United States, can be tried in +this court. It is also a court of equity. The circuit court is held +before the district judge, sitting twice a year with the judge of +the supreme court. An appeal lies from its decisions to the supreme +court of the United States, where the matter in dispute exceeds 2000 +dollars. In criminal cases, a point may be reserved for the opinion +of the judges of the supreme court, which is sent down to the circuit +court to be proceeded upon afterwards. In six of the states, Alabama, +Mississippi, Louisiana, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, there is no +circuit court, because the judges of the supreme court could not find +time to sit there twice a year; but the district courts possess the +powers and jurisdiction of a circuit court. + +The supreme court of the United States, is a very high and honourable +tribunal, composed of a chief justice, with a salary of 5000 dollars +(1125_l._), and six associate justices, with a salary of 4500 dollars +each, who hold a sitting once a year, at Washington, commencing on +the second Monday in January. The court sits five hours every day for +two months, deciding in that time usually about eighty causes, which +are reported as those of the law courts in England used, and ought +still to be, by an officer of the court. Its original jurisdiction +is confined to all such cases, affecting ambassadors, consuls, and +vice-consuls, as a court of law can exercise consistently with the law +of nations; and it has original, but not exclusive jurisdiction of all +suits brought by ambassadors, and other public ministers, in which a +consul or vice-consul is a party. But its dignity rests chiefly on its +appellate jurisdiction, which extends to all cases and appeals, and +writs of error from the circuit courts: likewise in all cases where the +constitution and laws of the federal government, or the construction of +any treaty entered into by the federal government, or its validity, or +any right or interest under a treaty, has been a subject of controversy +in the state tribunals. Its decisions and opinions on the construction +of the constitution, are the safeguard of the Union. But its appellate +jurisdiction is defined, and extends to no cases but where the power is +affirmatively given. In order to enable it to issue a mandamus, proof +is required that it is an exercise, or necessary to an exercise, of +its appellate jurisdiction. The supreme court has jurisdiction in all +controversies where the United States shall be a party in controversies +between two or more states; between a state and the citizens of another +state; between citizens of different states; between citizens of the +same state claiming lands under grants of different states; and between +a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens, or +subjects. A strict and admirable attention to justice, is observable +in these arrangements. Every description of case which might be +partially decided by the courts of the litigant states, is brought to +the bar of the great national tribunal to be disposed of. + +During the last sittings of the supreme court, a case of great +constitutional interest was heard before it. It was entitled “The +Cherokee Nation, _versus_ the State of Georgia.” The Cherokee +nation having been repeatedly harassed by the incursions and other +unneighbourly proceedings of the inhabitants of Georgia, applied to the +supreme court for an injunction to restrain the state, its governor, +and other officers, from executing and enforcing the laws of Georgia +within the Cherokee territory. The counsel for the Cherokees argued, +that not being a state of the Union, the Cherokee nation was to be +considered as a foreign state, and was rendered capable of suing in +the supreme court by virtue of the clause I have mentioned above, in +which the judicial power of the court is extended to controversies +between a state and the citizens thereof, and foreign states’ citizens +or subjects: but Chief Justice Marshall decided, that the relation of +the Cherokees to the United States resembled that of guardian and ward; +that they could not be considered either as a foreign state, or as a +state of the Union; and that therefore they were rendered incapable +of suing in that court. His judgment was strengthened by the wording +of the articles of the constitution, in which Congress is empowered +to regulate commerce with foreign nations, and the several states and +the “Indian tribes,” who being in this manner specifically mentioned, +could not have been considered as a foreign state or nation by the +original framers of the constitution. Imagine the astonishment of the +poor Cherokees upon being told, that the highest tribunal at the city +of their Great Father could afford them no redress. The affair will, of +course, come before congress. Chief Justice Marshall decided according +to the letter of the constitution; but the opinion of Chancellor +Kent, of New York, is surely deserving of the greatest attention, as +containing an exposition apparently more agreeable to justice. He +considers the Indian tribes “not only as states, but as foreign states, +because they do not constitute any ingredient or essential part of our +own body politic.” He considers the clause just referred to, may have +contained the additional grant of power to regulate commerce with the +“Indian tribes” out of abundant caution, and to prevent any possible +doubt of the application to them of the power to regulate commerce +with “foreign nations.” The last words, he apprehends, would have +reached the Indians; but the constitution, in several other instances, +has gone into a like specification of powers which were, by necessary +implication, included in the more general grant. Thus, for instance, +power is given to congress “to declare war,” and it is immediately +subjoined “to grant letters of marque and reprisal.” They have power +to “coin money,” and “to regulate the value thereof:” they have power +“to raise armies,” and “to provide and maintain a navy:” and it is +immediately subjoined “to make rules for the government” (and not +government only, but it is added) “and regulation of the army and land +force.” + +All the judges in the American courts enjoy an immunity from wigs, and +the judges of the supreme court alone are clothed in “silk attire.” +Their robes are black, and fashioned according to the taste of the +wearer. I examined four or five of them which were hanging up in the +court, and found that although perfectly judicial, they displayed +no small attention to taste in their cut and general appearance. A +proper degree of dignity is required and observed in the supreme +court; business is there conducted as it ought to be in every court +of justice; but some of the state courts are remarkably deficient in +this respect: even in the court-house at Philadelphia, during the +sitting of the circuit court, I have seen a gentleman, a counsellor of +eminence, coolly seat himself on the table whilst a judgment was being +given, and in that attitude I have heard him address some interlocutory +observations to the court, and press them upon its attention with +great earnestness and ability. I cannot understand why more dignity, +both judicial and forensic, should not be observed in the courts +of the United States. I have often been in the company of American +lawyers, who, as individuals, were men of gentlemanly manners, and +excellent general information, which they have ever evinced a readiness +to impart; but I do not remember one who ever mentioned the subject +at all, without admitting that a proper want of the respect due to +the time and the place is frequently but too visible in the American +courts; and yet there is no improvement. + +Silence, being indispensable, is well preserved; but counsel and +attorneys may be occasionally seen with their legs dangling over the +back of a chair, or possibly resting on the table. A corresponding +carelessness of manner is of course exhibited by the spectators. I +have even observed persons with their hats on in court, and upon +inquiry have been told they were Quakers; but once or twice I remember +having taken the liberty of doubting the information. I hope I shall +not be supposed to mean, that no greater decorum is observed in the +principal courts of the larger cities than in those held at places +of minor importance; I am speaking of them generally as I found them +when in travelling. I happened to arrive at some place where a court +was sitting, and “just dropped in” for half an hour _en passant_; but +still there is always a something even in the best of them which, to an +English eye, appears undignified and indecorous; although there can be +no doubt that their appearance is not mended by the total absence of +wigs and gowns from all of them. + +The spirit of equality renders it allowable, and the impossibility +in distant towns of making the profession answer by any other +arrangement, renders it necessary, that a barrister and solicitor +should frequently commence business as partners, and play into each +other’s hands. A judge will frequently travel from town to town +unattended, in his gig, or on horseback, with his saddle-bags before +him, or in the stage-coach, and dine at the village table d’hôte with +shopkeepers, pseudo majors, and advertising attorneys. Human nature +will out. In the absence of other titles, it is the pleasure of the +Americans that they should be dignified by the rank of General, +Colonel, or Aide-de-camp; but more especially I found by that of Major. +An English gentleman assured me that, being on board a steamer on the +Ohio river, he was first introduced by a friend as plain Mr., then as +Captain; soon after he was addressed as Major, and before the end of +the day he was formally introduced as a General. There is usually +a Major, or an Aide, as they call themselves, in every stage-coach +company. The captain of a steam-boat, who was presiding at the dinner +table, happened to ask rather loudly, “General, a little fish!” and +was immediately answered in the affirmative by twenty-five out of the +thirty gentlemen who were present. + +One would have imagined, that in the United States, where an equal +partition of the rights of mankind is the boasted foundation of the +government, Justice would have been treated with peculiar courtesy; +but she is not properly honoured there. Justice is not exclusively a +republican in principle, whatever the Americans may think. She must +remain unaltered, whatever may be the form of government, as the value +of the diamond is the same whether its possessor be a prince or a +peasant. During my occasional visits to the courts of justice in the +United States, I could not help thinking how fortunate it was that +Justice was blind, and could not therefore be shocked by the want of +decorum I observed there. What was my surprise on entering the supreme +court in the capitol at Washington, to perceive her wooden figure with +the eyes unfilleted, and grasping the scales like a groceress! With +great deference, I would suggest that the whole of this unworthy group +should be removed. The day may arrive, as I have said before, when the +supreme court may be the means of saving the Union. + +Any suggestions recommendatory of an amendment or additional clause in +the constitution, emanate from the judges of this exalted tribunal. +When it is thought necessary that the constitution of any particular +state should be altered or amended, the legislature authorizes the +people to express their opinions as to whether they are or are not in +favour of calling a general convention. This is usually arranged at the +time of a general election. If there be a majority in favour of the +convention, the legislature then calls upon the people to elect persons +to serve as members or delegates, and it fixes the time of meeting. +If any amendments are made by the convention, they are submitted to +the people for their approval; and if a majority decide upon their +adoption, they forthwith become part of the constitution. + +When it is considered that the supreme court has a federal jurisdiction +extending over a union of twenty-four states, many of them as large +or larger than England, whose humble and individual importance are +increasing, and which are divided and subdivided by party, and by +conflicting and annually arising interests, and which are becoming +more and more democratic in every succeeding year, and consequently +more and more opposed to the spirit in which the constitution was +originally framed, some idea may be formed of the importance that is +attached to the decisions of this court, whose authorities, from first +to last, are intended as a safeguard to the Union. The independence +of this court, and, in fact, of all the federal judiciary, may be +termed the sheet anchor of the United States. Its power constitutes +their chief hope; the abuse of it is the only medium of tyranny, and +is therefore the principal source of apprehension. The judges of all +the federal courts hold their offices during good behaviour, and are +removable only by impeachment. It would reasonably be supposed that the +individual states would follow the example of the general government in +the appointment of their judges; but this is not the case. In seven of +the states they are elected for a term of years only; in Rhode Island +they are elected annually; in five of the states they are obliged to go +out of office at sixty, sixty-five, or seventy years of age. This law +in the enlightened state of New York has deprived it of the valuable +services of Chancellor Kent, the author of the admirable Commentaries +on the laws of America. There are many democrats who actually wish that +the judges of the supreme court should be elected for a term of years +only. This custom is notoriously productive of sufficient hardships in +some of the more remote states, where, on account of the smallness of +the salary, amounting to not more than two or three hundred pounds, the +bench is sometimes filled by young and inexperienced men, who are the +children of party, and whose decisions must be occasionally affected by +the hope of re-election. + +Entailed estates are but little known in the United States: in South +Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana, not at all. In many of the states +they are nothing in effect but an estate in fee; the limitation in +tail being of no value, except it be in special tail. But in all cases +estates tail may be barred by a simple deed of bargain and sale, and +which is, in fact, the almost universal assurance; lease and release +being but little known. In other respects the doctrine of the statutes +of uses is in full operation, excepting in the state of New York, where +it has been discontinued since the new code passed in 1829. + +The proceedings of the courts of equity are for the most part similar +to those practised in England. Many of the states have chancellors, +whose offices are held like those of the other judges. The state +of New York had just been obliged to appoint a vice-chancellor, on +account of the increase of business. The duties of the chancellor, +as far as they go, are the same as those of the lord chancellor of +England; but in many of the states the jurisdiction in bankruptcy or +insolvency is separate. The terms bankruptcy and insolvency are used +indiscriminately, although the distinction is of course generally known +and understood among lawyers. By the articles of the constitution, the +general government is enabled to pass uniform laws on the subject of +bankruptcy. No general bankrupt law has, however, been passed, although +such a measure has been often contemplated. In the United States a +proportion of the people, large beyond that of any other country, is +engaged more or less in traffic of some kind or other in the course of +the year, and the difficulty of coming to any equitable decision as +to who may or may not be considered a bankrupt, has been the reason +why no general law on the subject has been passed by the federal +congress. The states likewise have the power of passing bankrupt +laws; but they would only be productive of confusion, as they would +not be allowed to have the effect of rescinding a contract between +citizens of different states; the supreme court having decided that +a discharge under the bankrupt or insolvent laws of one state, could +not affect contracts made or to be executed in another. As a matter +of necessity, the states have insolvent laws of their own, which are +generally recognized and respected in all of them as far as they +conveniently can be. In some cases the person only, not the debt, +is released by them; in others, the debt is discharged, but future +acquisitions by gift, devise, or descent, are liable, though not the +produce of future industry. The whole law on the subject of bail in +the United States is much the same as that of England. A debtor to the +United States can only be released by obtaining a release under the +United States’ insolvent law. In order to be enabled to apply for a +release under the insolvent laws of any particular state, a debtor must +have resided in that state for a certain period, generally one year; +and on the surrender of all property (if he has any), he obtains a +discharge from prison, which is also a discharge from the debt itself, +and as a personal discharge, is respected throughout the Union; but +as a discharge from the debt, it often operates as such only in the +state that grants the discharge. Between citizens of the same state it +releases the debt as well as the person; between citizens of different +states, or between a citizen and a foreigner, or between foreigners, +the discharge depends on circumstances. If the suit be brought in the +courts of any particular state, and the party has been released by the +laws of that state, the debt is considered equally cancelled as if the +controversy had been between citizens of the same state. If the debtor +to the United States has applied for, and obtained the benefit of the +United States’ insolvent law, it can only be in cases where a judgment +has been obtained against him, and he has been taken in execution. He +must, however, remain in prison for thirty days, and surrender all his +property, which he must swear does not exceed thirty dollars, over and +above his necessary wearing apparel; for if he has property beyond that +amount, he cannot obtain the benefit of this law. By this discharge, +the person only is released, so that property subsequently obtained +from any source is responsible. In all other cases of discharge, under +the insolvent laws of individual states, before noticed, the person +or the debt are discharged (as mentioned above), but still with the +reservation, that all property acquired by descent, gift, or devise, +shall be subjected to execution, but not the future acquisitions of the +debtor by other means. + +Fugitive debtors from other countries can be sued and imprisoned only +as if they were citizens of America, that is, by exhibiting against +them a bailable cause of action. They must remain in prison, if taken +immediately on their arrival, until entitled by a residence in the +state (usually for one year) to apply for the benefit of the insolvent +laws. State citizenship is required only in a few of the states, the +more general law being, that they may be discharged after a year’s +residence in the state in which they happen to be sued, whether they +have become citizens or not. Foreigners become citizens of the United +States after five years’ residence. The acts of naturalization, the +last of which was passed in 1816, require that an oath be taken before +a state-court by a foreigner of good moral character three years before +his admission, of his intention to become a citizen, and to renounce +his native allegiance; and at the time of admission he must satisfy +the court, that he has resided five or six years, at least, within the +United States, and likewise take an oath to renounce and abjure his +native allegiance, and to support the constitution of the United States. + +America is in some respects, a laboratory for the rest of the world. +It is the fittest region for experiment. From the first of January, +1832, imprisonment for debt has ceased in the state of New York; the +fact is, there is so much more false capital in the United States than +in England, that a creditor is not often one dollar the richer for +having put his debtor into confinement. The example, if it succeed, +will probably soon be followed in Massachusetts, where there is a +strong party in favour of a similar experiment. Whilst I was in that +state, a meeting was held at Boston, to consider of its propriety; but +the united arguments of many speakers, tended to prove nothing more +than what was most probably acknowledged beforehand, by three-fourths +of those who heard them, and into which all that can be said on the +subject must ultimately resolve itself, namely, that the sufferings +of an innocent debtor are highly unjust, and much to be lamented; but +that it would be very objectionable to have no means of confining one +whose conduct had been fraudulent. By the constitution of the state +of Illinois, imprisonment for debt is disallowed, except in cases of +fraud, or the refusal of the debtor to deliver up his property for the +benefit of his creditors. + +The question as to the power of any court or officer to remove a child +from his parents on account of their misconduct, remains unsettled; +but if either of the parents were dead, and the survivor an unsuitable +person to take care of the child, application would be made to the +orphan’s court, which exists in every state. Its authority resembles +that of the lord chancellor in cases of infants being wards of court. +Wills, both of real and personal estate, are proved there; and all +executors and administrators pass their accounts in this court, from +whose decisions an appeal lies to the chancellor. All deeds are by +law required to be registered. Wills are proved and witnessed as in +England; and a similar law prevents a witness from taking a legacy. +A case of fraud used in obtaining a will, the only fraud of which +the English court of chancery does not take notice, is decided by the +chancellor in some states; in others, it is usual to send it, as in +England, to a jury. + +The whole law of mortgage is, generally speaking, much the same as in +England. + +The proceedings in a chancery suit, differ only in the pleadings being +a little more simple: a bill for instance, contains merely the stating +and interrogating parts, and the prayer. Witnesses are examined, as in +England, upon written interrogatories. The effect of an answer and the +mode of using it in court, are also similar. + +There is no such officer as an accountant-general. Masters in chancery +are known only in some of the states. Their duties are somewhat +similar; and matters are referred to any one of them whom the parties +may agree upon. In New York, I observed that “Mr. A. master in +chancery,” was almost as frequently to be seen on the door, as the +names of a counsellor and solicitor. In those states where there are +no masters in chancery, the court has a “Permanent Auditor,” who +discharges nearly all the duties assigned to the masters in England. + +The form of an action, the pleadings, and the method of obtaining +evidence, are essentially the same as those used in England, generally. +In some states the action of ejectment is unknown; in others, it +has merely undergone some modification. Real actions, such as writs +of right, writs of entry, are much used; the period of limitation +has, however, been altered from that of England. The English law +of prescription is acknowledged, with a very few necessarily +constitutional exceptions. The period of limitation allowed in an +action of assumpsit, also varies in different states; in some it is +three years, in others it is six, as in England. Where the action of +ejectment is in use, the period of limitation is in some states twenty +years, as in England; in others, seven years is thought sufficient. + +Juries are generally constituted as in England, with the exception of +special juries, which are never formed. + +Throughout the United States a counsellor is allowed to make a speech +for the prisoner, and act generally in his behalf, as in a civil cause. + +Every state in the Union has its rules for the admission of +counsellors, solicitors, and attorneys. They generally require that +a student shall have studied law with some counsellor for at least +three years. On application for an admission as an attorney, the +court usually appoints three gentlemen of the bar to examine into the +moral and legal qualifications of the applicant. If he be previously +and favourably known to them, the examination is almost nominal. If +he be unknown, or be known, but with unfavourable impressions, the +examination is proportionably more strict. When admitted as either +counsellor or solicitor, he can generally practise in both characters, +the distinction being nominal, excepting in the supreme court of the +United States, where no person can be counsellor and solicitor at +the same time. In the country particularly, it is usual for a lawyer +to assume the duties of attorney, conveyancer, proctor, solicitor, +and counsellor; but after having practised some time, he usually +confines himself to the practice of a counsellor only. A barrister +and solicitor are frequently partners: as I have before remarked, +it would be impossible for any practitioner to obtain a livelihood, +excepting in the larger towns, without exercising his abilities in +both capacities. For the “materiel” of a great part of the foregoing +remarks I am indebted to the kind and able assistance of a gentleman of +the Baltimore bar, and I have endeavoured that their accuracy should +not suffer under my pen. + +It would be tedious to enter into any detail of the different state +constitutions. It is sufficient to remark, that their affairs +are usually administered by a governor, a senate, and a house of +representatives. The executive authority is vested in the governor, +who has in some states the benefit of a council. In some states he +is elected for a period of four years, but more usually for two. +The legislature consists of a senate, and house of representatives: +both, or the latter, are usually elected annually; but sometimes for +a longer period, with modifications. In the state of Rhode Island, +whose government is founded on the provisions of the charter granted +to the colony by Charles the Second in 1663, and which is the only +state in the Union that has no written constitution; the governor, +senate, and judges are elected annually; the members of the house of +representatives are elected every six months, or semi-annually, as they +term it. In general, no other qualifications are required of voters but +those of colour, age, sex, and residence. In nearly all the states the +right of suffrage is enjoyed by free white citizens, who have resided +for one year in the state, and six months in the country. In some of +the states, colour is no bar. As to age, that of twenty-one years is +the usual requisition. Every voter must of course be a citizen of the +United States. + +Without entering at large upon the hackneyed subject of universal +suffrage, it may be sufficient to remark, that the intrinsic evils of +the system are more or less acknowledged by a very large proportion of +the better class of Americans, although they of course diminish in the +same ratio with the increase of virtue and intelligence; the objection +is not merely, that the uncultivated and the ignorant part of the +community should be allowed the unqualified right of suffrage; but it +lies in the corrupt influence to which it is open. Both the rich and +the poor man have rights to be protected; but it must be unreasonable, +that the wealthy and enlightened should be controlled by the needy. +The object of my charity goes to the poll; and not only exercises as +much political liberty as myself, but a great deal more; because the +poorer classes being the more numerous, the government is, in effect, +under their direction. If in addition to this it be considered, that +they must frequently vote in compliance with the wishes of a superior, +it follows, that the most corrupt, or the most successful at intrigue, +must enjoy the greatest share of political power. A person who does +not in such a country as America, gain some sort of qualification by +his industry is, surely, unworthy to be trusted with the right of +suffrage. I was informed that votes were very rarely bought with money, +and believed it; because where the voters and the candidates are so +numerous, the disbursements must be very large, and the difficulty of +concealment proportionately increased. They are rather commanded by +considerations of place; and it is very evident, that a person who +could be influenced by interest in one way, could easily be bribed in +another, were it not for the fear of detection. The system of treating +is common enough. “Why, Sir!” said an old woman to a gentleman of +South Carolina, my informant, “I guess Mr. A. is the fittest man +of the two, but t’other whiskies the best.” The influence of petty +demagogues is very great; there being usually two or three in every +village. Naturalized foreigners, as a body of voters, possess great +power in some places: in New York, where there are said to be nearly +30,000 Irish, their influence over the elections is much complained of. + +The house of representatives of the United States is composed of +members chosen every second year, by the people of the several states. +In Virginia and Kentucky they are voted for, _vivâ voce_, and not by +ballot, as in the other states. At present, one member is returned +for every forty thousand persons, five slaves in the slave states +counting as three whites. The present number is 216. As the number of +representatives might be too large, in consequence of the increasing +population, the constitution provides that the number should not +exceed one for every 30,000, but that no state shall be without a +representative. As the minimum only is there mentioned, the federal +congress has the power of extending the number of electors necessary +for the return of a member. + +The senate of the United States is composed of two members from each +state. They are chosen by the legislature of the several states, for +the term of six years; one-third of them being elected every two years. +The only qualifications necessary for a senator are—that he be thirty +years of age, in conformity with the age of the Roman senator; and that +he have been for nine years a citizen of the United States, and an +inhabitant of the state for which he is elected. + +The qualifications required of a member of the house of +representatives are—that he be twenty-five years of age; seven years a +citizen of the United States, and an inhabitant of the state where he +is chosen. No property qualification is required in either case; and +the consequence is, that the house of representatives is half filled +with young lawyers. The only privilege it enjoys in its legislative +character, which is not shared by the senate, is, that it has the +exclusive right of originating all money bills. + +Chancellor Kent, in his Commentaries, observes, “that the great +object of the separation of the legislature into two houses, acting +separately, and with co-ordinate powers, is to destroy the evil +effects of sudden and strong excitement; and of precipitate measures, +springing from passion, caprice, prejudice, personal influence, and +party intrigue, which have been found, by sad experience, to exercise +a potent and dangerous sway in single assemblies.” + +No one can, for a moment, doubt the force of these remarks. It is +the best arrangement that can be adopted in a republic: still it is +but splitting one pillar into two; the interests and inducements are +co-extensive. The senate of the United States and the British house of +lords are, or may be, equally influenced by the love of their country, +and both are intended for its protection; but the one is little more +than another house of representatives, the other a most essentially +distinct part of the government: both are bound by the ties of honour, +and the duties of both are defined and exacted by the constitution; but +those of the house of lords are dictated by the further necessity of +consulting their own security, by a proper and constant interposition +between the throne and the people. The interests of the one are the +same as those of the house of representatives, the only additional +power they enjoy consisting of an association with the president, for +the purpose of making treaties, and in the appointment of government +officers. The interests of the house of lords are identified with those +of the house of commons, not merely with reference to property up to an +extent usually far exceeding the amount of the qualifications necessary +for obtaining a seat in that house; but they purchase an additional +security to the constitution, by obliging the peers of Great Britain to +keep a watchful eye on every attempt at encroachment upon the dignity +of the crown, their own rank in the country, and their rights as +“hereditary lawgivers.” In these times, when speculation is afloat, not +as to what they will do, but as to what they dare do, how true should +they be to themselves. Their obligations are far more weighty than the +“legal presumption” (to use the words of Chancellor Kent, when speaking +of the senate with reference to the houses of representatives), “that +the senate will entertain more enlarged views of public policy, will +feel a higher and greater sense of national character, and a greater +regard for stability in the administration of the government.” + +The president of the United States must be a citizen of the United +States, must have attained the age of twenty-one years, and have been +fourteen years a resident in the United States. He holds his office +for four years. He is elected at the same time as the vice-president, +who is president of the senate, but who has no vote, unless the votes +be equally divided. The president, vice-president, and all civil +officers of the United States, are removed from office on impeachment +for, and conviction of, treason, bribery, or other high crimes and +misdemeanours. The president is commander-in-chief of the army and +navy: he has the power by, and with the advice and consent of the +senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators present +concur: he can convene both houses of congress, on extraordinary +occasions; and adjourn them in case of their disagreement as to the +time, to any time he may think proper: he appoints ambassadors, other +public ministers and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all +officers of the United States whose appointments are not otherwise +provided for by the constitution, and which shall be established by +law, &c. &c. The president and vice-president are elected by electors +appointed in each state equal to the whole number of senators and +representatives to which the state may be entitled to in congress; +but no senator, or representative, or person holding an office of +trust or profit under the United States, shall be appointed an +elector. The method of choosing these electors is threefold: by the +state-legislatures; by general-ticket; and by districts. The two latter +are more generally preferred, as the choice emanates more directly +from the people. Four only of the states,—Delaware, South Carolina, +Louisiana, and Tennessee, adopt the former. I think it would be tedious +and unnecessary to give an analysis of these three methods; suffice +it to remark, I have heard it regretted that the constitution did not +limit the choice to one mode. Chancellor Kent says “there would be +less opportunity for dangerous coalitions and combinations for party, +or ambitious or selfish purposes, if the choice of electors were +referred to the people at large; and this seems now to be the sense +and expression of public opinion.” When the electors have made out +the requisite lists, they are sent up to, and opened in the presence +of the senate and house of representatives; and the president and +vice-president are chosen in the manner prescribed by the twelfth +article of the amendments to the constitution. In the year 1801, the +federalist candidates for the presidency and vice-presidency were Mr. +Adams and General Pinkney; the republican favourites were Mr. Jefferson +and Colonel Barr. The two latter obtained a small, but equal majority +over the former; and to decide between them was the allotted office +of the house of representatives. Mr. Jefferson was chosen after no +less than thirty-five trials. In the mean time the people were kept in +suspense; the tranquillity of the Union was endangered; the possibility +of a recurrence of similar difficulties was forcibly impressed upon +the minds of Americans; and an alteration of the clause regulating +the mode of election of the president and vice-president was resolved +upon. The old clause contained these words, “The person having the +greatest number of votes to be president, if such number be a majority +of the whole number of electors appointed; and if there be more than +one who have such majority, and have an equal number of votes, then +the house of representatives shall immediately choose by ballot one +of them for a president, &c.” The mode of election was altered; but +it may still happen that the vote of a single member of the house +of representatives may decide it. In President Jackson’s Message of +December, 1830, he says, that “the necessity for an amendment is made +so clear to his mind by the observation of its evils, and by the many +able discussions which they have elicited on the floor of congress, +and elsewhere, that he should be wanting in his duty were he to +withhold another expression of his deep solicitude on the subject. A +contingency which sometimes places it in the power of a single member +of the house of representatives to decide an election of so high and +solemn a character, is unjust to the people; and becomes, when it +occurs, a source of embarrassment to the individuals thus brought into +power, and a cause of distrust of the representative body. Liable +as the confederacy is, from its great extent, to parties founded +upon sectional interests, and to a corresponding multiplication of +candidates for the presidency, the tendency of the constitutional +reference to the house of representatives is to devolve the election +upon that body, in almost every instance; and whatever choice may +thus be made among the candidates thus presented to them, to swell +the influence of particular interests to a degree inconsistent with +the general good.” The election of the president, immediately by the +people, without the intervention of electors, is here hinted at. There +is a levelling spirit abroad in the United States, that sheds its +influence over new laws and institutions: if there be a possibility of +a tendency towards either the federal or the democratical principles, +that tendency is sure to be democratical; and it is by no means +improbable, that such a mode of election may, at some future day, be +contended for and adopted. Chancellor Kent says, “that the mode of +appointment of the president, presented one of the most difficult and +momentous questions that could have occupied the deliberations of the +assembly which framed the constitution; and if ever the tranquillity +of this nation is to be disturbed, and its peace jeopardised by a +struggle for power among themselves, it will be upon this very subject +of the choice of a president. It is the question that is eventually +to attest the goodness and try the strength of the constitution, &c.” +Should the mode of election be altered, as I have just supposed it +may be, we may bid adieu to the Union forthwith. When we consider the +increasing population of the United States, the immense variety of +interests, and that every free inhabitant feels, I may say, personally +concerned,—whether he be really so or not,—in the success of his +favourite candidate, we can, in some measure, foresee even under the +present mode of election, how violent, how convulsing, at no very +distant period, will be the struggle and party-feeling exhibited at +the election of an officer, whose opinions on the construction of the +articles of the constitution, during his short ascendancy of four +years, will affect millions with a sentiment of attachment or disgust. +When General Jackson came into office, he immediately thought proper +to turn out several hundred subordinate officers, whose places were +filled up by his own party. The number of those who lost their places +at the commencement of any preceding presidency was extremely small, +bearing no proportion whatever to those dismissed by the General. The +increasing weight and importance of the affairs of the United States +rendered it partly a matter of expediency to do so; and, in all human +probability, future presidents will find themselves obliged to follow +the example. I make no remark on the late petticoat confusion in the +United States’ cabinet; like the battle of Navarino, the best that can +be said of it is, that it was an “untoward event.” + +The salary of the president is 25,000 dollars (5625_l._) a year, with +the president’s house at Washington for his residence; but his expenses +do not equal his income. Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president, receives but +5000 dollars (1125_l._) a year. The secretaries for state, treasury, +war, and navy, and the postmaster-general, receive a yearly salary of +6000 dollars (1350_l._) each, and work very hard for it, their time and +attention being fully occupied, and often till a late hour of the night. + +In the Message of 1830, to which I have before referred, General +Jackson invites the attention of congress to the propriety of promoting +such an amendment of the constitution as will render the president +ineligible after one term of service; and yet General Jackson is again +a candidate, and most probably a successful candidate, for the office +of president at the next election, on the first Wednesday in December, +1832, preparatory to his taking office for the twelfth presidential +term of four years, commencing on the 3d of March, 1833. + +The election of the next—and heaven knows how many future +presidents!