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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 ***
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes:
+
+  Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold=
+    in the original text.
+  Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals.
+  Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs.
+  Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.]
+
+
+
+
+                                  THE
+                            HARNESS MAKERS’
+                              ILLUSTRATED
+                                MANUAL.
+
+                            SECOND EDITION.
+
+          A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS
+                  OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC.,
+
+                               CONTAINING
+
+            DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING
+               LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR
+                 CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD,
+                  COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM
+                  HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.;
+
+             RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS,
+                         AND LEATHER VARNISHES;
+
+               HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS;
+
+           NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND
+                   ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR
+                           STYLES AND KINDS.
+
+                ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.
+                                   BY
+                           W. N. FITZ-GERALD,
+
+                               NEW YORK.
+                                 1880.
+
+        Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880,
+                    By WM. N. FITZ-GERALD,
+    in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                CHAPTER I.
+                             HARNESS LEATHER.
+                                                                     PAGE
+     The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which
+     the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in
+     Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak,
+     Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides
+     suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum,
+     Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be
+     selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds        21
+
+                               CHAPTER II.
+                             RUSSET LEATHER.
+
+     Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of
+     good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in
+     the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity
+     of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying
+     Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough
+     Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock                               33
+
+                               CHAPTER III.
+                             PATENT LEATHER.
+
+     Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of
+     Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting
+     upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel
+     Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather
+     injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the
+     best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months          40
+
+                               CHAPTER IV.
+                             CUTTING HARNESS.
+
+     How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The
+     Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of
+     Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side
+     to the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine
+     —Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed
+     Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps             45
+
+                                CHAPTER V.
+                  PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.
+
+     Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing
+     Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps
+     not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning
+     and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather
+     for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock                  53
+
+                               CHAPTER VI.
+                          MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
+
+     Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame
+     Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness
+     for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities     58
+
+                               CHAPTER VII.
+                            TABLES OF LENGTHS.
+
+     No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road
+     Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4.
+     Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness
+     —No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness
+     —No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand
+     —No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy
+     Express—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm
+     Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16.
+     Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon
+     Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No.
+     20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug
+     Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness                64
+
+                              CHAPTER VIII.
+       DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
+
+     Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System—
+     Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison—
+     Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting
+     up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the
+     Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing
+     the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks—
+     Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns         112
+
+                               CHAPTER IX.
+                    MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
+
+     Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the
+     best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required
+     —Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check      122
+
+                                CHAPTER X.
+                   DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.
+
+     Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock—
+     Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and
+     fitting—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of
+     proper Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance
+     of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse
+     stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final
+     Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach Style
+     —Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how cut—
+     Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars                      128
+
+                               CHAPTER XI.
+                           MAKING GIG SADDLES.
+
+     Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat
+     Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping
+     off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back
+     Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing—
+     Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns                       139
+
+                               CHAPTER XII.
+                     PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.
+
+     Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach
+     Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting
+     Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads—
+     Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops
+     and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated—
+     Plain Pads, Directions for making                               149
+
+                              CHAPTER XIII.
+                          MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.
+
+     Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages
+     of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather
+     —Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working
+     up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed
+     Loops, stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press
+     —Variety of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by
+     their use                                                       161
+
+                               CHAPTER XIV.
+                            STITCHING HARNESS.
+
+     The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands
+     —White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing
+     before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes—
+     Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid
+     —Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly
+     —To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed      168
+
+                               CHAPTER XV.
+                           MAKING ROUND REINS.
+
+     Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening
+     the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet—
+     Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and
+     trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—Rein
+     Ends, illustrated                                               175
+
+                               CHAPTER XVI.
+                         COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.
+
+     The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and
+     Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings—
+     Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces         182
+
+                              CHAPTER XVII.
+                             RIDING BRIDLES.
+
+     Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various
+     Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff
+     Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting                      196
+
+                              CHAPTER XVIII.
+                                 HALTERS.
+
+     The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish
+     Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter
+     —Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter—
+     Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations              205
+
+                               CHAPTER XIX.
+                               HORSE BOOTS.
+
+     Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots
+     —Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made
+     —Illustrations                                                  224
+
+                               CHAPTER XX.
+                            HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
+
+     Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver
+     for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate
+     less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity
+     —Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular
+     —Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding
+     —Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its
+     superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and
+     Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made
+     —Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of
+     Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture—
+     Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of
+     Terrets, Hooks, etc.                                            249
+
+                               CHAPTER XXI.
+                                 BUCKLES.
+
+     Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular
+     Styles—Illustrations                                            271
+
+                              CHAPTER XXII.
+                        BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.
+
+     Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian—
+     Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable
+     —Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How
+     designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey,
+     illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated                          281
+
+                              CHAPTER XXIII.
+                            REPAIRING HARNESS.
+
+     As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning
+     the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair—
+     Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather
+     —Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities—
+     Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum,
+     how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore
+     the Lustre—How to clean                                         290
+
+                              CHAPTER XXIV.
+                CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.
+
+     Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted
+     with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of
+     Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it
+     immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—Daub,
+     how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s duty
+     to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in the
+     Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean                 296
+
+                               CHAPTER XXV.
+                            LEATHER BLACKING.
+
+     Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes                                 302
+
+                              CHAPTER XXVI.
+                                 RECIPES.
+
+     Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room         317
+
+
+
+
+INDEX OF PLATES.
+
+
+    Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness      Frontispiece.
+
+                                                PAGE
+    Double Road Harness                          20
+    Coupé Harness                                33
+    Phaeton Harness                              53
+    Coach Harness                                61
+    Breast Collar, Single Harness               113
+    Hame Collar, Single Harness                 122
+    Team Harness                                129
+    Heavy Draft Harness                         137
+    Georgia Wagon Harness                       161
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a
+condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom,
+and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by
+the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how
+to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for
+lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for
+the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings,
+bits, etc.
+
+The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used
+by the trade, and guides for making up.
+
+In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of
+information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed
+form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have
+been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual
+indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every
+horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is
+the only book of the kind published in the English language, and
+supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the
+subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The
+author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the
+instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated.
+Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation
+will be compensated for.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral
+branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred
+and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report
+of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery
+and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all
+but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of
+$13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310;
+and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first
+in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen
+employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value
+of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio,
+Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order.
+
+By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the
+workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole
+country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860.
+
+There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of
+establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view of
+this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The harness
+maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370
+horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals; yet
+the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each
+animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which explains, in
+part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it should be. Were
+it a business which required the investment of a large capital, the
+case would be different; but as it is, the investment of a few hundred
+dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him
+a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted in
+a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of absolute
+necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair
+business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the
+cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit,
+there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the
+harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give
+information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable
+those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If
+this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making
+the business a profitable and pleasant one.
+
+[Illustration: DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.]
+
+
+
+
+THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+HARNESS LEATHER.
+
+Before entering upon details respecting the practical work of the
+harness maker, I shall give some general directions regarding the
+various kinds of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and
+patterns of harness, together with such other details as may serve to
+assist the manufacturer in selecting his stock.
+
+The familiar adage, “There is nothing like leather,” is an old one, and
+it is true in more senses than one. In the first place, leather is an
+article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime
+in working it can not give any reliable rules by which an inexperienced
+person may judge to a certainty of its quality. The grain may be fine,
+close, and to the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side smooth,
+of good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to
+condemn it as soon as it gets into the hands of the workman. On the
+other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned,
+and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from
+which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle,
+insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed
+to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through
+the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the
+shoulders thin and unfit for general use; all of which faults are of a
+serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch
+are so educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the
+most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual
+merits of the leather.
+
+There are, however, a few leading tests which assist in the acquiring
+of the needful experience. The character of the hide before it was
+tanned may be ascertained, in most cases, by close examination. It is a
+well-known fact that cattle raised in certain sections of the country
+produce much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the
+firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather,
+than those raised in other sections. If the hide has been taken from an
+old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular,
+the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the
+shoulders and hips thin and baggy; if from a young, well-kept animal,
+the grain will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side
+smooth and of a good color, and the whole side of nearly uniform
+thickness. Grub holes are a sure indication of poor hides, but, as
+they can be so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to
+avoid all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault,
+but it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and
+wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue: if the color is uniform
+throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance,
+instead of being covered with fine fibres, the tannage is good. If, on
+the other hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh
+and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through
+the center when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this
+light strip the poorer is the tannage.
+
+It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is
+injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults
+arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain
+may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to
+injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while giving it a
+deep black color, cause it to become hard and brittle. The best and
+most reliable test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow strip,
+flesh sides together, and close it down between the teeth; if the grain
+is hard and brittle, it will surely break off short, so as to show
+the natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather
+is extra heavy, this test will be likely to rupture the grain, whether
+the quality be good or bad; but if good, it will have the appearance of
+having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain
+has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly-cut
+edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be
+black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of
+impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very
+difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after
+the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the showcase,
+when the tell-tale gum-spots will appear on the surface, exposing the
+fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suffered much loss by
+the depreciation in the value of his harness. It sometimes happens
+that these gum-spots will appear upon the grain before the side has
+been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have
+directed in Chapter V., and future gumming will be prevented.
+
+These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned
+faults, but they can not be relied upon under all circumstances;
+frequent handling and close observation will alone give the eye and
+touch the training necessary for the intelligent selection of the
+different qualities. Good leather, in the language of one of the best
+known and most experienced men in the harness leather trade, should
+be “solid, but not hard; mellow, but not soft”—qualities that can not
+be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the
+requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather
+employed by harness makers—namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and
+hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All
+other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far
+the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer
+and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affected
+by water; it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more
+easily worked, and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to
+the production of good harness—strength and pliability—than any other
+tannage. Hemlock leather is harder; of a dark red color, which greatly
+interferes with its taking a good black, and also causes the latter
+to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements; the
+grain is more open and appears coarser; it wets up quickly, and does
+not dry out as soft as does oak leather; it is harder to stitch, and
+is inferior in strength, particularly when the strap is placed in a
+position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is
+also much heavier. A side of hemlock will weigh from eight to ten per
+cent more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness,
+a difference that makes up for the margin in price between the two
+kinds. “Union” leather is either tanned with mixed oak and hemlock
+liquors, or first tanned with hemlock, and afterwards retanned with
+oak, the latter operation giving it a much lighter color than it
+originally possessed; in some cases the color on the flesh side being
+so light as to deceive the buyer who is unacquainted with this kind
+of leather. The grain is close and, as a rule, finer than either oak
+or hemlock, but for harness this leather is inferior to oak in every
+respect, and but a little better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as
+heavy as the latter, and possesses no qualities that recommend it to
+the buyer who desires good stock.
+
+In some sections of the country, hemlock leather is made with much
+care, the hides being closely selected, well tanned, and curried with
+the best oil and grease. Prepared in this manner, it gives satisfaction
+when not brought into direct competition with oak-tanned stock; but,
+no matter how much care may have been exercised, it is inferior to
+oak-tanned leather with which the same pains have been taken, and there
+is but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and
+that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock.
+
+The following general advice may be of value to harness makers and
+manufacturers of harness leather. Select hides of young steers or
+heifers which were in the best condition when killed: they only possess
+the requisites of fineness of grain, uniformity of thickness, and
+strength of fibre. A cow or bullock hide is entirely unfitted for
+this kind of leather; the butt of the former is liable to be thick
+and the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and
+belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine
+it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These,
+though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be
+entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather
+is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes
+along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from
+cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether
+the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut,
+it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important
+consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect
+by the butcher having cut the animal’s throat from ear to ear, thus
+shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body.
+
+Tanning, though not a portion of the harness maker’s business, should
+be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between
+the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use
+because of its being tougher and more pliable; but even oak-tanned may
+not be good. There are two general methods of tanning: one the sole
+leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard; the other the
+upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and tough. By the
+first method greater weight is secured, but the quality is unsuited to
+the use of the harness maker. Some tanners follow the former method in
+part, and thereby secure a greater weight, but they can not produce
+a good quality. This leather can be detected while working it by its
+hard, sole-leather-like character. It does not work well in rounds,
+or when being raised, and is more likely to break when subjected to a
+sudden strain.
+
+In addition to these features of tanning, there is what is known as
+the short-tanned, this leather coiling like a piece of tin, and when
+cut it shows a pale streak through the center. Then there is the limy
+leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper
+thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch and fall away to its
+natural substance. There is also the black-oak tannage. This leather
+shows a greenish-yellow appearance in spots upon the flesh side. It is
+soft, and possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned
+leather is too often injured in being curried; the use of poor oils and
+grease causes the “gum,” “spew,” or “fry,” as it is known in different
+localities; if properly curried with good oils, this pest of the
+harness maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will
+possess a surface free from roughness or wrinkles, and will be smooth
+and silky to the touch.
+
+The buyer, therefore, should insist upon the seller furnishing him with
+hides such as have been recommended, reasonably free from scratches,
+warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage,
+and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection
+is not to be expected; the harness maker should aim to secure leather
+possessing the minimum of defects. Hard leather is sometimes made to
+feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier.
+The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the
+thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a
+poor purchase to the buyer.
+
+Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the
+selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for
+the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for
+which it is intended.
+
+So well is this understood by leading harness-manufacturers who make
+up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but
+select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for
+each particular strap; while the leading custom manufacturers purchase
+or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however,
+buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the
+error of not procuring a proper assortment. As a rule, they select the
+weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when
+lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing
+on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of
+leather, besides materially weakening the straps thus manipulated, as
+the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part of
+the stock.
+
+If extra heavy straps are needed, three thicknesses of leather are
+used, which in most cases calls for the use of the splitting-machine
+to prevent overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead
+of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide
+themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds
+a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every
+requirement except the heaviest truck harness, which calls for the
+heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what
+kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen
+pounds and under can be cut to good advantage for this purpose. Traces,
+back-bands, and breeching-straps require heavier leather, and hides
+suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand.
+A few years’ experience will enable any man to determine the proper
+weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure
+assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight.
+
+Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is
+made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used
+should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen
+to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to
+twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better adapted to
+this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in
+order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally
+fine and the fibre strong; it fits up well, retains its shape, and
+finishes smooth and soft.
+
+The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use
+for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting
+the back-bands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made
+from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds
+to the side for all but the bodies; these, being also single, should be
+of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under
+side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight
+should be used as for light road-harness.
+
+The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with
+single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is
+required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite
+firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen
+pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of
+single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter
+inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces,
+hold-backs, and back-bands.
+
+For light coach harness, the best weight is about eighteen pounds to
+a side; but if extra heavy traces are used, it is better to select
+leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employment of only two
+thicknesses, thus obviating the necessity of a filling-in piece. If
+the latter is used, it should be of quite light leather.
+
+Coach and coupé harness require heavy weights, particularly for
+traces, hold-backs, back-bands, and breeching-straps; for all other
+straps, excepting bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are
+good weights, but the latter should be made from sides weighing about
+fourteen pounds.
+
+Light express harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use
+of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each; the bridles,
+however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that
+used for coach harness. These weights also answer well for farm and
+the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness
+requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The
+above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides;
+extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged
+by these.
+
+Grain leather is much used for folds, and, as a rule, the bellies, or
+at least the lower portions of trimmed hides, answer well for this
+purpose; though the finest, for coach and light harness, is made from
+sides weighing sixteen pounds or under, while for team and truck
+harness a heavier grade is required.
+
+[Illustration: COUPÉ HARNESS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+RUSSET LEATHER.
+
+
+In selecting rein leather, the same tests as to quality should be
+employed as with harness leather, as it is in every respect the
+same with the exception that, instead of being colored black, it is
+bleached, and afterwards stained brown or some other color. The latest
+freak of fashion is to bleach it quite light and then color it with a
+yellowish-brown stain, so as to produce what is known as cuir-color, a
+very light, almost imperceptible brown; in fact, the shade is nearer
+to the natural color of fine oak-tanned leather than any thing else,
+and the stain used is more for the purpose of producing a uniform
+shade than establishing a new color. When this color is employed, very
+little stain is needed on the edges of straps to bring them up to the
+same shade as the grain; and where it can be done, the harness maker
+will find it to his advantage to procure of the leather-manufacturer
+the same kind of stain as is used to color the grain, the beauty of a
+russet rein depending quite as much upon its uniformity of color as
+upon its make. The brown and yellow stains can be made very easily,
+but those used to produce the soft, fine shades are part of the
+leather-manufacturer’s stock-in-trade, and their preparation is kept
+a secret, at least until fashion has adopted some new color as the
+favorite.
+
+In selecting rein leather, it is bad policy to choose any thing but the
+best quality. Poor leather works harder, does not keep its shape as
+well, and takes a less uniform shade when stained, particularly when it
+is short-tanned, as the untanned center presents a darker shade than
+the portion that is well filled with bark. Then, too, if the grain is
+hard it is liable to crack while being made up, or upon being bent
+while in use. A pair of russet reins will contain about one pound of
+leather, and the trifling difference in the cost between the highest
+and lowest priced stock should not be sufficient inducement to the
+harness maker to jeopardize the lives of his customers by the use of
+inferior, unsafe reins.
+
+Hand-part leather, like that for the reins, should be of the very
+best quality, and all the tests that are applied to other kinds are
+equally effectual for this, while it should also be soft and pliant.
+It is customary among harness makers who use but a small amount of
+rein-leather to cut their folds for hand parts from the same side as
+they do the rounds.
+
+This is a mistake, entailing additional cost without the gain of a
+single advantage. Rein leather in most cases is too heavy for folds,
+and must be split to reduce it to the proper thickness. This process
+removes some of the strongest portion of the leather, besides occupying
+the time of the workman. A cheaper and much better plan is to procure
+handpart leather that has been made expressly for the purpose. It is
+of lighter weight, much stronger in proportion to its thickness, and,
+when cut to the proper width, is ready for the workman to make up. For
+flat hand parts the leather should be equally as heavy as that used for
+the rounds; it can be cut from the same sides as the rounds if desired,
+but, as it is generally too hard, the workman is compelled to resort
+to some method of softening it, such as pulling it around a post,
+rolling and working, etc. For flat hand parts, grained leather is quite
+popular, and looks well.
+
+When the harness maker can not readily procure this, he can obtain very
+nice grained hand parts by boarding or breaking the grain in the same
+manner as is done by the curriers, as follows: cut a piece of leather
+from the side, of the full width needed for two pairs of hand parts, as
+a piece of the requisite width for one pair would be too narrow to work
+well; lay the strip on a table, the grain side up, and with a board,
+such as is used by curriers, crease the grain, commencing at the front
+corner on one end, and giving the leather a half roll diagonally across
+the strip, continuing to work it at the same angle until the other end
+is reached; then commence at the front corner of the other end, and
+board it at the same angle as the first, until the end is reached where
+the work was begun. By this means, the creases in the grain will cross
+each other and form the distinctive feature from which the leather
+gets its name. The fineness of the graining depends upon the amount
+of labor applied. In a little time the workman will acquire all the
+experience necessary for the production of a fine, even grain.
+
+To the harness maker using but little of this kind of handpart leather,
+graining in this manner is a matter of economy. The labor needed to
+produce the desired surface does even more than this, as it breaks down
+and softens the leather, making it as pliant as can be desired.
+
+Buff leather is also much used for hand parts. It is made of the same
+quality of stock as the other kinds, but is not stained, the grain
+being buffed by the currier to remove the gloss and give it a white,
+furried appearance. It is a soft, pliant leather, and is one of the
+best kinds in use for hand parts, as, in addition to its softness and
+good appearance, it will not soil the most delicate fabrics.
+
+Another light-colored leather, and one a good quality of which it is
+difficult to procure, is that known as loop leather. This, unlike
+the kinds before mentioned, is not curried with oil, or at least the
+quantity of grease of any kind employed is very small. It must be
+solid, and yet possess a mellow grain that will readily take a crease
+and retain it. If in creasing up the work, one mark when placed in
+close proximity to another obliterates it, or decreases its depth
+in the least, a good piece of work can not be made, and only by the
+exercise of the greatest care can even an ordinary job be produced.
+If, however, the grain is mellow, each impression made by the creaser
+becomes permanently set, and the adjoining one, no matter how near it
+may be, is equally well defined. For this reason, in selecting a side,
+make good tannage, mellow grain, and a solid body the tests.
+
+The lack of uniformity in thickness is a matter of no importance;
+indeed, instead of being a detriment, as is the case with all other
+leather used by harness makers, it is a positive advantage, as the
+shoulders and other thin parts can be used for check and other light
+loops, while the thick butts are of the proper weight for trace and
+similar heavy loops, all the intermediate thicknesses being available
+for the various loops for other parts.
+
+
+BUYING LEATHER.
+
+In purchasing leather, the buyer is compelled to depend much upon the
+honor of the seller in other respects than the determination of the
+quality, excepting in the case of weight stock, which is sold by the
+pound, the weight being ascertained at the time of sale. With trimmed
+stock, however, the case is different in most markets. This leather
+is marked with its weight while in the rough, and after it is trimmed
+and curried there are no means of ascertaining the correctness of the
+brand. It is claimed that a side of leather weighing eighteen pounds in
+the rough will lose about four pounds in the currying and trimming. No
+reliance however, can be placed upon this estimate; for if the flesh
+side is not well cleaned, and the currier is desirous of misleading,
+the leather may be stuffed with cheap oil until the finished is equal
+to the rough weight.
+
+Backs as well as trimmed sides are sold by the rough weight, with an
+additional charge of $1 and $1.50 each for dressing. Recently, however,
+a leading New-York manufacturer has adopted the plan of selling backs
+by their actual weight at the time of sale, the price charged being 82
+cents per pound, which is, as near as can be ascertained, the actual
+cost of that bought by the pound, and to which an extra charge has been
+added for finishing. The latter is the most simple method, and will no
+doubt come into general use when the advantages are fully understood.
+
+The buyer, however, is at liberty to take or leave the bellies—in the
+latter case the value by weight being deducted from the bill. These
+weigh, as a rule, four pounds. Thus a side of leather which weighed
+eighteen pounds in the rough, if properly fleshed and curried will lose
+four pounds by this process and three or four pounds more by cropping,
+leaving about eleven pounds of prime leather in the back, for which the
+buyer pays as though in the rough stock—eighteen pounds, less the three
+or four pounds deducted if the bellies are not wanted. Therefore, in
+buying a back, 48 cents a pound would be charged for eighteen pounds
+of leather, and $1.50 added for dressing, making the total cost $8.70,
+after deducting for the bellies, leaving eleven pounds of prime
+leather, to be paid for at a cost of about 80 cents a pound, or nearly
+double the apparent quotation.
+
+In trimmed stock, the difference between the actual and the quoted
+price is much less, but the buyer pays for the bellies as well as the
+backs. The price charged per pound is, however, about 2 cents less
+for the same quality, in which case an eighteen-pound side would cost
+$8.28, and the actual weight would be about fourteen pounds, making the
+leather cost about 59 cents a pound, a difference of about 21 cents a
+pound between it and the backs. It will be seen by this that any false
+branding of the rough weight causes a marked advance in the price, and
+should teach the importance of buying trimmed stock of honest, reliable
+men, and of avoiding speculators, who offer extra inducements in the
+way of low prices, as the latter are sure to be made up by increased
+weight.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+PATENT LEATHER.
+
+
+Glazed, or, as it is more frequently called, patent leather is now
+extensively used in the manufacture of harness, pads, gig saddles,
+and winkers, they being seldom made of other kinds, while for
+ornaments such as tabs, tug-ends, fronts, etc., it is deemed almost
+indispensable; like plain leather, it is made both of good and poor
+material, and finished to correspond.
+
+The finest quality is made of well-assorted hides, tanned with young
+oak bark, weak liquors being used at first, and gradually strengthened
+each day until the proper degree is reached, ample time being given
+to thoroughly tan the leather before it is removed from the vats. All
+hides that are to be used for thin leather are then split.
+
+The first split taken from the flesh side is small, and is known as the
+“junior,” and is seldom finished in glazed stock; following this is one
+or more full splits according to the thickness of the hide. The splits
+are always finished smooth, the grain being largely used for enamel
+leather, though it is also finished as grain, collar, binding, etc.
+
+Running the hide through the splitting-machine has long been
+acknowledged to be detrimental to the leather, owing to the severe
+strain to which it is subjected, but the introduction of the belt-knife
+machine for splitting removes much of this objection, as the hide is
+split without being strained in the least. The processes of varnishing,
+drying, and finishing, while determining the quality of the leather,
+are foreign to the business of the harness maker; but there are points
+which he should understand in order to be able to judge of the quality
+of the leather. The first of these is the condition of the finished
+surface, which should be smooth, the coat of color and varnish being of
+sufficient thickness to give a pure color, while on skirting, winker,
+and other heavy stock the varnish should be thicker than on light
+leathers, as these are seldom bent while being worked. Light leather,
+such as collar and binding, is always worked over round frames, and if
+the glazed coat is too heavy it is liable to crack, thus defacing the
+surface. This is particularly the case with collar-leathers, which in
+too many cases are but the thinnest splits, selected without regard to
+their adaptability to the required purpose, whereas they should be of
+extra soft stock, coated as thinly as possible with the best grade of
+varnish. The severe treatment it receives while being shaped to the
+collar is sure to impair the surface even of the best. The grades of
+leather known as grain winker, skirting, collar, etc., command a much
+higher price than that known as splits. With the thinner qualities
+there is some advantage in using the grain, as the surface preserves
+its original appearance much better after being worked than does split
+stock; for winker and skirting, however, the grain does not possess any
+special merit, except what it may gain from not being put through the
+splitting-machine, as thin hides are selected, and they are reduced to
+a uniform thickness by the knife. The varnish is applied to the flesh
+sides, and is therefore open to the same objections as to split stock.
+The prejudice against the latter is a senseless one, and harness makers
+pay dearly for yielding to it and selecting grain stock at higher rates.
+
+Enamel leather is always made of the grain side, and its quality must
+be determined by its softness to the touch, purity of color, and
+fineness of finish. The prices of patent leather vary to an extent that
+creates surprise in the minds of buyers who are unacquainted with the
+causes.
+
+These exist from the very commencement. In the first place, the hides
+themselves may be of an inferior quality. When they are limed and
+prepared for the tanner, they may be placed in strong hemlock liquors
+and partially tanned, after which they are split and then retanned in
+oak liquor for the purpose of producing a light color. They are also
+submitted to various manipulations, unknown to any but the initiated,
+for the purpose of giving a good appearance to the leather without
+increasing the expense, which in no way improves the quality. After
+being otherwise prepared for the varnish, the hides are placed upon a
+frame, and by means of powerful jack-screws stretched to their utmost
+extent, whereby an increased measurement of from five to seven feet is
+given to each. They are then glazed and finished to look as well as
+prime stock, and can be sold at a marked reduction in price compared
+with the former; but the buyer who imagines he has saved two cents a
+foot by purchasing these hides pays for five or seven feet of leather,
+the greater part of which is sure to be lost, in a few months, by
+shrinkage. The worst feature of this excessive stretching is that the
+leather, being extended to its utmost capacity while wet, can not be
+worked smooth when used over irregular shapes, as all the stretch is
+taken out of it while being manufactured. This cheap stock therefore
+costs nearly as much as the best qualities, is more difficult to
+work, and is less durable when put to actual use. The care of patent
+leather in stock in order to prevent loss is a matter of considerable
+importance. When practicable, all thick stock should be hung up in a
+cool, dry room, while thin stock, both enamelled and smooth, should be
+rolled, thin paper being placed next to the glazed surface.
+
+There is another matter that is well worthy the attention of
+buyers—namely, the season in the year when the leather is made, this
+having much to do with its durability.
+
+The best leather is produced in cool weather, the poorest during the
+hot months of July and August. The latter is somewhat less liable to
+become sticky when exposed to the sun, but it is almost sure to crack
+during cold weather, sometimes when not in use, and there are very few
+leather-manufacturers who are willing to warrant stock not made in
+cold weather. Harness-manufacturers should therefore look well to this
+matter, as cracked patent leather destroys the appearance of their work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+CUTTING HARNESS.
+
+
+The cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure
+that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a
+subject of the first importance to every harness maker, no matter what
+the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value,
+though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest
+and weakest part of the leather in straps that receive the greatest
+amount of strain insures the production of an inferior harness, be it
+ever so well made up. The cutter therefore lays the foundation for,
+and upon his skill depends much of, the manufacturer’s success. In
+large factories this is well understood, and the most skilful men are
+employed at high wages to cut up stock.
+
+These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and
+kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there
+being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The
+small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following
+rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience
+in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but
+produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather
+in three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock,
+and backs; these are illustrated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows
+the side in full; this is sold as weight stock—that is, by its actual
+weight at the time of purchase. The dotted line commencing at the root
+of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up
+the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being
+trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting
+off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening the
+edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide,
+indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of
+which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of
+separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the
+position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed
+the same as in trimmed stock.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find
+it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then
+crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or about
+the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in
+cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating the
+necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite
+thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting
+a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under
+other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should not
+be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the
+splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This
+machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is
+positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is
+possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works
+nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious.
+
+The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he
+proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single
+harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from
+blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the
+sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness
+being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and
+thin shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by
+Fig. 1.
+
+The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a
+few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that
+portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the
+back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps,
+such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or
+team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps,
+etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being
+thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by
+lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the
+inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed
+out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut
+into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes
+and short billets, thus utilizing every part.
+
+To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely
+different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the
+different sections being shown by Fig. 2.
+
+A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about
+sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen.
+
+The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A,
+which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the
+center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock
+to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel
+with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned.
+Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1,
+then measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces
+and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the
+requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly
+straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the
+tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line
+by cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight
+cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for
+the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge
+with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any
+other straps from the back end.
+
+It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge
+the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper
+than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important
+considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste
+of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should
+be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute
+angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the
+side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously
+slit off.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers
+for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and
+the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite
+length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same
+lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair
+of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into
+breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps,
+nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into
+check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order
+named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such
+as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and
+points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and
+neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time
+all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up.
+The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy
+flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good
+advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what
+is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather
+gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part
+of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked
+up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps,
+belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the
+flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short
+billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces
+can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not
+claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in
+all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will
+be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular
+straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste.
+Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the
+section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are
+removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the
+straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in
+Fig. 1.
+
+[Illustration: PHAETON HARNESS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.
+
+
+In the manufacture of fine harness, where the straps are to be worked
+up full and to artistic patterns, the best quality of oak leather
+should be used, as, it being well curried, the manner of working
+it is less complicated than when commoner grades are employed. The
+reason for this is, that only the firm portion of the leather is
+used, the bellies, flanks, etc., being cut all off, leaving a narrow
+strip called the back, from eighteen to twenty-two inches wide. This
+leather requires to be moistened with a sponge and water, but there
+are few harness makers who wet it to any considerable extent. The
+practice, however, of one of the leading manufacturers of this country
+is to place all the straps in a vat of water, allowing them to remain
+immersed until the grain shows signs of the tallow coming to the
+surface. They are then removed, wiped, and hung up until the surface
+moisture is dried off, when they are handed over to the fitter, who
+rolls the whole in a coarse cloth, afterwards taking them out one at a
+time, and fitting them up. It is claimed that this treatment prepares
+the leather for working up much better than when it is merely dampened,
+and that the little oil and grease forced out can easily be replaced
+without any detriment to the leather.
+
+Curriers, however, condemn this treatment of fine, well-finished stock,
+but experience has shown that leather thus manipulated can be worked up
+into the finest harness, the finish on the grain being soft and clear
+and the edges smooth, the leather retaining its softness as long as
+that which has only been moistened. While there is a marked reduction
+in the labor necessary in fitting it up, it is evident that there is
+something gained by pursuing this method.
+
+There is in the market large quantities of well-tanned but
+poorly-curried stock. This is far preferable to poorly-tanned leather,
+no matter how well it may be curried, if properly treated by the
+harness maker. The right course to pursue with this quality is to
+soak the leather until it is well moistened to the center, the length
+of time necessary varying so greatly with different kinds that it is
+impossible to give any other guides than the appearance of the grease
+on the surface. The “testing-strap” is also sometimes employed. A
+small scrap of the leather, being soaked, is placed in the water with
+the straps, and when the workman thinks the leather is sufficiently
+wet, he cuts this strap and ascertains whether or not the moisture has
+penetrated to the center. When sufficiently wet, the straps are removed
+from the vat and hung up until the surface moisture has dried off.
+Each strap is then taken in hand, and if the leather has been badly
+fleshed, a spokeshave is used to remove all the superfluous stock. This
+is done by laying the strap on the bench, grain side down, securing the
+end with an awl, and with a sharp tool cutting off the loose scraps and
+thin, veiny portions. Care should be taken, however, to avoid cutting
+away any more of the flesh side than is absolutely necessary, as the
+leather is weakened by so doing. After being cleaned off, the leather
+should be rubbed on the flesh side with a slicker, and laid out on a
+board grain side down; then with brush give each strap a coat of melted
+tallow, warm enough to run freely, but not sufficiently hot to injure
+the leather, and brush it well to work in all the grease possible.
+Allow the straps to remain coated with tallow for twelve hours at
+least, by which time the moisture will have dried out and the tallow
+have struck well into the pores of the leather. No bad results will
+follow if the leather is allowed to remain a much longer time coated
+with the tallow.
+
+After the leather has been in this state a sufficient length of time,
+each strap must be placed upon a bench, grain side down, and secured in
+the same manner as before mentioned; then with a glass slicker rub the
+flesh side thoroughly, working in all the grease possible, the surplus
+being removed by the slicker. Then turn the strap over, and rub down
+the other side to set the grain and give it a fine appearance.
+
+If the straps are to be worked up full, it will not be necessary to rub
+the grain side much, as the rubbing incident to the process of fitting
+up will give it a fine finish. This recurrying is not done solely with
+a view of improving the appearance of the leather, though this alone
+would fully compensate the manufacturer for his trouble, the treatment
+being equally beneficial to its wearing qualities, as the leather is
+made more dense by the rubbing it receives, while the grease is worked
+thoroughly into every fibre, causing it to become soft and flexible.
+
+With ordinary leather, this recurrying will reduce it in thickness
+nearly one third without a particle of its original substance being
+removed. The good effect is not so marked upon poorly-tanned leather
+as it is on that which is well tanned but poorly curried, but the
+improvement in the wearing qualities and appearance is sufficient to
+make it profitable to expend labor in this direction.
+
+The leather used for single-strap track-harness should always be rubbed
+on the flesh side as has been directed, in order to give a fine,
+smooth, and perfect finish, which, after being blacked, will make the
+flesh nearly equal to the grain side. Besides this, the increased
+density given to the leather makes it possible to trim the edges
+smoothly and finish them as finely as the grain, and as this latter
+consideration is one of great importance to all who desire the harness
+to appear smooth and true, they will find it greatly to their advantage
+to follow the above directions when preparing their leather. Common
+harness could be made to appear much neater than is generally the case
+if the same course were followed in the treatment of the leather as
+recommended for fine grades, but as the prices are usually such as to
+render the carrying out of this system unprofitable, the leather can be
+fitted up without extra labor, the straps being moistened by dipping
+them into a pail of water, or by using a sponge. With this kind of
+stock, no more water should be used than is absolutely necessary to
+cause it to work up well.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
+
+
+A very large percentage of all the harness makers in this country look
+upon the idea of measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration,
+but the experience and observation of the most enterprising men in the
+custom trade has convinced them that the reason why there are so many
+ill fitting harness in use is because of the failure of so large a
+number in the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern
+other mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or
+shortened to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without
+detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not
+made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the
+appearance as well as the durability of the harness.
+
+Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short
+or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that
+when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will
+follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this
+position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the
+swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be
+likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be
+marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is
+sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the
+pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band
+of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the
+hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of
+the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration.
+
+With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as
+important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the
+position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the
+collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back,
+the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of
+the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an
+extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap
+tug when the trace is straightened.
+
+The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps,
+girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching
+the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the
+position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well
+as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the
+whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or
+shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles.
+
+Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all
+parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly
+adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse
+upon which they are to be used.
+
+If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses
+sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that
+experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If
+a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for
+horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for
+a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of
+lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A
+light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half
+hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited
+to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy
+harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running
+lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut
+for heavier animals.
+
+The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close
+observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule
+is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or
+subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast
+and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for
+every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse.
+
+[Illustration: COACH HARNESS.]
+
+Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up
+stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for
+different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales
+of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be
+made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well.
+
+In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the
+mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this
+for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and
+also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long
+enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one
+half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the
+ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other
+side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat
+latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below
+the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point
+on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the
+measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers,
+carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the
+point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of
+the tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated
+by the ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast
+collar, measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side,
+around the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a
+corresponding point on the other side. The girth measure must also be
+taken.
+
+If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug,
+designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure
+from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the
+center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back
+of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its
+place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is
+of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market
+tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from
+the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw
+the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a
+corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for
+slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the
+crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and
+deduct three inches for the breeching tugs.
+
+The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the
+strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to
+be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited
+to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another,
+owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all
+cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full.
+
+In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author
+has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not
+claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any
+tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited
+to the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with
+safety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
+
+               BRIDLE.
+                             Length,   Width,
+                             inches.   inches.
+    Crown                       23        1
+    Cheeks                      27        ½
+    Throat latch                30        ½
+    Front                       21        ⅝
+    Winker strap                12        1
+        Split                    7        ⅜
+        Billet                   5        ½
+    Half Kemble Jackson check   25        1
+        Split                   12        ½
+    Gag rein                    24        ⅝
+    Center piece                60        ⅝
+    Billets                     10
+
+               SADDLE.
+    Tree                         3
+    Flaps                       21½      2½
+        Swell                            2¾
+        Points                   9        ⅞
+        Jockeys                  4½      2⅝
+    Belly band                  18       1¾
+        Chapes                   7        ⅞
+    Shaft girth                 29       2
+      Billets                   22        ⅞
+    Back-bands                  20        ⅞
+    Shaft tugs                  18        ⅞
+    Safety strap                45       1
+    Martingale, body            32       1⅜
+        Bottom lay              11        ⅝
+        Ring piece, round       17       ⁷/₁₆
+
+             BREAST-COLLAR.
+    Body                        35       2
+    Neck piece                  38       1¼
+        Ends                              ⅝
+        Chapes                   7        ⅝
+    Traces                      83       1
+        Lap, on breast collar   11
+
+                BREECHING.
+    Body                        38       2
+        Layers                  13       1⅛
+    Hip strap                   43        ⅝
+    Tugs, round                 11        ⅞
+    Chapes                       7        ⅝
+    Turnback                    44       1¼, ⅝
+        Body                             1¼
+    Dock                        14       3½
+    Reins                       72        ⅞
+    Hand parts                  84       1¼
+
+No. 2.
+
+SINGLE ROAD HARNESS—ONE-INCH TRACE.
+
+                 BRIDLE.
+                             Length,   Width,
+                             inches.   inches.
+    Crown layer                 23        ⅝
+    Cheek pieces                27        ½
+    Winker strap                12        1
+        Billet                   5        ½
+        Split, flat              7        ⅜
+    Winkers                      4½      4
+    Front                       21        ⅝
+    Throat latch                30        ½
+    Gag reins                   24        ¾
+    Center piece                60        ½
+    Billets                     10        ½
+
+              BREAST-COLLAR.
+    Layer and trace in one      89       1
+    Neck piece                  48        ⅝
+
+                 SADDLE.
+    Tree                         2½
+    Flaps                       21½      1¾
+        Swell                            2
+    Jockeys                      3¾      1⅝
+    Points                      12        ¾
+    Back-bands                  20        ⅞
+    Shaft tugs                  19        ⅞
+    Belly band                  22        ¾
+    Shaft girth                 28        ¾
+        Billets                 22        ¾
+    Martingale                  41        ¾
+    Bottom lay                  19        ¾
+
+                BREECHING.
+    Breeching layer             45        ¾
+    Hip strap                   45        ⅜
+    Breeching tugs, round       11        ⅞
+    Buckle chapes                7        ⅜
+    Breeching straps            48        ¾
+    Turnback                    44        ⅝
+    Dock                        15       3
+    Reins, flat                 72        ⅞
+    Hand parts                  84       1¼
+
+                   FOLDS.
+    Crown                       11       2¾
+    Breast collar               39       3¾
+    Neck strap                  26       2¾
+    Belly band                  16       3
+    Shaft girth                 28       3
+    Martingale                  32       2¾
+    Breeching                   36       3½
+
+No. 3.
+
+SINGLE HARNESS (BREAST COLLAR).
+
+                  BRIDLE.
+                              Length,   Width,
+                              inches.   inches.
+    Crown piece                 23       1⅛
+        Billets                  6
+    Cheeks                      29        ½
+    Throat latch                28        ½
+    Front, made up              12        ⅝
+    Winkers                      4½      4¾
+    Winker brace                13       1
+        Billet                   5½       ½
+        Split, round             7½
+    Checks                      23        ¾
+           Billets               9        ¾
+    Center piece                60        ⅝
+
+                BREAST-COLLAR.
+    Body layer                  44        ⅞
+        at ends                  1
+    Neck straps                 40        ¾
+        at ends                   ⅝
+    Tugs                         7        ⅝
+    Traces                      78       1
+
+                 GIG SADDLE.
+    Tree                         3
+    Flaps                       21½      2¾
+    Points                       9        ¾
+    Jockeys                      3¾      2⅝
+    Back-bands                  21       1
+    Shaft tugs                  21       1
+    Belly band                  22        ¾
+    Shaft girth                 28        ¾
+        Billets                 20        ¾
+    Martingale                  42       1
+        Bottom                  19        ¾
+
+                 BREECHING.
+    Body layer                  46        ⅞
+    Hip strap                   44        ½
+    Breeching tugs, round       11        ⅞
+    Buckle chapes                7        ½
+    Breeching straps            48       1
+    Turnback                    44        ⅝
+        Body                             1¼
+        Split                    8        ⅜
+    Crupper dock                17½      3
+
+                   FOLDS.
+    Breast collar               36       3
+    Neck piece                  24       2¾
+    Breeching body              37       3
+    Belly band                  17       2¾
+    Shaft girth                 28       2¾
+    Martingale                   3       2½
+
+No. 4.
+
+SINGLE HARNESS (HAME COLLAR).
+
+                BRIDLE.
+                              Length,   Width,
+                              inches.   inches.
+    Crown piece                 23        ⅞
+        Split                    6        ⅝
+    Cheeks                      27        ⅝
+    Throat latch                28        ⅝
+    Front                       21        ¾
+    Winker strap                12       1⅛
+        Billet                   5        ⅝
+        Split, rounded           7
+    Check reins                 23        ¾
+        Billets                  8½       ¾
+    Center piece                60        ⅝
+
+               HAMES, ETC.
+    Hame tugs                   13       1⅛
+    Hame straps, short          17        ⅝
+                 long           20        ⅝
+    Traces                      80       1⅛
+
+               GIG SADDLE.
+    Tree                         3½
+    Flaps                       20       3½
+    Points                      14        ⅞
+    Back straps                 20       1
+    Shaft tugs                  20       1
+    Belly band                  22        ⅞
+    Shaft girth                 30        ⅞
+        Billets                 22        ⅞
+    Martingale                  35        ⅞
+        Bottom lay              19        ⅞
+        Ring piece              20       1¼
+        Split                   16
+
+              BREECHING.
+    Body                        44       1
+    Breeching straps            49       1
+        Tugs                    12        ¾
+    Hip strap                   44        ¾
+    Turnback                    44        ¾
+        at hip                   1½
+    Crupper                     18       3
+
+                FOLDS.
+    Crown                       12       2½
+    Belly band                  17       3
+    Shaft girth                 28       3
+    Martingale                  33       3
+    Breeching                   37       3½
+
+No. 5.
+
+HEAVY COUPÉ HARNESS.
+
+                  BRIDLE.
+                            Length,      Width,
+                            inches.     inches.
+    Crown                       23       1⅜
+    Layer, cut to pattern        9       1½
+    Cheeks                      30        ⅝
+    Front                       22       1¼
+    Winker straps               13       1½
+        Billets                  5        ⅝
+        Split                    8½       ½
+    Winkers                      6       5½
+    Nose piece                  30       1¼
+        Ends at cheeks                    ⅝
+    Throat latch                24        ⅝
+    Round check                 28        ⅞
+    Billets                     10
+    Center check                72        ⅝
+
+                  SADDLE.
+    Tree                         4
+    Flap                        22       3¾
+        Swell                            4
+        Point                   12       1
+    Jockey                       5       3½
+    Back-band (running)         46       1¼
+    Shaft tugs                  24       1⅜
+    Belly band                  26       1¼
+    Shaft girth                 30       1
+        Billets                 23       1
+    Martingale                  34       1
+        Bottom lay              21        ⅞
+
+              HAMES, TRACES.
+    Hames, 4 pounds                       ¾
+    Hame tug, made up           10½      1¼
+        Safes, full length               2½
+        Loops                    4½
+    Traces                      72       1¼
+
+                  BREECHING.
+    Body layer                  52       1¼
+    Hip straps                  48
+        Center                           1¼
+        Swell                            2
+        Split                   16        ¾
+    Tugs                        11        ¾
+    Breeching strap             50        ⅞
+    Turnback                    60        ⅞
+        Body                    20       1¾
+        Split                    9        ¾
+    Dock                        19       3½
+    Kidney strap                34       1
+        Ornament                 3½      2
+
+                   FOLDS.
+    Breeching                   46       3¾
+    Belly band                  17       3½
+    Shaft girth                 19       3½
+
+No. 6.
+
+DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING.
+
+                 BRIDLES.
+                             Length,   Width,
+                             inches.   inches.
+    Crown pieces                23       1
+        Layer, waved             7        ⅝
+    Cheeks                      29        ½
+    Gag runners                  8        ½
+    Throat latches              26        ⅜
+    Winker straps               12       1½
+        Split                    8        ⅜
+        Billets                           ½
+    Winkers                      5¼      4¾
+    Fronts                      30        ⅝
+    Checks                      23        ¾
+    Center parts                60        ½
+    Billets                     10
+
+             HAMES AND TRACES.
+    Hames                               ⁹/₁₆
+    Hame straps                 24        ⅝
+    Hame tugs                      1
+        Safes                   13       1½
+        Loops                    4¾
+        Ends                     5½
+    Traces                      80       1
+    Spread straps               18        ½
+    Link
+
+                  PADS.
+    Top                         17       1⅜
+        Sides                   18       1¼
+        Points                   8        ¾
+    Trace bearers               16       1
+    Housings                    24       2¾
+    Belly bands                 23        ⅞
+    Turnback                    44        ⅝
+        Body                     1⅜
+        Split                    9        ⅜
+    Docks                       14       3
+    Standing martingales        64        ¾
+        Chin parts              12        ½
+    Short reins, rounded        55       1⅛
+    Long reins, rounded         72       1⅛
+    Hand parts                 102       1¼
+
+
+       BREAST COLLARS FOR PATENT YOKE.
+    Body layers                 40       1
+    Loops                        4¾      1
+    Neck straps                 43       1⅛
+        Split, long ends        17½       ½
+               short ends       14½       ½
+        Tugs, short              2¼       ½
+        Tugs, long               2¾       ½
+    Billets on yokes             6        ⅞
+    Yoke straps                 11       1⅛
+    Martingale                  20       1
+    Billets                     12        ¾
+    Safety straps               36        ⅝
+
+                  FOLDS.
+    Belly bands                 17       3½
+    Breast collars              41       4
+    Neck straps                  8       4
+    Martingales                 32       3½
+
+No. 7.
+
+SHORT TUG COACH HARNESS, WITHOUT BREECHING.
+
+                  BRIDLES.
+                             Length,   Width,
+                             inches.   inches.
+    Crown pieces                22       1⅜
+    Cheeks                      28        ⅝
+    Fronts, made up             13       1⅛
+    Throat latch                23        ⅝
+    Winker brace                13       1¼
+        Split, flat              8        ⅜
+        Billet ends                       ⅝
+    Gag runners                  8        ⅝
+    Winkers                      5¾      5¼
+    Cheek loops                  7¼
+    Check reins                 22      ¹³/₁₆
+    Center pieces               60         ⅝
+
+                   PADS.
+    Tops                        17
+        At bilge                         2¼
+        Center                           1⅜
+    Side pieces                 26       1¾
+    Trace bearers               16       1¼
+        Lining                  13       1⅜
+        Point                   10        ⅞
+    Belly bands                 24        ⅞
+    Martingales                 28        ¾
+        Bottoms                 16        ⅝
+        Billets                 13        ¾
+    Standing martingales        60        ¾
+        Mouth pieces            17        ¾
+    Turnbacks                   44        ⅞
+        At docks                         1¾
+        Split                    9        ½
+    Hip straps                  66        ¾
+    Dock                        18       2½
+
+          HAMES AND TRACES.
+    Hames                                 ⅝
+    Hame tugs                   16       1¼
+        Bottoms                 13       2½
+        Loops                    4⅝
+    Hame straps                 28        ⅝
+    Traces                      81       1¼
+    Spread straps               16        ⅝
+
+                 FOLDS.
+    Belly bands                 16       3½
+    Martingales                 30       3½
+
+No. 8.
+
+LONG TUG COACH HARNESS.
+
+               BRIDLES.
+                              Length,  Width,
+                              inches.  inches.
+    Crown pieces                23       1⅜
+        Layers                   9
+    Cheeks                      29        ¾
+    Face pieces                 12        ¾
+        Ornaments                4¼      2
+    Nose pieces                 14       1¼
+        Ends                       ⅞
+    Throat latches              26        ⅝
+    Winkers                      6⅛      5¼
+    Checks for swivel           30        ⅞
+        Plain                   23        ⅞
+    Crown piece billets          8        ¾
+    Center check[1]             60        ¾
+
+           HAMES AND TRACES.
+    Hames                                 ¾
+    Hame tugs, made up          16½      1¼
+        Safe                             2½
+        Loops                    8
+    Traces                      84       1¼
+
+                PADS.
+    Top                         16½
+        Center                           1¾
+        Swell                            2¾
+    Housings                    21½
+    Center                               3½
+        Swell                            5
+    Pad sides                   26       1⅞
+    Points                      10       1
+    Market straps               20       1
+        Swell                            1½
+    Market tugs                 20       1
+        Loops                            4½
+    Belly band, short           23½       ⅞
+                long            35
+    Martingales                 27        ⅞
+    Spread straps               18        ⅝
+    Hame straps                 28        ¾
+
+           BREECHINGS.
+    Layers                      53       1¼
+    Tugs                        13        ¾
+      Loops                      4
+    Hip straps                  27
+        Centers                          1½
+        Ornaments                        2¼
+        Split                   19        ¾
+    Turnbacks                   32½       ¾
+        Bodies                  19       2
+        Layers                  12        ¾
+    Crupper billets              8        ⅝
+    Docks                       17½      3½
+    Short reins                 84       1⅓
+        Rounded                 55
+    Long reins                  84       1⅛
+        Rounded                 72
+    Hand parts                 108       1¼
+
+              FOLDS.
+    Belly band, short           17       3¾
+                long            20
+    Martingales                 32       3½
+    Breechings                  48       4
+
+[1] Other straps same as in No. 7.
+
+No. 9.
+
+ENGLISH FOUR-IN-HAND HARNESS.
+
+               BRIDLES.
+                              Length,  Width,
+                              inches.  inches.
+    Crown pieces                23       1¾
+        Chapes                   2        ¾
+    Cheeks                      10½       ¾
+        Billets                 16        ¾
+    Throat latches              27        ¾
+    Nose bands, middle          12½      1¼
+        Buckle-ends             13        ¾
+    Winker straps               14       1½
+        Split                    8½
+    Face pieces                 13
+    Fronts                      13       1⅜
+    Winkers, square              6½      6½
+    Bearing reins               66        ¾
+    Round reins                 20½      1⅛
+    Running bradoons            26       1⅛
+        Billets                  9        ¾
+
+                PADS, ETC.
+    Tops                        17
+    Bottoms                     21½      2½
+    Point straps                 8       1⅛
+    Girths                      42       2½
+    Girth pieces                15       2½
+    Girth straps                16       1⅛
+    Tug belly bands             52       1⅛
+
+          BREECHINGS, ETC.
+    Bodies                     120       1½
+    Hip straps                  48       1⅛
+    Breeching tugs              13       1½
+    Trace bearers               18       1⅛
+    Turnbacks                   45       1⅛
+        Layers                  14
+        Linings                 59       1⅛
+    Cruppers                    22       1⅛
+    Docks                       16       3
+
+            TRACES, ETC.
+    Traces, made up             78       1½
+    Draw leathers                8       1½
+    Hame tugs                   19½      1½
+        Safes                   22       3
+        At hame end                      2
+    Short tugs                  10       1⅛
+    Tug straps                  18        ¾
+    Bearing martingales         54       1¼
+    Short martingales           42       1¼
+    Leader traces, made up      60       1⅛
+        Hame tugs               18       1⅛
+             Safes              20½
+    All other leader strapping,
+      narrower than wheelers              ⅛
+
+               REINS.
+    Wheeler                     13 feet  1⅛
+    Couplings                    9  ”    1⅛
+    Billets                      1 foot  1⅛
+    Hand parts                   6 feet  1⅛
+    Leader reins                22  ”    1⅛
+
+No. 10.
+
+TANDEM HARNESS.—LEAD-HORSE.
+
+               BRIDLE.
+                              Length,  Width,
+                              inches.  inches.
+    Crown piece                 23       1¼
+        Layer                    7
+    Cheeks                      29        ⅝
+    Throat strap                26        ½
+    Winker strap                12       1½
+        Split                    8
+    Winker                       5       5½
+    Check for swivel            28        ¾
+        Billets                  9        ¾
+    Front, made up              13        ⅞
+    Center check                60        ⅝
+    Reins                      175        ⅞
+
+         PAD AND LONG TUGS.
+    Top                         17       1⅜
+    Housing                     24       3¾
+    Sides                       17       1½
+    Points                      12        ¾
+    Market tug chapes           20        ⅞
+    Market tug billets          20        ⅞
+    Belly band, fold            17       3½
+                Layer           23        ⅞
+    Turnback                    44        ⅝
+        Body                             1½
+        Split                    8
+    Dock                        12       3
+    Hame tugs                   16½      1⅛
+    Traces                      90       1⅛
+    Trace bearers               56
+
+    GIG SADDLE AND SHORT TUGS.
+
+    Tree                         4
+    Flaps                       22       3½
+    Points                      10        ⅞
+    Trace bearers               17       1
+    Hame tugs                   13       1⅛
+    Traces                      92       1⅛
+
+    SHAFT-HORSE.
+
+    Bridle cut ⅛ of an inch heavier than
+      that for lead-horse, the lengths
+      being the same throughout.
+
+    SADDLE.
+
+    Tree                         5
+    Flaps                       23       4¼
+        At swell                         5¾
+    Points                      10       1⅛
+
+    All other parts cut to the same
+      measurements as those of the
+      Coupé harness, No. 5.
+
+No. 11.
+
+MEDIUM WEIGHT SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.
+
+              BRIDLE.
+                               Length,  Width
+                               inches.  inches.
+    Crown piece                 24       1½
+    Cheeks                      30        ¾
+    Throat latch                22        ¾
+    Front                       22        ⅞
+    Winker brace                13       1¼
+        Split                    8
+        Rounded                  7
+    Gag runners                 16        ⅜
+    Face pieces                 26       1¼
+        Split                   10
+    Check reins                 22       1
+        Billets                 10        ¾
+        Center                  60        ⅝
+    Winkers, square              5
+
+             GIG SADDLE.
+    Tree                         5
+    Skirts, width to suit tree  22
+        Points                  12       1¼
+    Belly band, fold            18       5
+    Shaft girth, fold           22       5
+    Chapes                       7       1¼
+    Shaft tugs                  20       1¼
+        Billets                 14       1¼
+        Carriers for saddle     20       1¼
+    Hame tugs                   20       1½
+    Hame straps                 20        ⅞
+    Traces                      74       1½
+
+              BREECHING.
+    Body fold                   38       5
+        Layer                   46       1½
+    Breeching straps            48       1¼
+        Tugs                    12       1
+    Hip strap                   44       2
+        Split                   20
+    Carrying straps             22        ¾
+    Turnback                    44       1
+        Layer                    9
+    Crupper body                18       1½
+        Split                    8
+    Crupper dock                15       2½
+
+No. 12.
+
+HEAVY SINGLE EXPRESS HARNESS.
+
+               BRIDLE.
+                              Length,  Width,
+                              inches.  inches.
+    Crown piece                 22       1¼
+    Cheeks                      29        ¾
+    Throat latch                25        ¾
+    Front                       30       1
+        Made up                 12
+    Winker strap                12½      1¼
+        Split                    7½
+        Billet                   5        ⅝
+    Nose piece                  13        ⅞
+    Checks                      23        ⅞
+    Center piece                60        ⅝
+    Winkers                      5½      5
+
+           HAMES AND TRACES.
+    Hames                                 ⅞
+    Hame tugs                   11       1⅞
+        Loops                    4
+    Traces                      72       1⅞
+    Hame strap, long            23       1
+                short           17       1
+
+                   SADDLE.
+    Tree                         6
+      Flaps                     22       5½
+      Jockies                    6       5¼
+      Points                    10       1¼
+    Back straps                 22       1½
+    Shaft tugs                  26       1½
+        Billets                 14       1¼
+    Chapes, long belly band      8       1¼
+            short belly band     8       1¼
+    Martingale                  29       1¼
+        Billet                  14       1
+
+                BREECHING.
+    Layer                       48       1½
+    Tugs                         9       1
+    Hip straps                  48       1
+    Turnback                    46       1¼
+    Dock                        16       3
+    Breeching straps            58       1¼
+    Reins                                1
+
+                   FOLDS.
+    Breeching                   41       5
+    Belly band, short           17       4½
+                long            22       4½
+    Martingale                  32       4½
+    Turnback                    22       2¼
+
+No. 13.
+
+LONG TUG TEAM HARNESS, SOFT PAD.
+
+                    BRIDLES.
+                              Length,   Width,
+                              inches.   inches.
+    Crown pieces                24       1⅝
+        Split                    7
+        Cheek billets                     ⅞
+        Throat latch billets              ¾
+    Cheeks                      30        ⅞
+    Fronts                      24        ⅞
+          fitted up             16½
+    Winker straps               15       1½
+                rounded          9
+    Face pieces                 22       1⅛
+              Split             11
+    Throat latches              24        ¾
+    Winkers                      5⅞      5½
+    Inside checks               60        ¾
+    Outside checks              26        ¾
+    Billets                     10        ¾
+
+    PADS, ETC.
+
+    Tops                        22       1¾
+    Ends                                 1½
+    Ring pieces                 26       1¼
+              Center rounded     5
+    Nut pieces                  18       1¾
+    Skirt straps                32       1¼
+    Back strap                  60       1¾
+          Split                 52
+          Chapes                 9       1¾
+          Layers                12       1¼
+
+                BREECHING.
+    Folds                       44       5
+    Layers                      54       1¼
+    Chapes for lead up                   6½
+    Layers                      11        ⅞
+    Side straps                 68       1
+    Lazy straps                 44       1
+
+               TRACES, ETC.
+    Traces, fitted up           72       1¾
+    Hame tugs, fitted up        18       1¾
+          Billets               16       1½
+    Belly band folds            18       5½
+          Chapes                 7       1½
+    Pole straps                 54       1¾
+    Breast straps               66       1¾
+    Collar straps               32       1
+    Hame straps, bottom         26       1
+                 top            28       1
+
+No. 14.
+
+LONG TUG FARM HARNESS.
+
+    BRIDLES.
+                              Length,   Width,
+                              inches.   inches.
+    Crown pieces                24       1¼
+        Ends split               7½       ⅝
+    Cheeks                      17        ⅝
+    Bit straps                  11½       ⅝
+    Throat latches, long        13        ⅝
+                    short       11        ⅝
+    Winker straps               13       1¼
+        Split, flat              8        ½
+               round             8        ⅝
+        Billet                   5        ⅝
+    Fronts                      12       1¼
+    Face pieces                 22       1
+        Split                   10
+        rounded                  7
+    Checks                      24        ⅞
+        rounded                 15
+    Center                      60        ⅝
+    Billets                              8⅞
+
+         PADS, TRACES, ETC.
+    Pad tops, soft pad          36       1¼
+        Layers                  50       1⅞
+        Billets                 16       1¼
+    Belly band fold             21       5
+        Billets                 14       1¼
+    Hame tugs                   17       1½
+    Traces                      72       1½
+    Hame straps, long           22       1
+                 short          20       1
+    Holdbacks                   52       1½
+    Breast straps               52       1½
+    Turnbacks                   36       1
+    Crupper bodies              17       1¼
+    Docks                       14       3
+        Billets                           ⅝
+    Lines                                 ⅞
+    Billets                      9        ⅞
+
+No. 15.
+
+WAGON HARNESS WITH ADJUSTABLE TREES.
+
+                 BRIDLES.
+                              Length,  Width,
+                              inches.  inches.
+    Crown pieces                24       1⅝
+        Split at ends            6  ⅞ and ¾
+    Cheeks                      30        ⅞
+    Throat latches, long        20        ¾
+                    short       12        ¾
+    Fronts                      22        ⅞
+    Round reins                 22       1
+        rounded                 16
+    Center pieces               60        ¾
+    Winker brace                11       1
+    Winker, wing pattern         7       4
+
+                 PADS, ETC.
+    Hame tugs                   36       1½
+      With cockeyes and chains  76
+    Adjustable trees, No. 6.
+    Pad skirt                   16       3½
+        Layer, also to line     20       1¼
+               billets
+        Billets                 16       1¼
+        Bottoms                 18       6
+    Belly band folds            18       5
+        Chapes                   7       1¼
+        Billets                 16       1¼
+
+                  BREECHING.
+    Body folds                  39       5
+        Layers                  48       1¼
+        Tugs                    12        ⅞
+    Side straps                 72        ⅞
+    Hip straps                  26       1¾
+        Split                   20
+    Crupper body                16       1½
+        Split                    8
+        Dock, folded            14       2½
+    Back straps,                42       1
+         to sew in rump rings
+    Breast straps               56       1½
+    Holdbacks                   50       1¼
+    Hame and carrying straps    22        ⅞
+
+                TRIMMINGS.
+     2 pairs common low top wooden hames,
+     2 bits,
+     4 1½-inch cockeyes,
+     6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
+     4 1-inch     ”        ”
+     4 ⅞-inch     ”        ”
+    12 1¼-inch buckles,
+     2 1½-inch    ”
+    20 ⅞-inch     ”
+    16 ¾-inch     ”
+     4 1½-inch trace buckles,
+     4 gag-swivels.
+
+No. 16.
+
+ADJUSTABLE PAD DOUBLE HARNESS, TO BE USED ALSO AS SINGLE HARNESS.
+
+                BRIDLES.
+                             Length,    Width,
+                             inches.    inches.
+    Crown piece                 24       1¼
+        Split                    7½       ⅝
+    Cheek pieces                16        ⅝
+    Bit straps                  10        ⅝
+    Fronts                      22       1
+    Throat straps               20        ⅝
+    Face pieces                 23       1
+        Split                   10½
+    Winker braces               13       1
+        Split, rounded           7
+    Winkers                      4¾      4¼
+    Check reins                 22        ⅞
+    Center pieces               56        ⅝
+
+             ADJUSTABLE PADS.
+    Skirts                      20
+        Points                  14       1
+        Pads                     6
+    Back-bands                  38       1
+
+                TRACES, ETC.
+    Traces                      78       1½
+    Hame tugs                   10       1½
+    Belly bands, folded         19       3¾
+        Chapes                   6       1
+    Martingales, folded         30       3
+        Billets, collar         16        ⅞
+        Points                  10        ⅝
+    Pole straps                 48       1¼
+    Yoke straps                 48       1¼
+
+             BREECHINGS.
+    Body fold                   39       3¾
+        Layers                  45       1⅛
+        Tugs, long              12        ⅝
+              short             10        ⅝
+    Hip straps                  26        ⅝
+    Back straps                 36        ⅞
+    Reins                       78        ⅞
+
+               TRIMMINGS.
+     2 pair low top wood hames,
+     2 adjustable trees,
+     4 1½-inch trace buckles,
+     4 1¼-inch roller buckles—for breast and neck-straps,
+    14 1-inch buckles,
+     6 ⅞-inch    ”
+    24 ⅝-inch    ”
+     4 breeching rings,
+     8 ¾-inch rings.
+
+No. 17.
+
+PENNSYLVANIA WAGON HARNESS.
+
+                  BRIDLES.
+                                     Length,  Width,
+                                     inches.  inches.
+    Crown pieces                        22      1¼
+    Cheek pieces, long billet side      48      1¼
+                  short billet side     36      1¼
+    Throat latch                        39        ¾
+    Nose band                           18      1⅛
+    Winker straps                       12      1¼
+                  Split                  9
+    Front                               26      1⅛
+    Winkers                              5½     5
+    Check reins                         78      1
+    Bit straps                          12        ⅞
+
+                   BREECHING.
+    Butt pieces                         56      4
+    Hip pieces                          58      4
+    Cross pieces                        62      1½
+    Side straps                         54      1½
+    Braces                              24      3
+    Hip straps                          36      1½
+    Back-band                           46      4
+          Chapes                        14      3
+          Short-top stay                 8      1¼
+    Back strap                          66      3
+          Split                          8
+          Chapes, for square on rump     8      2
+    Dock, folded                        15      2½
+    Belly band, long side               34      1½
+          Billet                        24      1½
+    Carrying straps                     22       ⅞
+    Hame straps                         22       ⅞
+    Chain pipes                         30      5
+
+                  TRIMMINGS.
+     2 pair hook hames, high top,
+    4 trace chains,
+     4 large rings, or D’s, for breeching,
+     2 bits,
+     2 1½-inch buckles—breast strap,
+     2 triangles for rump,
+     6 1½-inch buckles,
+     2 1¼-inch   ”
+    16 ⅞-inch    ”
+     2 1-inch    ”
+     4 ¾-inch    ”
+
+No. 18.
+
+STAGE HARNESS.
+
+                         BRIDLES.
+                                        Length,  Width,
+                                        inches.  inches.
+    Crown pieces                          24       1½
+            Split                          7
+    Cheeks                                30        ¾
+    Throat latches                        22        ¾
+    Winker straps                         13       1¼
+            Split                          8
+    Front                                 22       1⅛
+      Made up                             12
+    Reins, in one piece                   78        ¾
+
+    PADS, ETC.
+
+    Tops                                  36       1¾
+      Points cut down to                           1¼
+    Tugs and belly band billets combined  30       1¼
+    Center piece                           9       1
+    Belly band folds                      20       5
+            Chapes                         7       1¼
+    Traces                                64       2
+    Stay loops, sewed in the trace        12       1¼
+    Breast straps                         56       1½
+    Holdbacks                             42       1¼
+            Billets                       15       1¼
+    Collar straps                         30       1
+            Chapes                         6       1
+    Hame straps                           22        ⅞
+    Carrying straps                       22        ⅞
+
+                    BREECHINGS.
+    Folds                                 39       5
+      Layers                              48       1¼
+      Tugs                                12        ⅞
+    Breeching straps                      72        ⅞
+    Back straps, or turnbacks             56       1¼
+    Crupper bodies                        16       1½
+            Split                          8
+    Dock, folds                           14       2½
+    Hip straps                            30       1¾
+            Split                         20
+
+                     TRIMMINGS.
+     2 pairs high top Concord hames,
+     2 bridle bits,
+     2 pairs two-foot chains with D ends,
+    14 1¼-inch buckles,
+     2 1½-inch    ”
+    16 ⅞inch      ”
+     2 1-inch     ”
+    20 ¾inch      ”
+     6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
+     6 1¼-inch     ”
+     4 1-inch      ”
+     4 gag-swivels.
+
+No. 19.
+
+BITTING HARNESS.
+
+                  BRIDLE.
+                                Length,   Width,
+                                inches.   inches.
+    Crown piece                   24        2
+            Split                  7
+    Cheeks                        13        1¼
+            Billets                9        1¼
+    Throat latch                  22         ¾
+    Front                         24        1
+        Made up                   12
+    Throat latch                  22         ¾
+    Swivel strap                  18         ⅝
+    Gag rein, long side           66         ⅞
+                   rounded        16
+            short  side           24         ⅞
+                   rounded        16
+    Side reins                    42       12
+            Billets                9
+    Martingale to buckle back     54        1¼
+            Split                 15
+    Surcingle, web                63
+                padded            16
+    Billets on broad web          24        1
+            Chapes                 6        1
+    Pad layer and billets         18        1
+    Side chapes                   21        1
+    Turnback, sewed in rump ring  42        1
+    Crupper body                  16        1½
+            Split                  8
+    Dock                          16        2⅛
+
+                 TRIMMINGS.
+     1 bit,
+     2 martingale rings,
+     1 1¼-inch ring,
+     3 1⅛-inch rings,
+     5 1¼-inch buckles,
+    10 1-inch    ”
+     3 ⅞-inch    ”
+     5 ¾-inch    ”
+
+In making up, measure off 24 inches from the billet end of the web for
+the center of the pad, which should be 16 inches long; sew on the chape
+for the billet, and turn back the ring across the center of the pad;
+measure off from the center 22 inches on each side for the side check,
+chapes of ring, and buckles; buckle back the rump stay strap with a
+reverse buckle and slip loops.
+
+No. 20.
+
+CART HARNESS.
+
+                BREECHING.
+                                 Length,   Width,
+                                 inches.   inches.
+    Body                           75        4
+        Layer, to extend to ring   64        2½
+    Hip strap                      54        1¼
+        Tugs                       14        1¼
+    Kidney strap                   58        1¼
+        Tugs                       14        1¼
+    Back strap                     34        1½
+        Safe-piece                 14        4
+    Layer or buckle piece          14        1½
+    Belly band, long               60        2½
+        Billet                     24        2½
+
+    Bridle same as stage harness, No. 18.
+
+                TRIMMINGS.
+    1 saddle tree,
+    1 pair hook hames,
+    1 back chain,
+    2 holdback chains,
+    2 trace chains,
+    2 loop end pins for breeching,
+    1 2½-inch ring for rump,
+    4 1⅛-inch rings,
+    6 1-inch buckles,
+    8 ¾-inch   ”
+    1 2½-inch buckle,
+    1 1½-inch  ”
+    1 1¼-inch  ”
+    1 plain ring bit.
+
+No. 21.
+
+MULE HARNESS.
+
+            BRIDLES.
+                        Length,    Width,
+                        inches.   inches.
+    Crown pieces          24         1½
+        Split              7
+    Cheeks                30          ⅞
+    Throat latches        22          ¾
+    Winker straps         13         1¼
+        Split              8
+    Front                 22         1⅛
+    Reins, in one piece   78          ¾
+
+             PADS.
+    Top                   34         1¾
+    Belly band folds      18         5
+        Chapes             7         1¼
+    Hame tugs             32         1½
+    Breeching fold        34         5
+    Hip straps            24         1¾
+        Split             18
+    Side straps           62          ⅞
+    Turnback              52         1
+
+No. 22.
+
+SHORT TUG BUTT CHAIN HARNESS.
+
+                                         Length,   Width,
+                                         inches.   inches.
+    Hame tugs, to sew in side loops         36       1½
+    Short tugs for chains                   52       1½
+    Pad fold                                20       6
+        Layer, to include billet linings    48       1¼
+    Center lay for back strap                8       1
+    Bridle reins                            78        ¾
+
+    All other parts the same as No. 16.
+
+    TRIMMINGS.
+
+     2 pairs of common high top hames,
+     2 common bits,
+     4 breeching loops for tugs,
+     2 pairs of butt chains,
+     6 1¾-inch breeching rings,
+     4 1-inch      ”       ”
+     4 ⅞-inch      ”       ”
+    12 1¼-inch buckles,
+     2 1½-inch    ”
+    20 ⅞-inch     ”
+    16 ¾-inch     ”
+     4 1½-inch trace buckles.
+
+
+TRIMMINGS FOR CARRIAGE-HARNESS.
+
+No. 1.
+
+Page 64.
+
+     2 1⅜ or 1½-inch terrets,
+     1 bolt-hook to match,
+     2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+     9 ½-inch buckles,
+    10 ⅝-inch   ”
+     6 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+     2 gag-swivels,
+     2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
+     2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
+     1 half-cheek trotting-snaffle,
+     2 ⅝-inch rings,
+     4 saddle-nails.
+
+No. 2.
+
+Page 66.
+
+    2 1¼-inch terrets,
+    1 No. 4 bolt-hook,
+    1 No. 2 fly terret,
+    1 front,
+    2 rosettes,
+    2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+    2 gag-swivels,
+    2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
+    2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
+    4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+    2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,
+    8 ½-inch bridle-buckles,
+    3 ⅝-inch buckles,
+    5 ¾-inch roller-buckles,
+    2 ⅜-inch buckles,
+    2 ¾-inch rings,
+    1 half-cheek snaffle.
+
+No. 3.
+
+Page 68.
+
+    2 1⅜ or 1½ inch terrets,
+    1 bolt-hook to match,
+    2 1-inch trace-buckles,
+    2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+    9 ½-inch buckles,
+    7 ¾-inch    ”
+    5 ⅝-inch    ”
+    2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,
+    2 1-inch roller-buckles,
+    2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
+    2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,
+    1 snaffle-bit,
+    2 gag-swivels,
+    2 ⅝-inch rings,
+    4 saddle-nails.
+
+No. 4.
+
+Page 70.
+
+    1 pair ¹¹/₁₆-inch hames,
+    2 1½ or 1⅝-inch terrets,
+    1 bolt-hook to match,
+    2 1⅛-inch trace-buckles,
+    2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+    4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+    3 ⅞-inch buckles,
+    5 ¾-inch    ”
+    12 ⅝-inch   ”
+    2 gag-swivels,
+    1 fly-terret,
+    2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,
+    2 1⅜-inch martingale-rings,
+    2 rosettes,
+    1 snaffle-bit.
+
+No. 5.
+
+Page 72.
+
+     1 pair ¾-inch hames,
+     2 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,
+     1 bolt-hook to match,
+     1 fly-terret to match,
+     2 1¼-inch trace-buckles,
+     2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+     4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+     2 1¼-inch     ”
+     1 ⅞ inch buckle,
+     6 ¾-inch buckles,
+    11 ⅝-inch   ”
+     1 Hanoverian or scroll bit,
+     2 rosettes,
+     1 chain or link front,
+     2 gag-runners (hooks and eyes),
+     2 1½-inch breeching rings,
+     2 ⅝-inch rings,
+     4 saddle-nails.
+
+No. 6.
+
+Page 74.
+
+     1 pair ⁹/₁₆-inch hames,
+     2 1¼ or 1⅜-inch terrets,
+     2 fly or post hooks to match,
+     2 fly-terrets,
+     4 1-inch trace-buckles,
+     8 pad-screws,
+     6 ¾-inch roller-buckles,
+     4 ⅝-inch       ”
+     8 1-inch       ”
+     2 ⅝-inch buckles,
+     2 ⅜-inch   ”
+    24 ½-inch   ”
+     4 ⅝-inch rings,
+     2 Hanoverian or snaffle bits,
+     2 hame-rings,
+     4 gag-runners.
+
+No. 7.
+
+Page 76.
+
+     1 pair ⅝-inch hames,
+     4 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,
+     2 fly-hooks to match,
+     2 fly-terrets,
+     4 1¼-inch trace-buckles,
+     4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+     4 ⅝-inch       ”
+     2 ⅞-inch buckles,
+     4 ¾-inch    ”
+    20 ⅝-inch   ”
+     2 scroll or Hanoverian bits,
+     4 rosettes,
+     4 gag-runners,
+     2 hame-rings,
+     2 crupper-loops,
+     4 ⅝-inch rings,
+     8 pad-screws.
+
+No. 8.
+
+Page 78.
+
+     1 pair ¾-inch hames,
+     4 1⅝ or 1¾ inch terrets,
+     2 fly or post hooks,
+     2 fly-terrets,
+     4 1¼-inch center-bar loop trace-buckles,
+     4 1-inch tug-buckles,
+     8 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,
+    30 ¾-inch buckles,
+     8 ⅝-inch   ”
+     4 ⅝-inch rings,
+     2 stiff scroll or Hanoverian bits,
+     2 Bradoon bits,
+     4 Bradoon swivels,
+     4 gag-swivels (hooks and links),
+     2 hame-rings,
+    12 pad-screws,
+     2 crupper-loops,
+     4 pad-loops.
+
+Nos. 9 and 10.
+
+Pages 80 and 82.
+
+The trimmings for these harness are the same as for the regular sets
+of double or single, with the exception of the ring-rosettes for the
+bridles of the pole or shaft horses.
+
+No. 11.
+
+Page 84.
+
+     1 pair ⅞-inch hames,
+     2 1¾-inch terrets,
+     1 post or bolt hook to match,
+     1 fly-terret,
+     2 1½-inch trace-buckles,
+     2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+     6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,
+     5 1-inch buckles,
+     1 ⅞-inch roller-buckle,
+    14 ¾-inch buckles,
+     1 plain ring-bit,
+     2 rosettes,
+     2 gag-runners,
+     2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,
+     2 martingale-rings,
+     1 plain front,
+     2 ¾-inch rings,
+     4 saddle-nails.
+
+No. 12.
+
+Page 86.
+
+    1 pair ⅞-inch hames,
+    2 1⅞-inch terrets,
+    1 post or bolt hook,
+    1 fly-terret,
+    2 1⅞-inch trace-buckles,
+    2 1½-inch shaft-tug buckles,
+    6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,
+    4 1-inch buckles,
+    1 1-inch roller-buckle,
+    1 1¾-inch buckles,
+    1 ring-bit,
+    2 rosettes,
+    2 gag-runners,
+    2 1⅝-inch breeching-rings,
+    1 band-front,
+    4 saddle-nails.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
+
+
+The man who performs his work well and quickly, possesses a capital
+which can always be invested to good advantage to himself and his
+employer; while the lack of the necessary skill and knowledge to
+accomplish these results acts as a serious drawback to success. In
+almost every factory there are those who, if they had received proper
+instruction when learning their trade, would have made first-class
+mechanics, but who, because of neglect on their own part, or on that
+of their instructors, lack confidence in themselves when brought in
+contact with others, and are content to hold secondary positions,
+passing through life without benefit to their profession or profit to
+themselves. Want of system is the great underlying fault, and is the
+principal reason why success is so seldom attained.
+
+The journeyman who works at his bench in a careless, hap-hazard manner
+can not perform his part well, and is almost certain to interfere with
+the labor of those near him, while by his example he inculcates in the
+minds of the apprentices the same disregard for order and system as
+exhibited by himself, thus working a permanent injury to all with whom
+he comes in contact.
+
+[Illustration: BREAST COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.]
+
+There is on the part of mechanics a general disinclination to listen
+to advice based upon theory, and from a knowledge of this fact the
+author has prepared the following practical instructions in harness
+making in its various parts, believing the end sought could better
+be accomplished in this way than in any other. While it is not to
+be expected that the rules here laid down can be followed in every
+particular, it is believed that there is much that will be found
+instructive and useful even to the most experienced journeyman, and
+which if studied by the apprentice, or the journeyman who has been
+deprived of opportunities to learn his business in detail, will serve
+to advance them far more rapidly towards a mastery of their trade than
+if they depended solely upon the ideas and practices acquired at the
+work-bench.
+
+The instructions given for making up a single harness will serve as a
+general guide which may be followed in almost every case, as they point
+out the routine to be followed and the manner of handling the stock.
+
+To facilitate the execution of the labor and secure good results, the
+workman must so fit up the various parts that the stitcher can perform
+one class of work at a time; it will not do to call upon him to stitch
+a round, then a loop, followed by folds and other parts. As far as
+possible the rounds should be prepared at one time, the breeching,
+hip, turnback, and other plain straps at another, then the folds,
+loops, laps, and all other parts where there is any considerable work
+of a kind, each by themselves, not perhaps in the order named, but in
+such a manner that each particular class of work can be done without
+interfering with another. In the following instructions for fitting up
+a single harness, the rotation is such as to cause but little annoyance
+to the stitcher, while at the same time the fitter is not compelled to
+wait for any thing.
+
+The plan here detailed is that followed in a factory where the leather
+is cut out and given to the fitter, and the stitching done by men who
+do nothing else. The leather being on the work-bench, the first act
+is to wet all the stock thoroughly in blood-warm water, but care must
+be taken to expose it to moisture long enough to draw the oil to the
+surface; then skive down all the straps or parts thereof that are to
+be made up into rounds, such as the winker brace, gag runners, center
+of breast collar, shaft tugs, and crupper dock. Slick them out and lay
+them aside to dry, then with a sharp spokeshave remove the flesh quite
+closely from the crown piece, check rein billets, belly band billets,
+center-piece, and cheeks; slick them out, apply a thick coat of clean
+tallow, and lay them aside to dry where they will not be exposed to the
+sun or to the heat from a stove, as such exposure will turn the stock
+dark and cause the tallow to spew. The fleshing is not necessary on
+fine stock, but where it is requisite it should be done at this time.
+Next skive the breeching, belly band, breast collar, and neck piece
+layers, slick them out and lay them aside to dry; then skive down the
+trace fillings or raise to the required thickness, and take the edges
+down thin with a wide edge tool. Next proceed to skive down the top
+and bottom, and slick them out, after which raise the top and paste
+in the filling (avoid using more paste than is absolutely necessary),
+moisten the top of the trace with a damp sponge and rub it down with a
+bone, reverse the straps so that the butts will run up on the outside
+and down on the inside, then paste on the bottom, wet it in the same
+manner as directed for the top, rub it down with a bone, and then rub
+the trace well with a rag: this will give the grain a fine, soft finish
+that can not be secured in any other way. Then skive down the tops
+and bottoms of the breeching straps, slick them out, block, crease,
+and punch holes in the bottom for the buckles; take the edges down on
+the bottom to form the raise on the top, raise the latter, and paste
+down for a distance of four feet; skive the tops and bottoms of the
+hip straps, slick them out, and take down the edges of the bottoms to
+form the raise for the tops; cut them off three feet eight inches long,
+round the ends, paste on the tops, and rub them with a bone and rag;
+lay them aside, and when they are sufficiently dry so that the paste
+will not move they are ready to sink, but do not dry them in the sun or
+near the fire, as such heat will harden the stock and cause the paste
+to dry unevenly.
+
+Next fit up the shaft tug—eight inches for a seven-eighth inch tug—the
+straps being cut one and one eighth inches wide. Take off one eighth
+of an inch on each edge of the portion to be fitted up, raise and
+fill in the remaining portion so as to take up the quarter inch that
+was trimmed off the outside, channel the inside so that the stitches
+will be buried out of sight, and lay them aside to dry. Now fit the
+dock, mark off and cut it out, crease the edges with a fine crease,
+prick off twelve inches, take the edges down quite thin and bend the
+two together. Next fit the rounds, commencing with those for the gag
+runners and following with those for the throat latch and breast
+collar. Take the edge off the full length of the part to be rounded,
+and channel with a small round knife from the edge. The gag runners
+for a half-inch bridle require to be channeled four inches, the
+center-piece for a breast collar four and one half inches, and the
+throat latch sixteen inches; hammer the straps down, and fill them if
+they require it.
+
+The winker brace is the next strap to be prepared. The billet is four
+and one half inches long; raise and crease it, hammer up the rounds
+(which are seven and three quarter inches long), line the billet, and
+allow the end of the lining to enter the round one inch; have the
+latter stitched, paste the billet down, and crease it when dry. Next
+prepare the breeching tugs. The round for the front one should be
+channeled three and three quarter inches, the back one four inches;
+black the part which passes around the rings, prick in the center,
+and tack in the rings. Follow these by the martingale. Mark off three
+quarters of an inch from the end to round in, then five inches for
+laps, channel seven inches, raise, crease, and black the laps; mark
+out, cut, and crease the layers; hammer up and fill the rounds, and
+have them stitched; then prick off the laps and have them stitched.
+Next fit up the turnback. First mark off two inches for the laps on the
+ends of the dock billets; channel seven inches for the rounds; raise
+the laps, then mark off and cut out the wave, skive down the edges,
+hammer up the rounds, and fit the lining, allowing it to extend down
+so as to form the filling for the rounds; have the latter stitched,
+round them up, and paste up the turnback; when dry, mark off the wave
+the full length, and sink the crease for the stitching. Go over all
+lined straps and turnback, after having marked off the wave or other
+pattern, with a sharp tickler, then heat the heavy sinker and finish
+the sinking. Slick the tallow off the crown and center pieces, cheeks,
+belly band and check rein billets, and spokeshave the edges to clean
+them thoroughly. Then fit up the check reins, round the points of the
+billets, take a light edge off the flesh side, but do not disturb the
+grain; dampen the edges with a sponge and water, rub them with a bone
+until they are smooth, and, when dry, black, and rub them with prepared
+tallow, composed of one third part beeswax and two third parts pure
+beef tallow; rub them with a bone and then with a rag, so that the
+flesh side will be kept clean, crease the edges with a hot iron, crease
+and apply a little gum tragacanth (prepared by dissolving the gum in
+water and adding good black ink to give it color and preserve it), then
+rub with a bone.
+
+Proceed in like manner to fit up and finish the centercheck, belly band
+billets, cheek billets, and crown-piece billets, after which prepare
+the stock for the round check reins. First measure off three inches for
+laps at billet ends, next fourteen inches for rounds, then four and
+one half inches for laps at rings, and three quarters of an inch to
+round in; cut the laps at the ring down to full one half inch in the
+center, and taper each way; leave the full substance where the leather
+turns round the rings, hammer up and fill the rounds, and have them
+stitched before fitting up the laps. Then mark off and cut out the
+patent leather winkers, frogs, etc. Scratch the lines for stitching,
+black over, and rub in a little tallow where scratched, and go over
+with a heavy sinker, which will tend to improve the appearance after
+the stitching is done. Paste up the winkers, but be careful to avoid
+wetting the patent leather, as the water will cause it to lose its
+fine gloss; stitch up the joining seam, leaving about three quarters
+of an inch on the top edge near the corner for the winker strap; apply
+a little paste to the inside of the winker plate, shove it in between
+the lining and the patent leather, and rub down on the outside with
+a gig or “jakee,” then apply a little paste to the inside where it
+goes between the cheek straps, and tack down on a board to dry. When
+thoroughly dry, trim off with a knife and spokeshave the edges; dampen
+them with a sponge and rub with a bone, allowing the leather to become
+dry before blacking. After being blacked, tack the winker in its place
+between the cheek-straps. Next mark out by the patterns the layers
+for the breeching, breast collar, neck piece, belly bands, and crown
+piece, cut them out and take down the edges with a wide edge tool, then
+spokeshave them to remove the ridges, wet and raise them on the raise
+block, rub off with a rag, crease with a double creaser, and then go
+over them with a sinker; when dry, black the edges and prick off. Cut
+out and raise the safes for the breast collars and belly bands, paste
+them on the folds, and when nearly dry double crease them; prick off
+when dry, have them stitched and afterwards trim them off, wet all the
+folds, hammer them down, put in the filling, sew up, crease the edges,
+and tack them on the layers.
+
+Finishing up the rounds is the next thing in order. Wet them and trim
+off the fillings, hammer down and pull them through the rounder, clean
+off with a spokeshave if necessary, black them, rub on a little tallow,
+pull them through the rounder again, and rub them down with a wooden
+rounder and a little gum. Wet the docks, hammer down the seams over a
+wire, stuff with flaxseed, working it down with a wire, trim the edge
+with an edge tool, black it, and rub down with a wooden creaser to fit
+the seam; bend the dock to the required shape, and lay it aside to dry.
+
+Next punch the breeching, hip straps, and turnbacks, wet them, slick
+down the stitching from the back side, and rub the tops with a rag;
+crease the edges over with a hot iron creaser; trim the projecting
+edges of the turnback lining with a round knife, then take off a heavy
+edge with a spokeshave, and trim with a straight knife where it is
+necessary; dampen the edges with a moist sponge, and rub smooth with a
+bone; when dry, black them and rub on a little tallow, after which rub
+with a bone and a rag, and finish with a bone and a little gum. When
+the dock becomes dry, polish it with a hot burnisher and tack it on the
+turnback; have the laps stitched, trim and finish them up. Then trim
+and finish the shaft tugs, and polish the insides with a burnisher.
+Trim and finish the cheeks, put in the winker brace and stitch it. Trim
+the traces, punch and then wet them, slick them on the back, hammer the
+edges down with a “snob” or shoemaker’s hammer, and square them with a
+spokeshave; then with a heavy edge tool take the edge off the top and
+bottom, spokeshave them, trim the ends and around the dart holes with a
+straight knife, dampen the edges and rub them down with an awl handle
+(one that will fit the trace); when dry, black the edges, rub on the
+tallow, and again rub with the awl handle; then rub off with a rag and
+afterwards with the awl handle and a little gum. Next finish the folds
+by wetting the backs, with a moist sponge, then slick them down, wet
+the tops a little and rub them down with a rag, crease the edges of the
+layers with a hot creaser, and recrease the folds. This completes the
+harness in detail, and offers a perfectly accurate guide for a workman,
+whether working by himself or in a factory.
+
+Uniformity can be obtained only by the use of good patterns, and it
+is to the interest of every harness maker that they be kept in good
+condition. To do this, cut them out of paper and paste them on thin,
+stiff patent leather, then, when the paste is dry, cut the leather to
+the shape of the paper patterns. All patterns for breechings, breast
+collars, neck pieces, belly bands, turnbacks, martingales, and crown
+pieces should be cut to the full length, and if cut at the same time to
+the required width it will obviate the necessity of moving them while
+marking off on the leather. The pattern for the trace wave should be
+cut one half the length of the trace.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+MAKING SINGLE STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
+
+
+The single strap track harness owes its origin to the demand for a
+light, close-fitting, medium priced article for use on the trotting
+course. Originally the collar and traces only were made of single
+straps, the breeching and other parts being made in the usual manner.
+The superiority of this method of making the collar, however, soon
+became so apparent that the breechings and all other portions were made
+to correspond, and now few harness made up in other ways are used on
+the trotting tracks, while very many of this style can be seen upon
+trotters on the roads and pleasure drives, and so popular have they
+become that there are few sections of the country where they are not
+used to a greater or less extent.
+
+[Illustration: HAME COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.]
+
+Notwithstanding their being made up of single thickness of leather
+and in the plainest manner, the exercise of more than ordinary skill
+and attention is required to perfect them, as in their make-up they
+represent the minimum amount of weight, and yet must of necessity
+possess great strength. This result can be attained only by using
+leather of the best quality. Sides of uneven substance can not be
+employed to good advantage, owing to the fact that much of the
+strongest portion of the leather is necessarily wasted in reducing all
+the straps to a uniform thickness. Young steer-hides weighing about
+sixteen pounds to the side are the best: they not only give better
+satisfaction when made up, but they are more economical, owing to the
+small amount of waste incurred. But even with these sides only the
+backs should be used, as strength is the great end to be sought after.
+
+Having selected a side possessing the requisite qualifications, cut
+from the strongest portion the traces and all other straps except
+those for the breast collar, breeching, and bridle. These can be cut
+from lighter sides, those weighing from ten to twelve pounds being the
+best. When the single strap harness were first manufactured the breast
+collar and breeching bodies were cut from regular weight stock, and
+the edges skived off from the underside, but experience has shown that
+lighter sides are much more suitable, the leather being more pliant and
+stronger in proportion to its weight, the strapping when made up sets
+closer to the horse, and the edges do not roll after being in use for
+a short time. This latter qualification is of the greatest importance,
+and should of itself cause the use of light leather.
+
+When extra fine curried leather can not be procured, well tanned stock,
+treated as has been directed on page 55, will answer for all but the
+finest grades, as it will possess the requisite strength, and in many
+cases can be given a fine finish. Let the leather be what it may,
+however, the flesh side should be well cleaned off and worked down with
+a slicker, as the slightest roughness would detract from the appearance
+of the harness, while adding to the possibility of injury to the horse
+from chafing.
+
+The most important parts of this harness are shown by the sectional
+drawings on page 125. I represents a section of the breast-collar, with
+trace attached. The trace, A, is of single thickness; the lap on the
+body is eleven inches long, cut as shown or to some other ornamental
+pattern. The ring to which the neck strap tug is attached is placed
+five inches from the end of the body; the trace is stitched on with
+from ten to fourteen stitches to the inch according to the grade of
+the harness. The neck strap tug is quite short, and is provided with
+a three eighth inch loop above the buckle, and a seven-eighth inch
+loop below. When made up to measure, the tug is often dispensed with,
+the neck strap being stitched to the ring, thus doing away with the
+buckles. In the finer grades the traces and bodies are neatly creased.
+The common qualities are in some instances made up without creasing,
+while in others the imitation stitch wheel is used for the purpose of
+ornamenting. The latest freak is to mark off in the same manner as
+though the layers were full length, and to lay up the ornaments in
+imitation of layers. The plain strap is, however, the most popular,
+looks the neatest, and is more easily kept clean. [Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A section of the breeching is shown by II, together with the breeching
+tug and buckle chape. The layer, A, is twelve inches long when made up.
+The end at the breeching ring is skived off so that the ring lap will
+be smooth and true. The tugs or braces, C, are most commonly rounded,
+but plain flat straps are also used; these are doubled and stitched, as
+they would neither be sufficiently strong nor keep their shape if of
+single thickness; the ring for securing the back tug is placed about
+eight inches from the breeching ring. The buckle chape, D, is provided
+with a loop over as well as below the buckle, though in cheap grades
+this may be omitted.
+
+A half section of the neck strap is shown by III. This is cut of plain
+leather, the end is cut straight a distance of about six inches, above
+which there is a waved section five inches long, the remaining portion
+being straight, but a little wider at the center than at the top of the
+wave. There is no stitching to be done on this strap, but a crease is
+run around it near the edge.
+
+A section of the outside belly band, or shaft girth, is shown by IV.
+The billet, A, is stitched to the body with the flesh side out, the
+buckle being laid under between the billet and the body, B, so that
+when the former is wrapped around the shaft, the grain side will be
+out. One end of the short belly band is shown by V. The buckle chape
+is stitched on far enough below end to allow the latter to act as a
+safe. The safety-strap, a most important feature of a harness of this
+kind, is shown by VI. It is in fact an extra back-band, cut in one
+piece and placed over the saddle, with the ends buckled into the shaft
+tug buckles or into extra shaft-tugs, the former, however, being the
+most convenient form of attachment. The holes, A, are cut sufficiently
+large to allow the rein terrets to pass through them. In some cases the
+safety-strap is made up of a single thickness of leather throughout,
+but in others a lining about twelve inches long is stitched on to
+strengthen the strap at the terret holes.
+
+The whiffletree ends of the traces are lined for about one foot, or
+three or four inches more than the space occupied by the dart-holes.
+This is generally done by turning back the extra stock, the trace being
+cut the full length of the side. Three dart holes are cut in, about
+two inches apart, and the lined section, as well as the edges of the
+dart-holes, are stitched.
+
+The bridle used is generally a half-inch flat strap with small square
+winkers and a full or half Kemble Jackson check. All the straps on the
+harness require to be neatly rounded on the edges, and blacked and
+finished on the flesh sides.
+
+This harness is represented by Plate 1, engraved from a photograph of
+the celebrated trotting-mare Goldsmith Maid. The lengths and widths for
+cutting are given in table No. 1.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.
+
+
+In making up team-harness there is as good an opportunity for a workman
+to display genius in designing and skill in execution as there is in
+making the most elaborate coach or fine, light carriage harness. The
+difference, however, being that in the one skill in decorating as well
+as in finishing are the primary points to be considered, while in the
+other adaptability, strength, and fit are first to be secured, after
+which attention may be turned to finishing and trimming. The idea is
+by far too prevalent that it requires but little skill to make a farm
+harness, and unskilled, cheap workmen are employed who could not make
+up carriage harness of any kind. A good, careful mechanic will not only
+make the team harness better than the careless one, but he will, with
+no more expense, give it a much finer finish, thus producing a more
+salable and durable article.
+
+[Illustration: TEAM HARNESS.]
+
+In selecting stock, be governed by the directions laid down in Chapter
+I. Having chosen a side suitable for the weight of harness to be made,
+proceed to cut out the various straps by first straightening the back,
+and measuring off a strip from 18 to 20 inches wide; draw a line
+with a straight edge, and cut the side in two pieces; the back will
+contain the heaviest and firmest part of the leather, the belly and
+flanks that which is softer and more uneven. Before cutting out the
+straps examine the grain as well as the flesh side carefully, to see
+that there are no cuts or imperfect spots; too much care can not be
+taken in this respect, as a blemish, no matter how slight, will show
+after the leather is wet up and while being worked. If the harness
+to be cut is a heavy one select a large spread side which will weigh
+from twenty to twenty-two pounds, cut the traces and all other straps
+which receive the strain, from the back, the folds, chapes, etc., from
+the belly part. The traces should be cut 76 inches long and 1¾ inches
+wide; if the leather is even and of suitable thickness, filling will
+not be necessary. The breast and pole straps should be cut next after
+the traces, the former 66 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, the latter
+54 inches long and 1¾ inches wide. After the buckle is sewed on, slip
+on a ring for the collar strap. Cut the collar strap 34 inches long
+and 1 inch wide. Use wrought-iron cockeyes for the traces, and in
+addition to the stitching secure each buckle and ring chape with copper
+rivets; these relieve the stitching from much of the strain that would
+otherwise be put upon it. Cut the hame tugs from heavy, even leather of
+equal strength with that used in the traces; they should be 18 inches
+long after being fitted up, and of the same width as the trace; the
+laps should not be less than 3 inches long. Use firm leather for the
+loops, channel on the back to allow the stitches to sink below the
+surface, and trim the edges a slight bevel. Cut the bottom hame strap
+of good, firm leather, 26 inches long and 1 inch wide; the top strap,
+28 inches long and 1 inch wide, of strong but more pliable stock, as it
+has to adjust itself to the shape of the top of the collar pad.
+
+Pads for these harness are made up in a variety of ways, the old style
+soft pad being the most desirable. Cut the top of good, even, and
+moderately heavy stock 22 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, narrow the
+ends to 1½ inches, tapering up 3½ inches; cut the ring piece 26 inches
+long by 1¼ inches wide, and round up 5 inches in the center; fit the
+ring piece to the pad top with the round well raised up, and place a
+martingale ring under the round for a tie strap ring; then stitch a
+ring on each end of the top. For the nut pieces cut straps 18 inches
+long and 1¾ inches wide, of heavy, firm stock. At the ends of the round
+ring piece punch a hole for the pad screw; 3½ inches from that point
+punch another for the back-strap loop. To make a showy pad, use a
+patent leather housing.
+
+The breeching folds should be cut from the smoothest part of the
+flank, and shaved down to an even thickness. If the harness maker will
+treat the folds as directed in regard to rein leather, he can produce
+a broken grain which will look much better than the plain leather,
+and will not so readily show checks from use. Cut the fold forty-four
+inches long and five inches wide. In all cases cut folds wider than
+the actual measurements, as the leather will narrow down in places
+while being worked; they can be cut to the required width, when ready
+for fitting up. Cut canvas of the requisite width and fill in the
+folds; coat the leather on the flesh side with tallow, and also apply
+warm tallow to the fillings. This will secure a durable job. Cut the
+back strap five feet long and one and a quarter inches wide; split it
+fifty two inches, leaving a short part uncut to wrap around the ring.
+If the leather is not heavy, use a wear leather where the back strap
+is attached to the hame rings. Stitch the hip straps to the rump rings
+before fitting up the bucklepiece. If a pad-safe is used under the
+rump ring, cut it half an inch wider than the rump strap, stitch it
+on with the edges even, and leave the swell end open, to permit its
+being stuffed with hair. For lead-ups for the breeching, use a six and
+one half inch chape of sufficient width for the buckle; cut the layer
+eleven inches long and seven eighths of an inch wide, with a hole under
+the buckle for the hip strap points to pass through. Use one and three
+quarter rings for the breeching and one inch ring for the center lead
+up.
+
+Cut the side straps from the center of the side, as it is necessary
+that they be of even thickness. These should be six feet long and one
+inch wide, leaving six inches for the turnback; fit up with two loops,
+and use a snap and a slide loop to hold the latter to its place.
+
+Make the belly bands of heavy folds, five and one half inches wide and
+eighteen inches long; lap the edges in the center, contracting the ends
+to the width of the buckle chapes; stitch through the center with one
+row.
+
+The bridles, though plain, are a very important part of a harness of
+this kind, and the workman who slights them makes a great mistake.
+They need to be larger than other kinds, as the horses they are used
+upon are heavier. The fronts should be sufficiently long to allow the
+crown pieces to lay one inch back of the root of the horses’ ears. A
+short front will draw the crown pieces forward and spoil the set of the
+bridle. Fifteen to sixteen inches should be the length used. The length
+of the crown is another important consideration; under no circumstances
+should it be less than twelve inches between the billet splits, the
+whole length being twenty-four inches. The cheeks should be seven
+eighths of an inch and throat latch three quarters of an inch wide. Cut
+the former thirty inches long; set the buckle above the winker. The
+winker braces should be cut fifteen inches long, rounded nine inches;
+cut the face piece twenty-one inches long, and split it ten and one
+half inches. All straps on the bridle other than the face and winker
+should be flat. Cut the inside checks sixty-one inches and outside
+checks twenty-six inches long, by three quarters of an inch wide; make
+up the outside with a ring for take-up. Use a plain leather winker, six
+by four and one half inches, with round corners and an oval end. These
+wear better and are less liable to be damaged than the square winkers.
+
+Cut the lines from the best part of a side weighing about sixteen
+pounds; see that there are no cuts on the grain or flesh side. Make
+them up flat, about twenty-four feet long and one inch wide. The inside
+or cross lines must be six feet six inches long; billets, twelve inches
+long; finish off the ends with a billet in such a manner that a snap
+can be attached if desired.
+
+The mountings, though of the plainest kind, must be strong, and in
+neglecting to procure those suited to the strain to be borne, harness
+makers often entail pecuniary loss upon themselves and injure their
+reputation. A weak buckle, ring, or hame, operates just as injuriously
+to the harness maker as though the leather used was inferior in quality
+and the workmanship poor. The trace buckles are subjected to a severe
+test, and unless they are strong and perfect they will not sustain the
+heavy strain put upon them. There are a variety of patent trace buckles
+in the market, and, owing to strong competition, prices have been very
+much reduced, so that manufacturers have been tempted to make them much
+lighter than they should be. It is necessary, therefore, to examine
+them closely, and to buy the strongest and those most easily adjusted.
+The hames, which are of wood, should be strong and of good shape,
+provided with extra rings for split back strap and loose loops at the
+bottom. The small buckles should be strong and of a good pattern—that
+is, so shaped that the strap is not bent too much in passing through,
+and the edges are not borne too heavily upon. The common wire horseshoe
+buckle, which is used more than any other, is the poorest article in
+the market. The “Sensible” is a good buckle, and there are others which
+answer quite as well, a full description of which is given in the
+chapter on harness mountings. But of all the buckles made, there is
+none better than the large barrel roller-buckle for a draft harness:
+this possesses great strength, is easily loosened, and does not cut the
+strap in the least.
+
+The stitching throughout should be done with white thread, as it is
+much stronger than black; it can be colored easily when blacking up for
+finishing. Traces and tugs should have six or seven stitches; all other
+straps eight or ten to the inch. Coarse stitching is the strongest, and
+accords best with heavy harness.
+
+The above instructions, though ostensibly for a team harness, can be
+followed in a general way in making up all kinds of draft harness. The
+following practical working guide will be understood by the workman.
+
+Before doing any thing toward fitting up, see that every strap is cut
+and laid upon the work-bench. First skive down all the folds, wet them
+and slick them out, cut them to the required lengths, and skive down
+and shape ends; fold them and hammer them down; fill them with canvas,
+felt, or leather, and sew them up; then shape up the chapes, skive down
+the ends, punch the buckle-holes, and black and crease the edges; tack
+on the chapes and layers, and as soon as the leather is dry they can be
+stitched.
+
+Before stitching the folds, wet all the stock, allow it to dry a
+little, then slick it out, point up the straps, take off the edges
+where it is necessary, and crease while damp. If the edges are rubbed
+down at the same time, they will finish better when dry; but the
+blacking must not be applied until after the leather is dry. If folded
+traces are used, mark a line in the center on the flesh side, and with
+a gouge take out about one half the thickness of the stock. This will
+prevent the leather cracking when being bent over. If doubled and
+stitched traces are used, paste up, tack, and crease them, and lay them
+one side to dry. Fit up the breeching tugs, turn four inches; use loops
+one eighth inch narrower than the tugs. Crease and stitch the winkers,
+put some paste on the plates, and shove them in; rub down with a round
+end slicker, and tack them on a board to dry. Fit up the winker brace,
+wet it thoroughly, and bend it like the letter B; tack it down, and
+allow it to dry before being stitched in. Make all the laps on the
+bridle two inches long; lap billets, three inches.
+
+After all the straps are dry and stitched, trim the edges, using a
+spokeshave instead of glass to true them; black them, and then apply a
+little tallow and rub with a rag. Clean up the loops, and the harness
+will be ready to receive the final finish.
+
+
+HEAVY ORNAMENTAL TRUCK HARNESS.
+
+Among the many devices resorted to for the purpose of advertising a
+special business is the use of display teams, the harness for which is
+made in the most expensive manner; and it is no uncommon occurrence for
+a four-horse set to cost $2000, or a single set to cost $1200. As all
+these harness are made up in special styles, according to the taste of
+the party ordering them, a general description is all that is necessary.
+
+The bridles are made up full coach style, the winkers square, with
+slightly-rounded corners; swivel gag runners are used, and the
+ornaments are alike on both sides; the cheeks, throat latches, and
+reins are cut three quarters of an inch wide; the winker braces are
+generally rounded; the face pieces are made with ornamental pendants,
+and are lined and stitched throughout. The entire bridle is fitted up
+with as much care as though designed for a coach harness. The metallic
+ornaments are of an appropriate design, to illustrate the business of
+the owner.
+
+The wheel harness have no pads; the crupper or back straps extending
+forward to the top hand straps; the crupper bodies are made with wide
+scroll safes, padded; the layers, which extend the entire length of the
+safes, are cut to a suitable ornamental pattern, made up martingale
+fashion, lined and stitched with four rows, fourteen to sixteen to the
+inch.
+
+[Illustration: HEAVY DRAFT HARNESS.]
+
+The hip straps for each breeching are cut in one piece, having a swell
+two and a half inches wide, the split ends being one inch wide; between
+the ends there are ornamental pendants, which are cut out of the same
+strap, fitted up quite full, and stitched with four rows, the center of
+the frog being provided with a metallic ornament; the hip straps are
+secured to the crupper body by metallic screws.
+
+The breeching bodies are of solid leather, two and three quarter inches
+wide; the layer straight and stitched with four rows; the layers and
+hip straps are stitched fourteen to the inch; the tugs have full safes,
+with loops before and after the buckles; on each tug is an ivory ring
+in place of the ordinary breeching rings: they are put up the same as
+collar buckles, having loops for the tugs and trace bearer frogs, the
+latter being of some neat, appropriate pattern.
+
+The breeching straps act as pole straps as well, as they extend from
+the breeching to the neck yoke, and are provided with heavy straps
+at the pole ends, and attached to the breeching martingale fashion.
+Bearing straps are attached to the forward ends, and are secured to the
+harness by swivel snap hooks.
+
+The traces and safes are cut in one piece, the safe end being four
+and one half, the other portion two inches wide, and attached to the
+harness by a heavy loop and three plated-head rivets; they have three
+straight rows of stitches, ten to the inch.
+
+The lead harness, bridles, traces, and collars are made up the same
+as those for the pole team, except that they are lighter; they have,
+however, pads, but no breeching. The former are of plain leather, cut
+in one piece, with swelled sides doubled throughout and made very firm,
+the bearing part lined and padded, and the tops stitched in the same
+manner as the tops of coach pads. The trace bearers are made heavy and
+strong, and in addition to being stitched to the pad by four rows they
+are each fastened by two pad-screws, to which are fastened ivory rings;
+rings are also attached to the top in the center of each pad through
+which the turnback passes to the hame straps. The cruppers are made up
+in the same manner as those of the pole harness, excepting that they
+are provided with billets for the docks; the latter are extra large.
+
+The loin straps are made up in the usual coach style, with swell ends
+and hip ornaments and trace bearers the same as those on the pole
+harness.
+
+The mountings are generally silver-plated, all the buckles being the
+“sunk bar.” The round reins are of russet, and the hand parts of heavy
+buffed leather. The collars are heavy, having piped throats, lined with
+thin harness leather.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+MAKING GIG SADDLES.
+
+
+Formerly every harness maker made up his own gig saddles, and any
+general information on that line of manufacture was of great value,
+but of late years a large percentage made are by parties who carry
+on the business of saddle making exclusively, or in connection with
+winkers, fronts, etc., and but few harness makers can afford to make
+up the lower grades of saddles. There are those, however, who will
+not purchase ready-made saddles, and they would not think the manual
+complete without some instruction upon this very important branch of
+the harness business. To such the following plain details may prove of
+great value. The tree selected is the well known Tompkins, it being
+used more generally than any other.
+
+The covering of the seat is the first part to be performed. To do
+this and make a perfect job, fit up the tree; for no matter how well
+it may have been made, there may be rough spots on the iron, and the
+wood in the cantle may need to be reduced in thickness. After having
+thoroughly cleaned the tree, unscrew the seat and remove it from the
+frame; varnish it with shellac varnish to prevent its rusting, or,
+better still, draw on a piece of sheepskin. When it is dry, proceed to
+prepare and draw on the seat leather, as follows: Cut a piece of patent
+collar leather, of the size required for the seat to be covered, dampen
+it with warm water, but do not wet the varnish and avoid using too much
+water; stretch it to conform somewhat to the desired shape, put a tack
+on each side of the cantle, and clip the edges to admit of its being
+drawn down. Pull each way and cut off the surplus leather, then sew
+the parts underneath the seat with a cross stitch, after which pull
+up the cantle part and tack it all around to the wood. Cut a piece of
+leather of about the size and substance of the middle leather (this is
+to be removed when the jockeys are put on,) place it in position, and
+screw the seat to the frame in order to secure the seat leather firmly
+in its place; use a washer temporarily until the seat is screwed on to
+remain; then file off the projecting portion of the screw. When the
+seat leather becomes dry, put on the back pieces, draw the tacks from
+the cantle, cut off some of the surplus leather, dampen the part over
+the cantle edge, and with a pair of plyers set up the leather drawn
+over the cantle, clipping it where needed. Cut a piece of patent collar
+leather for the back piece of the cantle, of the same shape as the
+seat leather; fit it nicely, and punch holes for the crupper loop, and
+cut apart from the hole to the bottom; secure it in position by a few
+tacks, and prepare it for the binding. To do this, use a single thread
+carefully in such a manner that the stitches will not show through the
+binding, paste the two upper edges together, and hammer to make them
+firm and smooth. When dry, cut off the surplus leather, leaving just
+enough to form a binding-edge, and with a very sharp edge tool trim the
+back part, and it will be ready for the binding. To bind, cut a strip
+of enameled leather, about seven eighths or one inch wide (cutting
+parallel with the grain to prevent the varnish from cracking) and of
+the proper length, which can be ascertained by stretching it over the
+cantle edge; skin one side to a thin edge, paste, and with a slicker
+turn down the edge one quarter of an inch, rub it down and crease it
+for stitching; then draw it over the cantle, tack one end properly and
+carefully adjust it in its place until the circle is completed and the
+other end secured in the same way. Regulate it with a slicker (which
+should be about one inch wide to work well), after which allow it to
+dry, and stitch as neatly as possible; when stitched, slick, regulate,
+and trim off the binding on the back part, black the trimmed edge, and
+it will be ready for the jockeys.
+
+To prepare the frame for the seat and jockeys, trim off the rough edges
+from the middle leather, cut two pieces of hard stock, about six inches
+long and of the same width as the depressions in the frame, skive down
+one end of each piece, and tack one in each of the depressions, with
+the skived ends toward the center; holes must be punched in them for
+the terret nuts, which should be secured with annealed or clout nails
+passed through the leather and clinched.
+
+To make the jockeys, take a pattern of the required size, made of
+heavy leather or sheet iron, scribe and cut the jockeys, if for a
+covered seat, in two pieces; if for a japanned seat, in one piece; for
+a covered seat, skive the parts that meet on the center of the tree,
+dampen with water, and bend them to fit nicely over the seat. After
+stitching the jockeys, take off the edge with an edge tool, black, and
+rub smooth, and polish with a little ballblack. When they are ready,
+tack them to the middle leather on the frame in their proper place,
+screw on the seat, file off the screw if too long, wet the front and
+back edges of the seat leather, carefully draw it down, tack the front
+and rear, then trim off all surplus leather, and it is ready for the
+flaps.
+
+The crupper loop should be covered before the seat and frame are put
+together. Cover it with plain or enameled leather, in the same manner
+as in covering a buckle or ring, and, when dry, stitch firm, trim off
+the edges, black, and rub smooth. To cut the flaps, patterns should be
+provided the same as for the jockeys; lay them on the leather, scribe
+around them with a round awl, and cut them out, true and smooth, with
+a sharp round knife; grease the under side with hard tallow, but do
+not allow it to touch the cut edges; immerse them in water for a few
+minutes, then lay them aside until the water has softened the leather
+enough for it to receive the crease-mark; a little grease applied to
+the glazed side will prevent the creaser scratching. After creasing,
+allow them to dry, then bevel and black the edges.
+
+To flap off, cut the ends of the flaps to the requisite shape, so as
+to allow a portion to settle down in the depressions of the tree on
+the top of the stiffeners, leaving room for the back-bands; fit the
+parts nicely, butting them against the crupper, so that the jockeys
+will hit the guide marks on the flaps; place them so that the tree is
+in the center, and nail through the holes in the frames, clinching the
+nails on a flat iron. The back-bands being in their place on the flaps,
+adjust them on the tree, punch holes in them for the terret shanks,
+tack them fast, and secure the nuts with clout nails. After putting in
+the forepiece, sew down the jockeys. If the flaps are lengthened in
+front, the forepiece can be dispensed with when making cheap saddles.
+
+To make the leather loops, cut two pieces of thin harness leather,
+three and a half inches long and one and a quarter inches wide; also
+two other pieces of good leather, about as heavy as bridle leather, one
+inch wide by three and a quarter inches long; paste these on the thin,
+wide pieces, then cut four strips, a little more than one eighth of an
+inch wide, from the heaviest leather (as it is easier to paste before
+cutting); paste them three sixteenths of an inch from the outer edges,
+pat them down with a hammer, and allow the paste to dry; when dry,
+skive the ends, and they will be ready for the covering leather. Next
+cut a piece of good enameled leather of sufficient width to cover the
+body piece, shave down a little, slick out, cut in two pieces, paste
+them, and put them around the body piece; while damp, bind them over a
+piece of wood, three eighths of an inch thick on one edge, and, after
+adjusting them to suit the eye, tack them to dry; when dry, stitch them
+twenty to twenty-two stitches to the inch, and they will be ready to be
+put in the flaps.
+
+To lay up the points for stitching, rough out the upper pieces eleven
+and a half inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, if for a
+three-inch saddle or under, of good but not heavy leather; cut the
+linings one and a half inches shorter and of lighter material; wet the
+leather as directed on page 54, and when partially dry it will work
+easily. If the upper pieces are not of uniform thickness, place the
+heaviest ends next to the flaps; slick them smooth, lay on the pattern,
+mark it, and cut out the ornamental section that is stitched on the
+flap; skive down the uppers on the flesh side where they lay on the
+flaps, leaving the edge the heaviest just at the end of the latter, as
+they are liable to break at this point if not well protected. Round
+the lower ends and skive them down a little on each edge; for a good
+job, make the two parts a little oval by bending them over the edge of
+a board, or by rubbing them down in a groove, crease the edge, and
+afterwards crease for the stitching. Skive the linings on the edges,
+paste them and the tops together, smooth with a rubbing-rag, and
+let them dry, then stitch from ten to sixteen stitches to the inch,
+according to quality. When stitched, dampen the leather a little,
+slick down the under side, and crease the edges again; trim them to
+the desired shape, black them, and rub smooth with a rag containing a
+little tallow, and with a stiff brush clean off the stitches. They will
+then be ready to attach to the flaps.
+
+To make the back-bands, rough them out to the required length and
+width, using the best quality of leather (the upper piece should be of
+good substance, but the lining may be of lighter stock); dampen them
+in the same manner as directed for the points, lay the upper pieces
+together, and mark off twelve inches for the points and one inch for
+rounding, if the parts above the points are to be ornamental; if not,
+round four and a half inches, leaving the remaining portion flat, to
+go under the jockeys and be secured by the terrets. The ornament above
+the loop should be made to correspond with the other ornamental work
+on the harness. Skive the edges of the under pieces, and cut the tops
+to the desired width, leaving them a little wider at the loops; sew
+the rounds where the loops are to go very strongly, round up smoothly,
+and paste the top and linings together in good order above and below
+the loop rounds (some prefer to paste up before sewing the rounds).
+Crease up for straight or ornamental stitching, whichever best suits
+the harness, and settle the mark for the stitches with a tickler. Where
+there is not enough substance to make a firm job, a middle piece can be
+used to advantage. Finish in the same manner as with the points.
+
+To make the pad, cut the lining to the required shape, using the best
+English serge, and the body piece of sheepskin or enamelled duck. If
+the former is used, it may be necessary to cut this piece a little
+smaller than when duck is employed, as it does not work up so much in
+sewing, and it is not necessary to take quite so deep a hold. Sew them
+together in the center with a few stitches on each side, to keep them
+in place, and scribe guide marks crosswise on the sheepskin or duck,
+to serve as guides for closing up the long cut after stuffing. Cut the
+facings of patent leather about one inch wide for all saddles under
+three inches, increasing the width for larger sizes. Be governed by the
+dimensions of the body piece in the length of the facings and fillings;
+the latter are preferably made of leather, but reeds are also used. In
+preparing the fillings, reduce them in the center at the hook, also at
+the ends, to make a good finish; baste the facings on the fillings with
+long stitches, having them a little damp. Sew them all together—the
+facings forming a welt, beginning at the center—with a strong thread,
+about four stitches to the inch; finish the ends neatly.
+
+After sewing, cut the body piece lengthwise, turn the pad, and
+sew together with a long loop-stitch; the guide marks will assist
+materially in so joining that the original position is maintained;
+regulate the facings while damp. If there be sufficient time, tack
+the pad out on a board in the shape to suit the flaps, and smooth the
+facings with a half round creaser, the same as for any rounded piece,
+and let it remain until thoroughly dry before stuffing. In making
+common saddles this may be omitted, the whole being worked dry; but
+with a good saddle these points must be observed. Stuff from the center
+with well-beaten hair, a little at a time, working it evenly into
+its place, and keeping it compact and smooth with a round awl; after
+thus regulating it, quilt the pad up to the bearings, being careful
+to have each side correspond. Next sew the lining to the body piece,
+keeping the fullness of the lining drawn toward the lower ends of the
+pad; stuff the bearings, and work with a round awl until they are
+sufficiently full, then with a proper tool pound the pad where it is
+quilted and stuffed, and it is ready for the saddle.
+
+Before flapping, make the holes in the flaps for the loops, and
+prepare each of the latter for stitching. After the flapping is done,
+and before sewing down the jockeys, draw the loops in their places
+over the rounds of the back-bands and down through the holes made for
+them in the flaps, pulling them tightly to their places, and tacking
+temporarily with small tacks; sew them to correspond with the stitching
+on the jockeys, punch holes through the top ends of the back-bands
+for the terrets, and nail them securely. Tacking is not absolutely
+necessary, but it serves to make a firmer job. After so doing, put in
+the terrets and hook, using annealed nails to secure the nuts, clinch
+them thoroughly, and sew down the jockeys. Trim up, regulate, and put
+in the pad, lace it thoroughly, clean off, and the saddle is finished.
+
+Where a change is necessary in the shape of the flap, or larger or
+smaller patterns are desired, strike a line lengthwise through the
+center of the pattern, then take a pair of dividers and lay out the
+shape or size preferred, working from the center-line; when the shape
+is secured, cut one side, fold the pattern together, and cut the other.
+In this way a true pattern is obtained, while no changes are made in
+the part that fits the tree. Alter the patterns for the body and lining
+to correspond.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.
+
+
+The subdivision of labor and the improvements made during the past ten
+or fifteen years have, by making specialties of certain parts, such
+as pads, gig saddles, etc., taken some of the harness maker’s work
+out of his hands, and enabled him to purchase ready-made articles at
+reduced prices, yet there are times when these must be made under the
+supervision of the manufacturer in order that they may correspond with
+all other portions of the harness.
+
+Patent pads, which constitute the greater portion of those made up
+for the regular trade, are constructed in various ways, and as their
+manufacture is confined to the patentees, no advantage would accrue to
+the harness maker by a detailed description of the manner of putting
+them together. Instruction, therefore, in this respect will be confined
+to a few of the hand made pads which best represent their respective
+classes; more than this it would be useless to do, as the variety of
+style and processes of manufacture are so varied.
+
+
+COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS.
+
+By coach and carriage pads is meant all, whether light or heavy, that
+are designed for carriage harness in contradistinction to those used
+on team or draught harness. The process of manufacture is the same in
+all cases, whether the pad be light or heavy. Directions for making
+up will be confined to the pad, independent of the sides. The plates,
+which should be of wrought-iron, must be trued up, and the ends filed
+off thin and smooth. Cut out the top, punch the holes for the hook,
+terrets, and pad screws, blind stitch the ornamental portion, and
+stitch the pad plate lining to the top; trim off the edges to a sharp
+under bevel, then split the lining lengthwise, insert the plate, and
+whip stitch together with strong threads. Cut the socket piece of
+harness leather one half inch larger all around than the top; the
+point, or pole, as it is sometimes called, should extend from 1¼ to 1⅜
+inches below the end of the plate; in cutting allow at least ⅜ of an
+inch for fulness between the terret holes, and ⅛ of an inch between
+the terret and pad screw holes. Skive off the edges on the flesh side
+quite thin, and back ½ inch from the outer edge, punch holes for terret
+nuts, insert them, and rivet them in place; in like manner insert the
+nuts for the pad screws, and screw them in position by means of a small
+cap piece stitched on. Screw in the pad hook, place the nut piece in
+position, and pound down enough on the pad screw nut to obtain the
+exact size, then remove the nut piece, and cut away for the pad hook
+nut; then place the nut piece in position, screw in the terrets, insert
+a short piece of harness leather the same width and thickness as the
+pad side, and set in the pad screw (be careful to set the mock side
+in proper position); then, with a hammer, set up the bolt piece to
+the plate, work in all the fulness, and turn up the edges square and
+smooth, and set the pad aside to dry. After the leather is dry, cut
+the pad filling out of heavy felt, paste it on, and, when dry, trim to
+the required shape. Cut the bottom from light collar leather, moisten
+it on the flesh side, work it up smooth, and paste to the edges of the
+nut piece; when dry, trim off flush with the top, skive the edges quite
+thin, and paste on the binding, being careful to work it up smooth and
+even; when dry, stitch across the center, leaving the gullet piece
+about 1½ inches wide, then place the pad upon a block, and carefully
+stitch the binding; trim the edge, and black if necessary. Pads put up
+in this way are firm, and much easier to make than those in which hair
+is used for stuffing.
+
+The following directions apply to the manufacture of pads stuffed with
+hair. The routine for making is also somewhat different: Prepare the
+top and lining, and insert the plate as before directed, fit the hook
+and crupper loop in their proper places, bend the latter up so that
+it meets the edge of the top, fasten the screw or nut piece with a
+pad screw to the top, and force it up in the center so as to obtain
+the requisite fulness, mark the holes for the screws and terrets, and
+also the outlines for the plate; make the pole 1¼ inches long, remove
+the nut piece, and punch the burrow holes by the lower edges of the
+marks; this will secure the necessary fulness in the center; skive
+off the edges of the nut piece, secure the burrs to it, and fit it
+up to the top with a hammer, being careful to turn the edges up true
+and smooth, and set it aside to dry; when partially dry, repeat the
+process so as to be sure that the edge is properly shaped; do not
+remove the top until the nut piece is perfectly dry. Cut the bottom
+piece out of collar leather; to get the proper size, make a pattern of
+sheepskin. This is done by dampening it very lightly, turning up the
+end around the gullet, tack it to the top, fit the other end around the
+pole, and tack it in like manner, then turn up the edge all around,
+and mark a line level with the top. This will give the exact shape
+without fulness. Remove this piece, and draw a line for the swell, the
+greatest fulness being opposite the center of the terret holes; taper
+gradually to the center and ends, then cut the bottom piece to the new
+line by the pattern upon the leather for the bottom piece, and cut it
+out. Cut a small piece out of the center in order to obtain fulness
+enough for the edges, whip together smoothly, turn the edges in the
+center and fasten with a few stitches, draw the ends down and fasten
+the points with tacks, paste between the burrs and the lining on the
+edge, pop stitch together, leaving the ends open. Stitch across the
+center, leaving a space 1½ inches, paste the bottom to the edges of the
+nut piece, and, when dry, trim off to the required shape; paste the
+binding, and, when dry, stitch carefully; trim the binding close to
+the stitching, holding the knife so as to cut under in order to avoid
+showing a ragged edge. In stuffing, first work out the edge, then fill
+up the center, tapering off gradually to the point; close the ends and
+tuft the point, and fit up to the top for the last time.
+
+Fitting up the nut piece is the most important part of the work, and
+care must be taken to secure the requisite fulness to make a good job;
+also, to have the leather properly tempered so that it will retain the
+shape given it.
+
+
+SOFT PAD.
+
+A very large majority of the plainer lines of farm and team harness are
+made up with what is known as soft pads—that is, those without plates.
+The great number of styles makes it impossible, in a work of this kind,
+to give any more than a general notice, and as an illustration the one
+shown on page 154 is selected. It is one of the best, and embraces the
+general principles by which all soft pads are made. The tops and sides
+are cut of one piece of heavy harness leather, forty-four inches long;
+and, if designed for a one and three quarter trace harness, it is cut
+one and a quarter inches wide in the center, two and a quarter inches
+at the pad bilge, two inches at the side bilge, one and a quarter
+inches at the narrowest point between the top and side bilges, and
+seven eighths of an inch at the bottom. Treat the leather the same as
+in making harness, and crease the edges with a double creaser.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The pad bottom is cut of good fold leather. In making the pad, cut
+a heavy piece of felt, nine inches long, for each side, of the same
+shape as the pad top, but about one quarter of an inch narrower. Cut
+extra pieces about five inches long to make the requisite fulness for
+the bilge of the pad; cover the felt with the pad bottom, and lace the
+edges of the latter together on the top (the pad bottom should be wet
+while being worked, so that it can be fitted up to a good shape); then
+secure it to the top by a single line of stitches, or by binding with
+fancy colored leather, allowing the binding to terminate at the bottom
+of the pad, or to extend across the top in the form of a fold as shown
+by X, part A.