—will depend upon the known opinions of either candidate +upon “the Cherokee case;” upon the question of the renewal of the +charter of the United States’ Bank, to which I have before adverted; +on Masonry; on whether there is or is not a power granted by the +constitution to lay out the federal funds upon internal improvements +throughout the Union; and lastly, on the still more important question +as to the continuance or modification of the existing tariff. The +candidates will most likely be General Jackson, the president of the +day, Mr. Clay, Mr. Wirt, and Mr. Calhoun. + +The opinions of General Jackson are in favour of the removal of the +Cherokees: he is averse to the renewal of the charter of the United +States’ Bank: he is a Freemason, and believes that the application of +the federal funds to internal improvements would be unconstitutional. +His opinions on the tariff question are oracular and uncertain. + +Mr. Clay is opposed to the removal of the Cherokees; he is in favour +of the renewal of the Bank charter; he is a Mason; is an advocate for +internal improvements; and a staunch friend to the protecting, or, as +it is called by its supporters, the American system. + +Mr. Wirt, a gentleman of Maryland, was the counsel for the Cherokees +before the supreme court. He has lately been started as a candidate by +the Anti-masons. Since the abduction and supposed murder of William +Morgan, who, a few years since, wrote a book revealing the secrets +of Freemasonry, the Anti-masons have become gradually more and more +numerous. They profess a hatred of all secret societies as dangerous +and unconstitutional; and although they will not be able to secure the +presidency to themselves, yet it is probable they will be sufficiently +strong to defeat the election of either of the more obnoxious +candidates. Mr. Wirt’s opinions are supposed to coincide with those +of Mr. Clay generally; but with respect to the internal improvement +system, and the tariff question, he is at present uncommitted. + +Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president of the day, is the great champion +of the interests of the southern states, the nullifiers, and the +anti-tariff party; and in that character, if at all, he will be elected +to the presidency. His opinions are in favour of the removal of the +Cherokees, and of the existence of the United States’ Bank. On the +subject of internal improvements his opinions are said to be changed, +he having been originally an advocate of the system when secretary +at war in 1819. He is a “Nullifier,” although his situation as +vice-president has prevented him from showing himself in that character +so uniformly as he would have done. The term “nullifier,” which, like +the word “radical” in England, has now grown into common use, was first +adopted by the members from South Carolina, in congress, about two +years ago; the doctrine they profess was broached at the same time. A +nullifier is a person who holds that the federal constitution is merely +a compact or league between the several states; and that each state has +a right to decide for itself concerning the infractions of that league +by the federal government, and to nullify or declare void an act of the +federal congress within its limits. + +Whatever may be urged by the party who are opposed to the opinions of +General Jackson, with reference to the advancement of prosperity in the +United States by his internal policy merely, his administrations of +the affairs of his country with regard to its relations with foreign +powers, has certainly been generally successful. He has obtained for +her the command of a profitable trade with the British West Indian and +North American colonies, thereby settling a question which had already +been the subject of six negociations. The president, in his Message, +at the second sitting of congress, on the 7th of December, 1830, says, +that this desirable result was promoted by the liberal provision of +congress, in allowing the ports of the United States to be open to +British shipping before the arrangement could be carried into effect +on the part of Great Britain, thereby requiting a similar act of +liberality on the part of the British government in 1825. + +He has recovered claims upon the Brazils, Columbia, and Denmark, from +which kingdom the payment of 650,000 dollars is secured to the citizens +of the United States, for spoliations upon their commerce in the years +1808, 9, 10, and 11. Similar claims upon France, for injuries during +the war, have also been lately adjusted with that power. + +He has concluded a treaty of commerce with Mexico; and by another with +Columbia, he has freed the American merchants from the discriminating +duties which had been imposed upon them; and by another with Turkey +he has secured a free passage for American merchantmen, without +limitation of time, to and from the Black Sea, by which their trade +with Turkey is placed on an equal footing with that of other nations. + +By a compact made between the United States and the state of Georgia, +on the 24th of April, 1802, and long before any gold mines were thought +of, the United States engaged to extinguish for the use of Georgia, +“as early as the same could be peaceably obtained on reasonable terms, +the Indian title to the county of Talassee, and to all the other lands +within the state of Georgia.” As gold mines, within two or three years, +have been discovered in that state, it has naturally followed, that the +inclination of the Indians to remain, and that of the Georgians to get +rid of them, has become far more decided than formerly. The Indians +(Cherokees) however, claim a voice in the affair of their removal +from the land of their fathers; and that their assertions have other +foundations than those of an appeal to common justice and humanity, is +proved by the fact, that from the 28th of November, 1785, the general +government has made with them no less than fifteen different treaties, +thereby plainly acknowledging their independence, and their capacity +and power to treat. Within the last two or three years, however, gold, +as I have before remarked, has been discovered on the territories +of the Indians; and the state of Georgia has applied to the general +government to fulfil the contract, and rid them of the Cherokees. The +general government would be willing to come to a proper arrangement +with the Cherokees, but they are unwilling to go. The number now left +is about 15,000; the remainder of the tribe, since the year 1809, +having acceded to the offer of the United States, and removed to the +lands provided for them beyond the Mississippi. When this part of the +tribe petitioned to be allowed to remove, the answer of the president +(Mr. Madison) contained the words, “those who are willing to remove may +be assured of our patronage, our aid, and our good neighbourhood.” The +Georgians, however, happen to think that this is just the time for them +to go, and they forcibly prevent them from digging for gold on their +own land, saying, that every year will but increase their anxiety to +remain; and that they have no right to dig for gold when the reversion +of the land is in the state. These disputes yet remain unsettled. + +The Cherokees are far advanced in civilization; and have among them +men of very superior abilities. They adopt in part the costume of +Europeans; they have schools, and churches, and a printing press +among them; and were fully competent to understand the following +precious piece of humbug, forming part of President Jackson’s message +to congress, in 1830. “Humanity has often wept over the fate of the +aborigines of this country; and philanthropy has been long busily +employed in devising means to avert it; but its progress has never +for a moment been arrested, and one by one have many powerful tribes +disappeared from the earth. To follow to the tomb the last of this +race, and to tread on the graves of extinct nations, excites melancholy +reflections. But true philanthropy reconciles the mind to these +vicissitudes, as it does to the extinction of one generation to make +room for another. In the monuments and fortresses of an unknown people +spread over the extensive regions of the west, we behold the memorials +of a once powerful race, which was exterminated, or has disappeared, +to make room for the existing savage tribes, &c. &c. The tribes which +occupied the countries now constituting the eastern states, were +annihilated or have melted away to make room for the whites. The waves +of population and civilization are rolling to the westward; and we +now propose to acquire the countries occupied by the red men of the +south and west, by a fair exchange, and at the expense of the United +States, to send them to a land where their existence may be prolonged +and perhaps made perpetual. Doubtless it will be painful to leave the +graves of their fathers; but what do they more than our ancestors +did, or than our children are now doing? To better their condition +in unknown lands, our forefathers left all that was dear in earthly +objects; our children by thousands yearly leave the land of their +birth to seek new homes in distant regions. Does humanity weep at +these painful separations from every thing animate and inanimate with +which the young heart has become entwined? Far from it! It is rather a +source of joy that our country affords scope where our young population +may range unconstrained in body or in mind, developing the power and +faculties of man in their highest perfection. These remove hundreds +and almost thousands of miles at their own expense, purchase the lands +they occupy, and support themselves at their new home from the moment +of their arrival. Can it be cruel in this government, when, by events +which it cannot control, the Indian is made discontented with his +ancient home, to purchase his lands, to give him a new and extensive +territory, to pay the expenses of his removal, and support him a year +in his new abode? How many thousands of our own people would gladly +embrace the opportunity of removing to the west on such conditions. If +the offers made to the Indians were extended to them, they would be +hailed with gratitude and joy. + +“And is it supposed that the wandering savage has a stronger attachment +to his home than the settled, civilized Christian? Is it more +afflicting to him to leave the graves of his fathers, than it is to our +brothers and children? Rightly considered, the policy of the general +government towards the red man, is not only liberal but generous. He +is unwilling to submit to the laws of the states, and to mingle with +their population. To save him from this alternative, or, perhaps, utter +annihilation, the general government kindly offers him a new home; and +proposes to pay the whole expense of his removal and settlement.” + +I will here introduce a few remarks on what is called the gold region +in the United States, with the kind assistance of Mr. Damm, a Swedish +gentleman resident at New York, and connected with the gold mines. I +have selected them, with a very few alterations, from the reports on +the subject lately published by the government. It is now about thirty +years since gold was discovered in North Carolina; it was found in the +sand and gravel of different water-courses, first in Cabarras county, +soon afterwards in a county of Montgomery in that state. Until within +a few years past, the process of washing for gold was principally +confined to the two counties just named. The greater portion of the +gold thus procured was found in small pieces, varying in size from one +pennyweight down to particles of extreme minuteness; at most of the +mines, however, it is not uncommon to find pieces of a much larger +size; for example, at Cabarras, a single piece has been found weighing +twenty-eight pounds avoirdupois, besides several other pieces varying +from four to sixteen pounds. The proprietor of the same mine affirms, +that about a hundred pounds avoirdupois have been found in pieces, +about one pound in weight; these large pieces, however, compose but a +small portion of the whole product of the mines. + +At a mine in Montgomery county, a number of pieces of about one pound +weight have been found. One of them weighed four pounds eleven ounces, +and another three pounds. In Anson county, during the summer of 1828, +a piece of gold weighing ten pounds, another of four pounds weight, +together with a number of small pieces, were taken up out of the sands +and gravel of Richardson’s creek. These discoveries have been chiefly +made in or near beds of streams; but in some instances deposits of +considerable extent have been found on the sides and tops of hills. + +It was not, however, until about six years ago, that the gold mines, +properly speaking, were discovered in North Carolina, that is, gold +in regular, well-defined veins. This discovery, like that of the +alluvial deposits, was in some measure accidental. A person, while +washing the sand and gravel of a small rivulet for gold in Montgomery +county, observed that he could never find it beyond a certain spot in +ascending the stream; but at the point where the gold seemed to cease, +he discovered a quartz vein running into the hill on one side of the +channel, and at right angles with the course of the rivulet. Having +frequently taken up out of the bed of the stream, pieces of quartz with +bits of gold attached to them, he came to the conclusion that the gold +found scattered below, must have come out of the vein of quartz; and +he determined to pursue it into the hill. He had done so but for a few +feet, when he struck a beautiful deposit of the metal in a matrix of +quartz, and subsequently another in carbonate of lime. In following +this vein about thirty or forty feet longitudinally, and at a depth of +not more than fifteen or eighteen feet, he found a succession of what +are technically termed nests, from which he took out more than 15,000 +dwt. of virgin gold. Soon afterwards the mine fell into other hands; +and the working of the vein has been discontinued in consequence of the +quantity of water which made its appearance; though it is understood +that it will be resumed in a short time. This discovery of the metal in +regular veins, presented the subject in a new and interesting point of +view; and directed a search for gold among the hills and high grounds, +and particularly for veins traversing the earth. + +In the course of the summer, after the developement of Barringer’s +mine, some valuable mines were discovered in Mecklenburgh county. +The product of these, worked in the rudest manner, without skill or +capital, was so great as to excite general notice; and stimulated the +land-owners in that section to search for these hidden treasures. The +mines now began to attract the attention of the public; and several +persons of enterprise, and some capital, repaired to the spot. Some +of them made investments, began to erect machinery, and worked the +veins with system and regularity. The success of the first adventurers +in this new enterprise, and for a time the attention of every body +who sought to engage in the mining business, was exclusively turned +towards Mecklenburgh county. The consequence was, a constant search +for gold was kept up in that county, and not unattended with success, +as many very promising veins were discovered. These Mecklenburgh mines +were the first that attracted attention; and the first that were +examined and worked with skill and management. They were, of course, +greatly in advance of every other part of the region, and the products +have been greater in proportion to the labour, and capital, and skill +that have been applied to them. + +In the course of the succeeding year, a very extensive and rich vein +was discovered in Guilford county; and it was soon operated upon by +more than one hundred hands, who flocked in from the country around, +and received permission to dig there. The discovery of one vein in +a district, furnishes the means of finding others. The people of +the neighbourhood visit it, examine the appearances of the ores, and +other signs and indications, and thus in some degree are qualified to +make a search on their own lands or elsewhere. This was the case in +Guilford county; the discovery of the first vein was soon followed by +the opening of several others. The same plan will be followed in every +district, until the gold region be explored, and the places which +exhibit any external signs of gold be thoroughly known. About this time +Cabarras county, which had hitherto been only considered as productive +in its washings, was ascertained to be a vein-mining district; and +discoveries to the same effect were made about the same period at +Lincoln. + +It is less than two years and a half ago, since gold in veins was +first discovered in Davidson county; it having previously been found +only in and near the beds of rivulets and creeks. Within the last few +months, veins have been opened in the adjoining county of Randolph. +Rowan, situated between Davidson and Cabarras counties, embraces a +considerable section of the gold region, and contains many veins whose +external appearance is good and promising. The metal is also found in +the streams: some few veins have also been opened in Tredell county, +and are now in a course of developement. + +While progress had been thus making in opening veins, and in +ascertaining their situations, some valuable discoveries of stream +deposits occurred in a section of the state of North Carolina, hitherto +not suspected to be within the range of the gold region. In Burke +county, one of the most mountainous of the state, and one, two, or more +feet under the surface, a layer of sand and gravel is found, varying +from a few inches, sometimes to more than a foot, in thickness; in +this layer the virgin gold is found, generally in small particles +about the size of a pin’s head, and very often as large as a grain of +corn; it is separated, and collected from the accompanying matter, by +washing. Water is abundant; and the absence of clay and adhesive matter +in the auriferous layer, makes the process of washing exceedingly +easy. A number of these deposits have already been found, and some of +them have proved to be very productive. It may be here mentioned, that +in the adjoining county of Rutherford, gold in deposit has also been +found; but as yet, not much labour has been expended in that quarter. +One vein, which is very encouraging, has been worked regularly; another +vein of good expectations has been discovered. + +In short the veins and places of deposit are very numerous, and +scattered over the whole country, with a few exceptions; and the gold +which is produced finds a market so readily, that it is difficult to +give a very correct estimate of the product of mines of the Carolinas, +Virginia, and Georgia; but it was said to amount to 500,000 dollars in +1830, from North Carolina alone. During that year, nearly the whole +gold coinage of the United States’ mint, was from native gold. The +coinage was 643,105 dollars in gold coin: of this, 125,000 was derived +from Mexico, South America, and the West Indies; 19,000 from Africa, +466,000 from the gold region of the United States, and about 33,000 +from sources not ascertained. Of the gold of the United States above +mentioned, 24,000 may be stated to have come from Virginia, 204,000 +from North Carolina, 26,000 from South Carolina, and 212,000 from +Georgia. + +It may not be out of place here to remark, that hereafter the quantity +of domestic gold that will be received at the mint, will bear a +less proportion to the whole amount found, than has been the case +heretofore; the reason is this: hitherto, Philadelphia may be said +to have been nearly the only market for the article; goldsmiths and +merchants at New York, and other cities in the Union, were unacquainted +with it; and therefore for fear of deception, dealt but little in +it; this occasioned the greater part of the gold to be taken to +Philadelphia, where, if not sold to the goldsmiths or merchants, it was +deposited in the mint; so that at all events a portion of it always +contrived to reach that establishment. But now the case is different: +a market for the gold is opening in most of the cities of the United +States; goldsmiths and jewellers, having ascertained its comparative +purity, which is said to be greater than that of the gold of Mexico or +the Brazils, will generally become purchasers for their own use. + +That there will be an increase in the products of the mines every +succeeding year, admits of very little doubt, when the gradual +enlargement of the gold region, extending through Virginia, North +and South Carolina, and Georgia—the number of persons turning their +attention to the business—the mills that are now erecting in various +places—the improvements in the mode of working and general management, +are made the subject of consideration. + +The improvements in machinery have been considerable within the last +two years: it is believed, however, that as yet they are far from being +perfect. The defects in the present mode of extracting the gold are +well known to those most extensively engaged in the business; and some +of the miners, even at this time, are turning their attention towards +the introduction of other methods, promising more economy and greater +results. Grinding the ore in water with the vertical stone, which +is the method practised in Chili, is now the process most generally +used; but the liabilities of the vertical, or Chilian mill, to become +disordered—the waste of gold and quicksilver—the irregularity of +results from the same ores—the want of proper checks on the workmen, +together with minor objections, will probably, in a few years more, +cause these mills to be in a great measure discontinued, except in +small establishments, and for certain classes of ores in the larger +ones. + +The auriferous veins of North Carolina and Virginia have not yet been +sufficiently developed. As yet not a single shaft in the whole range +of country (except at the Charlotte Mine, near a small town of that +name, worked under the direction of the Chevalier de Rivafinoli) has +been carried down to the depth of a hundred feet. Seventy to eighty +feet is the greatest depth yet attained; and thirty feet is more +than an average on the main excavation: as far, however, as these +experiments have gone, they furnish no reason to doubt the durability +of the mines; for thus far, the well-defined veins not only retain +their first size, but, in many cases, become larger, and more often +than otherwise, improve in richness. This circumstance has given rise +to an idea among the common workmen, that the vein grows richer about +the time it reaches water. On the whole, when it is considered, that +in Mexico, Saxony, and other great mining districts, veins have been +successfully followed downwards more than 2500 feet; the probability +that the veins in the United States will improve, is, at least, as +great as that they will become poorer. + +Nor is it in the nature of things, that any considerable portion of +the whole number of veins existing there, much less all of them, have +already been discovered. + +The usual way that discoveries are made, is to take some of the earth +or gravel lying on the top of the rocks, and wash it in an iron pan. +If any fine particles of gold are found, the vein is known to be +auriferous, and its degree of richness and value is judged of by a +variety of circumstances. This fine gold without doubt comes out of the +vein, the top of which had been disintegrated, and fallen to pieces. +There are many bold veins in every district, the tops of which show no +gold, whilst other indicating substances are abundant. The probability +is, that some of them at a greater depth may prove highly auriferous. + +Reviewing all that has been said on the subject, it will be seen that +the whole business is yet in its infancy; and the only cause for wonder +is, that so much has been done in so short a time. Ignorance and +prejudice were to be overcome, and ridicule was liberally bestowed on +the few who engaged in the business. + +If the work proceed as rapidly for some years to come, as it has +for the three years past, the changes in the appearance of things +will become very striking. There are some persons of intelligence, +mostly however at a distance, who seem to apprehend that the mines +of the United States will produce consequences similar to those that +followed to Spain and her colonies from the discovery of the mines of +South America and Mexico. Without stopping to inquire how far these +consequences were occasioned by the mines of the New World, it may be +remarked with truth, that no sort of analogy is to be found in the +condition and circumstances of the two countries; and that neither the +statesman nor the philosopher need anticipate that the results will be +similar. + +That great effects will be produced is beyond question: and these will +show themselves in the increasing prosperity of the country. Among the +advantages that will follow from the developement of the mines, is +the encouragement they give to agriculture, in the withdrawal of some +of its surplus labour, and giving it new employment. They will create +home markets for the surplus products of the farmer; and this will +encourage him to improve his farm, and increase the productiveness of +his lands. As yet, this influence has not been much felt; but a close +observer may see that the improvement has commenced, though it will not +be generally perceptible until the division of labour more fully takes +place between the farmer and the miner. Mining and farming are two very +different pursuits; and farmers will soon see that it is prudent for +them to stick to the plough, and sell or let the auriferous veins to +the miner. + +An important change will also take place (at a very distant period) +in the staples of the gold country; cotton will be less and less +cultivated in the mining districts; while the bread stuff, farinaceous, +succulent vegetables—and stock, will claim the chief attention. This +change in the staples of the agriculturist, will in itself produce +important results. The opening of the mines, and the prospect of +profitable employment, will in some degree check that spirit of +emigration which has been carrying off so many enterprising and useful +citizens, and will bring into the country men of wealth intelligence, +business habits, and general enterprise. + +The opening of the mines has been attended with one primary and +bad effect; that of creating a mania for speculation. The usually +attendant failures and mishaps will co-operate with other causes, to +throw the mines into the hands of a distinct class of men, who, having +a knowledge of the business, and having capital at command, will +eventually conduct all the mining operations in the country. + +Whether the effects be good or bad, their influence will not be +confined to North Carolina. It will be felt in Virginia, South +Carolina, and Georgia,—the people in the upper parts of these states +having far more interest in the mines than is generally supposed. + +When the cheapness of obtaining the timber necessary for machinery, +the certainty of labour, and the security of property under such a +government as that of the United States, are deeply considered; these +mines might be far more worth the attention of an English company +than many a scheme in which English capital is already embarked. +Applications to government for charters will most probably be more +numerous in every succeeding year. The capital required to form a +company would not, I was informed, exceed 40,000_l_. or 50,000_l_. + + * * * * * + +No one can visit the United States without hearing of President +Jackson’s celebrated “veto” on internal improvements, and every +disinterested individual would, I humbly think, be ready to admit +that the sentiments it contains are just and valuable, because they +display a solid attachment to the letter of the constitution. By the +articles of the constitution, the powers of the federal government, +with reference to its expenditure of the national funds upon internal +improvements in the Union, are confined to the establishment of +post-offices and post-roads. On the 27th May, 1830, in the firm +persuasion that the words ‘post-roads’ could apply only to those which +might prove of general benefit to the citizens of the Union, and not +to those which conferred an advantage only upon the inhabitants of any +particular state, a bill entitled “An Act authorising a subscription +of stock in the Maysville, Washington, Paris, and Lexington turnpike +road Company,” was returned by the President to the house of +representatives, without having received his signature. In the veto +by which it was accompanied, he shows that “grants for internal +improvements from the national treasury, have been made professedly +under the control of the general principle, that the works which might +be thus aided should be of a general, not local—national, not state +character; and that a disregard of this distinction would of necessity +lead to the subversion of the federal system. The road in question had +no regard to any general system of improvements, and was exclusively +without the limits of the state; starting at a point on the Ohio +river, and running out sixty miles to an interior town, and even as +far as that state was concerned, of partial, not general advantage.” +In another part of the veto he adds, “that if it be the desire of the +people, that the agency of the federal government should be confined +to the appropriation of money in aid of such undertakings in virtue +of state authority; then the occasion, the manner, and the extent +of the appropriations, should be made the subject of constitutional +regulation.” In about three years, the national debt of the United +States will be paid off, and the government will find itself in +possession of a surplus revenue of ten or twelve millions of dollars. +To divide it amongst the states, will be unconstitutional, because +it will render the states too dependent on the favour of the federal +government; and as it is collected chiefly by means of the tariff, it +cannot cease to exist so long as the tariff remains in force. + +Without a limited and defining authority, arising from a constitutional +adjustment of this power of distribution upon equitable principles, it +is beyond a doubt that neither Mr. Clay, nor any other person who may +be president, could give any thing like universal satisfaction amid the +“scramble for appropriations,”—as the veto has it,—which could not but +ensue upon the conflicting and uncontrollable variety of interest that +is annually increasing in the American community. + + * * * * * + +The progress of reform in England, and in Europe generally, is watched +with the most intense interest by the Americans. A deep feeling of +regard and sympathy for the mother country, as they term it, is still +general, and I think increasing; and though most of the Americans +believe their own country is the first in the world, they are still +reasonable enough to assign to Great Britain the second place in the +scale of nations. Those airs which it must be admitted so frequently +render an Englishman ridiculous, when travelling on the old continent, +would be entirely thrown away in the United States. All pretentions +to importance are disregarded, even without being canvassed, as +they might be in Europe; but so long as an Englishman behaves with +propriety, the Americans will entertain more respect for his name and +character, than they care to avow openly. They wish us well through +our troubles, and watch with sincere pity what they consider to be the +approaching downfal of our constitution: but at the same time their +national vanity receives something very like gratification from the +belief, that we shall be forced to adopt a form of government similar +to their own. That the American form of government is admirably adapted +to a new country, that that country has astonishing resources, and +that the Americans lose no time in making the most of them, (I speak +of America as a country, not of the Union, for America must thrive +come what will to the government) that it has thriven under its +institutions, and is at present enjoying an exemption from many evils +incidental to older countries, it would be an absurdity to deny. But +the natural causes of prosperity which the Americans so pre-eminently +enjoy, must not be mistaken, as they most fondly and frequently are, +for the positive effects, and little more than the positive effects, of +a good government, however good and well adapted that government may +be. The American constitution has never been tried. That it was nearly +a bankrupt at the close of the last war, was a trial of the resources +of the country, not of its institutions. Forty years is no time to +test the strength of a government like that of the United States, +when civilization is extended over so small a proportion of them. The +good is perceived at present; the evils are latent, and comparatively +little felt. But there are among the institutions of the Union, the +seeds of discord and confusion, whose growth is only stifled by the +bustle of commercial pursuits, and that panacea for every political +disease, a fine country abounding in resources, and of small population +in comparison to its extent. It is possible that the mischief will not +be felt, so long as there is no real motive for disaffection; so long +in fact as the people are not in want, which may not be the case while +ground yet remains to be cultivated. + +In England and America universal suffrage would be alike only in name. +In America it is true, that almost every one can vote; but then it +is equally true, that excepting in the larger cities in which may +be always found, even in America, a certain proportion of persons +without any ostensible means of getting a livelihood, every one has +at least a prospective certainty of the acquisition of property. The +poor, comparatively speaking, are so few, that universal suffrage is, +at present, but a mere hydra in embryo. Were the present course of +improvement to proceed without interruption, from what the political +economists call the disturbing causes,—were luxury to be kept at a +distance, and a forced equality and contentment to be preserved by a +strong and universal exertion of the democratic principle,—it would be +demonstrable, that the American constitution would last for centuries; +or in other words, till the country became so thickly peopled as to +be subject to the evils resulting to England, and the older dynasties +of Europe. If a democracy be essentially the best form of government, +it would follow that a surplus population, that unhappy proof of its +excellence, would but be called the sooner into existence. Then will +come the real moment of trial, whether a democracy can exist under +the pressure of want—whether those that have any thing to lose, would +not be at the mercy of those that have not—whether an equality of +condition would not be considered as conferring a title to a community +of goods—whether, when such a state of things is apprehended, a +standing armed force, be it called by what name it may, would not be +necessary, not to repress foreign invasion, but to put down domestic +commotions—whether taxes must not be levied for its support—and whether +those taxes would not be found exceedingly troublesome. In an article +in the American Quarterly Review, (July 1831), evidently written in +a wantonness of spirit that savours of ambition, or disappointment, +or of both, and in which we are kindly told the easiest road to ruin, +it is remarked that “our forefathers were habituated to the European +system, but they built up the republican colonies with infinite ease.” +But may it not be here remarked, that as it is the boast, and justly +the boast, of the Americans, and of the New Englanders in particular, +that the tone of liberty which pervades their institutions is derived +through the blood of the Puritans, who did build up the colonies with +infinite ease, and whose descendants are still living; so it must not +be forgotten that the Hampdens, the Hazelrigs, the Cromwells, and +others, who were prevented from embarking for America by the order of +their obstinate and ill-fated monarch, were men of the same opinions +as the “forefathers” mentioned above; that they did remain behind—that +they did fight against the monarchy of England—that they did obtain +the victory—that they did enjoy the ascendancy to their hearts’ +content—and that they did establish a commonwealth in England, not to +flourish for ever as an example to the world, but to be overthrown by +a military force, which brought back the son of the last king amid the +acclamations of every rank of society. + +Supposing the blood to be shed, and the horrors to be passed through, +that must be shed and passed through before the experiment of a +commonwealth could be again tried in England, is it possible that it +could exist, situated as Great Britain is with reference to the other +powers of Europe, without an unemployed standing army? and then again, +is it possible that it could exist with one? Where in the annals of +the world can the compatibility of the one and the other be pointed +to? England is but paying the penalty necessarily consequent on her +career of prosperity. Her constitution can no more be blamed for the +existence of a standing army, than for a superabundant population, or +the enormous size of London. + +By what then is it probable that the career of the Union will be +disturbed? Are not wealth and luxury to have their due weight? It is to +the credit of the Americans, that individual wealth has never yet been +employed for any unconstitutional purpose; but it is nevertheless true, +that an aristocracy is most undeniably springing up in every city of +the Union. In the course of time many large fortunes will be amassed, +and opulent families will be distributed throughout the country. It +will be but in the spirit of human nature, that a person in possession +of what in common American would be termed “an elegant location,” +should wish to have upon it a better house than his neighbours, and +that another should wish to have a still better; and is it to be +believed that the head of a rich and ambitious family will be for +ever, as now, restrained by the voice of public opinion from doing his +utmost to prevent a fine place from going out of his family? Can the +inclination remain in thraldom, and the man be said to enjoy liberty? +Will not one example be followed as a precedent by five hundred others? +and will not an hereditary aristocracy be produced in this manner? + +The system of entails in England is considered by the Americans as +highly pernicious; but their idea of its extent is far beyond the +truth. On this head I have heard great ignorance displayed by them. +Some think that an entailed estate cannot be destroyed at all; but +that an entailed estate cannot, in any case, be destroyed without the +consent of the eldest son, is the more common error; one which is +prevalent with the uninitiated even in England, and is, of course, +still more so among the Americans, who are but little aware that an +estate cannot, in any case, be rendered unalienable for more than one +generation; or, technically speaking, for more than a life or lives in +being, and twenty-one years afterwards. This rule has been a favourite +with English lawyers, because, on the one hand, it prevents landed +property from being unavailable for commercial purposes for a longer +period than one generation; and, on the other, it makes reasonable +allowance for the English policy of keeping up the families of our +nobility and gentry. From whence then does the vulgar error principally +arise? From this circumstance: under the usual form of settlement, the +father has the present enjoyment of the estate, and the son has the +inheritance in tail in expectancy; and in this case the father and +son, as soon as the latter is of age, may do what they please with the +estate; and it is a very common arrangement for them to agree to make +a fresh settlement, which ties up the estate for another generation. +But this is only an exercise of their absolute power of disposal, +which they might, if they pleased, exercise by selling the estate, or +otherwise getting rid of it. If no fresh settlement has been made, and +the son outlives the father, he alone may do what he pleases with the +estate, without asking the consent of his eldest son or of any other +person. The Americans are little aware that there is not a nobleman’s +estate in the country, with the exception of Blenheim, Strathfieldsay, +and perhaps half a dozen others, where the reversion is in the crown +under some very old grant, which could not be absolutely disposed of, +_once, at least_, in every generation. That there is a power of making +unalienable entails in Scotland, (with irritant and resolutive clauses, +as the Scotch lawyers have it), where the person making them is not +indebted at the time, is a truth which I do not conceive could have +given rise to the error respecting those in England. + + * * * * * + +The proceedings at the next session of congress will be of the utmost +importance, and before this work be out of the press, the tariff +question will probably have given rise to as much angry discussion as +has ever been heard within the walls of the capitol. + +The tariff, that is to say, the principle of effectual protection to +domestic industry, is supported by about two-thirds of the American +people. Manufactures sprung up during the late war, and millions of +dollars have since been invested in them on the faith of the tariff. +After the conclusion of hostilities, the war duties were repealed +generally; but some of them were continued for the protection of +domestic industry. This was effected in 1816, and by the influence +of the southern votes; and, strange as it may appear, was especially +supported by the members of South Carolina; whilst the northern members +were not generally partial to the measure. The southern states at +that period, were averse to the expense of a naval establishment: +they disliked foreign commerce, because it tended to embroil the +country in disputes with the European powers, and they were therefore +friendly to a moderate tariff. In 1824, additional protection was +given to manufactures. It was opposed by New England and the south, +and supported by the middle and western states. In 1828, still further +protection was given, notwithstanding a violent opposition from the +southern states, who now felt the error they had been guilty of. + +The tariff question, then, is simply this. The northern states are +manufacturers; the southern states are cotton growers. The southern +states have never objected to such duties on imported foreign +manufactures, as would be sufficient for the purposes of a revenue +equal to the government expenditure; but beyond what is necessary for +the attainment of that object, they are entirely averse to the tariff, +because Great Britain does not buy so much of their cotton as she would +if her manufactured goods were not excluded from the markets of the +United States, by means of the protecting duties. The inhabitants of +South Carolina are most violently opposed to the tariff. One-third of +them would, if they could, secede from the Union immediately. + +In the year 1823, the crop of cotton amounted to 420,000 bales. In +the year 1831, the crop has been ascertained to be 1,070,000 bales, +of which, 165,000 are consumed in the home manufactories, and the +remainder is exported, chiefly to England. + +Certainly, if ever there was a country upon earth where the principles +of free trade could be allowed an existence, that country is the states +of North America, so long as they remain united. When we contemplate +their unbounded resources, and their endless extent, we must admit that +they afford scope for a species of energy altogether without present +parallel in the old continent; and it is difficult to believe, that +free trade should not be a part of their system, not only because it +would correspond with the boasted freedom of their institutions, but +on account of the certainty of benefit they would ultimately derive +from it. But from the entirely different sources of wealth of the +northern and southern states, there emanates a disparity of interests, +which, with reference to the enormously increasing influence of the new +cotton states, are, it is plain, but partially developed at present. +The settlement of disputes arising from the differences of soil and +climate, in themselves uncontrollable by legislative interference, +must be a subject far more difficult to grapple with, than that which +merely relates to internal improvements, which may be assisted by an +alteration of the constitution. Many Americans will probably tell you +as they have told me, that the Union is becoming stronger and stronger; +they will assure you that there is a growing conviction, that the +complaints of the southern states are without foundation, that their +sufferings are chiefly imaginary, and that their citizens will, +sooner or later, come to the same opinion; that four-fifths of all +the articles that are taxed, either heavily or lightly, are consumed +in the northern, western, and the tariff states, while at the same +time a home market exists for from 150,000 to 200,000 bales of the +best cotton of the southern states, at the best prices: that the party +war which rages in newspapers throughout the Union, means nothing at +all; and that, to use the quotation so well applied by Mr. Adams in +his last 4th of July oration, delivered at Quincey, near Boston, “We +angry lovers mean not half we say.” It is probable that some part of +what is said by an American country newspaper on the subject of party, +may be nonsense; but one cannot help being a little less sceptical, +when higher authorities, and the proceedings of public meetings, are +consulted, which, if we are to judge by the excitement they occasion, +are not quite a farce, whatever county meetings may be in England. + +The report of the committee read at the anti-tariff convention, which +took place at Philadelphia on the 5th of October, 1831, contains +amongst others, the following strongly worded passage, speaking of +“that feeling of resentment which is goaded into activity by a sense of +oppression, and embittered by the recollection, that it is the hand of +a brother that inflicts it,” it proceeds, “do you doubt its existence, +its nature, or degree; look to the character of this assembly, and the +circumstances under which it is convened: give your attention to the +history of the past, and be admonished by the novel and extraordinary +spectacle which is presented to your view—do not close your eyes +altogether to the fact, that this assembly is without parallel in the +annals of the government; that we are freemen, and the representatives +of freemen, who speak to you of our violated rights; that we have come +from different, and distant parts of the Union, to join in demanding +their restoration; that a consciousness of strength is the offspring of +united counsel; and that our purpose is not the less firm, because it +is announced to you peaceably, and in the spirit of conciliation.” + +The reports of the different committees of investigation, appointed +by the opposition or tariff convention, which commenced its sittings +at New York on the 26th of October, had not appeared in print when I +quitted America. + +Mr. Adams, a strong tariff man, and residing in the heart of the +tariff, states, in his last 4th of July oration, speaking of the +doctrine of “nullification,” which, he says, “contains within itself +an absurdity, importing a pretended right of one state in this Union, +by virtue of her sovereignty, to make that null and void which it +pre-supposes to be null and void before,” proceeds, by saying, “that +it is a principle under which the pillars of the Union are tottering +while he is speaking.” On the other side, Mr. Calhoun, at the head +of the anti-tariff party, and one of the cleverest men in America, +in his “sentiments upon the subject of state rights and the tariff,” +says, that “whatever diversity of opinion may exist in relation to the +principle, or the effect on the productive industry of the country +of the present, or any other tariff of protection, there are certain +political consequences flowing from the present which none can doubt, +and all must deplore. It would be in vain to attempt to conceal, that +it has divided the country into two great geographical divisions, +and arrayed them against each other, in opinion at least if not in +interest also, on some of the most vital of political subjects—on its +finance, its commerce, and its industry—subjects calculated above +all others, in time of peace, to produce excitement, and in relation +to which the tariff has placed the sections in question in deep and +dangerous conflict. If there be any point on which the (I was going to +say southern section, but to avoid, as far as possible, the painful +feelings such discussions are calculated to excite, I shall say) weaker +of the two sections is unanimous, it is that its prosperity depends in +a great measure on free trade, light taxes, economical and, as far as +possible, equal disbursements of the public revenue, and an unshackled +industry; leaving them to pursue whatever may appear most advantageous +to their interests. From the Potomac to the Mississippi there are few, +indeed, however divided on other points, who would not, if dependent on +their volition, and if they regarded the interest of their particular +section only, remove from commerce and interest every shackle, reduce +the revenue to the lowest point that the wants of the government fairly +required, and restrict the appropriations to the most moderate scale, +consistent with the peace, the security, and the engagements of the +public; and who do not believe that the opposite system is calculated +to throw on them an unequal burthen, to repress their prosperity, and +to encroach on their enjoyment. On all these deeply important measures +the opposite opinion prevails, if not with equal unanimity, with at +least a greatly preponderating majority in the other and stronger +section, so much so that no two distinct nations ever entertained +more opposite views of policy than these two sections do on all the +important points to which I have referred,” &c. &c. “The system,” he +adds in a note, “if continued, must end, not only in subjecting the +industry and property of the weaker section to the control of the +stronger, but in proscription and political disfranchisement. It must +finally control elections and appointments to offices, as well as acts +of legislation, to the great increase of the feelings of animosity, and +of the fatal tendency to a complete alienation between the sections.” + +The remedy proposed by Mr. Calhoun appears exceedingly reasonable. +In three years the national debt of the United States will be paid +off, and the government will find itself in possession of a surplus +revenue of 10,000,000 or 12,000,000 of dollars, chiefly arising from +the tariff duties. The applications from the different states for +its appropriation under the internal improvement system will be +innumerable, and it will be impossible to grant them without adding a +stimulus to old causes of jealousy, and giving