+
+The pad trace bearer is shown by B; its full length is nineteen inches,
+width at top three quarters of an inch, and at the bilge one and a
+quarter inches; the upper end is attached to the pad top by a plated
+rivet, and stitched from four and a half to five inches from the end.
+The points are cut twelve inches wide and laid up on the pad side three
+inches, the lower ends of the trace bearers rest on the points and are
+stitched to them, one half inch bevelled plugs being placed between the
+two; the whole is further strengthened by copper rivets. A ring for
+the back strap is attached to the center of the pad by a chape stitched
+and riveted on.
+
+This pad is sometimes made up with a short plate, extending down far
+enough to receive the pad trace bearer, a terret being used instead of
+the rivet; when this is done, a loop check takes the place of the ring.
+The parts represented are: A, pad top section; B, pad side section; C,
+pad trace bearer; D, one line of the pad bottom; E, pad trace bearer in
+position.
+
+
+PLAIN HARD PAD.
+
+This, while being much firmer and stronger than the soft pad, is but
+little more difficult to make. It is designed for heavy wagon harness
+where terrets and hooks are to be used. A very good idea of its
+construction and appearance may be gathered from the illustration on
+page 157, which represents the various pieces drawn to one third their
+actual size.
+
+The top, which is shown by section 1, is cut out of heavy patent or
+harness leather; the openings show the positions of the pad screw and
+terret: this may be blind stitched if desired, but for general use it
+is quite as salable if left plain. If harness leather is used, trim the
+edges to a light oval and crease them with a fine creaser.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The bottom piece or lining is shown by section 2; this is cut of light
+harness or fold leather. The socket piece, the lower end of which is
+shown below the pad top 1, is cut to the same shape as the top, a point
+a little below the center of the hole for the pad screw, then it takes
+the shape designated by the dotted lines.
+
+The housing is shown by section 3. This is made of patent leather with
+a scolloped border bound around the edge, as shown by A; the square
+hole showing the space cut away to admit the back-band.
+
+The pad plate is shown by section 4. This is of wrought or malleable
+iron with threads cut in the holes for the pad screws and terrets; the
+crupper loop is cast or forged upon the plate.
+
+In making up this pad, cut the socket piece from patent leather, the
+same size as the plate, and secure it to the latter by means of copper
+rivets at the points designated by X, section 4; then draw over the
+bottom and tack it to the socket piece, the nails clinching as they
+come in contact with the plate; lap the ends of the bottom so as to
+obviate the necessity of using a separate gullet piece; then stuff the
+pad and place the housing on the socket piece; tuft the ends of the
+bottom socket and housing as shown by the cross lines on the lower ends
+of 1 and 3; then place the pad top in position, and secure it by the
+terrets and pad screws.
+
+The side pieces are always cut straight and creased or stitched; if
+trace bearers are used, the top ends are secured by the pad screws.
+The housing is not a necessity with this pad, but it makes it more
+ornamental, and is therefore preferred by most buyers.
+
+Another style of pad which may be made up with or without pad plates
+or stuffed pad, is made by cutting a housing piece from heavy patent
+leather to the required shape, and covering it with soft collar
+leather. If no plate is used, the back strap, which is perfectly
+straight and about one and one quarter inches wide, is stitched to
+the pad piece before the latter is covered; a chape is attached to
+the center for the back strap ring, or a loop check hook may be used
+instead; four rivets, with round heads, are used to strengthen the pad
+and to give it an ornamental appearance.
+
+A plain pad, which is used to a considerable extent in New-York upon
+team harness, is made of two strips of harness leather; one, forming
+the pad and sides, is cut two and a quarter inches wide and fifty-six
+inches long, the points one and an eighth inches wide and ten inches
+long; the layer is cut seventy-nine inches long and one and an eighth
+inches wide; this is stitched to the pad twelve inches each side of
+the center; the lower ends are placed even with the bottom ends of
+the points, and stitched to them and three inches up on the sides,
+the fulness thus secured to the layer makes it answer for a pad trace
+bearer; small brass head rivets are placed in the center of the layer
+the whole length between the points at intervals of about three inches.
+The layer may be left loose in the center, forming a loop for the back
+band to pass through, or a billet and ring may be attached instead. A
+thin pad, made of two thicknesses of felt and fold or collar leather,
+can be added if desired.
+
+[Illustration: GEORGIA WAGON HARNESS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.
+
+
+Harness makers have three kinds of leather loops to select from—the
+hand made, patent, and pressed. The first are undoubtedly the best, and
+are used in preference to all others upon fine harness, some leading
+manufacturers using no other kind. Some makers of medium grades also
+use them to a considerable extent; but if well made they are too
+expensive for common work, and when poorly constructed are inferior to
+the other kinds.
+
+Patent loops are made by being pressed up in hot dies, and are sold to
+the trade in every needed size and in a variety of styles. Being nicely
+finished and much cheaper than hand made loops, they have taken their
+place on medium grades, and are also used to a great extent upon common
+harness. Pressed loops are those made up in the workshop, and shaped
+by means of dies and presses after they are stitched upon the straps.
+The making of these and hand creased alone interest the workman, as the
+patent loops are ready for use at the time of purchase.
+
+Hand made loops possess several advantages over other kinds; they
+are more durable, and, owing to the manner of making them, are less
+uniform in style of creasing than those made by dies.
+
+Care in the selection of stock is the first requisite in making
+good loops, and the workman is referred to the description of the
+various qualities and kinds given on page 36. Next in importance is
+the tempering of the stock in water so as to bring it to a condition
+where it can be easily worked and yet retain the full impression of
+the creasing irons, which it will not do if either too wet or dry. The
+general rule is to soak the leather until thoroughly moistened, then
+remove it from the water, and allow it to become surface dry before
+creasing. Some workmen prefer to moisten the leather but a little
+before stitching on, and afterward temper it by the use of water and a
+sponge; if, after being stitched on, the leather is found to be too dry
+to work well, the fault can be remedied by the use of a moist sponge.
+Owing, however, to the marked difference existing in the texture and
+fibre of each separate side of leather, and to the various portions of
+a single side, there can be no fixed rule given as to the preparation
+of it, and the workman must be governed solely by experience. As has
+been stated in another chapter, there are certain signs and indications
+which furnish an exact guide to the workman, but they are of a nature
+which can not be described, and it is his duty to pay strict attention
+to the minor details if he would meet with success in the leading
+features.
+
+In order to secure a perfect-shaped loop, it is absolutely necessary
+to allow sufficient fulness in the leather to permit the corners being
+worked up full and square on the outside. To accomplish this, a fulness
+of about ⅜ of an inch over and above the width of the loop stick
+should be allowed to a 1¼-inch loop of ordinary thickness, increasing
+or diminishing the same as the width or thickness is increased or
+diminished. This extra leather must be worked up and outward to the
+corners, so that when the loop is completed they are full and square,
+otherwise they will be thin and weak at the very point where the
+greatest strength is required.
+
+Hand creased loops are commonly attached by stitching both sides
+before creasing. Another method which is preferred by many workmen, as
+it obviates much of the difficulty arising from the leather becoming
+too dry before it can be creased, is the employment of a clamp in
+connection with the loop stick. When this is used, an iron loop stick
+is substituted for the wooden one. The back clamp iron is made the full
+length of the loop stick, and ⅛ of an inch wider; at either end there
+is an ear, which projects about 1 inch above the back iron, the ends
+of which are bent over so as to cross the back iron at right angles;
+holes are drilled through the ends directly over the center of the back
+iron: these are threaded and provided with a thumb screw. When used,
+the back iron is placed against the back of the strap, and the thumb
+screws tightened against the loop stick, holding the latter and the
+leather firmly together. In securing the loop, one side is stitched in
+its place and the other properly inserted, after which the screws are
+applied and the whole held in position until the loop is creased and
+finished, after which it can be stitched fast.
+
+If the ordinary loop stick is used, both sides must be stitched fast
+before the stick is inserted, care being taken to allow the requisite
+fulness. First work up the sides with a slicker, then rub down the top,
+and continue to work both sides and top until the leather is pressed
+firmly against the loop stick, always working toward the corners to
+keep them full, then trim the ends perfectly true, and run the edge
+creases with a hot creaser, after which trace off the pattern and
+outline it with a fine tickler, then crease up with suitable tools:
+these can be kept hot and clean by laying the ends upon a metallic
+box heated by gas jets or an alcohol lamp, the handles resting upon a
+wire support. The secret of success in creasing loops is to define all
+corners and outlines correctly before the leather becomes too hard to
+receive an impression easily, the working up of the pattern afterwards
+being comparatively an easy matter. After the pattern is well worked
+up, remove the loop stick and insert an iron one which has been heated
+as hot as it can be without danger of burning, then color the leather
+with iron and vinegar black, and work over the entire loop with warm
+creasers and slickers until the leather is perfectly dry. By this
+process the surface will receive a fine polish, and if the color is
+good no further operation is needed. If a better black is required,
+allow the loop to remain unmolested until thoroughly seasoned, and
+apply a slight coat of hatter’s black, and, when dry, polish with a
+silk rag. A loop which has been well worked will not be improved by the
+use of varnish of any kind. If the loop is properly made it will be
+solid and entirely free from grain cracks, the corners full and sharp,
+the ornament well raised and correctly defined. A soft loop is an
+evidence of a lack of skill, or of carelessness, upon the part of the
+workman, for if the leather is in proper condition and worked up as it
+should be, it will become firm and hard.
+
+Pressed loops are the cheapest, and when well made appear nearly as
+well when new as the other styles. There has been a marked improvement
+in the manner of making them within a few years, and it is difficult,
+in some cases, to detect the difference between them and the patent
+loops. The same care is necessary in regard to providing fulness in
+the leather sufficient to produce square corners as is recommended in
+the case of hand made loops. They are needled on, and by the exercise
+of a little ingenuity the awl holes on the side last stitched may be
+so placed as to be almost undiscernable when the loop is fully pressed
+up. The machinery and appliances necessary for pressing up these loops
+consist of a good screw press, a metallic box with open ends, the
+sides being about 3 inches high on the inside, and the width for other
+than pressing cheek loops 3 inches wide in the clear; for cheek loops
+a box fully wide enough to admit the winker is necessary; in one side
+of the box place two thumb screws about 1½ inches from the bottom, one
+within 2 inches of each end; in addition small side plates are needed
+to be placed between the sides of the box and the loop, also plates to
+be placed upon the bottom for raising or lowering the loop according
+to its thickness; iron loop sticks, and the top stamps or dies. In
+pressing, the loop stick is placed in its proper position, the strap
+laid in the box, and the side screws tightened up until the leather is
+pressed firmly against the sides of the loop stick, after which the die
+is placed in position and the screw pressure applied to the top. It is
+necessary to screw the side plates well up or the heavy pressure on the
+top will cause the loop to spread on the top edge. Two minutes under
+the press is all that is necessary to secure a firm loop even with
+cold irons. By the exercise of a little ingenuity in designing dies, a
+variety of patterns may be produced and cheap harness relieved of the
+sameness now so prevalent. With pressed as with other loops, much of
+the success in their production depends upon the leather being properly
+tempered. After the loop is seasoned, color it with vinegar and iron
+black, and when dry rub with a woolen cloth, after which it may be
+finished the same as hand made loops. By the use of a box of this kind,
+together with dies, small loops may be made similar to the patent ones,
+and of patterns to match the large ones.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+STITCHING HARNESS.
+
+
+In stitching harness two objects are to be attained—strength and
+ornamentation. The first is secured by the use of thread of the
+required size to suit the work to be done, making it up properly,
+employing an awl that is neither too large nor too small, and drawing
+the work well together. The second, by laying the stitches in an
+artistic manner so that, when the work is finished, the lines of the
+pattern are well maintained and the stitches of a uniform length and
+laid true.
+
+The first point to be considered is the selection of the linen thread
+or silk, and the proper manner of making up the strand. Thread as now
+sold in the market is designated by numbers; the sizes used by harness
+makers are Nos. 0, 10, 3, 12, and 5, the latter being the finest used;
+Nos. 6 and 19 are of the same size, but of different colors, 5 being
+black, 6 white, and 19 yellow. These sizes should be used in such a
+manner as to secure the greatest strength. The rule adopted is to grade
+the thread according to the number of stitches to be employed. No. 0,
+which is the coarsest, should be made up with four strands, and be
+used where the stitches number eight or under to the inch; No. 10 is
+a little lighter than No. 0, and is used in the lightest work; where
+the stitching is not more than ten nor less than eight to the inch,
+three strands are used. No. 3 is also used where the stitching ranges
+from eight to ten to the inch, it being finer than either 10 or 0; four
+strands are required for all ordinary work; for ten to sixteen to the
+inch No. 12 is used, four strands being required. When the stitching
+is as fine as eighteen to the inch the same number is used, but only
+three strands; for all work finer than eighteen stitches No. 5 is the
+only thread used; this is made up with three or four strands, according
+to the character of the work to be done. These numbers represent the
+ball thread; skein thread, however, varies but little in size with
+corresponding numbers, but, owing to its being smoother, it appears
+finer. For all heavy work the ball thread answers equally as well as
+the skein; but in making up, the thread, while being twisted, should be
+well rubbed with the awl handle in order to remove the irregularities.
+Where the work to be done is fine and first-class in every respect, use
+the skein thread. White thread is preferred, by harness makers who have
+tested its merit, on heavy stitching, owing to its possessing greater
+strength than the colored.
+
+Having selected the requisite number of thread, the next thing is to
+break off the strands, wax and twist them up; unless this is well
+done the work will prove a failure. In running off each strand, it
+should be examined to prevent any hard, irregular spot being twisted
+up in the thread; in most cases the little lumps which are found are
+loose and can be removed without injuring the thread; where this can
+not be done, break it off and start anew. For stitching all articles
+like traces or other long straps, long threads are desirable in order
+to avoid starting with a new thread in the body of the work. Ten to
+eleven feet, however, is as great a length as can be used to advantage,
+and even this is liable to become weakened by the constant wear before
+being used up. In making a thread, untwist and pull apart the strand at
+the end, throw the center over a hook, and untwist and pull apart for
+the first strand; repeat this operation until the required number of
+strands are obtained. Untwisting before breaking the thread is a matter
+of much more importance than is generally supposed. If carefully done,
+the fibres are separated but not broken, and a smooth, regular, tapered
+end can be obtained; but if broken off, the end will be irregular and
+cause annoyance in threading the needles or attaching the bristles.
+
+There is much difference of opinion as to the manner of waxing; some
+claim that no wax should be used until the strands are well twisted
+together, then they should be rubbed until the thread is well filled,
+after which it should be rubbed with a cloth to remove all surplus
+wax. Others claim that the principal part of the waxing should be
+done before twisting, and that the only benefit derived from using wax
+on the surface is to preserve the thread from injury by the friction
+occasioned by drawing it through the holes in the leather. A careful
+examination of the thread after having been used in stitching, would
+seem to give support to the latter method of making up, as it is found,
+upon cutting apart, that the amount of wax left on the surface is so
+small as to preclude the idea of its being any advantage either as to
+strength or resistance to the action of water, while strands which
+had been well waxed before twisting retained all but the surface wax.
+Fine threads may be made up according to the first plan, but all heavy
+threads should be well waxed before twisting.
+
+After the strands are all broken off, rub them well by giving one turn
+around the awl handle and rubbing it back and forth, then apply the
+wax, and twist up moderately firm. A thread may be injured by twisting
+too firmly as well as by leaving it loose. In the first instance it
+will not take the wax well and wears away rapidly; in the second, the
+strands are likely to open and show after the stitch is laid. The
+workman must therefore depend upon his own judgment as to the proper
+amount of twist to be given. The best is the ordinary shoemaker’s black
+wax, which is made of equal parts of pitch and tallow, and is a good
+wax for general use; but this is too hard for winter, when a larger
+percentage of tallow is required, making the proportions one pound
+of tallow to three quarters of a pound of pitch. Various degrees of
+hardness may be obtained by changing the proportions. This, however,
+will not answer for white or light-colored thread. A good wax for this
+purpose can be made of refined pitch and tallow, the proportions to be
+governed by the degree of hardness desired. Ordinary yellow and white
+wax are also used for light thread, but they are not as good as that
+made of pitch.
+
+Stitching, to appear well, must be regular, each stitch being full,
+defined, and of equal length. The use of the prick wheel assists
+materially toward producing the last result, but unless the workman
+handles his awl correctly irregularities will occur. Tastes differ as
+to the best position for the stitches. There was a time when straight
+stitching was ignored by all leading manufacturers on account of its
+resemblance to machine work, but the improvements in the latter soon
+made it possible to imitate any hand stitch, and the straight stitch
+has once more become popular. The custom now practiced by leading
+manufacturers is to lay all heavy stitches ten or less to the inch at
+a moderate angle, using a diamond-shaped awl; to secure uniformity the
+awl is held in a position which brings a face of the angle on a line
+parallel with the top of the jaw of the stitching-horse; to render this
+result certain, a portion of the handle is flattened to correspond
+with the angle on the awl. If the stitching is sixteen or less to the
+inch, the angle is reduced, but the same precaution is taken to secure
+regularity. All stitches where there are more than sixteen to the inch,
+are laid straight.
+
+The manner of drawing up the stitches has much to do with their
+uniformity: drawing harder on one thread than on the other will produce
+irregularity. A common fault with stitchers is to tighten the thread
+with one motion as soon as it becomes short enough for them to do so;
+this is a serious fault, as it is impossible to lay the stitches even.
+No matter what the length of the thread, the tightening up should
+always be a distinct motion. If the stitches are to be flat, the force
+applied to both threads should be equal; but if a full stitch is
+desired on the face side, the thread bearing against the under side
+should be drawn the tightest; care must be taken not to draw upon this
+thread enough to draw out the channeling. Stitchers are apt to draw the
+thread in the awl hand the tightest, and it requires some practice to
+overcome this difficulty.
+
+When performing a piece of work where the stitches are equally exposed
+from both sides, it is necessary to change the position of the thread
+on the side opposite the awl hand, or the work will be irregular, and
+it will be an easy matter to determine which is the right side. To do
+this work properly, enter the needles, and when that on the left side
+is drawn nearly out, bring the loose thread forward, and throw it over
+the needle, and tighten up in the usual manner. If care is taken to
+throw the thread over, the work will appear nearly as well upon the
+reverse as upon the right side.
+
+The points to be observed, therefore, are: to drive the awl through at
+right angles with the face of the leather, holding it so that it will
+always enter the leather in the same position; to draw the threads
+carefully, so that each stitch is set in at a uniform depth, and the
+fulness retained on the outside. When the work is well fitted up, it
+will not require much power to set the stitches correctly. Around
+buckles, when the laps have not been previously worked together, it
+will require more force to draw the straps together; but under no
+circumstance should the stitches be buried into the leather, as this
+has a tendency to weaken rather than strengthen the work.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+MAKING ROUND REINS.
+
+
+The very general use of round reins and their effect upon the
+appearance of the harness render it necessary that the most approved
+manner of making up be thoroughly understood, and entitle this branch
+of harness making to a separate notice. In preparing the following
+instructions, the grade of round russet reins known as No. 4 has been
+selected as the one embracing the various manipulations more thoroughly
+than any other, covering as it does all the essential points.
+
+Good stock is indispensable to success, and care should be taken
+to secure smooth, fine-grained, and well tanned rein leather, the
+different qualities of which are clearly described in the chapter on
+“Russet Leather,” page 33. Cut the leather seven eighths of an inch
+wide, and of the full length of the side; soak it in clean water for a
+few minutes, and remove a thin shaving from the flesh side; then lay it
+out straight upon the board, grain side down, moisten slightly with a
+sponge and clean water, and shave down to the required thickness; slick
+down nicely while the leather is damp, and measure off five inches from
+one end for the billet and stop, and five feet six inches from this
+point for the round, with an additional five and a quarter inches
+for the handpart lap. Measure off on the rein seven eighths or three
+quarters of an inch, or whatever size may be necessary, for the billet;
+lay the rein out on the board with the grain side up, secure it firmly
+with awls, and with a channeling tool, held firmly in the hand, channel
+the five feet six inches which are to be rounded; trim each edge with
+an edge tool, as by so doing considerable work, that would otherwise
+have to be done with the spokeshave, can be saved and a better job
+produced. Cut the width of the billet—which is five inches—on the edge
+of the rein, edge it with a small edge tool, stain and rub the edges
+until a good polish is produced, then with a seven-eighth inch buckle
+punch make the hole for the buckle about three inches from the end, and
+with a round knife trim down nearly to a feather edge; turn the rein
+about, and stamp with a die, or mark off to a suitable pattern—four
+waves running to a point is a good one—stain the edges, and rub them
+well, then with a wide edge tool trim them slanting, so as to leave
+a raise in the center. Both sides being finished as directed, dampen
+the leather with a moist sponge, and with a raising block raise the
+handpart end lightly; if raised too much, rub down with a clean piece
+of paper, then with a double creaser sink the creases well, and prick
+off with a No. 14 prick-wheel, after which rub the edges smooth.
+
+The rein is now ready for the stop, which is made of two pieces of
+clean stock dampened and shaved down to the required thickness, then
+pasted together and allowed to dry; when perfectly dry, cut out with a
+die, or to a pattern, an egg-shaped or other design; stitch the stop,
+trim off the back edge with an edge tool, dampen the edges lightly,
+apply the stain, and rub until a good smooth surface and polish are
+produced. Heat a narrow iron creaser quite warm over a gas or other
+light, crease the edges, and rub them with a rag until they are smooth.
+Trim the ends of the stops down thin.
+
+Next prepare the billet, which is thirteen and one half inches long, by
+dampening it well and rubbing it down solid with a slicker; cut out the
+end of the billet with a half round punch, and with a small edge tool
+take the edge off each side to one half the length, then stain, and rub
+smooth with a cloth. Mark off one and one half inches to go into the
+round of the rein, and five inches more for the stop; crease up the
+billet and punch with a No. 6 round punch, dampen the end that enters
+the rein so that it will work easily, trim down to a feather edge, and
+then pound down to the mark, so that the stitcher can more easily pull
+the round up tight; this being done, tack the billet to the rein and it
+is ready to be stitched.
+
+The billet, as has been stated, is marked off five inches, three inches
+of which are for the half-inch loops before and behind the buckle; this
+part is channeled the width of the box loop, and a space of one half
+inch each way from this loop is stitched with seven or eight stitches,
+drawn tight; these make the rein firmer, and give it a better finish.
+
+After the billet is stitched, the rein is ready for filling up. To do
+this, first see that the filling is thoroughly wet, so that it can be
+shaved down evenly, and, when the rein is closed up, can be pounded
+down to a true and smooth round. In filling up, care should be taken
+not to dampen the rein too much, for if too wet the leather can not be
+trimmed off smoothly with a spokeshave, and when dried out it becomes
+hard and brittle; also, when filling off, the channel, instead of being
+close and smooth, will raise and become uneven. The proper course is
+to dampen it with a sponge, and pound down immediately. To do this,
+take a large awl, run it through one of the holes in the billet, fasten
+the rein to the board, and, with a shoemaker’s hammer, pound one edge
+down to the end of the rein; then turn the rein over, commence at the
+same point as before, and pound the other side down; in this way the
+rein is evenly prepared to receive the filling. In placing the latter
+in position, always put in the longest pieces at the commencement, and
+use the short pieces down at the neck of the rein. At the end, where
+the handpart is sewed in, put in an end piece, or sew the handpart into
+the round; either will do, but the former is the better plan. After the
+rein is closed, if a little dry in places, dampen it slightly with a
+sponge, then trim off with a large-sized edge tool, and also trim off
+the filling close to the rein; then pound down on a board iron made
+for this purpose, having a half round groove in which to place the
+rein. The use of this groove materially lessens the labor and helps
+to secure a good round. Some workmen use a flat stone or board iron
+without a groove, but it is poor policy to do so, as it has a tendency
+to flatten the leather where it bears upon the stone.
+
+The rein is now ready to be rounded up, which is done by pulling it
+through the rounding machine three or four times, after which trim off
+the edges with a sharp spokeshave as round and evenly as possible;
+dampen the rein slightly with a moist sponge, pull it through the
+rounding machine three or four times more, and then with a hand rounder
+rub up and down all over the round, the object being to touch all the
+parts that the machine has failed to reach, thereby making them smooth.
+Then, with a sponge and a solution of oxalic acid, clean off the rein
+and hang it up to dry. When dry, or nearly so, apply a small quantity
+of a stain made of anotta and saffron in the proportion of one pint
+of the former to a half gill of the latter. After dampening the reins,
+block up the loops, trim nicely from the end of the rein to the box
+loop, stain, and rub down smoothly; dampen the round slightly with the
+stain, and rub briskly until a nice, smooth polish appears. In order to
+preserve the color on the rein, dissolve shellac in alcohol, and with a
+clean sponge apply it to every part of the rein; this, in addition to
+preserving the color, produces a good lustre on the leather.
+
+Rein ends can be made up in a variety of styles, but the general
+directions for manufacture are the same. Their use is to prevent the
+Martingale ring coming in contact with the buckle, or bit ring, where
+it will catch fast, and at the same time provide a neat ornament
+for the end of the rein. In cutting the harness maker should aim to
+make them not less than one quarter of an inch wider than the inside
+diameter of the Martingale ring. Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 show four
+patterns, all but fig. 4 being made up as previously directed. This is
+made without buckles, but a small piece of steel is bent at the point
+where the rein joins to the ornament, which is stitched in between the
+straps. This steel hook is sometimes used with other styles of rein
+ends.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.
+
+
+In manufacturing bridles, the harness maker has an excellent
+opportunity to exercise taste in designing and embellishing, for in no
+part of the harness is there so much opportunity given to introduce new
+ideas without interfering with the proper shape of the article; then,
+too, they are the most ornate part of the harness, and there is less
+liability to overdo in decoration. The winkers may be made in a variety
+of styles, stitched plain or in fancy patterns; the cheeks can be
+finished up in different ways, while the crowns, face pieces, fronts,
+gag runners, nose and chin pieces are all susceptible of a variety of
+changes in form or finish. There is no portion of a coach harness more
+difficult to make, and for that reason the bridle maker holds a high
+position in the business.
+
+The general details for making are given in connection with the
+instructions for making harness in a previous chapter. Attaching the
+winkers to the cheeks must be done in the best manner to prevent them
+from “hinging;” always clean off the gum where the patent leather
+enters the cheek pieces, so that the paste may adhere, and skive off to
+secure a smooth job.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+The most popular patterns for coach winkers are the slightly ovaled
+end and the full oval. For light buggy and road harness, square or
+square with round corners are preferred. Coupé, team, and heavy express
+winkers are similar to those used for coaches, while for wagon, cart,
+and other cheap harness the square pattern is preferred. The various
+plates in this book will give the reader a good idea of the popular
+form for winkers, though other styles are also used to a considerable
+extent. The illustrations of bridles in connection with this chapter
+show some of the distinctive patterns in detail. Fig. 1 represents the
+English coach bridle with the oval winker. This is the popular style
+for all coach and heavy coupé harness, though no exclusive pattern of
+winkers, cheek loops, or crown piece layers is followed. It is known as
+the bradoon swivel, the peculiarity being the attaching of the check
+rein to a billet stitched to the crown piece, passing it through a
+swivel on the bradoon bit, thence up to the gag runner. The cuttings
+are:
+
+                                   Length,   Width,
+                                   inches.   inches.
+    Crown piece                      28        1¾
+        Ends, split                   6½        ¾
+        Layer                         9         ¾
+    Gag runners                      12         ¾
+    Front                            28        1⅛
+    Nose and chin piece              33        1⅛
+    Cheeks                           29         ¾
+      Made up between buckles         8
+    Bradoon rein                     26        1
+        Rounded                      20
+    Center rein                      60         ¾
+    Throat latch                     27         ¾
+    Crown billets for bradoon rein   13         ¾
+    Face piece                       12
+        Billet                                  ¾
+    Winker strap                     13        1½
+        Billet                        5         ¾
+        Split                         7
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
+
+The narrow loops and center bar buckles give this bridle a showy
+appearance, but the regular buckles and pipe cheek loops are the most
+popular. With this and all other bridles where the face piece is used,
+a thin piece of steel should be attached to the under side to keep it
+in position.
+
+Fig. 2 represents another style of bradoon bridle, in which the bradoon
+bit is attached to a round cheek piece, and the swivel is dispensed
+with. It is claimed that a bridle of this kind causes the horse less
+pain, while being equally as effective as a check. The lengths for
+cutting are the same as those for Fig. 1, with the exception of the
+round cheeks, which must be ten inches long between the buckles.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
+
+Fig. 3 represents a third style of bradoon bridle, the extra cheek
+being flat.
+
+Fig. 4 is also a bradoon bridle, but differs from the preceding ones in
+the manner of attaching the gag runner.
+
+Fig. 5 represents a plainer style of bridle, suited to the lighter
+grades of coach and road harness.
+
+Fig. 6 is designed for light double harness; one of the plainest kinds
+in use.
+
+Fig. 7 represents a very neat bridle for single or light double harness.
+
+Fig. 8, a plain bridle with a half Kemble-Jackson check.
+
+Fig. 9, a heavy bridle for a team harness; the tugs on the ends of the
+cheeks are cut of patent leather, and may be ornamented with monograms
+or initial letters.
+
+Fig. 10 is designed for a team bridle, but is made up without winkers;
+the cheeks may be made as represented, or rounded. The latter appear
+much the lightest. The face piece may be flat or round. The most
+popular style of finishing is to round the ends below the face
+ornament, leaving the upper part flat.
+
+Fig. 11 represents a plain team harness bridle without winkers, the
+cheeks made up with patent leather ornaments and without buckles; the
+crown, cheeks, and throat latch billets are cut of one piece; the
+ornaments are stitched to the cheeks at the front piece, and held in
+position by two loops; or the patent leather ornaments may be lined and
+stitched, leaving the ends open to admit the cheek pieces; a cross face
+piece can be used in place of the nose piece, if preferred. The crown
+and cheeks are cut thirty-eight inches long. The measurements for the
+other straps are the same as those used for regular team bridles.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
+
+Fig. 12 represents a German Court bridle.
+
+Crown pieces are made up in a variety of styles, a number of which
+are given on page 195. A and B have the straight layer, but different
+styles of cheeks; C has no layer, the gag runner being attached to the
+throat latch billet; D has a folded crown piece with the layer, throat
+latch, and cheek billets cut in one, the layer being cut with an extra
+billet for the gag runner ring; E has the plain double waved layer; F
+has a short layer for the half Kemble-Jackson check, the gag runner
+being attached to the check. The same style of layer is used for the
+full Kemble-Jackson check. In both instances the opening for the check
+is made by a wedge-shaped piece stitched between the layer and crown
+piece. G shows the crown, with a short layer for securing the head
+terret, and an extra billet for the gag runner; H shows a plain strap
+layer, with an oval loop and a ring for a gag runner. This is used
+for carrying the gag rein well up and close to the cheek. I shows the
+common fold crown, with a plain waved layer.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII
+
+RIDING BRIDLES.
+
+
+Riding bridles, though forming a very important portion of the
+harness maker’s stock, are much less varied in character than most
+other leading articles, because display is not an important matter
+except in a limited number of cases. The military and ladies’ dress
+bridles are the only ones ornamented to any extent; even in these the
+principal strapping is a duplicate of the less pretentious article. The
+ornamenting consists of cross face or other similar decorations.
+
+Bridles take their name, except in isolated cases, from the style of
+bit used, the headstall of a Pelham, bradoon, port, or snaffle being of
+the same pattern, made up with or without billets for the bit rings.
+Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent a bradoon, or loose ring, a double rein
+port, and a Pelham, the strapping, with the exception of the reins,
+being the same in all. The regular lengths and widths for cutting with
+and without billets are:
+
+                                  Length,   Width,
+                                  inches.   inches.
+    Crown piece                     24        1⅜
+        Split                        7
+    Cheeks                          13         ¾
+        Without billets             15         ¾
+        Billets                      8         ¾
+    Throat latch, two buckles       12         ⅝
+    Front                           22         ¾
+    Reins                           52         ¾
+        Billets                      8         ¾
+        Without billets             56         ¾
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1. Bradoon.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2. Double Rein Post.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3. Pelham.]
+
+Fig. 4 is a plain snaffle bridle, the lengths for cutting being the
+same as those previously noticed; Fig. 5 is a single round cheek
+bridle, in which but two pieces are used for the cheeks and crown; the
+throat latch is cut in one piece and is rounded the whole length, the
+ends being joined by a leather tassel. The cuttings are:
+
+                                 Length,    Width,
+                                 inches.    inches.
+    Cheek, buckle side             20         ¾
+           billet side             24         ¾
+           rounded                 12
+        Billets                     9         ¾
+    Throat latch                   39         ¾
+    Reins                          54         ¾
+        rounded                    18
+        Billets                     9         ¾
+    Front                          24         ¾
+        rounded                             11½
+    Curb straps                    22         ½
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4. Plain Snaffle.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 5. Round Check.]
+
+Fig. 6 is a double cheek bridle with a plain port and a light bradoon
+bit. The cheeks and crown piece for each bit are cut in one piece. The
+cuttings are:
+
+                                       Length,    Width,
+                                       inches.    inches.
+    Port cheeks and crown                34         ¾
+            rounded                      12
+    Bradoon cheeks and crown             36         ¾
+            rounded                      12
+            Billets                       8         ¾
+
+Fig. 7 represents another style of double cheek bridle, the cuttings
+for which are the same as for Fig. 5, both cheeks being of the same
+length; the nose strap, which may be used or not, is cut three quarters
+of an inch wide and twenty-eight inches long, and rounded fifteen
+inches.
+
+Fig. 8 represents a double cheek bridle, in which the cheek pieces on
+each side are cut in one; the crown piece for the cheek is also cut as
+one; it is doubled and buckled on the crown, and is provided with two
+small slide loops; the throat latch and crown are cut in one as are
+also the nose and chin pieces. The cuttings are:
+
+                                       Length,    Width,
+                                       inches.    inches.
+    Cheeks                               33         ¾
+          rounded                        24
+        Billets                           8         ¾
+    Crown piece, made up as hame strap   24         ¾
+    Throat latch                         39         ⅝
+
+Fig. 9 represents a style of double cheek and bit bridle made up with
+long cheeks and without billets. The cuttings are:
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 6. Double Check, Port, and Bradoon.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 8. Double Check, Round.]
+
+                                Length,    Width,
+                                inches.    inches.
+    Cheeks, port, buckle side     20        ¾
+            billet side           24        ¾
+    Bradoon, bit, buckle side     22        ⅝
+            billet side           26        ⅝
+    Throat latch                  22        ⅝
+    Front, made up                13        ½
+    Bradoon reins                 90        ¾
+    Port reins                    96        ¾
+            Billets                8        ¾
+
+The peculiarity of these bridles is the manner in which the port cheeks
+and throat latches are cut and made up, and the use of separate straps
+for the crown and cheeks for the bradoon bits. The English Weymouth
+bridle is not as popular in this country as the port and bradoon. It
+has double cheeks, one of which is buckled into the ring on the top of
+the bit check, the other is cut longer and is buckled into the rein
+ring at the end of the mouth piece, the bit used being the Pelham.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
+
+Three kinds of leather are used for bridles—black harness, russet,
+and buff. Light weights should be used in all cases, and the cheek
+straps and reins cut from the firmest part of the side. English russet
+has long been a favorite brand of leather, but the better grades of
+American are equal to it in every respect. Buff leather is used to a
+considerable extent for flat fancy bridles, to be used with saddles
+having seat and knee pads made of buckskin. This leather, being soft,
+is not creased, and is stitched no more than is absolutely necessary
+to secure the various straps. Cheap bridles are sometimes made up with
+plated rosettes, but leather is used on all finer grades.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+HALTERS.
+
+
+Halters constitute a very important part of the harness maker’s stock.
+The varieties are numerous; though apparently unnecessary, they are
+required to suit the preferences of different sections of the country,
+and render it obligatory on harness makers to be prepared at all times
+to meet the demands of their customers. The many illustrations in
+this chapter will enable the manufacturer to present to his customers
+correct representations to select from, while the lengths for cutting
+and the directions for making up will be found of great value in the
+work shop.
+
+Fig. 1. represents the United States Government regulation halter, the
+principal merit of which is its strength and simplicity; it is easy
+to adjust, and can not be slipped off by the horse rubbing his head
+against posts or other objects. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                             Inches.
+    Crown piece                26
+          Chape                 8
+    Cheeks                     14
+    Throat piece               22
+    Chin piece, if double      30
+          single               18
+    Nose piece                 18
+    Bolt piece                 18
+          made up               6
+    Hitching strap, or stem    84
+          Billet               10
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+The regulation width is 1¼ inches; for general use, however, 1 inch is
+wide enough.
+
+Fig. 2 is the Spanish halter; it bears a general resemblance to Fig.
+1, from which it was modeled, but it is put together in a different
+manner; has a front and a cockeye attached to the bolt piece; all the
+straps but the front are cut long, and are doubled and stitched. The
+lengths for cutting are:
+
+                            Inches.
+    Crown piece               42
+            Buckle chape       8
+    Throat piece              28
+            Buckle chape      21
+    Cheek pieces              17
+    Nose piece                34
+    Chin piece                36
+    Bolt piece                10
+    Front                     19
+
+All the straps but the front are 1¼ inches wide; the latter is 1 inch
+wide; =D= rings are used for the upper, and square loops for the lower,
+ends of the cheeks.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
+
+Fig. 3 is a heavy French stall halter of ornamental design and finish;
+it is used as a bridle halter as well. The cutting lengths are:
+
+                          Inches.
+    Crown piece            24
+        End split           5
+    Cheek pieces           11
+    Nose piece             16
+    Chin piece             17
+        Chape               6
+    Throat latch           22
+    Front                  18
+    Lining to nose piece   24
+
+The crown piece is 2¼ inches wide, the cheeks 1¼ inches, and all other
+straps 1 inch; the lining, which is of patent leather, is 2¼ inches
+wide in the center.
+
+Fig. 4 is a heavy cleaning, or groom, halter. The nose piece is made
+with a flat iron top, having three rings attached, these being used to
+secure the horse’s head in any desired position. The nose piece plate
+is lined with heavy leather, and padded. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                         Inches.
+    Crown piece            22
+        Split               6
+    Cheeks                 15
+    Throat latch           22
+    Front                  27
+    Nose piece             13
+    Pad roll               11
+    Chin billet            11
+        Chape               6
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
+
+The crown piece is cut 1½ inches, the throat latch ⅝ of an inch, all
+other straps 1 inch wide.
+
+Fig. 5 represents a training halter of a neat and tasty design. All the
+principal straps are cut of bridle or buff leather, or of heavy twilled
+white web; the chapes of black harness leather for light colored
+leather halters, and bridle or buff leather for web halters. The chapes
+are all of an ornamental pattern; those for securing the ends of the
+strapping to the rings are cut double, those holding the throat strap
+rings have a small billet by which the rings are secured. The lengths
+for cutting are:
+
+                         Inches.
+    Long check piece      23
+    Short  ”     ”        17
+    Throat piece          18
+    Nose piece            12
+    Chin piece            10
+         Buckle chape      8
+    Bolt piece, made up    6½
+
+The cheeks and bolt pieces are 1 inch wide, nose and chin pieces ⅞ of
+an inch wide.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
+
+Fig. 6 is another style of training halter, which, like the preceding
+one, is made of buff, russet, or black leather, or of linen web. When
+the latter is used, the chapes should be of russet leather; metallic
+rosettes having a stout center pin and four loops on the under side are
+used to connect the various parts, thus dispensing with buckles except
+on the throat latch chape; if these rosettes are not accessible, square
+loops may be used for the lower ends of the cheeks, and a buckle be
+attached to the short cheek piece, using fancy or plain leather for
+rosettes. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                                       Inches.
+    Long cheek, including crown piece   27
+    Short cheek                         15
+    Front                               19
+    Chin piece                          18
+    Nose piece                          18
+    Throat latch                        17
+          Billet                         9
+
+If web and leather layers are used, deduct from these lengths 3 inches
+for each lap. The cheeks are cut 1¼ inches, the nose, front, and chin 1
+inch, and the throat latch ⅞ of an inch wide.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
+
+Fig. 7 represents a bitting halter, one of the most desirable styles in
+use. It closely resembles the straight cheek style of years past, the
+only difference being in the manner of attaching the throat piece, and
+in the use of two short cheeks. This may be made of buff, russet, or
+black leather. The buckles used on the cheeks are extra heavy, the side
+bar being made to answer as a substitute for loops to which the throat
+piece is attached. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                   Inches.
+    Crown piece     32
+    Cheeks          10
+    Chin, double    24
+    Buckle chape     8
+    Nose            18
+    Throat piece    22
+    Loop piece      15
+
+All the straps with the exception of the throat piece are cut 1¼ inches
+wide; this is cut 1 inch.
+
+Fig. 8 closely resembles Fig. 7, the difference being in the manner
+of attaching the throat strap, and the use of but one buckle on the
+cheeks. The cuttings are the same, with the exception of the cheek
+pieces, which are cut:
+
+                   Inches.
+    Long cheek       25
+    Short cheek      16
+
+The loops used for securing the throat piece are of metal or leather,
+and are provided with a short screw, by which they are held in position.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
+
+Fig. 9 represents a strong stable halter, of different construction
+than any previously noticed. The cheeks, crowns, and throat latch are
+cut so as to obviate the use of the usual buckles or rings in the cheek
+pieces. The billet to the stem and the bolt, or loop piece, are also in
+one piece. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                                                 Inches.
+    Long cheek, including throat latch             52
+    Short cheek, including billet to throat latch  29
+    Front, double                                  22
+    Nose, double                                   23
+    Chin, double                                   23
+    Billet to stem                                 18
+
+Fig. 10 represents another peculiar style, commonly known as the Yankee
+halter. It is designed for a slip halter, and is easily made. The
+lengths for cutting are:
+
+                          Inches.
+    Head piece              50
+    Nose piece              28
+    Braces                  12
+    Hitching strap          84
+
+All the straps are cut of uniform width, either 1 or 1¼ inches. Attach
+the braces 9 inches from the ring on the head piece.
+
+Fig. 11 represents a double cheek halter, designed to be used for
+training purposes. The lengths for cuttings are:
+
+                              Inches.
+    Crown                       20
+        Buckle chape             8
+    Cheeks                      22
+        Billets                  9
+    Extra crown piece           22
+    Nose piece                  18
+    Chin piece, double          24
+    Front                       22
+    Throat latch                22
+
+The crown piece is cut 1 inch wide; all other straps, ¾ of an inch wide.
+
+Fig. 12 represents another style of four ring halter, the buckles
+being in the cheek pieces; the rings may be covered with a rosette, if
+desired. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                          Inches.
+    Crown                   17
+    Cheeks                  14
+    Cheek billets            7
+    Nose piece              18
+    Chin, double            30
+    Throat piece            26
+    Bolt piece               5½
+
+The cheeks, crown, and bolt piece are cut 1¼ inches wide; the other
+straps, 1 inch.
+
+Fig. 13 is also designed for a training halter. The lengths for cutting
+are:
+
+                                   Inches.
+    Long cheek and crown             32
+    Short cheek                      15
+    Throat latch and crown in one    42
+    Nose piece, double               24
+    Chin piece, double               23
+    Loop piece                        8
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
+
+All the straps are 1 inch wide, excepting the front: this is ¾ of an
+inch.
+
+Fig. 14 represents a double cheek halter without buckles, except on
+the top of the crown. The nose and cheeks are secured in position by a
+layer which secures the rings; the throat latch is stitched to the back
+cheek piece just below the face piece. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                            Inches.
+    Cheeks                     21
+    Throat latch               20
+        Billet                  6
+    Nose piece, double         23
+    Chin piece, double         25
+    Loop piece                  8
+
+The cheeks are cut ½ inch wide; other straps, 1 inch.
+
+Fig. 15 represents a four ring halter with front, and buckles on the
+cheeks. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                            Inches.
+    Cheeks                    12
+        Billets                5½
+    Crown piece               18
+        Buckle chape           8
+
+All other straps, as well as the widths, the same as in Fig. 1.
+
+Fig. 16 represents a very convenient slip halter. The lengths for
+cutting are:
+
+                                    Inches.
+    Crown piece                      21
+    Throat and cheek pieces in one   38
+    Nose and chin piece in one       24
+
+All the straps are cut 1 inch wide.
+
+Fig. 17 represents a convenient style of team halter to be worn with
+the bridle. The lengths for cutting are:
+
+                                    Inches.
+    Crown and throat latch in one    30
+    Nose and chin strap in one       26
+    Cheeks                           10
+    Bolt piece                        7
+
+Cuttings for a common bridle or three ring halter:
+
+                                   Length,    Width,
+                                   inches.    inches.
+    Cheek, including crown piece     34         1
+          Short                      12         1
+    Front                            24         1
+    Nose band                        18         1
+    Chin, doubled                    30          ⅞
+    Bolt piece                       18         1
+    Throat latch                     39          ¾
+    Stem                             84         1
+          Billet                      9         1
+    Bit strap                         9         1
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
+
+A web halter:
+
+                              Length,    Width,
+                              inches.    inches.
+    Crown                       24         1¼
+    Cheeks                       8         1¼
+        Chapes                   5         1⅛
+    Front                       12         1¼
+        Chapes                   8         1⅛
+    Nose                        13         1¼
+    Throat latch, leather       39          ¾
+    Chin piece, leather         30          ¾
+    Bolt piece                  18         1
+
+Yankee one ring halter:
+
+    Crown piece, nose and chin in one  84   1
+    Braces                             12   1
+
+To make this halter, cut for the buckle tongue, and bend down the
+buckle lap; then measure off 12 inches, and bend down for ring; then
+28 inches, and bend for nose band; then place the brace in the center
+between the front of the nose band and center of the chin piece at the
+ring; cross the strap through the ring, and bring the crown end up on
+the off side: this will place the buckle on the near side. Set the
+crown piece at an angle so as to take the upper end of the braces. This
+makes a convenient halter, which easily adjusts itself to the head of
+any horse.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+HORSE BOOTS.
+
+
+The artist who pictured a horse on the track with his legs encased in
+boots, etc., from the bottom of the hoof up to the body, was not so
+far from the truth as many persons would suppose, for there is no part
+of the limb, from the knee down, for which boots are not made. The
+illustrations in this chapter represent the general styles, though not
+all the varieties in the market. There are many patented boots, some of
+them possessing merit, a description of which would be of no practical
+use to the harness maker. There are several classes of boots, such as
+the knee, shin, ankle, quarter, and combination, each of which has its
+distinctive name.
+
+The illustrations in this chapter have an advantage over those found
+elsewhere, in that nearly all are drawn in exact proportions; and
+the descriptions are such that a harness maker may readily furnish a
+customer with any desired pattern. Making horse boots is not a simple
+operation: success depends upon their being so constructed that they
+will retain their position without being strapped so tight as to
+interfere with the freest movement of the horse’s leg. To accomplish
+this, the leather used for shields must be worked up firm and the
+securing straps placed where they will draw in direct lines. When
+fullness is to be given to the shields, the best plan is to cut out a
+V and stitch the edges together; they may, however, be stamped up with
+dies. For convenience, each class will be described separately.
+
+Fig. 1 represents one of the best styles of knee boot in use; it is
+made of heavy bridle leather, cut in two pieces, as shown by A and B;
+the former is worked up nearly flat, except that portion below D, where
+it is shaped to fit to B, which is worked up full in the center; a
+gore is taken out at C, and the edges joined to secure the shape. The
+securing strap, D, is of medium weight bridle leather, and is stitched
+to the shield before the lining is put in. The lining, which is of
+buckskin, is turned in all around, so that the edge is placed between
+the two pieces, and stitched down all around; a very little wool or
+hair is placed between the two, and the center is secured by stitching
+at the highest point in the shield B. The securing strap is also lined
+with buckskin and stuffed with felt; the billet, which is twenty inches
+long and one half inch wide, is stitched to the securing strap. The
+buckle chape is stitched to a strong loop at the other end of the main
+strap; the two small loops hold the billet in position, it being passed
+around the boot before it is buckled; the drawing is one quarter size.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+Fig. 2 is a plain, heavy knee boot. This is cut from one piece of
+leather; that portion above the securing strap is flat, the lower part
+has a half inch raise in the center; the lining is of buckskin, wool
+or hair being used for padding. The securing strap is cut of good,
+firm leather, and lined with buckskin, padded with felt. The billet is
+cut one half inch wide and fourteen inches long. There are five small
+loops, each one inch long, placed as shown on the main strap. The
+drawing is one quarter size.
+
+Fig. 3 represents a peculiar shaped but desirable knee boot. It is cut
+from one piece of harness or bridle leather; the cap piece is gored
+in two places, to produce the requisite fullness; it is lined with
+buckskin and padded with a single thickness of felt; the lining is
+cut large and the edge turned in so as to form a roll all around; two
+heavy pads are attached to the under side as bearings; one is shown
+by the line X, the other is placed directly under the buckle; the
+center-pad is nearly one inch thick, the one under the buckle is about
+three quarters of an inch thick; both are made of felt placed under the
+buckskin. This boot when made up is nine inches long. The proportions
+in the drawing are based upon that measurement.
+
+Fig. 4 differs but little in shape from Fig. 3, but is made up plainer.
+The proportions are the same.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4. FIG. 5.]
+
+Figs. 6 and 7 represent two patterns of knee boots of an entirely
+different model from the above. They are also much lighter. The body
+of Fig. 6 is made of enameled leather, lined throughout with buckskin;
+the shield is of heavy harness leather struck up full, and slightly
+padded with felt. The bearing pads, shown by the dotted lines, are
+raised about three quarters of an inch; they are of felt, covered with
+buckskin. The long or top billet is cut eight inches long and three
+quarters of an inch wide; the bottom billet is cut six inches long and
+three quarters of an inch wide; a small gore is cut at X; the edges are
+drawn together and blind stitched before the lining is stitched in. The
+drawing is one third the full size.
+
+Fig. 7, though designed for the same purpose as Fig. 6, is much
+lighter, and, being more open, is less likely to bind when on the knee.
+The lower billet is so placed that it does not bear upon the cords
+sufficiently to displace it when the knee is bent. It is made up in
+the same manner and of similar material as Fig. 6. The upper or leg
+strap is cut nineteen inches long and five eighths of an inch wide; the
+lower billet is cut ten inches long and one half inch wide. The other
+proportions, as shown, are one third the full size.
+
+Fig. 5 represents a knee pad or breaking boot; the body is made of
+heavy felt; the leg strap is stitched to the felt and lined with
+buckskin; the knee safe is made of several thicknesses of bridle
+leather, worked up full in the center.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
+
+Combination boots are made in a great variety of styles, there being
+at least fifty different patterns in use. The principal portion of the
+shield is designed expressly to protect the shin; to this is attached
+a cap piece for covering the knee or ankle. The styles illustrated
+comprise the regular lines, and, with the slight variations necessary
+to secure a good fit, are all that are needed.
+
+Fig. 8 represents a shin and ankle boot. The body is made of heavy
+felt, the shield of harness leather, worked up full at the ankle
+end; the latter is stitched to the body with a single row around the
+edge and a few stitches at each end. The shaded spaces on each side
+represent strips of leather; the blank space A, strips of elastic web;
+these are attached to the body by the stitching shown on the strips
+nearest the shield; the remaining portion of the webs and the straps to
+which the buckle chapes and billets are attached are left loose, the
+portion of the body under them acting as a safe; by the use of these
+elastic strips the boot is freed from the rigidity so often noticeable,
+and the horse is relieved from any undue pressure. The shield when made
+up is eight inches long; the reduced size of the drawing is based upon
+that measurement.
+
+Another style of shin and ankle boot is shown by Fig. 9, which may
+also be used as a shin and knee boot. The body is of heavy felt, bound
+on the top and bottom edges with thin leather, and lined throughout
+with buckskin; the shield is padded with hair. The dimensions of this
+boot are: body, nine inches wide and six and one half inches deep; the
+billets are four inches, and the buckle chapes three inches, long. The
+shield is reduced in the same proportions as the body.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
+
+A light cord and knee boot is shown by Fig. 10. The body is made of
+black enameled leather, lined with buckskin, double stitched. The
+shield is of heavy harness leather, worked up full and padded with
+hair, the buckskin lining extending the full length of the shield. The
+billets are cut three eighths of an inch wide and seven inches long,
+the buckle chapes the same width and one and one quarter inches long;
+the proportions are one sixth the full size.
+
+Fig. 11 illustrates a knee and cord boot of another pattern. The body
+is cut of medium weight harness leather, and bound with light enameled
+leather; the leg strap is made of strips of black enameled leather,
+stitched together on the edges and through the center, and stuffed with
+hair; it is attached to the body by two thicknesses of black enameled
+leather; the shield is of heavy leather, padded with hair. The billets
+on the body are five inches long and one half inch wide; the billet on
+the leg strap is five and one half inches long and one half inch wide.
+The drawing is one sixth actual size.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
+
+Fig. 12 represents a combined shin, ankle, and cord boot. The body, B,
+is of heavy felt, bound with buckskin; the shield, A, of heavy harness
+leather, worked up full at the lower end; D, a piece of heavy leather,
+lined with buckskin, stuffed with hair so as to make a cushion about
+one half inch thick; C, two pieces of elastic web, the outside piece
+being cut a little wider than the other; the web is secured in position
+by the stitching which is used to attach the shield A and piece D to
+the body and lining; the billets are attached at the shield, and pass
+through small loops near the outer edge of the body; E represents the
+cord piece, made of heavy leather, lined with buckskin at the lower
+end, an inside layer being attached at the top of the cap and extending
+up to the top, where there are two holes, as shown in E, through which
+a round leather lacer passes, and by which the top ends are joined.
+When the cord piece is used, the thin piece is placed between the two
+pieces of web, C, and the top, secured by the lacer. The drawing is one
+fourth the actual size.
+
+Two other styles of combination boots are shown by Figs. 13 and 14, an
+ankle and wrist boot. Fig. 13, the body, is of heavy blue kersey, bound
+with light enameled leather; the shield is of heavy harness leather;
+the ankle portion is worked up full and hard; owing to the thickness
+of the material used in the body, no stuffing is used. The wrist strap
+is of elastic web; it passes between the shield and body, and is held
+in position by the stitching. The billets for the top are cut five and
+one half inches long and one half inch wide; the kersey body is cut
+nine and one half inches wide across the top and eight inches long; the
+shield is three and three quarter inches in diameter; all other parts
+are drawn to the same scale.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
+
+Fig. 14 represents a combined shin, ankle, and wrist boot, made up of
+the same materials and in the same manner as Fig. 13. It is cut two
+inches longer than the latter, otherwise the proportions are the same;
+the billets are cut five inches long and one half inch wide. The wrist
+web is seven eighths of an inch wide.
+
+Fig. 15 shows a design of shin and ankle boot intended as a protection
+to the hind legs. The body is made of black enameled leather, lined
+throughout with buckskin. The shin shield has but little fullness,
+and is padded on the under side with hair placed between the enameled
+leather and the buckskin, the padded section being quilted to hold the
+hair in position. The body to the ankle portion is also of enameled
+leather, lined in like manner as the shin body; the shield is of
+harness leather, worked up full and hard. The set of this piece depends
+much upon the position of the billets and buckle chape; these are shown
+in their proper position. The body of the shin boot is eight and three
+quarter inches across the top and ten and three quarter inches across
+the bottom; the shield is seven and three quarter inches long; the
+ankle shield is two and three quarter inches in diameter, all other
+proportions being relatively the same. The ankle billet is cut eight
+inches long and five eighth inches wide, about one half the length
+being rounded and covered with buckskin.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
+
+A shin, ankle, and speedy cut boot is shown by Fig. 16, which, like
+the preceding boot, is designed for the hind leg, the pattern being
+one of the best in use; the speedy cut portion, C, is made up separate
+from the shin boot, and is held in position by the lower billet of the
+latter passing through a long loop on the top end. The body, B, is of
+heavy kersey; the shield, of harness leather, worked up slightly in the
+leg part and full at the ankle; the under side of the shield is padded
+with hair; the pastern piece, C, is of black enameled leather, lined
+with buckskin; the shield, D, of harness leather, slightly rounded up;
+the billet attached to the pastern piece is covered for about one half
+its length with buckskin. The two upper boot billets are five inches
+long and five eighths of an inch wide; the lower billet is cut nine
+inches long; the pastern billet is cut eight inches long, one half inch
+wide. The illustration is drawn to one quarter the full size.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
+
+Fig. 17 represents an improved ankle boot, lighter than most other
+kinds, and the location of the shield is such as to give greater
+protection to the ankle than that of the ordinary boot. The body is
+cut of harness leather; the shield, which is two and one half inches
+in diameter, is made of harness leather, worked up full and hard; a
+gore is taken out of the body, the edges are closed up smooth under the
+concave of the shield. Two bearing cushions are used, one under the
+buckle chape, the other as shown by the dotted lines near the billet;
+these are of felt, covered with buckskin; the one under the chape is
+two and one quarter inches; the other, one and one half inches long
+and seven eighths of an inch wide; the boot is lined throughout with
+thin patent leather. The full measurements are: length on the top line,
+eight and one half inches; width of square ends, one inch; depth at
+the widest point, four inches. The center of the shield is six and one
+quarter inches from the top corner at the billet end and five inches at
+the buckle end; the billet is six inches long and one half inch wide.
+
+Fig. 18 represents a plain, cheap ankle boot; the body is of heavy
+kersey, single or double; the shield is of harness leather, worked up
+full and hard at the ankle; the shield is six inches long and three and
+one half inches wide at the widest point and two inches wide at the
+top; the proportions of the body are based upon this measurement. The
+billets are five and one half inches long and one half inch wide; they,
+as well as the buckle chapes, are stitched to the body two and one half
+inches back of the edges.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 18.]
+
+A more expensive boot is shown by Fig. 19. The shield is of heavy
+russet leather struck up full and hard; the body is of heavy kersey,
+bound with buckskin; the leg strap is of russet leather; it is nine
+inches long and one inch wide; it, as well as the shield, is secured
+to the body by a single row of stitching. The various proportions are:
+shield, four and one half inches long, three and one half inches wide
+at the broadest point and two inches at the leg strap; the bearing pad,
+A, is one and one half inches long and one half inch thick; the billet
+is cut six inches long and one half inch wide.
+
+Fig. 20 represents the hard leather cup ankle boot. The body is cut of
+heavy harness leather; a large gore is cut out of the top side, the
+edges of which are afterwards joined and blind stitched on the outside;
+the edges of the gore must be cut with a slight curve, in order to
+secure a regular circular fullness; the layer is cut of heavy leather,
+worked up full and stitched to the body; the buckle chape is cut three
+and one half inches long, and the billet eleven inches long. Two
+bearing cushions are used; one is shown by C, the outlines of the other
+by the dotted line near the top of the shield. These are of buckskin,
+stuffed with hair. The inside of the boot is skived off smooth all
+around the lower edge, care being taken to avoid all irregularities.
+The small cut A represents a side view of this boot. The large drawing
+is one half actual size.
+
+Heel boots constitute a distinct class, of which there is a great
+variety; but those shown by the illustrations are all that are required
+for general use. Fig. 21 represents a well fitting boot of this class;
+the body is cut of medium weight harness leather; the layer is cut
+of heavy stock, worked up hard and stiffened by the layer under the
+shield; three gores are cut out of the top of the body, and the edges
+are joined and secured by blind stitches; a small section is gashed to
+form a fringe. The body is cut nine and one half inches long on the top
+line, four and one half inches deep in the center, and three inches at
+the ends; the shield is six inches long and two and one half inches
+deep; the billets are three inches long and one and one half inches
+wide.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 19.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 20.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A plain, serviceable quarter boot is shown by Fig. 22; it is made of a
+single piece of heavy harness leather, lined with felt; the top edge
+is cut as shown to provide a yielding surface and prevent injury to
+the horse; six gores are taken out of the bottom; the edges are joined
+to produce the required shape; the felt lining extends to the top and
+within one half inch of the bottom, and is secured as shown by the
+lines of stitching. Buckles are not used, the ends being fastened by
+means of loops attached to one, and holes cut through the other to
+admit their passing through; they are then locked by a heavy billet
+as shown. An ordinary boot is fourteen inches long on the top line of
+stitches, the line being described by a twelve inch radius; the lower
+line is contracted by the goring to twenty inches; the depth when made
+up is four inches.
+
+Fig. 23 represents a toe boot for the hind foot; this is made up of
+heavy harness leather; the top section, indicated by the dotted line,
+is lined with buckskin and padded. The full length of the body is
+twelve inches; depth, five and one half inches; the bottom line has a
+sweep of three inches; the buckle and roller loop chape is cut three
+and one half inches long.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 21.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 22.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 23.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
+
+Another boot designed for the same purpose is shown by Fig. 24; this
+is cut of heavy leather, the top being lined with buckskin to make a
+cushion one inch deep.
+
+Toe weight boots are designed for an entirely different purpose than
+those previously noticed, but they properly belong to this department.
+
+Fig. 25 represents a boot with two weights, A; these are of lead,
+covered with leather. The body of the boot is of heavy leather, cut
+twenty-one and three quarter inches long on the lower line, and three
+and one eighth inches deep in the center. The billet is fourteen inches
+long and five eighths of an inch wide; the buckle chape is nine and one
+half inches long; it is attached to the lower edge of the body, and
+passes through a slot on the opposite side; the billet is attached in
+like manner and passed through a similar slot.
+
+Another toe weight is shown by Figs. 26 and 27; the body, A, is of
+leather, having two slots as shown by X; the weight, B, is of lead,
+secured by an adjustable hook shown by Fig. 27; this is secured by a
+single strap which passes through the slots in the body and hook. A
+combined weight and quarter boot is shown by Fig. 28. The body is cut
+of one piece, of heavy leather, the quarter form being produced by
+gores; the quarter is lined with heavy felt and stiffened by layers;
+the toe weight and securing hook are secured by a piece of leather
+stitched to the body; the securing strap is stitched to the toe, and
+passes through a roller loop back to the buckle.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 25.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 26.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 27.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 28.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
+
+
+In describing harness mountings, it is not the intention of the author
+to draw comparisons as to the respective merits of any class or style.
+The sole aim is to give a correct description of the various kinds,
+their peculiarities of manufacture, and such other information as will
+enable the reader to judge as to the adaptability of any particular
+style for a specific use.
+
+In order that they may be fully explained, they will be divided into
+five classes, as follows: Plated, whether silver, gold, or nickel; pure
+metal; covered, whether leather or composition; japanned, and tinned.
+
+Plated mountings are divided into two classes—close plate, those in
+which the fine metal is rolled out in thin sheets and applied as a
+covering to the iron or composition forming the body of the article,
+and caused to adhere by means of solder and heat; electro plate, those
+in which the fine metal is dissolved and formed into a liquid solution,
+into which the articles to be coated are suspended, and by the
+application of an electric current the fine metal is evenly deposited
+upon the surface of the iron or composition.
+
+The silver used for close plating is rolled out in sheets of various
+thicknesses, and designated by numbers, the lightest being No. 1;
+following this are three grades, designated as No. 1½ light, fair, and
+stout, the former weighing three pennyweights to a foot in length by
+6½ inches in width; the second weighs 3½ pennyweights, while the third
+weighs 4½ pennyweights. Next to these are three grades, designated
+as No. 2 light, fair, and stout. The first weighs 5½, the second 6½,
+and the third 7½ pennyweights to the foot. Following these are three
+grades, designated as No. 2½ light, fair, and stout. The first weighs
+8½, the second 9½, and the third 10½ pennyweights to the foot. The
+second is also designated as “Knob;” and the third, “Heavy Knob.” The
+latter is seldom used on harness mountings, as it can not be worked to
+an advantage except by the hard solder process, which is too expensive
+for harness work. “Knob” silver is the heaviest used for the regular
+trade.