birth to new ones. To +adopt the system of dividing the money between the different states +is admitted, on all hands, to be unconstitutional, not only because +no such power is given by the articles of the constitution, but +because the exercise of it would tend to render the individual states +too dependent on the favour of the general government. Mr. Calhoun +recommends, that the money should be left in the pockets of the people, +and affirms that there is but one “effectual cure—an honest reduction +of the duties to a fair system of revenue, adapted to the just and +constitutional wants of the government, and that nothing short of this +will restore the country to peace, harmony, and mutual affection.” + +The example of good citizenship displayed by Massachusetts during +the existence of the embargo in 1807, is now referred to as worthy +of imitation by the southern states; a total stagnation of the trade +of that state was the consequence of the Berlin decree, and the +retaliatory orders in council of the British government; and in the +opinion that the embargo was unconstitutional, the question was tried +before the supreme court of the United States, who decided in favour +of the authority of the general government. Massachusetts behaved +with the best grace imaginable, conscious that there was no medium +between submission and separation,—no alternative but acquiescence or +disunion. Her behaviour might be imitated, but under very different +circumstances. In the case of Massachusetts, the cause of the evil was +understood: it was external: it could be removed; or rather would some +day cease as a matter of course; but with South Carolina, the disease +is internal, existing in the time of peace, increasing, and most +likely, beyond the reach of any but a temporary remedy. + +The first intimation I had of the existence of the tariff was likely to +have been a disagreeable one. When I landed at New York, I had with me +an excellent double-barreled fowling-piece; and I was told that I must +either pay thirty per cent. on its full value, or I could deposit it in +safe-keeping at the custom-house till my return; and in the mean time I +could purchase an American gun cheap; I was indebted to the liberality +of the gentleman presiding at the head of the custom-house, who, upon +hearing from a friend that I had not brought it to sell, but merely for +my pleasure, politely and immediately gave me an order for it. + +The climate of Washington has undergone a considerable alteration +within the memory of those who have known it for the last forty +years. Its healthiness has by no means increased as the forest has +disappeared; on the contrary, the reverse effect has rather been +produced. The real nature of a climate cannot be known till it has been +rendered fit for the habitation of man; and no land can be said to be +in that condition, till it has been partially cleared and cultivated. +The process in some places renders the climate warmer, and in others +it has the effect of producing more cold; so that it does not always +follow that clearing is productive of beneficial results. Since the +forests of the Pyrenees have been gradually cut down and destroyed, the +south of France is not nearly so desirable a residence for invalids as +it was formerly. In Germany, a good effect has been produced; but not +so at Washington. The summer is still excessively hot, (the thermometer +ranging above ninety in the shade), and the winter very cold: +originally these two seasons almost divided the year between them; but +now, the weather exhibits far more of the variableness of the climate +of England. The vicissitudes of temperature are often painful, and +frequently and rapidly produced by the most violent and piercing gusts +of wind from the north-west. The cold of winter, although still very +severe, has been much mitigated of late years. In 1780, the bay of the +Chesapeake was solid ice from its head to the mouth of the Potomac; and +in some places, at Annapolis for instance, from five to seven inches +thick. In 1772, the snow in the district of Washington was nearly three +feet deep, and in some places it drifted to the depth of ten or twelve. +The length and severity of the winters have much abated; but still +the climate, as I was informed by a gentleman perfectly acquainted +with the subject, has not become more healthy. In the year 1829, the +average number of deaths for the last ten years, has been one in every +fifty-three. The greatest mortality prevails in the month of August, +and the cases are chiefly those of fever. It is owing to the malignity +and greater variety of diseases, accidents, and privations, to which +the poorer inhabitants of the more thickly peopled cities are liable, +that the annual mortality at New York is calculated as one to fifty; +and at Baltimore as one to forty-nine. In Charleston, South Carolina, +it is as one to forty: the situation being more southerly, it is not so +healthy as that of Washington. + +Every part of the United States is said to be more or less unhealthy +during the summer months; but the inhabitants of the northern and +middle states, and of the high lands and ridges, excepting in the +vicinity of water, enjoy a much purer air than that breathed by the +inhabitants of the southern states, and the lower districts of the +country. An American writer remarks, that “The intermitting fever +which is confined to particular spots, seems to originate from the +exhalations of marshes, and borders of stagnant waters, though it is +a curious fact and worthy the attention of physicians, that families +who live in the neighbourhood of these places enjoy good health, while +others who inhabit the summit of the adjacent hill, are victims to +this annually returning malady. When marshy places become dry, fish, +insects, and decaying vegetable substances exposed to the action of a +burning sun, generate those gaseous miasms which, absorbed by the body, +produce weakness, sickness, and death. Ascending by their lightness +they are probably carried by the winds to a neighbouring eminence, +where settling, they form a sickly and noxious atmosphere.” I have more +than once heard it remarked, that the Americans of the present day are +not such men as their fathers, the soldiers of the war of Independence. +They can take as true an aim with a rifle, but cannot undergo the same +fatigue, and are not so long lived, generally. The inhabitants of the +more northern states of New England, are perhaps, exceptions; but in +any given number of the inhabitants of Georgia, and the Carolinas for +instance, there are not so many persons to be found of ninety years +old and upwards, as among the same number of persons living in the +country in England. I heard this from a gentleman on whose information +I believed that I could rely: yet it is singular, that according to +the census of 1830, the number of persons of a hundred years old and +upwards, should be larger in the southern than in the northern states. +The middle states could boast of a larger number of whites of a hundred +years old and upwards, than any other. New York in a population of +1,913,508 containing fifty-three, and Pennsylvania fifty-seven in a +population of 1,347,672: the total number in the United States was +2654. The largest number in any one state was in Virginia, 479, but by +far the greatest proportion of these are blacks. Mungo Park affirms +that the negroes in Africa are not a long-lived race. Speaking of the +Mandingoes, the general name for the inhabitants of the country watered +by the Gambia, he says, “They seldom attain extreme old age. At forty, +many of them become grey haired, and covered with wrinkles, but few of +them survive the age of fifty-five or fifty.” It is singular that they +should attain a greater age in the United States. By the table which +shows the number of persons of one hundred years old and upwards, it +will be seen that the proportion of blacks of that age greatly exceeds +that of the whites; but it may be remarked, that the ages of the +blacks are not so well known as those of the whites; and the accuracy +therefore of the census, as it respects the ages of this class, is less +to be relied on. It may be remarked, that Dr. Ramsay, the historian of +South Carolina, asserts, that those individuals who have been born and +brought up in the northern states, and who have afterwards migrated to +the south, are usually more robust, more capable of withstanding the +climate, and are longer lived than the natives of the south. Certain +it is, that the Americans in general have not the healthy look of +the Englishman. The men are often tall, very powerful, particularly +in Kentucky, and well proportioned; but their complexions are not +unfrequently sallow, and climate-worn, with a countenance resembling +that of a person just recovered from an illness. This is partly the +consequence of the climate, partly of their mode of living and their +love of ardent spirits, still fatally prevalent. I am speaking of +traveller’s fare when I say, that the tavern tables are always well +and plentifully supplied; but no viands are thought so palatable as +those that are swimming in melted butter. A beef steak that would be +excellent if cooked _au naturel_, is almost invariably placed at the +head of the table, and in this manner almost invariably spoiled. At +breakfast the bread and cakes cannot be too new, or too hot; and fresh +supplies arrive during the meal, which is usually despatched with the +most extraordinary rapidity. At New York I once had the tablecloth +whisked from under my plate by the impatient servants. The natural +consequence is, an extreme prevalence of dyspepsia in all parts of the +United States, which is not lessened by the incredible quantity of +soda water, sweetened with different syrups, which is consumed by the +Americans during the hot weather. At Baltimore I have drank, I think, +the finest soda water I ever tasted. + +The inns, or taverns, as they are called, which I met with were +generally good, particularly in the towns; those in the country, +however, were sometimes exceedingly dirty and disagreeable. I have +almost always found the greatest disposition on the part of the +landlord to render them as comfortable as possible, and have very +seldom failed in my application for a room with a single bed, some +of them containing as many as four or five. The Americans think +nothing of this. Upon one occasion, in Kentucky, where I had secured a +single-bedded room, the landlord who appeared to have been surprised, +and thought I must be ill, came up to me shortly afterwards, and most +good-naturedly told me, that my room was ready: “As you’re unwell, sir, +I guessed you’d like to retire directly.” The expense of living at the +best inns in the United States varies from two to three dollars a day. +For this sum a person is provided with a bed, and four meals at stated +hours. A coffee-room in the hotel for eating and drinking at one’s own +time, is a luxury the Americans have not yet attained to; at least I +do not remember to have seen one anywhere. I did not find the regular +hours so troublesome as I expected, as the great heat rendered it +impossible for weeks together to take any thing like severe exercise, +excepting at a very early hour of the morning, or after six o’clock +in the evening. I would instance Mr. Head’s table at Philadelphia, as +the best in the United States. There was a quiet gentlemanlike style +about it, that I never saw surpassed, or hardly equalled, by a table +d’hôte in any country. I wish I could speak as well of the bed-rooms in +that respect; I much prefer those at Mr. Barnum’s at Baltimore, and Mr. +Gadsby’s at Washington. Take it altogether, the Tremont at Boston, is +by far the best hotel in the States. Ice is to be had in the greatest +plenty in all parts of the United States; I have even found it as a +luxury at my toilette. On the subject of eating ices, I found that +nobody would touch a water ice, and that in general cream ices only +were to be met with, even at the best shops. + +The most fearful enemy of health is ardent spirits, which, by those +who drink them at all, are taken at all hours, from four in the +morning till twelve at night, and swallowed under the various and +subdued appellations of bitters, egg-nogg, mint-julep, and many others; +all sounding watery enough to have captivated Sangrado himself. The +Temperance Societies are an honour to the country. There are about +1000 of them in the United States, composed of 1,200,000 members, and +affecting about 2,000,000 of individuals directly or indirectly. They +have caused the suppression of 1000 distilleries, and 3000 retail +stores. The members solemnly promise that they will not touch a drop of +any kind of spirits: of course, the rules of the society are sometimes +broken, particularly as they allow wine and brandy when ordered by +the doctor. I have heard it observed by those who are unfriendly to +these associations, that an individual who cannot abstain from spirits +without belonging to a temperance society, will not refrain when he +becomes a member; but there is a vast difference between the strength +of a resolution made to oneself, and known only to oneself, and a +promise solemnly and publicly given, where fulfilment is demanded +by honour, the fear of shame, and the duty of example. It is always +observed, that when a member of the society has once relapsed into his +old habits, his course is one of recklessness and desperation. That +the societies have done good is undeniable, by their influence on the +wholesale trade in spirits at New York. + + +END OF VOL. I. + + +Manning and Smithson, Printers, London-house Yard, St. Paul’s. + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + + Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, + and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained. + + Inconsistent hyphenations have been left as is. + + Page 50. “fifty cents. per annum” replaced by “fifty cents per annum”. + Page 58. “fashionble” replaced by “fashionable”. + Page 85. “cerous virginianus” replaced by “cervus virginianus”. + Page 113. “enojoyment” replaced by “enojoyment”. + Page 201. “represensatives” replaced by “representatives”. + Page 205. “choise” replaced by “choice”. + Page 208. ‘“the Cherokee case;’ replaced by ‘“the Cherokee case;”’. + Page 240. “40,000l,” replaced by “40,000l.”. + Page 252. Removed duplicated the across page boundary. + Page 274. “neighbonrhood” replaced by “neighbourhood”. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 *** diff --git a/78724-h/78724-h.htm b/78724-h/78724-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac48ba2 --- /dev/null +++ b/78724-h/78724-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5811 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no,date=no,address=no,email=no,url=no"> + <title> + Six months in America. | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1, +h2, +h3, +h4, +h5, +h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + font-weight: normal; + clear: both; +} + +p { + text-indent: 1em; + margin-top: 0.51em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: 0.49em; +} + +.p2 { + margin-top: 2em; +} +.p4 { + margin-top: 4em; +} + +.fs170 { + font-size: 170%; +} +.fs150 { + font-size: 150%; +} +.fs120 { + font-size: 120%; +} +.fs80 { + font-size: 80%; +} +.fs60 { + font-size: 60%; +} +.lsp2 { + letter-spacing: 0.25em; +} +.bold { + font-weight: bold; +} +.noindent { + text-indent: 0em; +} + +.corr { + text-decoration: none; + border-bottom: thin dashed blue; +} +.x-ebookmaker .corr { + text-decoration: none; + border-bottom: none; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.tb { + width: 45%; + margin-left: 27.5%; + margin-right: 27.5%; +} +hr.chap { + width: 65%; + margin-left: 17.5%; + margin-right: 17.5%; +} +@media print { + hr.chap { + display: none; + visibility: hidden; + } +} + +hr.r5 { + width: 5%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-left: 47.5%; + margin-right: 47.5%; +} + +div.chapter { + page-break-before: always; +} +h2.nobreak { + page-break-before: avoid; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { + /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + color: #a9a9a9; + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; +} /* page numbers */ + +.center { + text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; +} + +.smcap { + font-variant: small-caps; +} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} +img.w100 { + width: 100%; +} + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote { + background-color: #e6e6fa; + color: black; + font-size: small; + padding: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 5em; + font-family: sans-serif, serif; +} + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowp100 {width: 100%;} + </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 ***</div> + +<div class="transnote"> +TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE + +<p>Some minor changes to the text are noted at the <a href="#transnote">end of the book</a>. +</p> +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i002_2" style="max-width: 105.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i002.jpg" alt="Spectators observing a waterfall."> + <figcaption style="margin: 0 2em"> + <p class="noindent"> + <span>G.T. Vigne delṭ</span> + <span style="float: right">T.S. Engleheart.sculpṭ</span> + </p> + <p class="center fs150">NIAGARA.</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<h1 class="center"> +SIX MONTHS<br> +<br> +<span class="fs60">IN</span><br> +<br> +<span class="bold">AMERICA.</span> +</h1> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p class="center" style="line-height: 2em"> +<span class="fs150">SIX MONTHS</span><br> +<br> +IN<br> +<br> +<span class="fs170 bold">AMERICA.</span></p> +<p class="p4 center"> +BY<br> +<br> +<span class="fs120">GODFREY T. VIGNE, ESQ.</span><br> +<br> +OF LINCOLN’S INN, BARRISTER AT LAW.</p> +<p class="p4 center fs120"> +VOL. I.<br> +</p> +<p class="p4 center" style="line-height: 1.5em"> +LONDON:<br> +<span class="lsp2 p2">WHITTAKER, TREACHER, & CO.</span><br> +<span class="fs80">AVE MARIA LANE.</span><br> +</p> +<hr class="r5" style="margin-bottom: 0"> +<p class="center"> +1832. +</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span></p> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p class="center"> +<span class="fs80">LONDON:</span><br> +Manning and Co., Printers, 4, London House Yard,<br> +St. Pauls. +</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span></p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SIX_MONTHS_IN_AMERICA"> + SIX MONTHS IN AMERICA. + </h2> +</div> + + +<p> + <span class="smcap">Reader</span>, +</p> + +<p>I will not inflict upon you the penalty of +preface or dedication, being fully persuaded that +you would care for neither; and therefore if +you are disposed to follow me to America, I will +inform you at once, that after having seen the +greater part of Europe, I went on board the +packet, George Canning, on the 24th of March, +1831, and sailed from Liverpool for New York, +with my note-book, sketch-book, gun, and fishing +rod—alone, unbewifed and unbevehicled, as +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>a man ought to travel, and with the determination +of being, as far as an Englishman can be, +unprejudiced; and of seeing all I could of the +United States in the space of about six months.</p> + +<p>Having said this, I beg of you to remember +that I do not profess to tell you what may be +seen in a year. I may be allowed to mention, +that the George Canning is one of the best of +the twenty-six packets that sail from Liverpool +to different parts of North America. Every +possible comfort and every reasonable luxury is +at the command of the passenger; and, whether +he be confined to his state-room from the effects +of sea-sickness, or indulging a most Atlantic +appetite, and quaffing champagne to the memory +of Columbus, he cannot fail at the end of his +voyage to be loud in the praises of her excellent +commander, Captain Allyn. We saw an average +number of young whales, but contrived to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>miss the icebergs and the sea-serpent; and after +an excellent passage of twenty-three-days (the +voyage from Liverpool, at this season of the +year, being scarcely ever less than thirty), we +sailed through the Narrows into the splendid +bay of New York. The passage so named is +about three quarters of a mile in width, and +defended by four or five hundred pieces of +cannon. The most prominent object is a diamond-shaped +fort, which appears to rise out of +the water, and is called Fort La Fayette, because +it fired its first salute in honour of that General, +upon his arrival on the shores of America in +1824. The fort on the New Jersey side, as if +in opposition to its French-named antagonist, +is known by the very English name of Fort +Tomkins.</p> + +<p>On the Long Island beach is seen New +Utrecht, a small sea-bathing place, and celebrated +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span>as the spot where the British troops, +under the command of Sir Henry Clinton, were +landed without opposition, previously to their +attack of New York in 1776. Numerous vessels +of different sizes that had been detained outside +by contrary winds, were working their way +through the Narrows at the same time, and +presented a most animating spectacle. They +were from all parts of the world; the sun shone +full upon their white sails; the broad bright +pine-streak reddened beneath his declining rays, +and added a characteristic elegance to the appearance +of the American ships, which taken as +a class, are certainly handsomer than those of +any other nation. That the trim and figure of +a British merchantman are usually inferior to +those of America, is owing to the circumstance +of there being no tonnage-duty in America; +and therefore, their ships are constructed for +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>the carriage of a given number of tons with +the greatest speed; but by the British method +of rating their ships, a merchantman can be +constructed so as to carry more than her legal +tonnage without paying for it; of which John +Bull very properly takes advantage by swelling +out his ships as much as possible, so long as he +can avoid the liability of being charged at a +higher rate.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely entered the bay when the +wind dropped; steam-boats were plying in all +directions, and one of them coming alongside, I +was glad to avail myself of her assistance, and +arrived at New York before sunset. Within +two minutes after I had landed I found myself +in the Broadway, the principal street and promenade +in the city. At two o’clock on every +fine day, all the fashion and too-gaily dressed +beauty of New York are to be seen there. It +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>contains the finest shops, and altogether has a +very lively and city-like appearance, which, +nevertheless, suffers considerably on account of +the houses being mostly built of red brick. Its +width, I should say, is about the same as that +of Oxford-street; in length it is, or rather will +be when finished, about three miles. The +courts of justice hold their sittings in the city-hall, +a large and handsome building of Massachusetts +white marble and brown free-stone, +which stands in the centre of what is called the +Park, a green open space on the side of the +Broadway. The prison, a gloomy-looking structure, +is too conspicuous, and exceedingly handy, +being so near to it that a “ponte de ’i sospiri” +might be thrown across from one to the +other with great effect. But it is not in the +contemplation of the most refined and magnificent +works of art, that the European traveller +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>in the United States must expect to derive his +principal gratification. The public buildings in +New York for the different purposes of charity, +education, and commerce, are very numerous; +but there are none that can lay claim to his +particular attention: in a few hours, with a +little assistance from a cabriolet or an omnibus, +he might see all that is worth his notice in the +city, considered merely as a collection of buildings, +containing 200,000 inhabitants. It is the +extraordinary energy and urgency of commerce +that will chiefly attract his attention. The wharfs +on the North river are flanked by superb steam-boats, +daily and hourly employed in the conveyance +of thousands; those on the East river, by +double and triple lines of the most beautiful +merchantmen; while the three streets which run +successively parallel to them might be taken for +one enormous warehouse, the pavement being +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>nearly blocked up with merchandise from every +country, and exhibiting a rattling and somewhat +dangerous confusion of carts and cranes, that is +quite beyond a “private gentleman’s belief,” till +he has seen it. Although the actual numerical +tonnage of the trade of New York is four times +less than that of Liverpool, yet the appearance +of bustle and business is far more striking at +New York: the reason is, that there is so much +more retail trade carried on in the latter city +than in Liverpool, or any other city in the +world. Innumerable boats descend the North +river, laden with timber, or live and dead stock, +and provisions for the markets of New York, +and carry back a petty and varied cargo of +wearing apparel and other necessaries that are +wanted in the interior.</p> + +<p>Although Philadelphia is a larger place, the +balance of trade between New York and that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>city is usually, if not always, in favour of New +York. Imported goods sold at Philadelphia, on +account of the New York merchants, are paid +for in bills made payable at Philadelphia. The +banks at New York discount these bills, which +as they become due are satisfied on demand by +payment in specie; so that there is a constant +flow of hard dollars from Philadelphia to New +York.</p> + +<p>In order to see the city in perfection, the +North river must be crossed, and a fine view is +obtained from any of the rising grounds on the +opposite bank. But to include a distant view +of the city and the bay in the same drawing, +I should recommend a station on Staten Island, +or on the opposite heights about Gowanus. +On this head the British public will soon be +satisfied. Before I quitted America, I was +favoured with a sight of the most exact and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>admirable drawings to be used as materials for +the next view at the Colosseum in the Regent’s +Park, which I understood was to be that of New +York and its environs. It is singular that, as in +London, they should all have been taken from +the top of St. Paul’s church. Unless I were +anxious to write either an almanack or a guide-book, +I think I need not here say more about +New York; reserving for another place any +remarks that apply generally to one city as well +as another. I will merely add, that I should +strongly recommend every one to visit the Museum +before he commences a tour; and that +the city contains two excellent theatres, of which +that in the Park is the more fashionable: I +heard the English version of the “Cenerentola” +performed in very good style: I was delighted +with the singing of our countrywoman. Mrs. +Austin, and I laughed heartily at the drolleries +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>of Mr. Hackett, who is an unrivalled mimic of +the eccentricities of his countrymen. An Italian +opera is confidently expected by the next season. +At present the first society in New York, which +is very good, is seldom to be seen at the theatre. +In my ignorance, I was very much astonished +the first evening I went there, at seeing a multitude +of persons, who would have thought it a +gross mistake not to have been taken for gentlemen, +sitting occasionally in the front and almost +always in the back seats of the dress circle, with +their hats on, in the presence of ladies, who +were scattered in different parts of the same box.</p> + +<p>Now, New York, if not the most refined, is +certainly, strictly speaking, the most fashionable +place in the Union, and it is not to be wondered +at, that foreigners who have just landed from +Europe and who very probably go to the theatre +on the first evening of their arrival, should +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span>thence imbibe strange and unjust ideas of the +best American manners. I have heard that common +sense is the characteristic of the Americans; +and I think there is great truth in the remark; +but I do not like it when it is so <i>very</i> common. +These republican De Courcys are very fond of +wearing their hats: I never was at church in +the United States, without observing individuals +(I do not say many), who would evidently have +been very sorry to have been thought guilty of +any impropriety, putting their hats on when the +service was over, in the very body of the church. +These are no trifles when considered as part +of the national manners. But in the United +States there is no standard for manners: their +political independence is oftentimes imperceptibly +identified with independence of behaviour +that procures for individuals an unfavourable +opinion, of which the men and their minds are +alike unworthy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span></p> + +<p>It was the twenty-third of April, St. George’s +day, when I left New York to commence my +tour; the members of the St. George’s Society +were going to dine together, and the huge banner +of the saint was waving from one of the upper +windows of the City-hotel, as I emerged from +the gloomy recesses, in enormous establishments +ycleped single-bedded rooms, and proceeded to +the wharf where the New Brunswick steamers +are to be found, and where it is coolly and most +intelligibly intimated to the traveller, in very +large letters, that he can have “Transportation +to Philadelphia,” at a very trifling expense. +These steam-boats are necessarily very large; +being frequently destined to carry three or even +four hundred passengers: they are constructed +in the best manner for obtaining the greatest +proportionate space and a free circulation of air. +They may fairly be said to be three-deckers. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span>The working-beam is usually placed at a great +height above the upper-deck, and the whole of +the engine is so much raised that no inconvenience +arises from the heat of the boilers. +When one of these steamers is seen approaching +from a distance, the confusion of green and white +galleries gives it very much the appearance of +a moving summer-house. The rapidity with +which we moved across the bay procured me a +constant change of scene: the banks were dotted +with small villages, but I observed but few gentlemen’s +seats. At a distance, on the right, +stands the town of Newark, a considerable place, +discernible by its white steeples. We passed +Perth Amboy at the mouth of the Rariton river; +the first British settlement in New Jersey. +The governor’s house, the picquet and guard-house, +can be seen from the river. The governor’s +house resembles a Gloucestershire spinning +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>mill. I was landed at New Brunswick, +where I found conveyances awaiting the arrival +of the steamer in order to carry its passengers +across the country to Bordentown. Notwithstanding +that this road is one of the principal +thoroughfares between New York and +Philadelphia, yet I was fairly and quickly jolted +into the conviction that although it was probable +I should travel over many that were as bad, yet +that I could not by any possibility find one that +was worse. Allowances are to be made for the +roads I afterwards saw, in the back settlements; +but the condition of this one was really disgraceful. +There was a great deal of wood on every +side; but it can hardly be called forest, being +what is here termed second-growth wood. A +great part of these lands had been cleared by +the earlier settlers, but were allowed to remain +uncultivated, and to be overgrown whenever a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>soil of greater fertility and sufficiently protected, +was discovered in the interior of the country.</p> + +<p>Bordentown, is a small, but neat and pretty, +village on the banks of the Delaware. On the +outskirts is a large and rather irregular brick +building at the extremity of a court-yard, which +is flanked by stabling and other outhouses, with +extensive gardens and pleasure grounds behind +them, laid out a l’Anglais. This is the residence +of the Count Survilliers, better known, in +England at least, as Joseph Buonaparte. I was +provided with an introduction to his Excellency, +and paid him a morning visit. His reception of +me was exceedingly courteous. The instant he +appeared, I was most forcibly struck with the very +strong resemblance he bore to the later portraits +of Napoleon. His person, I should say, was +rather larger; the expression of the eye was the +same, though more subdued; the same hair, the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>same shaped head, and the same contour of +feature generally, with a darker complexion, and +a good set of teeth. I should say, the principal +difference was observable in the mouth, which +seemed more inclinable to the jocose than the +sanguinary. After some conversation, which was +carried on in French, and turned chiefly on +the subject of European travel, his Excellency +showed me his pictures, which are numerous and +interesting. He has several fine Murillos, and +a most beautiful Madonna by Vandyke. He +has many portraits of his own family; among +these is one of Napoleon in his coronation robes, +and the well-known picture of the First Consul on +horseback, crossing the Alps. I felt an emotion +which I will not attempt to describe, when, as we +passed round the room, he paused before the latter +picture, and drew my attention to it, remarking +that it was the original, by David. The cabinet +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>of statues and mosaics is also very fine, and the +collection altogether by far the best in America. +His Excellency occasionally mixes in society +both at New York and Philadelphia, and talks +without reserve of his former situation, “Quand +j’etais roi d’Espagne.” “Dans mes belles +affaires,” are occasionally introduced in his conversation. +By his advice I subsequently mounted +the observatory in his grounds. Thence I enjoyed +a very fine view of the country on the +opposite side of the Delaware, whose broad and +rapid stream was flowing beneath me; on the +left, the river seemed to lose itself among the +distant woods of Pennsylvania; on the right, at +a distance of about six miles, is Trenton, +made notorious by the daring passage of the +Delaware, and the subsequent defeat and capture, +of a body of Hessians, by General Washington, +on the night of the 25th of December, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>1776, during a violent storm, and when the +danger of the revolutionists was at its crisis.</p> + +<p>Bordentown is about twenty-six miles from +Philadelphia. The next day I proceeded to +that city in a steam-boat, which stopped for +passengers at every considerable village on the +well-wooded, but flat and uninteresting, banks +of the river. At length Philadelphia makes its +appearance, stretching for nearly three miles +along the western side of a bend or angle of +the river. This view is certainly a fine one, +but it would be much improved by the appearance +of a few more steeples or lofty structures. +From the water two or three only are visible +above this immense assemblage of red houses; +and yet the city contains nine episcopal churches, +a great number of public buildings, and charitable +institutions without end.</p> + +<p>Great attention is paid to the education of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>the poorer classes: the constitution of Pennsylvania +declaring, “That the legislature shall, as +soon as convenient, provide by law for the +establishment of schools, in such manner that +the poor may be educated without expense.”</p> + +<p>Philadelphia has been often described. The +streets cross each other at right angles: those +running parallel with the river are numbered, +second, third, fourth, &c.; the others usually +bear the name of some fruit or tree. The word +street is usually omitted: in describing the way, +a person would tell you that the place you +were looking for was in Walnut, below fifth; +Sassafras, above second; Mulberry, between +seventh and eighth, &c. These streets run over +a distance of two miles, from the Delaware to +the Schuyllkill river, which enters the Delaware +about nine miles to the south of Philadelphia. +The Bank of Pennsylvania is a small building, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>but elegantly designed from the Temple of the +Muses, on the Ilyssus, near Athens.</p> + +<p>The new Mint of the United States was +unfinished, but promised to be a chaste and +beautiful building, on a larger scale, from the +same model. On the 4th of July, 1776, the +Declaration of Independence was signed, and +afterwards read from the steps of the State-house, +where the state courts of justice are now +held. The room in which this took place had +been fitted up for La Fayette in 1824, as the +most appropriate place for levee tenure; but +when I saw it, it was occupied by workmen, who +had instructions to replace every thing as it was +when it acquired its present reputation.</p> + +<p>The Academy of Fine Arts much exceeded +my expectations. Although the most conspicuous +pictures were those of American academicians, +yet here and there the eye was attracted +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>by a Vandyke, a Rubens, a Guercino, and a +Salvator Rosa, or some good copies from them. +There were a few landscapes by Ruysdael, and +a fine Murillo: the subject was the Roman +daughter. The productions from the English +school, were portraits of John H. Powell, Esq. +by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of John Kemble by +Sir M. A. Shee, and another of Dugald Stuart +by Sir H. Raeburn. Any person conversant +with the pictures of this latter artist, would have +recognised this, by the usual green colouring in +the back-ground. There were five admirable +portraits by Mr. Stewart, the American artist, +of the Presidents Washington, Adams, Jefferson, +Madison, and Monroe. The best full-length +portrait of Washington is that in the Fauneuil +Hall at Boston; but as a half-length this is, I +believe, considered the original. They were all +remarkable for their easy and unsophisticated +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>attitudes. Mr. Stewart has been dead about +five years. Mr. Hardinge has also very great +merit as a portrait painter; but Mr. Sully has +the reputation of being the first in America. A +portrait of Sir Thomas Lawrence, by that gentleman, +is a most successful imitation of the +style of the late president. He exhibited also +an excellent full-length portrait of General La +Fayette; and Mr. Tuman, a scarcely inferior +artist, is at present employed in painting another, +of Mr. Penn, which will occupy a place +beside the General in the Hall of Independence. +I also observed a composition-landscape, by Mr. +Fisher, which had very great merit. It was well +remarked in the preface to the catalogue, that +so many of the pictures did not need indulgence, +in comparison with that which had heretofore +been cheerfully, and with justice, conceded to +them. This was very true of a large proportion +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>of them, but some nevertheless, needed it not a +little; and in fact had no business there. It is +a pity that the Americans do not take warning +by the constant outcry that for so many years +has been justly raised against the swarm of +portraits that annually cluster on the walls of +Somerset-house. They might well devote more +of their time and talent to historical painting. +With the exception of the “Sortie from Gibraltar,” +by Colonel Trumbull, and another very +indifferent picture, there were, I think, no historical +pieces in the room appropriated to +modern events. The Americans cannot plead +a want of subjects: the revolution is not half +illustrated; besides, they may depend upon it, +portrait painting is a very aristocratical thing +after all, and should not be generally encouraged, +on that account. In running over the +walls of a modern exhibition-room, the eye is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>fatigued by its endeavours to avoid an encounter +with the features of individuals in a new character, +to which many of them never had the +slightest pretensions, except upon canvass.</p> + +<p>The water-works on the Schuyllkill are probably +the finest in the world: they can scarcely +be praised too highly for beauty of design, +simplicity of construction, and real usefulness. +A dam, sixteen hundred feet in length, is +thrown across the river, by which the stream is +backed up for several miles, and an enormous +water-power thus created. The solid rock has +been excavated, in order to obtain what is +termed a race; and by means of huge double-forcing +pumps, worked by four immense wheels, +the water is thrown up into an ample reservoir, +fifty-six feet above the highest ground in the +city. It is calculated that each wheel and pump +could raise one million two hundred and fifty +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>thousand gallons in twenty-four hours, if allowed +to play without intermission. The rising ground +in the neighbourhood of the water-works affords +the best and nearest general view of the city. +Thence I visited the botanical gardens of Mr. +Pratt, containing a very fine orangery and a +choice collection of exotics, and delightfully +situated on the east side of the Schuyllkill, which +spreads out to a great extent immediately beneath +them, with banks wooded to the water’s +edge. In a very few years this fine scene is +destined to be unnatured. By this time a rail-road +is commenced, which will run from Philadelphia +to Columbia, a distance of eighty-two +miles: it will there join the great Pennsylvanian +canal, which has been finished nearly all +the way from the eastern side of the Alleghany +mountains. In order to pass these, a rail-road +on inclined planes, will be constructed; by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>which the rich mineral productions on the +western slope of the mountains, consisting +chiefly of iron and bituminous coal of the finest +quality, will be quickly forwarded to Philadelphia +in any quantity. The greatest height of +the Alleghany mountains in Pennsylvania, is +thirteen hundred feet. The rail-road I have +mentioned, will pass at a short distance from the +water-works; and therefore, in all probability, +no very long period will elapse before the +vicinity will become a coal-yard.</p> + +<p>The porcelain manufactory is not far off. +I was told that the material was little inferior +to that of Sevres, but I found the painting +indifferent. French China is still preferred, +and superiority cannot yet be expected in this +department.</p> + +<p>In my way back to the city, I visited the +Penitentiary of Pennsylvania. This is the most +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>extensive building in the United States. The +front is 670 feet in length—very handsome, and +bearing a baronial and gloomy appearance, in +the style of our old English castles. Its area +is a square, with a tower at each angle of the +prison wall. It is intended that eight corridors +should radiate from an observatory in the centre +of the area, but only three are in use at present. +These contain the cells, and command a +free circulation of air, and a plentiful supply +of water. The only punishment adopted, is +solitary confinement. This Penitentiary is too +young an establishment to afford a perfect confidence +in the opinions of those who are favourable +to its system. The reports of the inspectors +are, however, extremely encouraging. The first +and present warder (Mr. Samuel R. Wood) +was only appointed in June 1829. This gentleman, +who is well known as a kind of second +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>Howard in his way, has visited many of the principal +prisons in Europe; and now finds employment +for his talents and his humanity in, I +believe, his native city. Every crime committed +in the state of Pennsylvania, on this side of the +Alleghany mountains, that is punishable by imprisonment +at all for the space of one year or +more, is to be expiated by solitary confinement +within this Penitentiary. That at Pittsburg, on the +Ohio, receives those whose crimes are committed +on the western side of the Alleghany. Every +prisoner is allowed to work at his trade; or if he +have none, or one that he cannot follow in his +cell, he is allowed to choose one, and is instructed +by one of the overseers, who are all masters of +different trades. Mr. Wood, in his last report, +gives it as his opinion, that a prisoner who has +two years or upwards to remain in prison, can, +in his solitary cell, earn sufficient to clear all his +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>expenses from his admission till his discharge. +The Philadelphia system differs from that at +Sing-sing, in the state of New York. At Sing-sing, +the prisoners are brought out to work +together, but are not allowed to speak to each +other. At Philadelphia they never work together; +and from the time of his admission, one +prisoner never sees, or speaks with, another. My +English ideas were not a little startled at first, +when I found that high treason is expiable by +solitary confinement for not less than three, nor +more than six years; and that the punishment +for the second offence was solitary confinement +for ten years. Treason against the state of Pennsylvania +is here alluded to. By the articles of the +constitution, treason against the United States +shall consist only in levying war against them; +or in adhering to their enemies, giving them aid +and comfort. No person shall be convicted of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>treason unless on the testimony of two witnesses +to the same overt act, or on confession in open +court. Congress shall have power to declare the +punishment of treason, but no attainder of treason +shall work corruption of blood or forfeiture, +except during the life of the person attainted. +Treason against the United States is a capital +offence. Murder, in the second degree, that is, +murder committed in a sudden quarrel, but without +malice prepense, is punished by solitary +confinement at labour for three, and not more +than six years; for the second offence, for a +period not exceeding ten years. The punishment +for burglary is solitary confinement for not less +than two, nor more than ten years; for the second +offence, for a period not exceeding fifteen years. +For robbery, or being accessory thereto before the +fact, the period is for not less than one, nor more +than seven years; for the second offence, for a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>period not exceeding twelve years. Mayhem, +kidnapping, horsestealing, perjury, &c. are all +punished by solitary confinement for different +periods. Almost every species of forgery, or +aiding, abetting, or commanding the perpetration +of a forgery, whether it be of the coin of the state, +or have reference to the sale, utterance, or delivery, +or having in possession the metallic plate +used in the forging of any note of any bank incorporated +in the state of Pennsylvania; or forging, +defacing, corrupting, or embezzling any charters, +gifts, grants, bonds, bills, wills, conveyances, or +contracts; or defacing, or falsifying any enrolment, +registry, or record; or forging any entry +of the acknowledgment, certificate, or endorsement, +whereby the freehold or inheritance of +any person or persons may be charged; or of +counterfeiting the hand or seal of another with +intent to defraud; or the privy or great seal of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>the state of Pennsylvania, is punished with +solitary confinement for a period of not less than +one, nor more than seven years; and for the +second offence, for a period not exceeding ten +years. It is expected that few offenders will +run the risk of solitary confinement for a second +time.