+
+It will be seen that there are eight grades of silver below the “Knob,”
+which explains in part why there is so great a difference in the prices
+of plated goods of any one pattern; for, based upon the government
+standard, a foot of No. 1 silver, 6½ inches wide, would be worth 13.6
+cents, while a foot of “Knob” silver would be 64.6; but the actual
+difference in the prices of the rolled plate is even greater than this.
+Then, too, the cost of labor is much greater for putting on heavy than
+light silver. The former is so thin that but little labor is required
+to solder it to the article to be plated, while the extra thickness of
+the latter necessitates extra skill and time.
+
+Buyers who are not experts are at a loss how to determine the quality
+of the plate. This can be done by examining the surface closely; the
+thinner the silver the less dense and perfect the surface. No. 1 will
+show minute holes in great number, while the surface of “Knob” will
+be perfect to the naked eye. It is not so easy to distinguish between
+two succeeding grades, but by a little care a person who handles these
+goods can learn to select each distinct grade. Close plate can be
+easily distinguished from the electro plate. All that is required is to
+breathe upon the polished surface, and if it is close plate the seam
+where the metal is joined will be seen at a glance, it showing a bluish
+streak; the heavier the plate the more distinct the seam.
+
+Electro plate is less durable than close plate; but when deposited in
+sufficient quantity and hand burnished, it will wear well; the surface,
+however, is less perfect than the former, as the thin coating of silver
+is deposited evenly over the entire surface, and an irregularity in
+the casting will show itself after the work is burnished; in fact,
+blemishes are more easily detected after being plated and burnished
+than before, as the minute depressions can not be reached by the
+burnisher, and they therefore show dead, white spots.
+
+The peculiar white lustre of silver distinguishes it from other
+metals, but there are other tests by which the uninitiated may satisfy
+themselves as to the quality. The simplest is to prepare a cold
+saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid. A little
+of this may be applied to the surface (which must be perfectly clean)
+by means of a glass rod, and washed off immediately with cold water.
+If the article tested is pure silver, a blood-red colored mark will
+appear; if the article is German silver, the liquid appears brown, but
+the mark shows no shade of red. On other white metals there are various
+actions, but in none but the silver does the red mark appear.
+
+Persons unacquainted with the nature of silver condemn an article as
+impure because of its tarnishing. This is erroneous, as pure silver
+assumes a dingy reddish brown, and loses its lustre more readily than
+some of the composition white metals.
+
+Gold plating is always done by the electro process, the other processes
+for applying it to coarser metal not being adapted to harness
+mountings. It is the most showy but frailest plating in use; the
+thin deposit is naturally soft, and but little friction is required
+to remove it. If hand burnished, the gold is made more dense than
+otherwise; but even this is not as durable as other plating. There is
+no such an article of manufacture as close plate gold, nor can there
+be unless a solder can be produced which will melt under a lower heat
+than gold, and as there is no such solder at this time, all claims of
+a gold covered article being close plate are fraudulent.
+
+The introduction of nickel as a covering for mountings has produced
+a marked change in some lines of goods, supplanting as it has in a
+great measure burnishing on bits, stirrups, spurs, etc., and being
+largely used as a plate for all kinds of harness mountings. The nickel
+is deposited by the electro process, but, as it is a hard metal, it
+wears well. The color is a bluish white, more closely resembling finely
+polished steel than any thing else. It does not tarnish easily, and
+will not rust. The only objection to it aside from the color is that
+it will sometimes peel—that is, the nickel will become detached from
+the iron or composition core; but this is due either to some defect in
+cleaning the surface to be plated or in the manner of depositing the
+nickel. Improvements are being made in the process of depositing the
+nickel, and there is every reason to believe that the objectionable
+features will be overcome, and with the reduction in price it will take
+the place of tinned and other low priced white metal goods.
+
+The next class are those goods made of some composition metal, such
+as brass, oroide, aluminum, and German silver. Brass has long been a
+favorite mounting, though in this country it has been deemed better
+suited to express and other heavy mountings than for coach or light
+carriage harness; but fashion has once more brought it into use on
+coach harness, and it is likely, for a time at least, to assume the
+position held by gold for some years past. The advantages of brass are
+that it can be cast to any form, retains its malleability, is quite
+dense, and readily receives a brilliant polish; but its proneness to
+tarnish is an objection which tends to overcome its good qualities.
+The color is regulated by the proportions of the metals forming the
+compound, and skill in the moulder in turning it off just when it has
+been raised to the proper heat.
+
+Oroide, like brass, is a yellow metal, and when first introduced was
+recommended as a substitute for gold; when polished it has a golden
+color, but it tarnishes too easily to be used without being plated. It,
+however, furnishes an excellent base for gilding, and for that reason
+is largely used. It can be cast as easily as brass, and is equally
+malleable; it can also be used for plating iron articles which are to
+be gilded, but if not plated or gilded it possesses but few advantages
+over ordinary brass.
+
+Aluminum, or, as it is also called, alumina bronze, is the finest
+yellow metal produced; its color closely resembles that of gold, while
+it is susceptible of as high a polish as the latter; it is tough,
+though next to gold in lightness, but its high price prevents its being
+used for any but the most expensive mountings.
+
+German silver is used to a considerable extent for mountings which are
+to be plated with silver. For this purpose it is the best white metal
+known; other kinds have been introduced, but they have not proven
+suitable for mountings. The objection to all composition castings is
+their lack of rigidity, and they should never be used for check rein
+hooks of any kind; these should be of iron, and plated to correspond
+with the terrets, etc.
+
+Composition possesses one great advantage over iron which should be
+understood by harness makers and consumers. It does not rust, and
+can therefore be used in localities where iron can not, owing to the
+proneness of the latter to rust—particularly on the sea coast, where
+the sea air acts very injuriously on plated mountings.
+
+Covered mountings consist of two kinds, those in which the metal is
+covered with leather, and, secondly, those having a metal core covered
+with a plastic composition. Leather covered is one of the oldest styles
+of mounting in use, but it was many years before it reached the state
+of perfection so noticeable at the present time. The durability, as
+well as the appearance of these mountings, depends upon the character
+of the leather used and the manner of putting it on. Calfskin, or very
+fine grained kip, are the only kinds of leather suited to covering
+mountings, but many of the cheaper grades are covered with sheepskin or
+thin split leather. Those conversant with working leather can readily
+understand the advantage arising from the use of thin, light stock,
+the work of putting on being reduced at least one half thereby. The
+inferior character of the work shows itself in a short time in the
+seams ripping or the leather cracking. Thick, firm leather requires
+more care in putting on and stitching, but it finishes much finer, and
+is more durable than the cheaper work.
+
+The manner of covering is very simple: the leather is first cut to
+the required shape; it is then soaked in water until it is soft and
+pliable, after which paste is applied, and the leather is worked around
+the metal by means of slicking sticks, and the edges joined by means of
+pinchers, or by placing the article in dies and pressing them together
+and allowing them to remain on until the leather is dry, after which
+the seam is stitched by hand or machine, the welt trued off, and the
+leather blacked and finished.
+
+The liability of the seam ripping has caused manufacturers to resort to
+different methods of putting on the leather and securing it; one method
+is the use of two seams on the edges in place of the one center seam so
+long in use; the advantage claimed for this method is the protection
+given to one side of the seam by the metal lining, and at the same time
+the article produced is more ornamental.
+
+Another plan is to dispense with the seam entirely on the outside;
+this is done by joining the edges of the leather on the inside of
+the ring, these being protected by the lining; imitations of the
+double and single seams are produced by casting them on the iron and
+working the leather down smooth to the outlines of the metal. The
+most recent improvement in making leather covered mountings is to draw
+the leather over the metal ring, which has previously been channeled,
+to allow for the full thickness of the leather, the rim on the edge
+forming a perfect protection to the leather; this style is known as
+the “Centennial,” an illustration of which will be found on page 263.
+Small leather covered harness buckles are more generally used than any
+others, the greater portion of these being imported from England, where
+they are produced at much lower prices than in America.
+
+The composition covered mountings are hard rubber and celluloid. The
+first was patented in 1866, by Ralph Dunham, of Connecticut, as a
+covering for harness buckles and rings; in 1867 Andrew Albright, of
+Newark, N. J., obtained a patent for covering harness and carriage
+mountings with rubber, these two patents being the first taken
+out—though early in the history of hard rubber, experiments were made
+in covering harness mountings, but the idea was abandoned; but since
+the two patents above mentioned were taken out great improvements have
+been made, and rubber mountings are an acknowledged success.
+
+The manufacture of these mountings, though not directly connected
+with the manufacture of harness, is interesting, and a description
+of the process will serve to give the reader a general idea of their
+peculiarities and merits. Every article is made with a metal core of
+about the same weight as that used for leather covered work. This
+core, or casting, is first cleaned up and made perfectly true by being
+struck up in a die; if any portion is to be plated, this is done, and
+the article is then taken to the rubber room to be covered. The rubber
+used is of the best Para gum, mixed in the proportion of two parts of
+gum to one part of pulverized sulphur; it is furnished in long sheets,
+varying from one to four lines French measure in thickness, and is
+kept rolled up in enameled cloth. Sheets of the rubber are laid out on
+a table and cut to such shapes as are needed for each article to be
+covered. The various pieces are then laid out on a piece of enameled
+cloth and saturated with benzine, covered up, and allowed to remain
+in this condition overnight, by which time the rubber becomes sticky;
+it is then wrapped around the metal body, care being taken to exclude
+air and to firmly weld the edges; after covering, the plated parts,
+if there be any, are covered with tin foil, when they are ready to be
+vulcanized; to do this the goods are either placed in moulds, buried
+in soapstone, or hung in an open pan. The vulcanator is a large tube
+made of boiler iron, and sufficiently strong to sustain a very heavy
+pressure of steam. After the goods are in the vulcanator, the door
+is closed and packed tight and the steam let on; if the goods are in
+pans and are to be cured by “open steam,” they are subjected to a
+heat of 20 degrees for one hour; 10 additional degrees are gradually
+added each hour, until 65 degrees are reached (where the goods are
+in soapstone, the heat is raised to 65 degrees at the start). After
+having been subjected to this heat for the proper length of time, the
+goods are removed, and all small articles, such as buckles, rings,
+etc., are thrown into a tumbling barrel and tumbled with charcoal and
+water until the rough edges are removed; they are then placed into a
+steam box and heated; each article is then placed into steel dies and
+pressed by powerful hydraulic presses; this sets the rubber, forms a
+true finish, and sets a row of imitation stitches; the smaller articles
+are again tumbled for a short time, when they are ready to be finished.
+Large articles have to be trued up by hand, then cleaned on the ash
+wheel, from which they are taken to the buff wheels; the first is used
+with rotten stone, the second is dry; having passed through these, the
+articles have a fine polish and a jet black color, after which they
+are lined and plated, and made ready for the market. Up to the present
+time these goods have never been made anywhere but in this country.
+They have a fine finish and are very durable, and will, without doubt,
+eventually become popular wherever harness is used.
+
+Celluloid mountings are of recent origin, and are made only in this
+country. The composition is a chemical compound which closely resembles
+amber; it can be colored any desirable shade, and does not fade through
+use. These mountings, like those of rubber, have a metal core coated
+with the composition. The process of manufacture is interesting. The
+castings are first trued up; they are then taken to the stuffer to be
+coated; they are then placed into moulds, or “stuffing dies.” These are
+made of metal. The recess for the casting is provided with a number
+of small iron pins, upon which the castings rest. The arrangement of
+the moulds is precisely the same as that for casting metal. After the
+castings are placed into position, the moulds are closed up and placed
+into a recess at the foot of the stuffing cylinder. The latter is
+nearly filled with celluloid, and heated up to 190 degrees. After the
+die is secured in its place, a plunger, which is worked by hydraulic
+pressure, descends upon the hot gum and forces it into the dies in
+sufficient quantities to completely fill the moulds and cover the
+metal cores. The die is then removed, and in a few minutes emptied of
+its contents, and again made ready for stuffing. After being stuffed,
+the goods are removed to a drying room heated by steam, and allowed
+to season. They are then taken to the hydraulic forming presses; the
+mountings are put into highly polished steel dies, and submitted to a
+fifty-ton pressure, which renders the material compact and produces
+a finely finished surface, after which they are lined, plated, and
+finished up ready for delivery.
+
+Black is the predominating color, but a very handsome imitation of
+russet, as well as a good flesh color, has also been produced. As there
+is no difficulty in securing any color, the production of other shades
+than those mentioned depends upon the demand.
+
+Celluloid martingale rings are a new article of manufacture. These
+closely resemble ivory in appearance, are much stronger, and are sold
+at lower prices than the latter. They are made of solid gum, which,
+after being colored, runs out into tubes of the required size. These
+are cut up into rings and thoroughly seasoned, after which they are
+taken to automatic lathes and turned up. They are then polished, and
+packed ready for shipping.
+
+Tinned mountings, or, as they are known by the trade, “XC plate,” are
+among the cheapest lines of goods. The metal castings are thoroughly
+cleaned, and then dipped into molten tin. The quality of the deposit
+depends entirely upon the skill and care of the workman.
+
+Japanned mountings are those covered with a coat of black varnish which
+is solidified by heat. These are plain, and, if properly made, quite
+durable. They are, however, so well known that no extended description
+is necessary.
+
+The various illustrations of mountings in this chapter represent the
+popular styles now in the market, some of which are made by the general
+trade, while others are patented either as designs or as new articles
+of manufacture. The “Grant,” “Bismarck,” and “Arlington” are patented
+as designs; the “Double Seam,” as a design and a new article of
+manufacture. This was fully described in connection with other leather
+covered mountings. The “Imperial” is patented as a design. This is
+made of composition metal, either white or yellow, and lined with hard
+rubber, the latter being turned up and finished off flush with the
+outside, leaving a narrow black edge with a metallic band center. This
+pattern is not lined, the wear coming direct upon the rubber, which,
+owing to its hardness, will wear longer than metal linings. One pattern
+of the ball wire mounting is also patented. The wire of this is covered
+with rubber and finished perfectly plain, while the ball and base are
+plated.
+
+The “Centennial” is another patented mounting. This is made of metal
+cast with a recess upon the outside of the band, into which leather
+is worked while wet; the ends, firmly secured at the post, are an
+imitation seam pricked in on both edges. The appearance of this is
+exactly the reverse of the “Imperial.” The center is black, and the
+lining, edges, and head are of metal.
+
+The illustrations of post, pad, and bolt hooks and head terrets give a
+general idea of these articles, though not representing all the styles.
+All the popular patterns of terrets have hooks and fly terrets to
+match; and in ordering, the harness maker or dealer can always procure
+them in sets or by the package.
+
+[Illustration: Imperial.]
+
+[Illustration: Centennial.]
+
+[Illustration: Grant.]
+
+[Illustration: Ball Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Plain Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Bismarck.]
+
+[Illustration: Arlington.]
+
+[Illustration: Double Seam.]
+
+[Illustration: Oval.]
+
+[Illustration: Band.]
+
+[Illustration: Band. Arlington.]
+
+[Illustration: Oval. Ball Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Centennial. Grant.]
+
+[Illustration: Wire Ball. Acorn.]
+
+[Illustration: Band Fly Hook. Oval Fly Hook.]
+
+[Illustration: Wire Ball. Plain Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Ball Wire, Fly. Oval Post Hook.]
+
+[Illustration: Band C Hook. Oval C Hook.]
+
+[Illustration: Oval Fly Bolt Hook. Band Post Hook.]
+
+[Illustration: Wire. Oval Pad Hook.]
+
+[Illustration: Band. Oval Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Flat Top. Scroll Duck Bill.]
+
+[Illustration: Oval. Plain Duck Bill.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+BUCKLES.
+
+
+The great variety of harness buckles in the market enables the harness
+manufacturer to procure those suited to every pattern of mounting. The
+illustrations in this chapter represent patterns suited to general
+use. In addition to these, buckles are made to match every style of
+mounting. An extended description is not necessary. The “Sensible” is
+one of the best in the market, owing to the form of the under side.
+It does not bend the strap as much as other patterns; it can be used
+with oval, “Grant,” and band mountings. The “Victoria” and “Vermont”
+match well with the same patterns of mountings. The band, “Bonner,”
+and “Square Philadelphia” are used with flat band patterns, the “West
+End” and other wire buckles with wire and oval terrets. Trace and
+collar buckles are made in as great variety as the smaller harness, the
+patterns being similar, but the center bar is used but little except as
+a trace buckle.
+
+A buckle peculiar to this country—one in which the trace lies perfectly
+flat and is easily adjusted—is known as the “wedge tongue.” This was
+the invention of Mr. Coles. Improvements were made by various persons,
+until at the present time there are several varieties operating much
+the same as, and bearing a close resemblance to, the original. The
+“Coles,” Fig. 1, represents the original after having been so modified
+as to make it practical. The “Coles,” Fig. 2, represents the latest
+improvement in the way of a spring, which prevents the wedge getting
+out of place when the trace is not drawn up tight. The peculiarity of
+this buckle is in the wedge. This is provided with a tongue or spur on
+the under side, which sets into a hole in the trace and takes the place
+of the ordinary tongue; when the trace is drawn up, the wedge bears
+against the cross bar and holds the spur in position, and at the same
+time produces a pressure which relieves the strap at the hole of much
+of the strain which would otherwise be put upon it.
+
+Fig. 3 shows the “Kinne.” This, when in position, bears a close
+resemblance to the “Cole,” but it operates somewhat differently. The
+cross bar is loose and the bearings upon the pier plate press against
+it, producing the same result as the wedge.
+
+Fig. 4 represents the “Kinne” without loops. This is used on single
+harness. These buckles are very strong, and are made in all sizes from
+1¼ to 2 inches.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
+
+[Illustration: Sensible. Vermont.]
+
+[Illustration: Victoria. Metropolitan.]
+
+[Illustration: Philadelphia. Union.]
+
+[Illustration: Square Philadelphia. Bonner.]
+
+[Illustration: Crescent. Band.]
+
+[Illustration: West End. Crown.]
+
+[Illustration: Wire. Horseshoe.]
+
+[Illustration: Square Roller. Barrel Roller.]
+
+[Illustration: Covered Ring. Wire Bridle. Covered Bridle.]
+
+[Illustration: Ribbon. Sensible.]
+
+[Illustration: Light Band. Covered Roller.]
+
+[Illustration: Band. Covered.]
+
+[Illustration: Imperial. Wire.]
+
+[Illustration: Band. Boston.]
+
+[Illustration: Arlington. City.]
+
+[Illustration: Band. Philadelphia.]
+
+[Illustration: Boston. Oval.]
+
+[Illustration: Square. Loop End.]
+
+[Illustration: Congress. Manhattan.]
+
+[Illustration: Perforated Loop. Sensible.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.
+
+
+BRIDLE BITS.
+
+The ingenuity of bit makers of all countries has been taxed to the
+utmost to produce bits suited to all horses, and many are the harsh and
+brutal devices introduced; but with the exception of the Mexican or
+Texan bit, very few of the harsh kinds are now in use. For this reason
+no attention will be paid to any but those suited to the general trade.
+The illustrations show a good variety, but they all come under the
+general classification of snaffle, ring, bradoon, or lever.
+
+The snaffle is frequently defined as a bit having a jointed mouth; this
+is incorrect, as the cheek piece alone decides the name, the mouth
+pieces being designated as stiff, jointed, post, chain, leather, hinge,
+etc. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two styles of snaffle. The first is the
+regular pattern; the second, the “Dexter;” both are made up with stiff
+as well as jointed mouths. The origin of the name is unknown; but when
+a bit maker receives an order for a “snaffle-bit,” he furnishes one
+with cheek pieces like that in Fig. 1, the ring and bars of which are
+of one piece; if a “Dexter” snaffle is ordered, it is like Fig. 2, the
+peculiarity of which is the shape of the mouth piece, it being large
+at the cheek and small at the joint.
+
+A ring bit is one having rings instead of rings and cheek pieces
+combined. The portion, however, which is surrounded by the head on the
+mouth piece is turned so as to give a straight bearing and provide two
+shoulders, which prevents the ring slipping through the hole in the
+heads of the mouth piece. The bradoon bit has a ring cheek, but the
+wire is of uniform thickness, and the ring is loose in the ends of
+the mouth piece. Lever, or gag, bits (as they are generally called)
+are made up in a variety of ornamental patterns, with stiff or loose
+cheeks. The “Hanoverian,” Fig. 3, is used more than any other pattern.
+For coach or coupé harness the “Buxton” is the most popular. This has a
+scroll cheek and a loose mouth, which slides up and down on a straight
+section of the cheek.
+
+Trotting snaffles are made in a variety of patterns, and as a rule with
+half cheeks. The “Dan Mace” is one of this class; the small loop on
+the cheek piece is used to secure a cross strap, thus connecting the
+two cheeks in such a manner that they act together when either rein
+is pulled. The “Ben Lane,” “Dexter,” and other half cheek bits are
+also provided with the loop. The various other patterns shown need no
+explanation.
+
+Bits are made of wrought-iron throughout, wrought mouth and malleable
+cheeks, or all malleable. The first are sometimes designated as steel
+bits; but this is a mere pretence, as steel is seldom used in their
+manufacture, fine iron being preferable. The wrought bit is the most
+expensive, but it is the only reliable kind, and no horse possessing
+any spirit should be driven with any other. Next to this is the
+wrought mouth and malleable cheek; and lastly, the all malleable, a
+bit which should never be used. Some are sufficiently strong, but the
+unreliability of malleable iron should condemn it for bits of any kind.
+
+A very convenient manner of numbering has been adopted by some bit
+manufacturers, by which a buyer can tell at a glance just what the
+article is. If a buyer orders a No. 1336, he would be furnished with
+a first quality ring bit with a ⁶/₁₆ inch mouth piece, having two 1½
+inch rings. Should the number be 1356, he would secure the same kind
+of bit with three inch rings; for a loose ring bit the first and last
+numbers would be the same, with 24 as the pattern number. Snaffles are
+designated by 52, and half cheek of the regular pattern by 53, and
+“Hanoverians” by 76. A first quality loose ring bit would be designated
+by No. 1246, a snaffle by 1526, a half cheek snaffle by 1536, and a
+“Hanoverian” by 1766, the first and last numbers being changed to
+designate quality and size. When used first, the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4,
+etc., represent the quality; the final numbers, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 give
+the size of the mouth pieces in sixteenths of an inch; the addition of
+the fraction ½ designates a jointed mouth.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1. Snaffle.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 3. Hanoverian.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 6. Ben Lane.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2. Dexter.]
+
+[Illustration: Half Check Dexter.]
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 5. Dan Mace.]
+
+[Illustration: Ring.]
+
+[Illustration: Check Bradoon.]
+
+Bits are finished in a variety of styles, as follows: “Polished,”
+those which are not plated, but are burnished up in the best manner;
+“nickel,” those plated with nickel; “all over silver-plated,” those in
+which the cheeks and ends of the mouth piece are plated; “half silver
+plated,” those having only the cheek pieces plated; “outside silver
+plated,” those in which the outsides of the cheek pieces are plated.
+Plating with other metals is designated in a similar manner.
+
+
+BITTING HARNESS.
+
+The two illustrations of bitting harness in this chapter represent the
+most complicated, though undoubtedly the best for this purpose, which
+are free to manufacturers in this country. There are several patented
+devices, but a description or illustration would be of no general
+value. Fig. 1 represents the plain wooden jockey, the saddle to which
+is made of iron padded with felt and covered with collar leather; the
+ends of the reins are of elastic web. The manner of attaching, style
+of halter, crupper strap, etc., are all well delineated and require
+no explanation. Fig. 2 represents an improved jockey of English
+manufacture; the arms of this are of gutta percha and whalebone instead
+of wood; the various straps are all provided with elastic ends, which,
+it is claimed, produces the desired result in a more humane manner than
+when the old style, as shown by Fig. 1, is used.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+Another style, bearing a close resemblance to Fig. 1, has steel springs
+attached to the back of the arms at the lower ends, to which the reins
+are attached; the wooden arms are provided with slots for the reins
+to pass through before being secured to the steel springs. The plain
+bitting harness, in which the cheeks, etc., are attached to a broad
+surcingle, needs no description.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+REPAIRING HARNESS.
+
+
+To repair harness well is quite as much of an art as to make up new
+stock, and, owing to the gradual spread of the custom of sending
+the harness to the shop instead of leaving the matter to stablemen
+when repairs are needed, the proper performance of the work is, in a
+business point of view, an absolute necessity. Repairing is something
+more than securing a ripped stitch, restoring a buckle, or splicing
+a strap; these the merest novice in the business can accomplish;
+but to repair properly requires skill, judgment, and experience.
+This is particularly the case at the present time, when new methods
+and directions are found in every agricultural journal, and not
+unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which, from the nature
+of the articles recommended, as well as from the crudeness of the
+instructions, are calculated to mislead.
+
+In repairing, two results are to be sought—one is the complete
+restoration of strength and form; the other, renovation and softening
+of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as
+nearly as possible what it was when first made. To do this, unbuckle
+and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather
+wherever it can be done without ripping; also from pads, gig saddles,
+and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed; then
+clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth
+edged scraper, and then washed with tepid water and crown soap; if
+the latter can not be had, use castile soap in its place (strong soap
+should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden
+it). Turpentine, benzine, etc., are often recommended for removing the
+surface grease and accumulated dirt; but nothing will more effectually
+destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost
+instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent,
+the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a
+little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous
+substances, without leaving injurious effects.
+
+After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black
+up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as
+though the harness were new; then with a stiff brush clean out whatever
+dirt may be in and around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating
+both sides of the strap in the same manner. This brushing is often
+omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface
+of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not
+interfere in any way with the penetration of the oil or grease into
+the pores of the leather or around the stitches.
+
+The harness now being cleaned and repaired, it is ready for oiling
+or greasing. There are two ways of doing this: the first, which is
+applicable to leather which has become hard, lost its color, and needs
+thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the
+leather appears red; then dampen each strap with a small quantity of
+tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface
+of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat’s-foot oil (the
+purer the oil the better); the oil penetrates the leather, the water
+having opened the pores, and it is quickly absorbed. Some authorities
+recommend castor oil in place of the neat’s-foot, but the latter
+is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to the leather some of its
+natural properties, and therefore better assimilates with the fibre.
+Castor oil, however, is an excellent article, and is only inferior
+to neat’s-foot or pure cod. It penetrates rapidly, softens well, and
+at the same time retains a firm hold; it will also last as long as
+neat’s-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body,
+it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of
+tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the
+fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which
+is, after all, the only real protection against the action of water.
+The tallow should be warmed sufficiently to allow of its being spread
+on with a brush, but it must not be hot. Apply it as soon as the oil
+has dried in, and brush well in order to assist it to enter the pores.
+Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow,
+allow them to remain in that condition for several hours; then rub
+them with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed from the
+surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired; but the
+latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is much
+worn and the color injured.
+
+The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather
+after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface
+moisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps
+to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward
+cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well
+for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the
+surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly,
+and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will
+soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant,
+tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle one.
+
+Tallow of itself will resist the action of water much longer than
+neat’s-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre
+as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails
+to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles
+are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and durability.
+Other greases may be used, but in none are the original qualities of
+the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended.
+
+When the leather presents a rusty appearance, but is not red, it should
+be blacked with hatters’ black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces
+of the extract of logwood and ½ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded
+fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can
+be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush.
+
+Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the
+atmosphere on the grease—the latter being drawn to the surface, where
+it becomes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating—or by the
+impurities in the oil used in currying the leather. In the latter case,
+in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on
+the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an
+ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100°,
+into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the
+smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid.
+
+Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use
+of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil,
+and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the
+surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or
+woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all
+the mountings possible without ripping the straps, and clean them
+before replacing.
+
+It requires some labor to thus clean, repair, and oil a harness, but
+these directions, if well followed, will secure a first-class job, and
+if the leather has not become bony and harsh from constant exposure, it
+will be to all appearances as good as new.
+
+For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that
+answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller & Co. It possesses
+the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the
+leather, and increasing its durability.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+CARE OF HARNESS IN FACTORY AND STABLE.
+
+
+The appearance and durability of harness to a great extent depends
+upon the treatment received after leaving the hands of the workman;
+yet a large percentage of manufacturers, as well as consumers, are
+very careless and negligent in protecting their goods from injury by
+the elements. Consumers, as a rule, are entirely unacquainted with
+the peculiarities of the stock used, and they can not, therefore,
+be expected to know how to guard it against various destructive
+influences, but the harness maker can not plead ignorance. Leather as
+received from the tanner does not possess the requisite qualifications
+for harness. These the currier supplies by the addition of oil and
+grease, together with the labor needed in preparing it, without which
+it would lack the suppleness and durability so necessary in this kind
+of stock. The preservation of the materials added by the currier,
+therefore, becomes an absolute necessity in order to prevent premature
+decay.
+
+Moisture is the great destroyer; it absorbs the grease, hardens the
+fibre, and renders the leather weak and brittle; it also causes the
+metal in the mountings to rust, weakening them, and adds another enemy
+to the leather. Grease only will resist the effects of moisture, and
+every effort should be made to keep the leather well supplied with this
+needed protector.
+
+Manufacturers often overlook the importance of caring for the harness
+in stock, and also of instructing their customers how to preserve
+it when in use. With some the idea is maintained, that ignorance on
+the part of the consumer, as regards the care of harness, accrues to
+the benefit of the manufacturer. This is a serious mistake. The most
+successful man is he who produces the most durable article, and it
+should be part of a manufacturer’s duty to instruct the buyer how to
+treat the article purchased. But all manufacturers do not understand
+this secret of their business, and a portion of this chapter therefore
+will be devoted to the care of stock in the warerooms.
+
+A certain amount of made up stock must be displayed, but there is no
+necessity for exposing more than one harness of a kind. Three months’
+exposure in a wareroom will injure a harness as much as three months
+of constant use, providing the user knows how to take care of it. In
+all instances leather strapping, if exposed at all, should be in glass
+cases impervious to dust and air; but no showcase can be made tight
+enough to fully exclude these elements.
+
+During a great part of the year the air at night is laden with
+moisture, and, not unfrequently, during the spring and fall months the
+atmosphere is humid and heavy; the moist air permeates every thing,
+and by its action upon the leather and mountings rapidly absorbs the
+life of the former and rusts or tarnishes the latter. The white mould
+which is often observed upon the leather is caused by the grease being
+drawn to the surface by moisture. After the surface is covered with
+this mould, the absorption of the grease continues in all kinds of
+weather until the cause is removed. The manufacturer therefore should
+remove it as quickly as possible by brushing it, and afterwards rubbing
+with a dry cloth, and finally with a greasy rag or “shammy;” then
+restore the polish with an old silk handkerchief. If the mountings are
+tarnished, clean them with a “shammy;” if this can not be done, remove
+them clean with a little rotten stone. Gilt mountings should not be
+exposed. Sample sets are convenient; but when these can not be had, the
+gilt should be protected by wrapping it in tissue paper.
+
+In hanging up the various parts of the harness, use forms, instead of
+pegs or hooks, except for traces or reins, which should always be hung
+out straight. Harness made up for stock should not be “gummed” and
+hung in cases, but, after being finished by the workman, all the plain
+leather should be covered with a thin coat of “daub” made of one part
+of neat’s-foot oil and two parts of tallow—the latter being thoroughly
+melted, after which the oil is poured in and the whole thoroughly
+stirred until cold;—this will feed the leather and prevent injury. The
+patent and fancy leather should be wrapped on soft paper, and every
+piece, whether of patent or plain leather, laid out straight and smooth
+in shallow drawers and covered with thick paper. Russet strapping of
+all kinds should be kept in dark cases or drawers, as the sunlight is
+sure to affect the color, the most exposed parts showing the greatest
+change.
+
+Harness makers who have made the care of harness a study have no
+difficulty in filling orders at a short notice. Their course is to make
+up traces, reins, turnbacks, docks, back-bands, and other straight
+strapping, and lay them away in grease as before directed. When a
+harness is ordered, all that is required is to make the other parts,
+finish up the necessary straight straps, attach the mountings, and
+put them together. In this way they are enabled to keep their workmen
+employed at all times, and obviate the necessity of hiring extra hands
+in the busy season. If the manufacturer delivers the harness to his
+customer in good order, he does all he is legally bound to do; but his
+moral obligation extends much farther—he should instruct the buyer how
+to preserve it. The following hints may serve to assist him in this
+direction:
+
+The harness room should always be as far from the horses as the size
+of the building will allow, as the gases arising from the stable are
+very injurious to the leather and mountings; it should be provided with
+forms for the bridles, pads, saddles, breechings, etc., and hooks for
+reins, hames, and traces. If a separate room can not be had for this
+purpose, closets should be provided.
+
+Harness are often quite wet when taken from the horse. When this is
+caused by rain, hang them up in some place where they can dry, and
+before putting them in the storeroom rub them well with a “shammy,”
+or wash-leather, then apply a little crown soap and rub with the
+hands until the polish is restored; clean off the under side of the
+straps as carefully as the outside. If wet by sweat, dry as quickly
+as possible after taking them from the horse, as by the saline nature
+of the perspiration the grease is rapidly absorbed and the leather
+hardened; if the pads are wet, dry them thoroughly before putting them
+in the storeroom. For oiling, during the first year, at least, crown
+soap, applied as directed above, is all that is requisite for coach
+or carriage harness, but for team and other heavy harness a stronger
+grease is required. Cleaning and oiling should be done as often as once
+a month on harness which is in daily use. If the leather is soft, wash
+it with water applied with a “shammy,” then wring the latter nearly
+dry, and rub the leather thoroughly, after which apply a good harness
+oil. When each strap has been treated in this way, commence with the
+one first washed, and remove all surplus grease with a rag, then rub
+with an old piece of silk until the polish is restored. If the leather
+is hard and dry, it will be necessary to wash the straps well and wet
+them enough to open the pores; lay the straps out straight, and, when
+surface dry apply a coat of neat’s-foot oil. When this has penetrated
+the leather, apply warm tallow with a brush, and allow the straps to
+remain coated with the tallow until the moisture has dried out of the
+leather, then with a rag remove all the surplus tallow, and clean the
+stitching with a stiff brush; then apply a coat of harness black.
+
+Cleaning mountings requires care, as they do not need to be scoured.
+Gold should never be rubbed with any thing harsher than the nap side of
+canton flannel; electro silver plate should also be cleaned carefully,
+as the plate is soft and the thin coating can be easily removed. Close
+plate silver will bear more scouring, but it is seldom necessary to
+do more than to rub it with a “shammy” darkened with tripoli and
+lampblack. If they are very much tarnished, they should be removed from
+the harness and washed in water and rubbed with tripoli. Brass is the
+most difficult metal to keep clean, but when rubbed each day the labor
+is materially decreased. In the chapter of recipes there are several
+directions for cleaning and polishing brass, any of which can be used
+to good advantage.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+LEATHER BLACKING—STAINS—VARNISHES AND POLISHES.
+
+
+VINEGAR BLACK.
+
+For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will
+at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in
+various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure
+shavings from an iron turner and cover them with pure cider vinegar;
+heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a
+cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for
+a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a
+long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain
+the hands.
+
+Another method is to cover iron scraps with sour beer, and allow them
+to stand for a month or more; then strain off the beer and bottle as
+before. A third method is to boil sulphate of iron in vinegar; mix some
+brewers’ yeast with beer and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours,
+then skim off the yeast and add the vinegar.
+
+
+LOGWOOD BLACK.
+
+Boil 1 pound of ground logwood, ½ pound of nut galls, and 1 ounce of
+verdigris in 1 gallon of water for two hours, then remove from the
+fire and allow it to stand until it is cold; strain off the liquor, and
+it will be ready for use.
+
+If to 1 pint of this mixture be added ¼ pound of white wax, ½ pound of
+brown sugar, and ½ pound of bone black rubbed smooth in turpentine, and
+the whole heated until thoroughly amalgamated, an excellent wax for
+finishing edges will be produced.
+
+Another logwood black is made by boiling a quantity of logwood bark in
+double its bulk of rain water for two or three hours, then straining
+off and adding ¼ of a pound of potash to 2 gallons of the liquor. This
+makes a good grain as well as edge black.
+
+
+HATTERS’ BLACK.
+
+This black is unequaled for finishing. It is made by dissolving 1 pound
+of extract of logwood, ½ ounce of bichromate of potash, and 1 ounce of
+copperas in 1 gallon of water.
+
+Another formula, differing from the first in the quantities, is to
+dissolve 1 pound of extract of logwood, 2 ounces of copperas, and 1½
+ounces of bichromate of potash in 1½ gallons of water.
+
+
+BALL BLACK.
+
+Melt together 8 ounces of beef suet, 2 ounces of neat’s-foot oil, 2
+ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of pulverized gum arabic; add 1 gill
+of turpentine, and a sufficient quantity of bone black to give the
+whole a good color; stir until thoroughly mixed, remove from the fire,
+continue to stir until cold, then roll into balls. To apply, warm the
+ball, rub it on the leather, and polish with a woolen cloth.
+
+English ball blacking for harness is composed of 1 ounce of lard, 1
+ounce of beeswax, 8 ounces of ivory black, 8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces
+of linseed oil, and 2 or 3 ounces of water.
+
+Another kind is made of 2 ounces of hog’s lard, 8 ounces of best
+neat’s-foot oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 10 ounces of ivory black, and
+8 ounces of water. Heat the whole to a boil, remove from the fire,
+stir until sufficiently cool, and form into balls about two inches in
+diameter.
+
+A third description is made of 2 ounces each of ivory black, copperas,
+and neat’s-foot oil, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 4 ounces of soft water,
+and 1 ounce of gum tragacanth; boil until the water has evaporated,
+stir until cold, then roll into balls or mould into cakes.
+
+A fourth is made of ½ pound of beeswax, 4 ounces of ivory black, 2
+ounces of Prussian blue, 2 ounces of spirits of turpentine, and 1 ounce
+of copal varnish; melt the wax, stir in the other ingredients, and,
+when cool, roll into balls.
+
+Still another famous harness and saddlery blacking is made of ¼ of an
+ounce of isinglass, ¼ of an ounce of indigo, 4 ounces of logwood, 2
+ounces of softsoap, 4 ounces of glue, and 1 pint of vinegar; the whole
+is warmed, mixed, strained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for use.
+
+
+LIQUID BLACK.
+
+Mix a quantity of bone black with equal parts of neat’s-foot oil and
+brown sugar, in proportions to produce a thick paste; thin with vinegar
+and sulphuric acid in proportions of three parts of the former to one
+of the latter.
+
+A second liquid black is made by mixing 3 ounces of ivory black with
+1 tablespoonful of lemon acid, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a small
+quantity of vinegar, afterward adding 1 ounce each of sulphuric and
+muriatic acid; mix the whole together, and add a sufficient quantity of
+vinegar to make 1 pint in all.
+
+
+LIEBIG’S BLACK.
+
+Mix bone black in half its weight of molasses and one eighth its weight
+of olive oil, to which add half its weight of hydrochloric acid and one
+fourth its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a sufficient quantity
+of water to produce a thin paste.
+
+
+PATENT HARNESS BLACK.
+
+Heat together, over a slow fire, 2 ounces of white wax and 3 ounces of
+turpentine; when the wax is dissolved add 1 ounce of ivory black and 1
+dram of indigo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed; stir the mixture until
+cold. Apply with a cloth, and polish with a shoe brush.
+
+
+WATERPROOF PASTE BLACKING.
+
+Melt together 4 ounces of black resin and 6 ounces of beeswax over a
+slow fire; when thoroughly dissolved, add 1 ounce of lampblack and ¼
+pound of finely powdered Prussian blue; stir the mixture well, and add
+sufficient turpentine to make a thin paste. Apply with a cloth, and
+polish with a brush.
+
+
+CROWN SOAP BLACK.
+
+Dissolve, over a slow fire, 1 pound of beeswax, 1 pound of crown soap,
+3 ounces of indigo, 4 ounces of ivory black, and ½ pint of oil of
+turpentine; as soon as dissolved remove from the fire, and stir until
+cold.
+
+
+FINISHING BLACK.
+
+Mix together ½ ounce each of gelatin and indigo, 8 ounces of extract of
+logwood, 2 ounces of crown soap, 8 ounces of softened glue, and 1 quart
+of vinegar; heat the whole over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly
+mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and polish with a woolen cloth.
+
+
+CORDOVA WAX.
+
+Mix together 1½ pints of red acid (chromic), 1 pint of beer, 1 gill of
+thick glue, 2 ounces of ivory black, and 1 dram of indigo; boil for
+half an hour, and apply with a sponge.
+
+
+GERMAN BLACKING.
+
+Soften 2 pounds of good glue, and melt it in an ordinary glue kettle;
+then dissolve 2 pounds of castile soap in warm water and pour it into
+the glue; stir until well mixed, and add ½ pound of yellow wax cut
+into small pieces; stir well until the wax is melted, then add ½ pint
+of neat’s-foot oil and enough lampblack to give the desired color. When
+thoroughly mixed, it is ready for use.
+
+
+ANILIN BLACK.
+
+Mix 1 dram of fine anilin black with 60 drops of concentrated
+hydrochloric acid and 1½ ounces of alcohol. This produces a deep blue
+liquid, which, when diluted with 1½ ounces of shellac dissolved in
+alcohol, will produce a beautiful black.
+
+
+BLACKING FOR RESTORING HARNESS.
+
+Mix 1 ounce of indigo, 1 pound of extract of logwood, 1 ounce of
+softened glue, and 8 ounces of crown soap (common softsoap can be used
+if the other kind can not be had) in 2 quarts of vinegar; place the
+mass over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a
+soft brush, and use a harder one for polishing.
+
+
+BLACKING FOR PATENT OR ENAMELED LEATHER.
+
+Mix together ½ pound each of ivory black, purified lampblack, and
+pulverized indigo, 3 ounces of dissolved gum arabic, 4 ounces of brown
+sugar, and ¼ ounce of glue dissolved in 1 pint of water; heat the whole
+to a boil over a slow fire, then remove and stir until cool, and roll
+into balls.
+
+
+BLACKING FOR RESTORING LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
+
+Melt 3 parts of white wax, then add 1 part gum copal, dissolved in
+linseed oil, and 1 part of ivory black; allow the mass to boil for five
+minutes, remove it from the fire and stir until cool, then roll it up
+into balls.
+
+
+BLACKING FOR THE FLESH SIDE.
+
+Mix together 1 pound of prime lampblack and 12 pounds of pure
+neat’s-foot oil; melt 6 pounds of good tallow, and add it while hot to
+the lampblack and oil. Mix it well, and when cold it will be fit for
+use.
+
+
+ANOTHER.
+
+To 1½ pounds of lampblack add 1 gallon of pure neat’s-foot oil and 1
+quart of vinegar black; allow it to stand 24 hours, and it will be
+ready for use.
+
+
+STAINS.
+
+The use of russet and brown leather for reins, etc., necessitates the
+employment of stains of various shades in the workshop, in order that
+the reins or other straps may be of a uniform color after being worked.
+In most cases rein leather is stained by the currier, but when worked,
+the freshly cut edges, etc., need to be stained to correspond with
+the grain. The stains used are generally made of Spanish saffron and
+anotta, or of saffron alone, made up in various ways, the most common
+and reliable being the following:
+
+Boil a given amount of saffron in water until the color is extracted;
+cut a quantity of anotta in urine and mix the two together, the
+proportions of each determining the shade; the more anotta used the
+darker is the color.
+
+Another manner of preparing this stain is to boil ½ ounce of Spanish
+saffron and ¼ ounce of anotta in water until the dye is extracted, to
+which must be added some alcohol to set the color.
+
+To make a stain of saffron alone, boil a quantity in water until the
+dye is extracted; strain off, and, when cold, add alcohol in order
+to set the color. The shade may be changed by adding oxalic acid in
+varying quantities according to the color required. The proportions
+can not be given with any degree of accuracy, as the color is a matter
+of taste, and can be regulated by using greater or less proportions of
+each article.
+
+Another saffron stain is made by boiling saffron in a small quantity of
+water until the color is extracted, and reducing with urine.
+
+In using any of these stains, apply them with a cloth, and, when nearly
+dry, rub with a woolen rag slightly waxed.
+
+A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water; the
+shade may be darkened by the addition of a small quantity of powdered
+Brazilwood boiled with the berries.
+
+Another yellowish red stain is made of Brazilwood and yellow berries
+in proportion to suit, boiling them in water until the coloring matter
+is extracted. This can be applied to sides that have not been stained,
+when intended for flat reins, halters, etc., in the following manner:
+
+Lay the leather upon a table, and rub the flesh side with a warm
+stretching iron; turn it over and moisten the grain side with water,
+and rub with a copper stretching iron until the leather is nearly dry;
+then apply the coloring matter to the grain, and rub with a copper
+slicker. When the leather is perfectly dry, rub the grain with a glass
+slicker. An edge stain is made by adding a small quantity of alum to
+the above mentioned ingredients.
+
+A brown stain is made by boiling equal parts of pine and alder barks
+in six times their bulk of water until all the coloring matter is
+extracted, and when cold adding a small quantity of alcohol. Saffron
+boiled for twelve or fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to which
+alcohol must be added to make it set.
+
+Picric acid and water, in proportions of 1 to 10, heated to a blood
+heat, makes a good yellow stain. Wold boiled in water also makes a
+yellow stain.
+
+An orange yellow is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water.
+This stain may be converted into a rich brown by washing the leather
+to which it has been applied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an
+alkali.
+
+A red stain is produced by boiling Brazilwood in lye. If mixed with
+wold, it produces a brownish yellow, well adapted for use on halters
+and bridles.
+
+An edge stain for russet leather is made by cutting 4 ounces of anotta
+in 2 quarts of urine, allowing it to stand for twenty-four hours, then
+adding 3 quarts of water and boiling until reduced to one half the
+original quantity.
+
+All stains appear to better advantage and are rendered more durable by
+being covered with a little shellac varnish, which should be applied
+after the reins are all dry, and then finished up as previously
+directed. The shellac should be applied with a sponge.
+
+A bright orange stain is made by mixing yellow anilin with alum water.
+
+One ounce of oxalic acid, 1 ounce of spirits of salts, 1 scruple of
+bruised cochineal, and 1 pint of boiling water makes a good brown stain.
+
+Another red stain is made by dissolving 1 ounce of cochineal in ½ pint
+of hot water, and adding 1 gill of spirits of hartshorn.
+
+A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts and a decoction of
+cochineal.
+
+
+VARNISHES.
+
+
+SHELLAC VARNISH.
+
+Dissolve 6 parts of shellac in alcohol using no more of the latter than
+is absolutely necessary to dissolve the gum, and mix it with 3 parts of
+Venetian turpentine, heating the whole until the mixture is complete;
+when cool, add ½ part of fine bone black and ½ part of oil of lavender
+(all the parts by weight). Mix the mass in a druggist’s mortar, and
+rub smooth; then add turpentine enough to reduce it to the proper
+consistency.
+
+
+ELASTIC VARNISH.
+
+Dissolve ½ pound of gum caoutchouc in ether, and when thoroughly cut,
+add ½ pound each of linseed oil and spirits of turpentine; boil over a
+slow fire until the mixture becomes clear, strain it, and when cold it
+is ready for use. To harden it and make it dry quicker, use one half
+the quantity of gum caoutchouc, and substitute the best gum copal for
+the remainder.
+
+
+GERMAN LEATHER VARNISH.
+
+Pulverize a quantity of the best copal gum, and add enough turpentine
+to moisten it; place it in a glazed vessel, and allow it to stand over
+a moderate fire until the gum is thoroughly dissolved, which will
+require about ten hours. Next take double the quantity of linseed oil
+that there is of the gum and turpentine combined, and heat it; when
+nearly to a boil, pour in the dissolved gum, and allow it to remain
+over the fire until it has reached as high a degree of temperature
+as it will bear with safety, stirring it all the while; then remove
+from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, thin with spirits of
+turpentine until the proper consistency is reached, strain through
+a fine cloth, bottle it, and set it in the sun to ripen. This is an
+excellent varnish for horse collars. If used upon those that have lost
+their color, a little bone black should be added.
+
+
+LACK VARNISH BALLS.
+
+Melt together 2 ounces of white wax and 6 ounces of beef tallow; add
+½ pint of turpentine, 8 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian
+blue ground in linseed oil, and allow the mass to boil for about five
+minutes; then remove it from the fire and add 4 ounces of shellac
+varnish, stir the mass until cool, and roll into balls.
+
+
+BLACK VARNISH.
+
+Pulverize and mix together 1½ parts of mastic, 2½ parts of shellac, 2½
+parts of dragon’s blood, and 2 parts of the best bone black; heat 1½
+parts of turpentine and 10 parts of alcohol, pour them over the gums,
+place the whole over a moderate fire, and boil until the latter are
+thoroughly dissolved.
+
+
+WATERPROOF VARNISH.
+
+Pulverize 1 pound of shellac, and put it into a bottle with a
+sufficient quantity of alcohol to cover the gum; cork the bottle
+tightly, and keep it in a warm place until the gum is dissolved. To
+a quart of the liquid add 1 ounce of ivory black and ½ ounce of gum
+camphor dissolved in alcohol. Apply with a varnish brush. If too thick
+to work well, thin with alcohol.
+
+
+BLACK VARNISH FOR JAPANNED WORK.
+
+Dissolve 2 pounds of asphaltum in 1 pint of boiled linseed oil; heat
+in an iron pot until thoroughly fused, then remove from the fire, and,
+when cooled off a little, add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, and
+stir until cold. Apply with a brush. This makes an excellent japan for
+retouching japanned mountings, seats, etc., that have been injured by
+the japan scaling off.
+
+
+CHEAP SHELLAC VARNISH.
+
+Dissolve asphaltum in turpentine, using no more of the latter than is
+absolutely necessary; add a small quantity of bone black and enough
+shellac varnish to reduce it so that it can be applied with a brush.
+Spread it very thinly.
+
+
+ELASTIC VARNISH.
+
+Equal parts of gum caoutchouc and copal, the former dissolved in ether,
+heated in a vessel until thoroughly dissolved, with enough linseed
+oil added while hot to reduce it to the proper consistency, makes an
+elastic varnish well suited for finishing collars.
+
+
+POLISHES.
+
+
+FRENCH POLISH.
+
+Beat 5 pounds of stearin out into thin sheets with a wooden mallet,
+and mix with 7 pounds of oil of turpentine, after which subject the
+mass to a water bath, and heat up; when hot, add ½ ounce of ivory or
+bone black, stirring well to prevent crystallization. To cool it off,
+it should be emptied into another vessel and stirred until cold. To
+use, warm it until it is reduced to a liquid state, and apply in small
+quantities with a cloth; afterward rub it well with a piece of silk or
+linen cloth to bring up the polish.
+
+
+POLISH FOR PATENT LEATHER.
+
+Mix together the whites of two eggs, 1 teaspoonful of spirits of wine,
+1 ounce of sugar, and as much finely pulverized ivory black as may be
+required to produce the necessary shade of black. Apply with a sponge,
+and polish with a piece of silk.
+
+
+WAX POLISH.
+
+Melt together 1 pound of white wax, 1 pound of crown soap, 5 ounces of
+ivory black, 1 ounce of indigo, and ½ pint of nut oil; dissolve over a
+slow fire, stir until cool, and turn into small moulds.
+
+
+LIQUID POLISH.
+
+Melt 2 pounds of wax, and add ¼ pound of washed and well dried litharge
+by screening it through a fine sieve; then add 6 ounces of ivory black,
+and stir until cool, but not cold; add enough turpentine to reduce it
+to a thin paste, after which add a little birch or other essential oil
+to prevent it from souring.
+
+
+GERMAN LEATHER POLISH.
+
+Soften 1 part of white glue in water, add 3 parts of crown soap, and
+heat the whole over a slow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved;
+moisten 3 parts of bone black with vinegar, and mix it with 1 part of
+wheat starch beat smooth in cold water; mix the whole, and allow it to
+stand over a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it all the time, then
+turn it into another kettle and stir until it is cold. To use, dissolve
+a small quantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply with a brush,
+spreading it as thinly as possible.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR THE WORKSHOP AND HARNESS ROOM.
+
+
+TO CLEAN MOULDY LEATHERS.
+
+Remove the surface mould with a dry cloth, and with another cloth apply
+pyroligneous acid. Leather that has been badly moulded can be restored
+in this way.
+
+
+TO PROTECT HARNESS FROM RATS.
+
+Apply a plentiful coat of castor oil. If the harness is to be used,
+add tallow in the proportions of about one third of the latter to two
+thirds oil.
+
+
+WATERPROOF OIL.
+
+Take of lard oil 100 parts, paraffin 50 parts, beeswax 5 parts; heat
+the oil over a slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and wax; allow
+the whole to remain over the fire until the latter articles are melted,
+and add a few drops of oil of sassafras or other essential oil to
+preserve it.
+
+
+CROWN SOAP.
+
+This soap, so much used by stablemen for cleaning harness, is made of
+whale or cod oil, lye of potassa, and a small quantity of tallow. The
+oil gives to the soap a dark brown color, the tallow forming white
+granulations. This is simply the Scotch softsoap; it can be produced at
+a price far below that asked for the imported article.
+
+
+BELGIUM BURNISHING POWDER.
+
+Mix together ½ pound of fine chalk, 3 ounces of pipe clay, 2 ounces of
+dry white lead, ¾ of an ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and ¾ of an
+ounce of rouge.
+
+
+POWDER FOR CLEANING SILVER.
+
+Mix together 1 ounce of fine chalk, 2 ounces of cream of tartar, 1
+ounce of rotten stone, 1 ounce of red lead, and ½ ounce of alum, and
+pulverize thoroughly in a mortar. Wet the mixture and rub it on the
+silver, and, when dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean with a
+small brush.
+
+
+POWDER FOR CLEANING BRASS MOUNTINGS.
+
+Make a paste of equal parts of sulphur and chalk, with sufficient
+vinegar to reduce it to the proper consistency. Apply it to the metal
+while moist, allow it to dry on, and rub with chamois skin. For
+ornaments or engraved work, clean with a brush.
+
+Another process, and one that gives to the brass a very brilliant
+color, is to make a wash of alum boiled in strong lye, in the
+proportion of 1 ounce of alum to 1 pint of the latter. Wash the brass
+with this mixture, and afterward rub with shammy and tripoli.
+
+A weak solution of ammonia in water makes an excellent wash for
+cleaning tarnished silver plate. Apply it with a rag, dry with a piece
+of shammy, and afterward rub with a piece of shammy and a very small
+quantity of jewelers’ rouge.
+
+
+PREPARED CHALK.
+
+Pulverize chalk thoroughly, and mix with distilled water in the
+proportion of 2 pounds to the gallon; stir well, and then allow it to
+stand about two minutes, during which time the gritty matter will have
+settled to the bottom; then pour the chalky water into another vessel,
+being careful not to disturb the sediment, and allow the fine chalk to
+settle to the bottom; pour off the water, and place the chalk in a warm
+oven to dry. This is an excellent powder for restoring silver, and it
+is also useful as a base for other polishing powders.
+
+Spanish whiting treated in the same manner, with a small quantity of
+jewelers’ rouge added, makes a powder that is a little sharper than the
+prepared chalk, and which is well adapted to cleaning polished steel
+articles.
+
+A third powder, and one that is still sharper than either of the above,
+is made of rotten stone treated in the same manner as the chalk. The
+addition of bone black to any of these powders will prevent their
+discoloring the leather.
+
+
+TO PREVENT STEEL BITS FROM RUSTING.
+
+Polished steel bits, chains, etc., whether in packages or in showcases,
+may be preserved from rust by dusting them over with quicklime.
+Those in use should be placed in a box nearly filled with thoroughly
+pulverized slaked lime immediately after being removed from the horse.
+The lime absorbs the moisture, and thus prevents rust. Before using,
+rub well with a woolen cloth. Polished steel, when covered with red
+rust, may be cleaned as follows: Cover the article with oil, and rub it
+with a woolen cloth to remove the lighter portion of the rust, after
+which apply another coat of oil, and allow it to remain undisturbed for
+two or three hours, then clean off with whiting and a woolen cloth. If
+the rust has been upon the steel sufficiently long to have eaten into
+the metal, the surface can be restored only by the use of the emery
+belt or wheel.
+
+
+TO CLEAN RUBBER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
+
+Rub the covered as well as the metallic parts with a shammy and a
+little tripoli, and finish with a clean woolen cloth.
+
+
+TO CLEAN RUSSET LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.
+
+Remove all stains and dirt by rubbing the leather with a cloth and a
+little oxalic acid, and restore the color and finish by the use of
+salts of lemon, applied with a woolen cloth. Rub the leather until a
+good polish is produced.
+
+
+VARNISH FOR COLLARS.
+
+Digest shellac 12 parts, white turpentine 5 parts, gum sandarac 2
+parts, lampblack 1 part, spirits of turpentine and alcohol each 40
+parts.
+
+
+TO CLEAN CELLULOID COVERED MOUNTINGS.
+
+Rub the covered parts with a woolen cloth and a little tripoli, and
+polish with a clean woolen rag.
+
+
+POLISHING LIQUID FOR OROIDE OR BRASS.
+
+Place 2 ounces of sulphuric acid in an earthen vessel, and add 1 quart
+of cold soft water; after the heat that is generated has passed off,
+add 1 ounce each of tripoli and jewelers’ rouge. When well mixed, put
+in a bottle for use.
+
+
+TO CLEAN GILT MOUNTINGS.
+
+Gilt mountings unless carefully cleaned soon lose their lustre. They
+should not be rubbed; if slightly tarnished, wipe them off with a piece
+of canton flannel, or, what is better, remove them from the harness and
+wash in a solution of ½ ounce of borax in 1 pound of water, and dry
+them with a soft linen rag. Their lustre may be improved by heating
+them a little and rubbing with a piece of canton flannel or a soft
+polishing brush.
+
+
+TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES.
+
+If much soiled, wash the leather with a weak solution of oxalic acid
+and water, and, when dry, with the watery portion of beef blood. The
+latter can be preserved by adding a little carbolic acid, and keeping
+it in a bottle tightly corked.
+
+
+TO CLEAN STEEL BITS.
+
+Steel bits that are tarnished, but not rusty, can be cleaned with
+rotten stone, common hard soap, and a woolen cloth.
+
+
+TO FINISH THE EDGES OF RUSSET REINS.
+
+Use salts of tartar and water. If discolored, first remove the stain
+with a weak solution of oxalic acid.
+
+
+TO CLEAN BROWN RIDING SADDLES.
+
+Saddles may be cleaned to look as well as new by the use of tepid water
+and crown soap; if the latter can not be had, use pure castile soap.
+
+
+TO STAIN REIN LEATHER.
+
+A rich permanent brown can be imparted to rein leather by treating
+the hides, after they are tanned, to a bath in a liquor made from
+equal parts of pine and alder bark. The hides are spread in a vat,
+with liquor enough to cover them, where they are allowed to remain
+one week; they are then removed, and fresh liquor is applied; by
+repeating this treatment three or four times, a very rich brown can be
+produced. Orange brown is produced by scraping the flesh side after
+the hides have been removed from the vats for the last time, and
+sprinkling them on the scraped side with pulverized alum. As soon as
+each one is sprinkled with the alum, it is laid in another vat, one
+upon the other, and allowed to remain twenty-four hours; they are then
+moistened with the alum liquor in the bottom of the vat, and laid upon
+the beam and well worked, after which they are rubbed with salt and
+alum, and rolled up and allowed to remain undisturbed for twenty-four
+hours; this salting is repeated three times, after which the hides are
+stretched lengthwise and dried; they are then boarded and worked soft,
+and treated to a coat of hog’s lard and train oil on the flesh side;
+in about two days they are again boarded, and worked off with a glass
+slicker. This leather has a fine grain, and retains its softness for a
+long time.
+
+
+SMEARY GREASE FOR RUSSET LEATHER.
+
+Mix together 1 part of palm oil and 3 parts of common soap, and heat
+up to 100°; then add 4 parts of oleic acid and 1¾ parts of tanning
+solution containing at least ¹/₁₆ part tannic acid (all parts by
+weight), and stir until cold. This is recommended as a valuable grease
+for russet leather, and as a preventive of gumming.
+
+
+TO SEPARATE SIDES OF PATENT LEATHER.
+
+Patent and enameled leather will, if the glazed sides are placed
+together in warm weather, become stuck together, and, unless carefully
+separated, the leather will be spoiled. The simplest and best way to
+separate sides is to place them in a drying or other hot room; when
+hot, they can be taken apart without injury to the glazed or enameled
+surface. If a drying room is not accessible, lay the sides on a tin
+roof on a hot day, and they will soon become heated sufficiently to
+allow their being separated without injury. Any attempt to separate
+without heating to a high degree will prove a failure.
+
+
+TO CURRY RUSSET LEATHER.
+
+The hide to be curried is placed upon a table, and a warm iron is
+rubbed over the flesh side; it is then turned over, and the grain side
+is moistened with water and rubbed with a copper slicker until it is
+nearly dry, after which coloring matter, made of Brazilwood and yellow
+berries, is applied to the grain, and it is once more rubbed with the
+slicker; it is then spread out to dry, and the final finish is given by
+rubbing the grain with a glass slicker. This produces a very fine grade
+of leather for riding bridles, russet reins, etc.
+
+
+TO COLOR EDGES OF SADDLE FLAPS.
+
+Use a strong solution of soda, apply it to the freshly cut edges, and,
+when nearly dry, rub with a woolen rag until a good polish is produced.
+
+
+HARNESS OIL.