</p> + +<p>When first received, the prisoner is left +alone, and it seldom happens that he does not +ask for a Bible, and work, after the lapse of a +few hours. A Bible and a few other religious +books are allowed him. In a few days the withdrawal +of his employment is felt, and adopted +as a punishment, with the most obstinate and +hardened. The chaplain occasionally visits the +prisoners, and on Sundays he takes a station +whence the words of prayer and exhortation can +be heard by every prisoner in his cell, as they +echo along the vaulted roof of the corridor.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span></p> + +<p>If any punishment can be said to be dignified, +that of solitary confinement has a claim +to that epithet. Justice to society is nobly +done, not only in the removal of the prisoner +in the first instance, but, secondly, by enabling +him to return, as it were, to the world, a +wiser and a better man. The end of solitary +confinement is the reformation of the criminal, +by obliging him to think who never thought +before. If reflection can be awakened, and +conscience can obtain a hearing, its advantages +will be readily acknowledged. The prisoner is +forced to commune with his own soul: the all-powerful +voice of ridicule is absent and unheard; +remorse is not stifled, and penitence is not put +to flight, by the sneers of a dissolute companion: +with no one to admire, and applaud his resolution +to be “game”—to submit, is the only +alternative.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p> + +<p>In England the system could not, generally, I +think, succeed. The effect of solitary confinement +might be the same on the moral character +of the prisoner, but unless something like a permanent +means of getting a livelihood be secured +to him, after his removal from the prison, the +principal and best object of the punishment +would not be obtained. This would be extremely +difficult in a country of small extent, +with a superabundant population, and a supply +of labour far exceeding the demand. The +regenerated offender might, perhaps, contrive +to avoid observation; but if necessity compelled +him to labour for his subsistence, it is probable +that he would not find employment; and the +necessary consequence would be, that all his +good resolutions would vanish at the approach +of want.</p> + +<p>No country is so well adapted for the experiment +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>as the United States of America. Enterprise +is abroad in every direction, and labour +is well paid. When the period of confinement +is at an end, the criminal may wander to any +corner of that vast continent,—and go where +he will, the wages of industry are always at his +command. He is in little fear of being recognised +by his fellow-prisoners, because no prisoner +is allowed to see another. His former +associates in crime are dispersed, or in prison, or +in the grave; and the hope that attended him in +his cell is realised, by the facility of gaining a +new character, and friends who are ignorant of +his crime. It should be added to this notice of +the Penitentiary, that every cell opens into a +small paved court-yard, in which the prisoner +can take exercise; and that the system has not +been found prejudicial to health of mind or +body, as had been anticipated.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span></p> + +<p>I visited the Museum at Philadelphia, which +is said to be the best in the United States. It +contains a skeleton of the mammoth; a fine +collection of Indian curiosities and American +animals: the most extraordinary of these is, +perhaps, a specimen of the gigantic raya or ray, +or devil-fish, measuring twelve feet in length, +by fifteen in breadth; and weighing more than +2000 lbs. In the gallery are arranged a number +of portraits, chiefly of distinguished Americans, +which are said to be admirable likenesses; but +certainly not valuable as paintings. I was +much better pleased altogether with the museum +belonging to the Academy of Natural Sciences. +It is much smaller than the other, but far more +scientifically arranged.</p> + +<p>The Dock-yard at Philadelphia contained, +when I visited it, a sixty-gun frigate, nearly +finished; and the Pennsylvania, a four decker, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>with a round stern, also in an unfinished state, +and destined to carry one hundred and forty-four +guns. This enormous vessel is two hundred +and twenty feet in length, and fifty-eight across +the main-beam. Her timbers seemed light, in +proportion to her immense size; they certainly +do not appear to be thicker than those of an +ordinary British seventy-four. The great +strength of the knees, however, are said to +compensate for the apparent weakness of her +other timbers. There were no workmen employed +upon her, and saltpetre was strewed +over her wherever it would lie. She is larger +than the old Santissima Trinidad, destroyed at +Trafalgar; but not so large as a Turkish ship +of the line, launched, I believe, since the battle +of Navarino. All the guns of the Pennsylvania +will be thirty-two-pound carronades on the +spar-deck, and long guns on the others. Her +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>anchor weighs more than 11,000 lbs. With +such a tremendous weight of metal, it is probable +that she would not be able to stand the wear +and tear of the long blockades in which many +of our ships were employed during the war.</p> + +<p>The timber of the live-oak, so called from +its being an evergreen, is supposed to be imperishable. +This tree grows almost exclusively +in the Southern States; but is annually becoming +more scarce and valuable, as the extreme +slowness of its growth cannot keep pace with +the demand: the Americans will probably find +themselves obliged to plant it, before another +quarter of a century has elapsed.</p> + +<p>The following treatment of the different +kinds of timber used in the American navy is +recommended in the report of the Secretary +of the Navy for 1829. Live-oak should be +immersed for twelve months in water, then +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>taken up and placed under cover to protect it +against sun, rain, and high winds. Its immersion +is recommended by the fact that it +renders it less liable to split. White-oak which +is inferior to the British white, or navy-oak, +should be docked about eighteen months in +fresh, or two years in salt water; then taken up +and sawed into such sizes as may be required, +then placed under cover for about two or three +years. Yellow pine should be docked about +twelve months; then taken up, sawed, and +covered for two years. Mast timber should be +immersed and covered in mud till wanted for +use. All timber ought to be cut when the +greatest portion of sap is in circulation, at some +time from the first of November to the end +of February; it should then be immersed in +water, and never taken out but early in the +spring: and it was given as an opinion, that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>if all timber underwent this process, the ships +might last double the time they otherwise would.</p> + +<p>I went to both the principal theatres, but +did not think that either they or the performances +were as good as at New York. I saw +Mr. Cooper, the famed American actor, in some +old play, of which I forget the name. His voice +is extremely good: I remember that I thought +him dignified, but rather stiff, without however +being the least awkward in his acting. I also +saw young Burke, as Doctor Pangloss. His +acting I thought admirable, and most humourous; +and his violin playing is quite extraordinary +for his age. His tragedy is very little +inferior to his comedy.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The United States’ bank at Philadelphia is a +beautiful building, being a copy from the Parthenon, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>with such alterations as were absolutely +indispensable in order to render it fit for purposes +of business. It has no side columns; but the +portico is a splendid specimen of the Doric. The +Ionic pillars in the interior, were brought from +Italy. The present United States’ bank, was +incorporated by Act of Congress on the 10th of +April, 1816, and is chartered till the 3d of +March, 1836. It paid a bonus to Government +of 1,500,000 dollars. Its capital is 35,000,000 +dollars, divided into 350,000 shares of 100 dollars +each; 70,000 shares were subscribed by +government, which therefore became a proprietor +of one fifth. After a thorough investigation of +the right of Congress to pass an act of incorporation, +this bank was first called into existence +in the year 1791, when General Washington +was president; and its charter expired in the year +1811. The two opposing parties of Federalist +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span>and Democrat had in effect began to show themselves, +though not exactly by those names, in +1787. In 1790, Mr. Hamilton, the secretary of +the treasury, made his celebrated report on the +state of the public debts contracted during the +revolutionary war. He proposed that the debts +of the continental Congress and those incurred by +the States individually, should be funded by the +general government, and that the interest should +be paid by taxes on articles of luxury and on +ardent spirits. This, it was thought, would give +too much power to the Federal government, in +opposition to the rights of the States separately +considered; and it was on account of their conflicting +opinions respecting this federal measure, +that the two parties who supported or opposed +the new constitution, first acquired the names of +Federalist and Democrat. Their first differences +under these appellations, were on the bank question, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>which afterwards became, and is now to a +certain extent, a test of political principle. Its +establishment had been opposed on constitutional +grounds by Mr. Jefferson and Mr. Madison; by +the former in the executive cabinet, and by the +latter in congress, and both distinguished Democrats. +It was asserted that congress had no +power to create corporations. The Federalist +was in favour of a liberal construction of the +articles of the constitution, and an extension +of the powers thereby vested in the federal +assembly or congress of the United States, in +opposition to what are termed state rights, +or powers claimed separately by the states +in their individual capacity. The federalist +was said to be friendly to Great Britain, and +to be indifferent to the principles of the French +revolution. He was in favour of the Alien law, +by which the president was enabled to compel +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>suspected foreigners to leave the country; and +of the Sedition law, which provided for the +prosecution and punishment of false and malicious +accusations against the president and +members of congress. In fact, these measures +were passed by congress during the administration +of John Adams, who succeeded General +Washington, and was the second and last +of the federal party elected to the office of +president. The democrat regarded the principles +of the federalist as far too aristocratical +for the atmosphere of America. He was a +strict interpreter of the articles of the constitution, +and kept a careful watch, lest the federal +government, in its united capacity, should +usurp any powers which he considered as the +rights and privileges of individual states. Under +the overwhelming influence of the democrat +principles, which have been on the increase +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>more and more from the first year of Mr. +Jefferson’s presidency, the federalist party have +experienced a great decrease in number, and +their principles have lost much of their rigidity. +In fact, the two parties may be said to be nearly +extinct, even in name; the terms Federalist and +Democrat being rarely mentioned now.</p> + +<p>The federalist was always the enemy of +universal suffrage. He was for imposing a +substantial qualification on every voter; on the +principle that property, and not persons, should +be represented. In Pennsylvania for instance, +the right of suffrage is possessed by every freeman +of the age of twenty-one years, who has +resided in the state for two years next preceding, +and who within that time, has paid a state +or county tax, assessed at least six months before +the election: and a poll tax of <ins class="corr" id="TN1" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: fifty cents. per annum">fifty cents per +annum</ins>, confers this right upon individuals who +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>are not in circumstances to pay any other. +That corruption to a great extent is generated +by this system, is admitted on all hands; it is +obviously a matter of course that it should be +so. Even in democratic America there are to +be found thousands who readily acknowledge +the real causes of their prosperity to be identified +with those that have prevented this system +from figuring in its real colours; and who freely +admit that it proceeds from a comparative +exemption from taxes; an unbounded extent +of country; an admirable spirit of enterprise; +a population not too large, and a consequent +abundance of employment—not from the existence +of a peculiar political system.</p> + +<p>But to return to the subject of the United +States’ bank. When Mr. Jefferson and the +democrats came into power, the renewal of the +bank charter was discussed as a party question. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>At this period excitement was at its height; +and the federalists made themselves so conspicuous +by their indiscriminating opposition +to those measures of commercial restriction +adopted by the democrats in power, against +Great Britain, in compliance with the policy +of the new French government, that they were +considered by a large proportion of the American +nation, as the apologists for the conduct +of a country already regarded in the light of +a public enemy. Yet such was the general +opinion of the good that had been diffused +throughout the Union by the bank, that the +question of the renewal of its charter, was +only lost by the casting vote of the president +of the senate, and by one vote in the house +of representatives. In less than three years +after the expiration of the charter in 1811, +the war with Great Britain having taken place +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span>in the mean time, the finances were in a state of +incredible embarrassment; and the re-establishment +of the United States’ bank recommended +by Mr. Dallas, who was then secretary to the +treasury, received the sanction of Mr. Madison; +and the measure passed both branches of congress +during the ascendency of that very party +which was previously opposed to it.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the non-renewal of the bank +charter, bank credit to the amount of 15,000,000 +of dollars was withdrawn from the public service, +and a number of local banks immediately +sprang up.</p> + +<p>Freed from the salutary control of the +United States’ bank, they commenced a system +of imprudent trading, and excessive issues, +which speedily disordered the currency of the +country; and notwithstanding all her resources, +and all her patriotism, in the last year of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span>last war, the United States were on the eve +of bankruptcy, solely for the want of some +national institution that would have assisted the +exigences of government, and supported a circulating +medium of general credit throughout +the Union. The loss of the United States +during the three years when there was no bank, +was estimated at not less than 46,000,000 of +dollars, sustained exclusively by want of a sound +currency and an efficient system of finance.</p> + +<p>The United States’ bank has established +branch banks at twenty-two of the principal +commercial cities of the Union. When it was +first opened there were, as we have seen, but +two parties in the country, both acting from +motives purely patriotic. The number is now +increased, and interest is not now, as it was +then, left out of the question. The bank +charter does not expire till 1836; but the sentiments +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span>of the president on the subject of its +renewal, which so deeply involves the commercial +happiness of the Union, cannot but be +speculated upon with peculiar interest, even at +this distance of time.</p> + +<p>It is said that General Jackson is unfavourable +to its renewal. In his message of 1830 he +expressed an opinion, that the bank had failed in +the great end of establishing an uniform and +sound currency. This is supposed to have reference +merely to the circumstance of the bank, +not in all cases redeeming the bills issued by +any one of its branches indiscriminately at all +the others. But it would be an obvious injustice +to oblige the bank to any such measure: +the attempt would be quite incompatible with +its existence; as it is evident, that if the exchange +were unfavourable in one State, and +favourable in another, the flow of notes from +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>the State where it is unfavourable, would soon +suspend or contract all the operations of the +bank; and the very evil of an inequality of the +currency, which the establishment was designed +to remedy, would be increased by a vain attempt +to perform impossibilities. I need not, however, +pursue this subject further; but will only +add, that all reasoning and experience seem to +favour a belief in the advantages which the +banking establishment has conferred on the +country. It is, besides, in possession of a considerable +surplus fund, after deducting seven per +cent., which will enable it to meet any contingences +that may arise. In lieu of the United +States’ bank, an establishment to be termed a +national bank, founded on the credit of the +government and its revenues, has been proposed +by General Jackson and others. Five hundred +agents are employed at the present moment in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span>transacting the affairs of the United States’ bank; +but the enormous increase of patronage which +would accrue to the government by the establishment +of the proposed National bank, would be +nothing in comparison with the power that would +be vested in it, from its having under its control +the dispensation of bank accommodations to the +amount of at least 50,000,000 of dollars. When +these consequences are considered, it is difficult +to conceive how such a plan could find support +among the subjects of a government professing +to be thoroughly democratical.</p> + +<p>The society of Philadelphia is, taken all +together, the best in the United States. The +gay season is during the winter months. Balls +and concerts are then frequent and well attended: +in this respect I was unfortunate, as I was in +that city in May—but I was partly recompensed +for my loss, by the promenade in Washington +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>Square, which, although shady enough, and +prettily laid out, is not what the most <ins class="corr" id="TN2" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: fashionble">fashionable</ins> +promenade in Philadelphia ought to be;—and +I could not but remark, that the display of +beauty and elegance to be seen there about +six o’clock on the afternoon of a fine day, was +most richly deserving of a better place of parade. +I cannot in conscience assert that, as far as it +went, I thought it equal, and yet I am scarcely +willing to pronounce it inferior, to the splendid +cortège of Kensington gardens.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>I had come to the conclusion that I should +not be able to descend the Mississippi to New +Orleans. By the time that I should arrive +there, the extreme heats of an American summer +would have been prevailing in that very unhealthy +climate, and a stranger is almost certain +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span>to be attacked by fever and ague. The voyage +down the river occupies five or six days; the +voyage up the river is not performed in less +than ten or twelve; and I was consoled by +learning that the voyage is exceedingly tedious, +as the low banks offer no variety of scenery +for many days—so much so, that upon rising +in the morning, a person might almost be +persuaded he had not moved from that part +of the river where he had been the previous +evening. I therefore determined to make a +tour through part of Pennsylvania: I had heard +much of the beauty of the scenery, of the trout +fishing, and “all that,” and accordingly having +engaged a place in the coach to Harrisburg, +the capital of the State, I started by it, at the +nondescript hour of two in the morning, and +arrived at Harrisburg the same evening. The +road lay through a well-cultivated, but not particularly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span>interesting country; at least I did not +think so, for it rained in torrents the whole +morning; and although I was inside the coach, +one arm was completely wet through, in consequence +of the oilskin panels being but loosely +fastened. The great heat of summer renders +it necessary that the conveyances should be as +airy as possible; the panels, which are made +either of leather or oilskin, are rolled up in dry +weather; but the “gentleman in the corner” +sometimes comes off very badly on a cold or +rainy day. In addition to this, it must be +remembered that the American coaches usually +carry nine inside, and do not afford too much +liberty to the legs. The three passengers who +sit in the middle, lean their shoulders against +a broad leather strap, which passes across the +coach; and as this occasionally gets unhooked +in passing over a forest road, their heads are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>instantly thrown in contact with the stomachs +of those who are behind them.</p> + +<p>The most considerable place we passed was +Reading, which has much the appearance of a +second-rate country town in England. Viewed +from the Sunbury road, by which I returned to +it in my way back to Philadelphia, its situation, +in a fine surrounding country, appears to much +greater advantage. We passed no other place +of note but Lebanon; in the vicinity of which is +to be found some of the finest arable land in +Pennsylvania. Harrisburg is delightfully situated +on the Susquehanna. It was here for the first +time I saw that beautiful river; in breadth about +three quarters of a mile. Its clear and shallow +stream is not really slow, but at a little distance +it appears as tranquil and unruffled as the surface +of a lake. Immediately opposite to Harrisburg +is an island, from either side of which a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span>long wooden bridge is thrown to the opposite +bank of the river. Harrisburg is the capital of +Pennsylvania, and is a thriving, neat and pretty-looking +town, containing about four thousand +inhabitants. The House of Assembly, or Capitol, +as it is always called in America, is built on +an eminence. The sittings of the senate and +house of representatives of Pennsylvania were +held first at Philadelphia, then at Lancaster, and +subsequently for nearly the last twenty years at +Harrisburg, which, from its central situation, has +been found much more convenient. The chamber +where the representatives hold their sittings +is very large, with separate desks for every two +or three members, disposed in a semicircle, in +the same manner as in the French chamber of +deputies. The chair in which the Speaker sits +was filled by the celebrated patriot John Hancock, +when he presided in the assembly, by the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>members of which the declaration of independence +was signed in the state-house at Philadelphia. +The senate and representatives had just +finished their sittings, after having passed only +two hundred and sixty-seven Acts. I saw a list +of them. They chiefly related to internal improvements; +and many of them made honourable +provision for old soldiers, or the widows and +families of old soldiers, who had served in the +revolutionary war. An experiment, which would +have been deemed serious in an older country, +was on the eve of trial: an Act had been passed +for levying a tax on personal property throughout +the state. The bulk of the taxes had +hitherto been paid by the land owners, and a +new assessment made once every three years. +The annual tax is at the rate of one, two, or +three dollars the acre, according to the value of +the land. The owner of personal property only, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span>however, enjoyed an immunity, of which the +present measure was intended to divest him, by +making him pay a tax of one dollar in a thousand. +Every individual will be obliged to swear to +the amount of his personal property; and should +he be supposed to swear falsely, an officer will +be empowered to compel the production of any +deed, bond, note, or bill, or of any writing +being evidence of a debt owing to him. However, +the general opinion seemed to be, that the +graceless impost would be acquiesced in as one +of fairness and necessity. On account of the +enterprise of canals, railroads, and other improvements, +the state debt of Pennsylvania is +larger than that of any other of the Union, +amounting to 14,463,161 dollars,—the debt of +New York amounting to nearly 9,000,000 dollars. +The individual State debts are very likely +to be increased rather than diminished, in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span>end; but as no State debt has in any instance +been increased except for the purposes of internal +improvements, the augmentation of the +debt will but add eventually to the prosperity +and wealth of the State. Suppose any state, +New York for instance, were to borrow 4,000,000 +dollars for some public work, as a canal or rail-road, +at a fixed rate of interest, and that the +capital borrowed were to be reimbursable in the +year 1850. Such a rate of tonnage would be +levied on the canal or railroad as would, after +payment of the interest, leave a sinking fund +available for the redemption of the capital borrowed, +and the State would be left in possession +of a large tract of country rendered productive +and valuable on account of the additional facility +afforded for the carriage of produce to market. +Once only since the formation of the constitution, +and during the presidency of John +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>Adams, has a direct and general property-tax +been imposed by the federal government in time +of peace.</p> + +<p>The view from the dome of the capitol at +Harrisburg is very fine; but a much better is +obtained from the summit of a hill about a mile +behind the town, although, perhaps, the town +itself is not seen to such advantage. A great +part of the surrounding country is very well +cultivated; corn-fields, pasture, and woodlands, +are distributed over hill and hollow; and occasionally +here and there is perceived a small +farm-house, of a neater and more English appearance +than any I had yet seen. On every +side the landscape is terminated as usual by a +boundless forest. The Susquehanna seems to +lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains; +and throughout the whole of its course, which +is visible for a great distance, its banks and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span>beautiful islands are clothed with the richest +foliage to the water’s edge. I proceeded along +the north bank of the river towards Duncan’s +Island, and after a ride of eight or nine miles, +I arrived at the gap I have just mentioned. +Its scenery forcibly reminded me of the Rhine +at Drachenfells. The abrupt and lofty hill on +the left is not surmounted by a “castled crag,” +but it overhangs, perhaps, a nobler river, whose +banks are covered with the forest trees of America, +instead of being formally scarped for the +culture of vines, trimmed like gooseberry bushes. +At a short distance from the gap, the river is +crossed by an enormous wooden bridge of eight +arches, which is very nearly half a mile in +length. The bridges in America are usually +of wood, of admirable construction, neatly +painted, and covered over like many of the +bridges in Switzerland. The piers are of stone +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span>of great size, and buttressed towards the stream. +This bridge is the largest of the kind I have +seen any where.</p> + +<p>In the garden of the inn, or tavern, as it +is usually called, is an Indian tumulus, about +fifteen feet in height, hemispherical in shape, +and evidently once much higher. These tumuli +are to be seen in various parts of Pennsylvania, +and in fact, in all parts of America; +often two are found at no great distance from +one another. At Liverpool, in that state, are +two of them, about three quarters of a mile +apart; but one had been ploughed over by +the Gothic proprietor of the soil. At first it +is not difficult to infer from this, that a great +battle had taken place in the vicinity, and that +each party had adopted this place for the burial +of the dead,—that universally, and eternally +distinguishing characteristic between mankind +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>and those of the brute creation that make the +nearest approaches to humanity. Where, however, +they are found singly, the researches of +Mr. Jefferson and of others, induce us to believe +that they were heaped together upon other +occasions. In one which he opened, Mr. Jefferson +conjectures that there might be as many +as a thousand skeletons; and appearances indicated +that it had derived its origin and enlargement +from a custom of collecting the bones of +the dead on the spot at different times. They +were deposited in layers, but in the utmost +confusion of relative position; the bones of the +most distant parts of the body being crowded +together. Those of infants and half-grown +persons were found among them. These tumuli +are sometimes composed of earth, and sometimes +of loose stones, like the cairn and carnedd of +Scotland and Wales.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span></p> + +<p>The conjecture, that they were either raised +over the dead in battle, or in accordance +with the custom supposed by Mr. Jefferson, +is the more probable, on account of the bones +being always found in quantities. The European +tumuli, of whatever age or nation, +have either been heaped up over the ashes of +some distinguished person, or are found to +contain but a few coffins, of rough-hewn and +loose stone. In America, I believe, none are +supposed to cover the remains of one person +only, deeply buried as in Europe, under the +superincumbent mass; but in the tumuli of +America the external coating of earth will easily +crumble away when disturbed, and will frequently +discover the bones at a trifling depth +beneath the surface. Arrows and other implements +of war are frequently found amongst +them. The formation of these tumuli is no +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span>where understood to be a modern custom. The +Indians have a feeling of reverence for them, +and use them as land marks; but the most aged +are unable to furnish any clue to the discovery +of their antiquity. The knowledge of their +own ancestors is confined to three or four generations, +and nothing certain is known of the +aborigines who formed these tumuli. Humboldt +himself, in his “New Spain,” after a learned +dissertation on the subject, is obliged to admit +that “the general question of the first origin of +the inhabitants of the continent, is beyond the +limits prescribed to history, and is not perhaps +even a philosophical question.” There can be +no doubt that they were a distinct race, and more +civilised than the wild Indians of the present +day, whose Asiatic origin is also a subject of +dispute. Humboldt believes that the analogy +between the languages of Tartary and those of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>the new Continent extends to a very small +number of words. He adds, that the want of +wheat, oats, barley, rye, and of all those nutritive +gramina which go under the name of cereal, +seems to prove that if Asiatic tribes passed into +America, they must have descended from pastoral +people. We see in the old continent, +that the cultivation of cereal gramina, and the +use of milk were introduced as far back as we +have any historical records. The inhabitants of +the new continent, cultivated no other gramina +than maize. They fed on no species of milk, +though the lamas alpacas, and in the north +of Mexico and Canada, two kinds of indigenous +oxen, would have afforded them milk +in abundance. These are striking contrasts +between the Mongol and American race. However, +in the Transactions of the Literary and +Historical Society of Quebec, there has lately +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>been published a “Catalogue of a few (ninety-six) +remarkable instances, which induce a belief +of the Asiatic origin of the North American +Indians. By Major Mercer, R. A.” These I recommend, +as they are very interesting. Robertson +says that “the Esquimaux Indians, are the +only people in America who, in their aspect and +character, bear any resemblance to the Northern +Europeans.” They differ from all the other +Indian tribes in their language, disposition, and +habits of life. He thence infers the probability +of their having originally passed over from the +North-west of Europe, and adds, “that among all +the other inhabitants of America, there is such +a striking similitude in the form of their bodies, +and the qualities of their minds, that notwithstanding +the diversities occasioned by the +influence of climate, or unequal progress of +improvement, we must pronounce them to be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>descended from one source—the north east of +Asia.” It may be here added, that Cuvier, when +speaking of the mouflon of the Blue Mountains, +informs us, that it is the only quadruped of any +size, the discovery of which is entirely modern, +and gives it as his opinion, that perhaps it is only +a Siberian goat that has crossed the ice.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The junction of the Susquehanna and Juniata +rivers, takes place at Duncan’s Island. The +latter is a much smaller river, varying from one +to two hundred yards in breadth. In some +places its thickly forested banks rise to a great +height above the gloomy-looking stream, whose +dark placidity is occasionally disturbed by small +rapids, or falls, as they are termed, though they +hardly deserve the name. I observed a sunken +raft, and one solitary fish-hawk (osprey). The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>road continues along the side of the Juniata for +several miles; it then leaves it, and conducts the +traveller to Lewistown. I observed nothing +remarkable in this place. Its situation, however, +is picturesque, as it is surrounded with abrupt +hills and rising grounds of different elevation, +with plenty of forest, as usual. The distance +from Lewistown to a place called Brown’s Mills, +is not more than five miles. Here I found an +excellent country inn, kept by an Irishman, and +a most delicious trouting stream, running rapidly +through the woods, and emerging close to the +inn. It is wadeable in every part, and swarms +with trout, some of them weighing more than +three pounds. Those killed with a fly, do not +average more than half a pound in weight; but +it is no uncommon occurrence to kill five or six +dozen in two or three hours. When I was there, +and in fact during the whole time I passed in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span>Pennsylvania, the season was early, and the +weather cold and unfavourable, so that I killed +but very few fish. A severe walk of twenty-five +miles through the forest, and across a range of +hills known by the name of the Seven Mountains, +brought me to Belfont; a large and thriving +town, conspicuous from being placed on a hill +in the midst of a very pretty country. Close to +Belfont are three full mountain streams, or +creeks, as they are called in America. Spring +creek in particular, contains an enormous quantity +of trout, of about the same size as those at +Brown’s Mills; but the weather was still +unfavourable, and it was all in vain that I waded +down the stream for nearly four miles. I took +but seven or eight moderate-sized fish. The red +hackle is considered the best general fly. The +other streams are known by the names of the +Bald Eagle, and Logan’s creek. The former +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>takes its name from a bald eagle’s nest, that was +annually built in the vicinity, or, which is more +probable, from a tribe of Indians so called, who +resided there. At the head waters of the other +creek, is still seen the place of residence of the +celebrated Mingo chief, Logan,—whose eloquent +message to Lord Dunmore, is too well known +to need insertion here. Many of the aged +inhabitants of Belfont still remember him. His +fate resembled that of Demosthenes and Cicero: +he perished for his eloquence. An old officer +of the United States army, who, soon after the +close of the revolutionary war, was ordered +to make surveys of the country watered by +the Alleghany river, informed me that Logan’s +nephew, a remarkably fine young Indian, dined +with him one day in his tent, and that he +asked him what became of Logan. I killed +him, was the reply. Why did you kill him?—The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span>nation ordered it. For what reason?—He +was too great a man to live: he talked so +well, that although the whole nation had intended +to put any plan in execution, yet, if +Logan did not approve of it, he would soon +gain a majority in favour of his opinions. Was +he not then generally in the right?—Often; +but his influence divided the nation too much. +Why did they choose you to put him to death? +If any one else had done it, I would certainly +have killed him: I, who am his nephew, shall +inherit his greatness. Will they not then kill +you also?—Yes: and when I become as great a +man as Logan (laying his hand on his breast +with dignity), I shall be content to die! He +added, that he shot him near the Alleghany +river. When informed of the resolution of the +council of his nation, Logan stopped his horse, +drew himself up in an attitude of great dignity, +and received the fatal ball without a murmur.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span></p> + +<p>From Belfont I proceeded on foot over the +mountains to Philipsburg, on the western slope +of the Alleghany ridge. The distance was about +twenty-eight miles. After walking for several +hours along the side of the Bald Eagle creek, I +arrived at the foot of the Alleghanies. They +are composed of sandstone, and are more extensive +than any in the States on this side of the +Rocky Mountains, though their height is inconsiderable. +The most elevated part of the ridge +in Pennsylvania does not, as I have said before, +exceed 1300 feet; but at the other peak, in Virginia, +it rises to 3950 feet above the level of the +great western rivers, being two or three hundred +feet higher than Ben Lomond. The High Peak +on the Rocky Mountains is the highest mountain +in the United States, and attains an elevation +of 12,500 feet. Mount Washington, the +highest of the White Mountains, is 6234 feet +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span>in height; Mansfield, in Vermont, the most +lofty of the Green Mountains, is somewhat +higher than Ben Nevis in Scotland, as it +rises to 4279 feet. I ascended the Alleghany +by a good road, that wound gradually up the +side of the mountain, and after a walk of about +three hours and a half, I was in full contemplation +of the most extensive forest view I had +ever yet beheld. I have seen many of the dark +and impenetrable pine forests in the north of +Europe, where the mountains are far higher, +and the scenery proportionably grander, but I +never remember a forest so interminable as that +I am speaking of. One small patch of cultivation +was perceivable in a very distant valley, +called, I believe, Penn’s Valley. The vast +thickets of Norway, Sweden, and Russia, are +chiefly of pine trees, and are grand and gloomy +enough, but sometimes tiresome from their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>monotony. Nature has painted them with her +usual ability; but the colouring she has employed +may be compared to that of a drawing +in Indian ink, equally creditable to the artist, +but not so pleasing to the eye as a many-tinted +picture. There are plenty of pines on the +Alleghany, but there is also an immense assemblage +of other trees. A lady informed me, that +being desirous of sending to England specimens +of the different woods of this part of the country, +she collected fifty-two without any difficulty; but +there are many more than these. The principal +material of the American navy is, as I have +before noticed, afforded by the live-oak, so called +from its being an evergreen, and from its elasticity, +extreme durability, and other generous +properties. The leaf of this tree resembles the +ilex of Spain and England, but is rather larger, +and more pointed. It is not found in Pennsylvania—growing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>in the southern States chiefly, +in Georgia and the Carolinas, whence it is conveyed +to the different dock-yards of the Union.</p> + +<p>There are here, nevertheless, more than +thirty varieties of the oak, each bearing a distinct +fruit: of these, the white-oak, which is +inferior in quality but comes the nearest to the +navy-oak of Great Britain; the red-oak, the +black, and the rock, or scrub-oak, are the most +common. The other trees of the forest, are +usually the Spanish-chestnut (two varieties)—the +horse-chestnut is not indigenous in America, +but thrives well; I saw one at the Manor near +Baltimore—the hickory (two varieties); the +black-walnut; the American-poplar, or tulip-tree, +the pride of the American forest, and +growing frequently to an enormous size; yellow, +white, spruce, and hemlock pines—the larch is +not found, or is rarely to be met with, in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>United States: I have not seen them in the +Canadas—bass-wood, or common English-lime; +sugar-maple, white maple, red and white elm, +willow, sassafras, black and yellow birch, ash, +gum-tree, beech, iron-wood, mulberry, dog-wood, +rhododendron in great quantities, kalmea, +latifolia, hazel, red and white cedar, clematis, +virginiana, indigo, and a great variety of ferns +and wild vines.</p> + +<p>In the autumn, or fall, as it is universally +and prettily termed in America, the forest view +is excessively beautiful, in consequence of the +brilliant assemblage of colours exhibited by the +diversity of foliage collected together. My eye +roved over a constant succession of mountain +and valley, and hill and hollow, all alike clothed +in the glorious forest garb, whilst the more +distant tints became bluer and bluer, till they +faded away at the farthest verge of the horizon. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span>The Indian had long been driven or bought out +from this part of the country; but the rocks and +thickets of the forest beneath me had doubtless +concealed many an ambush, and witnessed many +a carnage. They had responded to the sharp +twang of the rifle, and re-echoed the more terrific +war-whoop; but during the time that I +remained on the top of the mountain, all around +me was as silent as the place was solitary, with +the exception of the occasional stroke from the +peaceful axe of the back-woodsman, that resounded +from a glade about a mile from the +spot where I had sat down to rest myself.