+
+An excellent oil for team and farm harness is made of beef tallow and
+neat’s-foot oil, as follows: Melt 3 pounds of pure tallow, but do not
+heat it up to a boil; then pour in gradually 1 pound of neat’s-foot
+oil, and stir until the mass is cold; if properly stirred, the two
+articles will become thoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will be
+smooth and soft; if not well stirred, the tallow will granulate and
+show fine white specks when cold. The addition of a little bone black
+will improve this oil for general use.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+               B
+                               PAGE
+    Belgium Burnishing Powder, 318
+    Bitting Harness, 288
+    Bits, 281
+    Buckles, 271
+    Buying Leather, 37
+
+               C
+    Care of Harness, 206
+    Celluloid Mountings, to Clean, 321
+    Cleaning Brass, 318
+    Coach and Wagon Bridles, 181
+    Coloring Edges, 325
+    Crown Soap, 317
+    Currying Russet Leather, 324
+    Cutting Harness, 45
+    Cuttings for Harness, 64-104
+      Adjustable Tree, 94
+      Bitting, 100
+      Breast Collar, Single, 68
+      Cart, 102
+      Double Road, 74
+      English Four-in-hand, 80
+      Express, 84
+      Express, Heavy, 80
+      Hame Collar, 70
+      Heavy Coupé, 72
+      Long Tug Coach, 78
+      Long Tug Farm, 90
+      Long Tug Team, 83
+      Mule, 103
+      Pennsylvania Wagon, 96
+      Road, Single, 66
+      Short Tug Coach, 76
+      Short Tug Butt Chain, 104
+      Stage, 98
+      Tandem, 82
+      Track, 64
+      Wagon, 92
+
+               G
+    Gilt Mountings, to Clean, 321
+    Grease for Russet Leather, 323
+
+               H
+    Halters, 205
+    Harness Leather, 21
+    Harness Loops, 161
+    Harness Mountings, 249
+    Harness Oil, 325
+    Horse Boots, 224
+
+               L
+    Leather, Blacking and Stains, 302
+      Black, Anilin, 307
+        Ball, 303
+        Crown Soap, 306
+        Finishing, 306
+        Flesh, 308
+        German, 306
+        Hatters’, 303
+        Leather Mountings, 308
+        Liebig’s, 305
+        Liquid, 305
+        Logwood, 302
+        Patent, 305
+        Patent Leather, 307
+        Restoring, 307
+        Vinegar, 302
+        Waterproof, 305
+      Stains, Brown, 310
+        Crimson, 311
+        Orange Yellow, 307
+        Red, 310
+        Yellow, 309
+        Yellow-Red, 309
+      Varnishes, Black, 313
+        Black Ball, 313
+        Collar, 321
+        Elastic, 312
+        German Leather, 312
+        Shellac, 311
+        Waterproof, 313
+      Polishes, French, 315
+        German, 316
+        Liquid, 315
+        Patent Leather, 315
+        Wax, 315
+
+               M
+    Making, Breast Collar Harness, 112
+      Gig Saddles, 139
+      Ornamented Truck Harness, 136
+      Pads, Coach, 149
+        Soft, 153
+        Plain Hard, 156
+        Plain, 159
+      Team Harness, 128
+      Truck Harness, 122
+    Measuring for Harness, 58
+    Miscellaneous Recipes, 317
+    Mouldy Leather, to Clean, 317
+
+               P
+    Patent Leather, 40
+    Patent Leather, to Separate, 324
+    Prepared Chalk, 319
+    Preparing Leather for the Fitter, 53
+    Prevent Steel from Rusting, 320
+    Polishing Liquid, 321
+    Polishing Powders, 318
+    Powder for Cleaning Silver, 318
+
+               R
+    Rein Leather, 322
+    Repairing Harness, 240
+    Riding Bridles, 197
+    Riding Saddles, to Clean, 322
+    Round Reins, 133
+    Rubber Covered Mountings, to Clean, 320
+    Russet Leather, 33
+    Russet Leather Mountings, to Clean, 320
+
+               S
+    Stitching Harness, 168
+
+               T
+    Trimmings, 105-111
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 ***
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+  </head>
+
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 ***</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="FRONTIS">
+    <p class="f120">GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="367" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<h1>THE HARNESS MAKERS’<br>ILLUSTRATED<br>MANUAL.</h1>
+
+<p class="f120 spb2">SECOND EDITION.</p>
+
+  <p class="center">A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS<br>
+                    OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC.,</p>
+
+  <p class="f90">CONTAINING</p>
+
+  <p class="center">DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING<br>
+                    LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR<br>
+                    CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD,<br>
+                    COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM<br>
+                    HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.;</p>
+  <p class="f110 spa1 spb1"><b>RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS,<br>
+                     AND LEATHER VARNISHES;</b></p>
+
+  <p class="center">HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS;</p>
+
+  <p class="f90">NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND<br>
+                 ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR<br>STYLES AND KINDS.</p>
+
+  <p class="f110">ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.</p>
+  <p class="f80">BY</p>
+  <p class="f110">W. N. FITZ-GERALD,</p>
+  <p class="center"><span class="smcap">New York</span>.<br>1880.</p>
+
+  <p class="center">Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880,<br>
+By <span class="smcap">Wm. N. Fitz-Gerald</span>,<br>
+in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span></p>
+<p class="f150"><b>CONTENTS.</b></p>
+</div>
+<hr class="r10">
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">HARNESS LEATHER.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr fs_80">PAGE</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="6">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER II.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">RUSSET LEATHER.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER III.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">PATENT LEATHER.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_40">40</a>
+                    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER IV.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CUTTING HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side to</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl"> the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER V.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER VI.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MEASURING FOR HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER VII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">TABLES OF LENGTHS.
+                     <span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="11">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy Express</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER VIII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A<br> BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System—</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="6">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER IX.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER X.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock—</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="8"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and fitting</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of proper</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Style—Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">cut—Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XI.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MAKING GIG SADDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Plain Pads, Directions for making</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_149">149</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XIII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed Loops,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press—Variety</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by their use</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_161">161</a>
+                     <span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XIV.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">STITCHING HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="5">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_168">168</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XV.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MAKING ROUND REINS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Rein Ends, illustrated</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XVI.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XVII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">RIDING BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_196">196</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XVIII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">HALTERS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_205">205</a>
+                     <span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XIX.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">HORSE BOOTS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="2">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Illustrations</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_224">224</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XX.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">HARNESS MOUNTINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="11">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Terrets, Hooks, etc.</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_249">249</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXI.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">BUCKLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Styles—Illustrations</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_271">271</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian—</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="4">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_281">281</a>
+                     <span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXIII.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">REPAIRING HARNESS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="6">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">—Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Lustre—How to clean</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_290">290</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXIV.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp" rowspan="6">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Daub, how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl"> duty to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">the Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_296">296</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXV.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">LEATHER BLACKING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_302">302</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_120" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>CHAPTER XXVI.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc" colspan="2">RECIPES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#Page_317">317</a></td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span></p>
+<p class="f150"><b>INDEX OF PLATES.</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr"><a href="#FRONTIS"><span class="ws4">Frontispiece.</span></a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr fs_80">PAGE</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Double Road Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_1">20</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Coupé Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_2">33</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Phaeton Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_3">53</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Coach Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_4">61</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast Collar, Single Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_5">113</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame Collar, Single Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_6">122</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Team Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_7">129</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Heavy Draft Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_8">137</a></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Georgia Wagon Harness</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp"><a href="#PLATE_9">161</a></td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span></p>
+<p class="f150"><b>PREFACE.</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a
+condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom,
+and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by
+the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how
+to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for
+lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for
+the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings,
+bits, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used
+by the trade, and guides for making up.</p>
+
+<p>In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of
+information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed
+form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have
+been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual
+indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every
+horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span>
+the only book of the kind published in the English language, and
+supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the
+subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The
+author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the
+instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated.
+Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation
+will be compensated for.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span></p>
+<p class="f150"><b>INTRODUCTION.</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral
+branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred
+and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report
+of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery
+and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all
+but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of
+$13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310;
+and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first
+in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen
+employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value
+of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio,
+Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order.</p>
+
+<p>By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the
+workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole
+country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860.</p>
+
+<p>There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span>
+establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view
+of this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The
+harness maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for
+7,145,370 horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785
+animals; yet the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head
+for each animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which
+explains, in part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it
+should be. Were it a business which required the investment of a large
+capital, the case would be different; but as it is, the investment
+of a few hundred dollars enables a man to engage in a small business
+which returns him a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if
+conducted in a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of
+absolute necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices
+below fair business rates. If each man in the business would properly
+estimate the cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage
+of profit, there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness
+of the harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed
+to give information of a practical character to the trade, which will
+enable those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic
+manner. If this end is accomplished, it will be one important step
+toward making the business a profitable and pleasant one.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_1" class="f120 spa2">DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="450" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="f150"><b>THE HARNESS MAKERS’<br> ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.</b></p>
+</div>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER I.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">HARNESS LEATHER.</span></h2>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Before</span> entering
+upon details respecting the practical work of the harness maker,
+I shall give some general directions regarding the various kinds
+of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and patterns of
+harness, together with such other details as may serve to assist the
+manufacturer in selecting his stock.</p>
+
+<p>The familiar adage, “There is nothing like leather,” is an old one, and
+it is true in more senses than one. In the first place, leather is an
+article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime
+in working it can not give any reliable rules by which an inexperienced
+person may judge to a certainty of its quality. The grain may be fine,
+close, and to the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side smooth, of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span>
+good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to
+condemn it as soon as it gets into the hands of the workman. On the
+other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned,
+and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from
+which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle,
+insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed
+to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through
+the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the
+shoulders thin and unfit for general use; all of which faults are of a
+serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch
+are so educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the
+most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual
+merits of the leather.</p>
+
+<p>There are, however, a few leading tests which assist in the acquiring
+of the needful experience. The character of the hide before it was
+tanned may be ascertained, in most cases, by close examination. It is a
+well-known fact that cattle raised in certain sections of the country
+produce much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the
+firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather,
+than those raised in other sections. If the hide has been taken from an
+old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span>
+the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the shoulders
+and hips thin and baggy; if from a young, well-kept animal, the grain
+will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side smooth
+and of a good color, and the whole side of nearly uniform thickness.
+Grub holes are a sure indication of poor hides, but, as they can be
+so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to avoid
+all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault, but
+it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and
+wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue: if the color is uniform
+throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance,
+instead of being covered with fine fibres, the tannage is good. If, on
+the other hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh
+and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through
+the center when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this
+light strip the poorer is the tannage.</p>
+
+<p>It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is
+injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults
+arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain
+may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to
+injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while giving it a
+deep black color, cause it to become hard and brittle. The best and
+most reliable test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow strip,
+flesh sides together, and close it down between the teeth; if the grain
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span>
+is hard and brittle, it will surely break off short, so as to show the
+natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather is
+extra heavy, this test will be likely to rupture the grain, whether the
+quality be good or bad; but if good, it will have the appearance of
+having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain
+has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly-cut
+edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be
+black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of
+impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very
+difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after
+the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the showcase,
+when the tell-tale gum-spots will appear on the surface, exposing the
+fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suffered much loss by
+the depreciation in the value of his harness. It sometimes happens
+that these gum-spots will appear upon the grain before the side has
+been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have
+directed in <a href="#Page_53">Chapter V.</a>, and future gumming
+will be prevented.</p>
+
+<p>These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned
+faults, but they can not be relied upon under all circumstances;
+frequent handling and close observation will alone give the eye and
+touch the training necessary for the intelligent selection of the
+different qualities. Good leather, in the language of one of the best
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span>
+known and most experienced men in the harness leather trade, should be
+“solid, but not hard; mellow, but not soft”—qualities that can not
+be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the
+requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather
+employed by harness makers—namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and
+hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All
+other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far
+the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer
+and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affected
+by water; it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more
+easily worked, and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to the
+production of good harness—strength and pliability—than any other
+tannage. Hemlock leather is harder; of a dark red color, which greatly
+interferes with its taking a good black, and also causes the latter
+to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements; the
+grain is more open and appears coarser; it wets up quickly, and does
+not dry out as soft as does oak leather; it is harder to stitch, and
+is inferior in strength, particularly when the strap is placed in a
+position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is
+also much heavier. A side of hemlock will weigh from eight to ten per
+cent more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness, a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span>
+difference that makes up for the margin in price between the two kinds.
+“Union” leather is either tanned with mixed oak and hemlock liquors, or
+first tanned with hemlock, and afterwards retanned with oak, the latter
+operation giving it a much lighter color than it originally possessed;
+in some cases the color on the flesh side being so light as to deceive
+the buyer who is unacquainted with this kind of leather. The grain is
+close and, as a rule, finer than either oak or hemlock, but for harness
+this leather is inferior to oak in every respect, and but a little
+better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as heavy as the latter, and possesses
+no qualities that recommend it to the buyer who desires good stock.</p>
+
+<p>In some sections of the country, hemlock leather is made with much
+care, the hides being closely selected, well tanned, and curried with
+the best oil and grease. Prepared in this manner, it gives satisfaction
+when not brought into direct competition with oak-tanned stock; but,
+no matter how much care may have been exercised, it is inferior to
+oak-tanned leather with which the same pains have been taken, and there
+is but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and
+that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock.</p>
+
+<p>The following general advice may be of value to harness makers and
+manufacturers of harness leather. Select hides of young steers or
+heifers which were in the best condition when killed: they only possess
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</span>
+the requisites of fineness of grain, uniformity of thickness, and
+strength of fibre. A cow or bullock hide is entirely unfitted for
+this kind of leather; the butt of the former is liable to be thick
+and the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and
+belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine
+it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These,
+though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be
+entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather
+is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes
+along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from
+cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether
+the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut,
+it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important
+consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect
+by the butcher having cut the animal’s throat from ear to ear, thus
+shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body.</p>
+
+<p>Tanning, though not a portion of the harness maker’s business, should
+be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between
+the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use
+because of its being tougher and more pliable; but even oak-tanned may
+not be good. There are two general methods of tanning: one the sole
+leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard; the other the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span>
+upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and tough. By the
+first method greater weight is secured, but the quality is unsuited to
+the use of the harness maker. Some tanners follow the former method in
+part, and thereby secure a greater weight, but they can not produce
+a good quality. This leather can be detected while working it by its
+hard, sole-leather-like character. It does not work well in rounds,
+or when being raised, and is more likely to break when subjected to a
+sudden strain.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to these features of tanning, there is what is known as
+the short-tanned, this leather coiling like a piece of tin, and when
+cut it shows a pale streak through the center. Then there is the limy
+leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper
+thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch and fall away to its
+natural substance. There is also the black-oak tannage. This leather
+shows a greenish-yellow appearance in spots upon the flesh side. It is
+soft, and possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned
+leather is too often injured in being curried; the use of poor oils and
+grease causes the “gum,” “spew,” or “fry,” as it is known in different
+localities; if properly curried with good oils, this pest of the
+harness maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will
+possess a surface free from roughness or wrinkles, and will be smooth
+and silky to the touch.</p>
+
+<p>The buyer, therefore, should insist upon the seller furnishing him with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span>
+hides such as have been recommended, reasonably free from scratches,
+warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage,
+and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection
+is not to be expected; the harness maker should aim to secure leather
+possessing the minimum of defects. Hard leather is sometimes made to
+feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier.
+The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the
+thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a
+poor purchase to the buyer.</p>
+
+<p>Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the
+selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for
+the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for
+which it is intended.</p>
+
+<p>So well is this understood by leading harness-manufacturers who make
+up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but
+select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for
+each particular strap; while the leading custom manufacturers purchase
+or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however,
+buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the
+error of not procuring a proper assortment. As a rule, they select the
+weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when
+lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing
+on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span>
+leather, besides materially weakening the straps thus manipulated, as
+the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part of
+the stock.</p>
+
+<p>If extra heavy straps are needed, three thicknesses of leather are
+used, which in most cases calls for the use of the splitting-machine
+to prevent overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead
+of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide
+themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds
+a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every
+requirement except the heaviest truck harness, which calls for the
+heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what
+kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen
+pounds and under can be cut to good advantage for this purpose. Traces,
+back-bands, and breeching-straps require heavier leather, and hides
+suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand.
+A few years’ experience will enable any man to determine the proper
+weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure
+assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight.</p>
+
+<p>Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is
+made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used
+should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen
+to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span>
+twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better adapted to
+this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in
+order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally
+fine and the fibre strong; it fits up well, retains its shape, and
+finishes smooth and soft.</p>
+
+<p>The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use
+for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting
+the back-bands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made
+from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds
+to the side for all but the bodies; these, being also single, should be
+of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under
+side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight
+should be used as for light road-harness.</p>
+
+<p>The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with
+single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is
+required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite
+firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen
+pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of
+single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter
+inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces,
+hold-backs, and back-bands.</p>
+
+<p>For light coach harness, the best weight is about eighteen pounds to
+a side; but if extra heavy traces are used, it is better to select
+leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employment of only two
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span>
+thicknesses, thus obviating the necessity of a filling-in piece. If the
+latter is used, it should be of quite light leather.</p>
+
+<p>Coach and coupé harness require heavy weights, particularly for
+traces, hold-backs, back-bands, and breeching-straps; for all other
+straps, excepting bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are
+good weights, but the latter should be made from sides weighing about
+fourteen pounds.</p>
+
+<p>Light express harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use
+of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each; the bridles,
+however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that
+used for coach harness. These weights also answer well for farm and
+the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness
+requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The
+above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides;
+extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged
+by these.</p>
+
+<p>Grain leather is much used for folds, and, as a rule, the bellies, or
+at least the lower portions of trimmed hides, answer well for this
+purpose; though the finest, for coach and light harness, is made from
+sides weighing sixteen pounds or under, while for team and truck
+harness a heavier grade is required.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_2" class="f120 spa2">COUPÉ HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="514" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER II.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">RUSSET LEATHER.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> selecting rein
+leather, the same tests as to quality should be employed as with
+harness leather, as it is in every respect the same with the exception
+that, instead of being colored black, it is bleached, and afterwards
+stained brown or some other color. The latest freak of fashion is to
+bleach it quite light and then color it with a yellowish-brown stain,
+so as to produce what is known as cuir-color, a very light, almost
+imperceptible brown; in fact, the shade is nearer to the natural color
+of fine oak-tanned leather than any thing else, and the stain used is
+more for the purpose of producing a uniform shade than establishing a
+new color. When this color is employed, very little stain is needed
+on the edges of straps to bring them up to the same shade as the
+grain; and where it can be done, the harness maker will find it to his
+advantage to procure of the leather-manufacturer the same kind of stain
+as is used to color the grain, the beauty of a russet rein depending
+quite as much upon its uniformity of color as upon its make. The brown
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span>
+and yellow stains can be made very easily, but those used to produce
+the soft, fine shades are part of the leather-manufacturer’s
+stock-in-trade, and their preparation is kept a secret, at least until
+fashion has adopted some new color as the favorite.</p>
+
+<p>In selecting rein leather, it is bad policy to choose any thing but the
+best quality. Poor leather works harder, does not keep its shape as
+well, and takes a less uniform shade when stained, particularly when it
+is short-tanned, as the untanned center presents a darker shade than
+the portion that is well filled with bark. Then, too, if the grain is
+hard it is liable to crack while being made up, or upon being bent
+while in use. A pair of russet reins will contain about one pound of
+leather, and the trifling difference in the cost between the highest
+and lowest priced stock should not be sufficient inducement to the
+harness maker to jeopardize the lives of his customers by the use of
+inferior, unsafe reins.</p>
+
+<p>Hand-part leather, like that for the reins, should be of the very
+best quality, and all the tests that are applied to other kinds are
+equally effectual for this, while it should also be soft and pliant.
+It is customary among harness makers who use but a small amount of
+rein-leather to cut their folds for hand parts from the same side as
+they do the rounds.</p>
+
+<p>This is a mistake, entailing additional cost without the gain of a
+single advantage. Rein leather in most cases is too heavy for folds,
+and must be split to reduce it to the proper thickness. This process
+removes some of the strongest portion of the leather, besides occupying
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span>
+the time of the workman. A cheaper and much better plan is to procure
+handpart leather that has been made expressly for the purpose. It is
+of lighter weight, much stronger in proportion to its thickness, and,
+when cut to the proper width, is ready for the workman to make up. For
+flat hand parts the leather should be equally as heavy as that used for
+the rounds; it can be cut from the same sides as the rounds if desired,
+but, as it is generally too hard, the workman is compelled to resort
+to some method of softening it, such as pulling it around a post,
+rolling and working, etc. For flat hand parts, grained leather is quite
+popular, and looks well.</p>
+
+<p>When the harness maker can not readily procure this, he can obtain very
+nice grained hand parts by boarding or breaking the grain in the same
+manner as is done by the curriers, as follows: cut a piece of leather
+from the side, of the full width needed for two pairs of hand parts, as
+a piece of the requisite width for one pair would be too narrow to work
+well; lay the strip on a table, the grain side up, and with a board,
+such as is used by curriers, crease the grain, commencing at the front
+corner on one end, and giving the leather a half roll diagonally across
+the strip, continuing to work it at the same angle until the other end
+is reached; then commence at the front corner of the other end, and
+board it at the same angle as the first, until the end is reached where
+the work was begun. By this means, the creases in the grain will cross
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span>
+each other and form the distinctive feature from which the leather gets
+its name. The fineness of the graining depends upon the amount of labor
+applied. In a little time the workman will acquire all the experience
+necessary for the production of a fine, even grain.</p>
+
+<p>To the harness maker using but little of this kind of handpart
+leather, graining in this manner is a matter of economy. The labor
+needed to produce the desired surface does even more than this, as it
+breaks down and softens the leather, making it as pliant as can be
+desired.</p>
+
+<p>Buff leather is also much used for hand parts. It is made of the same
+quality of stock as the other kinds, but is not stained, the grain
+being buffed by the currier to remove the gloss and give it a white,
+furried appearance. It is a soft, pliant leather, and is one of the
+best kinds in use for hand parts, as, in addition to its softness and
+good appearance, it will not soil the most delicate fabrics.</p>
+
+<p>Another light-colored leather, and one a good quality of which it is
+difficult to procure, is that known as loop leather. This, unlike
+the kinds before mentioned, is not curried with oil, or at least the
+quantity of grease of any kind employed is very small. It must be
+solid, and yet possess a mellow grain that will readily take a crease
+and retain it. If in creasing up the work, one mark when placed in
+close proximity to another obliterates it, or decreases its depth
+in the least, a good piece of work can not be made, and only by the
+exercise of the greatest care can even an ordinary job be produced. If,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span>
+however, the grain is mellow, each impression made by the creaser
+becomes permanently set, and the adjoining one, no matter how near it
+may be, is equally well defined. For this reason, in selecting a side,
+make good tannage, mellow grain, and a solid body the tests.</p>
+
+<p>The lack of uniformity in thickness is a matter of no importance;
+indeed, instead of being a detriment, as is the case with all other
+leather used by harness makers, it is a positive advantage, as the
+shoulders and other thin parts can be used for check and other light
+loops, while the thick butts are of the proper weight for trace and
+similar heavy loops, all the intermediate thicknesses being available
+for the various loops for other parts.</p>
+
+<h3>BUYING LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>In purchasing leather, the buyer is compelled to depend much upon the
+honor of the seller in other respects than the determination of the
+quality, excepting in the case of weight stock, which is sold by the
+pound, the weight being ascertained at the time of sale. With trimmed
+stock, however, the case is different in most markets. This leather
+is marked with its weight while in the rough, and after it is trimmed
+and curried there are no means of ascertaining the correctness of the
+brand. It is claimed that a side of leather weighing eighteen pounds in
+the rough will lose about four pounds in the currying and trimming. No
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span>
+reliance however, can be placed upon this estimate; for if the flesh
+side is not well cleaned, and the currier is desirous of misleading,
+the leather may be stuffed with cheap oil until the finished is equal
+to the rough weight.</p>
+
+<p>Backs as well as trimmed sides are sold by the rough weight, with an
+additional charge of $1 and $1.50 each for dressing. Recently, however,
+a leading New-York manufacturer has adopted the plan of selling backs
+by their actual weight at the time of sale, the price charged being 82
+cents per pound, which is, as near as can be ascertained, the actual
+cost of that bought by the pound, and to which an extra charge has been
+added for finishing. The latter is the most simple method, and will no
+doubt come into general use when the advantages are fully understood.</p>
+
+<p>The buyer, however, is at liberty to take or leave the bellies—in the
+latter case the value by weight being deducted from the bill. These
+weigh, as a rule, four pounds. Thus a side of leather which weighed
+eighteen pounds in the rough, if properly fleshed and curried will lose
+four pounds by this process and three or four pounds more by cropping,
+leaving about eleven pounds of prime leather in the back, for which
+the buyer pays as though in the rough stock—eighteen pounds, less the
+three or four pounds deducted if the bellies are not wanted. Therefore,
+in buying a back, 48 cents a pound would be charged for eighteen pounds
+of leather, and $1.50 added for dressing, making the total cost $8.70,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span>
+after deducting for the bellies, leaving eleven pounds of prime
+leather, to be paid for at a cost of about 80 cents a pound, or nearly
+double the apparent quotation.</p>
+
+<p>In trimmed stock, the difference between the actual and the quoted
+price is much less, but the buyer pays for the bellies as well as the
+backs. The price charged per pound is, however, about 2 cents less
+for the same quality, in which case an eighteen-pound side would cost
+$8.28, and the actual weight would be about fourteen pounds, making the
+leather cost about 59 cents a pound, a difference of about 21 cents a
+pound between it and the backs. It will be seen by this that any false
+branding of the rough weight causes a marked advance in the price, and
+should teach the importance of buying trimmed stock of honest, reliable
+men, and of avoiding speculators, who offer extra inducements in the way
+of low prices, as the latter are sure to be made up by increased weight.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER III.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">PATENT LEATHER.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Glazed,</span> or, as it is
+more frequently called, patent leather is now extensively used in the
+manufacture of harness, pads, gig saddles, and winkers, they being
+seldom made of other kinds, while for ornaments such as tabs, tug-ends,
+fronts, etc., it is deemed almost indispensable; like plain leather, it
+is made both of good and poor material, and finished to correspond.</p>
+
+<p>The finest quality is made of well-assorted hides, tanned with young
+oak bark, weak liquors being used at first, and gradually strengthened
+each day until the proper degree is reached, ample time being given
+to thoroughly tan the leather before it is removed from the vats. All
+hides that are to be used for thin leather are then split.</p>
+
+<p>The first split taken from the flesh side is small, and is known as the
+“junior,” and is seldom finished in glazed stock; following this is one
+or more full splits according to the thickness of the hide. The splits
+are always finished smooth, the grain being largely used for enamel
+leather, though it is also finished as grain, collar, binding, etc.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span></p>
+
+<p>Running the hide through the splitting-machine has long been
+acknowledged to be detrimental to the leather, owing to the severe
+strain to which it is subjected, but the introduction of the belt-knife
+machine for splitting removes much of this objection, as the hide is
+split without being strained in the least. The processes of varnishing,
+drying, and finishing, while determining the quality of the leather,
+are foreign to the business of the harness maker; but there are points
+which he should understand in order to be able to judge of the quality
+of the leather. The first of these is the condition of the finished
+surface, which should be smooth, the coat of color and varnish being of
+sufficient thickness to give a pure color, while on skirting, winker,
+and other heavy stock the varnish should be thicker than on light
+leathers, as these are seldom bent while being worked. Light leather,
+such as collar and binding, is always worked over round frames, and if
+the glazed coat is too heavy it is liable to crack, thus defacing the
+surface. This is particularly the case with collar-leathers, which in
+too many cases are but the thinnest splits, selected without regard to
+their adaptability to the required purpose, whereas they should be of
+extra soft stock, coated as thinly as possible with the best grade of
+varnish. The severe treatment it receives while being shaped to the
+collar is sure to impair the surface even of the best. The grades of
+leather known as grain winker, skirting, collar, etc., command a much
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span>
+higher price than that known as splits. With the thinner qualities
+there is some advantage in using the grain, as the surface preserves
+its original appearance much better after being worked than does split
+stock; for winker and skirting, however, the grain does not possess any
+special merit, except what it may gain from not being put through the
+splitting-machine, as thin hides are selected, and they are reduced to
+a uniform thickness by the knife. The varnish is applied to the flesh
+sides, and is therefore open to the same objections as to split stock.
+The prejudice against the latter is a senseless one, and harness makers
+pay dearly for yielding to it and selecting grain stock at higher rates.</p>
+
+<p>Enamel leather is always made of the grain side, and its quality must
+be determined by its softness to the touch, purity of color, and fineness
+of finish. The prices of patent leather vary to an extent that creates
+surprise in the minds of buyers who are unacquainted with the causes.</p>
+
+<p>These exist from the very commencement. In the first place, the hides
+themselves may be of an inferior quality. When they are limed and
+prepared for the tanner, they may be placed in strong hemlock liquors
+and partially tanned, after which they are split and then retanned in
+oak liquor for the purpose of producing a light color. They are also
+submitted to various manipulations, unknown to any but the initiated,
+for the purpose of giving a good appearance to the leather without
+increasing the expense, which in no way improves the quality. After
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span>
+being otherwise prepared for the varnish, the hides are placed upon a
+frame, and by means of powerful jack-screws stretched to their utmost
+extent, whereby an increased measurement of from five to seven feet is
+given to each. They are then glazed and finished to look as well as
+prime stock, and can be sold at a marked reduction in price compared
+with the former; but the buyer who imagines he has saved two cents a
+foot by purchasing these hides pays for five or seven feet of leather,
+the greater part of which is sure to be lost, in a few months, by
+shrinkage. The worst feature of this excessive stretching is that the
+leather, being extended to its utmost capacity while wet, can not be
+worked smooth when used over irregular shapes, as all the stretch is
+taken out of it while being manufactured. This cheap stock therefore
+costs nearly as much as the best qualities, is more difficult to
+work, and is less durable when put to actual use. The care of patent
+leather in stock in order to prevent loss is a matter of considerable
+importance. When practicable, all thick stock should be hung up in a
+cool, dry room, while thin stock, both enamelled and smooth, should be
+rolled, thin paper being placed next to the glazed surface.</p>
+
+<p>There is another matter that is well worthy the attention of
+buyers—namely, the season in the year when the leather is made, this
+having much to do with its durability.</p>
+
+<p>The best leather is produced in cool weather, the poorest during the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span>
+hot months of July and August. The latter is somewhat less liable to
+become sticky when exposed to the sun, but it is almost sure to crack
+during cold weather, sometimes when not in use, and there are very few
+leather-manufacturers who are willing to warrant stock not made in
+cold weather. Harness-manufacturers should therefore look well to this
+matter, as cracked patent leather destroys the appearance of their work.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER IV.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">CUTTING HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> cutting of harness
+leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure that best suited to the
+requirements of each individual strap is a subject of the first
+importance to every harness maker, no matter what the extent of his
+business may be. Leather scraps are of no value, though every piece has
+been paid for, while the use of the softest and weakest part of the
+leather in straps that receive the greatest amount of strain insures
+the production of an inferior harness, be it ever so well made up. The
+cutter therefore lays the foundation for, and upon his skill depends
+much of, the manufacturer’s success. In large factories this is well
+understood, and the most skilful men are employed at high wages to cut
+up stock.</p>
+
+<p class="spb2">These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness
+and kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there
+being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The
+small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following
+rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span>
+in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but
+produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather in
+three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock, and
+backs; these are illustrated by <a href="#FIG_4_1">Fig. I.</a>
+The extreme outline shows the side in full; this is sold as weight
+stock—that is, by its actual weight at the time of purchase. The dotted
+line commencing at the root of the tail and passing down the back end,
+along the belly and up the front to the top, shows the general form
+of the hide after being trimmed, though in some cases the trimming
+consists of merely cutting off a few of the most prominent points and
+slightly straightening the edges. The dotted line A, running parallel
+with the length of the hide, indicates the bottom line of what is known
+as the back (the width of which is governed by the condition of the
+hide itself), the line of separation being drawn just above the thin
+portion of the flank, the position of which is shown by the dotted line
+B, the ends being trimmed the same as in trimmed stock.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span></p>
+
+<div id="FIG_4_1" class="figcenter">
+    <img src="images/fig_4_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="263" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span>
+A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find
+it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then
+crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or
+about the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from
+in cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating
+the necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the
+requisite thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein
+by cutting a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do
+under other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should
+not be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the
+splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This
+machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is
+positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is
+possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works
+nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious.</p>
+
+<p>The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he
+proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single
+harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from
+blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the
+sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness
+being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and thin
+shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by
+<a href="#FIG_4_1">Fig. 1.</a></p>
+
+<p>The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a
+few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that
+portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the
+back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps,
+such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or
+team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps,
+etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span>
+thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by
+lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the
+inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed
+out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut
+into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes
+and short billets, thus utilizing every part.</p>
+
+<p>To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely
+different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the
+different sections being shown by <a href="#FIG_4_2">Fig. 2.</a></p>
+
+<p>A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about
+sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen.</p>
+
+<p>The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A,
+which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the
+center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock
+to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel
+with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned.
+Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1, then
+measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces and
+reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the requisite
+straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly straight,
+unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the tail is
+shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line by
+cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span>
+cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for
+the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge
+with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any
+other straps from the back end.</p>
+
+<p>It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge
+the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper
+than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important
+considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste
+of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should
+be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute
+angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the side
+of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously slit off.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span></p>
+
+<div id="FIG_4_2" class="figcenter">
+    <img src="images/fig_4_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="277" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span>
+The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers
+for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and
+the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite
+length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same
+lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair
+of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into
+breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps,
+nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into
+check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order
+named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such
+as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and
+points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and
+neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time
+all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up.
+The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy
+flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good
+advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what
+is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather
+gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part
+of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked
+up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps,
+belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the
+flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short
+billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces
+can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not
+claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in
+all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will
+be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular
+straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste.
+Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the
+section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are
+removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the
+straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in
+<a href="#FIG_4_1">Fig. 1.</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_3" class="f120 spa2">PHAETON HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="532" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER V.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">PREPARING THE LEATHER<br> FOR THE FITTER.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> the manufacture of
+fine harness, where the straps are to be worked up full and to artistic
+patterns, the best quality of oak leather should be used, as, it being
+well curried, the manner of working it is less complicated than when
+commoner grades are employed. The reason for this is, that only the
+firm portion of the leather is used, the bellies, flanks, etc., being
+cut all off, leaving a narrow strip called the back, from eighteen to
+twenty-two inches wide. This leather requires to be moistened with a
+sponge and water, but there are few harness makers who wet it to any
+considerable extent. The practice, however, of one of the leading
+manufacturers of this country is to place all the straps in a vat of
+water, allowing them to remain immersed until the grain shows signs of
+the tallow coming to the surface. They are then removed, wiped, and
+hung up until the surface moisture is dried off, when they are handed
+over to the fitter, who rolls the whole in a coarse cloth, afterwards
+taking them out one at a time, and fitting them up. It is claimed that
+this treatment prepares the leather for working up much better than
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span>
+when it is merely dampened, and that the little oil and grease forced
+out can easily be replaced without any detriment to the leather.</p>
+
+<p>Curriers, however, condemn this treatment of fine, well-finished stock,
+but experience has shown that leather thus manipulated can be worked up
+into the finest harness, the finish on the grain being soft and clear
+and the edges smooth, the leather retaining its softness as long as
+that which has only been moistened. While there is a marked reduction
+in the labor necessary in fitting it up, it is evident that there is
+something gained by pursuing this method.</p>
+
+<p>There is in the market large quantities of well-tanned but
+poorly-curried stock. This is far preferable to poorly-tanned leather,
+no matter how well it may be curried, if properly treated by the
+harness maker. The right course to pursue with this quality is to
+soak the leather until it is well moistened to the center, the length
+of time necessary varying so greatly with different kinds that it is
+impossible to give any other guides than the appearance of the grease
+on the surface. The “testing-strap” is also sometimes employed. A
+small scrap of the leather, being soaked, is placed in the water with
+the straps, and when the workman thinks the leather is sufficiently
+wet, he cuts this strap and ascertains whether or not the moisture has
+penetrated to the center. When sufficiently wet, the straps are removed
+from the vat and hung up until the surface moisture has dried off. Each
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span>
+strap is then taken in hand, and if the leather has been badly fleshed,
+a spokeshave is used to remove all the superfluous stock. This is done
+by laying the strap on the bench, grain side down, securing the end
+with an awl, and with a sharp tool cutting off the loose scraps and
+thin, veiny portions. Care should be taken, however, to avoid cutting
+away any more of the flesh side than is absolutely necessary, as the
+leather is weakened by so doing. After being cleaned off, the leather
+should be rubbed on the flesh side with a slicker, and laid out on a
+board grain side down; then with brush give each strap a coat of melted
+tallow, warm enough to run freely, but not sufficiently hot to injure
+the leather, and brush it well to work in all the grease possible.
+Allow the straps to remain coated with tallow for twelve hours at
+least, by which time the moisture will have dried out and the tallow
+have struck well into the pores of the leather. No bad results will
+follow if the leather is allowed to remain a much longer time coated
+with the tallow.</p>
+
+<p>After the leather has been in this state a sufficient length of time,
+each strap must be placed upon a bench, grain side down, and secured in
+the same manner as before mentioned; then with a glass slicker rub the
+flesh side thoroughly, working in all the grease possible, the surplus
+being removed by the slicker. Then turn the strap over, and rub down
+the other side to set the grain and give it a fine appearance.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span></p>
+
+<p>If the straps are to be worked up full, it will not be necessary to rub
+the grain side much, as the rubbing incident to the process of fitting
+up will give it a fine finish. This recurrying is not done solely with
+a view of improving the appearance of the leather, though this alone
+would fully compensate the manufacturer for his trouble, the treatment
+being equally beneficial to its wearing qualities, as the leather is
+made more dense by the rubbing it receives, while the grease is worked
+thoroughly into every fibre, causing it to become soft and flexible.</p>
+
+<p>With ordinary leather, this recurrying will reduce it in thickness
+nearly one third without a particle of its original substance being
+removed. The good effect is not so marked upon poorly-tanned leather
+as it is on that which is well tanned but poorly curried, but the
+improvement in the wearing qualities and appearance is sufficient to
+make it profitable to expend labor in this direction.</p>
+
+<p>The leather used for single-strap track-harness should always be rubbed
+on the flesh side as has been directed, in order to give a fine,
+smooth, and perfect finish, which, after being blacked, will make the
+flesh nearly equal to the grain side. Besides this, the increased
+density given to the leather makes it possible to trim the edges
+smoothly and finish them as finely as the grain, and as this latter
+consideration is one of great importance to all who desire the harness
+to appear smooth and true, they will find it greatly to their advantage
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span>
+to follow the above directions when preparing their leather. Common
+harness could be made to appear much neater than is generally the case
+if the same course were followed in the treatment of the leather as
+recommended for fine grades, but as the prices are usually such as to
+render the carrying out of this system unprofitable, the leather can be
+fitted up without extra labor, the straps being moistened by dipping
+them into a pail of water, or by using a sponge. With this kind of
+stock, no more water should be used than is absolutely necessary to
+cause it to work up well.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VI.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MEASURING FOR HARNESS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">A very</span> large percentage
+of all the harness makers in this country look upon the idea of
+measuring a horse as unworthy their consideration, but the experience
+and observation of the most enterprising men in the custom trade has
+convinced them that the reason why there are so many ill fitting
+harness in use is because of the failure of so large a number in
+the trade to adopt the same common-sense rules which govern other
+mechanics. There are some straps which can be lengthened or shortened
+to accommodate them to the size and form of the horse without
+detriment; but the principal ones can not be so changed, and if not
+made of a proper length at first they seriously interfere with the
+appearance as well as the durability of the harness.</p>
+
+<p>Prominent among the latter is the hame tug, whether it be for a short
+or long tug harness. If for a long tug, the length must be such that
+when the collar is well down upon the shoulder, the market tug will
+follow a line parallel with the center of the pad side: if this
+position is not maintained, an unnecessary strain is thrown upon the
+swivel, or loop in the end of the pad top, and the pad itself will be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</span>
+likely to be drawn out of shape and the appearance of the harness be
+marred. With short tugs the result is quite as injurious; if the tug is
+sufficiently long to allow the trace buckle to come in contact with the
+pad trace bearer on a double harness, and the buckle on the back-band
+of a single harness, injury will be done to these straps, or to the
+hame tug itself. It naturally follows, therefore, that the length of
+the horse from the collar to the girth is an important consideration.</p>
+
+<p>With breast collar harness the length of the body is equally as
+important as the length of the hame tug on the hame collar; the
+position of the neck strap tugs has much to do with the set of the
+collar and the wear of the harness. If the tugs are set too far back,
+the collar will sag in front so as to interfere with the movement of
+the horse, or it will be necessary to shorten the neck strap to such an
+extent that an undue strain will be thrown upon it at the neck strap
+tug when the trace is straightened.</p>
+
+<p>The proper length for the breeching body, winker brace, cheek straps,
+girths, etc., are of equal importance; while the point of attaching
+the hip strap to the turnback, the front to the cheek pieces, and the
+position of the winkers, all contribute much to the durability as well
+as the appearance of the harness; yet there are those who ridicule the
+whole idea of measuring, they depending entirely upon lengthening or
+shortening such straps as can be adjusted by the use of buckles.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span></p>
+
+<p>Manufacturers who carry on an extended business and ship goods to all
+parts of the country can not measure every horse; they have accordingly
+adopted a set of lengths for each class, based upon the size of horse
+upon which they are to be used.</p>
+
+<p>If a coach harness is to be made, it is supposed to be for horses
+sixteen hands, or over, high, and is cut to those lengths that
+experience has shown to be the most correct for such sized animals. If
+a double road harness is ordered, it is made from lengths suitable for
+horses fifteen or fifteen and a half hands high, while an order for
+a light phaeton harness would be filled by cutting from the scale of
+lengths adapted to horses fourteen or fourteen and a half hands high. A
+light track harness is cut to fit a horse fifteen or fifteen and a half
+hands high, while one for a coupé would be cut from the lengths suited
+to horses sixteen to sixteen and a half hands high. Regular buggy
+harness for common use are cut with traces and other straps running
+lengthwise to fit horses fifteen hands high, but girths, etc., are cut
+for heavier animals.</p>
+
+<p>The lengths used by these houses have been determined by close
+observation, and are as nearly correct as can be expected. Another rule
+is based upon the lengths suited to a fifteen-hand horse, adding or
+subtracting four inches to girths, one and one half inches to breast
+and breeching bodies, and three inches to hip and neck straps, for
+every hand increase or decrease in the size of the horse.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_4" class="f120 spa2">COACH HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="469" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span>
+Such tables are always valuable to harness makers who are making up
+stock, and by a little observation may be made to answer perfectly for
+different localities; but custom makers who do not possess these scales
+of lengths should measure the horses for which the harness is to be
+made if they hope to succeed in having it fit well.</p>
+
+<p>In measuring for a bridle, ascertain the length from the corner of the
+mouth to one inch below the root of the ear, and add enough to this
+for the lap to secure the buckle to the top of the cheek piece, and
+also two thirds the original length: this will give a cheek piece long
+enough to allow the loose end to enter into the cheek loop about one
+half its length; for the crown piece, measure from the root of the
+ear on one side, over the head to the root of the ear on the other
+side, and add five or six inches to each end for the cheek and throat
+latch billets; for throat latch, measure from a point two inches below
+the root of the ear, around the throat, to the corresponding point
+on the other side; for the neck strap to a breast collar, pass the
+measure over the neck just forward of the highest point of the withers,
+carrying the ends forward three inches to a point parallel with the
+point where the throat enters the breast; determine the position of the
+tugs by measuring around the breast from the points designated by the
+ends of the neck strap. To determine the length of the breast collar,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span>
+measure from a point four inches above the elbow on one side, around
+the breast just below where the throat enters the breast, to a corresponding
+point on the other side. The girth measure must also be taken.</p>
+
+<p>If the harness is to be made up with a long tug and market tug,
+designate the exact location of the center of the girth, and measure
+from the end of the hame draft eye to the point designated as the
+center of the girth, and deduct from this the length of the buckle back
+of the center of the loop. See that the collar sets well back in its
+place when measuring for the tug, as the proper length of this strap is
+of the greatest importance: if it is too long or too short, the market
+tug will not occupy its proper position, and thereby detract much from
+the appearance of the harness. In measuring for the breeching, draw
+the line around the buttock from a point just above the stifle to a
+corresponding position on the opposite side, and allow one inch for
+slack; for hip straps, measure from a point ten inches forward of the
+crupper down to the point occupied by the body of the breeching, and
+deduct three inches for the breeching tugs.</p>
+
+<p>The harness maker who has a well-assorted table of lengths of the
+strapping for various kinds of harness need not measure the horse to
+be fitted except in special cases. A set of lengths which are suited
+to horses in one locality may be in part unsuited to those of another,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span>
+owing to the difference in their build, and it would be well in all
+cases to test the lengths furnished before adopting them in full.</p>
+
+<p>In preparing the tables of lengths and widths in this work, the author
+has aimed to secure those which have proved correct, and, while not
+claiming infallibility, he believes they are as near perfect as any
+tables of this kind can be. They represent a variety of styles suited to
+the wants of all classes of customers, and can be followed with safety.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 1.</b><br><span class="smcap">Single Strap Track Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Half Kemble Jackson check<span class="ws2">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">25</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag rein</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;3</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 21½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Jockeys</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2⅝
+                   <span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Safety strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">45</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale, body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottom lay</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ring piece, round</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⁷/₁₆</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREAST-COLLAR.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">35</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">38</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">83</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Lap, on breast collar</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">38</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">43</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs, round</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼, ⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hand parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 2.</b><br><span class="smcap">Single Road Harness—One-Inch Trace.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, flat</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;4½</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREAST-COLLAR.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layer and trace in one<span class="ws2">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">89</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;2½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;21½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Jockeys</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;3¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅝
+                   <span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">41</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bottom lay</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">45</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">45</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching tugs, round</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Buckle chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins, flat</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hand parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast collar</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 3.</b><br><span class="smcap">Single Harness (Breast Collar).</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker brace</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;5½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, round</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;7½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREAST-COLLAR.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">at ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">40</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">at ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1
+                     <span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>GIG SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;3</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;21½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Jockeys</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;3¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottom</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching tugs, round<span class="ws2">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Buckle chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;17½</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast collar</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">37</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;3</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 4.</b><br><span class="smcap">Single Harness (Hame Collar).</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, rounded<span class="ws2">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;8½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps, short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">&nbsp; long</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">80</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>GIG SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;3½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½
+                    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">35</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottom lay</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ring piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">49</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">at hip</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">33</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching</td>
+      <td class="tdc">37</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span></p>
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 5.</b><br><span class="smcap">Heavy Coupé Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layer, cut to pattern</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;8½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends at cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Round check</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center check</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;4</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Point</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Jockey</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-band (running)</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼
+                      <span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottom lay</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES, TRACES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hames, 4 pounds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tug, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 10½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Safes, full length</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;4½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">50</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Kidney strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ornament</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;3½</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span></p>
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 6.</b><br><span class="smcap">Double Road Harness,<br> without Breeching.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer, waved</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag runners</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;5¼</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES AND TRACES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hames</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⁹/₁₆</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Safes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;5½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">80</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Spread straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Link</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Top</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Sides</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Trace bearers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;
+                  <span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Housings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Docks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Standing martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">64</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">Chin parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short reins, rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">55</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long reins, rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hand parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">102&#8199;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREAST COLLARS FOR PATENT YOKE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">40</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">43</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, long ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 17½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">&emsp;&nbsp;short ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 14½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs, short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;2¼</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;2¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets on yokes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Yoke straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Safety straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast collars</td>
+      <td class="tdc">41</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Neck straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span></p>
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 7.</b><br><span class="smcap">Short Tug Coach Harness,<br> without Breeching.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker brace</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, flat</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag runners</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;5¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;7¼</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¹³/₁₆</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">At bilge</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Trace bearers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Lining</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Point</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞
+                    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottoms</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Standing martingales<span class="ws2">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Mouth pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">At docks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">66</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES AND TRACES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hames</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottoms</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4⅝</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">81</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Spread straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span></p>
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 8.</b><br><span class="smcap">Long Tug Coach Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ornaments</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;4¼</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;6⅛</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Checks for swivel</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Plain</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center check&#x2060;<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES AND TRACES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hames</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;16½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Safe</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Top</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;16½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Housings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 21½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad sides</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;
+            <span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Market straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Market tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;23½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">35</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Spread straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">53</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;4</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Centers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ornaments</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;32½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bodies</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Docks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;17½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅓</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">55</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hand parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">108&#8199;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">long</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breechings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p>
+<a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a>
+Other straps same as in No. 7.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 9.</b><br><span class="smcap">English Four-in-Hand Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;2</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 10½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose bands, middle</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 12½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Buckle-ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;8½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers, square</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;6½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bearing reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">66</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Round reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 20½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Running bradoons</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bottoms</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 21½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Point straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Girths</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Girth pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Girth straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tug belly bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHINGS, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bodies</td>
+      <td class="tdc">120&#8199;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛
+           <span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Trace bearers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">45</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Linings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">59</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cruppers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Docks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRACES, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Draw leathers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 19½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Safes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">At hame end</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tug straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bearing martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short martingales</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leader traces, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">Safes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 20½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">All other leader strapping,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2" colspan="2">narrower than wheelers</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>REINS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Wheeler</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13 feet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Couplings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;9&emsp;”</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;1 foot</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hand parts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6 feet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Leader reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22&emsp;”&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 10.</b><br><span class="smcap">Tandem Harness.—Lead-Horse.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdr fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check for swivel</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center check</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">175&#8199;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PAD AND LONG TUGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Top</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Housing</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Sides</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Market tug chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Market tug billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞
+           <span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 16½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">90</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Trace bearers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>GIG SADDLE AND SHORT TUGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;4</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Trace bearers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">92</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SHAFT-HORSE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws1" colspan="3">Bridle cut ⅛ of an inch heavier</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">than that for lead-horse, the lengths</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">being the same throughout.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">At swell</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws1" colspan="3">All other parts cut to the same</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">measurements as those of the</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3"><b>Coupé harness, No. 5</b>.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 11.</b><br><span class="smcap">Medium Weight Single Express Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker brace</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr"></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag runners</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers, square</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>GIG SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Skirts, width to suit tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;
+               <span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft girth, fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Carriers for saddle</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">74</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">38</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Carrying straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr"></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 12.</b><br><span class="smcap">Heavy Single Express Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">25</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 12½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;7½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;5½</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>HAMES AND TRACES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hames</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;4</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame strap, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">short</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;
+                 <span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>SADDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tree</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Flaps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Jockies</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Shaft tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chapes, long belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">&nbsp;short belly band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">58</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>FOLDS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching</td>
+      <td class="tdc">41</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">long</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2¼</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 13.</b><br><span class="smcap">Long Tug Team Harness,<br> Soft Pad.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Cheek billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Throat latch billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">fitted up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;16½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;5⅞</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Inside checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Outside checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Ring pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Center rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;
+               <span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nut pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Skirt straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chapes for lead up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;6½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">68</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Lazy straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">44</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRACES, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces, fitted up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs, fitted up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pole straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">66</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Collar straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps, bottom</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">&nbsp; top</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 14.</b><br><span class="smcap">Long Tug Farm Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;7½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bit straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 11½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws3">short</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, flat</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">&nbsp;&emsp; round</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Checks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span></td>
+      <td class="tdr">8⅞                 </td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS, TRACES, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad tops, soft pad</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">50</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws2">&nbsp; short</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Holdbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper bodies</td>
+      <td class="tdc">17</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Docks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Lines</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 15.</b><br><span class="smcap">Wagon Harness with<br> Adjustable Trees.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split at ends</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞ and ¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws3">short</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Round reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker brace</td>
+      <td class="tdc">11</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker, wing pattern</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">With cockeyes and chains</td>
+      <td class="tdc">76</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">Adjustable trees, No. 6.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad skirt</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer, also to line billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Bottoms</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">6&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼
+              <span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Dock, folded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back straps, to sew in rump rings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Holdbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">50</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame and carrying straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pairs common low top wooden hames,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 bits,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1½-inch cockeyes,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 1¾-inch breeching rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1-inch<span class="ws3">&nbsp;”</span><span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 ⅞-inch<span class="ws3">”</span><span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">12 1¼-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 1½-inch&emsp;&nbsp; ”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">20 ⅞-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">16 ¾-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1½-inch trace buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 gag-swivels.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 16.</b><br><span class="smcap">Adjustable Pad Double Harness,<br>
+<span class="fs_90">to be used also as</span> Single Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;7½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bit straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Fronts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">23</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; 10½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker braces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split, rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;&#8199;4¾</td>
+      <td class="tdr">4¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>ADJUSTABLE PADS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Skirts</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Pads</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-bands</td>
+      <td class="tdc">38</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRACES, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly bands, folded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">19</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;
+                 <span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingales, folded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets, collar</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pole straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Yoke straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">3¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">45</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">&nbsp; &emsp;short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">10</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pair low top wood hames,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 adjustable trees,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1½-inch trace buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1¼-inch roller buckles—for breast and neck-straps,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">14 1-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 ⅞-inch&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">24 ⅝-inch&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 breeching rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;8 ¾-inch rings.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 17.</b><br><span class="smcap">Pennsylvania Wagon Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek pieces, long billet side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws3">short billet side</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr"></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winkers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;5½</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Check reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bit straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Butt pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">58</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cross pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">62</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Braces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½
+                <span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back-band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">46</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Short-top stay</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">66</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">3&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes, for square on rump</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock, folded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, long side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Carrying straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chain pipes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pair hook hames, high top,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 trace chains,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 large rings, or D’s, for breeching,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 bits,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 1½-inch buckles—breast strap,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 triangles for rump,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 1½-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 1¼-inch&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">16 ⅞-inch&nbsp; &emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;&nbsp; 2 1-inch&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 ¾-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 18.</b><br><span class="smcap">Stage Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins, in one piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS, ETC.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Points cut down to</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Tugs and belly band billets combined</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Traces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">64</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Stay loops, sewed in the trace</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breast straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½
+                       <span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Holdbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Collar straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Carrying straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>BREECHINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layers</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">72</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back straps, or turnbacks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper bodies</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock, folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pairs high top Concord hames,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 bridle bits,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pairs two-foot chains with D ends,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">14 1¼-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">2 1½-inch&nbsp; &emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">16 ⅞inch &nbsp; &emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 1-inch &nbsp; &emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">20 ¾inch &nbsp; &emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 1¾-inch breeching rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 1¼-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1-inch&nbsp;<span class="ws2">&nbsp; ”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 gag-swivels.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 19.</b><br><span class="smcap">Bitting Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLE.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">2&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Swivel strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag rein, long side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">66</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws3">rounded</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">&emsp;short  side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3"><span class="ws3">rounded</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">12&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Martingale to buckle back</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Surcingle, web</td>
+      <td class="tdc">63</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">padded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billets on broad web</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;6</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;
+             <span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad layer and billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">21</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback, sewed in rump ring</td>
+      <td class="tdc">42</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crupper body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Dock</td>
+      <td class="tdc">16</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;1 bit,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 martingale rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;1 1¼-inch ring,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;3 1⅛-inch rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;5 1¼-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">10 1-inch&nbsp;<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;3 ⅞-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;5 ¾-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p class="blockquot">In making up, measure off 24 inches from the
+billet end of the web for the center of the pad, which should be 16
+inches long; sew on the chape for the billet, and turn back the ring
+across the center of the pad; measure off from the center 22 inches on
+each side for the side check, chapes of ring, and buckles; buckle back
+the rump stay strap with a reverse buckle and slip loops.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 20.</b><br><span class="smcap">Cart Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BREECHING.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Body</td>
+      <td class="tdc">75</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer, to extend to ring</td>
+      <td class="tdc">64</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Kidney strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">58</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Back strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Safe-piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">4&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Layer or buckle piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">14</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band, long</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">2½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">Bridle same as stage harness, No. 18.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 saddle tree,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 pair hook hames,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 back chain,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">2 holdback chains,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">2 trace chains,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">2 loop end pins for breeching,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 2½-inch ring for rump,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">4 1⅛-inch rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">6 1-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">8 ¾-inch &nbsp;&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 2½-inch buckle,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 1½-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 1¼-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">1 plain ring bit.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 21.</b><br><span class="smcap">Mule Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">BRIDLES.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latches</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins, in one piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>PADS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Top</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Belly band folds</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs</td>
+      <td class="tdc">32</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Breeching fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">5&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hip straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Side straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">62</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Turnback</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span></p>
+
+<p class="f120"><b>No. 22.</b><br><span class="smcap">Short Tug Butt Chain Harness.</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hame tugs, to sew in side loops</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short tugs for chains</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad fold</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">6&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer, to include billet linings</td>
+      <td class="tdc">48</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center lay for back strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bridle reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">78</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">All other parts the same as <b>No. 16</b>.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdc fs_110" colspan="3">&nbsp;<br>TRIMMINGS.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pairs of common high top hames,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 common bits,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 breeching loops for tugs,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 pairs of butt chains,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;6 1¾-inch breeching rings,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 1-inch<span class="ws3">”</span><span class="ws3">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;4 ⅞-inch<span class="ws3">”</span><span class="ws3">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">12 1¼-inch buckles,</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">&#8199;2 1½-inch&nbsp;&emsp;&nbsp;”</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">20 ⅞-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">16 ¾-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="3">4 1½-inch trace buckles.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl"></td>
+      <td class="tdc"></td>
+      <td class="tdr"></td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span></p>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Trimmings for Carriage-Harness.</span></h3>
+
+<ul class="index">
+<li class="isub8">No. 1.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_64">Page 64</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅜ or 1½-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 bolt-hook to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">9 ½-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">10 ⅝-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">6 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 gag-swivels,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 half-cheek trotting-snaffle,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 saddle-nails.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 2.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_66">Page 66</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1¼-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 No. 4 bolt-hook,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 No. 2 fly terret,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 front,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ⅞-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 gag-swivels,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,
+    <span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span></li>
+<li class="isub2">4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">8 ½-inch bridle-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">3 ⅝-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">5 ¾-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ⅜-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ¾-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 half-cheek snaffle.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 3.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_68">Page 68</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1⅜ or 1½ inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 bolt-hook to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1-inch trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">9 ½-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">7 ¾-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2">5 ⅝-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ⅞-inch rein-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1¼-inch martingale-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1¼-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 snaffle-bit,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 gag-swivels,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">4 saddle-nails.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 4.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_70">Page 70</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ¹¹/₁₆-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1½ or 1⅝-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 bolt-hook to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅛-inch trace-buckles,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span></li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">3 ⅞-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">5 ¾-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2">12 ⅝-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 gag-swivels,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 fly-terret,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅜-inch martingale-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 snaffle-bit.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 5.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_72">Page 72</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ¾-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 bolt-hook to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 fly-terret to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 ⅞ inch buckle,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">6 ¾-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">11 ⅝-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 Hanoverian or scroll bit,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 chain or link front,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 gag-runners (hooks and eyes),</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1½-inch breeching rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 saddle-nails.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span></p>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 6.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_74">Page 74</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ⁹/₁₆-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼ or 1⅜-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly or post hooks to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly-terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1-inch trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">8 pad-screws,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">6 ¾-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅝-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></li>
+<li class="isub2-5">8 1-inch&nbsp;<span class="ws2">”</span></li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅝-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅜-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2">24 ½-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 Hanoverian or snaffle bits,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 hame-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 gag-runners.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 7.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_76">Page 76</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ⅝-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1⅝ or 1¾-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly-hooks to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly-terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1¼-inch trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅝-inch<span class="ws2">”</span></li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ⅞-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ¾-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2">20 ⅝-inch&nbsp;&emsp;”
+      <span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span></li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 scroll or Hanoverian bits,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 gag-runners,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 hame-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 crupper-loops,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">8 pad-screws.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 8.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_78">Page 78</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ¾-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1⅝ or 1¾ inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly or post hooks,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 fly-terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1¼-inch center-bar loop trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 1-inch tug-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">8 ⅞-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">30 ¾-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">8 ⅝-inch &nbsp;&emsp;”</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 ⅝-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 stiff scroll or Hanoverian bits,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 Bradoon bits,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 Bradoon swivels,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 gag-swivels (hooks and links),</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 hame-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">12 pad-screws,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 crupper-loops,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 pad-loops.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="center">Nos. 9 and 10.<br>
+Pages <a href="#Page_80">80</a> and <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</p>
+
+<p>The trimmings for these harness are the same as for the regular sets
+of double or single, with the exception of the ring-rosettes for the
+bridles of the pole or shaft horses.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</span></p>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 11.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_84">Page 84</a>.</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 pair ⅞-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¾-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 post or bolt hook to match,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 fly-terret,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1½-inch trace-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1¼-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">5 1-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 ⅞-inch roller-buckle,</li>
+<li class="isub2">14 ¾-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 plain ring-bit,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 gag-runners,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 1⅜-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 martingale-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">1 plain front,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">2 ¾-inch rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2-5">4 saddle-nails.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="index spa2">
+<li class="isub8">No. 12.</li>
+<li class="isub7"><a href="#Page_86">Page 86</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="isub2">1 pair ⅞-inch hames,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1⅞-inch terrets,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 post or bolt hook,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 fly-terret,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1⅞-inch trace-buckles,
+            <span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span></li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1½-inch shaft-tug buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">6 1¼-inch roller-buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">4 1-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 1-inch roller-buckle,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 1¾-inch buckles,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 ring-bit,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 rosettes,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 gag-runners,</li>
+<li class="isub2">2 1⅝-inch breeching-rings,</li>
+<li class="isub2">1 band-front,</li>
+<li class="isub2">4 saddle-nails.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER VIII.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A<br> BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> man who performs his
+work well and quickly, possesses a capital which can always be invested
+to good advantage to himself and his employer; while the lack of the
+necessary skill and knowledge to accomplish these results acts as a
+serious drawback to success. In almost every factory there are those
+who, if they had received proper instruction when learning their trade,
+would have made first-class mechanics, but who, because of neglect
+on their own part, or on that of their instructors, lack confidence
+in themselves when brought in contact with others, and are content
+to hold secondary positions, passing through life without benefit to
+their profession or profit to themselves. Want of system is the great
+underlying fault, and is the principal reason why success is so seldom
+attained.</p>
+
+<p>The journeyman who works at his bench in a careless, hap-hazard manner
+can not perform his part well, and is almost certain to interfere with
+the labor of those near him, while by his example he inculcates in the
+minds of the apprentices the same disregard for order and system as
+exhibited by himself, thus working a permanent injury to all with whom
+he comes in contact.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_5" class="f120 spa2">BREAST COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_5.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="453" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span>
+There is on the part of mechanics a general disinclination to listen
+to advice based upon theory, and from a knowledge of this fact the
+author has prepared the following practical instructions in harness
+making in its various parts, believing the end sought could better
+be accomplished in this way than in any other. While it is not to
+be expected that the rules here laid down can be followed in every
+particular, it is believed that there is much that will be found
+instructive and useful even to the most experienced journeyman, and
+which if studied by the apprentice, or the journeyman who has been
+deprived of opportunities to learn his business in detail, will serve
+to advance them far more rapidly towards a mastery of their trade than
+if they depended solely upon the ideas and practices acquired at the
+work-bench.</p>
+
+<p>The instructions given for making up a single harness will serve as a
+general guide which may be followed in almost every case, as they point
+out the routine to be followed and the manner of handling the stock.</p>
+
+<p>To facilitate the execution of the labor and secure good results, the
+workman must so fit up the various parts that the stitcher can perform
+one class of work at a time; it will not do to call upon him to stitch
+a round, then a loop, followed by folds and other parts. As far as
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span>
+possible the rounds should be prepared at one time, the breeching,
+hip, turnback, and other plain straps at another, then the folds,
+loops, laps, and all other parts where there is any considerable work
+of a kind, each by themselves, not perhaps in the order named, but in
+such a manner that each particular class of work can be done without
+interfering with another. In the following instructions for fitting up
+a single harness, the rotation is such as to cause but little annoyance
+to the stitcher, while at the same time the fitter is not compelled to
+wait for any thing.</p>
+
+<p>The plan here detailed is that followed in a factory where the leather
+is cut out and given to the fitter, and the stitching done by men who
+do nothing else. The leather being on the work-bench, the first act
+is to wet all the stock thoroughly in blood-warm water, but care must
+be taken to expose it to moisture long enough to draw the oil to the
+surface; then skive down all the straps or parts thereof that are to
+be made up into rounds, such as the winker brace, gag runners, center
+of breast collar, shaft tugs, and crupper dock. Slick them out and lay
+them aside to dry, then with a sharp spokeshave remove the flesh quite
+closely from the crown piece, check rein billets, belly band billets,
+center-piece, and cheeks; slick them out, apply a thick coat of clean
+tallow, and lay them aside to dry where they will not be exposed to the
+sun or to the heat from a stove, as such exposure will turn the stock
+dark and cause the tallow to spew. The fleshing is not necessary on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span>
+fine stock, but where it is requisite it should be done at this time.
+Next skive the breeching, belly band, breast collar, and neck piece
+layers, slick them out and lay them aside to dry; then skive down the
+trace fillings or raise to the required thickness, and take the edges
+down thin with a wide edge tool. Next proceed to skive down the top
+and bottom, and slick them out, after which raise the top and paste
+in the filling (avoid using more paste than is absolutely necessary),
+moisten the top of the trace with a damp sponge and rub it down with a
+bone, reverse the straps so that the butts will run up on the outside
+and down on the inside, then paste on the bottom, wet it in the same
+manner as directed for the top, rub it down with a bone, and then rub
+the trace well with a rag: this will give the grain a fine, soft finish
+that can not be secured in any other way. Then skive down the tops
+and bottoms of the breeching straps, slick them out, block, crease,
+and punch holes in the bottom for the buckles; take the edges down on
+the bottom to form the raise on the top, raise the latter, and paste
+down for a distance of four feet; skive the tops and bottoms of the
+hip straps, slick them out, and take down the edges of the bottoms to
+form the raise for the tops; cut them off three feet eight inches long,
+round the ends, paste on the tops, and rub them with a bone and rag;
+lay them aside, and when they are sufficiently dry so that the paste
+will not move they are ready to sink, but do not dry them in the sun or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span>
+near the fire, as such heat will harden the stock and cause the paste
+to dry unevenly.</p>
+
+<p>Next fit up the shaft tug—eight inches for a seven-eighth inch
+tug—the straps being cut one and one eighth inches wide. Take off
+one eighth of an inch on each edge of the portion to be fitted up,
+raise and fill in the remaining portion so as to take up the quarter
+inch that was trimmed off the outside, channel the inside so that the
+stitches will be buried out of sight, and lay them aside to dry. Now
+fit the dock, mark off and cut it out, crease the edges with a fine
+crease, prick off twelve inches, take the edges down quite thin and
+bend the two together. Next fit the rounds, commencing with those for
+the gag runners and following with those for the throat latch and
+breast collar. Take the edge off the full length of the part to be
+rounded, and channel with a small round knife from the edge. The gag
+runners for a half-inch bridle require to be channeled four inches,
+the center-piece for a breast collar four and one half inches, and the
+throat latch sixteen inches; hammer the straps down, and fill them if
+they require it.</p>
+
+<p>The winker brace is the next strap to be prepared. The billet is four
+and one half inches long; raise and crease it, hammer up the rounds
+(which are seven and three quarter inches long), line the billet, and
+allow the end of the lining to enter the round one inch; have the
+latter stitched, paste the billet down, and crease it when dry. Next
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span>
+prepare the breeching tugs. The round for the front one should be
+channeled three and three quarter inches, the back one four inches;
+black the part which passes around the rings, prick in the center,
+and tack in the rings. Follow these by the martingale. Mark off three
+quarters of an inch from the end to round in, then five inches for
+laps, channel seven inches, raise, crease, and black the laps; mark
+out, cut, and crease the layers; hammer up and fill the rounds, and
+have them stitched; then prick off the laps and have them stitched.
+Next fit up the turnback. First mark off two inches for the laps on the
+ends of the dock billets; channel seven inches for the rounds; raise
+the laps, then mark off and cut out the wave, skive down the edges,
+hammer up the rounds, and fit the lining, allowing it to extend down
+so as to form the filling for the rounds; have the latter stitched,
+round them up, and paste up the turnback; when dry, mark off the wave
+the full length, and sink the crease for the stitching. Go over all
+lined straps and turnback, after having marked off the wave or other
+pattern, with a sharp tickler, then heat the heavy sinker and finish
+the sinking. Slick the tallow off the crown and center pieces, cheeks,
+belly band and check rein billets, and spokeshave the edges to clean
+them thoroughly. Then fit up the check reins, round the points of the
+billets, take a light edge off the flesh side, but do not disturb the
+grain; dampen the edges with a sponge and water, rub them with a bone
+until they are smooth, and, when dry, black, and rub them with prepared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span>
+tallow, composed of one third part beeswax and two third parts pure
+beef tallow; rub them with a bone and then with a rag, so that the
+flesh side will be kept clean, crease the edges with a hot iron, crease
+and apply a little gum tragacanth (prepared by dissolving the gum in
+water and adding good black ink to give it color and preserve it), then
+rub with a bone.</p>
+
+<p>Proceed in like manner to fit up and finish the centercheck, belly band
+billets, cheek billets, and crown-piece billets, after which prepare
+the stock for the round check reins. First measure off three inches for
+laps at billet ends, next fourteen inches for rounds, then four and
+one half inches for laps at rings, and three quarters of an inch to
+round in; cut the laps at the ring down to full one half inch in the
+center, and taper each way; leave the full substance where the leather
+turns round the rings, hammer up and fill the rounds, and have them
+stitched before fitting up the laps. Then mark off and cut out the
+patent leather winkers, frogs, etc. Scratch the lines for stitching,
+black over, and rub in a little tallow where scratched, and go over
+with a heavy sinker, which will tend to improve the appearance after
+the stitching is done. Paste up the winkers, but be careful to avoid
+wetting the patent leather, as the water will cause it to lose its fine
+gloss; stitch up the joining seam, leaving about three quarters of an
+inch on the top edge near the corner for the winker strap; apply a
+little paste to the inside of the winker plate, shove it in between the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span>
+lining and the patent leather, and rub down on the outside with a
+gig or “jakee,” then apply a little paste to the inside where it
+goes between the cheek straps, and tack down on a board to dry. When
+thoroughly dry, trim off with a knife and spokeshave the edges; dampen
+them with a sponge and rub with a bone, allowing the leather to become
+dry before blacking. After being blacked, tack the winker in its place
+between the cheek-straps. Next mark out by the patterns the layers
+for the breeching, breast collar, neck piece, belly bands, and crown
+piece, cut them out and take down the edges with a wide edge tool, then
+spokeshave them to remove the ridges, wet and raise them on the raise
+block, rub off with a rag, crease with a double creaser, and then go
+over them with a sinker; when dry, black the edges and prick off. Cut
+out and raise the safes for the breast collars and belly bands, paste
+them on the folds, and when nearly dry double crease them; prick off
+when dry, have them stitched and afterwards trim them off, wet all the
+folds, hammer them down, put in the filling, sew up, crease the edges,
+and tack them on the layers.</p>
+
+<p>Finishing up the rounds is the next thing in order. Wet them and trim
+off the fillings, hammer down and pull them through the rounder, clean
+off with a spokeshave if necessary, black them, rub on a little tallow,
+pull them through the rounder again, and rub them down with a wooden
+rounder and a little gum. Wet the docks, hammer down the seams over a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span>
+wire, stuff with flaxseed, working it down with a wire, trim the edge
+with an edge tool, black it, and rub down with a wooden creaser to fit
+the seam; bend the dock to the required shape, and lay it aside to dry.</p>
+
+<p>Next punch the breeching, hip straps, and turnbacks, wet them, slick
+down the stitching from the back side, and rub the tops with a rag;
+crease the edges over with a hot iron creaser; trim the projecting
+edges of the turnback lining with a round knife, then take off a heavy
+edge with a spokeshave, and trim with a straight knife where it is
+necessary; dampen the edges with a moist sponge, and rub smooth with a
+bone; when dry, black them and rub on a little tallow, after which rub
+with a bone and a rag, and finish with a bone and a little gum. When
+the dock becomes dry, polish it with a hot burnisher and tack it on the
+turnback; have the laps stitched, trim and finish them up. Then trim
+and finish the shaft tugs, and polish the insides with a burnisher.
+Trim and finish the cheeks, put in the winker brace and stitch it. Trim
+the traces, punch and then wet them, slick them on the back, hammer the
+edges down with a “snob” or shoemaker’s hammer, and square them with a
+spokeshave; then with a heavy edge tool take the edge off the top and
+bottom, spokeshave them, trim the ends and around the dart holes with a
+straight knife, dampen the edges and rub them down with an awl handle
+(one that will fit the trace); when dry, black the edges, rub on the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span>
+tallow, and again rub with the awl handle; then rub off with a rag and
+afterwards with the awl handle and a little gum. Next finish the folds
+by wetting the backs, with a moist sponge, then slick them down, wet
+the tops a little and rub them down with a rag, crease the edges of the
+layers with a hot creaser, and recrease the folds. This completes the
+harness in detail, and offers a perfectly accurate guide for a workman,
+whether working by himself or in a factory.</p>
+
+<p>Uniformity can be obtained only by the use of good patterns, and it
+is to the interest of every harness maker that they be kept in good
+condition. To do this, cut them out of paper and paste them on thin,
+stiff patent leather, then, when the paste is dry, cut the leather to
+the shape of the paper patterns. All patterns for breechings, breast
+collars, neck pieces, belly bands, turnbacks, martingales, and crown
+pieces should be cut to the full length, and if cut at the same time to
+the required width it will obviate the necessity of moving them while
+marking off on the leather. The pattern for the trace wave should be
+cut one half the length of the trace.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER IX.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MAKING SINGLE STRAP<br> TRACK HARNESS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> single strap track
+harness owes its origin to the demand for a light, close-fitting,
+medium priced article for use on the trotting course. Originally the
+collar and traces only were made of single straps, the breeching and
+other parts being made in the usual manner. The superiority of this
+method of making the collar, however, soon became so apparent that the
+breechings and all other portions were made to correspond, and now few
+harness made up in other ways are used on the trotting tracks, while
+very many of this style can be seen upon trotters on the roads and
+pleasure drives, and so popular have they become that there are few
+sections of the country where they are not used to a greater or less
+extent.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_6" class="f120 spa2">HAME COLLAR, SINGLE HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_6.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="488" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span>
+Notwithstanding their being made up of single thickness of leather
+and in the plainest manner, the exercise of more than ordinary skill
+and attention is required to perfect them, as in their make-up they
+represent the minimum amount of weight, and yet must of necessity
+possess great strength. This result can be attained only by using
+leather of the best quality. Sides of uneven substance can not be
+employed to good advantage, owing to the fact that much of the
+strongest portion of the leather is necessarily wasted in reducing all
+the straps to a uniform thickness. Young steer-hides weighing about
+sixteen pounds to the side are the best: they not only give better
+satisfaction when made up, but they are more economical, owing to the
+small amount of waste incurred. But even with these sides only the
+backs should be used, as strength is the great end to be sought after.</p>
+
+<p>Having selected a side possessing the requisite qualifications, cut
+from the strongest portion the traces and all other straps except
+those for the breast collar, breeching, and bridle. These can be cut
+from lighter sides, those weighing from ten to twelve pounds being the
+best. When the single strap harness were first manufactured the breast
+collar and breeching bodies were cut from regular weight stock, and
+the edges skived off from the underside, but experience has shown that
+lighter sides are much more suitable, the leather being more pliant and
+stronger in proportion to its weight, the strapping when made up sets
+closer to the horse, and the edges do not roll after being in use for
+a short time. This latter qualification is of the greatest importance,
+and should of itself cause the use of light leather.</p>
+
+<p>When extra fine curried leather can not be procured, well tanned stock,
+treated as has been directed on page 55, will answer for all but the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span>
+finest grades, as it will possess the requisite strength, and in many
+cases can be given a fine finish. Let the leather be what it may,
+however, the flesh side should be well cleaned off and worked down with
+a slicker, as the slightest roughness would detract from the appearance
+of the harness, while adding to the possibility of injury to the horse
+from chafing.</p>
+
+<p>The most important parts of this harness are shown by the sectional
+drawings on <a href="#DRAWING_125">page 125</a>. I represents a section
+of the breast-collar, with trace attached. The trace, A, is of single
+thickness; the lap on the body is eleven inches long, cut as shown or
+to some other ornamental pattern. The ring to which the neck strap tug
+is attached is placed five inches from the end of the body; the trace
+is stitched on with from ten to fourteen stitches to the inch according
+to the grade of the harness. The neck strap tug is quite short, and is
+provided with a three eighth inch loop above the buckle, and a
+seven-eighth inch loop below. When made up to measure, the tug is often
+dispensed with, the neck strap being stitched to the ring, thus doing
+away with the buckles. In the finer grades the traces and bodies are
+neatly creased. The common qualities are in some instances made up
+without creasing, while in others the imitation stitch wheel is used
+for the purpose of ornamenting. The latest freak is to mark off in the
+same manner as though the layers were full length, and to lay up the
+ornaments in imitation of layers. The plain strap is, however, the most
+popular, looks the neatest, and is more easily kept clean.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="DRAWING_125">
+    <img src="images/i_125a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="157" >
+    <img src="images/i_125b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="376" >
+    <img src="images/i_125c.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="323" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span>
+A section of the breeching is shown by II, together with the breeching
+tug and buckle chape. The layer, A, is twelve inches long when made up.
+The end at the breeching ring is skived off so that the ring lap will
+be smooth and true. The tugs or braces, C, are most commonly rounded,
+but plain flat straps are also used; these are doubled and stitched, as
+they would neither be sufficiently strong nor keep their shape if of
+single thickness; the ring for securing the back tug is placed about
+eight inches from the breeching ring. The buckle chape, D, is provided
+with a loop over as well as below the buckle, though in cheap grades
+this may be omitted.</p>
+
+<p>A half section of the neck strap is shown by III. This is cut of plain
+leather, the end is cut straight a distance of about six inches, above
+which there is a waved section five inches long, the remaining portion
+being straight, but a little wider at the center than at the top of the
+wave. There is no stitching to be done on this strap, but a crease is
+run around it near the edge.</p>
+
+<p>A section of the outside belly band, or shaft girth, is shown by IV.
+The billet, A, is stitched to the body with the flesh side out, the
+buckle being laid under between the billet and the body, B, so that
+when the former is wrapped around the shaft, the grain side will be
+out. One end of the short belly band is shown by V. The buckle chape is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span>
+stitched on far enough below end to allow the latter to act as a safe.
+The safety-strap, a most important feature of a harness of this kind,
+is shown by VI. It is in fact an extra back-band, cut in one piece
+and placed over the saddle, with the ends buckled into the shaft tug
+buckles or into extra shaft-tugs, the former, however, being the most
+convenient form of attachment. The holes, A, are cut sufficiently large
+to allow the rein terrets to pass through them. In some cases the
+safety-strap is made up of a single thickness of leather throughout,
+but in others a lining about twelve inches long is stitched on to
+strengthen the strap at the terret holes.</p>
+
+<p>The whiffletree ends of the traces are lined for about one foot, or
+three or four inches more than the space occupied by the dart-holes.
+This is generally done by turning back the extra stock, the trace being
+cut the full length of the side. Three dart holes are cut in, about
+two inches apart, and the lined section, as well as the edges of the
+dart-holes, are stitched.</p>
+
+<p>The bridle used is generally a half-inch flat strap with small square
+winkers and a full or half Kemble Jackson check. All the straps on the
+harness require to be neatly rounded on the edges, and blacked and
+finished on the flesh sides.</p>
+
+<p>This harness is represented by Plate 1, engraved from a photograph of
+the celebrated trotting-mare Goldsmith Maid. The lengths and widths for
+cutting are given in table No. 1.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER X.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING<br> TEAM HARNESS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> making up
+team-harness there is as good an opportunity for a workman to display
+genius in designing and skill in execution as there is in making the
+most elaborate coach or fine, light carriage harness. The difference,
+however, being that in the one skill in decorating as well as in
+finishing are the primary points to be considered, while in the other
+adaptability, strength, and fit are first to be secured, after which
+attention may be turned to finishing and trimming. The idea is by
+far too prevalent that it requires but little skill to make a farm
+harness, and unskilled, cheap workmen are employed who could not make
+up carriage harness of any kind. A good, careful mechanic will not only
+make the team harness better than the careless one, but he will, with
+no more expense, give it a much finer finish, thus producing a more
+salable and durable article.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_7" class="f120 spa2">TEAM HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="420" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span>
+In selecting stock, be governed by the directions laid down in <a href="#Page_21">Chapter I</a>.
+Having chosen a side suitable for the weight of harness to be made,
+proceed to cut out the various straps by first straightening the back,
+and measuring off a strip from 18 to 20 inches wide; draw a line
+with a straight edge, and cut the side in two pieces; the back will
+contain the heaviest and firmest part of the leather, the belly and
+flanks that which is softer and more uneven. Before cutting out the
+straps examine the grain as well as the flesh side carefully, to see
+that there are no cuts or imperfect spots; too much care can not be
+taken in this respect, as a blemish, no matter how slight, will show
+after the leather is wet up and while being worked. If the harness
+to be cut is a heavy one select a large spread side which will weigh
+from twenty to twenty-two pounds, cut the traces and all other straps
+which receive the strain, from the back, the folds, chapes, etc., from
+the belly part. The traces should be cut 76 inches long and 1¾ inches
+wide; if the leather is even and of suitable thickness, filling will
+not be necessary. The breast and pole straps should be cut next after
+the traces, the former 66 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, the latter
+54 inches long and 1¾ inches wide. After the buckle is sewed on, slip
+on a ring for the collar strap. Cut the collar strap 34 inches long
+and 1 inch wide. Use wrought-iron cockeyes for the traces, and in
+addition to the stitching secure each buckle and ring chape with copper
+rivets; these relieve the stitching from much of the strain that would
+otherwise be put upon it. Cut the hame tugs from heavy, even leather of
+equal strength with that used in the traces; they should be 18 inches
+long after being fitted up, and of the same width as the trace; the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span>
+laps should not be less than 3 inches long. Use firm leather for the
+loops, channel on the back to allow the stitches to sink below the
+surface, and trim the edges a slight bevel. Cut the bottom hame strap
+of good, firm leather, 26 inches long and 1 inch wide; the top strap,
+28 inches long and 1 inch wide, of strong but more pliable stock, as it
+has to adjust itself to the shape of the top of the collar pad.</p>
+
+<p>Pads for these harness are made up in a variety of ways, the old style
+soft pad being the most desirable. Cut the top of good, even, and
+moderately heavy stock 22 inches long and 1¾ inches wide, narrow the
+ends to 1½ inches, tapering up 3½ inches; cut the ring piece 26 inches
+long by 1¼ inches wide, and round up 5 inches in the center; fit the
+ring piece to the pad top with the round well raised up, and place a
+martingale ring under the round for a tie strap ring; then stitch a
+ring on each end of the top. For the nut pieces cut straps 18 inches
+long and 1¾ inches wide, of heavy, firm stock. At the ends of the round
+ring piece punch a hole for the pad screw; 3½ inches from that point
+punch another for the back-strap loop. To make a showy pad, use a
+patent leather housing.</p>
+
+<p>The breeching folds should be cut from the smoothest part of the flank,
+and shaved down to an even thickness. If the harness maker will treat
+the folds as directed in regard to rein leather, he can produce a
+broken grain which will look much better than the plain leather, and
+will not so readily show checks from use. Cut the fold forty-four inches
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span>
+long and five inches wide. In all cases cut folds wider than the actual
+measurements, as the leather will narrow down in places while being
+worked; they can be cut to the required width, when ready for fitting
+up. Cut canvas of the requisite width and fill in the folds; coat the
+leather on the flesh side with tallow, and also apply warm tallow to
+the fillings. This will secure a durable job. Cut the back strap five
+feet long and one and a quarter inches wide; split it fifty two inches,
+leaving a short part uncut to wrap around the ring. If the leather is
+not heavy, use a wear leather where the back strap is attached to the
+hame rings. Stitch the hip straps to the rump rings before fitting up
+the bucklepiece. If a pad-safe is used under the rump ring, cut it half
+an inch wider than the rump strap, stitch it on with the edges even,
+and leave the swell end open, to permit its being stuffed with hair.
+For lead-ups for the breeching, use a six and one half inch chape of
+sufficient width for the buckle; cut the layer eleven inches long and
+seven eighths of an inch wide, with a hole under the buckle for the hip
+strap points to pass through. Use one and three quarter rings for the
+breeching and one inch ring for the center lead up.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the side straps from the center of the side, as it is necessary
+that they be of even thickness. These should be six feet long and one
+inch wide, leaving six inches for the turnback; fit up with two loops,
+and use a snap and a slide loop to hold the latter to its place.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span></p>
+
+<p>Make the belly bands of heavy folds, five and one half inches wide and
+eighteen inches long; lap the edges in the center, contracting the ends
+to the width of the buckle chapes; stitch through the center with one row.</p>
+
+<p>The bridles, though plain, are a very important part of a harness of
+this kind, and the workman who slights them makes a great mistake.
+They need to be larger than other kinds, as the horses they are used
+upon are heavier. The fronts should be sufficiently long to allow the
+crown pieces to lay one inch back of the root of the horses’ ears. A
+short front will draw the crown pieces forward and spoil the set of the
+bridle. Fifteen to sixteen inches should be the length used. The length
+of the crown is another important consideration; under no circumstances
+should it be less than twelve inches between the billet splits, the
+whole length being twenty-four inches. The cheeks should be seven
+eighths of an inch and throat latch three quarters of an inch wide. Cut
+the former thirty inches long; set the buckle above the winker. The
+winker braces should be cut fifteen inches long, rounded nine inches;
+cut the face piece twenty-one inches long, and split it ten and one
+half inches. All straps on the bridle other than the face and winker
+should be flat. Cut the inside checks sixty-one inches and outside
+checks twenty-six inches long, by three quarters of an inch wide; make
+up the outside with a ring for take-up. Use a plain leather winker, six
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span>
+by four and one half inches, with round corners and an oval end. These
+wear better and are less liable to be damaged than the square winkers.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the lines from the best part of a side weighing about sixteen
+pounds; see that there are no cuts on the grain or flesh side. Make
+them up flat, about twenty-four feet long and one inch wide. The inside
+or cross lines must be six feet six inches long; billets, twelve inches
+long; finish off the ends with a billet in such a manner that a snap
+can be attached if desired.</p>
+
+<p>The mountings, though of the plainest kind, must be strong, and
+in neglecting to procure those suited to the strain to be borne,
+harness makers often entail pecuniary loss upon themselves and
+injure their reputation. A weak buckle, ring, or hame, operates just
+as injuriously to the harness maker as though the leather used was
+inferior in quality and the workmanship poor. The trace buckles are
+subjected to a severe test, and unless they are strong and perfect they
+will not sustain the heavy strain put upon them. There are a variety of
+patent trace buckles in the market, and, owing to strong competition,
+prices have been very much reduced, so that manufacturers have been
+tempted to make them much lighter than they should be. It is necessary,
+therefore, to examine them closely, and to buy the strongest and those
+most easily adjusted. The hames, which are of wood, should be strong
+and of good shape, provided with extra rings for split back strap and
+loose loops at the bottom. The small buckles should be strong and of a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span>
+good pattern—that is, so shaped that the strap is not bent too much
+in passing through, and the edges are not borne too heavily upon. The
+common wire horseshoe buckle, which is used more than any other, is
+the poorest article in the market. The “Sensible” is a good buckle,
+and there are others which answer quite as well, a full description
+of which is given in the chapter on harness mountings. But of all the
+buckles made, there is none better than the large barrel roller-buckle
+for a draft harness: this possesses great strength, is easily loosened,
+and does not cut the strap in the least.</p>
+
+<p>The stitching throughout should be done with white thread, as it is
+much stronger than black; it can be colored easily when blacking up for
+finishing. Traces and tugs should have six or seven stitches; all other
+straps eight or ten to the inch. Coarse stitching is the strongest, and
+accords best with heavy harness.</p>
+
+<p>The above instructions, though ostensibly for a team harness, can be
+followed in a general way in making up all kinds of draft harness. The
+following practical working guide will be understood by the workman.</p>
+
+<p>Before doing any thing toward fitting up, see that every strap is cut
+and laid upon the work-bench. First skive down all the folds, wet them
+and slick them out, cut them to the required lengths, and skive down
+and shape ends; fold them and hammer them down; fill them with canvas,
+felt, or leather, and sew them up; then shape up the chapes, skive down
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span>
+the ends, punch the buckle-holes, and black and crease the edges; tack
+on the chapes and layers, and as soon as the leather is dry they can be
+stitched.</p>
+
+<p>Before stitching the folds, wet all the stock, allow it to dry a
+little, then slick it out, point up the straps, take off the edges
+where it is necessary, and crease while damp. If the edges are rubbed
+down at the same time, they will finish better when dry; but the
+blacking must not be applied until after the leather is dry. If folded
+traces are used, mark a line in the center on the flesh side, and with
+a gouge take out about one half the thickness of the stock. This will
+prevent the leather cracking when being bent over. If doubled and
+stitched traces are used, paste up, tack, and crease them, and lay them
+one side to dry. Fit up the breeching tugs, turn four inches; use loops
+one eighth inch narrower than the tugs. Crease and stitch the winkers,
+put some paste on the plates, and shove them in; rub down with a round
+end slicker, and tack them on a board to dry. Fit up the winker brace,
+wet it thoroughly, and bend it like the letter B; tack it down, and
+allow it to dry before being stitched in. Make all the laps on the
+bridle two inches long; lap billets, three inches.</p>
+
+<p>After all the straps are dry and stitched, trim the edges, using a
+spokeshave instead of glass to true them; black them, and then apply a
+little tallow and rub with a rag. Clean up the loops, and the harness
+will be ready to receive the final finish.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</span></p>
+
+<h3>HEAVY ORNAMENTAL TRUCK HARNESS.</h3>
+
+<p>Among the many devices resorted to for the purpose of advertising a
+special business is the use of display teams, the harness for which is
+made in the most expensive manner; and it is no uncommon occurrence for
+a four-horse set to cost $2000, or a single set to cost $1200. As all
+these harness are made up in special styles, according to the taste of
+the party ordering them, a general description is all that is necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The bridles are made up full coach style, the winkers square, with
+slightly-rounded corners; swivel gag runners are used, and the
+ornaments are alike on both sides; the cheeks, throat latches, and
+reins are cut three quarters of an inch wide; the winker braces are
+generally rounded; the face pieces are made with ornamental pendants,
+and are lined and stitched throughout. The entire bridle is fitted up
+with as much care as though designed for a coach harness. The metallic
+ornaments are of an appropriate design, to illustrate the business of
+the owner.</p>
+
+<p>The wheel harness have no pads; the crupper or back straps extending
+forward to the top hand straps; the crupper bodies are made with wide
+scroll safes, padded; the layers, which extend the entire length of the
+safes, are cut to a suitable ornamental pattern, made up martingale fashion,
+lined and stitched with four rows, fourteen to sixteen to the inch.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_8" class="f120 spa2">HEAVY DRAFT HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_8.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="409" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</span>
+The hip straps for each breeching are cut in one piece, having a swell
+two and a half inches wide, the split ends being one inch wide; between
+the ends there are ornamental pendants, which are cut out of the same
+strap, fitted up quite full, and stitched with four rows, the center of
+the frog being provided with a metallic ornament; the hip straps are
+secured to the crupper body by metallic screws.</p>
+
+<p>The breeching bodies are of solid leather, two and three quarter inches
+wide; the layer straight and stitched with four rows; the layers and
+hip straps are stitched fourteen to the inch; the tugs have full safes,
+with loops before and after the buckles; on each tug is an ivory ring
+in place of the ordinary breeching rings: they are put up the same as
+collar buckles, having loops for the tugs and trace bearer frogs, the
+latter being of some neat, appropriate pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The breeching straps act as pole straps as well, as they extend from
+the breeching to the neck yoke, and are provided with heavy straps
+at the pole ends, and attached to the breeching martingale fashion.
+Bearing straps are attached to the forward ends, and are secured to the
+harness by swivel snap hooks.</p>
+
+<p>The traces and safes are cut in one piece, the safe end being four
+and one half, the other portion two inches wide, and attached to the
+harness by a heavy loop and three plated-head rivets; they have three
+straight rows of stitches, ten to the inch.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</span></p>
+
+<p>The lead harness, bridles, traces, and collars are made up the same
+as those for the pole team, except that they are lighter; they have,
+however, pads, but no breeching. The former are of plain leather, cut
+in one piece, with swelled sides doubled throughout and made very firm,
+the bearing part lined and padded, and the tops stitched in the same
+manner as the tops of coach pads. The trace bearers are made heavy and
+strong, and in addition to being stitched to the pad by four rows they
+are each fastened by two pad-screws, to which are fastened ivory rings;
+rings are also attached to the top in the center of each pad through
+which the turnback passes to the hame straps. The cruppers are made up
+in the same manner as those of the pole harness, excepting that they
+are provided with billets for the docks; the latter are extra large.</p>
+
+<p>The loin straps are made up in the usual coach style, with swell ends
+and hip ornaments and trace bearers the same as those on the pole harness.</p>
+
+<p>The mountings are generally silver-plated, all the buckles being the
+“sunk bar.” The round reins are of russet, and the hand parts of heavy
+buffed leather. The collars are heavy, having piped throats, lined with
+thin harness leather.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XI.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MAKING GIG SADDLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Formerly</span> every harness
+maker made up his own gig saddles, and any general information on that
+line of manufacture was of great value, but of late years a large
+percentage made are by parties who carry on the business of saddle
+making exclusively, or in connection with winkers, fronts, etc., and
+but few harness makers can afford to make up the lower grades of
+saddles. There are those, however, who will not purchase ready-made
+saddles, and they would not think the manual complete without some
+instruction upon this very important branch of the harness business.
+To such the following plain details may prove of great value. The tree
+selected is the well known Tompkins, it being used more generally than
+any other.</p>
+
+<p>The covering of the seat is the first part to be performed. To do this
+and make a perfect job, fit up the tree; for no matter how well it may
+have been made, there may be rough spots on the iron, and the wood in
+the cantle may need to be reduced in thickness. After having thoroughly
+cleaned the tree, unscrew the seat and remove it from the frame;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</span>
+varnish it with shellac varnish to prevent its rusting, or, better
+still, draw on a piece of sheepskin. When it is dry, proceed to prepare
+and draw on the seat leather, as follows: Cut a piece of patent collar
+leather, of the size required for the seat to be covered, dampen it
+with warm water, but do not wet the varnish and avoid using too much
+water; stretch it to conform somewhat to the desired shape, put a tack
+on each side of the cantle, and clip the edges to admit of its being
+drawn down. Pull each way and cut off the surplus leather, then sew
+the parts underneath the seat with a cross stitch, after which pull
+up the cantle part and tack it all around to the wood. Cut a piece of
+leather of about the size and substance of the middle leather (this is
+to be removed when the jockeys are put on,) place it in position, and
+screw the seat to the frame in order to secure the seat leather firmly
+in its place; use a washer temporarily until the seat is screwed on to
+remain; then file off the projecting portion of the screw. When the
+seat leather becomes dry, put on the back pieces, draw the tacks from
+the cantle, cut off some of the surplus leather, dampen the part over
+the cantle edge, and with a pair of plyers set up the leather drawn
+over the cantle, clipping it where needed. Cut a piece of patent collar
+leather for the back piece of the cantle, of the same shape as the
+seat leather; fit it nicely, and punch holes for the crupper loop, and
+cut apart from the hole to the bottom; secure it in position by a few
+tacks, and prepare it for the binding. To do this, use a single thread
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</span>
+carefully in such a manner that the stitches will not show through the
+binding, paste the two upper edges together, and hammer to make them
+firm and smooth. When dry, cut off the surplus leather, leaving just
+enough to form a binding-edge, and with a very sharp edge tool trim the
+back part, and it will be ready for the binding. To bind, cut a strip
+of enameled leather, about seven eighths or one inch wide (cutting
+parallel with the grain to prevent the varnish from cracking) and of
+the proper length, which can be ascertained by stretching it over the
+cantle edge; skin one side to a thin edge, paste, and with a slicker
+turn down the edge one quarter of an inch, rub it down and crease it
+for stitching; then draw it over the cantle, tack one end properly and
+carefully adjust it in its place until the circle is completed and the
+other end secured in the same way. Regulate it with a slicker (which
+should be about one inch wide to work well), after which allow it to
+dry, and stitch as neatly as possible; when stitched, slick, regulate,
+and trim off the binding on the back part, black the trimmed edge, and
+it will be ready for the jockeys.</p>
+
+<p>To prepare the frame for the seat and jockeys, trim off the rough edges
+from the middle leather, cut two pieces of hard stock, about six inches
+long and of the same width as the depressions in the frame, skive down
+one end of each piece, and tack one in each of the depressions, with
+the skived ends toward the center; holes must be punched in them for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</span>
+the terret nuts, which should be secured with annealed or clout nails
+passed through the leather and clinched.</p>
+
+<p>To make the jockeys, take a pattern of the required size, made of
+heavy leather or sheet iron, scribe and cut the jockeys, if for a
+covered seat, in two pieces; if for a japanned seat, in one piece; for
+a covered seat, skive the parts that meet on the center of the tree,
+dampen with water, and bend them to fit nicely over the seat. After
+stitching the jockeys, take off the edge with an edge tool, black, and
+rub smooth, and polish with a little ballblack. When they are ready,
+tack them to the middle leather on the frame in their proper place,
+screw on the seat, file off the screw if too long, wet the front and
+back edges of the seat leather, carefully draw it down, tack the front
+and rear, then trim off all surplus leather, and it is ready for the flaps.</p>
+
+<p>The crupper loop should be covered before the seat and frame are put
+together. Cover it with plain or enameled leather, in the same manner
+as in covering a buckle or ring, and, when dry, stitch firm, trim off
+the edges, black, and rub smooth. To cut the flaps, patterns should be
+provided the same as for the jockeys; lay them on the leather, scribe
+around them with a round awl, and cut them out, true and smooth, with
+a sharp round knife; grease the under side with hard tallow, but do
+not allow it to touch the cut edges; immerse them in water for a few
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</span>
+minutes, then lay them aside until the water has softened the leather
+enough for it to receive the crease-mark; a little grease applied to
+the glazed side will prevent the creaser scratching. After creasing,
+allow them to dry, then bevel and black the edges.</p>
+
+<p>To flap off, cut the ends of the flaps to the requisite shape, so as
+to allow a portion to settle down in the depressions of the tree on
+the top of the stiffeners, leaving room for the back-bands; fit the
+parts nicely, butting them against the crupper, so that the jockeys
+will hit the guide marks on the flaps; place them so that the tree is
+in the center, and nail through the holes in the frames, clinching the
+nails on a flat iron. The back-bands being in their place on the flaps,
+adjust them on the tree, punch holes in them for the terret shanks,
+tack them fast, and secure the nuts with clout nails. After putting in
+the forepiece, sew down the jockeys. If the flaps are lengthened in
+front, the forepiece can be dispensed with when making cheap saddles.</p>
+
+<p>To make the leather loops, cut two pieces of thin harness leather,
+three and a half inches long and one and a quarter inches wide; also
+two other pieces of good leather, about as heavy as bridle leather, one
+inch wide by three and a quarter inches long; paste these on the thin,
+wide pieces, then cut four strips, a little more than one eighth of an
+inch wide, from the heaviest leather (as it is easier to paste before
+cutting); paste them three sixteenths of an inch from the outer edges,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</span>
+pat them down with a hammer, and allow the paste to dry; when dry,
+skive the ends, and they will be ready for the covering leather. Next
+cut a piece of good enameled leather of sufficient width to cover the
+body piece, shave down a little, slick out, cut in two pieces, paste
+them, and put them around the body piece; while damp, bind them over a
+piece of wood, three eighths of an inch thick on one edge, and, after
+adjusting them to suit the eye, tack them to dry; when dry, stitch them
+twenty to twenty-two stitches to the inch, and they will be ready to be
+put in the flaps.</p>
+
+<p>To lay up the points for stitching, rough out the upper pieces eleven
+and a half inches long and three quarters of an inch wide, if for a
+three-inch saddle or under, of good but not heavy leather; cut the
+linings one and a half inches shorter and of lighter material; wet the
+leather as directed on page 54, and when partially dry it will work
+easily. If the upper pieces are not of uniform thickness, place the
+heaviest ends next to the flaps; slick them smooth, lay on the pattern,
+mark it, and cut out the ornamental section that is stitched on the
+flap; skive down the uppers on the flesh side where they lay on the
+flaps, leaving the edge the heaviest just at the end of the latter, as
+they are liable to break at this point if not well protected. Round the
+lower ends and skive them down a little on each edge; for a good job,
+make the two parts a little oval by bending them over the edge of a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</span>
+board, or by rubbing them down in a groove, crease the edge, and
+afterwards crease for the stitching. Skive the linings on the edges,
+paste them and the tops together, smooth with a rubbing-rag, and
+let them dry, then stitch from ten to sixteen stitches to the inch,
+according to quality. When stitched, dampen the leather a little,
+slick down the under side, and crease the edges again; trim them to
+the desired shape, black them, and rub smooth with a rag containing a
+little tallow, and with a stiff brush clean off the stitches. They will
+then be ready to attach to the flaps.</p>
+
+<p>To make the back-bands, rough them out to the required length and
+width, using the best quality of leather (the upper piece should be of
+good substance, but the lining may be of lighter stock); dampen them
+in the same manner as directed for the points, lay the upper pieces
+together, and mark off twelve inches for the points and one inch for
+rounding, if the parts above the points are to be ornamental; if not,
+round four and a half inches, leaving the remaining portion flat, to go
+under the jockeys and be secured by the terrets. The ornament above the
+loop should be made to correspond with the other ornamental work on the
+harness. Skive the edges of the under pieces, and cut the tops to the
+desired width, leaving them a little wider at the loops; sew the rounds
+where the loops are to go very strongly, round up smoothly, and paste
+the top and linings together in good order above and below the loop
+rounds (some prefer to paste up before sewing the rounds). Crease up
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</span>
+for straight or ornamental stitching, whichever best suits the harness,
+and settle the mark for the stitches with a tickler. Where there is
+not enough substance to make a firm job, a middle piece can be used to
+advantage. Finish in the same manner as with the points.</p>
+
+<p>To make the pad, cut the lining to the required shape, using the best
+English serge, and the body piece of sheepskin or enamelled duck. If
+the former is used, it may be necessary to cut this piece a little
+smaller than when duck is employed, as it does not work up so much in
+sewing, and it is not necessary to take quite so deep a hold. Sew them
+together in the center with a few stitches on each side, to keep them
+in place, and scribe guide marks crosswise on the sheepskin or duck,
+to serve as guides for closing up the long cut after stuffing. Cut the
+facings of patent leather about one inch wide for all saddles under
+three inches, increasing the width for larger sizes. Be governed by the
+dimensions of the body piece in the length of the facings and fillings;
+the latter are preferably made of leather, but reeds are also used. In
+preparing the fillings, reduce them in the center at the hook, also at
+the ends, to make a good finish; baste the facings on the fillings with
+long stitches, having them a little damp. Sew them all together—the
+facings forming a welt, beginning at the center—with a strong thread,
+about four stitches to the inch; finish the ends neatly.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</span></p>
+
+<p>After sewing, cut the body piece lengthwise, turn the pad, and sew
+together with a long loop-stitch; the guide marks will assist
+materially in so joining that the original position is maintained;
+regulate the facings while damp. If there be sufficient time, tack
+the pad out on a board in the shape to suit the flaps, and smooth the
+facings with a half round creaser, the same as for any rounded piece,
+and let it remain until thoroughly dry before stuffing. In making
+common saddles this may be omitted, the whole being worked dry; but
+with a good saddle these points must be observed. Stuff from the center
+with well-beaten hair, a little at a time, working it evenly into
+its place, and keeping it compact and smooth with a round awl; after
+thus regulating it, quilt the pad up to the bearings, being careful
+to have each side correspond. Next sew the lining to the body piece,
+keeping the fullness of the lining drawn toward the lower ends of the
+pad; stuff the bearings, and work with a round awl until they are
+sufficiently full, then with a proper tool pound the pad where it is
+quilted and stuffed, and it is ready for the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>Before flapping, make the holes in the flaps for the loops, and
+prepare each of the latter for stitching. After the flapping is done,
+and before sewing down the jockeys, draw the loops in their places
+over the rounds of the back-bands and down through the holes made for
+them in the flaps, pulling them tightly to their places, and tacking
+temporarily with small tacks; sew them to correspond with the stitching
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</span>
+on the jockeys, punch holes through the top ends of the back-bands
+for the terrets, and nail them securely. Tacking is not absolutely
+necessary, but it serves to make a firmer job. After so doing, put in
+the terrets and hook, using annealed nails to secure the nuts, clinch
+them thoroughly, and sew down the jockeys. Trim up, regulate, and put
+in the pad, lace it thoroughly, clean off, and the saddle is finished.</p>
+
+<p>Where a change is necessary in the shape of the flap, or larger or
+smaller patterns are desired, strike a line lengthwise through the
+center of the pattern, then take a pair of dividers and lay out the
+shape or size preferred, working from the center-line; when the shape
+is secured, cut one side, fold the pattern together, and cut the other.
+In this way a true pattern is obtained, while no changes are made in
+the part that fits the tree. Alter the patterns for the body and lining
+to correspond.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XII.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM<br> HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> subdivision of labor
+and the improvements made during the past ten or fifteen years have, by
+making specialties of certain parts, such as pads, gig saddles, etc.,
+taken some of the harness maker’s work out of his hands, and enabled
+him to purchase ready-made articles at reduced prices, yet there are
+times when these must be made under the supervision of the manufacturer
+in order that they may correspond with all other portions of the harness.</p>
+
+<p>Patent pads, which constitute the greater portion of those made up
+for the regular trade, are constructed in various ways, and as their
+manufacture is confined to the patentees, no advantage would accrue to
+the harness maker by a detailed description of the manner of putting
+them together. Instruction, therefore, in this respect will be confined
+to a few of the hand made pads which best represent their respective
+classes; more than this it would be useless to do, as the variety of
+style and processes of manufacture are so varied.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</span></p>
+
+<h3>COACH AND CARRIAGE PADS.</h3>
+
+<p>By coach and carriage pads is meant all, whether light or heavy, that
+are designed for carriage harness in contradistinction to those used
+on team or draught harness. The process of manufacture is the same in
+all cases, whether the pad be light or heavy. Directions for making
+up will be confined to the pad, independent of the sides. The plates,
+which should be of wrought-iron, must be trued up, and the ends filed
+off thin and smooth. Cut out the top, punch the holes for the hook,
+terrets, and pad screws, blind stitch the ornamental portion, and
+stitch the pad plate lining to the top; trim off the edges to a sharp
+under bevel, then split the lining lengthwise, insert the plate, and
+whip stitch together with strong threads. Cut the socket piece of
+harness leather one half inch larger all around than the top; the
+point, or pole, as it is sometimes called, should extend from 1¼ to 1⅜
+inches below the end of the plate; in cutting allow at least ⅜ of an
+inch for fulness between the terret holes, and ⅛ of an inch between
+the terret and pad screw holes. Skive off the edges on the flesh side
+quite thin, and back ½ inch from the outer edge, punch holes for terret
+nuts, insert them, and rivet them in place; in like manner insert the
+nuts for the pad screws, and screw them in position by means of a small
+cap piece stitched on. Screw in the pad hook, place the nut piece in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</span>
+position, and pound down enough on the pad screw nut to obtain the
+exact size, then remove the nut piece, and cut away for the pad hook
+nut; then place the nut piece in position, screw in the terrets, insert
+a short piece of harness leather the same width and thickness as the
+pad side, and set in the pad screw (be careful to set the mock side
+in proper position); then, with a hammer, set up the bolt piece to
+the plate, work in all the fulness, and turn up the edges square and
+smooth, and set the pad aside to dry. After the leather is dry, cut
+the pad filling out of heavy felt, paste it on, and, when dry, trim to
+the required shape. Cut the bottom from light collar leather, moisten
+it on the flesh side, work it up smooth, and paste to the edges of the
+nut piece; when dry, trim off flush with the top, skive the edges quite
+thin, and paste on the binding, being careful to work it up smooth and
+even; when dry, stitch across the center, leaving the gullet piece
+about 1½ inches wide, then place the pad upon a block, and carefully
+stitch the binding; trim the edge, and black if necessary. Pads put up
+in this way are firm, and much easier to make than those in which hair
+is used for stuffing.</p>
+
+<p>The following directions apply to the manufacture of pads stuffed with
+hair. The routine for making is also somewhat different: Prepare the
+top and lining, and insert the plate as before directed, fit the hook
+and crupper loop in their proper places, bend the latter up so that it
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</span>
+meets the edge of the top, fasten the screw or nut piece with a pad
+screw to the top, and force it up in the center so as to obtain the
+requisite fulness, mark the holes for the screws and terrets, and also
+the outlines for the plate; make the pole 1¼ inches long, remove the
+nut piece, and punch the burrow holes by the lower edges of the marks;
+this will secure the necessary fulness in the center; skive off the
+edges of the nut piece, secure the burrs to it, and fit it up to the
+top with a hammer, being careful to turn the edges up true and smooth,
+and set it aside to dry; when partially dry, repeat the process so as
+to be sure that the edge is properly shaped; do not remove the top
+until the nut piece is perfectly dry. Cut the bottom piece out of
+collar leather; to get the proper size, make a pattern of sheepskin.
+This is done by dampening it very lightly, turning up the end around
+the gullet, tack it to the top, fit the other end around the pole, and
+tack it in like manner, then turn up the edge all around, and mark
+a line level with the top. This will give the exact shape without
+fulness. Remove this piece, and draw a line for the swell, the greatest
+fulness being opposite the center of the terret holes; taper gradually
+to the center and ends, then cut the bottom piece to the new line by
+the pattern upon the leather for the bottom piece, and cut it out. Cut
+a small piece out of the center in order to obtain fulness enough for
+the edges, whip together smoothly, turn the edges in the center and
+fasten with a few stitches, draw the ends down and fasten the points
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</span>
+with tacks, paste between the burrs and the lining on the edge, pop
+stitch together, leaving the ends open. Stitch across the center,
+leaving a space 1½ inches, paste the bottom to the edges of the nut
+piece, and, when dry, trim off to the required shape; paste the
+binding, and, when dry, stitch carefully; trim the binding close to
+the stitching, holding the knife so as to cut under in order to avoid
+showing a ragged edge. In stuffing, first work out the edge, then fill
+up the center, tapering off gradually to the point; close the ends and
+tuft the point, and fit up to the top for the last time.</p>
+
+<p>Fitting up the nut piece is the most important part of the work, and
+care must be taken to secure the requisite fulness to make a good job;
+also, to have the leather properly tempered so that it will retain the
+shape given it.</p>
+
+<h3>SOFT PAD.</h3>
+
+<p>A very large majority of the plainer lines of farm and team harness
+are made up with what is known as soft pads—that is, those without
+plates. The great number of styles makes it impossible, in a work
+of this kind, to give any more than a general notice, and as an
+illustration the one shown on <a href="#DRAWING_154">page 154</a> is selected.
+It is one of the best, and embraces the general principles by which all
+soft pads are made. The tops and sides are cut of one piece of heavy
+harness leather, forty-four inches long; and, if designed for a one and
+three quarter trace harness, it is cut one and a quarter inches wide in
+the center, two and a quarter inches at the pad bilge, two inches at
+the side bilge, one and a quarter inches at the narrowest point between
+the top and side bilges, and seven eighths of an inch at the bottom.
+Treat the leather the same as in making harness, and crease the edges
+with a double creaser.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="DRAWING_154">
+    <img src="images/i_154.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="373" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</span>
+The pad bottom is cut of good fold leather. In making the pad, cut
+a heavy piece of felt, nine inches long, for each side, of the same
+shape as the pad top, but about one quarter of an inch narrower. Cut
+extra pieces about five inches long to make the requisite fulness for
+the bilge of the pad; cover the felt with the pad bottom, and lace the
+edges of the latter together on the top (the pad bottom should be wet
+while being worked, so that it can be fitted up to a good shape); then
+secure it to the top by a single line of stitches, or by binding with
+fancy colored leather, allowing the binding to terminate at the bottom
+of the pad, or to extend across the top in the form of a fold as shown
+by X, part A.</p>
+
+<p>The pad trace bearer is shown by B; its full length is nineteen inches,
+width at top three quarters of an inch, and at the bilge one and a
+quarter inches; the upper end is attached to the pad top by a plated
+rivet, and stitched from four and a half to five inches from the end.
+The points are cut twelve inches wide and laid up on the pad side three
+inches, the lower ends of the trace bearers rest on the points and are
+stitched to them, one half inch bevelled plugs being placed between the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</span>
+two; the whole is further strengthened by copper rivets. A ring for the
+back strap is attached to the center of the pad by a chape stitched and
+riveted on.</p>
+
+<p>This pad is sometimes made up with a short plate, extending down far
+enough to receive the pad trace bearer, a terret being used instead of
+the rivet; when this is done, a loop check takes the place of the ring.
+The parts represented are: A, pad top section; B, pad side section; C,
+pad trace bearer; D, one line of the pad bottom; E, pad trace bearer in
+position.</p>
+
+<h3>PLAIN HARD PAD.</h3>
+
+<p>This, while being much firmer and stronger than the soft pad, is but
+little more difficult to make. It is designed for heavy wagon harness
+where terrets and hooks are to be used. A very good idea of its
+construction and appearance may be gathered from the illustration on
+<a href="#DRAWING_157">page 157</a>, which represents the various pieces
+drawn to one third their actual size.</p>
+
+<p>The top, which is shown by section 1, is cut out of heavy patent or
+harness leather; the openings show the positions of the pad screw and
+terret: this may be blind stitched if desired, but for general use it
+is quite as salable if left plain. If harness leather is used, trim the
+edges to a light oval and crease them with a fine creaser.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="DRAWING_157">
+    <img src="images/i_157.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="360" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</span>
+The bottom piece or lining is shown by section 2; this is cut of light
+harness or fold leather. The socket piece, the lower end of which is
+shown below the pad top 1, is cut to the same shape as the top, a point
+a little below the center of the hole for the pad screw, then it takes
+the shape designated by the dotted lines.</p>
+
+<p>The housing is shown by section 3. This is made of patent leather with
+a scolloped border bound around the edge, as shown by A; the square
+hole showing the space cut away to admit the back-band.</p>
+
+<p>The pad plate is shown by section 4. This is of wrought or malleable
+iron with threads cut in the holes for the pad screws and terrets; the
+crupper loop is cast or forged upon the plate.</p>
+
+<p>In making up this pad, cut the socket piece from patent leather, the
+same size as the plate, and secure it to the latter by means of copper
+rivets at the points designated by X, section 4; then draw over the
+bottom and tack it to the socket piece, the nails clinching as they
+come in contact with the plate; lap the ends of the bottom so as to
+obviate the necessity of using a separate gullet piece; then stuff the
+pad and place the housing on the socket piece; tuft the ends of the
+bottom socket and housing as shown by the cross lines on the lower ends
+of 1 and 3; then place the pad top in position, and secure it by the
+terrets and pad screws.</p>
+
+<p>The side pieces are always cut straight and creased or stitched; if
+trace bearers are used, the top ends are secured by the pad screws. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</span>
+housing is not a necessity with this pad, but it makes it more
+ornamental, and is therefore preferred by most buyers.</p>
+
+<p>Another style of pad which may be made up with or without pad plates
+or stuffed pad, is made by cutting a housing piece from heavy patent
+leather to the required shape, and covering it with soft collar
+leather. If no plate is used, the back strap, which is perfectly
+straight and about one and one quarter inches wide, is stitched to
+the pad piece before the latter is covered; a chape is attached to
+the center for the back strap ring, or a loop check hook may be used
+instead; four rivets, with round heads, are used to strengthen the pad
+and to give it an ornamental appearance.</p>
+
+<p>A plain pad, which is used to a considerable extent in New-York upon
+team harness, is made of two strips of harness leather; one, forming
+the pad and sides, is cut two and a quarter inches wide and fifty-six
+inches long, the points one and an eighth inches wide and ten inches
+long; the layer is cut seventy-nine inches long and one and an eighth
+inches wide; this is stitched to the pad twelve inches each side of
+the center; the lower ends are placed even with the bottom ends of
+the points, and stitched to them and three inches up on the sides,
+the fulness thus secured to the layer makes it answer for a pad trace
+bearer; small brass head rivets are placed in the center of the layer
+the whole length between the points at intervals of about three inches.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</span>
+The layer may be left loose in the center, forming a loop for the back
+band to pass through, or a billet and ring may be attached instead. A
+thin pad, made of two thicknesses of felt and fold or collar leather,
+can be added if desired.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <p id="PLATE_9" class="f120 spa2">GEORGIA WAGON HARNESS.</p>
+    <img src="images/plate_9.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="398" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIII.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Harness makers</span>  have
+three kinds of leather loops to select from—the hand made, patent,
+and pressed. The first are undoubtedly the best, and are used in
+preference to all others upon fine harness, some leading manufacturers
+using no other kind. Some makers of medium grades also use them to a
+considerable extent; but if well made they are too expensive for common
+work, and when poorly constructed are inferior to the other kinds.</p>
+
+<p>Patent loops are made by being pressed up in hot dies, and are sold to
+the trade in every needed size and in a variety of styles. Being nicely
+finished and much cheaper than hand made loops, they have taken their
+place on medium grades, and are also used to a great extent upon common
+harness. Pressed loops are those made up in the workshop, and shaped
+by means of dies and presses after they are stitched upon the straps.
+The making of these and hand creased alone interest the workman, as the
+patent loops are ready for use at the time of purchase.</p>
+
+<p>Hand made loops possess several advantages over other kinds; they are
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</span>
+more durable, and, owing to the manner of making them, are less uniform
+in style of creasing than those made by dies.</p>
+
+<p>Care in the selection of stock is the first requisite in making
+good loops, and the workman is referred to the description of the
+various qualities and kinds given on page 36. Next in importance is
+the tempering of the stock in water so as to bring it to a condition
+where it can be easily worked and yet retain the full impression of
+the creasing irons, which it will not do if either too wet or dry. The
+general rule is to soak the leather until thoroughly moistened, then
+remove it from the water, and allow it to become surface dry before
+creasing. Some workmen prefer to moisten the leather but a little
+before stitching on, and afterward temper it by the use of water and a
+sponge; if, after being stitched on, the leather is found to be too dry
+to work well, the fault can be remedied by the use of a moist sponge.
+Owing, however, to the marked difference existing in the texture and
+fibre of each separate side of leather, and to the various portions of
+a single side, there can be no fixed rule given as to the preparation
+of it, and the workman must be governed solely by experience. As has
+been stated in another chapter, there are certain signs and indications
+which furnish an exact guide to the workman, but they are of a nature
+which can not be described, and it is his duty to pay strict attention
+to the minor details if he would meet with success in the leading features.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</span></p>
+
+<p>In order to secure a perfect-shaped loop, it is absolutely necessary
+to allow sufficient fulness in the leather to permit the corners being
+worked up full and square on the outside. To accomplish this, a fulness
+of about ⅜ of an inch over and above the width of the loop stick
+should be allowed to a 1¼-inch loop of ordinary thickness, increasing
+or diminishing the same as the width or thickness is increased or
+diminished. This extra leather must be worked up and outward to the
+corners, so that when the loop is completed they are full and square,
+otherwise they will be thin and weak at the very point where the
+greatest strength is required.</p>
+
+<p>Hand creased loops are commonly attached by stitching both sides
+before creasing. Another method which is preferred by many workmen, as
+it obviates much of the difficulty arising from the leather becoming
+too dry before it can be creased, is the employment of a clamp in
+connection with the loop stick. When this is used, an iron loop stick
+is substituted for the wooden one. The back clamp iron is made the full
+length of the loop stick, and ⅛ of an inch wider; at either end there
+is an ear, which projects about 1 inch above the back iron, the ends of
+which are bent over so as to cross the back iron at right angles; holes
+are drilled through the ends directly over the center of the back iron:
+these are threaded and provided with a thumb screw. When used, the back
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</span>
+iron is placed against the back of the strap, and the thumb screws
+tightened against the loop stick, holding the latter and the leather
+firmly together. In securing the loop, one side is stitched in its
+place and the other properly inserted, after which the screws are
+applied and the whole held in position until the loop is creased and
+finished, after which it can be stitched fast.</p>
+
+<p>If the ordinary loop stick is used, both sides must be stitched fast
+before the stick is inserted, care being taken to allow the requisite
+fulness. First work up the sides with a slicker, then rub down the top,
+and continue to work both sides and top until the leather is pressed
+firmly against the loop stick, always working toward the corners to
+keep them full, then trim the ends perfectly true, and run the edge
+creases with a hot creaser, after which trace off the pattern and
+outline it with a fine tickler, then crease up with suitable tools:
+these can be kept hot and clean by laying the ends upon a metallic
+box heated by gas jets or an alcohol lamp, the handles resting upon a
+wire support. The secret of success in creasing loops is to define all
+corners and outlines correctly before the leather becomes too hard to
+receive an impression easily, the working up of the pattern afterwards
+being comparatively an easy matter. After the pattern is well worked
+up, remove the loop stick and insert an iron one which has been heated
+as hot as it can be without danger of burning, then color the leather
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</span>
+with iron and vinegar black, and work over the entire loop with warm
+creasers and slickers until the leather is perfectly dry. By this
+process the surface will receive a fine polish, and if the color is
+good no further operation is needed. If a better black is required,
+allow the loop to remain unmolested until thoroughly seasoned, and
+apply a slight coat of hatter’s black, and, when dry, polish with a
+silk rag. A loop which has been well worked will not be improved by the
+use of varnish of any kind. If the loop is properly made it will be
+solid and entirely free from grain cracks, the corners full and sharp,
+the ornament well raised and correctly defined. A soft loop is an
+evidence of a lack of skill, or of carelessness, upon the part of the
+workman, for if the leather is in proper condition and worked up as it
+should be, it will become firm and hard.</p>
+
+<p>Pressed loops are the cheapest, and when well made appear nearly as
+well when new as the other styles. There has been a marked improvement
+in the manner of making them within a few years, and it is difficult,
+in some cases, to detect the difference between them and the patent
+loops. The same care is necessary in regard to providing fulness in
+the leather sufficient to produce square corners as is recommended in
+the case of hand made loops. They are needled on, and by the exercise
+of a little ingenuity the awl holes on the side last stitched may be
+so placed as to be almost undiscernable when the loop is fully pressed
+up. The machinery and appliances necessary for pressing up these loops
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</span>
+consist of a good screw press, a metallic box with open ends, the sides
+being about 3 inches high on the inside, and the width for other than
+pressing cheek loops 3 inches wide in the clear; for cheek loops a box
+fully wide enough to admit the winker is necessary; in one side of
+the box place two thumb screws about 1½ inches from the bottom, one
+within 2 inches of each end; in addition small side plates are needed
+to be placed between the sides of the box and the loop, also plates to
+be placed upon the bottom for raising or lowering the loop according
+to its thickness; iron loop sticks, and the top stamps or dies. In
+pressing, the loop stick is placed in its proper position, the strap
+laid in the box, and the side screws tightened up until the leather is
+pressed firmly against the sides of the loop stick, after which the die
+is placed in position and the screw pressure applied to the top. It is
+necessary to screw the side plates well up or the heavy pressure on the
+top will cause the loop to spread on the top edge. Two minutes under
+the press is all that is necessary to secure a firm loop even with
+cold irons. By the exercise of a little ingenuity in designing dies, a
+variety of patterns may be produced and cheap harness relieved of the
+sameness now so prevalent. With pressed as with other loops, much of
+the success in their production depends upon the leather being properly
+tempered. After the loop is seasoned, color it with vinegar and iron
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</span>
+black, and when dry rub with a woolen cloth, after which it may be
+finished the same as hand made loops. By the use of a box of this kind,
+together with dies, small loops may be made similar to the patent ones,
+and of patterns to match the large ones.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIV.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">STITCHING HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> stitching harness two
+objects are to be attained—strength and ornamentation. The first is
+secured by the use of thread of the required size to suit the work to
+be done, making it up properly, employing an awl that is neither too
+large nor too small, and drawing the work well together. The second,
+by laying the stitches in an artistic manner so that, when the work is
+finished, the lines of the pattern are well maintained and the stitches
+of a uniform length and laid true.</p>
+
+<p>The first point to be considered is the selection of the linen thread
+or silk, and the proper manner of making up the strand. Thread as now
+sold in the market is designated by numbers; the sizes used by harness
+makers are Nos. 0, 10, 3, 12, and 5, the latter being the finest used;
+Nos. 6 and 19 are of the same size, but of different colors, 5 being
+black, 6 white, and 19 yellow. These sizes should be used in such a
+manner as to secure the greatest strength. The rule adopted is to grade
+the thread according to the number of stitches to be employed. No. 0,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</span>
+which is the coarsest, should be made up with four strands, and be
+used where the stitches number eight or under to the inch; No. 10 is
+a little lighter than No. 0, and is used in the lightest work; where
+the stitching is not more than ten nor less than eight to the inch,
+three strands are used. No. 3 is also used where the stitching ranges
+from eight to ten to the inch, it being finer than either 10 or 0; four
+strands are required for all ordinary work; for ten to sixteen to the
+inch No. 12 is used, four strands being required. When the stitching
+is as fine as eighteen to the inch the same number is used, but only
+three strands; for all work finer than eighteen stitches No. 5 is the
+only thread used; this is made up with three or four strands, according
+to the character of the work to be done. These numbers represent the
+ball thread; skein thread, however, varies but little in size with
+corresponding numbers, but, owing to its being smoother, it appears
+finer. For all heavy work the ball thread answers equally as well as
+the skein; but in making up, the thread, while being twisted, should be
+well rubbed with the awl handle in order to remove the irregularities.
+Where the work to be done is fine and first-class in every respect, use
+the skein thread. White thread is preferred, by harness makers who have
+tested its merit, on heavy stitching, owing to its possessing greater
+strength than the colored.</p>
+
+<p>Having selected the requisite number of thread, the next thing is to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</span>
+break off the strands, wax and twist them up; unless this is well done
+the work will prove a failure. In running off each strand, it should
+be examined to prevent any hard, irregular spot being twisted up in
+the thread; in most cases the little lumps which are found are loose
+and can be removed without injuring the thread; where this can not be
+done, break it off and start anew. For stitching all articles like
+traces or other long straps, long threads are desirable in order to
+avoid starting with a new thread in the body of the work. Ten to eleven
+feet, however, is as great a length as can be used to advantage, and
+even this is liable to become weakened by the constant wear before
+being used up. In making a thread, untwist and pull apart the strand at
+the end, throw the center over a hook, and untwist and pull apart for
+the first strand; repeat this operation until the required number of
+strands are obtained. Untwisting before breaking the thread is a matter
+of much more importance than is generally supposed. If carefully done,
+the fibres are separated but not broken, and a smooth, regular, tapered
+end can be obtained; but if broken off, the end will be irregular and
+cause annoyance in threading the needles or attaching the bristles.</p>
+
+<p>There is much difference of opinion as to the manner of waxing; some
+claim that no wax should be used until the strands are well twisted
+together, then they should be rubbed until the thread is well filled,
+after which it should be rubbed with a cloth to remove all surplus wax.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</span>
+Others claim that the principal part of the waxing should be done
+before twisting, and that the only benefit derived from using wax on
+the surface is to preserve the thread from injury by the friction
+occasioned by drawing it through the holes in the leather. A careful
+examination of the thread after having been used in stitching, would
+seem to give support to the latter method of making up, as it is found,
+upon cutting apart, that the amount of wax left on the surface is so
+small as to preclude the idea of its being any advantage either as to
+strength or resistance to the action of water, while strands which
+had been well waxed before twisting retained all but the surface wax.