</p> + +<p>I soon afterwards passed the Moshanan +Creek, in which an expert fisherman on a favourable +day can kill any quantity of trout he +pleases. Beside the bridge, is a small and solitary +tavern, kept by an Englishman from Gloucestershire. +With him resides an old man +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>named Joseph Earl, a complete specimen of the +real backwoodsman; just such a character as +Leatherstocking, in Mr. Cooper’s novel. He +will take his rifle and his knapsack, and frequently +absent himself for weeks at a time in +search of game. If he kill a deer, he will carry +off the skin, and hang up the venison in a secure +place, and from his intimate acquaintance with +the mountains, and every settler who lives in +them, no long time elapses before he can command +any assistance he may require. The principal +tenants of the forest are the cougar or +painter (panther), as it is very improperly +termed; the bear, the wolf, the lynx (called the +cat-a-mount), the wild cat, the marmot, the racoon, +the opossum, and red and grey foxes. The +deer, which in some places is very abundant, is +the <ins class="corr" id="TN3" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: cerous virginianus">cervus virginianus</ins>, a species unknown in +Europe, of a size between the red and common +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>fallow deer, with a small palmated horn. Beside +this there are but two species of deer found +in the eastern States, the moose deer, or great +Siberian elk, and the American elk, four of +which were exhibited in London some years +ago under the coined name of wapiti, and which +have bred very well in England. Other kinds +of deer, and goats, and sheep, and an antelope +from the Rocky Mountains, are exhibited in the +Zoological museum. The reindeer is found in +the colder latitudes of Lower Canada, where it +exists in large herds. A species of stag of +gigantic size, with enormous horns, which Humboldt +considers as a distinct species, is very +common in the forests and plains of New California. +He thinks it probable that the horns +which were displayed by Montezuma to the +companions of Cortez, as objects of curiosity on +account of their immense size, belonged to this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>animal. A species of the same genus as the +European chevreuil, or roebuck, is also found in +Canada and some of the States. It is larger, and +longer eared than the European animal. Of the +cervus virginianus, or common deer of America, +a single hunter will sometimes kill two or three +in a day; but will more often go without a shot, +as they are very wild, and their sense of smelling +exceedingly acute. A still day is unfavourable; +a windy day is the best, as the sportsman +can then come very near them on the windward +side. The cougar is their greatest enemy, but +is luckily not very common. A few years ago +an American gentleman who had taken up his +shooting-quarters at the tavern I have just mentioned, +wounded a deer, and tracked it by the +blood. On coming up with it, he observed a +cougar on the animal; he fired, and had the +satisfaction to see it drop dead. When he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>approached, he saw another, that had crouched +behind the body of the deer. He disabled him, +and killed him with the third shot. As he was +returning, he killed another deer, and brought +all the four skins with him to the tavern. The +old Englishman shewed me the scalp of a deer +that had been killed during the last season: a +cougar was in full pursuit of him; and the deer +took to the water close by the tavern. The +cougar sprang on him in the water, but made +off when he saw one of the old man’s sons approaching +with a rifle, from which the poor deer +received his death-wound immediately afterwards. +I found that there was a penalty of five +dollars for killing a deer at this season of the year.</p> + +<p>The winged game of these forests are—the +wild turkey, which being pursued with avidity +by the sportsman, is becoming more scarce every +day: it is larger than the tame turkey, and its +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>plumage closely resembles that of the dark-coloured +domesticated bird, but is rather more +brilliant; the pheasant, which is a species of +wood-grouse; the partridge, which should rather +be termed a quail, but which is, in fact, as I +have hereafter noticed, neither one nor the +other; the woodcock, snipe, pigeons, and wild +fowl, in great abundance.</p> + +<p>The largest snakes found in these forests, are +the rattle-snake, the copper-head, or moccasin-snake, +so called from its yellow colour, resembling +that of the moccasin, or Indian sandal; and +the black-snake. The latter grows to the length +of seven or eight feet, and even longer. It +moves with great rapidity, is a species of the +boa-constrictor, and its habits and manner of +taking its prey are similar to those of that tremendous +reptile. The bite is not poisonous. +The copper-head is a very dangerous snake, as +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>it gives no warning like the rattle-snake. Its +name is its description, as far as it goes. Its +length is about three feet. The rattle-snake is +too well known to need much description: it +invariably raises its tail and rattles before it +strikes, so that, in general, it can be easily +avoided. The Indians consider this as proof of +its noble nature, and accordingly they never +destroy it, believing that it has something divine +in it. A large rattle-snake would measure four +feet in length, perhaps, or a little more, but is +very thick in proportion. When about to attack, +it suddenly coils itself, with the tail raised, and +rattling in the middle of the coil, and can strike +from nearly its whole length. It is a very +spirited animal; and from its moving but slowly +out of the way, is destroyed with little difficulty. +Much has been said of the extreme danger of +its bite, and of the number of persons bitten; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>but like the accidents from canine madness in +England, they are far more often heard of than +met with. It is most probable that a person +would die, unless immediately assisted,—or have +at all events a very narrow escape, if bitten on +any part of the body that happened to be naked; +but if struck through his clothes, so great a +proportion of poison is by them absorbed, or +prevented from coming in contact with the +blood, that the bite, if taken in time, is not +dangerous.</p> + +<p>It is a well known and singular fact, that +the body of a person bitten, will sometimes +change whilst under the influence of the poison, +to the colour of the snake that bit him. The +plant called the rattle-snake weed (bidens frondosa) +is a remedy used by the Indians, and +sometimes, I was credibly informed, with great +effect. The leaves and root are boiled in milk +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span>and used as a poultice; the milk is also taken +internally. In Mr. Pratt’s botanical garden at +Philadelphia, I saw a specimen of another plant +which is also considered efficacious (polygela +senaga) called by the French “l’herbe a serpente +a sonnettes.” It grows in damp and shady +parts of the woods, to a height of about two +feet; has a small pointed leaf, and a single +fusiform root, resembling a piece of stick-liquorice. +I was, however, assured by a physician +of eminence at Philadelphia, that the +only remedy he had never known to fail, was +the speedy application of a cupping glass to the +wound, and a large tea spoonful of ammonia +in a wine glass filled with water, administered +every hour till the symptoms took a favourable +turn. It is well known that hogs soon destroy +every snake in the woods around a settlement. +They eat them, and are seldom known to suffer +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span>from the bite, owing, it is said, to the quantity of +fat in their system. Almost every wild animal +is their enemy; small birds will often peck at +them, although at the same time credence is +certainly to be given to the stories of fascination +or terror by which small animals, such as squirrels +and birds, are sometimes rendered unable to +escape from them. Deer will crush them to +death, by jumping on them with all their four +feet brought close together. I was frequently +told that rattle-snakes were common here and +there; but still I never saw one: the fact is, +that they generally lie concealed. A person +travelling in the woods, will sometimes come +suddenly upon fifty or a hundred of them basking +on the rocks. They all retire as the cold +weather approaches, and lie torpid during the +whole winter; so that a sportsman is in no +danger from them. A French gentleman, who +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>a year or two ago was shooting grouse very +early in the season, on the mountains in New +Jersey, was suddenly struck near his hip by a +rattle-snake of the largest size; thanks to his +loose fustain trowsers, the fangs did not touch +him; the brute could not extricate itself, and +hung upon him till stunned by repeated blows +from his gun.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>Philipsburg is rapidly increasing, under the +advantages of English superintendence: it contains +about eight hundred inhabitants in the +town and environs. It is almost exclusively the +property of one English gentleman, who is +master of nearly 70,000 acres in that part of the +country. While I partook of his hospitality, I +was agreeably surprised by the circle of English +society, which I found collected under his roof. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>Several English have made Philipsburg their +place of residence. Its advantages consist in a +remarkably healthy situation on the western +slope of the Alleghanies, where the descent is so +gradual as to be hardly perceptible; an easy +and constant communication with Philadelphia, +and Pittsburgh on the Ohio; excellent trout-fishing, +and shooting in the forest; a very cheap +market (a sheep or deer can be bought for a +dollar), and excellent medical advice. Uncleared +land may be purchased at one, two, or three +dollars an acre.</p> + +<p>The large beaver dams in this neighbourhood +afford the finest pasture imaginable. They run +for several miles along the side of the Moshanan +Creek. What is now called a beaver dam, is +not merely the fence or dam which that industrious +animal had thrown across the stream, but +the whole meadow over which the water was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span>spread in consequence of its being arrested in its +course. The beaver was held sacred by the +Indians, and their habitations were probably +undisturbed for centuries. The stream, when +checked in its career by the dam which those +extraordinary animals had constructed, found its +level, of course, in every nook to which it could +gain access; and tree and shrub rotted away +with so much moisture. As the beaver was +destroyed, or driven out by the progress of +civilization, the dams gave way, and the stream +soon returned to its former channel, and the +bottom of the pond or dam is converted into a +fine meadow, exceedingly valuable for the purposes +of the grazier. A person may travel +through the forest for many miles, and will +suddenly emerge upon a green open space, with +scarcely a tree or shrub upon it, although at the +same time it be surrounded by a leafy wall of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span>the loftiest forest trees. An English gentleman +had just commenced a farm on one of these dams, +and I rode about six miles through the woods to +visit him. The place had much the appearance +of an English park, which deer and other wild +animals would frequently cross, and sometimes +within rifle-shot from his window. It was more +than a mile in length, with the shape and +appearance of a billiard table.</p> + +<p>At Philipsburg, and in the neighbourhood, +are several iron works. I visited a curious +screw manufactory there: the machine for heading +the screws was invented on the spot, and +probably there is not such another to be found +any where. It turned out about sixty screws +in a minute, and finished them off with a neatness +that would excite the surprise even of a +mechanist.</p> + +<p>I have before mentioned that Philadelphia +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span>will shortly be connected with the Ohio river, +by means of the Columbia rail-road, from which +the great Pennsylvania canal will soon be finished +to the foot of the Alleghany mountains, where +it will be joined by another rail-road, which will +pass the mountains, and communicate with +Pittsburg. Another rail-road will, most probably, +be constructed, so as to intersect the +same canal a little above Huntingdon. It will +come from the bituminous coal district, which +lies about Philipsburg and Clearfield county, +and is spread over a great extent of ground +on the western slope of the Alleghany. Plenty +of stone or anthracite coal is to be found in many +parts of Pennsylvania, and in vast quantities; +but the bituminous coal used in the transatlantic +cities is supplied either from Liverpool, from +Nova Scotia, or from Virginia. The particles +of the Virginia coal, however, are too much +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span>divided, and it more resembles the coal used +by a blacksmith, than the Newcastle coal. I +have understood that bituminous coal has been +lately discovered, although in very small quantities, +in Pennsylvania, on the eastern side of +the mountain. The anthracite coal throws out +a very powerful heat, but is very troublesome +and unmanageable, requiring a long time before +it will kindle properly; burning without flame +or smoke, and creating an unpleasant and rather +unhealthy dryness in the atmosphere of a room. +An experiment had been successfully tried in +New York, by which the anthracite coal had +been rendered subservient to the purposes of +the steam-engine. It was contrived that a +stream of hydrogen-gas, generated by part of +the engine, should flow constantly over the +burning coal, so that a powerful flame was thus +fed under the boiler. But in all cases where a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span>manageable fire is required, the bituminous coal +is far preferable. By means of the Philipsburg +rail-road, the whole country will be supplied +with this valuable mineral, at a very moderate +expense, from the inexhaustible stores on the +western slope of the Alleghany. The necessity +of making cheaper iron is becoming daily more +imperative in the United States. For this end, +to say nothing of the carriage of timber, the +Philipsburg rail-road will be very advantageous, +as it will bring down the coal to be converted +into coke, to be used in the smelting furnaces; +and it will pass through the midst of the Juniata +iron district, where more than twenty forges and +furnaces already exist in full activity; and whose +increasing importance calls for a more adequate +and expeditious mode of conveyance than it at +present commands. The whole country will be +much benefited; and independently of the real +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>and lasting advantages to be gained by the +construction of the Philipsburg rail-road, an +early attention to the plan, from the proper +quarter, will be but justice to the exertions of a +gentleman, who, with his brothers before him, +has devoted time and capital to the enterprise, +and has called into existence a highly respectable +community, and the most thriving and +useful settlement in the back woods of Pennsylvania.</p> + + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i002" style="max-width: 105.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/i104.jpg" alt="View of a river from afar near trees and some fields."> + <figcaption style="margin: 0 2em"> + <p class="noindent"> + <span>G.T. Vigne delṭ</span> + <span style="float: right">T. S. Engleheart, sculpṭ</span> + </p> + <p class="center fs150">NORTHUMBERLAND, ON THE SUSQUEHANNA, PENNSYLVANIA.</p> + <i>Published by Whittaker & C<sup>o</sup>. April 10, 1832.</i> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>I left Philipsburg, and returned to Belfont, +whence I took the road to Northumberland. In +about six hours I again came in sight of the +Susquehanna, flowing through an extensive +valley, with its lofty southern bank robed to the +very summit by a covert so thickly interwoven +as to be absolutely impassable. I proceeded +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span>down the side of the river till I arrived at the +ferry at Dunnsburg. Here I met with a piece of +singular incivility and impudence. The insolent +young Charon allowed me to place my luggage +in his leaky bark; but as I was proceeding to +take my seat, he “calkilated,” with the most disagreeable +twang (at least, I thought so) that I +had yet heard, “that I must pay him a fip (five-penny +bit) before I put my foot into his boat.” +It was all in vain that I pointed to my portmanteau, +intimating that it would be “assets” for +the payment of my passage to the other side. +Nothing would satisfy him but my fip beforehand; +and I was obliged to pay it. It appeared +that some stage-passengers had gone off without +paying, and he did not wish to be cheated a +second time. The guard who arrived with the +mail, was so enraged at his conduct, that he +actually took out one of the horses, crammed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>him through the river, and arrived safely on the +other side with the letter-bags.</p> + +<p>Within a mile or two of Dunnsburg, are +some Indian tumuli; but I did not stop to see +them. I travelled onward through a most delightful +country, abounding in black-oak; the +bark of which is sent down the river, and shipped +off in great quantities for England, where it is +used in dying. I enjoyed a very fine view +from the hill over which the road passes near +Moncey; but I afterwards saw the same prospect +to much greater advantage, from Northumberland. +This place contains about two +thousand inhabitants, and is most delightfully +situated on the neck of land that separates the +northern and western branches of the Susquehanna. +The celebrated Dr. Priestley spent the +latter years of his life in this place. He died +about twenty-five years ago. I was assured by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>an old and intimate friend of his, who was with +him but a few minutes before he died, that there +was great foundation for a prevalent belief, that +for some months previously to his death, he +changed his opinions in favour of the divinity of +Christ.</p> + +<p>Good land, in a state of cultivation, is worth +twenty, thirty, forty, or even a hundred dollars +the acre, in this part of the country. The average +profits of land amount to twelve and a half +per cent. Thirty bushels of wheat is a good +crop. The wages of the married labourer are +fifteen dollars a month (the United States dollar +is equal to 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>). Single men, who board at +the house of their employer, receive but ten. +Wherever I made inquiry, I found the rate of +labourers’ wages to be much the same throughout +the States.</p> + +<p>I crossed the western branch of the Susquehanna +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>by a new and handsome wooden bridge, +built as usual on stone piers. Its length was +1316 feet, and it cost 70,000 dollars. I then +immediately ascended the heights on the other +side. From them I had a full view of both +branches of this “shining river,” an appellation +which none deserves better than the Susquehanna. +I preferred the scenery around Moncey +to that in the direction of Wyoming. The sun +was declining behind the precipice on which I +stood, which was thrown more and more into +shade, as the red rays glanced through the +pines on its summit, and swept downward into +the broad and beautiful valley beneath me. +The windings of the river were visible to a +great distance. Although considerably larger, +it strongly reminded me of the Thames seen +from Richmond-hill. Its tranquil lake-like +stream meandered through the country, encircling +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>several islands: at one time gliding in +silence through the forest, or emerging to roll +its waters over a rich and extensive meadow, it +freshened every thing in its course; and when it +had fully performed the task of ornament and +usefulness allotted to it by nature, it seemed to +lose itself through a gap in the Blue Mountains, +from which in reality it issued.</p> + +<p>Beautiful as it is, yet, were this England, I +could not help thinking, how different would be +the appearance of the country! I am gazing on +a view, as splendid as any one of the same +character I ever beheld in any land,—I see before +me a noble river, winding its way through +an exquisite landscape, of hill and dale, and +wood and verdure, abounding in every resource +that could make a country life agreeable; but +it is in vain that my disappointed eye roves over +the scene, and rests on the most magnificent +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span>situations for park and palace: where, thought +I, are the “stately homes of England?”—where +is the marble-fronted hall, and the village +church beside it, with its spire pointing to the +heavens? The powerless genius of embellishment +wanders disconsolate along the beautiful +banks of the Susquehanna, and bitterly complains +that he is fettered by the spirit of democracy.</p> + +<p>I am far from meaning to infer in the above +passage, that there is any lack of churches in +the United States. On the contrary, they are +numerous. As an Englishman, I am here speaking +merely with reference to situation, and the +association of ideas excited in my mind.</p> + +<p>The Americans, in general, are not fond of +comparisons between England and their own +country, except in cases where the balance is in +their favour; but still, I have often observed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>that there is no subject of conversation more +gladly discussed by an American gentleman, and +more particularly by those who have country +houses of their own, than the splendour of the +seats of our nobility and gentry, and the perfection +of society which is enjoyed at them. +There is nothing in England so apt to elicit +from them a remark of honest regret, as their +knowledge of the very remote probability, I may +almost add, the utter hopelessness, of their ever +being able to boast of seats and villas at all equal +to those on this side of the Atlantic, so long as +the present form of government exists in full +force. Who would build a really splendid +mansion, which, after his death, will probably +either become a ruin, or be sold, and converted +into an hospital? or who would clear and beautify +a park of any extent, to be divided and +ploughed up by his needy successors? I have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>seen country houses in America, whose delightful +situation, and gentlemanly appearance, +(although it must be allowed, they often look +their best at a distance), only serve to render +the prospect of division the more melancholy. I +have been kindly received at many of them: I +have usually noticed a due attention to comfort +and elegance, and invariably, to kindness and +hospitality; but I have not been able to avoid a +remark, that there did not appear to be much +difference in the size of the houses, or the extent +of the grounds, as if there existed a general and +mournful acknowledgment, that a just medium +was to be observed between the expense incurred +with reference to present enjoyment, and the +probability of an ultimate loss of capital, when +the future was regarded. I could name a few, +but very few, exceptions.</p> + +<p>Whatever the Americans may think of their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>institutions in other respects, there are many sensible +Americans—and I have met with them—who +will acknowledge the inefficacy of these +to counteract the disadvantages, not to say +miseries, sometimes arising from the non-existence +of the law of primogeniture. The object +is, to exclude the preponderance of wealth, +because it tends to generate an aristocracy of +political power. The non-existence of the law +of primogeniture is, I think, with great deference, +but lamely defended by Chancellor Kent, +in his admirable Commentaries on American +Law, and which, by the way, are most richly +deserving of a place in every library, if it be +merely on account of the learned dissertations +on the history of every republic of note that +has ever existed. He quotes Adam Smith in +support of his opinions; the Marquess Garnier, +his French translator; and the Baron de Stael +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span>Holstein,—and although he acknowledges the +attendant evils, yet he says it would be an error +to suppose that they have been already felt. +But surely there are some which he does not +contemplate in his work; but which must be +acknowledged to have a miserable effect upon +the state of society. A sale, not unattended +with sacrifice, takes place at the decease of nearly +every person who dies in possession of landed +property. This is followed by a minute division +of the proceeds amongst the next of kin. As +to the law of dower, it is much the same as +that of England generally; but where the sale +has been made, the produce is considered as +real estate so far, and the widow receives an +annuity from one third in lieu of her dower. +This does not effect the distribution of the +remainder, which is divided as in England. It +often happens, that the share of each person, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span>if young, is just enough to purchase his destruction.</p> + +<p>Very frequently, but in some States more +than others, its most prominent application is +detected by the effects of a vicious indulgence +in ardent spirits, principally among the second +and lower classes. Drunkenness still prevails +to an alarming extent, notwithstanding the +benign presence of the temperate societies. I +have heard the most melancholy and appalling +accounts of its ravages in private life; and in +one place I was informed of its disgusting influence +over judicial morality. The root of the +evil is in the expectations which are formed: +it is the certainty of actual possession of property +at a future time, accompanied by ignorance +as to its amount, that so often cherishes +in the children the most dissolute habits of idleness, +with all their attendant evils. Supposing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span>both of them in the same easy circumstances as +country gentlemen, and fathers of families, how +different must of necessity be the sentiments of +an American and an Englishman, when they survey +their respective fire sides! Both see around +them their wives and children, in the possession +of affluence and comfort, and happy in the +<ins class="corr" id="TN4" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: enojoyment">enjoyment</ins> of each other’s society. But in the +event of his death, how gloomy may be the +picture drawn by the one, in opposition to that +contemplated by the other! A divided estate +and a dispersed family, present themselves to +the mind of the American; or perhaps a small +part of them living together, but unable to command +any share of the luxuries, and not many +of the comforts they enjoy during his lifetime, +in consequence of a secession of property by +marriage, or decrease of it from dissipation. +The Englishman feels a debt of gratitude to the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span>constitution of his country: in the event of +his death, his house, in the possession of his +eldest son, will be a home for his widow and a +place of meeting for his children. His younger +sons have been brought up under the idea that +they are to be the architects of their own fortunes, +and such a doctrine has not rendered them +unhappy, because it has enforced the virtue of +contentment. The law of primogeniture perpetuates, +through the eldest son, a species of +parental affection and authority; and where there +is a title to descend, there is a further inducement +to the eldest son to emulate the virtues +or the actions of an illustrious father; or, if that +father has brought disgrace upon a distinguished +name or sullied the escutcheon of a distinguished +family (which, be it added, is sometimes the +case), the son may be naturally desirous of +wiping away the stain, and of giving the benefit +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>of his example to society, by his imitation of the +character of a nobler ancestor. There is yet a +further deficiency of inducement to exertion +existing in the American, and in every other +democracy. In England, a young man in the +enjoyment of a sufficient income, and who +is consequently not obliged to labour at any +profession with a view to its increase, yet with +the possibility of obtaining a title, will exert his +abilities to the utmost; but in America, the +stimulus of titled distinction being unknown, it +must often happen that the finest talents are +doomed to remain unemployed.</p> + +<p>I crossed the north branch of the Susquehanna, +and passed on to the town of Sunbury, +on the bank of the main river, and about two +miles distant from Northumberland. Sunbury +is a very pretty country town, with a delightful +promenade along the side of the river. In all +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>parts of the vicinity there are some beautiful +prospects: near it, a very large dam has been +thrown across the stream, where, by the junction +of its two branches, it spreads out, and forms +a basin three quarters of a mile across. I observed +some fishermen hauling their nets, and +went up to them. They had taken some cat-fish, +and several salmon. The cat-fish has obtained +its name from its appearance: its head, +which is out of all proportion to its body, is +large and round, with the addition of two worm-like +appendages projecting beneath the eyes, +like the whiskers of a cat. It is altogether a +dark, ugly-looking fish; but is eatable, with a +flavour something like that of an eel, but inferior. +In the larger western rivers it sometimes +attains a weight of eighty or one hundred +pounds. The fish improperly called the salmon, +in no respects resembles the real salmon of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span>Great Britain. It has none of the peculiarities +of the salmo genus; and does not rise at a fly. +In figure it is not remarkable; in colour it is +more similar to the pike than to any fish I am +acquainted with. The weight of those usually +taken, is about a pound; but some of them are +larger. A fly-fisher would have but moderate +sport on the Susquehanna; but he might kill a +great variety of fish, if he condescended to use a +bait, and might occasionally take a large trout +with a minnow. The river contains pike and +eels, of immense size; trout, not numerous; +rock-fish, cat-fish, suckers, common and silver +perch—a beautiful fish; and a very small species +of lamprey, that is only used as a bait. The +shad is also found in great quantities in this and +almost all the rivers of the Eastern States. It is +excellent eating, and usually weighs about four +pounds; but I thought the flavour of the Susquehanna +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>salmon equal, if not superior, to any +fish I tasted in the United States. I should +almost presume that it was peculiar to that river, +as I have frequently met with natives of other +States who had never heard of it.</p> + +<p>At Sunbury, I chanced to be told that three +Yorkshiremen had just been taken up. I would +bet three to one, said I to myself, that their +crime is horse-stealing! and so it proved when +I made inquiry.</p> + +<p>I here turned my steps away from the Susquehanna, +which for placid beauty surpassed in +my opinion any other river in the States, and +proceeded towards Philadelphia, by way of +Pottsville and Reading. Scarcely more than a +year ago there were but a few houses at the +former place; but in consequence of the immediate +vicinity of enormous beds of anthracite +coal, and the improved means of conveyance +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>to Philadelphia, its size and importance had increased +in a most extraordinary manner.</p> + +<p>The country around Philadelphia is very +flat; so that I could not find a rising ground to +take a sketch from, at what I considered the +best distance. But, I think, in passing down +the river, in my way to Baltimore, I perceived a +small cliff on the left bank, that would have +answered the purpose, being distant about two +miles and a half. A view in a flat country +requires great minuteness, if it be taken correctly, +and would have occupied too much time; +besides, before commencing a drawing of either +of the larger cities in the Union, it really +became a matter of consideration, that I had +but one cake of “Newman’s light red” in my +colour-box.</p> + +<p>A fine steamer carried me down the Delaware. +About thirty-five miles from Philadelphia, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>we passed Wilmington and Brandywine. We +were then landed at the mouth of the Chesapeake +and Delaware canal, and were towed onward, at +a brisk trot, in one of the canal boats, and +soon entered the Elk river, near the head waters +of Chesapeake bay. The country was flat; and +a great proportion of it was covered with forest. +Here we went on board another steam-boat, +that rattled us along at a tremendous pace down +the Chesapeake, passing the mouth of the Susquehanna. +The captain assured me that upon +one occasion, during a camp-meeting, he had +carried no less than fifteen hundred persons at a +time; he landed them during the night, and +about two hundred got away without paying +their passage.</p> + +<p>In an hour or two, the North Point, at the +entrance of the Patapsco river, became visible. +General Ross landed here, with the British +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span>force of 5000 men, on the 12th of September, +1814, and met his death in the skirmish that +ensued shortly afterwards. I rode from Baltimore +to the spot where he fell, marked by a +small plain stone-monument, by the side of the +road. The last four miles out of fourteen +lay through a very pretty wood, affording a +most grateful shade. When we were within +two miles from the city, we passed Fort Mac +Henry, which was bombarded upon the same +occasion, almost from the extremity of the +range of a shell. Some of them, where they +fell, penetrated the ground to a depth of five +or six feet.</p> + +<p>Baltimore, when viewed from the Chesapeake, +appears to be built over several low hills, +or slopes, and surrounded by others that are +considerably higher. Its situation is much finer +than that of Philadelphia. It is not so fine as +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span>that of New York; but in some respects, is, +I think, superior to Boston. When approached +by water, the most conspicuous objects are—Washington’s +monument, the shot-towers, the +Roman Catholic cathedral, and the Unitarian +church, all scattered in different parts of the +city. Washington’s monument is a plain column +of marble, raised on a square base, 175 +feet in height, and surmounted by a colossal +statue of Washington. It is seen from a great +distance on every side, and commands the finest +and most extensive prospect; but I am very +much inclined to doubt the taste that placed any +other than an allegorical object on the top of a +lofty pillar. The size of the column, and its +simplicity, are calculated to excite admiration; +but in my humble judgment, it would have been +much better to have had a really fine statue +placed inside the base of the column, than to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span>perch the General upon a height that would +make a living Admiral feel giddy. Lord Hill’s +monument, near Shrewsbury, and that to the +memory of General Brock, at Queenstown, are, +I think, objectionable, for the same reasons. +The battle monument is much prettier, although +it is somewhat florid in its ornaments: it is +fifty-four feet in height. The column is a circular +fasces, symbolical of the Union, twined +round with fillets, bearing the names of those +who fell on the 12th and 13th of September, +1814; and supporting an allegorical statue of a +female, personifying the city of Baltimore, with +a bald eagle, the United States’ emblem, at her +side. The Archbishop of Maryland is the metropolitan +of the States. The Catholic cathedral +is a handsome building, with a dome in imitation +of the Pantheon. The inside, which is divided +into pews, contains two very good pictures from +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>the French school: a descent from the cross, +by Paul Guerin, presented by Louis XVI.; +and St. Louis burying his dead officers and +soldiers before Tunis, by Steaben, presented by +Charles X. The descent from the cross is much +and deservedly admired. It has the merit of +being free from that tedious detail that is usually +to be observed in the works of French artists, +who paint every thing as it is, and not as it +appears. It occurred to me, that the body of +Christ did not sufficiently rest on the ground, +as intended. The latter picture displays more +of the French taste. I did not like it so well, +but many prefer it to the other. At Baltimore, +is the University of Maryland, which ranks very +high as a medical school. The average expenses +of a student are one hundred and twenty dollars +per annum. It has also professors in law and +divinity. St. Mary’s College and Baltimore +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>College are also justly celebrated throughout +the Union; the latter will accommodate one +hundred and fifty students, who are instructed, +by twelve professors, in the ancient and modern +languages, mathematics, natural philosophy, &c. +The city also contains a good museum, which +I did, and many more public buildings, which I +did not visit, as I could not learn that there was +any thing in them particularly deserving of +attention. The theatre was not open.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The waters of the Chesapeake and the +Patapsco are the favourite resort of the canvas-back +duck, which I had always been told was +the greatest delicacy imaginable; and, “like +nothing else, sir! I assure ye!” The sporting +commences early in November, and affords most +excellent sport. An experienced shot will sometimes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span>kill three dozen in a morning with a +single gun; and occasionally they are shot on the +wing with a single rifle. The canvas-back duck +very much resembles the red-headed wigeon, or +common dun-bird. Lucien Bonaparte, who has +so well continued Wilson’s work on American +Ornithology, has successfully shown that it is +quite a different bird. It is about half as large +again, with a black and different formed bill and +black legs. Those of the red-headed wigeon are +of a dark lead colour. They breed on the borders +of the great lakes, or about Hudson’s Bay; +but in the winter months, they are found in +prodigious quantities on the Chesapeake, the +Patapsco, and the Potamac. Its flavour is owing +to the root of the Vallissneria Americana, or +wild celery, on which it feeds, and for which it +will dive to a depth of eight or ten feet. The +red-headed wigeon, when in company with the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>canvas-back, will often wait till it has risen from +the bottom, and then snatch from it the hard-earned +morsel. The <i>bons vivants</i> of America, talk +of the canvas-back with an interest that borders +on affection, and is sometimes very amusing. +“Sir,” said an old fellow to me, “I wished +to give a duck feast, and accordingly I bought +nine couple of them, all fresh killed, and all of +the right weight. I stuffed them into every +corner of my gig; and would not suffer the cook +to touch them, except in my presence. I dressed +them all myself, in different ways, in my parlour, +so as to have them all done according to figure, +sir! Well, sir! all my company had arrived, +except an old German; we could not wait, and +sat down without him. When he came, he +exclaimed, ‘What! noshing but duckhs!’ I +started up in a rage, sir! a violent rage, sir! +‘Noshing but duckhs!’ I repeated after him: +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span>Why, you d——d old scoundrel, said I, your +own Emperor of Austria never had such a +dinner: he could not, sir, though he gave the +best jewel in his crown for it.” I tasted these +birds several times before I quitted America, +and they certainly are extremely good. The +meat is dark, and should be sent to table underdone, +or what in America is called “rare.” I +think the flavour might be imitated by a piece of +common wild duck, and a piece of fine juicy +venison, tasted at the same time. The word +“rare” used in that sense, and which is given +by Johnson, on the authority of Dryden, is no +doubt one of many which have retained in +America, a meaning in which they are not now +used in England, but which was doubtless carried +over the Atlantic by the settlers of a +hundred years ago. I confess that I was for +some time in error. I heard every one around +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span>me giving orders that his meat should be “rare,” +and I thought it a mispronunciation of the word +raw.</p> + +<p>The environs of Baltimore are exceedingly +pretty: almost every eminence is crowned with +a country house, surrounded by gardens and +pleasure grounds richly wooded, and laid out to +the best advantage, so as generally to afford a +peep through the trees at some part of the +Patapsco, or the Chesapeake. They are admirably +adapted for a fête champêtre, or a strawberry +party, as it is called at Baltimore. I had the +honour of an invitation to the only one that was +given during my stay in that city. The company +assembled about six o’clock. Quadrilles +and waltzes were kept up with great spirit, first +on the lawn, and then in the house till about +eleven. In the mean time strawberries and +cream, ices, pine apples, and champagne, were +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span>served up in the greatest profusion. I had +understood, and am quite ready to admit, that +Baltimore deservedly enjoys a high reputation +for female beauty. I am speaking of the +American ladies in general, when I remark that +it is no injustice to them to maintain, that where +you will see twenty pretty girls, you will not see +one really handsome woman. I have frequently +observed the prettiest features,—such as more +reminded me of England, than of any other +country; but I think that most Europeans who +have formed a correct taste from the “stone ideal” +of Greece, would agree with me that ladies with +pretensions to that higher degree of beauty, are +not so often to be met with in America as in +England. There is one particular in which they +would do well to imitate my fair countrywomen. +They have great charms for the breakfast table; +but yet, elegant and lady-like as many of them +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span>undoubtedly are, how often have I been compelled +to wish, that the breakfast table had not +quite so many charms for them. They <i>must</i> +know that to eat is unfeminine; and that ladies +should in the presence of gentlemen, appear <i>very</i> +hungry, is a decided proof of a deficiency in +national manners,—just as much, or even more +so, than that men, be they who or what they +may, should sit with their hats on in the dress +circle at New York. The influence of a court +would extend to, and would remedy all this. I +should here again remark, that the first society +is seldom seen at the theatre, and would not +be guilty of such behaviour.</p> + +<p>It is a matter of great surprise to a stranger, +that there is not one single promenade at Baltimore. +There are some very eligible situations +immediately adjoining the city, and which to all +appearance are so easily convertible into a public +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>walk, that it is difficult to understand why the +ladies do not insist upon its commencement. +I would most humbly advise them to do so.</p> + +<p>I was honoured with an invitation to “the +Manor,” the country residence of Mr. Carroll, +of Carrollton. The house was built long before +the revolution, and is a curious specimen of +Anglo-American architecture, somewhat resembling +one of those large old parsonage houses +which are to be seen in some parts of England. +It stands in the midst of an extensive domain, +in a high state of cultivation, and extremely +well and neatly kept, considering that it is +worked by slaves. I could have fancied myself +in England, but for the loose zigzag fences of +split logs, which offer to the eye but a poor +apology for the English hedge row. Hedges +of any kind would not, generally speaking, thrive +well in the United States. It would be necessary, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>I was told, that they should be banked up, +in order to keep them from being washed away +by the heavy rains; and it is probable that +during the extreme heat of the summer months, +they could not obtain moisture sufficient to +preserve them from being dried up entirely. +They are, however, often to be seen close to a +gentleman’s house, where they can be constantly +attended to. I should conceive that the aloe +hedges of Spain and Portugal, might succeed in +the United States. It is neither a fault, nor a +misfortune, that there is no water scenery at +“the Manor.” The rivers and lakes of America +are usually on a vast and magnificent scale, fitted +either to bound or to deluge a continent; small +streams are also common; but a lake for instance +of a mile or two in length, is seldom to be seen, +excepting in New England, where they are +plentiful. Before I arrived there, I do not think +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>that I had seen more than half a dozen ponds, +and those all in Kentucky. Instead of being +thought an advantage, a piece of water is +avoided; no American, from choice, would build +on its banks, as the exhalations in the hot +weather render such a situation very unhealthy, +excepting in the more northerly states.</p> + +<p>At the manor I partook of that hospitality +which is so kindly and universally extended to +every foreigner who visits Baltimore with a +proper letter of introduction. Mr. Carroll himself, +is the most extraordinary individual in America. +This venerable old gentleman is in his ninety-fifth +year, is exceedingly cheerful, enjoys most +excellent health, and is in good possession of his +faculties. He is the only survivor of the patriots +who signed the Declaration of Independence on +the 4th of July, 1776. He has always adhered +to the federal principles, and his valuable estate +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>is one of the very few that have descended in +a direct line from the first possessor. Mr. Carroll +is the grandfather of the Ladies Wellesley and +Caermarthen.</p> + +<p>No one who visits Baltimore should omit +seeing the vessels known by the name of clippers. +They are uncommonly neat single-decked +schooners usually, but sometimes are rigged +like a brig. Their burden is commonly about +200 tons. They are cut remarkably sharp at the +bows, with a great breadth of beam. When lying +in the water, the head is considerably elevated +above the stern, so that, although the masts +are nearly at right angles with the hull, they +appear to rake much more than they really do. +They will sail on a wind at the rate of seven +knots an hour, when other fast sailing vessels +can make only five and a half, or six; but few +of them are good sailers before the wind. They +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>usually make a voyage to the Havannah, where +they are sold for slave ships, or to South +America, where they are bought by smugglers +or pirates, for whose occupations they are admirably +adapted. They are built nowhere so +well as at Baltimore.</p> + +<p>Two rail-roads had been commenced at Baltimore: +one called the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road, +because it was intended to join that river. +The exact line of country through which it +would pass, was as yet a secret with a select +few, who would thus be able to secure from the +owners a refusal of the land through which it +passed without being obliged to pay an increased +price. The other is called the Susquehanna +rail-road, and was intended to join that river +at York-haven, about sixty miles below Harrisburg. +Deputations have been sent from Baltimore +to Philadelphia, to obtain the necessary +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span>permission to carry it into the state of Pennsylvania; +but their applications have been, I was +informed, twice refused. The rail-road, however, +is still continued, from a well-grounded persuasion +that the inhabitants of the western parts of +Pennsylvania, convinced of the advantages that +will accrue to them by its affording them another +means of carriage for their bituminous +coal, iron, and timber, will ultimately succeed +in obtaining a majority in Congress in favour +of its completion. But does not a jealousy of +this kind arise, after a contemplation, however +distant, of the political horizon? Has it not a +prospective reference to the interest of the State +separately, when the federal government shall +be no more?</p> + +<p>By the constitution of Maryland the governor +does not possess the right of a veto over the +Acts of the general assembly.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span></p> + +<p>More flour is annually inspected at Baltimore, +than at any other port in the United +States excepting New York. The amount for +the year 1830, was 597,804 barrels; but by the +returns made since the first of January, 1831, +it is supposed that the quantity in this year will +exceed 600,000 barrels. The wheat that is +shipped, is sent almost exclusively to England; +but it bears a very small proportion to the flour, +although it sells better in the English market—about +70,000 bushels of wheat were shipped +this year for England. The quality in general +is good, excepting that a portion of it is sometimes +tainted with garlick; a nuisance that is +almost unavoidable, because the plant grows +spontaneously in the wheat districts. It is said +to have been first introduced by the Hessians, +during the revolutionary war, and it has since +increased so much, that it cannot be got rid of. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span>The wheat exported from Baltimore is grown +in the State of Maryland, and in many parts +of Virginia and Pennsylvania. Money had +been plentiful for the last two years, and investments +that would produce five per cent. were +not easily to be met with. A market overstocked +with imports from Europe and India, +was the assignable cause: trade was comparatively +less brisk, and many capitalists withdrew +their funds from active business, for the purpose +of investment in the stock of bank insurance +and rail-road companies. A great quantity of +money was likewise lying in the market in consequence +of the national debt being in a course +of reduction by the payment of government +loans. However, when I was there, money was +more scarce, and worth more than six per cent.; +the exchange on England had risen as high as +eleven per cent. per annum, and a large quantity +of specie had been exported to that country.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span></p> + +<p>At Baltimore, I first saw the fire-fly. They +begin to appear about sunset, after which they +are sparkling in all directions. In some places +ladies will wear them in their hair, and the effect +is said to be very brilliant. Mischievous boys +will sometimes catch a bull-frog, and fasten +them all over him. They show to great advantage, +while the poor frog, who cannot understand +the “new lights” that are breaking upon him, +affords amusement to his tormentors by hopping +about in a state of desperation.</p> + +<p>About thirty miles from Baltimore, on the +western shore as it is termed, stands Annapolis +the capital of Maryland. It is situated at the +bottom of a fine bay, and contains several +curious old houses, built long before the revolution. +The most conspicuous object is the +capitol, which is surmounted by a fine steeple. +The general assembly of Maryland, hold their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span>sittings there, and it was there that General +Washington resigned to the federal congress +the command he had so nobly used. It sat +there for some time after the independence of +the United States was established.</p> + +<p>At Baltimore, I visited the studies of two +very promising young artists: Mr. Hubard, an +Englishman, is certainly the better painter; but +has the advantage of four or five years of experience +over Mr. Miller, who is an American, +quite a boy; and whom, I think, at least an +equal genius. He has had little or no instruction. +If sent to Europe, as he certainly ought +to be, I will venture to predict, that at some +future period he will be an ornament to his +native city; and which he certainly never will, +or can be, if he does not leave it. Will it be +credited, that in America, with all her pretensions +to good sense and general encouragement +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span>of emulation and enterprise, the voice of public +opinion is a bar to the advantage of drawing +from a living model? Without it, historical +painting cannot thrive, and sculpture must be +out of the question.</p> + +<p>I left Baltimore with regret: I had been +kindly and hospitably treated there,—and in a few +hours the mail carried me to Washington. This +city of distances—this capital that is to be—is +laid out upon an open piece of undulating down, +on the north side of the Potomac. The capitol of +the United States is built upon the most lofty +part of it, which is ascended by a fine flight of +steps, and altogether has a very imposing appearance, +being visible at a great distance from almost +every side. It is of free-stone, which is found on +the river about thirty miles below the city. In +front is a magnificent portico of Corinthian +columns, and behind it there is another; in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span>same style, (though larger), as that at Wanstead +House in Essex, or Wentworth Castle in Yorkshire, +which is a copy of Wanstead. On the top +are three domes; that in the centre would look a +great deal better if it were deeply fluted, like the +dome of St. Paul’s; at present it would be much +better out of the way, as it gives a general +appearance of heaviness, to what would otherwise +be deservedly thought a very fine building. +From the balustrade is obtained a delightful +view of the river, and the surrounding country. +The centre of the interior of the capitol, is +occupied by a large open space under the dome, +containing four pictures, that look very well at +a little distance: the subjects are the Signing of +the Declaration of Independence, the Surrender +of General Burgoyne, the Surrender of Lord +Cornwallis; and General Washington resigning +his command at Annapolis. They are painted +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span>by Col. Trumbull. The remainder of the capitol +is occupied by the apartments and offices +connected with the senate, the house of representatives, +and the supreme court of the United +States. The pillars which support the roof of +the chamber of representatives, are of breccia, +or pudding-stone; perhaps the most singular +formation of the kind that is to be found anywhere, +not excepting that at Monserrat in Spain, +which is entirely composed of breccia. Fragments +of granite, quartz, limestone, and other +rocks, have been pressed together in the most +extraordinary manner, by some stupendous +power, and from a little distance the composition +might be mistaken for the <i>verd antique</i>. It is +found on the Potomac, about thirty miles above +Washington. The president’s house is a handsome +building, with an Ionic portico; and the +only one in the States that resembles the modern +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>residence of a British nobleman. It is +exactly at the distance of one mile and a half +in a straight line from the capitol, and the +houses are continued beyond it for nearly +another. Numerous large streets radiate from +the capitol and the president’s house, as centres—a +method of laying out a city far handsomer +than that which has been adopted at Philadelphia, +where the streets cross each other at right +angles. Who that has seen the “Perspective” +at Petersburg, can ever forget it? where the +principal streets are all pointed towards the +beautifully gilt steeple of the Admiralty, that is +seen glittering at the end of each of them. It +must be allowed that this arrangement has its +disadvantages in the shape of the houses, and +apartments, one end of which, if they are +regularly divided, must be larger than the +other.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span></p> + +<p>In the dock-yard at Washington, I saw a +sixty-gun frigate in a state of forwardness, and +a small schooner constructed on a plan that had +never been applied to a vessel of war, being of +the same shape fore and aft, and having no +internal timbers. The blocks made there, are +not all of one piece, as they are at our dock-yard +at Portsmouth. A double block for instance, is +composed of seven pieces of wood, exclusively +of the sheave. They are, no doubt, much +stronger when made in this manner; but a man +can make but one in half an hour.</p> + +<p>The college at George Town, adjoining the +city, is a Catholic establishment; its members +are Jesuits, and who, as usual, are increasing +their influence, by purchasing lands, &c. Attached +to the college, is the nunnery of the +Sisters of Visitation, containing about fifty nuns. +They tell there of a Hohenlohe miracle.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span></p> + +<p>Washington, like most of the American +cities, can boast of several beautiful rides and +walks in its vicinity. Arlington, the seat of +George Washington P. Castis, Esq., occupies a +most conspicuous and commanding situation, on +the south bank of the Potomac. It is visible +for many miles, and in the distance has the +appearance of a superior English country residence, +beyond any place I had seen in the +States: but as I came close to it, as usual, I +was wofully disappointed. It contains a valuable +portrait of Washington, when a Major in +the British service, and wearing of course the +blue-and-buff uniform.</p> + +<p>Not far from the race ground, and about +three miles from George Town, is the residence +of a gentleman who has paid greater and more +indefatigable attention to the culture of the vine +than any other person in America. The vineyards +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span>around his house produce several different +kinds of grapes; from which, considering how +few years have elapsed since the attempt was +first made, he may be said to have been very +successful in producing some very good and +palatable wines. Amongst others, the best is +dignified by the very aristocratic name of +“Tokay.” It is made from the “Catawba” +grape, which he himself first found in a cottager’s +garden, not far from a tavern bearing the +sign of the Catawba Indians, distant about +twenty miles from Washington. From this +circumstance he called it the Catawba grape. +The Catawba is a river of South Carolina, but +no grape of the kind is found near it. The +cottagers could give him no satisfactory account +of it, and he never could find out whether it was +indigenous, or, which is most likely the fact, imported. +It is rather a large grape, thick-skinned, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span>but at the same time very transparent, with a +fine purple blush, and far more fit for making +wine than to form part of a dessert. As yet it +appears to thrive better than any kind of grape +that has been tried in the United States; so +much so, that at Pittsburgh, and Lancaster, and +other places where there are vineyards, they +have cleared away a large proportion of the +European plants, in favour of the Catawba vine. +He informed me that he had sent cuttings of it +to every State in the Union excepting Florida, +Arkansaw, and Kentucky. A long time, however, +must elapse before the Americans can +compete with the wines of Europe: as yet, comparatively +speaking, little can be known there, +either with reference to the best fruit, or to the +soil and temperature necessary to bring it to +perfection. Upwards of seventy kinds of the +wild vine are found in the American forests, but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span>not more than half of them bear fruit. At +Boston I tasted a grape called the Isabella grape, +whose flavour was still harsh, but was a great +and decided improvement in every respect, upon +the sourness of the fox-grape of the woods, from +which, I was informed, it had been originally +produced. I am, of course, speaking of the +Catawba and other grapes, only in their wine-making +capacity; the grapes raised in the +United States for the table, are exceedingly +good and very plentiful.</p> + +<p>As a matter of course, I visited Mount +Vernon. A steam-boat conveyed me to Alexandria +in an hour. Alexandria was taken by the +British squadron on the 29th of August, 1814, +and the stores of flour, tobacco, and cotton, were +carried off by them. It contains a population of +9000 persons, and carries on a trade in flour, +tobacco, fish, and lumber, to the southern States +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span>and the West Indies, although Baltimore has +run away with the greater part of its commerce. +A ride of nine miles on a well-shaded road, +conducted me to Mount Vernon, now in possession +of John Augustine Washington, Esq., +nephew to the General, and to the late Judge, +whose worth and learning are recorded by an +inscription in the court-house of Philadelphia. +Of the house itself there is little to be said. I +saw there a piece of an old mug, which bears +upon it a small head of the General, said to be +the best likeness of him that is known anywhere. +From the lawn, there is a fine view of the +Potomac with Fort Washington nearly opposite, +which was abandoned at the approach of the +British squadron in 1814. In passing Mount +Vernon, the ships fired a salute it well deserved. +I must confess that I was greatly disappointed +at the sight of the tomb that contains the ashes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>of Washington. I did not expect grandeur, but +I thought to have seen something more respectable +than either the old, or the new tomb, to +which the coffin was removed two years ago. +But for the inscription, I should have taken +them for a couple of ice-houses. An avoidance +of every thing like pretension is desirable only +so long as it is attended with neatness;—but +there is not even what can be fairly called a +path to either of them. Instead of feeling as I +wished, whilst in contemplation of the last long-home +of this really great, because good man, my +mind was only occupied by intrusive reflections +on the insignificant and pauper-like appearance +of the whole scene before me. The tears of +La Fayette, when visiting the tomb in 1825, +might have partly flowed from other sources +than the mere consciousness that he was standing +in the presence of the mortal remains of his +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span>old friend and companion in arms. There has +been some talk of removing the coffin to the +centre of the hall in the capitol, and of a monument +to be raised over it, but I have understood +that it is not seriously contemplated. If it were +placed there, it might one day be the means of +saving the Union. How forcible, how effective, +in a moment of danger, might be an eloquent +appeal to its presence, made by the Judges +of the supreme court, or the orators of the +American congress!</p> + +<p>I was never fortunate enough to hear a +mocking bird in its wild state; I had frequently +heard them in cages, but nowhere in such perfection +as at Washington. This bird, one of +the noblest in nature, is an inhabitant of the +southern states only, and is thus described by +Wilson, the celebrated Ornithologist. “The +plumage of the mocking bird would scarcely +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>entitle him to notice, but his figure is well +proportioned, and even handsome. The ease, +elegance, and rapidity of his movements—the +animation of his eye, and the intelligence he +displays in listening and laying up lessons from +almost every species of the feathered race within +his hearing, are really surprising, and mark +the superiority of his genius. He has a voice +capable of almost every modulation, from the +clear mellow notes of the wood-thrush, to the +savage scream of the bald-eagle. In measure +and accent, he faithfully follows his originals; +in force and sweetness of expression, he greatly +improves upon them: his admirable song rises +paramount over every competitor. His own +native notes are bold and full, and varied beyond +all limits. In the height of his song, his ardour +and animation appear unbounded—he sweeps +round with enthusiastic ecstasy—he mounts or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>descends as his song swells or dies away; and +as my friend Mr. Bartram, (an American +naturalist), has beautifully expressed it: “he +bounds aloft with the rapidity of an arrow, as +if to recover or recall his very soul, expired in +the last elevated strain. While thus exerting +himself, a by-stander destitute of sight would +suppose, that the whole feathered tribe had +assembled together, each striving to produce his +utmost effort, so perfect are his imitations. He +many times deceives the sportsman, and sends +him in search of birds that are not within a mile +of him, but whose notes he exactly imitates. +Even birds themselves are imposed upon by his +admirable music, and are decoyed by the fancied +calls of their mates, or are driven with precipitation +into the depths of the forest, at the screams +of what they suppose to be the sparrow-hawk.” +He is of a size between the thrush and the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span>nightingale, but shaped like the latter bird. +His plumage in general is of a cinerous brown +colour, with a broad bar of white on the wing, +which he is very fond of displaying. I am +afraid that I never heard them in perfection; but +to judge from what I did hear, I should suppose +that although infinitely more varied, his natural +notes were neither so full nor so rich as those of +the nightingale. But there are many who think +differently.”</p> + +<p>One morning I was much amused by the +debut of a new volunteer corps, calling themselves +the Highlanders,—Washington being one +of the flattest places in the States. The dress +would have looked well enough had it been +uniform, but I was told there was not plaid +enough of the same pattern to be obtained in the +city. The bonnet had a very theatrical appearance, +and would not have been half so bad, had +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>not the eye been attracted by the waistcoat and +the broad lacings of the coat, all of which were +of a very dark sky-blue. I have a great respect +for the tartan; and I thought it might have +looked decent, even when converted, as it was, +into small-clothes, had they not been made +extremely tight. Still, however, the costume of +the nether man might have passed unnoticed, +had not the enormous bows at the knees been +composed of tri-coloured ribbon, and the general +effect much heightened by the long nankeen +gaiters, which covered the leg from the knee +to the shoe.</p> + +<p>In the capitol, as all the world knows, sit +the senate, the house of representatives, and the +supreme court of the United States. And here +I may be permitted to remark, that when writing +generally on such a subject as the United +States, every candid person will make allowances +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>for the impossibility of avoiding a repetition +of things already well known and well +described. Under the apprehension that I shall +frequently be in error on this head, I think the +safest mode is to apologise at once, and beforehand. +None, however, is necessary for not +entering at large upon a subject so tedious and +so endless, as that of the courts of the different +states in their separate capacity as to the federal +judiciary. I may mention, that the United +States are divided into seven judicial circuits, and +thirty-two judicial districts. Each state is one +district, with the exceptions of New York, Pennsylvania, +Virginia, Tennessee, Louisiana, and +Alabama; which are each of them divided into +two districts. There are three courts belonging +to the general or federal government: the district +court, the circuit court, and the supreme court. +The district court possesses a civil and criminal +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>admiralty and maritime jurisdiction, and also +takes cognizance of all cases affecting the revenue, +and all crimes and offences committed +within the district, which are punishable by +moderate corporal punishment, or fine and imprisonment. +It is held by a district judge (there +being one in each district), sitting alone, four +times a year: his salary varies from 1000 to +3000 dollars a year. An appeal lies from his +decision in cases where, exclusive of costs, the +matter in dispute exceeds the sum or value of +fifty dollars, to the “circuit court,” possessing +an original jurisdiction, civil and criminal. The +civil jurisdiction extends to all controversies +between citizens of different states, and between +a citizen and an alien. All offences against the +penal laws of the United States, can be tried in +this court. It is also a court of equity. The +circuit court is held before the district judge, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span>sitting twice a year with the judge of the +supreme court. An appeal lies from its decisions +to the supreme court of the United States, +where the matter in dispute exceeds 2000 +dollars. In criminal cases, a point may be +reserved for the opinion of the judges of the +supreme court, which is sent down to the circuit +court to be proceeded upon afterwards. In six +of the states, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, +Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, there is no +circuit court, because the judges of the supreme +court could not find time to sit there twice a +year; but the district courts possess the powers +and jurisdiction of a circuit court.</p> + +<p>The supreme court of the United States, is +a very high and honourable tribunal, composed +of a chief justice, with a salary of 5000 dollars +(1125<i>l.</i>), and six associate justices, with a salary +of 4500 dollars each, who hold a sitting once a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span>year, at Washington, commencing on the second +Monday in January. The court sits five hours +every day for two months, deciding in that time +usually about eighty causes, which are reported +as those of the law courts in England used, and +ought still to be, by an officer of the court. +Its original jurisdiction is confined to all such +cases, affecting ambassadors, consuls, and vice-consuls, +as a court of law can exercise consistently +with the law of nations; and it has original, +but not exclusive jurisdiction of all suits brought +by ambassadors, and other public ministers, in +which a consul or vice-consul is a party. But +its dignity rests chiefly on its appellate jurisdiction, +which extends to all cases and appeals, and +writs of error from the circuit courts: likewise +in all cases where the constitution and laws of +the federal government, or the construction of +any treaty entered into by the federal government, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>or its validity, or any right or interest +under a treaty, has been a subject of controversy +in the state tribunals. Its decisions and +opinions on the construction of the constitution, +are the safeguard of the Union. But its appellate +jurisdiction is defined, and extends to no +cases but where the power is affirmatively given. +In order to enable it to issue a mandamus, +proof is required that it is an exercise, or +necessary to an exercise, of its appellate jurisdiction. +The supreme court has jurisdiction +in all controversies where the United States +shall be a party in controversies between two +or more states; between a state and the citizens +of another state; between citizens of different +states; between citizens of the same state claiming +lands under grants of different states; and +between a state, or the citizens thereof, and +foreign states, citizens, or subjects. A strict and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span>admirable attention to justice, is observable in +these arrangements. Every description of case +which might be partially decided by the courts +of the litigant states, is brought to the bar of +the great national tribunal to be disposed of.</p> + +<p>During the last sittings of the supreme +court, a case of great constitutional interest was +heard before it. It was entitled “The Cherokee +Nation, <i>versus</i> the State of Georgia.” The +Cherokee nation having been repeatedly harassed +by the incursions and other unneighbourly +proceedings of the inhabitants of Georgia, +applied to the supreme court for an injunction +to restrain the state, its governor, and other +officers, from executing and enforcing the laws +of Georgia within the Cherokee territory. The +counsel for the Cherokees argued, that not being +a state of the Union, the Cherokee nation was +to be considered as a foreign state, and was rendered +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span>capable of suing in the supreme court by +virtue of the clause I have mentioned above, in +which the judicial power of the court is extended +to controversies between a state and the citizens +thereof, and foreign states’ citizens or subjects: +but Chief Justice Marshall decided, that the +relation of the Cherokees to the United States +resembled that of guardian and ward; that they +could not be considered either as a foreign state, +or as a state of the Union; and that therefore +they were rendered incapable of suing +in that court. His judgment was strengthened +by the wording of the articles of the constitution, +in which Congress is empowered to regulate +commerce with foreign nations, and the +several states and the “Indian tribes,” who +being in this manner specifically mentioned, +could not have been considered as a foreign +state or nation by the original framers of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>constitution. Imagine the astonishment of the +poor Cherokees upon being told, that the highest +tribunal at the city of their Great Father could +afford them no redress. The affair will, of +course, come before congress. Chief Justice +Marshall decided according to the letter of the +constitution; but the opinion of Chancellor +Kent, of New York, is surely deserving of the +greatest attention, as containing an exposition +apparently more agreeable to justice. He considers +the Indian tribes “not only as states, but +as foreign states, because they do not constitute +any ingredient or essential part of our own body +politic.” He considers the clause just referred +to, may have contained the additional grant +of power to regulate commerce with the +“Indian tribes” out of abundant caution, and +to prevent any possible doubt of the application +to them of the power to regulate commerce with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span>“foreign nations.” The last words, he apprehends, +would have reached the Indians; but the +constitution, in several other instances, has gone +into a like specification of powers which were, +by necessary implication, included in the more +general grant. Thus, for instance, power is +given to congress “to declare war,” and it is +immediately subjoined “to grant letters of +marque and reprisal.” They have power to +“coin money,” and “to regulate the value +thereof:” they have power “to raise armies,” +and “to provide and maintain a navy:” and it +is immediately subjoined “to make rules for +the government” (and not government only, +but it is added) “and regulation of the army +and land force.”</p> + +<p>All the judges in the American courts enjoy +an immunity from wigs, and the judges of the +supreme court alone are clothed in “silk attire.” +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span>Their robes are black, and fashioned according +to the taste of the wearer. I examined four or +five of them which were hanging up in the +court, and found that although perfectly judicial, +they displayed no small attention to taste in +their cut and general appearance. A proper +degree of dignity is required and observed in +the supreme court; business is there conducted +as it ought to be in every court of justice; but +some of the state courts are remarkably deficient +in this respect: even in the court-house at +Philadelphia, during the sitting of the circuit +court, I have seen a gentleman, a counsellor of +eminence, coolly seat himself on the table whilst +a judgment was being given, and in that attitude +I have heard him address some interlocutory +observations to the court, and press them upon +its attention with great earnestness and ability. +I cannot understand why more dignity, both +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span>judicial and forensic, should not be observed in +the courts of the United States. I have often +been in the company of American lawyers, who, +as individuals, were men of gentlemanly manners, +and excellent general information, which +they have ever evinced a readiness to impart; +but I do not remember one who ever mentioned +the subject at all, without admitting that a +proper want of the respect due to the time and +the place is frequently but too visible in the +American courts; and yet there is no improvement.</p> + +<p>Silence, being indispensable, is well preserved; +but counsel and attorneys may be occasionally +seen with their legs dangling over +the back of a chair, or possibly resting on the +table. A corresponding carelessness of manner +is of course exhibited by the spectators. I +have even observed persons with their hats on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span>in court, and upon inquiry have been told they +were Quakers; but once or twice I remember +having taken the liberty of doubting the information. +I hope I shall not be supposed to +mean, that no greater decorum is observed in +the principal courts of the larger cities than in +those held at places of minor importance; I am +speaking of them generally as I found them +when in travelling. I happened to arrive at +some place where a court was sitting, and “just +dropped in” for half an hour <i>en passant</i>; but +still there is always a something even in the +best of them which, to an English eye, appears +undignified and indecorous; although there can +be no doubt that their appearance is not mended +by the total absence of wigs and gowns from all +of them.</p> + +<p>The spirit of equality renders it allowable, +and the impossibility in distant towns of making +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span>the profession answer by any other arrangement, +renders it necessary, that a barrister and solicitor +should frequently commence business as partners, +and play into each other’s hands. A judge +will frequently travel from town to town unattended, +in his gig, or on horseback, with his +saddle-bags before him, or in the stage-coach, +and dine at the village table d’hôte with shopkeepers, +pseudo majors, and advertising attorneys. +Human nature will out. In the absence +of other titles, it is the pleasure of the Americans +that they should be dignified by the rank of +General, Colonel, or Aide-de-camp; but more +especially I found by that of Major. An English +gentleman assured me that, being on board +a steamer on the Ohio river, he was first introduced +by a friend as plain Mr., then as Captain; +soon after he was addressed as Major, and before +the end of the day he was formally introduced +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span>as a General. There is usually a Major, or an +Aide, as they call themselves, in every stage-coach +company. The captain of a steam-boat, +who was presiding at the dinner table, happened +to ask rather loudly, “General, a little fish!” +and was immediately answered in the affirmative +by twenty-five out of the thirty gentlemen who +were present.</p> + +<p>One would have imagined, that in the +United States, where an equal partition of the +rights of mankind is the boasted foundation of +the government, Justice would have been treated +with peculiar courtesy; but she is not properly +honoured there. Justice is not exclusively a +republican in principle, whatever the Americans +may think. She must remain unaltered, whatever +may be the form of government, as the +value of the diamond is the same whether its +possessor be a prince or a peasant. During my +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span>occasional visits to the courts of justice in the +United States, I could not help thinking how +fortunate it was that Justice was blind, and could +not therefore be shocked by the want of decorum +I observed there. What was my surprise on +entering the supreme court in the capitol at +Washington, to perceive her wooden figure with +the eyes unfilleted, and grasping the scales like +a groceress! With great deference, I would +suggest that the whole of this unworthy group +should be removed. The day may arrive, as I +have said before, when the supreme court may +be the means of saving the Union.</p> + +<p>Any suggestions recommendatory of an +amendment or additional clause in the constitution, +emanate from the judges of this exalted +tribunal. When it is thought necessary that +the constitution of any particular state should +be altered or amended, the legislature authorizes +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span>the people to express their opinions as to whether +they are or are not in favour of calling a +general convention. This is usually arranged +at the time of a general election. If there be a +majority in favour of the convention, the legislature +then calls upon the people to elect persons +to serve as members or delegates, and it +fixes the time of meeting. If any amendments +are made by the convention, they are submitted +to the people for their approval; and if a majority +decide upon their adoption, they forthwith +become part of the constitution.</p> + +<p>When it is considered that the supreme +court has a federal jurisdiction extending over a +union of twenty-four states, many of them as +large or larger than England, whose humble and +individual importance are increasing, and which +are divided and subdivided by party, and by +conflicting and annually arising interests, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>which are becoming more and more democratic +in every succeeding year, and consequently +more and more opposed to the spirit in which +the constitution was originally framed, some +idea may be formed of the importance that is +attached to the decisions of this court, whose +authorities, from first to last, are intended as a +safeguard to the Union. The independence of +this court, and, in fact, of all the federal judiciary, +may be termed the sheet anchor of the +United States. Its power constitutes their chief +hope; the abuse of it is the only medium of +tyranny, and is therefore the principal source of +apprehension. The judges of all the federal +courts hold their offices during good behaviour, +and are removable only by impeachment. It +would reasonably be supposed that the individual +states would follow the example of the general +government in the appointment of their judges; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span>but this is not the case. In seven of the states +they are elected for a term of years only; in +Rhode Island they are elected annually; in five +of the states they are obliged to go out of office +at sixty, sixty-five, or seventy years of age. +This law in the enlightened state of New York +has deprived it of the valuable services of Chancellor +Kent, the author of the admirable Commentaries +on the laws of America. There are +many democrats who actually wish that the +judges of the supreme court should be elected +for a term of years only. This custom is notoriously +productive of sufficient hardships in some +of the more remote states, where, on account of +the smallness of the salary, amounting to not +more than two or three hundred pounds, the +bench is sometimes filled by young and inexperienced +men, who are the children of party, +and whose decisions must be occasionally affected +by the hope of re-election.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span></p> + +<p>Entailed estates are but little known in the +United States: in South Carolina, Georgia, and +Louisiana, not at all. In many of the states +they are nothing in effect but an estate in fee; +the limitation in tail being of no value, except it +be in special tail. But in all cases estates tail +may be barred by a simple deed of bargain and +sale, and which is, in fact, the almost universal +assurance; lease and release being but little +known. In other respects the doctrine of the +statutes of uses is in full operation, excepting in +the state of New York, where it has been discontinued +since the new code passed in 1829.</p> + +<p>The proceedings of the courts of equity are +for the most part similar to those practised in +England. Many of the states have chancellors, +whose offices are held like those of the other +judges. The state of New York had just been +obliged to appoint a vice-chancellor, on account +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span>of the increase of business. The duties of the +chancellor, as far as they go, are the same as +those of the lord chancellor of England; but +in many of the states the jurisdiction in bankruptcy +or insolvency is separate. The terms +bankruptcy and insolvency are used indiscriminately, +although the distinction is of course +generally known and understood among lawyers. +By the articles of the constitution, the general +government is enabled to pass uniform laws on +the subject of bankruptcy. No general bankrupt +law has, however, been passed, although +such a measure has been often contemplated. +In the United States a proportion of the people, +large beyond that of any other country, is engaged +more or less in traffic of some kind or +other in the course of the year, and the difficulty +of coming to any equitable decision as to who +may or may not be considered a bankrupt, has +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span>been the reason why no general law on the +subject has been passed by the federal congress. +The states likewise have the power of passing +bankrupt laws; but they would only be productive +of confusion, as they would not be allowed +to have the effect of rescinding a contract +between citizens of different states; the supreme +court having decided that a discharge under the +bankrupt or insolvent laws of one state, could +not affect contracts made or to be executed in +another. As a matter of necessity, the states +have insolvent laws of their own, which are +generally recognized and respected in all of +them as far as they conveniently can be. In +some cases the person only, not the debt, is released +by them; in others, the debt is discharged, +but future acquisitions by gift, devise, or descent, +are liable, though not the produce of +future industry. The whole law on the subject +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span>of bail in the United States is much the same as +that of England. A debtor to the United States +can only be released by obtaining a release +under the United States’ insolvent law. In +order to be enabled to apply for a release under +the insolvent laws of any particular state, a +debtor must have resided in that state for a +certain period, generally one year; and on the +surrender of all property (if he has any), he obtains +a discharge from prison, which is also a discharge +from the debt itself, and as a personal +discharge, is respected throughout the Union; +but as a discharge from the debt, it often operates +as such only in the state that grants the discharge. +Between citizens of the same state it +releases the debt as well as the person; between +citizens of different states, or between a citizen +and a foreigner, or between foreigners, the discharge +depends on circumstances. If the suit be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span>brought in the courts of any particular state, +and the party has been released by the laws +of that state, the debt is considered equally +cancelled as if the controversy had been between +citizens of the same state. If the +debtor to the United States has applied for, +and obtained the benefit of the United States’ +insolvent law, it can only be in cases where +a judgment has been obtained against him, +and he has been taken in execution. He must, +however, remain in prison for thirty days, +and surrender all his property, which he must +swear does not exceed thirty dollars, over and +above his necessary wearing apparel; for if he +has property beyond that amount, he cannot +obtain the benefit of this law. By this discharge, +the person only is released, so that property +subsequently obtained from any source is +responsible. In all other cases of discharge, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span>under the insolvent laws of individual states, +before noticed, the person or the debt are discharged +(as mentioned above), but still with the +reservation, that all property acquired by descent, +gift, or devise, shall be subjected to execution, +but not the future acquisitions of the debtor by +other means.</p> + +<p>Fugitive debtors from other countries can +be sued and imprisoned only as if they were +citizens of America, that is, by exhibiting against +them a bailable cause of action. They must +remain in prison, if taken immediately on their +arrival, until entitled by a residence in the state +(usually for one year) to apply for the benefit +of the insolvent laws. State citizenship is required +only in a few of the states, the more +general law being, that they may be discharged +after a year’s residence in the state in which +they happen to be sued, whether they have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span>become citizens or not. Foreigners become +citizens of the United States after five years’ +residence. The acts of naturalization, the last of +which was passed in 1816, require that an oath +be taken before a state-court by a foreigner of +good moral character three years before his admission, +of his intention to become a citizen, and to +renounce his native allegiance; and at the time +of admission he must satisfy the court, that he +has resided five or six years, at least, within the +United States, and likewise take an oath to +renounce and abjure his native allegiance, and +to support the constitution of the United States.</p> + +<p>America is in some respects, a laboratory for +the rest of the world. It is the fittest region for +experiment. From the first of January, 1832, +imprisonment for debt has ceased in the state of +New York; the fact is, there is so much more +false capital in the United States than in England, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span>that a creditor is not often one dollar the +richer for having put his debtor into confinement. +The example, if it succeed, will probably soon +be followed in Massachusetts, where there is a +strong party in favour of a similar experiment. +Whilst I was in that state, a meeting was held +at Boston, to consider of its propriety; but the +united arguments of many speakers, tended to +prove nothing more than what was most probably +acknowledged beforehand, by three-fourths of +those who heard them, and into which all that +can be said on the subject must ultimately +resolve itself, namely, that the sufferings of an +innocent debtor are highly unjust, and much to +be lamented; but that it would be very objectionable +to have no means of confining one whose +conduct had been fraudulent. By the constitution +of the state of Illinois, imprisonment for +debt is disallowed, except in cases of fraud, or +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>the refusal of the debtor to deliver up his property +for the benefit of his creditors.</p> + +<p>The question as to the power of any court +or officer to remove a child from his parents on +account of their misconduct, remains unsettled; +but if either of the parents were dead, and the +survivor an unsuitable person to take care of the +child, application would be made to the orphan’s +court, which exists in every state. Its authority +resembles that of the lord chancellor in cases +of infants being wards of court. Wills, both +of real and personal estate, are proved there; +and all executors and administrators pass their +accounts in this court, from whose decisions +an appeal lies to the chancellor. All deeds are +by law required to be registered. Wills are +proved and witnessed as in England; and a +similar law prevents a witness from taking a +legacy. A case of fraud used in obtaining a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span>will, the only fraud of which the English court +of chancery does not take notice, is decided by +the chancellor in some states; in others, it is +usual to send it, as in England, to a jury.</p> + +<p>The whole law of mortgage is, generally +speaking, much the same as in England.</p> + +<p>The proceedings in a chancery suit, differ +only in the pleadings being a little more simple: +a bill for instance, contains merely the stating +and interrogating parts, and the prayer. Witnesses +are examined, as in England, upon written +interrogatories. The effect of an answer and +the mode of using it in court, are also similar.