+Fine threads may be made up according to the first plan, but all heavy
+threads should be well waxed before twisting.</p>
+
+<p>After the strands are all broken off, rub them well by giving one turn
+around the awl handle and rubbing it back and forth, then apply the
+wax, and twist up moderately firm. A thread may be injured by twisting
+too firmly as well as by leaving it loose. In the first instance it
+will not take the wax well and wears away rapidly; in the second, the
+strands are likely to open and show after the stitch is laid. The
+workman must therefore depend upon his own judgment as to the proper
+amount of twist to be given. The best is the ordinary shoemaker’s black
+wax, which is made of equal parts of pitch and tallow, and is a good
+wax for general use; but this is too hard for winter, when a larger
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</span>
+percentage of tallow is required, making the proportions one pound
+of tallow to three quarters of a pound of pitch. Various degrees of
+hardness may be obtained by changing the proportions. This, however,
+will not answer for white or light-colored thread. A good wax for this
+purpose can be made of refined pitch and tallow, the proportions to be
+governed by the degree of hardness desired. Ordinary yellow and white
+wax are also used for light thread, but they are not as good as that
+made of pitch.</p>
+
+<p>Stitching, to appear well, must be regular, each stitch being full,
+defined, and of equal length. The use of the prick wheel assists
+materially toward producing the last result, but unless the workman
+handles his awl correctly irregularities will occur. Tastes differ as
+to the best position for the stitches. There was a time when straight
+stitching was ignored by all leading manufacturers on account of its
+resemblance to machine work, but the improvements in the latter soon
+made it possible to imitate any hand stitch, and the straight stitch
+has once more become popular. The custom now practiced by leading
+manufacturers is to lay all heavy stitches ten or less to the inch at
+a moderate angle, using a diamond-shaped awl; to secure uniformity the
+awl is held in a position which brings a face of the angle on a line
+parallel with the top of the jaw of the stitching-horse; to render this
+result certain, a portion of the handle is flattened to correspond with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</span>
+the angle on the awl. If the stitching is sixteen or less to the inch,
+the angle is reduced, but the same precaution is taken to secure
+regularity. All stitches where there are more than sixteen to the inch,
+are laid straight.</p>
+
+<p>The manner of drawing up the stitches has much to do with their
+uniformity: drawing harder on one thread than on the other will produce
+irregularity. A common fault with stitchers is to tighten the thread
+with one motion as soon as it becomes short enough for them to do so;
+this is a serious fault, as it is impossible to lay the stitches even.
+No matter what the length of the thread, the tightening up should
+always be a distinct motion. If the stitches are to be flat, the force
+applied to both threads should be equal; but if a full stitch is
+desired on the face side, the thread bearing against the under side
+should be drawn the tightest; care must be taken not to draw upon this
+thread enough to draw out the channeling. Stitchers are apt to draw the
+thread in the awl hand the tightest, and it requires some practice to
+overcome this difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>When performing a piece of work where the stitches are equally exposed
+from both sides, it is necessary to change the position of the thread
+on the side opposite the awl hand, or the work will be irregular, and
+it will be an easy matter to determine which is the right side. To do
+this work properly, enter the needles, and when that on the left side
+is drawn nearly out, bring the loose thread forward, and throw it over
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</span>
+the needle, and tighten up in the usual manner. If care is taken to
+throw the thread over, the work will appear nearly as well upon the
+reverse as upon the right side.</p>
+
+<p>The points to be observed, therefore, are: to drive the awl through at
+right angles with the face of the leather, holding it so that it will
+always enter the leather in the same position; to draw the threads
+carefully, so that each stitch is set in at a uniform depth, and the
+fulness retained on the outside. When the work is well fitted up, it
+will not require much power to set the stitches correctly. Around
+buckles, when the laps have not been previously worked together, it
+will require more force to draw the straps together; but under no
+circumstance should the stitches be buried into the leather, as this
+has a tendency to weaken rather than strengthen the work.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</span></p>
+  <h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XV.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MAKING ROUND REINS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> very general use of
+round reins and their effect upon the appearance of the harness render
+it necessary that the most approved manner of making up be thoroughly
+understood, and entitle this branch of harness making to a separate
+notice. In preparing the following instructions, the grade of round
+russet reins known as No. 4 has been selected as the one embracing the
+various manipulations more thoroughly than any other, covering as it
+does all the essential points.</p>
+
+<p>Good stock is indispensable to success, and care should be taken
+to secure smooth, fine-grained, and well tanned rein leather, the
+different qualities of which are clearly described in the chapter on
+“Russet Leather,” <a href="#Page_33">page 33</a>. Cut the leather seven eighths
+of an inch wide, and of the full length of the side; soak it in clean water for a
+few minutes, and remove a thin shaving from the flesh side; then lay it
+out straight upon the board, grain side down, moisten slightly with a
+sponge and clean water, and shave down to the required thickness; slick
+down nicely while the leather is damp, and measure off five inches from
+one end for the billet and stop, and five feet six inches from this
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</span>
+point for the round, with an additional five and a quarter inches
+for the handpart lap. Measure off on the rein seven eighths or three
+quarters of an inch, or whatever size may be necessary, for the billet;
+lay the rein out on the board with the grain side up, secure it firmly
+with awls, and with a channeling tool, held firmly in the hand, channel
+the five feet six inches which are to be rounded; trim each edge with
+an edge tool, as by so doing considerable work, that would otherwise
+have to be done with the spokeshave, can be saved and a better job
+produced. Cut the width of the billet—which is five inches—on the
+edge of the rein, edge it with a small edge tool, stain and rub the
+edges until a good polish is produced, then with a seven-eighth inch
+buckle punch make the hole for the buckle about three inches from
+the end, and with a round knife trim down nearly to a feather edge;
+turn the rein about, and stamp with a die, or mark off to a suitable
+pattern—four waves running to a point is a good one—stain the edges,
+and rub them well, then with a wide edge tool trim them slanting, so as
+to leave a raise in the center. Both sides being finished as directed,
+dampen the leather with a moist sponge, and with a raising block raise
+the handpart end lightly; if raised too much, rub down with a clean
+piece of paper, then with a double creaser sink the creases well, and
+prick off with a No. 14 prick-wheel, after which rub the edges smooth.</p>
+
+<p>The rein is now ready for the stop, which is made of two pieces of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</span>
+clean stock dampened and shaved down to the required thickness, then
+pasted together and allowed to dry; when perfectly dry, cut out with a
+die, or to a pattern, an egg-shaped or other design; stitch the stop,
+trim off the back edge with an edge tool, dampen the edges lightly,
+apply the stain, and rub until a good smooth surface and polish are
+produced. Heat a narrow iron creaser quite warm over a gas or other
+light, crease the edges, and rub them with a rag until they are smooth.
+Trim the ends of the stops down thin.</p>
+
+<p>Next prepare the billet, which is thirteen and one half inches long, by
+dampening it well and rubbing it down solid with a slicker; cut out the
+end of the billet with a half round punch, and with a small edge tool
+take the edge off each side to one half the length, then stain, and rub
+smooth with a cloth. Mark off one and one half inches to go into the
+round of the rein, and five inches more for the stop; crease up the
+billet and punch with a No. 6 round punch, dampen the end that enters
+the rein so that it will work easily, trim down to a feather edge, and
+then pound down to the mark, so that the stitcher can more easily pull
+the round up tight; this being done, tack the billet to the rein and it
+is ready to be stitched.</p>
+
+<p>The billet, as has been stated, is marked off five inches, three inches
+of which are for the half-inch loops before and behind the buckle; this
+part is channeled the width of the box loop, and a space of one half
+inch each way from this loop is stitched with seven or eight stitches,
+drawn tight; these make the rein firmer, and give it a better finish.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</span></p>
+
+<p>After the billet is stitched, the rein is ready for filling up. To do
+this, first see that the filling is thoroughly wet, so that it can be
+shaved down evenly, and, when the rein is closed up, can be pounded
+down to a true and smooth round. In filling up, care should be taken
+not to dampen the rein too much, for if too wet the leather can not be
+trimmed off smoothly with a spokeshave, and when dried out it becomes
+hard and brittle; also, when filling off, the channel, instead of being
+close and smooth, will raise and become uneven. The proper course is
+to dampen it with a sponge, and pound down immediately. To do this,
+take a large awl, run it through one of the holes in the billet, fasten
+the rein to the board, and, with a shoemaker’s hammer, pound one edge
+down to the end of the rein; then turn the rein over, commence at the
+same point as before, and pound the other side down; in this way the
+rein is evenly prepared to receive the filling. In placing the latter
+in position, always put in the longest pieces at the commencement, and
+use the short pieces down at the neck of the rein. At the end, where
+the handpart is sewed in, put in an end piece, or sew the handpart into
+the round; either will do, but the former is the better plan. After the
+rein is closed, if a little dry in places, dampen it slightly with a
+sponge, then trim off with a large-sized edge tool, and also trim off
+the filling close to the rein; then pound down on a board iron made for
+this purpose, having a half round groove in which to place the rein.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</span>
+The use of this groove materially lessens the labor and helps to secure
+a good round. Some workmen use a flat stone or board iron without a
+groove, but it is poor policy to do so, as it has a tendency to flatten
+the leather where it bears upon the stone.</p>
+
+<p>The rein is now ready to be rounded up, which is done by pulling it
+through the rounding machine three or four times, after which trim off
+the edges with a sharp spokeshave as round and evenly as possible;
+dampen the rein slightly with a moist sponge, pull it through the
+rounding machine three or four times more, and then with a hand rounder
+rub up and down all over the round, the object being to touch all the
+parts that the machine has failed to reach, thereby making them smooth.
+Then, with a sponge and a solution of oxalic acid, clean off the rein
+and hang it up to dry. When dry, or nearly so, apply a small quantity
+of a stain made of anotta and saffron in the proportion of one pint
+of the former to a half gill of the latter. After dampening the reins,
+block up the loops, trim nicely from the end of the rein to the box
+loop, stain, and rub down smoothly; dampen the round slightly with the
+stain, and rub briskly until a nice, smooth polish appears. In order to
+preserve the color on the rein, dissolve shellac in alcohol, and with a
+clean sponge apply it to every part of the rein; this, in addition to
+preserving the color, produces a good lustre on the leather.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</span></p>
+
+<p>Rein ends can be made up in a variety of styles, but the general
+directions for manufacture are the same. Their use is to prevent the
+Martingale ring coming in contact with the buckle, or bit ring, where
+it will catch fast, and at the same time provide a neat ornament
+for the end of the rein. In cutting the harness maker should aim to
+make them not less than one quarter of an inch wider than the inside
+diameter of the Martingale ring. <a href="#FIG_15_1">Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4</a>
+show four patterns, all but fig. 4 being made up as previously directed.
+This is made without buckles, but a small piece of steel is bent at the point
+where the rein joins to the ornament, which is stitched in between the
+straps. This steel hook is sometimes used with other styles of rein ends.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_15_1" src="images/fig_15_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="207" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p>
+    <img src="images/fig_15_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="215" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p>
+    <img src="images/fig_15_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="185" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p>
+    <img src="images/fig_15_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="227" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVI.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> manufacturing
+bridles, the harness maker has an excellent opportunity to exercise
+taste in designing and embellishing, for in no part of the harness
+is there so much opportunity given to introduce new ideas without
+interfering with the proper shape of the article; then, too, they are
+the most ornate part of the harness, and there is less liability to
+overdo in decoration. The winkers may be made in a variety of styles,
+stitched plain or in fancy patterns; the cheeks can be finished up in
+different ways, while the crowns, face pieces, fronts, gag runners,
+nose and chin pieces are all susceptible of a variety of changes in
+form or finish. There is no portion of a coach harness more difficult
+to make, and for that reason the bridle maker holds a high position in
+the business.</p>
+
+<p>The general details for making are given in connection with the
+instructions for making harness in a previous chapter. Attaching the
+winkers to the cheeks must be done in the best manner to prevent them
+from “hinging;” always clean off the gum where the patent leather
+enters the cheek pieces, so that the paste may adhere, and skive off to
+secure a smooth job.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_1" src="images/fig_16_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="334" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_16_2" src="images/fig_16_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="300" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</span>
+The most popular patterns for coach winkers are the slightly ovaled
+end and the full oval. For light buggy and road harness, square or
+square with round corners are preferred. Coupé, team, and heavy express
+winkers are similar to those used for coaches, while for wagon, cart,
+and other cheap harness the square pattern is preferred. The various
+plates in this book will give the reader a good idea of the popular
+form for winkers, though other styles are also used to a considerable
+extent. The illustrations of bridles in connection with this chapter
+show some of the distinctive patterns in detail. <a href="#FIG_16_1">Fig. 1</a>
+represents the English coach bridle with the oval winker. This is
+the popular style for all coach and heavy coupé harness, though no
+exclusive pattern of winkers, cheek loops, or crown piece layers is
+followed. It is known as the bradoon swivel, the peculiarity being the
+attaching of the check rein to a billet stitched to the crown piece,
+passing it through a swivel on the bradoon bit, thence up to the gag
+runner. The cuttings are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb1 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Ends, split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199; &#8199;6½</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Layer</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Gag runners</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">28</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose and chin piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">33</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">29</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Made up between buckles&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bradoon rein</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Center rein</td>
+      <td class="tdc">60</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">27</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown billets for bradoon rein</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Face piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Winker strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="r50">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_3" src="images/fig_16_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="318" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_16_4" src="images/fig_16_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="304" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 4.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</span>
+The narrow loops and center bar buckles give this bridle a showy
+appearance, but the regular buckles and pipe cheek loops are the most
+popular. With this and all other bridles where the face piece is used,
+a thin piece of steel should be attached to the under side to keep it
+in position.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_2">Fig. 2</a> represents another style of bradoon
+bridle, in which the bradoon bit is attached to a round cheek piece,
+and the swivel is dispensed with. It is claimed that a bridle of this
+kind causes the horse less pain, while being equally as effective as a
+check. The lengths for cutting are the same as those for  <a href="#FIG_16_1">Fig. 1</a>,
+with the exception of the round cheeks, which must be ten inches long between the buckles.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_5" src="images/fig_16_5.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="312" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_16_6" src="images/fig_16_6.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="297" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_7" src="images/fig_16_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="301" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 7.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_16_8" src="images/fig_16_8.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="358" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 8.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</span></p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_3">Fig. 3</a> represents a third style of bradoon bridle,
+the extra cheek being flat.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_4">Fig. 4</a> is also a bradoon bridle, but differs from
+the preceding ones in the manner of attaching the gag runner.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_5">Fig. 5</a> represents a plainer style of bridle,
+suited to the lighter grades of coach and road harness.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_6">Fig. 6</a> is designed for light double harness;
+one of the plainest kinds in use.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_7">Fig. 7</a> represents a very neat bridle for single
+or light double harness.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_8">Fig. 8</a>, a plain bridle with a half Kemble-Jackson check.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_9">Fig. 9</a>, a heavy bridle for a team harness;
+the tugs on the ends of the cheeks are cut of patent leather, and may
+be ornamented with monograms or initial letters.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_10">Fig. 10</a> is designed for a team bridle,
+but is made up without winkers; the cheeks may be made as represented,
+or rounded. The latter appear much the lightest. The face piece may be
+flat or round. The most popular style of finishing is to round the ends
+below the face ornament, leaving the upper part flat.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_16_11">Fig. 11</a> represents a plain team harness
+bridle without winkers, the cheeks made up with patent leather
+ornaments and without buckles; the crown, cheeks, and throat latch
+billets are cut of one piece; the ornaments are stitched to the cheeks
+at the front piece, and held in position by two loops; or the patent
+leather ornaments may be lined and stitched, leaving the ends open to
+admit the cheek pieces; a cross face piece can be used in place of the
+nose piece, if preferred. The crown and cheeks are cut thirty-eight
+inches long. The measurements for the other straps are the same as
+those used for regular team bridles.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_9" src="images/fig_16_9.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="292" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 9.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_10" src="images/fig_16_10.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="291" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 10.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_16_12">Fig. 12</a> represents a German Court bridle.</p>
+
+<p>Crown pieces are made up in a variety of styles, a number of which
+are given <a href="#I_195">on page 195</a>. A and B have the straight
+layer, but different styles of cheeks; C has no layer, the gag runner
+being attached to the throat latch billet; D has a folded crown piece
+with the layer, throat latch, and cheek billets cut in one, the layer
+being cut with an extra billet for the gag runner ring; E has the plain
+double waved layer; F has a short layer for the half Kemble-Jackson
+check, the gag runner being attached to the check. The same style of
+layer is used for the full Kemble-Jackson check. In both instances the
+opening for the check is made by a wedge-shaped piece stitched between
+the layer and crown piece. G shows the crown, with a short layer for
+securing the head terret, and an extra billet for the gag runner; H
+shows a plain strap layer, with an oval loop and a ring for a gag
+runner. This is used for carrying the gag rein well up and close to the
+cheek. I shows the common fold crown, with a plain waved layer.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_11" src="images/fig_16_11.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="270" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 11.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_16_12" src="images/fig_16_12.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="276" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 12.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="I_195" src="images/i_195a.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="314" >
+    <img src="images/i_195b.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="323" >
+    <img src="images/i_195c.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="259" >
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVII<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">RIDING BRIDLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Riding</span> bridles, though
+forming a very important portion of the harness maker’s stock, are much
+less varied in character than most other leading articles, because
+display is not an important matter except in a limited number of cases.
+The military and ladies’ dress bridles are the only ones ornamented to
+any extent; even in these the principal strapping is a duplicate of the
+less pretentious article. The ornamenting consists of cross face or
+other similar decorations.</p>
+
+<p>Bridles take their name, except in isolated cases, from the style of
+bit used, the headstall of a Pelham, bradoon, port, or snaffle being of
+the same pattern, made up with or without billets for the bit rings.
+<a href="#FIG_17_1">Figs. 1, 2, and 3</a> represent a bradoon, or
+loose ring, a double rein port, and a Pelham, the strapping, with the
+exception of the reins, being the same in all. The regular lengths and
+widths for cutting with and without billets are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅜</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;7</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Without billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">15</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch, two buckles&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">52</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Without billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">56</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_17_1" src="images/fig_17_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="168" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.1.</span><br>Bradoon.</p>
+    <img src="images/fig_17_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="175" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.2.</span><br>Double Rein Post.</p>
+    <img  src="images/fig_17_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="170" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.3.</span><br>Pelham.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_17_4">Fig. 4</a> is a plain snaffle bridle, the
+lengths for cutting being the same as those previously noticed;
+<a href="#FIG_17_5">Fig. 5</a> is a single round cheek bridle, in which
+but two pieces are used for the cheeks and crown; the throat latch is
+cut in one piece and is rounded the whole length, the ends being joined
+by a leather tassel. The cuttings are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek, buckle side&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">billet side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">54</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">11½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Curb straps</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_17_4" src="images/fig_17_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="290" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.4.</span><br>Plain Snaffle.</p>
+    <img id="FIG_17_5" src="images/fig_17_5.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="316" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.5.</span><br>Round Check.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_17_6">Fig. 6</a> is a double cheek bridle with a plain
+port and a light bradoon bit. The cheeks and crown piece for each bit
+are cut in one piece. The cuttings are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Port cheeks and crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bradoon cheeks and crown&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">36</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_17_7">Fig. 7</a> represents another style of
+double cheek bridle, the cuttings for which are the same as for
+<a href="#FIG_17_5">Fig. 5</a>, both cheeks being of the same length; the
+nose strap, which may be used or not, is cut three quarters of an inch
+wide and twenty-eight inches long, and rounded fifteen inches.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_17_8">Fig. 8</a> represents a double cheek bridle, in
+which the cheek pieces on each side are cut in one; the crown piece for
+the cheek is also cut as one; it is doubled and buckled on the crown,
+and is provided with two small slide loops; the throat latch and crown
+are cut in one as are also the nose and chin pieces. The cuttings are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">33</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3">rounded</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece, made up as hame strap&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_17_9">Fig. 9</a> represents a style of double cheek and bit
+bridle made up with long cheeks and without billets. The cuttings are:
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_17_6" src="images/fig_17_6.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="248" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.6.</span><br>Double Check, Port, and Bradoon.</p>
+    <img id="FIG_17_8" src="images/fig_17_8.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="332" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.8.</span><br>Double Check, Round.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks, port, buckle side&emsp;&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">20</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">billet side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bradoon, bit, buckle side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">billet side</td>
+      <td class="tdc">26</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">22</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅝</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bradoon reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">90</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Port reins</td>
+      <td class="tdc">96</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The peculiarity of these bridles is the manner in which the port cheeks
+and throat latches are cut and made up, and the use of separate straps
+for the crown and cheeks for the bradoon bits. The English Weymouth
+bridle is not as popular in this country as the port and bradoon. It
+has double cheeks, one of which is buckled into the ring on the top of
+the bit check, the other is cut longer and is buckled into the rein
+ring at the end of the mouth piece, the bit used being the Pelham.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_17_7" src="images/fig_17_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="206" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.7.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_17_9" src="images/fig_17_9.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="255" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.9.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</span>
+Three kinds of leather are used for bridles—black harness, russet,
+and buff. Light weights should be used in all cases, and the cheek
+straps and reins cut from the firmest part of the side. English russet
+has long been a favorite brand of leather, but the better grades of
+American are equal to it in every respect. Buff leather is used to a
+considerable extent for flat fancy bridles, to be used with saddles
+having seat and knee pads made of buckskin. This leather, being soft,
+is not creased, and is stitched no more than is absolutely necessary
+to secure the various straps. Cheap bridles are sometimes made up with
+plated rosettes, but leather is used on all finer grades.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XVIII.<br><span class="h_subtitle">HALTERS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Halters</span> constitute a
+very important part of the harness maker’s stock. The varieties are
+numerous; though apparently unnecessary, they are required to suit
+the preferences of different sections of the country, and render it
+obligatory on harness makers to be prepared at all times to meet the
+demands of their customers. The many illustrations in this chapter
+will enable the manufacturer to present to his customers correct
+representations to select from, while the lengths for cutting and the
+directions for making up will be found of great value in the work shop.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_1">Fig. 1</a>. represents the United States
+Government regulation halter, the principal merit of which is its
+strength and simplicity; it is easy to adjust, and can not be slipped
+off by the horse rubbing his head against posts or other objects. The
+lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">26</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">14</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece, if double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">30</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">single</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">made up</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hitching strap, or stem</td>
+      <td class="tdr">84</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">10</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_2" src="images/fig_18_2.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="425" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.2.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_1" src="images/fig_18_1.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="364" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.1.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</span>
+The regulation width is 1¼ inches; for general use, however, 1 inch is
+wide enough.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_2">Fig. 2</a> is the Spanish halter; it bears a
+general resemblance to <a href="#FIG_18_1">Fig. 1</a>, from which it
+was modeled, but it is put together in a different manner; has a front
+and a cockeye attached to the bolt piece; all the straps but the front
+are cut long, and are doubled and stitched. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">42</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">28</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">21</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdr">17</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">34</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">36</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">10</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdr">19</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>All the straps but the front are 1¼ inches wide; the latter is 1 inch
+wide; <span class="fs_120"><b>D</b></span> rings are used for the upper,
+and square loops for the lower, ends of the cheeks.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_4" src="images/fig_18_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="393" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.4.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_3" src="images/fig_18_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="352" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.3.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_18_3">Fig. 3</a> is a heavy French stall halter of
+ornamental design and finish; it is used as a bridle halter as well.
+The cutting lengths are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">End split</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek pieces</td>
+      <td class="tdr">11</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">16</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">17</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Lining to nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The crown piece is 2¼ inches wide, the cheeks 1¼ inches, and all other
+straps 1 inch; the lining, which is of patent leather, is 2¼ inches
+wide in the center.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_4">Fig. 4</a> is a heavy cleaning, or groom,
+halter. The nose piece is made with a flat iron top, having three rings
+attached, these being used to secure the horse’s head in any desired
+position. The nose piece plate is lined with heavy leather, and padded.
+The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Split</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">15</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdr">27</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">13</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Pad roll</td>
+      <td class="tdr">11</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin billet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">11</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_6" src="images/fig_18_6.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.6.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_5" src="images/fig_18_5.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="379" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.5.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</span>
+The crown piece is cut 1½ inches, the throat latch ⅝ of an inch, all
+other straps 1 inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_5">Fig. 5</a> represents a training halter of a
+neat and tasty design. All the principal straps are cut of bridle
+or buff leather, or of heavy twilled white web; the chapes of black
+harness leather for light colored leather halters, and bridle or buff
+leather for web halters. The chapes are all of an ornamental pattern;
+those for securing the ends of the strapping to the rings are cut
+double, those holding the throat strap rings have a small billet by
+which the rings are secured. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long check piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">23 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short &nbsp;&emsp;”  &nbsp;&emsp;”</td>
+      <td class="tdr">17 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">12 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">10 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8 &#8199;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece, made up</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The cheeks and bolt pieces are 1 inch wide, nose and chin pieces ⅞ of
+an inch wide.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_8" src="images/fig_18_8.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="401" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.8.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_7" src="images/fig_18_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="402" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.7.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_18_6">Fig. 6</a> is another style of training halter,
+which, like the preceding one, is made of buff, russet, or black
+leather, or of linen web. When the latter is used, the chapes should
+be of russet leather; metallic rosettes having a stout center pin and
+four loops on the under side are used to connect the various parts,
+thus dispensing with buckles except on the throat latch chape; if these
+rosettes are not accessible, square loops may be used for the lower
+ends of the cheeks, and a buckle be attached to the short cheek piece,
+using fancy or plain leather for rosettes. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long cheek, including crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">27</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short cheek</td>
+      <td class="tdr">15</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdr">19</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">17</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">9</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>If web and leather layers are used, deduct from these lengths 3 inches
+for each lap. The cheeks are cut 1¼ inches, the nose, front, and chin 1
+inch, and the throat latch ⅞ of an inch wide.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_10" src="images/fig_18_10.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="395" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.10.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_9" src="images/fig_18_9.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="359" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.9.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_18_7">Fig. 7</a> represents a bitting halter, one of
+the most desirable styles in use. It closely resembles the straight
+cheek style of years past, the only difference being in the manner of
+attaching the throat piece, and in the use of two short cheeks. This
+may be made of buff, russet, or black leather. The buckles used on
+the cheeks are extra heavy, the side bar being made to answer as a
+substitute for loops to which the throat piece is attached. The lengths
+for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">32</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">10</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Loop piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">15</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>All the straps with the exception of the throat piece are cut 1¼ inches
+wide; this is cut 1 inch.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_8">Fig. 8</a> closely resembles <a href="#FIG_18_7">Fig. 7</a>,
+the difference being in the manner of attaching the throat strap, and
+the use of but one buckle on the cheeks. The cuttings are the same,
+with the exception of the cheek pieces, which are cut:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long cheek</td>
+      <td class="tdr">25</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short cheek</td>
+      <td class="tdr">16</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The loops used for securing the throat piece are of metal or leather,
+and are provided with a short screw, by which they are held in position.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_12" src="images/fig_18_12.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="337" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.12.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_11" src="images/fig_18_11.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="379" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.11.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_18_9">Fig. 9</a> represents a strong stable halter, of
+different construction than any previously noticed. The cheeks, crowns,
+and throat latch are cut so as to obviate the use of the usual buckles
+or rings in the cheek pieces. The billet to the stem and the bolt, or
+loop piece, are also in one piece. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long cheek, including throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">52</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short cheek, including billet to throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">29</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">23</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">23</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Billet to stem</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_10">Fig. 10</a> represents another peculiar style,
+commonly known as the Yankee halter. It is designed for a slip halter,
+and is easily made. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Head piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">50</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">28</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Braces</td>
+      <td class="tdr">12</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Hitching strap</td>
+      <td class="tdr">84</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>All the straps are cut of uniform width, either 1 or 1¼ inches. Attach
+the braces 9 inches from the ring on the head piece.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_11">Fig. 11</a> represents a double cheek halter,
+designed to be used for training purposes. The lengths for cuttings are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdr">20</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdr">9</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Extra crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22
+               <span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</span></td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">22</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The crown piece is cut 1 inch wide; all other straps, ¾ of an inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_12">Fig. 12</a> represents another style of four
+ring halter, the buckles being in the cheek pieces; the rings may be
+covered with a rosette, if desired. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdr">17</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">14</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek billets</td>
+      <td class="tdr">7</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">30</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">26</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The cheeks, crown, and bolt piece are cut 1¼ inches wide; the other
+straps, 1 inch.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_13">Fig. 13</a> is also designed for a training
+halter. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Long cheek and crown</td>
+      <td class="tdr">32</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Short cheek</td>
+      <td class="tdr">15</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch and crown in one</td>
+      <td class="tdr">42</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">23</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Loop piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_13" src="images/fig_18_13.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="291" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.13.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_14" src="images/fig_18_14.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="239" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.14.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_15" src="images/fig_18_15.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="359" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.15.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</span>
+All the straps are 1 inch wide, excepting the front: this is ¾ of an inch.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_14">Fig. 14</a> represents a double cheek halter
+without buckles, except on the top of the crown. The nose and cheeks
+are secured in position by a layer which secures the rings; the throat
+latch is stitched to the back cheek piece just below the face piece.
+The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">21</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdr">20</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdr">6</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose piece, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">23</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece, double</td>
+      <td class="tdr">25</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Loop piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">8</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>The cheeks are cut ½ inch wide; other straps, 1 inch.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_15">Fig. 15</a> represents a four ring halter with front,
+and buckles on the cheeks. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">12</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billets</td>
+      <td class="tdr">5½</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">18</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Buckle chape</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">8</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>All other straps, as well as the widths, the same as in Fig. 1.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_16">Fig. 16</a> represents a very convenient slip halter.
+The lengths for cutting are:
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</span></p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">21</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat and cheek pieces in one</td>
+      <td class="tdr">38</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose and chin piece in one</td>
+      <td class="tdr">24</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl" colspan="2">&nbsp;<br>All the straps are cut 1 inch wide.</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_18_17">Fig. 17</a> represents a convenient style of
+team halter to be worn with the bridle. The lengths for cutting are:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown and throat latch in one</td>
+      <td class="tdr">30</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose and chin strap in one</td>
+      <td class="tdr">26</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdr">10</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdr">7</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>Cuttings for a common bridle or three ring halter:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheek, including crown piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">34</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Short</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose band</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin, doubled</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">⅞</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch</td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Stem</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+       <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Billet</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bit strap</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;9</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_18_17" src="images/fig_18_17.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="371" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.17.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_18_16" src="images/fig_18_16.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="418" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.16.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</span></p>
+
+<p>A web halter:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">Length,<br>inches.</td>
+      <td class="tdl_wsp fs_80">Width,<br>inches.</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown</td>
+      <td class="tdc">24</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Cheeks</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;5</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Front</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">Chapes</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&#8199;8</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1⅛</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Nose</td>
+      <td class="tdc">13</td>
+      <td class="tdr">1¼</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Throat latch, leather<span class="ws4">&nbsp;</span></td>
+      <td class="tdc">39</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Chin piece, leather</td>
+      <td class="tdc">30</td>
+      <td class="tdr">¾</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Bolt piece</td>
+      <td class="tdc">18</td>
+      <td class="tdr_wsp">1&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>Yankee one ring halter:</p>
+
+<table class="spb2 spa2">
+   <tbody><tr>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc fs_80">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdl_ws3 fs_80">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Crown piece,</td>
+      <td class="tdc">&nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl_ws2">nose and chin in one &nbsp;</td>
+      <td class="tdc">84</td>
+      <td class="tdr_ws1">1</td>
+   </tr><tr>
+      <td class="tdl">Braces</td>
+      <td class="tdc">12</td>
+      <td class="tdr_ws1">1</td>
+   </tr>
+ </tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>To make this halter, cut for the buckle tongue, and bend down the
+buckle lap; then measure off 12 inches, and bend down for ring; then
+28 inches, and bend for nose band; then place the brace in the center
+between the front of the nose band and center of the chin piece at the
+ring; cross the strap through the ring, and bring the crown end up on
+the off side: this will place the buckle on the near side. Set the
+crown piece at an angle so as to take the upper end of the braces. This
+makes a convenient halter, which easily adjusts itself to the head of
+any horse.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XIX.<br><span class="h_subtitle">HORSE BOOTS.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> artist who pictured
+a horse on the track with his legs encased in boots, etc., from the
+bottom of the hoof up to the body, was not so far from the truth
+as many persons would suppose, for there is no part of the limb,
+from the knee down, for which boots are not made. The illustrations
+in this chapter represent the general styles, though not all the
+varieties in the market. There are many patented boots, some of them
+possessing merit, a description of which would be of no practical use
+to the harness maker. There are several classes of boots, such as the
+knee, shin, ankle, quarter, and combination, each of which has its
+distinctive name.</p>
+
+<p>The illustrations in this chapter have an advantage over those found
+elsewhere, in that nearly all are drawn in exact proportions; and
+the descriptions are such that a harness maker may readily furnish a
+customer with any desired pattern. Making horse boots is not a simple
+operation: success depends upon their being so constructed that they
+will retain their position without being strapped so tight as to
+interfere with the freest movement of the horse’s leg. To accomplish
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</span>
+this, the leather used for shields must be worked up firm and the
+securing straps placed where they will draw in direct lines. When
+fullness is to be given to the shields, the best plan is to cut out a
+V and stitch the edges together; they may, however, be stamped up with
+dies. For convenience, each class will be described separately.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_1">Fig. 1</a> represents one of the best styles
+of knee boot in use; it is made of heavy bridle leather, cut in two
+pieces, as shown by A and B; the former is worked up nearly flat,
+except that portion below D, where it is shaped to fit to B, which is
+worked up full in the center; a gore is taken out at C, and the edges
+joined to secure the shape. The securing strap, D, is of medium weight
+bridle leather, and is stitched to the shield before the lining is
+put in. The lining, which is of buckskin, is turned in all around,
+so that the edge is placed between the two pieces, and stitched down
+all around; a very little wool or hair is placed between the two, and
+the center is secured by stitching at the highest point in the shield
+B. The securing strap is also lined with buckskin and stuffed with
+felt; the billet, which is twenty inches long and one half inch wide,
+is stitched to the securing strap. The buckle chape is stitched to a
+strong loop at the other end of the main strap; the two small loops
+hold the billet in position, it being passed around the boot before it
+is buckled; the drawing is one quarter size.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_1" src="images/fig_19_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="369" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.1.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_2" src="images/fig_19_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="401" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.2.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_19_2">Fig. 2</a> is a plain, heavy knee boot. This is cut
+from one piece of leather; that portion above the securing strap is
+flat, the lower part has a half inch raise in the center; the lining is
+of buckskin, wool or hair being used for padding. The securing strap is
+cut of good, firm leather, and lined with buckskin, padded with felt.
+The billet is cut one half inch wide and fourteen inches long. There
+are five small loops, each one inch long, placed as shown on the main
+strap. The drawing is one quarter size.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_3">Fig. 3</a> represents a peculiar shaped but
+desirable knee boot. It is cut from one piece of harness or bridle
+leather; the cap piece is gored in two places, to produce the requisite
+fullness; it is lined with buckskin and padded with a single thickness
+of felt; the lining is cut large and the edge turned in so as to form
+a roll all around; two heavy pads are attached to the under side as
+bearings; one is shown by the line X, the other is placed directly
+under the buckle; the center-pad is nearly one inch thick, the one
+under the buckle is about three quarters of an inch thick; both are
+made of felt placed under the buckskin. This boot when made up is
+nine inches long. The proportions in the drawing are based upon that
+measurement.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_4">Fig. 4</a> differs but little in shape from
+<a href="#FIG_19_3">Fig. 3</a>, but is made up plainer. The proportions
+are the same.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_3" src="images/fig_19_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="398" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.3.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img id="FIG_19_4" src="images/fig_19_4.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="359" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 4.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  id="FIG_19_5" src="images/fig_19_5.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="331" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 5.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</span>
+Figs. 6 and 7 represent two patterns of knee boots of an entirely
+different model from the above. They are also much lighter. The body
+of <a href="#FIG_19_6">Fig. 6</a> is made of enameled leather, lined
+throughout with buckskin; the shield is of heavy harness leather struck
+up full, and slightly padded with felt. The bearing pads, shown by the
+dotted lines, are raised about three quarters of an inch; they are of
+felt, covered with buckskin. The long or top billet is cut eight inches
+long and three quarters of an inch wide; the bottom billet is cut six
+inches long and three quarters of an inch wide; a small gore is cut at
+X; the edges are drawn together and blind stitched before the lining is
+stitched in. The drawing is one third the full size.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_7">Fig. 7</a>, though designed for the same purpose
+as <a href="#FIG_19_6">Fig. 6</a>, is much lighter, and, being more
+open, is less likely to bind when on the knee. The lower billet is so
+placed that it does not bear upon the cords sufficiently to displace it
+when the knee is bent. It is made up in the same manner and of similar
+material as Fig. 6. The upper or leg strap is cut nineteen inches long
+and five eighths of an inch wide; the lower billet is cut ten inches
+long and one half inch wide. The other proportions, as shown, are one
+third the full size.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_5">Fig. 5</a> represents a knee pad or breaking
+boot; the body is made of heavy felt; the leg strap is stitched to
+the felt and lined with buckskin; the knee safe is made of several
+thicknesses of bridle leather, worked up full in the center.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_6" src="images/fig_19_6.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="348" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.6.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_7" src="images/fig_19_7.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="259" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.7.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</span>
+Combination boots are made in a great variety of styles, there being
+at least fifty different patterns in use. The principal portion of the
+shield is designed expressly to protect the shin; to this is attached
+a cap piece for covering the knee or ankle. The styles illustrated
+comprise the regular lines, and, with the slight variations necessary
+to secure a good fit, are all that are needed.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_8">Fig. 8</a> represents a shin and ankle boot. The
+body is made of heavy felt, the shield of harness leather, worked up
+full at the ankle end; the latter is stitched to the body with a single
+row around the edge and a few stitches at each end. The shaded spaces
+on each side represent strips of leather; the blank space A, strips
+of elastic web; these are attached to the body by the stitching shown
+on the strips nearest the shield; the remaining portion of the webs
+and the straps to which the buckle chapes and billets are attached are
+left loose, the portion of the body under them acting as a safe; by
+the use of these elastic strips the boot is freed from the rigidity so
+often noticeable, and the horse is relieved from any undue pressure.
+The shield when made up is eight inches long; the reduced size of the
+drawing is based upon that measurement.</p>
+
+<p>Another style of shin and ankle boot is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_9">Fig. 9</a>,
+which may also be used as a shin and knee boot. The body is of heavy
+felt, bound on the top and bottom edges with thin leather, and
+lined throughout with buckskin; the shield is padded with hair. The
+dimensions of this boot are: body, nine inches wide and six and one
+half inches deep; the billets are four inches, and the buckle chapes
+three inches, long. The shield is reduced in the same proportions as
+the body.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_8" src="images/fig_19_8.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="361" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.8.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_9" src="images/fig_19_9.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="439" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.9.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</span>
+A light cord and knee boot is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_10">Fig. 10</a>.
+The body is made of black enameled leather, lined with buckskin, double
+stitched. The shield is of heavy harness leather, worked up full and
+padded with hair, the buckskin lining extending the full length of the
+shield. The billets are cut three eighths of an inch wide and seven
+inches long, the buckle chapes the same width and one and one quarter
+inches long; the proportions are one sixth the full size.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_11">Fig. 11</a> illustrates a knee and cord boot
+of another pattern. The body is cut of medium weight harness leather,
+and bound with light enameled leather; the leg strap is made of strips
+of black enameled leather, stitched together on the edges and through
+the center, and stuffed with hair; it is attached to the body by two
+thicknesses of black enameled leather; the shield is of heavy leather,
+padded with hair. The billets on the body are five inches long and one
+half inch wide; the billet on the leg strap is five and one half inches
+long and one half inch wide. The drawing is one sixth actual size.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img id="FIG_19_10" src="images/fig_19_10.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="283" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 10.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  id="FIG_19_11" src="images/fig_19_11.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="290" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 11.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_12" src="images/fig_19_12.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="391" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.12.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_19_12">Fig. 12</a> represents a combined shin, ankle,
+and cord boot. The body, B, is of heavy felt, bound with buckskin;
+the shield, A, of heavy harness leather, worked up full at the lower
+end; D, a piece of heavy leather, lined with buckskin, stuffed with
+hair so as to make a cushion about one half inch thick; C, two pieces
+of elastic web, the outside piece being cut a little wider than the
+other; the web is secured in position by the stitching which is used
+to attach the shield A and piece D to the body and lining; the billets
+are attached at the shield, and pass through small loops near the outer
+edge of the body; E represents the cord piece, made of heavy leather,
+lined with buckskin at the lower end, an inside layer being attached
+at the top of the cap and extending up to the top, where there are two
+holes, as shown in E, through which a round leather lacer passes, and
+by which the top ends are joined. When the cord piece is used, the thin
+piece is placed between the two pieces of web, C, and the top, secured
+by the lacer. The drawing is one fourth the actual size.</p>
+
+<p>Two other styles of combination boots are shown by Figs. <a href="#FIG_19_13">13</a>
+and <a href="#FIG_19_14">14</a>, an ankle and wrist boot.
+<a href="#FIG_19_13">Fig. 13</a>, the body, is of heavy blue kersey, bound
+with light enameled leather; the shield is of heavy harness leather;
+the ankle portion is worked up full and hard; owing to the thickness
+of the material used in the body, no stuffing is used. The wrist strap
+is of elastic web; it passes between the shield and body, and is held
+in position by the stitching. The billets for the top are cut five and
+one half inches long and one half inch wide; the kersey body is cut
+nine and one half inches wide across the top and eight inches long; the
+shield is three and three quarter inches in diameter; all other parts
+are drawn to the same scale.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_14" src="images/fig_19_14.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="290" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.14.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_13" src="images/fig_19_13.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="420" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.13.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_19_14">Fig. 14</a> represents a combined shin, ankle,
+and wrist boot, made up of the same materials and in the same manner
+as <a href="#FIG_19_13">Fig. 13</a>. It is cut two inches longer than
+the latter, otherwise the proportions are the same; the billets are cut
+five inches long and one half inch wide. The wrist web is seven eighths
+of an inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_15">Fig. 15</a> shows a design of shin and ankle
+boot intended as a protection to the hind legs. The body is made of
+black enameled leather, lined throughout with buckskin. The shin
+shield has but little fullness, and is padded on the under side with
+hair placed between the enameled leather and the buckskin, the padded
+section being quilted to hold the hair in position. The body to the
+ankle portion is also of enameled leather, lined in like manner as the
+shin body; the shield is of harness leather, worked up full and hard.
+The set of this piece depends much upon the position of the billets and
+buckle chape; these are shown in their proper position. The body of the
+shin boot is eight and three quarter inches across the top and ten and
+three quarter inches across the bottom; the shield is seven and three
+quarter inches long; the ankle shield is two and three quarter inches
+in diameter, all other proportions being relatively the same. The ankle
+billet is cut eight inches long and five eighth inches wide, about one
+half the length being rounded and covered with buckskin.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_15" src="images/fig_19_15.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="580" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.15.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</span>
+A shin, ankle, and speedy cut boot is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_16">Fig. 16</a>,
+which, like the preceding boot, is designed for the hind leg, the
+pattern being one of the best in use; the speedy cut portion, C, is
+made up separate from the shin boot, and is held in position by the
+lower billet of the latter passing through a long loop on the top
+end. The body, B, is of heavy kersey; the shield, of harness leather,
+worked up slightly in the leg part and full at the ankle; the under
+side of the shield is padded with hair; the pastern piece, C, is of
+black enameled leather, lined with buckskin; the shield, D, of harness
+leather, slightly rounded up; the billet attached to the pastern piece
+is covered for about one half its length with buckskin. The two upper
+boot billets are five inches long and five eighths of an inch wide;
+the lower billet is cut nine inches long; the pastern billet is cut
+eight inches long, one half inch wide. The illustration is drawn to one
+quarter the full size.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_16" src="images/fig_19_16.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="558" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.16.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</span>
+<a href="#FIG_19_17">Fig. 17</a> represents an improved ankle boot,
+lighter than most other kinds, and the location of the shield is such
+as to give greater protection to the ankle than that of the ordinary
+boot. The body is cut of harness leather; the shield, which is two and
+one half inches in diameter, is made of harness leather, worked up full
+and hard; a gore is taken out of the body, the edges are closed up
+smooth under the concave of the shield. Two bearing cushions are used,
+one under the buckle chape, the other as shown by the dotted lines near
+the billet; these are of felt, covered with buckskin; the one under the
+chape is two and one quarter inches; the other, one and one half inches
+long and seven eighths of an inch wide; the boot is lined throughout
+with thin patent leather. The full measurements are: length on the
+top line, eight and one half inches; width of square ends, one inch;
+depth at the widest point, four inches. The center of the shield is six
+and one quarter inches from the top corner at the billet end and five
+inches at the buckle end; the billet is six inches long and one half
+inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_18">Fig. 18</a> represents a plain, cheap ankle
+boot; the body is of heavy kersey, single or double; the shield is
+of harness leather, worked up full and hard at the ankle; the shield
+is six inches long and three and one half inches wide at the widest
+point and two inches wide at the top; the proportions of the body are
+based upon this measurement. The billets are five and one half inches
+long and one half inch wide; they, as well as the buckle chapes, are
+stitched to the body two and one half inches back of the edges.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_17" src="images/fig_19_17.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="333" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.17.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_18" src="images/fig_19_18.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="398" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.18.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</span>
+A more expensive boot is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_19">Fig. 19</a>. The
+shield is of heavy russet leather struck up full and hard; the body
+is of heavy kersey, bound with buckskin; the leg strap is of russet
+leather; it is nine inches long and one inch wide; it, as well as
+the shield, is secured to the body by a single row of stitching. The
+various proportions are: shield, four and one half inches long, three
+and one half inches wide at the broadest point and two inches at the
+leg strap; the bearing pad, A, is one and one half inches long and one
+half inch thick; the billet is cut six inches long and one half inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_20">Fig. 20</a> represents the hard leather cup
+ankle boot. The body is cut of heavy harness leather; a large gore
+is cut out of the top side, the edges of which are afterwards joined
+and blind stitched on the outside; the edges of the gore must be cut
+with a slight curve, in order to secure a regular circular fullness;
+the layer is cut of heavy leather, worked up full and stitched to the
+body; the buckle chape is cut three and one half inches long, and the
+billet eleven inches long. Two bearing cushions are used; one is shown
+by C, the outlines of the other by the dotted line near the top of the
+shield. These are of buckskin, stuffed with hair. The inside of the
+boot is skived off smooth all around the lower edge, care being taken
+to avoid all irregularities. The small cut A represents a side view of
+this boot. The large drawing is one half actual size.</p>
+
+<p>Heel boots constitute a distinct class, of which there is a great
+variety; but those shown by the illustrations are all that are required
+for general use. <a href="#FIG_19_21">Fig. 21</a> represents a well
+fitting boot of this class; the body is cut of medium weight harness
+leather; the layer is cut of heavy stock, worked up hard and stiffened
+by the layer under the shield; three gores are cut out of the top of
+the body, and the edges are joined and secured by blind stitches; a
+small section is gashed to form a fringe. The body is cut nine and one
+half inches long on the top line, four and one half inches deep in the
+center, and three inches at the ends; the shield is six inches long and
+two and one half inches deep; the billets are three inches long and one
+and one half inches wide.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_19" src="images/fig_19_19.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="317" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.19.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_20" src="images/fig_19_20.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="317" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.20.</span></p>
+    <img src="images/i_244.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="172" >
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</span>
+A plain, serviceable quarter boot is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_22">Fig. 22</a>;
+it is made of a single piece of heavy harness leather, lined with felt;
+the top edge is cut as shown to provide a yielding surface and prevent
+injury to the horse; six gores are taken out of the bottom; the edges
+are joined to produce the required shape; the felt lining extends to
+the top and within one half inch of the bottom, and is secured as
+shown by the lines of stitching. Buckles are not used, the ends being
+fastened by means of loops attached to one, and holes cut through the
+other to admit their passing through; they are then locked by a heavy
+billet as shown. An ordinary boot is fourteen inches long on the top
+line of stitches, the line being described by a twelve inch radius; the
+lower line is contracted by the goring to twenty inches; the depth when
+made up is four inches.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_23">Fig. 23</a> represents a toe boot for the
+hind foot; this is made up of heavy harness leather; the top section,
+indicated by the dotted line, is lined with buckskin and padded. The
+full length of the body is twelve inches; depth, five and one half
+inches; the bottom line has a sweep of three inches; the buckle and
+roller loop chape is cut three and one half inches long.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_21" src="images/fig_19_21.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="227" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.21.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_22" src="images/fig_19_22.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="243" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.22.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_23" src="images/fig_19_23.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="203" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.23.</span></p>
+    <img id="FIG_19_24" src="images/fig_19_24.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="194" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.24.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</span>
+Another boot designed for the same purpose is shown by <a href="#FIG_19_24">Fig. 24</a>;
+this is cut of heavy leather, the top being lined with buckskin to make a
+cushion one inch deep.</p>
+
+<p>Toe weight boots are designed for an entirely different purpose than
+those previously noticed, but they properly belong to this department.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_19_25">Fig. 25</a> represents a boot with two weights,
+A; these are of lead, covered with leather. The body of the boot is
+of heavy leather, cut twenty-one and three quarter inches long on the
+lower line, and three and one eighth inches deep in the center. The
+billet is fourteen inches long and five eighths of an inch wide; the
+buckle chape is nine and one half inches long; it is attached to the
+lower edge of the body, and passes through a slot on the opposite side;
+the billet is attached in like manner and passed through a similar
+slot.</p>
+
+<p>Another toe weight is shown by Figs. <a href="#FIG_19_26">26</a>
+and <a href="#FIG_19_27">27</a>; the body, A, is of leather, having
+two slots as shown by X; the weight, B, is of lead, secured by an
+adjustable hook shown by <a href="#FIG_19_27">Fig. 27</a>; this is
+secured by a single strap which passes through the slots in the
+body and hook. A combined weight and quarter boot is shown by
+<a href="#FIG_19_28">Fig. 28</a>. The body is cut of one piece, of heavy
+leather, the quarter form being produced by gores; the quarter is lined
+with heavy felt and stiffened by layers; the toe weight and securing
+hook are secured by a piece of leather stitched to the body; the
+securing strap is stitched to the toe, and passes through a roller loop
+back to the buckle.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_25" src="images/fig_19_25.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="278" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.25.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img id="FIG_19_26" src="images/fig_19_26.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="180" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 26.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  id="FIG_19_27" src="images/fig_19_27.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="165" >
+   <p class="center">Fig. 27.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img id="FIG_19_28" src="images/fig_19_28.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="226" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig.28.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</span></p>
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XX.<br><span class="h_subtitle">HARNESS MOUNTINGS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">In</span> describing harness
+mountings, it is not the intention of the author to draw comparisons
+as to the respective merits of any class or style. The sole aim is to
+give a correct description of the various kinds, their peculiarities
+of manufacture, and such other information as will enable the reader to
+judge as to the adaptability of any particular style for a specific use.</p>
+
+<p>In order that they may be fully explained, they will be divided into
+five classes, as follows: Plated, whether silver, gold, or nickel; pure
+metal; covered, whether leather or composition; japanned, and tinned.</p>
+
+<p>Plated mountings are divided into two classes—close plate, those in
+which the fine metal is rolled out in thin sheets and applied as a
+covering to the iron or composition forming the body of the article,
+and caused to adhere by means of solder and heat; electro plate, those
+in which the fine metal is dissolved and formed into a liquid solution,
+into which the articles to be coated are suspended, and by the
+application of an electric current the fine metal is evenly deposited
+upon the surface of the iron or composition.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</span></p>
+
+<p>The silver used for close plating is rolled out in sheets of various
+thicknesses, and designated by numbers, the lightest being No. 1;
+following this are three grades, designated as No. 1½ light, fair, and
+stout, the former weighing three pennyweights to a foot in length by
+6½ inches in width; the second weighs 3½ pennyweights, while the third
+weighs 4½ pennyweights. Next to these are three grades, designated
+as No. 2 light, fair, and stout. The first weighs 5½, the second 6½,
+and the third 7½ pennyweights to the foot. Following these are three
+grades, designated as No. 2½ light, fair, and stout. The first weighs
+8½, the second 9½, and the third 10½ pennyweights to the foot. The
+second is also designated as “Knob;” and the third, “Heavy Knob.” The
+latter is seldom used on harness mountings, as it can not be worked to
+an advantage except by the hard solder process, which is too expensive
+for harness work. “Knob” silver is the heaviest used for the regular trade.</p>
+
+<p>It will be seen that there are eight grades of silver below the “Knob,”
+which explains in part why there is so great a difference in the prices
+of plated goods of any one pattern; for, based upon the government
+standard, a foot of No. 1 silver, 6½ inches wide, would be worth 13.6
+cents, while a foot of “Knob” silver would be 64.6; but the actual
+difference in the prices of the rolled plate is even greater than this.
+Then, too, the cost of labor is much greater for putting on heavy than
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</span>
+light silver. The former is so thin that but little labor is required
+to solder it to the article to be plated, while the extra thickness of
+the latter necessitates extra skill and time.</p>
+
+<p>Buyers who are not experts are at a loss how to determine the quality
+of the plate. This can be done by examining the surface closely; the
+thinner the silver the less dense and perfect the surface. No. 1 will
+show minute holes in great number, while the surface of “Knob” will
+be perfect to the naked eye. It is not so easy to distinguish between
+two succeeding grades, but by a little care a person who handles these
+goods can learn to select each distinct grade. Close plate can be
+easily distinguished from the electro plate. All that is required is to
+breathe upon the polished surface, and if it is close plate the seam
+where the metal is joined will be seen at a glance, it showing a bluish
+streak; the heavier the plate the more distinct the seam.</p>
+
+<p>Electro plate is less durable than close plate; but when deposited in
+sufficient quantity and hand burnished, it will wear well; the surface,
+however, is less perfect than the former, as the thin coating of silver
+is deposited evenly over the entire surface, and an irregularity in
+the casting will show itself after the work is burnished; in fact,
+blemishes are more easily detected after being plated and burnished
+than before, as the minute depressions can not be reached by the
+burnisher, and they therefore show dead, white spots.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</span></p>
+
+<p>The peculiar white lustre of silver distinguishes it from other
+metals, but there are other tests by which the uninitiated may satisfy
+themselves as to the quality. The simplest is to prepare a cold
+saturated solution of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid. A little
+of this may be applied to the surface (which must be perfectly clean)
+by means of a glass rod, and washed off immediately with cold water.
+If the article tested is pure silver, a blood-red colored mark will
+appear; if the article is German silver, the liquid appears brown, but
+the mark shows no shade of red. On other white metals there are various
+actions, but in none but the silver does the red mark appear.</p>
+
+<p>Persons unacquainted with the nature of silver condemn an article as
+impure because of its tarnishing. This is erroneous, as pure silver
+assumes a dingy reddish brown, and loses its lustre more readily than
+some of the composition white metals.</p>
+
+<p>Gold plating is always done by the electro process, the other processes
+for applying it to coarser metal not being adapted to harness
+mountings. It is the most showy but frailest plating in use; the
+thin deposit is naturally soft, and but little friction is required
+to remove it. If hand burnished, the gold is made more dense than
+otherwise; but even this is not as durable as other plating. There is
+no such an article of manufacture as close plate gold, nor can there be
+unless a solder can be produced which will melt under a lower heat than
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</span>
+gold, and as there is no such solder at this time, all claims of a gold
+covered article being close plate are fraudulent.</p>
+
+<p>The introduction of nickel as a covering for mountings has produced
+a marked change in some lines of goods, supplanting as it has in a
+great measure burnishing on bits, stirrups, spurs, etc., and being
+largely used as a plate for all kinds of harness mountings. The nickel
+is deposited by the electro process, but, as it is a hard metal, it
+wears well. The color is a bluish white, more closely resembling finely
+polished steel than any thing else. It does not tarnish easily, and
+will not rust. The only objection to it aside from the color is that
+it will sometimes peel—that is, the nickel will become detached from
+the iron or composition core; but this is due either to some defect in
+cleaning the surface to be plated or in the manner of depositing the
+nickel. Improvements are being made in the process of depositing the
+nickel, and there is every reason to believe that the objectionable
+features will be overcome, and with the reduction in price it will take
+the place of tinned and other low priced white metal goods.</p>
+
+<p>The next class are those goods made of some composition metal, such
+as brass, oroide, aluminum, and German silver. Brass has long been a
+favorite mounting, though in this country it has been deemed better
+suited to express and other heavy mountings than for coach or light
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</span>
+carriage harness; but fashion has once more brought it into use on
+coach harness, and it is likely, for a time at least, to assume the
+position held by gold for some years past. The advantages of brass are
+that it can be cast to any form, retains its malleability, is quite
+dense, and readily receives a brilliant polish; but its proneness to
+tarnish is an objection which tends to overcome its good qualities.
+The color is regulated by the proportions of the metals forming the
+compound, and skill in the moulder in turning it off just when it has
+been raised to the proper heat.</p>
+
+<p>Oroide, like brass, is a yellow metal, and when first introduced was
+recommended as a substitute for gold; when polished it has a golden
+color, but it tarnishes too easily to be used without being plated. It,
+however, furnishes an excellent base for gilding, and for that reason
+is largely used. It can be cast as easily as brass, and is equally
+malleable; it can also be used for plating iron articles which are to
+be gilded, but if not plated or gilded it possesses but few advantages
+over ordinary brass.</p>
+
+<p>Aluminum, or, as it is also called, alumina bronze, is the finest
+yellow metal produced; its color closely resembles that of gold, while
+it is susceptible of as high a polish as the latter; it is tough,
+though next to gold in lightness, but its high price prevents its being
+used for any but the most expensive mountings.</p>
+
+<p>German silver is used to a considerable extent for mountings which are
+to be plated with silver. For this purpose it is the best white metal
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</span>
+known; other kinds have been introduced, but they have not proven
+suitable for mountings. The objection to all composition castings is
+their lack of rigidity, and they should never be used for check rein
+hooks of any kind; these should be of iron, and plated to correspond
+with the terrets, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Composition possesses one great advantage over iron which should be
+understood by harness makers and consumers. It does not rust, and
+can therefore be used in localities where iron can not, owing to the
+proneness of the latter to rust—particularly on the sea coast, where
+the sea air acts very injuriously on plated mountings.</p>
+
+<p>Covered mountings consist of two kinds, those in which the metal is
+covered with leather, and, secondly, those having a metal core covered
+with a plastic composition. Leather covered is one of the oldest styles
+of mounting in use, but it was many years before it reached the state
+of perfection so noticeable at the present time. The durability, as
+well as the appearance of these mountings, depends upon the character
+of the leather used and the manner of putting it on. Calfskin, or very
+fine grained kip, are the only kinds of leather suited to covering
+mountings, but many of the cheaper grades are covered with sheepskin or
+thin split leather. Those conversant with working leather can readily
+understand the advantage arising from the use of thin, light stock,
+the work of putting on being reduced at least one half thereby. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</span>
+inferior character of the work shows itself in a short time in the
+seams ripping or the leather cracking. Thick, firm leather requires
+more care in putting on and stitching, but it finishes much finer, and
+is more durable than the cheaper work.</p>
+
+<p>The manner of covering is very simple: the leather is first cut to
+the required shape; it is then soaked in water until it is soft and
+pliable, after which paste is applied, and the leather is worked around
+the metal by means of slicking sticks, and the edges joined by means of
+pinchers, or by placing the article in dies and pressing them together
+and allowing them to remain on until the leather is dry, after which
+the seam is stitched by hand or machine, the welt trued off, and the
+leather blacked and finished.</p>
+
+<p>The liability of the seam ripping has caused manufacturers to resort to
+different methods of putting on the leather and securing it; one method
+is the use of two seams on the edges in place of the one center seam so
+long in use; the advantage claimed for this method is the protection
+given to one side of the seam by the metal lining, and at the same time
+the article produced is more ornamental.</p>
+
+<p>Another plan is to dispense with the seam entirely on the outside;
+this is done by joining the edges of the leather on the inside of the
+ring, these being protected by the lining; imitations of the double and
+single seams are produced by casting them on the iron and working the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</span>
+leather down smooth to the outlines of the metal. The most recent
+improvement in making leather covered mountings is to draw the leather
+over the metal ring, which has previously been channeled, to allow
+for the full thickness of the leather, the rim on the edge forming
+a perfect protection to the leather; this style is known as the
+“Centennial,” an illustration of which will be found on <a href="#Page_263">page 263</a>.
+Small leather covered harness buckles are more generally used than any
+others, the greater portion of these being imported from England, where
+they are produced at much lower prices than in America.</p>
+
+<p>The composition covered mountings are hard rubber and celluloid. The
+first was patented in 1866, by Ralph Dunham, of Connecticut, as a
+covering for harness buckles and rings; in 1867 Andrew Albright, of
+Newark, N. J., obtained a patent for covering harness and carriage
+mountings with rubber, these two patents being the first taken
+out—though early in the history of hard rubber, experiments were made
+in covering harness mountings, but the idea was abandoned; but since
+the two patents above mentioned were taken out great improvements have
+been made, and rubber mountings are an acknowledged success.</p>
+
+<p>The manufacture of these mountings, though not directly connected
+with the manufacture of harness, is interesting, and a description
+of the process will serve to give the reader a general idea of their
+peculiarities and merits. Every article is made with a metal core of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</span>
+about the same weight as that used for leather covered work. This core,
+or casting, is first cleaned up and made perfectly true by being struck
+up in a die; if any portion is to be plated, this is done, and the
+article is then taken to the rubber room to be covered. The rubber used
+is of the best Para gum, mixed in the proportion of two parts of gum to
+one part of pulverized sulphur; it is furnished in long sheets, varying
+from one to four lines French measure in thickness, and is kept rolled
+up in enameled cloth. Sheets of the rubber are laid out on a table
+and cut to such shapes as are needed for each article to be covered.
+The various pieces are then laid out on a piece of enameled cloth and
+saturated with benzine, covered up, and allowed to remain in this
+condition overnight, by which time the rubber becomes sticky; it is
+then wrapped around the metal body, care being taken to exclude air and
+to firmly weld the edges; after covering, the plated parts, if there be
+any, are covered with tin foil, when they are ready to be vulcanized;
+to do this the goods are either placed in moulds, buried in soapstone,
+or hung in an open pan. The vulcanator is a large tube made of boiler
+iron, and sufficiently strong to sustain a very heavy pressure of
+steam. After the goods are in the vulcanator, the door is closed and
+packed tight and the steam let on; if the goods are in pans and are to
+be cured by “open steam,” they are subjected to a heat of 20 degrees
+for one hour; 10 additional degrees are gradually added each hour, until
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</span>
+65 degrees are reached (where the goods are in soapstone, the heat is
+raised to 65 degrees at the start). After having been subjected to
+this heat for the proper length of time, the goods are removed, and
+all small articles, such as buckles, rings, etc., are thrown into a
+tumbling barrel and tumbled with charcoal and water until the rough
+edges are removed; they are then placed into a steam box and heated;
+each article is then placed into steel dies and pressed by powerful
+hydraulic presses; this sets the rubber, forms a true finish, and sets
+a row of imitation stitches; the smaller articles are again tumbled for
+a short time, when they are ready to be finished. Large articles have
+to be trued up by hand, then cleaned on the ash wheel, from which they
+are taken to the buff wheels; the first is used with rotten stone, the
+second is dry; having passed through these, the articles have a fine
+polish and a jet black color, after which they are lined and plated,
+and made ready for the market. Up to the present time these goods
+have never been made anywhere but in this country. They have a fine
+finish and are very durable, and will, without doubt, eventually become
+popular wherever harness is used.</p>
+
+<p>Celluloid mountings are of recent origin, and are made only in this
+country. The composition is a chemical compound which closely resembles
+amber; it can be colored any desirable shade, and does not fade through
+use. These mountings, like those of rubber, have a metal core coated
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</span>
+with the composition. The process of manufacture is interesting. The
+castings are first trued up; they are then taken to the stuffer to be
+coated; they are then placed into moulds, or “stuffing dies.” These are
+made of metal. The recess for the casting is provided with a number
+of small iron pins, upon which the castings rest. The arrangement of
+the moulds is precisely the same as that for casting metal. After the
+castings are placed into position, the moulds are closed up and placed
+into a recess at the foot of the stuffing cylinder. The latter is
+nearly filled with celluloid, and heated up to 190 degrees. After the
+die is secured in its place, a plunger, which is worked by hydraulic
+pressure, descends upon the hot gum and forces it into the dies in
+sufficient quantities to completely fill the moulds and cover the
+metal cores. The die is then removed, and in a few minutes emptied of
+its contents, and again made ready for stuffing. After being stuffed,
+the goods are removed to a drying room heated by steam, and allowed
+to season. They are then taken to the hydraulic forming presses; the
+mountings are put into highly polished steel dies, and submitted to a
+fifty-ton pressure, which renders the material compact and produces
+a finely finished surface, after which they are lined, plated, and
+finished up ready for delivery.</p>
+
+<p>Black is the predominating color, but a very handsome imitation of
+russet, as well as a good flesh color, has also been produced. As there
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</span>
+is no difficulty in securing any color, the production of other shades
+than those mentioned depends upon the demand.</p>
+
+<p>Celluloid martingale rings are a new article of manufacture. These
+closely resemble ivory in appearance, are much stronger, and are sold
+at lower prices than the latter. They are made of solid gum, which,
+after being colored, runs out into tubes of the required size. These
+are cut up into rings and thoroughly seasoned, after which they are
+taken to automatic lathes and turned up. They are then polished, and
+packed ready for shipping.</p>
+
+<p>Tinned mountings, or, as they are known by the trade, “XC plate,” are
+among the cheapest lines of goods. The metal castings are thoroughly
+cleaned, and then dipped into molten tin. The quality of the deposit
+depends entirely upon the skill and care of the workman.</p>
+
+<p>Japanned mountings are those covered with a coat of black varnish which
+is solidified by heat. These are plain, and, if properly made, quite
+durable. They are, however, so well known that no extended description
+is necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The various illustrations of mountings in this chapter represent the
+popular styles now in the market, some of which are made by the general
+trade, while others are patented either as designs or as new articles
+of manufacture. The “Grant,” “Bismarck,” and “Arlington” are patented
+as designs; the “Double Seam,” as a design and a new article of
+manufacture. This was fully described in connection with other leather
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</span>
+covered mountings. The “Imperial” is patented as a design. This is
+made of composition metal, either white or yellow, and lined with hard
+rubber, the latter being turned up and finished off flush with the
+outside, leaving a narrow black edge with a metallic band center. This
+pattern is not lined, the wear coming direct upon the rubber, which,
+owing to its hardness, will wear longer than metal linings. One pattern
+of the ball wire mounting is also patented. The wire of this is covered
+with rubber and finished perfectly plain, while the ball and base are plated.</p>
+
+<p>The “Centennial” is another patented mounting. This is made of metal
+cast with a recess upon the outside of the band, into which leather
+is worked while wet; the ends, firmly secured at the post, are an
+imitation seam pricked in on both edges. The appearance of this is
+exactly the reverse of the “Imperial.” The center is black, and the
+lining, edges, and head are of metal.</p>
+
+<p>The illustrations of post, pad, and bolt hooks and head terrets give a
+general idea of these articles, though not representing all the styles.
+All the popular patterns of terrets have hooks and fly terrets to
+match; and in ordering, the harness maker or dealer can always procure
+them in sets or by the package.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_263a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="264" >
+   <p class="center">Imperial.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_263b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="264" >
+   <p class="center">Centennial.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img src="images/i_263c.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="283" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2">Grant.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_263d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="265" >
+   <p class="center">Ball Wire.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_263e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="277" >
+   <p class="center">Plain Wire.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_264a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="292" >
+   <p class="center">Bismarck.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_264b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="228" >
+   <p class="center">Arlington.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img src="images/i_264c.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="302" >
+    <p class="f120 spb2">Double Seam.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_264d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="284" >
+   <p class="center">Oval.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_264e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="284" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_265a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="250" >
+   <p class="center"> Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_265b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="225" >
+   <p class="center">Arlington.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_265c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="231" >
+   <p class="center">Oval.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_265d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="234" >
+   <p class="center">Ball Wire.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_266a.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="266" >
+   <p class="center"> Centennial.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_266b.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="130" >
+   <p class="center">Grant.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_266c.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="258" >
+   <p class="center">Wire Ball.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_266d.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="299" >
+   <p class="center">Acorn.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_267a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="428" >
+   <p class="center">Band Fly Hook.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_267b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="446" >
+   <p class="center">Oval Fly Hook.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_267c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="272" >
+   <p class="center">Wire Ball.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_267d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="262" >
+   <p class="center">Plain Wire.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_268a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="339" >
+   <p class="center">Ball Wire, Fly.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_268b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="278" >
+   <p class="center">Oval Post Hook.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_268c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="218" >
+   <p class="center">Band C Hook.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_268d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="231" >
+   <p class="center">Oval C Hook.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_269a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="263" >
+   <p class="center">Oval Fly Bolt Hook.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_269b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="286" >
+   <p class="center">Band Post Hook.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_269c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="155" >
+   <p class="center">Wire.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_269d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="227" >
+   <p class="center">Oval Pad Hook.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_270a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="148" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_270b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="157" >
+   <p class="center">Oval Wire.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_270c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="165" >
+   <p class="center">Flat Top.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_270d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="129" >
+   <p class="center">Scroll Duck Bill.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_270e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="149" >
+   <p class="center">Oval.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_270f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="125" >
+   <p class="center">Plain Duck Bill.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXI.<br><span class="h_subtitle">BUCKLES.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> great variety of
+harness buckles in the market enables the harness manufacturer to
+procure those suited to every pattern of mounting. The illustrations in
+this chapter represent patterns suited to general use. In addition to
+these, buckles are made to match every style of mounting. An extended
+description is not necessary. The “Sensible” is one of the best in
+the market, owing to the form of the under side. It does not bend the
+strap as much as other patterns; it can be used with oval, “Grant,” and
+band mountings. The “Victoria” and “Vermont” match well with the same
+patterns of mountings. The band, “Bonner,” and “Square Philadelphia”
+are used with flat band patterns, the “West End” and other wire buckles
+with wire and oval terrets. Trace and collar buckles are made in as
+great variety as the smaller harness, the patterns being similar, but
+the center bar is used but little except as a trace buckle.</p>
+
+<p>A buckle peculiar to this country—one in which the trace lies
+perfectly flat and is easily adjusted—is known as the “wedge tongue.”
+This was the invention of Mr. Coles. Improvements were made by various
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</span>
+persons, until at the present time there are several varieties
+operating much the same as, and bearing a close resemblance to, the
+original. The “Coles,” <a href="#FIG_21_1">Fig. 1</a>, represents
+the original after having been so modified as to make it practical.
+The “Coles,” <a href="#FIG_21_2">Fig. 2</a>, represents the latest
+improvement in the way of a spring, which prevents the wedge getting
+out of place when the trace is not drawn up tight. The peculiarity of
+this buckle is in the wedge. This is provided with a tongue or spur on
+the under side, which sets into a hole in the trace and takes the place
+of the ordinary tongue; when the trace is drawn up, the wedge bears
+against the cross bar and holds the spur in position, and at the same
+time produces a pressure which relieves the strap at the hole of much
+of the strain which would otherwise be put upon it.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_21_3">Fig. 3</a> shows the “Kinne.” This, when in
+position, bears a close resemblance to the “Cole,” but it operates
+somewhat differently. The cross bar is loose and the bearings upon the
+pier plate press against it, producing the same result as the wedge.</p>
+
+<p><a href="#FIG_21_4">Fig. 4</a> represents the “Kinne” without loops.
+This is used on single harness. These buckles are very strong, and are
+made in all sizes from 1¼ to 2 inches.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img  id="FIG_21_1" src="images/fig_21_1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="223" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Fig. 1.</p>
+    <img id="FIG_21_2" src="images/fig_21_2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="228" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Fig. 2.</p>
+    <img id="FIG_21_3" src="images/fig_21_3.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="159" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Fig. 3.</p>
+    <img id="FIG_21_4" src="images/fig_21_4.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="162" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Fig. 4.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_274a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="152" >
+   <p class="center">Sensible.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_274b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="157" >
+   <p class="center">Vermont.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_274c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="178" >
+   <p class="center">Victoria.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_274d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="162" >
+   <p class="center">Metropolitan.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_274e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="176" >
+   <p class="center">Philadelphia.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_274f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="167" >
+   <p class="center">Union.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_275a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="151" >
+   <p class="center">Square Philadelphia.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_275b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="149" >
+   <p class="center">Bonner.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_275c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="163" >
+   <p class="center">Crescent.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_275d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="165" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_275e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="169" >
+   <p class="center">West End.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_275f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="153" >
+   <p class="center">Crown.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_276a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="142" >
+   <p class="center">Wire.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_276b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="161" >
+   <p class="center">Horseshoe.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_276c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="162" >
+   <p class="center">Square Roller.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_276d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="151" >
+   <p class="center">Barrel Roller.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_276e.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="139" >
+   <p class="center">Covered Ring.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_276f.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="138" >
+   <p class="center">Wire Bridle.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_276g.jpg" alt="" width="150" height="143" >
+   <p class="center">Covered Bridle.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_277a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="159" >
+   <p class="center">Ribbon.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_277b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="144" >
+   <p class="center">Sensible.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_277c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="150" >
+   <p class="center">Light Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_277d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="149" >
+   <p class="center">Covered Roller.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_277e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="140" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_277f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="162" >
+   <p class="center">Covered.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_278a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="158" >
+   <p class="center">Imperial.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_278b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="154" >
+   <p class="center">Wire.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_278c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="158" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_278d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="157" >
+   <p class="center">Boston.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_278e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="140" >
+   <p class="center">Arlington.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_278f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="150" >
+   <p class="center">City.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_279a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="163" >
+   <p class="center">Band.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_279b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="180" >
+   <p class="center">Philadelphia.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_279c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="153" >
+   <p class="center">Boston.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_279d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="160" >
+   <p class="center">Oval.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_279e.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="136" >
+   <p class="center">Square.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_279f.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="116" >
+   <p class="center">Loop End.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_280a.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="280" >
+   <p class="center">Congress.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_280b.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="252" >
+   <p class="center">Manhattan.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/i_280c.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="258" >
+   <p class="center">Perforated Loop.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  src="images/i_280d.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="284" >
+   <p class="center">Sensible.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXII.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<h3>BRIDLE BITS.</h3>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> ingenuity of bit
+makers of all countries has been taxed to the utmost to produce bits
+suited to all horses, and many are the harsh and brutal devices
+introduced; but with the exception of the Mexican or Texan bit, very
+few of the harsh kinds are now in use. For this reason no attention
+will be paid to any but those suited to the general trade. The
+illustrations show a good variety, but they all come under the general
+classification of snaffle, ring, bradoon, or lever.</p>
+
+<p>The snaffle is frequently defined as a bit having a jointed mouth;
+this is incorrect, as the cheek piece alone decides the name, the mouth
+pieces being designated as stiff, jointed, post, chain, leather, hinge,
+etc. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate two styles of snaffle. The first is the
+regular pattern; the second, the “Dexter;” both are made up with stiff
+as well as jointed mouths. The origin of the name is unknown; but when
+a bit maker receives an order for a “snaffle-bit,” he furnishes one
+with cheek pieces like that in <a href="#FIG_22_1">Fig. 1</a>, the ring
+and bars of which are of one piece; if a “Dexter” snaffle is ordered,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</span>
+it is like <a href="#FIG_22_2">Fig. 2</a>, the peculiarity of which is
+the shape of the mouth piece, it being large at the cheek and small at
+the joint.</p>
+
+<p>A ring bit is one having rings instead of rings and cheek pieces
+combined. The portion, however, which is surrounded by the head on the
+mouth piece is turned so as to give a straight bearing and provide two
+shoulders, which prevents the ring slipping through the hole in the
+heads of the mouth piece. The bradoon bit has a ring cheek, but the
+wire is of uniform thickness, and the ring is loose in the ends of
+the mouth piece. Lever, or gag, bits (as they are generally called)
+are made up in a variety of ornamental patterns, with stiff or loose
+cheeks. The “Hanoverian,” <a href="#FIG_22_3">Fig. 3</a>, is used more
+than any other pattern. For coach or coupé harness the “Buxton” is the
+most popular. This has a scroll cheek and a loose mouth, which slides
+up and down on a straight section of the cheek.</p>
+
+<p>Trotting snaffles are made in a variety of patterns, and as a rule with
+half cheeks. The “Dan Mace” is one of this class; the small loop on
+the cheek piece is used to secure a cross strap, thus connecting the
+two cheeks in such a manner that they act together when either rein
+is pulled. The “Ben Lane,” “Dexter,” and other half cheek bits are
+also provided with the loop. The various other patterns shown need no
+explanation.</p>
+
+<p>Bits are made of wrought-iron throughout, wrought mouth and malleable
+cheeks, or all malleable. The first are sometimes designated as steel
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</span>
+bits; but this is a mere pretence, as steel is seldom used in their
+manufacture, fine iron being preferable. The wrought bit is the most
+expensive, but it is the only reliable kind, and no horse possessing
+any spirit should be driven with any other. Next to this is the
+wrought mouth and malleable cheek; and lastly, the all malleable, a
+bit which should never be used. Some are sufficiently strong, but the
+unreliability of malleable iron should condemn it for bits of any kind.</p>
+
+<p>A very convenient manner of numbering has been adopted by some bit
+manufacturers, by which a buyer can tell at a glance just what the
+article is. If a buyer orders a No. 1336, he would be furnished with
+a first quality ring bit with a <span class="fs_120">⁶/₁₆</span> inch
+mouth piece, having two 1½ inch rings. Should the number be 1356, he
+would secure the same kind of bit with three inch rings; for a loose
+ring bit the first and last numbers would be the same, with 24 as the
+pattern number. Snaffles are designated by 52, and half cheek of the
+regular pattern by 53, and “Hanoverians” by 76. A first quality loose
+ring bit would be designated by No. 1246, a snaffle by 1526, a half
+cheek snaffle by 1536, and a “Hanoverian” by 1766, the first and last
+numbers being changed to designate quality and size. When used first,
+the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., represent the quality; the final numbers,
+5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 give the size of the mouth pieces in sixteenths of an
+inch; the addition of the fraction ½ designates a jointed mouth.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img id="FIG_22_1" src="images/fig_22_1.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="253" >
+   <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span><br> Snaffle.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  id="FIG_22_3" src="images/fig_22_3.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="310" >
+   <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 3.</span><br> Hanoverian.</p>
+   </div>
+<br>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/fig_22_6.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="195" >
+   <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 6.</span><br> Ben Lane.</p>
+  </div>
+
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img  id="FIG_22_2" src="images/fig_22_2.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="241" >
+   <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span><br> Dexter.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcontainer">
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/fig_22_dexter.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="180" >
+   <p class="center">Half Check Dexter.</p>
+  </div>
+  <div class="figsub">
+   <img src="images/fig_22_5.jpg" alt="" width="200" height="169" >
+   <p class="center"><span class="smcap">Fig. 5.</span><br> Dan Mace.</p>
+   </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img src="images/fig_22_ring.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="209" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Ring.</p>
+    <img src="images/fig_22_bradoon.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="195" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2">Check Bradoon.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</span>
+Bits are finished in a variety of styles, as follows: “Polished,”
+those which are not plated, but are burnished up in the best manner;
+“nickel,” those plated with nickel; “all over silver-plated,” those in
+which the cheeks and ends of the mouth piece are plated; “half silver
+plated,” those having only the cheek pieces plated; “outside silver
+plated,” those in which the outsides of the cheek pieces are plated.
+Plating with other metals is designated in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<h3>BITTING HARNESS.</h3>
+
+<p>The two illustrations of bitting harness in this chapter represent
+the most complicated, though undoubtedly the best for this purpose,
+which are free to manufacturers in this country. There are several
+patented devices, but a description or illustration would be of no
+general value. <a href="#FIG_22_1-1">Fig. 1</a> represents the plain
+wooden jockey, the saddle to which is made of iron padded with felt and
+covered with collar leather; the ends of the reins are of elastic web.
+The manner of attaching, style of halter, crupper strap, etc., are all
+well delineated and require no explanation. <a href="#FIG_22_2-2">Fig. 2</a>
+represents an improved jockey of English manufacture; the arms
+of this are of gutta percha and whalebone instead of wood; the various
+straps are all provided with elastic ends, which, it is claimed,
+produces the desired result in a more humane manner than when the old
+style, as shown by Fig. 1, is used.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img  id="FIG_22_1-1" src="images/fig_22_1-1.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="438" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 1.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</span>
+Another style, bearing a close resemblance to Fig. 1, has steel springs
+attached to the back of the arms at the lower ends, to which the reins
+are attached; the wooden arms are provided with slots for the reins
+to pass through before being secured to the steel springs. The plain
+bitting harness, in which the cheeks, etc., are attached to a broad
+surcingle, needs no description.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+    <img  id="FIG_22_2-2" src="images/fig_22_2-2.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="480" >
+    <p class="smcap f120 spb2"><span class="smcap">Fig. 2.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXIII.<br><span class="h_subtitle">REPAIRING HARNESS.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">To</span> repair harness well
+is quite as much of an art as to make up new stock, and, owing to the
+gradual spread of the custom of sending the harness to the shop instead
+of leaving the matter to stablemen when repairs are needed, the proper
+performance of the work is, in a business point of view, an absolute
+necessity. Repairing is something more than securing a ripped stitch,
+restoring a buckle, or splicing a strap; these the merest novice in
+the business can accomplish; but to repair properly requires skill,
+judgment, and experience. This is particularly the case at the present
+time, when new methods and directions are found in every agricultural
+journal, and not unfrequently in those devoted to mechanics, and which,
+from the nature of the articles recommended, as well as from the
+crudeness of the instructions, are calculated to mislead.</p>
+
+<p>In repairing, two results are to be sought—one is the complete
+restoration of strength and form; the other, renovation and softening
+of the leather, so that in appearance and pliability it will be as
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</span>
+nearly as possible what it was when first made. To do this, unbuckle
+and separate all patent and fancy colored from the plain leather
+wherever it can be done without ripping; also from pads, gig saddles,
+and such other parts as are lined with cloth or are stuffed; then
+clean the straps. These, if gummed, should be scraped with a smooth
+edged scraper, and then washed with tepid water and crown soap; if
+the latter can not be had, use castile soap in its place (strong soap
+should never be used, as the alkalies penetrate the leather and harden
+it). Turpentine, benzine, etc., are often recommended for removing the
+surface grease and accumulated dirt; but nothing will more effectually
+destroy harness leather than these articles: they penetrate almost
+instantly, and burn and harden the fibre, and if used to any extent,
+the injury can not be corrected. Tepid water, soap, a scraper, and a
+little labor will prove equally efficacious in removing all superfluous
+substances, without leaving injurious effects.</p>
+
+<p>After thoroughly cleaning the leather, make all needed repairs, black
+up, and, with the exception of polishing, treat the leather the same as
+though the harness were new; then with a stiff brush clean out whatever
+dirt may be in and around the stitches, loops, buckles, etc., treating
+both sides of the strap in the same manner. This brushing is often
+omitted, but it is almost as important as the cleaning of the surface
+of the leather, as the fine dirt is thus removed, and it does not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</span>
+interfere in any way with the penetration of the oil or grease into the
+pores of the leather or around the stitches.</p>
+
+<p>The harness now being cleaned and repaired, it is ready for oiling
+or greasing. There are two ways of doing this: the first, which is
+applicable to leather which has become hard, lost its color, and needs
+thorough renovation, is to apply a little vinegar black wherever the
+leather appears red; then dampen each strap with a small quantity of
+tepid water, applying it with a sponge, and, as soon as the surface
+of the leather is dry, give it a coat of pure neat’s-foot oil (the
+purer the oil the better); the oil penetrates the leather, the water
+having opened the pores, and it is quickly absorbed. Some authorities
+recommend castor oil in place of the neat’s-foot, but the latter
+is undoubtedly the best, as it restores to the leather some of its
+natural properties, and therefore better assimilates with the fibre.
+Castor oil, however, is an excellent article, and is only inferior
+to neat’s-foot or pure cod. It penetrates rapidly, softens well, and
+at the same time retains a firm hold; it will also last as long as
+neat’s-foot oil, and is free from gum, but, owing to its heavy body,
+it fills up the pores and thus prevents the subsequent absorption of
+tallow. The animal oil, on the other hand, opens the pores, softens the
+fibre, and fits it to take up a much greater quantity of tallow, which
+is, after all, the only real protection against the action of water.
+The tallow should be warmed sufficiently to allow of its being spread
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</span>
+on with a brush, but it must not be hot. Apply it as soon as the oil
+has dried in, and brush well in order to assist it to enter the pores.
+Lay all the straps out straight, and, after coating them with tallow,
+allow them to remain in that condition for several hours; then rub
+them with a woolen cloth until all surplus grease is removed from the
+surface, after which varnish black may be applied if desired; but the
+latter is not absolutely necessary, excepting when the leather is much
+worn and the color injured.</p>
+
+<p>The second manner of applying grease is to slightly dampen the leather
+after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and as soon as the surface
+moisture is removed, apply a coat of warm tallow, and allow the straps
+to remain coated with it until the moisture has died out, afterward
+cleaning the tallow off as in the first case. This answers very well
+for harness when the leather has not become hard but looks dry on the
+surface. In the absence of grease, leather absorbs water very rapidly,
+and unless the pores be well filled with the former, the latter will
+soon obtain the mastery and convert the leather from a soft, pliant,
+tough material to a hard, bony, and brittle one.</p>
+
+<p>Tallow of itself will resist the action of water much longer than
+neat’s-foot oil, but it does not impart the same softness to the fibre
+as does the latter, while the oil, though it softens the leather, fails
+to form much of a barrier against the entrance of water. Both articles
+are therefore necessary in order to secure pliability and durability.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</span>
+Other greases may be used, but in none are the original qualities of
+the leather contained to the same extent as in those recommended.</p>
+
+<p>When the leather presents a rusty appearance, but is not red, it should
+be blacked with hatters’ black, or a more simple black made of 2 ounces
+of the extract of logwood and ½ ounce of bichromate of potash pounded
+fine and dissolved in 4 quarts of boiling rain or river water. This can
+be bottled and kept on hand. It should be applied with a brush.</p>
+
+<p>Harness when in use becomes soiled either by the action of the
+atmosphere on the grease—the latter being drawn to the surface, where
+it becomes impregnated with dust, and forms a dirty coating—or by the
+impurities in the oil used in currying the leather. In the latter case,
+in addition to the dirty grease, spots of gum of various sizes form on
+the surface. These can only be removed by scraping, or by the use of an
+ammoniated soap, made of oleic acid heated to a temperature of 100°,
+into which ammonia (of 0.96 specific gravity) is stirred until the
+smell of the latter ceases to disappear by action of the acid.</p>
+
+<p>Patent leather can only be restored to its original polish by the use
+of varnish, but it may be greatly improved by applying castor oil,
+and, after it has been upon the leather an hour or more, removing the
+surplus grease with a woolen cloth, and rubbing with a dry silk or
+woolen rag until the polish is brought out. In every case remove all
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</span>
+the mountings possible without ripping the straps, and clean them
+before replacing.</p>
+
+<p>It requires some labor to thus clean, repair, and oil a harness, but
+these directions, if well followed, will secure a first-class job, and
+if the leather has not become bony and harsh from constant exposure, it
+will be to all appearances as good as new.</p>
+
+<p>For repairing or new work there is no blacking in the market that
+answers the purpose better than that of Frank Miller &amp; Co. It possesses
+the necessary elements for softening and giving a fine finish to the
+leather, and increasing its durability.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXIV.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">CARE OF HARNESS<br> IN FACTORY AND STABLE.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">The</span> appearance and
+durability of harness to a great extent depends upon the treatment
+received after leaving the hands of the workman; yet a large percentage
+of manufacturers, as well as consumers, are very careless and negligent
+in protecting their goods from injury by the elements. Consumers, as
+a rule, are entirely unacquainted with the peculiarities of the stock
+used, and they can not, therefore, be expected to know how to guard it
+against various destructive influences, but the harness maker can not
+plead ignorance. Leather as received from the tanner does not possess
+the requisite qualifications for harness. These the currier supplies
+by the addition of oil and grease, together with the labor needed in
+preparing it, without which it would lack the suppleness and durability
+so necessary in this kind of stock. The preservation of the materials
+added by the currier, therefore, becomes an absolute necessity in order
+to prevent premature decay.</p>
+
+<p>Moisture is the great destroyer; it absorbs the grease, hardens the
+fibre, and renders the leather weak and brittle; it also causes the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</span>
+metal in the mountings to rust, weakening them, and adds another enemy
+to the leather. Grease only will resist the effects of moisture, and
+every effort should be made to keep the leather well supplied with this
+needed protector.</p>
+
+<p>Manufacturers often overlook the importance of caring for the harness
+in stock, and also of instructing their customers how to preserve
+it when in use. With some the idea is maintained, that ignorance on
+the part of the consumer, as regards the care of harness, accrues to
+the benefit of the manufacturer. This is a serious mistake. The most
+successful man is he who produces the most durable article, and it
+should be part of a manufacturer’s duty to instruct the buyer how to
+treat the article purchased. But all manufacturers do not understand
+this secret of their business, and a portion of this chapter therefore
+will be devoted to the care of stock in the warerooms.</p>
+
+<p>A certain amount of made up stock must be displayed, but there is no
+necessity for exposing more than one harness of a kind. Three months’
+exposure in a wareroom will injure a harness as much as three months
+of constant use, providing the user knows how to take care of it. In
+all instances leather strapping, if exposed at all, should be in glass
+cases impervious to dust and air; but no showcase can be made tight
+enough to fully exclude these elements.</p>
+
+<p>During a great part of the year the air at night is laden with
+moisture, and, not unfrequently, during the spring and fall months the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</span>
+atmosphere is humid and heavy; the moist air permeates every thing, and
+by its action upon the leather and mountings rapidly absorbs the life
+of the former and rusts or tarnishes the latter. The white mould which
+is often observed upon the leather is caused by the grease being drawn
+to the surface by moisture. After the surface is covered with this
+mould, the absorption of the grease continues in all kinds of weather
+until the cause is removed. The manufacturer therefore should remove it
+as quickly as possible by brushing it, and afterwards rubbing with a
+dry cloth, and finally with a greasy rag or “shammy;” then restore the
+polish with an old silk handkerchief. If the mountings are tarnished,
+clean them with a “shammy;” if this can not be done, remove them clean
+with a little rotten stone. Gilt mountings should not be exposed.
+Sample sets are convenient; but when these can not be had, the gilt
+should be protected by wrapping it in tissue paper.</p>
+
+<p>In hanging up the various parts of the harness, use forms, instead of
+pegs or hooks, except for traces or reins, which should always be hung
+out straight. Harness made up for stock should not be “gummed” and
+hung in cases, but, after being finished by the workman, all the plain
+leather should be covered with a thin coat of “daub” made of one part
+of neat’s-foot oil and two parts of tallow—the latter being thoroughly
+melted, after which the oil is poured in and the whole thoroughly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</span>
+stirred until cold;—this will feed the leather and prevent injury. The
+patent and fancy leather should be wrapped on soft paper, and every
+piece, whether of patent or plain leather, laid out straight and smooth
+in shallow drawers and covered with thick paper. Russet strapping of
+all kinds should be kept in dark cases or drawers, as the sunlight is
+sure to affect the color, the most exposed parts showing the greatest
+change.</p>
+
+<p>harness makers who have made the care of harness a study have no
+difficulty in filling orders at a short notice. Their course is to make
+up traces, reins, turnbacks, docks, back-bands, and other straight
+strapping, and lay them away in grease as before directed. When a
+harness is ordered, all that is required is to make the other parts,
+finish up the necessary straight straps, attach the mountings, and
+put them together. In this way they are enabled to keep their workmen
+employed at all times, and obviate the necessity of hiring extra hands
+in the busy season. If the manufacturer delivers the harness to his
+customer in good order, he does all he is legally bound to do; but his
+moral obligation extends much farther—he should instruct the buyer how
+to preserve it. The following hints may serve to assist him in this
+direction:</p>
+
+<p>The harness room should always be as far from the horses as the size
+of the building will allow, as the gases arising from the stable are
+very injurious to the leather and mountings; it should be provided with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</span>
+forms for the bridles, pads, saddles, breechings, etc., and hooks for
+reins, hames, and traces. If a separate room can not be had for this
+purpose, closets should be provided.</p>
+
+<p>Harness are often quite wet when taken from the horse. When this is
+caused by rain, hang them up in some place where they can dry, and
+before putting them in the storeroom rub them well with a “shammy,”
+or wash-leather, then apply a little crown soap and rub with the
+hands until the polish is restored; clean off the under side of the
+straps as carefully as the outside. If wet by sweat, dry as quickly
+as possible after taking them from the horse, as by the saline nature
+of the perspiration the grease is rapidly absorbed and the leather
+hardened; if the pads are wet, dry them thoroughly before putting them
+in the storeroom. For oiling, during the first year, at least, crown
+soap, applied as directed above, is all that is requisite for coach
+or carriage harness, but for team and other heavy harness a stronger
+grease is required. Cleaning and oiling should be done as often as once
+a month on harness which is in daily use. If the leather is soft, wash
+it with water applied with a “shammy,” then wring the latter nearly
+dry, and rub the leather thoroughly, after which apply a good harness
+oil. When each strap has been treated in this way, commence with the
+one first washed, and remove all surplus grease with a rag, then rub
+with an old piece of silk until the polish is restored. If the leather
+is hard and dry, it will be necessary to wash the straps well and wet
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</span>
+them enough to open the pores; lay the straps out straight, and, when
+surface dry apply a coat of neat’s-foot oil. When this has penetrated
+the leather, apply warm tallow with a brush, and allow the straps to
+remain coated with the tallow until the moisture has dried out of the
+leather, then with a rag remove all the surplus tallow, and clean the
+stitching with a stiff brush; then apply a coat of harness black.</p>
+
+<p>Cleaning mountings requires care, as they do not need to be scoured.
+Gold should never be rubbed with any thing harsher than the nap side of
+canton flannel; electro silver plate should also be cleaned carefully,
+as the plate is soft and the thin coating can be easily removed. Close
+plate silver will bear more scouring, but it is seldom necessary to
+do more than to rub it with a “shammy” darkened with tripoli and
+lampblack. If they are very much tarnished, they should be removed from
+the harness and washed in water and rubbed with tripoli. Brass is the
+most difficult metal to keep clean, but when rubbed each day the labor
+is materially decreased. In the chapter of recipes there are several
+directions for cleaning and polishing brass, any of which can be used
+to good advantage.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXV.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">LEATHER BLACKING—STAINS—<br>VARNISHES AND POLISHES.</span>
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+<h3>VINEGAR BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">For</span> giving color to the
+grain of leather there is no blacking that will at all compare with
+the well known vinegar black. This may be made in various ways. The
+simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure shavings from an
+iron turner and cover them with pure cider vinegar; heat up and set
+aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a cool place for
+two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for a few days, and
+draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a long time, and,
+while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain the hands.</p>
+
+<p>Another method is to cover iron scraps with sour beer, and allow them
+to stand for a month or more; then strain off the beer and bottle as
+before. A third method is to boil sulphate of iron in vinegar; mix some
+brewers’ yeast with beer and allow it to stand for twenty-four hours,
+then skim off the yeast and add the vinegar.</p>
+
+<h3>LOGWOOD BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Boil 1 pound of ground logwood, ½ pound of nut galls, and 1 ounce of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</span>
+verdigris in 1 gallon of water for two hours, then remove from the fire
+and allow it to stand until it is cold; strain off the liquor, and it
+will be ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>If to 1 pint of this mixture be added ¼ pound of white wax, ½ pound of
+brown sugar, and ½ pound of bone black rubbed smooth in turpentine, and
+the whole heated until thoroughly amalgamated, an excellent wax for
+finishing edges will be produced.</p>
+
+<p>Another logwood black is made by boiling a quantity of logwood bark in
+double its bulk of rain water for two or three hours, then straining
+off and adding ¼ of a pound of potash to 2 gallons of the liquor. This
+makes a good grain as well as edge black.</p>
+
+<h3>HATTERS’ BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>This black is unequaled for finishing. It is made by dissolving 1 pound
+of extract of logwood, ½ ounce of bichromate of potash, and 1 ounce of
+copperas in 1 gallon of water.</p>
+
+<p>Another formula, differing from the first in the quantities, is to
+dissolve 1 pound of extract of logwood, 2 ounces of copperas, and 1½
+ounces of bichromate of potash in 1½ gallons of water.</p>
+
+<h3>BALL BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Melt together 8 ounces of beef suet, 2 ounces of neat’s-foot oil, 2
+ounces of white wax, and 2 ounces of pulverized gum arabic; add 1 gill
+of turpentine, and a sufficient quantity of bone black to give the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</span>
+whole a good color; stir until thoroughly mixed, remove from the fire,
+continue to stir until cold, then roll into balls. To apply, warm the
+ball, rub it on the leather, and polish with a woolen cloth.</p>
+
+<p>English ball blacking for harness is composed of 1 ounce of lard, 1
+ounce of beeswax, 8 ounces of ivory black, 8 ounces of sugar, 4 ounces
+of linseed oil, and 2 or 3 ounces of water.</p>
+
+<p>Another kind is made of 2 ounces of hog’s lard, 8 ounces of best
+neat’s-foot oil, 2 ounces of beeswax, 10 ounces of ivory black, and
+8 ounces of water. Heat the whole to a boil, remove from the fire,
+stir until sufficiently cool, and form into balls about two inches in
+diameter.</p>
+
+<p>A third description is made of 2 ounces each of ivory black, copperas,
+and neat’s-foot oil, 4 ounces of brown sugar, 4 ounces of soft water,
+and 1 ounce of gum tragacanth; boil until the water has evaporated,
+stir until cold, then roll into balls or mould into cakes.</p>
+
+<p>A fourth is made of ½ pound of beeswax, 4 ounces of ivory black, 2
+ounces of Prussian blue, 2 ounces of spirits of turpentine, and 1 ounce
+of copal varnish; melt the wax, stir in the other ingredients, and,
+when cool, roll into balls.</p>
+
+<p>Still another famous harness and saddlery blacking is made of ¼ of an
+ounce of isinglass, ¼ of an ounce of indigo, 4 ounces of logwood, 2
+ounces of softsoap, 4 ounces of glue, and 1 pint of vinegar; the whole
+is warmed, mixed, strained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for use.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</span></p>
+
+<h3>LIQUID BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix a quantity of bone black with equal parts of neat’s-foot oil and
+brown sugar, in proportions to produce a thick paste; thin with vinegar
+and sulphuric acid in proportions of three parts of the former to one
+of the latter.</p>
+
+<p>A second liquid black is made by mixing 3 ounces of ivory black with
+1 tablespoonful of lemon acid, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a small
+quantity of vinegar, afterward adding 1 ounce each of sulphuric and
+muriatic acid; mix the whole together, and add a sufficient quantity of
+vinegar to make 1 pint in all.</p>
+
+<h3>LIEBIG’S BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix bone black in half its weight of molasses and one eighth its weight
+of olive oil, to which add half its weight of hydrochloric acid and one
+fourth its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a sufficient quantity
+of water to produce a thin paste.</p>
+
+<h3>PATENT HARNESS BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Heat together, over a slow fire, 2 ounces of white wax and 3 ounces of
+turpentine; when the wax is dissolved add 1 ounce of ivory black and 1
+dram of indigo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed; stir the mixture until
+cold. Apply with a cloth, and polish with a shoe brush.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</span></p>
+
+<h3>WATERPROOF PASTE BLACKING.</h3>
+
+<p>Melt together 4 ounces of black resin and 6 ounces of beeswax over a
+slow fire; when thoroughly dissolved, add 1 ounce of lampblack and ¼
+pound of finely powdered Prussian blue; stir the mixture well, and add
+sufficient turpentine to make a thin paste. Apply with a cloth, and
+polish with a brush.</p>
+
+<h3>CROWN SOAP BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Dissolve, over a slow fire, 1 pound of beeswax, 1 pound of crown soap,
+3 ounces of indigo, 4 ounces of ivory black, and ½ pint of oil of turpentine;
+as soon as dissolved remove from the fire, and stir until cold.</p>
+
+<h3>FINISHING BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together ½ ounce each of gelatin and indigo, 8 ounces of extract of
+logwood, 2 ounces of crown soap, 8 ounces of softened glue, and 1 quart
+of vinegar; heat the whole over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly
+mixed. Apply with a soft brush, and polish with a woolen cloth.</p>
+
+<h3>CORDOVA WAX.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together 1½ pints of red acid (chromic), 1 pint of beer, 1 gill of
+thick glue, 2 ounces of ivory black, and 1 dram of indigo; boil for
+half an hour, and apply with a sponge.</p>
+
+<h3>GERMAN BLACKING.</h3>
+
+<p>Soften 2 pounds of good glue, and melt it in an ordinary glue kettle;
+then dissolve 2 pounds of castile soap in warm water and pour it into
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</span>
+the glue; stir until well mixed, and add ½ pound of yellow wax cut into
+small pieces; stir well until the wax is melted, then add ½ pint of
+neat’s-foot oil and enough lampblack to give the desired color. When
+thoroughly mixed, it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<h3>ANILIN BLACK.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix 1 dram of fine anilin black with 60 drops of concentrated
+hydrochloric acid and 1½ ounces of alcohol. This produces a deep blue
+liquid, which, when diluted with 1½ ounces of shellac dissolved in
+alcohol, will produce a beautiful black.</p>
+
+<h3>BLACKING FOR RESTORING HARNESS.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix 1 ounce of indigo, 1 pound of extract of logwood, 1 ounce of
+softened glue, and 8 ounces of crown soap (common softsoap can be used
+if the other kind can not be had) in 2 quarts of vinegar; place the
+mass over a slow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Apply with a
+soft brush, and use a harder one for polishing.</p>
+
+<h3>BLACKING FOR PATENT<br> OR ENAMELED LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together ½ pound each of ivory black, purified lampblack, and
+pulverized indigo, 3 ounces of dissolved gum arabic, 4 ounces of brown
+sugar, and ¼ ounce of glue dissolved in 1 pint of water; heat the whole
+to a boil over a slow fire, then remove and stir until cool, and roll
+into balls.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</span></p>
+
+<h3>BLACKING FOR RESTORING<br> LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Melt 3 parts of white wax, then add 1 part gum copal, dissolved in
+linseed oil, and 1 part of ivory black; allow the mass to boil for five
+minutes, remove it from the fire and stir until cool, then roll it up
+into balls.</p>
+
+<h3>BLACKING FOR THE FLESH SIDE.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together 1 pound of prime lampblack and 12 pounds of pure
+neat’s-foot oil; melt 6 pounds of good tallow, and add it while hot to
+the lampblack and oil. Mix it well, and when cold it will be fit for use.</p>
+
+<h3>ANOTHER.</h3>
+
+<p>To 1½ pounds of lampblack add 1 gallon of pure neat’s-foot oil and 1
+quart of vinegar black; allow it to stand 24 hours, and it will be
+ready for use.</p>
+
+<h3>STAINS.</h3>
+
+<p>The use of russet and brown leather for reins, etc., necessitates the
+employment of stains of various shades in the workshop, in order that
+the reins or other straps may be of a uniform color after being worked.
+In most cases rein leather is stained by the currier, but when worked,
+the freshly cut edges, etc., need to be stained to correspond with the
+grain. The stains used are generally made of Spanish saffron and anotta,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</span>
+or of saffron alone, made up in various ways, the most common and
+reliable being the following:</p>
+
+<p>Boil a given amount of saffron in water until the color is extracted;
+cut a quantity of anotta in urine and mix the two together, the
+proportions of each determining the shade; the more anotta used the
+darker is the color.</p>
+
+<p>Another manner of preparing this stain is to boil ½ ounce of Spanish
+saffron and ¼ ounce of anotta in water until the dye is extracted, to
+which must be added some alcohol to set the color.</p>
+
+<p>To make a stain of saffron alone, boil a quantity in water until the
+dye is extracted; strain off, and, when cold, add alcohol in order
+to set the color. The shade may be changed by adding oxalic acid in
+varying quantities according to the color required. The proportions
+can not be given with any degree of accuracy, as the color is a matter
+of taste, and can be regulated by using greater or less proportions of
+each article.</p>
+
+<p>Another saffron stain is made by boiling saffron in a small quantity of
+water until the color is extracted, and reducing with urine.</p>
+
+<p>In using any of these stains, apply them with a cloth, and, when nearly
+dry, rub with a woolen rag slightly waxed.</p>
+
+<p>A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water; the
+shade may be darkened by the addition of a small quantity of powdered
+Brazilwood boiled with the berries.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</span></p>
+
+<p>Another yellowish red stain is made of Brazilwood and yellow berries
+in proportion to suit, boiling them in water until the coloring matter
+is extracted. This can be applied to sides that have not been stained,
+when intended for flat reins, halters, etc., in the following manner:</p>
+
+<p>Lay the leather upon a table, and rub the flesh side with a warm
+stretching iron; turn it over and moisten the grain side with water,
+and rub with a copper stretching iron until the leather is nearly dry;
+then apply the coloring matter to the grain, and rub with a copper
+slicker. When the leather is perfectly dry, rub the grain with a glass
+slicker. An edge stain is made by adding a small quantity of alum to
+the above mentioned ingredients.</p>
+
+<p>A brown stain is made by boiling equal parts of pine and alder barks
+in six times their bulk of water until all the coloring matter is
+extracted, and when cold adding a small quantity of alcohol. Saffron
+boiled for twelve or fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to which
+alcohol must be added to make it set.</p>
+
+<p>Picric acid and water, in proportions of 1 to 10, heated to a blood
+heat, makes a good yellow stain. Wold boiled in water also makes a
+yellow stain.</p>
+
+<p>An orange yellow is produced by boiling fustic berries in alum water.
+This stain may be converted into a rich brown by washing the leather
+to which it has been applied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an
+alkali.</p>
+
+<p>A red stain is produced by boiling Brazilwood in lye. If mixed with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</span>
+wold, it produces a brownish yellow, well adapted for use on halters
+and bridles.</p>
+
+<p>An edge stain for russet leather is made by cutting 4 ounces of anotta
+in 2 quarts of urine, allowing it to stand for twenty-four hours, then
+adding 3 quarts of water and boiling until reduced to one half the
+original quantity.</p>
+
+<p>All stains appear to better advantage and are rendered more durable by
+being covered with a little shellac varnish, which should be applied
+after the reins are all dry, and then finished up as previously
+directed. The shellac should be applied with a sponge.</p>
+
+<p>A bright orange stain is made by mixing yellow anilin with alum water.</p>
+
+<p>One ounce of oxalic acid, 1 ounce of spirits of salts, 1 scruple of
+bruised cochineal, and 1 pint of boiling water makes a good brown stain.</p>
+
+<p>Another red stain is made by dissolving 1 ounce of cochineal in ½ pint
+of hot water, and adding 1 gill of spirits of hartshorn.</p>
+
+<p>A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts and a decoction of
+cochineal.</p>
+
+<h3>VARNISHES.</h3>
+
+<h4>SHELLAC VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Dissolve 6 parts of shellac in alcohol using no more of the latter than
+is absolutely necessary to dissolve the gum, and mix it with 3 parts of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</span>
+Venetian turpentine, heating the whole until the mixture is complete;
+when cool, add ½ part of fine bone black and ½ part of oil of lavender
+(all the parts by weight). Mix the mass in a druggist’s mortar, and
+rub smooth; then add turpentine enough to reduce it to the proper
+consistency.</p>
+
+<h4>ELASTIC VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Dissolve ½ pound of gum caoutchouc in ether, and when thoroughly cut,
+add ½ pound each of linseed oil and spirits of turpentine; boil over a
+slow fire until the mixture becomes clear, strain it, and when cold it
+is ready for use. To harden it and make it dry quicker, use one half
+the quantity of gum caoutchouc, and substitute the best gum copal for
+the remainder.</p>
+
+<h4>GERMAN LEATHER VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Pulverize a quantity of the best copal gum, and add enough turpentine
+to moisten it; place it in a glazed vessel, and allow it to stand over
+a moderate fire until the gum is thoroughly dissolved, which will
+require about ten hours. Next take double the quantity of linseed oil
+that there is of the gum and turpentine combined, and heat it; when
+nearly to a boil, pour in the dissolved gum, and allow it to remain
+over the fire until it has reached as high a degree of temperature
+as it will bear with safety, stirring it all the while; then remove
+from the fire, and when it has cooled a little, thin with spirits of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</span>
+turpentine until the proper consistency is reached, strain through
+a fine cloth, bottle it, and set it in the sun to ripen. This is an
+excellent varnish for horse collars. If used upon those that have lost
+their color, a little bone black should be added.</p>
+
+<h4>LACK VARNISH BALLS.</h4>
+
+<p>Melt together 2 ounces of white wax and 6 ounces of beef tallow; add
+½ pint of turpentine, 8 ounces of ivory black, 2 ounces of Prussian
+blue ground in linseed oil, and allow the mass to boil for about five
+minutes; then remove it from the fire and add 4 ounces of shellac
+varnish, stir the mass until cool, and roll into balls.</p>
+
+<h4>BLACK VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Pulverize and mix together 1½ parts of mastic, 2½ parts of shellac, 2½
+parts of dragon’s blood, and 2 parts of the best bone black; heat 1½
+parts of turpentine and 10 parts of alcohol, pour them over the gums,
+place the whole over a moderate fire, and boil until the latter are
+thoroughly dissolved.</p>
+
+<h4>WATERPROOF VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Pulverize 1 pound of shellac, and put it into a bottle with a
+sufficient quantity of alcohol to cover the gum; cork the bottle
+tightly, and keep it in a warm place until the gum is dissolved. To
+a quart of the liquid add 1 ounce of ivory black and ½ ounce of gum
+camphor dissolved in alcohol. Apply with a varnish brush. If too thick
+to work well, thin with alcohol.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</span></p>
+
+<h4>BLACK VARNISH FOR JAPANNED WORK.</h4>
+
+<p>Dissolve 2 pounds of asphaltum in 1 pint of boiled linseed oil; heat
+in an iron pot until thoroughly fused, then remove from the fire, and,
+when cooled off a little, add 2 quarts of spirits of turpentine, and
+stir until cold. Apply with a brush. This makes an excellent japan for
+retouching japanned mountings, seats, etc., that have been injured by
+the japan scaling off.</p>
+
+<h4>CHEAP SHELLAC VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Dissolve asphaltum in turpentine, using no more of the latter than is
+absolutely necessary; add a small quantity of bone black and enough
+shellac varnish to reduce it so that it can be applied with a brush.
+Spread it very thinly.</p>
+
+<h4>ELASTIC VARNISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Equal parts of gum caoutchouc and copal, the former dissolved in ether,
+heated in a vessel until thoroughly dissolved, with enough linseed
+oil added while hot to reduce it to the proper consistency, makes an
+elastic varnish well suited for finishing collars.</p>
+
+<h3>POLISHES.</h3>
+
+<h4>FRENCH POLISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Beat 5 pounds of stearin out into thin sheets with a wooden mallet, and
+mix with 7 pounds of oil of turpentine, after which subject the mass to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</span>
+a water bath, and heat up; when hot, add ½ ounce of ivory or bone
+black, stirring well to prevent crystallization. To cool it off, it
+should be emptied into another vessel and stirred until cold. To use,
+warm it until it is reduced to a liquid state, and apply in small
+quantities with a cloth; afterward rub it well with a piece of silk or
+linen cloth to bring up the polish.</p>
+
+<h4>POLISH FOR PATENT LEATHER.</h4>
+
+<p>Mix together the whites of two eggs, 1 teaspoonful of spirits of wine,
+1 ounce of sugar, and as much finely pulverized ivory black as may be
+required to produce the necessary shade of black. Apply with a sponge,
+and polish with a piece of silk.</p>
+
+<h4>WAX POLISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Melt together 1 pound of white wax, 1 pound of crown soap, 5 ounces of
+ivory black, 1 ounce of indigo, and ½ pint of nut oil; dissolve over a
+slow fire, stir until cool, and turn into small moulds.</p>
+
+<h4>LIQUID POLISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Melt 2 pounds of wax, and add ¼ pound of washed and well dried litharge
+by screening it through a fine sieve; then add 6 ounces of ivory black,
+and stir until cool, but not cold; add enough turpentine to reduce it
+to a thin paste, after which add a little birch or other essential oil
+to prevent it from souring.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</span></p>
+
+<h4>GERMAN LEATHER POLISH.</h4>
+
+<p>Soften 1 part of white glue in water, add 3 parts of crown soap, and
+heat the whole over a slow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved;
+moisten 3 parts of bone black with vinegar, and mix it with 1 part of
+wheat starch beat smooth in cold water; mix the whole, and allow it to
+stand over a slow fire for half an hour, stirring it all the time, then
+turn it into another kettle and stir until it is cold. To use, dissolve
+a small quantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply with a brush,
+spreading it as thinly as possible.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak">CHAPTER XXVI.<br>
+<span class="h_subtitle">MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR THE<br> WORKSHOP AND HARNESS ROOM.</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN MOULDY LEATHERS.</h3>
+
+<p class="drop-cap"><span class="smcap">Remove</span> the surface mould
+with a dry cloth, and with another cloth apply pyroligneous acid.
+Leather that has been badly moulded can be restored in this way.</p>
+
+<h3>TO PROTECT HARNESS FROM RATS.</h3>
+
+<p>Apply a plentiful coat of castor oil. If the harness is to be used,
+add tallow in the proportions of about one third of the latter to two
+thirds oil.</p>
+
+<h3>WATERPROOF OIL.</h3>
+
+<p>Take of lard oil 100 parts, paraffin 50 parts, beeswax 5 parts; heat
+the oil over a slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and wax; allow
+the whole to remain over the fire until the latter articles are melted,
+and add a few drops of oil of sassafras or other essential oil to
+preserve it.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</span></p>
+
+<h3>CROWN SOAP.</h3>
+
+<p>This soap, so much used by stablemen for cleaning harness, is made of
+whale or cod oil, lye of potassa, and a small quantity of tallow. The
+oil gives to the soap a dark brown color, the tallow forming white
+granulations. This is simply the Scotch softsoap; it can be produced at
+a price far below that asked for the imported article.</p>
+
+<h3>BELGIUM BURNISHING POWDER.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together ½ pound of fine chalk, 3 ounces of pipe clay, 2 ounces of
+dry white lead, ¾ of an ounce of carbonate of magnesia, and ¾ of an
+ounce of rouge.</p>
+
+<h3>POWDER FOR CLEANING SILVER.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together 1 ounce of fine chalk, 2 ounces of cream of tartar, 1
+ounce of rotten stone, 1 ounce of red lead, and ½ ounce of alum, and
+pulverize thoroughly in a mortar. Wet the mixture and rub it on the
+silver, and, when dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean with a
+small brush.</p>
+
+<h3>POWDER FOR CLEANING BRASS MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Make a paste of equal parts of sulphur and chalk, with sufficient
+vinegar to reduce it to the proper consistency. Apply it to the metal
+while moist, allow it to dry on, and rub with chamois skin. For
+ornaments or engraved work, clean with a brush.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</span></p>
+
+<p>Another process, and one that gives to the brass a very brilliant
+color, is to make a wash of alum boiled in strong lye, in the
+proportion of 1 ounce of alum to 1 pint of the latter. Wash the brass
+with this mixture, and afterward rub with shammy and tripoli.</p>
+
+<p>A weak solution of ammonia in water makes an excellent wash for
+cleaning tarnished silver plate. Apply it with a rag, dry with a piece
+of shammy, and afterward rub with a piece of shammy and a very small
+quantity of jewelers’ rouge.</p>
+
+<h3>PREPARED CHALK.</h3>
+
+<p>Pulverize chalk thoroughly, and mix with distilled water in the
+proportion of 2 pounds to the gallon; stir well, and then allow it to
+stand about two minutes, during which time the gritty matter will have
+settled to the bottom; then pour the chalky water into another vessel,
+being careful not to disturb the sediment, and allow the fine chalk to
+settle to the bottom; pour off the water, and place the chalk in a warm
+oven to dry. This is an excellent powder for restoring silver, and it
+is also useful as a base for other polishing powders.</p>
+
+<p>Spanish whiting treated in the same manner, with a small quantity of
+jewelers’ rouge added, makes a powder that is a little sharper than the
+prepared chalk, and which is well adapted to cleaning polished steel articles.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</span></p>
+
+<p>A third powder, and one that is still sharper than either of the above,
+is made of rotten stone treated in the same manner as the chalk. The
+addition of bone black to any of these powders will prevent their
+discoloring the leather.</p>
+
+<h3>TO PREVENT STEEL BITS FROM RUSTING.</h3>
+
+<p>Polished steel bits, chains, etc., whether in packages or in showcases,
+may be preserved from rust by dusting them over with quicklime.
+Those in use should be placed in a box nearly filled with thoroughly
+pulverized slaked lime immediately after being removed from the horse.
+The lime absorbs the moisture, and thus prevents rust. Before using,
+rub well with a woolen cloth. Polished steel, when covered with red
+rust, may be cleaned as follows: Cover the article with oil, and rub it
+with a woolen cloth to remove the lighter portion of the rust, after
+which apply another coat of oil, and allow it to remain undisturbed for
+two or three hours, then clean off with whiting and a woolen cloth. If
+the rust has been upon the steel sufficiently long to have eaten into
+the metal, the surface can be restored only by the use of the emery
+belt or wheel.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN RUBBER COVERED MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Rub the covered as well as the metallic parts with a shammy and a
+little tripoli, and finish with a clean woolen cloth.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[Pg 321]</span></p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN RUSSET LEATHER COVERED MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Remove all stains and dirt by rubbing the leather with a cloth and a
+little oxalic acid, and restore the color and finish by the use of
+salts of lemon, applied with a woolen cloth. Rub the leather until a
+good polish is produced.</p>
+
+<h3>VARNISH FOR COLLARS.</h3>
+
+<p>Digest shellac 12 parts, white turpentine 5 parts, gum sandarac 2
+parts, lampblack 1 part, spirits of turpentine and alcohol each 40 parts.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN CELLULOID COVERED MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Rub the covered parts with a woolen cloth and a little tripoli, and
+polish with a clean woolen rag.</p>
+
+<h3>POLISHING LIQUID FOR OROIDE OR BRASS.</h3>
+
+<p>Place 2 ounces of sulphuric acid in an earthen vessel, and add 1 quart
+of cold soft water; after the heat that is generated has passed off,
+add 1 ounce each of tripoli and jewelers’ rouge. When well mixed, put
+in a bottle for use.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN GILT MOUNTINGS.</h3>
+
+<p>Gilt mountings unless carefully cleaned soon lose their lustre. They
+should not be rubbed; if slightly tarnished, wipe them off with a piece
+of canton flannel, or, what is better, remove them from the harness and
+wash in a solution of ½ ounce of borax in 1 pound of water, and dry
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</span>
+them with a soft linen rag. Their lustre may be improved by heating
+them a little and rubbing with a piece of canton flannel or a soft
+polishing brush.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN RIDING SADDLES.</h3>
+
+<p>If much soiled, wash the leather with a weak solution of oxalic acid
+and water, and, when dry, with the watery portion of beef blood. The
+latter can be preserved by adding a little carbolic acid, and keeping
+it in a bottle tightly corked.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN STEEL BITS.</h3>
+
+<p>Steel bits that are tarnished, but not rusty, can be cleaned with
+rotten stone, common hard soap, and a woolen cloth.</p>
+
+<h3>TO FINISH THE EDGES OF RUSSET REINS.</h3>
+
+<p>Use salts of tartar and water. If discolored, first remove the stain
+with a weak solution of oxalic acid.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CLEAN BROWN RIDING SADDLES.</h3>
+
+<p>Saddles may be cleaned to look as well as new by the use of tepid water
+and crown soap; if the latter can not be had, use pure castile soap.</p>
+
+<h3>TO STAIN REIN LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>A rich permanent brown can be imparted to rein leather by treating the
+hides, after they are tanned, to a bath in a liquor made from equal
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[Pg 323]</span>
+parts of pine and alder bark. The hides are spread in a vat, with
+liquor enough to cover them, where they are allowed to remain one
+week; they are then removed, and fresh liquor is applied; by repeating
+this treatment three or four times, a very rich brown can be produced.
+Orange brown is produced by scraping the flesh side after the hides
+have been removed from the vats for the last time, and sprinkling
+them on the scraped side with pulverized alum. As soon as each one
+is sprinkled with the alum, it is laid in another vat, one upon the
+other, and allowed to remain twenty-four hours; they are then moistened
+with the alum liquor in the bottom of the vat, and laid upon the beam
+and well worked, after which they are rubbed with salt and alum, and
+rolled up and allowed to remain undisturbed for twenty-four hours; this
+salting is repeated three times, after which the hides are stretched
+lengthwise and dried; they are then boarded and worked soft, and
+treated to a coat of hog’s lard and train oil on the flesh side; in
+about two days they are again boarded, and worked off with a glass
+slicker. This leather has a fine grain, and retains its softness for a
+long time.</p>
+
+<h3>SMEARY GREASE FOR RUSSET LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>Mix together 1 part of palm oil and 3 parts of common soap, and heat
+up to 100°; then add 4 parts of oleic acid and 1¾ parts of tanning
+solution containing at least ¹/₁₆ part tannic acid (all parts by weight),
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</span>
+and stir until cold. This is recommended as a valuable grease
+for russet leather, and as a preventive of gumming.</p>
+
+<h3>TO SEPARATE SIDES OF PATENT LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>Patent and enameled leather will, if the glazed sides are placed
+together in warm weather, become stuck together, and, unless carefully
+separated, the leather will be spoiled. The simplest and best way to
+separate sides is to place them in a drying or other hot room; when
+hot, they can be taken apart without injury to the glazed or enameled
+surface. If a drying room is not accessible, lay the sides on a tin
+roof on a hot day, and they will soon become heated sufficiently to
+allow their being separated without injury. Any attempt to separate
+without heating to a high degree will prove a failure.</p>
+
+<h3>TO CURRY RUSSET LEATHER.</h3>
+
+<p>The hide to be curried is placed upon a table, and a warm iron is
+rubbed over the flesh side; it is then turned over, and the grain side
+is moistened with water and rubbed with a copper slicker until it is
+nearly dry, after which coloring matter, made of Brazilwood and yellow
+berries, is applied to the grain, and it is once more rubbed with the
+slicker; it is then spread out to dry, and the final finish is given by
+rubbing the grain with a glass slicker. This produces a very fine grade
+of leather for riding bridles, russet reins, etc.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</span></p>
+
+<h3>TO COLOR EDGES OF SADDLE FLAPS.</h3>
+
+<p>Use a strong solution of soda, apply it to the freshly cut edges, and,
+when nearly dry, rub with a woolen rag until a good polish is produced.</p>
+
+<h3>HARNESS OIL.</h3>
+
+<p>An excellent oil for team and farm harness is made of beef tallow and
+neat’s-foot oil, as follows: Melt 3 pounds of pure tallow, but do not
+heat it up to a boil; then pour in gradually 1 pound of neat’s-foot
+oil, and stir until the mass is cold; if properly stirred, the two
+articles will become thoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will be
+smooth and soft; if not well stirred, the tallow will granulate and
+show fine white specks when cold. The addition of a little bone black
+will improve this oil for general use.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak">INDEX.</h2>
+</div>
+<hr class="r10">
+
+<ul class="index">
+<li class="isub8 fs_120"><b>B</b></li>
+<li class="isub20 fs_80">PAGE</li>
+<li class="isub2">Belgium Burnishing Powder, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Bitting Harness, <a href="#Page_288">288</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Bits, <a href="#Page_281">281</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Buckles, <a href="#Page_271">271</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Buying Leather, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>C</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Care of Harness, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Celluloid Mountings, to Clean, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Cleaning Brass, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Coach and Wagon Bridles, <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Coloring Edges, <a href="#Page_325">325</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Crown Soap, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Currying Russet Leather, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Cutting Harness, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Cuttings for Harness, 64-<a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Adjustable Tree, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Bitting, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Breast Collar, Single, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Cart, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Double Road, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">English Four-in-hand, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Express, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Express, Heavy, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Hame Collar, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Heavy Coupé, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Long Tug Coach, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Long Tug Farm, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Long Tug Team, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Mule, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Pennsylvania Wagon, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Road, Single, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Short Tug Coach, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Short Tug Butt Chain, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Stage, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Tandem, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Track, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Wagon, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>G</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Gilt Mountings, to Clean, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Grease for Russet Leather, <a href="#Page_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>H</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Halters, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Harness Leather, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Harness Loops, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Harness Mountings, <a href="#Page_249">249</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Harness Oil, <a href="#Page_325">325</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Horse Boots, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>L</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Leather, Blacking and Stains, <a href="#Page_302">302</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Black, Anilin, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Ball, <a href="#Page_303">303</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Crown Soap, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Finishing, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Flesh, <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">German, <a href="#Page_306">306</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Hatters’, <a href="#Page_303">303</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Leather Mountings, <a href="#Page_308">308</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Liebig’s, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Liquid, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Logwood, <a href="#Page_302">302</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Patent, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Patent Leather, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Restoring, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Vinegar, <a href="#Page_302">302</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Waterproof, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Stains, Brown, <a href="#Page_310">310</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Crimson, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Orange Yellow, <a href="#Page_307">307</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Red, <a href="#Page_310">310</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Yellow, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Yellow-Red, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Varnishes, Black, <a href="#Page_313">313</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Black Ball, <a href="#Page_313">313</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Collar, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Elastic, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">German Leather, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Shellac, <a href="#Page_311">311</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Waterproof, <a href="#Page_313">313</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Polishes, French, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">German, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Liquid, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Patent Leather, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Wax, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>M</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Making, Breast Collar Harness, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Gig Saddles, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Ornamented Truck Harness, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Pads, Coach, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Soft, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Plain Hard, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li>
+<li class="isub4">Plain, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Team Harness, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li>
+<li class="isub3">Truck Harness, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Measuring for Harness, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Miscellaneous Recipes, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Mouldy Leather, to Clean, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>P</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Patent Leather, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Patent Leather, to Separate, <a href="#Page_324">324</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Prepared Chalk, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Preparing Leather for the Fitter, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Prevent Steel from Rusting, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Polishing Liquid, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Polishing Powders, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Powder for Cleaning Silver, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>R</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Rein Leather, <a href="#Page_322">322</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Repairing Harness, <a href="#Page_240">240</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Riding Bridles, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Riding Saddles, to Clean, <a href="#Page_322">322</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Round Reins, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Rubber Covered Mountings, to Clean, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Russet Leather, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+<li class="isub2">Russet Leather Mountings, to Clean, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>S</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Stitching Harness, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li class="isub8 ifrst fs_120"><b>T</b></li>
+<li class="isub2">Trimmings, <a href="#Page_105">105-111</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<div class="transnote bbox spa2">
+<p class="f120 spa1">Transcriber’s Notes:</p>
+<hr class="r10">
+<p>The cover image was created by the transcriber, and is in the public domain.</p>
+<p>The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up
+      paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate.</p>
+<p>Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected.</p>
+</div></div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78603 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78603
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78603)