</p> + +<p>There is no such officer as an accountant-general. +Masters in chancery are known only +in some of the states. Their duties are somewhat +similar; and matters are referred to any +one of them whom the parties may agree upon. +In New York, I observed that “Mr. A. master +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span>in chancery,” was almost as frequently to be +seen on the door, as the names of a counsellor +and solicitor. In those states where there are no +masters in chancery, the court has a “Permanent +Auditor,” who discharges nearly all the duties +assigned to the masters in England.</p> + +<p>The form of an action, the pleadings, and +the method of obtaining evidence, are essentially +the same as those used in England, generally. +In some states the action of ejectment is unknown; +in others, it has merely undergone some +modification. Real actions, such as writs of +right, writs of entry, are much used; the period +of limitation has, however, been altered from +that of England. The English law of prescription +is acknowledged, with a very few necessarily +constitutional exceptions. The period of limitation +allowed in an action of assumpsit, also +varies in different states; in some it is three +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span>years, in others it is six, as in England. Where +the action of ejectment is in use, the period of +limitation is in some states twenty years, as +in England; in others, seven years is thought +sufficient.</p> + +<p>Juries are generally constituted as in England, +with the exception of special juries, +which are never formed.</p> + +<p>Throughout the United States a counsellor is +allowed to make a speech for the prisoner, and +act generally in his behalf, as in a civil cause.</p> + +<p>Every state in the Union has its rules for +the admission of counsellors, solicitors, and +attorneys. They generally require that a student +shall have studied law with some counsellor +for at least three years. On application for an +admission as an attorney, the court usually +appoints three gentlemen of the bar to examine +into the moral and legal qualifications of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>applicant. If he be previously and favourably +known to them, the examination is almost nominal. +If he be unknown, or be known, but +with unfavourable impressions, the examination +is proportionably more strict. When admitted +as either counsellor or solicitor, he can generally +practise in both characters, the distinction being +nominal, excepting in the supreme court of the +United States, where no person can be counsellor +and solicitor at the same time. In the country +particularly, it is usual for a lawyer to assume +the duties of attorney, conveyancer, proctor, +solicitor, and counsellor; but after having practised +some time, he usually confines himself to +the practice of a counsellor only. A barrister +and solicitor are frequently partners: as I have +before remarked, it would be impossible for any +practitioner to obtain a livelihood, excepting in +the larger towns, without exercising his abilities +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span>in both capacities. For the “materiel” of a +great part of the foregoing remarks I am indebted +to the kind and able assistance of a gentleman +of the Baltimore bar, and I have endeavoured +that their accuracy should not suffer +under my pen.</p> + +<p>It would be tedious to enter into any detail +of the different state constitutions. It is sufficient +to remark, that their affairs are usually +administered by a governor, a senate, and a +house of representatives. The executive authority +is vested in the governor, who has in +some states the benefit of a council. In some +states he is elected for a period of four years, +but more usually for two. The legislature +consists of a senate, and house of representatives: +both, or the latter, are usually elected annually; +but sometimes for a longer period, with +modifications. In the state of Rhode Island, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span>whose government is founded on the provisions +of the charter granted to the colony by Charles +the Second in 1663, and which is the only state +in the Union that has no written constitution; +the governor, senate, and judges are elected +annually; the members of the house of representatives +are elected every six months, or semi-annually, +as they term it. In general, no other +qualifications are required of voters but those of +colour, age, sex, and residence. In nearly all the +states the right of suffrage is enjoyed by free +white citizens, who have resided for one year +in the state, and six months in the country. In +some of the states, colour is no bar. As to age, +that of twenty-one years is the usual requisition. +Every voter must of course be a citizen of the +United States.</p> + +<p>Without entering at large upon the hackneyed +subject of universal suffrage, it may be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span>sufficient to remark, that the intrinsic evils of the +system are more or less acknowledged by a very +large proportion of the better class of Americans, +although they of course diminish in the same +ratio with the increase of virtue and intelligence; +the objection is not merely, that the uncultivated +and the ignorant part of the community should +be allowed the unqualified right of suffrage; but +it lies in the corrupt influence to which it is +open. Both the rich and the poor man have +rights to be protected; but it must be unreasonable, +that the wealthy and enlightened should be +controlled by the needy. The object of my +charity goes to the poll; and not only exercises +as much political liberty as myself, but a great +deal more; because the poorer classes being the +more numerous, the government is, in effect, +under their direction. If in addition to this it +be considered, that they must frequently vote in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>compliance with the wishes of a superior, it +follows, that the most corrupt, or the most successful +at intrigue, must enjoy the greatest share +of political power. A person who does not in +such a country as America, gain some sort of +qualification by his industry is, surely, unworthy +to be trusted with the right of suffrage. I was +informed that votes were very rarely bought +with money, and believed it; because where +the voters and the candidates are so numerous, +the disbursements must be very large, and the +difficulty of concealment proportionately increased. +They are rather commanded by considerations +of place; and it is very evident, that +a person who could be influenced by interest +in one way, could easily be bribed in another, +were it not for the fear of detection. The +system of treating is common enough. “Why, +Sir!” said an old woman to a gentleman of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span>South Carolina, my informant, “I guess Mr. A. +is the fittest man of the two, but t’other +whiskies the best.” The influence of petty +demagogues is very great; there being usually +two or three in every village. Naturalized +foreigners, as a body of voters, possess great +power in some places: in New York, where there +are said to be nearly 30,000 Irish, their influence +over the elections is much complained of.</p> + +<p>The house of representatives of the United +States is composed of members chosen every +second year, by the people of the several states. +In Virginia and Kentucky they are voted for, +<i>vivâ voce</i>, and not by ballot, as in the other +states. At present, one member is returned for +every forty thousand persons, five slaves in the +slave states counting as three whites. The +present number is 216. As the number of representatives +might be too large, in consequence +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span>of the increasing population, the constitution +provides that the number should not exceed one +for every 30,000, but that no state shall be +without a representative. As the minimum only +is there mentioned, the federal congress has +the power of extending the number of electors +necessary for the return of a member.</p> + +<p>The senate of the United States is composed +of two members from each state. They are +chosen by the legislature of the several states, +for the term of six years; one-third of them +being elected every two years. The only qualifications +necessary for a senator are—that he +be thirty years of age, in conformity with the +age of the Roman senator; and that he have +been for nine years a citizen of the United +States, and an inhabitant of the state for which +he is elected.</p> + +<p>The qualifications required of a member of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>the house of representatives are—that he be +twenty-five years of age; seven years a citizen +of the United States, and an inhabitant of the +state where he is chosen. No property qualification +is required in either case; and the consequence +is, that the house of representatives is +half filled with young lawyers. The only privilege +it enjoys in its legislative character, which +is not shared by the senate, is, that it has +the exclusive right of originating all money +bills.</p> + +<p>Chancellor Kent, in his Commentaries, observes, +“that the great object of the separation +of the legislature into two houses, acting separately, +and with co-ordinate powers, is to destroy +the evil effects of sudden and strong excitement; +and of precipitate measures, springing from +passion, caprice, prejudice, personal influence, +and party intrigue, which have been found, by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span>sad experience, to exercise a potent and dangerous +sway in single assemblies.”</p> + +<p>No one can, for a moment, doubt the force +of these remarks. It is the best arrangement +that can be adopted in a republic: still it is but +splitting one pillar into two; the interests and +inducements are co-extensive. The senate of +the United States and the British house of +lords are, or may be, equally influenced by the +love of their country, and both are intended for +its protection; but the one is little more than +another house of representatives, the other a +most essentially distinct part of the government: +both are bound by the ties of honour, and the +duties of both are defined and exacted by the +constitution; but those of the house of lords +are dictated by the further necessity of consulting +their own security, by a proper and constant +interposition between the throne and the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span>people. The interests of the one are the same +as those of the house of representatives, the +only additional power they enjoy consisting of +an association with the president, for the purpose +of making treaties, and in the appointment +of government officers. The interests of the +house of lords are identified with those of +the house of commons, not merely with reference +to property up to an extent usually far +exceeding the amount of the qualifications +necessary for obtaining a seat in that house; +but they purchase an additional security to the +constitution, by obliging the peers of Great +Britain to keep a watchful eye on every attempt +at encroachment upon the dignity of the crown, +their own rank in the country, and their rights +as “hereditary lawgivers.” In these times, when +speculation is afloat, not as to what they will +do, but as to what they dare do, how true +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span>should they be to themselves. Their obligations +are far more weighty than the “legal presumption” +(to use the words of Chancellor Kent, +when speaking of the senate with reference to +the houses of representatives), “that the senate +will entertain more enlarged views of public +policy, will feel a higher and greater sense of +national character, and a greater regard for stability +in the administration of the government.”</p> + +<p>The president of the United States must +be a citizen of the United States, must have +attained the age of twenty-one years, and +have been fourteen years a resident in the +United States. He holds his office for four +years. He is elected at the same time as the +vice-president, who is president of the senate, +but who has no vote, unless the votes be equally +divided. The president, vice-president, and all +civil officers of the United States, are removed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>from office on impeachment for, and conviction +of, treason, bribery, or other high crimes and +misdemeanours. The president is commander-in-chief +of the army and navy: he has the +power by, and with the advice and consent of +the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds +of the senators present concur: he can convene +both houses of congress, on extraordinary +occasions; and adjourn them in case of their +disagreement as to the time, to any time he +may think proper: he appoints ambassadors, +other public ministers and consuls, judges of +the supreme court, and all officers of the United +States whose appointments are not otherwise +provided for by the constitution, and which shall +be established by law, &c. &c. The president +and vice-president are elected by electors appointed +in each state equal to the whole number +of senators and representatives to which the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span>state may be entitled to in congress; but no +senator, or representative, or person holding an +office of trust or profit under the United States, +shall be appointed an elector. The method of +choosing these electors is threefold: by the +state-legislatures; by general-ticket; and by +districts. The two latter are more generally +preferred, as the choice emanates more directly +from the people. Four only of the states,—Delaware, +South Carolina, Louisiana, and Tennessee, +adopt the former. I think it would be +tedious and unnecessary to give an analysis of +these three methods; suffice it to remark, I have +heard it regretted that the constitution did not +limit the choice to one mode. Chancellor Kent +says “there would be less opportunity for dangerous +coalitions and combinations for party, +or ambitious or selfish purposes, if the choice of +electors were referred to the people at large; and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span>this seems now to be the sense and expression +of public opinion.” When the electors have +made out the requisite lists, they are sent up to, +and opened in the presence of the senate and +house of <ins class="corr" id="TN5" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: representatives">representatives</ins>; and the president and +vice-president are chosen in the manner prescribed +by the twelfth article of the amendments +to the constitution. In the year 1801, the federalist +candidates for the presidency and vice-presidency +were Mr. Adams and General Pinkney; +the republican favourites were Mr. Jefferson +and Colonel Barr. The two latter obtained +a small, but equal majority over the former; +and to decide between them was the allotted +office of the house of representatives. Mr. +Jefferson was chosen after no less than thirty-five +trials. In the mean time the people were +kept in suspense; the tranquillity of the Union +was endangered; the possibility of a recurrence +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>of similar difficulties was forcibly impressed upon +the minds of Americans; and an alteration of the +clause regulating the mode of election of the +president and vice-president was resolved upon. +The old clause contained these words, “The +person having the greatest number of votes to +be president, if such number be a majority of +the whole number of electors appointed; and if +there be more than one who have such majority, +and have an equal number of votes, then +the house of representatives shall immediately +choose by ballot one of them for a president, +&c.” The mode of election was altered; but +it may still happen that the vote of a single +member of the house of representatives may +decide it. In President Jackson’s Message of +December, 1830, he says, that “the necessity +for an amendment is made so clear to his mind +by the observation of its evils, and by the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>many able discussions which they have elicited +on the floor of congress, and elsewhere, that he +should be wanting in his duty were he to withhold +another expression of his deep solicitude +on the subject. A contingency which sometimes +places it in the power of a single member +of the house of representatives to decide +an election of so high and solemn a character, +is unjust to the people; and becomes, when +it occurs, a source of embarrassment to the individuals +thus brought into power, and a cause +of distrust of the representative body. Liable +as the confederacy is, from its great extent, to +parties founded upon sectional interests, and to +a corresponding multiplication of candidates for +the presidency, the tendency of the constitutional +reference to the house of representatives +is to devolve the election upon that body, in +almost every instance; and whatever choice +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>may thus be made among the candidates thus +presented to them, to swell the influence of +particular interests to a degree inconsistent with +the general good.” The election of the president, +immediately by the people, without the +intervention of electors, is here hinted at. There +is a levelling spirit abroad in the United States, +that sheds its influence over new laws and institutions: +if there be a possibility of a tendency +towards either the federal or the democratical +principles, that tendency is sure to be democratical; +and it is by no means improbable, that +such a mode of election may, at some future +day, be contended for and adopted. Chancellor +Kent says, “that the mode of appointment of +the president, presented one of the most difficult +and momentous questions that could have occupied +the deliberations of the assembly which +framed the constitution; and if ever the tranquillity +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span>of this nation is to be disturbed, and its +peace jeopardised by a struggle for power among +themselves, it will be upon this very subject of +the <ins class="corr" id="TN6" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: choise">choice</ins> of a president. It is the question +that is eventually to attest the goodness and try +the strength of the constitution, &c.” Should +the mode of election be altered, as I have just +supposed it may be, we may bid adieu to the +Union forthwith. When we consider the increasing +population of the United States, the +immense variety of interests, and that every free +inhabitant feels, I may say, personally concerned,—whether +he be really so or not,—in the +success of his favourite candidate, we can, in +some measure, foresee even under the present +mode of election, how violent, how convulsing, +at no very distant period, will be the struggle +and party-feeling exhibited at the election of an +officer, whose opinions on the construction of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span>the articles of the constitution, during his short +ascendancy of four years, will affect millions with +a sentiment of attachment or disgust. When +General Jackson came into office, he immediately +thought proper to turn out several +hundred subordinate officers, whose places were +filled up by his own party. The number of +those who lost their places at the commencement +of any preceding presidency was extremely +small, bearing no proportion whatever +to those dismissed by the General. The increasing +weight and importance of the affairs +of the United States rendered it partly a +matter of expediency to do so; and, in all +human probability, future presidents will find +themselves obliged to follow the example. I +make no remark on the late petticoat confusion +in the United States’ cabinet; like the +battle of Navarino, the best that can be said +of it is, that it was an “untoward event.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span></p> + +<p>The salary of the president is 25,000 +dollars (5625<i>l.</i>) a year, with the president’s +house at Washington for his residence; but +his expenses do not equal his income. Mr. +Calhoun, the vice-president, receives but 5000 +dollars (1125<i>l.</i>) a year. The secretaries for +state, treasury, war, and navy, and the postmaster-general, +receive a yearly salary of 6000 +dollars (1350<i>l.</i>) each, and work very hard +for it, their time and attention being fully +occupied, and often till a late hour of the night.</p> + +<p>In the Message of 1830, to which I have +before referred, General Jackson invites the +attention of congress to the propriety of promoting +such an amendment of the constitution +as will render the president ineligible after one +term of service; and yet General Jackson is +again a candidate, and most probably a successful +candidate, for the office of president at the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span>next election, on the first Wednesday in December, +1832, preparatory to his taking office +for the twelfth presidential term of four years, +commencing on the 3d of March, 1833.</p> + +<p>The election of the next—and heaven knows +how many future presidents!—will depend upon +the known opinions of either candidate upon +<ins class="corr" id="TN7" title="Transcriber's Note—Added closing ”">“the Cherokee case;”</ins> upon the question of the +renewal of the charter of the United States’ +Bank, to which I have before adverted; on +Masonry; on whether there is or is not a power +granted by the constitution to lay out the federal +funds upon internal improvements throughout +the Union; and lastly, on the still more important +question as to the continuance or modification +of the existing tariff. The candidates +will most likely be General Jackson, the president +of the day, Mr. Clay, Mr. Wirt, and +Mr. Calhoun.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span></p> + +<p>The opinions of General Jackson are in +favour of the removal of the Cherokees: he is +averse to the renewal of the charter of the +United States’ Bank: he is a Freemason, and +believes that the application of the federal funds +to internal improvements would be unconstitutional. +His opinions on the tariff question are +oracular and uncertain.</p> + +<p>Mr. Clay is opposed to the removal of the +Cherokees; he is in favour of the renewal of the +Bank charter; he is a Mason; is an advocate +for internal improvements; and a staunch friend +to the protecting, or, as it is called by its supporters, +the American system.</p> + +<p>Mr. Wirt, a gentleman of Maryland, was +the counsel for the Cherokees before the +supreme court. He has lately been started as +a candidate by the Anti-masons. Since the +abduction and supposed murder of William +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>Morgan, who, a few years since, wrote a book +revealing the secrets of Freemasonry, the Anti-masons +have become gradually more and more +numerous. They profess a hatred of all secret +societies as dangerous and unconstitutional; and +although they will not be able to secure the +presidency to themselves, yet it is probable +they will be sufficiently strong to defeat the +election of either of the more obnoxious candidates. +Mr. Wirt’s opinions are supposed to +coincide with those of Mr. Clay generally; but +with respect to the internal improvement system, +and the tariff question, he is at present uncommitted.</p> + +<p>Mr. Calhoun, the vice-president of the day, +is the great champion of the interests of the +southern states, the nullifiers, and the anti-tariff +party; and in that character, if at all, he +will be elected to the presidency. His opinions +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span>are in favour of the removal of the Cherokees, +and of the existence of the United States’ +Bank. On the subject of internal improvements +his opinions are said to be changed, he +having been originally an advocate of the system +when secretary at war in 1819. He is +a “Nullifier,” although his situation as vice-president +has prevented him from showing himself +in that character so uniformly as he would +have done. The term “nullifier,” which, like +the word “radical” in England, has now grown +into common use, was first adopted by the members +from South Carolina, in congress, about +two years ago; the doctrine they profess was +broached at the same time. A nullifier is a +person who holds that the federal constitution is +merely a compact or league between the several +states; and that each state has a right to +decide for itself concerning the infractions of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>that league by the federal government, and to +nullify or declare void an act of the federal +congress within its limits.</p> + +<p>Whatever may be urged by the party who +are opposed to the opinions of General Jackson, +with reference to the advancement of prosperity +in the United States by his internal policy +merely, his administrations of the affairs of his +country with regard to its relations with foreign +powers, has certainly been generally successful. +He has obtained for her the command of a +profitable trade with the British West Indian +and North American colonies, thereby settling a +question which had already been the subject +of six negociations. The president, in his +Message, at the second sitting of congress, +on the 7th of December, 1830, says, that this +desirable result was promoted by the liberal +provision of congress, in allowing the ports of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>the United States to be open to British shipping +before the arrangement could be carried into +effect on the part of Great Britain, thereby +requiting a similar act of liberality on the part +of the British government in 1825.</p> + +<p>He has recovered claims upon the Brazils, +Columbia, and Denmark, from which kingdom +the payment of 650,000 dollars is secured to +the citizens of the United States, for spoliations +upon their commerce in the years 1808, 9, 10, +and 11. Similar claims upon France, for injuries +during the war, have also been lately adjusted +with that power.</p> + +<p>He has concluded a treaty of commerce with +Mexico; and by another with Columbia, he has +freed the American merchants from the discriminating +duties which had been imposed upon +them; and by another with Turkey he has +secured a free passage for American merchantmen, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span>without limitation of time, to and from the +Black Sea, by which their trade with Turkey +is placed on an equal footing with that of other +nations.</p> + +<p>By a compact made between the United +States and the state of Georgia, on the 24th of +April, 1802, and long before any gold mines were +thought of, the United States engaged to extinguish +for the use of Georgia, “as early as the +same could be peaceably obtained on reasonable +terms, the Indian title to the county of Talassee, +and to all the other lands within the state of +Georgia.” As gold mines, within two or three +years, have been discovered in that state, it has +naturally followed, that the inclination of the +Indians to remain, and that of the Georgians to +get rid of them, has become far more decided +than formerly. The Indians (Cherokees) however, +claim a voice in the affair of their removal from +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span>the land of their fathers; and that their assertions +have other foundations than those of an +appeal to common justice and humanity, is +proved by the fact, that from the 28th of +November, 1785, the general government has +made with them no less than fifteen different +treaties, thereby plainly acknowledging their independence, +and their capacity and power to +treat. Within the last two or three years, however, +gold, as I have before remarked, has been +discovered on the territories of the Indians; +and the state of Georgia has applied to the +general government to fulfil the contract, and +rid them of the Cherokees. The general +government would be willing to come to a +proper arrangement with the Cherokees, but +they are unwilling to go. The number now left +is about 15,000; the remainder of the tribe, +since the year 1809, having acceded to the offer +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span>of the United States, and removed to the +lands provided for them beyond the Mississippi. +When this part of the tribe petitioned to be +allowed to remove, the answer of the president +(Mr. Madison) contained the words, “those who +are willing to remove may be assured of our +patronage, our aid, and our good neighbourhood.” +The Georgians, however, happen to +think that this is just the time for them to go, +and they forcibly prevent them from digging +for gold on their own land, saying, that every +year will but increase their anxiety to remain; +and that they have no right to dig for gold +when the reversion of the land is in the state. +These disputes yet remain unsettled.</p> + +<p>The Cherokees are far advanced in civilization; +and have among them men of very +superior abilities. They adopt in part the +costume of Europeans; they have schools, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span>churches, and a printing press among them; +and were fully competent to understand the +following precious piece of humbug, forming +part of President Jackson’s message to congress, +in 1830. “Humanity has often wept over the +fate of the aborigines of this country; and +philanthropy has been long busily employed in +devising means to avert it; but its progress has +never for a moment been arrested, and one by +one have many powerful tribes disappeared +from the earth. To follow to the tomb the last +of this race, and to tread on the graves of +extinct nations, excites melancholy reflections. +But true philanthropy reconciles the mind to +these vicissitudes, as it does to the extinction of +one generation to make room for another. In +the monuments and fortresses of an unknown +people spread over the extensive regions of the +west, we behold the memorials of a once +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span>powerful race, which was exterminated, or has +disappeared, to make room for the existing +savage tribes, &c. &c. The tribes which occupied +the countries now constituting the eastern +states, were annihilated or have melted away +to make room for the whites. The waves of +population and civilization are rolling to the +westward; and we now propose to acquire the +countries occupied by the red men of the south +and west, by a fair exchange, and at the expense +of the United States, to send them to a +land where their existence may be prolonged +and perhaps made perpetual. Doubtless it will +be painful to leave the graves of their fathers; +but what do they more than our ancestors did, +or than our children are now doing? To better +their condition in unknown lands, our forefathers +left all that was dear in earthly objects; our +children by thousands yearly leave the land of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span>their birth to seek new homes in distant regions. +Does humanity weep at these painful separations +from every thing animate and inanimate with +which the young heart has become entwined? +Far from it! It is rather a source of joy that +our country affords scope where our young +population may range unconstrained in body or +in mind, developing the power and faculties of +man in their highest perfection. These remove +hundreds and almost thousands of miles at their +own expense, purchase the lands they occupy, +and support themselves at their new home from +the moment of their arrival. Can it be cruel in +this government, when, by events which it +cannot control, the Indian is made discontented +with his ancient home, to purchase his lands, to +give him a new and extensive territory, to pay +the expenses of his removal, and support him a +year in his new abode? How many thousands +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>of our own people would gladly embrace the +opportunity of removing to the west on such +conditions. If the offers made to the Indians +were extended to them, they would be hailed +with gratitude and joy.</p> + +<p>“And is it supposed that the wandering savage +has a stronger attachment to his home than the +settled, civilized Christian? Is it more afflicting +to him to leave the graves of his fathers, than it +is to our brothers and children? Rightly considered, +the policy of the general government +towards the red man, is not only liberal but +generous. He is unwilling to submit to the +laws of the states, and to mingle with their +population. To save him from this alternative, +or, perhaps, utter annihilation, the general government +kindly offers him a new home; and +proposes to pay the whole expense of his removal +and settlement.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span></p> + +<p>I will here introduce a few remarks on what +is called the gold region in the United States, +with the kind assistance of Mr. Damm, a Swedish +gentleman resident at New York, and connected +with the gold mines. I have selected +them, with a very few alterations, from the reports +on the subject lately published by the government. +It is now about thirty years since gold +was discovered in North Carolina; it was found +in the sand and gravel of different water-courses, +first in Cabarras county, soon afterwards in a +county of Montgomery in that state. Until +within a few years past, the process of washing +for gold was principally confined to the two +counties just named. The greater portion of +the gold thus procured was found in small +pieces, varying in size from one pennyweight +down to particles of extreme minuteness; at most +of the mines, however, it is not uncommon to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>find pieces of a much larger size; for example, +at Cabarras, a single piece has been found +weighing twenty-eight pounds avoirdupois, besides +several other pieces varying from four to +sixteen pounds. The proprietor of the same +mine affirms, that about a hundred pounds avoirdupois +have been found in pieces, about one +pound in weight; these large pieces, however, +compose but a small portion of the whole product +of the mines.</p> + +<p>At a mine in Montgomery county, a number +of pieces of about one pound weight have been +found. One of them weighed four pounds +eleven ounces, and another three pounds. In +Anson county, during the summer of 1828, a +piece of gold weighing ten pounds, another of +four pounds weight, together with a number +of small pieces, were taken up out of the sands +and gravel of Richardson’s creek. These discoveries +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>have been chiefly made in or near beds +of streams; but in some instances deposits of +considerable extent have been found on the sides +and tops of hills.</p> + +<p>It was not, however, until about six years +ago, that the gold mines, properly speaking, were +discovered in North Carolina, that is, gold in +regular, well-defined veins. This discovery, +like that of the alluvial deposits, was in some +measure accidental. A person, while washing +the sand and gravel of a small rivulet for gold +in Montgomery county, observed that he could +never find it beyond a certain spot in ascending +the stream; but at the point where the gold +seemed to cease, he discovered a quartz vein +running into the hill on one side of the channel, +and at right angles with the course of the rivulet. +Having frequently taken up out of the bed of +the stream, pieces of quartz with bits of gold +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span>attached to them, he came to the conclusion +that the gold found scattered below, must have +come out of the vein of quartz; and he determined +to pursue it into the hill. He had done +so but for a few feet, when he struck a beautiful +deposit of the metal in a matrix of quartz, +and subsequently another in carbonate of lime. +In following this vein about thirty or forty feet +longitudinally, and at a depth of not more than +fifteen or eighteen feet, he found a succession of +what are technically termed nests, from which +he took out more than 15,000 dwt. of virgin +gold. Soon afterwards the mine fell into other +hands; and the working of the vein has been +discontinued in consequence of the quantity of +water which made its appearance; though it is +understood that it will be resumed in a short +time. This discovery of the metal in regular +veins, presented the subject in a new and interesting +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>point of view; and directed a search +for gold among the hills and high grounds, and +particularly for veins traversing the earth.</p> + +<p>In the course of the summer, after the developement +of Barringer’s mine, some valuable +mines were discovered in Mecklenburgh county. +The product of these, worked in the rudest +manner, without skill or capital, was so great as +to excite general notice; and stimulated the +land-owners in that section to search for these +hidden treasures. The mines now began to +attract the attention of the public; and several +persons of enterprise, and some capital, repaired +to the spot. Some of them made investments, +began to erect machinery, and worked the veins +with system and regularity. The success of +the first adventurers in this new enterprise, and +for a time the attention of every body who +sought to engage in the mining business, was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span>exclusively turned towards Mecklenburgh county. +The consequence was, a constant search for gold +was kept up in that county, and not unattended +with success, as many very promising veins were +discovered. These Mecklenburgh mines were +the first that attracted attention; and the first +that were examined and worked with skill and +management. They were, of course, greatly in +advance of every other part of the region, and +the products have been greater in proportion to +the labour, and capital, and skill that have been +applied to them.</p> + +<p>In the course of the succeeding year, a very +extensive and rich vein was discovered in Guilford +county; and it was soon operated upon by +more than one hundred hands, who flocked in +from the country around, and received permission +to dig there. The discovery of one vein in +a district, furnishes the means of finding others. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span>The people of the neighbourhood visit it, examine +the appearances of the ores, and other signs and +indications, and thus in some degree are qualified +to make a search on their own lands or +elsewhere. This was the case in Guilford +county; the discovery of the first vein was +soon followed by the opening of several others. +The same plan will be followed in every district, +until the gold region be explored, and the +places which exhibit any external signs of gold +be thoroughly known. About this time Cabarras +county, which had hitherto been only considered +as productive in its washings, was ascertained to +be a vein-mining district; and discoveries to the +same effect were made about the same period +at Lincoln.</p> + +<p>It is less than two years and a half ago, since +gold in veins was first discovered in Davidson +county; it having previously been found only +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span>in and near the beds of rivulets and creeks. +Within the last few months, veins have been +opened in the adjoining county of Randolph. +Rowan, situated between Davidson and Cabarras +counties, embraces a considerable section of the +gold region, and contains many veins whose +external appearance is good and promising. +The metal is also found in the streams: some +few veins have also been opened in Tredell +county, and are now in a course of developement.</p> + +<p>While progress had been thus making in +opening veins, and in ascertaining their situations, +some valuable discoveries of stream deposits +occurred in a section of the state of North +Carolina, hitherto not suspected to be within +the range of the gold region. In Burke county, +one of the most mountainous of the state, and +one, two, or more feet under the surface, a layer +of sand and gravel is found, varying from a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span>few inches, sometimes to more than a foot, in +thickness; in this layer the virgin gold is found, +generally in small particles about the size of a +pin’s head, and very often as large as a grain of +corn; it is separated, and collected from the +accompanying matter, by washing. Water is +abundant; and the absence of clay and adhesive +matter in the auriferous layer, makes the process +of washing exceedingly easy. A number +of these deposits have already been found, and +some of them have proved to be very productive. +It may be here mentioned, that in the adjoining +county of Rutherford, gold in deposit has also +been found; but as yet, not much labour has +been expended in that quarter. One vein, +which is very encouraging, has been worked +regularly; another vein of good expectations +has been discovered.</p> + +<p>In short the veins and places of deposit are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span>very numerous, and scattered over the whole +country, with a few exceptions; and the gold +which is produced finds a market so readily, that +it is difficult to give a very correct estimate of +the product of mines of the Carolinas, Virginia, +and Georgia; but it was said to amount to +500,000 dollars in 1830, from North Carolina +alone. During that year, nearly the whole gold +coinage of the United States’ mint, was from +native gold. The coinage was 643,105 dollars +in gold coin: of this, 125,000 was derived from +Mexico, South America, and the West Indies; +19,000 from Africa, 466,000 from the gold region +of the United States, and about 33,000 from +sources not ascertained. Of the gold of the +United States above mentioned, 24,000 may +be stated to have come from Virginia, 204,000 +from North Carolina, 26,000 from South Carolina, +and 212,000 from Georgia.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span></p> + +<p>It may not be out of place here to remark, +that hereafter the quantity of domestic gold that +will be received at the mint, will bear a less +proportion to the whole amount found, than has +been the case heretofore; the reason is this: +hitherto, Philadelphia may be said to have been +nearly the only market for the article; goldsmiths +and merchants at New York, and other cities in +the Union, were unacquainted with it; and therefore +for fear of deception, dealt but little in it; +this occasioned the greater part of the gold to be +taken to Philadelphia, where, if not sold to the +goldsmiths or merchants, it was deposited in the +mint; so that at all events a portion of it always +contrived to reach that establishment. But now +the case is different: a market for the gold is +opening in most of the cities of the United +States; goldsmiths and jewellers, having ascertained +its comparative purity, which is said to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span>be greater than that of the gold of Mexico or +the Brazils, will generally become purchasers +for their own use.</p> + +<p>That there will be an increase in the products +of the mines every succeeding year, +admits of very little doubt, when the gradual +enlargement of the gold region, extending +through Virginia, North and South Carolina, +and Georgia—the number of persons turning +their attention to the business—the mills that are +now erecting in various places—the improvements +in the mode of working and general +management, are made the subject of consideration.</p> + +<p>The improvements in machinery have been +considerable within the last two years: it is +believed, however, that as yet they are far from +being perfect. The defects in the present +mode of extracting the gold are well known +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span>to those most extensively engaged in the business; +and some of the miners, even at this +time, are turning their attention towards the +introduction of other methods, promising more +economy and greater results. Grinding the +ore in water with the vertical stone, which is +the method practised in Chili, is now the +process most generally used; but the liabilities +of the vertical, or Chilian mill, to become disordered—the +waste of gold and quicksilver—the +irregularity of results from the same ores—the +want of proper checks on the workmen, +together with minor objections, will probably, +in a few years more, cause these mills to be in +a great measure discontinued, except in small +establishments, and for certain classes of ores +in the larger ones.</p> + +<p>The auriferous veins of North Carolina and +Virginia have not yet been sufficiently developed. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span>As yet not a single shaft in the whole +range of country (except at the Charlotte Mine, +near a small town of that name, worked under +the direction of the Chevalier de Rivafinoli) has +been carried down to the depth of a hundred +feet. Seventy to eighty feet is the greatest +depth yet attained; and thirty feet is more than +an average on the main excavation: as far, +however, as these experiments have gone, they +furnish no reason to doubt the durability of the +mines; for thus far, the well-defined veins not +only retain their first size, but, in many cases, +become larger, and more often than otherwise, +improve in richness. This circumstance has +given rise to an idea among the common workmen, +that the vein grows richer about the time +it reaches water. On the whole, when it is +considered, that in Mexico, Saxony, and other +great mining districts, veins have been successfully +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>followed downwards more than 2500 feet; +the probability that the veins in the United +States will improve, is, at least, as great as that +they will become poorer.</p> + +<p>Nor is it in the nature of things, that any +considerable portion of the whole number of +veins existing there, much less all of them, have +already been discovered.</p> + +<p>The usual way that discoveries are made, is +to take some of the earth or gravel lying on the +top of the rocks, and wash it in an iron pan. +If any fine particles of gold are found, the vein +is known to be auriferous, and its degree of +richness and value is judged of by a variety +of circumstances. This fine gold without doubt +comes out of the vein, the top of which had +been disintegrated, and fallen to pieces. There +are many bold veins in every district, the tops +of which show no gold, whilst other indicating +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span>substances are abundant. The probability is, +that some of them at a greater depth may prove +highly auriferous.</p> + +<p>Reviewing all that has been said on the +subject, it will be seen that the whole business +is yet in its infancy; and the only cause for +wonder is, that so much has been done in so +short a time. Ignorance and prejudice were to +be overcome, and ridicule was liberally bestowed +on the few who engaged in the business.</p> + +<p>If the work proceed as rapidly for some +years to come, as it has for the three years past, +the changes in the appearance of things will +become very striking. There are some persons +of intelligence, mostly however at a distance, +who seem to apprehend that the mines of the +United States will produce consequences similar +to those that followed to Spain and her colonies +from the discovery of the mines of South +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span>America and Mexico. Without stopping to +inquire how far these consequences were occasioned +by the mines of the New World, it may +be remarked with truth, that no sort of analogy +is to be found in the condition and circumstances +of the two countries; and that neither the statesman +nor the philosopher need anticipate that the +results will be similar.</p> + +<p>That great effects will be produced is beyond +question: and these will show themselves in the +increasing prosperity of the country. Among +the advantages that will follow from the developement +of the mines, is the encouragement they +give to agriculture, in the withdrawal of some +of its surplus labour, and giving it new employment. +They will create home markets for the +surplus products of the farmer; and this will +encourage him to improve his farm, and increase +the productiveness of his lands. As yet, this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span>influence has not been much felt; but a close +observer may see that the improvement has +commenced, though it will not be generally +perceptible until the division of labour more fully +takes place between the farmer and the miner. +Mining and farming are two very different pursuits; +and farmers will soon see that it is prudent +for them to stick to the plough, and sell or +let the auriferous veins to the miner.</p> + +<p>An important change will also take place +(at a very distant period) in the staples of the +gold country; cotton will be less and less cultivated +in the mining districts; while the bread +stuff, farinaceous, succulent vegetables—and +stock, will claim the chief attention. This +change in the staples of the agriculturist, will +in itself produce important results. The opening +of the mines, and the prospect of profitable +employment, will in some degree check that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span>spirit of emigration which has been carrying off +so many enterprising and useful citizens, and will +bring into the country men of wealth intelligence, +business habits, and general enterprise.</p> + +<p>The opening of the mines has been attended +with one primary and bad effect; that of creating +a mania for speculation. The usually attendant +failures and mishaps will co-operate with other +causes, to throw the mines into the hands of a +distinct class of men, who, having a knowledge +of the business, and having capital at command, +will eventually conduct all the mining operations +in the country.</p> + +<p>Whether the effects be good or bad, their +influence will not be confined to North Carolina. +It will be felt in Virginia, South Carolina, and +Georgia,—the people in the upper parts of these +states having far more interest in the mines than +is generally supposed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span></p> + +<p>When the cheapness of obtaining the timber +necessary for machinery, the certainty of labour, +and the security of property under such a +government as that of the United States, are +deeply considered; these mines might be far +more worth the attention of an English company +than many a scheme in which English capital +is already embarked. Applications to government +for charters will most probably be more +numerous in every succeeding year. The capital +required to form a company would not, I was +informed, exceed <ins class="corr" id="TN8" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: 40,000l,">40,000<i>l</i>.</ins> or 50,000<i>l</i>.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>No one can visit the United States without +hearing of President Jackson’s celebrated “veto” +on internal improvements, and every disinterested +individual would, I humbly think, be +ready to admit that the sentiments it contains +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span>are just and valuable, because they display a +solid attachment to the letter of the constitution. +By the articles of the constitution, the powers +of the federal government, with reference to its +expenditure of the national funds upon internal +improvements in the Union, are confined to the +establishment of post-offices and post-roads. +On the 27th May, 1830, in the firm persuasion +that the words ‘post-roads’ could apply only +to those which might prove of general benefit +to the citizens of the Union, and not to those +which conferred an advantage only upon the inhabitants +of any particular state, a bill entitled +“An Act authorising a subscription of stock in +the Maysville, Washington, Paris, and Lexington +turnpike road Company,” was returned by +the President to the house of representatives, +without having received his signature. In the +veto by which it was accompanied, he shows +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>that “grants for internal improvements from +the national treasury, have been made professedly +under the control of the general principle, +that the works which might be thus aided should +be of a general, not local—national, not state +character; and that a disregard of this distinction +would of necessity lead to the subversion of the +federal system. The road in question had no +regard to any general system of improvements, +and was exclusively without the limits of the +state; starting at a point on the Ohio river, and +running out sixty miles to an interior town, and +even as far as that state was concerned, of partial, +not general advantage.” In another part of the +veto he adds, “that if it be the desire of the +people, that the agency of the federal government +should be confined to the appropriation +of money in aid of such undertakings in virtue +of state authority; then the occasion, the manner, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>and the extent of the appropriations, should be +made the subject of constitutional regulation.” +In about three years, the national debt of the +United States will be paid off, and the government +will find itself in possession of a surplus +revenue of ten or twelve millions of dollars. +To divide it amongst the states, will be unconstitutional, +because it will render the states too dependent +on the favour of the federal government; +and as it is collected chiefly by means of the +tariff, it cannot cease to exist so long as the tariff +remains in force.</p> + +<p>Without a limited and defining authority, +arising from a constitutional adjustment of this +power of distribution upon equitable principles, +it is beyond a doubt that neither Mr. Clay, +nor any other person who may be president, +could give any thing like universal satisfaction +amid the “scramble for appropriations,”—as the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span>veto has it,—which could not but ensue upon the +conflicting and uncontrollable variety of interest +that is annually increasing in the American +community.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The progress of reform in England, and in +Europe generally, is watched with the most +intense interest by the Americans. A deep +feeling of regard and sympathy for the mother +country, as they term it, is still general, and +I think increasing; and though most of the +Americans believe their own country is the first +in the world, they are still reasonable enough +to assign to Great Britain the second place in +the scale of nations. Those airs which it must +be admitted so frequently render an Englishman +ridiculous, when travelling on the old continent, +would be entirely thrown away in the United +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span>States. All pretentions to importance are disregarded, +even without being canvassed, as +they might be in Europe; but so long as an +Englishman behaves with propriety, the Americans +will entertain more respect for his name +and character, than they care to avow openly. +They wish us well through our troubles, and +watch with sincere pity what they consider to be +the approaching downfal of our constitution: +but at the same time their national vanity +receives something very like gratification from +the belief, that we shall be forced to adopt a +form of government similar to their own. +That the American form of government +is admirably adapted to a new country, that +that country has astonishing resources, and +that the Americans lose no time in making the +most of them, (I speak of America as a country, +not of the Union, for America must thrive come +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span>what will to the government) that it has thriven +under its institutions, and is at present enjoying +an exemption from many evils incidental to +older countries, it would be an absurdity to +deny. But the natural causes of prosperity +which the Americans so pre-eminently enjoy, +must not be mistaken, as they most fondly and +frequently are, for the positive effects, and little +more than the positive effects, of a good government, +however good and well adapted that +government may be. The American constitution +has never been tried. That it was nearly +a bankrupt at the close of the last war, was a +trial of the resources of the country, not of its +institutions. Forty years is no time to test the +strength of a government like that of the United +States, when civilization is extended over so small +a proportion of them. The good is perceived +at present; the evils are latent, and comparatively +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span>little felt. But there are among the +institutions of the Union, the seeds of discord +and confusion, whose growth is only stifled by +the bustle of commercial pursuits, and that +panacea for every political disease, a fine country +abounding in resources, and of small population +in comparison to its extent. It is possible that +the mischief will not be felt, so long as there +is no real motive for disaffection; so long in +fact as the people are not in want, which may +not be the case while ground yet remains to be +cultivated.</p> + +<p>In England and America universal suffrage +would be alike only in name. In America it is +true, that almost every one can vote; but then +it is equally true, that excepting in the larger +cities in which may be always found, even in +America, a certain proportion of persons without +any ostensible means of getting a livelihood, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>every one has at least a prospective certainty +of the acquisition of property. The poor, comparatively +speaking, are so few, that universal +suffrage is, at present, but a mere hydra in +embryo. Were the present course of improvement +to proceed without interruption, from what +the political economists call the disturbing causes,—were +luxury to be kept at a distance, and a +forced equality and contentment to be preserved +by a strong and universal exertion of the democratic +principle,—it would be demonstrable, that +the American constitution would last for centuries; +or in other words, till the country became +so thickly peopled as to be subject to the evils +resulting to England, and the older dynasties of +Europe. If a democracy be essentially the best +form of government, it would follow that a surplus +population, that unhappy proof of its +excellence, would but be called the sooner into +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span>existence. Then will come the real moment +of trial, whether a democracy can exist under +the pressure of want—whether those that have +any thing to lose, would not be at the +mercy of those that have not—whether an +equality of condition would not be considered as +conferring a title to a community of goods—whether, +when such a state of things is apprehended, +a standing armed force, be it called by +what name it may, would not be necessary, not +to repress foreign invasion, but to put down +domestic commotions—whether taxes must not +be levied for its support—and whether those +taxes would not be found exceedingly troublesome. +In an article in the American Quarterly +Review, (July 1831), evidently written in a +wantonness of spirit that savours of ambition, or +disappointment, or of both, and in which we are +kindly told the easiest road to ruin, it is remarked +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span>that “our forefathers were habituated to +the European system, but they built up the republican +colonies with infinite ease.” But may +it not be here remarked, that as it is the boast, +and justly the boast, of the Americans, and of +the New Englanders in particular, that the +tone of liberty which pervades their institutions +is derived through the blood of the Puritans, +who did build up the colonies with infinite ease, +and whose descendants are still living; so it +must not be forgotten that the Hampdens, the +Hazelrigs, the Cromwells, and others, who were +prevented from embarking for America by the +order of their obstinate and ill-fated monarch, +were men of the same opinions as the “forefathers” +mentioned above; that they did remain +behind—that they did fight against the monarchy +of England—that they did obtain the victory—that +they did enjoy the ascendancy to their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>hearts’ content—and that they did establish a +commonwealth in England, not to flourish for +ever as an example to the world, but to be overthrown +by a military force, which brought back +the son of the last king amid the acclamations +of every rank of society.</p> + +<p>Supposing the blood to be shed, and the +horrors to be passed through, that must be shed +and passed through before the experiment of a +commonwealth could be again tried in England, +is it possible that it could exist, situated as Great +Britain is with reference to the other powers of +Europe, without an unemployed standing army? +and then again, is it possible that it could exist +with one? Where in the annals of the world can +the compatibility of the one and the other be +pointed to? England is but paying the penalty necessarily +consequent on her career of prosperity. +Her constitution can no more be blamed for <ins class="corr" id="TN9" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: Removed a duplicate “the” across page boundary.">the</ins> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span>existence of a standing army, than for a +superabundant population, or the enormous size +of London.</p> + +<p>By what then is it probable that the career +of the Union will be disturbed? Are not wealth +and luxury to have their due weight? It is to +the credit of the Americans, that individual +wealth has never yet been employed for any unconstitutional +purpose; but it is nevertheless +true, that an aristocracy is most undeniably +springing up in every city of the Union. In +the course of time many large fortunes will be +amassed, and opulent families will be distributed +throughout the country. It will be but in the +spirit of human nature, that a person in possession +of what in common American would be +termed “an elegant location,” should wish to +have upon it a better house than his neighbours, +and that another should wish to have a still +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span>better; and is it to be believed that the head of +a rich and ambitious family will be for ever, as +now, restrained by the voice of public opinion +from doing his utmost to prevent a fine place from +going out of his family? Can the inclination +remain in thraldom, and the man be said to enjoy +liberty? Will not one example be followed as a +precedent by five hundred others? and will not an +hereditary aristocracy be produced in this manner?</p> + +<p>The system of entails in England is considered +by the Americans as highly pernicious; +but their idea of its extent is far beyond the +truth. On this head I have heard great ignorance +displayed by them. Some think that an +entailed estate cannot be destroyed at all; but +that an entailed estate cannot, in any case, be +destroyed without the consent of the eldest son, +is the more common error; one which is prevalent +with the uninitiated even in England, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span>and is, of course, still more so among the +Americans, who are but little aware that an +estate cannot, in any case, be rendered unalienable +for more than one generation; or, +technically speaking, for more than a life or +lives in being, and twenty-one years afterwards. +This rule has been a favourite with English +lawyers, because, on the one hand, it prevents +landed property from being unavailable +for commercial purposes for a longer period +than one generation; and, on the other, it +makes reasonable allowance for the English +policy of keeping up the families of our nobility +and gentry. From whence then does the +vulgar error principally arise? From this circumstance: +under the usual form of settlement, +the father has the present enjoyment of the +estate, and the son has the inheritance in tail +in expectancy; and in this case the father +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span>and son, as soon as the latter is of age, +may do what they please with the estate; and +it is a very common arrangement for them +to agree to make a fresh settlement, which +ties up the estate for another generation. +But this is only an exercise of their absolute +power of disposal, which they might, if they +pleased, exercise by selling the estate, or otherwise +getting rid of it. If no fresh settlement +has been made, and the son outlives the father, +he alone may do what he pleases with the estate, +without asking the consent of his eldest son +or of any other person. The Americans are +little aware that there is not a nobleman’s +estate in the country, with the exception of +Blenheim, Strathfieldsay, and perhaps half a +dozen others, where the reversion is in the +crown under some very old grant, which could +not be absolutely disposed of, <i>once, at least</i>, in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span>every generation. That there is a power of +making unalienable entails in Scotland, (with +irritant and resolutive clauses, as the Scotch +lawyers have it), where the person making them +is not indebted at the time, is a truth which I +do not conceive could have given rise to the +error respecting those in England.</p> + +<hr class="tb"> + +<p>The proceedings at the next session of congress +will be of the utmost importance, and +before this work be out of the press, the tariff +question will probably have given rise to as +much angry discussion as has ever been heard +within the walls of the capitol.</p> + +<p>The tariff, that is to say, the principle of +effectual protection to domestic industry, is +supported by about two-thirds of the American +people. Manufactures sprung up during the +late war, and millions of dollars have since been +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span>invested in them on the faith of the tariff. After +the conclusion of hostilities, the war duties were +repealed generally; but some of them were +continued for the protection of domestic industry. +This was effected in 1816, and by the +influence of the southern votes; and, strange +as it may appear, was especially supported by +the members of South Carolina; whilst the +northern members were not generally partial +to the measure. The southern states at that +period, were averse to the expense of a naval +establishment: they disliked foreign commerce, +because it tended to embroil the country in +disputes with the European powers, and they +were therefore friendly to a moderate tariff. In +1824, additional protection was given to manufactures. +It was opposed by New England and +the south, and supported by the middle and +western states. In 1828, still further protection +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span>was given, notwithstanding a violent opposition +from the southern states, who now felt the error +they had been guilty of.</p> + +<p>The tariff question, then, is simply this. +The northern states are manufacturers; the +southern states are cotton growers. The +southern states have never objected to such duties +on imported foreign manufactures, as would be +sufficient for the purposes of a revenue equal +to the government expenditure; but beyond +what is necessary for the attainment of that +object, they are entirely averse to the tariff, +because Great Britain does not buy so much of +their cotton as she would if her manufactured +goods were not excluded from the markets of +the United States, by means of the protecting +duties. The inhabitants of South Carolina are +most violently opposed to the tariff. One-third +of them would, if they could, secede from the +Union immediately.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span></p> + +<p>In the year 1823, the crop of cotton amounted +to 420,000 bales. In the year 1831, the crop +has been ascertained to be 1,070,000 bales, of +which, 165,000 are consumed in the home manufactories, +and the remainder is exported, chiefly +to England.</p> + +<p>Certainly, if ever there was a country upon +earth where the principles of free trade could be +allowed an existence, that country is the states +of North America, so long as they remain united. +When we contemplate their unbounded resources, +and their endless extent, we must admit +that they afford scope for a species of energy +altogether without present parallel in the old +continent; and it is difficult to believe, that free +trade should not be a part of their system, not +only because it would correspond with the +boasted freedom of their institutions, but on +account of the certainty of benefit they would +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span>ultimately derive from it. But from the entirely +different sources of wealth of the northern and +southern states, there emanates a disparity of +interests, which, with reference to the enormously +increasing influence of the new cotton states, +are, it is plain, but partially developed at present. +The settlement of disputes arising from the +differences of soil and climate, in themselves +uncontrollable by legislative interference, must +be a subject far more difficult to grapple with, +than that which merely relates to internal improvements, +which may be assisted by an alteration +of the constitution. Many Americans +will probably tell you as they have told me, that +the Union is becoming stronger and stronger; +they will assure you that there is a growing +conviction, that the complaints of the southern +states are without foundation, that their sufferings +are chiefly imaginary, and that their citizens +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>will, sooner or later, come to the same opinion; +that four-fifths of all the articles that are taxed, +either heavily or lightly, are consumed in the +northern, western, and the tariff states, while +at the same time a home market exists for from +150,000 to 200,000 bales of the best cotton of +the southern states, at the best prices: that the +party war which rages in newspapers throughout +the Union, means nothing at all; and that, to use +the quotation so well applied by Mr. Adams in +his last 4th of July oration, delivered at Quincey, +near Boston, “We angry lovers mean not +half we say.” It is probable that some part of +what is said by an American country newspaper +on the subject of party, may be nonsense; but +one cannot help being a little less sceptical, when +higher authorities, and the proceedings of public +meetings, are consulted, which, if we are to +judge by the excitement they occasion, are not +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>quite a farce, whatever county meetings may +be in England.</p> + +<p>The report of the committee read at the +anti-tariff convention, which took place at Philadelphia +on the 5th of October, 1831, contains +amongst others, the following strongly worded +passage, speaking of “that feeling of resentment +which is goaded into activity by a sense of +oppression, and embittered by the recollection, +that it is the hand of a brother that inflicts it,” +it proceeds, “do you doubt its existence, its +nature, or degree; look to the character of this +assembly, and the circumstances under which it +is convened: give your attention to the history +of the past, and be admonished by the novel +and extraordinary spectacle which is presented +to your view—do not close your eyes altogether +to the fact, that this assembly is without parallel +in the annals of the government; that we +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span>are freemen, and the representatives of freemen, +who speak to you of our violated rights; +that we have come from different, and distant +parts of the Union, to join in demanding their +restoration; that a consciousness of strength is +the offspring of united counsel; and that our +purpose is not the less firm, because it is announced +to you peaceably, and in the spirit of +conciliation.”</p> + +<p>The reports of the different committees of +investigation, appointed by the opposition or +tariff convention, which commenced its sittings +at New York on the 26th of October, had not +appeared in print when I quitted America.</p> + +<p>Mr. Adams, a strong tariff man, and residing +in the heart of the tariff, states, in his last 4th +of July oration, speaking of the doctrine of +“nullification,” which, he says, “contains within +itself an absurdity, importing a pretended right +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span>of one state in this Union, by virtue of her +sovereignty, to make that null and void which +it pre-supposes to be null and void before,” +proceeds, by saying, “that it is a principle +under which the pillars of the Union are tottering +while he is speaking.” On the other +side, Mr. Calhoun, at the head of the anti-tariff +party, and one of the cleverest men in +America, in his “sentiments upon the subject +of state rights and the tariff,” says, that +“whatever diversity of opinion may exist in +relation to the principle, or the effect on the +productive industry of the country of the present, +or any other tariff of protection, there +are certain political consequences flowing from +the present which none can doubt, and all must +deplore. It would be in vain to attempt to +conceal, that it has divided the country into +two great geographical divisions, and arrayed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span>them against each other, in opinion at least +if not in interest also, on some of the most +vital of political subjects—on its finance, its +commerce, and its industry—subjects calculated +above all others, in time of peace, to produce +excitement, and in relation to which the tariff +has placed the sections in question in deep +and dangerous conflict. If there be any point +on which the (I was going to say southern +section, but to avoid, as far as possible, the +painful feelings such discussions are calculated to +excite, I shall say) weaker of the two sections +is unanimous, it is that its prosperity depends in +a great measure on free trade, light taxes, economical +and, as far as possible, equal disbursements +of the public revenue, and an unshackled +industry; leaving them to pursue whatever may +appear most advantageous to their interests. +From the Potomac to the Mississippi there are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span>few, indeed, however divided on other points, +who would not, if dependent on their volition, +and if they regarded the interest of their particular +section only, remove from commerce and +interest every shackle, reduce the revenue to +the lowest point that the wants of the government +fairly required, and restrict the appropriations +to the most moderate scale, consistent +with the peace, the security, and the engagements +of the public; and who do not believe +that the opposite system is calculated to throw +on them an unequal burthen, to repress their +prosperity, and to encroach on their enjoyment. +On all these deeply important measures the +opposite opinion prevails, if not with equal +unanimity, with at least a greatly preponderating +majority in the other and stronger section, so +much so that no two distinct nations ever entertained +more opposite views of policy than these +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span>two sections do on all the important points to +which I have referred,” &c. &c. “The system,” +he adds in a note, “if continued, must +end, not only in subjecting the industry and +property of the weaker section to the control of +the stronger, but in proscription and political +disfranchisement. It must finally control elections +and appointments to offices, as well as acts +of legislation, to the great increase of the feelings +of animosity, and of the fatal tendency to a +complete alienation between the sections.”</p> + +<p>The remedy proposed by Mr. Calhoun +appears exceedingly reasonable. In three years +the national debt of the United States will be +paid off, and the government will find itself in +possession of a surplus revenue of 10,000,000 +or 12,000,000 of dollars, chiefly arising from the +tariff duties. The applications from the different +states for its appropriation under the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span>internal improvement system will be innumerable, +and it will be impossible to grant them +without adding a stimulus to old causes of +jealousy, and giving birth to new ones. To +adopt the system of dividing the money between +the different states is admitted, on all +hands, to be unconstitutional, not only because +no such power is given by the articles of the +constitution, but because the exercise of it +would tend to render the individual states +too dependent on the favour of the general +government. Mr. Calhoun recommends, that +the money should be left in the pockets of +the people, and affirms that there is but one +“effectual cure—an honest reduction of the duties +to a fair system of revenue, adapted to the +just and constitutional wants of the government, +and that nothing short of this will restore the country +to peace, harmony, and mutual affection.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span></p> + +<p>The example of good citizenship displayed +by Massachusetts during the existence of the +embargo in 1807, is now referred to as worthy +of imitation by the southern states; a total +stagnation of the trade of that state was the +consequence of the Berlin decree, and the retaliatory +orders in council of the British government; +and in the opinion that the embargo was +unconstitutional, the question was tried before +the supreme court of the United States, who +decided in favour of the authority of the general +government. Massachusetts behaved with the +best grace imaginable, conscious that there was no +medium between submission and separation,—no +alternative but acquiescence or disunion. +Her behaviour might be imitated, but under +very different circumstances. In the case of +Massachusetts, the cause of the evil was understood: +it was external: it could be removed; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span>or rather would some day cease as a matter of +course; but with South Carolina, the disease is +internal, existing in the time of peace, increasing, +and most likely, beyond the reach of any but a +temporary remedy.</p> + +<p>The first intimation I had of the existence of +the tariff was likely to have been a disagreeable +one. When I landed at New York, I had with me +an excellent double-barreled fowling-piece; and I +was told that I must either pay thirty per cent. +on its full value, or I could deposit it in safe-keeping +at the custom-house till my return; and +in the mean time I could purchase an American +gun cheap; I was indebted to the liberality of +the gentleman presiding at the head of the +custom-house, who, upon hearing from a friend +that I had not brought it to sell, but merely for +my pleasure, politely and immediately gave me +an order for it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span></p> + +<p>The climate of Washington has undergone a +considerable alteration within the memory of +those who have known it for the last forty years. +Its healthiness has by no means increased as +the forest has disappeared; on the contrary, +the reverse effect has rather been produced. +The real nature of a climate cannot be known +till it has been rendered fit for the habitation +of man; and no land can be said to be in that +condition, till it has been partially cleared and +cultivated. The process in some places renders +the climate warmer, and in others it has the +effect of producing more cold; so that it does +not always follow that clearing is productive of +beneficial results. Since the forests of the +Pyrenees have been gradually cut down and +destroyed, the south of France is not nearly so +desirable a residence for invalids as it was +formerly. In Germany, a good effect has been +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span>produced; but not so at Washington. The +summer is still excessively hot, (the thermometer +ranging above ninety in the shade), and the +winter very cold: originally these two seasons +almost divided the year between them; but now, +the weather exhibits far more of the variableness +of the climate of England. The vicissitudes of +temperature are often painful, and frequently +and rapidly produced by the most violent and +piercing gusts of wind from the north-west. +The cold of winter, although still very severe, +has been much mitigated of late years. In 1780, +the bay of the Chesapeake was solid ice from its +head to the mouth of the Potomac; and in some +places, at Annapolis for instance, from five to +seven inches thick. In 1772, the snow in the +district of Washington was nearly three feet +deep, and in some places it drifted to the depth +of ten or twelve. The length and severity of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>the winters have much abated; but still the +climate, as I was informed by a gentleman perfectly +acquainted with the subject, has not +become more healthy. In the year 1829, the +average number of deaths for the last ten years, +has been one in every fifty-three. The greatest +mortality prevails in the month of August, and +the cases are chiefly those of fever. It is owing +to the malignity and greater variety of diseases, +accidents, and privations, to which the poorer +inhabitants of the more thickly peopled cities are +liable, that the annual mortality at New York +is calculated as one to fifty; and at Baltimore +as one to forty-nine. In Charleston, South +Carolina, it is as one to forty: the situation +being more southerly, it is not so healthy as that +of Washington.</p> + +<p>Every part of the United States is said to +be more or less unhealthy during the summer +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>months; but the inhabitants of the northern and +middle states, and of the high lands and ridges, +excepting in the vicinity of water, enjoy a much +purer air than that breathed by the inhabitants +of the southern states, and the lower districts of +the country. An American writer remarks, +that “The intermitting fever which is confined +to particular spots, seems to originate from the +exhalations of marshes, and borders of stagnant +waters, though it is a curious fact and worthy +the attention of physicians, that families who +live in the <ins class="corr" id="TN10" title="Transcriber's Note—original text: neighbonrhood">neighbourhood</ins> of these places enjoy +good health, while others who inhabit the summit +of the adjacent hill, are victims to this +annually returning malady. When marshy +places become dry, fish, insects, and decaying +vegetable substances exposed to the action of +a burning sun, generate those gaseous miasms +which, absorbed by the body, produce weakness, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span>sickness, and death. Ascending by their +lightness they are probably carried by the winds +to a neighbouring eminence, where settling, +they form a sickly and noxious atmosphere.” +I have more than once heard it remarked, that +the Americans of the present day are not such +men as their fathers, the soldiers of the war of +Independence. They can take as true an aim +with a rifle, but cannot undergo the same +fatigue, and are not so long lived, generally. +The inhabitants of the more northern states +of New England, are perhaps, exceptions; but +in any given number of the inhabitants of +Georgia, and the Carolinas for instance, there are +not so many persons to be found of ninety years +old and upwards, as among the same number +of persons living in the country in England. +I heard this from a gentleman on whose information +I believed that I could rely: yet it is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span>singular, that according to the census of 1830, +the number of persons of a hundred years old +and upwards, should be larger in the southern +than in the northern states. The middle states +could boast of a larger number of whites of a +hundred years old and upwards, than any other. +New York in a population of 1,913,508 containing +fifty-three, and Pennsylvania fifty-seven in +a population of 1,347,672: the total number in +the United States was 2654. The largest +number in any one state was in Virginia, 479, +but by far the greatest proportion of these are +blacks. Mungo Park affirms that the negroes +in Africa are not a long-lived race. Speaking +of the Mandingoes, the general name for the +inhabitants of the country watered by the +Gambia, he says, “They seldom attain extreme +old age. At forty, many of them become +grey haired, and covered with wrinkles, but few +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span>of them survive the age of fifty-five or fifty.” +It is singular that they should attain a greater +age in the United States. By the table which +shows the number of persons of one hundred +years old and upwards, it will be seen that the +proportion of blacks of that age greatly exceeds +that of the whites; but it may be remarked, that +the ages of the blacks are not so well known as +those of the whites; and the accuracy therefore +of the census, as it respects the ages of this class, +is less to be relied on. It may be remarked, +that Dr. Ramsay, the historian of South Carolina, +asserts, that those individuals who have been +born and brought up in the northern states, and +who have afterwards migrated to the south, are +usually more robust, more capable of withstanding +the climate, and are longer lived than the +natives of the south. Certain it is, that the +Americans in general have not the healthy look +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span>of the Englishman. The men are often tall, very +powerful, particularly in Kentucky, and well proportioned; +but their complexions are not unfrequently +sallow, and climate-worn, with a countenance +resembling that of a person just recovered +from an illness. This is partly the consequence of +the climate, partly of their mode of living and +their love of ardent spirits, still fatally prevalent. +I am speaking of traveller’s fare when I say, +that the tavern tables are always well and +plentifully supplied; but no viands are thought +so palatable as those that are swimming in +melted butter. A beef steak that would be +excellent if cooked <i>au naturel</i>, is almost invariably +placed at the head of the table, and +in this manner almost invariably spoiled. At +breakfast the bread and cakes cannot be too new, +or too hot; and fresh supplies arrive during the +meal, which is usually despatched with the most +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span>extraordinary rapidity. At New York I once +had the tablecloth whisked from under my plate +by the impatient servants. The natural consequence +is, an extreme prevalence of dyspepsia +in all parts of the United States, which is not +lessened by the incredible quantity of soda water, +sweetened with different syrups, which is consumed +by the Americans during the hot weather. +At Baltimore I have drank, I think, the finest +soda water I ever tasted.</p> + +<p>The inns, or taverns, as they are called, which +I met with were generally good, particularly in +the towns; those in the country, however, were +sometimes exceedingly dirty and disagreeable. +I have almost always found the greatest disposition +on the part of the landlord to render them +as comfortable as possible, and have very seldom +failed in my application for a room with a single +bed, some of them containing as many as four +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span>or five. The Americans think nothing of this. +Upon one occasion, in Kentucky, where I had +secured a single-bedded room, the landlord who +appeared to have been surprised, and thought +I must be ill, came up to me shortly afterwards, +and most good-naturedly told me, that my room +was ready: “As you’re unwell, sir, I guessed +you’d like to retire directly.” The expense of +living at the best inns in the United States +varies from two to three dollars a day. For this +sum a person is provided with a bed, and four +meals at stated hours. A coffee-room in the +hotel for eating and drinking at one’s own time, +is a luxury the Americans have not yet attained +to; at least I do not remember to have seen one +anywhere. I did not find the regular hours so +troublesome as I expected, as the great heat +rendered it impossible for weeks together to +take any thing like severe exercise, excepting +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span>at a very early hour of the morning, or after +six o’clock in the evening. I would instance +Mr. Head’s table at Philadelphia, as the best in +the United States. There was a quiet gentlemanlike +style about it, that I never saw surpassed, +or hardly equalled, by a table d’hôte in any +country. I wish I could speak as well of the +bed-rooms in that respect; I much prefer those +at Mr. Barnum’s at Baltimore, and Mr. Gadsby’s +at Washington. Take it altogether, the Tremont +at Boston, is by far the best hotel in the States. +Ice is to be had in the greatest plenty in all +parts of the United States; I have even found it +as a luxury at my toilette. On the subject of +eating ices, I found that nobody would touch a +water ice, and that in general cream ices only +were to be met with, even at the best shops.</p> + +<p>The most fearful enemy of health is ardent +spirits, which, by those who drink them at all, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span>are taken at all hours, from four in the morning +till twelve at night, and swallowed under the +various and subdued appellations of bitters, +egg-nogg, mint-julep, and many others; all +sounding watery enough to have captivated +Sangrado himself. The Temperance Societies +are an honour to the country. There are about +1000 of them in the United States, composed of +1,200,000 members, and affecting about 2,000,000 +of individuals directly or indirectly. They have +caused the suppression of 1000 distilleries, and +3000 retail stores. The members solemnly +promise that they will not touch a drop of any +kind of spirits: of course, the rules of the society +are sometimes broken, particularly as they +allow wine and brandy when ordered by the +doctor. I have heard it observed by those who +are unfriendly to these associations, that an +individual who cannot abstain from spirits without +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span>belonging to a temperance society, will not +refrain when he becomes a member; but there +is a vast difference between the strength of a +resolution made to oneself, and known only to +oneself, and a promise solemnly and publicly +given, where fulfilment is demanded by honour, +the fear of shame, and the duty of example. +It is always observed, that when a member of +the society has once relapsed into his old habits, +his course is one of recklessness and desperation. +That the societies have done good is undeniable, +by their influence on the wholesale trade +in spirits at New York.</p> + + +<p class="center">END OF VOL. I.</p> + + +<p class="center">Manning and Smithson, Printers, London-house Yard, St. Paul’s.</p> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<div class="transnote" id="transnote"> +TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE<br> +<br> +Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text, +and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.<br> +<br> +Inconsistent hyphenations have been left as is.<br> +<br> +Page <a href="#TN1">50</a>. “fifty cents. per annum” <i>replaced by</i> “fifty cents per annum”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN2">58</a>. “fashionble” <i>replaced by</i> “fashionable”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN3">85</a>. “cerous virginianus” <i>replaced by</i> “cervus virginianus”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN4">113</a>. “enojoyment” <i>replaced by</i> “enojoyment”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN5">201</a>. “represensatives” <i>replaced by</i> “representatives”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN6">205</a>. “choise” <i>replaced by</i> “choice”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN7">208</a>. ‘“the Cherokee case;’ <i>replaced by</i> ‘“the Cherokee case;”’.<br> +Page <a href="#TN8">240</a>. “40,000l,” <i>replaced by</i> “40,000l.”.<br> +Page <a href="#TN9">252</a>. Removed duplicated the across page boundary.<br> +Page <a href="#TN10">274</a>. “neighbonrhood” <i>replaced by</i> “neighbourhood”.<br> +</div> +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78724 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78724-h/images/cover.jpg b/78724-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9662cef --- /dev/null +++ b/78724-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/78724-h/images/i002.jpg b/78724-h/images/i002.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f6bec87 --- /dev/null +++ b/78724-h/images/i002.jpg diff --git a/78724-h/images/i104.jpg b/78724-h/images/i104.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..56b88de --- /dev/null +++ b/78724-h/images/i104.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c72794 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. 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